# Crabgrass Resistance?



## ajmikola (Feb 18, 2017)

So I've been fighting crabgrass for sometime now. I have Celcius, surfactant and DFW wand setup. I have sprayed the crabgrass multiple times now with no damage to the crabgrass and yellowing of the turf. I have a scale and have weighed out 3.2g/gallon for spot spraying. I really don't want to use round up but I don't know what else to do? Anyone have any suggestions?


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## Iriasj2009 (Feb 15, 2017)

Are you 100% sure it's crabgrass? Celsius has worked great for me but I think prodiamine will ultimately be your best defense. What kind of preem are you using? I haven't had any issues with crabgrass this year after starting my preem application, even with all the aerating and verticutting I did this year.


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## J_nick (Jan 28, 2017)

Can we get a picture of the crabgrass?


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## ajmikola (Feb 18, 2017)




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## ajmikola (Feb 18, 2017)




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## ajmikola (Feb 18, 2017)

I used a granular early this padt spring. I just picked up prodiamine wdg though, which i will put down next month.


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## ajmikola (Feb 18, 2017)

I used a granular early this past spring. I just picked up prodiamine wdg though, which i will put down next month.


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## booneatl (May 19, 2017)

I would hand pull these and call it a day. I realize this could be time consuming if your entire yard is covered in it but you lawn looks great to me. Immediate results !!


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## J_nick (Jan 28, 2017)

Yep that's not crabgrass. Say hello to goosegrass.


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## Iriasj2009 (Feb 15, 2017)

ajmikola said:


> I used a granular early this padt spring. I just picked up prodiamine wdg though, which i will put down next month.


Granular stuff like halts works but from my experience only works for 6-8 weeks max and then the barrier is gone. I applied prodiamine at half the yearly rate and it's been 5 months since my last application, and no crabgrass. For now pull it out using a crow bar or a screwdriver, get underneath the plant and pull it. Less damage and recovers much quicker. Yes more time consuming but it works.


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## Iriasj2009 (Feb 15, 2017)

J_nick said:


> Yep that's not crabgrass. Say hello to goosegrass.


I thought it looked familiar! Yep jnick is correct which explains why celcius wasn't working.


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## ajmikola (Feb 18, 2017)

J_nick said:


> Yep that's not crabgrass. Say hello to goosegrass.


Does anything kill it other than pulling it up?


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## J_nick (Jan 28, 2017)

Iriasj2009 said:


> J_nick said:
> 
> 
> > Yep that's not crabgrass. Say hello to goosegrass.
> ...


I've become very familiar with it this year. I'm winning the war though :twisted:


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## Tellycoleman (May 10, 2017)

J_nick said:


> Iriasj2009 said:
> 
> 
> > J_nick said:
> ...


yes he has been very succesful with it 
I to am battling it and I used j-nick ratio and i am on day 5 since my blanket app. I had minor yellowing and it is already recovering.
You live in Alabama you should be able to order some some MSMA i dont believe its restricted in Alabama.
I believe J_nick ratio was 0.9 oz per 1000square feet 
I added quicksilver to mine because it has some anti yellowing properties.
Look at his renovation thread
Looking at your lawn you have a very mild infestation. So spot spray will be better for you


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

Go to Ace Hardware and get "Grandad's Weed Puller." I may be off on the name a bit, but it makes pulling deep crabgrass really easy! I get some on a hill in the back and it yanks em right out.


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

Glyphosate + paintbrush = problem solved.


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## high leverage (Jun 11, 2017)

Two products have worked for me in the past on goose. Dismiss(sulfentrazone) 6oz. for about $60 on Amazon and MSMA 2.5 gal for $67 at local feed store.


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## southernguy311 (Mar 17, 2017)

Kustrud said:


> Go to Ace Hardware and get "Grandad's Weed Puller." I may be off on the name a bit, but it makes pulling deep crabgrass really easy! I get some on a hill in the back and it yanks em right out.


IMO don't waste your time with this. Goosegrass will always win against you pulling in the long run for the first year you notice it. 
Go chemical vs mechanical

"The" important thing you will read in this thread: This is very very important. Goosegrass is a prime indicator of very compacted ground. You need to aerate at least twice in the next year. I would recommend once now and again after spring grew up at minimum.

I still see a rare one after a large infestation a couple years ago. I pull mine now but I might see one plant every 2-3 weeks.


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## ajmikola (Feb 18, 2017)

southernguy311 said:


> Kustrud said:
> 
> 
> > Go to Ace Hardware and get "Grandad's Weed Puller." I may be off on the name a bit, but it makes pulling deep crabgrass really easy! I get some on a hill in the back and it yanks em right out.
> ...


I have extremely compacted soil. I aerated last month.
If all else fails i will paint it with glyco.


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## FATC1TY (Jul 12, 2017)

Would one really advise with aeration now?

I have goosegrass awful in spots out front, and just planned to half app ronstar g next month. And more in feb/March and put it down after aeration and top dressing in spring. Probably another aeration and scalp in july and mail it in if all is well.

Dismiss and msma is a good tank mix for spot treating? Sounds like thst plus my Celsius should cover any junk!


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## southernguy311 (Mar 17, 2017)

FATC1TY said:


> Would one really advise with aeration now?
> 
> I have goosegrass awful in spots out front, and just planned to half app ronstar g next month. And more in feb/March and put it down after aeration and top dressing in spring. Probably another aeration and scalp in july and mail it in if all is well.
> 
> Dismiss and msma is a good tank mix for spot treating? Sounds like thst plus my Celsius should cover any junk!


I stand behind my suggestion and would recommend aerating right away in Atl


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## jayhawk (Apr 18, 2017)

Just read a turfnet article i got in my email, dated aug3 17- hope it's useful or interesting

Aaron Hathaway, a research assistant at Michigan State under professor Kevin Frank, Ph.D.:

post emergence discussion
*Quinclorac* and *fenoxaprop-ethyl* are effect for post-emergent crabgrass control, and there are properties unique to each.

Quinclorac is effective in controlling crabgrass is small - in the one-to-three tiller stage - or when it is what Hathaway called gorilla-sized - four or more tillers. Likewise, it is effective when used alone at controlling some broadleaf weeds, including clover and dandelions, and it can be tank-mixed with methylchlorophenoxypropionic acid (MCPP) and 2,4-D to enhance control of other broadleaf weeds. The addition of methylated seed oil also can improve efficacy. Quinclorac also is safe for use in new cool-season turf seedlings

Fenoxaprop-ethyl also is effective at post-emergent control of crabgrass at any growth stage - new or gorilla-sized. It is more effective than quinclorac at controlling goosegrass. When used alone it does not provide control of broadleaf weeds and thus should not be tank-mixed with phenoxy herbicides. The addition of a non-ionic surfactant, however, can improve efficacy. Other post-emergent crabgrass control options, Hathaway says, include mesotrione, topramezone.Gorilla sized - lol.

Edit: Fenoxaprop-ethyl (acclaim) doesn't appear to be for Bermuda.


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