# Grass Response to Going Low



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

So I started going low 3 weeks ago. I wanted to cut at 7/8 so I just went for it.

My problem is the grass isn't really responding well to going low. I've been cutting at 7/8 everyday to every other day. Before every cut, the grass looks like it's starting to do well and right when I cut it, it looks like crap again.

The dark green corner in the third picture is where I had vole damage this winter and it responded awesome by itself to that.











Should I just cut the grass down to 1/2 inch or so just to restart it since I never went lower than my actual HOC or should I continue cutting at 7/8 and just hope it starts to accept that height?

A little over a week ago I noticed I had a really bad dead grass problem and I dethatched. So that probably stressed out the grass on top of it.

Also I've dropped 1lb of N over the last 3 weeks. Along with humic12 and RGS. The bad spots still aren't responding that well.

I had vole damage at the beginning of the year and those spots are super green and healthy looking. Never thought I'd wish the whole entire yard was ate by voles this winter. They grass in those spots look even better in person.


----------



## bernstem (Jan 16, 2018)

Did you dethatch/scarify? Looks like a lot of old dead blades there.


----------



## john5246 (Jul 21, 2019)

that grass does not look healthy at all, for KBG it should be filled in and thick

looks like there are some other issues here that need to be addressed before worrying about cutting height. If I were you I'd mow high until the grass fills in


----------



## jha4aamu (Oct 16, 2017)

its looks like you are cutting down in to the crowns of the plant. that and some dead material/thatch thats built up its going to give that browning appearance. and probably detatch a little more and maybe some weekly apps of AS would help the kbg spread and recover


----------



## davegravy (Jul 25, 2019)

Did it look like that immediately after you dropped your HOC? Or was this die off /browning from afterwards.


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

bernstem said:


> Did you dethatch/scarify? Looks like a lot of old dead blades there.


Yes I did. The dead blades you most likely are seeing is clippings from mowing with a manual reel while my GM was in the shop. I am now collecting the clippings. If I put my blower on most of those spots, I'll see soil and crowns with a tiny bit of dead material in there.

Once I let it grow out a bit it greens up a ton, it's but everytime I cut it, it goes back to this. I feel like I'm repeatedly cutting back to the crown after it starts growing.


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

davegravy said:


> Did it look like that immediately after you dropped your HOC? Or was this die off /browning from afterwards.


This is directly after going low. It was at 3/4 inches last year, so the entire yard was brown after cutting it.



This is after dethatching:





This is last year is August:





I feel like it I was to let it starting growing taller, it would thicken back up with no problem. Idk what to do at this point.


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

john5246 said:


> that grass does not look healthy at all, for KBG it should be filled in and thick
> 
> looks like there are some other issues here that need to be addressed before worrying about cutting height. If I were you I'd mow high until the grass fills in


Everyone that goes low says to not stop and that it's going to look bad for awhile. That's where I thought I was. Some of the spots are the worst of the worst that I've shown above. I feel like 90% of the lawn is crowns trying to grow I feel like. I have no doubt if I let it grow out it will look good really fast.

Now I'm at the point of do I continue to cut low and hope the grows adapts? Or let it grow out?


----------



## davegravy (Jul 25, 2019)

Question is do you cut it even lower so that there's room for growth above the crown? I think I've read too do that, and it makes sense, but I've never cut low myself. I can appreciate it would be hard to bring yourself to drop the HOC further when you're getting results like that...

Following. One day I want to reel mow.


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

davegravy said:


> Question is do you cut it even lower so that there's room for growth above the crown? I think I've read too do that, and it makes sense, but I've never cut low myself. I can appreciate it would be hard to bring yourself to drop the HOC further when you're getting results like that...
> 
> Following. One day I want to reel mow.


That's exactly where I'm at. I'm almost to the point of going down to 3/8 or a half inch to give it more room to grow off the crown like you said, and if that doesn't work, throw in the towel for going low for the season.

@g-man I need your help on this one.


----------



## synergy0852 (Jun 30, 2018)

@jrubb42 I did this last year, you can check out my journal to see how long it took mine to adapt. I don't remember off the top of my head, but I bet it was close to a month. Just keep doing what you're doing and it'll look better eventually.


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

What was the hoc last year?

I think you need to let it go up and heal. By cutting the green leaves, you are cutting the part the plants needs to get energy. You are also in MN, with a very cold spring.

How high can you go with the GM1000?

Can you get in your knees and take a close up picture of the bad area and the vole area?


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

g-man said:


> What was the hoc last year?
> 
> I think you need to let it go up and heal. By cutting the green leaves, you are cutting the part the plants needs to get energy. You are also in MN, with a very cold spring.
> 
> ...


3.5/4 inches all of last year. I'm thinking the crowns were really long from it being cut like that for so long and I didn't do it any favors by not cutting it lower than what my actually HOC was going to be.

I can only go up to 1 inch with the GM1000.

The weather will be warming up next week.

Should I avoid going down to .5 inch and then let it grow out and to start cutting at 1 inch?

Yes I can take pictures tomorrow. What would your plan be going forward then if not cutting it lower.


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

That's a big drop in hoc. I know Connor did something like that but late summer early fall. I've also mowed the edge with the neighbors and it takes a while to recover.

I think you should let it go up to 1.5in or 2in. Let it heal. Feed it and get it thick. Once it is growing like crazy, then start bringing it down.


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

g-man said:


> That's a big drop in hoc. I know Connor did something like that but late summer early fall. I've also mowed the edge with the neighbors and it takes a while to recover.
> 
> I think you should let it go up to 1.5in or 2in. Let it heal. Feed it and get it thick. Once it is growing like crazy, then start bringing it down.


That's a bummer.


----------



## LYKUNO (Jul 11, 2018)

To be honest, I think the lawn looked great in the picture from August. In my NE Ohio *** lawn, I typically have the HOC at 3.5" for the best look and thick/healthy feel underfoot. I also ensure the twin blades on my Honda HRX mower are always clean and sharp, which prevents shredding the tips of the lawn blades for a clean and even cut.

When I was growing up, my Dad planted a creeping bent lawn, which resembled a golf course green. It was cut very low (less than an inch if I recall correctly) and had to be mowed (by me or my brother) every other day. It was a beautiful lawn but high maintenance.

Many of my neighbors cut their lawns on a weekly or biweekly basis, with their walk-behind mowers set as low as they'll go. Their lawns are full of weeds and scalped in areas -- not a good look.

Bottom line is that it's your lawn and your choice on how low to cut it. I just think *** looks better at taller HOCs, at least it does for my lawn ...


----------



## CrackedCornCrack (Jan 25, 2020)

@jrubb42 I agree with @g-man .

I've brought 4 inch + HOC down to .5 but it took a while. I essentially took .25 inches off every 2-3 days from 4 down to 1.75.

Then I cut at 1.75 for 2 weeks.

Then I cut at 1.5 for 2 weeks.

Then for some reason I went down to 1.

Then .75

Then .5

It essentially took me from February of this year till late April-early May.

I did an experiment and tried to take an area from 3 to .75 and it looked gross and never accepted the height.

Anyways , I would give your current turf low dose N (.25lb/m) every week and water pretty good over the next month to get it looking SKRONG at 2 inches. Then just take .25 off every couple days till you get where you want. I'd say by July 4th you'll have an amazing looks reel low lawn.


----------



## Babameca (Jul 29, 2019)

@LYKUNO It looks thick simply because it is tall. That's a simple visual illusion. OC looks are personal preference 100% agree but real thickness can only be achieved at low HOC. @jrubb42 Get back to rotary. IMO don't let go back to 2-3''. If you can have a clear cut at 1.5 without scalping, let it heal there. Your temps hasn't been beneficial so far I am sure. Then drop it as slowly as your equipment allows you. Any signs of stress, hold it there until it gets use to it. I did a full Reno on my front yard but kept my back with the Nomix and dropped it from 3 to 2 to 1.5 and then to 7/8 in 3 weeks. It was fall and grass couldn't care less... looks sparse compared to my front but this is to be expected as I mentioned here above. This was taken 2 weeks ago. It is a shadowy part of my yard.
And now what I thought was a dear pee gets an answer. I have same flush growth in my front and I had voles as well...



It is all almost gone by now


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

Thanks for all of the help everyone. Yesterday was a pretty depressing day after how much time and effort I put in to trying to get the lawn low to this point. I've had a lot of hiccups along the way and this is just another to add to the list.

By the end of today we will have gotten over 2 inches of rain and the yard already looks better today. I think I'm going to try keeping it at 1.5 and seeing how it reacts. If I need to move higher I will.

The only rotary mower I have is a John Deere Rider that scalps all over the place so I'm going to have to use a manual reel to get it to 1.5. I'm going to have a ton of washboarding once it thickens up, but it is what it is at this point.

I appreciate you guys sharing your journey with me on how you went from high, to very low. Kicking myself for basically not scalping the yard on the first cut and moving up. I really think it would've reacted differently if I would've done that, but it's a learning process I guess.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome (Sep 28, 2017)

Too low too fast? Whe you say you went for it did you go from 3 in to 7/8 in one cut?

As previously recommended, i would step it there, and I'd do it before growth surges. Seems like too much too soon at the wrong time to me.

Hindsight is 20 20 though, I'd nurse it along.

The plants are fewer but bigger at taller HOC. They are smaller and tighter lower. It takes time for it to fill in.


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

g-man said:


> That's a big drop in hoc. I know Connor did something like that but late summer early fall. I've also mowed the edge with the neighbors and it takes a while to recover.
> 
> I think you should let it go up to 1.5in or 2in. Let it heal. Feed it and get it thick. Once it is growing like crazy, then start bringing it down.


Just one last question about this method. If the bad areas in my lawn have a crown at 7/8 of an inch and I'm repeatedly cutting the green off there not allowing it grow, by letting it grow to 1.5/2 inches and letting it recover, isn't the crown still going to be at 7/8 of inch when I'm eventually going low again? Putting me in the same spot I'm in now?


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

No. The crown will adjust and have more green to it (chlorophyll).


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

Sounds good. Thanks again. It's already way greener after one day of mowing. It's gonna bounce back fine I'm sure.


----------



## greencare (Sep 14, 2019)

Because you are cutting often, I think it needs more fertilizer.


----------



## Babameca (Jul 29, 2019)

greencare said:


> Because you are cutting often, I think it needs more fertilizer.


The amount of clippings removed and/or recycled would define the replenishment of nutrients, not the frequency...


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

@g-man here are the photos you wanted. This is after 2 days of not mowing in the bad spots, so there is a lot more green on them at this point. It was raining for 2 days straight otherwise I would've got you the photos sooner.

Vole areas:





Areas struggling:


----------



## davegravy (Jul 25, 2019)

I've read that pgr promotes tillering. Would that help here? Or not good to apply to such a stressed lawn?


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

@jrubb42 Those voles helped you to expose the crowns. That's why that grass looks great.

The other one has the brown stuff from the crown. It gets brown when the hoc is high and it doesnt see the sun. Let it recover. Treat it like a renovation with 0.2lb of N/ksqft weekly. It will be fine.

If you zoom in, you will see new growth showing up from the soil. That's the one that will replace the older brown stuff. Let the current lawn grow for a few weeks to provide energy for those younger blades to take over.

@davegravy no PGR in a stressed lawn.


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

Sounds good. I'll cut at 1.5 for a few weeks and reassess. It's crazy how much better it looks after 2 days of not mowing. Really kicking myself for not scalping on the first cut. I would be close to being done with the healing process by now.


----------



## Chris1 (Apr 22, 2020)

i have a JD220 set at max HOC with 2.5" roller. i think issue is going from 2.5" to 7/8" . Are you getting a lot of rain the past week in MN? Once the weather warms up , let it go push with N then bring it back down slowly starting with rotary push. 
im 3-4 weeks in been cold . finally getting use to HOC but it will take time to train with reel . i have been trying to cut 3x per week . I cut Sat and Sun . There has been almost 3.75" of rain last 2 days. Tomorrow night i will probably use rotary then cut with JD


----------



## thytuff1 (Feb 13, 2018)

Simply put @jrubb42 has severely scalped his lawn and continues to do so every time he mows at 0.75 in. It is clear by the photos he posted originally that mowing at 0.75 overwhelmingly damages the crowns of the plants and is setting his lawn back every time this is done. That is why the lawn turns brown after each mowing event and will recover every time he delays his next mow. Bluegrass typically prefers to be mowed in the range from 2-4". Of course, we all know of plenty of people on this forum who go much lower (sub 1") and are successful with it. But I would be willing to wager that they have completed a major reno or overseeding program with some of the newer elite cultivars of bluegrass that have been genetically modified to do so. How old is the turf stand that @jrubb42 is attempting to mow this low? What are the specific cultivars? Some blue grass varieties (usually older than last decade) simply will not tolerate extreme close mowing and hence respond exactly in this manner. As with most things in turf plant genetics is the predominant factor in having success in managing our lawns to our desires and standards. And I would be very cautious to continue to implement this aggressive mowing practice under these conditions.

There has also been some discussion within this thread about "thickness" of the lawn. Again, this very important characteristic of grass morphology is directly related to genetics. When we talk about "thickness" we should not get confused with "texture". "Thickness" is the measure of a grass plant's shoot density; or how many new tillers of shoots can the plant provide per sq. in. Poa annua, or favorite friend, is known as one of the most if not the most proliferate shoot producer. It grows well across the HOC sward as it is can be cut as low as 0.100 (poa annua var. reptans) in golf greens and also invades our lawns cut at much higher HOC. Studies have shown it to be more than twice as "thick" as the best new creeping bentgrass cultivars. But it looks different to the naked eye at different HOC. The texture of a grass stand on the other hand is more subjective to its growing environment, such as HOC, nutrition inputs, climate conditions (sun light intensity) etc. Generally, speaking the lower the HOC the finer or thinner the leaf blade becomes, and it looks "thicker" to the naked eye. PGRs too, play a role in leaf blade texture and some of them will make the leaf blade swell under lower mowing heights. The Pure Distinction creeping bentgrass that was sodded onto our greens in the fall of 2017 look a world different today as they have been managed under an intense agronomic plan. The green surface looks markedly tighter and more compact today as compared to then and we have only changed the mowing height down from 0.150 to 0.125 in. The point being, that over time any grass stand will find its own level of texture based on how its managed, but the grass plant's "thickness" won't.

I would also wager that the reason that the area of the lawn associated with the vole damage looks better is that the voles performed a "pseudo" aerification event in that area. Meaning that the tunneling the voles did relieved compaction in the root zone allowing more oxygen and nutrients to the root surfaces. This in turn allows the grass an improved ability to deal with stress and hence a better looking turf stand.

I would also like to dissuade the myth of scalping down a turf stand all at once to somehow condition the grass plant to acclimate to a lower HOC faster. " It will heal in faster".... I have not ever heard of such a misconception in my experience managing turf. Many of the guys on this post are correct. When you are attempting to condition a particular lawn to a considerably lower HOC, you begin at a reasonable height and bring down the HOC gradually over a period of time. Here is where the 1/3 rule plays an important role. And it is advisable to complete several mowings at different directions at each subsequent HOC. I had an equipment manager tell me once," You,re not really at XXX HOC until you mow it three times in different directions" In lawn applications I believe a good lowering increment would be a 0.25" at a time. This would give you plenty of time to observe how the turf stand responds to each successive change in HOC. If an adverse reaction is observed than a pertinent decision to wait until the grass recovers can be done. Another important factor is to try to do this in a relatively stress free time of season as to not compile turf stressors.

Additionally, giving the turf a little more Nitrogen is advisable to offset the extra stress that is being given to the grass. But at modest levels. I would recommend only a meager amount, (somewhere between a 0.05 and 0.10 lbs N/K weekly)and if you could find a slow release carrier that be even better. I have seen recommendations on this forum of up to 0.25 lbs N/K per week. That is too rich in my opinion, especially if the nitrogen is a fast release type such as Urea or Ammonium Sulfate. This is a "grow in" renovation program rate and will push growth and recovery well enough, but it also leads to a very succulent plant with crowns prone mechanical injury a.k.a scalping.


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

thytuff1 said:


> Simply put @jrubb42 has severely scalped his lawn and continues to do so every time he mows at 0.75 in. It is clear by the photos he posted originally that mowing at 0.75 overwhelmingly damages the crowns of the plants and is setting his lawn back every time this is done. That is why the lawn turns brown after each mowing event and will recover every time he delays his next mow. Bluegrass typically prefers to be mowed in the range from 2-4". Of course, we all know of plenty of people on this forum who go much lower (sub 1") and are successful with it. But I would be willing to wager that they have completed a major reno or overseeding program with some of the newer elite cultivars of bluegrass that have been genetically modified to do so. How old is the turf stand that @jrubb42 is attempting to mow this low? What are the specific cultivars? Some blue grass varieties (usually older than last decade) simply will not tolerate extreme close mowing and hence respond exactly in this manner. As with most things in turf plant genetics is the predominant factor in having success in managing our lawns to our desires and standards. And I would be very cautious to continue to implement this aggressive mowing practice under these conditions.
> 
> There has also been some discussion within this thread about "thickness" of the lawn. Again, this very important characteristic of grass morphology is directly related to genetics. When we talk about "thickness" we should not get confused with "texture". "Thickness" is the measure of a grass plant's shoot density; or how many new tillers of shoots can the plant provide per sq. in. Poa annua, or favorite friend, is known as one of the most if not the most proliferate shoot producer. It grows well across the HOC sward as it is can be cut as low as 0.100 (poa annua var. reptans) in golf greens and also invades our lawns cut at much higher HOC. Studies have shown it to be more than twice as "thick" as the best new creeping bentgrass cultivars. But it looks different to the naked eye at different HOC. The texture of a grass stand on the other hand is more subjective to its growing environment, such as HOC, nutrition inputs, climate conditions (sun light intensity) etc. Generally, speaking the lower the HOC the finer or thinner the leaf blade becomes, and it looks "thicker" to the naked eye. PGRs too, play a role in leaf blade texture and some of them will make the leaf blade swell under lower mowing heights. The Pure Distinction creeping bentgrass that was sodded onto our greens in the fall of 2017 look a world different today as they have been managed under an intense agronomic plan. The green surface looks markedly tighter and more compact today as compared to then and we have only changed the mowing height down from 0.150 to 0.125 in. The point being, that over time any grass stand will find its own level of texture based on how its managed, but the grass plant's "thickness" won't.
> 
> ...


While reading this for the first time, I felt like a student getting scolded in front of the class :lol: It all makes what you're saying. Especially what you said about hurting the lawn every time I cut at 7/8, which was a lot! I appreciate the long response and all of the knowledge you dropped.

I moved into this house two years ago. I'm guessing the grass was sod laid back in 2004 when the house was built. At this point, I'm not afraid of killing the grass. If I have to renovate in the fall or next year, so be it. Looking back, I obviously know I did some things incorrect, but I've learned a lot along the way.

The grass has bounced back incredibly in the last 4 days without mowing. I tried mowing at 1.5 today and I barely touched anything, but most of the lawn looks thick and healthy. And green! There are a few spots that are still hurting, but I can see green growing in them so I'm pretty sure everything will be fine. Just have to give it some time. I still plan on going down to 1 inch and if the grass rejects me, so be it. I'm not going down without a fight

Thank you for your insight!


----------



## greencare (Sep 14, 2019)

I find that with sods, you have to keep it at their original height, which is usually 3in.


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

@greencare this 5yr old sod. It was installed from the same rolls as the neighbor behind it on the same day. Hoc 22mm for the last 2 yrs. Never overseeded.


----------



## Stuofsci02 (Sep 9, 2018)

Here is my sod that is 6 years old. Cut at 3 inch for the first 4 years, then 2.25" until the end of last year. Now cutting at 5/8ths.


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

@g-man and @Stuofsci02, both lawns look great from your sod! I'm pretty damn optimistic that I'm going to make this work, just judging by how fast the grass has recovered from my last cut. Just gotta get over these first few hiccups.


----------



## greencare (Sep 14, 2019)

Well, I stand corrected!


----------



## Stuofsci02 (Sep 9, 2018)

jrubb42 said:


> @g-man and @Stuofsci02, both lawns look great from your sod! I'm pretty damn optimistic that I'm going to make this work, just judging by how fast the grass has recovered from my last cut. Just gotta get over these first few hiccups.


Just an FYI... Last fall starting around Labor Day I started taking the grass in the photo down with a manual reel. I got it to 1.5" consistently and one day when I felt extra strong I got it to an inch... just once... I ended the year at 1.5". This spring I went right to 5/8 with my GM and for the most part it didn't complain too much.

On another section of my yard with the same sod I left it at 2" to end the year using my rotary. This year I got extra excited and took it straight to 5/8 and kept doing that for two weeks. It looks a lot like yours, but I have let it go back to 1.5" and will wait a week or so and take it down again.. it will get there, just takes patience and knowing when to push it down and when to let it recover a bit. Tomorrow I will take a picture of that area for you.


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

Stuofsci02 said:


> jrubb42 said:
> 
> 
> > @g-man and @Stuofsci02, both lawns look great from your sod! I'm pretty damn optimistic that I'm going to make this work, just judging by how fast the grass has recovered from my last cut. Just gotta get over these first few hiccups.
> ...


I've looked at your journal more than a few times and you have a giant yard. Props to you taking a manual reel to that front lawn (and pushing the GM through that now). It looks insanely good on top of it. I'd appreciate you sending me some photos of the area you're talking about.

I'm pretty positive my grass will tolerate being cut low, I just have to let it do it on its own terms. I feel like I'm around a month away from getting there, but we will see how it reacts. Like you said, patience is key at this point.


----------



## Stuofsci02 (Sep 9, 2018)

jrubb42 said:


> Stuofsci02 said:
> 
> 
> > jrubb42 said:
> ...


You are right... it will eventually get there, but if you are not able to do it before the heat of the summer you may need to give it a break for a couple of months and try again in the fall. Here is my section that I was taking about. I dethatched and cut at 5/8 last Sunday. I cut it tonight at 1.5".


----------



## SanFranDan (Apr 15, 2019)

I scalped my lawn @ .5" and it looked exactly the same afterwards. After spoon feeding for a month it still looked like it was struggling to green up again (There was progress albeit slow, I was getting worried...like you I was not affraid to kill it and start over in fall). Fastward, its now been 2 months and not only is it green, but it's starting to fill in (both from spreading/tillering and from lateral growth). Just keep at it and don't get discouraged!


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

Stuofsci02 said:


> jrubb42 said:
> 
> 
> > Stuofsci02 said:
> ...


Thanks for the photos. The brown/crowns look the same but you definitely have thicker growth. Ha! I am worried about summer coming sooner than later and screwing up my plans, but if I have to wait for fall so be it. My wife is getting sick of me looking out the window every couple hours. Lol.


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

SanFranDan said:


> I scalped my lawn @ .5" and it looked exactly the same afterwards. After spoon feeding for a month it still looked like it was struggling to green up again (There was progress albeit slow, I was getting worried...like you I was not affraid to kill it and start over in fall). Fastward, its now been 2 months and not only is it green, but it's starting to fill in (both from spreading/tillering and from lateral growth). Just keep at it and don't get discouraged!


Did you continue cutting at 0.5 or did you raise your HOC?


----------



## Stuofsci02 (Sep 9, 2018)

@jrubb42 
Yeah, mine only looks thicker because I am further along... Looked a lot like yours a week ago...


----------



## thytuff1 (Feb 13, 2018)

@jrubb42 Sorry sir... After reading my post it did sound condescending, which I had not intention for it to do so, and I apologize. I am all for anyone to go after their goals for their home lawns and landscapes no matter what they are.


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

thytuff1 said:


> @jrubb42 Sorry sir... After reading my post it did sound condescending, which I had not intention for it to do so, and I apologize. I am all for anyone to go after their goals for their home lawns and landscapes no matter what they are.


I took no offense to it and appreciated the long reply. I love constructive criticism! I thought it was kind of funny how I felt reading it.

Just wanted to give an update to anyone who was curious. This is 13 days later. I went up to 1.5 inches for 12 days and now cut at 1.25 today. The grass looks AMAZING. The photos don't do it any justice compared to seeing it in person.


----------



## CanadianGrassMan (Apr 25, 2020)

Wow huge progress and it looks amazing. I would be really happy with that.


----------



## Stuofsci02 (Sep 9, 2018)

Excellent.... it is just a matter of time..


----------



## bernstem (Jan 16, 2018)

That looks great! Nice recovery.


----------



## Babameca (Jul 29, 2019)

@jrubb42 Oh....yeah


----------



## jrubb42 (Jun 20, 2019)

@CanadianGrassMan @Stuofsci02 @bernstem @Babameca Thanks fellas! It's only been a couple of months, but I've been working my *** off to get to this point. Pumped to actually use my GM soon... Just don't want to jump the gun! Appreciate the support!


----------

