# Oak Tree, can't tell if this is fungus or pest



## penright (Apr 6, 2020)

From what I read so far, I think it may be a fungus. If so, it seems like copper fungicide is suggested. 
I have not found anywhere someone has said you can use copper fungicide on Oak Trees.
I guess my first question is, is this a fungus, and second can I use copper fungicide on it?

Note on the pictures, the bare dirt spot is from a plug that was left when the trees were brought in. The truck was a 100" and I used it to try and fill in the tracks. It is not a symptom of the issue. The trees were delivered in NOV 2020. The summer of 2021 was their first summer here and there were no issues.


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

I think it's insect damage. I would probably spray the tree with Cyzmic.

For fungicide, I would try Daconil before I would consider copper. Copper fungicide isn't sustainable; google the use of copper in organic grape farming to find out why.


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## penright (Apr 6, 2020)

ionicatoms said:


> I think it's insect damage. I would probably spray the tree with Cyzmic.


I found some Amazon and eBay, but I did not see any application instructions?
Do you just treat the ground and/or tree?
Would I use my Chameleon Hose-End sprayer or 2-gallon pump sprayer?



ionicatoms said:


> For fungicide, I would try Daconil before I would consider copper. Copper fungicide isn't sustainable; google the use of copper in organic grape farming to find out why.


When I was trying to find pictures online of my issue, I did see where it said not to use it (Copper) more than twice a year because of build-up. Most of the articles on fungus control mention Copper and when I saw "organic" I thought it would be safest for the tree. I know "organic" is still chemicals.


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

penright said:


> I found some Amazon and eBay, but I did not see any application instructions?
> Do you just treat the ground and/or tree?
> Would I use my Chameleon Hose-End sprayer or 2-gallon pump sprayer?


Tree looks small enough that you can treat the whole thing and the area around it. Cyzmic is a contact insecticide so you want to just get it anywhere a pest might be creeping. I would use the pump sprayer.


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## Saint Louisan (Jul 31, 2019)

I believe you have oak leaf gall caused by oak gall mites or oak leaf gall mites. Different than the galls that grow on the branches, that's caused by a parasitic wasp.

I had 2 large pin oaks in the back that had both, just a bit of leaf gall though. Last one was removed today!! Woot.

Word around here is that oak mites have extremely painful bites that last for a long time, worst than chiggers they say. My kids would occasionally get eaten up by them when playing in the leaves.

Glad those damned trees are gone, zoysia backyard is on the menu now.


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## 440mag (Jan 29, 2018)

Preface: UP TO YOU TO READ LABELS AND ENSURE SUITABILITY FOR YOUR SPECIES SPECIMEN

Couple o' thoughts:

1) whether insect or fungus I always think / go SYSTEMIC first (meaning the plant "takes up" the active ingredient "into" its circulatory system and works FROM WITHIN THE PLANT OUT).

Not only are most systemic s more effective they are also more environmentally friendly.

2) "The Silver Bullet" when it comes to systemic fungicides is PHYTON 27 - truly a "secret weapon" …. It ain't cheap but it has no second when it comes to performance. You only need 1 teaspoon to a gallon of water so, even the 2oz bottle size will last you years. DuckDuckGo'ing it I am only finding 1-gal and 2oz bottle sizes but years ago I was able to find it in 8oz bottle size (we use it proactively as a preventative on Japanese Maple ornamental specimen displays among other trees and shrubs) so, I wouldn't give up easily looking for 8oz - an 8oz bottle will last you yours and the trees' lifetimes.

You can mix a teaspoon per gallon and you want to DO BOTH - pour it around the base of the tree AND put your diluted solution into a hose end sprayer and really hose the tree down, tops and bottoms of leaves, twigs, branches, trunk, you name it. Past the point of the mix dripping off every part of the plant …. I do both once or twice a year (for Jap Maples the critical time is before, during or after cool Spring +/or Fall rains) and the plants response as far as vigor and vitality is something to see!

You can "go a cheaper route" with Phyton 35 but, when deciding I considered how long a bottle of Phyton27 was gonna last us and decided "buy once cry once" is in order with plants that form the foundation of our entire landscaping … food for thought ….

I can tell you after more than 5 years of using it once or twice a year Phyton27 is "the shizzit!"

*UP TO YOU TO READ LABELS AND ENSURE SUITABILITY FOR YOUR SPECIES SPECIMEN*

3) a silver bullet when it comes to systemic insecticides is imidacloprid - which you mix with a couple gallons of water (use Oz rate per label instructions) and pour around the base of the tree / shrub.

Quite honestly, imho, every tree or shrub "that really matters" on any landscape should be root drenched with imidacloprid at least once a year no matter what. The only exception being the critical need to not expose pollinators to the insecticide (I.e. read the label!)

4) finally, a true silver bullet when it comes to systemic insecticides is Acephate or generic for "Orthene". Talk about an insecticide that a plant absorbs and spells instant death for any insect that tries to munch on the plant!!!! ("Munching" on a plant not to be confused with what pollinators do which doesn't involve trying to bite into the plant)

So, were it me or were those oaks mine?

First I'd read the labels and then I would:

1) obtain and use Phyton 27 to first root drench and then literally spray-drench the trees (to the point of dripping). And I'd do it either as far ahead of daybreak sunup or dawn as possible (you want the systemic on the plant as wet as possible for as long as possible) or after sundown. Either way, not during heat of day..

2) obtain and use imidacloprid to root drench the trees according to label rates (based on your photos I'd go with 10-12oz mixed into 4 - to 6-gals of water using a 5 gal bucket, per tree, slowly poured around the base of the tree. I.e., just inside that black plastic ring you have around the mulched area under each tree. Again, before or after heat of day)

3) obtain and use Acephate according to label rates by mixing the correct amount of Oz of product into a 2-gal sprayer and then spraying each tree with its own 2-gal mix (obviously you will have to pick a NO WIND opportunity AND wear proper ppe)

The Acephate is going to be instant death on any insects on the tree when you spray AS WELL AS being absorbed by the plant and staying active within the plants circulatory system long after you sprayed the plant.

Best o' success to you - barring any man-made event, you hit those suckers with Phyton 27 once or twice a year and the insecticides once a year (I do the imidacloprid root drenching in March and Acephate in May/June, based on insect life / breeding cycles in my locale) those trees will be there a hundred years from now!

*Phyton27*: https://www.amazon.com/Phyton-Oz-Systemic-Bactericide-Fungicide/dp/B00VKPL8FU

*Imdicloprid Systemic Tree and Shrub Insect Drench*: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Compare-N-Save-2-5-Gal-Systemic-Tree-and-Shrub-Insect-Drench-75334/205213426#overlay

*Acephate 97UP (alternative to Orthene)*: https://www.domyown.com/acephate-97up-insecticide-p-2751.html
Acephate 97UP is water soluble and provides systemic control of insects through root uptake. Insects eat the foliage of the plants and die. Acephate 97UP also acts on contact, but is more effective when insects ingest the insecticide.


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## 440mag (Jan 29, 2018)

Saint Louisan said:


> …Word around here is that oak mites have extremely painful bites that last for a long time, worst than chiggers they say. …


  :shock: Ewwwwwwwwww!


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## Saint Louisan (Jul 31, 2019)

440mag said:


> Saint Louisan said:
> 
> 
> > …Word around here is that oak mites have extremely painful bites that last for a long time, worst than chiggers they say. …
> ...


My kids got them bad twice. Once in mid-late summer and again the following spring when we were cleaning out the landscaping around the pool. I've never seen such large pronounced bumps, lasted for weeks too! My daughter got bit on both sides of her hairline on her forehead...it looked like she was growing devil horns.. poor baby


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## Saint Louisan (Jul 31, 2019)

http://www.idph.state.il.us/envhealth/pcitchmites.htm

I guess all leaf gall aren't biters, just one type. Little info on those terrible creatures though


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