# Have you overseeded without aeration and had success?



## Muddysneakers77 (Nov 3, 2018)

As the title states. If so, how successful was it for you and what steps all did you take (if it was more than just broadcast spreading and watering).

Was wondering how it would be to mow low, broadcast seed, starter fertilizer, roller seed, topdress with peat moss, water.


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## ksturfguy (Sep 25, 2018)

My best guess is you'd be just fine. The key is getting seed to soil contact. With you rolling, topdressing and peat moss you will get that.


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## krusej23 (May 8, 2018)

Instead of aerating, I ran my greenworks dethatcher over the area at the lowest setting and then put the seed down. It worked really well.


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## Muddysneakers77 (Nov 3, 2018)

krusej23 said:


> Instead of aerating, I ran my greenworks dethatcher over the area at the lowest setting and then put the seed down. It worked really well.


would you use that electric dethacher over 10k lawn with septic drainage slopes? Or would that burn the engine or force you to have to keep turning it off due to overheating?


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## Chris LI (Oct 26, 2018)

^+1
When I started using peat moss, it made a big difference over seeding mulch. It also is a good indicator when you need to water and highlights dry spots. Also, a peat moss roller goes a long way for even distribution. I used the roller from my Toro line striper tied to my drop spreader to roll the seed.. It's not as heavy as a true roller, but I think it helped.

I assume you will be bagging when you mow low to remove material for better seed to soil contact.

I also did not water for a few weeks before overseeding towards the end of summer. I think it helped reduce competition from existing turf, during establishment of the new seed.


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## Muddysneakers77 (Nov 3, 2018)

Chris LI said:


> ^+1
> When I started using peat moss, it made a big difference over seeding mulch. It also is a good indicator when you need to water and highlights dry spots. Also, a peat moss roller goes a long way for even distribution. I used the roller from my Toro line striper tied to my drop spreader to roll the seed.. It's not as heavy as a true roller, but I think it helped.
> 
> I assume you will be bagging when you mow low to remove material for better seed to soil contact.
> ...


I really like peat moss....it comes in a nice (but expensive) cubes from Lowes....spread so easily and its visual queues that it needs watering are so easy to spot. Yea, I will be bagging...slowly bringing the HOC down to 1.5 - 2" (I keep it at 3" all summer to help with water issues).


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## j4c11 (Apr 30, 2017)

I never core aerate when seeding because it brings up a lot of weed seed. Couple that with watering many times a day and you could have a mess on your hand. Tenacity is an option of course, but the list of weeds it works on as a pre-emergent is relatively short.

My overseed steps are:

- Cut existing grass as low as your mower will go - all in one shot, you want the existing grass shocked and stunted for a while. If some of it dies as a result it's ok, you're seeding. Better than having half foot grass shading your seedlings in a week.
- Run dethatcher at least twice, or until soil is clear for the seed to get to. Remove thatch. Seed to soil contact is of the utmost importance.
- Fungicide at seed down to prevent issues with the seedlings, and also to protect the existing grass while it gets watered many times a day and essentially kept wet for weeks.
- I use a broadcast spreader to spread the seed at recommended rates.
- If you have larger sparse areas you can use the thatch from step 2 to cover the seed. The layer should not be too thick.
- Water enough to keep the seed moist, 3-4 times a day depending on your temperatures.

If you really want excellent results, a couple of rounds of PGR applied to the existing turf just before seeding will also help reduce competition with the seedlings.


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## Muddysneakers77 (Nov 3, 2018)

j4c11 said:


> I never core aerate when seeding because it brings up a lot of weed seed. Couple that with watering many times a day and you could have a mess on your hand. Tenacity is an option of course, but the list of weeds it works on as a pre-emergent is relatively short.
> 
> My overseed steps are:
> 
> ...


shocking the grass with a HOC that low is, smart...never considered that. Thank you. Fungicide as well....hmm...ScottsDX at preventative rate? No starter fertilizer or topdress eh?


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## j4c11 (Apr 30, 2017)

Muddysneakers77 said:


> shocking the grass with a HOC that low is, smart...never considered that. Thank you. Fungicide as well....hmm...ScottsDX at preventative rate? No starter fertilizer or topdress eh?


Scotts DiseaseEx(azoxystrobin) is great, so is propiconazole if you have it on hand. I use starter when renovating, no starter on overseed - it would push the existing grass to grow and I don't want that. Once the new grass is somewhat established and growing, fertilize away - new grass is nitrogen hungry. A second dose of fungicide is also due at about week 3.

No topdress for me, except for thatch and/or grass clippings from the scalp in areas where I need to prevent runoff/washouts. Obviously if you have a nasty weed issue (ahembermuda) you don't want to use the thatch or clippings because you're going to spread it around.


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## DTTG13 (Apr 14, 2018)

Sounds like what I started doing this year is similar to what others have mentioned:

1. Mow the lawn low
2. Use my Sun Joe Dethatcher with the scarifying blades on. 
3. Spread seed.
4. Top with peat moss
5. Water, water and more water for the next several weeks
6. Fertilize with starter fertilizer or a more balanced fertilizer than I would normally use after first cut.

I think mowing the grass short/scalping stresses the original grass and gives the new grass time to catch hold. Also using the scarifying blades in the dethatcher makes nice grooves in the soil for the grass seed to fall into. As others have mentioned the peat moss helps with the seed to soil contact, covers the seed slightly and provides a good indicator when more watering is required. Finally, I hold off on the fertilizer until the new grass has been cut at least once, again to keep the old grass from overtaking the new seedlings.


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## Rp9110 (Feb 18, 2019)

krusej23 said:


> Instead of aerating, I ran my greenworks dethatcher over the area at the lowest setting and then put the seed down. It worked really well.


I also did this and had solid results. My salad bar of a lawn made a major transformation with a heavy overseed with GCI TTTF.


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## Chris LI (Oct 26, 2018)

DTTG13 said:


> Finally, I hold off on the fertilizer until the new grass has been cut at least once, again to keep the old grass from overtaking the new seedlings.


^+1
Exactly. I do this too. If I had pgr, I would add that to my arsenal, as well. I've avoided using my electric dethatcher due to weed concerns. My mower has more than enough suction, to pick up any thatch.


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## Avalawn T (Sep 11, 2018)

What if you put a preE down in split apps in the spring? No worries with germinating and not breaking up the soil? I will be over seeding in the fall and all of this is a big help. I would rather not aerate either.


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