# Blorge and the Reel Low project mower



## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

Well I have had the Reel Low fever and have been actively looking for a GreensMaster 1000 that I can give some love to and get it in tip top shape for net years mowing season. I bought it at a golf and turf place here in Colorado for $200 it appears to be a 1999 based on Serial number. It is a pretty complete unit with a groomer. The things I notice first off is that the bed knife is preventing the reel from spinning. Probably will get a new bedknife and 8 blade reel from R&R anyway. Some screws are missing on the handle parts up top, but I can replace those also. Going to be doing a bit of an overhaul on it.

I am going to add some photos shortly, because we all love photos right!

Oh and it needs a good cleaning as it was sitting in a storage for for a while.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)




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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

I just realized that I should have posted this in the Equipment forum. Can one of the Moderators move this over there please


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

Nice find. I think you got it for a good price even if it does need some work. I like low cut cool season grass too and hope to get a reel mower next year. Keep updating as you make progress. :thumbup:


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

SNOWBOB11 said:


> Nice find. I think you got it for a good price even if it does need some work. I like low cut cool season grass too and hope to get a reel mower next year. Keep updating as you make progress. :thumbup:


Thanks! Yea I cleaned it up last night and adjusted the bedknife so I could spin the reel. Going to do a tune up on the engine and get it running well, then fix a couple parts. I need to get the mounting bracket and screws for the red handle on the left of the mower. I think that might be the brake perhaps?


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

Well I have changed the oil and drained the old gas out and filled with new. Spark plug looks good. I tried to start it and nothing. I shot a little starter spray behind the air filter and it starts then immedialty dies. I am thinking the carb might be gummed up. Doesn't seem to be getting fuel.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

Thanks @Ware for moving this over here for me.


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## Guest (Jun 24, 2018)

disassemble and clean the carb main needle most likely gummed up pretty good. Congrats on your new toy you'll love it I sure do love mine. The Toro GM1000 and 1600 are right in that sweet spot not hard to get parts for and work on with a little patience and know how. Plenty of great forum members here can help out with any questions.


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## ABC123 (Jul 14, 2017)

That looks to be in great shape but a little dirty. Good find! :thumbup:


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

Nixnix42 said:


> disassemble and clean the carb main needle most likely gummed up pretty good. Congrats on your new toy you'll love it I sure do love mine. The Toro GM1000 and 1600 are right in that sweet spot not hard to get parts for and work on with a little patience and know how. Plenty of great forum members here can help out with any questions.


After I sprayed it off, and cleaned it up and used the blower to dry it off, it looks way better. I have a few parts coming, a carb cleaning is in store for sure. Everything else seems to be in good order. Are there any safety switches for it to start? Does the park brake need to be engaged for it to start?


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## Guest (Jun 24, 2018)

It will start with the parking brake on or off at least mine does just the one on/off switch for starting unless you have the optional operators' presence system installed which looks like you don't.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

I pulled the carb off, and removed the bolt from the bottom of the bowl. The bowl wont come off. Is there a trick to getting it loose? From Toros diagram, there doesn't seem to be anything other than that bolt.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

Never mind. Lol it was just stuck pretty good.

Think it was dirty? Look at all the gunk in the bowl.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

Before I pulled the main jet and nozzle, it was very clogged with crap. pretty sure nothing was getting through there. I am going to order a new bowl gasket and carb gaskets and give it a go again. Hope it starts after that.!


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

Better go ahead and pull the pilot/idle jet and clean that out too. I don't know what's in your Tupperware container (gas or cleaner?) but be careful with carb cleaner and plastic parts. The good stuff (dips) will destroy any plastic parts it contacts. Aerosol cleaners are usually fine.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

Yea the small one has gas in it. Using the spray to loosen dirt. I pulled the Pilot Jet also. it wasn't nearly as bad.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

While I wait for my replacement parts fro Jacks small engines. I have a few things to replace on the handle. The GM1000 Brake handle is missing the bracket that holds it to the handle. Does anyone know where I can find parts like this that are not reel or engine specific?

I have checked R&R already.

Update - Looking on Jerry Pates website and they have it. Any others that are closer to Colorado would be cool too.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

I finally received all of my replacement carb parts and put it all back together this morning and its alive! 2 or 3 pulls to get some gas moving and it fired right up and ran well.

Problems I am seeing now.
1. the ON/OFF switch won't turn the mower off
2. at full throttle the engine is surging with the choke all the way to the left, kind of making a revving action. Not sure if that was because I had the air filter off at the time.
3. I engaged the drive lever and only the left side of the drum was spinning. Is that normal? Maybe a loose belt or something.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

Here is a new picture of the GM1000 more cleaned up than before. Looks much better now.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

I just tested the switch with a multimeter and there is no change in current from 1 to 0 when moving the switch from on to off. So looks like the switch is faulty.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

blorge said:


> I just tested the switch with a multimeter and there is no change in current from 1 to 0 when moving the switch from on to off. So looks like the switch is faulty.


Ignition switches on small engines usually do not see any significant current. The ignition module usually has a small tab on it. That wire or tab is grounded to the engine block or the machine chassis to shut down the motor.

To test the switch, disconnect all leads, set your meter to measure Ohms and take a reading with the switch in both positions. One position should read open, the other should have good continuity, less than 1 Ohm.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

Disconnected the wire coming out of the switch and still reads 1 in both positions. It will start in the off position also.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

There is a terminal bolted to the engine casting in your photo. Has it always been disconnected?

Also, you can verify the switch operation by following the wire from the switch to the first bullet connector. Disconnect it there, and then check for continuity to ground with the switch off. It should indicate a good connection to the engine block until you turn the switch back on.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

Yea I have no idea what that wire is that connects to nothing. It was that way when I bought it. Kind of weird. The parts manual shows it there too. Not sure what it's for. I'll check again with the switch disconnected at the point and take a photo of the readings.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

Here it is in both ON and OFF. I have the red lead into the wire coming out of the switch and grounding it on the bolt to the engine. I think that is testing it correctly.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

Close! Your negative is correct on the engine block, disconnect where I circled in the photo and connect the positive probe to the switch wire. You should then be able to see the switch operate on the meter.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

Okay cool. I'll have to cut that wire and re crimp with a quick connect. That one is permenant right now .


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## ABC123 (Jul 14, 2017)

Id think you could always run a wire to the spark plug and to a grounded switch. I know making things work correct is ideal, but this could be a work around for now till you have more downtime.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

ABC123 said:


> Id think you could always run a wire to the spark plug and to a grounded switch. I know making things work correct is ideal, but this could be a work around for now till you have more downtime.


That's a good idea, but I am not using the mower yet so it's not a big issue yet. Trying to get this mower in good shape before converting over to using it. Trying to work through the kinks before I make the switch.


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

I tested the switch again with the lead from the switch and grounding it to the engine block bolt from the picture. Still no change in the multi meter reading. There is a metal ground onthe back of the switch that appears to make contact with the engine, not sure if that is what actual grounds the switch to the engine. I am going to purchase a new switch. 20 bucks on Jacks Small Engines.

I wish there was a better real diagram of how a 1999 should look. If anyone has one could they post it here?

Thanks!


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

Picked up a new ON/OFF switch and boom works like a champ!


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

Nice &#128077;


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## blorge (Mar 22, 2018)

Got the new bed knife on and adjusted it to cut paper nicely. Haven't sharpened the reel yet but it was cutting paper. Took it out for a spin in the yard and holy crap. Hang on that thing flies. So different from the rotary. Going to take some time to figure out and get a good verticutting in next month to remove that thatch layer. My wife thinks I am nuts.


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