# First House - Progress so Far



## Jmunk (Mar 23, 2021)

First house, obligatory "I knew nothing about any of this prior to about 4 months ago". Moved into this house with the lawn looking pretty rough. I put tenacity down in the last week or so of August. Manually aerated the entire space, added topsoil on bare spots, and then overseeded with Jonathan Green Black Beauty Ultra and starter fert about two weeks ago. While it is FAR from perfect and some lawns I see here, it at least looks a bit more like a lawn now lol, and something to work with!

Little confused at this point where to head now. There is still a few bare/slower growing seed spots, but most of the new grass is right around 3 inches or so. I've been watering 3 times a day for 15 minutes, so I was thinking about taking the sprinklers offline here and go back to normal watering (~2 times a week depending on weather). I also don't know whether now is the right time to cut, as it seems like a lot of people online say that right around my height is when I should give it a mow.

Any suggestions on what my next steps should be? I want to do everything I can to set myself up for success come next spring/summer.


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## M32075 (May 9, 2019)

You can add seed to the bald spots it's still early in the game since seed down about 2 weeks ago. You can cut back your watering to probably once a day seems like you have decent shade and shorter day light. Start cutting the lawn in a few days get the leaves off and to tiller and thicken. It's very late in the season for a over seed but so far it's looking good.


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## Jmunk (Mar 23, 2021)

M32075 said:


> You can add seed to the bald spots it's still early in the game since seed down about 2 weeks ago. You can cut back your watering to probably once a day seems like you have decent shade and shorter day light. Start cutting the lawn in a few days get the leaves off and to tiller and thicken. It's very late in the season for a over seed but so far it's looking good.


Awesome. Yeah they aren't so much bare spots, as spots that I did seed that are just slow to fill out. I guess I could throw some more seed on them, I just didn't know if I should just wait to see if they'll fill out on their own. Do you think it's time to go once a day, but increase time? Maybe like 45 minutes?

And yes, this area is heavily shaded. There's about 5 trees. That's on the list this spring is to cut most of these trees down, which I'm guessing is contributing to the reason why the lawn looked like this in the first place when I got here.


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## M32075 (May 9, 2019)

Jmunk said:


> M32075 said:
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> > You can add seed to the bald spots it's still early in the game since seed down about 2 weeks ago. You can cut back your watering to probably once a day seems like you have decent shade and shorter day light. Start cutting the lawn in a few days get the leaves off and to tiller and thicken. It's very late in the season for a over seed but so far it's looking good.
> ...


If you have germination in those areas but it's a little thin then just let it ride it's still very early in the game. Just water once a day for just a few minutes it might still have some seed around to germinate. The days are shorter not as hot and shade you should have enough water with a ten minute watering. You can cut it in a few days just go slow no turns on the grass.


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## Jmunk (Mar 23, 2021)

M32075 said:


> Jmunk said:
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Right on, I'll let it ride and see what I get. I'll probably do the first cut next week or so then. This may be a dumb question, but by no turns on the grass, we're talking about anytime I'm switching directions to do it _off_ the grass, right? We just don't want the turning of the wheels to dig up any of the new seeds?


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## M32075 (May 9, 2019)

Your new seedlings have no roots so if you change direction on the grass a good chance they get pulled out. Change direction off the grass if possible also let the grass dry before you cut and bag it. In about another week or two try to cut twice a week if not once. Frequent cuts and light feedings will get it to thicken, tiller and fill in.


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## Jmunk (Mar 23, 2021)

M32075 said:


> Your new seedlings have no roots so if you change direction on the grass a good chance they get pulled out. Change direction off the grass if possible also let the grass dry before you cut and bag it. In about another week or two try to cut twice a week if not once. Frequent cuts and light feedings will get it to thicken, tiller and fill in.


Gotcha. That was my other question, should you be bagging or mulching right now at this point when you cut the new seedlings?


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## jimmythegreek (Aug 7, 2020)

Bag always on new grass. You want as much room as possible for seed still popping and tillering....unless you reel mow and have a bagger for it


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## Jmunk (Mar 23, 2021)

jimmythegreek said:


> Bag always on new grass. You want as much room as possible for seed still popping and tillering....unless you reel mow and have a bagger for it


Gotcha. I'll bag for the first cut in a few days then. Would you mind explaining exactly what tillering is?

Also, anymore products down before winter?


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## M32075 (May 9, 2019)

Tillers are new grass shoots. Since you put down starter fertilizer at seed down you have some nitrogen still laying around you can in a few weeks drop some more fertilizer if you want.


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## Jmunk (Mar 23, 2021)

M32075 said:


> Tillers are new grass shoots. Since you put down starter fertilizer at seed down you have some nitrogen still laying around you can in a few weeks drop some more fertilizer if you want.


Ok, any special kind of fertilizer or just the ones I would normally use in the summer? Also, you said a few weeks. So I would be laying down fertilizer in like mid-November?


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## M32075 (May 9, 2019)

I'm guessing you're about 3 weeks from germination at this point you can probably but down some fertilizer this weekend or next. You can use just regular fertilizer like Scotts that's high in nitrogen. Don't use there fall fertilizer it could lead to snow mold. Just get ready to cut it's going to start growing rapidly. You can put it down at half bag rate since you put starter fertilizer down with the seed. Tall fescue is not a high demand for nitrogen.


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## Jmunk (Mar 23, 2021)

M32075 said:


> I'm guessing you're about 3 weeks from germination at this point you can probably but down some fertilizer this weekend or next. You can use just regular fertilizer like Scotts that's high in nitrogen. Don't use there fall fertilizer it could lead to snow mold. Just get ready to cut it's going to start growing rapidly. You can put it down at half bag rate since you put starter fertilizer down with the seed. Tall fescue is not a high demand for nitrogen.


Yep, probably just about 3 weeks now from the first signs of germination. I'll probably elect to put it down next weekend as I actually just hand spreaded some seeds over some bare spots that just didn't germinate. If they don't germinate, oh well, figured it was just better than nothing. Was thinking about https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lesco-LESCO-General-Fertilizer-30-0-10/5001213037, but this is slow-acting and not fast-acting, is that okay for this time?

Was also reading the stickied guide regarding the nitrogen blitz. Couple things, they mentioned "fast-acting" fertilizer, and applying nitrogen bi-weekly. I know they said this doesn't apply for oversewed lawns like mine - but my question is, don't people overseed kind of regularly every fall, or is that just incorrect? And in my case, it might take me another year or two before my lawn doesn't _need_ an overseed in the fall. That would mean I wouldn't be able to do the nitrogen blitz. Right?


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## M32075 (May 9, 2019)

I wouldn't go buy the Lesco to put down now but if you have it then put it down it's not a game changer and to finish it off. You really want something that's fast release like Scotts regular turf builder that's mostly fast release and can pick up anywhere or urea or ams but not sold in the big box stores. I'm not a blitz guy so hopefully someone chimes in on your questions.


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## Jmunk (Mar 23, 2021)

M32075 said:


> I wouldn't go buy the Lesco to put down now but if you have it then put it down it's not a game changer and to finish it off. You really want something that's fast release like Scotts regular turf builder that's mostly fast release and can pick up anywhere or urea or ams but not sold in the big box stores. I'm not a blitz guy so hopefully someone chimes in on your questions.


Gotcha. I don't mind picking up just some standard fert to finish this season off. Something like this, yeah? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Scotts-Turf-Builder-North-12-5-lb-5000-sq-ft-32-0-4-Lawn-Food/3653982. Also, at what point is it safe to use regular fertilizer and not "starter" fert on newly seeded grass? Just don't want to ruin any of the progress by using regular fertilizer when I shouldn't have.


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## Fraust (Apr 4, 2021)

Any year you're going to overseed, you won't be able to do the standard Nitrogen Blitz. Many folks here have KBG, which normally doesn't require overseeding as it will spread to fill thin areas. Those with TTTF often do need to overseed every or nearly every year, depending on how the grass makes it through the spring and summer. It's often a judgement call, should you overseed and spoon feed, or just push nitrogen with the Blitz.

And the only real difference between starter fert and "regular" is the ratio of NPK. If you've mowed your new grass, you're fine to use any fert you want.


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## Jmunk (Mar 23, 2021)

Fraust said:


> Any year you're going to overseed, you won't be able to do the standard Nitrogen Blitz. Many folks here have KBG, which normally doesn't require overseeding as it will spread to fill thin areas. Those with TTTF often do need to overseed every or nearly every year, depending on how the grass makes it through the spring and summer. It's often a judgement call, should you overseed and spoon feed, or just push nitrogen with the Blitz.
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> And the only real difference between starter fert and "regular" is the ratio of NPK. If you've mowed your new grass, you're fine to use any fert you want.


Ah, I see. I used Jonathan Green BB Ultra, so I have both the tall fescues and KBG in there, so I guess at that point come next fall (or even this spring I guess if it isn't filled in yet), I'll have to see if another overseed is the best course of action.

That makes sense with the fert. I think your point still stands but I wanted to see if it makes any difference. I was told to mow at the highest setting on the first mow. For my mower, that was 4 inches. It BARELY took anything off. I'm talking like, most of my mower bag was leaves. I was thinking about mowing again next weekend or even in a few days again at 3 inch height. I'm still good to use regular fert even though I barely took anything off at all, right?


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## Fraust (Apr 4, 2021)

I'd mow ASAP and take it down to 2". Mow it often and keep it at 2" for 3 or 4 mows then let it grow to whatever height you prefer after that. And yeah, use whatever fert you want. Though this time of year you're going to want something with quick release nitrogen and little to no potassium.


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## Jmunk (Mar 23, 2021)

Fraust said:


> I'd mow ASAP and take it down to 2". Mow it often and keep it at 2" for 3 or 4 mows then let it grow to whatever height you prefer after that. And yeah, use whatever fert you want. Though this time of year you're going to want something with quick release nitrogen and little to no potassium.


Right on, I can probably get a mow this weekend then. Just so I know, what exactly is the reasoning behind mowing frequently and cutting it somewhat short? I'm guessing it just encourages more/thicker growth?

I'm having a hard time figuring out ones that are fast-acting, but is the one I linked above good? It looks high in nitrogen and low everything else. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Scotts-Turf-Builder-North-12-5-lb-5000-sq-ft-32-0-4-Lawn-Food/3653982


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## M32075 (May 9, 2019)

Jmunk said:


> Fraust said:
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> > I'd mow ASAP and take it down to 2". Mow it often and keep it at 2" for 3 or 4 mows then let it grow to whatever height you prefer after that. And yeah, use whatever fert you want. Though this time of year you're going to want something with quick release nitrogen and little to no potassium.
> ...


Perfect fertilizer to put down today after you cut the lawn expecting rain late in the day. Lower your cut a little today next cut you can lower again. Expecting the grass to grow more rapidly after fertilizing so expect to cut twice a week to get it to thicken up


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## Jmunk (Mar 23, 2021)

M32075 said:


> Jmunk said:
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Cool. I'll apply that after I mow it down some more and then make sure I water it in. Another question, at what point do you transition from bagging in order to make sure light/water penetrate, and go back to mulching?


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