# Jacobsen PGM restore



## Jdaniel611 (Aug 12, 2018)

I picked up a Jacobsen PGM 22 on Craigslist.



The Craigslist PGM had good spark, 90psi compression but is blowing smoke. First I checked the valve gaps and they were within tolerance. My first thought was that the oil was over filled. I changed the oil and kept it under filled and then cleaned the valve cover and valves of excess oil. The motor still smoked after a minute of running. My second thought is that the rings are junk and the bore might need work. This motor will be thrown to the side for another winter project. 
Once I freed up the reel I found that the reel was also junk.



The other's PGM had good spark, 98psi compression and the valves were with tolerance and only has a light dusting of oil under the valve cover. This was looking good. This engine did not smoke and sounded fine running at idle and full throttle. This motor got new oil, spark plug and a new filter. 
However, the reel looks close to no life left. I still need to measure the OD to confirm.





In the end, I have one good motor and two machines so I decided to open up both machines and compare the parts inside.

I first started with the Craigslist PGM.





What I found was not the 140W gear oil I was expecting, but tons of grease. 
This wasn't a bad thing and might have saved the gears and chains from excess damage from heat if it was used this was.

The first bearing I removed on the drum shaft had a dead spot in it but spun nice except for that one spot and the oil seal is toast.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Love these mower restoration threads. :thumbup:


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

:thumbup:

These machines are so well built that it is fun to work on them,


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

If the muffler has oil in it from the mower being stored at a weird angle, it will take a good long time to burn off.


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## Jdaniel611 (Aug 12, 2018)

I had some time last night to look at the donated mower. It came with travel wheels but the wheel hub bearings didn't look to good.





You can see on the sleeves there is wear heat markings. This is a good sign of bad bearings. The sleeves and roll pins are also rusted tight on the shaft. I'll put some heat to them this weekend and dive in deeper. I did move the drum bearing housing and it didn't look promising for the bearings as water started to pour out.


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## Jdaniel611 (Aug 12, 2018)

@MasterMech I took your suggestion and swapped mufflers. It started up smoking but quickly disappeared. You might be right. The muffler could be oil soaked and just needs to burn off or in my case just swap it out with a new one. The Honda GX series motors parts are fairly cheap and the motor is easy to work on since there are so many copy cat motors on the market.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

Propane torch will cook out excess oil from the other muffler.


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## Jdaniel611 (Aug 12, 2018)

@MasterMech I was thinking about it like burning off two stoke mufflers and carbon build up.


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## Jdaniel611 (Aug 12, 2018)

I disassembled the Craigslist PGM more tonight for about an hour. Pulled the motor, handles, clutch box and more.





Found left over back lapping grease.



I normally used LA Awesome yellow concentrated cleaner watered down to remove grease. But I found this version at the dollar store a few months back and it works really well at breaking up grease and cleaning up my smoked up stainless grill. My guess it's the same formula watered down and in an easy spray bottle. Well worth the dollar.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

Jdaniel611 said:


> @MasterMech I was thinking about it like burning off two stoke mufflers and carbon build up.


With the way the skeeters can get around here in the summer evenings, I'm not so sure it wouldn't be a good idea to add a tablespoon of heavy oil to the muffler before each mow. :lol:


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## Jdaniel611 (Aug 12, 2018)

I spent a small amount of time again on the mower the other day. I removed the side plate and found that the reel roller bearing must have seen water as the grease was brown and the outer race ring is burnt up and has burs. This will need to be replaced since angle bearings are done in sets.

Since I don't have a race puller or a tig welder it looks like I'll have to get the old paint stripper heat gun out and see if the I can get the outer race to fall out. 
Here is a great video.


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## Jdaniel611 (Aug 12, 2018)

A quick up date.

The Outer race is removed. Heat from a heat gun always does the trick for easy removal without damaging the casting or seat area.

How to do it? Heat the surrounding area up to about 130 degrees and with a little tap out the bearing or race will come. A lot of people say 230 but that's really hot and at that temp the part should just fall out. Please remember with any cast aluminum part you should never try to drive or punch out a bearing as tolerances are very tight and you will damage the seating area. This is the opposite with cast steel parts, a puller or punch will work just fine as long as you don't need to reuse the bearings.


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## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

Interesting removal! I probably would have used a dremel to cut a deep slot and a chisel to crack it.


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## gene_stl (Oct 29, 2017)

> Love these mower restoration threads. :thumbup:


Me Three! Very interesting project.

I absolutely adore my 1800 watt heat gun. Extemely useful tool. I have snagged extra ones to make sure I always have one not too far away. Great for putting heat shrink on wiring too.


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## Jdaniel611 (Aug 12, 2018)

A small update. All the hardware has been degreased and going through rust removal now. I found soaking the parts in 10:1 LA Awesome overnight makes the grease just wash away in warm water. Then the hardware is put into evapo-rust for about 12 hours. 
I did find some hardware that needs to be replaced.

Once this is complete I need decide if I will nickel plate all the hardware.


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## Jdaniel611 (Aug 12, 2018)

Well I'm back at this now. Holiday breaks go by way to fast with kids and it feels like you never get anything done.

I did some sanding and prepping for the primer and finish coats. What are your thoughts of the colors below.

I feel like the final color looks more orange then the redish orange of the original color. I feel like I picked the wrong Persian Orange. I know Jacobsen has two versions but I stayed with what R&R was selling, thinking it would be the right orange.


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## GadgetVictim (Oct 30, 2018)

Hi, I purchased an old PGM 22. The mower works great, but I'm now trying to run through the recommended inspection and lubrication routines recommended in the tech manual that I downloaded for this Jacobsen model.
My problem is I can't find any detailed information on how to check and change the oil level for the Chain Case (item #11, section 8.12 in the tech manual). The manual recommends SAE EP-140 Oil - Drain and Refill yearly. 
I dont know where or how to check the oil, and how to drain and fill with new oil.
Can anyone provide or point me to source of information to accomplish the above?
I'd be very appreciative. Below provide pic of my pgm 22.


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## GadgetVictim (Oct 30, 2018)

Hi, I purchased an old PGM 22. The mower works great, but I'm now trying to run through the recommended inspection and lubrication routines recommended in the tech manual that I downloaded for this Jacobsen model.
My problem is I can't find any detailed information on how to check and change the oil level for the Chain Case (item #11, section 8.12 in the tech manual). The manual recommends SAE EP-140 Oil - Drain and Refill yearly. 
I dont know where or how to check the oil, and how to drain and fill with new oil.
Can anyone provide or point me to source of information to accomplish the above?
I'd be very appreciative. Below provide pic of my pgm 22.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

GadgetVictim said:


> Hi, I purchased an old PGM 22. The mower works great, but I'm now trying to run through the recommended inspection and lubrication routines recommended in the tech manual that I downloaded for this Jacobsen model.
> My problem is I can't find any detailed information on how to check and change the oil level for the Chain Case (item #11, section 8.12 in the tech manual). The manual recommends SAE EP-140 Oil - Drain and Refill yearly.
> I dont know where or how to check the oil, and how to drain and fill with new oil.
> Can anyone provide or point me to source of information to accomplish the above?
> I'd be very appreciative. Below provide pic of my pgm 22.


I'm not much immediate help with the PGM, due to lack of experience. But..... what's up with the GreensKing in the back? Curious minds want to know!


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## GadgetVictim (Oct 30, 2018)

Yes, that's a Greenking 518 in the back. I use the GreensKing for the finishing cut on my putting green. The PGM 22 is adjusted for higher cut height (=>3/16"). I also, own a Mclane 10 blade and Tru cut P20. I use the mower for different cuttong application on my lawn (skirts n de-thatching). 
I try to do my own maintenance and backlapping on all my mower.
However, the PGM 22 has me perplexed wrt check/changing the chain case oil. The reason I so concerned is that, in the process of changing the bedknife, I removed the engine, and turned the mower assembly on its left side (looking from back). After returning the mower upright, I noticed a puddle of oil had leaked out of the reel side cover (where lapping bolt attaches). So, I wanted to check the level of the oil in the chain case housing. I couldn't determine how to do that.


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## GadgetVictim (Oct 30, 2018)

Yes, that's a Greenking 518 in the back. I use the GreensKing for the finishing cut on my putting green. The PGM 22 is adjusted for higher cut height (=>3/16"). I also, own a Mclane 10 blade and Tru cut P20. I use the mower for different cuttong application on my lawn (skirts n de-thatching). 
I try to do my own maintenance and backlapping on all my mower.
However, the PGM 22 has me perplexed wrt check/changing the chain case oil. The reason I so concerned is that, in the process of changing the bedknife, I removed the engine, and turned the mower assembly on its left side (looking from back). After returning the mower upright, I noticed a puddle of oil had leaked out of the reel side cover (where lapping bolt attaches). So, I wanted to check the level of the oil in the chain case housing. I couldn't determine how to do that.
Just what to add that, wrt to the Greensking 518, other then changing the engine and backlapping reel, I've not done any maintenance or lub on this machine.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

What is the green arrow? Drain plug? If so, then is the blue arrow a check/fill plug?

In a system like that, sometimes there is a third plug located high for filling. I don't see anything immediately in your photo though.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

It looks like your fill plug is going to be inside the frame, hidden from view in your photo. Item 70.


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## Jdaniel611 (Aug 12, 2018)

This should help you with any questions.

I had a hard time finding straight 140w gear lube. I just used the highest cold/hot combo weights I could find.

http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/4157082.pdf?m=1354824690


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## GadgetVictim (Oct 30, 2018)

@MasterTech, Thanks for taking time to help. 
I'm not by my machine, but I believe the the green arrow points to one of the bolt that holds the bedknife on its horizontal axis. Theres another one on the other side. 
The blue arrow is a plug. That's part of my confusion. It looks like a drain plug. Also, it looks very frozen, so I'm afraid of unscrewing and breaking without determining how I'd put the oil back in if I take it off.


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## GadgetVictim (Oct 30, 2018)

@jdan@Jdaniel611 Wow, that Jacobsen PGM 22 Repair tech manual could ne what I've been looking to find. Thank you for the link. I need to make printout and study. I'll get back later after look over what you all posted. Thank you.


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## GadgetVictim (Oct 30, 2018)

MasterMech/Jdaniels,
Thanks, I got the tech manual printed (all 170+ pages), and it looks like what I've been looking for. I located the other chain case oil refill plug. It was just where you pointed out in the diagram. I've attached a pic:


I sprayed both plugs with WD last night, and will start working later today. I have another question:

This chain case oil issue started right after I changed the bedknife on my pgm 22. To remove the old warnout bedknife, I found it easier to first remove the engine (only 4 mounting bolts, and gas/choke line). I could then flip the mower chassis on its side to easily access all the stuff required to remove and reinstall the new bedknife.

The hardest part was the removal of the 13 screws that held the bedknife in place. I ended up removing the bedknife assembly from the main chassis, so I could work on removing the 13 screws on the work bench.
I initially tried loosening those screw with a big manual impact screw removal wrench unit that I purchased from Sears. The impact wrench did not work for me. I finally ended up wacking screw slits using a chisel and hammer to get the screw loose enough to remove with a screwdriver. All that said, I had to purchase 13 new screws, because my new bedknife did not come with a new set.

Now, my question to you is: 
1. Have you had similar problems with the bedknife screw removal? 
2. How do you remove the screws holding your bedknives? Any recommended tool or technique?

Last night, I just noticed that some of the 13 bedknife screws have worked loose, after using the mower. So, related question(s):
3. How do you retighten the screws, and apply the required amount of torque on the screws so it dosen't either strip the srew slits, or eventually loosen?

Again, thank you very much for your help. Or, as we say here in Hawaii...Mahalo Nui Loa.
Aloha, Barry


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## GadgetVictim (Oct 30, 2018)

Just got through review the newly downloaded PGM 22 repair manual, and realized that many of my questions relating to bedknife removal/install are addressed/covered in the manual. Sorry, I need to do my due diligence and read the manual more thoroughly.


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## GadgetVictim (Oct 30, 2018)

Okay, this is the only page I found that addresses the bedknife removal and installation. Can't find info on how the "pros" remove, reinstall, and torque those 13 screws.

Would appreciate any info on "how to...". I dont know the best way to accomplish those jobs. I'm just a hobbiest trying to fix my machine.

Pic of my pgm 22 bedknife:


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## Jdaniel611 (Aug 12, 2018)

The tech manual is everything the pros and factory use.

Screws should be installed from the middle screw outward toward the edges. I believe it's 90-120 ft lbs on each screw. I would go through the screws in two or three passes working up to the recommended spec.

Here is the link to all the PGM documents
https://www.jacobsen.com/americas-m...ion_findmanuals=Submit&Category=86&Product=59

Link to Green King documents
https://www.jacobsen.com/americas-m...ion_findmanuals=Submit&Category=86&Product=58


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Jdaniel611 said:


> The tech manual is everything the pros and factory use.
> 
> Screws should be installed from the middle screw outward toward the edges. I believe it's 90-120 ft lbs on each screw. I would go through the screws in two or three passes working up to the recommended spec.
> 
> ...


in lbs not ft lbs. Big difference. I screwed up a couple of screws using ft instead of in.


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## Jdaniel611 (Aug 12, 2018)

@g-man yes you are correct lb-in. Great catch!


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

@GadgetVictim I use an impact screwdriver to remove the screws. You place this tool and hit it with a hammer. It provides a high torque impact to get the screws loose.

To mount the bedknife use the anti seize. Manually place all the screw starting at the center and alternating left and right. You then need to use a torque wrench to do the proper torque.


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## GadgetVictim (Oct 30, 2018)

Found follow YouTube video putout by R&R Products on bedknife tool available:

"R&R Products - Bedknife Screw Driver " on YouTube
https://youtu.be/ikWh0l0Aa8o

This is the tool link on R&R Products website:

Bed Knife Screw Driver Tool | R&R Products, Inc. - Commercial Golf and Turf Industry Replacement Parts and Accessories
https://www.rrproducts.com/C6686/Equipment-Maintenance-Tools/Mower-Set~Up-Tools/Bed-Knife-Screw-Driver-Tool

Anyone used those tools? Re ommendation?


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## GadgetVictim (Oct 30, 2018)

The R&R screw driver tool for the Jacobsen Greens mower is R&R Product IDR101272T @$27+. The others are for Toro and JD mowers.

The Jacobsen distributor (Hayman Company)in Hawaii has in stock for little over $30 (that's the extra cost for living in the best climate on the planet&#128522. Plus, I dont have to pay for shipping and get instant gratification.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

GadgetVictim said:


> Okay, this is the only page I found that addresses the bedknife removal and installation. Can't find info on how the "pros" remove, reinstall, and torque those 13 screws.
> 
> Would appreciate any info on "how to...". I dont know the best way to accomplish those jobs. I'm just a hobbiest trying to fix my machine.
> 
> Pic of my pgm 22 bedknife:


Removing the entire bed bar assembly and fastening it to a bench is the normal method of replacing the knife. I would not normally attempt to do it on the mower. Pull the two pivot bolts and the whole thing pops right off my GK526a. The other comments regarding torquing in in lbs from the center out to the edges are spot on. I too work in at least two steps, before arriving at the final torque. If I'm feeling particularly out of it that day, I'll use a paint marker to mark my progress, but that's just habit more than anything else.



I also like to use a little dab of neversieze on the screw threads. I have also been known to clean the bed bar well and apply a light coat of grease before mounting the knife to keep the machined surfaces from rusting. If you do all that, removing the screws is a piece of cake with the hand impact screwdriver and a 16oz soft face deadblow. I also do not reuse the screws. I buy them 50 or so at a time (they're cheap!) and toss them when changing the knife.

If you are interested in a walk through of a reel replacement, I did a rebuild thread on my GK526a.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2471


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## GadgetVictim (Oct 30, 2018)

MasterMech, 
I took a quick look at the link job you posted. You did a great job in documenting and showing pics of the steps. I've been wondering about having to one day work on my 518. I do believe it very different from the PGM22, in that it uses belts drives vice chain drives.

The problem you had with the bedknife screws is what I've been dreading to avoid. That's why I so concerned about getting the screws installed correctly on my PGM22.

Did you use a tool similar to that R&R screw extractor with your screw extractor and/or torque wrench?

Also, can you post info on the neat looking digiral torque wrench seen on one of pictures included in your post.
Good information. Thanks, Gadget


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

GadgetVictim said:


> MasterMech,
> I took a quick look at the link job you posted. You did a great job in documenting and showing pics of the steps. I've been wondering about having to one day work on my 518. I do believe it very different from the PGM22, in that it uses belts drives vice chain drives.
> 
> The problem you had with the bedknife screws is what I've been dreading to avoid. That's why I so concerned about getting the screws installed correctly on my PGM22.
> ...


That neat little wrench has a neat not-so-little pricetag unfortunately. If I remember correctly it was around $300 and that would have been over a decade ago. It's a Snap-On Tech Wrench, 3-8" drive. I'm sure there are more affordable options these days.

As far as getting the broken screws out, it wasn't so bad. For that one I just took a dremel to the remnants of the head to free the bedknife. Once the knife was free, I hand drilled a hole down the center of the screw shank and then ran a deck screw into it from the backside to push it out of the hole. No special extractors with that one.

The PGM is indeed a very different machine than the GK series. Maybe I'll get to play with one one day.


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## Ngilbe36 (Jul 23, 2020)

Any thoughts on picking this up for $300?




I don't know a ton about it other than the seller says it starts


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