# Greenthumb Soil Test



## DR_GREENTHUMB (May 24, 2018)

Attached is my soil analysis, I paid for the thorough analysis however I find it much different then some I have read here. I used Milo, GreenTRX & ScreaminGreen last year, last application was in OCT I believe. I was wondering if using those products is why I have some higher readings. Or I was thinking some haven't been fully absorbed yet?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

That's a high pH like my soil. Their recommendations are good. Use Ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) as your source of nitrogen. Their test found P and K to be high, so don't apply any more (eg no Milo).

With a high pH, iron becomes hard for the roots to absorb thru the soil. This could lead to chloriosis (inability to produce chlorophyll). The best way to address it is with foliar (spray) application of iron so it is absorbed by the leafs. The cheapest product is FAS, Ferrous Ammonium sulfate, but it can stain hard surfaces. I use a product called FEature that doesn't stain at 2-4oz/ksqft every 3-4 weeks A 3lb bag cost $20 and should last you at least a season. The only problem is that it is currently out of stock.
FEature.


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## DR_GREENTHUMB (May 24, 2018)

g-man said:


> That's a high pH like my soil. Their recommendations are good. Use Ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) as your source of nitrogen. Their test found P and K to be high, so don't apply any more (eg no Milo).
> 
> With a high pH, iron becomes hard for the roots to absorb thru the soil. This could lead to chloriosis (inability to produce chlorophyll). The best way to address it is with foliar (spray) application of iron so it is absorbed by the leafs. The cheapest product is FAS, Ferrous Ammonium sulfate, but it can stain hard surfaces. I use a product called FEature that doesn't stain at 2-4oz/ksqft every 3-4 weeks A 3lb bag cost $20 and should last you at least a season. The only problem is that it is currently out of stock.
> FEature.


I did use FAS last year so that is good. I have a stockpile of GreenTRX so I am not too happy about that, I guess I just have to use your recommendation. What do you think about OSU's recommendation, 21-0-0-0-24? I believe they are suggesting Sulfur to lower the PH?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

If you have greentrx at hand, go ahead and use it. Greentrx is made using AS (21-0-0) with biosolids. I think the NPK is 16-1-2, so the P and K are very low percentage of the product.

OSU recommendations of 21-0-0-24 is Ammonium sulfate. We are talking about the same product. The last portion (24) is sulfur that the plants need, but it is not the same sulfur that lowers pH.

They are recommending elemental sulfur to help lower your pH. It is sold with that name, elemental sulfur.


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## DR_GREENTHUMB (May 24, 2018)

g-man said:


> If you have greentrx at hand, go ahead and use it. Greentrx is made using AS (21-0-0) with biosolids. I think the NPK is 16-1-2, so the P and K are very low percentage of the product.
> 
> OSU recommendations of 21-0-0-24 is Ammonium sulfate. We are talking about the same product. The last portion (24) is sulfur that the plants need, but it is not the same sulfur that lowers pH.
> 
> They are recommending elemental sulfur to help lower your pH. It is sold with that name, elemental sulfur.


Good deal, the only P & K my yard has ever been fed was from Milo & or the other two I listed.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Other than the soil salinity report, there's not much information to work from. The lower EC, the lower the salt content, the better. An EC of 2000 is higher than preferred, but as Bermuda is salt tolerant and Fescue is moderately salt tolerant, your current salt levels shouldn't create any major concern. Your chice in fertilizers most likely is responsible for your higher P levels. Suggest you cut down on any P additions greater than maintenance levels, if that. Your high K levels are more likely due to prior K fertilizer apps or due to the soil's parent material (your soil is innately high in K). You're very unlikely to dent the reserve carbonate in your soil, but regular applications of acidifying fertilizer and elemental sulfur can help keep soil water at a lower pH and be beneficial in aiding plant nutrient availability.


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## Kballen11 (Mar 26, 2018)

@DR_GREENTHUMB I am in Edmond and my pH is the same. Taking some steps to do my best to lower it. If you ever want to chat send me a message and I will tell you what my plan is after getting some great advice from all these experts.


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## DR_GREENTHUMB (May 24, 2018)

Kballen11 said:


> @DR_GREENTHUMB I am in Edmond and my pH is the same. Taking some steps to do my best to lower it. If you ever want to chat send me a message and I will tell you what my plan is after getting some great advice from all these experts.


Please feel free to elaborate what your plan is moving forward.


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## DR_GREENTHUMB (May 24, 2018)

Ridgerunner said:


> Other than the soil salinity report, there's not much information to work from. The lower EC, the lower the salt content, the better. An EC of 2000 is higher than preferred, but as Bermuda is salt tolerant and Fescue is moderately salt tolerant, your current salt levels shouldn't create any major concern. Your chice in fertilizers most likely is responsible for your higher P levels. Suggest you cut down on any P additions greater than maintenance levels, if that. Your high K levels are more likely due to prior K fertilizer apps or due to the soil's parent material (your soil is innately high in K). You're very unlikely to dent the reserve carbonate in your soil, but regular applications of acidifying fertilizer and elemental sulfur can help keep soil water at a lower pH and be beneficial in aiding plant nutrient availability.


Would you recommend then to use straight Nitrogen (21-0-0) and try to lower Ph with Sulfur?

Or straight N and FAS throughout this year only and retest?


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) can help lower soil solution pH temporarily and foliar applications of Fe (FAS) will help supply iron that is likely to be unavailable in a high pH soil. Both may produce an advantage for the turf.
Applying elemental sulfur can slightly help keep soil solution pH lower as a source of slow hydrogen release, but it's action (microbial) is circumstance (climate, temp/moisture) dependent.
You could search here for greendoc and citric acid. Citric acid can be regularly applied to help keep soil solution pH down.


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