# fall zoysia moves



## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Okay, its been a rough season for my palisades zoysia. Im a newb but in the end i think texas drought vs my water cheapness got the best of me (and the grass).

My question is this, what do yall zoysia people do for fall treatments when it comes to

fertilizer,
preventative and not-preventative fungicide,
Anything else

Im a monthly AMS fert guy, what do i do in the fall, and when do i do it?

Thanks!


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## Tmank87 (Feb 13, 2019)

I'm also interested in this


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## p1muserfan (Jul 7, 2019)

This is my second season with Palisades. Last year around October 1st I put down 3lbs/k of a 5-10-31 with 10% iron. I figured the .15 of N wouldn't hurt anything but the K source was M.O.P., high salt. Phosphorous that late probably wasn't too smart either. The grass never turned totally dormant color like my bermuda in the front did, I don't know if that's just the difference in the grass types or the fert. It was a warm winter too. This fall I'll be putting down 2lbs/k of some S.O.P. I bought this summer, no N or P at all.


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## WDE46 (Mar 11, 2019)

You guys should be putting out preemergent too. Same timing that Bermuda bible states.

I'll probably put out a preventative round of fungicide in mid September-early October. I get lawn rust in spring and fall it seems.

Zoysia greens up earlier and goes dormant later than Bermuda.


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## Tmank87 (Feb 13, 2019)

WDE46 said:


> You guys should be putting out preemergent too. Same timing that Bermuda bible states.
> 
> I'll probably put out a preventative round of fungicide in mid September-early October. I get lawn rust in spring and fall it seems.
> 
> Zoysia greens up earlier and goes dormant later than Bermuda.


Yep I figured PreEm and Fungicide treatment. Wasn't sure of anything else to help ensure the turf has a comfortable sleep and wakes up ready to roll.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

p1muserfan said:


> This is my second season with Palisades. Last year around October 1st I put down 3lbs/k of a 5-10-31 with 10% iron. I figured the .15 of N wouldn't hurt anything but the K source was M.O.P., high salt. Phosphorous that late probably wasn't too smart either. The grass never turned totally dormant color like my bermuda in the front did, I don't know if that's just the difference in the grass types or the fert. It was a warm winter too. This fall I'll be putting down 2lbs/k of some S.O.P. I bought this summer, no N or P at all.


Thanks, couple questions if you dont mind. I use AMS as N source, so not slow release. whens the last month to put that down?

Is K the only boost needed headed into winter?


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## sabanist (Mar 28, 2019)

I was advised muriat of potash in october as far as fert goes. Fungicides? Im all ears. But I know zoysia is safe for asoxystrobin and a number of other fungicides. That's what I have already for my st augustine back yard so I reckon that's what I'll apply.


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## jal (May 30, 2020)

sabanist said:


> I was advised muriat of potash in october as far as fert goes. Fungicides? Im all ears. But I know zoysia is safe for asoxystrobin and a number of other fungicides. That's what I have already for my st augustine back yard so I reckon that's what I'll apply.


I put some muriate of potash today (1.6 lb/1k sq ft) but that was because a soil test showed K deficiency.


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## p1muserfan (Jul 7, 2019)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> p1muserfan said:
> 
> 
> > This is my second season with Palisades. Last year around October 1st I put down 3lbs/k of a 5-10-31 with 10% iron. I figured the .15 of N wouldn't hurt anything but the K source was M.O.P., high salt. Phosphorous that late probably wasn't too smart either. The grass never turned totally dormant color like my bermuda in the front did, I don't know if that's just the difference in the grass types or the fert. It was a warm winter too. This fall I'll be putting down 2lbs/k of some S.O.P. I bought this summer, no N or P at all.
> ...


I would put your last shot of AMS down no later than Sep. 15th, I'll probably put mine down a little earlier. I've read your last fert app of any kind should be about 45 days before average 1st frost, which up here in DFW is Nov. 15th. So that means Oct. 1st. That's when I'll only be putting down K for winter


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## p1muserfan (Jul 7, 2019)

jal said:


> sabanist said:
> 
> 
> > I was advised muriat of potash in october as far as fert goes. Fungicides? Im all ears. But I know zoysia is safe for asoxystrobin and a number of other fungicides. That's what I have already for my st augustine back yard so I reckon that's what I'll apply.
> ...


That's a lot of K, and M.O.P. has a high salt content. You should stick to 1lb max every 30 days. You'd better water the heck out of your grass to move that salt through.


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## jayhawk (Apr 18, 2017)

Sop is preferred generally, over mop

I'd consider Cal/mag in the fall


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Ok thanks yall. Fall plan, something like this

AMS 0.5#N /k - final N hit of the year
SOP - quantity and timing tbd
Cal/mag - need to research. I have 8.0ph. Problem?
Fungicide
Pre-em
Crabgrass post-em, unsure which.

Thanks as always for the input yall


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## p1muserfan (Jul 7, 2019)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> Ok thanks yall. Fall plan, something like this
> 
> AMS 0.5#N /k - final N hit of the year
> SOP - quantity and timing tbd
> ...


No need for crabgrass post-em, it will die with the first frost. Pre-m for crabgrass is in the spring before soil temps rise above 55.


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## jayhawk (Apr 18, 2017)

With a basic pre-em schedule, healthy (thick n tight) zoysia ....crab is least of my worries? Am I the only one? 
Perhaps lower reel cut helps?


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

jayhawk said:


> With a basic pre-em schedule, healthy (thick n tight) zoysia ....crab is least of my worries? Am I the only one?
> Perhaps lower reel cut helps?


No. I mostly have to use more herbicides on Zoysia growing where it does not belong(wet, shady lawns).


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## jal (May 30, 2020)

p1muserfan said:


> jal said:
> 
> 
> > sabanist said:
> ...


1.6 lbs of fertilizer results in an application of 1 lb / 1k sq ft of K - see here: https://www.siteone.com/pdf/sdsPDF?skuId=337984&resourceId=16320


jayhawk said:


> Sop is preferred generally, over mop
> 
> I'd consider Cal/mag in the fall


Agreed - I asked for SOP at SiteOne but didn't check until I got home.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

for Zoysia fungicide program. What have people had success with? I was planning to go rotation of Headway and Prostar but man the Prostar is expensive. any good results with a different combo? My palisades is high side of shaded. Thanks!


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

@Texas_Bermuda Tebuconazole is very inexpensive, very effective against patch diseases, and is a DMI so it acts as a growth regulator as well. The only negative is that it isn't labeled for residential use.


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## Chief Brody (Aug 6, 2020)

I'm glad this thread exists. I've been in my current house for about 10 months, now. When we moved in, the Zoysia was already dormant and when spring came around, everything greened up fine thankfully.

My biggest concern is weeds, so I have to be diligent with getting a pre-em down in the next few weeks or so.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Spammage said:


> @Texas_Bermuda Tebuconazole is very inexpensive, very effective against patch diseases, and is a DMI so it acts as a growth regulator as well. The only negative is that it isn't labeled for residential use.


And what do we think about prod not marked for resi use  ? Do I need 2 products to rotate? Is that a requirement?


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> > @Texas_Bermuda Tebuconazole is very inexpensive, very effective against patch diseases, and is a DMI so it acts as a growth regulator as well. The only negative is that it isn't labeled for residential use.
> ...


I can tell you with great certainty that it gets used in at least one Dallas County lawn. :thumbup:

Yes, it is best to rotate two different fungicides (with different FRAC codes) to avoid resistance.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Picked up some granular azoxy (disease x) and granular propiconezole (bayer) will alt every other month in spring and fall. Takin the cheap route will see how she goes.


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## Southern Lawn (Dec 31, 2019)

I ran across this a few months back....accidentally posted it in a Bermuda post. I will post it here.

Milt Engelke‎ to Team Zoysia
January 13, 2015 · 
TIME TO FERTILIZE - i.e., DORMANT FEED ZOYSIAGRASS
this will aid in prevention or at least to minimize the incidence of patch diseases on zoysiagrass.

Fertilization practices on Zoysiagrass too often follow the same schedule as with bermudagrass and paspalums. You will get into trouble if you do. Primary reason is the zoysiagrasses don't have as high a Nitrogen need and if supplied can quickly result in excessive thatch build-up and all too often incite development of diseases issues, especially the Patch diseases. The key issue to keep in mind is the plant does require food (N-P-K) to thrive and therefore purposeful applications should be made on a timely basis, but not excessive and not in excess at any given time. In reality most zoysiagrasses will require less than 1/4# of Nitrogen per growing month, never to exceed 3# in any given year, including establishment year from sod, seed or sprigs. Slow release forms of fertilizers are excellent, and a periodic soil test is a must. N and K should be applied at approximately the same ratio, possibly with more K than N through the year, and Phosphorous applied as needed. Now here is a major caveat to fertility; time your fertilizer application to avoid stimulating disease.

Patch diseases are most active during periods of high humidity [wet] and when the grass is not as actively growing (SOIL TEMPERATURES BELOW 18 C, 65 F). Under active growth the plant can out grow disease and you will have less incidence and better recovery. The problem usually occurs under cool climatic conditions (late fall or early spring), heavily and or overcast weather. In climates where Zoysiagrass will go winter dormant I recommend a full application of N-P-K in a 100% slow release formulation [i.e., dead of winter - DORMANT FEED]. The fertilizer will have sufficient time to move through the canopy into the soil away from plant tissue and being insoluble will not be available until the soil microbes and soil temperatures allow for its decomposition. The free N is away from the disease organisms and not as likely to incite disease development in the early spring. Microbial activity is closely associated with soil temperatures and as the temperatures approach 16 - 18 C, their activity increases along with the Zoysiagrass roots. This eliminates the need to guess when the best time for spring fertilization is as the plant will have it when it needs it. A follow up fertilization again with a slow release type fertilizer should be targeted during mid-summer period again avoiding monsoon or extremely wet periods, and the last fertilization should be approximately 3 months before entering winter dormancy. If soil pH is alkaline (>7.5) avoid using a Phosphorous fertilizer for this last fertilization. Acidic or neutral soils can handle late P applications. In alkaline soils, the P will interact with micros over the fall and winter months and result in moderate to severe chlorosis of the turf in the spring. Dormant application of P is ok. This is one of the first steps in being proactive to managing potential disease problems. Don't feed the fungus!


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## jayhawk (Apr 18, 2017)

@Southern Lawn I saw that too, I think on a @bladerunnerfarms blog ...I haven't been doing the typical spring N apps (and I have shaded yard)


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## Tmank87 (Feb 13, 2019)

Interesting on the dormant feed.

Anyone recommend a 1-1-1 slow release fertilizer?


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## Southern Lawn (Dec 31, 2019)

I was trying to apply 1/2 lb N every 2 months, so the fertilizer I used was EarthWorks. They make an 8-2-2, that is supposed to be an "ideal dormant feed product...."

http://www.earthworksturf.com/replenish-8-2-2/


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## AlaTex (Mar 27, 2019)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> Picked up some granular azoxy (disease x) and granular propiconezole (bayer) will alt every other month in spring and fall. Takin the cheap route will see how she goes.


I've had good results using this rotation.


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## TampaBayFL (Jul 24, 2020)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> Picked up some granular azoxy (disease x) and granular propiconezole (bayer) will alt every other month in spring and fall. Takin the cheap route will see how she goes.


Ive been using Azoxy (Scotts Disease EX) every 21 days, Propiconizole 14.3 every 14 days and Clearys 3336F (Thiophanate) every 14 days and it seems to be working...... fungus was unfortunately getting established in my yard and this seems to be allowing recovery, but its still not 100% gone.


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## Harley (May 3, 2020)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> Picked up some granular azoxy (disease x) and granular propiconezole (bayer) will alt every other month in spring and fall. Takin the cheap route will see how she goes.


I apply both products at the same time every 4 weeks with excellent results. What is your theory for alternate apps?


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