# Lawn Starting to turn yellow-ish and grass blades appear to be dying



## Kenny_Login

As the title suggests, my lawn here in the Boston area is starting to turn yellow because some of the grass appears to by dying. I've gone from this:










to this:










Here's close-up of the grass:





































I out down pre-emergent in the spring, and grub-killer as we had grubs last year. Starter fert was the Lesco stuff (I'm not sure the ratios of the top of my head).

My lawn started off great this year, but concerned something is going on that I need to fix. Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions?

Cheers.


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## MassHole

Have you done any fungus control?


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## Kenny_Login

I have not, do you think I should?


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## maynardGkeynes

Has it been raining a lot the last few weeks?
I would say fungus, possibly brown patch.
Lawn can recover from bp w/o fungicide if the weather cooperates. 
Prevention is better than cure.
Water early in the day only. No more than 1 inch a week, including rain.
If you know hot humid weather is on the way, you can try a systemic fungicide. Personally, I use Immunox, but there are many. Rotate among fungided classes to avaoid resistance.
But again, best to prevent by proper watering regime rather than chemicals.


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## tgreen

That looks a lot like my lawn. I bet other lawns in your area look the same? Point is that it's really hard to maintain that early to mid spring look. A lot of us spend a lot of time and a fortune trying to. I would say a couple things are going on. Looks like possible 1) brown patch which is extremely common on tall fescue and 2) possibly you've had a lot of water? It can suffocate the roots and cause some yellowing from chlorosis. I have the above two issues in my lawn right now and that is despite an application of azoxystrobin fungicide (scott's diseasex). It is incredibly unlikely you are going to lose your lawn or something disastrous. I would 1) stop fertilizing until late August/ early sept, a little milorganite or organic is ok if you want 2) watch the watering, try for about an inch once per week and water in the early morning and 3) if you want to spend the money you could put down scott's diseasex but I doubt that will take you back to what your lawn looked like in pic 1. Don't worry, either way, by September or so your lawn will look great again. good luck


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## Kenny_Login

Thanks @maynardGkeynes and @tgreen.

So, to give some more info, I have a Rachio for my irrigation. I did the tuna can test and set up the flow rates etc (hopefully) correctly to give ~1 inch a week. I originally had it to run every 3 days, but made it every other (2) days recently. Less water, more frequently.

That being said, that schedule hasn't run yet, as it's been skipped because of rain. According to Dark Sky's time machine, we've had about 1.6 inches of rain in the last 2 weeks. It last ran on Sunday, but probably doesn't need to for a while, thanks to the rain. Maybe I'll disable it for a few days, to ensure no more water comes from irrigation for a while.

I put down Milo on Memorial Day, I forget the rate though. I need to take better logs.

After @MassHole mentioned fungus control I read the fungicide guide here and checked out the Lawn Care Nut videos on fungicide. So I think I'll invest in something and put it down and hopefully that will help.

If anyone has any more specific recommendations for fungicide applications that are in the same area/situation, I'm all ears.


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## tgreen

Kenny_Login said:


> Thanks @maynardGkeynes and @tgreen.
> 
> So, to give some more info, I have a Rachio for my irrigation. I did the tuna can test and set up the flow rates etc (hopefully) correctly to give ~1 inch a week. I originally had it to run every 3 days, but made it every other (2) days recently. Less water, more frequently.
> 
> That being said, that schedule hasn't run yet, as it's been skipped because of rain. According to Dark Sky's time machine, we've had about 1.6 inches of rain in the last 2 weeks. It last ran on Sunday, but probably doesn't need to for a while, thanks to the rain. Maybe I'll disable it for a few days, to ensure no more water comes from irrigation for a while.
> 
> I put down Milo on Memorial Day, I forget the rate though. I need to take better logs.
> 
> After @MassHole mentioned fungus control I read the fungicide guide here and checked out the Lawn Care Nut videos on fungicide. So I think I'll invest in something and put it down and hopefully that will help.
> 
> If anyone has any more specific recommendations for fungicide applications that are in the same area/situation, I'm all ears.


Sounds good but be careful when doing research on brown patch. A lot of people will recommend propiconazole, myclobutanil or t-methyl. They are labeled for brown patch but do NOT work and may make the problem worse. Many choose these because they are cheap but fungicides and cheap don't go together. You either have to spend the money or don't bother. Here's an article and link on this topic to help

https://www.plantpath.k-state.edu/extension/documents/turf/Brown%20patch%20%20homeowners%202016.pdf

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=9940&p=163036&hilit=brown+patch#p163036


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## 440mag

tgreen said:


> ... fungicides and cheap don't go together.


Quoted for TRUTH


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## ericgautier

440mag said:


> tgreen said:
> 
> 
> 
> ... fungicides and cheap don't go together.
> 
> 
> 
> Quoted for TRUTH
Click to expand...

For some, the fungicide groupbuys could make it cheap. :thumbup:


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## Green

I'm watching this thread, because I have similar-looking disease on a few patches. Interested in seeing if anyone IDs it definitively.

@Kenny_Login, how new is the lawn?

Also, I see mostly KBG, which you don't list as a grass type.


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## JDgreen18

Green said:


> I'm watching this thread, because I have similar-looking disease on a few patches. Interested in seeing if anyone IDs it definitively.
> 
> @Kenny_Login, how new is the lawn?
> 
> Also, I see mostly KBG, which you don't list as a grass type.


Me too


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## craigdt

tgreen said:


> Kenny_Login said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks @maynardGkeynes and @tgreen.
> 
> So, to give some more info, I have a Rachio for my irrigation. I did the tuna can test and set up the flow rates etc (hopefully) correctly to give ~1 inch a week. I originally had it to run every 3 days, but made it every other (2) days recently. Less water, more frequently.
> 
> That being said, that schedule hasn't run yet, as it's been skipped because of rain. According to Dark Sky's time machine, we've had about 1.6 inches of rain in the last 2 weeks. It last ran on Sunday, but probably doesn't need to for a while, thanks to the rain. Maybe I'll disable it for a few days, to ensure no more water comes from irrigation for a while.
> 
> I put down Milo on Memorial Day, I forget the rate though. I need to take better logs.
> 
> After @MassHole mentioned fungus control I read the fungicide guide here and checked out the Lawn Care Nut videos on fungicide. So I think I'll invest in something and put it down and hopefully that will help.
> 
> If anyone has any more specific recommendations for fungicide applications that are in the same area/situation, I'm all ears.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds good but be careful when doing research on brown patch. A lot of people will recommend propiconazole, myclobutanil or t-methyl. They are labeled for brown patch but do NOT work and may make the problem worse. Many choose these because they are cheap but fungicides and cheap don't go together. You either have to spend the money or don't bother. Here's an article and link on this topic to help
> 
> https://www.plantpath.k-state.edu/extension/documents/turf/Brown%20patch%20%20homeowners%202016.pdf
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=9940&p=163036&hilit=brown+patch#p163036
Click to expand...

I think the important thing to note about the K-State pdf you posted is that its says the homeowner grade formulations of those fungicides are not effective. I assume that to mean the stuff you get at Home Depot.

But the good liquid concentrate you buy will do the trick if you mix it up at the correct rates.

I used the curative rate of propiconazole last fall to solve a pretty nasty brown patch outbreak and it worked great.


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## Kenny_Login

@Green - yeah, sorry, mostly KBG. I did a reno last fall and got rid of the tall fescue that I had before and put down Pennington's KBG. I realise I haven't update my profile. Sorry about that.

@JDgreen18 - yeah looks very similar.


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## Kenny_Login

@craigdt - yeah, I have to say, that jumped out at me too. I wondered what they considered 'homeowner formulations'.

I was all set to buy some fungicide, but now it left me a little confused.


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## tgreen

Kenny_Login said:


> @craigdt - yeah, I have to say, that jumped out at me too. I wondered what they considered 'homeowner formulations'.
> 
> I was all set to buy some fungicide, but now it left me a little confused.


Couple things, 1) if you say your lawn is predominantly kbg then that is not brown patch. The lesions in the pics with the wide blades look like tall fescue to me but if you say that's kbg then it's not brown patch. 2) propiconazole is proven to work well on dollar spot. If people have first hand experience with high rates of propiconazole on brown patch then I would give that a try. I used it several years ago before discovering azoxystrobin and propy didn't work for me. Let us know what you do and how it works.


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## Kenny_Login

@craigdt - it could well be tall fescue, that's what I had before, and scalped when I put down the Pennington seed. I'm starting to second-guess myself now on the seed. Maybe it was the Northeast Mix?

I also got a new blade for the mower today too. Looking at these pictures, I can see the blades aren't cut very cleanly.

I think I'll try the DiseaseX and see how that goes.


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## g-man

@Kenny_Login in the last month, how much nitrogen did you apply? And what source?

I don't think it could be brown patch since your original image shows no patch. I seen an even color response.

In your 3rd image from the top, I don't like the small black dots. Is it getting worst?


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## silvercymbal

You aren't alone my friend! My lawn and every one of my neighbors is having this. I diagnosed mine as red thread. As you know we have had a CRAZY amount of rain here in Massachusetts. Because I have two lawns more or less. I treated one with Headway G and one with nothing 3 weeks ago. The treated lawn is doing very well the other not so much and it's completely the fungus. I just treated that area with Headway G. I made a video about diseases and there are plenty of others but I wanted to chime in since I am local to you and feel your pain! The fungicides take a little time to work 2-3 weeks but for me they have been good.



Kenny_Login said:


> As the title suggests, my lawn here in the Boston area is starting to turn yellow because some of the grass appears to by dying. I've gone from this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> to this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's close-up of the grass:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I out down pre-emergent in the spring, and grub-killer as we had grubs last year. Starter fert was the Lesco stuff (I'm not sure the ratios of the top of my head).
> 
> My lawn started off great this year, but concerned something is going on that I need to fix. Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions?
> 
> Cheers.


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## g-man

@silvercymbal this lawn doesn't show red thread either. First it is yellow and not red and second red thread is circular damage (~6in in diameter). This is even.


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## tgreen

g-man said:


> @Kenny_Login in the last month, how much nitrogen did you apply? And what source?
> 
> I don't think it could be brown patch since your original image shows no patch. I seen an even color response.
> 
> In your 3rd image from the top, I don't like the small black dots. Is it getting worst?


I see lesions on the wider bladed grass which I presume is tall fescue. The lesions don't look like dollar or leaf spot, although the only way to know for sure is to send it to a turf path lab. What other disease would cause lesions at this time of year to tall fescue? I have these same lesions in my own TF stand at this time of year but it doesn't show the classic patch look when viewed from a few feet away. I always assumed this was brown patch due to the scalloped shape of the lesions looking like classic brown patch. Thanks


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## g-man

These lesions?


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## maynardGkeynes

craigdt said:


> tgreen said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds good but be careful when doing research on brown patch. A lot of people will recommend propiconazole, myclobutanil or t-methyl. They are labeled for brown patch but do NOT work and may make the problem worse. Many choose these because they are cheap but fungicides and cheap don't go together. You either have to spend the money or don't bother. Here's an article and link on this topic to help
> 
> https://www.plantpath.k-state.edu/extension/documents/turf/Brown%20patch%20%20homeowners%202016.pdf
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=9940&p=163036&hilit=brown+patch#p163036
> 
> 
> 
> I think the important thing to note about the K-State pdf you posted is that its says the homeowner grade formulations of those fungicides are not effective. I assume that to mean the stuff you get at Home Depot.
> 
> But the good liquid concentrate you buy will do the trick if you mix it up at the correct rates.
> 
> I used the curative rate of propiconazole last fall to solve a pretty nasty brown patch outbreak and it worked great.
Click to expand...

+1
They key with both myclobutanil (Immunox) and propiconazole (Bayer) is not to use the hose end sprayers, which put out way too much water, with excessive dilution. With Immunox, I use a tank sprayer at 7oz per gallon/per 500 sq feet. I also try to spray when the leaf surface is dry. Note also that you have to work pretty fast to get the gallon to cover 1000sqf. People who use the hose end sprayers think they are getting more coverage, but it's mostly water. Neither myclobutanil nor propiconazole are good as a curative, in my experience, so you need to pre-treat. Neither is 100% effective if the disease pressure is moderate to to heavy. Then, I think Heritage G works much better. But, it's too expensive for me.


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## maynardGkeynes

g-man said:


> These lesions?


Looks more like leaf spot to me -- the black dots.


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## Kenny_Login

g-man said:


> @Kenny_Login in the last month, how much nitrogen did you apply? And what source?
> 
> I don't think it could be brown patch since your original image shows no patch. I seen an even color response.
> 
> In your 3rd image from the top, I don't like the small black dots. Is it getting worst?


@g-man: I applied Milorganite on May 27th at 10lbs/1000sq feet. I'm not sure if it's getting worse, we have sun today, so it looks better. When it's overcast, it's easier to make it out.


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## Kenny_Login

@silvercymbal - I just watched your video on fungicide. Thanks for that!

So, is the consensus just put down Heritage G? By my maths, if I ~3000 sq feet, and I put it down at 3lbs per 1k sq feet (it says 2-4 on the label, IIRC), the 10lb bag would be enough? Maths is not my strong suit.


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## g-man

I think scott diseasex is cheaper for a granular.


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## maynardGkeynes

g-man said:


> I think scott diseasex is cheaper for a granular.


Interesting...never saw that before. Is that a new product for Scotts? It's cheaper than Heritage-G in my area. Scott's used to make another one that really wasn't very good.


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## g-man

@maynardGkeynes maybe a year or 2 old. They still make the other one. Amazon had the Scott (azoxy) on special a couple of weeks ago at $11/bag ($19 regular).

It is granular, which I am not a fan of for curative, but it works great in the early phases and as a preventive.


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## Zaly61

My lawn started looking the same after a few rainy days.


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## Delmarva Keith

Parallel ribs on the grass blades in the op's photos say tall fescue to me.

The black dots looking things are consistent with the anthracnose acervuli. Not common on fescue but it happens.

Characteristic patches and smoke rings and margins, etc., etc., of the various diseases don't always appear like the golf course photos when a lawn is cut 4x or more taller than a golf course fairway. Hard to diagnose from a few photos but I think @g-man is right that it isn't brown patch, Brown patch doesn't produce spores.

I am not a fungus expert.


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## KevCarter

Kenny_Login said:


> @silvercymbal - I just watched your video on fungicide. Thanks for that!
> 
> So, is the consensus just put down Heritage G? By my maths, if I ~3000 sq feet, and I put it down at 3lbs per 1k sq feet (it says 2-4 on the label, IIRC), the 10lb bag would be enough? Maths is not my strong suit.


Another great option from the same company is Headway G. It contains both Azoxy and Propiconazole. Maybe a little pricey, but recommended by my greens superintendent. When I used DiseaseX, I also needed to combine with propiconazole to get the job done on Brown Patch last season...


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## Belgianbillie

tgreen said:


> Kenny_Login said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks @maynardGkeynes and @tgreen.
> 
> So, to give some more info, I have a Rachio for my irrigation. I did the tuna can test and set up the flow rates etc (hopefully) correctly to give ~1 inch a week. I originally had it to run every 3 days, but made it every other (2) days recently. Less water, more frequently.
> 
> That being said, that schedule hasn't run yet, as it's been skipped because of rain. According to Dark Sky's time machine, we've had about 1.6 inches of rain in the last 2 weeks. It last ran on Sunday, but probably doesn't need to for a while, thanks to the rain. Maybe I'll disable it for a few days, to ensure no more water comes from irrigation for a while.
> 
> I put down Milo on Memorial Day, I forget the rate though. I need to take better logs.
> 
> After @MassHole mentioned fungus control I read the fungicide guide here and checked out the Lawn Care Nut videos on fungicide. So I think I'll invest in something and put it down and hopefully that will help.
> 
> If anyone has any more specific recommendations for fungicide applications that are in the same area/situation, I'm all ears.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds good but be careful when doing research on brown patch. A lot of people will recommend propiconazole, myclobutanil or t-methyl. They are labeled for brown patch but do NOT work and may make the problem worse. Many choose these because they are cheap but fungicides and cheap don't go together. You either have to spend the money or don't bother. Here's an article and link on this topic to help
> 
> https://www.plantpath.k-state.edu/extension/documents/turf/Brown%20patch%20%20homeowners%202016.pdf
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=9940&p=163036&hilit=brown+patch#p163036
Click to expand...

What do you mean... prop is labelled to treat brown patch...?


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## Belgianbillie

craigdt said:


> tgreen said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kenny_Login said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks @maynardGkeynes and @tgreen.
> 
> So, to give some more info, I have a Rachio for my irrigation. I did the tuna can test and set up the flow rates etc (hopefully) correctly to give ~1 inch a week. I originally had it to run every 3 days, but made it every other (2) days recently. Less water, more frequently.
> 
> That being said, that schedule hasn't run yet, as it's been skipped because of rain. According to Dark Sky's time machine, we've had about 1.6 inches of rain in the last 2 weeks. It last ran on Sunday, but probably doesn't need to for a while, thanks to the rain. Maybe I'll disable it for a few days, to ensure no more water comes from irrigation for a while.
> 
> I put down Milo on Memorial Day, I forget the rate though. I need to take better logs.
> 
> After @MassHole mentioned fungus control I read the fungicide guide here and checked out the Lawn Care Nut videos on fungicide. So I think I'll invest in something and put it down and hopefully that will help.
> 
> If anyone has any more specific recommendations for fungicide applications that are in the same area/situation, I'm all ears.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds good but be careful when doing research on brown patch. A lot of people will recommend propiconazole, myclobutanil or t-methyl. They are labeled for brown patch but do NOT work and may make the problem worse. Many choose these because they are cheap but fungicides and cheap don't go together. You either have to spend the money or don't bother. Here's an article and link on this topic to help
> 
> https://www.plantpath.k-state.edu/extension/documents/turf/Brown%20patch%20%20homeowners%202016.pdf
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=9940&p=163036&hilit=brown+patch#p163036
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think the important thing to note about the K-State pdf you posted is that its says the homeowner grade formulations of those fungicides are not effective. I assume that to mean the stuff you get at Home Depot.
> 
> But the good liquid concentrate you buy will do the trick if you mix it up at the correct rates.
> 
> I used the curative rate of propiconazole last fall to solve a pretty nasty brown patch outbreak and it worked great.
Click to expand...

How many oz per 1000 did you use? I just did my lawn and did a bit more than 2 oz.


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## Flying Aces

Kenny_Login said:


> Thanks @maynardGkeynes and @tgreen.
> 
> So, to give some more info, I have a Rachio for my irrigation. I did the tuna can test and set up the flow rates etc (hopefully) correctly to give ~1 inch a week. I originally had it to run every 3 days, but made it every other (2) days recently. *Less water, more frequently. *
> 
> That being said, that schedule hasn't run yet, as it's been skipped because of rain. According to Dark Sky's time machine, we've had about 1.6 inches of rain in the last 2 weeks. It last ran on Sunday, but probably doesn't need to for a while, thanks to the rain. Maybe I'll disable it for a few days, to ensure no more water comes from irrigation for a while.
> 
> I put down Milo on Memorial Day, I forget the rate though. I need to take better logs.
> 
> After @MassHole mentioned fungus control I read the fungicide guide here and checked out the Lawn Care Nut videos on fungicide. So I think I'll invest in something and put it down and hopefully that will help.
> 
> If anyone has any more specific recommendations for fungicide applications that are in the same area/situation, I'm all ears.


I know this thread is about fungus but I thought I'd point out this watering you mentioned. Less frequent and more water is better than more frequent and less water. Promotes stronger/deeper roots.


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## Kenny_Login

@Flying Aces - sure, that was my understanding too. The reason I switched the schedule was probably the start of whatever this is. My lasw was starting to yellow/brown, and I thought it was getting stressed out. More likely it's probably down to too much water, from the amount of rain we've had in/around Boston. I'll likely switch back to every 3rd day. I've turned my irrigation off for now. We're having so much rain, there's no real need right now.


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## Kenny_Login

For everyone one the thread, I bought some Scott's DiseaseEx (Group 11) and Bayer Advanced Fungus Control for Lawns (Group 3) and put down the Scott's this morning before we got more (!) rain. I'll come back and update the rain if/when things change or improve. Thanks everyone for their help, suggestions and advice! Much appreciated!


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## BXMurphy

I would SO not be watering right now in eastern Massachusetts (probably all of New England, too). We've had more than enough rain for our lawns. Too much.

You'll want the top inch-ish to be dry, the next ~5 inches to be moist like a well wrung-out towel.

The proper soil condition will cut down about 75-80% of our problems. Fungus... virus... bugs... rot... weeds... a lot of that is caused by us loving our lawns to DEATH!... With too much water.

Man, it's even raining right now after getting an inch just a couple of days ago! I have a full sun bare spot about 4'×4' at the edge of my lawn where I killed off all the weeds, crab/quackgrass last year that STILL hasn't dried out! This spot gets all my "entering the lawn" foot traffic.

I haven't watered once so far this year. Not even my flower and vegetable beds. And... I don't use mulch. Everything is thriving.

Looking at the pictures, it looks like some different grasses and maybe high/low spots in the grade. You just might have different grasses suffering at different times.

Me? I'd hit that with some iron to boost up the chlorophyll and check your soil test to make sure you're not putting down lime when you don't need it.

Why?

Because you look like you might be on municipal water which is typically buffered to neutral 7.0 pH (or higher!). If you irrigate with that, you probably don't need lime (contrary to New England spring time lawn lore).

Murph


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## tgreen

Belgianbillie said:


> tgreen said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kenny_Login said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks @maynardGkeynes and @tgreen.
> 
> So, to give some more info, I have a Rachio for my irrigation. I did the tuna can test and set up the flow rates etc (hopefully) correctly to give ~1 inch a week. I originally had it to run every 3 days, but made it every other (2) days recently. Less water, more frequently.
> 
> That being said, that schedule hasn't run yet, as it's been skipped because of rain. According to Dark Sky's time machine, we've had about 1.6 inches of rain in the last 2 weeks. It last ran on Sunday, but probably doesn't need to for a while, thanks to the rain. Maybe I'll disable it for a few days, to ensure no more water comes from irrigation for a while.
> 
> I put down Milo on Memorial Day, I forget the rate though. I need to take better logs.
> 
> After @MassHole mentioned fungus control I read the fungicide guide here and checked out the Lawn Care Nut videos on fungicide. So I think I'll invest in something and put it down and hopefully that will help.
> 
> If anyone has any more specific recommendations for fungicide applications that are in the same area/situation, I'm all ears.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds good but be careful when doing research on brown patch. A lot of people will recommend propiconazole, myclobutanil or t-methyl. They are labeled for brown patch but do NOT work and may make the problem worse. Many choose these because they are cheap but fungicides and cheap don't go together. You either have to spend the money or don't bother. Here's an article and link on this topic to help
> 
> https://www.plantpath.k-state.edu/extension/documents/turf/Brown%20patch%20%20homeowners%202016.pdf
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=9940&p=163036&hilit=brown+patch#p163036
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What do you mean... prop is labelled to treat brown patch...?
Click to expand...

Yes, see page 5 at this link to a label

http://www.cdms.net/LDat/ldUJQ002.pdf

Here's a link to relative efficacies of various chemicals on BP

https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/brown-patch-in-turf/

Propiconazole, myclobutanil and tmethly did not work for me on brown patch but others here say it does work for them. Certainly a lot less expensive than azoxystrobin and the other chemistries.


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## BXMurphy

Good grief!

The Massachusetts Water Resources Authority (MWRA) treats their water to achieve 9.0-9.5 pH.

Edit: The higher pH is to prevent metals (like lead) from leaching out of plumbing that may be in your house.

http://www.mwra.com/04water/html/qual4concerns.htm

B


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## craigdt

Belgianbillie said:


> craigdt said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tgreen said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds good but be careful when doing research on brown patch. A lot of people will recommend propiconazole, myclobutanil or t-methyl. They are labeled for brown patch but do NOT work and may make the problem worse. Many choose these because they are cheap but fungicides and cheap don't go together. You either have to spend the money or don't bother. Here's an article and link on this topic to help
> 
> https://www.plantpath.k-state.edu/extension/documents/turf/Brown%20patch%20%20homeowners%202016.pdf
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=9940&p=163036&hilit=brown+patch#p163036
> 
> 
> 
> I think the important thing to note about the K-State pdf you posted is that its says the homeowner grade formulations of those fungicides are not effective. I assume that to mean the stuff you get at Home Depot.
> 
> But the good liquid concentrate you buy will do the trick if you mix it up at the correct rates.
> 
> I used the curative rate of propiconazole last fall to solve a pretty nasty brown patch outbreak and it worked great.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How many oz per 1000 did you use? I just did my lawn and did a bit more than 2 oz.
Click to expand...

.73oz/1k sq feet is the curative rate for brown patch. Of course, this is for 41.8% propiconazole, so whatever product you used might have a lower concentration of active ingredient.


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## Belgianbillie

craigdt said:


> Belgianbillie said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> craigdt said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think the important thing to note about the K-State pdf you posted is that its says the homeowner grade formulations of those fungicides are not effective. I assume that to mean the stuff you get at Home Depot.
> 
> But the good liquid concentrate you buy will do the trick if you mix it up at the correct rates.
> 
> I used the curative rate of propiconazole last fall to solve a pretty nasty brown patch outbreak and it worked great.
> 
> 
> 
> How many oz per 1000 did you use? I just did my lawn and did a bit more than 2 oz.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> .73oz/1k sq feet is the curative rate for brown patch. Of course, this is for 41.8% propiconazole, so whatever product you used might have a lower concentration of active ingredient.
Click to expand...

I used slightly more than 2 oz per 1000 of the 14.3% so that comes down to about the same i reckon.


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## fwendt2000

I see most of these post were in June, which I can understand a desease, but I'm seeing this in April. Northern VA, TTTF. I sent in samples to VA Tech before Round 1 this year and they recommended Lime at 90lbs/1k for a pH of 6.1 and break it up in 50lbs increments 1 to 6 months apart. A wise man once said, "Load it up, gag it wide open and run her till she's empty." I applied some Pennington Fast Acting lime at 5lbs/1k on 3/05 and then put down ~30lbs/1k on 03/28 of pelletized Dolomitic Lime along with 8oz/1k each of 0-0-2 MicroGreene and 7-0-0 GreeNeEfFect. This is what it looks like today... HELP! Is this a disease already (LS, GLS, BP, YP), too much lime??? We've had a couple days in the high 70s/low 80s, but majority of is 60/70s and night time temps are still <60. If due to the lime, should I wait it out or try some more GreeNeEfFect for the light dose of N and 6% Iron?


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## g-man

What is this product? Fast acting?



> 30lbs/1k on 03/28 of pelletized Dolomitic Lime


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## fwendt2000

Not fast acting. Just big (blue) box standard dolomitic lime.


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## zackroof

fwendt2000 said:


> I see most of these post were in June, which I can understand a desease, but I'm seeing this in April. Northern VA, TTTF. I sent in samples to VA Tech before Round 1 this year and they recommended Lime at 90lbs/1k for a pH of 6.1 and break it up in 50lbs increments 1 to 6 months apart. A wise man once said, "Load it up, gag it wide open and run her till she's empty." I applied some Pennington Fast Acting lime at 5lbs/1k on 3/05 and then put down ~30lbs/1k on 03/28 of pelletized Dolomitic Lime along with 8oz/1k each of 0-0-2 MicroGreene and 7-0-0 GreeNeEfFect. This is what it looks like today... HELP! Is this a disease already (LS, GLS, BP, YP), too much lime??? We've had a couple days in the high 70s/low 80s, but majority of is 60/70s and night time temps are still <60. If due to the lime, should I wait it out or try some more GreeNeEfFect for the light dose of N and 6% Iron?


Watching this thread as this very same thing happened to me, only in the late fall (I'm in Massachusetts). Had those weird black areas show up after things started yellowing. I also did similar apps similar to you - Green effect, micro green, heavy lime, etc. The black disappeared over the winter, but I was left with some nasty areas - can;t tell if it's from snow mold or from what happened in the fall. So, curious to see what others say. Wonder if it's the lime because I'm due for more now.


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## g-man

@fwendt2000 VA has a great turf pathology lab. Call to see if they are open and send them samples.

It could be too much foliar iron too, but I'm not sure.

https://www.stma.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/11/Turfgrass-Diagnostics-FINAL.pdf


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## Powhatan

fwendt2000 said:


> I see most of these post were in June, which I can understand a desease, but I'm seeing this in April. Northern VA, TTTF. I sent in samples to VA Tech before Round 1 this year and they recommended Lime at 90lbs/1k for a pH of 6.1 and break it up in 50lbs increments 1 to 6 months apart. A wise man once said, "Load it up, gag it wide open and run her till she's empty." I applied some Pennington Fast Acting lime at 5lbs/1k on 3/05 and then put down ~30lbs/1k on 03/28 of pelletized Dolomitic Lime along with 8oz/1k each of 0-0-2 MicroGreene and 7-0-0 GreeNeEfFect. This is what it looks like today... HELP! Is this a disease already (LS, GLS, BP, YP), too much lime??? We've had a couple days in the high 70s/low 80s, but majority of is 60/70s and night time temps are still <60. If due to the lime, should I wait it out or try some more GreeNeEfFect for the light dose of N and 6% Iron?


That looks like net blotch disease to me. Sharpen your mower blade, reduce cut height a little to allow more air flow, and reduce watering if your irrigating.

Submit diseased grass samples to your local extension office and they will forward to the Va Tech disease clinic lab for analysis free of charge - I did that last year.


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## fwendt2000

Thanks all. I finally got around to getting a hold of the VT pathology lab and them returning my call. Due to CV19 they are only accepting commercial samples (screened by digital images first) at the time. They will only take digital images routed through your local extension for residential, so I'll try doing that Monday. My turf seems to be coming through it slowly, but still seems to have some residual damage deeper in the canopy. In regards to sharpening blades... those were brand new toro blades on a new mower, I should have taken them off and cleaned up the factory job. That's been done now.


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## rockinmylawn

fwendt2000 said:


> Thanks all. I finally got around to getting a hold of the VT pathology lab and them returning my call. Due to CV19 they are only accepting commercial samples (screened by digital images first) at the time. They will only take digital images routed through your local extension for residential, so I'll try doing that Monday. My turf seems to be coming through it slowly, but still seems to have some residual damage deeper in the canopy. In regards to sharpening blades... those were brand new toro blades on a new mower, I should have taken them off and cleaned up the factory job. That's been done now.


Will be very interested to hear what they can tell just by looking at pics.

I will tell you that I have had the same issues each spring -last 5 years- & there will always be a hint of thiness to your grass even as the spring green-up moves its way through your lawn.

I didn't have it analyzed & some thin areas in the past eventually succumbed to weeds that I had to fight off with a too early spring drop of post emergent.


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