# Need help thickening lawn on a steep hill



## Nomo (Jun 6, 2017)

Hello Guys,

I've heard good things about you guys from Grass Daddy so I decided to join.

I have a TTTF lawn and have a huge hill on one side of my lawn. What I've noticed is that along the steepest part of the hill, the grass never seems to thicken as much as the flatter parts of the lawn. When the heat of summer comes, the hill really takes a beating from the sun all day and since the roots of the grass don't have a lot of shade, the grass is literally cooked by the sun and gets even thinner.

This year, I've gotten rid of Trugreen as I had them for 8 years and my lawn hadn't improved and have started doing things for myself. I've gone as organic as possible using Milorganite and Ringer Lawn restore for fertilizer and from time to use, I throw in a little Revive lawn conditioner.

Also forgot to mention that I'm also fighting a Bermuda infestation with Ornamec. Any ideas you guys have on that would greatly appreciated also.

Sorry to be so long-winded.


----------



## j4c11 (Apr 30, 2017)

Welcome to TLF!

An issue with hills is going to be water runoff, especially if you have clay. It may be beneficial to apply a surfactant to help water go into the soil instead of rolling off downhill. You can try Lesco Moisture Manager(can get that from SiteOne) or cheap baby shampoo from Walmart(the one without any additives, oils etc.) at 3oz per thousand every 2 weeks.

You should to add triclopyr to the Ornamec for more effective Bermuda control. Here's some information on that:
http://lawniac.com/eliminating-bermuda-from-your-lawn
Fluazifop will injure/kill fescue if applied when temps are high. Unfortunately, high temps is when Bermuda grows, so losses may be unavoidable.


----------



## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

So my hill had similar problems. The biggest issue is runoff. When it rains the water has a tendency to go down the hill rather than the soil. This also can wash away that fertilizer.

If its already looking drought stressed then you might want to find a pro grade soil surfactant. I used aquaduct. Its for localized dry spot.

If its OK right now you can use dish soap or baby shampoo. Ill go by weekly and apply some until it looks like water soaks in instead of bead up on the soil.


----------



## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

Ha! Too fast for me hehe what he said


----------



## Nomo (Jun 6, 2017)

Thanks guys. I have a small bottle of actual suffocant that I use when I apply Ornamec. Is that ok to use alone instead of the shampoo? I also spike my Ornamec with ortho weed b gone for it's triclopyr. Yes, I do have clay.


----------



## Hall (May 5, 2017)

The thin grass area on the hill needs to be over seeded. Rutgers Ag extension recommends core aeration then seeding then back raking. I have followed there recommendation and have found the seed drops into the core holes and sprouts beautifully. I have a slight hill and it is clearly evident the new grass sprouts in the core holes


----------



## Nomo (Jun 6, 2017)

Yes, I do overseed the hill. In fact the entire yard..in the Fall, but each year it seems to fall behind the rest of the lawn.


----------



## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Nomo said:


> ...I have a small bottle of actual suffocant that I use when I apply Ornamec. Is that ok to use alone instead of the shampoo?


GrassDaddy was talking about a soil surfactant, which is not the same as a surfactant that is used as an adjuvant in an herbicide application. A little confusing, I know. Welcome to TLF! :thumbup:


----------



## LIgrass (May 26, 2017)

You could also try topdressing with light coats of peat moss. That stuff holds an incredible amount of moisture and could help the hill make it through summer. Definitely use it to help hold your seeds in place if you decide to reseed in the future. I'd also agree with Hall that extreme hills should benefit from core aeration (although I hate the idea of bringing weed seeds to the surface). I'd look into slice seeding as another option.


----------



## Nomo (Jun 6, 2017)

Yes, I have thought about slice/slit seeding. The problem is that I don't know how well that works in purely clay soil.

Anyone know if Lesco moisture manager is any different than Revive?


----------



## Hall (May 5, 2017)

All of the latest information on amending clay soil is to add organic material. Rutgers Ag recommends top dressing before core aeration, the back raking will work the organic material with the seed into the holes. I would use peat moss, I made the mistake of getting the free leaf compost from the town. Never again, should have realized the average lawn is full of weeds


----------



## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

Nomo said:


> Anyone know if Lesco moisture manager is any different than Revive?


I think they are VERY similar products and probably do the same thing.


----------



## Nomo (Jun 6, 2017)

I topdressed the areas where I had been fighting Bermuda last year with mushroom compost. I wanted to do my whole lawn but it's pretty big. I even looked into the compost that could be applied by spreader but it was wayyy too expensive for my size lawn. I may hire a few kids to help me spread mushroom compost over my entire lawn this year when overseeding.


----------



## Nomo (Jun 6, 2017)

Mightyquinn said:


> Nomo said:
> 
> 
> > Anyone know if Lesco moisture manager is any different than Revive?
> ...


I am thinking the same.


----------

