# HOC Bar on a Budget!



## Redtenchu

*HOC Bar on a Budget! *

If you are purchasing _or_ planning to purchase a Reel mower, you'll want some kind of HOC Bar for your new purchase. This tool allows you to check your mowers HOC. This is very important, as you want to ensure both sides of your Reel/bed knife are at the same level before cutting any turf.

There are some very nice professional bars available for purchase, but most start around $100.00+ *if* you can find one... Most new Greens mowers come with a basic HOC Bar like the one pictured below.









The HOC bar above inspired me to make one myself. I went to my local hardware store and purchased a Mending plate, a couple nuts and a large flat headed bolt all costing less than $5 USD. 









Using the holes already in the mending plate I attached one of the nuts using some epoxy. The bolt was threaded on to ensure the nut didn't move while the epoxy was curing.









Now, to ensure the bolt can be "jammed" in place for accurate measurements I used the second nut against the first to create a tight fit.









Choose your desired HOC and measure from the Plate to the bottom of the bolt head. 

















You'll lay the mower back, and place the HOC bar flat against the front roller (or wheel) and the rear Drum (or wheels). Adjust the Mowers HOC as needed to achieve your goals! :green: 









*A few extra tips: *
_Be sure to buy a mending plate or other material that's the correct length for your mower. Buying a mending plate too short will result in inaccurate HOC measurements. 
There are many material options out the for the Bar, be sure to choose one that is firm, and has little to no flex._


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## Redtenchu

I'd like to add, using a die set to thread your own hole into the bar is a more secure and reliable way to set the HOC bolt in place. J_Nick has done this for his HOC Bar. I'll definitely be following his lead, and using a die to cut out some threads in my HOC bar sometime in the future.


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## J_nick

Using Red's advice I made my own out of an old piece of angle iron I had laying around. I tapped the hole I drilled so I wouldn't have to mess with the epoxy. Works flawlessly on my greens mower as well as the TruCut H-20. I do have to flip it around though as the bedknife placement is different in between the rollers.


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## Ware

For those with a groomer attachment, I ran across a variation of this style HOC bar here. It's the same concept, but adds an additional bolt head spaced appropriately to engage the bottom edge of the groomer blades. The groomer depth (relative to HOC) would be the distance from the HOC bar to the bottom of the bedknife bolt minus the distance from the HOC bar to the top of the groomer bolt.


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## OState_Patriot

I recently made the transition from a cal trimmer to a Jacobson greens mower w/groomer. I have my HOC set at .400 and groomer set at .100, using groomer every mow. What is everyone using as their groomer height? Every time I mow I get alot of un-cut runners lifted on top of my Bermuda. Maybe I need to adjust to only 50% HOC? Thoughts? I can post pics tonight.

Thanks.


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## Mightyquinn

I have mine set at .125"(50% HOC) but I'm still waiting for my lawn to completely fill in all the way. If you are lifting stolons, you may be too low.


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## Iriasj2009

OState_Patriot said:


> I recently made the transition from a cal trimmer to a Jacobson greens mower w/groomer. I have my HOC set at .400 and groomer set at .100, using groomer every mow. What is everyone using as their groomer height? Every time I mow I get alot of un-cut runners lifted on top of my Bermuda. Maybe I need to adjust to only 50% HOC? Thoughts? I can post pics tonight.
> 
> Thanks.


I have it set at .15" and my HOC is at .3". Like mighty said, yours might be too low. I tried lowering it but like you, I started pulling too many runners. I think 50% below HOC is great. I'm sure you can push it lower but I think it also depends on if you verticutted and thinned out the canopy to begin with. Have In mind that I have celebration Bermuda and it is a courser grass than tifway.


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## bretben55

I did the same thing last year, after seeing the simple setup from the Toro manual. Mine is a leftover aluminum cross beam from a lawn chair, threaded with a small bolt and nut. Works great.


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## Redtenchu

That's great Bretben55!


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## lagerman72

I'm going to have to build one of these quickly. This was me today struggling using a level and some calipers to verify bench HOC. 
For some reason no matter how I rotate it, it won't save. Sorry for the head tilt :wacko:


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## Redtenchu

LagerMan, Measure from your rear drum to the front roller to ensure the base/mending plate is the correct length for your unit.


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## Ware

Redtenchu said:


> LagerMan, Measure from your rear drum to the front roller to ensure the base/mending plate is the correct length for your unit.


Correction, measure front roller to rear roller on the JD 220E.


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## Redtenchu

Ware said:


> Redtenchu said:
> 
> 
> 
> LagerMan, Measure from your rear drum to the front roller to ensure the base/mending plate is the correct length for your unit.
> 
> 
> 
> Correction, measure front roller to rear roller on the JD 220E.
Click to expand...

:lol:


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## lagerman72

Redtenchu said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Redtenchu said:
> 
> 
> 
> LagerMan, Measure from your rear drum to the front roller to ensure the base/mending plate is the correct length for your unit.
> 
> 
> 
> Correction, measure front roller to rear roller on the JD 220E.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> :lol:
Click to expand...

  just to make sure though, cutting head rollers only, right??


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## Ware

Yes - for mowers like the JD 220E and Toro Flex 21. A standard mower like a Greensmaster 1000 doesn't have the rear roller on the cutting unit, so the HoC bar must span from the front roller to the rear drum drive.


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## Ware

Another cool thing about the JD 220E is once you know each side is set to the same HOC, that linkage takes care of raising/lowering the HOC of both sides at the same time. Each side of my Greensmaster has to be adjusted independently, every time.


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## Redtenchu

lagerman72 said:


> just to make sure though, cutting head rollers only, right??


Yes, Ware is correct! I forgot your 220e has a Flex style head.


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## fp_911

Going to try and build one of these because I want to raise the HOC on my GM1000 slightly. How long should the mending bar be? It looks like about 12" right?


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## dfw_pilot

For a GM1000, don't go less than 18 inches.


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## fp_911

dfw_pilot said:


> For a GM1000, don't go less than 18 inches.


Perfect, heading to the hardware store tomorrow - thanks!


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## Colonel K0rn

Not to be a thread necromancer, but I made one using an old bed bar, and a carriage bolt/wingnut. Super easy, and definitely long enough to go from the roller to drum.


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## Redtenchu

I like it!


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## Ware

Here is a great video tutorial courtesy of @Reel Low Dad. If you have not subscribed to this guy, you are missing out.


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## joeker

what size bar flat did everyone end up going with? I'm looking at some on Home Depot's website right now and I feel that 1/8" is too flimsy and 1/4" is too thick; is 3/16" just right?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-2-in-x-36-in-Plain-Steel-Flat-Bar-with-3-16-in-Thick-801867/204225719


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## Jrich

Made my own HOC Bar(s) based off of @Redtenchu's original post and @Reel Low Dad 's video.

It was pretty simple, and I am pretty happy how with how it turned out. I used a 3 ft 1/8" Thick flat bar from Lowe's and a 3/8" Bolt and Nuts.


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## Redtenchu

Nice work @Jrich. Be sure you don't allow the bar to flex during your check. Flex of the bar will cause a faulty measurement.


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## g-man

^+1 An L bracket might be even better to avoid flexing.


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## Art_Vandelay

1/4" aluminum with stainless carriage bolt. Aluminum is threaded too. I have $6.48 invested


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## joerob2211

HOC bar for reel and groomer.


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## stepper

Should do the job. Thanks guys!


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## xraydesigns

Guys I read every post on this HOC subject and is very appreciatiave of the info. I then went ahead and did mine with a slight modification. Works like a charm and is extremely sturdy. I used washers as my spacer and each washer is 1/16. It means therefore that I dont need to use a ruler to measure my HOC. I can just add or subtract washers to lower or raise my hoc. Still working on a suitable decal


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## jha4aamu

xraydesigns said:


> Guys I read every post on this HOC subject and is very appreciatiave of the info. I then went ahead and did mine with a slight modification. Works like a charm and is extremely sturdy. I used washers as my spacer and each washer is 1/16. It means therefore that I dont need to use a ruler to measure my HOC. I can just add or subtract washers to lower or raise my hoc. Still working on a suitable decal


What type of material did you use for your bar and where did you buy it from? I've searched all ther big box stores but cant find a mending plate 18" long


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## driver_7

@jha4aamu, I found a display of various steel and aluminum at my local Home Depot near the chain and rope section in hardware. I got a 36" piece of plain steel and cut it down to 21" with my Saws-all blade, it cut nicely. It wasn't hardened steel, pretty soft actually. I dropped a couple drops of motor oil/2-stroke oil on it when I drilled the hole through it.

This, or something similar to it.


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## jha4aamu

717driver said:


> @jha4aamu, I found a display of various steel and aluminum at my local Home Depot near the chain and rope section in hardware. I got a 36" piece of plain steel and cut it down to 21" with my Saws-all blade, it cut nicely. It wasn't hardened steel, pretty soft actually. I dropped a couple drops of motor oil/2-stroke oil on it when I drilled the hole through it.
> 
> This, or something similar to it.


thanks. i had been actually looking at this but I didn't know how difficult it would be to cut it down to size and drill the hole. ill have to pick one up tomorrow


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## xraydesigns

@jha4aamu https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-2-in-x-36-in-Plain-Steel-Flat-Bar-with-1-8-in-Thick-801807/204225718?cm_mmc=Shopping%7CG%7CBase%7CD25H%7C25-4_BUILDERS_HARDWARE%7CNA%7CLIA%7C71700000044822926%7C58700004636006010%7C92700039037730264&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIo_vXptPi4QIVkLbACh0xvAYuEAQYAiABEgKT8fD_BwE is exactly what i used. I bought a 36" long plate and cut it. I used a angle grinder to cut it and file the edges to my liking. Going to build a second one just because i have the material.


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## Brackin4au

Things are happening.....




Yes, I mixed and applied the j-b weld with a unicorn straw... come at me bro!


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## driver_7

@Brackin4au, looking at the other versions in this thread (my own build included) do you want the bolt to be applied from the other side? Depending on your HOC, I'm worried that nut and epoxy might interfere with the bedknife when measuring. I'm probably just overthinking it though.


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## The Anti-Rebel

717driver said:


> @Brackin4au, looking at the other versions in this thread (my own build included) do you want the bolt to be applied from the other side? Depending on your HOC, I'm worried that nut and epoxy might interfere with the bedknife when measuring. I'm probably just overthinking it though.


Yeah but he can just thread the bolt from the other side.


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## driver_7

The Anti-Rebel said:


> 717driver said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Brackin4au, looking at the other versions in this thread (my own build included) do you want the bolt to be applied from the other side? Depending on your HOC, I'm worried that nut and epoxy might interfere with the bedknife when measuring. I'm probably just overthinking it though.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah but he can just thread the bolt from the other side.
Click to expand...

Ha, that's true. Ignore me today, I shouldn't post early in the morning after working until 3am. :bandit: :lol:


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## Brackin4au

717driver said:


> The Anti-Rebel said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 717driver said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Brackin4au, looking at the other versions in this thread (my own build included) do you want the bolt to be applied from the other side? Depending on your HOC, I'm worried that nut and epoxy might interfere with the bedknife when measuring. I'm probably just overthinking it though.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah but he can just thread the bolt from the other side.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ha, that's true. Ignore me today, I shouldn't post early in the morning after working until 3am. :bandit: :lol:
Click to expand...

Haha yeah, I didn't put much thought into it since I can just thread it either direction. I just didn't want it to move while the epoxy was curing, so I kept it on the top and ran the bolt through... good catch though ha


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## bigmks

Brackin4au said:


> Things are happening.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I mixed and applied the j-b weld with a unicorn straw... come at me bro!


I'm sure you have at least one daughter lol. Daddy did you see my unicorn 😐😐


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## Brackin4au

bigmks said:


> Brackin4au said:
> 
> 
> 
> Things are happening.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I mixed and applied the j-b weld with a unicorn straw... come at me bro!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you have at least one daughter lol. Daddy did you see my unicorn 😐😐
Click to expand...

Bingo haha. She hasn't missed it... leftover from her birthday party last year haha


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## ctrav

xraydesigns said:


> Guys I read every post on this HOC subject and is very appreciatiave of the info. I then went ahead and did mine with a slight modification. Works like a charm and is extremely sturdy. I used washers as my spacer and each washer is 1/16. It means therefore that I dont need to use a ruler to measure my HOC. I can just add or subtract washers to lower or raise my hoc. Still working on a suitable decal


Nicely done...


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## driver_7

I've used two different epoxy brands both have failed after light use. Most recently I used JB Weld Original Cold Weld and it failed after using it twice, the nut separated from the steel bar without any force exerted on it. Which epoxy should I go to next?


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## MasterMech

Instead of epoxy holding a nut to the steel, why not get a tap, cut a thread in the bar, especially if it's .250" or better. Then all you need is a jam nut.


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## Brackin4au

717driver said:


> I've used two different epoxy brands both have failed after light use. Most recently I used JB Weld Original Cold Weld and it failed after using it twice, the nut separated from the steel bar without any force exerted on it. Which epoxy should I go to next?


I've had the same problem. Frustrating. I've just been holding it all flush with the bottom of the steel for now, until I get it fixed again haha. Tricky though doing that without slightly bending the 1/8" steel I used. Definitely going to have to revamp my whole set up.


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## dfw_pilot

Brackin4au said:


> Yes, I mixed and applied the j-b weld with a unicorn straw... come at me bro!


 :lol:



717driver said:


> I shouldn't post early in the morning after working until 3am.


 :lol:

3am lets you off the hook easy, haha.


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## driver_7

dfw_pilot said:


> Brackin4au said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I mixed and applied the j-b weld with a unicorn straw... come at me bro!
> 
> 
> 
> :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> 717driver said:
> 
> 
> 
> I shouldn't post early in the morning after working until 3am.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> :lol:
> 
> 3am lets you off the hook easy, haha.
Click to expand...

I don't know how you do what you do. I'm a terrible overnight person. I'm hesitating to swap fleets only because everything except my plane and the -88 do all-nighters. Haha!


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## ctrav

Headed to Home Depot to get the supplies to try and make a replica of this...







Got the digital gauge from here (Im sure its not super calibrated but then again its $20)...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C9MZ858/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## xraydesigns

@ctrav Thanks.


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## ctrav

I was going to make my HOC bar but I need to order anger part I was not aware of so I just made a basic one that is set somewhere between 0.72 and 0.80. I know its a wide range but I used a ruler and that's the best I could determine which works for me since I know I scalped at 0.50. Now my HOC will be below 1" with is a great start until I either get the cheap digital I bought or break down and spend the $200+ for a real gauge...

In the mean time I will take my homemade bar into Pro Turf and have it measured to see just how well I did. I really like having spent less than $35


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## jha4aamu

for those that have made one of these HOC bars, how easy is it to change your height w/ the bolt? does the bolt move freely enough to change the HOC but still firm enough to hold in place when measuring?


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## ctrav

jha4aamu said:


> for those that have made one of these HOC bars, how easy is it to change your height w/ the bolt? does the bolt move freely enough to change the HOC but still firm enough to hold in place when measuring?


I built mine based on the HOC I wanted to use which is close to .75". All I have to do is remove a bolt (players and drill) and now its set close to .50". If I want to get closer to 1" then I add a bolt instead of subtracting one. This way things stay consistent for my first year of reel mowing. I see where some folks will have a HOC of .6" or some odd number and that's fine for a purest but Im just learning to use the reel mower so I like numbers close to 1/2, 3/4, 1 or 1 1/4". If I'm "technically off" by .10"then Im good with that. If I choose to stay on this reel mowing journey next year then maybe I will put more effort into building one or invest in a better one.

I made the HOC bar yesterday and went down to to the turf store today to buy one from them which was a basic HOC bar for $40. When they saw mine they said there was no need to spend money so Im happy.

The bolt I used is 2" and 1/4" round so I used a drill bit smaller than 1/4" and the bolt basically self set. All said and done I was just playing around and got lucky with how it turned out. So ask yourself what is your planned HOC, what is your scalp HOC and if you have to go higher due to really warm weather, vacation or winter protection what's that HOC? It was fun doing it and I may have even learned a thing or two.

Hope this helps @jha4aamu...


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## TonyC

Maybe I'm under-thinking this, but a simple piece of hardwood and a screw seems to be about all that is needed. The screw can be adjusted in or out easy enough for fine adjustments.

*5/8" here*



*Double Sided* - I have two screws, one on each side set to the two common heights I use.


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## ctrav

TonyC said:


> Maybe I'm under-thinking this, but a simple piece of hardwood and a screw seems to be about all that is needed. The screw can be adjusted in or out easy enough for fine adjustments.
> 
> *5/8" here*
> 
> 
> 
> *Double Sided* - I have two screws, one on each side set to the two common heights I use.


I like it! Very simple just have to make sure the screw doesn't move around when setting and adjust...


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## SGrabs33

@TonyC how simple! I guess the fact that the wood could have some bow to it could cause an issue with exact measurements. That's not going to stop me from making one! As long as I know that both sides are even I'm good :thumbup: thanks.


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## TonyC

ctrav said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I'm under-thinking this, but a simple piece of hardwood and a screw seems to be about all that is needed. The screw can be adjusted in or out easy enough for fine adjustments.
> 
> *5/8" here*
> 
> 
> 
> *Double Sided* - I have two screws, one on each side set to the two common heights I use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like it! Very simple just have to make sure the screw doesn't move around when setting and adjust...
Click to expand...

Drill an undersized pilot hole. The screw will be VERY tight. It won't move, I promise.


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## TonyC

SGrabs33 said:


> @TonyC how simple! I guess the fact that the wood could have some bow to it could cause an issue with exact measurements. That's not going to stop me from making one! As long as I know that both sides are even I'm good :thumbup: thanks.


You could stand on that board. It's dried and aged oak from an old cabinet. There is no give or play in a hardwood like that.

Thousandths of an inch are important for a green "maybe". For an unlevel yard, not so much. Spend the money on sand first.

Cheers!


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## TNTurf

TonyC said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @TonyC how simple! I guess the fact that the wood could have some bow to it could cause an issue with exact measurements. That's not going to stop me from making one! As long as I know that both sides are even I'm good :thumbup: thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> You could stand on that board. It's dried and aged oak from an old cabinet. There is no give or play in a hardwood like that.
> 
> Thousandths of an inch are important for a green "maybe". For an unlevel yard, not so much. Spend the money on sand first.
> 
> Cheers!
Click to expand...

I have a bunch of that so just made one, thanks for the idea. I had wood in mind as a woodworker but I was not sure how accurate it would be but you reminded me I had old oak runners in my scrap bin. Checked and strait and have been since at least the 60's from the cabinet they came from. I knew I was making one but I was looking around my shop for the right piece of metal to drill and tap.


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## Pamboys09

TonyC said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I'm under-thinking this, but a simple piece of hardwood and a screw seems to be about all that is needed. The screw can be adjusted in or out easy enough for fine adjustments.
> 
> *5/8" here*
> 
> 
> 
> *Double Sided* - I have two screws, one on each side set to the two common heights I use.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I like it! Very simple just have to make sure the screw doesn't move around when setting and adjust...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Drill an undersized pilot hole. The screw will be VERY tight. It won't move, I promise.
Click to expand...

Love it, i made one also! Thanks!


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## g-man

I use the same approach as @TonyC. I hardly change my hoc so it works. I used a straight 2 x 4 with the screw on the 2in (1.5in) side. Super rigid. I do use a caliper to measure.


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## Gibby

@Ware can you add this to https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1075 ? Took me a little bit to find it again.


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## Ware

@Gibby done.


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## Harts

Finally getting around to posting this. I finished my HOC bar a few weeks ago.

*Materials:*
3/16" Metal Flat Bar - purchased at Lowes
10/24 2" Machine Screw
10/24 Nuts with nylon insert
10/24 Wing nut
JB Weld epoxy
Tremclad Spray Paint - Fire Red

I also bought a die and tap to thread the hole, but it wasn't a great experience. So I opted to use the epoxy to set the nut in place.

Setup was simple:

Drill 3/16" hole > Insert the screw, thread the nut until it is snug against the bar > Then I placed a rubber washer over the nut and tightened everything down with a wing nut. Then I used thin artist paint brushes to apply the epoxy - I'm kind of OCD and I wanted it to look clean and uniform.

I let it cure for 72 hours while I was at the cottage for the weekend.


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## Pamboys09

ctrav said:


> Headed to Home Depot to get the supplies to try and make a replica of this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got the digital gauge from here (Im sure its not super calibrated but then again its $20)...
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C9MZ858/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


@ctrav how long is this bar?


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## jsams22

Just bought a 36" aluminum angle bar from Home Depot. I would recommend going this route over the flat bar to make sure there is no bend in the bar.

Will post pictures when I have it finished. Dont think I will top @Harts red though! Looks amazing!


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## Harts

jsams22 said:


> Just bought a 36" aluminum angle bar from Home Depot. I would recommend going this route over the flat bar to make sure there is no bend in the bar.
> 
> Will post pictures when I have it finished. Dont think I will top @Harts red though! Looks amazing!


I can't wait to see your finished piece!


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## jsams22

Well here is my Version 1.

I went with the analog type dial. Spent TOO much time fabricating to get the analog dial to zero out. I could spend a little more for the digital dial and zero it out with a push of a button.

Version 2 with the digital dial coming soon. Might throw a couple up on the marketplace haha.


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## Ware

jsams22 said:


> Well here is my Version 1.
> 
> I went with the analog type dial. Spent TOO much time fabricating to get the analog dial to zero out. I could spend a little more for the digital dial and zero it out with a push of a button.
> 
> Version 2 with the digital dial coming soon. Might throw a couple up on the marketplace haha.


Nice! :thumbup:


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## Airbender

jsams22 said:


> Might throw a couple up on the marketplace haha.


Damn, this looks good. :thumbup:

Also, quite likely many would be interested.


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## Jeff20

I'll be your first customer.


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## outlaw8483

Shout out to @Reel Low Dad for the sweet tutorial. I decided to add a little flair to mine thanks to my wife's vinyl machine !


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## krusej23

Are you guys that are using JB Weld on the nut, is it holding after a few adjustments? I tried using Gorilla Glue Epoxy and that didn't hold at all.


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