# Mobil 1 in Lawn mower



## lawnlover (Nov 8, 2020)

Hello everybody!

I am under the assumption that Mobil 1 makes a good product. My question is, which Mobil 1 oil would be better for a walk behind mower: M1 10w-30 or M1 high mileage 10w-30? This mower has seen a lot of usage, and I was wondering if running the high mileage oil would hurt anything.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

I use Mobil 1 in all my equipment and I can't see either one doing any damage.


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## lawnlover (Nov 8, 2020)

Mightyquinn said:


> I use Mobil 1 in all my equipment and I can't see either one doing any damage.


Thank you for sharing your experience, Mightyquinn!
Do you use the regular synthetic, or the high milleage version?


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

I just use the regular synthetic but I don't have any "old" engines in the grand scheme of things, not sure how much extra help the high milage stuff would help an older engine.

BTW, Welcome to TLF!!!


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## lawnlover (Nov 8, 2020)

Mightyquinn said:


> I just use the regular synthetic but I don't have any "old" engines in the grand scheme of things, not sure how much extra help the high milage stuff would help an older engine.
> 
> BTW, Welcome to TLF!!!


Thanks! I don't know how much it would help either, haha. I think it has extra seal conditioners, cleans up some sludge, has better wear additives, and slightly thicker at operating temp. Not sure if that would matter using it in a lawnmower, or not. I'm sure a lot of people don't even bother to change their lawn mower oil.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

I change mine once a year in the Spring!!! I would say most of us here DO change the oil on our equipment on a regular basis.


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## lawnlover (Nov 8, 2020)

Mightyquinn said:


> I change mine once a year in the Spring!!! I would say most of us here DO change the oil on our equipment on a regular basis.


Yep I agree. I like to change my oil after the last mow of the year, and I also change the spark plug and air filter, and give the mower a good wash, and then I pack it up for the year.


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## StarRaider (Jun 29, 2019)

I use the Kawasaki oil in my Kawi engine.... there is a thread on another site about this oil, it has more zinc and meets API SL + JASO MA specifications which is supposed to be good in air cooled engines according to a tribologist that posted the info and I have known from other forums for a long long time. Not that there is anything wrong with Mobil1 oil, I use it in my auto engines including my diesel that is approaching 373k miles.


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## StarRaider (Jun 29, 2019)

Here is the post:

_The reason that the Kawasaki K-tech 10W-40 burned less than that Mobil Super 10W-40 is simply because the Kawasaki oil is MUCH more viscous. Remember that the numbers on the bottle simply represent a range that the actual viscosities fall under. For reference review the SAE J-300 chart to see what the actual viscosities are for each oil. The 10W part of the label tells us that the oil must be tested at -25ºc and it can be no more viscous than 7000 cP (a dynamic MRV test). The -40 part of the labels tells us that the oil must fall between 12.5cSt - <16.3cSt when measured at 100ºc. I was unable to find a product data sheet on the Kawasaki oil but the Kinematic viscosity of the Mobil was 15.6cSt @ 100ºc. But here's the HUGE difference in the two products - the kinematic viscosity of the Kawasaki 10W-40 oil is 151.1cSt @ 40ºc while the Mobil 10W-40 is 113cSt @ 40ºc. The same numbers on the bottle but hugely different true viscosities of product.

The Kawasaki oil can also have up to 3 times the ZDDP anti-wear as the Mobil automotive oil._


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

I'm nowhere near an expert on motors, but I used Mobil 1 extended performance on my latest oil change this past year in both mowers. No complaints yet. I used to use the conventional oils.


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## jtuber (Sep 15, 2020)

I used mobil 1 regular synthetic oil for my 17 years old craftsman tractor. This year it was consuming oil quickly so I opened up the engine and replaced the head gasket. Nice and shiny in there. I dont replace my oil regularly. Cant remenwhen was the last time I replaced my oil b4 this year.


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## lawnlover (Nov 8, 2020)

jtuber said:


> I used mobil 1 regular synthetic oil for my 17 years old craftsman tractor. This year it was consuming oil quickly so I opened up the engine and replaced the head gasket. Nice and shiny in there. I dont replace my oil regularly. Cant remenwhen was the last time I replaced my oil b4 this year.


Wow! Nice to know. I am a little worried that the M1 10w-30 is too thin compared to some other synthetic oils.


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## Lust4Lawn (Aug 4, 2020)

If you really want to get into motor oil, check out www.bobistheoilguy.com and they have a small engine section on the forum there.

I think if you are running the correct viscosity for your applicaiton that it's hard to go wrong with M1. With that said I run Shell Rotella T5 10W-30 semi-synthetic in all of my 4-stroke OPE with the exception of my snowblower which I run M1 5W-30 due to the colder operating environment.

In my 2 stroke Stihl blower, hedge trimmer and string trimmer I run Amsoil Saber since it has the abilty to run a very lean mix (80-100:1 ratio) but I usually mix at ~60-80:1 in most cases.


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## lawnlover (Nov 8, 2020)

Lust4Lawn said:


> If you really want to get into motor oil, check out www.bobistheoilguy.com and they have a small engine section on the forum there.
> 
> I think if you are running the correct viscosity for your applicaiton that it's hard to go wrong with M1. With that said I run Shell Rotella T5 10W-30 semi-synthetic in all of my 4-stroke OPE with the exception of my snowblower which I run M1 5W-30 due to the colder operating environment.
> 
> In my 2 stroke Stihl blower, hedge trimmer and string trimmer I run Amsoil Saber since it has the abilty to run a very lean mix (80-100:1 ratio) but I usually mix at ~60-80:1 in most cases.


Good advice! I don't like bobistheoilguy personally. I think I'll switch to m1 10w-30 when I winterize equipment.


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## Lust4Lawn (Aug 4, 2020)

lawnlover said:


> Good advice! I don't like bobistheoilguy personally. I think I'll switch to m1 10w-30 when I winterize equipment.


I hear you on the BITOG note. BITOG certainly can be too much info and way to much emphasis on elemental compositions. People there will hang their hats on something like titanium or zinc PPM levels even though different formulations have better overall test results IRL. Sound a little like here sometimes, right?


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## Oneacer (Sep 27, 2020)

I use a Full Synthetic 5W30 in all my equipment, new and old, summer and winter ... everything runs great ....


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## lawnlover (Nov 8, 2020)

Oneacer said:


> I use a Full Synthetic 5W30 in all my equipment, new and old, summer and winter ... everything runs great ....


Nice! I think I'm going to use the M1 10-30 Hm since it has better anti wear additives and since my mower has a lot of hours. I contacted Mobil 1 and they said I could use the HM version in my lawn mower.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

If you are really wanting to use the "best" oils in your small engines, consider that small engines are still very dissimilar from a modern automotive engine. What may be excellent for your twin-turbo DOHC 9000 rpm sports car, is not necessarily the best for a $300 small engine. But even an oil that may not be the "best" is likely plenty good enough.

Modern auto engines have roller valvetrains, tight machining tolerances, smooth/treated bearing surfaces, special considerations for emissions equipment, etc...

Many small engines are either splash-lube or only partial pressure lube still. Machined bearing surfaces vs replaceable, and relatively loose tolerances. In addition, most are air-cooled which typically elevates the temperatures the oil is exposed too. I've not see a roller valvetrain in small engines yet either. Most are mechanical flat-tappet lifters or hydraulic flats as is the case with some Kohlers. Lots of sliding contact still in these engines. Small engines are still carbureted for the most part, or have wet manifold injection systems. This means more fuel contamination as well over auto engines, so change interval probably has the single biggest effect on longevity.

So what does all that mean? Oils high in additives like ZDDP or MoS2 that resist oxidation and flow well in cooler temps (startup) generally work well in small engines. All of the major engine manufacturers sell self-branded oil, and a few companies offer small engine-specific synthetics. I wouldn't second guess recommended viscosities either. You will gain nothing by running straight 30wt over a 5w or 10w30.


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## lawnlover (Nov 8, 2020)

MasterMech said:


> If you are really wanting to use the "best" oils in your small engines, consider that small engines are still very dissimilar from a modern automotive engine. What may be excellent for your twin-turbo DOHC 9000 rpm sports car, is not necessarily the best for a $300 small engine. But even an oil that may not be the "best" is likely plenty good enough.
> 
> Modern auto engines have roller valvetrains, tight machining tolerances, smooth/treated bearing surfaces, special considerations for emissions equipment, etc...
> 
> ...


I've seen some of the analysis of the Briggs and stratton oils - nothing impressive. A lot of people will go crazy worrying about ZDDP levels in OPE, but when oil manufacturers reduced ZDDP, they compensated with other anti wear additives. I'm gonna use M1 HM 10w-30 and sleep well at night. I am not trying to be mean or anything, just writing based on my experiences and things I have read on the internet.


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## lawnlover (Nov 8, 2020)

MasterMech said:


> If you are really wanting to use the "best" oils in your small engines, consider that small engines are still very dissimilar from a modern automotive engine. What may be excellent for your twin-turbo DOHC 9000 rpm sports car, is not necessarily the best for a $300 small engine. But even an oil that may not be the "best" is likely plenty good enough.
> 
> Modern auto engines have roller valvetrains, tight machining tolerances, smooth/treated bearing surfaces, special considerations for emissions equipment, etc...
> 
> ...


I've seen some of the analysis of the Briggs and stratton oils - nothing impressive. A lot of people will go crazy worrying about ZDDP levels in OPE, but when oil manufacturers reduced ZDDP, they compensated with other anti wear additives. I'm gonna use M1 HM 10w-30 and sleep well at night. I am not trying to be mean or anything, just writing based on my experiences and things I have read on the internet.


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## jtuber (Sep 15, 2020)

The recommended oil for my craftsman tractor is straight single grade 30 but I put in M1 5w 30 because sometimes I have to mow in late October/early November and the temperature could be cold. Syn 5w 30 helps starting up the tractor easier. Definitely go with 5w 30 or even 0w 30 if my tractor doubles up as a snowblower too, but it doesn't. I used to have a craftsman self propelled mower and I also used M1 synthetic oil. No oil related issues. So you will be fine with M1 synthetic, regular or high mileage.


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## lawnlover (Nov 8, 2020)

jtuber said:


> The recommended oil for my craftsman tractor is straight single grade 30 but I put in M1 5w 30 because sometimes I have to mow in late October/early November and the temperature could be cold. Syn 5w 30 helps starting up the tractor easier. Definitely go with 5w 30 or even 0w 30 if my tractor doubles up as a snowblower too, but it doesn't. I used to have a craftsman self propelled mower and I also used M1 synthetic oil. No oil related issues. So you will be fine with M1 synthetic, regular or high mileage.


Thanks


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## JERSEY (Sep 9, 2018)

If your budget concious, the walmart synthetic is a excellent oil
I use it in all my cars-except race car.

I use 5w30 in all my small engines.


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## lawnlover (Nov 8, 2020)

JERSEY said:


> If your budget concious, the walmart synthetic is a excellent oil
> I use it in all my cars-except race car.
> 
> I use 5w30 in all my small engines.


You are right! That stuff is good. I am gonna buy some of the Supertech HM 10w-30 next time I'm there.


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## Deadlawn (Sep 8, 2020)

So what is the difference between high mileage oil and not other than differences in viscosity? Last time I bought oil, all of the 10W-30 and 10W-40 Mobil 1 oils were marketed as high mileage.

Looking at my manuals, I decided on a purchase based on what was recommended for the temperatures I normally operate at. I use 10W-30 in my gas lawn mower and leaf blower and use 0W-30 in my snow blower.


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## lawnlover (Nov 8, 2020)

Deadlawn said:


> So what is the difference between high mileage oil and not other than differences in viscosity? Last time I bought oil, all of the 10W-30 and 10W-40 Mobil 1 oils were marketed as high mileage.
> 
> Looking at my manuals, I decided on a purchase based on what was recommended for the temperatures I normally operate at. I use 10W-30 in my gas lawn mower and leaf blower and use 0W-30 in my snow blower.


High mileage oils usually have some sort of seal conditioner to prevent leaks. I actually picked up a quart of the super tech synthetic 10w 30 last time I was a walmart for the lawn mower.


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