# Advice on Soil Test Results



## CoreyLeichty (Mar 3, 2020)

Hi all,

I just received soil test results for my lawn. I'm located in NW Ohio and have about 10,000 sq ft. I've been doing a lot of research on what to do but haven't been able to come up with any confidence to get a plan set for this year for my lawn.

My house and lawn are only about 5 years old. The lawn still has quite a few small bare patches that I'd like to fix up in the fall with seed. I'm mainly just trying to get my soil to a healthy level but I'm not sure what products to buy. I like the idea of having an organic lawn but realize that is a process that I probably need to work up to over many years.



As you can see my soil pH is very high. It's concerning when I research that multiple sources say if soil pH is over 7.5 that it will be very difficult to bring it down. Like I shouldn't even try?!? haha

My phosphorus is also abnormally low.

I'm having trouble deciding on what products I should use this year and put together a schedule/timeline for my plan. Any advice you have would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,
~Corey


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

This is a normal soil for our areas.

This  guideline should describe the process for pH and what products/rates to apply for your high pH.

You are low in P and can use some K (just to improve your reserves). Spectrum doesn't test for sulfur in their normal test. Everything else looks ok. Try to mulch mow to help maintain your P levels and to continue to increase your OM %.


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## HoosierLawnGnome (Sep 28, 2017)

Yes, typical soil for the area. It's a tighter soil, a *silty loam* with that CEC in the 15s. If you have problems with water absorption / soil cracking, or other indicators that water is running off, look into liquid aerifiers or soil conditioners with biostimulants containing kelp and the like.

Another thing that will help here is *adding organic matter*. Your level is poor @ 2%. OM helps absorb water and retain nutrients. It takes a long time to increase this ratio and lots of material - many seasons. Mulch mow and mulch all those yummy leaves this fall. Steal your neighbors' 

*K is just slightly low in terms of what's available.* Its' not low overall, it's just bound up. I don't think it's calcerous, so that's good. So, we want to increase the K level with minimal harm to your soil biology and minimizing pH increases.

The 7.7 pH starts to bind up nutrients like Iron. Your *iron level is great, but unavailable*. It will need supplied in a way that your grass in your soil can use, even though the test says it looks good.

Your *Phosphorus sucks*. Blech.

So, what's my recommendation?

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Optimal Plan:

Apply Sulfate of Potash (SOP 0-0-50) at 2 lbs / K at greenup in March, May, late August. We're going slower here with a product that won't push the pH as much and will protect your soil biology more than other products.

Apply Milorganite (or it's equivalent, I know OH has some) at labelled bag rate March after greenup, April, May, late August, September, October. This supplies iron in a way your soil can use it, P, and some N. Stimulates soil biology. Good stuff. I can't speak to OH equivalent efficacy, so milorganite is the tested recommendation.

Apply Monoammonium Phosphate (MAP 11-52-0 ish) or Diammonium Phosphate (DAP 18-52-0 ish) @ 2 lbs / K after greenup in March, April, May, late August, September, October.

Supplement some small apps of urea in September / October if you elect a higher level of turf maintenance.

Apply 2 lbs / K urea after top growth has stopped but before roots have stopped growing, typically later November.

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Easier, but still good plan:

Get a balanced fertilizer (i.e. 18-18-18). Apply it at half bag rate after greenup in March, April, May, late August, September.

Apply Milorganite (or it's equivalent, I know OH has some) at labelled bag rate March after greenup, April, May, late August, September, October. This supplies iron in a way your soil can use it, P, and some N. Stimulates soil biology. Good stuff. I can't speak to OH equivalent efficacy, so milorganite is the tested recommendation.

Apply 2 lbs / K urea after top growth has stopped but before roots have stopped growing, typically later November.

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Spread out applications a few weeks from each other. Water them in afterwards. For even better results, split up apps in the fall every other week.

Spray iron is another way to get iron to your turf in a way it can use, be mindful of your turf species as it has different maximums N application than lawns that many have on the site with KBG or PR.

Best of luck to you!


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## CoreyLeichty (Mar 3, 2020)

Thank you both for the information! I'd love to increase the organic matter but don't know of an easy way with 10,000 sq ft. Getting compost and spreading it 1/4 inch thick over that large of an area seems like a big task. I already do always mulch my grass clippings and I unfortunately don't have any trees in my yard and not many in the neighborhood overall.

I could probably get my hands on truckloads of leaves in the fall and spread them over the lawn and mulch them with the lawn mower as long as it isn't windy. Would that be worth it?

I could probably buy compressed bags of peat moss for fairly cheap and spread that around which would add organic matter and possibly lower pH?


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## sean_h (Jan 31, 2020)

Aerate when you top dress with compost, working the material down into (and fill up) the core holes. That'll help with pH (to some extent), as well... and improves soil structure and gets some organics into the root zone.

https://www.turfmagazine.com/general-turf-care/compost-topdressing-sustainable-lawn-care/


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## CoreyLeichty (Mar 3, 2020)

I'm having trouble finding some of the suggested products. And when I have found them, it seems pretty expensive. What are the expected prices for these products and where can you find them? And if I can't find them, what is the alternative?

I have 10,000 sq ft

Sulfate of Potash - 20 lbs for $28. 3 apps for the year = $84
https://mbferts.com/products/sqm-ultrasol-potash-sop-0-0-52-soluble-potassium-sulfate?_pos=1&_sid=d78c02590&_ss=r

Monoammonium Phosphate - 20 lbs for $33. 6 apps for the year = $198
https://mbferts.com/products/haifa-map-mono-ammonium-phosphate-diy-hydroponic-fertilizer?_pos=1&_sid=11dbe17b5&_ss=r

Milorganite (I found this at my local supply store) - 50 lbs for $13. 2 bags per app. 6 apps for the year = $156

Urea (I found this at my local supply store) - 50 lbs for $14. Might use 20 lbs or so in late Nov = $5.60

So that comes out to $443.60 for the year. Is that reasonable/expected? Just trying to get an understanding here.

Also, which of these products needs watered in after applying?

Thanks all for your help!


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

These prices are too high. You need to find local sources. A 50lb bag of SOP should be around $30, 50lb MAP should be around $25, Urea that's a good price.

Milo is expensive and 50lb for $13 is actually pretty good for it.

In Ohio, you should find this at Advanced Turf Solutions or Helena Fertilizers.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

You'll need to do some gum-shoe research. Look at web sites and call around, but you're in prime farm country and pickin's should be good especially if your willing to do a little road trip in the direction of Fostoria etc:
https://www.manta.com/mb_45_B610505L_36/fertilizer/ohio


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## Methodical (May 3, 2018)

Do you have a Site One in the area? If your are law enforcement, military or a fireman, you may be able to get contractor prices...don't know if it applies in all areas. They have 10-0-20 or 0-0-20 in 50lb bags, if that helps any.

Additionally, I use a compost roller (Peatmoss spreader) to top dress my lawn with leafgro; it makes life soooo much easier.


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## CoreyLeichty (Mar 3, 2020)

Hey all,

I would just like to give an update from last year. I just received another soil test results and it looks like things have improved slightly. Is this good progress? I followed the optimal plan above from @HoosierLawnGnome

Think I should do this same plan for another year or modify it at all?

Thanks!
~Corey


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