# Educate me on iron



## w0lfe

So I see that some put iron on their lawns, in assuming for bermuda? What are the benefits of it that synthetic fertilizer (46-0-0) doesn't give? Are their granular products or are they all liquid application based?


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## Tellycoleman

46-0-0. As you know the 46 is nitrogen
Nitrogen promotes healthy leaf growth by encouraging the production of chlorophyll, which is a chemical vital to photosynthesis. Increase in chlorophyll enhances the green color you see. 
However nitrogen can't do it alone. 
Iron is essential in making chlorophyll. If your grass has little iron it won't be able to produce the amount of chlorophyll that the nitrogen has stimulated. 
Nitrogen is the cook and iron is the ingredients. Adding more cooks in the kitchen will do little good without more ingredients. 
If your soil is 7.5 ph or higher- very compact soil- or even high levels of phosphorus then your grass will have a reduced uptake of iron. No amount of fertilizer will make it greener. But by adding a leaf absorbed Chelated Iron ( or a slower granular iron) you will give the cooks in the kitchen all the ingredients they need. (So to speak)
Resulting in a darker green grass.

Adding iron is not just for Bermuda or warm season grasses. All turf grasses can benefit.

1 pound of Nitrogen is 1pound of nitrogen. Weather it's 46-0-0 or 21-0-0 fast acting Ammonium Sulfate or 10-10-10

We can also talk about PGR and how that results in greener grass as well.
Basically let have another analogy. 
If you have 1,500 people in a hot gym How smelly do you think it would be? 
and then shrink the gym to the size of a classroom. Now how smelly?

That's what PGR does to Chlorophyll. It packs them in tighter making the room smaller and making the green even greener.


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## Flynt2799

@Tellycoleman great info!


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## Ridgerunner

:thumbup:


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## Sam23

Awesome Analogies!


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## w0lfe

Man that's awesome. That explains almost every question I could think of... So, since I've never put iron on my lawn, is it similar as nitrogen where there is potential for burn? Or is it safe to add at any point in the season? Also, what are the best products, both in liquid or granular form. Great analogies once again.


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## kur1j

w0lfe said:


> Man that's awesome. That explains almost every question I could think of... So, since I've never put iron on my lawn, is it similar as nitrogen where there is potential for burn? Or is it safe to add at any point in the season? Also, what are the best products, both in liquid or granular form. Great analogies once again.


It won't "burn" it but it can turn it black. https://aroundtheyard.com/forums2/viewtopic.php?t=11307


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## Ware

There are several good options for foliar iron applications - here is one that I just did a video about. More details here.


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## elm34

How much is to much iron? I can across this product on HD. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Monterey-Dr-Iron-21-lb-Organic-Lawn-Pellets-LG7122/202043621
Which says it's 22% and won't stain the driveway. Has anyone used it before?


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## w0lfe

Also, due to yellowing from herbicide, will iron green that back up in a hurry?


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## raymond

What do yall think about Southern Ag Chelated Liquid Iron? https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TJXA8FXGEC7VSGKAQDZF


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## Ral1121

@raymond

Go to a siteone landscape supply in your area. If you want liquid iron, they will have it. You can pick up 2.5 gals for around the price of that southern ag. The product I use is actually a manganese and micro nutrients mix. It has iron in it as well as a few other things. I got mine for around $30 as well for 2.5 gal

If you want a granule that you can despolve which might be more cost effective,. Use FEature. Don't remember where you can order it from but you can find that in MQ's liquid fert program thread.


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## Tellycoleman

raymond said:


> What do yall think about Southern Ag Chelated Liquid Iron? https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TJXA8FXGEC7VSGKAQDZF


What kind of sprayer do you have?
I like FEature 6-0-0


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## RandyMan

raymond said:


> What do yall think about Southern Ag Chelated Liquid Iron? https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TJXA8FXGEC7VSGKAQDZF


The reviews are great.Might have to try it out.Wonder if it would work on bermuda?One of the reviewers said it did nothing to his bermuda.


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## kur1j

@Ral1121 What are the advantage or disadvantages of the FEature vs what you are using in liquid form?


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## Ral1121

FEature I believe is cheaper per app and supposedly does not stain. Also when you look at the types of chelated iron it has, it has multiple types that will be available to your lawn based on different soil pH. I bought the stuff from siteone before I new about FEature. It has eddha iron which is good for my soil pH


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## kur1j

@Ral1121 Thanks! So basically what I have been seeing around here is just to get and use FEature?


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## Ral1121

kur1j said:


> @Ral1121 Thanks! So basically what I have been seeing around here is just to get and use FEature?


Everyone that has tried it seems to be happy with it. I am just using up what I have before getting some.


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## w0lfe

So does anyone know if this will remedy yellowing from herbicide?


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## FATC1TY

Wasn't there a shopping list of the correct Stuff to buy on amazon at one point ??

Looking to blend my own and backpacks spray it.


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## RandyMan

Tellycoleman said:


> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> What do yall think about Southern Ag Chelated Liquid Iron? https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TJXA8FXGEC7VSGKAQDZF
> 
> 
> 
> What kind of sprayer do you have?
> I like FEature 6-0-0
Click to expand...

Where can you buy feature at?


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## Ral1121

@RandyMan

Found it

https://www.epesthero.com/collections/fertilizers/products/feature-6-0-0-water-soluble-micronutrients?variant=275338133513


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## RandyMan

Thanks Ral1121 .Gonna try one bag.
I am gonna mix it in my 2 gallon sprayer.How much would I mix per 2 gallons of water?It reads 1-2 oz per 1,000 ft


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## kur1j

@RandyMan

The thing about these chemicals normally is that it doesn't matter how many gallons of water you put out it's the amount of chemical over an area.

Figure our how many sqft your gallon sprayer covers and then put that amount in your sprayer.

For example my 4gb backpack sprayer will do right at 900sqft per gallon with my current head. That means I can do 3600sqft with 4g of water. Which means I would use 3.6-7.2oz in my sprayer.


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## Suaverc118

How often and where in your lawn schedule should you put down some iron? That's one thing I haven't done before.


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## Ral1121

I do weekly foliar fert apps so it is part of that.


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## kur1j

@Ral1121 So why would I want to do foiler apps of fert compared to granular? It seems that it's a lot of extra work, a lot more complicated is about the same price and it's about the same results? Or did I miss something?


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## Ral1121

@kur1j I am experimenting with it this year. I am trying to pump my yard with nitrogen but also know that a lot of it will leach away in the soil. So I apply milorganite once a month and do weekly fas foliar apps. The iron in milorganite is not readily available because of my soil pH which is another reason for my foliar apps. I get a nice green pop from it. My yard is one of the deepest green yards in my neighborhood. It just needs to fill in. I have a little area in a side strip that I always spray some of my left overs from my tank as well as where I clean it out and there is a big difference.


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## Tellycoleman

kur1j said:


> So why would I want to do foiler apps of fert compared to granular? It seems that it's a lot of extra work, a lot more complicated is about the same price and it's about the same results? Or did I miss something?


I asked this exact question to @thegrassfactor during his Sunday YouTube Live Cast. 
His response was that with foliar absorbed iron you get the benefit of 2 modes of absorption. Of course foliar but also when it rains or gets irrigated you may have root absorbed uptake. 
Granular iron only has one mode of absorption. ( root absorbed)

I guess ( my thoughts) depending on soil PH and cation exchange it may not be as an effective way to deliver iron. " I asked for the best way to deliver " With that said I have iron mixed in my fertilizer also but I don't see the big jumps in color response that I do with liquid.


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## kur1j

Well I wasn't meaning specifically for iron but fertilizer in general. Is it just better uptake in that regard as well?


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## raldridge2315

kur1j said:


> Well I wasn't meaning specifically for iron but fertilizer in general. Is it just better uptake in that regard as well?


I think so.


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## balistek

For those using feature. WHat is your process. Spray then water in, spray and leave it, or wait a period of time then water it in.


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## Bunnysarefat

The more I read about iron the more it seems like you need a chemistry and biology degree to really understand it. There's so many factors at play. Guys like the grassfactor and some of the other guys on here with some deeper knowledge can help but I think this is an area that's ripe for experimenting and share what works for you. I think knowing your soil PH is critical in sharing your experiments though because that's really what changes your approach.


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## Colonel K0rn

@balistek I spray it on and leave it. Similar to PGR, the grass blade is only going to absorb so many "cooks in the kitchen" as @Tellycoleman said. It works for me when I'm doing my GCF applications bi-weekly (which I'm behind on thanks to Alberto).


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## thegrassfactor

Fertilizers are more efficient foliarly, period. That being said, there are things you can do with granular that you can't do with liquid (and vice versa). It all comes down to prefferred method of application. If you can spoon feed liquid, great. You get response speed and multi-forms of uptake. If you can only apply granular, great. You can control release with coatings, and speed up application. Plus you can deliver higher concentrations of carbon in single applications with granular that you can't with liquid. Each had their advantages, but foliar wins in overall efficiency. Hard to beat 2 modes of uptake.


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## thegrassfactor

Bunnysarefat said:


> The more I read about iron the more it seems like you need a chemistry and biology degree to really understand it. There's so many factors at play. Guys like the grassfactor and some of the other guys on here with some deeper knowledge can help but I think this is an area that's ripe for experimenting and share what works for you. I think knowing your soil PH is critical in sharing your experiments though because that's really what changes your approach.


Dont take this the wrong way but I think you're over complicating it. IIron is actually very simple. It causes a temporary leaf tissue flood of chlorophyll. It will last a short period of time because usually the nitrogen in the plant will "push out" the iron as it generates new growth.

Applying it with growth regulator will inhibit the "push out" effect and allow the color from the iron to retain longer.

Chelation has to deal with how much applied actually makes it into the plant. Chelated comes from Greek - claw - meaning the metal is held in a elemental state that can move easier into the plants leaf and root tissue. More uptake - more green.

Applying with nitrogen is also related to uptake. Nitrogen increases iron levels in plant tissue.

Simply put, iron forces a darker green due to increased chlorophyll.

pH typically deals with how much is taken up from the native soil and whether or not it's in a plant available form. If applied foliarly, soil pH isn't as much of a factor


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## Bunnysarefat

thegrassfactor said:


> Bunnysarefat said:
> 
> 
> 
> The more I read about iron the more it seems like you need a chemistry and biology degree to really understand it. There's so many factors at play. Guys like the grassfactor and some of the other guys on here with some deeper knowledge can help but I think this is an area that's ripe for experimenting and share what works for you. I think knowing your soil PH is critical in sharing your experiments though because that's really what changes your approach.
> 
> 
> 
> Dont take this the wrong way but I think you're over complicating it. IIron is actually very simple. It causes a temporary leaf tissue flood of chlorophyll. It will last a short period of time because usually the nitrogen in the plant will "push out" the iron as it generates new growth.
> 
> Applying it with growth regulator will inhibit the "push out" effect and allow the color from the iron to retain longer.
> 
> Chelation has to deal with how much applied actually makes it into the plant. Chelated comes from Greek - claw - meaning the metal is held in a elemental state that can move easier into the plants leaf and root tissue. More uptake - more green.
> 
> Applying with nitrogen is also related to uptake. Nitrogen increases iron levels in plant tissue.
> 
> Simply put, iron forces a darker green due to increased chlorophyll.
> 
> pH typically deals with how much is taken up from the native soil and whether or not it's in a plant available form. If applied foliarly, soil pH isn't as much of a factor
Click to expand...

Maybe you're right. I've been reading a lot of white papers that aren't necessarily turf grass related on the topic so maybe I've gone too far down the rabbit hole.


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## Ral1121

Something that is important when choosing a chelated iron

There are 3 main types which best work at different soil pH to keep iron abaily to the plant

EDTA- is best for anything under pH of 6
DPTA- is best between soil pHs of 6-7( I believe)
EDDHA- is best between soil pHs of 7-11

From what I understand EDDHA is good for all pHs but is also the most expensive chelated iron. If you know you pH, you can buy the form you need and possy save a little money.

Another thing that is great about FEature is it has both EDDHA and EDTA chelated iron so it covers all soil pHs.

Some might ask why does it really matter is you are foliar feeding? From what I understand, at some point you will water it in to rinse the grass blades. If you do not have the proper type, the iron will not be available to be absory through the roots and will leach away. At least with the proper type you can get some additional benefits when it gets into the soil.

I am pretty new to this and have read quite a bit so hopefully someone will come by and correct me on anything I got wrong


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## Davie_Gravy

So if I only apply Southern Ag's 6% eddha chelated iron with each PGR application, then how much (in grams/1000) of this iron product should I be incorporating in the tank mix? Those with experience, what do you recommend?

edit1: @wardconnor i believe you use this product. what say you?

edit2: i may have found the answer by looking at a similar product. http://betterplants.basf.us/products/related-documents/sprint-330-and-sprint-138-technical-information-bulletin.pdf
looks like 2oz/k along with 0.1lb/k AS would do the trick.


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## w0lfe

So I've been doing my 46-0-0 applications on the 10th of the month, but I've just gotten my FEature in. Do you guys think it'd be best to put it down right before I apply my next fertilizer? Or does it not matter that much, and I'd get the same color burst if I applied it today? Also, temperature does not matter correct? What about marker dye? Or will I be able to see this stuff pretty easily without it?


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## Tellycoleman

@w0lfe As long as your not putting down more than a pound of your 46-0-0 you should be fine. Is it all fast release? 
Doesn't mater its 9 days away so go ahead. 
Actually now that i look on my calender 
I put down a pound of ammonium sulfate 9 days after my Feature app. 
Throw 'er Down!!!


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## Tellycoleman

Look at what @Greendoc puts in his tank with FEature. (in the MQ's Liquid Lawn Fertilizing Plan thread) Might set your mind at ease about applying it.


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## balistek

Spraying Feature at 90+ degree weather advisable?


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## FATC1TY

Too funny. You guys bought all the feature on that website in a week. Congrats!!

Anyone know of another source ? Was going to tank mix with pgr.


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## w0lfe

balistek said:


> Spraying Feature at 90+ degree weather advisable?


I did when it was near 100 at the 2oz per 1k rate and it looks glorious 😁


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## balistek

w0lfe said:


> balistek said:
> 
> 
> 
> Spraying Feature at 90+ degree weather advisable?
> 
> 
> 
> I did when it was near 100 at the 2oz per 1k rate and it looks glorious 😁
Click to expand...

thank you for this, i Was planning on being bold and going 2oz per 1k, how fast did u notice results. im very anxious to see it


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## w0lfe




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## w0lfe

balistek said:


> w0lfe said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> balistek said:
> 
> 
> 
> Spraying Feature at 90+ degree weather advisable?
> 
> 
> 
> I did when it was near 100 at the 2oz per 1k rate and it looks glorious 😁
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> thank you for this, i Was planning on being bold and going 2oz per 1k, how fast did u notice results. im very anxious to see it
Click to expand...

I noticed in about a day and a half to 2 days. It's still popping and it's been about 4 days


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## Colonel K0rn

FATC1TY said:


> Too funny. You guys bought all the feature on that website in a week. Congrats!!
> Anyone know of another source ? Was going to tank mix with pgr.


Yeah, that site is definitely sold out. I'm going to call a local rep to see if I can get some, or see when ePestHero plans to stock it again. Check the manufacturer's website to see if you can pick up some locally from some sales reps, or a brick and mortar.

FWIW, there's one in Greensboro, and you might be able to go by Greene County Fertilizer if you score some product from the sales rep. Be sure to call first  I've been meaning to get up to the plant to meet some folks.

Anyone interested in a group buy?


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## kur1j

How long will FEature last in the lawn? In other words how often do i need to reapply? Trying to figure out how much I need to buy.


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## Greendoc

kur1j said:


> How long will FEature last in the lawn? In other words how often do i need to reapply? Trying to figure out how much I need to buy.


I have seen it last a month. Especially at the 2 oz rate and if it is not the first time it has been applied. If used on lawns where it is applied then the irrigation waters it in before the next mowing, FEature is not temporary.


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## Suaverc118

My pH is 7.5. which would be the best one to use? Do I have to use something with EDDHA or can I go lower and still have some results? Can I get away with the southern AG? Thanks


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## Ral1121

Greendoc said:


> kur1j said:
> 
> 
> 
> How long will FEature last in the lawn? In other words how often do i need to reapply? Trying to figure out how much I need to buy.
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen it last a month. Especially at the 2 oz rate and if it is not the first time it has been applied. If used on lawns where it is applied then the irrigation waters it in before the next mowing, FEature is not temporary.
Click to expand...

Doesn't it depend on your soil profile? Sandy soils not as long as clay soils because they leach quicker?


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## kur1j

@Greendoc So slightly confused by your statement. You mentioned that you have seen it last a month. But then mentioned it isn't temporary? I thought this was essentially just a feartilizer thst you put down routinely like everything else?


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## RandyMan

FATC1TY said:


> Too funny. You guys bought all the feature on that website in a week. Congrats!!
> 
> Anyone know of another source ? Was going to tank mix with pgr.


I got it off ebay.for abour $3 more.Whats funny is when I got the shipping notification I got a email from epest so I think its the same company on ebay but under a differnet name,


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## Greendoc

kur1j said:


> @Greendoc So slightly confused by your statement. You mentioned that you have seen it last a month. But then mentioned it isn't temporary? I thought this was essentially just a feartilizer thst you put down routinely like everything else?


If you are applying non chelated or minimally formulated Iron such as Ferromec, that lasts 14 days or less. I call that temporary. The purpose of FEature is to provide a consistent green that is not coming from high rates of Nitrogen. What I am doing is based on the need to keep grass green and healthy 52 weeks out of the year.


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## kur1j

@Greendoc So would you put down something like Ferromec to kick start the green and then apply FEature to sustain the green? Use them both in combination? How do you know how often to reapply? Would you have to do a soil sample every time or just based on the grass losing it's green?


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## Greendoc

FEature works fast enough for me not to even deal with Ferromec. Ferromec is nothing more than Urea+unchelated Iron Sulfate. It works great for staining clothing, sidewalks and fences. In order to keep grass green I plan on applying every month. My soils are probably not the best for growing grass. pH over 7, excessive Sodium, excessive Magnesium.


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## w0lfe

RandyMan said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> Too funny. You guys bought all the feature on that website in a week. Congrats!!
> 
> Anyone know of another source ? Was going to tank mix with pgr.
> 
> 
> 
> I got it off ebay.for abour $3 more.Whats funny is when I got the shipping notification I got a email from epest so I think its the same company on ebay but under a differnet name,
Click to expand...

Same deal here lol


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## Alan

Clever way to make an extra 15% or so.


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## kur1j

@Alan 3$ is about spot on the ebay fees. I would bet they are making very little extra.


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## Alan

kur1j said:


> @Alan 3$ is about spot on the ebay fees. I would bet they are making very little extra.


Ahhh, good point, I hadn't thought about that, so yeah, it's probably a wash.


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## kur1j

Does no one else carry FEature online? Epest has been has been out of stock for 2+ weeks now.


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## Ware

kur1j said:


> Does no one else carry FEature online? Epest has been has been out of stock for 2+ weeks now.


There is some on eBay.


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## kur1j

Ware said:


> kur1j said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does no one else carry FEature online? Epest has been has been out of stock for 2+ weeks now.
> 
> 
> 
> There is some on eBay.
Click to expand...

Does that not show out of stock for you? I checked ebay as well before I posted and it shows it's out of stock. From the reports from other people it's coming from the same company on ebay.


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## Ware

kur1j said:


> Does that not show out of stock for you? I checked ebay as well before I posted and it shows it's out of stock. From the reports from other people it's coming from the same company on ebay.


I didn't try to buy any - was just going off of this...


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## kur1j

@Ware yeah i think if you tried to order it, it would stop you. This is what I see.


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## Ware

kur1j said:


> @Ware yeah i think if you tried to order it, it would stop you. This is what I see.


I'm confused - doesn't that also say "more than 10 available"?

ETA: Never mind. I now see the listing was ended.


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## Ware

There are other great Fe products out there - I wouldn't be married to that one.


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## kur1j

@Ware Are there any that are basically the same as this? @Greendoc recommended it as it doesn't stain and works well. I have had good success with everything he recommends.


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## Ware

@kur1j you could contact Loveland and ask them who might be stocking it.


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## Fishnugget

OK I have used both Southern Ag Liquid Iron and Feature 6-0-0

These are my findings with both products...

*Southern Ag Liquid Iron*
-I have used it for 3-4 months
-Greens up my lawn the next day and it gets greener the second day
-Lasts about 10-14 days
-I spray twice a month

*Feature*
-Greened up my lawn 3-4 days but the green color was not as prominent as when I use Southern Ag Liquid Fe.
-I have only used one application and used it with PGR
-I dosed at 2oz/1000 sq. ft.
-I need to use this product more, maybe I will experiment with 3oz/1000 sq ft.

My preferred product so far is Southern AG Liquid Iron
I was dosing my lawn at 1 pint/1000sq ft. , in 2 days the lawn will turn dark green and I will have prominent striping when I mow (see pics).

However, after my second mow I don't get the prominent striping anymore 
Even though that is the case I still like to use Southern Ag Liquid Fe because it Works! It does stain so be careful when applying near concrete.

I am still experimenting and testing out Feature with my lawn. I want to give it more applications before I give it a final opinion. 

This is my lawn after application of Southern Ag Liquid Iron with a HOC of 0.5"


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## kur1j

@Fishnugget That looks awesome. How long did the FEature application last?


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## Fishnugget

kur1j said:


> @Fishnugget That looks awesome. How long did the FEature application last?


Thanks kurlj, I just sprayed FEature on 6/1/18 and it is still holding up its green. Too early to tell but I will post my experience with FEature. However, the green is a lot less than when I spray with Southern Ag Liquid Iron. It could very well be I need to add more FEature product.


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## kur1j

This might be a silly question but with FEature if you just want to keep the lawn green and if your lawn is already good in other micronutrients, would it be better to simply apply iron alone?

For example, your spply Feature one month but to keep the lawn green just apply the Iton alone for the next month? Or is it okay/wise to simply apply FEature every month?


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## kur1j

Ware said:


> There are other great Fe products out there - I wouldn't be married to that one.


Did you mind listing a couple thst you had in mind? I really like this one because of the non-staining. When I google it keeps coming back to recommendations for FEature.


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## Ware

kur1j said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> There are other great Fe products out there - I wouldn't be married to that one.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you mind listing a couple thst you had in mind? I really like this one because of the non-staining. When I google it keeps coming back to recommendations for FEature.
Click to expand...

There are several listed in this thread (and others) that TLF members have documented success with. I've never really worried about staining my concrete - I just don't spray the iron on the concrete.


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## Ware

@kur1j the GreeNeEfFect 7-0-0 is chelated with citric acid, which from what I understand is a desirable combination. You might check into it.

Seems like someone else here is using a Lesco 4-4-5 (?) product, but I don't recall who.

For the last few seasons I've just been spraying FAS as needed in combination with the iron content of whatever granular fertilizer I'm using. I bought 25lbs each of Ferrous Sulfate and Ammonium Sulfate. The cost is ~$65 and it will make enough to spray 100k square feet - or about 13 apps on my lawn. And again, I just avoid spraying it on concrete. I'm not saying there aren't better options, and I may try something different when I run out, but it has been working fine for me. :thumbsup:


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## kur1j

@Ware Haha I cant eat a cheeseburger without dropping crap all over me. The chances of me not spilling some of this mess everywhere is practically 0. Hence why it's so appealing for me haha.

Appreciate, you linking those! I'll check those out. How significant is the range of Fe impact the green of the lawn? A lot of these products range from 2-10% Fe. So not sure if that's significant.


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## Ware

@Greendoc may know of some other non-staining options. It looks like Feature 6-0-0 is unobtanium right now.


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## FATC1TY

Need to whip something together quickly so I can spray by next week sometime with my PGR.

Any of the above mentioned have any issues tank mixed with PGR?? Going out of town for a week and last time that happened my yard turned into a hot mess not being cut.


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## Fishnugget

kur1j said:


> This might be a silly question but with FEature if you just want to keep the lawn green and if your lawn is already good in other micronutrients, would it be better to simply apply iron alone?
> 
> For example, your spply Feature one month but to keep the lawn green just apply the Iton alone for the next month? Or is it okay/wise to simply apply FEature every month?


Good question...FEature does have other micro-nutrients but I have no idea because these products work through foliar application and it might be impossible to test the deficit of each leaf blade. I don't even know if such a test exists. I have read that Iron works in conjunction with the nutrients such as nitrates which leads to growth and more availability of chlorophyll which equates to more green color.

I am not expert or chemist but you can experiment with adding FeSO4 (Iron) every other month.

When you have saturated your grass with FeSO4 you will burn it and it will turn black. That's when you know you went overboard on the Iron. This is why its recommended to follow the dosing "guidelines" of a product, so they give you an "idea" of how much to dose.

The best thing to do is to try it and see what results you get, then post here! 

I have learned through experience that you can chase the "numbers" all day but at the end of the day your better going with how your grass looks. Does it have a healthy leaf blade, is it a dark green color, is the growth good? I think its better to gauge your grass this way in my opinion. Often times, people begin to get too caught up in the numbers.

However, I am not discounting any testing such as a soil test because that can be your baseline where you can work from.


----------



## Ware

Fishnugget said:


> I have learned through experience that you can chase the "numbers" all day but at the end of the day your better going with how your grass looks. Does it have a healthy leaf blade, is it a dark green color, is the growth good? I think its better to gauge your grass this way in my opinion. Often times, people begin to get too caught up in the numbers.


 :thumbsup: :thumbsup:


----------



## Greendoc

Powdered raw material FeEDTA or FeEDDHA is a substitute. What makes FEature so good is the fact that it is a ready to use formula containing not only Iron, but Manganese, Magnesium, and Sulfur in quantities and ratios that gets grass green.


----------



## Greendoc

Ware said:


> Fishnugget said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have learned through experience that you can chase the "numbers" all day but at the end of the day your better going with how your grass looks. Does it have a healthy leaf blade, is it a dark green color, is the growth good? I think its better to gauge your grass this way in my opinion. Often times, people begin to get too caught up in the numbers.
> 
> 
> 
> :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Chasing numbers is what the MLSN people want you to do. At the end of the day, no matter what numbers in an E-Mail say, if someone's grass is not greener than what bagged, big box store fertilizer can do, I am out of a job.


----------



## slash8118

Saw someone post this in another thread. Since FEature is sold out everywhere else, this may be a near identical substitute looking at the ingredients. What do you think @Greendoc ? Would this be the same thing as FEature?

https://www.treestuff.com/store/catalog.asp?item=1600#detail


----------



## Greendoc

I would say it is very similar. Only difference is the addition of sugars and Humic. Not in quantities that are significant though. From the chelation system used, it is probably at low risk of staining. I agree, nothing gets grass green like FAS or Ferrous Sulfate in solution. However, having to give wide berth to concrete, walls and fences cancels that out.


----------



## slash8118

Greendoc said:


> I would say it is very similar. Only difference is the addition of sugars and Humic. Not in quantities that are significant though. From the chelation system used, it is probably at low risk of staining. I agree, nothing gets grass green like FAS or Ferrous Sulfate in solution. However, having to give wide berth to concrete, walls and fences cancels that out.


One of the main differences besides the sugars and humic between the FEature and "Main Event" Iron appears to be the Ferric ammonium sulfate in Main Event. What do you make of that?

Also the FEature spells out what the chelating agents and the Main Event does not, not sure if that means anything though..


----------



## Greendoc

Hopefully, there is enough EDTA, EDDHA and Citric Acid to keep the Iron and Manganese from staining. The chelates are listed on the Main Event label. I have never used Main Event so I cannot tell you. Reason why I am familiar with FEature is there is a CPS-Agrium branch on the island that supplies golf courses and nurseries. A long time ago, my sales rep told me about FEature and I have been using it for over 10 years now. Those of you looking for FEature might do well to find a CPS-Agrium branch and see if they will sell you a bag or two.


----------



## Fishnugget

Greendoc since you have been using FEature for such a long period of time will my grass eventually get the dark green look I get when I use the liquid Iron from Southern Ag? Would a higher dose of FEature help. Or is the Iron content in FEature the bottleneck, meaning I would have to supplement more FeSO4? Thanks


----------



## Greendoc

The green I get from FEature is from spraying 10-12 times in a year at 2 oz per 1000 sq ft minimum. If I am applying to a lawn that is growing on soil with a pH above 7, that rate is increased to 3-4 oz per 1000 sq ft. This is only to be done to lawns that were previously irrigated in the last 1`2 hours to minimize the chance of burning. Liquid fertilizers will scorch turf that is dry at time of application.


----------



## Fishnugget

Greendoc said:


> The green I get from FEature is from spraying 10-12 times in a year at 2 oz per 1000 sq ft minimum. If I am applying to a lawn that is growing on soil with a pH above 7, that rate is increased to 3-4 oz per 1000 sq ft. This is only to be done to lawns that were previously irrigated in the last 1`2 hours to minimize the chance of burning. Liquid fertilizers will scorch turf that is dry at time of application.


Hmmmmm.......Interesting. I did not know liquid ferts could burn dry grass but that makes sense. Thanks for the tip. I will get my soil pH tested.


----------



## Greendoc

Does your soil have a lot of white bits in it? That is probably caliche. Very similar to my curse of clay mixed with coral. Grass does not grow well on those kinds of soil until the alkalinity is addressed.


----------



## Fishnugget

No, no white bits in my soil. I have sandy loamy soil. However, I looked at my lawn today and the green is not there. I am going to order some granular dissolvable Iron from Southern Ag and spray biweekly. This will really show the difference between the two iron products.


----------



## Greendoc

You might need the other elements present in either the FEature or Main Event. It is extremely rare for me to apply Iron in isolation from other elements. I find that grass needs Manganese in equal or greater amounts to get green and Magnesium in lesser amounts than the Iron and Manganese.

Other possibility is that your N applications are just leaching through. In that case, you are a candidate for 14 day applications of N at 0.25 lb per 1000 sq ft in addition to the Iron


----------



## kur1j

Greendoc said:


> Those of you looking for FEature might do well to find a CPS-Agrium branch and see if they will sell you a bag or two.


I called a local place that sells CPS (not sure if they are a agrium branch or what but found it on the loveland site) stuff and they had no clue what I was talking about. They were nice about it and they tried looking it up go see if they could order it but he said that the closest place that had any FEature in stock was in Utah.

For whatever reason it's really hard to find any "professional" lawn care stores that supply any turf/greens grade fertilizers or lawn care chemicals. It's mostly all ag stores. The only places that I know that sells any of this type of stuff or geared toward this market is SiteOne. But they honestly don't have a huge selection. Of all of the grasss management companies and golf courses and such they seem to mostly deal with Harrell's. Unfortunately, Harrell's doesn't deal with individuals.


----------



## Greendoc

Ok. Your next best bet is to try out the Main Event. I do not want to think about boxing up bags of FEature and sending it back to the Continental US. Even Priority Mail from Hawaii is horrendous.


----------



## kur1j

@Greendoc Yeah, I wouldn't ask you to do that.

I think Im going to try mixing Axilo and Sprint 330 (generic). That way I get the micronutrients and a significant amount of iron. I can't figure out if there is a problem with doing this or how much worse this would be then FEature. When epest gets FEature back in stock, I'll get some of that and just try both.


----------



## Greendoc

Axilo and Sprint 330 is similar to what I do if I want to cover absolutely all bases. My Simplot location sells Miller Microplex which is similar to Axilo. I combine Microplex and FEature for instances where I want all elements to be applied. This is what I do when dealing with lawns that were not fertilized and clippings collected. You can actually deplete soil of all elements by collecting clippings and not fertilizing.


----------



## Ridgerunner

Ware said:


> Fishnugget said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have learned through experience that you can chase the "numbers" all day but at the end of the day your better going with how your grass looks. Does it have a healthy leaf blade, is it a dark green color, is the growth good? I think its better to gauge your grass this way in my opinion. Often times, people begin to get too caught up in the numbers.
> 
> 
> 
> :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

 :thumbup: 
The hardest part of any hobby is learning when to leave it alone.
Of course that might include ignoring FAS, FeSO4, and all the cool HA, FA, BC, and the neat little micro-nutrient packages too. :mrgreen: 



Greendoc said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fishnugget said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have learned through experience that you can chase the "numbers" all day but at the end of the day your better going with how your grass looks. Does it have a healthy leaf blade, is it a dark green color, is the growth good? I think its better to gauge your grass this way in my opinion. Often times, people begin to get too caught up in the numbers.
> 
> 
> 
> :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Chasing numbers is what the MLSN people want you to do. At the end of the day, no matter what numbers in an E-Mail say, if someone's grass is not greener than what bagged, big box store fertilizer can do, I am out of a job.
Click to expand...

You're confusing MLSN and BCSR.


----------



## kur1j

@Ridgerunner What is BCSR?

Well I need an excuse for why my lawn looks terrible. Must be the numbers .

But to be honest I'm just trying to learn anything and everything I can. I just find it interesting.


----------



## Ridgerunner

kur1j said:


> @Ridgerunner What is BCSR?
> 
> Well I need an excuse for why my lawn looks terrible. Must be the numbers .
> 
> But to be honest I'm just trying to learn anything and everything I can. I just find it interesting.


Stands for Base Cation Saturation Ratio. A theory refined in the 1930s by William Albrecht that the soil nutrients Ca, Mg, K, and sometimes Na and H should be present in specific proportions for optimal growth.


----------



## slash8118

FYI, FEature is back in stock on epest. I just ordered a bag to try out


----------



## kur1j

@slash8118 Thanks! Ordered mine this morning! Basically like a ritual for me. Wake up, refresh epest to see if they have it in stock, then go to work. right before bed, refresh, epest site then go to bed. Saw that they finally had it this morning!


----------



## FATC1TY

Hahahs. Ordered me a bag to give a shot. Headed out of town for a week.

Gonna come back. Scalp it I guess and give it a day or two. Hit with pgr and iron and sit back.


----------



## Suaverc118

What are y'all thoughts on this stuff from SiteOne?


----------



## kur1j

Only .4% iron? I'm curious to know how much of an impact of iron has in what concentrations. For example FEature has 10%. Will you get over 20x as green or have to use 20x as much product to get roughly sane green and length of green? i'm just wondering how much is *enough*.


----------



## Ral1121

Suaverc118 said:


> What are y'all thoughts on this stuff from SiteOne?


This is what I am using that I got from siteone. I think it is better all around because it has the other nutrients. I was not that expensive either. Somewhere in the $30 range.


----------



## Colonel K0rn

@kur1j when they were out, I sent an email asking when they would have it again. I was told it would be Monday. I got a follow up email from ePestHero yesterday that FEature was back in stock. Ordered 5 bags. 👏🏼


----------



## Suaverc118

Ral1121 said:


> Suaverc118 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What are y'all thoughts on this stuff from SiteOne?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I am using that I got from siteone. I think it is better all around because it has the other nutrients. I was not that expensive either. Somewhere in the $30 range.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. This one was about $125.00 range


----------



## Ral1121

@Suaverc118 
One other thing about the product, you need to know your pH of your soil. It is supposed to lower your pH. Mine is in the area of 7.5 and I am trying to bring it down.


----------



## kur1j

@Colonel K0rn Yeah, I emailed them too about 2 weeks ago and then again. Every time they told me "we will haven it at end of week". They also said they would email me when they had it in stock again, but I never got anything from them.

I placed my other yesterday in the morning as well. But now I've got Sprint 330 and Axilo Mix 5 to try out as well :-D.


----------



## Delmarva Keith

kur1j said:


> Only .4% iron? I'm curious to know how much of an impact of iron has in what concentrations. For example FEature has 10%. Will you get over 20x as green or have to use 20x as much product to get roughly sane green and length of green? i'm just wondering how much is *enough*.


Just noodling it out, lets say 2 oz (by weight) of 20% iron ferrous sulfate per 1,000 will show a noticable plant response. So 2 oz times 20% = 0.4 oz by weight of "iron."

A liquid ounce of liquid product weighs (very roughly) about a little more than an ounce. If 10% of that ounce is "iron" (I keep putting iron in quotes because of the dizzying number of kinds of iron) and I need about 0.4 ounces of iron by weight to get desired plant response, then I need about 4 liquid oz per 1,000 of FEature.

At 0.4% iron, I need about 100 liquid ounces per 1,000 to get the same response. I don't think they are selling that stuff for the iron content.


----------



## kur1j

You are probably right. The amount of iron they put it it is probably so they could just advertise it as "with Iron!". Im really anxious for the delivery person to hurry up with all my iron products to try out!


----------



## Suaverc118

Ral1121 said:


> @Suaverc118
> One other thing about the product, you need to know your pH of your soil. It is supposed to lower your pH. Mine is in the area of 7.5 and I am trying to bring it down.


Mine was 7.5


----------



## Ral1121

@Suaverc118

Sounds like a product you should try out then. If comes in a 2.5 gal jug. I felt it was a good deal


----------



## Suaverc118

Thanks @Ral1121


----------



## kur1j

So with products like FEature, Axilo, Sorint 330, should I water it in after I apply it? Unless I missed it, it doesn't say i need to on the label for these products.


----------



## w0lfe

Are there any issues with applying FEature with some marker dye?


----------



## Jacob_S

Reviving an old thread for a question, figured this would be a good place to ask. So here's my question and I feel kinda dumb asking but this popped in my mind and was curious. My first app of feature, about 3 weeks ago, I weighed out my amount. Is this how I should measure it or should I be doing a dry ounce measurement as opposed to a weighted measurement?


----------



## Ware

Jacob_S said:


> Reviving an old thread for a question, figured this would be a good place to ask. So here's my question and I feel kinda dumb asking but this popped in my mind and was curious. My first app of feature, about 3 weeks ago, I weighed out my amount. Is this how I should measure it or should I be doing a dry ounce measurement as opposed to a weighted measurement?


You did it right. :thumbsup:

Use ounces weight for dry products, even if they will be dissolved and sprayed.


----------



## Jacob_S

@Ware awesome, thanks for the conformation. Think I'll try the 2oz rate next time, looking forward to being notably darker than the neighbors🤣.


----------



## Rokkfish

Pro Solutions is a product I haven't seen mentioned that I like. It has 6% iron. 2.5 gallons for $29.95 at Tractor Supply.


----------



## CenlaLowell

Rokkfish said:


> Pro Solutions is a product I haven't seen mentioned that I like. It has 6% iron. 2.5 gallons for $29.95 at Tractor Supply.


I glad I read this. I going to try this instead of the Greene product from green county.


----------



## deeevo

So I received my 3lb bag of feature but I am trying to understand how to calculate how much N will go down on my 4000sf lawn @ 2oz of dry product per 1000. I guess the dry to liquid conversion is eating my brain.


----------



## Delmarva Keith

deeevo said:


> So I received my 3lb bag of feature but I am trying to understand how to calculate how much N will go down on my 4000sf lawn @ 2oz of dry product per 1000. I guess the dry to liquid conversion is eating my brain.


If my google foo is up to snuff, Feature dry is 6-0-0. So 6% of the 2 oz by weight is N. 6% of 2 oz = 0.12 oz or 0.0075 lb of N per 1,000. Negligible. It may be included as just enough to help the plant take in the iron and micros foliarly.


----------



## deeevo

Delmarva Keith said:


> deeevo said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I received my 3lb bag of feature but I am trying to understand how to calculate how much N will go down on my 4000sf lawn @ 2oz of dry product per 1000. I guess the dry to liquid conversion is eating my brain.
> 
> 
> 
> If my google foo is up to snuff, Feature dry is 6-0-0. So 6% of the 2 oz by weight is N. 6% of 2 oz = 0.12 oz or 0.0075 lb of N per 1,000. Negligible. It may be included as just enough to help the plant take in the iron and micros foliarly.
Click to expand...

Thank you for this


----------



## MatthewinGA

Smells like my gym


----------



## Turftoe

Figured I would post this question here as well as the FAS topic:

I picked up a 50 pound bag of ferrous sulfate today from site one (<$22) And the guy suggested using urea 46-0-0 instead of ammonium sulfate to give nutrients as well. Does anyone have any experience with us, will it hurt my grass to mix them?


----------



## Greendoc

Urea will not do the same thing as AS. Urea also works differently in the soil as well.


----------



## g-man

Did they guy at site one explain why?


----------



## Turftoe

He said that with ammonium sulfate I'm not giving the turf any nutrients. If I were to put down urea it would provide nutrients as well as give the turf a deep green color. At the time I wasn't sure if he was just trying to get me to buy more (they didn't have AS but Urea was in stock).


----------



## Greendoc

WOW. Misinformation. Urea only supplies N. Ammonium Sulfate also supplies Sulfur, an important plant nutrient.


----------



## RandyMan

Turftoe said:


> He said that with ammonium sulfate I'm not giving the turf any nutrients. If I were to put down urea it would provide nutrients as well as give the turf a deep green color. At the time I wasn't sure if he was just trying to get me to buy more (they didn't have AS but Urea was in stock).


Was it the one near chattanooga, tn?I was up there a couple of weeks ago and got some misinformation too


----------



## Turftoe

Greendoc said:


> WOW. Misinformation. Urea only supplies N. Ammonium Sulfate also supplies Sulfur, an important plant nutrient.


That's what I thought, but I don't want to be that guy who flat out tells people they're wrong. Thanks for the info :thumbup:


----------



## Turftoe

RandyMan said:


> Turftoe said:
> 
> 
> 
> He said that with ammonium sulfate I'm not giving the turf any nutrients. If I were to put down urea it would provide nutrients as well as give the turf a deep green color. At the time I wasn't sure if he was just trying to get me to buy more (they didn't have AS but Urea was in stock).
> 
> 
> 
> Was it the one near chattanooga, tn?I was up there a couple of weeks ago and got some misinformation too
Click to expand...

No it was here in Ga. Just proves that I need to keep learning as much as I can and base it on facts and proven information and not what I hear from others. I'm thankful for this forum and all the helpful information from so many knowledgeable people.


----------



## Greendoc

Ferrous Sulfate must also never be applied with fertilizers containing P or Ca. Reaction will create a brick at the bottom of your sprayer.


----------



## Turftoe

Greendoc said:


> Ferrous Sulfate must also never be applied with fertilizers containing P or Ca. Reaction will create a brick at the bottom of your sprayer.


Good to know. I will be sure to only mix FAS. Thanks for the info!


----------



## g-man

My approach is to state what I need. If they offer something else, just say, but I need AS.

I have to think of the formulas, but I think there is a reason for using AS instead of urea. It is too late to think of chemistry.


----------



## Greendoc

That is because Ferrous Sulfate is not stable in neutral or alkaline solutions. AS makes water pH 5. Urea is totally neutral.


----------



## Bunnysarefat

Is this a good iron source? Was thinking about mixing this with 0.1 lb of urea/1k for bermuda. .https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VDHA16W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_t9iuBb7CJVGZE


----------



## w0lfe

Southern Ag granules says that it lowers PH? Is there something specifically in it that lowers the PH, or do all iron treatments lower it?

https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Iron-Granules-Pound/dp/B004QIZPFM/ref=asc_df_B004QIZPFM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198074405649&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15275385336772665990&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026282&hvtargid=aud-467077737785la-324650015710&psc=1


----------



## Ridgerunner

If memory serves, it's due to the oxidation (rusting, a chemical process) of the iron. The acidifying affect of iron sulfate (the most common iron amendment source) is only halve that of urea (a biological process) pound for pound.


----------



## slash8118

Do you guys use surfactant with FEature, if not spraying with PGR?


----------



## slash8118

slash8118 said:


> Do you guys use surfactant with FEature, if not spraying with PGR?


I just sprayed and did not use a surfactant. It seemed to foam up on its own. I tank mixed with Dimension and my sprayer started clogging after about 2 gallons. I don't think the FEature fully dissolved or it did not like being tank mixed with the pre-emergent. Is there special instructions for mixing up the FEature? I thought i shook the sprayer up pretty well, but there were still a lot of "grains" floating around when i opened up the tank to see what was doing the clogging


----------



## slash8118

slash8118 said:


> slash8118 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys use surfactant with FEature, if not spraying with PGR?
> 
> 
> 
> I just sprayed and did not use a surfactant. It seemed to foam up on its own. I tank mixed with Dimension and my sprayer started clogging after about 2 gallons. I don't think the FEature fully dissolved or it did not like being tank mixed with the pre-emergent. Is there special instructions for mixing up the FEature? I thought i shook the sprayer up pretty well, but there were still a lot of "grains" floating around when i opened up the tank to see what was doing the clogging
Click to expand...

I finally sprayed FEature again. It's very important to mix the FEature up first before adding other chemicals, AS THE LABEL STATES :lol:

Still unclear if surfactant needs to be added though...


----------



## TN Hawkeye

slash8118 said:


> slash8118 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> slash8118 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys use surfactant with FEature, if not spraying with PGR?
> 
> 
> 
> I just sprayed and did not use a surfactant. It seemed to foam up on its own. I tank mixed with Dimension and my sprayer started clogging after about 2 gallons. I don't think the FEature fully dissolved or it did not like being tank mixed with the pre-emergent. Is there special instructions for mixing up the FEature? I thought i shook the sprayer up pretty well, but there were still a lot of "grains" floating around when i opened up the tank to see what was doing the clogging
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I finally sprayed FEature again. It's very important to mix the FEature up first before adding other chemicals, AS THE LABEL STATES :lol:
> 
> Still unclear if surfactant needs to be added though...
Click to expand...

Get you a paint mixer from Lowe's or Home Depot. They look like a rubber whisk kind of thing on a shaft that goes on a drill. Just have the drill on low or barely pull the trigger. I learned after I treated my driveway to a pre-emergent dose.


----------



## w0lfe

I'm curious when everyone starts putting down feature and/or iron during the season? I've spoon fed mine some urea over the weekend, but am wondering if people have a general rule of thumb on when to apply iron.


----------



## Wfrobinette

On cool season I always applied espoma iron-tone in July.

This stuff is organic and will not stain concrete.

I plan to try it out on my Bermuda in July as well.


----------



## jasonbraswell

reviving a thread here for a question. 
What is the oz/gal ratio if the directions give you this instruction?

General turf: 2-4 oz. / 1,000 ft2
in sufficient carrier to get uniform coverage


----------



## dtillman5

jasonbraswell said:


> reviving a thread here for a question.
> What is the oz/gal ratio if the directions give you this instruction?
> 
> General turf: 2-4 oz. / 1,000 ft2
> in sufficient carrier to get uniform coverage


How much are you covering when spraying one gallon with your sprayer? You need to know this to get a good answer. I have a 4 gallon sprayer and cover about 1000 square feet per gallon. So for me your formula would be 8-16 oz dissolved into my 4 gallon tank to apply 2-4 oz per 1000. This could be totally different in your sprayer set up. You can always put plain water in your tank and spay it over an area to see how far you get with a gallon.

What size sprayer ( in gallons) are you using, what type, battery, hand pump? 
How many sq ft do you cover with 1 gallon?
Do you have a good fan nozzle for your sprayer? TeeJet nozzle etc?


----------



## jasonbraswell

I am getting this sprayer https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200646314_200646314

Digging into the Q&A section more, I have read the following from the mfg:
"The NorthStar Tow-Behind Boom Broadcast and Spot Sprayer will put out 23.8 gallons per acre at 40 psi with a spray height of 21 inches traveling at 5 mph. This is based on a 40 inch spacing."

This sounds like 1/2 gallon per k and 4-8 oz per gallon. 
Is that correct?


----------



## NorCalTrav

Fyi: I found feature in stock at Nutrien Ag Solutions. Seems like they have stores all over the country:


----------



## corneliani

NorCalTrav said:


> Fyi: I found feature in stock at Nutrien Ag Solutions. Seems like they have stores all over the country:


The location closest to me told me they don't stock it... gave me their distributor's # instead. DIdn't seem like they even want to deal with turf. Curious if anyone else tried and succeeded. In the meantime Main Event seems to be the next-closest replacement. There are a few mentions on this board of how/where to get some.


----------



## kg70041

Most of the Nutrien locations deal with row crops/farmers but there are a few Turf/Ornamental locations. They might not have access to the product in their systems.

Spoke with one of the Nutrien locations just outside of Charlotte and they're sourcing the Feature from a branch in Maryland. However I don't think they're too fond of trying to break a box open to grab a few bags.


----------



## NorCalTrav

My local store here in Sacramento, CA said they have it in stock & there is no issue with selling to me (homeowner, without an account). Hopefully you guys can track some down, its one of my favorite products.


----------



## NorCalTrav

Just called my local store back, she said there is no issue buying 1 bag of feature & they will ship if you want:
Nutrien Ag Solutions
Rancho Cordova, CA
916-369-2891


----------



## Matthew_73

So I am confused, I have been living in this state for 6 months, as I am getting my feet wet/green from lawn care knowledge... I see microgreen/greenepunch FAS, Ironite, Chelated, Milo and other products to get the yard, growing and greener... Pound for Pound, simplest to Somewhat cost effective, what would you recommend for a Cool Season Lawn....


----------



## MatthewinGA

w0lfe said:


> So does anyone know if this will remedy yellowing from herbicide?


The Greene EFfect 7-0-0 helped with some of the discoloring from T-Nex. I also cut the rate of T-Nex down (Per John Ware).

It has seemed to me that the EFfect 7-0-0 has not lasted as long as other brands that I have used in years past.

Mine only seems to last basically 1 week. I cut on Mondays, spray on Tuesday at 6am and by the next Monday after the cut the fake green is gone. I heard it's supposed to last 5 weeks...

After 250 hours GDD I spray T-Nex and Fe+ again.


----------



## sabanist

raymond said:


> What do yall think about Southern Ag Chelated Liquid Iron? https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TJXA8FXGEC7VSGKAQDZF


I used this on 2 month old zoysia with outstanding results


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## Mewwwda

I have granular N, 33-0-0.

How soon, before or after, can I put this down with a FEature app?

Same question for mowing, is it better to mow before or after I spray FEature?


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## corneliani

Mewwwda said:


> I have granular N, 33-0-0.
> 
> How soon, before or after, can I put this down with a FEature app?
> 
> Same question for mowing, is it better to mow before or after I spray FEature?


You can apply it simultaneously. Mow first, spread the granular fert, and spray your iron application over the top.


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## Texas_Bermuda

Greendoc said:


> The green I get from FEature is from spraying 10-12 times in a year at 2 oz per 1000 sq ft minimum. If I am applying to a lawn that is growing on soil with a pH above 7, that rate is increased to 3-4 oz per 1000 sq ft. This is only to be done to lawns that were previously irrigated in the last 1`2 hours to minimize the chance of burning. Liquid fertilizers will scorch turf that is dry at time of application.


 @Greendoc you might have solved my head scratcher of the season! I applied a mix of FEature, AMS and PGR in late June and this happened. Been stressing the last 2 months over what happened. maybe the grass was dry. Per your advice, water 1-2 hours before applying (check), and question, should I water again 4 hours later or now it off (have heard that suggested).

Post June application


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## gooodawgs

Im spraying FEature for the first time this week. Trying to get my backyard ready for a party on Sunday. If I mow Friday and apply PGR+FEature Saturday morning does that give it enough time to show results?

Or should I apply it Friday? I'd like to cut again on Sunday but not sure if that will just chop off the new color - or is that not an issue?


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## corneliani

gooodawgs said:


> Im spraying FEature for the first time this week. Trying to get my backyard ready for a party on Sunday. If I mow Friday and apply PGR+FEature Saturday morning does that give it enough time to show results?
> 
> Or should I apply it Friday? I'd like to cut again on Sunday but not sure if that will just chop off the new color - or is that not an issue?


I personally would spray late on Friday, but don't expect to see a huge discernible difference. It all depends on the state of your turf and it's micronutrient deficiency. We have to remember that this is a game of finding & playing to our least common denominator.

When you cut again on Sat you'll only take the tips off anyhow so nothing to worry about there either.


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## JayGo

Greendoc said:


> The green I get from FEature is from spraying 10-12 times in a year at 2 oz per 1000 sq ft minimum. If I am applying to a lawn that is growing on soil with a pH above 7, that rate is increased to 3-4 oz per 1000 sq ft. This is only to be done to lawns that were previously irrigated in the last 1`2 hours to minimize the chance of burning. Liquid fertilizers will scorch turf that is dry at time of application.


That last part is pretty dang important to know. That should be the first thing every noob should be told when they come on here looking to get into the liquid fert-squirt game.
Thanks for the tip, Rey.


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## gooodawgs

@Greendoc So does the green up remain after the first cut? Is the green just at the top or will it last a several days in the blade while it's growing?


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## Mightyquinn

gooodawgs said:


> @Greendoc So does the green up remain after the first cut? Is the green just at the top or will it last a several days in the blade while it's growing?


It's all dependent on your soil, how much you applied and how much your grass was lacking the iron. It should last for a few cuts after application.


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## Greendoc

gooodawgs said:


> @Greendoc So does the green up remain after the first cut? Is the green just at the top or will it last a several days in the blade while it's growing?


The green is throughout the grass because it is correcting a deficiency if you have one. That blue color of grass treated with Iron you see on youtube is due to misuse of Iron to not correct a deficiency but to force that un natural color. Grass should be green not blue.


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## Texas_Bermuda

JayGo said:


> Greendoc said:
> 
> 
> 
> The green I get from FEature is from spraying 10-12 times in a year at 2 oz per 1000 sq ft minimum. If I am applying to a lawn that is growing on soil with a pH above 7, that rate is increased to 3-4 oz per 1000 sq ft. This is only to be done to lawns that were previously irrigated in the last 1`2 hours to minimize the chance of burning. Liquid fertilizers will scorch turf that is dry at time of application.
> 
> 
> 
> That last part is pretty dang important to know. That should be the first thing every noob should be told when they come on here looking to get into the liquid fert-squirt game.
> Thanks for the tip, Rey.
Click to expand...

I'm planning to apply tank mix of AMS and FEature to my wide blade zoysia in high ph soil. Last season I'm sure I burned the grass never ID why. Might be because I didn't know to wet grass prior. When wetting the grass before applying, what's the ideal? does it need to be deeply watered and still wet or something different?


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## JERSEY

I think the point is the grass needs to be hydrated......ie after good rains...or under 80f.


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## corneliani

Greendoc said:


> gooodawgs said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Greendoc So does the green up remain after the first cut? Is the green just at the top or will it last a several days in the blade while it's growing?
> 
> 
> 
> The green is throughout the grass because it is correcting a deficiency if you have one. That blue color of grass treated with Iron you see on youtube is due to misuse of Iron to not correct a deficiency but to force that un natural color. Grass should be green not blue.
Click to expand...

Great point right there. I remember my first feature app just totally transforming my Bermuda color, but subsequent apps have never really given the same color response. 
On my fescue I applied a high rate of soluble SOP last month and it gave me a greenup like I never thought possible! Mind you I've been spraying ferrous sulfate every 2-3 weeks so it's got good color to start, but that SOP deficiency was made obvious once I fed it some. 
Short of spraying lawn dye your results will only be as drastic as your deficiencies.


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## JERSEY

On that note, ive heard people saying color pop on lime.
Go figure


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## Greendoc

JERSEY said:


> On that note, ive heard people saying color pop on lime.
> Go figure


I have seen that too. Correcting deficiencies and pH issues gets grass greener over the long term rather than throwing the kitchen sink at it. Iron does less for me on an acidic soil than liming up to pH 6.5.


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## drewwitt

Greendoc said:


> JERSEY said:
> 
> 
> 
> On that note, ive heard people saying color pop on lime.
> Go figure
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen that too. Correcting deficiencies and pH issues gets grass greener over the long term rather than throwing the kitchen sink at it. Iron does less for me on an acidic soil than liming up to pH 6.5.
Click to expand...

We need a TLF shirt that says "liming up to 6.5" - Greendoc


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## JERSEY

Greendoc said:


> JERSEY said:
> 
> 
> 
> On that note, ive heard people saying color pop on lime.
> Go figure
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen that too. Correcting deficiencies and pH issues gets grass greener over the long term rather than throwing the kitchen sink at it. Iron does less for me on an acidic soil than liming up to pH 6.5.
Click to expand...

greendoc

do have any issues liming going into heat on cool season turf?


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## Greendoc

JERSEY said:


> Greendoc said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JERSEY said:
> 
> 
> 
> On that note, ive heard people saying color pop on lime.
> Go figure
> 
> 
> 
> I have seen that too. Correcting deficiencies and pH issues gets grass greener over the long term rather than throwing the kitchen sink at it. Iron does less for me on an acidic soil than liming up to pH 6.5.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> greendoc
> 
> do have any issues liming going into heat on cool season turf?
Click to expand...

No issues with lime as long as there is the water to go with it. Up to 25 lb per 1000 sq ft of prilled finely ground lime is not a problem.


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## jasonbraswell

This was at the local co-op for $40.
Decided to pick up a jug and see how it does compared to chelated I put out last year.
Getting iron on 2+ acres for $40 is budget friendly for the big lot guys. :mrgreen: 
https://www.domyown.com/msds/FERROMECACPRODUCTSHEET.pdf


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## adidasUNT8

I always thought it was apply to the grass in the evening and then water it in the next morning. Is that worse than watering it before? Seems like watering it before would keep it on the blade longer which would encourage the heat to cause it to burn? I'm not foliar genius though.


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## corneliani

jasonbraswell said:


> This was at the local co-op for $40.
> Decided to pick up a jug and see how it does compared to chelated I put out last year.
> Getting iron on 2+ acres for $40 is budget friendly for the big lot guys. :mrgreen:
> https://www.domyown.com/msds/FERROMECACPRODUCTSHEET.pdf


I mix this exact solution as my FAS equivalent, being aware that it's not chelated and it can react with both the water solution I use and especially the soil biology once it gets watered in... but if you keep it as a foliar spray then all you need to worry about is your water hardness/pH so that it doesn't oxidize.

Btw if you want to mix your own just find some soluble Ferrous Sulfate Heptahydrate and some soluble Urea. For under $100 you'll have enough for a couple seasons. Here's what I use:
https://www.siteone.com/en/001482-ferrous-sulfate-micronutrient-20fe-sprayable-50-lb/p/3019

And here's the SDS details on what the FerromecAC product uses in their mix:


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## jasonbraswell

corneliani said:


> jasonbraswell said:
> 
> 
> 
> This was at the local co-op for $40.
> Decided to pick up a jug and see how it does compared to chelated I put out last year.
> Getting iron on 2+ acres for $40 is budget friendly for the big lot guys. :mrgreen:
> https://www.domyown.com/msds/FERROMECACPRODUCTSHEET.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> I mix this exact solution as my FAS equivalent, being aware that it's not chelated and it can react with both the water solution I use and especially the soil biology once it gets watered in... but if you keep it as a foliar spray then all you need to worry about is your water hardness/pH so that it doesn't oxidize.
> 
> Btw if you want to mix your own just find some soluble Ferrous Sulfate Heptahydrate and some soluble Urea. For under $100 you'll have enough for a couple seasons. Here's what I use:
> https://www.siteone.com/en/001482-ferrous-sulfate-micronutrient-20fe-sprayable-50-lb/p/3019
> 
> And here's the SDS details on what the FerromecAC product uses in their mix:
Click to expand...

That's great info.
Last night, I was thinking after spraying the 2 gallons (~gal AI/acre) how many pounds of N did I just put down.
My head started to hurt so I opened a beer. :lol: 
My tap water is not hard and I irrigate with lake reservoir water.

The liquid ready to go was really convenient nd worth the extra few bucks IMO. 
I have had some sprayers get clogged recently when I dissolved AS or some aged chelated and it's the most annoying thing.


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