# Overseeded this fall stil have some bare spots



## MChang (Aug 8, 2021)

I over seeded this fall and it did a good job. We added a sprinkler system this summer so going into next year expectation is it will keep looking good. I had sprayed some quack grass during the summer to kill it knowing I was going to over seed. I screwed up and used some stuff the prevents grass from growing for 6 months. Duh! I tried to seed this again, but nothing came up, may have gotten to cold to germinate.

So the big questions is, do I go ahead and put down pre-emergent fertilizer in the spring and just give up on patching these til next fall or skip the pre-emergent and path the bare spots and deal with the weeds during the summer? I am leaning towards skipping the pre-emergent, and patching the spots this spring.

Thanks.

Brian


----------



## Oyster Shark (Aug 24, 2020)

Seed as early as possible. Apply pre-emergent. How big are the spots, what kind of grass and where do you live?


----------



## thin_concrete (Sep 11, 2020)

You can use something like mesotrione (Tenacity) as a preemergent at seeding, though it won't last as long as a prodiamine application. Maybe doing that can kill two birds with one stone. After 60 days or so, you can put down prodiamine for longer preemergent control, but by then the soil temperatures will limit its efficacy.


----------



## MChang (Aug 8, 2021)

Oyster Shark said:


> Seed as early as possible. Apply pre-emergent. How big are the spots, what kind of grass and where do you live?


Smaller 6-12" diameter one maybe 2ft. Indianapolis, Combination of bluegrass and fescue. Thanks Brian


----------



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

Put down pre-M everywhere except where you're Spring seeding. Leave about 6 inches around each spot in case. Then apply a pre-M once you're able again. It's really that simple.


----------



## MChang (Aug 8, 2021)

Green said:


> Put down pre-M everywhere except where you're Spring seeding. Leave about 6 inches around each spot in case. Then apply a pre-M once you're able again. It's really that simple.


To much to control in this way. I would be unable to control using a broadcast spreader. thanks brian


----------



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

MChang said:


> Green said:
> 
> 
> > Put down pre-M everywhere except where you're Spring seeding. Leave about 6 inches around each spot in case. Then apply a pre-M once you're able again. It's really that simple.
> ...


It can be done.


----------



## MChang (Aug 8, 2021)

Green said:


> MChang said:
> 
> 
> > Green said:
> ...


Not for me.


----------



## macattack (Nov 2, 2020)

Use a cardboard box as a barrier/shield for those areas you want to seed next year, when applying the pre-emergent. Depend on how big or small these areas are, but after watering in, the pre-emergent doesn't migrate far in the soil. Enough to seed.


----------



## Kissfromnick (Mar 25, 2019)

Why not to do dormant seeding or light top dressing with soil after spring pre-m and then seeding.


----------



## BurtMacklinFBI (Jul 17, 2021)

I'm in the same boat as you and asked the same question haha. Last year I skipped overseeding till fall and laid down a pre-emergent. I have thin areas not patches and honestly the lawn looked great all summer going thus route (once it greened up and got thicker) Then fall came and I did my usual overseed which helped a lot.

Now after this falls overseed, I found a lot more thin areas (because I brought in a lot of top soil to level out certain areas which got seeded when I did the overseed) So I'm in the same boat again this year haha. This spring I'm just gonna get seed down as early as possible, I have Tenacity on hand ready to go down at the same time as the seed.

Due to how the thin areas are, its just impossible for me to avoid those areas with pre-emergent and overseed at the same time. I have all winter to figure out the exacts but once the seed is established I'll be following up with prodiamine. Just gatta sit down and read my labels and write up a schedule.


----------

