# Is it worth paying for premium seed



## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

So, I need to plant a small section in my back yard, but in the process I was thinking about overseeding the front.

At the moment, I have siteone 50/50 blend in my front yard and overall it is good. I have a few patches that are darker as it seems they are kbg only, which is OK, but I was thinking to do a full overseed as a way to help maybe reset things.

So, with the work in the back and the over seeding in the front, I need to buy seed. As a majority will end up in the front, I plan to purchase based on that. So I am curious, is it worth overseeding a different more expensive seed blend than what is already established as a majority? Or should I just go get the siteone 50/50 and be done with it?

Reading on some of the premium seeds they mention being good for 3/4 to 2", I am currently at 3.5. For the over seed I do plan to cut it down, but if my established height is over the target of the premium seed, I fear I would be wasting money on going with anything other than the already existing 50/50 blend. However, I still wanted to ask to see if I would benefit from throwing a blend containing things like midnight kbg.


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## badtlc (Aug 22, 2019)

If you are going to cut at 3.5" I think it is a very good idea to be overseeding with grasses that will thrive at that height. That is a relatively tall HOC so I would make sure to avoid anything with dwarf type TTTF and I don't think all KBG likes being cut that high.


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## OnTheLawn (Jul 23, 2020)

I would say yes for the simple fact that elite cultivars - often found at boutique suppliers - will have 0% seed seed and 0% other crop in the bag. Even if an analysis shows 0.2% weed seed, there are millions of seeds on a bag, so you will be throwing down weeds. Unless of course the Site One 50/50 is weed/crop seed free. However, at that HOC you're going to want to look into a turf type tall fescue if that's where you want to be. I would check out seed superstore.com, plug in your zip code, and go based on their recommendation for the grass type for your zone.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

OnTheLawn said:


> I would say yes for the simple fact that elite cultivars - often found at boutique suppliers - will have 0% seed seed and 0% other crop in the bag. Even if an analysis shows 0.2% weed seed, there are millions of seeds on a bag, so you will be throwing down weeds. Unless of course the Site One 50/50 is weed/crop seed free. However, at that HOC you're going to want to look into a turf type tall fescue if that's where you want to be. I would check out seed superstore.com, plug in your zip code, and go based on their recommendation for the grass type for your zone.


The recommended their blend with like 3 kbg types a tttf and rye.

Call me crazy, but do I want tttf in my 50/50.

Im aware of the clumping wide blade fescue that's ugly as sin, so I get nervous around fescue in general.


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## OnTheLawn (Jul 23, 2020)

kolbasz said:


> OnTheLawn said:
> 
> 
> > I would say yes for the simple fact that elite cultivars - often found at boutique suppliers - will have 0% seed seed and 0% other crop in the bag. Even if an analysis shows 0.2% weed seed, there are millions of seeds on a bag, so you will be throwing down weeds. Unless of course the Site One 50/50 is weed/crop seed free. However, at that HOC you're going to want to look into a turf type tall fescue if that's where you want to be. I would check out seed superstore.com, plug in your zip code, and go based on their recommendation for the grass type for your zone.
> ...


If it's the 50/50 I believe you're thinking about (50% rye - 50% KBG), then yea it would be fine. Most of the newer high end cultivars are thinner bladed and don't have the appearance of traditional TTTF. Based on your zone they may be recommending that to combat some summer/heat stress and it will also do better at the higher HOC. However, if you're happy with the 50/50 then maybe just look at adding in a high end blend of KBG and rye. If you're planning on going lower with your cut then both are a good option. But with the TTTF in the SSS blend I think you'd be okay at around 2" HOC. I would just read about the different cultivars and how each perform and what areas they excel in.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

In the summer heat I go 3-3.5, but spring and fall 2-2.5" is usually my spot so maybe I do just go with a 50/50, or 70/30 I saw with one of the other suppliers


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## 440mag (Jan 29, 2018)

OnTheLawn said:


> ... Even if an analysis shows 0.2% weed seed, there are millions of seeds on a bag, so you will be throwing down weeds. ...


^^^ this, This, THIS! ^^^

It only took me 3 years to realize how bad friends and I've been shooting ourselves in the foot, not paying up front for 0.000% weed or "other" seed. And to see I was spending WAY more on herbicides and Pre-emergents than I was settling for even 0.001 weed seed content.

Best o' Success, whichever you decide to buy! :thumbup:


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## OnTheLawn (Jul 23, 2020)

kolbasz said:


> In the summer heat I go 3-3.5, but spring and fall 2-2.5" is usually my spot so maybe I do just go with a 50/50, or 70/30 I saw with one of the other suppliers


Ultimately, use your eyes. If you like the way the 50/50 blend looks, how it cuts, how it does under stress, that's all that matters. If your eyes are telling you that it's working, stick with it! Having weed seeds in the mix can happen, but they're easy enough to deal with once they germinate. Then the following season just get on a pre-emergent program and you're all set.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

I think I'm just good try some mid grade see. Midnight is a bit rich for my blood, but I tell myself a good premium seed will help elevate a grass that tiny bit


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

anyone ever get the sunny mix from preferred seed?

What is "improved" KBG and Rye?


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## Sinclair (Jul 25, 2017)

Yes, getting premium seed is worth it.

Weed content aside - you can use cheap or expensive fertilizer, you can water more or less, you can use pesticides if you choose....but, once that grass has germinated you can't change the genetics without a full renovation.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I like my yard to look like sod, so I use the seed sod farms use.


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## bernstem (Jan 16, 2018)

Even modern compact KBG will do fine at 3.5 inches. Personally, I think it prefers 2-2.5, but especially in the summer 3-3.5 is fine. It is 100% worth it to pay for good seed. Once grass is established, you are stuck with it unless you kill it off which is a lot of work.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

bernstem said:


> Even modern compact KBG will do fine at 3.5 inches. Personally, I think it prefers 2-2.5, but especially in the summer 3-3.5 is fine. It is 100% worth it to pay for good seed. Once grass is established, you are stuck with it unless you kill it off which is a lot of work.


tons of work. it seems easy when you start spraying and killing, but then the real work begins if you plan to cut it out, etc.


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## Allan-00 (Aug 6, 2019)

Buying premium seed to 100% worth it. No reason to save money upfront then have to invest more money to get good performance.


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## ken-n-nancy (Jul 25, 2017)

bernstem said:


> Even modern compact KBG will do fine at 3.5 inches.


^ This ^

Just because KBG can _*tolerate*_ low mowing _*doesn't mean*_ that it _*prefers*_ being cut low. I believe this is basically true for all varieties of KBG. The growth habit will be different at different mowing heights, but the grass still grows fastest and is generally "healthiest" at high mowing heights. On seed farms (growing the grass for seed) the grass is allowed to get over a foot tall and indeed isn't mowed at all until seed harvest.

The same goes for shade-tolerant KBG, such as Bewitched. Even though it tolerates growing in the shade, it definitely prefers full sun if it can get it. I have Bewitched in both shady and sunny areas. The Bewitched tolerates the shade and looks decent from a distance in those areas, but the density and rate of growth are only a shadow of what the Bewitched is in the sunny areas -- far better in the sun, but tolerates the shade very well compared to other grasses.

But, back to the original topic... Yes, premium seed is definitely worth some extra $, both due to the better genetics (better color, better disease resistance, etc.) and also fewer weed seeds, particularly of ones that are very difficult to eliminate from your lawn, such as _Poa trivialis_ which actually isn't listed as "weed seeds" on the label, but would be listed as "other crop" (which I find really frustrating, but such is the way it is...)


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## ken-n-nancy (Jul 25, 2017)

As another example, my front lawn is a 50/50 blend of Bewitched KBG and Prosperity KBG. It currently looks great, despite the hot, dry weather of July and August.

The grass on the woods side of our driveway, though, which receives exactly the same care as the front lawn, and was renovated in 2013 with a good "northern mix," only looks good. That northern mix section of lawn still looks better than every other lawn in our neighborhood, but it is definitely a notch below the Bewitched/Prosperity KBG blend. It's enough worse that I just sprayed that section with glyphosate five days ago, and new Bewitched/Prosperity KBG seed is going down within the next five days, Lord willing.

(BTW, I'm in New Hampshire, so "hot and dry" here is nothing like it would be in most of the Midwest, but from what I've read here, the case holds in those places, too.)


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

Sinclair said:


> Yes, getting premium seed is worth it.
> 
> Weed content aside - you can use cheap or expensive fertilizer, you can water more or less, you can use pesticides if you choose....but, once that grass has germinated you can't change the genetics without a full renovation.


With this in mind, is there any benefit to overseed an established area with better premium seed? Or at that point, just seed with what is already there? Grass is in decent shape, my thought process would be that some of the more premium darker seed varieties would add a bit of color to the lawn. While it wont out compete the existing lawn, would it blend into it and improve the look?


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## ken-n-nancy (Jul 25, 2017)

kolbasz said:


> With this in mind, is there any benefit to overseed an established area with better premium seed? Or at that point, just seed with what is already there? Grass is in decent shape, my thought process would be that some of the more premium darker seed varieties would add a bit of color to the lawn. While it wont out compete the existing lawn, would it blend into it and improve the look?


A few thoughts on the above:

I have never had good success with overseeding KBG into an established lawn. The new KBG has so little energy in the tiny seeds, that the grass can only get about 1" tall before growth stalls and requires sunlight for energy and further growth waits for sufficient root development to get going again ("sprout and pout"). This is not true for perennial ryegrass or tall fescue, which have much larger seeds, and can grow to a height sufficient to start to compete with the existing grass. So, if you're overseeding KBG, I think you'll not get much of the new grass. Overseeding PRG or TTTF is generally successful.
Seeding a darker grass into an existing lawn leads to a mixed variety of colors, which will generally be splotchy. Most people finds that it looks worse than it did before.
If you have "grass in decent shape" with your current lawn, then the first step to get it to look better is to "up the game" on taking care of it -- mowing habits, watering, fertilization, etc. If you've already done that, and it still looks to you that it is only "in decent shape" then to go to the next level, you'll need to kill the existing grass and replace all the grass with a variety that has better genetics. Overseeding a better grass won't give you the results you seek. Those of us that have been on these forums for a while have heard of it happening dozens and dozens of times (if not hundreds...)


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

ken-n-nancy said:


> kolbasz said:
> 
> 
> > With this in mind, is there any benefit to overseed an established area with better premium seed? Or at that point, just seed with what is already there? Grass is in decent shape, my thought process would be that some of the more premium darker seed varieties would add a bit of color to the lawn. While it wont out compete the existing lawn, would it blend into it and improve the look?
> ...


OK, the reality is, the lawn is good when it wants to be. It has its moments if you will. (08/15)



With that said, when it wants to feel ill, it looks ill. After the photo on the 15th, so the 16th, I noticed some fungus making things look fugly. I actually got some PPZ down a few days before, so I hopefully am just waiting at this point.

last night, I mowed it down a bit to cut some fungus out, bagging the clippings etc.



Keep in mind I had the sun for one and none for the other, but it just looks blah all of a sudden. So I threw some fert down and am watering at the moment so hopefully it pops back up.

As for my thoughts on over seeding, I guess I technically dont need it, just thought it would add darker more efficient grass to what is there, but after your sprout and pout comment I will avoid the idea.

I had planned to mow down to 1-1/4", add PGR, but it seems it is not worth it. I will instead focus on the areas I have crap grass, bent, nimblewill, poa t, kill them and re-seed with the same 50/50 from siteone. Based on the comments, that seems to make the most sense for me at this point.

Even the area in the back that I need to newly seed around the patio we put in, randomly having a single large section of something premium and dark does not seem to make a ton of sense. Although maybe it is a decent opportunity to try some tttf. I always thought rbg/rye, but tttf get a lot of talk on here too. Its the back yard so I am more open to playing. Or, I just do the 50/50 and stop over thinking it


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## KoopHawk (May 28, 2019)

ken-n-nancy said:


> bernstem said:
> 
> 
> > Even modern compact KBG will do fine at 3.5 inches.
> ...


I believe that someone posted a study in another thread that showed much greater disease resistance when an elite, low mow KBG cultivator was cut at 3" versus 1.5".


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

KoopHawk said:


> ken-n-nancy said:
> 
> 
> > bernstem said:
> ...


That's most interesting as I do get hit with disease once a season usually, but my kbg is not elite


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

ken-n-nancy said:


> kolbasz said:
> 
> 
> > With this in mind, is there any benefit to overseed an established area with better premium seed? Or at that point, just seed with what is already there? Grass is in decent shape, my thought process would be that some of the more premium darker seed varieties would add a bit of color to the lawn. While it wont out compete the existing lawn, would it blend into it and improve the look?
> ...


One interesting question. What if I abandoned kbg and only over seeded rye grass? I believe I have read that the rye will simply out compete the existing kbg? Is that accurate or do I have it reversed? Or would that be a stupid idea anyway?


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## ken-n-nancy (Jul 25, 2017)

kolbasz said:


> ken-n-nancy said:
> 
> 
> > A few thoughts ...
> ...


Overseeding perennial ryegrass (PRG) is a common practice and can give excellent results. With some recent varieties of PRG being very dark, and the ability to go from new seed to "practically established" in less than a month, some sports fields are now starting to be exclusively PRG.

My only caution with overseeding PRG into KBG is that there weren't be any going back if you don't like the results, apart from doing a subsequent renovation. So it's important you're aware of some of the potential downsides of PRG, before you are committed to keeping it for a while.

My suggestion, if you're thinking of doing this would be to try it on a small section for a year and see if you like the results. One potential issue with PRG are that it is more prone to winterkill than KBG, so in more northern areas it dies too much during the winter. However, I don't know Cleveland winters well enough to know if it would work in your area.

PRG also doesn't spread at all, so one has to rely on re-seeding to recover from winterkill or die-off from the heat. PRG grows so quickly from seed that this is a viable strategy. However, it also means that one has to choose between being able to re-seed and or being able to apply pre-emergents to prevent annual weeds such as crab grass or _Poa annua_.

If after exploring more about the option, you're thinking it's something you may want to do, I'd suggest trying it out on a small section of your current lawn this fall (now is about the perfect time to sow PRG) to see how it goes.


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## rjjrmiller (Jun 4, 2020)

Does anyone know what cultivars are sold by big box store brands like Scotts?

I have Falcon IV and Arid 3 along with some Midnight for my most serious overseeding on about 30% of my back yard with timers for watering and cutting short, tenacity then top dress with compost, seeding and covering with Peat moss. It will be mostly TTTF Falcon IV. I do wonder what big box stores sell, I suspect they have upgraded cultivars at least a little over the years.


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

g-man said:


> I like my yard to look like sod, so I use the seed sod farms use.


Why?

I have no opinion about your preference, however I am trying to learn about why you have the preference to add to my knowledge base.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

ken-n-nancy said:


> kolbasz said:
> 
> 
> > ken-n-nancy said:
> ...


So the lawn was a 50/50 blue rye mix. I have the bits I Believe are kbg. But after that I'm a but lost. I don't know what is rye. But I know the parts that are bent or poa a/t for instance the are not desirable.

I have to plant some seed in the back, perhaps I do a kbg only section, rye and than a mix of the two.

Question now is deciding on seed source. Even 5# at sss is 85$ making trying it difficult.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

ken-n-nancy said:


> ^ This ^
> 
> Just because KBG can _*tolerate*_ low mowing _*doesn't mean*_ that it _*prefers*_ being cut low. I believe this is basically true for all varieties of KBG. The growth habit will be different at different mowing heights, but the grass still grows fastest and is generally "healthiest" at high mowing heights. On seed farms (growing the grass for seed) the grass is allowed to get over a foot tall and indeed isn't mowed at all until seed harvest.


I know this goes against common observations, but I'm currently mowing at 4 inches still from Summer, and am getting better fill-in of bare spots than at lower heights, for whatever reason. So, I'm not going to reduce the height much in the areas I need spreading until things close up a bit more. Don't ask me why this is happening...couldn't tell you. The lawn area in question is a KBG/PRG mix with mid and upper end cultivars. So very relevant to this topic.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

@kolbasz, telling PR from KBG usually easy. You can typically see veins in the ryegrass blade, whereas you cannot on the KBG.

Your lawn appears to be made of upper level, dark green cultivars. It does not really matter if you overseed with similar or slightly darker cultivars in this case. Close enough.

But it looks dense, so there is no reason to overseed unless it thins in areas that you didn't show in the photos. Even then, just overseed those areas. And use a similar mix to what you have. Don't overthink it!

If you overseed with Ryegrass seed over and over again, it indeed is likely you will outcompete the KBG over time. You might also create too dense a lawn and invite more Summer disease. Why go there?

With Ryegrass or a mix with a lot of ryegrass like you have, the trick is to keep it fertilized well except during the Summer, use fungicides if needed (biological ones are good for prevention and environmentally friendly), and water frequently enough in the morning during hot, dry weather.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

If the patio area is shaded part of the year, go TTTF or a mix with TTTF in it for sure.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

rjjrmiller said:


> Does anyone know what cultivars are sold by big box store brands like Scotts?.


It varies by batch. In Scotts seed, I've seen labels with very new, top-end PR cultivars like Apple 3GL, and older mid-range ones from the 1990s and 2000s...sometimes in the same bag.

FYI: Scotts marks all their coated seed as 0.01% weed to cover themselves legally.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

Green said:


> If the patio area is shaded part of the year, go TTTF or a mix with TTTF in it for sure.


Sun till about 2-3 in summer


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

@turfnsurf sod looks nice without weeds, uniform color, normally dark green. People pay $1/sqft or more for sod to be installed, why not try to copy it?


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## KoopHawk (May 28, 2019)

I believe the old adage "You get what you pay for" applies here.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

Green said:


> @kolbasz, telling PR from KBG usually easy. You can typically see veins in the ryegrass blade, whereas you cannot on the KBG.
> 
> Your lawn appears to be made of upper level, dark green cultivars. It does not really matter if you overseed with similar or slightly darker cultivars in this case. Close enough.
> 
> ...


Yeah so the super dense super thin bladed stuff I have is also not rye grass then either. Seems I have some work to eliminate some of the crap. I do wonder sometimes what is better. killing sections that are crap and reseeding, during which time your yard has a bunch of holes in it. Sucking it up and doing the reno or just accepting that things will always creep in and just deal with them as best you can.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

gonna stop over thinking it and get this stuff locally.

25% Rockstar KBG, 25% Gateway KBG, 25% Prelude IV PRG, 25% Palmer III PRG


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

kolbasz said:


> Yeah so the super dense super thin bladed stuff I have is also not rye grass then either. Seems I have some work to eliminate some of the crap. I do wonder sometimes what is better. killing sections that are crap and reseeding, during which time your yard has a bunch of holes in it. Sucking it up and doing the reno or just accepting that things will always creep in and just deal with them as best you can.


It could be, but it could be FF, too. Sometimes they're hard to tell apart if the Ryegrass is super fine.



kolbasz said:


> gonna stop over thinking it and get this stuff locally.
> 
> 25% Rockstar KBG, 25% Gateway KBG, 25% Prelude IV PRG, 25% Palmer III PRG


Sounds good. Palmer III was one of the best, and is still not bad today. Supposed to be pretty heat/humidity tolerant. Also not super fine-bladed, so should be easier to tell it from Fine Fescue. I tried to get some this year to try, but the weed content was too high, so I didn't buy it. Still not sure what I'm buying...I need to overseed about 500 square feet later this month.

http://vistaseedpartners.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Palmer-III-Perennial-Ryegrass-Tech-Sheet.pdf

Prelude IV sounds a bit lower growing/finer and darker:
http://proseedsmarketing.com/tech-sheets/PRG/Prelude4-PRG%20.pdf

Your lawn probably has similar varieties to these already...should match ok.

Are you just overseeding/reseeding areas that will need it?


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

kolbasz said:


> Green said:
> 
> 
> > If the patio area is shaded part of the year, go TTTF or a mix with TTTF in it for sure.
> ...


Go TTTF in that area, then. Or TTTF/KBG with something like Bewitched KBG in it, which is what I have in a similar situation (or Mazama).


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

Green said:


> kolbasz said:
> 
> 
> > Yeah so the super dense super thin bladed stuff I have is also not rye grass then either. Seems I have some work to eliminate some of the crap. I do wonder sometimes what is better. killing sections that are crap and reseeding, during which time your yard has a bunch of holes in it. Sucking it up and doing the reno or just accepting that things will always creep in and just deal with them as best you can.
> ...


For now, I am just planning to seed an area in the back. Put in a patio, so need to repair the area around it.

From there, I plan to use some to fix patches, just for the time being will not be overseeding. Might just have a woopsie one day where the whole yard dies and is replaced.

I should probably ask them for the label to ensure there is not also a bunch of shit in the seed. They call it their premium blend, so I would hope not.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

Green said:


> kolbasz said:
> 
> 
> > Green said:
> ...


I wish I could go see these grasses and their texture in person. Internet and youtube are not enough. Maybe I would like TTTF, but instead I have this negative opinion of it for some reason.


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## rjjrmiller (Jun 4, 2020)

Green said:


> rjjrmiller said:
> 
> 
> > Does anyone know what cultivars are sold by big box store brands like Scotts?.
> ...


Wow! I'm Canadian and I've never seen Scotts or any big box store brand list anything about cultivars. Just seed type, and if the bag is a blend, it may not list the % of each type.
And you said "label" which made me think of the premiums Ive ordered from the USA, they have that kind of label on Scotts? We just have the back of the plastic bag.

I've done Google searches about a cultivar before ordering from seedworldusa and top of the search shows the exact cultivar being sold at wal mart!!! It was Falcon IV which in my opinion is better than big box scotts seed. I ordered some.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

@rjjrmiller,

Here are two Scotts labels from the US. The first one contains some older cultivars, common types, and ones I've never heard of:










The second bag has some of the latest top-notch Ryegrasses by Mountain View Seeds and a special-attribute KBG that is well-regarded (Jumpstart):


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

Pulled the trigger


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## ken-n-nancy (Jul 25, 2017)

kolbasz said:


> Pulled the trigger


That's a nice KBG/PRG mix. Note that if you want the Kentucky bluegrass to not be out-competed by the perennial ryegrass, it is recommended to mow closely, at 3/4", during establishment to give the bluegrass a fighting chance.

See United Seeds' page on Sure Shot R.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

ken-n-nancy said:


> kolbasz said:
> 
> 
> > Pulled the trigger
> ...


I called and spoke with Dan the manager and he told me that that isn't true and he actually wants to take it off the website.


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## Harts (May 14, 2018)

kolbasz said:


> ken-n-nancy said:
> 
> 
> > kolbasz said:
> ...


I would argue that most home owners don't have the ability to mow at 3/4" without scalping. Given the majority of the population (even on TLF) use a rotary mower, this would be next to impossible.


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## ken-n-nancy (Jul 25, 2017)

Harts said:


> kolbasz said:
> 
> 
> > ken-n-nancy said:
> ...


Harts, I fully agree with your reasoning on this. Which is why when homeowners seed and maintain a KBG / PRG mix (at heights higher than 3/4" cut height) the lawn almost invariably ends up with a higher ratio of PRG than is desired.


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## KoopHawk (May 28, 2019)

I just got done walking down the street to get the mail. We've had a wet few days here so no one has mowed for a while. I can see the PRG outgrowing the KBG in my neighbor's Northern Mix. IMO any PRG is undesirable


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

KoopHawk said:


> I just got done walking down the street to get the mail. We've had a wet few days here so no one has mowed for a while. I can see the PRG outgrowing the KBG in my neighbor's Northern Mix. IMO any PRG is undesirable


 

It's 10%,so I hope it is short lived


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## JERSEY (Sep 9, 2018)

ken-n-nancy said:


> bernstem said:
> 
> 
> > Even modern compact KBG will do fine at 3.5 inches.
> ...


I am in Full Agreement with this statement about KYB "can tolerate and prefer".
I find mine is healthier at 3 inch plus in heat....
It does look great at 2--2.5 in the spring.....and If you can keep it hydrated....and all...great.....

I cant imagine the work needed at 1 inch. Life too busy for me to do that


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

Agreed. It's fun in the spring to cut low, but then it becomes a real pain


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