# Early spring fert strategy



## All Day NPK (Feb 17, 2019)

Hello

I've been watching a lot of content by LCN and John Perry. I'm starting to see some useful guidelines and want to put some things into practice: no more than 1/2lb of N per thousand per application, start fertilizing for the season when soil is 65, and pre emergent when soil is 55.

Question: because the lawn is coming out of its winter dormancy, does it make more sense to use a slow release organic fert when the soil hits 65 as my initial application as opposed to a faster release synthetic? I'm planning to put down prodiamine about 4/15-4/20 based on temps and will put down my initial NPK a few weeks later. I'd like to follow the 1/2 lb N max guideline this year to see how things go but I'm just not sure what I should put down. I have two bags of Ringer already but I can also pick anything else up (eg Scott's from Home Depot, or LESCO from the landscape supplier store).

Anyone else in Massachusetts following a similar approach and timing?


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## jdc_lawnguy (Oct 30, 2018)

@All Day NPK I am in Mass

Your prodiamine window roughly lines up if we stay cold. If not keep an eye on temps.

I am actually planning 2 N apps in spring because I need to get down some P and K and can't really put those down without N if I don't buy the ingredients.

If I have to put down N I will put down no mor than 1 #/M before Memorial Day. What I put down will be synthetic because it won't be hot to breakdown the organics. That will likely be the extent of my N until August unless I feel like it need something.

In that case I will likely put down between 1/4 and 1/2#/M and will use organic.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

I'm a big proponent of organics for Spring use, both because of early Spring temps, and late Spring temps.


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## MassHole (Jun 27, 2018)

2016 = 10-10-10 March 12, dethatch and starter April 20, Scotts Step 1 May 17 = *gorgeous lawn * :thumbup: 
2017 = 5-10-10 April 3, Lesco 19-0-7 pre-emergent April 17, Milorganite May 16 = *gorgeous lawn* :thumbup: 
2018 = 0-0-6 prodiamine April 9, Milorganite May 7, Starter May 14 = *dull color, played catch up all summer on color* 

2019 plan = Lesco 19-0-7 pre-emergent April 5, Scotts Starter with mesotrione April 27, Screaming Green May 30 :nod:

Western Mass here.


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## Chris LI (Oct 26, 2018)

@All Day NPK

Roughly speaking, what was your fertilizer regimen last year? Did you fertilize heavy in the fall? Did you winterize? Do you or did you have a soil test done. It would be helpful to have a little more info to plan.

If you applied a decent amount of N in the fall (at least 2 lbs), you could go with a gentle N plan in the spring, as you describe. Otherwise, a little more N applied as you mention in .5 lb. increments could be helpful (unless a soil test doesn't recommend it).

I've used Espoma Lawn food 15-0-5 in the spring and fall during cooler weather. It's a hybrid fert with some conventional and some organic components. I think that it is a good bridge between conventional and organic N. 
The label rate applies .5 lbs. N. It has some iron, too. The large bag (40 lbs.) will cover 10k. I've liked it enough to use on my ballfields at work. It's easy enough for my guys to apply and less likely to burn when they whoops. It's about 51% slow release.

https://www.espoma.com/product/espoma-lawn-food/#tab2


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

@Chris LI, I have tried to figure out how much of the Espoma 15-0-5 is organic fertilizer and how much is synthetic. I have failed, including trying to decipher the label, emailing Espoma, having a garden center try to call them, posting on the forum, etc. I would appreciate your input! Here is the thread, if you have any ideas: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=5060

Thanks!


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## Chris LI (Oct 26, 2018)

Apparently, the percentages are a "trade secret", so there is no definitive way to easily determine the exact composition. I seem to remember trying to extrapolate (in a rough sense) some time ago on ATY. I looked for the data I based it on, but couldn't find anything in my files. I think that I looked at the label and might have compared it with the old MSDS. However, I can't find a record of the old MSDS, so I can't be sure. It also probably listed all components as "trade secret", anyway. From looking at the product and handling it, a high percentage appears to be the pasturized poultry manure. Looking up some info to get a general idea of content of NPK values I found that PPM typically contains 5% N and one MU product contains 40% N. Playing with a little math; if the estimates above are in the ballpark, the product is about 70% PPM and 30 % MU/Urea. (I know that I'm really winging it here, but I might be onto something). Here is the math:

.05 (N from PPM) × .70 = .035
.04 (N from MU/Urea)× .30 =.12

.035 + .12 = .155 (15.5% N)

Obviously, this is all theoretical, with me making many assumptions. When I look at and handle the product, I would estimate the N from the PPM to be at least 70%.

Also, I'm not sure how they get arrive at 0% P in the ppm. I think I read somewhere that if it is less than .0067, it gets rounded down to 0. Maybe the combination lowers it enough to call it "0".


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

Chris LI said:


> Playing with a little math; if the estimates above are in the ballpark, the product is about 70% PPM and 30 % MU/Urea. (I know that I'm really winging it here, but I might be onto something). Here is the math:
> 
> .05 (N from PPM) × .70 = .035
> .04 (N from MU/Urea)× .30 =.12
> ...


I think you're on the right track.

Here's an idea. Can we verify this in the following way?

Weigh out 1oz of the fertilizer. Manually separate the urea/methylene urea and the manure. (Is there anything else as well?) Then weigh the two piles...


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## Chris LI (Oct 26, 2018)

Nice idea! I think we can make a decent approximation using that technique. We would need to take multiple samples and average the results to make sure they aren't skewed. I'm pretty sure I could figure out what sample size we would need to have a good confidence level, but it's been 25 years since I studied statistics, so saying I'm rusty is an understatement. 

We would have to have a pile for the SOP, too. I think it's the large white particles, but I'm not sure. I haven't bought it straight before, so anyone with that info, please pipe up. The small white particles should be urea, and that should be easy to confirm white a dissolution test. The blue particles should be the MU, and we know what the brown particles are. 

I'm out of town now, but when I get back, I'll break out my mini scale that I use to measure my urea and dig into the bag of 15-0-5 stored in my shed.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

@Chris LI, SOP can look different, depending. I've had 3 different types...Large white or gray particles, small white sand, and pink sand (the small sand ones were greens grade). You should be able to tell it apart from everything else, though.

Great idea to use multiple samples to even out the error.

I don't understand how they could have under 0.0067 (percent?) P, though. That does not make sense. Even if the cutoff were like under 0.5%, it doesn't add up. Manure has a good chunk of P in it. I don't know if composting it or other processes change that. Some processes may change the weight, though (you'd think most would lower it...e.g. drying processes).

Then again, maybe the numbers will add up when all is said and done, considering that the methylene urea may be 40% N (we'll have to double check that) and regular urea is 46%...and manure is, what, 5% or less N? If half the volume of N in the bag were manure N, that would mean 1/8th or less of the total 15% N (40/5) would be from manure...under 2%. But there would still be at least 1% P, you'd think...unless they tweaked the label to pass the fertilizer laws (there may be leeway allowed for organic/synthetic hybrid products due to the variation in organics...just a guess).

Also, do you know if they go by weight when they give the percentages on the label? It can't be volume, so it must be weight.

I feel like I'm back in chemistry class, and have a separation experiment to do...


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## All Day NPK (Feb 17, 2019)

Thank you all for the feedback. Here is what I did last season to my lawn on a 10k sf lawn:


Mid April - 40lbs total (not quite a full bag) LESCO starter 18-24-12

Mid May - 50lbs total (2 bags) Ringer Lawn restore 10-0-6

Late May - 54lbs total (1.5 bags) Milo 6-4-0

Late June - 90lbs total (2.5 bags) Milo 6-4-0 + 30oz RGS + 60oz Air8

Some time in July and/or August - Put down other various amounts of RGS, Air8, and D-thatch in specific spots of the yard but I didn't record them unfortunately

Mid September - 50lb total (1 bag) LESCO Cal - 13-0-6 w/ calcium + 20lbs of Andersons Humic DG + 54lbs Magi-i-cal


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## MassHole (Jun 27, 2018)

All Day NPK said:


> Thank you all for the feedback. Here is what I did last season to my lawn on a 10k sf lawn:
> 
> 
> Mid April - 40lbs total (not quite a full bag) LESCO starter 18-24-12
> ...


No pre-emergent? Boo. Please the Lesco Starter with Lesco 19-0-7 pre-emergent.

What about Grubs? Fungus?


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## All Day NPK (Feb 17, 2019)

@MassHole

That was my fert history only. Didn't include my pre-emergents and fungicides. I have to go find my little black book I recorded things in but it was roughly this last year:


Mid April - LESCO Dimension 0.21% 0-0-7 - 25lb (half bag for first app)

Lots of spot spraying weeds via hand can with Bayer Advanced All in One Weed and Crabgrass killer (2-4,D & Quinclorac & Dicamba)

Late May / early June (?) - backpack sprayed Propiconazole 14.3 because I had what I think was red thread

Early June - LESCO Dimension 0.21% 0-0-7 - 25lb (half bag for second app)

Mid June - Merit 0.5 G granular insecticide - 15lb (half bag)

Some reno work and overseeding in fall so I did not do a fall pre-emergent. Will do one this fall though


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## All Day NPK (Feb 17, 2019)

Does anyone else have any thoughts on my original question?



> because the lawn is coming out of its winter dormancy, does it make more sense to use a slow release organic fert when the soil hits 65 as my initial application as opposed to a faster release synthetic?


I saw a mention that organic may not be best then because of lower soil temps vs summer. My assumption there is that higher temps in the soil means more microbial activity to digest the organic fert. Anyone else have an opinion on this thought and anything to back it up?

Thanks for all of the feedback!


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Did you fertilized during the fall?

I prefer to avoid fertilizing (synthetic or organic) in the spring too much. Why? 1) pushing for grow in the spring makes the grass use the carbs it build up in the fall. Those carbs are then not available during the summer. The carbs in the summer help the grass resistance. 2) you will be feeding both the grass and weeds vs starving the weed that show up in the spring. But if you notice that the lawn needs the nitrogen, then go for it. A synthetic one will be better in early spring since you will see the effect fairly fast. An organic source will need the microbes to be active to break it down and make it available. You have no control of when that will happen and I like to have control on when to hit the gas pedal (nitrogen) vs the brake (pgr) based on the current environmental conditions (temp/rain).

In Indy I normally apply PreM in late March and a low dose of nitrogen (AS) in mid May. I would then apply an organic source (cracked corn, alfalfa) in early June. I avoid any more nitrogen until August, if I can. This year, I want to try the new carbonX for this June application if I could get my hands on it.


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## GlennBlake (Feb 28, 2018)

I'm going to have my soil tested next week for the first time and will adjust my planned strategy accordingly. I've planned the following:


mid-March - 1-0-1+9Fe at 1lb/k + 6-3-36 at 5 lb/k + 3 lb/k MgSO4. Aerate with a fork

April - synthetic at 0.25 lb N/k per week. Aerate with a fork

May - organic 8-2-3+3Fe from BioFert at 0.25 lb N/k per week

June - organic 8-2-3+3Fe from BioFert at 0.25 lb N/k per week

I got the idea of my March applications after seeing a British groundskeeper I follow apply ICL's Greenmaster Pro-Lite Cold Start in early February 11-5-5+8Fe+Mg. The temperatures in England have been unseasonally high and their grass is looking amazing. We're forecast for higher than seasonal spring temperatures on Vancouver Island in around 10 days :thumbup:

I will be using my brush, scarifier and verticut cartridges regularly too as part of my cultural practices.


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## All Day NPK (Feb 17, 2019)

Thank you for the feedback. This is really helpful for me.

I am thinking I will try to avoid proactive N in spring unless I really need it. This year I'm getting my soil test to include tests for nitrates and organic matter to see what else is there. John Perry's recommendation of no more than 1/2lb of N per 1k per feeding is my north star. I'm thinking I will wait till May to even consider fertilizing with NPK (most likely just N).

In the mean time, I'll be doing Prodiamine split application (1 of 2) in April and micronutrients (based on soil test results) and RGS. I also bought some Hydretain liquid concentrate that I'm planning to try this year.


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## TaterSaladNC (Feb 1, 2019)

I'm in the transition zone and I start waking my grass up Mud-February(Soil Temps 55). I really like Hyrbrix fert that has tons of micros, humic and feeds for 3 months. This stuff is insane. My lawn get crazy thick and green then using normal fert or Milo. Depending on how much rain we get I may do a small color pop in April to get me to my next fert app May 1st.


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