# Foliar feeding Question



## Krs1 (Apr 2, 2020)

Happy 4th everyone hope you are enjoying it with friends and family While they enjoy the fruits of your labor in the yard. So how long do you let your nitrogen sit on the plant? Do you guys have any specific techniques? Is like to know about everyone's specific nitrogen foliar application. I did my first and not sure if I did it right. I sprayed it on and watered it right in, should I of let it sit overnight? I sprayed 21-0-0


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

I tend to spray with T-Nex after the irrigation system has run, so it will stay on the leaf blades for several days before getting watered in/off the leafs.


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## Groundskeeper Willie (Feb 22, 2019)

Not an expert here, but I think the answer hinges on how much you've sprayed, and maybe how hot it is. Ammonium sulfate has a high salt index compared to urea (which can also burn). The hotter the air is the quicker either one burns.

Are you are talking about AS as foliar nitrogen fertilizer at the usual kind of 1lb per thousand per month rate split into weekly doses, or instead do you mean a light dose accompanying a foliar app of iron sulfate? It sounds like you're talking about your main nitrogen fertilizing application: ie "foliar feeding". In that case I would wash it off quickly like within half an hour. I have also begun spraying nitrogen this year but right now I'm on the fence as to whether I'll continue with it. The burned hand teaches best they say. My learning opportunity arose from taking the instructions for foliar FAS and confusing them with regular nitrogen spoonfeeding instructions. Consequently there was some nitrogen burning. I sprayed a 50/50 mix of urea and AS at .2lbs of nitrogen per thousand, let it sit on the grass 4 hours, then turned on the sprinklers for 5 minutes a zone to rinse it off. I thought I was following instructions to a "T". That was incorrect! It may be enough rinse off for small amounts of ferrous AS, but for the main course of N fertilizers it was not enough water. First time it happened I saw burned tips and parched looking grass. I mistakenly attributed it to PGR bronzing (first app of season). Second time I realized I was screwing up and had to figure out what was going wrong with the N spraying. Turned out I was following instructions for applying iron with AS. The script is different for main feeding apps of AS or urea. Water that in, sooner and fully. How much sooner? Not sure, and it can depend on temperature I believe. After what I've seen, no way am I leaving N on the grass overnight.

Since my mistake, I have applied liquid N (this time from urea only plus small amounts of MKP and SOP and iron mixed in) successfully without damage. But I immediately set about watering it in with passes over the grass spraying just water from a 9 gallon push cart, followed by full irrigation about half an hour later after spraying the fertilizer from 4 gallon backpack. I had been counting on rain that day but the rain didn't come. You definitely need to be sure of your irrigation coverage. I may end up abandoning spraying N because the sprinkler coverage on this lawn is stretched a bit too thin, and to be safe I might have to water in the sketchy areas by hand.


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

We have to distinguish between fertilizers that are foliar applied (but not absorbed) and fertilizers that are truly absorbed by the leaf. AMS 21-0-0 is not a true foliar. If you are going to spray this on your lawn you might as well water it in, you won't see a response until it can be absorbed by the roots (but at high rates you might burn the leaf, think ~0.5 lbs N/M).

Urea dissolved in water is a true foliar. It is incredibly efficient at getting into the plant through the leaves. You should ONLY use urea when attempting to provide foliar N because it is the gold standard. Except under extreme weather conditions, it's usually safe to apply up to 0.3 lbs N/M from urea to healthy turf without burning. Apply lower rates to turf that is stressed.

Foliar applications should sit on the leaf for a minimum of 4 hours before rain or irrigation.


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## cglarsen (Dec 28, 2018)

CarolinaCuttin said:


> We have to distinguish between fertilizers that are foliar applied (but not absorbed) and fertilizers that are truly absorbed by the leaf. AMS 21-0-0 is not a true foliar. If you are going to spray this on your lawn you might as well water it in, you won't see a response until it can be absorbed by the roots (but at high rates you might burn the leaf, think ~0.5 lbs N/M).
> 
> Urea dissolved in water is a true foliar. It is incredibly efficient at getting into the plant through the leaves. You should ONLY use urea when attempting to provide foliar N because it is the gold standard. Except under extreme weather conditions, it's usually safe to apply up to 0.3 lbs N/M from urea to healthy turf without burning. Apply lower rates to turf that is stressed.
> 
> Foliar applications should sit on the leaf for a minimum of 4 hours before rain or irrigation.


Good information. So why is ammonium sulfate recommended mixing with glyphosate as an enhancement and not urea?

Is urea safe to spray on sprigs after the first 1-2 weeks - say 0.2 lb N/M in 1 gal water per M?


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

cglarsen said:


> CarolinaCuttin said:
> 
> 
> > We have to distinguish between fertilizers that are foliar applied (but not absorbed) and fertilizers that are truly absorbed by the leaf. AMS 21-0-0 is not a true foliar. If you are going to spray this on your lawn you might as well water it in, you won't see a response until it can be absorbed by the roots (but at high rates you might burn the leaf, think ~0.5 lbs N/M).
> ...


AMS is acidic in solution, people who have water with a high pH will notice reduced effectiveness of many different herbicides, adding AMS will lower the pH to a range that allows it to be more easily absorbed. Most foliar products are best absorbed between pH 4-6, although there are exceptions. Urea isn't recommended because urea doesn't lower pH.

Foliar urea is a fantastic choice for sprigs, you need a foliar since the roots are so immature and shallow, granulars and liquid soil sprays wash past the root zone very quickly. 0.2-0.3 lbs N/M weekly is my go-to mix for growing in bermuda. I also add RGS (you can use lots of different products, anything that has sea kelp) for enhanced root development in sprigs but this isn't necessary, they just need to be kept moist and well fed and they will explode!


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

I have managed to burn patches of my Bermuda turf where I overlapped/lingered a bit too much, but I also never water in that section of yard (no irrigation there). I think I sprayed at 0.23#N/1000 when I did that. Have not gone that heavy in one app since. Try to stay at foliar rates now.


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## cglarsen (Dec 28, 2018)

@CarolinaCuttin Awesome explanation. I will mix up some urea and kelp/humic/fulvic solution and get busy.


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## Krs1 (Apr 2, 2020)

Thanks @CarolinaCuttin for the explanation, I was advised to spray AS due to my slightly high PH 7.5 to help bring it down. I plan on putting down .5 lbs of PGF complete of N/1000 then .2 /1000 of either 21-0-0 or 46-0-0. I want to spoon feed a little until the desired thickness the tiftuf is only like 5-6 weeks old.


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

@Krs1 While AMS is good at lowing the pH of a spray solution, it's unlikely you'd be able to apply enough to significantly lower the pH of your soil. Citric acid is a good spray additive for lowering soil pH.


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## Tide (Aug 6, 2019)

CarolinaCuttin said:


> @Krs1 While AMS is good at lowing the pH of a spray solution, it's unlikely you'd be able to apply enough to significantly lower the pH of your soil. Citric acid is a good spray additive for lowering soil pH.


Would spraying foliar products with citric acid as a chelating agent affect the pH of the soil? I would like to use citric acid for this purpose, but my soil pH is already low.


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## Krs1 (Apr 2, 2020)

This is why I'm here! Every time I ask a question I get loads of extra info to go with it! I have learned so much in the short time I have been on this forum it amazing. Since I have all these weapons at my disposal IE urea/ AMS, should I be alternating these or just use one and move on to the next when empty?


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## ladycage (Aug 12, 2019)

Can someone help me figure out how to foliar spray nitrogen? I have granular 34-0-0 that I dissolved in water completely. But I don't have know to get the formula correct. I want to feed my bermuda grass .25N a week. I put 1 pound of the granular 34-0-0 in 1 gallon of hot water and dissolved it but I don't know how much I should use to foliar spray my lawn and should I water it in directly afterwards or wait for 4 hours then water in for 15 minutes? I don't know if you use the same rates for granular applications when you dissolve it in water?


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

ladycage said:


> Can someone help me figure out how to foliar spray nitrogen? I have granular 34-0-0 that I dissolved in water completely. But I don't have know to get the formula correct. I want to feed my bermuda grass .25N a week. I put 1 pound of the granular 34-0-0 in 1 gallon of hot water and dissolved it but I don't know how much I should use to foliar spray my lawn and should I water it in directly afterwards or wait for 4 hours then water in for 15 minutes? I don't know if you use the same rates for granular applications when you dissolve it in water?


To calculate how much granular product you need to achieve your desired N application amount, simply divide the desired N# by the formulation strength. In your case 0.25#N / 0.34. That equals to approx 0,75# ( 12oz) of that 34-0-0 fert for every 1000. This does not matter if it's applied granularly or liquified. The strength of the application is the same .. 0.25# of N.

Now to your question of whether liquids and granulars should be applied at the same rate, that depends on how much carrier you're using to spray. If you're doing the low volume / foliar spraying (meaning you intend for foliar uptake) you're generally spraying lower N amounts as the plant can only uptake approx 1/10th#N in one sitting. If you're spraying at 2+gal/1000 then you can go heavier since you're applying it to the soil at this point and the plant will get what it needs through root uptake, over time, and minimally through direct foliar uptake. (The commercial applicators spray out 1# of N / 1000 using straight 46-0-0 urea on a daily basis this way. It's the carrier volume that allows for this).

Lastly, and maybe most importantly, I'm assuming your 34-0-0 product is NOT actual ammonium nitrate (!!!!) but instead is the combination of AMS & Urea (mixed at 10% & 24% ratio) that gets combined for this typical 34-0-0 formulation. If so, that bag also includes 66% of filler ... make sure it's truly soluble before attempting a big batch. Most of the time you're seeing the straight concentrated AMS & Urea being melted out directly, not a mix of these products, for solubility as well as efficiency reasons. On my opinion I'd spread out that 34-0-0 at 3#/1000, water it in, and repeat again very 30-45 days for an aggressive fill-in approach. For further foliar feeding melt down some straight Urea at 4oz/1000 (0.11#N) and spray with a fine droplet nozzle. That should give you best of both root & foliar uptake feeding.


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## cglarsen (Dec 28, 2018)

CarolinaCuttin said:


> Foliar urea is a fantastic choice for sprigs, you need a foliar since the roots are so immature and shallow, granulars and liquid soil sprays wash past the root zone very quickly. 0.2-0.3 lbs N/M weekly is my go-to mix for growing in bermuda. I also add RGS (you can use lots of different products, anything that has sea kelp) for enhanced root development in sprigs but this isn't necessary, they just need to be kept moist and well fed and they will explode!


Two more questions: 
1) what is the earliest you would do foliar N on newly planted sprigs e.g. 1 wk, 2wks? 
2)At what point do you recommend switching over from foliar sprays to granular application for sprigged areas? I'm coming up on 5 weeks and the fill in has seemed to stall but I've only applied a few rounds at 0.25 lb N/m total. Is it ready for 1 lb N/m yet?


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## ladycage (Aug 12, 2019)

Thanks so much for your help. I will take your advice and spread 3#/1000 once a month and water in really good.



corneliani said:


> ladycage said:
> 
> 
> > Can someone help me figure out how to foliar spray nitrogen? I have granular 34-0-0 that I dissolved in water completely. But I don't have know to get the formula correct. I want to feed my bermuda grass .25N a week. I put 1 pound of the granular 34-0-0 in 1 gallon of hot water and dissolved it but I don't know how much I should use to foliar spray my lawn and should I water it in directly afterwards or wait for 4 hours then water in for 15 minutes? I don't know if you use the same rates for granular applications when you dissolve it in water?
> ...


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## robertgagnon726 (Jun 29, 2020)

corneliani said:


> ladycage said:
> 
> 
> > Can someone help me figure out how to foliar spray nitrogen? I have granular 34-0-0 that I dissolved in water completely. But I don't have know to get the formula correct. I want to feed my bermuda grass .25N a week. I put 1 pound of the granular 34-0-0 in 1 gallon of hot water and dissolved it but I don't know how much I should use to foliar spray my lawn and should I water it in directly afterwards or wait for 4 hours then water in for 15 minutes? I don't know if you use the same rates for granular applications when you dissolve it in water?
> ...


@corneliani

If I'm planning to apply Urea as foliar spray, how much carrier volume would you recommend? I was thinking 1 gallon per 1,000 sf at a rate of .25# of N twice a week.

Edit: I just saw your post about burning at .23# rate. What would a good foliar rate be? I'd be willing to spray daily/every other day if I'd see a benefit in spread rate from that


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## LoveMyLawn (Oct 14, 2019)

A question about the Ph of water. I just checked and our water Ph is 7.4. What can I add to the tank to lower the Ph besides AMS.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

robertgagnon726 said:


> @corneliani
> 
> If I'm planning to apply Urea as foliar spray, how much carrier volume would you recommend? I was thinking 1 gallon per 1,000 sf at a rate of .25# of N twice a week.
> 
> Edit: I just saw your post about burning at .23# rate. What would a good foliar rate be? I'd be willing to spray daily/every other day if I'd see a benefit in spread rate from that


In straight foliar apps carrier rate can be less, but so should the associated N amount. My snafu from earlier this season was, in hindsight, due to my low carrier (I spray at 0.75 gal/1000) together with the lack of rain materializing afterwards. So I've settled into spraying 0.1 #N/1000 (3.5oz of Urea) and do so more often.. but this is more a function of my lack of irrigation on my bermuda portion than a certain limitation on spraying N. If I would've used 2-gal/1000 I think I would've been ok with that 1/4# of N.

One thing worth stressing is that most foliar adsorption happens in the first 2-4 hours.. and only about 1/10th # of N can be absorbed during that time, max (I can't remember where I got that info from or I would link it). So if you spray more than that you're essentially washing the remaining nutrients into the soil for eventual root uptake. At that point there's no difference in spraying vs applying that N granularly (assuming fast release). So if you do a hybrid program where you supply soil nutrients with a granular fertilizer there's really no need to go heavy on the spray. Too many risks, imo. And if you choose to go more often (not sure how often is often enough btw) even more reason to stay at foliar absorption rates.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

LoveMyLawn said:


> A question about the Ph of water. I just checked and our water Ph is 7.4. What can I add to the tank to lower the Ph besides AMS.


Citric Acid, can be found on grocery shelves (used for canning). 
1/4 tsp in 4-gal should get you in the 5's, from my experience.


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## rjw0283 (May 11, 2020)

I spray 46-0-0 urea (.40 ish lb of N per 1000ft) with main event (2 oz per 1k), Sulfate of Potash (about 1 lb every 1 k) and PGR about every 2 weeks, I am a little under 1 gallon per 1,000 K on water in the sprayer. I spray about 7:30 pm and let it sit overnight. I run the sprinkler over it the following day and manually spray with a hose where the rain train sprinkler did not hit. It's worked well for me and have never experienced burn, only when the dogs decide to pee on it. Then it's super burned!


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## LoveMyLawn (Oct 14, 2019)

corneliani said:


> LoveMyLawn said:
> 
> 
> > A question about the Ph of water. I just checked and our water Ph is 7.4. What can I add to the tank to lower the Ph besides AMS.
> ...


Awesome. Thanks! I don't have to spray until next weekend so I'll pick some up and do testing. Any particular Ph meter y'all recommend? Looking at this one on Amazon. 
https://www.amazon.com/Accuracy-Measurement-Household-Drinking-Aquarium/dp/B08197LX6H/ref=sr_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=water+ph+meter&qid=1594989285&sr=8-17


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## Krs1 (Apr 2, 2020)

Can I Foliar feed urea on wet grass? I was going to spray and realized the sprinklers had turned on. They had only ran for about a quarter of an inch of water then turned off


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

Krs1 said:


> Can I Foliar feed urea on wet grass? I was going to spray and realized the sprinklers had turned on. They had only ran for about a quarter of an inch of water then turned off


Yes you can. However, foliar feeding means that the nutrient being applied is supposed to be intercepted by the leaf. If there is a bunch of water on the leaf and you spray it, it could be enough to have some of it bead up and fall down into the soil. The grass doesn't need to be perfectly dry but a heavy dew is going to lessen the amount of fertilizer that is absorbed by the leaf.


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## Krs1 (Apr 2, 2020)

Copy thank you sir


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## Krs1 (Apr 2, 2020)

So I did my first Foliar feed this evening. I applied 2.2oz of 46-0-0 to my 250 sqft of bermuda. I believe it turned out to be .25#/1000. Temps are high 60's/low 70's. Plan on leaving over night and watering tomorrow. &#129310;&#127995;This sound right?


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

Krs1 said:


> So I did my first Foliar feed this evening. I applied 2.2oz of 46-0-0 to my 250 sqft of bermuda. I believe it turned out to be .25#/1000. Temps are high 60's/low 70's. Plan on leaving over night and watering tomorrow. 🤞🏻This sound right?


I don't believe you'd get much if any burning at those temps, but with the foliar uptake tapering off after 4-ish hours you may as well water it in, let the roots grab some of that too.


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## Krs1 (Apr 2, 2020)

Ok watering in as I type this, didnt realize that turf has an optimal window? Middle of the day is best? At what outside temp will you start to see burning? We have had unseasonably low temps here with lots of overcast unfortunately so the growth has really slowed down.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

while there may be an optimal time of day to apply - basically anytime other than the hottest part of the day when the plant itself is trying to protect itself from the hot sun and tends to slow down metabolic functions - I was actually referring to the foliar uptake duration. Studies are showing that most (80%-ish) of the nitrogen foliar uptake happens in the first 4 hours +/-, plateauing afterwards.


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## Krs1 (Apr 2, 2020)

Thank you for the clarification sir. Applied my first spoon feed a few days ago. Going to continue until desired results. I will report back with weekly photos.


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## southernbuckeye (Sep 29, 2019)

Question for you guys on the Kelp front. I'm looking to utilize RGS (or something else with Kelp) for the next phase of my sprigging project. I found this stuff:https://thelawncarenut.com/products/n-ext-rgs-5-gallon but he also has a combo with humic https://thelawncarenut.com/products/n-ext-rgs-humic12-combo

1. Would both be good to apply to new sprigs? 
2. Given the frequency of watering new sprigs (for the first week I've done once an hour all 24 hours of the day), I'm concerned about simply washing the product away. Should I wait until week 2 and apply at night?

Thanks all!


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## Matthew_73 (Jul 9, 2019)

Are all Liquid Fert apps FOILIAR? I am wanting to apply a Liquid AMS solution to my new grass...


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

Matthew_73 said:


> Are all Liquid Fert apps FOILIAR? I am wanting to apply a Liquid AMS solution to my new grass...


While the application of liquid will always be a foliar application for us turf guys (vs furrow applied, etc, for Ag) the mode of uptake is what we arw referring to. The term can cause some confusion because of this.

Foliar uptake is when you mainly cover the leaves of the plant with the liquid (usually in low volume/low nitrogen applications) while soil-applied is when you try to get the product below the turf canopy and into the soil, intended for root uptake. The latter requires more volume of water to accomplish, and also typically would deliver more nitrogen (for example, 1/4 or 1/2# of N versus the 1/10th or less of foliar apps). 
Edit:
I hope I'm explaining it clearly. Here's an example:

If you're looking to apply 1/2# of N as a liquid AMS application you'd need to apply using 2+ gal/1000 (or irrigate immediately after application). This large amount of carrier not only dilutes the mix a bit more but it also 'washes' the product off the leaves and into the soil. While some foliar uptake may inevitably occur the majority will be washed off into the soil for the roots to have access to. This process then offers a sustained feeding of the turf as the biological breakdown occurs in soil.

A true foliar app, on the other hand, is a light application (think 0.05 or 0.1#) of N applied at 1-gal/1000+/-. It is meant as a short burst of nitrogen for short duration, and will not offer sustained feedings aside from what the plant is able to absorb in the first couple hours post application. Any product left on the foliage afterwards could/should be washed off into the soil to reduce leaf burn, etc., as most of what the plant would uptake has already occurred.


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## Matthew_73 (Jul 9, 2019)

I just want apply some ams to my new lawn. My spreader can't spread that low rate. Was curious if I put a pound or two in water. Dilute and spray of that would work


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

Matthew_73 said:


> I just want apply some ams to my new lawn. My spreader can't spread that low rate. Was curious if I put a pound or two in water. Dilute and spray of that would work


Yup. That's exactly how it's done.


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## bhutchinson87 (Jun 25, 2018)

southernbuckeye said:


> Question for you guys on the Kelp front. I'm looking to utilize RGS (or something else with Kelp) for the next phase of my sprigging project. I found this stuff:https://thelawncarenut.com/products/n-ext-rgs-5-gallon but he also has a combo with humic https://thelawncarenut.com/products/n-ext-rgs-humic12-combo
> 
> 1. Would both be good to apply to new sprigs?
> 2. Given the frequency of watering new sprigs (for the first week I've done once an hour all 24 hours of the day), I'm concerned about simply washing the product away. Should I wait until week 2 and apply at night?
> ...


1. Kelp is extremely helpful for new sprigs to encourage root growth. The humic is a soil amendment and will not immediately help the sprigs.

2. No, apply the kelp immediately. Also, if you can spray some liquid nitrogen (urea is best but AMS will work too) that will also help push the sprigs to get established. Watering every hour for 24 hours is a bit excessive; yes, you want to keep the soil from drying out, but you don't want excessive moisture leading to fungus issues.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

rjw0283 said:


> I spray 46-0-0 urea (.40 ish lb of N per 1000ft) with main event (2 oz per 1k), Sulfate of Potash (about 1 lb every 1 k) and PGR about every 2 weeks, I am a little under 1 gallon per 1,000 K on water in the sprayer. I spray about 7:30 pm and let it sit overnight. I run the sprinkler over it the following day and manually spray with a hose where the rain train sprinkler did not hit. It's worked well for me and have never experienced burn, only when the dogs decide to pee on it. Then it's super burned!


Did you get your Sulfate of Potash locally? If so where?


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## LoveMyLawn (Oct 14, 2019)

bhutchinson87 said:


> southernbuckeye said:
> 
> 
> > Question for you guys on the Kelp front. I'm looking to utilize RGS (or something else with Kelp) for the next phase of my sprigging project. I found this stuff:https://thelawncarenut.com/products/n-ext-rgs-5-gallon but he also has a combo with humic https://thelawncarenut.com/products/n-ext-rgs-humic12-combo
> ...


I have a buddy that is about to have his new dirt hydro mulched with bermuda. Would the urea and kelp mix be a good app once it's spouted?


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## bhutchinson87 (Jun 25, 2018)

LoveMyLawn said:


> I have a buddy that is about to have his new dirt hydro mulched with bermuda. Would the urea and kelp mix be a good app once it's spouted?


The company that is doing the hydromulching will probably include some kind of fert with the seed. I would check with them on what they are providing, but that would be a good app in a month or so. Hope it gets established before dormancy hits. The purpose of spraying urea on sprigs is to provide nutrients through the leaf since they don't have roots yet. If your buddy is in the Dallas area like we are then I would suggest spraying AMS with our typical high pH clay soil.


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## rjw0283 (May 11, 2020)

@Mightyquinn I never found it locally, I ended up buying online, I found a place that was 60 bucks for a 50lb bag with shipping included, so I went with that.


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

rjw0283 said:


> @Mightyquinn I never found it locally, I ended up buying online, I found a place that was 60 bucks for a 50lb bag with shipping included, so I went with that.


Where? I tried to source this locally without success.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

rjw0283 said:


> @Mightyquinn I never found it locally, I ended up buying online, I found a place that was 60 bucks for a 50lb bag with shipping included, so I went with that.


You should check out Southern Seeds in Middlesex, NC. It's a little bit of a drive but they usually have a large selection of everything you need and they are very friendly and helpful. I usually go up there and stock up since it's a little bit of a drive. I would call before going to see what they have in stock. You could probably get 2 bags for $60.


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## rjw0283 (May 11, 2020)

Spammage said:


> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> > @Mightyquinn I never found it locally, I ended up buying online, I found a place that was 60 bucks for a 50lb bag with shipping included, so I went with that.
> ...


https://www.7springsfarm.com/allganic-soluble-potassium-sulfate-sop-0-0-52-sulfur-18-50-lb-bag/
Shipping is based on location, this is the cheapest I've seen anywhere on the internet, and their shipping is a reasonable price (for me at least, based on my location).


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

Yeah, I just can't bring myself to pay $25 for shipping a $35 bag of fertilizer. I would rather spend a half a day driving somewhere and back and getting 2 bags for what I would pay for one bag. I assume you probably live in the same area as me and Middlesex isn't a bad drive to go up there, get what you need and come back and then you are set for 2-3 years.


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

rjw0283 said:


> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> > rjw0283 said:
> ...


Thanks for posting!


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## rjw0283 (May 11, 2020)

@Spammage no problem, they are a good site, I've ordered a few things from them. The only issue I have is.... If you order something that is light (around 3lbs) you end up paying about the same rate as you would for something that weighs 50lbs, I guess this is how they keep their costs down for the heavy items.


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