# Fall Overseed and New Seeding 2017



## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Good morning all. After reading through a lot of the threads on this forum, I've decided that I'd really like to level my back yard with sand and overseed my KBG (midnight, moonlight SLT, bedazzled) with a three way blend of perennial ryegrass. The ultimate goal is to maintain it at an inch or less. I thought I'd start a new thread so I can keep track of progress as well as avoid hijacking any previous threads.

I have one area that's about 1000 sq ft. on a gentle slope that I will be removing rocks from and planting new grass to expand the size of the backyard. I'd ultimately like the whole yard to be a mix of PRG and KBG. After doing a lot of reading, I've read a lot about the fact that you don't really want to seed more than 10% PRG and KBG together, or the PRG will dominate the new stand of grass at about a year. I do have a few questions regarding both the new area and the area to be overseeded?

1. Should I aerate and/or try to level off any of the new area (will be bare dirt) with sand, etc. before seeding? I'd rototill and level, but that seems to be frowned upon on a lot of other forums.

2. When I cut the existing KBG down low to overseed, I plan on leveling with sand. Can I then immediately seed the PRG into the sand and roll it?

3. Before I overseed should I core aerate and remove the cores?

4. What rate should I seed the PRG into the existing KBG at? I've seen recommendations from 5 all the way up to 10 pounds per 1000sq ft.

Thanks in advance for all the advice. I will start to update with pictures even though I'm embarrassed at how the lawn currently looks compared to some on this site. It's taken quite a beating the last couple of years with lack of maintenance (new baby) and other projects (new deck, tree removal, new tree planting) that have caused it to get quite trampled on.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Overseed of KBG is not a successful strategy. See this recent thread for more details. http://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=596

1) Rototill screws up the leveling. Once it settles, it wont be leveled. You do no need to aerate to apply the seed. I would level off before seed down
2)Sand is normally not good at retaining moisture. The success of an overside into sand is low.
3) My opinion no;
4) What does the bag says.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Thanks for the reply. I love that the KBG has the ability to spread, and have really enjoyed the fact that it can repair itself, especially in the fall time. I was considering the overseed based on the thread about maintaining KBG or PRG under 1". I believe in that thread that WardConnor said this:

"Start the whole process by very first cutting lower. Then remove a bunch of the thatch crown layer aggressively with a slice seeder machine, a manual thatch rake, or a power thatch rake. Get it nice and thin. Once you get it thinned out then over seed or level with sand. After sand I like to seed."

I know overseeding KBG with more KBG would be tough due to the germination time, but is it also a bad idea then to overseed PRG into the established KBG? If so, then I will likely hold off and maybe just try leveling for now. Thanks so much for all the help.

Oh, and I was considering the core aeration not necessarily due to the fact that I was wanting to seed, but more because there's been a lot of heavy equipment on the lawn. I thought it may help it out a little. I have been spraying shampoo and a kelp/humic acid mixture every two weeks, though so maybe that's enough. Sorry I didn't make that clear in the first post.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I'm not sure what WardConnor was referring to, hopefully he will chime in and explain.

Why do you want to add PRG to your KBG? Most folks want the opposite (get rid of the PRG). What are you trying to archive?

Core aeration should help the heavy equipment areas. If you could top dress with compost after it, then you will be adding OM to your soil.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Here's a portion of what I believe wardconnor was talking about


> In order to reel cut low you need to scrub out that heavy thatch layer or crown. If you cut low for the first time or more you are going to cut into that crown spongy layer at first. This layer is like a spongy thatch layer and is hard to describe. This material needs to be removed and thinned out. My lawn had a bunch of this stuff when I decided to cut low. I used a power rake seeder machine with a delta reel blade to cut this out. I went over it in several directions and pulled out a lot of dead old material. Keep in mind at this point my lawn was only 2 years old grown from seed. I vacuumed this removed thatch up with my rotary mower. Removing this significantly thinned out the lawn. You can also accomplish this with a manual thatch rake. If you are wanting to go low you will need to thin your lawn out. These are all my opinions so take it for what it is worth.
> 
> After I thinned the lawn out I over seeded with PRG heavy. Going with the PRG was my best move IMO in going low. It added a beautiful look to the KBG. I would do it all over if I had to do it again. If I knew then what I know now I would started with this mix when I seeded.


Please note that I'm not trying to start a war between anyone. I'm well aware there are many differing opinions on and approaches to turf care. Without getting too complicated, what I'm trying to achieve is a yard that looks as good as ward's. I want to be able to maintain it at a low HOC and have it look nice and smooth. If I'd be better off just leaving it all KBG I'm fine with that too. I do have cultivars that are compact varieties so they should be able to handle the low cut.


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

I have a response for you. Give me a few. Been busy.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Bump. I'm curious to the rational for adding prg.


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

g-man said:


> Bump. I'm curious to the rational for adding prg.


It's beautiful and tolerates low mowing


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

wardconnor said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> > Bump. I'm curious to the rational for adding prg.
> ...


For me, it's this plus the benefit of quick establishment. I have kids and dogs. While my KBG will fill holes, it does so slowly. I'd like something in the mix that I can throw down periodically to fill small spots of wear. There's got to be a reason that golf courses use this in their divot repair mixes frequently.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

RockyMtnLawnNut said:


> wardconnor said:
> 
> 
> > g-man said:
> ...


Are you talking as a 50/50 mix KBG/PRG or straight PRG to fill and patch?


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

kolbasz said:


> RockyMtnLawnNut said:
> 
> 
> > wardconnor said:
> ...


The new area I plan to seed with 10% PRG and 90% KBG. I plan to overseed my existing 100% KBG with some PRG as well.


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

I have said this in the past but I at one time had straight KBG and paid a premium for the seed when I seeded in 2014. I was very hesitant to contaminate the KBG.

After talking in person with a seed dude that has been in the grass seed industry for 30 plus years, I decided to go for it with PRG. He recommended that I over seed with PRG heavy if I wanted a sexy showy lawn that stripes well and tolerates low mowing heights. I tole me that PRG was going to be my go to seed. He told me the heavier the better. Not sure if he was trying to sell seed or not with that comment. I now know why he recommended this option.

PRG is awesome. Its very sexy and showy and stripes awesome. I still have straight KBG in the back and the difference is huge. I much prefer the front with the ryegrass. Everyone (people that comment) that comes by on bike path wants to know "what kind of grass" it is. They all think its bent or "golf course" grass. I tell them is just regular KBG and PRG and that its just taken care of well.

My back lawn looks okay but is does not look nearly as nice as the front. This is due to a few things.. one being that I do not spend as much time on it making it look as nice and the other being that its only KBG. Its also where the kids and dogs hang out and that is my wifes area for them.

I would not personally hesitate one bit to over seeding very heavily all of my 20k lawn with PRG.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

By heavy overseeding, what are we talking about in pounds per 1000?


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

RockyMtnLawnNut said:


> By heavy overseeding, what are we talking about in pounds per 1000?


I have no idea about that. I think I have bought and put down 150 lbs. Probably easily 100 lbs over 7500 in the last 2 fall seasons. I have since moved to side yard with the PRG. Probably 50 lbs each fall. I just buy it and put it down. I am very un-scientific about it. The more the better in my mind. I know.. I know..... its not the popular opinion.

I think the math comes out to be like 6# per 1000 for each fall season overseed.

The front 7500 does not need more seed. Its so super thick and knit together.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

sounds good to me...sometimes I feel like I need to stop analyzing too much as well. I'll probably just do what looks good.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

So I'm going to post any progress that I make to this thread. The pictures attached are of my currently beat up and embarrassing lawn and back yard. We've done a lot to the back yard this year including tree removal/replacement, added the play structure, and rebuilt the deck. Now I get to turn my focus back to the lawn. The other day I was able to start moving some of the rock on the hillside in order to get it ready for seed. The last time I did a reno, the area was flat and I topdressed with peat moss. Any thoughts on how to keep the seed stable on that hill? GrassDaddy I know you used a tackifier on yours. Anybody use penn mulch, seed aide, or encap starter pro? Also, after I finish removing rock, I'll post a few more pics of that area. It appears to be very bumpy as soil has settled in interesting places. I need to smooth it out somehow. I can either get some topsoil and drag/roll then fallow or I can have someone harley rake it and drag/roll, which might not be as cost effective. Any thoughts are much appreciated.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

And here are a couple of closeups of the grass down to about 1 7/8" HOC now. I think after I thin it out and overseed it should do fairly well.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Good morning guys! The weather here in the Denver area has seemingly taken a turn for the cooler side. I'm still going to wait until about mid August to seed because the weather can change quickly here and I suspect it may warm back up again soon. In any event, I spent some time clearing up the rest of the rock on the hillside last night. There are some tree roots to chop out, but they're fairly surface level so not that bad to get out. My question is this: the area is fairly bumpy right now, so how do I get it smoothed out? Nail drag to break up a bit and then drag and roll? Add some new topsoil and drag/roll? Any ideas are greatly appreciated! I'll post a pic when I can figure out how to get my phone to copy the link. As an aside, the lawn is now down to about an inch with the reel!


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)




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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

My thoughts lead to sheer brute work.. Shovel and rake or a tiller lightly tilled. If you need to bring it up then bring in top soil and level with 2x4x8 on hands and knees.

If you fluff up soil with tiller be sure to roll with heavy roller to pack it back down to prevent settling in the future.

As you go at it you'll naturally figure out the best way to get the project done. Without seeing it in person it's slightly hard to give an accurate recommendation.

Drag drag drag. Then drag some more before seed down. Did I mention dragging before seed down? Do it. You skip this step.... You'll be sorry.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Thanks! I built a nail drag to break some of it up and just pulled it around that area for awhile with some cement blocks...I'm still sore. Then I got an old used pallet from the dumpster area at work and used that as a leveling drag of sorts. Seemed to work ok. I'm going to rent a roller this weekend to roll it. I'm also having some amended topsoil delivered on Saturday, so I'll add that and drag/roll again. Then I'll continue to fallow and drag as necessary. I'll update with pics soon!


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Well, today was grunt work day. I had four yards of topsoil delivered. Here is what the area looked like before I added any:



This is in the process of adding the first round of topsoil:



Rolled, drug with a pallet to level, rolled again, drug some more, etc. etc. etc. Then I started adding another layer of topsoil



Rolled, drug, rolled, drug...you get the idea. Here is the finished product for now. I know I'll probably have to do some more dragging and rolling once we get some rain, etc. It sure feels good to be done with this though!


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

That turned out nice!


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## Fronta1 (Jul 11, 2017)

You should take a look at Pete1313's thread if you want to aerate before seeding. Basically it's ok as long as you drag the cores around to fill the holes back in.


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

I'd have to say it's shaping up for a nice turnout. Good work.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Good morning and I hope everyone had a good weekend! It's getting closer to my seed down date, and I have just a few questions:

1. I'd like to maintain a natural edge to the newly seeded turf area. Should I set this edge now with my hand edger and fill in the landscaping rocks around it, or should I wait until the turf is growing and then edge it?

2. When I overseed the existing portion of my lawn, should I topdress it with peat like I would the bare area?

3. Should I continue to mow the overseeded area with my push reel to keep the existing grass lower, or do I wait until the new grass has sprouted and is ready to be mowed? I'm just worried the existing grass is going to get way too tall by that point.

Thanks guys!


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Re number 2, my input would be to use the peat. I think opinions vary about how necessary it is, but lots of people report higher rates of germination and increased density in areas where peat is used. You do wants limits, though--no more than 1/4 inch.

Re number 3, if I understand your question correctly, my input would be to wait until you have several inches of growth from your new seed before mowing. When you cut low just before the reseed, you are not only improving seed to soil contact but are also proactively addressing the fact that it will be a long time before you mow again. You have the advantage of quick germination in PRG. You'll need to check to see how long the PRG needs to be before its first mow--probably 3-4 inches, but I'm not sure. But yeah, mow that beautiful KBG low, low, low (without damaging it, of course), and stay off of that baby PRG until it is strong enough to fight back.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Thanks Social Port. Do you think the mowing schedule changes since I'm currently maintaining (and wish to continue to maintain) my KBG and new PRG under 1" mowing height? Just curious, and thanks for the input!


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

RockyMtnLawnNut said:


> Thanks Social Port. Do you think the mowing schedule changes since I'm currently maintaining (and wish to continue to maintain) my KBG and new PRG under 1" mowing height? Just curious, and thanks for the input!


I'm gonna have to defer to wardconnor on that one. He knows more about mowing low than many warm season guys


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

What social port said.

Mow low as you can bear on the over seed before seed down. Then scarify existing as much as can. Scarify it tremendously with a manual thatch rake or equivalent. I found last weekend that the manual thatch rake worked much better than my slice seeder as a means of scarifying. Clean up the thatched out material. The KBG will repair it self overtime with fert. Put down the PRG heavy if you can and have means to. I did not use peat when over seeding and will be using it in a week or so when I over seed. Then water like crazy for like 2 weeks or more and let it go as long as possible before the first mow. When you do mow use the reel or a rotary and mulch it in case you suck up some seed that can get returned back into the soil. I am planning on doing PGR a day or 3 before I put the seed down to put the brakes on the existing grass.

As for the edges I would do the cutting in of the beds and laying of the rocks later or after seeding. You can use glyphosphate in the beds after the seed germinates. I am going to have that same issue this round when I over seed and am thinking about using Petes method or a drop spreader around the edges so the seed does not get into the beds.

As for mowing schedule just mow and do not think about it. Be the crazy lawn guy in the neighborhood and mow like 5 times per week if you desire (not required). Mow as often as you like as the grass grows better when cut regularly. Just wait to mow initially during seed germination and initial growing.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help. I've been mowing 3-4 times per week now, so it's gonna feel pretty weird to wait that long! My wife always gives me the "you're going to mow again?!?!?!" look, but I think she's getting used to my craziness.


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

Yes... I know the feeling. I have finally gotten over than hump with my wife. She just knows now that I am in the lawn one way or another everyday. Shes does not hound me anymore about my mowing frequency.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Here we go folks...tomorrow is seed down day. I'm going to rent a slice seeder and dethatch the lawn with it as much as possible. The existing KBG is down to .75" right now. I'll use a manual thatch areas as well to scarify. Seed will go down with a drop spreader, be lightly raked, and then rolled. Topped with peat moss on the over seeded portion, and lesco seed starter 4 on the hillside with bare dirt. I'll post pics tomorrow. Think good thoughts!


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## Pete1313 (May 3, 2017)

Good luck! Take lots of pictures!


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

RockyMtnLawnNut said:


> Here we go folks...tomorrow is seed down day. I'm going to rent a slice seeder and dethatch the lawn with it as much as possible. The existing KBG is down to .75" right now. I'll use a manual thatch areas as well to scarify. Seed will go down with a drop spreader, be lightly raked, and then rolled. Topped with peat moss on the over seeded portion, and lesco seed starter 4 on the hillside with bare dirt. I'll post pics tomorrow. Think good thoughts!


Sounds like you are well prepared! Good luck!!!


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Good thoughts! Enjoy the process!


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Well it's all done. Thanks for the encouragement. I'll post pics tomorrow as soon as I can move again.


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

Definitely interested in how you liked the Lesco seed starter on your hill. How did you apply it?


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Photos still to come I promise! Pennstater, I wanted to answer your question. The jury is still out on the lesco seed starter. It says on the bag you can either spread by hand or with a hydro seed machine. I spread by hand as it would not go through my earthway 2150 on the highest setting. It reminded me of slightly longer alfalfa pellets in size. The bag recommends 40# per 800 square feet. The area I covered was 450 and I feel like the coverage was sparse. Again, maybe this rate was meant for a hydro seed application. Overall it expands nicely when wet, so maybe it would work well if I doubled the rate. No storms here planned for the next 10 days so it might not really get a true test (which is fine with me).


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

RockyMtnLawnNut said:


> Photos still to come I promise! Pennstater, I wanted to answer your question. The jury is still out on the lesco seed starter. It says on the bag you can either spread by hand or with a hydro seed machine. I spread by hand as it would not go through my earthway 2150 on the highest setting. It reminded me of slightly longer alfalfa pellets in size. The bag recommends 40# per 800 square feet. The area I covered was 450 and I feel like the coverage was sparse. Again, maybe this rate was meant for a hydro seed application. Overall it expands nicely when wet, so maybe it would work well if I doubled the rate. No storms here planned for the next 10 days so it might not really get a true test (which is fine with me).


Thanks for the update. I wondered about the coverage area. Almost seemed too good to be true! I guess we'll have to await your final verdict  Can't wait for the pics!


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

OK gang. Here is the update on seeding day. I started early and rented an overseeder from Home Depot. I had no intentions of actually using the seed bin, only using it as a verticutter/dethatcher. I ended up verticutting the front and back yards in three directions. Here are a couple of pics of the back yard after the first pass:





In some areas it really pulled up a lot of material, and in others it did not.

After the verticut, I used a manual thatch rake across the entire yard as well to remove more dead and crown material. Then I vacuumed up the debris with my rotary mower and then scalped down to 0.75" with the Mclane. Here are the pics of the front and back after scalping:









Next, I dropped seed using my rotary spreader. I ended up going pretty heavy on the PRG at about 10# per 1000 sq feet. All seeds were coated with soil moist seed coat. I used a lawn roller (also rented from HD) to roll the seeds into the soil as well. Then, I started work on the new seeding area. After leveling again, I spread the seed (30% PRG and 70% KBG) with my rotary spreader again. Once again, I rolled them into the bare soil. I lightly covered this area with peat moss and then with the lesco seed starter 4. Here are the pics after that process. Also, I lightly topdressed some areas of the overseed with peat moss, but only the areas that were fairly bare. All areas got Lesco 18-24-12 starter fert as well.









The irrigation is set for 5 mins per zone, three times per day right now. Yesterday I was able to stay home and make sure that everything stayed fairly moist, and it looked good. Now it's just a waiting game. I'm glad the hard work is over, and I'm looking forward to seeing the results!


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

Looks great &#128077; Being able to stay home and monitor all that hard work is nice. Did you find that the yard roller helped to get the seed in a little better? And what were your thoughts on the seed starter mulch once it got watered in? Hope the rain stays away!


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

pennstater2005 said:


> Looks great 👍 Being able to stay home and monitor all that hard work is nice. Did you find that the yard roller helped to get the seed in a little better? And what were your thoughts on the seed starter mulch once it got watered in? Hope the rain stays away!


I really do feel like the roller is some added insurance. I used it on my previous two renos as well. I did forget to mention that right before the roller that I drug the pallet around to hopefully knock any seed down to the soil level first. As far as the starter mulch goes, I think it's looking better now that it has gotten some more water, but I still think I would use more in the future. I'll try and get a closeup for you of what it looks like now.


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## Pete1313 (May 3, 2017)

Awesome work! Congrats on the seed down! :thumbsup: The Mclane puts down some nice stripes at .75"


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Thanks Pete. Yeah the mclane does alright, but I'm still looking forward to getting a greens mower sometime soon!


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

RockyMtnLawnNut said:


> pennstater2005 said:
> 
> 
> > Looks great 👍 Being able to stay home and monitor all that hard work is nice. Did you find that the yard roller helped to get the seed in a little better? And what were your thoughts on the seed starter mulch once it got watered in? Hope the rain stays away!
> ...


If you end up getting some rain make sure you let us know how the starter mulch holds up. Just water and wait now!


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Woke up yesterday and found a few small sprouts here and there. This morning, grass is sprouting everywhere! I'll grab some pics when I get home from work. Also, no rain here yet, so no real reports on how the seed mulch held up. I ended up doing some woodworking (I'm building kitchen cabinets) the other day and got a lot of dust/shavings from the power planer and jointer. I topdressed a few of the bare areas with some of the sawdust. I have to say, I almost like it better than the peat.


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## ken-n-nancy (Jul 25, 2017)

RockyMtnLawnNut said:


> I topdressed a few of the bare areas with some of the sawdust. I have to say, I almost like it better than the peat.


Sawdust works well to retain moisture for seed germination. One thing to watch out for, however, is that decomposing sawdust is a nitrogen hog. Don't overdo it, or the sawdust will compete with the new grass for the nitrogen that the new grass needs!

My understanding is that it is generally to avoid competition for nitrogen that sawdust is not typically used as a topdressing for newly-seeded lawns.


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

ken-n-nancy said:


> RockyMtnLawnNut said:
> 
> 
> > I topdressed a few of the bare areas with some of the sawdust. I have to say, I almost like it better than the peat.
> ...


This is good to know. I never knew this.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Thanks for the info. I went very light and only in a few areas that were thinner.


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## ken-n-nancy (Jul 25, 2017)

wardconnor said:


> ken-n-nancy said:
> 
> 
> > One thing to watch out for, however, is that decomposing sawdust is a nitrogen hog. ...
> ...


I suppose I'm getting a bit off topic with this, but a pile of sawdust takes just a crazy long time to decompose without lots of nitrogen. As an example, below is a video of a sawdust pile from a milling operation from in the 1920s and 1930s up on Matagamon Lake in Maine. I visited this sawdust pile a few years ago. One would think that this pile would have rotted away in a couple years, but it's been nearly 100 years so far.






There's quite a few of these sawdust piles up in northern Maine. There's a good-sized one on the shore of our favorite fishing spot for white perch. The pile is clearly visible in a satellite photo: http://mapper.acme.com/?ll=45.18767,-68.39278&z=19&t=H

The lake water looks like tea. I don't know if that's due to the giant sawdust pile, or some other reason.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

It's time for an update at Day 9. Some of the pics are actually from day 7, but the last one is from this morning. The overseeded areas have really surprised me and are really taking off. The PRG is starting to keep pace with the existing KBG now. The newly seeded area still has a lot of spots germinating, which might take a bit longer due to the KBG in the mix, but overall I think I'm going to be happy with it. Have a good day all! Here are the pics:


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

Looks good! :thumbup:


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

Looks awesome.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Thanks guys! I really can't believe as much of the overseeded area germinated as it did.


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

RockyMtnLawnNut said:


> Thanks guys! I really can't believe as much of the overseeded area germinated as it did.


Yep.. its seems do well in any of the over seedings I have done. Just wait another month you are going to love the result.

I LOVE perennial ryegrass. I think it looks so good in my current blend. That being said, I am not entirely sure what it looks like cut tall because I have never cut my grass tall.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Well, I slacked off on posting this earlier, but I got the first mow in at day 10 after seed down! The PRG was really starting to take off all over the lawn. Here are a couple of pics right after the first cut. Bench HOC was 1.5" with my push McLane. Currently it's sitting at 1.25", and it's loving that height. I plan to take it down lower with time.


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

That looks very nice!!!


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## Pete1313 (May 3, 2017)

Looks good!


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

It has been almost three weeks since the seed went down. The hillside area that was newly seeded is coming in nicely and may be ready to cut next week. The back and front yard overseeds are looking really good. They are starting to really thicken up now. I mowed with the gas powered Mclane for the first time this week in the back. I know from previous renos that I don't want to push top growth, but when do I start spoon feeding the new grass (and the old grass for that matter)? O have both 21-0-0 and 46-0-0 in the garage. I put down 18-24-12 at a rate of 0.5#N/1000k at seeding time. Thanks all, and good luck to all those who have seeding projects coming up soon!


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Postimage links are going to pixxxel. The ads are not safe for work.

The lawn looks really nice.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Thanks for the heads up. What image server do you guys recommend instead?


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## Pete1313 (May 3, 2017)

Looks awesome!


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

RockyMtnLawnNut said:


> Thanks for the heads up. What image server do you guys recommend instead?


When I upload your photo via the postimage plugin in the reply editor, they appear to route correctly to postimg.cc. Can someone verify that is the case with the images below?


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## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

Routed me to pixxxel


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Now it is routing me to pixxxel too.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

I sent an inquiry to postimage. If the problem persists, I'll probably just have to disable their extension.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Goes to postimg.cc for me. Using Mozilla FireFox, if that would make a difference.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Postimage says the problem is now resolved, but it does not appear to be retroactive (fix the old posts).

Does this one go to postimg.cc for everyone?


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

Ware said:


> Postimage says the problem is now resolved, but it does not appear to be retroactive (fix the old posts).
> 
> Does this one go to postimg.cc for everyone?


Post image for this one. Porn on the one from this morning.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Ware said:


> Postimage says the problem is now resolved, but it does not appear to be retroactive (fix the old posts).
> 
> Does this one go to postimg.cc for everyone?


They all go to postimage for me.


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

Post image for me as well.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

All going to postimage for me now. Thanks ware!


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

Oh yeah, lawn is looking great!


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

OK, so I have been meaning to update this thread for awhile now. Things are really going well at this point. The overseed has really taken off, and the lawn is looking great both back and front. I'll update with new pics as soon as I can. The new seeding area is still spreading in every day, and the color is starting to get closer to the adjacent existing turf. Here are a few thoughts about things I think either helped or didn't help me much:

1. I'm not sure that I really liked the Lesco seed starter mulch. I don't think the coverage was that good, and I think I've had just as good germination with peat moss in the past.
2. I really think that mowing the turf low from the get go helped gain me better seed/soil contact and more time for the overseed to grow in. Even if you don't plan on maintaining turf at low heights, I could see where it would be beneficial to cut down low before an overseed.
3. I still stand by my old method of rolling the seed into the soil with a lawn roller after broadcasting. I got nice even germination again by doing this

Currently I'm just following a fert schedule where I put down 0.5#N/1000 sq ft. about every 2-3 weeks. It's starting to cool off here quite a bit, so I'll see how long I can go until the first frost when things really slow down. Oh, and I finally was able to get my hands on this puppy! I got it just this week and haven't been able to mow yet due to rain.


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

RockyMtnLawnNut said:


> Oh, and I finally was able to get my hands on this puppy! I got it just this week and haven't been able to mow yet due to rain.


^^^ awesome! :thumbup:


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

Excellent


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

And here is the result of her maiden voyage. This is the front at .875 I think I'm going to take it down maybe to .750 this weekend.


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

Yes. 3/4" You won't go wrong at that height


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## Pete1313 (May 3, 2017)

RockyMtnLawnNut said:


> Oh, and I finally was able to get my hands on this puppy! I got it just this week and haven't been able to mow yet due to rain.


Nice!



RockyMtnLawnNut said:


> And here is the result of her maiden voyage. This is the front at .875 I think I'm going to take it down maybe to .750 this weekend.


Looking good!



wardconnor said:


> Yes. 3/4" You won't go wrong at that height


I agree. 3/4" is a nice HOC. It has a good balance between the feel of short grass and the ability to leave great stripes.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut (Jun 23, 2017)

Thanks guys! I'll post back once I lower it again. Hope you all are doing well, and thanks so far for all the encouragement and help!


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