# John Deere greens mower Questions



## dfw_pilot

Do you have a John Deere greens mower and have a question about working on it? Do you have something to share? Ask or share here.​
The evolution of the JD fixed head walk behind greensmower.
The 22 was made from 1987-1994,
The 220 from 1995-1996,
The 220A from 1997-2002,
The 220B from 2002-2006,
The 220C from 2007-2010, and
The 220SL from 2011-Current.

Design changes were made over the years to various parts of the mowers.

The 220 E-Cut is made from 2010-Current
It is the hybrid floating head design (QA5) of the JD walk behind greensmower.

Main resources:

- FYI Greenfarmparts sold the business to Greenville Turf. Online ordering is not as convenient. A few of the post in this thread points to greenfarmparts, but that no longer works.

- This website has a few of the technician manuals. http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual

- Bedknife angles and options.


----------



## Redtenchu

JD released this video on April 5th 2017. Hope it can help someone!

https://youtu.be/NowflP0Brao


----------



## Ware

Great video. Thanks!


----------



## atc4usmc

Great, thanks! I am having one delivered in June (180C) this will help im sure!


----------



## lagerman72

Had to search for this so moving it up a few pages as I'm sure I'll have some questions next week. Prepare thyself Ware :gum:


----------



## Ware

Ha, I haven't even cut the whole lawn with mine yet! I scalped with my Toro, then did the irrigation project. I'm now waiting on everything to fill back in from the leveling project before I run it. I just didn't see any need to compromise the reel/bedknife on the new mower.


----------



## Redtenchu

First off, the rollers from a Toro Flex fit perfectly fine on a JD 220B.

*BEFORE*









*AFTER*


----------



## Redtenchu

Hacking off the transport axels is not the easiest thing, but for me it is a must!

Used a standard Hack Saw and some elbow grease, nothing special.

I intentionally left 1.5 inches of shaft in the event I needed to make a few flat spots and wrench off the shaft for drum roller maintenance.


----------



## Redtenchu

I'll need to adjust a lot of the cables and springs, but the mower is pretty straight forward IMO.

Has anyone attempted maintenance on the gearbox? I did a quick search in the manuals and didn't see much about it.


----------



## Ware

Are the 2 black knobs for reel to bed knife adjustments?


----------



## Redtenchu

Ware said:


> Are the 2 black knobs for reel to bed knife adjustments?


Yes.


----------



## Ware

Redtenchu said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are the 2 black knobs for reel to bed knife adjustments?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes.
Click to expand...

Do they have click detents? Or just smooth?


----------



## Redtenchu

Ware said:


> Redtenchu said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are the 2 black knobs for reel to bed knife adjustments?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Do they have click detents? Or just smooth?
Click to expand...

Smooth, like butter.


----------



## J_nick

Red in the event you do have to take apart the rear roller a pipe wrench would be a lot faster than grinding flats for a wrench. It may not be the prettiest after but it's hard to beat quick results


----------



## Redtenchu

J_nick said:


> Red in the event you do have to take apart the rear roller a pipe wrench would be a lot faster than grinding flats for a wrench. It may not be the prettiest after but it's hard to beat quick results


Good tip! Thanks.


----------



## Cavan806

I'm still learning the ins and outs of my JD 260 B. the hardest part for me is mastering the "Pro Turns". 
Red Is there an advantage to using the grooved roller over the smooth roller? I have both but I've only ever used the smooth roller.
Forgot to add I also have a very strong desire to hack off my transport axles. Unfortunately I need them though. I swear those things are like grappling hooks whenever you are anywhere close to something. Nothing better than trying to cut it super close to the deck and the next thing you know you are making a hard left turn into the mulch. 

Cheers!


----------



## lagerman72

Cavan806 said:


> I'm still learning the ins and outs of my JD 260 B. the hardest part for me is mastering the "Pro Turns".


I'm right there with you on this and only attempt to try it out back with the cover of my fence to hide all embarrassment.


----------



## Cavan806

lagerman72 said:


> Cavan806 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still learning the ins and outs of my JD 260 B. the hardest part for me is mastering the "Pro Turns".
> 
> 
> 
> I'm right there with you on this and only attempt to try it out back with the cover of my fence to hide all embarrassment.
Click to expand...

Oh man this is so true. I swear sometimes the mower is laughing at me. :lol:


----------



## Redtenchu

Cavan806 said:


> Red Is there an advantage to using the grooved roller over the smooth roller? I have both but I've only ever used the smooth roller.


I've read the grooved roller gives a more aggressive cut without a lower HOC. With the grooved roller less plant tissue is pushed down before the cut is made resulting in more plant tissue being removed. I believe the quality of cut is the same, and the difference between the 2 is only noticeable on Putting green surfaces at 0.115 HOC, or a fairway cut at 1' with a Triplex moving at 12MPH.

I've gathered this from random posts online, and a few youtube videos, no real facts I can give. :lol:


----------



## Redtenchu

Click here and enter your Model to get the service/operator manual.

http://manuals.deere.com


----------



## Redtenchu

Changed my fluids and belts today, both were needed!

This is from the gearbox, wow.









These belts didn't have much time remaining, glad I changed them before one broke!


----------



## Pete1313

Nice job on the maintenance. :thumbsup: 
Surprised that belt didnt break. What fluid do they use for the gear box? Hy-Gard?


----------



## Redtenchu

JD wants Hy-Gard in the 220B model, I was on the 220a service manual when I purchased the wrong stuff - gear oil (oops). J_Nick alerted me to the mistake, so I'll be picking some up soon to replace the fluid.

I'm also surprised the belt hadn't broke yet.


----------



## J_nick

Not that big of deal when it only holds .4 quarts. I'm about to walk in JD to get new belts and oil for mine


----------



## drlushin

Do you know a place where I can find a good source that breaks down the difference of each walking greens mower model in a side by side comparison.

For example what is the similarity/difference in the 220A's, B's & C's

Ware schooled me on the fact that 220E's have a floating head and electric reel. Just trying to understand the similarity/difference between these different letters.


----------



## Pete1313

The evolution of the JD fixed head walk behind greensmower.
The 22 was made from 1987-1994,
The 220 from 1995-1996,
The 220A from 1997-2002,
The 220B from 2002-2006,
The 220C from 2007-2010, and
The 220SL from 2011-Current.

Design changes were made over the years to various parts of the mowers.

The 220 E-Cut is made from 2010-Current
It is the hybrid floating head design of the JD walk behind greensmower.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Pete1313 said:


> They are the evolution of the JD greensmower.
> The 220A was made from 1997-2002,
> The 220B from 2002-2006,
> The 220C from 2007-2010, and
> The 220SL from 2011-Current.
> 
> Small design changes were made over the years to various parts of the mowers.


Seems they are due for another upgrade and model change


----------



## Redtenchu

Most of the changes are silly, as an example.

The 220A has a fill port for the gearbox, and on the 220B they removed the fill port and made the reel engagement lever the fill port.


----------



## Ware

Cross-posting this online source for JD reel mower parts. :thumbup:



Pete1313 said:


> I use greenfarmparts.com to get my JD parts. good prices, quick shipping.


----------



## Pete1313

Ware said:


> Cross-posting this online source for JD reel mower parts. :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> Pete1313 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I use greenfarmparts.com to get my JD parts. good prices, quick shipping.
Click to expand...

 :thumbsup:


----------



## kur1j

How often should I be adjusting the reel to bedknife? I've mowed twice with mine and after both times it wouldn't cut paper afterwords. I tighten it slightly and it starts cutting paper.


----------



## Cavan806

Red,
How do I switch out the rollers on my JD 260B? I feel like I am missing something here. I was looking at it last night and was wondering if there was a way to do it with out removing the brackets holding them on. Any tips on switching them out?


----------



## Redtenchu

You loosen the small front set bolts keeping the roller in place. Then you will need to loosen and remove at least one of the brackets to allow the roller to come free from the mower. It's fairly straight forward, is there something you are concerned with?


----------



## kur1j

What is everyone using to connect between the reel and the reel backlapping?


----------



## Redtenchu

You can use a large 32 mm socket, or if you look a little closer you can see some threads for a bolt to attach in the center of the shaft. I found something at lowes that matched the threads with a 9/16 head.

Double check the owner manual linked previously in the thread for the correct thread pitch/size.


----------



## J_nick

+1 Red, I use a 32mm socket. It was around $8 at O'reillys. Only took 3 trips to get the correct size


----------



## Cavan806

Redtenchu said:


> You loosen the small front set bolts keeping the roller in place. Then you will need to loosen and remove at least one of the brackets to allow the roller to come free from the mower. It's fairly straight forward, is there something you are concerned with?


I guess I was over thinking it. I was hoping there would be a way to do it quickly without having to re-adjust the height. Being lazy I guess. I'm tired. Three kids are wearing me out. HA


----------



## kur1j

I hit the corner of some concrete with bedknife and it bent it . I'm not sure which bedknife is the stock bedknife.

ET17533	22" Standard
ET17534	22" Tournament
ET17532	22" Fairway, Low-Cut
ET17767	22" Fairway, Hi-Cut
MT7351	22" Low-Cut
ET11066	3.0 mm w/ Hardened Insert

I assume the "standard"?


----------



## Txmx583

So just got a 180B, it's super hard to back up with and go around small curves and trees.... Any tips? Seems like you can't pull it backwards at all when mowing....


----------



## J_nick

With the reel engaged it's impossible to "roll" backwards, you can drag it but the rear roller will not roll. When I need to pull it backwards I lift the rear roller off the ground where only the front roller is on the ground.

For going around objects lower the RPMs as low as you can, it greatly reduces ground speed.


----------



## Txmx583

Thanks J_nick! I've tried doing the low Rpm, if I lower it all the way down the engine dies when I engage the clutch... Maybe the carb needs to be cleaned a little or something. I'll try the lifting to back thing, that makes sense for sure!


----------



## J_nick

Yeah cleaning the carb could help. You could try lowering the RPMs while the reel is moving to get you by.


----------



## gatormac2112

If its too difficult in tight areas I might just have a "fringe" area that I mow with my Fiskars push reel and a trimmer (hopefully I win the one Ware is giving away!). That way I can efficiently mow with the JD _AND_ get to those difficult areas. My Fiskars cuts down to 1" so it definitely would be higher than the main surface.

Not sure if thats how i'll do it, just a thought.


----------



## Txmx583

Yeah I hope you don't win that blade so I can &#128514;&#128514;, would probably work well


----------



## Txmx583

Parking brake doesn't work on my 180b... I've checked the cable for adjustment and it's all the way tight but still have about 1/4" of slack in the brake band.. did the brake band have a pad like material when new? If so maybe I just need a new brake band.


----------



## J_nick

Txmx583 said:


> Parking brake doesn't work on my 180b... I've checked the cable for adjustment and it's all the way tight but still have about 1/4" of slack in the brake band.. did the brake band have a pad like material when new? If so maybe I just need a new brake band.


I'll check next time I go to the shop. TBH I don't use my parking brake at all. I think it's more for transporting it from green to green on a trailer but for us it doesn't have much use.


----------



## Ware

Greens mowers are very heavy and are designed for mowing wide open spaces, so I don't think there was much consideration for things like backing up or mowing close to obstructions. There is definitely a learning curve to using one on a home lawn, but I think my best advice would be to focus on setting yourself up for efficient turns, then use the forward momentum of the mower to begin making the turn. If you get to the end of a run and come to a stop before thinking about changing directions, the weight of the mower will absolutely wear you out. I also start my cut with two perimeter passes, then use that area to make my turns.


----------



## Txmx583

Good to know, I'll try doing two perimeter passes to start and see how that goes. I think I got the turning down already, it's actually not too bad to turn cause the drive roller is split in the middle and will turn opposite directions when pivoting around. Maybe that's how they all are but I'm not sure


----------



## scarlso2

Also if you lower the RPM's, lift the rear roller off the ground, then engage the reel and lightly lower it down again and it won't stall


----------



## Txmx583

scarlso2 said:


> Also if you lower the RPM's, lift the rear roller off the ground, then engage the reel and lightly lower it down again and it won't stall


Good tip!! Thanks Spenser!


----------



## Txmx583

How does everyone measure their HOC? I read the manual with the little tool thing but I don't have it... Tried using a straight edge and ruler but it seemed way off....


----------



## Ware

Txmx583 said:


> How does everyone measure their HOC? I read the manual with the little tool thing but I don't have it... Tried using a straight edge and ruler but it seemed way off....


I would recommend one of these or one of these. Either would work great.


----------



## Txmx583

Ware said:


> Txmx583 said:
> 
> 
> 
> How does everyone measure their HOC? I read the manual with the little tool thing but I don't have it... Tried using a straight edge and ruler but it seemed way off....
> 
> 
> 
> I would recommend one of these or one of these. Either would work great.
Click to expand...

Nice! Thanks Ware! Looks like I have another diy projects haha


----------



## Iriasj2009

Txmx583 said:


> Parking brake doesn't work on my 180b... I've checked the cable for adjustment and it's all the way tight but still have about 1/4" of slack in the brake band.. did the brake band have a pad like material when new? If so maybe I just need a new brake band.


Hey Txmx, I hope you're enjoying your new mower! Yea I could never get the parking break to work but I figured I'd never need it so I didn't worry about fixing it. Also, I had just installed a new carburetor so doubt it is already dirty but some carb cleaner wouldn't hurt. Good luck with your mower!


----------



## Txmx583

Iriasj2009 said:


> Txmx583 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Parking brake doesn't work on my 180b... I've checked the cable for adjustment and it's all the way tight but still have about 1/4" of slack in the brake band.. did the brake band have a pad like material when new? If so maybe I just need a new brake band.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Txmx, I hope you're enjoying your new mower! Yea I could never get the parking break to work but I figured I'd never need it so I didn't worry about fixing it. Also, I had just installed a new carburetor so doubt it is already dirty but some carb cleaner wouldn't hurt. Good luck with your mower!
Click to expand...

Good to know! Thanks Iriasj2009! So far I'm liking it a lot, starting to get the hang of it. I'll try some carb cleaner. It runs decent but dies a lot when letting the clutch out. Especially at low Rpm and sometimes when turning the throttle up. Also it won't start unless the home is on, even if I've been mowing for 30mins or so. Maybe this is normal for the Honda engines, not sure it's my first.


----------



## Iriasj2009

I only used that mower twice and noticed the same issue but that was before I replaced the carburetor. Doubt it's the carburetor but you never know. Try changing the air filter, I replaced the outer padding but not the filter itself.


----------



## Txmx583

Cool, I'll give that a shot thanks


----------



## g-man

I found this website with a lot of the technical manuals for JD mowers in pdf format all in one easy to find table. There is other info in the website like part cross-reference.

http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual


----------



## ABC123

Oh wow. Thanks


----------



## Pete1313

Nice find!


----------



## g-man

Funny story. I sent it to the printer without thinking too much about it. The 220E technical manual is 385 pages. That's almost a ream of paper.

I should have turned on the double side printing and maybe even the 2 pages per page option too.


----------



## Reelnutt

Well I scored again older JD with a groomer $60. It's been sitting for 1 year I got a hold of a spare Kawasaki FE120 so I've got a winter project to work on. 

Image was from seller I'll post some more


----------



## MasterMech

Reelnutt said:


> Well I scored again older JD with a groomer $60. It's been sitting for 1 year I got a hold of a spare Kawasaki FE120 so I've got a winter project to work on.
> 
> Image was from seller I'll post some more


Nice!


----------



## SCGrassMan

Hi all - new poster here. I have Zeon Zoysia and live in SC. I have about 3000 SQ FT. I currently mow with a rotary. I'm looking at a 220SL for the spring season. Currently I mow at about 2", but looking to switch to rotary. My front yard is square, bound on 3 sides by concrete, and I have a 7' diameter circular bed in the middle of the yard for the front. The back is like the shape of Utah with 3 trees in the middle. So I have a few questions 

How do people mow along things like sidewalks, etc? I wasn't really thinking about that much until somebody in here mentioned bending a cutter in the process. Also, how high will this particular mower actually go? And how long will it take the grass to adapt to a lower cut height and rotary cut?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## MasterMech

SCGrassMan said:


> Hi all - new poster here. I have Zeon Zoysia and live in SC. I have about 3000 SQ FT. I currently mow with a rotary. I'm looking at a 220SL for the spring season. Currently I mow at about 2", but looking to switch to rotary. My front yard is square, bound on 3 sides by concrete, and I have a 7' diameter circular bed in the middle of the yard for the front. The back is like the shape of Utah with 3 trees in the middle. So I have a few questions
> 
> How do people mow along things like sidewalks, etc? I wasn't really thinking about that much until somebody in here mentioned bending a cutter in the process. Also, how high will this particular mower actually go? And how long will it take the grass to adapt to a lower cut height and rotary cut?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Concrete can present a problem if it's above the soil height of your lawn. You will want to avoid banging into it or worse, clipping it with a reel/bedknife. That's almost guaranteed to damage the reel/knife beyond reasonable repair.

If the concrete is below the soil level slightly, you can "hang" the edge of the reel out a bit and cut everything. Then you only need t go back and edge with a trimmer or edger. If you need to cut along anything higher than soil grade, get as close as you are comfortable and use a trimmer to clean up the rest. I know I have to be careful with my Jacobsen and the left side. If I get too close, I will damage the belt cover (cast aluminum) and it's an expensive part.

Most greensmowers will do 1", some will go to 1.25" with special hardware. Machines like a Tru-Cut or McClane would do higher cuts.


----------



## SCGrassMan

The grass is above the level of the concrete. Do you have an opinion on the number of blades best suited? I think the "standard" is 14 blades but I've seen some here talk about 7 or 11. I was also looking at changing the bed knife to a fairway model as I've seen some mention to get a little more height.


----------



## Ware

SCGrassMan said:


> The grass is above the level of the concrete. Do you have an opinion on the number of blades best suited? I think the "standard" is 14 blades but I've seen some here talk about 7 or 11. I was also looking at changing the bed knife to a fairway model as I've seen some mention to get a little more height.


If you're choosing, fewer blades is theoretically better for the HOC's most of us are working with.


----------



## SCGrassMan

That's helpful to know. I appreciate it!

The auctions earlier, was that through that same Global Turf, or do they only do "normal" sales? I looked through their site and didn't find anything about auctions.


----------



## g-man

The number of blades affect your frequency of cut (FOC). As the reel turns it will hit/grab the blades and push them against the bedknife. A too frequent clip rate leads to hitting the leafs too often (damage) and bending them so that they dont get cut. Ideally you want the FOC = HOC.

The FOC of the QA5 7 blade is 0.75" using the 220E electric motor adjustment, so your HOC should be 0.75in. The 11 and 14 blade reels are too frequent.

This video might shows the effect of the FOC on green mowing heights. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEex4Rt4qGs


----------



## SCGrassMan

Hmmm... I may have misUnderstood the video. It looks like less FOC means more "waves" and more FOC means a more even cut and less waves. What am I missing?


----------



## MasterMech

SCGrassMan said:


> Hmmm... I may have misUnderstood the video. It looks like less FOC means more "waves" and more FOC means a more even cut and less waves. What am I missing?


If you see "waves" in the cut, then the FOC is likely indeed too slow. I would not expect that on a 5" 7 or 8 blade reel unless you got down to or under 0.250". The faster FOC gets, the mower will take smaller bites. This is fine as long as you mow frequently enough. The lower you mow, the more frequently you will need to mow anyways. This is partially why golf greens are mowed at around 0.125" on a daily basis during peak growing season. However, if you took the greens mower, made no changes, and tried to cut the rough with it, it might cut some, but most of the grass would just get pushed over, and slide under the bedknife, evading the cutting action of the reel.

Many here are successfully using 11 blade reels on turf, both warm and cool season, that is .500" to 1" tall. As long as you are not trying to mow 2" grass down to 1", it works ok. The first few times I mowed my Annual Ryegrass overseed with the Jake 526a, it had an 11-blade reel on it. I had to use my Lawn Tractor to knock everything down as low as possible without hitting dirt, and then the Jake cut fine, especially after a double cut. Subsequent mowings went ok, but double-cuts were pretty much mandatory. Now that I've got the 7-blade reel in it, it has no trouble knocking 1.5" grass down to an inch with a single pass.

The hybrid mowers (use an electric motor to drive the reel) are easy to adjust the FOC. (via a knob setting) Some mowers, like the Toro's, offer "clip kits" that slow down the reel RPMs to help optimize FOC. A little overkill on the FOC is unlikely to damage your home lawn turf mowed at .500" or better. At worst, the unit just won't cut anything with too much growth.


----------



## g-man

SCGrassMan said:


> Hmmm... I may have misUnderstood the video. It looks like less FOC means more "waves" and more FOC means a more even cut and less waves. What am I missing?


In the video they dont discuss the HOC, so it is confusing. MasterMech gave an excellent description.

This is a Toro manual, but it gives good general reel knowledge. Page 13-15 discuss the FOC in relation to the HOC.
Reel Mower Basics


----------



## SCGrassMan

You guys are awesomely helpful here. Definitely appreciate it. Does anybody know when the next equipment auction is?


----------



## g-man

I found this pdf with a cross reference of JD parts to standard bearings part numbers. In some cases it is a significant saving, on others the JD price is cheaper. Some of these you could read the bearing number printed on the part after you take it out and clean it, but using this list allows to order the part ahead of time.

http://www.techsales-golfcoursedivision.com/product-price-guide-14.pdf


----------



## drlushin

Weeks Farm Auction is having another auction on Feb 28. I think its an online auction.

@Pete1313 @Ware 
Can you tell me how to set the HOC on the groomer on my 260sl? Typically how low should i set groomer in relation to the reel HOC?

Thanks for any help you can offer


----------



## Ware

drlushin said:


> Can you tell me how to set the HOC on the groomer on my 260sl? Typically how low should i set groomer in relation to the reel HOC?


Here is a link to the 260SL Operator Manual. Adjusting Greens Tender Conditioner (GTC/groomer) is covered in Section 25.

It looks like JD gives a spec of 1/32" below cutting height for the GTC, but that's for golf green HOC's. I think the folks who are using groomers regularly here on a home lawn are going much deeper - like upwards for 50%+ below HOC when the turf isn't stressed.

There is a thread about the Weeks Auction here.


----------



## drlushin

You sir are a gentleman & a scholar. Thanks buddy!


----------



## g-man

drlushin said:


> Can you tell me how to set the HOC on the groomer on my 260sl? Typically how low should i set groomer in relation to the reel HOC?
> 
> Thanks for any help you can offer





g-man said:


> I found this website with a lot of the technical manuals for JD mowers in pdf format all in one easy to find table. There is other info in the website like part cross-reference.
> 
> http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual


Go to that website and download the technical manual for the 260SL. In page 134 it discusses the cutting unit. Groomer setup is in page 149 (up to 1mm below HOC, per manual).

Ware beat me to the post.


----------



## gatormac2112

Yeah I'm wanting to cut at 0.75 inch with my JD 220e, but it's an 11 blade reel and according to the manual the max it will cut and maintain appropriate FOC is 0.48 inch. The 7 blade is what I would need and I don't know where I could get a new one or how much it would cost.


----------



## g-man

The 7 blade for the 220e is part number tca19350. A new one is $325 at r&r or $350 at greenfarmparts.com (free shipping). You could also Google search and find a used one.

Changing the reel means that you should also change the reel bearings and bedknife.

You could find all the part diagrams and order from gfp here: https://www.greenfarmparts.com/articles.asp?ID=287#/John_Deere/220_E-Cut_Hybrid_Walk_Greens_Mower_-PC9903/CUTTING_UNIT_REELS%3a_Frame_%26_Reel/99030002/9903D301C0508000004


----------



## Ware

gatormac2112 said:


> Yeah I'm wanting to cut at 0.75 inch with my JD 220e, but it's an 11 blade reel and according to the manual the max it will cut and maintain appropriate FOC is 0.48 inch. The 7 blade is what I would need and I don't know where I could get a new one or how much it would cost.


I wouldn't worry too much about the FOC. A HOC/FOC mismatch is not "ideal", but it's unlikely that you would ever notice on a lawn. I would address it if you ever swap the reel, but you should be fine until then.

I never had any issues with my 11-blade GM1000, and I have even seen some good looking grass cut with a 14-blade.


----------



## gatormac2112

g-man said:


> The 7 blade for the 220e is part number tca19350. A new one is $325 at r&r or $350 at greenfarmparts.com. You could also Google search and find a used one.
> 
> Changing the reel means that you should also change the reel bearings and bedknife.
> 
> You could find all the part diagrams and order from gfp here: https://www.greenfarmparts.com/articles.asp?ID=287#/John_Deere/220_E-Cut_Hybrid_Walk_Greens_Mower_-PC9903/CUTTING_UNIT_REELS%3a_Frame_%26_Reel/99030002/9903D301C0508000004


OK great, thanks!

I suppose this will be harder than changing a Swardman cartridge :lol:


----------



## drlushin

g-man thanks for the additional resource & going the extra mile to pinpoint the page numbers.

This forum is definitely a special place. Appreciate yall!


----------



## g-man

gatormac2112 said:


> I suppose this will be harder than changing a Swardman cartridge :lol:


Hard? I dont think it is hard at all, but it does takes a lot more time and shop towels.


----------



## gatormac2112

g-man said:


> gatormac2112 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I suppose this will be harder than changing a Swardman cartridge :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Hard? I dont think it is hard at all, but it does takes a lot more time and shop towels.
Click to expand...

Well I'm someone that finds great pride in checking the oil correctly, soooo.....I'm not mechanically inclined AT ALL.


----------



## MasterMech

Ware said:


> gatormac2112 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I'm wanting to cut at 0.75 inch with my JD 220e, but it's an 11 blade reel and according to the manual the max it will cut and maintain appropriate FOC is 0.48 inch. The 7 blade is what I would need and I don't know where I could get a new one or how much it would cost.
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't worry too much about the FOC. A HOC/FOC mismatch is not "ideal", but it's unlikely that you would ever notice on a lawn. I would address it if you ever swap the reel, but you should be fine until then.
> 
> I never had any issues with my 11-blade GM1000, and I have even seen some good looking grass cut with a 14-blade.
Click to expand...

It's all in how much length you ask the reel to cut off in one go. As long as you are mowing frequently enough, an 11-blade will mow much higher than .500". But it will be a whole lot less forgiving if you miss a day or four due to weather or vacation. And yes, reel mowers work just fine in the rain, it's the operator that gets cantankerous!


----------



## FRD135i

Yeeeeesssssssss!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## gatormac2112

FRD135i said:


> Yeeeeesssssssss!!!!!!!!!!!!


Nice! :thumbup:


----------



## FRD135i

Changed the fluids and let her run for a bit. Oil that came out looked pretty good, I have seen worse come out of my car. Did the paper test and had clean cuts across the reel. Very happy with the auction buy, so far I think I got a good one.

Just one question,
It runs great on choke. After I run it for a bit I can take it off choke and it will idle fine. The second I give some throttle it bogs down and wants to die.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance


----------



## gatormac2112

FRD135i said:


> Changed the fluids and let her run for a bit. Oil that came out looked pretty good, I have seen worse come out of my car. Did the paper test and had clean cuts across the reel. Very happy with the auction buy, so far I think I got a good one.
> 
> Just one question,
> It runs great on choke. After I run it for a bit I can take it off choke and it will idle fine. The second I give some throttle it bogs down and wants to die.
> Any ideas? Thanks in advance


This will seem like a Captain Obvious question, but are you taking the brake off before throttling? I've forgotten to do that a couple times and it of course bogged down. Otherwise are you cutting too much thick grass and it bogs down due to that? Or are you talking about no brake, sitting in short grass or pavement and it bogs down when throttled?


----------



## J_nick

Pull the carb off and clean the main jet


----------



## gatormac2112

J_nick said:


> Pull the carb off and clean the main jet


I would need a Youtube video to show me how


----------



## FRD135i

J_nick said:


> Pull the carb off and clean the main jet


Thanks @@J_nick, I will give that a shot. Any chance I would have to tune the carb (high/low)?


----------



## FRD135i

gatormac2112 said:


> FRD135i said:
> 
> 
> 
> Changed the fluids and let her run for a bit. Oil that came out looked pretty good, I have seen worse come out of my car. Did the paper test and had clean cuts across the reel. Very happy with the auction buy, so far I think I got a good one.
> 
> Just one question,
> It runs great on choke. After I run it for a bit I can take it off choke and it will idle fine. The second I give some throttle it bogs down and wants to die.
> Any ideas? Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> This will seem like a Captain Obvious question, but are you taking the brake off before throttling? I've forgotten to do that a couple times and it of course bogged down. Otherwise are you cutting too much thick grass and it bogs down due to that? Or are you talking about no brake, sitting in short grass or pavement and it bogs down when throttled?
Click to expand...

No load, just giving it throttle.


----------



## gatormac2112

FRD135i said:


> gatormac2112 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FRD135i said:
> 
> 
> 
> Changed the fluids and let her run for a bit. Oil that came out looked pretty good, I have seen worse come out of my car. Did the paper test and had clean cuts across the reel. Very happy with the auction buy, so far I think I got a good one.
> 
> Just one question,
> It runs great on choke. After I run it for a bit I can take it off choke and it will idle fine. The second I give some throttle it bogs down and wants to die.
> Any ideas? Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> This will seem like a Captain Obvious question, but are you taking the brake off before throttling? I've forgotten to do that a couple times and it of course bogged down. Otherwise are you cutting too much thick grass and it bogs down due to that? Or are you talking about no brake, sitting in short grass or pavement and it bogs down when throttled?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No load, just giving it throttle.
Click to expand...

Ahhhh, my mistake


----------



## J_nick

FRD135i said:


> J_nick said:
> 
> 
> 
> Pull the carb off and clean the main jet
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks J_nick, I will give that a shot. Any chance I would have to tune the carb (high/low)?
Click to expand...

If I remember correctly I don't think so. I just went out and looked at mine and you could do it without removing the carb. There is enough room to take the bowl off and access the main jet.


----------



## FRD135i

J_nick said:


> FRD135i said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J_nick said:
> 
> 
> 
> Pull the carb off and clean the main jet
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks J_nick, I will give that a shot. Any chance I would have to tune the carb (high/low)?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If I remember correctly I don't think so. I just went out and looked at mine and you could do it without removing the carb. There is enough room to take the bowl off and access the main jet.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks!


----------



## Rockinar

Are these 220SL selling for $1800 good deals? Bad deals? It keeps mentioning Honda motors. Are these aftermarket engines on here? I don't know anything about SLs other than brand new they are $10K.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-JOHN-DEERE-220SL-GREENS-MOWER-HONDA-MOTOR-RUNS-GREAT-1/263550305532?_trkparms=pageci%3A709c445a-2889-11e8-9496-74dbd180496e%7Cparentrq%3A2b324e4b1620a9924374a135fffc0ecd%7Ciid%3A1&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236


----------



## Ware

Rockinar said:


> Are these 220SL selling for $1800 good deals? Bad deals? It keeps mentioning Honda motors. Are these aftermarket engines on here? I don't know anything about SLs other than brand new they are $10K.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/2012-JOHN-DEERE-220SL-GREENS-MOWER-HONDA-MOTOR-RUNS-GREAT-1/263550305532?_trkparms=pageci%3A709c445a-2889-11e8-9496-74dbd180496e%7Cparentrq%3A2b324e4b1620a9924374a135fffc0ecd%7Ciid%3A1&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236


JD uses Honda engines (with black paint) on their walk mowers.

Price can vary a lot depending on condition and who is selling them. Those look pretty clean. Here is the breakdown on the models/years:



Pete1313 said:


> They are the evolution of the JD greensmower.
> The 220A was made from 1997-2002,
> The 220B from 2002-2006,
> The 220C from 2007-2010, and
> The 220SL from 2011-Current.
> 
> Small design changes were made over the years to various parts of the mowers.


----------



## Redtenchu

I made a simple video of how I backlap a JD 220. I hope it helps someone!

https://youtu.be/bf1drztxnl8


----------



## FRD135i

Redtenchu said:


> I made a simple video of how I backlap a JD 220. I hope it helps someone!


Helped a bunch, many thanks!!!


----------



## Piwko4

Redtenchu said:


> I made a simple video of how I backlap a JD 220. I hope it helps someone!


If your lapping a new knife, wouldn't you want to use a lower, more aggressive compound first? Once the reel and knife are parallel, then you can use the higher less aggressive grits to keep it sharp.


----------



## Redtenchu

Piwko4 said:


> If your lapping a new knife, wouldn't you want to use a lower, more aggressive compound first? Once the reel and knife are parallel, then you can use the higher less aggressive grits to keep it sharp.


No. If you need more aggressive compound, you likely have a coned reel and will need a full Reel grind or a replacement reel.


----------



## Thor865

Cleaned up my mower today and noticed a small nick on one blade on my reel. I haven't hit anything that I know of. I have a new Bedknife coming tomorrow because it's also got a small nick same place that the one blade does. Hadn't noticed the reel until today. 😭

So what should I do?


----------



## Redtenchu

@Thor865 I wouldn't worry about it unless the metal is raised.


----------



## Thor865

Redtenchu said:


> @Thor865 I wouldn't worry about it unless the metal is raised.


Do you believe by putting on my new Bedknife (fairway high cut) and backlapping will help that spot?


----------



## Redtenchu

Thor865 said:


> Redtenchu said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thor865 I wouldn't worry about it unless the metal is raised.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you believe by putting on my new Bedknife (fairway high cut) and backlapping will help that spot?
Click to expand...

I don't think it will help that spot, but if it's not raised you shouldn't have any problems. You also shouldn't notice any diffrence in cut quality unless you are below 0.25 HOC.


----------



## Txmx583

I had a bad nick in mine (like reel wouldn't spin) and had no idea how it got there. I filed it down with my dremel tool until it matched the rest of the blade as best as I could. Works fine now and I have not noticed any difference in cut.

It scared the crap out of me though, I thought for sure I was going to have to buy a new reel. In which case I have no idea where to buy one haha


----------



## Thor865

Txmx583 said:


> I had a bad nick in mine (like reel wouldn't spin) and had no idea how it got there. I filed it down with my dremel tool until it matched the rest of the blade as best as I could. Works fine now and I have not noticed any difference in cut.
> 
> It scared the crap out of me though, I thought for sure I was going to have to buy a new reel. In which case I have no idea where to buy one haha


Good to know! Prob been there a bit but hadn't noticed any difference.


----------



## Rockinar

Doesnt a new bedknife need a angle grind put on it? Or no?


----------



## wartee

Rockinar said:


> Doesnt a new bedknife need a angle grind put on it? Or no?


They come with a factory ground face and edge, but I always lightly grind them after installing to the shoe to take out any waviness that might be caused by the screws. If you lap it should be close enough to lap it briefly to get it straight.


----------



## J_nick

Txmx583 said:


> I had a bad nick in mine (like reel wouldn't spin) and had no idea how it got there. I filed it down with my dremel tool until it matched the rest of the blade as best as I could. Works fine now and I have not noticed any difference in cut.
> 
> It scared the crap out of me though, I thought for sure I was going to have to buy a new reel. In which case I have no idea where to buy one haha


Many here, including myself, have used R&R Products. They carry parts for most of the popular brands, sorry @Mightyquinn. For John Deere parts you can also look up your part numbers on 
JD parts catalog then go to Green Farm Parts and enter them in to price/ buy them. 3rd option would to call your local JD dealer and see if they are a golf dealer (some aren't and won't be able to order anything Golf related) even if they aren't they will know the nearest dealer that is. It still helps to have the part numbers you need and they will take your order over the phone and have it shipped to your house.


----------



## Txmx583

J_nick said:


> Txmx583 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had a bad nick in mine (like reel wouldn't spin) and had no idea how it got there. I filed it down with my dremel tool until it matched the rest of the blade as best as I could. Works fine now and I have not noticed any difference in cut.
> 
> It scared the crap out of me though, I thought for sure I was going to have to buy a new reel. In which case I have no idea where to buy one haha
> 
> 
> 
> Many here, including myself, have used R&R Products. They carry parts for most of the popular brands, sorry @Mightyquinn. For John Deere parts you can also look up your part numbers on
> JD parts catalog then go to Green Farm Parts and enter them in to price/ buy them. 3rd option would to call your local JD dealer and see if they are a golf dealer (some aren't and won't be able to order anything Golf related) even if they aren't they will know the nearest dealer that is. It still helps to have the part numbers you need and they will take your order over the phone and have it shipped to your house.
Click to expand...

Great into, thanks @j_nick


----------



## MasterMech

J_nick said:


> Txmx583 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had a bad nick in mine (like reel wouldn't spin) and had no idea how it got there. I filed it down with my dremel tool until it matched the rest of the blade as best as I could. Works fine now and I have not noticed any difference in cut.
> 
> It scared the crap out of me though, I thought for sure I was going to have to buy a new reel. In which case I have no idea where to buy one haha
> 
> 
> 
> Many here, including myself, have used R&R Products. They carry parts for most of the popular brands, sorry @Mightyquinn. For John Deere parts you can also look up your part numbers on
> JD parts catalog then go to Green Farm Parts and enter them in to price/ buy them. 3rd option would to call your local JD dealer and see if they are a golf dealer (some aren't and won't be able to order anything Golf related) even if they aren't they will know the nearest dealer that is. It still helps to have the part numbers you need and they will take your order over the phone and have it shipped to your house.
Click to expand...

And sometimes, if you have the part number, that part may be used on a non-golf piece of equipment and they could get the part for you. Not going to help with reel specific stuff however.


----------



## atc4usmc

Quick question for those that know. I recently mowed with my JD 180C and noticed a squeaking from the reel when it was turning. It wasn't that loud but definitely there. Any thoughts? Grease the reel bearings?


----------



## MasterMech

atc4usmc said:
 

> Quick question for those that know. I recently mowed with my JD 180C and noticed a squeaking from the reel when it was turning. It wasn't that loud but definitely there. Any thoughts? Grease the reel bearings?


How much reel to bedknife contact is there?


----------



## kur1j

I think I'm needing to replace my belts on my 220c. When I engage the reel mechanism I hear a chirp and then sometimes I feel/see/hear a vibration/shudder while the reel in starting up (at least thats what I'm hoping the issue is). The chirp has been there awhile, the vibration/shudder is new. Reel seems fine after its been engaged for a few seconds.

I looked up the parts AMT2800 for the belt. 28$ for a set of belts seems pretty high (why am I not surprised its a JD reel mower everything is expensive). Does anyone know the exact size of the belts or after-market belts that I could find potentially cheaper?


----------



## atc4usmc

MasterMech, I will double check it this weekend but I just recently backlapped and had zero squeal/squeak. I honestly dont think its reel to bedknife contact. What else?


----------



## MasterMech

atc4usmc said:


> MasterMech, I will double check it this weekend but I just recently backlapped and had zero squeal/squeak. I honestly dont think its reel to bedknife contact. What else?


Turn the reel by hand and pay attention to the leading edge of each blade. Does the reel squeak after the blade sweeps a specific spot on the knife? Is it just one blade? If it's 100% not the reel even lightly touching the knife, then sure, give those bearings a couple shots of grease. You won't hurt it and you will find out quick if that's the problem.

If the grease doesn't help..... Deere's are chain driven right? I'd pull the cover, line the chain with a good, penetrating/clinging chain lube and make sure none of the idler/tensioner sprockets are the source of the squeak.


----------



## kur1j

@atc4usmc

Do you hear it constantly while mowing or was it on the initial startup of the reel? I have a funny noise as well (I don't want to say grinding as I feel that is too harsh) when my reel initially engages. I did the same as you, backlapped and don't see how the reel could be hitting anything.

I'm planning on doing what @MasterMech suggested with the grease but I am also changing the belts. I don't think its lack of grease because I just greased everything and I've mowed 3 times (maybe 2 hours worth of actual mowing). The chain I know probably needs a link taken out of it as its maxed out on the adjustment for it.


----------



## Txmx583

Well.... I was mowing today and the reel hit a concrete pipe surround and bent one of the reel blades slightly... I was able to grind the damaged piece with my dremel and finish the lawn but I'll need a new reel now


----------



## Txmx583

So I'm going to order the reel and bedknife, but there are like 4 different options for bedknifes... I'm guessing tournament is std, what should I get? Like to keep my turf between 1/2 and 3/4". This will be on my 180b that I f'ed up today.


----------



## J_nick

kur1j said:


> I think I'm needing to replace my belts on my 220c. When I engage the reel mechanism I hear a chirp and then sometimes I feel/see/hear a vibration/shudder while the reel in starting up (at least thats what I'm hoping the issue is). The chirp has been there awhile, the vibration/shudder is new. Reel seems fine after its been engaged for a few seconds.
> 
> I looked up the parts AMT2800 for the belt. 28$ for a set of belts seems pretty high (why am I not surprised its a JD reel mower everything is expensive). Does anyone know the exact size of the belts or after-market belts that I could find potentially cheaper?


You could try adjusting the belt tension. Mine were slipping bad on my mower so I bought a new set. When I went to take them off they didn't look too bad so I just went through John Deere 20 step procedure for setting the belt tension and it has worked like a charm for 2 years now. Still have the new belts sitting on the shelf for backup.

220C Manual down under Service - Belts


----------



## wartee

Txmx583 said:


> So I'm going to order the reel and bedknife, but there are like 4 different options for bedknifes... I'm guessing tournament is std, what should I get? Like to keep my turf between 1/2 and 3/4". This will be on my 180b that I f'ed up today.


I run the thick knives on mine...they work great at those heights and there's a lot more material on them so they should last a lot longer.


----------



## g-man

^ hi cut fairway is the thicker one.


----------



## Txmx583

Thanks guys, can the high cut one still go down to like 1/4"? I scalp there sometimes.


----------



## g-man

Bedknife chart with min heights:

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B7QaaYwb_60eOEF3SE1LZVh1VEE/edit?usp=drive_web

0.3in is the min HOC for the hicut.


----------



## MasterMech

Txmx583 said:


> Thanks guys, can the high cut one still go down to like 1/4"? I scalp there sometimes.


This depends on how level your lawn is. Min on a heavy knife is .300", and that's only going to work well if the lawn is quite level.


----------



## kur1j

So I did basically a full service of my 220c.

I ended up tightening the belt, and greasing all the fitting. I also ended up taking a link out of both the reel chain and the rear drum chain.

I backlapped and it was cutting paper all the way across the reel.

I cut the yard today with it and everything seemed to work well, but something sounded off. I can't quite tell if belts are squeaking, the reel making the noise or something else.

The only thing I did not service is the gear case oil. I didn't have any of the oil it called for and it wasn't clear to me in the instructions on how to check the actual levels.

Does this sound off to you? Also I know this might sound stupid but sometimes when i run up next to something I have to pull the thing backwards to back it out of an area. It's noticeably more difficult to do with the reel engaged. Is there any potential damage of me pulling on it backwards (obviously just in neutral)?

https://youtu.be/5B67MVUSrxU


----------



## g-man

It does sound wired. I there a way to drive it with the reel not turning? Also, do you normally use that rpm? It sounds high.

Can you lift the back of the machine so that the drum is not touching and try to engage the drive? I'm just trying to isolate between reel vs drum issue.

On the 220e, you just add more transfer case oil until it doesn't take anymore (spills out).


----------



## kur1j

@g-man I can do a recording of just the mower/drum running without the reel engaged. But I can't have the reel run without the drum rolling. I can prop it up on some wood and run them both tomorrow.

It's about 3/4 throttle I would say. I don't want to lug the engine too much. I would say it's maybe a little higher than normal but nothing extreme.

The information in the service manual is really vague. What type of oil is it expecting? Just motor oil?


----------



## Pete1313

kur1j said:


> The information in the service manual is really vague. What type of oil is it expecting? Just motor oil?


John Deere hy-gard. Make sure the engine and gear case are level before checking by putting a block of wood under the front roller.

For the noise, try to isolate it like g-man said. If it only happens when the reel is engaged, and reel/Bedknife clearance is good, check the reel shield and adjust the clearance. If that is ok maybe try replacing the Bedknife adjuster springs as they might be worn. These machines have an adjuster spring that pushes the knife away from the reel instead of towards it on a QA5.

Also the drive and reel chains should have some deflection in them. 1/4" on the reel, 7/16" on the drive chains.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1500&start=20#p28734


----------



## kur1j

@Pete1313 @g-man

I'm almost sure this is something to do with the reel/reel system (but i've been wrong before). I can't tell what's going on though. The reel to bedknife seems fine. It's not hitting a thing. I touch on it in the video but after moving the unit around on the blocks and off the blocks, picking the unit up and setting it back down the bedknife clearance wasn't quite the same. You mentioned it might be the springs? I just wouldn't have thought that would cause the rough running and vibration.

Descriptions of problem.






Drum only and reel engaged.






Reel engaged different angle.






Reel to bedknife earlier today before the first video in this post.


----------



## Pete1313

To make sure we have the symptom right, you are talking about the chattering/rattling when the reel is engaged correct? Can you do one more test and back the Bedknife completely off of the reel where it is definitely not touching anything and then retry it with the reel engaged?


----------



## kur1j

Pete1313 said:


> To make sure we have the symptom right, you are talking about the chattering/rattling when the reel is engaged correct? Can you do one more test and back the Bedknife completely off of the reel where it is definitely not touching anything and then retry it with the reel engaged?


@Pete1313

Yes, the chattering sound and vibration noise. Whatever is causing the vibration, it is making the engine on the frame shake, working light shake, and all kinds of odd behavior with the machine it seems. I messed up and copy and pasted the wrong video from the "different angle".

This shows the issue pretty well. 




As soon as I start the reel the motor and everything is shaking like crazy.

Sure, I can take another video of it after backing off the reel to bedknife so there is plenty of clearance.


----------



## g-man

@kur1j and turn off the grommer.


----------



## kur1j

@g-man

The groomer is off. I just assume that because the housing is full of grease there is enough movement to cause it to move.

@Pete1313

Here is a video of me backing off the reel and bedknife to about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch clearance. The chattering seems to still happen.


----------



## g-man

Hmm, Pete has the experience with these, but to me the there should not be much noise when you turn it by hand and the bedknife is not touching.

I would take the chain cover off and run it with it off to see if the chain is acting up.


----------



## kur1j

@g-man Good idea.

I'll try that tomorrow. This was happening before I messed with anything. Honestly this noise is what prompted me to give everything a once over. I knew the chains were all super loose after I installed the reel back. I adjusted the tensioner as far as I could but it had a good 1"-1.5" of deflection. Both the reel and drive chain were the same. I ended up taking a half link out of both of them and readjusted the chains. I'm not 100% sure on the amount deflection but it wasn't so tight that there was 0 deflection. There was some deflection in both. Roughly .3 to .5" on both.

There doesn't sound to be much noise at all. I can just hear what I believe is the chain and sprockets mating. This noise was happening before I touched any of it.

Now that i'm lookong at the diagrams the gear box also has a chain in it. The operators manual doesn't say anything about maintenance on those chains. I'm wondering if they are to loose and hitting the enclosure?

I seem to be able to smooth it out the faster the engine runs. The faster the engine runs the less the chain could flop around in the gearbox enclosure would be my logic?


----------



## g-man

Go to this website and download the technical manual. It is the manual the JD techs use and it has a ton of extra info.



g-man said:


> I found this website with a lot of the technical manuals for JD mowers in pdf format all in one easy to find table. There is other info in the website like part cross-reference.
> 
> http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual


PS I had too much coffee today and I can't fall asleep, so I'm catching up in the warm season folder.


----------



## g-man

These are tight turn radius for the chains. I would not recommend just taking a link off. The distance between the sprocket teeth doesnt change, but the distance between links has grown. This makes the sprocket teeth hit the next link and cause wear on the sprocket and damage to the chain.


----------



## Pete1313

kur1j said:


> There doesn't sound to be much noise at all. I can just hear what I believe is the chain and sprockets mating. This noise was happening before I touched any of it.


In the videos, their appears to be a chattering noise. Is just the vibration the issue? as you said there doesn't seem to be much noise. Or was this in reference to when you spin it by hand?


----------



## kur1j

@Pete1313 I was referencing when I spin the reel by hand that there doesn't seem to be much noise.

The chattering and vibrations is what I'm talking about when you engage the reel with the engine on.


----------



## kur1j

@g-man I just figured the link in the chain wouldn't matter since it was stretched out enough so that it couldn't be adjusted any more with only the tensioner. Taking a link out reduces the overall length but wouldn't change anything else.

If anything I can just order new chains they don't seem to be that expensive.

So I was actually reading that last night. There is a section in the document in the power train section that states "Symptom: Noisy Operation". I'm going to confirm that this is a problem with the powertrain by removing the chain from the reel so it no longer spins. If it still makes noise while the reel chain is off then I'm going to be taking a wild guess that this is a damn bearing or something going bad in the gear box. 
It's just unfortunate because I won't be able to fix this i'm 2 days and I just started mowing again and won't be able to fix this in just 2 days .


----------



## Pete1313

kur1j said:


> Pete1313 I was referencing when I spin the reel by hand that there doesn't seem to be much noise.
> 
> The chattering and vibrations is what I'm talking about when you engage the reel with the engine on.


Got it. My main job is an auto technician and on NVH (noise, vibration, harshness) complaints it's important to get the symptoms correct. Tougher when diagnosing over video. I think your next step is to run it with the cover off and look at the chains. Then take the reel chain off, inspect the top sprocket that goes to the gearbox, remove it, and make sure it is ok and that the key way isnt worn. Then run it with the gearbox engaged and the reel chain off to see if the noise is coming from the gearbox. Also check the level and condition of the gearbox oil.


----------



## kur1j

@Pete1313 Thanks appreciate the tips.

I've been reading up on this gearbox and I'm still confused on how to tell how much oil is supposed to go in it. The docs seem to say "check oil level" but doesn't specify how's It mentioned to fill go the "bottom of the oil fill port" but I haven't been able to figure out what the "oil fill port" actually is.

If it ends up being something with the gear box have you taken off the motor and opened the gear box? Looking at the diagrams I would be betting it's a bearing going bad. At some point I would love to mow once without having to replace something haha.


----------



## Pete1313

Level the machine/engine. Oil should be at the bottom of the drain hole. To fill, remove the engagement lever and fill thru there until it is at the bottom of the drain hole.

Under Section 40 - Service Lubrication
"Checking and Filling Gear Case"
http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMTCU37245_19/?tM=

I have not been inside of a gearbox yet.


----------



## kur1j

@Pete1313

Thanks but still doesn't quite make sense for me. The statement in the documentation of "oil should be at the bottom of drain hole." confuses me.

To me that's like pulling the drain plug out of a car and a little oil comes out and then saying "yup there's enough" when in reality you might be 1 gallon short on oil. That's the lowest part of the gearbox. Which means that all oil will collect there. Even if there is just a small amount it, the oil would be in that's location.

Now in the service manual on page 92 on its troubleshoot section it states "Is oil up to the bottom of the oil fill port?". If the fill port is the little knob that you use to turn on the reel unit then that's makes more sense...and to me translates to basically "fill it up completely". Would that be the way that translates to you?

I messed with it yesterday some and couldn't get the lever (knob) out. I spend about 5 minutes fiddling with it and gave up because it was late. Do you know if that lever (knob) should just come off fairly easily?


----------



## Pete1313

kur1j said:


> That's the lowest part of the gearbox.


That is the confusion. The drain plug is not the lowest part of the gear case. It is higher up. When the machine is level, the required amount of fluid will be below the drain plug hole and still in the gear box. Similar to how you check a rear differential on a pickup truck.

In order to get all of the fluid out of the drain plug on the JD, you need to tilt the machine all the way back on the handlebars


----------



## kur1j

@Pete1313 Ahh, okay that makes more sense than filling it up. Granted the service manual kind of contradicts that with their statement of filling to the bottom of the fill port. It's not in front of me and maybe I'm just not visualizing the differences and the levels of the fill line are indeed at places where filling to the bottom of the fill port would make sense.

At this rate it seems that I'm going to inevitably put my hand on every single damn nut and bolt of this stupid thing whether I want to or not. I'm just hoping that something expensive doesn't end up going out on me. But I figure that eventually I'll replace enough stuff where things won't break every time I mow.


----------



## Reelcrazy

I'm running a 220b and I thinks it's almost time for a new reel should be fine till fall. My old ones kinda been though hell between sand, stones, sticks and bent blade but always been able to make it work. I know I have a bent blade so looking at new reels and my question is do new reels have to be sharpen or do they come ready to go out of the box? Hope to hear from you all thanks


----------



## Greendoc

Here's what I do when replacing reel + bedknife. I install both and then set them for light contact. Then the machine gets backlapped with 180 or 220 grit lapping compound. Works every time. I would spin grind a reel if only the bedknife is being replaced otherwise the defects of the reel are transferred to the new bedknife when backlapped.


----------



## Reelcrazy

Sounds good. Just wasn't sure of how the new reels come.


----------



## kur1j

@Pete1313 @g-man

To summarize. This is what I have done. Got home, took the chain cover off and made sure I had the grinding/chattering noise. Took the chain off and ran it again. Didn't sound like there were any chattering/grinding/odd noises. I ran the reel with my drill to make sure that I was spinning the reel fast enough, no noises either. Put the chain back on and the chattering seemed to have returned...

So far with this information it seems that @g-man you were correct that taking a half link out changed something to where it's hitting the sprocket improperly? The only other potential thing I can think that is causing this problem is when there is load being put on the gear-case it causes the vibration (which would point to the gearbox again). Replacing the chain is much simpler than taking that apart so going to try the most simple thing first. I'm going to order new chains for the reel and both drive units and see if that fixes the issue. I'm crossing my fingers and hope that these chains can be ordered from Tri-green instead of having to wait a week for a shipment from an online retailer.

In addition to that @Pete1313 I think I'm dense as hell because but I still don't get how to check the gear case oil and what level to fill it up to. The front roller was on the block and the gearbox was "level" (parallel to the ground). If I open up the bottom right drain, oil would/should run out. Other than the very right side in red would drain out of the drain plug, leaving the entire left-hand side of the unit without any oil if I filled up just enough to where the drain plug would let oil out. The manual states that it takes .4Qt thats a decent amount of oil and that bottom right side in red certainly wouldn't hold .4qt of oil.



Showing chain deflection





Running with the chain on





Running with the chain removed





Reel ran by drill





Run again with the chain on





Gearbox oil level still confused.


----------



## g-man

g-man said:


> Go to this website and download the technical manual. It is the manual the JD techs use and it has a ton of extra info.
> 
> 
> 
> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> I found this website with a lot of the technical manuals for JD mowers in pdf format all in one easy to find table. There is other info in the website like part cross-reference.
> 
> http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual
> 
> 
> 
> PS I had too much coffee today and I can't fall asleep, so I'm catching up in the warm season folder.
Click to expand...

The reel looks good. Your drill test proves it. The drum chains look worst than the reel one. I would change the small sprocket too. www.greenfarmpart.com has free shipping.

But I don't think the chains are the problem. Go to the link above and download the manual. Go to page 105 item called out X. I think it is not engaging correctly and maybe jumping. I would look more into this area.

Or maybe the internal chain in the transfer case needs oil.


----------



## kur1j

@g-man

:shock:  If that is indeed that case it's like a $350 part .

So at this point what would you do? Would you go ahead and replace the drive chains? Simply put some oil in the gear case and see what happens? Go ahead and rip the gearcase apart and look around and see if that is the problem? Will I even be able to pull these bearings off these shafts without special tools?


----------



## g-man

First let see what Pete thinks.

2) I would add oil to the case thru the handle hole. Those handles are held in there by an o ring. Just pull it up. Maybe the noise is just the chain hitting due to lack of oil.

3) I would then open up the case and inspect. Worn chain, gear, sprocket, etc.

4) you could rent the bearing tool for free from a car part store (ie auto zones). But I don't think it could be a bearing.


----------



## Pete1313

kur1j said:


> So at this point what would you do? Would you go ahead and replace the drive chains? Simply put some oil in the gear case and see what happens?


That's what I would do. Replace the 3 chains, lube and adjust them. Change the gear oil and just mow. At this point I would make the decision not to open up the gear box.


----------



## kur1j

@Pete1313 @g-man Well at this point got to give it a shot. I ordered the 3 chains 1 reel drive chain (TCA16596) and two drive chains (TCA16595).

The reel drive chain should be here Thursday. The reel drive chains will be here whenever greenfarmparts decide to ship.

I've also got some of the Hy-Gard oil waiting.

I hope to god this works but I'm skeptical as hell. It started doing it before I did anything to it and just seems to not really change after messing with the chain which would indicate it not being the chain in the first place. But I dunno maybe the initial loose chain was causing it and then tightening the chain exacerbated it. I dunno. I'm just speculating at this point and talking out loud. But we will certainly see in a few days if this is indeed the problem and we can rule out the chain issue.


----------



## g-man

I think you have to try something. I think we are closing in on the source.

This gear case is not really a gear case. It is a chain cover. Since we don't here the noise when there is no load from the reel, something tells me that it has to be something in the case.

One thing that you could try is to remove the drive chains (both) and keep the reel chain (reverse from yesterday).


----------



## g-man

I'm trying to figure this out and it is bugging me. I went thru your videos again using the PC instead of the cellphone. With youtube I was able to slow the speed down to 0.25x. I was able to see something I had not seen before. The engine is shaking with load. It is jerking up and down. So, another idea, what if the engine is not perpendicular to the gear case or has a bad bushing in the supports? or the belt tension is incorrect?

http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMTCU37245_19/OUO1082,0006436_19_20130218.html


----------



## kur1j

@g-man Yeah the engine shakes. The whole frame does basically.

I adjusted the belt tension some a few days ago to try to get rid of the chirping (and at the time thought that was causing the vibration).

what bushing are you referring to?

I can adjust the belt tension again but based on the documentation it's set correctly unless I'm misunderstanding something.


----------



## g-man

Item 28 (I think) - https://www.greenfarmparts.com/articles.asp?ID=287#/John_Deere/220C_Greens_Mower_-PC10367/FRAME%3a_FRAME_%26_REEL/7103670002/10367D241C0508000001

The two pulleys, the engine one and the gear case, should be parallel and in the same plane. I think the motor mounts are used to align it.


----------



## kur1j

@g-man @Pete1313

So...we might have the source of the problem and solution. @g-man I think you got it right. It appears that this is a belt/tensioner issue. You will see it in the video but I read the documentation again about doing a course adjustment on the belts. I had only done a "fine" adjustment. After revisiting the specs in the documentation I adjusted them to as close as I could (the idler/clutch/pully being ~.01 to .113 away from cover bracket) and then estimated the best I could of .4 - .7" between belt and bottom of the clutch. I tried to line up the pullys (sheaves) as best I could with my straight edge. I tightened everything back up, cranked it up and tried it and no really bad vibration with the reel running! The only time it would vibrate is if I pushed further on the reel engagement lever after it was engaged.

So with these findings, this is what I'm planning on doing moving forward.

1. Mow tomorrow with it and see if that is indeed the issue (doesn't return or something silly). Given that this is the solution and I have no problems tomorrow
2. I've already got the chains on order, I'm going to go ahead and replace them
3. Order new belts and replace these. With the adjustments I did they still seem to squeak (but no vibration).
4. Dump the gear case oil and fill the gear case with fresh Hy-Gard. I'm still confused on how to check the level (I guess I'm just really dense), but my plan is to get a container and dump it all out. Then in the documentation, it calls for .4L of oil and just put in .4L of oil.

What do yall think?


----------



## g-man

I'm glad this is working out for you. I think the pulley was not aligned or the extra engagement was pushing it off alignment and was placing a side load (like pulling from the side). The motor then wants to go to that side and it cant because it is bolted. See page 6 of this pdf I found online (https://www.plantservices.com/assets/wp_downloads/pdf/111025-Ludeca-guide-pulley-alignment.pdf) It is a fairly common cause of premature failure in motors (HVAC fans). It causes the bearings to also fail prematurely.

1) yes mow
2) yes change the chains. Clean up most of the old grease to remove the dirt. That also causes premature wear. 
3) If the belt is not cracked, there is not need to change them, but it wont hurt either.
4) I would empty it out. Then add 0.4L. Mow with it. Then empty it out again and add 0.4L again.. I dont think mine was ever changed and it had a metallic shine to it from all the wear. I they this flush method to ensure I got most of the old stuff out.

In the video you asked about the bail system. What you noticed is normal because there is no backpressure in the level from the pulley running. Once you try this with the pulley running, it disengages. The idea in the JD controls (i dont loev them) is that 1) bail has to be engaged to engage the drive (make sense). 2) if you push the drive all the way forward then it will lock it engaged (great for long distance). 3) to disengage the drive, you need to disengage the bail to release the lock (the part I dont like). I think on the Toro, just pulling back on the drive disengages it. I've been using mine more and more by keeping the drive engaged manually (not letting it lock) so I could control the start and stop better. The position of the level makes it awkward to do this.


----------



## kur1j

@g-man

Well the thing with this is that you can't really get it out of alignment in the since that sheaves arent parallel to each other. The motor is on a set of tracks essentially so you can't move it closer or further away from a particular side. The only thing I noticed is that it can slightly "twist" on you. There is enough play where the motor can sit like / or \ compared to |.

I don't quite understand why it shudders when you press further down on the reel clutch like I was doing in video. I feel that the belts are as straight as I can get them. The belts don't seem to have any cracking but would like to try and get the squeaking and the vibration when you push down on the reel lever.

Thanks for the info. I got to get me a shopping list haha. Need funnel and measuring cups for this oil, my wife won't let me use her good stuff haha.


----------



## g-man

The gear case has the slots for the adjustment to the motor.


----------



## kur1j

@g-man Ahh okay. That makes sense. It looks like the document you linked they are using a laser to do the check. I ended up finding this video 



 and it seems the way I was doing it is about right. I just need to take the cover off so I can see the alignment better.


----------



## g-man

On industrial system (HVAC fan for an entire building), it is better to use the lasers. We also monitor heat with IR cameras and add vibration sensor to monitor the bearings (all this is called Predictive Maintenance).

For our mowers, a straight edge will be fine. Like he said in the video, all 4 corners should touch on the top and bottom. I would also check it after you apply the force to the idle pulley. I think that if too much force is being applied with the pulley, then it could push the transfer case down and get the pulley to be off axis.


----------



## kur1j

@g-man Well the biggest problem is seeing it. There are brackets in the way preventing me from seeing everything.

My plan is to put covers on it put everything back together make sure this is the problem and then after I'm done mowing do a full cleanup and alignment of everything. The grass is already pretty high (4 days with lots of rain) so it needs to be mowed.


----------



## g-man

So? Did it work?


----------



## kur1j

@g-man

Just got in from working in the yard and yup seems to have been the issue. That sound is gone. Actually sounded more smooth than it has since I got it. So that appears to have been the problem.

Granted I'm getting really conflicting indicators that I still don't have the belts adjusted appropriately. On a flat surface while in idle and the unit in neutral it will ever so slightly creep forward. However, when in the grass and after engaging the reel the belts do seem loose as it won't propel itself hardly up the grade around the house (which isn't much). It will just barely crawl. If I push down on the clutch lever to tighten the belts down more it will pick up speed.

But now that the grass is mowed it buys me some time to redo the entire belt maintenance adjustment. I'm going to give it a go at adjusting these belts again and if I can't get it, I'll just order new belts and replace just so I don't have that factor playing into it. The chains, are in the way and the gearbox oil is in the garage and will be changed before next mow.

Thank you so much for all the help!


----------



## Thor865

Anyone here use a grooved front roller vs smooth? I have both but using smooth right now. Just looking for pros/cons


----------



## kur1j

@Thor865

I've got a grooved roller and have no experience with the straight. But from my understanding grooved will let you get a slightly more aggressive cut.

But unless you have extremely flat ground I can't see how you would even be able to tell.


----------



## g-man

Groved allows the head to be closer to the ground. With a smooth one the head could ride on top of the grass. If you have both, go with the groved one, but either one should be fine.


----------



## J_nick

Thor865 said:


> Anyone here use a grooved front roller vs smooth? I have both but using smooth right now. Just looking for pros/cons


After mowing for 2 years with a smooth roller I finally upgraded the 220B to a grooved roller. Much better cut and the grass is more upright than horizontal. It's only been around 4 cuts since I changed but I can easily notice the difference. The actual HOC is now way closer to the bench HOC. The first cut after the change I could tell the mower was taking a much bigger bite into the turf. Normally it's about 3-4 catchers full during a mow but the first mow after the switch was around 7-8. Luckily it was early enough in the season where scalping wasn't an issue.


----------



## Thor865

J_nick said:


> Thor865 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone here use a grooved front roller vs smooth? I have both but using smooth right now. Just looking for pros/cons
> 
> 
> 
> After mowing for 2 years with a smooth roller I finally upgraded the 220B to a grooved roller. Much better cut and the grass is more upright than horizontal. It's only been around 4 cuts since I changed but I can easily notice the difference. The actual HOC is now way closer to the bench HOC. The first cut after the change I could tell the mower was taking a much bigger bite into the turf. Normally it's about 3-4 catchers full during a mow but the first mow after the switch was around 7-8. Luckily it was early enough in the season where scalping wasn't an issue.
Click to expand...

That's great. Did you have any issues with front roller to Bedknife parallelness after taking off eccentric and did you just follow manual for removal and reinstall


----------



## J_nick

@Thor865 the 220B isn't that complicated. No Eccentric's to worry about just a straight replacement of the solid roller


----------



## Thor865

J_nick said:


> @Thor865 the 220B isn't that complicated. No Eccentric's to worry about just a straight replacement of the solid roller


Oh I guess I fancy then lol. I also noticed reviewing the manual and hoc range I am on setting 6 on front roller bracket and with that hoc range of .6-1.18 with GTC I am below that with my current bench hoc of .5

With that would it cause too much Bedknife angle and therefore create issues with quality of cut ?


----------



## J_nick

Thor865 said:


> J_nick said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thor865 the 220B isn't that complicated. No Eccentric's to worry about just a straight replacement of the solid roller
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I guess I fancy then lol. I also noticed reviewing the manual and hoc range I am on setting 6 on front roller bracket and with that hoc range of .6-1.18 with GTC I am below that with my current bench hoc of .5
> 
> With that would it cause too much Bedknife angle and therefore create issues with quality of cut ?
Click to expand...

Without seeing the bed knife attitude in person it's hard to say but if your at 6 up front and your bench is at .5" then I would assume your attitude is flat or negative. It would probably be better to go to setting 5 up front then adjust the back to get you to .5" again.


----------



## Thor865

J_nick said:


> Thor865 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J_nick said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thor865 the 220B isn't that complicated. No Eccentric's to worry about just a straight replacement of the solid roller
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I guess I fancy then lol. I also noticed reviewing the manual and hoc range I am on setting 6 on front roller bracket and with that hoc range of .6-1.18 with GTC I am below that with my current bench hoc of .5
> 
> With that would it cause too much Bedknife angle and therefore create issues with quality of cut ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Without seeing the bed knife attitude in person it's hard to say but if your at 6 up front and your bench is at .5" then I would assume your attitude is flat or negative. It would probably be better to go to setting 5 up front then adjust the back to get you to .5" again.
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm doing that now and switching to my grooved roller. Should be cutting better after this for sure!


----------



## FRD135i

Well, going to need help with this one


I'm guessing part #MT4846? @J_nick


----------



## MasterMech

AMT2867 & ET17533 would be my picks for OEM parts. (9-Blade and std knife) Unless your HoC is under .500 on a consistent basis. Then I'd probably go to a thinner knife.

JD Doesn't offer a heavy section knife and 7-blade reel for the 220B?


----------



## g-man

According to this table from JD, the hi-cut fairway fits the 220B (ET17767). http://www.deere.com/en_US/docs/pdfs/parts/golf/bedknife_compatibility_chart.pdf

The AMT2903 is the 7 blade reel ($275 at greenfarmparts). I would replace the reel bearings too and get new bedknife screws.


----------



## Pete1313

g-man said:


> The AMT2903 is the 7 blade reel ($275 at greenfarmparts). I would replace the reel bearings too and get new bedknife screws.


AMT2903 is a 26" reel and will only fit the 260B/C/SL.

AMT2867 is the 9-blade like MasterMech mentioned, and is the least number of blades you can get on the 220B/C/SL.


----------



## g-man

@Pete1313 You are right, I must have clicked the wrong part diagram.


----------



## FRD135i

Haha ummmmm, is anyone as confused as I am? So I should go with AMT2867 & ET17533, correct? And obviously screws .........and bearings possibly?

And I seem to be having trouble pulling those up on Greene parts direct


----------



## kur1j

@FRD135i That sucks! Same exact thing happened to me. If the reel did t bend you might be able to get away with filing down a few of the blades that got twisted up and just replacing the bedknife.

AMT2867 is the 9 blade 22" reel. But I think they are recommending you to get the ET17767 bedknife it's a hi-cut fairway bedknife. I think it's slightly thicker than the stock standard bedknife.


----------



## FRD135i

kur1j said:


> @FRD135i That sucks! Same exact thing happened to me. If the reel did t bend you might be able to get away with filing down a few of the blades that got twisted up and just replacing the bedknife.
> 
> AMT2867 is the 9 blade 22" reel. But I think they are recommending you to get the ET17767 bedknife it's a hi-cut fairway bedknife. I think it's slightly thicker than the stock standard bedknife.


It's saying that the et17767 fits the 220e on green farm parts. Will that fit my 220b?


----------



## kur1j

@FRD135i https://www.deere.com/en_US/parts/parts_by_industry/golf/bed_knives/bedknives.page

This shows straight from JD that it fits 220A/B/C/SL/QA5 greens mowers.


----------



## Pete1313

Here is the ET17767 hi-cut fairway knife on a 220SL with a new reel. It will work and look the same on the 220B.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1500&start=20#p28741


----------



## J_nick

@FRD135i hey man sorry I never got the notification from this, it looks like these guys got you taken care of. Next bedknife I order will be the ET11066 with Hardened Insert. I have the High cut fairway on there now and the minimum HOC JD says is .299". I scalped this year at .250" so idk if the front roller was floating for that to be possible. At .250" I did get high centered on the bedknife a few times in parts of the lawn that have some undulations.


----------



## FRD135i

@MasterMech @g-man @Pete1313 @kur1j @J_nick

Thanks for all the info, just put my order in for the ET17767 bedknife and srews. Everyone here is awesome with how y'all help people out.


----------



## MasterMech

FRD135i said:


> @MasterMech @g-man @Pete1313 @kur1j @J_nick
> 
> Thanks for all the info, just put my order in for the ET17767 bedknife and srews. Everyone here is awesome with how y'all help people out.


Did you get a reel as well? The reel in your photo is trashed unfortunately.

Edit: ok, maybe not trashed, but quite a few of those blades are bent. Are you going to try and straighten them out? Look carefully for broken welds.


----------



## FRD135i

MasterMech said:


> FRD135i said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MasterMech @g-man @Pete1313 @kur1j @J_nick
> 
> Thanks for all the info, just put my order in for the ET17767 bedknife and srews. Everyone here is awesome with how y'all help people out.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you get a reel as well? The reel in your photo is trashed unfortunately.
> 
> Edit: ok, maybe not trashed, but quite a few of those blades are bent. Are you going to try and straighten them out? Look carefully for broken welds.
Click to expand...

Yes, I am going to try my best to get a torch on it to make it through this season. Hopefully I can limp through this one. Might do an overhaul over the winter


----------



## FRD135i

Wow! What a difference! 

The one that was on there feels like tin.

Thanks @Redtenchu , just had to watch the 220b vid to remember what to do. Thanks for having that little gem.


----------



## Redtenchu

Glad it helped @FRD135i


----------



## wartee

Drive belts -
The JD OE belts are quite pricey. Even R&R belts are (IMO) ridiculously priced. So I've been working on a solution. The OE parts are listed as a matched set, which means the tolerance between the two is lower than just picking a random pair.

A couple of months ago I ordered the cheapest belts I could find on eBay; paid about $6 shipped for two. These were made in India I think, and there was no pretense that they were matched. They also weren't Kevlar wrapped. I installed them and within 5 minutes of use one of them snapped. So it would need to be something a little better.

I found on Rock Auto, of all places, some Gates 6823 belts, which ARE Kevlar wrapped, in the size 1/2x23". These were close outs, and I got a pair for $10 shipped. Not bad. 


They even looked like OE, with green Kevlar wrap. Now Gates belts are good quality, and they have match numbers printed on them. If 2 belts have the same match numbers, they are considered a matched pair. Unfortunately, these belts had different match numbers. But I thought, WTH, I'll give it a shot.



(By the way, changing the belts on a 220 drives me nuts. Always takes much longer than I expect)

Anyway, I fired up the mower with this "unmatched" set and what do you know, it seemed to work just fine! Both belts engaged evenly, with no apparent problems. Now, I suspect the Gates 6823 might be a little bigger than the OE - I would be tempted to try a 6822 next time. And, if I could find a local supplier I would try to find a pair with the same match numbers.

So, one mow down with 6823 Kevlar wrapped belts. If these last I can't see buying OE JD or R&R belts anymore.


----------



## FRD135i

wartee said:


> Drive belts -
> The JD OE belts are quite pricey. Even R&R belts are (IMO) ridiculously priced. So I've been working on a solution. The OE parts are listed as a matched set, which means the tolerance between the two is lower than just picking a random pair.
> 
> A couple of months ago I ordered the cheapest belts I could find on eBay; paid about $6 shipped for two. These were made in India I think, and there was no pretense that they were matched. They also weren't Kevlar wrapped. I installed them and within 5 minutes of use one of them snapped. So it would need to be something a little better.
> 
> I found on Rock Auto, of all places, some Gates 6823 belts, which ARE Kevlar wrapped, in the size 1/2x23". These were close outs, and I got a pair for $10 shipped. Not bad.
> 
> 
> They even looked like OE, with green Kevlar wrap. Now Gates belts are good quality, and they have match numbers printed on them. If 2 belts have the same match numbers, they are considered a matched pair. Unfortunately, these belts had different match numbers. But I thought, WTH, I'll give it a shot.
> 
> 
> 
> (By the way, changing the belts on a 220 drives me nuts. Always takes much longer than I expect)
> 
> Anyway, I fired up the mower with this "unmatched" set and what do you know, it seemed to work just fine! Both belts engaged evenly, with no apparent problems. Now, I suspect the Gates 6823 might be a little bigger than the OE - I would be tempted to try a 6822 next time. And, if I could find a local supplier I would try to find a pair with the same match numbers.
> 
> So, one mow down with 6823 Kevlar wrapped belts. If these last I can't see buying OE JD or R&R belts anymore.


Keep us posted, sounds like a good option.


----------



## MasterMech

wartee said:


> Drive belts -
> The JD OE belts are quite pricey. Even R&R belts are (IMO) ridiculously priced. So I've been working on a solution. The OE parts are listed as a matched set, which means the tolerance between the two is lower than just picking a random pair.
> 
> A couple of months ago I ordered the cheapest belts I could find on eBay; paid about $6 shipped for two. These were made in India I think, and there was no pretense that they were matched. They also weren't Kevlar wrapped. I installed them and within 5 minutes of use one of them snapped. So it would need to be something a little better.
> 
> I found on Rock Auto, of all places, some Gates 6823 belts, which ARE Kevlar wrapped, in the size 1/2x23". These were close outs, and I got a pair for $10 shipped. Not bad.
> 
> 
> They even looked like OE, with green Kevlar wrap. Now Gates belts are good quality, and they have match numbers printed on them. If 2 belts have the same match numbers, they are considered a matched pair. Unfortunately, these belts had different match numbers. But I thought, WTH, I'll give it a shot.
> 
> 
> 
> (By the way, changing the belts on a 220 drives me nuts. Always takes much longer than I expect)
> 
> Anyway, I fired up the mower with this "unmatched" set and what do you know, it seemed to work just fine! Both belts engaged evenly, with no apparent problems. Now, I suspect the Gates 6823 might be a little bigger than the OE - I would be tempted to try a 6822 next time. And, if I could find a local supplier I would try to find a pair with the same match numbers.
> 
> So, one mow down with 6823 Kevlar wrapped belts. If these last I can't see buying OE JD or R&R belts anymore.


Not too difficult of a mission when you are only shopping for a matched pair. You can do fairly well buying individual belts and then matching up a pair and saving the rejects for possible future matches.

Little different story when you need a matched set of 4 or more. (Typical app for me at work)I will say that our application (mowers) is likely less than critical. And belts that are close but perhaps not matched, will stretch/wear to each other if they are indeed "close enough". But I've run far more critical apps and seen first-hand why the right parts are cheaper, even at OEM prices.

FWIW: I've used Deere belts in industrial applications.... why? Because Deere makes some of the best belts for high-load, high heat applications, has tight quality control (yes, they make their own belts.) and has an excellent cross-reference for all of their belts by size. (Size and shape to Deere part #)


----------



## kur1j

@MasterMech Very interesting to know thst JD makes their own belts. I certainly would have figured it was a outsourced part to a large supplier of belts.
Someone who specializes in it. Kind of like when auto manufacturers say "use our oil it's the best", when in reality it's more than likely a relabeled product.

I have adjusted the belts all over the place on my 220c but it wasn't obvious to me on how to replace them. Are they hard to replace? Time consuming?


----------



## MasterMech

Sorry, I have no first hand exp with the 220c. Perhaps @Pete1313 can help.

At one time, Deere made their own hardware too. Pretty sure they don't anymore, but it's not too hard to find bolts with JD stamped on the head.

Lots of manufacturers keep some common items in-house for quality and design purposes. Many of the premium mower manufacturers still make their own blades. And more often than not, the aftermarket sells a better blade than the OEM part on many of the "economy" brands.

Stihl, and now Husqvarna make their own saw chain. Every other brand uses Oregon or some of the really cheap stuff is Tri-Link.

Stihl is the only OEM that I know of that makes their own trimmer line.

Is it Festool or Metabo that makes their own electric motors for their tools?

Sorry to get off topic....


----------



## kur1j

@MasterMech That's interesting to know. When I'm looking for replacement parts I'm always torn on paying extra for OEM. Most of the annoyances I have is a non-oem part doesn't "exactly" fit. Which is understandable. Just a crap shoot half the time.


----------



## FRD135i

Dumb question, but where can I find the year of 220B that I have. I'm sure its right in front of me.......... somewhere.......


----------



## Pete1313

kur1j said:


> I have adjusted the belts all over the place on my 220c but it wasn't obvious to me on how to replace them. Are they hard to replace? Time consuming?





MasterMech said:


> Sorry, I have no first hand exp with the 220c. Perhaps Pete1313 can help.


They are easy to replace. It does involve loosening the engine mounting bolts and sliding the engine to get them out.

Section 50 - Service Belts
http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMTCU37245_19/?tM=



FRD135i said:


> Dumb question, but where can I find the year of 220B that I have. I'm sure its right in front of me.......... somewhere.......


You can figure out the year from your serial number. Lmk if this helps.


----------



## kur1j

@Pete1313 Thanks pete!


----------



## Pete1313

kur1j said:


> Pete1313 Thanks pete!


 :thumbup:


----------



## MasterMech

kur1j said:


> @MasterMech That's interesting to know. When I'm looking for replacement parts I'm always torn on paying extra for OEM. Most of the annoyances I have is a non-oem part doesn't "exactly" fit. Which is understandable. Just a crap shoot half the time.


I've been around the spare parts issue a awhile. I've been behind the dealership parts counter, I'm in front of it every so often these days. The parts guys look at me funny because I can tell them catalog numbers and serial breaks without seeing their screen. :lol: I've bought/sold plenty of aftermarket parts too. Both good and not so good quality. The problem with a lot of the aftermarket parts for OPE is the quality just isn't consistent. You might get something phenomenal for $10. Or it might be "a real pisser-offer" and cause you to spend $60 at the dealership parts counter.

If the OEM makes it in house - it's probably worth the $$. If it's sold by a reputable aftermarket parts distributor like Stens, Oregon, or Rotary, it probably is worth what you paid for it. If it's sold on eBay or Alibaba, it's kinda like buying a lottery ticket. There's always a chance it'll make you really happy but it's far more likely to disappoint quickly with long term regret to follow. 🤷🏼‍♂️


----------



## kur1j

@MasterMech Yup, my experience with just about anything I buy. I've got 6ksqft lawn the Stihl guy looked at me like an idiot when I told him that when i said i wanted a stihl edger and the blower. He's like why? I'm like because I won't be replacing it in 2 years.

I might not always get the absolute top end equipment when I buy something but I can appreciate good well made tools and equipment and i'm okay paying for it.


----------



## brettgoodyear

So I just purchased 2 John Deere 180b mowers from the weeks auction is there anything I need to be on the look out for as I go through them once I get them? These will be my first venture into the reel mower world. Thanks for the help!


----------



## Flynt2799

brettgoodyear said:


> So I just purchased 2 John Deere 180b mowers from the weeks auction is there anything I need to be on the look out for as I go through them once I get them? These will be my first venture into the reel mower world. Thanks for the help!


Following, as I did the same.


----------



## Ral1121

Flynt2799 said:


> brettgoodyear said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I just purchased 2 John Deere 180b mowers from the weeks auction is there anything I need to be on the look out for as I go through them once I get them? These will be my first venture into the reel mower world. Thanks for the help!
> 
> 
> 
> Following, as I did the same.
Click to expand...

Y'all going to fix them up and sell one or keep the second as a backup?


----------



## Flynt2799

No idea yet. Guess it just depends on the condition and work that would be needed to bring them up to par. I got a 180B and a 180C, so see which one I like better. Or maybe just have a backyard reel and front yard reel lol


----------



## Ral1121

@Flynt2799 
Now that's something I have not thought about. I cut my front and back at different heights so that means I need a second mower so I do not have to continue to change the height.


----------



## brettgoodyear

I had to buy 2 to bribe my buddy to pick it up and ship it to me haha.


----------



## Flynt2799

@brettgoodyear tell him he's more than welcome to ship mine as well :lol:


----------



## brettgoodyear

@Flynt2799 It may cost you a mower haha


----------



## Flynt2799

brettgoodyear said:


> It may cost you a mower haha


 :? Shoot with these shipping prices I keep getting I might just drive myself lol. 13hrs one way.......


----------



## Ral1121

@Flynt2799 I don't know what kind of quotes you are getting but @Killbuzz used a guy from uship and payed somewhere around 300 I believe. This was to San Antonio. Might want to pm him for the guys info. He was also the one that said shipping more then one was not that much more I believe.


----------



## Thor865

Can someone point me in right direction for correct grease gun, grease, and greasing points for my 220E? Like where to buy and what to buy ?


----------



## kur1j

For my 220c I've got this gun. GreaseTek Premium Pistol Grip Grease Gun with 18" Hose and Extension Pipe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019P1MRKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v5bnBbAH2KDRH

and this grease.

Lucas Oil 10301 Heavy Duty Grease, 14.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IG20RW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p6bnBbKVEDBX7

I think the manual tells you what grease to use though.


----------



## g-man

Section 40 of the manual has all the types/grease points. You need two different type of grease (two grease guns). Both of the JD greases are polyurea greases. Polyureas are great greases but they do not play nice with other greases, so dont try to swap.

http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMTCU39939_19/?tM=









from - https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1865/grease-compatibility


----------



## kur1j

I'm only seeing and it says you can use either one.

John Deere Special Purpose Golf and Turf Cutting Unit Grease
John Deere Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease

Why would you need two grease guns?


----------



## Pete1313

The reel bearings on the 220E (QA5 cutting head) take NLGI 0 grease, which is the golf and turf cutting unit grease. The rest of the grease points on the machine use NLGI 2 grease


----------



## kur1j

@Pete1313 Ahhh. The 220C doesn't call for that and just asks for NLGI 2 grease. That damn NLGI 0 (which I think is the same grade you use in the Landscape blade) seems to be expensive and hard to find for whatever reason.


----------



## Pete1313

kur1j said:


> Pete1313 Ahhh. The 220C doesn't call for that and just asks for NLGI 2 grease. That damn NLGI 0 (which I think is the same grade you use in the Landscape blade) seems to be expensive and hard to find for whatever reason.


https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Golf-and-Turf-Cutting-Unit-Gun-Grease-TY25083.html

https://www.greenfarmparts.com/John-Deere-Grease-TY25083-p/ty25083.htm


----------



## kur1j

@Pete1313 Well I guess I was wrong haha. I was just searching for NLGI 0 and was finding stuff like this. https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Pressure-Lithium-Grease-NLGI/dp/B06XYQXVM4 haha


----------



## Thor865

New questions regarding quality of cut

Had some problems recently with my 220E cutting wavy almost ribbed across entire yard. Double or triple cut doesn't fix it. Just makes it wavy in a different direction (driving me crazy)

Things I've done to resolve this

- backlapped, cutting cleanly across Bedknife
- parallel front and rear roller on flat surface to mitigate rocking and distribute weight as evenly as possible 
- checked hoc difference and set to .6 hoc with accu gauge

Currently front roller is setup on setting 5 with GTC

After talking to JD tech in my area he suggested that maybe since I switched to the fairway hi cut thicker Bedknife that being on 5 for front roller setting has the Bedknife at a negative to flat angle and he suggested lowering front roller to 3 and the setting hoc to .6 which will give the Bedknife a more aggressive angle and not allow it drag the turf.

Any insight into anyone else who has had a similar issue and what you've done to resolve would be appreciated.


----------



## g-man

Attached is the manual for the front roller setup relative to the HOC.



5 is the correct setting and you could go to 4. 3 will be too far back (aggressive) for that HOC. I would try 4.

If you slow down do you see the waves?
If you pull up in the bar (so you are pushing the head down), do you see the waves? 
Waves with groomer down or up? 
Have you check the clip rate to the hoc for your reel # blades? It should be at position 4 for the 7 blade and position 5 for the 11 blade.


----------



## Thor865

g-man said:


> Attached is the manual for the front roller setup relative to the HOC.
> 
> 
> 
> 5 is the correct setting and you could go to 4. 3 will be too far back (aggressive) for that HOC. I would try 4.
> 
> If you slow down do you see the waves?
> If you pull up in the bar (so you are pushing the head down), do you see the waves?
> Waves with groomer down or up?
> Have you check the clip rate to the hoc for your reel # blades? It should be at position 4 for the 7 blade and position 5 for the 11 blade.


Slowing down doesn't change quality of cut 
Neither does pulling up (I've always done that) 
Groomer has been up and down both on different mow days with no noticeable change 
Foc is set to 5 (have 11 blade reel)

The JD guy was suggesting that maybe what we are seeing in the manual for front roller settings are not related to qa5 with the thicker Bedknife ?


----------



## DTCC_Turf

If you're getting ripples when you mow, you may just need a good verticut to thin the turf a little. 11 blades just also might be too many for your height of cut unless you are mowing below .375 or so.


----------



## Flynt2799

So I finally got the two mowers I purchased through weeks auction and have started working on both. I was going through with a grease gun last night hitting all the spots when I noticed I was going through grease like crazy, like 1 tube per mower....Said to myself this cant be right, took off the side covers and noticed that half of the tube was sitting on top of the chain :shock: . Cleaned that off and put the covers back on. but my question is how do you know when to fill these ports or how much to put in. I was always taught growing up that you fill em up till you see grease coming out. When greasing the reel I noticed that it literally moved the reel after a few pumps so I stopped, my fear is that I may have blown a seal or something. What do you guys do?


----------



## Thor865

DTCC_Turf said:


> If you're getting ripples when you mow, you may just need a good verticut to thin the turf a little. 11 blades just also might be too many for your height of cut unless you are mowing below .375 or so.


This may prove to be difficult since I don't own a verticutter at the moment.


----------



## Amaxwell5

@Pete1313 I need some help on which parts to order for my 220 sl. I am confident I can do the part swapping on my own as I have always worked on my own stuff ( balers,tractors vehicles, etc) I just need to know which part numbers to order for the bearing replacements. I found the correct reel and bed knife but I am having trouble finding the bearings and such. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## g-man

Search in www.greenfarmparts.com they have the full schematic and free shipping and these parts are very close in price to rr.


----------



## Amaxwell5

I got the parts ordered. Thanks.


----------



## DTCC_Turf

> This may prove to be difficult since I don't own a verticutter at the moment.


Is this what the waves look like?

This is zoysia mowed at .625" with 7 bladed reels.


----------



## Thor865

DTCC_Turf said:


> This may prove to be difficult since I don't own a verticutter at the moment.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this what the waves look like?
> 
> This is zoysia mowed at .625" with 7 bladed reels.
Click to expand...

Quite a bit more severe. I am going to re adjust the mower today and work with it and I'll update with pictures if it happens again or if it's fixed.


----------



## Don_Bass

Wats Up Guys? I Noticed On My JD180B The Other Day When I Engauge The Clutch On The Lever, The Mower Has A Hard Time Moving Forward Only When The Reel Is Engauged. I Have To Hold The Clutch Lever Down In Order For The Mower To Move & After Awhile It Starts Working Fine. Has Anyone Ran Into This Issue Before.? Any Help/Tips Would Be Appreciated Thanks Guys!.


----------



## DTCC_Turf

Don_Bass said:


> Wats Up Guys? I Noticed On My JD180B The Other Day When I Engauge The Clutch On The Lever, The Mower Has A Hard Time Moving Forward Only When The Reel Is Engauged. I Have To Hold The Clutch Lever Down In Order For The Mower To Move & After Awhile It Starts Working Fine. Has Anyone Ran Into This Issue Before.? Any Help/Tips Would Be Appreciated Thanks Guys!.


what comes to mind first is that the reel-to-bedknife adjustment is too tight. I'd start there.


----------



## Don_Bass

DTCC_Turf said:


> Don_Bass said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wats Up Guys? I Noticed On My JD180B The Other Day When I Engauge The Clutch On The Lever, The Mower Has A Hard Time Moving Forward Only When The Reel Is Engauged. I Have To Hold The Clutch Lever Down In Order For The Mower To Move & After Awhile It Starts Working Fine. Has Anyone Ran Into This Issue Before.? Any Help/Tips Would Be Appreciated Thanks Guys!.
> 
> 
> 
> what comes to mind first is that the reel-to-bedknife adjustment is too tight. I'd start there.
Click to expand...

Cool Man Thanks! I'll Try That Out See What Happens 👍


----------



## kur1j

Belts too loose, reel to bedknife clearance is too tight.


----------



## Flynt2799

Having a couple issues with my 180C.

1)the engine runs but just sounds off. Almost like you hear a "blub" sound every now and then. I have changed all fluids, spark plug as well as air filter. Cleaned engine with sea foam but still can't figure it out.

2) when i engage the reel the reel appears to have a wobble to it.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Amaxwell5

Flynt2799 said:


> Having a couple issues with my 180C.
> 
> 1)the engine runs but just sounds off. Almost like you hear a "blub" sound every now and then. I have changed all fluids, spark plug as well as air filter. Cleaned engine with sea foam but still can't figure it out.
> 
> 2) when i engage the reel the reel appears to have a wobble to it.
> 
> Any insight would be greatly appreciated.


As far as the engine sounding a bit off, it could just be the main jet in the carburetor. I cleaned mine on my 220sl and it made a huge difference. I had tried the sea foam before that and it helped but still had idle problems.

To clean the jet,
1- shut off the gas valve. 
2- there are 2 screws on the carb bowl. One is a drain for the bowl. The other holds the bowl on the carb. Drain and take off bowl. If you don't drain it, it's no big deal, it just keeps a little more gas off your hands. 
3-the screws that held the bowl on screws into the housing of the main jet. You will need a flat screwdriver thin enough to fit into the jet housing. Take the jet out. It's a small brass piece. 
4 -there is a tiny hole in the jet, use whatever you have to pic at it and make sure there is no debris. Do not damage the jet or make the hole larger. Usually the best thing is a torch tip cleaner. 
5 reassemble. Turn on gas. Go mow.

For the wobbling reel, my best guess is maybe a bad bearing??? Or something is out of whack on the adjustments, have you checked bedknife clearance and HOC on bother sides?


----------



## Amaxwell5

https://youtu.be/Xulm7W61bJ4


----------



## Flynt2799

Thanks @Amaxwell5 . I will tackle the carb tomorrow. I'm half tempted to just order a new reel/bedknife and bearings and call it good. I cut with it today and it cuts great, but I can definitely see something going on with the reel.


----------



## Don_Bass

kur1j said:


> Belts too loose, reel to bedknife clearance is too tight.


Adjusted the reel to bedknife & no help


----------



## Flynt2799

Amaxwell5 said:


>


Carb didn't appear to be dirty but followed the directions in the video and seemed to fix the problem. Thanks!

@Don_Bass have you tried freezing the reel bearings?


----------



## g-man

@Don_Bass have you try adjusting the travel of the clutch? It might not have enough for the belt not to slip.


----------



## Flynt2799

So I think I was incorrect on my reel issue. The reel does have some play in it from side to side when I grab ahold of it firmly. Trying to find the correct parts to order to correct this. I'm guessing it's the reel bearing but can't tell which part that would be on the diagram.


----------



## Ral1121

@Flynt2799

I can't help you with the part numbers for the bearings but you will want to order a new bedknife as the play in the reel will have caused un even wear on it. You will also want to order new bedknife screws as well and get a grinding on your reel to square everything up.


----------



## Don_Bass

g-man said:


> @Don_Bass have you try adjusting the travel of the clutch? It might not have enough for the belt not to slip.


How Do I Do That?


----------



## g-man

This is the manual for the 180b http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMMT7384_K5/Output/Index.html?tM=HO

Go to Service Belts - Drive Belt Tension Check and Adjustment section.


----------



## Fishnugget

Don_Bass said:


> Wats Up Guys? I Noticed On My JD180B The Other Day When I Engauge The Clutch On The Lever, The Mower Has A Hard Time Moving Forward Only When The Reel Is Engauged. I Have To Hold The Clutch Lever Down In Order For The Mower To Move & After Awhile It Starts Working Fine. Has Anyone Ran Into This Issue Before.? Any Help/Tips Would Be Appreciated Thanks Guys!.


I am having the same problem. But I have a 220SL. I haven't looked into it but I would think its the clutch lever that needs some adjusting or tightening. I am guessing it became loose from always engaging/disengaging the clutch. What do the experts think?


----------



## J_nick

@wartee how have the 6823 belts been working?

Last year I bought a set of belts from JD to have for back up. A couple weeks ago I broke one of the originals so I decided to change them out. I don't know if they sold me the wrong ones or what but it was terrible, mower was jerky and I could tell the belts were slipping. They looked like they were 1/8" too wide and wouldn't fit in the pulley all the way. I ended up taking them off and I have been running on the single belt. Would you still go with the 6823 or go with the 6822?


----------



## wartee

Hi @J_nick 
Yes, they are still performing fine, no apparent wear. Next time I'd probably get a pair of both 6823 and 6822. I know the 6823 was a bit bigger than OE, but I'm just not sure if the 6822 would be too small. Bottom line is I know the 6823 will work, but I'd rather use the smaller size if it will still work so it leaves more room to adjust if they stretch over time. Don't know if that helps, but at least these things are much less expensive than JD.

Do spend some time getting the pulleys lined up with a straightedge, and note that the "main" adjustment for the belts is to loosen the engine bolts and slide it. It's not rocket surgery but it is kind of fussy.


----------



## J_nick

wartee said:


> Hi @J_nick
> Yes, they are still performing fine, no apparent wear. Next time I'd probably get a pair of both 6823 and 6822. I know the 6823 was a bit bigger than OE, but I'm just not sure if the 6822 would be too small. Bottom line is I know the 6823 will work, but I'd rather use the smaller size if it will still work so it leaves more room to adjust if they stretch over time. Don't know if that helps, but at least these things are much less expensive than JD.
> 
> Do spend some time getting the pulleys lined up with a straightedge, and note that the "main" adjustment for the belts is to loosen the engine bolts and slide it. It's not rocket surgery but it is kind of fussy.


10-4 thanks. I'll get both sizes from rockauto and report back if the 22" ones fit my 220B


----------



## Thor865

Is it possible to remove axels? Saw where others did on their toro gm's but didn't know if it was that way for JD. I Have 220E


----------



## g-man

Only with a saw. :-(


----------



## Amaxwell5

Thor865 said:


> Is it possible to remove axels? Saw where others did on their toro gm's but didn't know if it was that way for JD. I Have 220E


I have a detachable axle setup in the works. As soon as I can finish the machining I'll post it. It should be cheap and very handy.


----------



## Jacob_S

I thought about cutting my axles off, then realized they are a good visual aid to keep me far enough away from things helping me protect the electric drive motor for the reel. those of us with the e-cut can only get so close to things due to that motor so the axles really aren't much of an issue, this is why I want power rotary scissors to clean up that strip the mower can't get to.


----------



## Flynt2799

Has anybody disassembled the reel assembly before. I am trying to replace the seals and can't seem to get the bearing cup out. It's the one circled in the pic (Q).


----------



## Pete1313

Press it out along with the inner seal.. or you can find the perfect size socket like I did and tap it out.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1500#p27667


----------



## Flynt2799

@Pete1313 genius!!! I tried using the seal but just ended up tearing the seal out, the socket trick is gold!


----------



## g-man

If you don't have the right socket, most auto parts(o rielly) rent you tools for free. A brake hub bearing removal tool should do the trick too.


----------



## Flynt2799

Ya tried the socket trick with no luck, all my sockets were either to big or to small. Gonna have to try out a parts store and see if they have a tool. It's just the one that is stuck. Gonna be interesting trying to get the new ones in to.


----------



## g-man

Take the bearing with you. That way you could remove and return the tool in one trip.


----------



## Don_Bass

Just ding one of my reel blades  anyone know where to get a blade for a JD180B


----------



## Ral1121

Rrproducts


----------



## MasterMech

Don_Bass said:


> Just ding one of my reel blades  anyone know where to get a blade for a JD180B


Define "ding".....

Did your destroy the reel? Bend a single blade? Photos help!


----------



## Don_Bass

MasterMech said:


> Don_Bass said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just ding one of my reel blades  anyone know where to get a blade for a JD180B
> 
> 
> 
> Define "ding".....
> 
> Did your destroy the reel? Bend a single blade? Photos help!
Click to expand...


----------



## Don_Bass

I tried my best to straighten out with some visegrips as u can tell


----------



## Ral1121

You can take an angle grinder to it for the time being so you can still use it until you are able to replace the reel and bearings.


----------



## Don_Bass

Ral1121 said:


> You can take an angle grinder to it for the time being so you can still us it until you are able to replace the reel and bearings.


I see sweet will it still cut good?


----------



## MasterMech

Don_Bass said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don_Bass said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just ding one of my reel blades  anyone know where to get a blade for a JD180B
> 
> 
> 
> Define "ding".....
> 
> Did your destroy the reel? Bend a single blade? Photos help!
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Place a block of wood behind that blade and against your old bedknife. You should be able to tap that blade back into roughly its old shape. Your bedknife looks bent upwards slightly on that side so it likely needs to be replaced. Once you replace the bedknife, you can grind the bent reel blade back far enough so that it doesn't hit the new knife. It won't cut grass with that blade along that 2" section or so, but I doubt you'll be able to tell.


----------



## Flynt2799

I was finally able to remove the bearing from the housing. Had to rent a tool from autozone, and even with the tool it barely came out. Question now is weather or not the housing is still good to use. Took a beating during the process. All steps are still in place though, just doesn't look the prettiest.


----------



## Cheesetoast

Error code 1-8 indicates I have an alternator problem on my 220e. I adjusted the reel to knife clearance, and the reel spins easily. 
Has anyone experienced this before? Any advice would be beneficial.


----------



## g-man

First time using the 220E?

Turn the reel off at the switch; wait ~3 sec, turn it on, this resets the system. Ensure your engine has good rpm and slowly engage the drive to get the reel going and pay attention to the engine. If it slows down too much, the controller stops the reel to protect it. I set my idle a bit higher so prevent it from doing this. Always feather the drive slowly to get the mower moving (break the inertia).

It is a good thing they did this, but it could be a pain when there is some mulch in the grass. A mulch piece breaks with the reel without any damage, but you dont notice the system stopped the reel until you mowed a whole strip.


----------



## Cheesetoast

@g-man 
Yep, my first time. Won it at the last auction. Did as you said and gave it full throttle while resetting the PTO switch. As I slowly squeeze the operation presence bar, I listened to the engine. Sounds like the engine is fine. Any other suggestions?


----------



## g-man

Do these steps

1) ensure it the switch is set to mow and not backslap
2) turn on the engine with PTO switch off.
3) look at the led light it should be on and then turn off (i think, I'm in Florida and not in front of mine)
4) take brake off (the one on the left)
5) turn PTO switch on (check for led light to be off)
6) squeeze the presence bar and hold
7) slowing feather the drive (the one on the right) for the reel to turn on. It will only turn on when the drive level is engage and turns off when the presence or drive level are disenaged. You could till the mower back to see the reel moving or ask someone to see for you or place a mirror.
8) if it doesn't turn, repeat all the steps but pay attention to the led light once you engage the drive.

Report back what you see.


----------



## Cheesetoast

@g-man 
Followed the instructions to the letter, but the LED light continues to blink 1-8, and the reel doesn't spin. It has to be the alternator or the brushless motor on the head. Any advise?


----------



## g-man

When is the light turning on? when you turn on the PTO switch? when you power on the machine? when feather the drive?


----------



## Cheesetoast

The light comes on after I start the engine


----------



## g-man

So keep the PTO switch off. Try to start at a higher rpm. And see if you could get the light to go off.

Check the belt from the engine to the alternator to make sure it is not slipping. If the light is on there must be something generating electricity.


----------



## wfgScott

This has been a great resource for me as I lurked around in the shadows for several years. Most of my google searches for information linked me to posts here and this is a great group of guys and gals with similar passions. Since I am taking delivery of a 2009 2500B Friday I decided to join so hopefully I can add some of my knowledge as I learn where I can. My 3 gang pro-mow unit served its purpose but at the end of the day it just wasn't substantial enough to keep my riviera bermuda at 1/2 HOC without 3 passes every 2 days. Its set up for tee box mowing with the 7 blade reels so it should be a good fit and my little golf practice area I have will hopefully see more golf balls and less mowing time.


----------



## Thor865

Ok guys what is the best way to resolve this



My hoc is the same on both sides. I believe I'm out of parallel from front roller to rear roller, or Bedknife to front roller, or both. And I know you need a bench plate to properly set this but I do not have one and only other option I've seen from rr products is just as much as a bench plate.



So any other ways to check this? Or any other ideas what's causing it?


----------



## MasterMech

Go get a large digital caliper from harbor freight and measure the distance between the front and rear roller axles? That would give you parallel but not necessarily straight. If you had a way to measure using the reel axle as a reference point, you could get it straight.


----------



## g-man

The way I did was using the bedknife.

1) ensure bedknife to reel is correct on both sides. Ensure all the bolts are tight.
2) place a straight edge/level on the bedknife towards the front roller. Use a caliper to measure from the straight edge to the roller in each side. Adjust as needed using the eccentric.
3) now use the front roller and touching the bedknife to adjust the rear roller (remember to undo the bar that connects the two). 
4) check your setup. Using the straight edge try to find a 24in x 24in section of your drive way that is leveled. Place the head there. It should be flat without any rocking or roller not touching. At last, use a small wood block (ideally to your hoc) and place it on the floor and see if the bedknife touches at the same point.

No need to spend $250 on a tool.


----------



## Thor865

g-man said:


> The way I did was using the bedknife.
> 
> 1) ensure bedknife to reel is correct on both sides. Ensure all the bolts are tight.
> 2) place a straight edge/level on the bedknife towards the front roller. Use a caliper to measure from the straight edge to the roller in each side. Adjust as needed using the eccentric.
> 3) now use the front roller and touching the bedknife to adjust the rear roller (remember to undo the bar that connects the two).
> 4) check your setup. Using the straight edge try to find a 24in x 24in section of your drive way that is leveled. Place the head there. It should be flat without any rocking or roller not touching. At last, use a small wood block (ideally to your hoc) and place it on the floor and see if the bedknife touches at the same point.
> 
> No need to spend $250 on a tool.


I'll give it a go and see what I can do. Thanks for the help.


----------



## Chaseweeks1

got a new toy


----------



## Thor865

kur1j said:


> For my 220c I've got this gun. GreaseTek Premium Pistol Grip Grease Gun with 18" Hose and Extension Pipe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019P1MRKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v5bnBbAH2KDRH
> 
> and this grease.
> 
> Lucas Oil 10301 Heavy Duty Grease, 14.5 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IG20RW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p6bnBbKVEDBX7
> 
> I think the manual tells you what grease to use though.


Been a bit but I finally got the grease and guns y'all mentioned before. The grease tip that came on this gun will fit my connections on the JD ?

And how do you know how much grease or should I say how to tel if you've over greased?


----------



## Chaseweeks1

Thor865 said:


> And how do you know how much grease or should I say how to tel if you've over greased?


You will feel pressure against you on the handle when you pull it back, it's one of those feel things.


----------



## afa

I'm having an issue with my 180c. I've done most of the required maintenance but I can't seem to get the reel to engage once I engage the clutch lever. I've engaged the reel clutch handle on the transfer case but as soon as I engage the clutch lever, the engine shuts off. It doesn't matter if the throttle on the engine is low or high.

Without the reel clutch handle engaged on the transfer case, the roller will work and the mower will move forward. I only got the reel to work twice but nothing since.

Anyone have any idea why the reel wont engage?


----------



## Flynt2799

afa said:


> I'm having an issue with my 180c. I've done most of the required maintenance but I can't seem to get the reel to engage once I engage the clutch lever. I've engaged the reel clutch handle on the transfer case but as soon as I engage the clutch lever, the engine shuts off. It doesn't matter if the throttle on the engine is low or high.
> 
> Without the reel clutch handle engaged on the transfer case, the roller will work and the mower will move forward. I only got the reel to work twice but nothing since.
> 
> Anyone have any idea why the reel wont engage?


Does the reel move freely by hand when the lever is not engaged? Could bee to much tension between the reel and bed knife.


----------



## afa

It does move freely. There is a bit of tension between the reel and bedknife but nothing too extreme.


----------



## Flynt2799

@afa next thing I would check would be the chain drive. Make sure that the tension is not to tight. Maybe try removing the chain to see if the transmission will even engage without the tension of the chain/reel. That should help you narrow it down.

When was the last time fluids were changed? How did the transmission fluid look?


----------



## mantnyh

I have a 220B and for the life of me I can't seem to find where to change/inspect the transmission fluid. Does it really have trans fluid? I mean there are no gears. Is is simply a fluid for the gear case? Even if that is what it is...I can't find where to check it. I have looked in the tech manual also. I feel really dumb.


----------



## g-man

@mantnyh I think @kur1j had this issue too. I don't recall what he did.

The online manual tries to explain in the filling gear case. http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMMT7384_K5/Output/Index.html?tM=HO


----------



## mantnyh

Thanks @g-man I've read that over and over. I've avoided changing anything since I don't see how to check the level as it mentions, but doesn't show. Maybe just fully drain it and refill it.


----------



## g-man

I think that's what kur1j did. On the 220E you can't really check it. You fill from a top screw until the bottom screw overflows. I drained mine, flushed it and then filled it. I had a whole gallon and it uses like 1/3 quart.


----------



## kur1j

@g-man @mantnyh It has trans fluid . I couldn't figure out a good way to check the oil capacity either so this is what I did.

In the manual, it states that the transmission has an "oil capacity: 0.4 L (0.4 qt)". Its in the "Transmission and Hydraulic Oil" section found here.

http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMTCU22823_A9/Output/Index.html?tM=

I tipped it on its back and drained it as much as I could into a measuring container. It came out to be right at slightly less than .4L. I then simply put .4L back into the gearbox.

I've seen other comments in documentation saying to fill up to the "bottom of the fill port" and other terminology as well. But IMO this is simply for lubrication.


----------



## mantnyh

Got'er did! The stuff actually looks new. Oh well better safe than sorry. Thanks for all the help.


----------



## kur1j

@mantnyh What did you end up doing?


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

Who has a verticutter attachment? How do you set it up? How often do you use it?


----------



## kur1j

@thesouthernreelmower Do you mean the groomer?


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

kur1j said:


> @thesouthernreelmower Do you mean the groomer?


Yes, that's probably the correct name for it.


----------



## Thor865

thesouthernreelmower said:


> kur1j said:
> 
> 
> 
> @thesouthernreelmower Do you mean the groomer?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's probably the correct name for it.
Click to expand...

I set my groomer about 1/3 below hoc setting. So right now I'm at .6 hoc and .4 groomer. I don't use it every time usually every other mow.


----------



## kur1j

Thor865 said:


> thesouthernreelmower said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kur1j said:
> 
> 
> 
> @thesouthernreelmower Do you mean the groomer?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's probably the correct name for it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I set my groomer about 1/3 below hoc setting. So right now I'm at .6 hoc and .4 groomer. I don't use it every time usually every other mow.
Click to expand...

Yours goes that low? I'm at like .5" and the groomer is only 1/8" or so below my HoC.


----------



## mantnyh

@kur1j I just removed the plug bolt and let it drain. Then removed the reel engagement arm and filled that way. Still no way to see the level that I can find.


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

About to grease and change the fluid in the gear case. Is this what everyone uses?


----------



## g-man

It depends on your model. I use the SD on the rollers but not the reel and the hygard is different. The online manual for your model will list what to use.


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

g-man said:


> It depends on your model. I use the SD on the rollers but not the reel and the hygard is different. The online manual for your model will list what to use.


It's for my 180c.


----------



## g-man

SD for the reel and J20C hy gard. The one in your picture is the J20D.

Here is the 180C manual. Go to lubrication.


----------



## kur1j

@thesouthernreelmower I have, and used J20C.


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

g-man said:


> SD for the reel and J20C hy gard. The one in your picture is the J20D.
> 
> Here is the 180C manual. Go to lubrication.


Thanks. What's the difference between the two oils for the gearcase?


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

Seems the difference between j20c and j20d is d is meant for winter/colder climate.


----------



## afa

Flynt2799 said:


> @afa next thing I would check would be the chain drive. Make sure that the tension is not to tight. Maybe try removing the chain to see if the transmission will even engage without the tension of the chain/reel. That should help you narrow it down.
> 
> When was the last time fluids were changed? How did the transmission fluid look?


Chain drive is good not too tight. I did adjust the reel back so that it didn't touch the bed knife at all. You could spin it with one finger but still wouldn't engage. Engine shuts off immediately. I'm not sure when the transmission oil was last changed but the oil looked good when I took out a bit.

Any suggestions? Should I remove the reel chain?


----------



## 985arrowhead

thesouthernreelmower said:


> About to grease and change the fluid in the gear case. Is this what everyone uses?


I have a 180c and I grease every zerk fitting with the SD grease.

For the hygard you have the low viscosity hygard pictures but in the manual I believe and I use just hygard.

Then for the engine oil Turfgard 10w-30.


----------



## roundrockag

Considering jumping on an upcoming Weeks auction to get a JD reel mower. I get the who 180 vs 220 vs 260 thing as this obviously addresses the cutting width (18", 22", or 26"). What I am curious about is what are the differences between something like these models: 180, 180b, 180c, 180e, 180sl ? Thanks for any input, guys.


----------



## FRD135i

roundrockag said:


> Considering jumping on an upcoming Weeks auction to get a JD reel mower. I get the who 180 vs 220 vs 260 thing as this obviously addresses the cutting width (18", 22", or 26"). What I am curious about is what are the differences between something like these models: 180, 180b, 180c, 180e, 180sl ? Thanks for any input, guys.


The series (A,B,C etc) has to do with model "years". There is a breakdown in the first couple of pages in this thread. E series is the newest one and runs the hybrid setup. Gas motor, electric reel


----------



## roundrockag

Thanks, @FRD135i , I must have missed it when I first read through this thread. That helps me to understand.


----------



## MasterMech

thesouthernreelmower said:


> Seems the difference between j20c and j20d is d is meant for winter/colder climate.


Those two hydraulic oils are interchangeable. You can use J20D (Low Visc) anywhere J20C is spec'd.


----------



## Flynt2799

afa said:


> Flynt2799 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @afa next thing I would check would be the chain drive. Make sure that the tension is not to tight. Maybe try removing the chain to see if the transmission will even engage without the tension of the chain/reel. That should help you narrow it down.
> 
> When was the last time fluids were changed? How did the transmission fluid look?
> 
> 
> 
> Chain drive is good not too tight. I did adjust the reel back so that it didn't touch the bed knife at all. You could spin it with one finger but still wouldn't engage. Engine shuts off immediately. I'm not sure when the transmission oil was last changed but the oil looked good when I took out a bit.
> 
> Any suggestions? Should I remove the reel chain?
Click to expand...

I would remove the chain and try engaging the reel. This should remove all tension I would think.

How about your belts? How do those look? Have you adjusted the tension on them at all?

Just trying to narrow down why the matching is wanting to shut down when engaging the reel. Somethings gotta be stressing the engine enough to do this.


----------



## g-man

@afa I think @kur1j also had an issue of the engine shutting down when the reel was engaged. Go back in this thread to find youtube videos. We discovered that the engine to transfer case pulley was not aligned whenever the reel pulley was engaged. I think he re-aligned reduced the amount of travel in the reel.drive pulley.


----------



## afa

g-man said:


> @afa I think @kur1j also had an issue of the engine shutting down when the reel was engaged. Go back in this thread to find youtube videos. We discovered that the engine to transfer case pulley was not aligned whenever the reel pulley was engaged. I think he re-aligned reduced the amount of travel in the reel.drive pulley.


Thank you g-man! I just looked at all his videos. His problem seemed to have been horrible vibration when engaging the reel. His last video mentioned the engine and the pulleys were out of alignment which was causing the vibration. Mine might be extremely out of alignment which would cause the engine to completely shut off when engaging the reel. I look into it tonight if I can. Hopefully that fixes my issue!

@Flynt2799 I'm going to see if there is a misalignment between the engine and pulleys. That might explain why the engine shuts off. Thanks for your help!


----------



## g-man

Try to take a video too. The slow motion on an iphone is really good for this.


----------



## Flynt2799

g-man said:


> Try to take a video too. The slow motion on an iphone is really good for this.


+1


----------



## mantnyh

So today I cleaned out the carborator hoping it would fix the throttle issues. I had to adjust low throttle due to removing it to clean. However once I started the mower after the clean it still acts choked at high throttle. It also acts choked and struggles to run once the PTO is engaged. I have attached a video for reference.

https://youtu.be/NjCEB1MngdQ


----------



## Michael303

Amaxwell5 said:


> Thor865 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible to remove axels? Saw where others did on their toro gm's but didn't know if it was that way for JD. I Have 220E
> 
> 
> 
> I have a detachable axle setup in the works. As soon as I can finish the machining I'll post it. It should be cheap and very handy.
Click to expand...

Did you ever get anywhere with this? I'm really interested.


----------



## Amaxwell5

Michael303 said:


> Amaxwell5 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thor865 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible to remove axels? Saw where others did on their toro gm's but didn't know if it was that way for JD. I Have 220E
> 
> 
> 
> I have a detachable axle setup in the works. As soon as I can finish the machining I'll post it. It should be cheap and very handy.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Did you ever get anywhere with this? I'm really interested.
Click to expand...

No I haven't had time to work on it anymore since then. I need to get it finished. I have just been doing other stuff. I'll try to finish soon so I can post on here.


----------



## Michael303

Amaxwell5 said:


> No I haven't had time to work on it anymore since then. I need to get it finished. I have just been doing other stuff. I'll try to finish soon so I can post on here.


Looking forward to it. I couldn't bring myself to take off the axels without return even though I probably don't need them in my situation.


----------



## jha4aamu

i have a 260sl and I am looking for a 3" front roller (preferably grooved or spiraled). R&R carries some 3" rollers but for the 260c models. anyone know if those are compatible w/ the 260sl models?


----------



## 985arrowhead

Michael303 said:


> Amaxwell5 said:
> 
> 
> 
> No I haven't had time to work on it anymore since then. I need to get it finished. I have just been doing other stuff. I'll try to finish soon so I can post on here.
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to it. I couldn't bring myself to take off the axels without return even though I probably don't need them in my situation.
Click to expand...

+1


----------



## Michael303

Can the reels on the JD mowers be removed to be sharpened or do I need to take the entire mower somewhere to have it sharpened? I'm assuming it can be removed but figured I'd ask since I don't actually have a mower.

Speaking of which, where does everyone go to have their reels sharpened? Do I need to take it to a shop or do some of the local golf courses have the equipment to do it?


----------



## Chaseweeks1

You need to take the whole mower to get sharpened, most golf courses would sharpen it for you especially since it is towards the end of the season and they are slowing everything down for winter.


----------



## kur1j

afa said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> @afa I think @kur1j also had an issue of the engine shutting down when the reel was engaged. Go back in this thread to find youtube videos. We discovered that the engine to transfer case pulley was not aligned whenever the reel pulley was engaged. I think he re-aligned reduced the amount of travel in the reel.drive pulley.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you g-man! I just looked at all his videos. His problem seemed to have been horrible vibration when engaging the reel. His last video mentioned the engine and the pulleys were out of alignment which was causing the vibration. Mine might be extremely out of alignment which would cause the engine to completely shut off when engaging the reel. I look into it tonight if I can. Hopefully that fixes my issue!
> 
> @Flynt2799 I'm going to see if there is a misalignment between the engine and pulleys. That might explain why the engine shuts off. Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...

Yeah, you are correct. It was just horrible vibration. After realigning seems to have fixed the issue.


----------



## Michael303

What's everyone's experience with rusty front rollers and groomers? The Week's mowers I'm looking at all have completely rusted rollers and groomers. I'm assuming that's not a huge deal and I can probably just knock it off with a wire wheel. Could I then protect it with something? Is there any other rust I should be concerned about?

What does everyone think about the E models too? The guy at Week's suggested I steer clear as maintenance can be very expensive.


----------



## Jrich

Bump

I am looking at the same Week's Mowers as well. Curious on everyone's opinion as well. I am a reel mower noob.


----------



## g-man

Rust is not a problem. I used a rust remover to remove most of mine. One of my roller had a bad bearing and I had to replace the roller.

I have a 220E and I like it. There is a risk with the controller/wire damage, but these things are built like a tank.

What's the link to the weeks auction? I think I missed their email.


----------



## Jacob_S

My rollers had some rust I sprayed some wd40 to help but once I started mowing they cleaned off just fine.


----------



## Michael303

Thanks for the feedback.

How about the reel adjustment knob? If they're missing can you just screw on new ones?

Here's the auction.
https://bid.uselevel.com/ui/auctions/38?mainCategory=All


----------



## Jacob_S

Just realized you asked about e models, I wouldn't trade my 220e for anything. Yes there will be some costs involved when things go out, but all the positives that come with the e make the mower well worth it IMHO.


----------



## Michael303

Jacob_S said:


> Just realized you asked about e models, I wouldn't trade my 220e for anything. Yes there will be some costs involved when things go out, but all the positives that come with the e make the mower well worth it IMHO.


Are there advantages beyond adjusting the clip rate?


----------



## g-man

I did not see a 220E, only 180E. I'm not sure how I feel about 18in stripes.

You can buy all the parts o line for the JD.


----------



## Flynt2799

@Michael303 Like others have said, rust shouldn't be an issue. Wire brush knocks most of it off. If you are really OCD like me you can use a wire brush dremel tool attachment to get it looking real good.


----------



## MasterMech

Michael303 said:


> Jacob_S said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just realized you asked about e models, I wouldn't trade my 220e for anything. Yes there will be some costs involved when things go out, but all the positives that come with the e make the mower well worth it IMHO.
> 
> 
> 
> Are there advantages beyond adjusting the clip rate?
Click to expand...

On-board back-lapping capability.


----------



## Jacob_S

Michael303 said:


> Are there advantages beyond adjusting the clip rate?


clip rate, on board backlapping with the flip of a switch. The floating head is nice especially for me cause I've not done any leveling yet. Due to the reel having its own electric drive motor you can run the engine RPM pretty low which makes for a quiet mowing experience. I am not sure about the 180 but the 220 has a big HOC adjustment range, I have mine at 1" and have room to go higher and, well, all the way down to dirt if I really wanted to.

I was actually wanting a Toro GM1600 when I bought this, but lost out on the ones I was bidding on, I decided to bid on this mower just for fun and ended up winning it for under $500. I will be honest, I know there are plenty members with the Toro machines but I am very happy with the way things worked out for me and getting this mower.


----------



## anthonybilotta

Hey guys,

I think im going to be going to check out a used 220C. Heres the link:

https://dallas.craigslist.org/sdf/grd/d/john-deere-reel-mower/6699489341.html

Any suggestions on what to look at? Im new to this. From what I gathered from this thread, it appears that I should check the state of the reel/measure the diameter if possible, check the condition of the chains/belts (if possible), also check for play in the reel to see if there are any issues with the bearings. Anything else you would all suggest?


----------



## Michael303

On the E models, do you still need to take the entire mower to have the reel sharpened or just the cutting head?


----------



## Jacob_S

Michael303 said:


> On the E models, do you still need to take the entire mower to have the reel sharpened or just the cutting head?


I don't know for sure but I'd imagine just the cutting head. I actually plan on bringing my entire mower to a local place this winter to have "a full service" done to it. Let someone else change all fluids and inspect the entire machine to see what, if anything needs replacement. Pretty much let some professionals go though it and tune it up.


----------



## g-man

Michael303 said:


> On the E models, do you still need to take the entire mower to have the reel sharpened or just the cutting head?


Just the QA5 head.


----------



## roundrockag

This may have been covered before, but just in case it hasn't, I know that many of the forum members are seemingly fairly picky. Picking up a used mower (or other item) may net you something that doesn't look as nice as you'd want. Sometimes cleaning it up is as simple as some elbow grease and time, but sometimes you might want to do some touch-ups or restoring depending on the condition of the equipment when you bought it. It's nice to know that Rustoleum makes paints that are John Deere green and yellow colors. Just in case any of you were wondering. These can be picked up at big box stores.


----------



## Michael303

I'm looking forward to doing just that during the off season.


----------



## 985arrowhead

Jacob_S said:


> Michael303 said:
> 
> 
> 
> On the E models, do you still need to take the entire mower to have the reel sharpened or just the cutting head?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know for sure but I'd imagine just the cutting head. I actually plan on bringing my entire mower to a local place this winter to have "a full service" done to it. Let someone else change all fluids and inspect the entire machine to see what, if anything needs replacement. Pretty much let some professionals go though it and tune it up.
Click to expand...

Still thinking about Ladd's correct?

You know I ended up getting that 180C. Paid $500, needing a grass catcher. So I am into it for around $600-650.

Looks like some real deals can be had on the Weeks auctions but I got it out of Jackson, MS and didn't have to drive all day to have get it or freight it. Acutally picked it up from the guy in Kentwood. Anyway, cut paper right out the truck at home. Bought an Accugage and set the height, changed the air filter and plug, Hygard in the transmission, Turfgard in the crankcase and greased all the zerks (except 1, I can't get the one zerk on the left side facing the reel of the roller drum to work. Grease just squirts around the fitting).


----------



## Kicker

anthonybilotta said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I think im going to be going to check out a used 220C. Heres the link:
> 
> https://dallas.craigslist.org/sdf/grd/d/john-deere-reel-mower/6699489341.html
> 
> Any suggestions on what to look at? Im new to this. From what I gathered from this thread, it appears that I should check the state of the reel/measure the diameter if possible, check the condition of the chains/belts (if possible), also check for play in the reel to see if there are any issues with the bearings. Anything else you would all suggest?


i hope you got a response back. I emailed him 3 days ago and there hasn't been a response.


----------



## Jacob_S

985arrowhead said:


> Still thinking about Ladd's correct?
> 
> You know I ended up getting that 180C. Paid $500, needing a grass catcher. So I am into it for around $600-650.
> 
> Looks like some real deals can be had on the Weeks auctions but I got it out of Jackson, MS and didn't have to drive all day to have get it or freight it. Acutally picked it up from the guy in Kentwood. Anyway, cut paper right out the truck at home. Bought an Accugage and set the height, changed the air filter and plug, Hygard in the transmission, Turfgard in the crankcase and greased all the zerks (except 1, I can't get the one zerk on the left side facing the reel of the roller drum to work. Grease just squirts around the fitting).


yep

and hells yea man, good score!


----------



## Michael303

Are there any specialty tools work picking up to work on an 180SL mower? I have all the standard tools a man should have and then some. I'm considering a HOC bar but I'll probably go the DIY route. Anything else I need?


----------



## g-man

You need metric sockets and wrenches. The main one is a 16mm on the 220E. This size is rarely used in cars and some kits don't include it.


----------



## Michael303

Thanks. How badly do I need a grease gun?


----------



## Jacob_S

Grease gun is good to have, metric sockets. I bought a john deere HOC bar with the screws and wing nuts just cause. Also a dedicated backlap brush is handy.
I am thinking of buying or making a bedknife buddy.


----------



## TulsaFan

I called PK Equipment in Stillwater, OK today and a lady quoted me $500 for a relief grind on an 18" reel? That is what I thought a new reel and bed knife would cost? What and where are you paying for your grinds?


----------



## 985arrowhead

Michael303 said:


> Thanks. How badly do I need a grease gun?


JD Recommends every 50 hours I believe to grease the unit. There are about 16-20 points on the machine to hit. You can get the small tubes of the SD Urea grease for under $5 and JD has a kit with mini gun and 2 tubes of grease for under $25. I did buy a small 12" extension hose from Tractor supply to make it easier on me to grease a few of the fittings.

Not a big investment on something to have. If I have to cut when the grass is wet or I hose off the mower I usually hit each fitting with a little squeeze to make sure I didn't blow any grease out with the hose.


----------



## 985arrowhead

TulsaFan said:


> I called PK Equipment in Stillwater, OK today and a lady quoted me $500 for a relief grind on an 18" reel? That is what I thought a new reel and bed knife would cost? What and where are you paying for your grinds?


I haven't had my JD180C ground yet but for my 25"Mclane 7 blade the local guy charged me $150.

JD 18" reel for 11 blade is about $350 and BK is only like $40. You can find new parts for less than that quote. Direct from JD or R&R.


----------



## Michael303

Jacob_S said:


> Grease gun is good to have, metric sockets. I bought a john deere HOC bar with the screws and wing nuts just cause. Also a dedicated backlap brush is handy.
> I am thinking of buying or making a bedknife buddy.


Thanks. Do you have a link or part number for the JD HOC bar?


----------



## Michael303

985arrowhead said:


> JD Recommends every 50 hours I believe to grease the unit. There are about 16-20 points on the machine to hit. You can get the small tubes of the SD Urea grease for under $5 and JD has a kit with mini gun and 2 tubes of grease for under $25. I did buy a small 12" extension hose from Tractor supply to make it easier on me to grease a few of the fittings.
> 
> Not a big investment on something to have. If I have to cut when the grass is wet or I hose off the mower I usually hit each fitting with a little squeeze to make sure I didn't blow any grease out with the hose.


Thanks for the feedback.


----------



## Jacob_S

@Michael303 not off hand, I have an operator's manual saved on my computer at work and it has the part number, I looked it up on greenfarmparts. All JD parts I've bought has come from that site.


----------



## joeker

All,

I've come across a John deere 220a for $500. I'm assuming this is a better platform over my tru cut p20.. Is it a good deal? Supposedly in good working condition.

Thanks


----------



## Michael303

Depends a lot on the condition. An A series is about 18-21 years old now. You can get a C, SL, or possibly an E series from a Week's auction for less than that but then you'll have to pay to get it shipped.


----------



## Chaseweeks1

I spent about $300 on my 220a


----------



## drenglish

I bought a 220A in good shape for $200 plus a bit of driving to get it. The owner had bought a golf course, flipped it and parted out the equipment. Basket and transport wheels included and this thing is a beast compared to my Trimmer. This will be my winter project to clean up and use in the Spring.


----------



## TulsaFan

Do John Deere transport wheels fit all models: A, B, C, SL, & E? If so, anyone have any suggestions to find a cheap pair other than talking to a local golf course?


----------



## ga_dawg

I've read that the 220e uses the same electric motor as the 2500e does. Does anyone know if it is possible to use a qa5 verticut reel in a 220e?


----------



## Jacob_S

ga_dawg said:


> I've read that the 220e uses the same electric motor as the 2500e does. Does anyone know if it is possible to use a qa5 verticut reel in a 220e?


I am hoping to pick up a set of verticuts from Weeks and test this, it will require swapping out the bracket that attaches the QA5 to the mower.


----------



## g-man

One question I do have is the torque settings in the 220E controller. Whenever the motor sees high torque (a piece of mulch or stick), it tells the reel to stop (fault). I'm not sure if this is adjustable.

I'm also not sure if it is torque or the speed of the motor.


----------



## ga_dawg

Jacob_S said:


> ga_dawg said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've read that the 220e uses the same electric motor as the 2500e does. Does anyone know if it is possible to use a qa5 verticut reel in a 220e?
> 
> 
> 
> I am hoping to pick up a set of verticuts from Weeks and test this, it will require swapping out the bracket that attaches the QA5 to the mower.
Click to expand...

Yep, looks like if you switch the yoke to the one used on the 220e it will fit. Not sure how to set the clip rate.....

If you do end up getting a set from weeks let us know how it goes!


----------



## Jacob_S

@g-man This has crossed my mind, my thoughts were to bump clip rate to the fastest speed, then keep engine RPM high enough to hopefully not cause that auto stop thing to happen. I have only had mine stop the reel a few times when scalping due to thicker grass being cut, but by bumping engine RPM up a touch it is fine.

@ga_dawg Will do, I am watching the Dec. auction in hopes of picking up a set, not holding my breath though, verticut sets tend to fetch a higher bid. My thought is if I can snag some for under $1k I'll buy, if it works on the 220e I'll have two reels to sell. If it doesn't, I will probably hang on to all three in hopes I one day have a lawn large enough for a 2500.


----------



## MasterMech

g-man said:


> You need metric sockets and wrenches. The main one is a 16mm on the 220E. This size is rarely used in cars and some kits don't include it.


16mm and 5/8" interchange nicely if the need arises.


----------



## khayden10

I bought a 220a about a year ago its in great shape and runs just as well. I changed trans fluid, greased all fittings, filter, (normal maintenance)It rolled around easily with real not engaged. Within the last 2 weeks I noticed it not rolling as freely as of yesterday it will hardly roll forward at all rolls back just fine I even took belts off to see if that was the problem and same results. Any idea what the problem could be?


----------



## Pete1313

khayden10 said:


> I bought a 220a about a year ago its in great shape and runs just as well. I changed trans fluid, greased all fittings, filter, (normal maintenance)It rolled around easily with real not engaged. Within the last 2 weeks I noticed it not rolling as freely as of yesterday it will hardly roll forward at all rolls back just fine I even took belts off to see if that was the problem and same results. Any idea what the problem could be?


Silly question, but did you check the parking brake and make sure it is not engaged? Letter "E" in the picture?


If that is ok, check the parking brake adjustment, and inspect the parking brake band. Section 55, adjusting brake http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMTCU37245_19/?tM=. If that all checks ok, you could have an issue with the trans, or chains, or something obstructing the movement of the roller, but first check the brake system.


----------



## khayden10

Yes the parking brake is not engaged. It rolls like normal when the reel is engaged but it strange to me that it won't roll when in (I call it in neutral) but it will roll backwards just fine. My other thought could it be the bearings? but if was wouldn't it not roll when the reel is engaged?


----------



## Cheesetoast

Hi guys. I've got a 220E and find myself having to physically push it several times while mowing, because the drum "spins" on my bermuda.. Is this common to any of yall? I also notice that the drum is in two parts.. Are they both supposed to engage when moving forward, or just one?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Is the ground sloped severely or wet when this happens?


----------



## Cheesetoast

The slope is less than 10% grade, and it's not leveled yet. Was just wandering if it should be this challenging?
Has anyone ever thought about glueing on skateboard grip tape or something - for traction


----------



## Jacob_S

Cheesetoast said:


> Hi guys. I've got a 220E and find myself having to physically push it several times while mowing, because the drum "spins" on my bermuda.. Is this common to any of yall? I also notice that the drum is in two parts.. Are they both supposed to engage when moving forward, or just one?


I have this problem in my areas of thin growth, especially when the ground is wet and soft.


----------



## Pwmcadet12

Just purchased a 220E from a company that leases out reel mowers to golf courses. The machine starts up and runs solid from what I can tell so far. It will also cut paper but have yet to cut my yard with it yet because it is set up for 0.100 right now. The guy that I was dealing with told me the machine had around 500 hours on it. Once I got it home I checked the meter and it has 1650 from what I can tell. I paid $848. I feel like I can get the same mower at auction for a lot cheaper. Weeks auction is not to far away from where am I at. Do you guys think I would be better off just going that route? Pics of the unit below. Does come with grass catcher but no transport wheels.


----------



## g-man

A used 220E with the GTC system sells around 3k. On auction they seem to be hovering around $350-400, before fees and taxes. Add to that the time to drive to pick it up, plus the risk of not being the highest bidder.

Check for play in the bearings of the rollers. Look at the life of the reel. A new one is 5in in diameter and they need replacement at 4.5in. Look at the grease and oil to see if it was properly maintained. All of this is more important than the timer.


----------



## Pwmcadet12

g-man said:


> A used 220E with the GTC system sells around 3k. On auction they seem to be hovering around $350-400, before fees and taxes. Add to that the time to drive to pick it up, plus the risk of not being the highest bidder.
> 
> Check for play in the bearings of the rollers. Look at the life of the reel. A new one is 5in in diameter and they need replacement at 4.5in. Look at the grease and oil to see if it was properly maintained. All of this is more important than the timer.


What is the best way to check the diameter of the reel? I'm thinking with a string and mark it then measure with ruler on flat surface?


----------



## g-man

Hmm, never done it mounted. The string is a good idea. If not measure the edge of the feel to the center shaft. I have a reel in the garage that I could measure the center shaft.


----------



## Jdaniel611

@Pwmcadet12 normally shops use a PI tape strip with a magnet but they are about $100.

You could pickup a 6ft pi tape for $13 at a waterworks store or online.

The string method is the cheapest. Circle the reel with the string, mark the start and end remove and measure the length and take pi to find the diameter.


----------



## g-man

I tried to measure the inner shaft, but I cant get there with my calipers. The outside of the shaft (machined for the bearings) is 24mm. The inner looks larger.

I'm going to throw this 14 blade reel into the recycle bin. If someone wants it, let me know before the recycle truck shows up.


----------



## g-man

With all the auction purchases, I'm bumping this thread. This website has the technical manuals in pdf to print and use. It has more detail than the manuals online from JD.

http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual


----------



## TulsaFan

I don't know if anyone has mentioned this or not? On the recommendation of someone on this board, I started ordering my John Deere parts from Green Farm Parts. After you register for their account, you can place your items in the shopping cart and leave the site without paying.

A few days later, they emailed me the coupon code (10Dollar) to complete the sale. I didn't bite and the next day they sent me another coupon code (15Dollar) to complete the sale. There is a minimum of at least $75 or more in parts.

Hopefully this strategy helps someone...


----------



## osuaero

TulsaFan said:


> Do John Deere transport wheels fit all models: A, B, C, SL, & E? If so, anyone have any suggestions to find a cheap pair other than talking to a local golf course?


Did you have any luck finding a reasonable source for transport wheels? I recently purchased a 260C and severely underestimated the difficulty (cost) in sourcing a pair.


----------



## TulsaFan

osuaero said:


> Did you have any luck finding a reasonable source for transport wheels? I recently purchased a 260C and severely underestimated the difficulty (cost) in sourcing a pair.


I didn't find a cheaper source. It really is shocking that the transport wheel kit can run around $300.

@osuaero check your Private Messages.


----------



## walk1355

I am the type of person that likes to print manuals off so I can reference them in my garage or even in my yard if needed.

I printed the 176 page technical manual for my 260sl, but I also wanted to print the operators manual, but quickly found that it wasn't very printer friendly. Because of this, I decided to make a few quick reference guides out of the operators manual. Thought I'd share.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1XP6I-Rc-EL7IJeIx6mgWwVZRrdPx3W7p?usp=sharing


----------



## walk1355

The last few afternoons I have spent going over my 260SL with a fine tooth comb. I have changed the engine oil, the hydraulic oil in the gear box, drained all the old gas, cleaned the carb, replaced the spark plug, replaced the air filter, adjusted the bedknife to reel (it cuts paper with ease), adjusted the HOC (don't have a HOC bar yet) as best I could, and changed the belts.

I have a couple of issues present that I can't figure out and have tried everything that it says to do in the manuals and what my googlefu has yielded.

1. My engine surges but only at full throttle. After the engine runs for 10+ minutes, it gets better but still does it. If I choke the engine, the surging goes away completely. To me, this means fuel starvation. I have disassembled the carburetor twice now, cleaning the emulsion tube, the main jet, the idle jet and have sprayed generous amounts of carburetor cleaner in every orifice of the carburetor , and it still does it. I have a new carburetor on the way (a cheap off brand from amazon) to see if that helps. But does anyone have any other ideas?

2. When I engage the drive handle the mower goes from 0 to 100mph (not literally, but it freaking takes off), and there is no in between. It like jerks itself into drive and just takes off, feels violent. How do you adjust it in a way that it will gradually take off? Or is it designed to either be in gear or not and you adjust speed using the throttle?

Thanks in advance for the help.


----------



## Ware

walk1355 said:


> ...you adjust speed using the throttle?


This. :thumbsup:


----------



## g-man

1) I don't think I ever go full throttle, because I don't want to run after it. I would check the setup between the governor. It is a pain because you have to lift the gas tank. Check the springs for tention. But don't worry too much about it at full throttle.

2) yes the more idle you could have the engine without stalling it helps with speed. The other thing to learn is to feather the drive arm. Like driving a stick shift, find the point when it starts to engage and hold it there. Once you start moving then fully apply the drive.


----------



## TonyC

walk1355 said:


> 1. My engine surges but only at full throttle. After the engine runs for 10+ minutes, it gets better but still does it. If I choke the engine, the surging goes away completely. To me, this means fuel starvation. I have disassembled the carburetor twice now, cleaning the emulsion tube, the main jet, the idle jet and have sprayed generous amounts of carburetor cleaner in every orifice of the carburetor , and it still does it. I have a new carburetor on the way (a cheap off brand from amazon) to see if that helps. But does anyone have any other ideas?
> 
> 2. When I engage the drive handle the mower goes from 0 to 100mph (not literally, but it freaking takes off), and there is no in between. It like jerks itself into drive and just takes off, feels violent. How do you adjust it in a way that it will gradually take off? Or is it designed to either be in gear or not and you adjust speed using the throttle?
> 
> Thanks in advance for the help.


Are you hitting the Governor? A small engine that is not under load will over rev, so a mechanical limiter kicks in and retards the throttle. I love watching Taryl's videos. Hang in there through the early sitcom portion and he's quite informative.





As for engaging Drive, yes speed is managed through the throttle, there is no slip component to the engagement of the drive belts, well at least you don't want any. Idle down to a comfortable pace. The load on the engine when cutting and drive are engaged will bring the rpms down a bit.





Cheers!

Tony


----------



## walk1355

@TonyC Thanks. I also am a fan of Taryl. Funny yet very informative.


----------



## TonyC

@walk1355, there is also a Honda Carburetor Check Sheet diagram in this post on the Jacobsen thread.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=99&start=60#p112315

I found this YouTube to be helpful for the finer details of cleaning a Honda Carb.


----------



## mantnyh

I had the same exact issue with the surging. I cleaned the carburator several times to no avail. Ordered el cheapo carb on Amazon and it runs like a charm now. Good luck.


----------



## walk1355

mantnyh said:


> I had the same exact issue with the surging. I cleaned the carburator several times to no avail. Ordered el cheapo carb on Amazon and it runs like a charm now. Good luck.


Funny. I ordered a cheap carb from Amazon. came in today. Will try it out tomorrow.


----------



## walk1355

walk1355 said:


> mantnyh said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same exact issue with the surging. I cleaned the carburator several times to no avail. Ordered el cheapo carb on Amazon and it runs like a charm now. Good luck.
> 
> 
> 
> Funny. I ordered a cheap carb from Amazon. came in today. Will try it out tomorrow.
Click to expand...

This worked like a charm. Installed the brand new card today and no more surging.


----------



## mantnyh

walk1355 said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mantnyh said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same exact issue with the surging. I cleaned the carburator several times to no avail. Ordered el cheapo carb on Amazon and it runs like a charm now. Good luck.
> 
> 
> 
> Funny. I ordered a cheap carb from Amazon. came in today. Will try it out tomorrow.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This worked like a charm. Installed the brand new card today and no more surging.
Click to expand...

Awesome to hear! I kept the old one and will work on it some more. Now on to getting those stubborn bed knife screws out. Have a Merry Christmas.


----------



## walk1355

mantnyh said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Funny. I ordered a cheap carb from Amazon. came in today. Will try it out tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> This worked like a charm. Installed the brand new card today and no more surging.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Awesome to hear! I kept the old one and will work on it some more. Now on to getting those stubborn bed knife screws out. Have a Merry Christmas.
Click to expand...

Isn't there a tool for that?


----------



## TonyC

mantnyh said:


> ...Now on to getting those stubborn bed knife screws out. Have a Merry Christmas.


Use a punch and drive a firm strike down the middle of the screw. Then strike to one end of the screw driver slot at an angle. I had some seriously rusted threads and I started by drilling out the center and then working the threads out. After about 5 I realized that I could strike the screw to loosen the frozen threads and then tap in a rotational manner to back them out where a screw driver could be used.

Good Luck, but they should come out without much difficulty.


----------



## ga_dawg

Has anyone tried changing the stock JD light kit on the WGMs out with an LED pod? Is the voltage clean enough for an LED?


----------



## Ware

ga_dawg said:


> Has anyone tried changing the stock JD light kit on the WGMs out with an LED pod? Is the voltage clean enough for an LED?


The LED will require DC voltage. Here is a write-up that @wardconnor did for his Toro.


----------



## TulsaFan

@KCBen added some led lights he bought from Autozone to a John Deere WBGM. He said that it was a very simple install.


----------



## g-man

ga_dawg said:


> Has anyone tried changing the stock JD light kit on the WGMs out with an LED pod? Is the voltage clean enough for an LED?


I've noticed that my light intensity is a function of the rpm of the engine, therefore I've assumed the voltage is not super clean.


----------



## MasterMech

g-man said:


> ga_dawg said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone tried changing the stock JD light kit on the WGMs out with an LED pod? Is the voltage clean enough for an LED?
> 
> 
> 
> I've noticed that my light intensity is a function of the rpm of the engine, therefore I've assumed the voltage is not super clean.
Click to expand...

These machines are typically equipped with lighting coils rather than full-on charging systems. This means the output for lights is unregulated AC current, typically 10 - 30V depending on load. That's all well and good for a single incandescent or halogen headlight, but using LEDs requires some rectification to DC and possibly some voltage regulation as well. I think I'm going to buy a cheap regulator rectifier off amazon and give it a go on my Jake this year. I find myself mowing in the dark from time to time.


----------



## TulsaFan

For those of you who have a GTC/groomer on your John Deere, have you ever had problems with the Nut Adjuster (yellow) seizing to the carriage bolt (red)? When it happens, the GTC/groomer cannot be adjusted or removed due to the carriage bolt spinning freely. Twice, I have ended up cutting off the heads of the carriage bolt on (2) SL mowers.

I am pretty limited on tools...However, there has to be an easier way with a torch or something...Let's hear it!


----------



## g-man

Anti-seize? Change it to a shoulder screw?


----------



## TulsaFan

g-man said:


> Anti-seize? Change it to a shoulder screw?


I should have been more specific...

For those of you who have purchased used John Deere WBGM with a GTC/groomer, have you ever had problems with the Nut Adjuster (yellow) being seized to the carriage bolt (red)? I have purchased two different SL mowers that would not allow me to adjust or remove the the GTC/groomer due to the carriage bolt spinning freely. On both mowers, I ended up cutting off the heads of the carriage bolt with a Dremel.

(I'm assuming the new mowers are set to their cutting/groomer height per the course superintendent and they stay that way for a long time.)

I am pretty limited on tools...However, there has to be an easier way with a torch or something...Let's hear it!


----------



## FRD135i

Does anybody have a quick breakdown of the parts required for a reel swap(reel and bearings) for the 220B? I want to replace my reel during the short "winter" and find that using the electronic parts diagrams are a pain in the butt. Plus, I don't want to order too much or too little. Any help is appreciated!


----------



## g-man

I went thru each drawing created a list for the 220E. I then looked for equivalent part for the bearings since they used standard bearings. I don't think there is an easy list.


----------



## crussell

FRD135i said:


> Does anybody have a quick breakdown of the parts required for a reel swap(reel and bearings) for the 220B? I want to replace my reel during the short "winter" and find that using the electronic parts diagrams are a pain in the butt. Plus, I don't want to order too much or too little. Any help is appreciated!


I found R&R's part diagram to be pretty easy, but here is a quick list of components:

-Reel
-Bedknife
-Inner Reel Seals (2 EA)
-Bearing Races (2 EA)
-Tapered Bearings (2 EA)
-Outer Seal (1 EA)
-Bedknife Screws (12 Minimum but may want a few extra)
-Reel Chain (1 EA)
-Drive Chain (2 EA)
-Snap Ring (1 EA)
-Spring (1 EA)
-O Ring (1 EA)

I'd say the first half of this list is necessary for a reel swap, the second half is optional. I just replaced all of these on both of my John Deere's.


----------



## FRD135i

crussell said:


> FRD135i said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody have a quick breakdown of the parts required for a reel swap(reel and bearings) for the 220B? I want to replace my reel during the short "winter" and find that using the electronic parts diagrams are a pain in the butt. Plus, I don't want to order too much or too little. Any help is appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> I found R&R's part diagram to be pretty easy, but here is a quick list of components:
> 
> -Reel
> -Bedknife
> -Inner Reel Seals (2 EA)
> -Bearing Races (2 EA)
> -Tapered Bearings (2 EA)
> -Outer Seal (1 EA)
> -Bedknife Screws (12 Minimum but may want a few extra)
> -Reel Chain (1 EA)
> -Drive Chain (2 EA)
> -Snap Ring (1 EA)
> -Spring (1 EA)
> -O Ring (1 EA)
> 
> I'd say the first half of this list is necessary for a reel swap, the second half is optional. I just replaced all of these on both of my John Deere's.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Just did my bedknife due to a rouge root. Can I just do the reel and bearings?


----------



## KevC

Hi all, is there a thread that discusses reel sharpening and blade counts ? 
Not sure if a relief grind is necessary or standard, and how often it should be done, or if just a flat/spin grind is all you need?
Also if you're cutting a home game lawn at 1/2" or higher seems like lower blade count 7-9 is better than 11-14 blade counts, just not sure why? Think it has to do with frequency of cut but just trying to learn some of the ins and outs of reel mowing before taking the plunge 
Thanks for any guidance folks


----------



## Ware

KevC said:


> Hi all, is there a thread that discusses reel sharpening and blade counts ?
> Not sure if a relief grind is necessary or standard, and how often it should be done, or if just a flat/spin grind is all you need?
> Also if you're cutting a home game lawn at 1/2" or higher seems like lower blade count 7-9 is better than 11-14 blade counts, just not sure why? Think it has to do with frequency of cut but just trying to learn some of the ins and outs of reel mowing before taking the plunge
> Thanks for any guidance folks


Here are a few to get you started...

Clip Frquency

Grinding

Grinding


----------



## Kballen11

I'm looking for a 220 B grass catcher if anyone knows of some floating around out there.


----------



## KevC

Thanks @Ware 
This forum is an amazing tool to get real world opinions and knowledge without the spin/marketing of corporate sites


----------



## Ware

KevC said:


> Thanks Ware
> This forum is an amazing tool to get real world opinions and knowledge without the spin/marketing of corporate sites


Thanks for the kind words KevC. :thumbsup:


----------



## crussell

For anyone that has replaced their belts - @Pete1313 ? Do you have any advice for proper adjustment afterwards? I followed the manual and measured the belt deflection when re positioning the engine, had the cable ends threaded in a neutral middle positions, and then adjusted cable tension.

However I am still having issues. Any tighter and the machine wants to creep with the clutch disengaged, any looser and the machine wont move at all with the clutch engaged and the reel engaged.


----------



## Pete1313

Try making the belt tension a little looser by moving the engine. Then adjust the cable again. Let us know if that works.


----------



## akril

Hi everyone. I'm looking to buy a used (2013-2015) greens mower. Trying to choose between 220e, 220sl, and 260sl. Leaning towards 260sl as it would make it faster to mow my 10k sq ft yard.

But still have some questions.

220e


QA5 head. People mention it often. Seems to only go with 220e
It is easy to get it out to sharpen. You don't have to get whole mower with you. But how often will I have to do it, if I plan to do backlapping myself?
I think someone here mentioned qa5 verticutter heads, and they would try to use it on 220E, but I did not find the confirumation that it would work. There were concerns with torque settings.
Does it have any technical benefits over SL heads? Someone mentioned some improvements in design.

Onboard backlapping - does not seem to be an important feature as it is easy to do it manually on 260SL.
FOC adjustment - i plan to stay >= .5 inch so it does not seem to be a very important feature for me. Right?
Floating head - same as above?
It seems to be less reliable theoretically as has more points of failure
Did I miss something?

220SL

Are there any technical benefits over 260sl except for weight? Like more standard 22 inch head? 
You can not easily extract cutting heads on SL mowers. Right?


----------



## Cavan806

crussell said:


> For anyone that has replaced their belts - Pete1313 ? Do you have any advice for proper adjustment afterwards? I followed the manual and measured the belt deflection when re positioning the engine, had the cable ends threaded in a neutral middle positions, and then adjusted cable tension.
> 
> However I am still having issues. Any tighter and the machine wants to creep with the clutch disengaged, any looser and the machine wont move at all with the clutch engaged and the reel engaged.


So I replaced my belts this past weekend as well. Curious if you have been able to solve your tension issues yet? My issue seems pretty similar. Before I replaced the belts my motor was in the furthest rear position on the mounts. I am thinking that it was probably positioned that way after the belts had worn down and stretched out a bit (if that makes sense). Is it normal to adjust the motor position(forward position for new belts rear position for "older" belts) over time to compensate for newer or older belts? I confirmed I replaced with the correct belts, however my belts were so tight that I was unable to even get the mower into gear. I adjusted a little forward and that seemed to help but I am thinking I need to move the motor even further forward to operate normally. Any additional advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.

Winter maintenance is awesome. I always feel more relaxed working on the mower knowing I don't have to have it back up an running in time to get the cut in. I also replaced my brake disc, air filter, cleaned the carb, changed the motor oil, and re-lubed all the points.

Cheers!


----------



## joeker

I have the opportunity to purchase a 220C. Haven't gotten a chance to take a look at it yet, but the owner says its in good working condition. What would everyone say would be a good price?


----------



## crussell

joeker said:


> I have the opportunity to purchase a 220C. Haven't gotten a chance to take a look at it yet, but the owner says its in good working condition. What would everyone say would be a good price?


Depending on condition, reel life, etc. I've paid between $500 and $850 for my mowers, which is fair.


----------



## crussell

Cavan806 said:


> crussell said:
> 
> 
> 
> For anyone that has replaced their belts - Pete1313 ? Do you have any advice for proper adjustment afterwards? I followed the manual and measured the belt deflection when re positioning the engine, had the cable ends threaded in a neutral middle positions, and then adjusted cable tension.
> 
> However I am still having issues. Any tighter and the machine wants to creep with the clutch disengaged, any looser and the machine wont move at all with the clutch engaged and the reel engaged.
> 
> 
> 
> So I replaced my belts this past weekend as well. Curious if you have been able to solve your tension issues yet? My issue seems pretty similar. Before I replaced the belts my motor was in the furthest rear position on the mounts. I am thinking that it was probably positioned that way after the belts had worn down and stretched out a bit (if that makes sense). Is it normal to adjust the motor position(forward position for new belts rear position for "older" belts) over time to compensate for newer or older belts? I confirmed I replaced with the correct belts, however my belts were so tight that I was unable to even get the mower into gear. I adjusted a little forward and that seemed to help but I am thinking I need to move the motor even further forward to operate normally. Any additional advice you can offer would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Winter maintenance is awesome. I always feel more relaxed working on the mower knowing I don't have to have it back up an running in time to get the cut in. I also replaced my brake disc, air filter, cleaned the carb, changed the motor oil, and re-lubed all the points.
> 
> Cheers!
Click to expand...

I'm glad you asked - I was just about to post my frustrations that I am STILL having. I tinkered with it a little more last night but still having issues.

I've adjusted motor position, and fine tuned at both end of the cables. I can damn near tell you the manual word for word by now. BUT. Still, When the drive is disengaged, there is still enough tension on the belts that the machine wants to creep at low throttle.

AND. at the same time, when the drive is engaged, there is not enough tension for the belts to fully catch. This problem is significantly more noticeable when the reel is engaged, though I can assure you the reel is free spinning and not over tightened to the bedknife.

HOW CAN I HAVE BOTH PROBLEMS AT THE SAME TIME???


----------



## walk1355

joeker said:


> I have the opportunity to purchase a 220C. Haven't gotten a chance to take a look at it yet, but the owner says its in good working condition. What would everyone say would be a good price?


I've recently sold some John deere and a tru cut for the flowing prices:
1. 220sl $700
2. 220sl $700
3. 260c $1000
4. Tru cut p20 $400


----------



## Cavan806

@@crussell 
It is my understanding that it is normal for the mower to want to creep forward at lowest throttle. Mine has always done that. To keep it stopped during mows when I am dumping the grass or moving it to the garage or shed I've always had to engage the brake.


----------



## crussell

@Cavan806 I'm inclined to agree with you. The reality is that I'm sure a perfect adjustment is doable like shown in the service manual. I mean mine seemed to be adjusted properly before I replaced the belts. At this point I'm going to dial it in as best as I can, then mow over the service manual and set the parking brake when I'm done.

But also I should say - I may have found something I overlooked. During the course of my trial and error, I wasn't consciously checking the clearance between the underside of the belts and the belt guide. I just ran home during my lunch because I coudn't stop wondering. Sure enough, my guide was in direct contact with the bottom of the belts. I have a feeling this was contributing to my issues, but at this point my hopes aren't getting any higher.


----------



## g-man

@crussell post some pictures, maybe we could help. I don't have experience with the 220c. Someone in the past had issues with the pulleys not being in the same plane.


----------



## TonyC

@crussell

I've been keeping my eye on your issue because I'm in the middle of an overhaul and rebuild myself.

Take a look at the drive engagement level and how much throw it has. In this parts diagram, item #12 is what I'm talking about. It appears to be attached to the drive lever (#17) with a set screw (#10). If you don't have full throw on this movement, you might not reach full engagement. I expect the full release is because the engine is now too far back. It's possible that the set screw and arm (#12) have slipped (due to excessive pressure on the lever by the operator) to where the cable is not being fully pulled on engagement. If this is correct, you could move your engine forward a little to stop the creep.

I would release the set screw, find full extension. Be careful to action the driver level and bail properly, there is a lockout that you have to adjust for.

I'd rip mine apart and look further (removed my engine last night), but can't get to it right now.

Cheers!

Tony


----------



## crussell

@TonyC This is a great thought!

I do notice that when I throw the drive lever forward, at the point where it "catches" in the mechanism, there is additional throw/slop left in the lever. I can actually push it down further and feel the belts engage more. I'd assume the perfect setting is when it catches at the very end of the throw.


----------



## TonyC

@crussell

Curiosity killed the Cat. I pulled the handlebar cover off, and found an old wasp mud nest.

From what I can tell, you want to adjust for full pull on the cable at the point the arm (#12) latches on the bail keeper (#6). If the lever arm (#12) hits the stop screw (#16) I think you've gone too far.

So, I would put some slack in the cable by loosening (#15). Then put the lever in full forward until the arm (#12) latches onto the bail keeper (#6). Then I would loosen the set bolt (#10) and tension the cable by rotating the arm (#12) as far rearward as possible without it rotating up. Tighten the set bolt (#10). Then re-tension the cable (#15). I think this would give you maximum throw on the cable.

I would double check the spring at the bottom of the cable to make sure you have enough return action when the lever is released.

That's the best I've got right now.

Tony


----------



## TonyC

Well, no such luck. it is indeed a set bolt (#10) configuration, but the arm (#12) that the cable attaches to is not independent of the latch that locks to the bail keeper (#6).

I think you can still try to get maximum travel out of the top adjustments to help your situation.


----------



## crussell

@TonyC I noticed that as well last night when turned some wrenches on mine. I ended up getting both my 260 & 220 pretty dang close. I'm happy with it. Unfortunately it get's dark here around 5:00 so I didn't have a good opportunity to test them outside other than up and down the driveway.


----------



## TulsaFan

Anyone have a good solution to free a seized/rusted speed link? I attempted to remove the mounting hardware on the ends, but it does not allow enough room for it to be removed from the storage position.

I could drill out the pin, but if I can't get it operational due to rust...I may just take a hacksaw to it.

This photo is from @walk1355's mower. My garage floor is not nearly that fancy unless you like concrete!


----------



## TonyC

This topic has pushed me over the edge, and now my 220SL is in pieces and parts. 

An overhaul thread in the making.



@crussell, good to hear it might be better now. :thumbup:

Cheers!


----------



## TonyC

TulsaFan said:


> I could drill out the pin, but if I can't get it operational due to rust...I may just take a hacksaw to it.


NO! Please don't do that!

I would shoot some Penetrating spray all around the slide. Let it sit, and then use a punch or driver directly on the end and some lite tapping to break the rust free.


----------



## TonyC

Here's what the innards look like. Good opportunity for some waterproof greese.


----------



## TulsaFan

TonyC said:


> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> I could drill out the pin, but if I can't get it operational due to rust...I may just take a hacksaw to it.
> 
> 
> 
> NO! Please don't do that!
> 
> I would shoot some Penetrating spray all around the slide. Let it sit, and then use a punch or driver directly on the end and some lite tapping to break the rust free.
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, your suggestion was the first thing that I tried.  Perhaps, I should do more rounds of it?

To make the story more frustrating, I ordered (2) replacements off of ebay. The box shows up with with a hole in the corner and no products. :lol:


----------



## TonyC

Often a sharp short smack is what is needed to break rust free on a sliding joint.

If you're going to cut something, consult the parts list and cut the cheapest item.


----------



## crussell

@TonyC Hey that's how both of my JD's looked just a few weeks ago!


----------



## joeker

Hey all.. Need some help. I'm thinking about making an offer for a 220c I found locally. How bad is the condition of this reel and roller? Is it something easily fixed?


----------



## TonyC

crussell said:


> @TonyC Hey that's how both of my JD's looked just a few weeks ago!


Well, that was a few hours ago.

Now...


----------



## walk1355

joeker said:


> Hey all.. Need some help. I'm thinking about making an offer for a 220c I found locally. How bad is the condition of this reel and roller? Is it something easily fixed?


The roller looks fine. Probably just surface rust. 
It's a little tougher to tell on the reel, but it could just be surface rust as well. Have the guy cut some grass with it for 15 minutes and then see what it looks like.


----------



## TonyC

Soliciting any and all advice on how to get this nut off. Service manual says Axle Sprocket Retaining Nut Torque 80lb-ft. That and a little rust has me worried about keeping a wrench on it. I put some Penetrating oil and a torch to it yesterday. It's being stubborn.


----------



## g-man

I tried last year. After two long cheater bars, I gave up. I was planning to try again this winter.


----------



## crussell

Silly question, it's not reverse thread is it?

Are you having trouble holding the sprocket/shaft? Or do you have it secured and just are worried about applying too much force?


----------



## TonyC

@g-man I hear that. I'm looking at the sprocket thinking, you're not getting replaced are you?

@crussell I replied to your possible reverse threaded comment over in my new Restoration thread.


----------



## driver_7

Those of you who mow around fence lines or obstacles, what is your technique in dealing with the transport axles?


----------



## g-man

Stay away from the fence or obstacles. Another option is to cut the transport axles.


----------



## driver_7

g-man said:


> Stay away from the fence or obstacles.


 :lol: I should've seen that coming.


----------



## g-man

The other option is to remove the fence. Or use a landscape blade. Or add landscape shrubs/mulch area around the fence.


----------



## Kballen11

Do they make verticutter attachments for the walk behinds? If so, could someone attach a link?


----------



## driver_7

What could cause the oil to freely flow out of the dipstick tube on a 220A? Gas leaking into oil reservoir? The mower sat in a vehicle for about 20 hours while I drove it home, it was pitched slightly forward, but not anymore so than when it's on its kickstand.

Has anyone had any luck replacing this? It looks like it's some sort of a rivet attachment: 


I think the shield is rusted through and the arm that holds it is now loose, causing the shield to wiggle.



I think the leak that it developed from the dipstick area is causing it to rust around that attachment point and now it's no longer secured. The shield runs around $200+ on green parts.

Any pointers or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!


----------



## Ware

717driver said:


> Those of you who mow around fence lines or obstacles, what is your technique in dealing with the transport axles?


Landscape Blade :thumbup:


----------



## TheTurfTamer

717driver said:


> Those of you who mow around fence lines or obstacles, what is your technique in dealing with the transport axles?


Hacksaw....


----------



## TonyC

717driver said:


> What could cause the oil to freely flow out of the dipstick tube on a 220A? Gas leaking into oil reservoir? The mower sat in a vehicle for about 20 hours while I drove it home, it was pitched slightly forward, but not anymore so than when it's on its kickstand.
> 
> Has anyone had any luck replacing this? It looks like it's some sort of a rivet attachment:
> 
> 
> I think the shield is rusted through and the arm that holds it is now loose, causing the shield to wiggle.
> 
> 
> 
> I think the leak that it developed from the dipstick area is causing it to rust around that attachment point and now it's no longer secured. The shield runs around $200+ on green parts.
> 
> Any pointers or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!


I'm a little confused by the question, "What would cause the oil to freely flow out of the dipstick tube..." Do you mean the Oil fill and Dipstick tube? Or are you referring to the oil drain plug in the picture. Which kinda looks like it has a wet oil area.

It is a Rivet. Part number: M112799

At $224 (looked it up), I would "renew" the shield with some sanding Bondo, and fresh paint.


----------



## driver_7

TonyC said:


> 717driver said:
> 
> 
> 
> What could cause the oil to freely flow out of the dipstick tube on a 220A? Gas leaking into oil reservoir? The mower sat in a vehicle for about 20 hours while I drove it home, it was pitched slightly forward, but not anymore so than when it's on its kickstand.
> 
> Has anyone had any luck replacing this? It looks like it's some sort of a rivet attachment:
> 
> 
> I think the shield is rusted through and the arm that holds it is now loose, causing the shield to wiggle.
> 
> 
> 
> I think the leak that it developed from the dipstick area is causing it to rust around that attachment point and now it's no longer secured. The shield runs around $200+ on green parts.
> 
> Any pointers or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a little confused by the question, "What would cause the oil to freely flow out of the dipstick tube..." Do you mean the Oil fill and Dipstick tube? Or are you referring to the oil drain plug in the picture. Which kinda looks like it has a wet oil area.
> 
> It is a Rivet. Part number: M112799
> 
> At $224 (looked it up), I would "renew" the shield with some sanding Bondo, and fresh paint.
Click to expand...

That's correct, the Oil fill and Dipstick tube is where it was coming from when loosened. I discussed it today with the seller and he said it's better with the transport wheels off, it tends to lean forward too much with the wheels on.

The rivet wouldn't hold through bondo, would it? I saw the price of that shield and definitely wanted to try to save it before just forking money over.


----------



## driver_7

Aawickham78 said:


> 717driver said:
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who mow around fence lines or obstacles, what is your technique in dealing with the transport axles?
> 
> 
> 
> Hacksaw....
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, I think I like this idea the best!


----------



## SNOWBOB11

I was reading the manual for the 220e and it says the indicator light on the handle bar cover is supposed to flash on a couple times when you start the engine. I've started the motor several times and at no time does the light ever come on. I'm thinking it's either something I'm doing wrong or that the bulb is blown. Anyone else ever have this issue and was it just a blown bulb or something else in the electric system?


----------



## g-man

Can you get the reel to move? When I turn mine on, the light does turn on and then off.


----------



## SNOWBOB11

g-man said:


> Can you get the reel to move? When I turn mine on, the light does turn on and then off.


Yes, the reel turns on and spins but no light. I was messing around with the different FOC settings so I know. Everything on the mower works as it should except for the light. As I understand it from the manual it is supposed to light up when the engine starts up but at no point does the light ever come on. I guess it's not a big deal but if there are any issues with the electrical of the mower at any point in the future I wouldn't know being the light flashes determine what the issue would be. I'll try to jiggle the wire tomorrow and see if it comes on. If not I might try and see if I can get a replacement bulb.


----------



## driver_7

Please forgive me if this is too much of a new-guy question, I removed the upper reel shield from the 220A today and got a good look at the reel.

Would this be able to be backlapped to get me through the start of the season? I am trying to see a relief in the grind, but I'm not sure I see anything. It seems the design of the reel has a cutout along the length of it. I recognized the cutout from @Pete1313's overhaul of a JD in the past.


----------



## Ware

717driver said:


> I am trying to see a relief in the grind, but I'm not sure I see anything.


Agree. A relief grind would look like this:


----------



## Jrich

Just an FYI there is a Weeks Farm Machinery Auction ending on February 20th. There are a ton of John Deere Reel Mowers up for auction.


----------



## Brackin4au

Jrich said:


> Just an FYI there is a Weeks Farm Machinery Auction ending on February 20th. There are a ton of John Deere Reel Mowers up for auction.


Keeping a close eye haha


----------



## walk1355

I am looking at cutting off the transport axles on my 260sl. From what I've read here it seems the best way to do this is to use an angle grinder.

I have an arsenal of tools, but don't own an angle grinder and honestly don't know much about them. Did some research this morning and now I'm not sure why I don't own one as they have so many uses. I am considering purchasing this Dewalt angle grinder along with some cutting discs to get the job done.

Anything I should be aware of? Is there a better way to remove the transport axles?

I'm guessing I should make sure the fuel cap is on so a spark doesn't ignite the fuel, or should I drain the fuel completely (this seems overly cautious).


----------



## TheTurfTamer

I used my Sawzall to cut mine off and it worked great!


----------



## driver_7

I think it was @Redtenchu early on in this thread that used a hacksaw and some elbow grease.

I'm thinking about doing the same. I need the clearance to get through our gate.


----------



## Redtenchu

walk1355 said:


> I am looking at cutting off the transport axles on my 260sl. From what I've read here it seems the best way to do this is to use an angle grinder.
> 
> I have an arsenal of tools, but don't own an angle grinder and honestly don't know much about them. Did some research this morning and now I'm not sure why I don't own one as they have so many uses. I am considering purchasing this Dewalt angle grinder along with some cutting discs to get the job done.
> 
> Anything I should be aware of? Is there a better way to remove the transport axles?
> 
> I'm guessing I should make sure the fuel cap is on so a spark doesn't ignite the fuel, or should I drain the fuel completely (this seems overly cautious).


A basic hacksaw will work. Leave yourself 0.5-1 inch beyond the last threaded area, that will give you something to grab if you ever need to disassemble the ground drive assembly.


----------



## SNOWBOB11

I just used a angel grinder to cut off the transport axles on my mower. It's a good tool for the job and a good tool to have around. Took 3 minutes a side to hack them off. I then used a couple grinding disks and a file to finish off the job and clean up the cut so it wasn't sharp. No need to drain the gas or anything.


----------



## walk1355

Thanks for the advice everyone. I purchased the Dewalt and within 10 minutes of getting home with it both transport axles have been cut off. I followed the advice of Red and left a little bit stick out for something to grab if I ever need to rebuild the drive assembly.


----------



## driver_7

My new grass catcher arrived today for the 220A and at first it didn't fit. The part number matched the parts catalog, the catcher looked right, but it just wouldn't sit down all the way on the posts. Then I notice it's sitting on the steel bar that spans the width of the mower, above the front roller. That piece always seemed off to me:



So I took it off. 


The catcher fits perfectly now:


I am stumped as to why that bar was installed. Maybe it was for a custom attachment a prior owner used? It didn't seem to have any structural impact now that it's removed and sitting in the garage. I guess if it shakes itself to pieces during the first mow then I'll know why it was there.

Anyone have any ideas what it was for or have you seen one before?

Thank you!!


----------



## robbybobby

Maybe added weight?


----------



## mantnyh

Finally got my grass chatcher! A lot bigger than I thought it would be. Now I got to change the belts and brake band and I'll be ready for some cuttin'


----------



## StormTrooper86

mantnyh said:


> Finally got my grass chatcher! A lot bigger than I thought it would be. Now I got to change the belts and brake band and I'll be ready for some cuttin'


@mantnyh where did your order that grass catcher? I need one for my 220sl


----------



## driver_7

StormTrooper86 said:


> mantnyh said:
> 
> 
> 
> Finally got my grass chatcher! A lot bigger than I thought it would be. Now I got to change the belts and brake band and I'll be ready for some cuttin'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @mantnyh where did your order that grass catcher? I need one for my 220sl
Click to expand...

Responded to wrong post. Answered below.

Edited for me being an idiot.


----------



## g-man

^ +1 to greenfarmparts. Their physical store is 5miles from me and all the guys are awesome to work with.


----------



## mantnyh

@StormTrooper86 I got it from green farm parts. Not sure why @717driver is answering for me? Anyway, you don't need $199 for free shipping either. The grass catcher was $113. I ordered an older model number which they still have. It fits perfectly and was $50 cheaper. They weren't very responsive via chat or email, but my order came quickly. So I'd give them an A for cost and shipping and a C for communication.


----------



## driver_7

mantnyh said:


> @StormTrooper86 I got it from green farm parts. Not sure why @717driver is answering for me? Anyway, you don't need $199 for free shipping either. The grass catcher was $113. I ordered an older model number which they still have. It fits perfectly and was $50 cheaper. They weren't very responsive via chat or email, but my order came quickly. So I'd give them an A for cost and shipping and a C for communication.


Sorry bud. I was early morning browsing and thought it was my own picture I posted earlier with my new grass catcher.


----------



## NewLawnJon

I just signed a purchase agreement to get a 260C from a Golf Supplier that is selling them for a course when their new JD mowers come in. I am guessing in May/June when I get it I will be using this to learn how to use and maintain it.

It sounds like the course is using them this spring so it should be ready to mow when I get it.


----------



## Pete1313

Congrats @NewLawnJon on the purchase. Looking forward to seeing it in action!


----------



## walk1355

Does anyone know how difficult it is to add a light to a 260sl? Is there a non oem option that is cheaper? I'd like to ad a light to my mower and don't really know where to start.


----------



## TonyC

walk1355 said:


> Does anyone know how difficult it is to add a light to a 260sl? Is there a non oem option that is cheaper? I'd like to ad a light to my mower and don't really know where to start.


Start with the Search box above, "LED light" would be a good words to use.

You will quickly find that there is a LED light on page 21 in this thread.


----------



## NewLawnJon

Pete1313 said:


> Congrats @NewLawnJon on the purchase. Looking forward to seeing it in action!


That makes two of us. I have a feeling the first few scalps of the yard will be painful, but worth it.


----------



## walk1355

TonyC said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how difficult it is to add a light to a 260sl? Is there a non oem option that is cheaper? I'd like to ad a light to my mower and don't really know where to start.
> 
> 
> 
> Start with the Search box above, "LED light" would be a good words to use.
> 
> You will quickly find that there is a LED light on page 21 in this thread.
Click to expand...

That appears to be a post on how to modify a incadescent light into an LED, which is not what my post is asking how to do. I am starting with nothing. Would like to add a light to my 260sl. I have read through every post in the JD thread and didn't see anyone posting about what I am asking about which is why I asked if someone knew of a reference somewhere else...

I also used google and couldn't find anything, but I didn't read through the entire 2.5 million pages of results either.


----------



## g-man

I think there are a couple of options. The expensive one is buy the light from JD. The cheapest is to get a battery recharged LED lights with a clamp from Amazon. I barely used my light (late fall), that I think the battery option is not bad as long as you remember to charge them.

I think mastermech posted on how to wire lights on the Toro or Jake. You will need regulate the voltage/amps.


----------



## g-man

I found a thread from Connor, a how to with ward. 

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=164


----------



## KCBen

walk1355 said:


> Does anyone know how difficult it is to add a light to a 260sl? Is there a non oem option that is cheaper? I'd like to ad a light to my mower and don't really know where to start.


I picked up this light from Autozone for $20 and it was a great. This mower had the factory light mount but the light was rusted. It was simple to splice on. Not sure if you have one, but lots of the auction mowers have the mount & wiring already there but no light so this is a simple fix.


----------



## KCBen




----------



## kur1j

Aawickham78 said:


> 717driver said:
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you who mow around fence lines or obstacles, what is your technique in dealing with the transport axles?
> 
> 
> 
> Hacksaw....
Click to expand...

Once you cut them off, I'm assuming if for some reason you do have to replace them it's basically impossible other than maybe welding them back on?


----------



## TheTurfTamer

I was able to unscrew one of mine, The other one, I sawed off. If you cut it off flush, you will not be able to even weld it back on.


----------



## joeker

How much play is there suppose to be in the handle? I swear mine bends to the point where I think it'll come off.

I'm having an issue with my bail/travel clutch engagement. The clutch won't disengage when I take my hands off the bail. I'm thinking it may have to do with the bail spring. Any ideas??


----------



## mantnyh

joeker said:


> How much play is there suppose to be in the handle? I swear mine bends to the point where I think it'll come off.
> 
> I'm having an issue with my bail/travel clutch engagement. The clutch won't disengage when I take my hands off the bail. I'm thinking it may have to do with the bail spring. Any ideas??


Mine was doing that and I adjusted the bail over and over. My belts we're roached and I just changed them...low and behold...the bail now operates correctly. The loose, worn, belts we're keeping it from disengaging when I released it. Maybe check your belts?


----------



## joeker

mantnyh said:


> joeker said:
> 
> 
> 
> How much play is there suppose to be in the handle? I swear mine bends to the point where I think it'll come off.
> 
> I'm having an issue with my bail/travel clutch engagement. The clutch won't disengage when I take my hands off the bail. I'm thinking it may have to do with the bail spring. Any ideas??
> 
> 
> 
> Mine was doing that and I adjusted the bail over and over. My belts we're roached and I just changed them...low and behold...the bail now operates correctly. The loose, worn, belts we're keeping it from disengaging when I released it. Maybe check your belts?
Click to expand...

@mantnyh Will do. I did notice there's not much slack in the belt.


----------



## TonyC

Some are OEM parts only guys, which is great. Just pointing out that there is a a more economical replacement option. Rock Auto is selling their remaining inventory on clearance.

Gates 4L230W 1/2" x 23" belt

Note that JD sells this part as "matched" pairs. No guarantee that you'll get matched sets from RockAuto.


----------



## walk1355

TonyC said:


> Some are OEM parts only guys, which is great. Just pointing out that there is a a more economical replacement option. Rock Auto is selling their remaining inventory on clearance.
> 
> Gates 4L230W 1/2" x 23" belt
> 
> Note that JD sells this part as "matched" pairs. No guarantee that you'll get matched sets from RockAuto.


I bought a non-oem matched set from R&R last year. $37.20 shipped.


----------



## TonyC

walk1355 said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> Some are OEM parts only guys, which is great. Just pointing out that there is a a more economical replacement option. Rock Auto is selling their remaining inventory on clearance.
> 
> Gates 4L230W 1/2" x 23" belt
> 
> Note that JD sells this part as "matched" pairs. No guarantee that you'll get matched sets from RockAuto.
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a non-oem matched set from R&R last year. $37.20 shipped.
Click to expand...

Right and the RockAuto option is $3.76 per. They have 5 of these remaining because they are closeout.


----------



## walk1355

TonyC said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> Some are OEM parts only guys, which is great. Just pointing out that there is a a more economical replacement option. Rock Auto is selling their remaining inventory on clearance.
> 
> Gates 4L230W 1/2" x 23" belt
> 
> Note that JD sells this part as "matched" pairs. No guarantee that you'll get matched sets from RockAuto.
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a non-oem matched set from R&R last year. $37.20 shipped.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Right and the RockAuto option is $3.76 per. They have 5 of these remaining because they are closeout.
Click to expand...

@TonyC I'm pretty sure it is critical to have a matched set as they need to be the same size for the mower to operate correctly. Some others can chime in here, as I'm not sure, but I think you risk damaging your mower if you don't run a matched set.


----------



## joeker

mantnyh said:


> joeker said:
> 
> 
> 
> How much play is there suppose to be in the handle? I swear mine bends to the point where I think it'll come off.
> 
> I'm having an issue with my bail/travel clutch engagement. The clutch won't disengage when I take my hands off the bail. I'm thinking it may have to do with the bail spring. Any ideas??
> 
> 
> 
> Mine was doing that and I adjusted the bail over and over. My belts we're roached and I just changed them...low and behold...the bail now operates correctly. The loose, worn, belts we're keeping it from disengaging when I released it. Maybe check your belts?
Click to expand...

@mantnyh do you remember which belts they were?


----------



## driver_7

How bad was the engine reinstall after swapping the belts? I thought about changing mine out, opened the tech manual and it read "Step 1). Remove Engine." I just closed the book, maybe later. :lol:


----------



## walk1355

717driver said:


> How bad was the engine reinstall after swapping the belts? I thought about changing mine out, opened the tech manual and it read "Step 1). Remove Engine." I just closed the book, maybe later. :lol:


The engine is only held onto the chassis/frame by 4 bolts/nuts. It's not hard at all. It is heavy though. I'd guess the engine weighs 25ish pounds. And make sure you keep it upright if it has fuel in it. Fuel will come out where the cap is as it's a vented cap.


----------



## TonyC

walk1355 said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a non-oem matched set from R&R last year. $37.20 shipped.
> 
> 
> 
> Right and the RockAuto option is $3.76 per. They have 5 of these remaining because they are closeout.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @TonyC I'm pretty sure it is critical to have a matched set as they need to be the same size for the mower to operate correctly. Some others can chime in here, as I'm not sure, but I think you risk damaging your mower if you don't run a matched set.
Click to expand...

In the best Cliff Clavin impersonation I can muster,... "It's a little known fact, that..."

I did a little research on this topic of Matched Belts, and there are also some alignment fun facts in here too. Enjoy!

Companies like Gates manufacture belts to industry standard tolerances. They also define standards such as Matched set, and thankfully many of these standards are published for the public, we the consumers.

Let's start here with a published statement from Gates on their standards.

_"Oftentimes we are asked to provide belt lengths with tolerances less than those specified by the various standards
organizations, i.e., RMA/MPTA, SAE, ASAE, ISO. There are certain belt types that* lend themselves to a manufacturing tolerance tighter than the published standard*.
...
Under normal circumstances, we inspect our products using the MIL Standard 105 which is a random lot sampling method. With tight tolerances, we must 100% inspect and throw away many pieces that meet normal standards. This of course increases our labor costs and scrap and defect cost. These cost increases must then be reflected in the price of the product to the customer. The question then arises: *Why don't we publish our manufacturing tolerances that are tighter than standard?*_

This reads that Gates manufactures many of their belts to a tighter tolerance than standards. A basic V-drive belt is not a difficult product to manufacture. Also, they use the Military Standard 105 for product testing which defines using a lot sampling approach. A military accepted standard, I can live with that.

_Q. What determines if a set of belts match?

A. Horsepower requirements in many applications call for a multibelt drive. RMA standards IP-20 and IP-22 specify permissible length variations, ... For example, all belts up to 63 in. long in a set *must not vary more than 0.15 in*. from the longest to the shortest belt. If they exceed this limit, the load will not be evenly distributed and belts will wear out faster._

For matched sets, our belts are only 23", that's pretty significant. I think that manufacturing to a tighter tolerance than standard probably puts their belts inside of this 0.15 in, thus all of their belts could be considered matched.

_Q. What is the proper procedure for tensioning a drive?

A. First, consider another question: Why is proper tension necessary? *V-belts use friction between the belt sidewalls and sides of the sheave to transmit power.* By contrast, synchronous belts use the engagement of teeth to transmit power.

Over-tensioning either a V-belt or synchronous belt causes excessive bearing load, reduced belt life, and excessive
pulley wear. Under-tensioning a V-belt causes belt slippage, whereas under-tensioning a synchronous belt can lead
to severe tooth wear and even ratcheting (jumping teeth). *To tension a V-belt, apply the lowest amount of tension that prevents the belt from slipping under full load.* _

Further reading in this area explains that heat is the enemy of belt life. Keep the friction and heat down and it's a good thing for the belt and the bearings. This is likely the design reason that we have two belts on these mowers, thus reducing the required tension to achieve the friction necessary to prevent slippage under full load.

_Q. How much misalignment can a V-drive belt handle?

A. *V-belts operate at up to 6 deg of misalignment without rollover (lateral instability), misalignment should not
exceed 1/2 deg (1/10in. per foot of span) for optimum belt life*. Joined V-belts should have no more than 1/2 deg of
misalignment for best performance and must be carefully aligned._

That's a pretty large offset that the belt can handle. It's important to note that the lateral stress may negatively impact the shaft bearings. So it sounds like a good idea to line things up the best you can.

References:
- Gates Technical Information Library Belt Tolerances 
- Gates Technical Information Library TIPS ON SELECTING AND APPLYING DRIVE BELTS
- Mil Standard 105

So I stand by my statement. I think that you can use non-OEM belts in this application and not mechanically destroy bearings, pulleys or shafts. Well, you might fry two $4 belts.


----------



## walk1355

TonyC said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> Right and the RockAuto option is $3.76 per. They have 5 of these remaining because they are closeout.
> 
> 
> 
> @TonyC I'm pretty sure it is critical to have a matched set as they need to be the same size for the mower to operate correctly. Some others can chime in here, as I'm not sure, but I think you risk damaging your mower if you don't run a matched set.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> In the best Cliff Clavin impersonation I can muster,... "It's a little known fact, that..."
> 
> I did a little research on this topic of Matched Belts, and there are also some alignment fun facts in here too. Enjoy!
> 
> Companies like Gates manufacture belts to industry standard tolerances. They also define standards such as Matched set, and thankfully many of these standards are published for the public, we the consumers.
> 
> Let's start here with a published statement from Gates on their standards.
> 
> _"Oftentimes we are asked to provide belt lengths with tolerances less than those specified by the various standards
> organizations, i.e., RMA/MPTA, SAE, ASAE, ISO. There are certain belt types that* lend themselves to a manufacturing tolerance tighter than the published standard*.
> ...
> Under normal circumstances, we inspect our products using the MIL Standard 105 which is a random lot sampling method. With tight tolerances, we must 100% inspect and throw away many pieces that meet normal standards. This of course increases our labor costs and scrap and defect cost. These cost increases must then be reflected in the price of the product to the customer. The question then arises: *Why don't we publish our manufacturing tolerances that are tighter than standard?*_
> 
> This reads that Gates manufactures many of their belts to a tighter tolerance than standards. A basic V-drive belt is not a difficult product to manufacture. Also, they use the Military Standard 105 for product testing which defines using a lot sampling approach. A military accepted standard, I can live with that.
> 
> _Q. What determines if a set of belts match?
> 
> A. Horsepower requirements in many applications call for a multibelt drive. RMA standards IP-20 and IP-22 specify permissible length variations, ... For example, all belts up to 63 in. long in a set *must not vary more than 0.15 in*. from the longest to the shortest belt. If they exceed this limit, the load will not be evenly distributed and belts will wear out faster._
> 
> For matched sets, our belts are only 23", that's pretty significant. I think that manufacturing to a tighter tolerance than standard probably puts their belts inside of this 0.15 in, thus all of their belts could be considered matched.
> 
> _Q. What is the proper procedure for tensioning a drive?
> 
> A. First, consider another question: Why is proper tension necessary? *V-belts use friction between the belt sidewalls and sides of the sheave to transmit power.* By contrast, synchronous belts use the engagement of teeth to transmit power.
> 
> Over-tensioning either a V-belt or synchronous belt causes excessive bearing load, reduced belt life, and excessive
> pulley wear. Under-tensioning a V-belt causes belt slippage, whereas under-tensioning a synchronous belt can lead
> to severe tooth wear and even ratcheting (jumping teeth). *To tension a V-belt, apply the lowest amount of tension that prevents the belt from slipping under full load.* _
> 
> Further reading in this area explains that heat is the enemy of belt life. Keep the friction and heat down and it's a good thing for the belt and the bearings. This is likely the design reason that we have two belts on these mowers, thus reducing the required tension to achieve the friction necessary to prevent slippage under full load.
> 
> _Q. How much misalignment can a V-drive belt handle?
> 
> A. *V-belts operate at up to 6 deg of misalignment without rollover (lateral instability), misalignment should not
> exceed 1/2 deg (1/10in. per foot of span) for optimum belt life*. Joined V-belts should have no more than 1/2 deg of
> misalignment for best performance and must be carefully aligned._
> 
> That's a pretty large offset that the belt can handle. It's important to note that the lateral stress may negatively impact the shaft bearings. So it sounds like a good idea to line things up the best you can.
> 
> References:
> - Gates Technical Information Library Belt Tolerances
> - Gates Technical Information Library TIPS ON SELECTING AND APPLYING DRIVE BELTS
> - Mil Standard 105
> 
> So I stand by my statement. I think that you can use non-OEM belts in this application and not mechanically destroy bearings, pulleys or shafts. Well, you might fry two $4 belts.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't trust this information, as it is provided by the manufacturer of the belts. I'd rather rely on the manufacturer of the equipment I am servicing, in this case John Deere. Just *MY OPINION*

You may have missed it, but my earlier post said I purchased non-OEM belts. I think it's perfectly acceptable to buy non-OEM matched belts for a John Deere Mower. I would recommend a matched set which is what the manufacturer spec calls for.

I'd rather spend $37.20 on a matched set than spend $8 on belts that may fail. In the grand scheme of things, $29.20 is worth the time saved on replacing failed belts. In this case, and in *MY OPINION* time > money.

Again, just *MY OPINION*! Thanks!


----------



## walk1355

walk1355 said:


> Does anyone know how difficult it is to add a light to a 260sl? Is there a non oem option that is cheaper? I'd like to ad a light to my mower and don't really know where to start.


Wanted to bring this back up. Contrary to the belief of some on here, I did use the search function of this forum and I used my best google fu' and came up empty.

Currently my mower has no light at all. So I'd be starting from scratch and would rather not spend $400 for the OEM light kit.

Can anyone recommend a rechargeable light (LED) that they have used for something like this? This would potentially eliminate the need to wire anything up and could be mounted wherever the user wanted.


----------



## TonyC

It's a little known fact that the *Gates* *INVENTED* the V-Belt. -Cliff Clavin


----------



## mantnyh

Wow, I missed a lot during work today, ha ha.

I got mine from Greenfarmparts and they were $33.29. Not bad. They are part number AMT2800.

You also don't have to remove the engine. Simply loosen the four bolts and slide the engine forward and then rotate it clockwise slightly to disengage the belts. The hardest part was getting the proper clearance between the belt pulley guide and the belts so that the bail will engage properly and the mower won't walk. I bet I tightened and loosened mine at least five times.

I started to do a video of the replacement, but I am no youtube guru.


----------



## TonyC

In other News, the March Weeks Auction lots are being posted! Several JDs in there already.

@walk1355 Have you tried a Headlamp? They are great because they are always looking where you are, and they are bright, and some even rechargeable.

You can trust these guys. https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-headlamp/
https://sectionhiker.com/sectionhiker-gear-guide/10-best-rechargeable-headlamps/

I like my Black Diamond it's very nice, and bright. Less than $40 too. :thumbup:


----------



## g-man

g-man said:


> I found a thread from Connor, a how to with ward.
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=164


@walk1355 did you look at this thread?


----------



## joeker

mantnyh said:


> Wow, I missed a lot during work today, ha ha.
> 
> I got mine from Greenfarmparts and they were $33.29. Not bad. They are part number AMT2800.
> 
> You also don't have to remove the engine. Simply loosen the four bolts and slide the engine forward and then rotate it clockwise slightly to disengage the belts. The hardest part was getting the proper clearance between the belt pulley guide and the belts so that the bail will engage properly and the mower won't walk. I bet I tightened and loosened mine at least five times.
> 
> I started to do a video of the replacement, but I am no youtube guru.


@mantnyh Pm me the vid. I'll make you YouTube famous :lol:

Edit: Maybe I missed something. Is there a reason why it comes in a set of two? From the JD website, there is only one V-belt for the 220 E-Cut, part #TCU25209


----------



## joeker

joeker said:


> mantnyh said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wow, I missed a lot during work today, ha ha.
> 
> I got mine from Greenfarmparts and they were $33.29. Not bad. They are part number AMT2800.
> 
> You also don't have to remove the engine. Simply loosen the four bolts and slide the engine forward and then rotate it clockwise slightly to disengage the belts. The hardest part was getting the proper clearance between the belt pulley guide and the belts so that the bail will engage properly and the mower won't walk. I bet I tightened and loosened mine at least five times.
> 
> I started to do a video of the replacement, but I am no youtube guru.
> 
> 
> 
> Pm me the vid. I'll make you YouTube famous
Click to expand...

Can someone take a picture of their 220 E-cut with their handle cover off? Specifically looking for the travel clutch cable/lever engagement as mine seems to have fallen out and when I try to realign it, the cable just bends. I've read through the tech manual, and a simple cleaning might fix it but I'd like to rule out all options by having a closeup to compare to


----------



## Brackin4au

So while loading up my mower today to take to get sharpened I noticed this.... the handle bar is broken at the bend before it connects to the lower frame. I noticed it was loose the other day but didn't have time to look into it. It still functions okay, but is just loose. Any ideas on what I should do? Maybe have someone tack weld it back together (I'll ask the golf course maintenance guy today if he can do that)? Or do I need to just buy a new handlebar? ($207  )


----------



## asagers

TulsaFan said:


> Anyone have a good solution to free a seized/rusted speed link? I attempted to remove the mounting hardware on the ends, but it does not allow enough room for it to be removed from the storage position.
> 
> I could drill out the pin, but if I can't get it operational due to rust...I may just take a hacksaw to it.
> 
> This photo is from @walk1355's mower. My garage floor is not nearly that fancy unless you like concrete!


Were you able to get this fixed? I have the same issue with mine. I've tried the penetrating spray, a torch, and a lot of whacks with a screwdriver to no avail.


----------



## TulsaFan

@asagers Yes, I ended up using a 3# hammer and a punch to get it off. It required more strikes than I would have imagined!

Just don't hold back...Your thumb will heal eventually!


----------



## g-man

@joeker I was planning on moving the mowers out from cold storage and placing the snowblower in the back of the garage, but the weather ppl are saying there is snow on the way. Do you still need the picture?


----------



## Brackin4au

So I took my mower to the local golf course after talking to a guy who is going to sharpen it for me. Super nice guy, very experienced with reel mowers it seemed. He also said he would weld the handlebar back together for me... score!


----------



## Bmossin

This forum will be so helpful for the 180B and 180C I'm getting this weekend.


----------



## joeker

g-man said:


> @joeker I was planning on moving the mowers out from cold storage and placing the snowblower in the back of the garage, but the weather ppl are saying there is snow on the way. Do you still need the picture?


@g-man I would definitely appreciate it if it's not too much trouble. I mangled up my travel clutch cable pretty bad. I think I figured out what's wrong with it though--the engine throttle lever swivel is seized. I wish I kept my P20 so I'd have a gx120 to compare it to


----------



## joeker

So I finally got to where I'm going to backlap my 220E this weekend. I started by adjusting the reel to bedknife via the two adjustment knobs. I've pretty much backed out one knob as far as it can go and the reel didn't touch the bedknife. I was able to get contact by backing out the knob on the other end of the reel. Would getting a new bedknife help at all?(this one is pretty worn down and it's a cheap part anyway) Or am I at the point where I need to look at buying a replacement reel? I think I read somewhere that once the reel diameter hits 4.8", I can flip am eccentric adjustment to extend the life of the reel.


----------



## Don_Bass

Wats Up Guys I Have A John Deere 180B, Looking Too Purchase A New Bed Knife For IT, Any Recommendations?


----------



## Brackin4au

I'm not sure about the 180, but I recently purchased a 260SL and plan to get the fairway cut bedknife. It is thicker and should handle the yard better at the HOC I'm planning for this year.


----------



## SantiCazorla

Just to add on to what brackin4au mentioned about thicker bed knifes. The 260 comes in 3 sizes, tournament- super thin, standard- medium, and fairway- thick. I'm not positive about the 180, you would have to check, but I know the 220 comes in 4 sizes tournament, standard, fairway and high fairway. So basically it all depends on your target hoc but if you're not planning on going sub .5" I would get a high fairway blade.


----------



## SantiCazorla

Here is a link to all OEM bed knife options for JD mowers

https://www.deere.com/en_US/parts/parts_by_industry/golf/bed_knives/bedknives.page


----------



## driver_7

I just purchased a fairway bedknife and new reel from R&R. A little less expensive than OEM and came by recommendation from others on here.


----------



## g-man

@joeker the knobs work together to move the bedknife, so you need to move both of them. Also since it is on a pivot, you need to screw them in (clockwise) to get the knife away from the reel.

The reel looks in good shape. It looks like a 11 or 14 blade one. The knife is a thin one, so I assume this was used for mowing greens.

Replacing the knife is fairly easy. Replacing reels is more involved. I did a rebuild thread last winter.


----------



## joeker

SantiCazorla said:


> Just to add on to what brackin4au mentioned about thicker bed knifes. The 260 comes in 3 sizes, tournament- super thin, standard- medium, and fairway- thick. I'm not positive about the 180, you would have to check, but I know the 220 comes in 4 sizes tournament, standard, fairway and high fairway. So basically it all depends on your target hoc but if you're not planning on going sub .5" I would get a high fairway blade.


HOCs based on which bed Knife is used per JD 220 E-Cut website








HOC range based on the QA5 cutting unit tech guide.








Part numbers per the JD 220 E-Cut website


----------



## joeker

g-man said:


> @joeker the knobs work together to move the bedknife, so you need to move both of them. Also since it is on a pivot, you need to screw them in (clockwise) to get the knife away from the reel.
> 
> The reel looks in good shape. It looks like a 11 or 14 blade one. The knife is a thin one, so I assume this was used for mowing greens.
> 
> Replacing the knife is fairly easy. Replacing reels is more involved. I did a rebuild thread last winter.


@g-man do you think it's worth backlapping this bed knife just to get a nice low scalp in until I get a new bed knife? I'll probably get a new standard 3/3.2mm bedknife as I plan to cut at around .75" until I get more comfortable cutting reel low


----------



## TonyC

The bedknife is more important than the reel. Make sure it's sharp and true.

@joeker I'd scalp, then make the switch to the thick fairway bedknife. If the screws are rusted use a punch at an angle and hammer to coax them free.


----------



## joeker

TonyC said:


> The bedknife is more important than the reel. Make sure it's sharp and true.
> 
> @joeker I'd scalp, then make the switch to the thick fairway bedknife. If the screws are rusted use a punch at an angle and hammer to coax them free.


@tonyc 10-4. I actually backlapped before I could get back to this post. The bedknife was so dull, it still wouldn't cut paper. (I used a feeler gauge and adjusted the reel to bedknife gap to .0015") I guess I lucked out that the reel didn't get sharp cuz when I manually spun the reel, it caught my fingernail. Definitely need to watch out for that now that I've got an 11 blade; I never had to worry with my Tru Cut


----------



## wartee

I need to order a catcher for a 220C...does anybody happen to know if part number TCU28942 is an improvement over part number MT7026, or did JD just change part numbers? MT7026 is slightly cheaper.


----------



## g-man

@wartee per greenfarmparts, it is an update.


----------



## TulsaFan

GreenFarmParts.com is offering free shipping starting this Thursday, March 14th and going thru Sunday March 17th. This applies sitewide on all non-oversized products.

Make sure to use promo code: *SHIPONGFP* when checking out to get free shipping on your order.


----------



## Brackin4au

TulsaFan said:


> GreenFarmParts.com is offering free shipping starting this Thursday, March 14th and going thru Sunday March 17th. This applies sitewide on all non-oversized products.
> 
> Make sure to use promo code: *SHIPONGFP* when checking out to get free shipping on your order.


Good to know because I tried ordering some stuff yesterday and it said I was eligible for free shipping because I was over the $49.99 threshold. But when I was finalizing my order it suddenly added $23 for shipping. I sent a message but got no response.

I wonder if that promo code is allowed with other codes. I used 15DOLLAR like it was mentioned a while back and it took $15 off my order total. Rather have free shipping if I can only use one though.


----------



## Brackin4au

Just made my order at GFP. Apparently they were having a website issue with the free shipping that is always offered for orders over $50. After talking with them through the website chat, Joe just called me and we got it all settled over the phone. Also let me use the code 15DOLLAR that I saw on here from @TulsaFan, for another $15 off. Pretty sweet deal if anybody is looking to buy some parts.

Edit: I didn't even get the emails you mentioned @TulsaFan while parts were sitting in my "cart". I just entered the code you mentioned and it worked.


----------



## joeker

Big thanks to@TonyC and @g-man for their help. I finally got my 220 E-Cut that I purchased from the recent Weeks Auction up and running this weekend. I had to replace the handle, operator presence bail, bedknife, and backlap switch. Learning to use this mower definitely took me for a ride, but I was able to scalp my yard at 3/8"


----------



## Brackin4au

So the guy I took my mower to for sharpening, was setting the HOC for me. Said he was adjusting one side (up to approx 0.5), then attempted the other side, and it moved a couple thousands and then wouldn't go any further. He thinks it is stripped or something. I looked on greenfarmparts website and can't find anything like that part, the HOC adjustment. Anyone had this issue, or know what may be going on. And where I could get a replacement part?

I know the John Deere has the link to adjust both together, but mine is seized up in the storage position. I assume he didn't get that broke loose since he was adjusting the left and right separately.


----------



## Pete1313

@Brackin4au, check out this diagram.
https://greenfarmparts.com/parts-di...ters:_Rollers/5105050002/10505D351C0608100008
Either part #3 or part #15 is most likely the cause. I had part #3 go on one of my cutting heads. Same part on the QA5 head as the SL units. Take the cap off(part #1) and see if any of the pieces of the worm gear are broken. If they look ok, make sure part#10 moves up and down in the housing ok with the cap off.


----------



## Pete1313

@Brackin4au, also make sure part #4 is not siezed/stripped in part #10. They thread together.


----------



## Brackin4au

@Pete1313 thanks! I'll look into it.


----------



## Brackin4au

@Pete1313 is this something that I could replace fairly easily myself, or would I need any special tool? I don't have the mower back yet, so I can't actually look into it myself. And seems like that could get expensive letting him go through it to figure it out and replace. If I can do it with basic tools, I'll just go pick it up and do it myself.


----------



## walk1355

Brackin4au said:


> @Pete1313 is this something that I could replace fairly easily myself, or would I need any special tool? I don't have the mower back yet, so I can't actually look into it myself. And seems like that could get expensive letting him go through it to figure it out and replace. If I can do it with basic tools, I'll just go pick it up and do it myself.


I have a ton of tools and also live in Madison if you end up needing to borrow something you are more than welcome. I am also pretty handy and could probably help if you needed it.


----------



## Brackin4au

walk1355 said:


> I have a ton of tools and also live in Madison if you end up needing to borrow something you are more than welcome. I am also pretty handy and could probably help if you needed it.


Awesome. Thanks! I'll let you know once I get it back.


----------



## Pete1313

@Brackin4au, going into and doing repairs on the adjuster assembly is fairly easy and only needs a couple wrenches to do. There are a couple of things to look out for like making sure the 3 spring washers are in the correct order(down,up,down) and making sure the jam nuts are tightened properly so the worm gear is able to spin freely yet doesnt have any play. I'm going to do my worm gear by this weekend on the one head. I'll try and snap some pics.


----------



## Brackin4au

Pete1313 said:


> @Brackin4au, going into and doing repairs on the adjuster assembly is fairly easy and only needs a couple wrenches to do. There are a couple of things to look out for like making sure the 3 spring washers are in the correct order(down,up,down) and making sure the jam nuts are tightened properly so the worm gear is able to spin freely yet doesnt have any play. I'm going to do my worm gear by this weekend on the one head. I'll try and snap some pics.


Okay cool. Thanks!


----------



## g-man

The 3rd image has the worm gear with the 3 spring washers in the background. I think you could get it off by removing the top square nut.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1584&hilit=220e&start=20#p31111


----------



## Brackin4au

g-man said:


> The 3rd image has the worm gear with the 3 spring washers in the background. I think you could get it off by removing the top square nut.
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1584&hilit=220e&start=20#p31111


 :thumbup:


----------



## msantaspirt

Has anyone put a custom roller their mower? I have a JD 20sr7 that I got for free and can't find much, if anything, about them on the internet. It has 2 large wheels on the front, but I'd really like to have a roller. Is it possible to do this without messing up the cut?


----------



## Cheesetoast

Anyone know where to get a service manual for the 220E?


----------



## g-man

Cheesetoast said:


> Anyone know where to get a service manual for the 220E?


Technician manual is here. 
http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual


----------



## KCBen

msantaspirt said:


> Has anyone put a custom roller their mower? I have a JD 20sr7 that I got for free and can't find much, if anything, about them on the internet. It has 2 large wheels on the front, but I'd really like to have a roller. Is it possible to do this without messing up the cut?


@msantaspirt I saw in another post that someone suggested the JD 20sr7 was built like a McLane and branded for JD. If that is the case, Reel Rollers makes a complete kit for switching from wheels to front roller.

https://reelrollers.com/shop-2/mclane-reel-mower-front-wheel-replacement/

It shouldn't mess up the cut making that switch. Based on everything people say about rollers vs wheels, it should actually reduce some issues since the roller will always find the high spots compared to wheels.


----------



## Cheesetoast

g-man said:


> Cheesetoast said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know where to get a service manual for the 220E?
> 
> 
> 
> Technician manual is here.
> http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual
Click to expand...

Thanks, @g-man


----------



## joeker

Would I be able to cut down the transport wheel axle by using a recip. saw(with a blade made for thick metal)?


----------



## SantiCazorla

Started refitting my 260sl with a new 7 blade reel today but ran into a problem. After opening up the greens tender conditioner gear case to remove the reel I noticed I'm missing a part on the reel axel. Part #1, spacer.



Did this spacer get replaced by part #41, gear in the GTC gear case?



Another question. Part #13, spacer. I forgot which way it goes, larger or smaller diameter facing blades?


----------



## Pete1313

@SantiCazorla, yes part #41 replaces part #1 when you have a GTC. The smaller diameter on part #13 faces the blades.


----------



## SantiCazorla

Thank you @Pete1313!


----------



## jha4aamu

walk1355 said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mantnyh said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same exact issue with the surging. I cleaned the carburator several times to no avail. Ordered el cheapo carb on Amazon and it runs like a charm now. Good luck.
> 
> 
> 
> Funny. I ordered a cheap carb from Amazon. came in today. Will try it out tomorrow.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This worked like a charm. Installed the brand new card today and no more surging.
Click to expand...

you wouldnt happen to have a link to that carb you bought would you? ive been looking on amazon for a new carb but was unsure which one works w/ my 260sl


----------



## walk1355

jha4aamu said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Funny. I ordered a cheap carb from Amazon. came in today. Will try it out tomorrow.
> 
> 
> 
> This worked like a charm. Installed the brand new card today and no more surging.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> you wouldnt happen to have a link to that carb you bought would you? ive been looking on amazon for a new carb but was unsure which one works w/ my 260sl
Click to expand...

I ordered this carb from Amazon. I actually ordered 2, 1 for my mower, and another that I sold. They both provided great results.


----------



## jha4aamu

walk1355 said:


> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> This worked like a charm. Installed the brand new card today and no more surging.
> 
> 
> 
> you wouldnt happen to have a link to that carb you bought would you? ive been looking on amazon for a new carb but was unsure which one works w/ my 260sl
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I ordered this carb from Amazon. I actually ordered 2, 1 for my mower, and another that I sold. They both provided great results.
Click to expand...

awesome. thanks. this was on of the ones i was debating on but started second guessing myself before i purchased it? were these parts pretty simple to replace yourself?


----------



## walk1355

jha4aamu said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> you wouldnt happen to have a link to that carb you bought would you? ive been looking on amazon for a new carb but was unsure which one works w/ my 260sl
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered this carb from Amazon. I actually ordered 2, 1 for my mower, and another that I sold. They both provided great results.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> awesome. thanks. this was on of the ones i was debating on but started second guessing myself before i purchased it? were these parts pretty simple to replace yourself?
Click to expand...

Yes, the carbs on these Honda GX 120s are extremely easy to replace. Pull off air filter and housing (10mm), unhook fuel line from carb, slide carb off.

Check the service manual and make sure you have all of the spacers correctly installed and that you have them all. This can also cause surging if one is missing or installed incorrectly as it can cause excess air to be sucked into the engine and cause an air rich mixture which will 100% cause surging.


----------



## SeanB

I was cleaning my 220A the other day and noticed I only have 1 belt. Is this correct? Or do I need 2? If i do need 2, where should I get new belts? I don't know how I didn't notice this in the past.


----------



## jha4aamu

so im getting my 2012 260sl serviced at a local JD shop and they called and said the fuel line, tank and carb were in bad shape and would need to be replaced. They quoted me ~$800 for the repairs but also said they didnt think that machine was worth it? There is nothing else wrong w/ the mower(it started fine last winter, and I recently purchased a new bedknife and reel so im not really concerned even if they said those were bad) Does this sound like a legit quote for the work? and i paid approx $250 for the mower from a Week's auction so even spending $800, i would assume the mower would be worth $1k. Any thoughts are appreciated


----------



## walk1355

jha4aamu said:


> so im getting my 2012 260sl serviced at a local JD shop and they called and said the fuel line, tank and carb were in bad shape and would need to be replaced. They quoted me ~$800 for the repairs but also said they didnt think that machine was worth it? There is nothing else wrong w/ the mower(it started fine last winter, and I recently purchased a new bedknife and reel so im not really concerned even if they said those were bad) Does this sound like a legit quote for the work? and i paid approx $250 for the mower from a Week's auction so even spending $800, i would assume the mower would be worth $1k. Any thoughts are appreciated


That quote is crazy. I'm a decent DIY and could complete those three tasks in about an hour. And that includes draining the old fuel. Even if they are using OEM parts, I would expect to spend about $200 total for the parts, $100 or less for non-OEM.

You could easily figure out how to do it. From my memory you would only need a 10mm wrench and some pliers as far as tools go. The tank is held on by 4 10mm nuts and the carb is held on by 2 10mm nuts. The pliers would be for removing the fuel lines.


----------



## jha4aamu

walk1355 said:


> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> so im getting my 2012 260sl serviced at a local JD shop and they called and said the fuel line, tank and carb were in bad shape and would need to be replaced. They quoted me ~$800 for the repairs but also said they didnt think that machine was worth it? There is nothing else wrong w/ the mower(it started fine last winter, and I recently purchased a new bedknife and reel so im not really concerned even if they said those were bad) Does this sound like a legit quote for the work? and i paid approx $250 for the mower from a Week's auction so even spending $800, i would assume the mower would be worth $1k. Any thoughts are appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> That quote is crazy. I'm a decent DIY and could complete those three tasks in about an hour. And that includes draining the old fuel. Even if they are using OEM parts, I would expect to spend about $200 total for the parts, $100 or less for non-OEM.
> 
> You could easily figure out how to do it. From my memory you would only need a 10mm wrench and some pliers as far as tools go. The tank is held on by 4 10mm nuts and the carb is held on by 2 10mm nuts. The pliers would be for removing the fuel lines.
Click to expand...

yea thats sort of the feeling i had after watching 2 youtube videos on how to replace the fuel tank. they quoted me $150 for the carb and $195 for the tank. just bought both for $40 total on amazon. but im fairly green when it comes to reel mowers/mowing. this will be my first season using one.


----------



## walk1355

jha4aamu said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> so im getting my 2012 260sl serviced at a local JD shop and they called and said the fuel line, tank and carb were in bad shape and would need to be replaced. They quoted me ~$800 for the repairs but also said they didnt think that machine was worth it? There is nothing else wrong w/ the mower(it started fine last winter, and I recently purchased a new bedknife and reel so im not really concerned even if they said those were bad) Does this sound like a legit quote for the work? and i paid approx $250 for the mower from a Week's auction so even spending $800, i would assume the mower would be worth $1k. Any thoughts are appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> That quote is crazy. I'm a decent DIY and could complete those three tasks in about an hour. And that includes draining the old fuel. Even if they are using OEM parts, I would expect to spend about $200 total for the parts, $100 or less for non-OEM.
> 
> You could easily figure out how to do it. From my memory you would only need a 10mm wrench and some pliers as far as tools go. The tank is held on by 4 10mm nuts and the carb is held on by 2 10mm nuts. The pliers would be for removing the fuel lines.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> yea thats sort of the feeling i had after watching 2 youtube videos on how to replace the fuel tank. they quoted me $150 for the carb and $195 for the tank. just bought both for $40 total on amazon. but im fairly green when it comes to reel mowers/mowing. this will be my first season using one.
Click to expand...

Don't let it overwhelm you. It's a Honda GX120 engine. When looking for how to YouTube videos search for that instead of John deere how to.


----------



## SantiCazorla

I agree with @walk1355. I bought a 260sl from last months weeks that had surging issues i was able to correct with a $5 can of carburetor cleaner and a wire twist tie. I don't know how difficult a gas tank replacement would be but there are no moving parts so cant be too complex. If you know how to turn a wrench you'll be fine. $800 is a ripoff!

Here's's a link to the technical manual for reference if you need it.


----------



## jha4aamu

@SantiCazorla thanks. that will def come in handy


----------



## lobitz68

Recently purchased a 260C online (still waiting for delivery) and I would like to get a 3" roller... I've seen mention of this part online and it appears the part is available, but I haven't seen anything that gives enough detail to purchase the correct part. Does anyone have a part number or a non-OEM source for a 3" roller that will fit this machine? I'm a long time 3.5"+ mower moving to a greens mower for the first time. The yard probably isn't quite ready to drop all the way down to the HOC that the 2" roller is providing. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## g-man

@lobitz68 welcome to TLF.

I'm not sure if there is a 3in roller for the 260 (26in lenght). I searched in www.greenfarmparts.com and could not find one.

I have a 220E and my lawn is not even close to level. You should be able to go to 3/4in with your current system without any issues. The way the roller works is that it won't let the hoc drop (hit the ground) unless entire length of the roller (26in ) is able to drop.


----------



## lobitz68

g-man said:


> @lobitz68 welcome to TLF.
> 
> I'm not sure if there is a 3in roller for the 260 (26in lenght). I searched in www.greenfarmparts.com and could not find one.
> 
> I have a 220E and my lawn is not even close to level. You should be able to go to 3/4in with your current system without any issues. The way the roller works is that it won't let the hoc drop (hit the ground) unless entire length of the roller (26in ) is able to drop.


I wasn't able to find one either, but I did find a post on here that stated someone found one on R&R... Thanks for the reply.


----------



## SantiCazorla

Hey. I have one of those 3" rollers my local dealer gave me for this exact same reason. He said it came off a triplex and if I wanted a higher hoc to try it out.

I haven't attached it yet. But I looks like it should fit. Only issue might be the bearing that fits into hoc adjuster clamp. The 2.5" is perfectly round but the 3" is slotted on two sides with a grease zerk, both are 5/8" diameter so it might work.


----------



## jha4aamu

lobitz68 said:


> Recently purchased a 260C online (still waiting for delivery) and I would like to get a 3" roller... I've seen mention of this part online and it appears the part is available, but I haven't seen anything that gives enough detail to purchase the correct part. Does anyone have a part number or a non-OEM source for a 3" roller that will fit this machine? I'm a long time 3.5"+ mower moving to a greens mower for the first time. The yard probably isn't quite ready to drop all the way down to the HOC that the 2" roller is providing. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!


They do make a 3" roller for the 260sl. I'm not knowledgeable enough to know if it's compatible with the 260c but the part number is bm1918 (spiral)
BM17671 (smooth) and bm25318 (grooved)


----------



## lobitz68

SantiCazorla said:


> Hey. I have one of those 3" rollers my local dealer gave me for this exact same reason. He said it came off a triplex and if I wanted a higher hoc to try it out.
> 
> I haven't attached it yet. But I looks like it should fit. Only issue might be the bearing that fits into hoc adjuster clamp. The 2.5" is perfectly round but the 3" is slotted on two sides with a grease zerk, both are 5/8" diameter so it might work.


What HOC are you getting with the roller you currently have installed?


----------



## SantiCazorla

Bench HOC is set to 7/8" but i haven't mowed with it yet so couldn't tell you the difference in performance between the two rollers. I think i can get to 1 1/16" max if i removed GTC and rotate adjuster clamps 180 degrees to bring roller closer to the reel. That would be the cheaper option instead of purchasing a new roller imo.


----------



## J_nick

SeanB said:


> I was cleaning my 220A the other day and noticed I only have 1 belt. Is this correct? Or do I need 2? If i do need 2, where should I get new belts? I don't know how I didn't notice this in the past.


I mowed with 1 belt for half the season last year before I got around to replacing it with 2 new ones.


----------



## Brackin4au

So I got my 260SL back from getting a reel grind. I'm pretty sure he just did a spin grind, but it's cutting paper. When I got it home the other day, I couldn't resist and I went straight to cutting the front yard. I had previously scalped to 1" (lowest my rotary will go). I had the guy set my HOC to 3/4" so I wouldn't be taking off more than the reel could handle at one time. It bogged down several times, enough to cut the engine off a couple times actually, but eventually I got it through one pass, then went over again at 90def to get all the stragglers. It did great once the grass was lower.

I wanted to inquire about the sound of the reel. It was way more "grindy" sounding than I expected. I was worried the reel to bedknife might be too close, so I backed it off some. But then it wasn't cutting paper anymore. So I brought it back down to where it would barely cut paper and tried again. Same sound. This is my first powered reel mower, so it may be normal. But I've had a manual mower in the past, that didn't sound nearly that "grindy" (for lack of better wording). To be clear, the mower itself sounds fine. Just the sound when the reel is spinning. Just wanted to check before I keep grinding away (pun sort of intended).


----------



## SantiCazorla

@lobitz68 
For science! Attached 3" roller and raised adjusters for max HOC. 


HOC gauge topped out at 1 1/20" so needed to improvise.



Used a ruler to approximate.



~1 13/32" = 1.41". Just guessing but if I remove GTC and bring roller closer this should give an additional 1/4" or more. 1.66" - 1.75"?


----------



## Brackin4au

Brackin4au said:


> So I got my 260SL back from getting a reel grind. I'm pretty sure he just did a spin grind, but it's cutting paper. When I got it home the other day, I couldn't resist and I went straight to cutting the front yard. I had previously scalped to 1" (lowest my rotary will go). I had the guy set my HOC to 3/4" so I wouldn't be taking off more than the reel could handle at one time. It bogged down several times, enough to cut the engine off a couple times actually, but eventually I got it through one pass, then went over again at 90def to get all the stragglers. It did great once the grass was lower.
> 
> I wanted to inquire about the sound of the reel. It was way more "grindy" sounding than I expected. I was worried the reel to bedknife might be too close, so I backed it off some. But then it wasn't cutting paper anymore. So I brought it back down to where it would barely cut paper and tried again. Same sound. This is my first powered reel mower, so it may be normal. But I've had a manual mower in the past, that didn't sound nearly that "grindy" (for lack of better wording). To be clear, the mower itself sounds fine. Just the sound when the reel is spinning. Just wanted to check before I keep grinding away (pun sort of intended).


So I got back out today to try and do some more scalping on my side yard. Couldn't get the blades to keep from bogging down. I'm sure some of it is the fact it's 1" tall (low as my rotary can get it) and my mower has an 11 blade reel. However, something just isn't right. The grinding sound wasn't quite as bad when the blades would actually spin... but now I have a bigger problem. My suspicions were correct and it has ground the blade to the point the reel is about as sharp as a butter knife, not even a full cut after taking it for a grind. What have I done?? I assumed the golf course mechanic knew what he was doing when setting up the reel to bedknife, so I just went for it and cut my ~3k front yard the other day before my last post. I guess that was stupid because now it looks like my money spent having the reel ground was a complete waste....


----------



## mantnyh

SeanB said:


> I was cleaning my 220A the other day and noticed I only have 1 belt. Is this correct? Or do I need 2? If i do need 2, where should I get new belts? I don't know how I didn't notice this in the past.


It definitely takes two belts. You need to replace both so the tension will be the same. I got mine on green farm parts.com. Easy to change too.


----------



## wartee

What size roller chain does the 220C take? It's smaller than 41, maybe 35?


----------



## wartee

wartee said:


> What size roller chain does the 220C take? It's smaller than 41, maybe 35?


Never mind, it is size 35.


----------



## joeker

Brackin4au said:


> Brackin4au said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I got my 260SL back from getting a reel grind. I'm pretty sure he just did a spin grind, but it's cutting paper. When I got it home the other day, I couldn't resist and I went straight to cutting the front yard. I had previously scalped to 1" (lowest my rotary will go). I had the guy set my HOC to 3/4" so I wouldn't be taking off more than the reel could handle at one time. It bogged down several times, enough to cut the engine off a couple times actually, but eventually I got it through one pass, then went over again at 90def to get all the stragglers. It did great once the grass was lower.
> 
> I wanted to inquire about the sound of the reel. It was way more "grindy" sounding than I expected. I was worried the reel to bedknife might be too close, so I backed it off some. But then it wasn't cutting paper anymore. So I brought it back down to where it would barely cut paper and tried again. Same sound. This is my first powered reel mower, so it may be normal. But I've had a manual mower in the past, that didn't sound nearly that "grindy" (for lack of better wording). To be clear, the mower itself sounds fine. Just the sound when the reel is spinning. Just wanted to check before I keep grinding away (pun sort of intended).
> 
> 
> 
> So I got back out today to try and do some more scalping on my side yard. Couldn't get the blades to keep from bogging down. I'm sure some of it is the fact it's 1" tall (low as my rotary can get it) and my mower has an 11 blade reel. However, something just isn't right. The grinding sound wasn't quite as bad when the blades would actually spin... but now I have a bigger problem. My suspicions were correct and it has ground the blade to the point the reel is about as sharp as a butter knife, not even a full cut after taking it for a grind. What have I done?? I assumed the golf course mechanic knew what he was doing when setting up the reel to bedknife, so I just went for it and cut my ~3k front yard the other day before my last post. I guess that was stupid because now it looks like my money spent having the reel ground was a complete waste....
Click to expand...

Does it still cut paper? You may need a backlap... Consider getting a feeler gauge and adjust the reel to bedknife to spec. I scalped my lawn which was about 1.5"' down to 3/8" with my 11 blade with no issues.


----------



## Brackin4au

@joeker No it doesn't cut paper now. Just bends it. I called the mechanic today and told him what happened. He was confused as well as to why it would grind like that. Luckily, he told me to back it off some and see how it does, and if that fixes it, he offered to bring his backlapper to my house and re-sharpen it some since I live close to the golf course. I guess I need to look into a gauge like you mentioned.


----------



## driver_7

I bought a feeler gauge set off amazon for a couple bucks that included a .001" gauge, which is what was recommended in the JD manual for my 220A. Bummer about the grinding issue, hopefully he can get it cutting again.


----------



## walk1355

717driver said:


> I bought a feeler gauge set off amazon for a couple bucks that included a .001" gauge, which is what was recommended in the JD manual for my 220A. Bummer about the grinding issue, hopefully he can get it cutting again.


@717driver. Can you link the one you bought?


----------



## Brackin4au

walk1355 said:


> 717driver said:
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a feeler gauge set off amazon for a couple bucks that included a .001" gauge, which is what was recommended in the JD manual for my 220A. Bummer about the grinding issue, hopefully he can get it cutting again.
> 
> 
> 
> @717driver. Can you link the one you bought?
Click to expand...

Yes please. I looked and lowest I can find is .0015. Pretty close, but when we are talking about that finite a measurement, it seems significant. I found a set with .0015 at harbor freight for like $4, so I'll just get it instead, if I can't find anything below .0015 on amazon.


----------



## Ware

Brackin4au said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 717driver said:
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a feeler gauge set off amazon for a couple bucks that included a .001" gauge, which is what was recommended in the JD manual for my 220A. Bummer about the grinding issue, hopefully he can get it cutting again.
> 
> 
> 
> @717driver. Can you link the one you bought?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes please. I looked and lowest I can find is .0015. Pretty close, but when we are talking about that finite a measurement, it seems significant. I found a set with .0015 at harbor freight for like $4, so I'll just get it instead, if I can't find anything below .0015 on amazon.
Click to expand...

This set says it goes down to 0.001". Here are some plastic ones. Alternatively, here are some singles.

That said, more often that not I just use small strips of paper. I look for the reel to bedknife clearance to pinch the paper when inserted parallel, and cut the paper when inserted perpendicular.


----------



## The Anti-Rebel

yeah here's a video just using paper as a feeler gauge on a Jacobsen unit. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fozhUG2Y_Fo


----------



## Brackin4au

Ware said:


> Brackin4au said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @717driver. Can you link the one you bought?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes please. I looked and lowest I can find is .0015. Pretty close, but when we are talking about that finite a measurement, it seems significant. I found a set with .0015 at harbor freight for like $4, so I'll just get it instead, if I can't find anything below .0015 on amazon.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This set says it goes down to 0.001". Here are some plastic ones. Alternatively, here are some singles.
> 
> That said, more often that not I just use small strips of paper. I look for the reel to bedknife clearance to pinch the paper when inserted parallel, and cut the paper when inserted perpendicular.
Click to expand...

I saw something similar to what you're saying (unfortunately I saw it after the fact). I'm wondering now if when I tried backing the reel off, maybe I had the paper too parallel and I just "thought" it wasn't close enough to cut. I'll have to look into that next thanks..


----------



## Brackin4au

The Anti-Rebel said:


> yeah here's a video just using paper as a feeler gauge on a Jacobsen unit.


 :thumbup: thanks!


----------



## driver_7

walk1355 said:


> 717driver said:
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a feeler gauge set off amazon for a couple bucks that included a .001" gauge, which is what was recommended in the JD manual for my 220A. Bummer about the grinding issue, hopefully he can get it cutting again.
> 
> 
> 
> @717driver. Can you link the one you bought?
Click to expand...

I got the first one in @Ware's post down a few from my original post. I feel silly though since paper appears to work just the same. I couldn't tell a difference in thickness eybeyeballing it between a piece of paper and the .0001 gauge.


----------



## Kahodges

Hey guys I've been hunting for a good greens mower for my lawn. I've found a JD 260B fairly local but he is asking $1200. I've been doing some reading and see one sold on the forum for around $550 but really not much information on them at all. Curious what I fair price is for an 11 blade mower?


----------



## Brackin4au

@Kahodges hard to say, but for reference...

The evolution of the JD greensmower. 
The 220A was made from 1997-2002, 
The 220B from 2002-2006, 
The 220C from 2007-2010, and
The 220SL from 2011-Current.

That's from a post mixed throughout this thread. So that 260B is 13-17 years old. If it's in great shape, could still be a great mower. That old though, $1200 sounds pretty steep. Have you checked out the websites listed on this thread


----------



## Kahodges

Brackin4au said:


> @Kahodges hard to say, but for reference...
> 
> The evolution of the JD greensmower.
> The 220A was made from 1997-2002,
> The 220B from 2002-2006,
> The 220C from 2007-2010, and
> The 220SL from 2011-Current.
> 
> That's from a post mixed throughout this thread. So that 260B is 13-17 years old. If it's in great shape, could still be a great mower. That old though, $1200 sounds pretty steep. Have you checked out the websites listed on this thread


Hey thank you for that. After reading up more I did find that the mower I was looking for is just not worth the money they are asking. Unfortunately there isn't anything else around me. I did go to the links you sent me to and that is an awesome resource for sure. There is a green master 1000 located about 2.5 hours away from me but they want $1500 and it has the older Kawasaki engine and I would mich prefer the Subaru engine. I guess I will just have to be patient! Out of curiosity has anyone shipped one of these? What does it typically cost?


----------



## g-man

@Kahodges you are close to weeks that could drive to pick up an auction one. You could find good deals, but might requiere some tune up. Weeks has an auction fairly frequently.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8054


----------



## Pete1313

Brackin4au said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 717driver said:
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a feeler gauge set off amazon for a couple bucks that included a .001" gauge, which is what was recommended in the JD manual for my 220A. Bummer about the grinding issue, hopefully he can get it cutting again.
> 
> 
> 
> @717driver. Can you link the one you bought?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes please. I looked and lowest I can find is .0015. Pretty close, but when we are talking about that finite a measurement, it seems significant. I found a set with .0015 at harbor freight for like $4, so I'll just get it instead, if I can't find anything below .0015 on amazon.
Click to expand...

This is a good buy for .001" feeler gauge.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JFYJ8S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title&th=1
It is what I use and is a 25 foot roll. I find with the .001" you end up bending and going thru alot of feeler gauge. Only one left at a good price.


----------



## jha4aamu

Kahodges said:


> Brackin4au said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Kahodges hard to say, but for reference...
> 
> The evolution of the JD greensmower.
> The 220A was made from 1997-2002,
> The 220B from 2002-2006,
> The 220C from 2007-2010, and
> The 220SL from 2011-Current.
> 
> That's from a post mixed throughout this thread. So that 260B is 13-17 years old. If it's in great shape, could still be a great mower. That old though, $1200 sounds pretty steep. Have you checked out the websites listed on this thread
> 
> 
> 
> Hey thank you for that. After reading up more I did find that the mower I was looking for is just not worth the money they are asking. Unfortunately there isn't anything else around me. I did go to the links you sent me to and that is an awesome resource for sure. There is a green master 1000 located about 2.5 hours away from me but they want $1500 and it has the older Kawasaki engine and I would mich prefer the Subaru engine. I guess I will just have to be patient! Out of curiosity has anyone shipped one of these? What does it typically cost?
Click to expand...

I have had two shipped to me in St. Louis from FL and GA. I think it was roughly $250 for home delivery w/ liftgate service. It will be alot cheaper if you choose to pick it up from their hub though


----------



## Mrsamman

Hey thank you for that. After reading up more I did find that the mower I was looking for is just not worth the money they are asking. Unfortunately there isn't anything else around me. I did go to the links you sent me to and that is an awesome resource for sure. There is a green master 1000 located about 2.5 hours away from me but they want $1500 and it has the older Kawasaki engine and I would mich prefer the Subaru engine. I guess I will just have to be patient! Out of curiosity has anyone shipped one of these? What does it typically cost?
[/quote]
I was talking with a guy at the Toro turf dealership in Tulsa and he said the Kawasaki motors are alot better than the Subaru's. This was from the guy that was selling new Subaru machines last year... I dont know what motor the newest walkbehind will have on them. He also said the best courses in town prefer the 1000's to the flexes.

Scott


----------



## joeker

Brackin4au said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 717driver said:
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a feeler gauge set off amazon for a couple bucks that included a .001" gauge, which is what was recommended in the JD manual for my 220A. Bummer about the grinding issue, hopefully he can get it cutting again.
> 
> 
> 
> @717driver. Can you link the one you bought?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes please. I looked and lowest I can find is .0015. Pretty close, but when we are talking about that finite a measurement, it seems significant. I found a set with .0015 at harbor freight for like $4, so I'll just get it instead, if I can't find anything below .0015 on amazon.
Click to expand...

@Brackin4au I bought this feeler gauge from HF and just took it down a couple clicks to take it to approximately 0.001". Per the JD manual, they want no contact between the bedknife and reel. I think its safe to say as long as its not touching and the reel spins freely, you're just splitting hairs at this point.


----------



## Kahodges

g-man said:


> @Kahodges you are close to weeks that could drive to pick up an auction one. You could find good deals, but might requiere some tune up. Weeks has an auction fairly frequently.
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=8054


That is not a bad idea at all. I don't mind working on them a bit to bring them back to life but do not want a rust bucket either. Looking at the site it seems like the next auction I June. That kinda stinks since I'm hoping to have one before grow season begins.


----------



## Kahodges

Mrsamman said:


> Hey thank you for that. After reading up more I did find that the mower I was looking for is just not worth the money they are asking. Unfortunately there isn't anything else around me. I did go to the links you sent me to and that is an awesome resource for sure. There is a green master 1000 located about 2.5 hours away from me but they want $1500 and it has the older Kawasaki engine and I would mich prefer the Subaru engine. I guess I will just have to be patient! Out of curiosity has anyone shipped one of these? What does it typically cost?


I was talking with a guy at the Toro turf dealership in Tulsa and he said the Kawasaki motors are alot better than the Subaru's. This was from the guy that was selling new Subaru machines last year... I dont know what motor the newest walkbehind will have on them. He also said the best courses in town prefer the 1000's to the flexes.

Scott
[/quote]
Really well I wouldn't have thought that. I know on various other items I have the Subaru is the one you want. That is a switch to fuel injection though so could be very different. What's a fair price on a 1000 used typically?


----------



## Mrsamman

From what I have seen them for sale and what I paid for mine I would say $400-$600 depending on condition. Mine was not running when I bought it. But with an hour of elbow grease and a fuel filter mine was running.

Scott


----------



## Jacob_S

Well this sucks, was adjusting to change bedknife and snap. Has anyone had to replace these to know if R&R has aftermarket replacement?


----------



## Brackin4au

joeker said:


> Brackin4au said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @717driver. Can you link the one you bought?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes please. I looked and lowest I can find is .0015. Pretty close, but when we are talking about that finite a measurement, it seems significant. I found a set with .0015 at harbor freight for like $4, so I'll just get it instead, if I can't find anything below .0015 on amazon.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @Brackin4au I bought this feeler gauge from HF and just took it down a couple clicks to take it to approximately 0.001". Per the JD manual, they want no contact between the bedknife and reel. I think its safe to say as long as its not touching and the reel spins freely, you're just splitting hairs at this point.
Click to expand...

True. I'm finding out that my reel to bedknife was entirely too close, which ended up in a wasted grind. I'm gonna work on it tomorrow getting it set properly and try to cut and see how it goes. Backlap will most likely be needed.


----------



## joeker

So I scalped my bermuda down to 3/8" about three weeks ago. This is currently what it looks like today after throwing some starter fert. on it this past weekend. Is this just my lawn coming out of dormancy or is it because of a setting/adjustment on my 220 E-cut that needs to be addressed?


















Edit: answered my own question with Google. Anyway, I guess everyone can enjoy pics of my scalped lawn coming out of dormancy!


----------



## Brackin4au

So I've got a few cuts under my belt now with the 260SL, and finally getting the hang of it. Now I'm having a new issue. Before, when I was getting used to the mower, I was really having to feather the lever when putting it in gear. Now that I'm used to the mower more, I find myself dropping it in gear much quicker. However, it's causing the engine to stall when I do that. If I feather it really slowly, no trouble. But if I just drop it in gear and go, it cuts off. I tried playing with the throttle some, but I've kept it at full throttle and it still does it. Less on the throttle and it cuts off even if I feather it. Ideas?

Edit: it only seems to do that when the reel is engaged. I've read through the thread again, and think maybe it could be belt related? Am I correct on that? Maybe adjusting the belts/motor position would help?


----------



## driver_7

Headed out on the maiden scalping voyage with the 220A! A lot of hours in the garage poured into this moment... ready to get this season underway!


----------



## TonyC

Brackin4au said:


> So I've got a few cuts under my belt now with the 260SL, and finally getting the hang of it. Now I'm having a new issue. Before, when I was getting used to the mower, I was really having to feather the lever when putting it in gear. Now that I'm used to the mower more, I find myself dropping it in gear much quicker. However, it's causing the engine to stall when I do that. If I feather it really slowly, no trouble. But if I just drop it in gear and go, it cuts off. I tried playing with the throttle some, but I've kept it at full throttle and it still does it. Less on the throttle and it cuts off even if I feather it. Ideas?
> 
> Edit: it only seems to do that when the reel is engaged. I've read through the thread again, and think maybe it could be belt related? Am I correct on that? Maybe adjusting the belts/motor position would help?


I had a similar experience. Try greasing all your zerts, especially the ones on the drive shafts and reel bearings.

When your reel is disengaged,...
...does the reel spin freely or do you feel resistance?
...can you turn the forward drive shaft easily or is there resistance?

If you have a groomer, disengage it and try.


----------



## Brackin4au

TonyC said:


> .
> 
> When your reel is disengaged,...
> ...does the reel spin freely or do you feel resistance?
> ...can you turn the forward drive shaft easily or is there resistance?
> 
> If you have a groomer, disengage it and try.


Yes the reel spins freely by hand, no resistance. Drive shaft seemed to turn easily as well, I'll have to check it again tmrw. I don't have a groomer.

It was doing this before, but I thought it was more due to the amount of grass I was trying to cut since I was scalping. But now it's doing it worse even after the grass is down low. I replaced the carburetor with a new one today too, so that shouldn't be a problem.


----------



## TonyC

@Brackin4au New Carb? Double check you reattached the Governor linkage correctly, especially the spring. Did the spring get stretched or damaged? In the correct holes? As the engine takes load, the RPMs will decrease if the Governor linkage doesn't open the throttle more, and the engine will bog and even die.


----------



## Brackin4au

@TonyC I didn't see this until now, but I was out this morning messing with it. And I think that may be exactly what it is. I made sure they were in the correct locations yesterday when I put the new carb on. But today I noticed that it may be a little stretched, bc if I nudged it a tad with my finger, the RPMs jumped up. Not dangerously, just significantly. I'm going to have to go back and watch that video posted in this thread previously regarding the governor. Because I'm not sure how high the RPMs need to be. It might be easier to just get a new rod and spring you think? Quick search shows them under $6 for both on amazon.

I'm ready to just go out and cut grass haha. On a positive note, I finally got all my yard scalped and ready for the season! Only took me 2 weeks ha (had to sprinkle in some golf days too of course).


----------



## TonyC

@Brackin4au Probably worth the $6. :thumbup:


----------



## joeker

At what height below HOC does everyone set their GTC? I was gonna start fiddling with it this weekend


----------



## g-man

The manual states to keep it around hoc, but I've been going lower. You do not want it to hit dirt. It uses a slip bushing and it will wear it too much. I'm at 0.5 in from bench.


----------



## Pete1313

joeker said:


> At what height below HOC does everyone set their GTC? I was gonna start fiddling with it this weekend


I'm at 25% below HOC, but both @g-man and I are running them on cool season grass and maybe the question would be best directed to other warm season members growing bermuda.


----------



## erdons

Anyone have any info on a John Deere 220, I know the 220a is maybe 15-20 years old but can't find any specifics on the 220 in terms of age. Have a guy selling one locally for $300 but not sure if it's even worth that .


----------



## TonyC

180 = 18" width
220 is just a 22" width.
260 = 26" width

Go back a few posts and there is a rough breakdown of the models (a,b,c,sl) by year.


----------



## erdons

TonyC said:


> 180 = 18" width
> 220 is just a 22" width.
> 260 = 26" width
> 
> Go back a few posts and there is a rough breakdown of the models (a,b,c,sl) by year.


There actually is a 220 model without a letter and I can't exactly pinpoint if this was the predecessor to the 220a.


----------



## Pete1313

erdons said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 180 = 18" width
> 220 is just a 22" width.
> 260 = 26" width
> 
> Go back a few posts and there is a rough breakdown of the models (a,b,c,sl) by year.
> 
> 
> 
> There actually is a 220 model without a letter and I can't exactly pinpoint if this was the predecessor to the 220a.
Click to expand...

It was the predecessor to the 220A. A 220 model is over 23yrs old.


----------



## driver_7

I wouldn't pay that much for the 220, but I paid over $300 for my 220A and felt fine with it. I bought it off another member here, it is a good machine. It might not be as pretty as the B series and newer with the green covers over various parts, but I like it. Gave it some TLC already, with a new reel, BK and some paint touch ups this month, it'll be good as new.

If you can get it cheaper, maybe, but otherwise I'd hold off.


----------



## erdons

717driver said:


> I wouldn't pay that much for the 220A, but I paid over $300 for my 220A and felt fine with it. I bought it off another member here, it is a good machine. It might not be as pretty as the B series and newer with the green covers over various parts, but I like it. Gave it some TLC already, with a new reel, BK and some paint touch ups this month, it'll be good as new.
> 
> If you can get it cheaper, maybe, but otherwise I'd hold off.


I'm going to throw out $100 at him and say it's a 25 year old machine, he initially had it listed at $1000 not sure wtf he was thinking.


----------



## walk1355

erdons said:


> Anyone have any info on a John Deere 220, I know the 220a is maybe 15-20 years old but can't find any specifics on the 220 in terms of age. Have a guy selling one locally for $300 but not sure if it's even worth that .


John Deere does make a 220 model. But it's not a reel mower. It's a piece of farm equipment. Did he post pictures of a reel mower? Or is it just listed with no pictures?


----------



## Pete1313

Here is a pic of a 220 greensmower. It was produced in '95-'96.


Here is a pic of a 22 greensmower. It was produced in '87-94.


I'll update this post I made before


> The evolution of the JD fixed head walk behind greensmower.
> The 22 was made from 1987-1994,
> The 220 from 1995-1996,
> The 220A from 1997-2002,
> The 220B from 2002-2006,
> The 220C from 2007-2010, and
> The 220SL from 2011-Current.
> 
> Design changes were made over the years to various parts of the mowers.
> 
> The 220 E-Cut is made from 2010-Current
> It is the hybrid floating head design of the JD walk behind greensmower.


----------



## Spammage

Anyone have a link to a service manual for a 220B? I have looked online and here, but haven't found one. I'm looking specifically for the grease needed.


----------



## elm34

Spammage said:


> Anyone have a link to a service manual for a 220B? I have looked online and here, but haven't found one. I'm looking specifically for the grease needed.


Check out the link that @Redtenchu posted on page 1.


----------



## Spammage

elm34 said:


> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have a link to a service manual for a 220B? I have looked online and here, but haven't found one. I'm looking specifically for the grease needed.
> 
> 
> 
> Check out the link that @Redtenchu posted on page 1.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Weird thing though, I already had that link, but it failed to load all of the links to the left.


----------



## stepper

I'm no expert but the reel looks pretty good to me. How does the bed knife look?


----------



## Shuffinator

Hey guys, I got one of the 220B's from Colorado. Got it home today, went to start it and it wouldn't start, it would fire up on carb cleaner but then die. I drained the old gas and put fresh in. I checked to see if it was the filter but it drained when I took the fuel line off so I went ahead and ordered a new carb. Can anyone help me find a place to get this spring? It was brittle and broke off when I went to take the carb off. Thanks guys, can't wait to get this thing cutting!


----------



## Brackin4au

Here's one on amazon 

@Shuffinator I just bought one on amazon. Came in today.


----------



## Shuffinator

Brackin4au said:


> Here's one on amazon
> 
> @Shuffinator I just bought one on amazon. Came in today.


Link doesn't work.


----------



## Shuffinator

Brackin4au said:


> Here's one on amazon
> 
> @Shuffinator I just bought one on amazon. Came in today.


Found it. Thanks man!


----------



## Brackin4au

@Shuffinator sorry about that , not sure why it isn't working. Maybe because I was using a link from the mobile app. Looks like you found it though


----------



## Brackin4au

So I finally got my reel reground, new bedknife, all set up and good to go. The guy who sharpened it for me said he was a little worried about the bearings, but hoped they would hold for a while. Well.... I got out today and was cutting the back, everything going great, then heard some funky sounds from the reel. Sounded almost like a rock was banging around in it. So I cut it off, looked around and couldn't find anything, but noticed the reel had a lot of lateral play if I pushed it side to side. I called the mechanic and he said that sounded like bearings to him, so they must have gave out. I looked on greenfarmparts at some new ones, and I'm curious what all needs to be replaced. Surely it's not just the bearing cone and cup #9/#10... I'm assuming there's more that I would need. Any insight?

parts diagram


----------



## Pete1313

Get the cones, cups, and seals. 2 seals on one side and 1 on the other. Also get a new compression spring(part#2). It is what holds the pre-load on the bearings. Lastly since you are in there, you could replace the compression springs for the adjusters(part#21) they hold the tension on the adjusters to keep the bedknife clearance from changing.

Check out the thread I made on the process
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1500


----------



## Brackin4au

Very helpful. Thanks @Pete1313 I will most likely be letting the mechanic do it, as I don't feel as comfortable doing that as some of the other minor maintenance. Your write up about your process was very informative, I'm just not sure I could do that. I just wanted to make sure I didn't leave out any parts that would be needed...


----------



## Pete1313

@Brackin4au, that's understandable as it is involved. The write up will at least help one understand why a mechanic will charge what he does just for some bearings as there is some work involved. Get the parts I referenced above and you will be good to go! :thumbsup:


----------



## Brackin4au

Pete1313 said:


> @Brackin4au, that's understandable as it is involved. The write up will at least help one understand why a mechanic will charge what he does just for some bearings as there is some work involved. Get the parts I referenced above and you will be good to go! :thumbsup:


Very true. Thanks again for the parts list! I just looked on R&R and they only have a drop down menu for 260B and 260C. Mine is 260SL. Those parts probably are the same in all models right? I also used greenfarmparts and searched the JD parts numbers on the R&R site, and it brought up the correct part with numbers identical to greenfarm. Should be okay?


----------



## SantiCazorla

Brackin4au said:


> Pete1313 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Brackin4au, that's understandable as it is involved. The write up will at least help one understand why a mechanic will charge what he does just for some bearings as there is some work involved. Get the parts I referenced above and you will be good to go! :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> Very true. Thanks again for the parts list! I just looked on R&R and they only have a drop down menu for 260B and 260C. Mine is 260SL. Those parts probably are the same in all models right? I also used greenfarmparts and searched the JD parts numbers on the R&R site, and it brought up the correct part with numbers identical to greenfarm. Should be okay?
Click to expand...

@Brackin4au 
I did this same exact process on my 260sl last month using R&R parts from their 260C list and everything works perfectly. 
Also, might as well get an O-ring(#19) while youre at it.


----------



## Pete1313

SantiCazorla said:


> Brackin4au said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pete1313 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Brackin4au, that's understandable as it is involved. The write up will at least help one understand why a mechanic will charge what he does just for some bearings as there is some work involved. Get the parts I referenced above and you will be good to go! :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> Very true. Thanks again for the parts list! I just looked on R&R and they only have a drop down menu for 260B and 260C. Mine is 260SL. Those parts probably are the same in all models right? I also used greenfarmparts and searched the JD parts numbers on the R&R site, and it brought up the correct part with numbers identical to greenfarm. Should be okay?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Brackin4au
> I did this same exact process on my 260sl last month using R&R parts from their 260C list and everything works perfectly.
> Also, might as well get an O-ring(#19) while youre at it.
Click to expand...

Yup. Same parts on the 260B/C/SL for the reel, bedknife and related parts. :thumbsup:


----------



## Brackin4au

SantiCazorla said:


> Brackin4au said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pete1313 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Brackin4au, that's understandable as it is involved. The write up will at least help one understand why a mechanic will charge what he does just for some bearings as there is some work involved. Get the parts I referenced above and you will be good to go! :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> @Brackin4au
> I did this same exact process on my 260sl last month using R&R parts from their 260C list and everything works perfectly.
> Also, might as well get an O-ring(#19) while youre at it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> :thumbup:
Click to expand...


----------



## j1ggy

Hi guys, I need some help ASAP.
Can you tell me what mower is this and what does it look like to you (condition wise)?






PS It's the only greens mower available in my country ATM. Asking price is 800 $.


----------



## Pete1313

j1ggy said:


> Hi guys, I need some help ASAP.
> Can you tell me what mower is this and what does it look like to you (condition wise)?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PS It's the only greens mower available in my country ATM. Asking price is 800 $.


It is a john deere 22, built between 1987-1994. Pricy for what it is, and parts availability might be a concern.


----------



## StormTrooper86

I've got an issue with my John Deere 220SL. For some reason when I move the drive level forward after starting the engine just dies as the mower will only move a few feet. Engine starts easy and runs great when I engage the drive lever too fast or all the way the mower shuts off. Any thoughts?????


----------



## g-man

Same issue with the reel engage or disengage?


----------



## walk1355

StormTrooper86 said:


> I've got an issue with my John Deere 220SL. For some reason when I move the drive level forward after starting the engine just dies as the mower will only move a few feet. Engine starts easy and runs great when I engage the drive lever too fast or all the way the mower shuts off. Any thoughts?????


Mine is/was like this. There wasn't anything wrong with mine, I just kept trying to different engagement techniques until I figured it out. I can't slam mine into drive as it will die, I slowly engage it and start walking and it's fine. Maybe keep messing with it?


----------



## Michael303

I finally got to mow with my 180SL today. I have a relatively tiny yard and handling that thing will take some practice.

Unfortunately releasing my presence bar doesn't disengage the clutch and I have to manually pull the clutch handle back. Has anyone else run into this? Anyone familiar enough with the system to give me a head start before I go poking around trying to figure it out?


----------



## Brackin4au

walk1355 said:


> StormTrooper86 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've got an issue with my John Deere 220SL. For some reason when I move the drive level forward after starting the engine just dies as the mower will only move a few feet. Engine starts easy and runs great when I engage the drive lever too fast or all the way the mower shuts off. Any thoughts?????
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is/was like this. There wasn't anything wrong with mine, I just kept trying to different engagement techniques until I figured it out. I can't slam mine into drive as it will die, I slowly engage it and start walking and it's fine. Maybe keep messing with it?
Click to expand...

Same here. Sounds exactly like mine. I also have to ease into the lever and start going gradually. I've figured out the right moment to put it all the way down and things go fine from there. If I ever drop it too quick though....dead. It's frustrating, but I've gotten used to it. I'm thinking it may be a grease issue that may resolve some over time. These auction mowers are a toss up on previous maintenance. And if they weren't greased properly, the extra strain to get the reel going may be too much on the engine. So maybe getting proper grease in the reel and drive mechanisms will help?? Who knows. We will see in due time I guess haha. Mine seems to have improved a tad after greasing. Could just be in my head though haha.


----------



## joeker

For those with the 220 E-Cut...

What setting is everyone using for their QA-5 limit chains? The manual says 7 links is the maximum float and rear roller drop. I've got a pretty uneven lawn from the builders grading the property poorly before installing the sod. What happens if I change it to 6 links? or 8 links??


----------



## ZachUA

Maybe silly question, but....when raising the HOC on a JD 220SL, is there a limiter that will stop you from continuing to turn the nut (when raising to the max) or will the roller assembly fall out of the bottom of the adjuster?


----------



## TonyC

ZachUA said:


> Maybe silly question, but....when raising the HOC on a JD 220SL, is there a limiter that will stop you from continuing to turn the nut (when raising to the max) or will the roller assembly fall out of the bottom of the adjuster?


On my 2011 JD 220SL, it will simply extend to the end of the threads, it could fall out if you have the roller off the ground, as there is no limiter or retention pin.

Maximum height with 1 thread holding is ~2.28 inches. At 2 inches there is more slop than I would feel comfortable mowing. First indication of lateral movement at 1.8 inches for me. Personally, I would stay under 1.5 inches.


----------



## TonyC

joeker said:


> For those with the 220 E-Cut...
> 
> What setting is everyone using for their QA-5 limit chains? The manual says 7 links is the maximum float and rear roller drop. I've got a pretty uneven lawn from the builders grading the property poorly before installing the sod. What happens if I change it to 6 links? or 8 links??


I find that the chain or rear linkage on a floating head mower is really about what is called Rear Roller Drop on Turns, and not so much about ground contours. That said, it could come into play when crossing areas where the WHOLE roller drops such as crossing a sprinkler line or drainage dip or new sod joints at a 90° angle. This could result in a scalped edge.

Here is the John Deere Operator Video that discusses the rear chain adjustment, at the 12:37 mark.

On my Jacobsen TC-22, it is a linkage arm. On that mower it also prevents the sliding joint on the drive shaft from extending to the point of separation.


----------



## ZachUA

TonyC said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe silly question, but....when raising the HOC on a JD 220SL, is there a limiter that will stop you from continuing to turn the nut (when raising to the max) or will the roller assembly fall out of the bottom of the adjuster?
> 
> 
> 
> On my 2011 JD 220SL, it will simply extend to the end of the threads, it could fall out if you have the roller off the ground, as there is no limiter or retention pin.
> 
> Maximum height with 1 thread holding is ~2.28 inches. At 2 inches there is more slop than I would feel comfortable mowing. First indication of lateral movement at 1.8 inches for me. Personally, I would stay under 1.5 inches.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

Unrelated to that, but is it possible to reduce the speed that the mower is rolling, other than just lowering the engine speed? So far I'm having to idle it up decently high to get the blade spinning fast enough to cut without bogging, but then at that speed the mower moves so fast it's difficult to keep up with at times.


----------



## Jacob_S

joeker said:


> For those with the 220 E-Cut...
> 
> What setting is everyone using for their QA-5 limit chains? The manual says 7 links is the maximum float and rear roller drop. I've got a pretty uneven lawn from the builders grading the property poorly before installing the sod. What happens if I change it to 6 links? or 8 links??


I'd have to look at mine, where I currently have it, I want to say I have it at 7 but moved the attach point to give less slack but it is not quite as tight as 6 links. I did at one point go to 6 links, it just limits the "float" a bit more, wont sag as much when picking up for turns. I actually plan on going back to 6 at some point but with the slack adjustment to allow more sag but not as much as 7 links, once the lawn is more level.


----------



## joeker

TonyC said:


> joeker said:
> 
> 
> 
> For those with the 220 E-Cut...
> 
> What setting is everyone using for their QA-5 limit chains? The manual says 7 links is the maximum float and rear roller drop. I've got a pretty uneven lawn from the builders grading the property poorly before installing the sod. What happens if I change it to 6 links? or 8 links??
> 
> 
> 
> I find that the chain or rear linkage on a floating head mower is really about what is called Rear Roller Drop on Turns, and not so much about ground contours. That said, it could come into play when crossing areas where the WHOLE roller drops such as crossing a sprinkler line or drainage dip or new sod joints at a 90° angle. This could result in a scalped edge.
> 
> Here is the John Deere Operator Video that discusses the rear chain adjustment, at the 12:37 mark.
> 
> On my Jacobsen TC-22, it is a linkage arm. On that mower it also prevents the sliding joint on the drive shaft from extending to the point of separation.
Click to expand...

Thanks @TonyC. I still owe you pics of my mower and yard. Just waiting for all my bermuda to come out of dormancy!

I've actually watched that video a couple times. I guess that part went over my head and I had a misunderstanding of the limit chains. Thanks for the clarification


----------



## TonyC

ZachUA said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Unrelated to that, but is it possible to reduce the speed that the mower is rolling, other than just lowering the engine speed? So far I'm having to idle it up decently high to get the blade spinning fast enough to cut without bogging, but then at that speed the mower moves so fast it's difficult to keep up with at times.


No, the speed is relative to engine RPM. The drive belt and drive chains are fixed gear ratios. You should be able to get the mowing RPM down to a comfortable walking speed (3.4 mph).

Either there is drag on the drive/reel systems, or the engine is not automatically responding with more fuel when load is applied (See engine Governor adjustment). Or your reel is not cutting properly and is instead eating grass. :mrgreen:

Check these things...

Are you trying to cut too much of the grass blade?


Grease all zerks. There are several bearings that could be putting drag on the drive & reel.

Disengage the differential drive lever. Can you turn the front drive shaft easily by hand when disengaged?

When turning the rear drive shaft by hand does the mower want to move?

Does the front drive pulley (belt) move freely? When the drive lever is moved, the belt tensioner takes up slack in the belt to engage. Is there any rusted bearings or sleeves?

Is the parking brake band dragging on the brake? If the brake cable is too tight it could be.

Does the reel move by hand? Don't cut yourself.

Is the Bedknife adjusted properly? (1/1000" - 2/1000" gap)

Pull the plastic side covers off. There are tension rollers on the drive and reel chains. Are they too tight? Are the chains rusted up? Is everything spinning without drag?

Is the speed governor linkage/spring working on the engine? The engine RPM should remain constant when load is added this is the mechanism that does that. There is an adjustment procedure in the JD Operators manual.

Does the main roller drum move freely. It has a differential in it to help when pivoting.

If your unit has a brush or groomer, disengage. Does that help?

Does the front roller spin freely? Check for drag

You might review a few of the previous posts in this topic, maybe there is something I'm not thinking of off the top of my head.


----------



## ZachUA

TonyC said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Unrelated to that, but is it possible to reduce the speed that the mower is rolling, other than just lowering the engine speed? So far I'm having to idle it up decently high to get the blade spinning fast enough to cut without bogging, but then at that speed the mower moves so fast it's difficult to keep up with at times.
> 
> 
> 
> No, the speed is relative to engine RPM. The drive belt and drive chains are fixed gear ratios. You should be able to get the mowing RPM down to a comfortable walking speed (3.4 mph).
> 
> Either there is drag on the drive/reel systems, or the engine is not automatically responding with more fuel when load is applied (See engine Governor adjustment). Or your reel is not cutting properly and is instead eating grass. :mrgreen:
> 
> Check these things...
> 
> Are you trying to cut too much of the grass blade?
> 
> 
> Grease all zerts. There are several bearings that could be putting drag on the drive & reel.
> 
> Disengage the differential drive lever. Can you turn the front drive shaft easily by hand when disengaged?
> 
> When turning the rear drive shaft by hand does the mower want to move?
> 
> Does the front drive pulley (belt) move freely? When the drive lever is moved, the belt tensioner takes up slack in the belt to engage. Is there any rusted bearings or sleeves?
> 
> Is the parking brake band dragging on the brake? If the brake cable is too tight it could be.
> 
> Does the reel move by hand? Don't cut yourself.
> 
> Is the Bedknife adjusted properly? (1/1000" - 2/1000" gap)
> 
> Pull the plastic side covers off. There are tension rollers on the drive and reel chains. Are they too tight? Are the chains rusted up? Is everything spinning without drag?
> 
> Is the speed governor linkage/spring working on the engine? The engine RPM should remain constant when load is added this is the mechanism that does that. There is an adjustment procedure in the JD Operators manual.
> 
> Does the main roller drum move freely. It has a differential in it to help when pivoting.
> 
> If your unit has a brush or groomer, disengage. Does that help?
> 
> Does the front roller spin freely? Check for drag
> 
> You might review a few of the previous posts in this topic, maybe there is something I'm not thinking of off the top of my head.
Click to expand...

Wow thank you for all this info! It may be a combination of the reel needing sharpening and me trying to cut off too much grass in one pass...or could be several other things you mentioned in conjunction with those two things. I greased the zerks on the ends of the reel but still need to grease the ones on the ends of the drive shaft and any others I missed.

I'll check all the other items you mentioned.


----------



## nathan99218

Does anyone know what I should so on my John Deere 180b I picked up. to adjust the reel to bedknife you rotate the adjusting knobs. mine are seized. I tried penetrating oil but no luck yet. Should I replace them or just keep trying to get them free?


----------



## StormTrooper86

Brackin4au said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> StormTrooper86 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've got an issue with my John Deere 220SL. For some reason when I move the drive level forward after starting the engine just dies as the mower will only move a few feet. Engine starts easy and runs great when I engage the drive lever too fast or all the way the mower shuts off. Any thoughts?????
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is/was like this. There wasn't anything wrong with mine, I just kept trying to different engagement techniques until I figured it out. I can't slam mine into drive as it will die, I slowly engage it and start walking and it's fine. Maybe keep messing with it?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Same here. Sounds exactly like mine. I also have to ease into the lever and start going gradually. I've figured out the right moment to put it all the way down and things go fine from there. If I ever drop it too quick though....dead. It's frustrating, but I've gotten used to it. I'm thinking it may be a grease issue that may resolve some over time. These auction mowers are a toss up on previous maintenance. And if they weren't greased properly, the extra strain to get the reel going may be too much on the engine. So maybe getting proper grease in the reel and drive mechanisms will help?? Who knows. We will see in due time I guess haha. Mine seems to have improved a tad after greasing. Could just be in my head though haha.
Click to expand...

I've figure the mower out now but dang that thing is much faster than what my McLane was. Wonder if there is a way to slow it down to a more comfortable speed?


----------



## walk1355

StormTrooper86 said:


> Brackin4au said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is/was like this. There wasn't anything wrong with mine, I just kept trying to different engagement techniques until I figured it out. I can't slam mine into drive as it will die, I slowly engage it and start walking and it's fine. Maybe keep messing with it?
> 
> 
> 
> Same here. Sounds exactly like mine. I also have to ease into the lever and start going gradually. I've figured out the right moment to put it all the way down and things go fine from there. If I ever drop it too quick though....dead. It's frustrating, but I've gotten used to it. I'm thinking it may be a grease issue that may resolve some over time. These auction mowers are a toss up on previous maintenance. And if they weren't greased properly, the extra strain to get the reel going may be too much on the engine. So maybe getting proper grease in the reel and drive mechanisms will help?? Who knows. We will see in due time I guess haha. Mine seems to have improved a tad after greasing. Could just be in my head though haha.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've figure the mower out now but dang that thing is much faster than what my McLane was. Wonder if there is a way to slow it down to a more comfortable speed?
Click to expand...

You should be able to slow the throttle enough to where you can walk slowly.


----------



## TonyC

nathan99218 said:


> Does anyone know what I should so on my John Deere 180b I picked up. to adjust the reel to bedknife you rotate the adjusting knobs. mine are seized. I tried penetrating oil but no luck yet. Should I replace them or just keep trying to get them free?


Make sure you loosen the pinch bolt at the mount first.


----------



## TonyC

walk1355 said:


> StormTrooper86 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brackin4au said:
> 
> 
> 
> Same here. Sounds exactly like mine. I also have to ease into the lever and start going gradually. I've figured out the right moment to put it all the way down and things go fine from there. If I ever drop it too quick though....dead. It's frustrating, but I've gotten used to it. I'm thinking it may be a grease issue that may resolve some over time. These auction mowers are a toss up on previous maintenance. And if they weren't greased properly, the extra strain to get the reel going may be too much on the engine. So maybe getting proper grease in the reel and drive mechanisms will help?? Who knows. We will see in due time I guess haha. Mine seems to have improved a tad after greasing. Could just be in my head though haha.
> 
> 
> 
> I've figure the mower out now but dang that thing is much faster than what my McLane was. Wonder if there is a way to slow it down to a more comfortable speed?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You should be able to slow the throttle enough to where you can walk slowly.
Click to expand...

@walk1355 is right. There is something wrong if you have to adjust (slow) your engagement speed. The engine and mower should be able to go straight to Engaged with a simple drive lever flip.

Maybe record what you're experiencing and share so we can here the engine speed/bog.


----------



## driver_7

Anyone have trouble pulling the mower backwards when the drive lever disengages after mowing a strip? I can pivot and turn 180-degrees without issue, but if I mow up to an object and want to pull the machine backwards, I can't. It rolls backwards freely when the reel engagement lever is set to "stop", but not "mow".

I thought I read someone else experiencing this previously, but my thread search efforts weren't yielding any posts, must be using the wrong terms in my search.


----------



## nathan99218

TonyC said:


> nathan99218 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what I should so on my John Deere 180b I picked up. to adjust the reel to bedknife you rotate the adjusting knobs. mine are seized. I tried penetrating oil but no luck yet. Should I replace them or just keep trying to get them free?
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure you loosen the pinch bolt at the mount first.
Click to expand...

I did make sure the pinch bolts were loose. I got some vice grips out and I can move them with that but not my hands. It seems to be really rusty on the spring and the t-bar part. maybe I just need to work them more. they probably haven't moved in a few years. the guy I bought it from said he hasn't used it in a few years. I'll try some more when I get off work today.


----------



## TonyC

nathan99218 said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nathan99218 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what I should so on my John Deere 180b I picked up. to adjust the reel to bedknife you rotate the adjusting knobs. mine are seized. I tried penetrating oil but no luck yet. Should I replace them or just keep trying to get them free?
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure you loosen the pinch bolt at the mount first.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I did make sure the pinch bolts were loose. I got some vice grips out and I can move them with that but not my hands. It seems to be really rusty on the spring and the t-bar part. maybe I just need to work them more. they probably haven't moved in a few years. the guy I bought it from said he hasn't used it in a few years. I'll try some more when I get off work today.
Click to expand...

The T Bolt has 2 inches of fine threads (for micro adjustments), it is also down in one of the wettest places on these mowers and likely has never been maintained. You can see that mine is very pitted from rust as well. If you can turn it, I would disassemble and clean up the threads the best you can, maybe use a liquid rust removal solution as well to get up inside the Bedknife Adjuster . Then put anti-seize on the threads when reassembled.


----------



## TonyC

717driver said:


> Anyone have trouble pulling the mower backwards when the drive lever disengages after mowing a strip? I can pivot and turn 180-degrees without issue, but if I mow up to an object and want to pull the machine backwards, I can't. It rolls backwards freely when the reel engagement lever is set to "stop", but not "mow".
> 
> I thought I read someone else experiencing this previously, but my thread search efforts weren't yielding any posts, must be using the wrong terms in my search.


I would say that this is normal. The main differential behaves similar to the differential in a car allowing the main roller drum halves to rotate at different speeds to assist with turning. This is why you can turn 180° without issue. Each half of the drum is chain driven on each side of the differential output shaft. If one spins forward, the other wants to spin backwards due to the differential assembly (T). As soon as you attempt to pull the mower backwards, then both sides are turning the output shaft in the same direction. The rest of this is like the gearing on a 10 speed (probably showing my age here). This forces the gearing inside of the differential assembly (T) to spin the left side chain in a clockwise rotation. You can see in the image that then load would be put on the bottom of the chain drive pulling against the guide pin on the bottom (adding friction), and then around the middle gear sprocket (S), and then again from the large drive engagement sprocket of (Q) to the small sprocket of the R shaft. These gearing ratios are working against you, but is also what allows a simple 4 HP motor to drive a 220 lb mower up an incline. The last little bit of friction is on the drive input pulley which is ever so slightly dragging against the drive belts making it almost impossible to move the differential in reverse. It's possible to pull the mower backwards, but mechanically you have multiple forces working against you.



To mow up to an object should be handled with the outer cleanup passes.

Cheers!


----------



## nathan99218

TonyC said:


> nathan99218 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure you loosen the pinch bolt at the mount first.
> 
> 
> 
> I did make sure the pinch bolts were loose. I got some vice grips out and I can move them with that but not my hands. It seems to be really rusty on the spring and the t-bar part. maybe I just need to work them more. they probably haven't moved in a few years. the guy I bought it from said he hasn't used it in a few years. I'll try some more when I get off work today.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The T Bolt has 2 inches of fine threads (for micro adjustments), it is also down in one of the wettest places on these mowers and likely has never been maintained. You can see that mine is very pitted from rust as well. If you can turn it, I would disassemble and clean up the threads the best you can, maybe use a liquid rust removal solution as well to get up inside the Bedknife Adjuster . Then put anti-seize on the threads when reassembled.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information @TonyC This has been a lot of help I will try and take it apart this weekend and clean everything up. Is it a lot of work to take it apart? Also on the knobs when you turn them do they click? I was watching a video on it and they said they move them a few clicks. from what I got turning I did not feel or hear a click. I don't know if I'm crazy but I think if its a screw that moves it there will be no clicks. haha sorry for all the questions I'm a newbe at this reel mowing stuff.


----------



## TonyC

@nathan99218 You'll see plenty of JD mowers out there where the knob is gone. So try to coax it along or the left in this picture will look like the right. If it's frozen up, I wouldn't torque on the plastic knob, or it's sure to break off. I'd continue to use vice-grips if that moves the adjuster. Note that the nut on the right adjuster is fixed. You want the black shaft to turn.


----------



## nathan99218

TonyC said:


> @nathan99218 You'll see plenty of JD mowers out there where the knob is gone. So try to coax it along or the left in this picture will look like the right. If it's frozen up, I wouldn't torque on the plastic knob, or it's sure to break off. I'd continue to use vice-grips if that moves the adjuster. Note that the nut on the right adjuster is fixed. You want the black shaft to turn.


@TonyC I ended up breaking it free last night and got it cleaned up. I ended up having to heat it up with the torch and moving it side to side with the vice grips. After that it gave up and I could move it! Thanks for the help and information! I'm also sure I used a can of PB Blaster on it. :lol: now its time to backlap it and see if it cuts. The bedkinife and reel don't look like they are in too bad of shape. or hope I can find someone in my area that can sharpen the reel for me.


----------



## driver_7

TonyC said:


> 717driver said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have trouble pulling the mower backwards when the drive lever disengages after mowing a strip? I can pivot and turn 180-degrees without issue, but if I mow up to an object and want to pull the machine backwards, I can't. It rolls backwards freely when the reel engagement lever is set to "stop", but not "mow".
> 
> I thought I read someone else experiencing this previously, but my thread search efforts weren't yielding any posts, must be using the wrong terms in my search.
> 
> 
> 
> I would say that this is normal. The main differential behaves similar to the differential in a car allowing the main roller drum halves to rotate at different speeds to assist with turning. This is why you can turn 180° without issue. Each half of the drum is chain driven on each side of the differential output shaft. If one spins forward, the other wants to spin backwards due to the differential assembly (T). As soon as you attempt to pull the mower backwards, then both sides are turning the output shaft in the same direction. The rest of this is like the gearing on a 10 speed (probably showing my age here). This forces the gearing inside of the differential assembly (T) to spin the left side chain in a clockwise rotation. You can see in the image that then load would be put on the bottom of the chain drive pulling against the guide pin on the bottom (adding friction), and then around the middle gear sprocket (S), and then again from the large drive engagement sprocket of (Q) to the small sprocket of the R shaft. These gearing ratios are working against you, but is also what allows a simple 4 HP motor to drive a 220 lb mower up an incline. The last little bit of friction is on the drive input pulley which is ever so slightly dragging against the drive belts making it almost impossible to move the differential in reverse. It's possible to pull the mower backwards, but mechanically you have multiple forces working against you.
> 
> 
> 
> To mow up to an object should be handled with the outer cleanup passes.
> 
> Cheers!
Click to expand...

This is why I love TLF! Thank you @TonyC! Excellent explanation. It sounds like everything is functioning properly, I'm just an idiot and didn't understand the machine. Thank you, again!


----------



## TonyC

717driver said:


> This is why I love TLF! Thank you @TonyC! Excellent explanation. It sounds like everything is functioning properly, I'm just an idiot and didn't understand the machine. Thank you, again!


Considering your Aviator avatar (Save the Mad Dogs) I think you probably understand these things better than most. You just haven't taken one apart yet. :thumbup:

Cheers!

Tony
ASEL IFR


----------



## Michael303

Bump for my issue.



Michael303 said:


> Unfortunately releasing my presence bar doesn't disengage the clutch and I have to manually pull the clutch handle back. Has anyone else run into this? Anyone familiar enough with the system to give me a head start before I go poking around trying to figure it out?


----------



## TonyC

Michael303 said:


> Bump for my issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Michael303 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately releasing my presence bar doesn't disengage the clutch and I have to manually pull the clutch handle back. Has anyone else run into this? Anyone familiar enough with the system to give me a head start before I go poking around trying to figure it out?
Click to expand...

Double check the return spring under the belt safety cover. It's the bottom spring.



Here it is under tension.


----------



## Michael303

TonyC said:


> Double check the return spring under the belt safety cover. It's the bottom spring.


Thanks for the reply @TonyC! That was it.

When I first started messing with my mower last week that cable popped out of the retainer on the clutch bracket and the spring came off. I never saw the spring there in the first place so I didn't know it was missing when I put the cable back in the bracket.

I actually found the spring resting on the top of the cylinder up against the rear of the frame. I've mowed twice and it was still sitting there. Pretty lucky that I didn't lose it in the lawn and mow it up.

Thanks again!


----------



## TonyC

@Michael303 - Lucky Dog! Happy to hear it's working for you. :thumbup:


----------



## ga_dawg

I've got an 11 blade 220e, mowing at 1cm bench hoc, and I'm having a bit of washboarding. Reading the manual it seems like my foc may be too slow, so tried adjusting it faster. The foc adjustment dial on my mower does not have a label like the one in the manual. Should I be able to hear or see a speed difference in the reel? It didn't seem to make a difference when I adjusted the dial in either direction.


----------



## Don_Bass

Bed Knife Replacement On Jd180B. Any Tips On How To Do?.


----------



## Michael303

Don_Bass said:


> Bed Knife Replacement On Jd180B. Any Tips On How To Do?.


I've never done it but the manual says it's basically unscrew and replace. You can find the manuals for the C and SL models here.

http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual

The B models should be very similar I'm guessing.


----------



## Michael303

Yesterday I tried to lower the HOC on my 180SL but the height didn't seem to change at all after quite a bit of turning. I've got it set a 1 inch right now so I don't think it's pushed out all the way. I'd be surprised if it's stripped since neither side would move.

Is disassembly any more involved other than taking off the square nuts on top?


----------



## 985arrowhead

considering a groomer for my 180 is it worth it? anyone know a source? Or seems cheaper just to find one with a groomer already installed!


----------



## TonyC

Michael303 said:


> Yesterday I tried to lower the HOC on my 180SL but the height didn't seem to change at all after quite a bit of turning. I've got it set a 1 inch right now so I don't think it's pushed out all the way. I'd be surprised if it's stripped since neither side would move.
> 
> Is disassembly any more involved other than taking off the square nuts on top?


It's not difficult. Go ahead and pull the caps and you'll see it's basically a worm gear. There are three spring washers. Make sure they are in the right orientation. You can look at a parts diagram to understand the components.


----------



## Pete1313

Michael303 said:


> Yesterday I tried to lower the HOC on my 180SL but the height didn't seem to change at all after quite a bit of turning. I've got it set a 1 inch right now so I don't think it's pushed out all the way. I'd be surprised if it's stripped since neither side would move.
> 
> Is disassembly any more involved other than taking off the square nuts on top?


How much is "quite q bit of turning"? The reason I ask is due to the worm gear design, and I dont know the exact number, but it will take something like 100 or more revolutions on the adjuster to move the HOC 1/8". Also when you adjust it make sure you use a drill and not an impact driver to avoid damaging the gears.


----------



## Michael303

Pete1313 said:


> How much is "quite q bit of turning"? The reason I ask is due to the worm gear design, and I dont know the exact number, but it will take something like 100 or more revolutions on the adjuster to move the HOC 1/8". Also when you adjust it make sure you use a drill and not an impact driver to avoid damaging the gears.


It felt like a lot but I was just turning it with a wrench at first. I got out the drill but the battery died right away. I'll give it another go tomorrow with a fresh battery. Thanks!



TonyC said:


> It's not difficult. Go ahead and pull the caps and you'll see it's basically a worm gear. There are three spring washers. Make sure they are in the right orientation. You can look at a parts diagram to understand the components.


Good to hear. Hopefully, I've just underestimated how much turning it really needs and I won't have to open it up yet. Thanks!


----------



## Michael303

Pete1313 said:


> How much is "quite q bit of turning"? The reason I ask is due to the worm gear design, and I dont know the exact number, but it will take something like 100 or more revolutions on the adjuster to move the HOC 1/8". Also when you adjust it make sure you use a drill and not an impact driver to avoid damaging the gears.


The drill was the ticket. Even with the drill, I couldn't see it moving but could only tell by putting my finger on the roller height bar. Thanks!


----------



## Pete1313

Michael303 said:


> The drill was the ticket. Even with the drill, I couldn't see it moving but could only tell by putting my finger on the roller height bar. Thanks!


Glad nothing is broken and everything worked out! :thumbsup:


----------



## J_nick

Pete1313 said:


> Michael303 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The drill was the ticket. Even with the drill, I couldn't see it moving but could only tell by putting my finger on the roller height bar. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Glad nothing is broken and everything worked out! :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Is the SL adjustment like the QA5 heads without the speedlink? I know my 220B I turn it by hand and can easily see it moving but those QA5's you could eat a sandwich while waiting for the drill to move it


----------



## Pete1313

J_nick said:


> Is the SL adjustment like the QA5 heads without the speedlink? I know my 220B I turn it by hand and can easily see it moving but those QA5's you could eat a sandwich while waiting for the drill to move it


Eat a sandwich while waiting.. :lol: 
The SL adjustment is exactly the same as the QA5. The internal worm gear pieces are the same part numbers as well. They both should have the speedlink bar also unless it is missing.


----------



## Brackin4au

This is good info. I have an SL and noticed the same thing. Lot of turning and no movement (so it seemed). I have the speedlink bar, but it's seized in the storage position. Haven't had a chance to try and get it popped loose.


----------



## joeker

Having trouble with my 220 E-Cut.

My reel won't consistently turn over/engage. I follow the protocol to get the reel to engage, but often times as soon as I push the throttle lever forward, the reel will begin spinning for 1 second but stop. I have to disengage/re-engage the PTO switch and try the clutch lever again until it'll finally kick over and continue to spin. Increasing the throttle doesn't seem to help. 
Ideas??


----------



## TonyC

joeker said:


> Having trouble with my 220 E-Cut.
> 
> My reel won't consistently turn over/engage. I follow the protocol to get the reel to engage, but often times as soon as I push the throttle lever forward, the reel will begin spinning for 1 second but stop. I have to disengage/re-engage the PTO switch and try the clutch lever again until it'll finally kick over and continue to spin. Increasing the throttle doesn't seem to help.
> Ideas??


Are you aware of any Diagnostic Trouble Codes or Fault Codes being displayed?


----------



## joeker

TonyC said:


> joeker said:
> 
> 
> 
> Having trouble with my 220 E-Cut.
> 
> My reel won't consistently turn over/engage. I follow the protocol to get the reel to engage, but often times as soon as I push the throttle lever forward, the reel will begin spinning for 1 second but stop. I have to disengage/re-engage the PTO switch and try the clutch lever again until it'll finally kick over and continue to spin. Increasing the throttle doesn't seem to help.
> Ideas??
> 
> 
> 
> Are you aware of any Diagnostic Trouble Codes or Fault Codes being displayed?
Click to expand...

@TonyC not that I'm aware of. The diagnostic light turns off then back on, and then stays off. I'll have to record it--Maybe there's something I'm missing. I plan on cleaning out all the electrical contacts tomorrow to rule that out as well


----------



## Bmossin

985arrowhead said:


> considering a groomer for my 180 is it worth it? anyone know a source? Or seems cheaper just to find one with a groomer already installed!


I'm curious about this exact same thing. I found the kit and it's over $500...I'm one of those lucky people who paid less than that for my 180!


----------



## Don_Bass

Michael303 said:


> Don_Bass said:
> 
> 
> 
> Bed Knife Replacement On Jd180B. Any Tips On How To Do?.
> 
> 
> 
> I've never done it but the manual says it's basically unscrew and replace. You can find the manuals for the C and SL models here.
> 
> http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual
> 
> The B models should be very similar I'm guessing.
Click to expand...

Thanks man!


----------



## g-man

@joeker only two thing will stop the reel if it was moving. 1) too much torque at the electric motor. It will do this if a piece of mulch gets into the reel. With the machine off, you should be able to rotate the reel by hand. 2) rpm drops too much. The rpm is detected by the alternator. If your belts are worn or loose, it might slip on that pulley. Also, when you engage the drive, the belts will flex and it could slow the rpm. Make sure to feather the drive.


----------



## joeker

@g-man the reel rotates freely by hand. Are we talking about the V-Belt specifically? I'm thinking about replacing it as it looks pretty old. 








Is it possible there is an issue with the PTO switch? I do recall when I first received the mower from auction, I was having problems even getting the reel to activate due to the terminals/connections on the PTO switch-- I may have to revisit this as a potential source of the issue.


----------



## TonyC

@joeker
You mention the light goes on then off, so there is not a flashing sequence?

Since you're having to disengage and then engage the PTO switch, I'm thinking the electronics must be sensing a problem (ie - reel not turning) and triggering a stop. The manual says there could be a code that you need a scanner to check.


----------



## joeker

TonyC said:


> @joeker
> You mention the light goes on then off, so there is not a flashing sequence?
> 
> Since you're having to disengage and then engage the PTO switch, I'm thinking the electronics must be sensing a problem (ie - reel not turning) and triggering a stop. The manual says there could be a code that you need a scanner to check.


@TonyC There is not a flashing sequence. Yes, I've read that too and was hoping this would not be the case as the local dealers charge a minimum of $250 to diagnose these greens mowers. When I received the mower from the auction, I noticed the electrical wiring conduits were unwrapped and it looks like someone really went at the wiring. It may be cheaper to replace all the wiring harnesses as a potential source of the issue.


----------



## g-man

That belt drives the drum. There other belt drives the alternator.

From those messages above: jammed reel, alternator belt slipping, rpm too low.

To give you some peace of mind, set the machine to backlap and let it run for 5min. This should prove it is not electrical signals.


----------



## joeker

g-man said:


> That belt drives the drum. There other belt drives the alternator.
> 
> From those messages above: jammed reel, alternator belt slipping, rpm too low.
> 
> To give you some peace of mind, set the machine to backlap and let it run for 5min. This should prove it is not electrical signals.


True! As I recall, backlapping has not been an issue.

Side question:
I threw off the parallel adjustment on my QA5 when I was adjusting the cutting height brackets. I've read the tech manual and watched the videos on paralleling(?) the reel to the front roller. Is there an alternative to using a bench plate? The second portion is making the front roller parallel to the bed knife using a HOC gauge bar. Does this serve the same purpose??

5:46 to 8:10


----------



## Pete1313

@joeker, yes the second part of the video that shows paralleling the front roller with a HOC bar serves the same purpose. It is how I parallel the front rollers on my QA5 heads.

Even though I'm not paralleling the front roller in this pic, you can see the bar I made for that purpose.


----------



## joeker

Pete1313 said:


> @joeker, yes the second part of the video that shows paralleling the front roller with a HOC bar serves the same purpose. It is how I parallel the front rollers on my QA5 heads.
> 
> Even though I'm not paralleling the front roller in this pic, you can see the bar I made for that purpose.


@Pete1313 thanks!!


----------



## ZachUA

My JD260SL needs and oil change. What oil do you guys recommend? What about the trans fluid? Might as well change both.


----------



## SantiCazorla

It's overkill but I like to use Mobile One Synthetic in my 260sl.

Transmission fluid I've yet to touch.


----------



## ZachUA

SantiCazorla said:


> It's overkill but I like to use Mobile One Synthetic in my 260sl.
> 
> Transmission fluid I've yet to touch.


Thank you! 10w30?


----------



## SantiCazorla

ZachUA said:


> SantiCazorla said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's overkill but I like to use Mobile One Synthetic in my 260sl.
> 
> Transmission fluid I've yet to touch.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you! 10w30?
Click to expand...

Yep


----------



## ZachUA

SantiCazorla said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SantiCazorla said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's overkill but I like to use Mobile One Synthetic in my 260sl.
> 
> Transmission fluid I've yet to touch.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you! 10w30?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yep
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I may be replacing the reel on this machine here soon. Any thoughts on number of blades to go with? Looking to keep lawn cut either 1/2" or 3/4". Doubt I'll ever go lower.


----------



## Pete1313

ZachUA said:


> I may be replacing the reel on this machine here soon. Any thoughts on number of blades to go with? Looking to keep lawn cut either 1/2" or 3/4". Doubt I'll ever go lower.


No question, get the 7-blade.


----------



## Brackin4au

I'm curious if I need to parallel my front roller also. I noticed when looking straight at the mower, something just seems a little off visually. But when I check HOC it is equal on both sides. I'm terrible with leveling picture frames on the wall, so I just assumed I wasn't seeing it properly, but maybe I'm out of parallel? I just keep rolling with it since the HOC comes out equal on both sides...


----------



## joeker

Brackin4au said:


> I'm curious if I need to parallel my front roller also. I noticed when looking straight at the mower, something just seems a little off visually. But when I check HOC it is equal on both sides. I'm terrible with leveling picture frames on the wall, so I just assumed I wasn't seeing it properly, but maybe I'm out of parallel? I just keep rolling with it since the HOC comes out equal on both sides...


Same. Grass looks like it's leaving skip marks. I put the FOC on the highest setting as I mow at 0.75"


----------



## stepper

Still struggling getting my JD 220B running right. Changed all of the fluids, carb, spark plug, and governor spring. Then cleaned out the main jet as @Pete1313 suggested. Initial problem was getting it to run with the choke closed. Now it will, but shuts off without even giving me a chance to open the choke. Any advice?


----------



## walk1355

stepper said:


> Still struggling getting my JD 220B running right. Changed all of the fluids, carb, spark plug, and governor spring. Then cleaned out the main jet as Pete1313 suggested. Initial problem was getting it to run with the choke closed. Now it will, but shuts off without even giving me a chance to open the choke. Any advice?


Buy an aftermarket carb and be done with it. I had all kinds of issues with my 260sl. Ordered this carb from amazon and it's ran like a champ ever since. It's so cheap it may be worth it to you just to replace it to see if this fixes it.


----------



## mantnyh

@stepper I'd change the carb. Mine done the same thing. I cleaned everything just like you. Ordered a cheap carburator off Amazon and low and behold it worked first crank.


----------



## stepper

walk1355 said:


> stepper said:
> 
> 
> 
> Still struggling getting my JD 220B running right. Changed all of the fluids, carb, spark plug, and governor spring. Then cleaned out the main jet as Pete1313 suggested. Initial problem was getting it to run with the choke closed. Now it will, but shuts off without even giving me a chance to open the choke. Any advice?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buy an aftermarket carb and be done with it. I had all kinds of issues with my 260sl. Ordered this carb from amazon and it's ran like a champ ever since. It's so cheap it may be worth it to you just to replace it to see if this fixes it.
Click to expand...

Already replaced it. Could replace it with another one, but that seems a little silly.


----------



## stepper

mantnyh said:


> @stepper I'd change the carb. Mine done the same thing. I cleaned everything just like you. Ordered a cheap carburator off Amazon and low and behold it worked first crank.


Already did. This is the new one.


----------



## walk1355

stepper said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stepper said:
> 
> 
> 
> Still struggling getting my JD 220B running right. Changed all of the fluids, carb, spark plug, and governor spring. Then cleaned out the main jet as Pete1313 suggested. Initial problem was getting it to run with the choke closed. Now it will, but shuts off without even giving me a chance to open the choke. Any advice?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buy an aftermarket carb and be done with it. I had all kinds of issues with my 260sl. Ordered this carb from amazon and it's ran like a champ ever since. It's so cheap it may be worth it to you just to replace it to see if this fixes it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Already replaced it. Could replace it with another one, but that seems a little silly.
Click to expand...

Look up a Honda gx120 Engine diagram. Make 1000% sure you have all the carburetor gaskets and spacers.

The way it's dying could be because there is too much oxygen being sucked in, which is a very similar symptom of it being fuel starved. If your carb is good the spacers and gaskets would be my second guess.

If all that's right, next I'd look at the fuel filter. You'll have to drain the gas and remove the fuel tank. The filter screws into the bottom corner of the tank. Honestly, if you're going to go through the trouble of draining the fuel and removing the tank just go ahead and replace the filter. They are $2-$3 or something like that.

Could also be the governor spring. Make sure it's in the right location.

If it ain't none of that I can't be of anymore help.


----------



## stepper

walk1355 said:


> stepper said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Buy an aftermarket carb and be done with it. I had all kinds of issues with my 260sl. Ordered this carb from amazon and it's ran like a champ ever since. It's so cheap it may be worth it to you just to replace it to see if this fixes it.
> 
> 
> 
> Already replaced it. Could replace it with another one, but that seems a little silly.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Look up a Honda gx120 Engine diagram. Make 1000% sure you have all the carburetor gaskets and spacers.
> 
> The way it's dying could be because there is too much oxygen being sucked in, which is a very similar symptom of it being fuel starved. If your carb is good the spacers and gaskets would be my second guess.
> 
> If all that's right, next I'd look at the fuel filter. You'll have to drain the gas and remove the fuel tank. The filter screws into the bottom corner of the tank. Honestly, if you're going to go through the trouble of draining the fuel and removing the tank just go ahead and replace the filter. They are $2-$3 or something like that.
> 
> Could also be the governor spring. Make sure it's in the right location.
> 
> If it ain't none of that I can't be of anymore help.
Click to expand...

Awesome. Thanks man I'll check that out. I checked the spacers today and they looked good. I haven't removed the fuel tank yet, so I'll check that out.


----------



## walk1355

stepper said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stepper said:
> 
> 
> 
> Already replaced it. Could replace it with another one, but that seems a little silly.
> 
> 
> 
> Look up a Honda gx120 Engine diagram. Make 1000% sure you have all the carburetor gaskets and spacers.
> 
> The way it's dying could be because there is too much oxygen being sucked in, which is a very similar symptom of it being fuel starved. If your carb is good the spacers and gaskets would be my second guess.
> 
> If all that's right, next I'd look at the fuel filter. You'll have to drain the gas and remove the fuel tank. The filter screws into the bottom corner of the tank. Honestly, if you're going to go through the trouble of draining the fuel and removing the tank just go ahead and replace the filter. They are $2-$3 or something like that.
> 
> Could also be the governor spring. Make sure it's in the right location.
> 
> If it ain't none of that I can't be of anymore help.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Awesome. Thanks man I'll check that out. I checked the spacers today and they looked good. I haven't removed the fuel tank yet, so I'll check that out.
Click to expand...

Make sure you have all the gaskets and spacers. Some could be missing that you never knew were there.


----------



## g-man

@stepper that sounded like the governor is not set correctly. It is a pain to get to it underneath the tank.


----------



## stepper

g-man said:


> @stepper that sounded like the governor is not set correctly. It is a pain to get to it underneath the tank.


Should be easier when I take the tank off. I did have trouble setting it with the tank in the way. Thanks @g-man


----------



## ZachUA

Pete1313 said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> I may be replacing the reel on this machine here soon. Any thoughts on number of blades to go with? Looking to keep lawn cut either 1/2" or 3/4". Doubt I'll ever go lower.
> 
> 
> 
> No question, get the 7-blade.
Click to expand...

Hi Pete, I've read that the lower number blades increase the FOC or do I have that backwards? I do get a little bit of washboarding right now with the original blade.

If I switch to a 7 blade setup, what will be my optimal HOC range?


----------



## TonyC

stepper said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stepper said:
> 
> 
> 
> Already replaced it. Could replace it with another one, but that seems a little silly.
> 
> 
> 
> Look up a Honda gx120 Engine diagram. Make 1000% sure you have all the carburetor gaskets and spacers.
> 
> The way it's dying could be because there is too much oxygen being sucked in, which is a very similar symptom of it being fuel starved. If your carb is good the spacers and gaskets would be my second guess.
> 
> If all that's right, next I'd look at the fuel filter. You'll have to drain the gas and remove the fuel tank. The filter screws into the bottom corner of the tank. Honestly, if you're going to go through the trouble of draining the fuel and removing the tank just go ahead and replace the filter. They are $2-$3 or something like that.
> 
> Could also be the governor spring. Make sure it's in the right location.
> 
> If it ain't none of that I can't be of anymore help.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Awesome. Thanks man I'll check that out. I checked the spacers today and they looked good. I haven't removed the fuel tank yet, so I'll check that out.
Click to expand...

@stepper I'm a little confused which carb you have installed now. If it's the original, then there are some additional cleaning points such as the idle/pilot jet, and the main fuel screen that may of been overlooked. My money is on the idle jet.

A carburetor is very simple, but yet terribly complex equation of fuel delivery. The bottom line is how it meters fuel at idle (low rpm), and how it steps things up under load (high rpm). You appear to have an issue on the idle side of the equation. By using the Choke you are creating a vacuum that artificially pulls fuel through the main jet (high side) to compensate for a clogged idle jet. I would start by cleaning out the idle jet. There are several YT videos (this one at 4:56) out there on that.



If it is searching/surging then start to look at the Governor linkage. This only comes into play after the engine will run, but not smoothly. Is it moving in sync with the rpms? You should be able to see the linkage moving and shutting down the throttle butterfly. Hold your finger on the governor arm and push towards the rear of the mower. Do the RPMs steady and increase? How to Adjust

Bottom line, we should be able to isolate this issue pretty easily.

Cheers!


----------



## stepper

TonyC said:


> stepper said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Look up a Honda gx120 Engine diagram. Make 1000% sure you have all the carburetor gaskets and spacers.
> 
> The way it's dying could be because there is too much oxygen being sucked in, which is a very similar symptom of it being fuel starved. If your carb is good the spacers and gaskets would be my second guess.
> 
> If all that's right, next I'd look at the fuel filter. You'll have to drain the gas and remove the fuel tank. The filter screws into the bottom corner of the tank. Honestly, if you're going to go through the trouble of draining the fuel and removing the tank just go ahead and replace the filter. They are $2-$3 or something like that.
> 
> Could also be the governor spring. Make sure it's in the right location.
> 
> If it ain't none of that I can't be of anymore help.
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome. Thanks man I'll check that out. I checked the spacers today and they looked good. I haven't removed the fuel tank yet, so I'll check that out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @stepper I'm a little confused which carb you have installed now. If it's the original, then there are some additional cleaning points such as the idle/pilot jet, and the main fuel screen that may of been overlooked. My money is on the idle jet.
> 
> A carburetor is very simple, but yet terribly complex equation of fuel delivery. The bottom line is how it meters fuel at idle (low rpm), and how it steps things up under load (high rpm). You appear to have an issue on the idle side of the equation. By using the Choke you are creating a vacuum that artificially pulls fuel through the main jet (high side) to compensate for a clogged idle jet. I would start by cleaning out the idle jet. There are several YT videos (this one at 4:56) out there on that.
> 
> 
> 
> If it is searching/surging then start to look at the Governor linkage. This only comes into play after the engine will run, but not smoothly. Is it moving in sync with the rpms? You should be able to see the linkage moving and shutting down the throttle butterfly. Hold your finger on the governor arm and push towards the rear of the mower. Do the RPMs steady and increase? How to Adjust
> 
> Bottom line, we should be able to isolate this issue pretty easily.
> 
> Cheers!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response @TonyC

I replaced the old carb with a new one. It wouldn't start at all before I did that. Sorry I wasn't clear. This is the new carb: HIPA Replace Carburetor with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WPSE934?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'll follow your advice on the governor and see what happens.


----------



## walk1355

stepper said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stepper said:
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome. Thanks man I'll check that out. I checked the spacers today and they looked good. I haven't removed the fuel tank yet, so I'll check that out.
> 
> 
> 
> @stepper I'm a little confused which carb you have installed now. If it's the original, then there are some additional cleaning points such as the idle/pilot jet, and the main fuel screen that may of been overlooked. My money is on the idle jet.
> 
> A carburetor is very simple, but yet terribly complex equation of fuel delivery. The bottom line is how it meters fuel at idle (low rpm), and how it steps things up under load (high rpm). You appear to have an issue on the idle side of the equation. By using the Choke you are creating a vacuum that artificially pulls fuel through the main jet (high side) to compensate for a clogged idle jet. I would start by cleaning out the idle jet. There are several YT videos (this one at 4:56) out there on that.
> 
> 
> 
> If it is searching/surging then start to look at the Governor linkage. This only comes into play after the engine will run, but not smoothly. Is it moving in sync with the rpms? You should be able to see the linkage moving and shutting down the throttle butterfly. Hold your finger on the governor arm and push towards the rear of the mower. Do the RPMs steady and increase? How to Adjust
> 
> Bottom line, we should be able to isolate this issue pretty easily.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the response @TonyC
> 
> I replaced the old carb with a new one. It wouldn't start at all before I did that. Sorry I wasn't clear. This is the new carb: HIPA Replace Carburetor with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WPSE934?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
> 
> I'll follow your advice on the governor and see what happens.
Click to expand...

That's a carb for a Honda GX160. I know all 5 of the JD green's mowers I've worked on all have GX120 engines. I don't think those carbs are interchangable.

That may be your problem. The new carb you purchased may be the wrong one.


----------



## stepper

walk1355 said:


> stepper said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> @stepper I'm a little confused which carb you have installed now. If it's the original, then there are some additional cleaning points such as the idle/pilot jet, and the main fuel screen that may of been overlooked. My money is on the idle jet.
> 
> A carburetor is very simple, but yet terribly complex equation of fuel delivery. The bottom line is how it meters fuel at idle (low rpm), and how it steps things up under load (high rpm). You appear to have an issue on the idle side of the equation. By using the Choke you are creating a vacuum that artificially pulls fuel through the main jet (high side) to compensate for a clogged idle jet. I would start by cleaning out the idle jet. There are several YT videos (this one at 4:56) out there on that.
> 
> 
> 
> If it is searching/surging then start to look at the Governor linkage. This only comes into play after the engine will run, but not smoothly. Is it moving in sync with the rpms? You should be able to see the linkage moving and shutting down the throttle butterfly. Hold your finger on the governor arm and push towards the rear of the mower. Do the RPMs steady and increase? How to Adjust
> 
> Bottom line, we should be able to isolate this issue pretty easily.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response @TonyC
> 
> I replaced the old carb with a new one. It wouldn't start at all before I did that. Sorry I wasn't clear. This is the new carb: HIPA Replace Carburetor with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WPSE934?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
> 
> I'll follow your advice on the governor and see what happens.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's a carb for a Honda GX160. I know all 5 of the JD green's mowers I've worked on all have GX120 engines. I don't think those carbs are interchangable.
> 
> That may be your problem. The new carb you purchased may be the wrong one.
Click to expand...

That's what I get for ordering first and asking second...I'll order the one you sent


----------



## Jrich

Anyone know how hard it is to remove the entire GTC (including GTC gear case)? When I got the mower this was already broken. I was able to sandwich the GTC in place with the side nut for a while, but it is now a problem and is cutting and lifting stolons when mowing at 0.5". 



Also anyone got a better idea for a temporary solution?


----------



## g-man

To remove it, you will need to buy the metal cover. You can buy that housing to fix it.

As a temporary, turn the gtc off and use a tie to grab the whole housing (by the on/off switch) and lift it up tied to the spring up/down but.


----------



## Pete1313

The housing @g-man mentioned is #33 in this part diagram.
https://greenfarmparts.com/parts-di...nal_Equipment/3105030002/10503D471C0909500004
Part # TCA19986 and is just over $60.

If you decide to just remove the GTC and get the metal cover, make sure you get the appropriate spacer that goes by the reel bearing compression spring. Otherwise you will need to modify the GTC gear that is there to get the cover to fit over it.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

What would be a good price to buy a 2006 180B with catcher?


----------



## Jrich

Thanks for the tip @g-man . Going to do that.

@Pete1313 Just to clarify this is the part you are talking about?


----------



## Pete1313

@Jrich yep, that's the one!


----------



## Jrich

Pete1313 said:


> @Jrich yep, that's the one!


Thanks for your help. Think it will be a pain to change out?


----------



## Pete1313

Jrich said:


> Thanks for your help. Think it will be a pain to change out?


I personally dont think so, but it depends on your mechanical skill level. Nuts, bolts, and snap rings... I've only taken QA5 GTCs apart and these look alittle different, but as long as you pay attention when taking it apart you should be able to get it replaced and put back together. If you do replace it, get a new gasket as well.


----------



## g-man

You will likely need 37 (seal), since they break when you take it out. Get the bolt that you are missing too.


----------



## Brackin4au

ZachUA said:


> Pete1313 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> I may be replacing the reel on this machine here soon. Any thoughts on number of blades to go with? Looking to keep lawn cut either 1/2" or 3/4". Doubt I'll ever go lower.
> 
> 
> 
> No question, get the 7-blade.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hi Pete, I've read that the lower number blades increase the FOC or do I have that backwards? I do get a little bit of washboarding right now with the original blade.
> 
> If I switch to a 7 blade setup, what will be my optimal HOC range?
Click to expand...

Think you've got it backwards. Higher number of blades = higher FOC. More blades means more cuts. This is good when you are super low, like greens, but for anything over 1/2", less blades is better. I think 7 blade should set you up great. I currently have an 11 blade on my 260SL, but plan on getting a 7 blade at some point. I'm starting to get washboarding as well, cutting at 0.7 right now.


----------



## ZachUA

Brackin4au said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pete1313 said:
> 
> 
> 
> No question, get the 7-blade.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Pete, I've read that the lower number blades increase the FOC or do I have that backwards? I do get a little bit of washboarding right now with the original blade.
> 
> If I switch to a 7 blade setup, what will be my optimal HOC range?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Think you've got it backwards. Higher number of blades = higher FOC. More blades means more cuts. This is good when you are super low, like greens, but for anything over 1/2", less blades is better. I think 7 blade should set you up great. I currently have an 11 blade on my 260SL, but plan on getting a 7 blade at some point. I'm starting to get washboarding as well, cutting at 0.7 right now.
Click to expand...

Ok good to know! I have read several times on teh forum folks mention trying to get their number of blades to match their hoc, but didn't really understand. For example, if you're cutting at .5" does that mean you'd want 5 blades? or at .125" you'd want 12 blades?


----------



## Reddog90

ZachUA said:


> Brackin4au said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Pete, I've read that the lower number blades increase the FOC or do I have that backwards? I do get a little bit of washboarding right now with the original blade.
> 
> If I switch to a 7 blade setup, what will be my optimal HOC range?
> 
> 
> 
> Think you've got it backwards. Higher number of blades = higher FOC. More blades means more cuts. This is good when you are super low, like greens, but for anything over 1/2", less blades is better. I think 7 blade should set you up great. I currently have an 11 blade on my 260SL, but plan on getting a 7 blade at some point. I'm starting to get washboarding as well, cutting at 0.7 right now.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok good to know! I have read several times on teh forum folks mention trying to get their number of blades to match their hoc, but didn't really understand. For example, if you're cutting at .5" does that mean you'd want 5 blades? or at .125" you'd want 12 blades?
Click to expand...

Do you guys know if I can get a 7 blade reel for a 180? I think a 7 blade would suit my planned HOC better an 11 blade reel. I am shopping for a 180 or 220 right now, but I will stick with a 220 if I can't get a 7 blade reel for a 180.


----------



## nathan99218

I had a spring that came off the throttle linkage and i'm not sure were it connects to adjust RPM. I know where it goes on the governor arm. I just got the new spring in. I'm guessing i'm going to feel pretty stupid.... but I also just want to make sure the linkage is set up correctly because the idle adjustment screw was not on it. So I have that on there now. Thanks!


----------



## Brackin4au

ZachUA said:


> Brackin4au said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Pete, I've read that the lower number blades increase the FOC or do I have that backwards? I do get a little bit of washboarding right now with the original blade.
> 
> If I switch to a 7 blade setup, what will be my optimal HOC range?
> 
> 
> 
> Think you've got it backwards. Higher number of blades = higher FOC. More blades means more cuts. This is good when you are super low, like greens, but for anything over 1/2", less blades is better. I think 7 blade should set you up great. I currently have an 11 blade on my 260SL, but plan on getting a 7 blade at some point. I'm starting to get washboarding as well, cutting at 0.7 right now.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok good to know! I have read several times on teh forum folks mention trying to get their number of blades to match their hoc, but didn't really understand. For example, if you're cutting at .5" does that mean you'd want 5 blades? or at .125" you'd want 12 blades?
Click to expand...

Nah I think it's the FOC they want to match the HOC. Number of blades and HOC aren't going to match. It's just the more blades in a reel, the more times a blade passes the bedknife to cut. So at really low cuts, that's ideal. But for higher HOC, if the blade is coming by too quickly, it won't snip all the grass blades, and will end up just bending them over and missing them. I am sure it makes a difference if your FOC and HOC are the ideal match, but to me, I'm not too worried about it. I have an 11 blade and cutting at 5/8-3/4. Sure it's not golf green quality, but it still looks much better than a rotary. Plus my yard just isn't level enough for super low to look perfect anyway. Right now I'm sticking with the 11 blade for a while, possibly this whole season... then switching to 7 blade. I don't expect it to look perfect until I can dump a LOT of sand on it more than a few times haha


----------



## stepper

walk1355 said:


> stepper said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> @stepper I'm a little confused which carb you have installed now. If it's the original, then there are some additional cleaning points such as the idle/pilot jet, and the main fuel screen that may of been overlooked. My money is on the idle jet.
> 
> A carburetor is very simple, but yet terribly complex equation of fuel delivery. The bottom line is how it meters fuel at idle (low rpm), and how it steps things up under load (high rpm). You appear to have an issue on the idle side of the equation. By using the Choke you are creating a vacuum that artificially pulls fuel through the main jet (high side) to compensate for a clogged idle jet. I would start by cleaning out the idle jet. There are several YT videos (this one at 4:56) out there on that.
> 
> 
> 
> If it is searching/surging then start to look at the Governor linkage. This only comes into play after the engine will run, but not smoothly. Is it moving in sync with the rpms? You should be able to see the linkage moving and shutting down the throttle butterfly. Hold your finger on the governor arm and push towards the rear of the mower. Do the RPMs steady and increase? How to Adjust
> 
> Bottom line, we should be able to isolate this issue pretty easily.
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response @TonyC
> 
> I replaced the old carb with a new one. It wouldn't start at all before I did that. Sorry I wasn't clear. This is the new carb: HIPA Replace Carburetor with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WPSE934?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
> 
> I'll follow your advice on the governor and see what happens.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's a carb for a Honda GX160. I know all 5 of the JD green's mowers I've worked on all have GX120 engines. I don't think those carbs are interchangable.
> 
> That may be your problem. The new carb you purchased may be the wrong one.
Click to expand...

Put on the carb you mentioned and it's purring like a kitten. Thanks again!


----------



## walk1355

stepper said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> stepper said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the response @TonyC
> 
> I replaced the old carb with a new one. It wouldn't start at all before I did that. Sorry I wasn't clear. This is the new carb: HIPA Replace Carburetor with... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WPSE934?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
> 
> I'll follow your advice on the governor and see what happens.
> 
> 
> 
> That's a carb for a Honda GX160. I know all 5 of the JD green's mowers I've worked on all have GX120 engines. I don't think those carbs are interchangable.
> 
> That may be your problem. The new carb you purchased may be the wrong one.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Put on the carb you mentioned and it's purring like a kitten. Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Awesome. Glad it worked out.


----------



## Don_Bass

Looking To Buy The "Stand Up Bar" To Help Remove Wheels From Mower. Anyone Parting Out?


----------



## ZachUA

When doing an oil change on these, is there any trick to getting all the oil out? I pulled the plug in rear of engine and leaned the mower back, but once it's leaned over, it's difficult to fit a catch can underneath. Not much room between the ground and bars. It would be easier if I could drive it up onto something elevated so that the catch can could easily fit under the mower.


----------



## TonyC

Jrich said:


> Also anyone got a better idea for a temporary solution?


That groomer height adjustment bolt is on inside out. The nut and sliding handle (#14) should be on the outside. the exploded parts diagrams don't show it very well, but the round head of the carriage bolt (#1) should be to the inside closest to the reel. I'm guessing that it was broken because the reel hit the handle.


----------



## stepper

I have two options, hack off the axle for the transport wheels on my 220b or make the gate to my backyard wider. I've seen other people cut off the axles. There's no real issue doing that right? Don't wan to have to take the gate off every time I go back there like I have been haha


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Do you guys use the grass catcher? Is it not better to let the clippings mulch?

Do you guys recommend any other accessories like a groomer?


----------



## Pete1313

stepper said:


> I have two options, hack off the axle for the transport wheels on my 220b or make the gate to my backyard wider. I've seen other people cut off the axles. There's no real issue doing that right? Don't wan to have to take the gate off every time I go back there like I have been haha


No issues cutting them off other then you wont be able to use transport wheels.


----------



## SNOWBOB11

stepper said:


> I have two options, hack off the axle for the transport wheels on my 220b or make the gate to my backyard wider. I've seen other people cut off the axles. There's no real issue doing that right? Don't wan to have to take the gate off every time I go back there like I have been haha


Haha. I literally ran into this same issue. With the axels there was no way I could fit the mower through my gate to the backyard. I cut off the transport axles and now it just fits. I used a angle grinder and file.


----------



## ZachUA

SNOWBOB11 said:


> stepper said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have two options, hack off the axle for the transport wheels on my 220b or make the gate to my backyard wider. I've seen other people cut off the axles. There's no real issue doing that right? Don't wan to have to take the gate off every time I go back there like I have been haha
> 
> 
> 
> Haha. I literally ran into this same issue. With the axels there was no way I could fit the mower through my gate to the backyard. I cut off the transport axles and now it just fits. I used a angle grinder and file.
Click to expand...

I wish there were a way to cut them off and weld on some type of quick disconnect in case you ever wanted to reinstall them so you could add wheels/tires back on.

edit: anyone have any tips on changing the oil in these machines. Are you putting the unit up on a platform of some type to give you some height to fit a catch can under once it's leaned over to drain?


----------



## The Anti-Rebel

You can try a siphon. I think some folks are doing that and it makes it much easier.


----------



## stepper

SNOWBOB11 said:


> stepper said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have two options, hack off the axle for the transport wheels on my 220b or make the gate to my backyard wider. I've seen other people cut off the axles. There's no real issue doing that right? Don't wan to have to take the gate off every time I go back there like I have been haha
> 
> 
> 
> Haha. I literally ran into this same issue. With the axels there was no way I could fit the mower through my gate to the backyard. I cut off the transport axles and now it just fits. I used a angle grinder and file.
Click to expand...

Right? It was like a square peg in a round hole getting back there before I took the fence off. Who knew 22" would end up being about 36"


----------



## stepper

Pete1313 said:


> stepper said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have two options, hack off the axle for the transport wheels on my 220b or make the gate to my backyard wider. I've seen other people cut off the axles. There's no real issue doing that right? Don't wan to have to take the gate off every time I go back there like I have been haha
> 
> 
> 
> No issues cutting them off other then you wont be able to use transport wheels.
Click to expand...

That's what I figured. I'll cut them off tonight.


----------



## bp2878

Hey guys, I have a line on a couple of jd220 mowers. A b model and a e cut hybrid. Same price and condition from what I can tell. The e cut is the latest model correct? Seems like a no brainer to go with the e, am I missing something though?


----------



## jha4aamu

bp2878 said:


> Hey guys, I have a line on a couple of jd220 mowers. A b model and a e cut hybrid. Same price and condition from what I can tell. The e cut is the latest model correct? Seems like a no brainer to go with the e, am I missing something though?


without knowing the price its hard to tell if you are getting a deal on an e-cut or getting cheated for that B. are they both from the same seller?


----------



## bp2878

jha4aamu said:


> bp2878 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I have a line on a couple of jd220 mowers. A b model and a e cut hybrid. Same price and condition from what I can tell. The e cut is the latest model correct? Seems like a no brainer to go with the e, am I missing something though?
> 
> 
> 
> without knowing the price its hard to tell if you are getting a deal on an e-cut or getting cheated for that B. are they both from the same seller?
Click to expand...

Same seller, 600$. 2 e models and 1 b model at that price. I think it is a surplus seller. has multiple jd greensmower trailers and carts for sell too.


----------



## SGrabs33

@bp2878 are they both operating as they should? I know some of those E series parts are $$$


----------



## bp2878

SGrabs33 said:


> @bp2878 are they both operating as they should? I know some of those E series parts are $$$


They are all jam up supposedly. You bring up a very good point that I hadn't thought of though. The more advance the tech, the more it cost to fix. I hate making decisions...


----------



## bp2878

Going with the b model. Couldn't imagine replacing that generator or electric motor. Thanks for the insight as always, SGrabs33.


----------



## SGrabs33

bp2878 said:


> Going with the b model. Couldn't imagine replacing that generator or electric motor. Thanks for the insight as always, SGrabs33.


 :thumbup:


----------



## The_iHenry




----------



## bp2878

Yep, that's them. Just picked up the b model from the freight line. Its works as it should and is just as described. Great seller.


----------



## The_iHenry




----------



## bp2878

I've read other post, in this forum I believe or maybe others about the ************ switch being removed on ecuts but not sure why it would be done, maybe someone else will chime in who knows why it's done. I can say the mower I got from him seems to be in good condition though. I would assume mine, those 2 and the other jd equipment and the triplex mowers he has for sell came from the same golf course and maintained the same way. In looking at his feedback, he sells many different types of items so likely just a surplus dealer. I'm happy with my transaction though for what that is worth to you.


----------



## The_iHenry




----------



## bp2878

The_iHenry said:


> bp2878 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've read other post, in this forum I believe or maybe others about the backlapping switch being removed on ecuts but not sure why it would be done, maybe someone else will chime in who knows why it's done. I can say the mower I got from him seems to be in good condition though. I would assume mine, those 2 and the other jd equipment and the triplex mowers he has for sell came from the same golf course and maintained the same way. In looking at his feedback, he sells many different types of items so likely just a surplus dealer. I'm happy with my transaction though for what that is worth to you.
> 
> 
> 
> How did check out work? Did you have to pay for shipping separately?
Click to expand...

PM sent


----------



## Don_Bass

Looking To Buy Stand/bracket to remove transport wheels on my jd180. Any one have one laying around? Please let me know thanks fellas!


----------



## Bmossin

Hey all, I am looking at replacing my bed knife on my 180C, then back lapping..

I do not know if i will ever get below 1/2 and inch, maybe as a scalp but then I would like to maintain between 1/2-3/4 in as i go and find what I like.

Which bed knife should i go with?

MT4846, 2.5mm minimum HOC or TCU31422 which is minimum 7.6mm.?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## g-man

The 7.6mm one.


----------



## Bmossin

g-man said:


> The 7.6mm one.


Thanks!


----------



## Paul

I need to order a bedknife screw removal but from R&R. They offer 3 different part numbers. Can someone confirm if part # R101278T is for a John Deere? The description is not specific to the manufacturer. I would call them, but they are closed.


----------



## dfw_pilot

@Paul, I put your post in this thread for more accurate responses. Cheers!


----------



## SantiCazorla

Paul said:


> I need to order a bedknife screw removal but from R&R. They offer 3 different part numbers. Can someone confirm if part # R101278T is for a John Deere? The description is not specific to the manufacturer. I would call them, but they are closed.


Yes. R101278T is for John Deere. I have the same one and works perfectly. Also, if you don't already have one, a screw extractor comes in handy for any snapped screw heads you might encounter.


----------



## mantnyh

My reel won't cut paper for about one inch on both sides of center. Cuts great everywhere else. Will a backlapping solve this?


----------



## Paul

@dfw_pilot thanks for moving it over.
@SantiCazorla thanks. I will indeed buy an impact screwdriver for this job.
@mantnyh A back lap may fix your problem. That would all depend on how far out of round the reel is. If you tighten up the reel to bedknife clearance does the reel no longer spin freely due to contact in the middle of the bedknife?


----------



## MontyGreen

Does anyone have any experience with the JD 22 mower? Older, and not really mentioned on the site. It appears that there are still parts available for these units. Is there anything to look for when checking one out, above and beyond any other mower?


----------



## The_iHenry

Can anybody with a 220E Cut Hybrid snap a pic of the backlap switch and the wiring associated with it please.
My switch is missing and I haven't been able to find anything in these regards. Thanks


----------



## The_iHenry

The_iHenry said:


> Can anybody with a 220E Cut Hybrid snap a pic of the backlap switch and the wiring associated with it please.
> My switch is missing and I haven't been able to find anything in those regards. Thanks


----------



## Steverino

Here is one...


----------



## The_iHenry

Steverino said:


> Here is one...


Thanks. 
Is this yours or did you find it in a thread somewhere?


----------



## Steverino

It's mine, I got it from a weeks auction a while back. The reverse switch works great to backlap obviously, but it is also great to clear a jam up when cutting thick, deep wet grass....


----------



## The_iHenry

Steverino said:


> It's mine, I got it from a weeks auction a while back. The reverse switch works great to backlap obviously, but it is also great to clear a jam up when cutting thick, deep wet grass....


Here's mine. I haven't looked very hard but I can't find any cut wires


----------



## The_iHenry

Found them.



They were taped and tucked underneath some other wiring


----------



## Steverino

Great. Let us know if you try it. The mower has to have the brake set on and the yellow switch off, motor running with the reverse switch on, then switch the yellow switch on and it should start spinning backwards...


----------



## The_iHenry

Steverino said:


> Great. Let us know if you try it. The mower has to have the brake set on and the yellow switch off, motor running with the reverse switch on, then switch the yellow switch on and it should start spinning backwards...


Thanks I will just gotta go get a new switch and fix my short first.


----------



## jha4aamu

so i was attempting to take my 260sl out for the first cut, but im running in to an issue. when i engage the reel, if the throttle isnt opened all the way, the mower shuts off. any suggestions on a fix?


----------



## walk1355

jha4aamu said:


> so i was attempting to take my 260sl out for the first cut, but im running in to an issue. when i engage the reel, if the throttle isnt opened all the way, the mower shuts off. any suggestions on a fix?


I had/have this issue. You have to sort of slowly put it into drive. If I slam mine into gear it will die. I also found out recently if my reel to bedknife has slight contact, it's worse.


----------



## jha4aamu

walk1355 said:


> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> so i was attempting to take my 260sl out for the first cut, but im running in to an issue. when i engage the reel, if the throttle isnt opened all the way, the mower shuts off. any suggestions on a fix?
> 
> 
> 
> I had/have this issue. You have to sort of slowly put it into drive. If I slam mine into gear it will die. I also found out recently if my reel to bedknife has slight contact, it's worse.
Click to expand...

im obviously not an expert on these types of mowers but just having it happen 7 or 8 times tonight it seemed like the reel to bedknife was tight. which is odd being that i just had a new bedknife installed at my local JD shop and they were supposed to be adjusting all of that for me


----------



## walk1355

jha4aamu said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> so i was attempting to take my 260sl out for the first cut, but im running in to an issue. when i engage the reel, if the throttle isnt opened all the way, the mower shuts off. any suggestions on a fix?
> 
> 
> 
> I had/have this issue. You have to sort of slowly put it into drive. If I slam mine into gear it will die. I also found out recently if my reel to bedknife has slight contact, it's worse.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> im obviously not an expert on these types of mowers but just having it happen 7 or 8 times tonight it seemed like the reel to bedknife was tight. which is odd being that i just had a new bedknife installed at my local JD shop and they were supposed to be adjusting all of that for me
Click to expand...

Back off your reel to bedknife and see if it's any better.


----------



## Brackin4au

walk1355 said:


> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had/have this issue. You have to sort of slowly put it into drive. If I slam mine into gear it will die. I also found out recently if my reel to bedknife has slight contact, it's worse.
> 
> 
> 
> im obviously not an expert on these types of mowers but just having it happen 7 or 8 times tonight it seemed like the reel to bedknife was tight. which is odd being that i just had a new bedknife installed at my local JD shop and they were supposed to be adjusting all of that for me
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Back off your reel to bedknife and see if it's any better.
Click to expand...

I've had the same issue with mine. Greasing the zerks helped some, specifically the one for the reel. But like @walk1355 said, easing into the drive lever solves my problem. I've gotten so used to it now, that I don't even notice I'm doing it. And usually go a full mowing without it shutting off on me...


----------



## Don_Bass

Has anyone had any problems with there operator bail? My ree still spins after releasing bail. Already attempted adjustment & still the same thing


----------



## Don_Bass

jha4aamu said:


> so i was attempting to take my 260sl out for the first cut, but im running in to an issue. when i engage the reel, if the throttle isnt opened all the way, the mower shuts off. any suggestions on a fix?


Reel To Bed Knife Contact Might Be To Tight.


----------



## lobitz68

jha4aamu said:


> so i was attempting to take my 260sl out for the first cut, but im running in to an issue. when i engage the reel, if the throttle isnt opened all the way, the mower shuts off. any suggestions on a fix?


Are you on an incline? Does it get better after the engine warms up? Mine will do it on occasion, but as I am getting used to handling the machine it is happening much less frequently. Seems to only happen when I first get going for the day or if I bump the throttle down by accident. I usually take my first couple passes at higher throttle and then throttle down a little bit and it seems to do fine for the rest of the mow. I will definitely be looking a little closer at the bedknife contact given the other responses though..


----------



## jha4aamu

lobitz68 said:


> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> so i was attempting to take my 260sl out for the first cut, but im running in to an issue. when i engage the reel, if the throttle isnt opened all the way, the mower shuts off. any suggestions on a fix?
> 
> 
> 
> Are you on an incline? Does it get better after the engine warms up? Mine will do it on occasion, but as I am getting used to handling the machine it is happening much less frequently. Seems to only happen when I first get going for the day or if I bump the throttle down by accident. I usually take my first couple passes at higher throttle and then throttle down a little bit and it seems to do fine for the rest of the mow. I will definitely be looking a little closer at the bedknife contact given the other responses though..
Click to expand...

its odd because it does fine for the first pass. but when i stopped to remove a stick it tried to engage the reel again it shuts off. i backed off the reel to bedknife but that didnt help. ill have to tinker with it a little more tonight. this if the first time ive ever cut w/ a reel mower so im chalking most of this up to user error


----------



## lobitz68

jha4aamu said:


> lobitz68 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> so i was attempting to take my 260sl out for the first cut, but im running in to an issue. when i engage the reel, if the throttle isnt opened all the way, the mower shuts off. any suggestions on a fix?
> 
> 
> 
> Are you on an incline? Does it get better after the engine warms up? Mine will do it on occasion, but as I am getting used to handling the machine it is happening much less frequently. Seems to only happen when I first get going for the day or if I bump the throttle down by accident. I usually take my first couple passes at higher throttle and then throttle down a little bit and it seems to do fine for the rest of the mow. I will definitely be looking a little closer at the bedknife contact given the other responses though..
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> its odd because it does fine for the first pass. but when i stopped to remove a stick it tried to engage the reel again it shuts off. i backed off the reel to bedknife but that didnt help. ill have to tinker with it a little more tonight. this if the first time ive ever cut w/ a reel mower so im chalking most of this up to user error
Click to expand...

Grass height can kill it too.... I have used mine twice now and the second time was much more successful. Keep at it, you'll find the sweet spot.


----------



## lobitz68

Don_Bass said:


> Has anyone had any problems with there operator bail? My ree still spins after releasing bail. Already attempted adjustment & still the same thing


Does it drop out of drive like it supposed to, or does it keep moving as well?


----------



## Don_Bass

lobitz68 said:


> Don_Bass said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone had any problems with there operator bail? My ree still spins after releasing bail. Already attempted adjustment & still the same thing
> 
> 
> 
> Does it drop out of drive like it supposed to, or does it keep moving as well?
Click to expand...

It just keeps moving. I have to disengage it manually


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

What are you guys's thoughts on the e-mowers? The taller HOC and contouring reel are appealing to me since I'd prefer to keep around a 1" HOC and my lawn isn't too level. But I also read concerns that repairs can be more costly and difficult with the electronics. It also seems bigger due to the detachable reel and would take up more space in my garage, at least until I can get a shed for lawn tools.


----------



## TonyC

Don_Bass said:


> lobitz68 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don_Bass said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone had any problems with there operator bail? My ree still spins after releasing bail. Already attempted adjustment & still the same thing
> 
> 
> 
> Does it drop out of drive like it supposed to, or does it keep moving as well?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It just keeps moving. I have to disengage it manually
Click to expand...

I have to believe that the mower wants to keep driving forward too?
Is the return spring in place? See this post earlier in this thread.
Is the cable rusted and resisting the spring?


----------



## mattcoughlin

Anyone know why the maintenence light keeps lighting up when I start my new 220e. I just serviced the mower.


----------



## SNOWBOB11

mattcoughlin said:


> Anyone know why the maintenence light keeps lighting up when I start my new 220e. I just serviced the mower.


Does it continually flash or just light up once or twice? It's supposed to light up on start up.


----------



## mattcoughlin

just lights up and then goes out after 30 seconds or so. I couldn't find it in the manual. Thanks for the info!


----------



## claydus

I need help guys with this bedknife. I just got this mower on 6/6/2019. I looked up the part number and it says its a DURANIUM-801® Greensmower Replacement Bedknife. Fairly certain that this thing is pitted pretty bad since it will not spin that easily when it adjusted toward the reel. Anyways, does this bedknife appear to be correct part for my JD220B? I haven't backlapped yet. Plan on doing that this weekend. Is this bedknife worth saving?

The part number says it fits Toro mowers.

http://www.jrmonline.com/product/4bj250102/


----------



## g-man

@claydus the way it is mounted, it doesn't look right.


----------



## claydus

g-man said:


> @claydus the way it is mounted, it doesn't look right.


I backlapped just a while ago. I the metal on metal contact noise took A WHILE to eventually phase out. still wont cut paper... just pulls it.

Would this R&R bedknifes be a temporary solution for this issue?
https://www.rrproducts.com/Bedknife-~-22inch-Standard~---126-Min---Hoc-product29621
https://www.rrproducts.com/Bedknife-~-High-Cut-product51911?attMake=%5bJohn+Deere%5d&attModel=%5b220B+Greens+Mower%5d


----------



## g-man

I'm going to assume you don't want to go below 0.3in in your hoc, so I recommend the fairway hi cut ET17767.

$37 at greenfarmparts with free shipping this weekend with code JUNE-SHIPPING

https://greenfarmparts.com/shop/john-deere-knife-et17767/


----------



## claydus

g-man said:


> I'm going to assume you don't want to go below 0.3in in your hoc, so I recommend the fairway hi cut ET17767.
> 
> $37 at greenfarmparts with free shipping this weekend with code JUNE-SHIPPING
> 
> https://greenfarmparts.com/shop/john-deere-knife-et17767/


Indeed... a low HOC is not really my concern. 1/2 inch is or slightly more will be good for the rest of the season for me


----------



## Gdfein

I have a line on a 180C with catcher for $500, supposedly starts, runs and cuts paper. Just need grease and TLC.

Is this worth jumping on? I can't figure how to upload the pic I have.


----------



## mattcoughlin

I have 2 john deere greens mowers. Just got a 220e and I have a 2008 260c I want to sell. Im not sure what to ask for a fair price. They are 1500-2500 on eBay. I was thinking of asking 1800 on Craig's list. Does that sound like too much? It's in excellent shape. Sharpened last fall.


----------



## SGrabs33

Gdfein said:


> I have a line on a 180C with catcher for $500, supposedly starts, runs and cuts paper. Just need grease and TLC.
> 
> Is this worth jumping on? I can't figure how to upload the pic I have.


Is it this? If so then yes.



Rockinar said:


> Selling my JD 180C with Accugauge. $500 firm


----------



## The_iHenry

Can someone post a picture of their parking stand with measurements if possible. I wanna try to diy one. Thanks


----------



## claydus

How easy should this pulley be able to move/roll? Mine doesn't move all that great. Should I invest in new pulley or take this off a grease it up?


----------



## TonyC

claydus said:


> How easy should this pulley be able to move/roll? Mine doesn't move all that great. Should I invest in new pulley or take this off a grease it up?


That's your drive belts engagement pulley. It should spin like a top or it will put drag on the the engine and torch your belts constantly.

It's kind of hard for me to believe but @ $156 from Green Farm Parts, I would try to lube it up. Try a penetrating oil, and treat it for rust.
https://greenfarmparts.com/shop/john-deere-pulley-mt7333/


----------



## claydus

TonyC said:


> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> How easy should this pulley be able to move/roll? Mine doesn't move all that great. Should I invest in new pulley or take this off a grease it up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's your drive belts engagement pulley. It should spin like a top or it will put drag on the the engine and torch your belts constantly.
> 
> It's kind of hard for me to believe but @ $156 from Green Farm Parts, I would try to lube it up. Try a penetrating oil, and treat it for rust.
> https://greenfarmparts.com/shop/john-deere-pulley-mt7333/
Click to expand...


----------



## TonyC

claydus said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> How easy should this pulley be able to move/roll? Mine doesn't move all that great. Should I invest in new pulley or take this off a grease it up?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's your drive belts engagement pulley. It should spin like a top or it will put drag on the the engine and torch your belts constantly.
> 
> It's kind of hard for me to believe but @ $156 from Green Farm Parts, I would try to lube it up. Try a penetrating oil, and treat it for rust.
> https://greenfarmparts.com/shop/john-deere-pulley-mt7333/
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

That part appears to be two outer sleeves spot welded together encasing the inner bearing(s). I cannot tell if you can get the seals off of the bearing(s), but if you can you basically want to work the bearing(s) like this video from Steve's Small Engine Saloon.


----------



## claydus

Well I removed the pulley and inspected the bearing tonight. I looked at the parts catalog and noted that this was the AMT758 idler pulley and not the MT7333 rear pulley.

Only place that I can find it for sale.
https://phoenix-mfg.com/John-Deere-AMT758-Flat-Idler-Pulley--25-Flat-Dia--38-Bore--Steel_p_1799.html

No grease from what I can tell. Ran WD40 and PB Blaster through it several times. Lots of debri is coming out. After about 30 mins of rolling it a lubricating it and rinsing it out, it still feels rough like there may be pitting inside of the bearing. I'm letting soak tonight in WD40 and has some grease ordered that should be getting here Friday. It's A LOT better than when I originally pulled it off.


----------



## TonyC

@claydus , sorry you're absolutely correct. I'm not sure how I cross referenced that wrong. $24 bucks not bad. I was looking at the right part in the diagram and checked it on my JD I'm rebuilding. Sorry for scarring you.


----------



## claydus

The above link to the part I found has been out of stock for some time. This part is almost impossible to locate otherwise. It's a common interchangeable part on different JD equipment. The closest dealer was in Greenville Turf in SC that carries the part. Hoping to get it within the next week. Going to rig this bearing with grease tonight so i can cut with it 1 more time this week.


----------



## g-man

@claydus check on www.greenfarmparts.com You can use their part diagram to ensure it is the correct part or an updated part number.

Also, it looks like a 6202 standard bearing that you could buy local or from Amazon prime. The bearing is pressed into the pulley. The red part of the bearing should list the number.


----------



## claydus

g-man said:


> @claydus check on www.greenfarmparts.com You can use their part diagram to ensure it is the correct part or an updated part number.
> 
> Also, it looks like a 6202 standard bearing that you could buy local or from Amazon prime. The bearing is pressed into the pulley. The red part of the bearing should list the number.


Pretty sure I would need to drill the welds out to get the bearing out of this thing. Once I get the new idler, I will drill it out and try to inspect the failure points.... I think I can see small flat spots or chips in the outer part the bearing when I move it around.


----------



## driver_7

Starting to tear into the 220A. The drive started acting up yesterday while mowing. I could no longer pivot to turn and it was making a shot bearing sound. 20+ years of grease build-up is disgusting. I'm going to replace the reel while I'm at it, since I have to take it entirely apart anyway.


----------



## TonyC

717driver said:


> Starting to tear into the 220A. The drive started acting up yesterday while mowing. I could no longer pivot to turn and it was making a shot bearing sound. 20+ years of grease build-up is disgusting. I'm going to replace the reel while I'm at it, since I have to take it entirely apart anyway.


Time for a Rebuild Thread!

You have WAY more grease than I had in mine!


----------



## driver_7

TonyC said:


> 717driver said:
> 
> 
> 
> Starting to tear into the 220A. The drive started acting up yesterday while mowing. I could no longer pivot to turn and it was making a shot bearing sound. 20+ years of grease build-up is disgusting. I'm going to replace the reel while I'm at it, since I have to take it entirely apart anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> Time for a Rebuild Thread!
> 
> You have WAY more grease than I had in mine!
Click to expand...

I'll definitely start a rebuild thread. After getting the chains off and free spinning the drums, it doesn't appear that the bearing sound I hear is coming from the rear roller. It sounds more like it's in the speed reducer system somewhere. Not ideal. That thing looks complicated and messy. I'm still going to replace the reel and BK while I have the machine torn apart.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

So, a local golf course has this 220b. It was purchased at an auction and has been sitting for the past 4 years in a warehouse.

It looks like it will clean up well and is covered in dust. The bedknife has a little rust but it may just be surface rust.

It's missing the left hand bracket for the front roller but they said they would replace that for me.

They're asking $500 for it as-is but the manager told me they would replace the bracket, full service tune up, clean carb, and sharpen the reel all for $600.

What do you guys think? Is it worth it?


----------



## SGrabs33

@MeanDean fully serviced and ready to go I'd say it's a good deal. They have the grass catcher?


----------



## Keepin It Reel

SGrabs33 said:


> @MeanDean fully serviced and ready to go I'd say it's a good deal. They have the grass catcher?


Yes, it does have the grass catcher but no transport wheels which I probably wouldn't use anyways.


----------



## SGrabs33

MeanDean said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MeanDean fully serviced and ready to go I'd say it's a good deal. They have the grass catcher?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it does have the grass catcher but no transport wheels which I probably wouldn't use anyways.
Click to expand...

Nice, I'd say that pretty good!


----------



## TonyC

MeanDean said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MeanDean fully serviced and ready to go I'd say it's a good deal. They have the grass catcher?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it does have the grass catcher but no transport wheels which I probably wouldn't use anyways.
Click to expand...

Ask for wheels!


----------



## walk1355

SGrabs33 said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MeanDean fully serviced and ready to go I'd say it's a good deal. They have the grass catcher?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it does have the grass catcher but no transport wheels which I probably wouldn't use anyways.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nice, I'd say that pretty good!
Click to expand...

Agreed. $600 is a good deal on a ready to mow mowah


----------



## Keepin It Reel

SGrabs33 said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MeanDean fully serviced and ready to go I'd say it's a good deal. They have the grass catcher?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it does have the grass catcher but no transport wheels which I probably wouldn't use anyways.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nice, I'd say that pretty good!
Click to expand...

Is there anything that stands out to you from the photos besides it needing a little tlc?


----------



## g-man

@MeanDean yes, it is missing more than the left side bracket. It is missing the GTC gear case. It makes the groomer turn.

If you can lock them to $600 with fixing it, it is a great deal. A new gear case will be $$$$.


----------



## UFG8RMIKE

Is there a reason everyone leaves the axles on for transport wheels that never get used? Greens mowers look absurd with the axles sticking out. That's something that would drive me nuts for some reason. Can u take em off?


----------



## Keepin It Reel

UFG8RMIKE said:


> Is there a reason everyone leaves the axles on for transport wheels that never get used? Greens mowers look absurd with the axles sticking out. That's something that would drive me nuts for some reason. Can u take em off?


I will likely cut them off if I but this one.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

g-man said:


> @MeanDean yes, it is missing more than the left side bracket. It is missing the GTC gear case. It makes the groomer turn.
> 
> If you can lock them to $600 with fixing it, it is a great deal. A new gear case will be $$$$.


Thanks!

Is the GTC gear case only for the groomer? The mower can be used without it, right?


----------



## g-man

Yes only for the groomer. But when it is removed, I think a different spring/nut is used on the reel connection and a different cap to keep the grease there. You will need to check the manual.


----------



## The_iHenry

MeanDean said:


> So, a local golf course has this 220b. It was purchased at an auction and has been sitting for the past 4 years in a warehouse.
> 
> It looks like it will clean up well and is covered in dust. The bedknife has a little rust but it may just be surface rust.
> 
> It's missing the left hand bracket for the front roller but they said they would replace that for me.
> 
> They're asking $500 for it as-is but the manager told me they would replace the bracket, full service tune up, clean carb, and sharpen the reel all for $600.
> 
> What do you guys think? Is it worth it?


Good deal! If by any chance it has the parking stand lmk if you're interested in selling it since you won't be using it. Or perhaps take a picture of it with some measurements. I'd like to try to make one myself.


----------



## Pete1313

@MeanDean, $600 is a good deal as long as they fix it up the right way and dont bandage it up for a sale. As already mentioned alot of stuff is missing on that one side. Zooming in on the reel bearing housing it looks to be missing some things in there as well(compression spring, nut, spacers). There will be a gear in there if you have a GTC, or it will be a spacer and dust cap without a GTC. Knowing that it was used as a parts machine, it makes you wonder what else might be missing. On a plus side, there is alot of life left on the reel.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

After speaking with the manager several times and not just the superintendent, I really feel like he wants to ensure the machine is working as it should before it leaves his shop. I offered to take it off his hands as-is for a discounted price but he said he would feel more comfortable having his mechanic go through everything so he knows I wasn't buying junk.

Most people could careless what they sell you but I don't feel that way in this particular situation. He seems like a genuine guy that runs a good business. This golf course is local to me and very well known for the area.


----------



## driver_7

If they fix it up to proper working condition, it would be worth it to me. You'll be really happy with the way it cuts vs. your current Tru-Cut, which is a great machine as well. It is still night and day difference with a true greens mower. On the plus side of this deal, it sounds like you have a shop that will work on it as well, or at least keep it tuned up/sharpened for you, that is almost priceless.


----------



## Gdfein

Hi, I'm a noob owner of a 180C. My initial question is how to adjust the speed of travel, the throttle handle seems to have 2 speeds, stopped and full out. The full out speed is to fast for me to keep pace with at the level of control I want.

How do I go about adjusting my range of speed control?


----------



## claydus

Got my replacement idler pulley yesterday and got it installed! Night and day difference when engaging the drive gear now!

Checking out what's going on with GTC unit and why its not working....
Cracked this thing open and the smell is unbearable and the grease is rock hard almost every where










WARNING NWS!


















I have some JD polyurea grease coming in today and I will get it lubed up soon.


----------



## driver_7

Gdfein said:


> Hi, I'm a noob owner of a 180C. My initial question is how to adjust the speed of travel, the throttle handle seems to have 2 speeds, stopped and full out. The full out speed is to fast for me to keep pace with at the level of control I want.
> 
> How do I go about adjusting my range of speed control?


Use the throttle to control the speed. The drive clutch is exactly how you describe it, either all on or all off. You can feather it a little if you need to get it going carefully. I thought my 220A was insanely fast, even at low idle, but now I think my Honda is too slow when I use it... just got used to it, I suppose. :bandit:


----------



## jha4aamu

claydus said:


> Got my replacement idler pulley yesterday and got it installed! Night and day difference when engaging the drive gear now!
> 
> Checking out what's going on with GTC unit and why its not working....
> Cracked this thing open and the smell is unbearable and the grease is rock hard almost every where
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WARNING NWS!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have some JD polyurea grease coming in today and I will get it lubed up soon.


Curious as to what issues you were having that lead you to replacing the idler pulley. Ive been troubleshooting my mower and replacing that came to mind


----------



## Brackin4au

717driver said:


> Gdfein said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, I'm a noob owner of a 180C. My initial question is how to adjust the speed of travel, the throttle handle seems to have 2 speeds, stopped and full out. The full out speed is to fast for me to keep pace with at the level of control I want.
> 
> How do I go about adjusting my range of speed control?
> 
> 
> 
> Use the throttle to control the speed. The drive clutch is exactly how you describe it, either all on or all off. You can feather it a little if you need to get it going carefully. I thought my 220A was insanely fast, even at low idle, but now I think my Honda is too slow when I use it... just got used to it, I suppose. :bandit:
Click to expand...

+1. I run mine about 3/4 throttle and feather the drive lever so it doesn't just take off instantly. I feel the same way about my old rotary now ha. I used it to clean up some seedheads and felt like I was pushing it to go faster even though it's self propelled.


----------



## claydus

jha4aamu said:


> Curious as to what issues you were having that lead you to replacing the idler pulley. Ive been troubleshooting my mower and replacing that came to mind


Really rough engagement when i put the mower in drive with or without the reel engaged. My push/pull cable for the drive engagement


----------



## TonyC

Brackin4au said:


> 717driver said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gdfein said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, I'm a noob owner of a 180C. My initial question is how to adjust the speed of travel, the throttle handle seems to have 2 speeds, stopped and full out. The full out speed is to fast for me to keep pace with at the level of control I want.
> 
> How do I go about adjusting my range of speed control?
> 
> 
> 
> Use the throttle to control the speed. The drive clutch is exactly how you describe it, either all on or all off. You can feather it a little if you need to get it going carefully. I thought my 220A was insanely fast, even at low idle, but now I think my Honda is too slow when I use it... just got used to it, I suppose. :bandit:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> +1. I run mine about 3/4 throttle and feather the drive lever so it doesn't just take off instantly. I feel the same way about my old rotary now ha. I used it to clean up some seedheads and felt like I was pushing it to go faster even though it's self propelled.
Click to expand...

@Gdfein, sounds like you need to check the throttle cable travel. The cable should have enough throw to go from idle to full power. You should have about an inch of throttle lever travel, maybe a little more. When you push the lever forward, it pulls the throttle cable.

Remove your air filter and take a look at the throttle cable linkage. Here are two pictures (idle & full throttle) from my 180SL.

If your engine only runs at a high speed, you need to adjust and move the black cable jacket to the RIGHT (see top picture). Loosen the screw in the left red circle and move the black jacket to the RIGHT. This will give you more travel to the low range. Tighten and check travel.

If the engine still will not idle down, then you need to pull the operator throttle back all the way, and then adjust the cable attachment in the right circle. Loosen the screw, rotate the throttle linkage counter clockwise and retighten the screw..

If the engine will not throttle up to full speed, you need to adjust the cable to the LEFT for more travel, or back out the high speed linkage stop screw (red circle in second picture). I don't think you need to mess with this in your situation.

*IDLE POSITION*



*FULL THROTTLE POSITION*


----------



## Spammage

@Gdfein it could also be a governor issue. When I got my 220B, it would literally sound like it was trying to blow itself up, and there was no way to slow the throttle down. The governor adjustment under the gas tank was loose.


----------



## TonyC

Spammage said:


> @Gdfein it could also be a governor issue. When I got my 220B, it would literally sound like it was trying to blow itself up, and there was no way to slow the throttle down. The governor adjustment under the gas tank was loose.


There are two pieces to the RPM puzzle, the throttle movement (carburetor air flow) and the governor. Throttle movement does nothing more than adjust air flow into the carburetor. Less air, less fuel is sucked (low pressure - Bernoulli Principle) into the throttle and mixed with air which is then passed on to the combustion chamber. Open the throttle, and more air flows into the throttle and more suction is created, pulling more fuel into the throttle body and then combustion chamber.

The governor only comes into play once the RPMs rise to full throttle, and it's intended to keep the engine from redlining and destroying itself. It is a mechanical linkage that actuates under high speed and retards the rpms by pushing against the throttle linkage to move the butterfly valve reducing air flow of the carburetor.

I believe that in this case, he needs to reduce the rpm via the throttle lever, and the linkage needs to be adjusted so the butterfly valve will close down properly. Once he has a correct low rpm, then we can adjust for high rpm, and confirm that the governor is then working correctly.


----------



## jha4aamu

claydus said:


> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> Curious as to what issues you were having that lead you to replacing the idler pulley. Ive been troubleshooting my mower and replacing that came to mind
> 
> 
> 
> Really rough engagement when i put the mower in drive with or without the reel engaged. My push/pull cable for the drive engagement
Click to expand...

Thanks. My issue has been with the engine dying when the reel is engaged. I backed off the reel to bedknife so I confirmed that wasnt it. Drawing a blank now as the mower will run/move as long as the reel lever isn't engaged


----------



## Gdfein

Thanks all for the suggestions. May be a few days before I get back home to tinker but I greatly appreciate the pointers to get me headed in the proper direction.


----------



## TonyC

@jha4aamu Can you shoot a video and share so we might hear & see what's happening?

There are only a few items that might be a problem, but if we can eliminate them one by one maybe we'll get you fixed.

Normal engine idle?
Fresh grease all around (including input/output shafts for the Gear Case)?
Free moving main roller drum?
Free spinning idler roller?
Brake band fully released and free spinning?
Normal forward drive without engine bogging (Uphill to simulate load)?
With reel disengaged does the front output shaft spin with little resistance and rotate the reel easily?
Remove side covers. Are the chain rollers too tight?
Is the chain for the reel in good condition and lubricated?
Reel spins with out issue by hand?
No slop or movement of reel (bad bearings)?

These are the things that come to mind. I would work through them in order and see where things breakdown.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

So the golf course that has this mower called our local John Deere distributor to ask about the missing brackets on the lefthand side. From what the guy told me he was quoted around $325 just for the bracket that holds the left side roller on. This has nothing to do with the GTC gear or anything that's missing.

Does that sound right to you guys? I understand the GTC gear is an expensive piece on it's own but can the bracket really be that expensive?

The manager said $325 for a bracket would be hard to justify and I'm surely not eating that cost to get this up and running. I was hoping to get some insight here as to what could be done to fix this. I would hate to part with the groomer but if it were to be removed is there not a cheaper alternative to just get the roller setup correctly on that side without the groomer?


----------



## NewLawnJon

jha4aamu said:


> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> Curious as to what issues you were having that lead you to replacing the idler pulley. Ive been troubleshooting my mower and replacing that came to mind
> 
> 
> 
> Really rough engagement when i put the mower in drive with or without the reel engaged. My push/pull cable for the drive engagement
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks. My issue has been with the engine dying when the reel is engaged. I backed off the reel to bedknife so I confirmed that wasnt it. Drawing a blank now as the mower will run/move as long as the reel lever isn't engaged
Click to expand...

Is this your first time using the greens mower? I know I had to scalp with the rotary to 1.5" to get the grass to where the mower would run with the reel engaged.


----------



## jha4aamu

TonyC said:


> @jha4aamu Can you shoot a video and share so we might hear & see what's happening?
> 
> There are only a few items that might be a problem, but if we can eliminate them one by one maybe we'll get you fixed.
> 
> Normal engine idle?
> Fresh grease all around (including input/output shafts for the Gear Case)?
> Free moving main roller drum?
> Free spinning idler roller?
> Brake band fully released and free spinning?
> Normal forward drive without engine bogging (Uphill to simulate load)?
> With reel disengaged does the front output shaft spin with little resistance and rotate the reel easily?
> Remove side covers. Are the chain rollers too tight?
> Is the chain for the reel in good condition and lubricated?
> Reel spins with out issue by hand?
> No slop or movement of reel (bad bearings)?
> 
> These are the things that come to mind. I would work through them in order and see where things breakdown.


I took a video of what's happening but it wont load on here. 
I checked some of the things you listed and I can confirm those arent the issue (normal forward drive, free spinning main drum, reel spins without issue) I'm having my JD dealer come pick it up Monday to fix it. They were supposed to be getting it in perfect running condition before sending it back so they should be taking care of it. I had hoped I could DIY it as to not be without my machine!


----------



## jha4aamu

NewLawnJon said:


> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> Really rough engagement when i put the mower in drive with or without the reel engaged. My push/pull cable for the drive engagement
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. My issue has been with the engine dying when the reel is engaged. I backed off the reel to bedknife so I confirmed that wasnt it. Drawing a blank now as the mower will run/move as long as the reel lever isn't engaged
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is this your first time using the greens mower? I know I had to scalp with the rotary to 1.5" to get the grass to where the mower would run with the reel engaged.
Click to expand...

It is. But I was cutting with my rotary a little over 1.3" and my reel HOC is 1.25".


----------



## jha4aamu

Brackin4au said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> StormTrooper86 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've got an issue with my John Deere 220SL. For some reason when I move the drive level forward after starting the engine just dies as the mower will only move a few feet. Engine starts easy and runs great when I engage the drive lever too fast or all the way the mower shuts off. Any thoughts?????
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is/was like this. There wasn't anything wrong with mine, I just kept trying to different engagement techniques until I figured it out. I can't slam mine into drive as it will die, I slowly engage it and start walking and it's fine. Maybe keep messing with it?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Same here. Sounds exactly like mine. I also have to ease into the lever and start going gradually. I've figured out the right moment to put it all the way down and things go fine from there. If I ever drop it too quick though....dead. It's frustrating, but I've gotten used to it. I'm thinking it may be a grease issue that may resolve some over time. These auction mowers are a toss up on previous maintenance. And if they weren't greased properly, the extra strain to get the reel going may be too much on the engine. So maybe getting proper grease in the reel and drive mechanisms will help?? Who knows. We will see in due time I guess haha. Mine seems to have improved a tad after greasing. Could just be in my head though haha.
Click to expand...

 did you ever find a solution to this issue? it sounds exactly like what im dealing w/ now. extremely frustrating trying to baby that lever down and find that exact moment where the reel will engage before the engine dies


----------



## Brackin4au

jha4aamu said:


> did you ever find a solution to this issue? it sounds exactly like what im dealing w/ now. extremely frustrating trying to baby that lever down and find that exact moment where the reel will engage before the engine dies


I greased it good, and that seemed to help some. It still dies if I slam it into drive, but not nearly as easily as before. I am not sure if it's the grease, or if I've just gotten good at feathering the handle. I honestly think it's a little of both. It's kind of like learning a stick shift vehicle. Hard to get used to, but once you are, you don't even think about it. My last several mows it hasn't given me any trouble, and hasn't slowed me down either. So I haven't really looked into it any further.


----------



## g-man

@jha4aamu check your pulleys to be parallel and in the same plane. If you go back 20 pages, someone had a similar issue.

For videos you will need to upload to an online video service (eg you tube) and share the link.


----------



## g-man

@MeanDean $300? I believe it. It is a complicated shape with machining, plus they want some profit on a unique part.

The gtc gear will be even more $$$. I checked on greenfarmparts and it is not even sold (part BM20565).

The golf course has a problem. They have a parts mower and will need a second parts one to be able to sell this or sell it as a parts one. Either way, I think you should move on.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

g-man said:


> @MeanDean $300? I believe it. It is a complicated shape with machining, plus they want some profit on a unique part.
> 
> The gtc gear will be even more $$$. I checked on greenfarmparts and it is not even sold (part BM20565).
> 
> The golf course has a problem. They have a parts mower and will need a second parts one to be able to sell this or sell it as a parts one. Either way, I think you should move on.


That's unfortunate because it looks like a nice machine overall but I'm definitely not going to eat the cost.


----------



## TonyC

MeanDean said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MeanDean $300? I believe it. It is a complicated shape with machining, plus they want some profit on a unique part.
> 
> The gtc gear will be even more $$$. I checked on greenfarmparts and it is not even sold (part BM20565).
> 
> The golf course has a problem. They have a parts mower and will need a second parts one to be able to sell this or sell it as a parts one. Either way, I think you should move on.
> 
> 
> 
> That's unfortunate because it looks like a nice machine overall but I'm definitely not going to eat the cost.
Click to expand...

I'm with g-man on this. MeanDean, being in SC, you should get a mower from the Weeks Auction here in GA. You'll get a newer mower for far less. Hang in there something will come up and you'll be happier in the end.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

TonyC said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MeanDean $300? I believe it. It is a complicated shape with machining, plus they want some profit on a unique part.
> 
> The gtc gear will be even more $$$. I checked on greenfarmparts and it is not even sold (part BM20565).
> 
> The golf course has a problem. They have a parts mower and will need a second parts one to be able to sell this or sell it as a parts one. Either way, I think you should move on.
> 
> 
> 
> That's unfortunate because it looks like a nice machine overall but I'm definitely not going to eat the cost.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm with g-man on this. MeanDean, being in SC, you should get a mower from the Weeks Auction here in GA. You'll get a newer mower for far less. Hang in there something will come up and you'll be happier in the end.
Click to expand...

I'm trying to be patient. My TruCut does just fine for now but the idea of a greens mower is like a kid on Christmas morning. However, I don't want to just rush into anything either.

There's a place not far from me that has several GM 1000s the guy said he would let go for $200. They do need some work, servicing, sharpened, etc but if I can pick up one and my all in budget is $400 that may be worth it.

Going to look at them tomorrow and weigh my options.


----------



## Pamboys09

Still continue my search for my greens mower

Guys would you guys take $900

For these??


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Looks good but it's over 20 years old which isn't always a bad thing


----------



## Pamboys09

MeanDean said:


> Looks good but it's over 20 years old which isn't always a bad thing


so this model is old? or still good?
is the price fair or too high?


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Pamboys09 said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good but it's over 20 years old which isn't always a bad thing
> 
> 
> 
> so this model is old? or still good?
> is the price fair or too high?
Click to expand...

Apparently the 220 was first, then came 220a, b, c and so on. Each letter represents a slight revision from the previous model.

The image below is a screenshot I took from an earlier post here showing the years of production for each model and the original 220 isn't even listed so it has to be a few years older than the A.

I have seen 220b's go for $700-800 if that helps any.


----------



## Pamboys09

MeanDean said:


> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks good but it's over 20 years old which isn't always a bad thing
> 
> 
> 
> so this model is old? or still good?
> is the price fair or too high?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Apparently the 220 was first, then came 220a, b, c and so on. Each letter represents a slight revision from the previous model.
> 
> The image below is a screenshot I took from an earlier post here showing the years of production for each model and the original 220 isn't even listed so it has to be a few years older than the A.
> 
> I have seen 220b's go for $700-800 if that helps any.
Click to expand...

Got it thanks, make sense now, anyway the picture above is a 220A or B?


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Pamboys09 said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> so this model is old? or still good?
> is the price fair or too high?
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently the 220 was first, then came 220a, b, c and so on. Each letter represents a slight revision from the previous model.
> 
> The image below is a screenshot I took from an earlier post here showing the years of production for each model and the original 220 isn't even listed so it has to be a few years older than the A.
> 
> I have seen 220b's go for $700-800 if that helps any.
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Got it thanks, make sense now, anyway the picture above is a 220A or B?
Click to expand...

If you look at the top where the label is it says "220".


----------



## Pamboys09

Got it..


----------



## Pamboys09

If the engine works well and these are the bedknife

Whats the fair price for the JD 220?


----------



## ZachUA

I have a 220sl that I will be looking to sell soon. Located in bham al. Only reason selling is I bought a 260sl and am looking to make room in garage.


----------



## The_iHenry

I got a 220E that I'm going to be selling soon. @Pamboys09


----------



## claydus

Does anyone have any tips on how to use the GTC on a 220B. Is there a minimum height that it should be set to? My HOC is 0.75 inch currently.

I have some thatch lingering in a few areas. I was thinking the GTC would be alternate solution for a thatch take.


----------



## driver_7

claydus said:


> Does anyone have any tips on how to use the GTC on a 220B. Is there a minimum height that it should be set to? My HOC is 0.75 inch currently.
> 
> I have some thatch lingering in a few areas. I was thinking the GTC would be alternate solution for a thatch take.


The 220B Operators Manual (I tried to link to the page, but the manual is in a format that I couldn't link within) says the first time using the GTC to set the GTC blades at the same depth as your HOC. I'd imagine this is to begin the conditioning process without stressing the turf too bad. It won't replace a purpose-built verticutter or dethatcher, it isn't designed as such or to cut as deeply into the turf or soil surface.



> Conditioning aggressiveness will require adjustment and monitoring as these factors vary.
> Conditioning frequency may also need to be reduced in some cases.
> The conditioner process involves shallow vertical cutting. The blades are adjusted to cut runners and lift horizontal leaf material. It is important that frequent and thorough observations be performed or stress to the plants may occur. Make adjustments as necessary.
> Condition greens the first time with blades set the same as HOC. Closely examine each green and note any inconsistencies or appearance of over-aggressiveness. Decrease GTC penetration if necessary.


I don't think you set the depth off the spindle of the GTC, but I could be wrong. If you set it off that, it would be digging in pretty deep. I've only used my GTC once so far, I was only testing for functionally and the bearing wear, but I liked it. I'm wanting to use it as we get into the hotter part of summer and the runners are getting pretty aggressive.


----------



## Don_Bass

The_iHenry said:


> Can someone post a picture of their parking stand with measurements if possible. I wanna try to diy one. Thanks


I been waiting Here Too


----------



## The_iHenry

Don_Bass said:


> The_iHenry said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone post a picture of their parking stand with measurements if possible. I wanna try to diy one. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> I been waiting Here Too
Click to expand...


----------



## Bmossin

@The_iHenry and @Don_Bass I just shot you both PM's with my cell to text me later tonight to remind me if you do not get the info before. I have a 180C.


----------



## Don_Bass

Bmossin said:


> @The_iHenry and @Don_Bass I just shot you both PM's with my cell to text me later tonight to remind me if you do not get the info before. I have a 180C.


Sweet Thanks Man Appreciate It :thumbup:


----------



## The_iHenry

Bmossin said:


> @The_iHenry and @Don_Bass I just shot you both PM's with my cell to text me later tonight to remind me if you do not get the info before. I have a 180C.


 LOL thanks brotha.


----------



## FATC1TY

ZachUA said:


> I have a 220sl that I will be looking to sell soon. Located in bham al. Only reason selling is I bought a 260sl and am looking to make room in garage.


Shoot me a msg when you think you want to sell. I'm not far in west GA.


----------



## claydus

What is best zerk coupler for a grease guns? The one that came with my gun gets absolutely no grease through the fitting.


----------



## TonyC

claydus said:


> What is best zerk coupler for a grease guns? The one that came with my gun gets absolutely no grease through the fitting.


You should just try to clean/clear the fitting.

Google Grease Fitting Cleaning tools.


----------



## claydus

TonyC said:


> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> What is best zerk coupler for a grease guns? The one that came with my gun gets absolutely no grease through the fitting.
> 
> 
> 
> You should just try to clean/clear the fitting.
> 
> Google Grease Fitting Cleaning tools.
Click to expand...

I took some the zerks fitting completely off poked around with a sewing needle and some really dark grease was in the but it wasn't solid. Investing in a Lock-n-Lube coupler soon.


----------



## claydus

So I never thought this was an issue. But I wanted to get everyones input.

Is this reel even usable? 3 out of the 11 blades are shown below from the right-hand side of the reel. The rest are not this bent. It cuts paper but it make a god awful noise when the reel is engaged. Not sure if its worth cutting my losses and investing in a newer reel and bedknife.


----------



## ZachUA

claydus said:


> So I never thought this was an issue. But I wanted to get everyones input.
> 
> Is this reel even usable? 3 out of the 11 blades are shown below from the right-hand side of the reel. The rest are not this bent. It cuts paper but it make a god awful noise when the reel is engaged. Not sure if its worth cutting my losses and investing in a newer reel and bedknife.


Same exact problem I had with mine, same side, even, except worse. I bent the blades back into place and a few of them broke off. Tested it the other day with no issues. I want to go to a 7 blade setup (currently has 11) so even if a few of the blades are missing on the right corner I suspect the remaining blades are still cutting that 1" width of grass (my uneducated guess).


----------



## ZachUA

Anyone changed out the lightbulb on their jd greensmower? Wondering if there's a brighter led option out there.

edit: also wondered what the procedure is for putting together the speed tube thing that fits between the roller height adjusters (so that you only have to turn one side to raise/lower). It looks like (based on the diagram) that it's simply held together by the pins?

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/58274/referrer/navigation/pgId/228525345


----------



## claydus

Here is a late night video of my 220B. I have back-lapped today and it's cutting paper. I have the reel engaged in the video below.

2 questions:
-When I engage the clutch at the beginning at the (7 sec mark) there is a squeaky sound noise. Is this the belts making this noisy or could this be a bearing? When I have the reel disengaged. I don't notice this sound at all

-After I start moving with the reel engaged. I notice the reel is making A LOT of noise. Metal on metal contact. The reel spins easily when I test paper cutting and adjusting. I backed off the reel and bedknife to considerably to test if the reel still made noise. As stated in my few last post, there are 3 blades on the reel that are bent on one end of the reel. Is the reel to bedknife noise something i should be concerned about?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xZoeday3o1ew9fYm8


----------



## g-man

I can't see a thing. It will be nice to see the reel moving in daylight.


----------



## The_iHenry

claydus said:


> -When I engage the clutch at the beginning at the (7 sec mark) there is a squeaky sound noise. Is this the belts making this noisy or could this be a bearing? When I have the reel disengaged. I don't notice this sound at all


Sounds like when I engage my reel with the parking brake engaged. Maybe you need to adjust the parking brake?


----------



## joeker

claydus said:


> So I never thought this was an issue. But I wanted to get everyones input.
> 
> Is this reel even usable? 3 out of the 11 blades are shown below from the right-hand side of the reel. The rest are not this bent. It cuts paper but it make a god awful noise when the reel is engaged. Not sure if its worth cutting my losses and investing in a newer reel and bedknife.


@claydus heat gun, hammer, and backlap.


----------



## claydus

joeker said:


> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I never thought this was an issue. But I wanted to get everyones input.
> 
> Is this reel even usable? 3 out of the 11 blades are shown below from the right-hand side of the reel. The rest are not this bent. It cuts paper but it make a god awful noise when the reel is engaged. Not sure if its worth cutting my losses and investing in a newer reel and bedknife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @claydus heat gun, hammer, and backlap.
Click to expand...

Yeah I think i will need to remove the reel to hammer it out. It just wants to spin if i start hammering and the DIY wedge I made isn't holding the reel in place too well


----------



## TonyC

claydus said:


> joeker said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I never thought this was an issue. But I wanted to get everyones input.
> 
> Is this reel even usable? 3 out of the 11 blades are shown below from the right-hand side of the reel. The rest are not this bent. It cuts paper but it make a god awful noise when the reel is engaged. Not sure if its worth cutting my losses and investing in a newer reel and bedknife.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @claydus heat gun, hammer, and backlap.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah I think i will need to remove the reel to hammer it out. It just wants to spin if i start hammering and the DIY wedge I made isn't holding the reel in place too well
Click to expand...

You would be better off heating the crap out of it and using a vise, heavy duty clamp or some lever action. Striking hardened steel is not advised. It would certainly break the welds first.

There are a couple of ideas on YouTube like this...


----------



## claydus

Here is a better video from today. Reel is engaged and cutting paper. 
https://photos.app.goo.gl/U4HHo4NTVBPN7egw5

Here is a video of my running the reel in reverse with my drill with the drive chain removed. This is right after back lapping.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/RzxcLTG8hE7hkGDC6


----------



## ZachUA

On my 260SL, the GX120 Engine governor is surging. Has anyone fixed that issue before?


----------



## walk1355

ZachUA said:


> On my 260SL, the GX120 Engine governor is surging. Has anyone fixed that issue before?


Yes. Mine surged when I purchased. It can be several different things, but surging is usually due to an imbalance of fuel and air mixture. Usually it's because not enough fuel is making it into the engine for combustion so it surges. In my case, I took apart the carburetor and thoroughly cleaned it but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up purchasing an aftermarket on amazon, put it on, no more surging issue.

Also make sure all the correct gaskets are installed and not damaged. If any of the carb gaskets are missing, it will be sucking air through and that can cause it to surge as well, because that throws off the air and fuel balance.


----------



## ZachUA

walk1355 said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> On my 260SL, the GX120 Engine governor is surging. Has anyone fixed that issue before?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. Mine surged when I purchased. It can be several different things, but surging is usually due to an imbalance of fuel and air mixture. Usually it's because not enough fuel is making it into the engine for combustion so it surges. In my case, I took apart the carburetor and thoroughly cleaned it but it didn't fix the problem. I ended up purchasing an aftermarket on amazon, put it on, no more surging issue.
> 
> Also make sure all the correct gaskets are installed and not damaged. If any of the carb gaskets are missing, it will be sucking air through and that can cause it to surge as well, because that throws off the air and fuel balance.
Click to expand...

Thank you good sir! I replaced the carb with an aftermarket unit and is surging. There's a black idle adjustment screw and also a brass colored metal screw with a spring under it. What is that brass screw?


----------



## Jpatel181

TulsaFan said:


> I don't know if anyone has mentioned this or not? On the recommendation of someone on this board, I started ordering my John Deere parts from Green Farm Parts. After you register for their account, you can place your items in the shopping cart and leave the site without paying.
> 
> A few days later, they emailed me the coupon code (10Dollar) to complete the sale. I didn't bite and the next day they sent me another coupon code (15Dollar) to complete the sale. There is a minimum of at least $75 or more in parts.
> 
> Hopefully this strategy helps someone...


Oh no Wish i read your post two days ago I would have saved $15.00 i ordered $260.00 worth of parts for my newly acquired used JD 220E green mower. well too late but good to know.


----------



## Jpatel181

ZachUA said:


> On my 260SL, the GX120 Engine governor is surging. Has anyone fixed that issue before?
> [/quote
> Make sure to check Link for governor under the fuel tank it could be loose and it would cause surges. unfortunately you will have to take gas tank loose from engine in order to access the link and to tighten it. make sure to turn the governor spindle clockwise (towards the resistance) and ensuring the carb butterfly is open and while you tighten the link there is no play between links.
> hope it helps .
> there was a prior thread on the subject try to find and see the video on how to adjust governor on small engine. That would help.


----------



## ZachUA

Jpatel181 said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> On my 260SL, the GX120 Engine governor is surging. Has anyone fixed that issue before?
> [/quote
> Make sure to check Link for governor under the fuel tank it could be loose and it would cause surges. unfortunately you will have to take gas tank loose from engine in order to access the link and to tighten it. make sure to turn the governor spindle clockwise (towards the resistance) and ensuring the carb butterfly is open and while you tighten the link there is no play between links.
> hope it helps .
> there was a prior thread on the subject try to find and see the video on how to adjust governor on small engine. That would help.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you @Jpatel181
Click to expand...


----------



## Jpatel181

Hello everyone:
I am a newcomer who just acquired 2013 JD 220E from a private party in south Florida. I am in the process of giving it a complete service including Engine & Gear oil changes, greasing, changing Ball Joint, Belts, Tuneup, Back lapping reel and sharpening the Knife as it looks almost new (new one is 5" this one has 4.875") when does it need new one gets discarded and when does the knife need replaces?
also does anyone has any experience using LED light to replace stock light that is rusted out, and needs replacement. New replacement OEM light only costs $79.00 while on line LED kit made by Nilight SKU #600537011496 with wiring kit costs about 41 including shipping. Nilight claimed it would work with Mower but i would like to confirm if it will if anyone has experience working with LED lights on JD 220E. 
I appreciate reading everyone's posts and would sincerely appreciate your input before making my purchase of LED light kit.
Thank you.
Jay


----------



## ZachUA

@Jpatel181 would love to change my light out to a brighter led. Hoping someone has done this will chime in.


----------



## g-man

The bulb is an H3 12V 55W. There should be replacements in led.


----------



## driver_7

Replaced the left-hand drive chain on the 220A, the master link failed while mowing after I re-installed everything trying to fix the bearing the in the rear drum (ended up being fine.. the noise is coming from the differential, which I do not want to tear into, so that's a different day's task..). It was easy to install the new chain and it rolls much smoother now, go figure. It was $21 from my JD dealer.

The yard is getting torn up today for drainage install, so I think the reel is going to get put away from a few weeks while that gets patched up and I can ensure I'm free of rocks and debris. :sad: :bandit:


----------



## claydus

I have never used the GTC attachment on my JD220B but I inspected it and removed a good bit of old grease and added some new JD grease a few weeks back. I tried using the GTC this past week and it intermittently worked. While poking around today, I removed more old grease and found this hole... and also this gear/sprocket was not attached.

What are my options here? JB Weld is back on? Replace GTC drive case altogether?


----------



## Oceanus

Please consider adding you purchases to the new Mower Purchase List 3000


----------



## g-man

@claydus I'm not sure I understand the problem. These are the images of how that looks clean (from a 220E). https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1584&start=20#p33567


----------



## claydus

g-man said:


> @claydus I'm not sure I understand the problem. These are the images of how that looks clean (from a 220E). https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1584&start=20#p33567


From what I saw it looked like the gear/sprocket in the second image shared off completely from the GTC housing. The hole you see in the first image seemed oddly shaped. The gear doesn't mount to this hole on the case. It was just sitting there between the other 2 gears.

From the post you referenced there should be a hole there in the GTC case


----------



## Necrosis

Has anyone had trouble with an uneven height of cut? My yard is not the flattest and could be better but it seems consistent throughout the lawn. If noticed some ruts and tried to adjust the front roller on both sides to make sure it's the same height in relation to the drum and bed knife. Anything else I should check?


----------



## 985arrowhead

I immediately recognized that look and knew you had a 180! I have a 180C and have the same thing happen to me from time to time. I too also check my HOC, etc but what I find most often is I do not overlap my passes well enough and leave that small little strip of grass on the edge of the stripe. It happens most often when the grass has not gotten a mow for more than the usual every 3 days. I am maintaining a HOC of under .5 (0.45 after most recent reset a few weeks ago).

Give it a double cut in a second direction and try cutting more often with a little more overlap. Helps me every time.

The marks on the grass catcher just don't do a good of giving you enough overlap!

Or I can't mow straight.....&#128514;&#127866;&#129347;&#129346;&#127863;&#129318;‍♂


----------



## mantnyh

Necrosis said:


> Has anyone had trouble with an uneven height of cut? My yard is not the flattest and could be better but it seems consistent throughout the lawn. If noticed some ruts and tried to adjust the front roller on both sides to make sure it's the same height in relation to the drum and bed knife. Anything else I should check?


This is hilarious. I thought that was my picture that I literally just posted in the warm season section. I have the exact same issue!


----------



## nathan99218

Does this wire go to anything? the 180b seems to run fine. Maybe low oil switch? Just curious! Thanks!


----------



## claydus

nathan99218 said:


> Does this wire go to anything? the 180b seems to run fine. Maybe low oil switch? Just curious! Thanks!


This may be for the light kit. I have this on mine it seem to run to the light.


----------



## walk1355

So I've got a weird issue that I want everyone's opinion on.

I put a new set of matched belts on my JD 260SL this past winter. While mowing 2 months ago I noticed a small, about 1" long section of belt in my yard. Didn't think much of it and just finished mowing. I thought maybe it was something that was already in my yard burried and mowing brought it to the surface. Today, I noticed another piece of rubber in my front yard, about the same size. So I pulled the belt cover off and discovered what you see in the pictures. Something is eating through my belts causing them to lose chunks of rubber. I'm going to order some new belts and replace.

My question to the group is, what could be causing this? The belts seem relatively loose now but when I installed them, I tried to make sure I followed the manual and leave only the specified amount of slack.

Thanks


----------



## walk1355

walk1355 said:


> So I've got a weird issue that I want everyone's opinion on.
> 
> I put a new set of matched belts on my JD 260SL this past winter. While mowing 2 months ago I noticed a small, about 1" long section of belt in my yard. Didn't think much of it and just finished mowing. I thought maybe it was something that was already in my yard burried and mowing brought it to the surface. Today, I noticed another piece of rubber in my front yard, about the same size. So I pulled the belt cover off and discovered what you see in the pictures. Something is eating through my belts causing them to lose chunks of rubber. I'm going to order some new belts and replace.
> 
> My question to the group is, what could be causing this? The belts seem relatively loose now but when I installed them, I tried to make sure I followed the manual and leave only the specified amount of slack.
> 
> Thanks


Looking for any input here as mh belts will arrive this week and I don't want the same issue to happen again.


----------



## TonyC

@walk1355

How much deflection is the idler putting on the belt? From what I'm reading V-Belts shouldn't be flexed excessively from the outside. You may need to move the engine back to get less belt deflection but similar tension.

Tension Info
"Incorrect belt tension (as well as pulley misalignment) adversely affects belt drive reliability and efficiency.

After the pulleys have been aligned, it is very important to tension the belts to manufacturer's recommendations. Pulley Pro® enables all three alignment conditions to be monitored simultaneously. The accuracy of the alignment is greatly increased and the process can be completed quickly and easily."

V-belt_troubleshooting_guide.pdf


----------



## g-man

Both belts were changed and both are failing? Do you know the age of the belt (from manufacturing)?


----------



## walk1355

g-man said:


> Both belts were changed and both are failing? Do you know the age of the belt (from manufacturing)?


@g-man I purchased them this past winter/spring from R&R. I am not sure when they were manufactured.


----------



## bp2878

I need a grass catcher for 220, anyone have one I can buy?


----------



## ZachUA

Anyone ever experience a metallic clank sound coming from the mower when first engaging the drive mechanism? It makes sound for a split second as it's engaging the roller. (the reel is not engaged, so this wouldn't be coming from the reel). 260SL is model.


----------



## g-man

Check for a loose chain in the drum roller.


----------



## ZachUA

g-man said:


> Check for a loose chain in the drum roller.


This would be on the side of the mower, right?


----------



## TonyC

g-man said:


> Check for a loose chain in the drum roller.


Exactly what I was thinking. Pop off the side covers and take a look at the tension on the chains. Verify all your drive bearings are good. I would also do what mechanics do and scope it. Use an probe or hard metal object (screwdriver) to feel/listen to the different parts of the mower. This might help if you're listening to the parts inside the gear case assembly. OBVIOUSLY with the REEL DISENGAGED. Even have someone else engage the drive and you put your hand in different places to see if you can feel where it's happening.


----------



## mattcoughlin

I have a dilemma. There are a bunch of native cedar trees on my neighbors property behind my house (near Seattle) and they are always dropping pine cones in my yard. I'm raking for about 15 minutes every time i mow my yard. I was wondering if the brush or turf conditioner would pick them. They are only about 1" in diameter. It would save my a bunch of time and would be worth the investment.


----------



## ZachUA

TonyC said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> Check for a loose chain in the drum roller.
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly what I was thinking. Pop off the side covers and take a look at the tension on the chains. Verify all your drive bearings are good. I would also do what mechanics do and scope it. Use an probe or hard metal object (screwdriver) to feel/listen to the different parts of the mower. This might help if you're listening to the parts inside the gear case assembly. OBVIOUSLY with the REEL DISENGAGED. Even have someone else engage the drive and you put your hand in different places to see if you can feel where it's happening.
Click to expand...

So I cut with it last weekend. When I go to engage the roller, it makes the clank sound as I mentioned but it kills the motor. The only way to take off and mow is to feather the engagement very gently and it will take off (but it still makes the clank sound). Once we're off and running there is no other sound. The sound it's making combined with the engine stall is making me worried it's a trans issue. I'm going to pop off the cover tonight and take a look at the chain either way.


----------



## ZachUA

Here's the chain.


----------



## g-man

You will need to check both sides. The chain there looks loose. You should check the deflection.


----------



## claydus

walk1355 said:


> So I've got a weird issue that I want everyone's opinion on.
> 
> I put a new set of matched belts on my JD 260SL this past winter. While mowing 2 months ago I noticed a small, about 1" long section of belt in my yard. Didn't think much of it and just finished mowing. I thought maybe it was something that was already in my yard burried and mowing brought it to the surface. Today, I noticed another piece of rubber in my front yard, about the same size. So I pulled the belt cover off and discovered what you see in the pictures. Something is eating through my belts causing them to lose chunks of rubber. I'm going to order some new belts and replace.
> 
> My question to the group is, what could be causing this? The belts seem relatively loose now but when I installed them, I tried to make sure I followed the manual and leave only the specified amount of slack.
> 
> Thanks


Does the idler pulley spin freely? Does it feel rough when spinning? I replaced my pulley recently it improved the engagement of drive action of the mower.


----------



## ZachUA

g-man said:


> You will need to check both sides. The chain there looks loose. You should check the deflection.


When you say check both sides do you mean both chains on that side or that I need take cover off other side of mower and check there?


----------



## g-man

The other cover too. Since it is a split drum, it has chains on both sides to drive both sides of the drum independently.


----------



## ZachUA

g-man said:


> The other cover too. Since it is a split drum, it has chains on both sides to drive both sides of the drum independently.


Ok thank you good sir!

Looking at the diagram, I'm just going to order all three chains left and right. Do I also need parts 15 and 16 pictured below? 15 is labeled as 'chain link offset' and 16 is 'chain link coupler'. Whenever I've order chains for dirt bikes or bicycles they always came with everything you needed but seeing those extra parts separated out to the side of the exploded view made me wonder.


----------



## g-man

If you buy the chains, it comes with the links. I would suggest getting the top small sprocket too. Mine had a lot of wear.


----------



## TonyC

ZachUA said:


> Here's the chain.


Like @g-man says, the deflection looks greater than spec, which is to be expected. Your chains have stretched and probably worn the sprockets a bit as well. Enough to make a clank, probably not. There are also two chains inside the Gear Case Assembly which may be warn, but should only be under load when the reel is engaged, not just the drive lever.

*Specifications*
Traction Roller Drive Chain Deflection (Max at Mid Span Opposite Idler) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 mm (0.43 in.)
_While you're in there..._
Reel Drive Chain Deflection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 mm (0.472 in.)

Here's a picture of new chains on my 220SL.


----------



## TonyC

@ZachUA I would leave the covers off and test the engagement. If the chains look like they bind up then you have your answer. @g-man mentioned the small sprocket, that could bind up if the links have stretched enough. The larger sprockets would be more forgiving. Again, while you're in there, double check all of your large mounting bolts, making sure they are torqued properly, something could be moving around.


----------



## ZachUA

Thank you @TonyC and @g-man !

I went ahead and ordered all 3 chains, plus all of the small sprockets. The reel chain def had more deflection than is spec and the tensioner was already maxed out.


----------



## thkwilson

Looking to purchase my first greensmower. Have a lead on a JD 260. They are asking $1,400 for it. Was really wanting some input on whether or not this was a good deal and if you see anything that is potentially wrong with the mower. I know it is hard to tell from just the two pics. Seller says he thinks it is 10 years old. Has a new bed knife and the reel was just sharpened. I am wanting to mow my common bermuda at 1 inch before I do a renovation next year. Thanks for any help in advance.


----------



## Bmossin

thkwilson said:


> Looking to purchase my first greensmower. Have a lead on a JD 260. They are asking $1,400 for it. Was really wanting some input on whether or not this was a good deal and if you see anything that is potentially wrong with the mower. I know it is hard to tell from just the two pics. Seller says he thinks it is 10 years old. Has a new bed knife and the reel was just sharpened. I am wanting to mow my common bermuda at 1 inch before I do a renovation next year. Thanks for any help in advance.


I have a 180C and love it, but like you said, hard to tell from the pics. I want to get a 220 or 260 but don't want to spend the $$$. Ask if there is a spot you can mow with it, to see how well everything engages and cuts.

Do you plan to eventually be lower than an inch? Keep in mind these mowers are usually designed to cut less than an inch.


----------



## thkwilson

[/quote]

I have a 180C and love it, but like you said, hard to tell from the pics. I want to get a 220 or 260 but don't want to spend the $$$. Ask if there is a spot you can mow with it, to see how well everything engages and cuts.

Do you plan to eventually be lower than an inch? Keep in mind these mowers are usually designed to cut less than an inch.
[/quote]

From what I was told and my limited knowledge of reel mowers, this model has a seven blade reel and the HOC on this unit can go up to an inch or slightly higher. I plan to initially mow at around an inch and gradually lower the HOC. Do you think that price is in the reasonable range for a 260?


----------



## Bmossin

Without seeing it and getting to mess with it, I can not say if that is fair or not. I got my 180 for a lot cheaper but was taking a chance on if it would even work.

If this cuts well, and the engine purrs I would pull the trigger.

There is an auction starting tonight where you could probably get something cheaper but are taking an even bigger risk on if it works etc. And then also have to figure out shipping unless you do a road trip.

Me personally, if I had the funds, I would probably get it...knowing that I may have something to wrench on.

Does it have the transport wheels? Not necessarily a deal breaker, but I like mine and that can become a negotiation point.

https://www.weeksfarmmachinery.com/...ent-auction-bidding-ends-wednesday-au-bw40472


----------



## thkwilson

Bmossin said:


> Without seeing it and getting to mess with it, I can not say if that is fair or not. I got my 180 for a lot cheaper but was taking a chance on if it would even work.
> 
> If this cuts well, and the engine purrs I would pull the trigger.
> 
> There is an auction starting tonight where you could probably get something cheaper but are taking an even bigger risk on if it works etc. And then also have to figure out shipping unless you do a road trip.
> 
> Me personally, if I had the funds, I would probably get it...knowing that I may have something to wrench on.
> 
> Does it have the transport wheels? Not necessarily a deal breaker, but I like mine and that can become a negotiation point.
> 
> https://www.weeksfarmmachinery.com/...ent-auction-bidding-ends-wednesday-au-bw40472


It runs well and the engine does purr. One pull start. Went by to look at it yesterday. Guy selling it sharpens reels and maintains reel mowers for a living. He seems to be an honest guy. He installed a new bed knife and sharpened the reel. Thanks for your time and help. I may just have to pull the trigger. This thing is big and will definitely take some space in the garage!


----------



## Bmossin




----------



## g-man

@thkwilson make sure it fits thru any fence gate you might have.


----------



## artb

Came across this JD 220A. Apparently its at a shop that services golf equipment. The seller is claiming the seals and bearings are all good and nothings leaking. Also saying it runs well. It has an 11 blade reel on it and a catcher also.
Sounding too good to be true. Asking $1000, so i figure i can work that down a little bit. Of course i do plan on seeing it in person before i purchase it but the unit is just shy of 2 hours away from me.
I plan on keeping my lawn around 1", so i know a 7-8 blade reel is better. 
Will i be able to source parts fairly easily being that the unit is probably at least 20 years old?
What do our JD experts think?
I am also able to source Toro GM1600 from a reputable dealer for about $1500. Wondering if maybe that could be a better route instead. Thanks in advance

*edit: got the serial # for the mower, and it is a 220A 1999 model*


----------



## g-man

@artb I think you should pass on this one. It is a 220, so around 20 years old. The order goes 220, 220A, 220B, 220C and then 220SL. Source parts in canada might be expensive. Try to find some parts for it (eg. reel).


----------



## artb

@g-man Got the serial from the guy and it turns out to be a 1999 220A. Aside from the reel itself, typically what other parts are involved in making a conversion from 11 to 7 blade reels for example.
maybe @Pete1313 can shed some light on this too?


----------



## g-man

Bearings, grease, seals, anything else you find wrong.


----------



## claydus

Tonight I took a hacksaw to my transport axles... Not going to miss running into objects or smashing my foot against them!


----------



## claydus

Well this morning brought a nice surprise... my garage had a strong odor of gas fumes this morning... I filled up the mower about 1/2 way yesterday and I didn't spill any in the garage or on the mower. I hosed down mower after using it. Thinking I may have a problem with gas cap... Do they sell new ones for JD220? They seem be a universal cap. But I think replacing the rubber seal on the cap could do the job as well.

Anyone run into this before?


----------



## thkwilson

Bmossin said:


>


I did it and I am officially in love with the thing. I get it now. Hopefully the honeymoon phase never wears off. Thanks for your help!


----------



## The_iHenry

claydus said:


> Tonight I took a hacksaw to my transport axles... Not going to miss running into objects or smashing my foot against them!


Since you cut off your axles would you consider selling your parking stand?


----------



## claydus

The_iHenry said:


> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight I took a hacksaw to my transport axles... Not going to miss running into objects or smashing my foot against them!
> 
> 
> 
> Since you cut off your axles would you consider selling your parking stand?
Click to expand...

Welp funny thing is.... I bought it without a parking stand and no transport wheels


----------



## The_iHenry

claydus said:


> The_iHenry said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> Tonight I took a hacksaw to my transport axles... Not going to miss running into objects or smashing my foot against them!
> 
> 
> 
> Since you cut off your axles would you consider selling your parking stand?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Welp funny thing is.... I bought it without a parking stand and no transport wheels
Click to expand...

Right on. I figured I'd give it a shot? Thanks anyway.


----------



## Brackin4au

thkwilson said:


> Bmossin said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did it and I am officially in love with the thing. I get it now. Hopefully the honeymoon phase never wears off. Thanks for your help!
Click to expand...

Congrats man. I have a 260SL and love it. Quick note, I haven't tried, but I'm pretty sure it maxes out at 7/8", unless it's been modified. I haven't tried taking mine up that high so I'm not positive, but 7/8 is max on specs. Don't worry though, you'll be wanting to go well under an inch pretty quick haha...


----------



## Don_Bass

Has Anyone Swapped There Reel From 11 Blades To 7 Blades On A JD 180B.?


----------



## Stuofsci02

Hey guys... there are 3 JD 260SL units near me. They are 2014 models with 7 blade reels that were tee box mowers. What would be a fair price? The place will sharpen the reel and go over it and get it all cleaned up and ready to go.

Thanks


----------



## Jrich

I am ordering a new Fairway Hi-Cut bedknife from Green Farm Parts. Will I need to do any additional grinding, or just install the new bedknife and backlap?


----------



## Babameca

@Stuofsci02 You can't decide yet I can see :lol: How much do they ask. I saw 3500CAD which is pretty steep... I may second you on this if they set some more reasonable price tag. I am also looking...


----------



## Stuofsci02

I think they want $3000 CAD


----------



## SNOWBOB11

@Stuofsci02 $3000 for a 260SL is steep but if you are set on a JD mower there is such a limited number of options for used ones in this area. It already has a 7 blade reel which is great. The equipment they have at that location is used but in excellent condition. A lot of the stuff looks new. The sales guy mike has a slight bit of attitude when your dealing with him but he's not bad and is willing to negotiate the price. If $2500-$2600 is in your price range I'd try and get him to lower to somewhere around that and go for it. The JD mowers are top quality and you won't be disappointed.


----------



## Stuofsci02

SNOWBOB11 said:


> @Stuofsci02 $3000 for a 260SL is steep but if you are set on a JD mower there is such a limited number of options for used ones in this area. It already has a 7 blade reel which is great. The equipment they have at that location is used but in excellent condition. A lot of the stuff looks new. The sales guy mike has a slight bit of attitude when your dealing with him but he's not bad and is willing to negotiate the price. If $2500-$2600 is in your price range I'd try and get him to lower to somewhere around that and go for it. The JD mowers are top quality and you won't be disappointed.


Thanks Snowbob... That was the price range I was thinking too... it looks like a nice machine, and if it is in great condition then I think it is better than buying a machine for cheaper but spending tons on repairs and keeping it running..


----------



## SNOWBOB11

Stuofsci02 said:


> SNOWBOB11 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Stuofsci02 $3000 for a 260SL is steep but if you are set on a JD mower there is such a limited number of options for used ones in this area. It already has a 7 blade reel which is great. The equipment they have at that location is used but in excellent condition. A lot of the stuff looks new. The sales guy mike has a slight bit of attitude when your dealing with him but he's not bad and is willing to negotiate the price. If $2500-$2600 is in your price range I'd try and get him to lower to somewhere around that and go for it. The JD mowers are top quality and you won't be disappointed.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Snowbob... That was the price range I was thinking too... it looks like a nice machine, and if it is in great condition then I think it is better than buying a machine for cheaper but spending tons on repairs and keeping it running..
Click to expand...

No problem. Yeah some of the parts for these aren't cheap so to get one thats ready to go is a big plus. Maybe he will or maybe he won't be willing to lower the price but definitely doesn't hurt to ask.


----------



## driver_7

@artb, I would pass on it unless it's the only mower you can find for hundreds of miles.

[Disclaimer: This has absolutely, 100%, nothing to do with, or aimed at, the member I bought it from. Machines break and this was an auction machine.]

I bought my 220A for $400, it's a great machine when it works, but I'm over $1400 into it now and it breaks probably every other time I mow. :bandit: The shield over the reel was less rusty than that one appears to be, but one of the rivets rusted out and it became loose after the first mow. A replacement one, while my JD dealer found one quickly for me, was $200! Just replaced the chains after the rear drum started acting up and I still haven't diagnosed the problem entirely. I think something in the gear case is messed up. Can't wait to fix that... :lol: Various nuts and bolts, parts here and there. Adds up!

Going back and doing it all over, my wife even supports this method at this point, I would've bought one from the guys at Prairie Turf.

Got kind of carried away on this, I'm sick and can't go out and mow. :lol:


----------



## Stuofsci02

SNOWBOB11 said:


> Stuofsci02 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SNOWBOB11 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Stuofsci02 $3000 for a 260SL is steep but if you are set on a JD mower there is such a limited number of options for used ones in this area. It already has a 7 blade reel which is great. The equipment they have at that location is used but in excellent condition. A lot of the stuff looks new. The sales guy mike has a slight bit of attitude when your dealing with him but he's not bad and is willing to negotiate the price. If $2500-$2600 is in your price range I'd try and get him to lower to somewhere around that and go for it. The JD mowers are top quality and you won't be disappointed.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Snowbob... That was the price range I was thinking too... it looks like a nice machine, and if it is in great condition then I think it is better than buying a machine for cheaper but spending tons on repairs and keeping it running..
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No problem. Yeah some of the parts for these aren't cheap so to get one thats ready to go is a big plus. Maybe he will or maybe he won't be willing to lower the price but definitely doesn't hurt to ask.
Click to expand...

Snowbob,... How has your 220E been for you? I think you have been using it this entire season and it was a 2010 with about 1500 hours on it. When they cleaned it up for you, what did they do? Has your machine been reliable?


----------



## SNOWBOB11

Stuofsci02 said:


> SNOWBOB11 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuofsci02 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Snowbob... That was the price range I was thinking too... it looks like a nice machine, and if it is in great condition then I think it is better than buying a machine for cheaper but spending tons on repairs and keeping it running..
> 
> 
> 
> No problem. Yeah some of the parts for these aren't cheap so to get one thats ready to go is a big plus. Maybe he will or maybe he won't be willing to lower the price but definitely doesn't hurt to ask.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Snowbob,... How has your 220E been for you? I think you have been using it this entire season and it was a 2010 with about 1500 hours on it. When they cleaned it up for you, what did they do? Has your machine been reliable?
Click to expand...

I've had no problems since I purchased the 220E earlier this year. I've used it all of this season and it has worked as good as you would expect a new machine to. The mower was sitting for a while so all they did was to grease the fittings, change the oils and make sure everything was tight and ready to go. Along with changing the reel and bed knife but that was at my request because I wanted a 7 blade. It starts every time first pull. Even though they sell used equipment it's not a matter of buying something that will need some work to get mowing. That is how it was for me but I think most of the equipment they sell is ready to go. I was told my mower was used at a high end golf course in the area. He told me which one but I forget now.


----------



## Stuofsci02

SNOWBOB11 said:


> Stuofsci02 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SNOWBOB11 said:
> 
> 
> 
> No problem. Yeah some of the parts for these aren't cheap so to get one thats ready to go is a big plus. Maybe he will or maybe he won't be willing to lower the price but definitely doesn't hurt to ask.
> 
> 
> 
> Snowbob,... How has your 220E been for you? I think you have been using it this entire season and it was a 2010 with about 1500 hours on it. When they cleaned it up for you, what did they do? Has your machine been reliable?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've had no problems since I purchased the 220E earlier this year. I've used it all of this season and it has worked as good as you would expect a new machine to. The mower was sitting for a while so all they did was to grease the fittings, change the oils and make sure everything was tight and ready to go. Along with changing the reel and bed knife but that was at my request because I wanted a 7 blade. It starts every time first pull. Even though they sell used equipment it's not a matter of buying something that will need some work to get mowing. That is how it was for me but I think most of the equipment they sell is ready to go. I was told my mower was used at a high end golf course in the area. He told me which one but I forget now.
Click to expand...

That is great to hear! I would like the same experience.. Wish they had some more of the 220E units, but seems like it is not in the cards if I want to get something this year..

Cheers,

Stu


----------



## Babameca

@Stuofsci02 I will recommend you to call (their site is useless) turfcare.ca From all the calls I have done at golf courses in my area so far, they all lease from those guys and return after 3 years. They have 3 locations in ON and 2 in QC. I called one and the guy is now searching for me in my price range. They are a Toro dealer though....no JD's.
Hope that helps.


----------



## Stuofsci02

Babameca said:


> @Stuofsci02 I will recommend you to call (their site is useless) turfcare.ca From all the calls I have done at golf courses in my area so far, they all lease from those guys and return after 3 years. They have 3 locations in ON and 2 in QC. I called one and the guy is now searching for me in my price range. They are a Toro dealer though....no JD's.
> Hope that helps.


Thanks... Great information..


----------



## ZachUA

I believe I have found teh source of the clank sound I was hearing when I engaged the mower. I was replacing the roller chains and small sprockets, and on the sprocket on top left side of mower, the little key that holds the sprocket in place has wallowed out the cutout in the shaft. See pics:





Is the end of the shaft even replaceable or do you have to replace the entire thing from trans to sprocket? I'm wondering if I could simply buy a new key and have it tack welded in.


----------



## Gibby

joeker said:


> Having trouble with my 220 E-Cut.
> 
> My reel won't consistently turn over/engage. I follow the protocol to get the reel to engage, but often times as soon as I push the throttle lever forward, the reel will begin spinning for 1 second but stop. I have to disengage/re-engage the PTO switch and try the clutch lever again until it'll finally kick over and continue to spin. Increasing the throttle doesn't seem to help.
> Ideas??


Ever figure this out? Mine is having the same issue. Reel spins freely by hand and no flashing trouble light.


----------



## Gibby

@The_iHenry if you still need a stand PM me. Mine has one but didn't come with wheels.


----------



## Gibby

Anyone have the new link for the different HOC for the bed knifes?


----------



## Gibby

Gibby said:


> joeker said:
> 
> 
> 
> Having trouble with my 220 E-Cut.
> 
> My reel won't consistently turn over/engage. I follow the protocol to get the reel to engage, but often times as soon as I push the throttle lever forward, the reel will begin spinning for 1 second but stop. I have to disengage/re-engage the PTO switch and try the clutch lever again until it'll finally kick over and continue to spin. Increasing the throttle doesn't seem to help.
> Ideas??
> 
> 
> 
> Ever figure this out? Mine is having the same issue. Reel spins freely by hand and no flashing trouble light.
Click to expand...

Fixed. Had to adjust alternator belt per the manual.


----------



## artb

717driver said:


> @artb, I would pass on it unless it's the only mower you can find for hundreds of mile


 Thank you for the advice! i did end up passing on it and ended up going with a Toro GM 1600 instead. Way pricier but its hard to find greens mowers at decent prices up here in Ontario. Its coming with a brand new reel and bearings and fully serviced at least. Should be in my hands next week. Cant wait for the first mow!


----------



## Gibby

My 220E does not have the FOC adjustment. 
Anyone know the default FOC setting?


----------



## The_iHenry

Gibby said:


> My 220E does not have the FOC adjustment.
> Anyone know the default FOC setting?


I'm pretty sure they all come with one. It's usually behind a cover.


----------



## Gibby

The_iHenry said:


> Gibby said:
> 
> 
> 
> My 220E does not have the FOC adjustment.
> Anyone know the default FOC setting?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure they all come with one. It's usually behind a cover.
Click to expand...

I looked through the manual and found that shortly after I asked the question.


----------



## The_iHenry

Gibby said:


> The_iHenry said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gibby said:
> 
> 
> 
> My 220E does not have the FOC adjustment.
> Anyone know the default FOC setting?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure they all come with one. It's usually behind a cover.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I looked through the manual and found that shortly after I asked the question.
Click to expand...

Cool! Mine didn't have the decal around the knob so I had to order one. I think it was like $8. Idk what the default FOC is, can you post it if you find it? Thanks...


----------



## Gibby

The_iHenry said:


> Gibby said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The_iHenry said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure they all come with one. It's usually behind a cover.
> 
> 
> 
> I looked through the manual and found that shortly after I asked the question.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Cool! Mine didn't have the decal around the knob so I had to order one. I think it was like $8. Idk what the default FOC is, can you post it if you find it? Thanks...
Click to expand...

Not sure what the default is, but mine was set to 1. It is just a potentiometer.


----------



## The_iHenry

Gibby said:


> The_iHenry said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gibby said:
> 
> 
> 
> I looked through the manual and found that shortly after I asked the question.
> 
> 
> 
> Cool! Mine didn't have the decal around the knob so I had to order one. I think it was like $8. Idk what the default FOC is, can you post it if you find it? Thanks...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure what the default is, but mine was set to 1. It is just a potentiometer.
Click to expand...

how many blades do you have?


----------



## Gibby

The_iHenry said:


> Gibby said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The_iHenry said:
> 
> 
> 
> Cool! Mine didn't have the decal around the knob so I had to order one. I think it was like $8. Idk what the default FOC is, can you post it if you find it? Thanks...
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what the default is, but mine was set to 1. It is just a potentiometer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> how many blades do you have?
Click to expand...

11, set at 0.5", switched to the #5 position earlier today


----------



## joeker

Gibby said:


> Gibby said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> joeker said:
> 
> 
> 
> Having trouble with my 220 E-Cut.
> 
> My reel won't consistently turn over/engage. I follow the protocol to get the reel to engage, but often times as soon as I push the throttle lever forward, the reel will begin spinning for 1 second but stop. I have to disengage/re-engage the PTO switch and try the clutch lever again until it'll finally kick over and continue to spin. Increasing the throttle doesn't seem to help.
> Ideas??
> 
> 
> 
> Ever figure this out? Mine is having the same issue. Reel spins freely by hand and no flashing trouble light.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Fixed. Had to adjust alternator belt per the manual.
Click to expand...

@Gibby I apologize. Did not see this notification until now. I'll give this a whirl and see if it fixes my mower as well.

EDIT: @Gibby I did this today and it completely fixed my issues! Thanks!!!


----------



## ZachUA

Just wanted to check back see if anyone had any ideas for repairing the driveshaft on my JD260SL. The keyhole in the driveshaft became wallowed out when the chain, over time, developed bunch of slack. Previous owner didn't replace chain. Just kept running it, so every time the reel was engaged the cog/gear on the end of the driveshaft would free spin for a fraction of second till the loose chain caught, which eventually caused the key to wear against the keyhole. A new key will fit in the hole but the edges around it are rounded so it still can rock back and forth in the slot.

https://postimg.cc/dhmHcTrQ


----------



## g-man

Can you weld it?


----------



## ZachUA

g-man said:


> Can you weld it?


@g-man I think that is my plan of action. My main question is what the driveshaft made of? The end is covered in grease and black, so I can't tell if it's the same material as the exposed part of the driveshaft that runs from the trans to the side of the mower. The part that is always exposed to open air is silver and looks like it is raw metal of some sort, maybe aluminum?

Best case scenario would be the end is replaceable but I can't seem to find the part listed in the diagrams, so I'm thinking it's not. It def looks to be more slender than the rest of the driveshaft.



edit: 
Here's a screen shot of the transmission parts. #18 is listed as shaft reel. That part is about 440.00 bucks. :shock:


----------



## ZeonCypress

Brand new to the forum and this place has been a tremendous help, thank you all!

I bought a brand new John Deere 260 sl, reel mower with 11 blade reel with a GTC. (for $4,000, great deal right?). 
Question is how often should I use the GTC on my lawn when I mow? It can be disengaged at the flip of a switch. I just resodded about 2 months ago with Zeon Zoysia on about 3,200 sq.ft. lawn and have the cut set at 7/8" Mowing about every 4-5 days and the lawn doesn't look as thick as it was when I laid it. I'm concerned that because Zeon is slow growing (relatively) that it's cutting up the stolons faster then they can regrow. Thanks for any help in advance!


----------



## bkmanning

I recently purchased a JD 2500B from a pawn shop. The unit appears to be somewhat decent although the reels look like the previous owner mowed his gravel driveway. I will be taking the reels to Austin Turf & Tractor to determine which parts need to be replaced and/or repaired.  Trying to make your yard look like a golf course gets expensive quick.


----------



## bigmks

Any reason to purchase a 180 sl 2016 vs 220 sl 2012 beside one being newer?


----------



## Gibby

@bigmks cutting width. 18in vs 22in


----------



## bigmks

Gibby said:


> @bigmks cutting width. 18in vs 22in


Sorry I should have been more detailed. I understand the width part. I'm guessing it would be just a preference?


----------



## Gibby

@bigmks yeah I think so, I have a 220E and I love the E part of it, which it came in 26" width. So I guess I am saying the wider the better.


----------



## claydus

Its the parking brake even worth a damn on these mowers? My 220B parking brake looks like this fully engaged. And that's with the cable adjusted to tightest setting.








And here it is disengaged. 









What all can done on to fix this?


----------



## claydus

My drive lever has been catching here is and there when i engage and disengage it. I noticed some of the individual metal cables broke and started to fray. I think the ends are stuck inside the black housing itself. Is there a work around for this? Or is a new engagement cable needed?


----------



## claydus

How do these belts look like to everyone?


----------



## claydus

Went ahead with the throttle cable and holding off on the brake band and belts. From what I read no one uses the parking brake.

So the Green Tender Conditioner has never worked on my mower and has made some god awful noises. So today I dismantled the GTC.

My god the grease in the GTC smelled awful was a pain in the *** to remove. I got the case cleanup as much as I could while removing the gears and all.









Got everything out to cleaned for the most part. ALL snap rings look to be junk.









So the bad news. So if you look here one of gear mounts had completely sheared off.









And here is the bearings for the MT6090 for the GTC shaft. Completely rusted and destroyed.









Pricing out some parts for now. Going to see if I can find a neighbor could weld aluminum. Checking out snap rings

2 - ET16027 - Ball Bearing
2 - 40M7085 - Snap ring
1 - 40M7186 - Snap ring
1 - MT16828 - Seal
1 - 24M3527 - Washer
2 - MT6909 - Ball Bearing 
2 - 40MT1856 - Snap ring

Also does anyone know if the gear oil should look like this?


----------



## g-man

You can find some of the bearings locally or Amazon. They are standard catalog parts.


----------



## claydus

g-man said:


> You can find some of the bearings locally or Amazon. They are standard catalog parts.


I think found some Amazon and I know John Deere of Greensville SC should have them. If there is a generic bearing that an online store sells that would be ideal. I just don't know proper sizes of the bearings


----------



## g-man

In the red seal of the bearing you will see a number ###-2rs or in the bearing surface. That's the standard number. Search for that number on Amazon. I know I used 6002-2rs, 6202 among others.


----------



## claydus

g-man said:


> In the red seal of the bearing you will see a number ###-2rs or in the bearing surface. That's the standard number. Search for that number on Amazon. I know I used 6002-2rs, 6202 among others.


It's the 6002-RS. Found plenty of them online. I also need 2 6001-LL a tad smaller than the 6002.

Also I need 4 shaft seals. The part number starts with SB2 on actual seal. @g-man it calls for part number MT6828 from the JD catalog. Any generic parts out there for this one? I would think a simple 32mm oil/hydraulic seal would do the trick. Thoughts?


----------



## Smartluck

ZachUA said:


> Just wanted to check back see if anyone had any ideas for repairing the driveshaft on my JD260SL. The keyhole in the driveshaft became wallowed out when the chain, over time, developed bunch of slack. Previous owner didn't replace chain. Just kept running it, so every time the reel was engaged the cog/gear on the end of the driveshaft would free spin for a fraction of second till the loose chain caught, which eventually caused the key to wear against the keyhole. A new key will fit in the hole but the edges around it are rounded so it still can rock back and forth in the slot.
> 
> https://postimg.cc/dhmHcTrQ


Maybe cut a key way on the other side or cut the key way a little larger and have a "step key" made for it.


----------



## ZachUA

Smartluck said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just wanted to check back see if anyone had any ideas for repairing the driveshaft on my JD260SL. The keyhole in the driveshaft became wallowed out when the chain, over time, developed bunch of slack. Previous owner didn't replace chain. Just kept running it, so every time the reel was engaged the cog/gear on the end of the driveshaft would free spin for a fraction of second till the loose chain caught, which eventually caused the key to wear against the keyhole. A new key will fit in the hole but the edges around it are rounded so it still can rock back and forth in the slot.
> 
> https://postimg.cc/dhmHcTrQ
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe cut a key way on the other side or cut the key way a little larger and have a "step key" made for it.
Click to expand...

Thanks I will look into that. I have a new key on order to be delivered this week.


----------



## claydus

Jrich said:


> Thanks for the tip @g-man . Going to do that.
> 
> @Pete1313 Just to clarify this is the part you are talking about?


Hey guys! Did this part come with the bearings, washer, snap ring and seals?

The JD Catalog shows this as part labeled 32 in this image


----------



## g-man

TCA19986 description only says housing. I doubt it has the bearings and seals. The image does make it look like it has them.


----------



## claydus

g-man said:


> TCA19986 description only says housing. I doubt it has the bearings and seals. The image does make it look like it has them.


I guess we will see in about a week... ordered the housing and a few other items

Changed the oil this evening with Turf-Gard and the transmission oil with Hy-Gard. The transmission oil is supposed to look a bit clear gold tint also like color of some motor oil. My old transmission oil looked really dark as stated in a previous post. Not sure I f or when it was ever changed. :? :?


----------



## jhealy748

So I picked up a JD 3215A yesterday! Its a bit old but had been sitting for 2 years and when I went to get it it started right up and ran great! I am having some trouble finding sources for parts though and thought maybe this group would know where to go! the link on the 2nd page to the green parts store I think it was doesn't list it as a model and if I search for 3215A I get the reels is about it. That is probably the most important as it is going to need new reels I think pretty soon. They are pretty much down to the webbing on the reel. I will get some pictures tonight for all to see and will keep you all updated as I restore this thing over the winter! Any tips or advice would be awesome! Thanks!


----------



## Biggylawns

Does anybody have a jd180b? I picked one up and I'm trying to max out the HOC but the adjustment knobs don't allow the lock nuts to move up 100% - the adjustment knob bottoms out before the nut is at the top. Beacuse of this happening, I can only get a max HOC of .80; however, there still looks to be about 25-30% more room above the lock nut.


----------



## claydus

jhealy748 said:


> So I picked up a JD 3215A yesterday! Its a bit old but had been sitting for 2 years and when I went to get it it started right up and ran great! I am having some trouble finding sources for parts though and thought maybe this group would know where to go! the link on the 2nd page to the green parts store I think it was doesn't list it as a model and if I search for 3215A I get the reels is about it. That is probably the most important as it is going to need new reels I think pretty soon. They are pretty much down to the webbing on the reel. I will get some pictures tonight for all to see and will keep you all updated as I restore this thing over the winter! Any tips or advice would be awesome! Thanks!


Check this link out https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/67286

The JD catalog should be able to show all the parts and diagram associated with this mower.. If you copy the part number you think you need, then paste into greenpartstore search. Typically, if you search by mower it just shows the most common bought parts. If you can't find it there, then you can search for nearest John Deere Golf Equipment Dealer on the John Deere site. These dealers can get you squared away with parts but you have to know the exact part number. Sadly a lot of the parts are kinda expensive but worth it in the long run.

Sounds like an awesome machine! Have any pictures? :thumbup:


----------



## claydus

Biggylawns said:


> Does anybody have a jd180b? I picked one up and I'm trying to max out the HOC but the adjustment knobs don't allow the lock nuts to move up 100% - the adjustment knob bottoms out before the nut is at the top. Beacuse of this happening, I can only get a max HOC of .80; however, there still looks to be about 25-30% more room above the lock nut.


I have a 220B with the similar adjustment for HOC. Did you loosen the bolt right below the adjustment knob? These must be loosen to move HOC up or down. Also, have you greased/lubed up the zerks fitting on top of the adjustment knob? Mind were really hard to move since part of the stud it travels up and down got a little rusted.


----------



## Biggylawns

claydus said:


> Biggylawns said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody have a jd180b? I picked one up and I'm trying to max out the HOC but the adjustment knobs don't allow the lock nuts to move up 100% - the adjustment knob bottoms out before the nut is at the top. Beacuse of this happening, I can only get a max HOC of .80; however, there still looks to be about 25-30% more room above the lock nut.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 220B with the similar adjustment for HOS. Did you loosen the bolt right below the adjustment knob? These must be loosen to move HOC up or down. Also, have you greased/lubed up the zerks fitting on top of the adjustment knob? Mind were really hard to move since part of the stud it travels up and down got a little rusted.
Click to expand...

Yup. When I got it I greased all zerks and adjusted the reel/HOC per the manual. It was set to about .1 and I got it up to .8 and ran it fine. It just cut too much off so I was looking to raise it up more since I had room (or thought I had room). I included some pics to show what I mean...

Highest the bolt/nut will go in this slot, even though a substantial amount of room above it:



Highest HOC setting that I can get (.80) as the adjustment knob is touching the nut below it and it has nowhere to go:



If I lower the HOC, the adjustment knob and nut below now has a gap:


----------



## claydus

Biggylawns said:


> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Biggylawns said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody have a jd180b? I picked one up and I'm trying to max out the HOC but the adjustment knobs don't allow the lock nuts to move up 100% - the adjustment knob bottoms out before the nut is at the top. Beacuse of this happening, I can only get a max HOC of .80; however, there still looks to be about 25-30% more room above the lock nut.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 220B with the similar adjustment for HOS. Did you loosen the bolt right below the adjustment knob? These must be loosen to move HOC up or down. Also, have you greased/lubed up the zerks fitting on top of the adjustment knob? Mind were really hard to move since part of the stud it travels up and down got a little rusted.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yup. When I got it I greased all zerks and adjusted the reel/HOC per the manual. It was set to about .1 and I got it up to .8 and ran it fine. It just cut too much off so I was looking to raise it up more since I had room (or thought I had room). I included some pics to show what I mean...
> 
> Highest the bolt/nut will go in this slot, even though a substantial amount of room above it:
> 
> 
> 
> Highest HOC setting that I can get (.80) as the adjustment knob is touching the nut below it and it has nowhere to go:
> 
> 
> 
> If I lower the HOC, the adjustment knob and nut below now has a gap:
Click to expand...

Yeah that looks odd... like someone shorten or used a different length of stud on the adjustment knob

**EDIT** Just checked mine. My HOC is right around 0.75 and my stud are in the same position.... it can't go much higher


----------



## Biggylawns

Alright, I guess I'll pick up some bolts in the offseason and swap them out. Thanks for confirming!


----------



## claydus

Biggylawns said:


> Alright, I guess I'll pick up some bolts in the offseason and swap them out. Thanks for confirming!


My looks almost exactly like yours. I can't go much higher.


----------



## Biggylawns

Hmm, I might just undo the knob and take the bolt to HD and see if I can match the thread size but longer. If not, I'll buy 1 from my local JD place and see what length that is. I've been scouring the web for max HOC on this but can't find anything. Most other JDs are slightly over 1 so this seems like it should get there and due to the wear marks on the bracket roller it did at one time.


----------



## claydus

Biggylawns said:


> Hmm, I might just undo the knob and take the bolt to HD and see if I can match the thread size but longer. If not, I'll buy 1 from my local JD place and see what length that is. I've been scouring the web for max HOC on this but can't find anything. Most other JDs are slightly over 1 so this seems like it should get there and due to the wear marks on the bracket roller it did at one time.


The min and max HOC can also vary depending on the model of the bedknife that you have. Do you have a model number on this?


----------



## jhealy748

Got the new mower finally! I am wondering if anyone can tell from the pictures what version of reels this has? I didn't realize there were more than one option and looking through the service manual I cant quite tell for sure if they are the heavy duty ones or just the standard? It says there are serial numbers on the individual reel housings too I guess but I haven't had a chance to look for them yet.


----------



## claydus

jhealy748 said:


> Got the new mower finally! I am wondering if anyone can tell from the pictures what version of reels this has? I didn't realize there were more than one option and looking through the service manual I cant quite tell for sure if they are the heavy duty ones or just the standard? It says there are serial numbers on the individual reel housings too I guess but I haven't had a chance to look for them yet.


----------



## jhealy748

Does anyone have a resource to check this serial number to find out which reel option these are? I believe there is standard and heavy duty but the service manual also shows a 2500M option I think it was?


----------



## claydus

g-man said:


> TCA19986 description only says housing. I doubt it has the bearings and seals. The image does make it look like it has them.


This part came with both bearings, seal and snap ring already installed!!!


----------



## luckybb

claydus said:


> Jrich said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the tip @g-man . Going to do that.
> 
> @Pete1313 Just to clarify this is the part you are talking about?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys! Did this part come with the bearings, washer, snap ring and seals?
> 
> The JD Catalog shows this as part labeled 32 in this image
Click to expand...

the parts labeled 28 are bearings, the part labeled 27 is a snap ring


----------



## jhealy748

So not sure if this is the right place to ask this question so feel free to move it if need be. I am working on restoring the reels on my new to me 3215 and I'm trying to figure out optimal speed to mow at with what I have. I replaced the reels that were in the mower due to them being down to the webbing on a few of them, and i plan on mowing somewhere between .5" and 1" so I bought the 7 blade reels due to them being the lowest blade count I could get. My concern is that the manual says reel speed unloaded is 2100 RPM so according to my calculations, I would need to be mowing at 16 MPH in order to hit my optimal clip rate! I think I can turn the reel speed down if I am reading things right but I have not had a chance to experiment with this since I have the entire mower torn apart. Can anybody confirm this? My other concern is if there is any issue with turning the reel speed down too far? If I can dial the reel speed back to around 1000 RPM and cut closer to the .5" mark I can get speed down to 3.5 but im not sure my yard is ready to go straight to .5" How do I verify what speed the reels are turning other than just turning the dial to half and assuming its half of the 2100 the manual states. Am I overthinking all of this too much??


----------



## claydus

Ok sorry for the bad quality of the image.

Calling all GTC (Greens Tender Conditioner) EXPERTS!!! Anything look odd with this picture? Should the Collar Gear (on the left) have the same length splines to the right gear (whatever they are called)? The 2 rod looking pieces? The engage the GTC drive from the on/off lever.

I am having a hell of a time installing this back to the mower. I removed A LOT of old grease and I spin the reel with the GTC lever on but nothing happens. I have the lever in the collar gear grove so it move back and forth.

Any iseas?


----------



## g-man

I don't see the brass coupling that goes inside the part on the right. That's the slip piece that makes all of this work.


----------



## claydus

g-man said:


> I don't see the brass coupling that goes inside the part on the right. That's the slip piece that makes all of this work.


Of course... John Deere doesn't list this with a part # on the parts catalog. Anyone have a picture of what it may look like?


----------



## g-man

I wanted to buy just that part. They don't seem to sell it. I took dimensions to find a similar one. I have them at home.

In my rebuild I took pictures of it. It is a wear part and it seems that it is only sold with the gear ($$$$).


----------



## g-man




----------



## claydus

g-man said:


>


Nice! My shift collar gear is definitely worn down! Welp another $80 part.

Any images of the final assembly? I see the brass fitting goes between the gears? Or does it sit behind the engagement gear with the snap-ring?


----------



## g-man

These are for the 220E. From looking at other GTC they look similar in design.

I have a ton of more images. I will post them later.


----------



## g-man

The brass bearing goes inside the sprocket. It has an internal oil groove, but I'm not sure why they did that since this uses a thick grease.


The sprocket goes into the shaft after you place the two sealed bearing on the end with a washer in between. This sprocket is always turning when the reel turns. The brass bearing seats against the inner race of the seal bearing so the sprocket cannot touch the sealed bearing. 


The other sprocket then is using the shaft star pattern to turn and it slides forward or back using the on and off knob. 


When the knob is in the on position, the two sprockets connect to turn the groomer shaft. When it is in the off position, the sprocket on the right turn and it slips under the brass bearing and the shaft does not turn.


----------



## claydus

When I took apart the GTC... I was missing the brass fitting, brass washer, and snap ring.

I have a standard size washer that is 1.5 inch diameter. It needs to be a slightly smaller size but I can't find a hardware store that carries metric washers this big.


----------



## csmitty

Hi Guys, I'm just getting into the lawn scene and getting a reel ready for the spring. Put down 3100sqft of zeon zoysia 7 weeks ago and gave a it a trim with the rotary to even it out a bit before it goes dormant in a few weeks. Little later than I would have liked but here in GA its taken root pretty good in that time. I've been working on a back yard renovation and still have some patio work to do. Then in the spring will get around to leveling and soding the front.

I picked up a 2500A ($300ish) from a gov. auction a few years ago in anticipation of a new lawn and quickly realized it was going to be way to big. Not to mention storing and maintenance of 3 reels. So I picked up a 220A of CL for a good price, I think it was around $250-$300. Its been sitting for about 2 years as well but I swapped the carb and fired up 2nd pull. Ran it around the yard some with the reel disengaged to maybe help get some bumps out. Some leveling will still be needed.

However I stumbled upon an gov auction for some 220E's minus the reels from a course and figured I'd take a chance on them. Went and picked them up today. Some are more complete than others. Made in 2009. They kept the reels to swap onto their existing ones when one of them needs sharpening. Less down time on the mower which makes sense. So hopefully I can find a decent deal on some QA5s I can swap in and hopefully sell 1 or 2 complete to make up some costs. If not then parting out might be an option. So we'll see. Either way I'm excited to be here and learning as much as I can to keep this zeon in great shape.










So now that makes 5 walk behinds and a triplex reel mower


----------



## g-man

@claydus

When I was rebuilding the 220E I could not find my caliper. I used a paper to trace the OD, ID and length of the brass bearing. I now measured it from the paper as 20mm OD, 14mm ID, and 24mm length.


----------



## claydus

@g-man any recommendations on where I could start looking for a brass bushing like this? Found a few by googling "John Deere brass bushing." Also found a bronze bushing as well

I found 1 with part number M45204


----------



## g-man

This is the closest I could quickly find, but the length is too short. A local machine shop might know how to find this locally.

https://oilite.com/products?view=partdetails&partid=1719&uom=Imperial&back=PS


----------



## claydus

g-man said:


> This is the closest I could quickly find, but the length is too short. A local machine shop might know how to find this locally.
> 
> https://oilite.com/products?view=partdetails&partid=1719&uom=Imperial&back=PS


Found this but 4mm too long. Seems cheap enough that I could attempt to shorten it.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32509038400.html


----------



## claydus

Did more digging on Amazon @g-man

Ordered these for now... 1mm off from you measurements... closest match i could find anywhere on the web
uxcell Bearing Sleeve 14mm Bore x 20mm OD x 25mm Length
https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Self-Lubricating-Bearing-Sintered-Bushings/dp/B07HSYHFPS/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?keywords=%2214mm+Bore%22%2B%2220mm+OD%22+bushing&qid=1573953883&sr=8-2-fkmr2


----------



## claydus

@g-man I thought my brass bushing was missing from the GTC sprocket. Today, after wiping it down thoroughly I saw a faint color of brass inside the sprocket. It worn severely wedged inside the sprocket. It was only about 2 mm thick. I was able to pry some of it out and then drill the rest of it out today.

Here is what left of it that i was able to pry out at the very end.









I got my chinese brass bushing from Amazon yesterday. It is slightly too big even when put in the freezer. Looking into options to drilling more out if the sprocket and sanding/filling down outside diameter down


----------



## mattcoughlin

heat the sprocket with a torch as well as put the bushing in the freezer. you can always put it in the oven (i use a toaster oven) at 450 if your not comfortable torching it. Or just take it to be pressed in.


----------



## g-man

@claydus Did you measure the brass bushing and the sprocket? I dont recall it being a press fit. @Pete1313 Do you remember?


----------



## g-man

Also, looking at your sprocket, it looks different than mine (see images a few post above).


----------



## claydus

g-man said:


> Also, looking at your sprocket, it looks different than mine (see images a few post above).


Yours definitely looks brand new. Mine is for a 220B not sure if part is the same. The 2 teeth that engage the other gear are worn down a bit. Also your brass bushing looks quite smaller in wall thickness.


----------



## Pete1313

g-man said:


> @claydus Did you measure the brass bushing and the sprocket? I dont recall it being a press fit. @Pete1313 Do you remember?


That brass bushing was not a press fit. At least it is not in the QA5 GTC drive assembly.


----------



## lucusmarcus

Anybody have an idea on the age, model and shape on this?


----------



## Brackin4au

Hard to say on the age, but it looks to be pre-1997 at least... no clue on the model, but it looks to be in pretty rough shape as-is. Can't really tell how much life is left on the reel, but the brush looks pretty rough compared to a newer one, showing that it was used a lonnnng time. The belt cover being open to the elements long enough to have debri piled up worries me too...


----------



## Pete1313

@lucusmarcus, that looks to be a John Deere 22 greensmower. It was produced from 1987-1994. I personally would pass on that one due to the age alone.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic....ilit=The+220A+was+made+from+1997+2002#p139270


----------



## Longtee81

I recently purchased a JD 220E (2014) Greensmower at the December Weeks auction and it arrived today at business that services mostly Toro mowers.

I paid $500 / $630 OTD w/fees, etc. for the 220E, but was quoted $700 more for home delivery in Lansing, MI which was much higher than anticipated. I called Jim at Michigan Turf Equipment (about 1 hour from my home) with the hopes that I could get it shipped from the freight company to them for a lower cost vs. the residential delivery quote I had received and I was also hoping to have them check it out and service it if needed so it would be good to go in the Spring. As it turns out they had purchased some equipment from the same auction, and had said they would allow me to ship it back with their purchased items on their large freight truck without charging me.

I have to say, anyone considering a Toro GM, should definitely check out Michigan Turf (They are listed on the Online Sources for Used Green Mowers page of this forum).
Jim has been great to deal and super honest and helpful. He said it fired right up and everything appeared to worked (reel and GTC)!

Although not familiar with that specific JD model he said that I purchased a mower which was not ideal for my intentions of mowing KBG at 1-1.25 inches. I believe others have used this with a similar setup without issue at these heights but I'm wondering if I made a mistake on this?

Questions: 
1) Should I be able to cut at 1-1.5" with this despite the 11-blade and GTC?
2) Would it make sense for me to attempt to change the reel to a 7-blade, add a Fairway HC, and modify the GTC to a FTC on my own before taking it to JD dealer to do full service and relief grind?

I am not that mechanical in nature, so I'm looking at feedback from the group on whether these are more advanced tasks, or fairly straight forward.

Any tips or recommendations would be much appreciated!

Thanks! 
Steve


----------



## Bmossin

Longtee81 said:


> I recently purchased a JD 220E (2014) Greensmower at the December Weeks auction and it arrived today at business that services mostly Toro mowers.
> 
> I paid $500 / $630 OTD w/fees, etc. for the 220E, but was quoted $700 more for home delivery in Lansing, MI which was much higher than anticipated. I called Jim at Michigan Turf Equipment (about 1 hour from my home) with the hopes that I could get it shipped from the freight company to them for a lower cost vs. the residential delivery quote I had received and I was also hoping to have them check it out and service it if needed so it would be good to go in the Spring. As it turns out they had purchased some equipment from the same auction, and had said they would allow me to ship it back with their purchased items on their large freight truck without charging me.
> 
> I have to say, anyone considering a Toro GM, should definitely check out Michigan Turf (They are listed on the Online Sources for Used Green Mowers page of this forum).
> Jim has been great to deal and super honest and helpful. He said it fired right up and everything appeared to worked (reel and GTC)!
> 
> Although not familiar with that specific JD model he said that I purchased a mower which was not ideal for my intentions of mowing KBG at 1-1.25 inches. I believe others have used this with a similar setup without issue at these heights but I'm wondering if I made a mistake on this?
> 
> Questions:
> 1) Should I be able to cut at 1-1.5" with this despite the 11-blade and GTC?
> 2) Would it make sense for me to attempt to change the reel to a 7-blade, add a Fairway HC, and modify the GTC to a FTC on my own before taking it to JD dealer to do full service and relief grind?
> 
> I am not that mechanical in nature, so I'm looking at feedback from the group on whether these are more advanced tasks, or fairly straight forward.
> 
> Any tips or recommendations would be much appreciated!
> 
> Thanks!
> Steve


Exciting stuff. I have a 180C and a 220B...I am pretty sure the max height of cut on these is 7/8 of an inch...so you might need to join the reel low club!

This is a good thread regarding some of the teardown and rebuild stuff...and also take the time to read through the 50+ pages of this thread...it can be very informative. It will however take quite a while.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7326&start=20

Good luck and have fun.


----------



## Bmossin

Longtee81 said:


> I recently purchased a JD 220E (2014) Greensmower at the December Weeks auction and it arrived today at business that services mostly Toro mowers.....
> 
> Thanks!
> Steve


found it

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=1584

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=1500&start=20


----------



## g-man

@Longtee81 the 220E can go to 1.42in with the GTC. A 11 or 14 blade reel might make it more of a challenge with stragglers. I mowed to 1.25in with mine.

I would say it is easy to swap, but does requiere mechanical skills. If you swap it, a new one is around $350 plus you want to do the bearings too. A new one is already sharp, so no need to grind it.


----------



## claydus

@Pete1313 and @g-man today I was to reassemble the gears and the GTC with the correct bushing! The manufacturer is Oillite and they have bushings in Amazon.

I ended up using a 15mm bore x 19mm OD x 25 mm length. My engagement contacts the gears are slightly wore down so the length works ok here.

Looking back I should have just removed the GTC altogether. I have spent over $200 in parts trying to this thing working. My mower has been out of commission for the past 3 months while I have been working on this.


----------



## Pete1313

Longtee81 said:


> Although not familiar with that specific JD model he said that I purchased a mower which was not ideal for my intentions of mowing KBG at 1-1.25 inches. I believe others have used this with a similar setup without issue at these heights but I'm wondering if I made a mistake on this?
> 
> Questions:
> 1) Should I be able to cut at 1-1.5" with this despite the 11-blade and GTC?
> 2) Would it make sense for me to attempt to change the reel to a 7-blade, add a Fairway HC, and modify the GTC to a FTC on my own before taking it to JD dealer to do full service and relief grind?
> 
> I am not that mechanical in nature, so I'm looking at feedback from the group on whether these are more advanced tasks, or fairly straight forward.
> 
> Any tips or recommendations would be much appreciated!
> 
> Thanks!
> Steve


I would strongly disagree in regards to what he said about the 220E not being the ideal mower for KBG and your HOC. I can not think of a better reel mower for your intentions. I believe it is even more ideal then the fixed head 220A/B/C/SL's that are frequently used on KBG baseball infields all over. The adjustability that you have with clip rate, adjusting the bedknife angle, and also the max HOC all make it superior. It may not have the correct setup currently, but a few adjustments will get it there. A 7-blade reel is something you should strongly consider but not mandatory right now. I would also convert the GTC to a FTC setup. If that is not on the table this off season, you could just remove the GTC setup and would only need to buy the appropriate counterweight for a non GTC setup. You can also turn the GTC off if you dont need to use it. Maybe replace the bedknife, but otherwise get it adjusted properly and you will have an awesome mower for KBG. Congrats on the mower! You will be blown away when you start using it! Any questions, dont hesitate. Lots of knowledge on these mowers here. :thumbsup:


----------



## Longtee81

Bmossin said:


> Exciting stuff. I have a 180C and a 220B...I am pretty sure the max height of cut on these is 7/8 of an inch...so you might need to join the reel low club!
> 
> This is a good thread regarding some of the teardown and rebuild stuff...and also take the time to read through the 50+ pages of this thread...it can be very informative. It will however take quite a while.
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7326&start=20
> 
> Good luck and have fun.


Thanks for all of the links you shared. I will be sure to carefully review and study each of them. I have read all 50+ pages in this JD forum over the last 3 weeks until my eyes glazed over in preparation for deciding if i was going to bid on one at this past auction. I was undecided and strongly considering a Swardman for a while but after reading all of their pages I decided the JD was a better fit for me. A strong consideration for me was also the community support on this site and the option for service at a local JD Golf dealer if I get in over my head 

I will consider joining the reel low club, but the yards needs a bit of leveling, etc.. before I'm ready.


----------



## Longtee81

I may just stick with the 11-blade at first when I start next years so I can learn my yard, and also avoid damaging a brand new reel if there are any problem areas I'm unaware of.



g-man said:


> @Longtee81 the 220E can go to 1.42in with the GTC. A 11 or 14 blade reel might make it more of a challenge with stragglers. I mowed to 1.25in with mine.
> 
> I would say it is easy to swap, but does requiere mechanical skills. If you swap it, a new one is around $350 plus you want to do the bearings too. A new one is already sharp, so no need to grind it.


@g-man That's I what I had thought too based on my review of the HOC tables. I found a very good post by Ware, and in it he explained the HOC on the 220e and it's ability to mow much higher than the GM1000 and others with same #of blades on the reel due to the ability to adjust FOC. viewtopic.php?t=1230

I may just stick with the 11-blade at first when I start mowing next Spring so I can learn my yard, and also avoid damaging a brand new reel if there are any problem areas I'm unaware of. I still have a lot to learn, but it's a good time of year to do so!


----------



## Longtee81

Pete1313 said:


> I would strongly disagree in regards to what he said about the 220E not being the ideal mower for KBG and your HOC. I can not think of a better reel mower for your intentions. I believe it is even more ideal then the fixed head 220A/B/C/SL's that are frequently used on KBG baseball infields all over. The adjustability that you have with clip rate, adjusting the bedknife angle, and also the max HOC all make it superior. It may not have the correct setup currently, but a few adjustments will get it there. A 7-blade reel is something you should strongly consider but not mandatory right now. I would also convert the GTC to a FTC setup. If that is not on the table this off season, you could just remove the GTC setup and would only need to buy the appropriate counterweight for a non GTC setup. You can also turn the GTC off if you dont need to use it. Maybe replace the bedknife, but otherwise get it adjusted properly and you will have an awesome mower for KBG. Congrats on the mower! You will be blown away when you start using it! Any questions, dont hesitate. Lots of knowledge on these mowers here. :thumbsup:


Thanks for confirming my thoughts on the feedback I received on the 220E for home yard use! I will definitely look to replace the bedknife as my first move since this seems pretty straight forward. I think #2 on my list in preparation to use next season will be to convert the GTC to FTC. I saw one of your prior posts where you identified all of the parts and quantity to purchase for conversion and will try to follow along with that.

Your knowledge and contributions to helping others on this forum were what sold me on going the JD route instead of Toro! (Well that and I really like the color Green!)

I'm looking forward to learning from and hopefully contributing to this group of JD users!


----------



## claydus

Longtee81 said:


> Pete1313 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would strongly disagree in regards to what he said about the 220E not being the ideal mower for KBG and your HOC. I can not think of a better reel mower for your intentions. I believe it is even more ideal then the fixed head 220A/B/C/SL's that are frequently used on KBG baseball infields all over. The adjustability that you have with clip rate, adjusting the bedknife angle, and also the max HOC all make it superior. It may not have the correct setup currently, but a few adjustments will get it there. A 7-blade reel is something you should strongly consider but not mandatory right now. I would also convert the GTC to a FTC setup. If that is not on the table this off season, you could just remove the GTC setup and would only need to buy the appropriate counterweight for a non GTC setup. You can also turn the GTC off if you dont need to use it. Maybe replace the bedknife, but otherwise get it adjusted properly and you will have an awesome mower for KBG. Congrats on the mower! You will be blown away when you start using it! Any questions, dont hesitate. Lots of knowledge on these mowers here. :thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for confirming my thoughts on the feedback I received on the 220E for home yard use! I will definitely look to replace the bedknife as my first move since this seems pretty straight forward. I think #2 on my list in preparation to use next season will be to convert the GTC to FTC. I saw one of your prior posts where you identified all of the parts and quantity to purchase for conversion and will try to follow along with that.
> 
> Your knowledge and contributions to helping others on this forum were what sold me on going the JD route instead of Toro! (Well that and I really like the color Green!)
> 
> I'm looking forward to learning from and hopefully contributing to this group of JD users!
Click to expand...

I would check you model number on the bedknife to see which one you may have. I know there are options for a "fairway" bedknife that raises the minimum HOC.


----------



## StormTrooper86

Having issues starting my 220SL. Carb and spark plug are less than a year old. After a long effort last night it started twice for me but this morning it will not start. Gas is also fresh but before last night i haven't used it in months. This summer it always started on the first pull. Help please!


----------



## Longtee81

I'm going to be driving to pick up the unit in a couple of days. Is it possible to fit the 220e inside a small SUV or will I need a truck/trailer?

I am concerned about the vertical height and not sure if the handlebars can be disassembled for transport.

UPDATE:
I used a trailer to move as it was the easiest method.


----------



## jhealy748

@StormTrooper86 It is probably just a little gummed up from the fuel sitting for a couple months. I would put some Sta-Bil in the tank and try to get it started again and if you can get it running let it run for a little while to get the fuel conditioner circulated through the carb. If this doesn't work then it may be a matter of cleaning the carb and checking the jets for a clog. Also, I would check to see if where you are getting your fuel from has ethanol in the gas. A lot of times if you don't but the premium it will have ethanol in it and it is really bad for gumming up carburetors if they sit for any sort of time like yours has. Best of luck and hope the shoulders don't hurt too bad tomorrow from all that pulling! lol


----------



## LawnDaddy

Got the mower home from the auction on Friday and just now had time to take a look at it. I was checking over everything and the pull cord would not retract all the way so I fixed that. After a couple no starts I noticed something odd. Notice in the pics the wire that looks cut. Am I missing something or what? Please help! Bought this mower cheap to have a winter project to tinker with. I just hope this isn't a major problem


----------



## Longtee81

@LawnDaddy This is what my 220-E looks like.


----------



## StormTrooper86

Recently bought a JD 260C that has the groomer attachment. Just curious of the pro and cons? Are there cutting height restrictions? Currently set at .5". Any maintenance issues. Noob when it comes to having a greens mower with a groomer.


----------



## TulsaFan

Anyone ever seen a John Deere parade? :lol:


----------



## The Anti-Rebel

TulsaFan said:


> Anyone ever seen a John Deere parade? :lol:


Have been a part of a couple. This is from the 2018 Players Championship.


----------



## Don_Bass

Hey guys where are you guys buying parts for your JD at? Wanting to replace belts, & trans service any help would be highly appreciated thanks!


----------



## claydus

Don_Bass said:


> Hey guys where are you guys buying parts for your JD at? Wanting to replace belts, & trans service any help would be highly appreciated thanks!


https://greenfarmparts.com/


----------



## Longtee81

I used the JD Golf & Turf Cutting Unit Grease in the GTC, do I need to remove this grease and use the SD Polyurea Grease instead?

Also, how do you know when you have enough (but not too much) grease in the GTC gearbox?

Thanks!


----------



## g-man

The gtc actually uses the golf grease (thin and runny) since it is connected to the reel bearing. They are compatible, so you can mix them. One is thicker for items that barely move vs the reel with higher rpm.

When to know, when it starts to blow out the seals, stop and clean it.


----------



## Longtee81

g-man said:


> The gtc actually uses the golf grease (thin and runny) since it is connected to the reel bearing. They are compatible, so you can mix them. One is thicker for items that barely move vs the reel with higher rpm.
> 
> When to know, when it starts to blow out the seals, stop and clean it.


Thanks, for the info! It looks like I used the correct one after all! I had opened it up after about 30 pumps with the grease gun as the seals had still not blown. It must have been almost emply to begin with.


----------



## Longtee81

I purchased a used "Like New" 7 Blade R&R RTCA19350 on ebay to install on my 220 E.

The reel will not slide into the bearings and it seems they are too tight. I even tried to line up the bearings as shown in the picture outside of the QA5 and I still am not having any luck (even with light grease). When doing the same with the 11 blade reel blade John Deere that is being replaced, they slide right on with ease.

The seller had indicated they purchased it for a JD 7500 precision cut fairway unit and installed but realized it was not the correct reel for their unit.

Any suggestions or thoughts as to why they dont seem to fit? (I'm wondering if the previous owner had damaged the reel shaft) - see pics

Thanks!


----------



## Ware

Longtee81 said:


> ...Any suggestions or thoughts as to why they dont seem to fit?


----------



## Ware

There are some other ways to heat the bearing if you're not comfortable putting it in the microwave. 

And note the reverse is true if you need to drop a bearing into a housing - put it in the freezer for a few hours. :thumbup:


----------



## Longtee81

Great video @Ware! I'm not sure how I will explain this to the wife when it doesn't go as planned 

I will check out some other methods for heating the bearing or work on gaining the courage before I attempt the microwave method.

How difficult is it to remove it after it cools down the road?

It's crazy how easy they slide on and off the JD reel but seem to not fit the R&R one. I would have expected them to be a similar fit.


----------



## Pete1313

Longtee81 said:


> Great video @Ware! I'm not sure how I will explain this to the wife when it doesn't go as planned
> 
> I will check out some other methods for heating the bearing or work on gaining the courage before I attempt the microwave method.
> 
> How difficult is it to remove it after it cools down the road?
> 
> It's crazy how easy they slide on and off the JD reel but seem to not fit the R&R one. I would have expected them to be a similar fit.


For what it's worth, I replaced all 3 of my reels a few years back (QA5 7-blades) and did not have to heat any of the bearings. The new reels were JD parts however. Another interesting bit is the blade design on that R&R part is different than the OE JD QA5 7-blade reel. That blade design looks more like what you would see on a JD 11-blade, although it is obviously a 7. Here is a pic of the OE JD 7-blade design.


----------



## g-man

@Longtee81 I don't think that's the right reel. The relief cut is backwards to the reel I have and in Pete picture. Like it is supposed to spin in a different direction. Maybe r&r sent you the wrong one.


----------



## Longtee81

> For what it's worth, I replaced all 3 of my reels a few years back (QA5 7-blades) and did not have to heat any of the bearings. The new reels were JD parts however. Another interesting bit is the blade design on that R&R part is different than the OE JD QA5 7-blade reel. That blade design looks more like what you would see on a JD 11-blade, although it is obviously a 7. Here is a pic of the OE JD 7-blade design.


Yeah this does appear to be a different blade shape from the OEM 7 blades you installed. I ordered the bearings through Green Farm Parts and not R&R. Could the JD bearings be sized slightly different those sold through R&R, and that's why the JD bearing will not fit correctly?

I played around with warming the bearing just to try it out and I almost couldn't get it off aftertvi got it part way on.


----------



## Longtee81

g-man said:


> @Longtee81 I don't think that's the right reel. The relief cut is backwards to the reel I have and in Pete picture. Like it is supposed to spin in a different direction. Maybe r&r sent you the wrong one.


That could be! I purchased used on Ebay, the seller stated it was "like new" installed once and removed. The box it came in matched the part number for the 220e.

If I rotate the reel then it seems to change the orientation of the relief cut to match Pete's picture. Am I missing something or misunderstanding this?

Thanks!


----------



## erdons

After 2 years of being patient finally got a John Deere 220B in So Cal, $500 ran and cut great when I went to look at it earlier, now just waiting for my brother in law to come help me get it off the truck.


----------



## MasterMech

Longtee81 said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Longtee81 I don't think that's the right reel. The relief cut is backwards to the reel I have and in Pete picture. Like it is supposed to spin in a different direction. Maybe r&r sent you the wrong one.
> 
> 
> 
> That could be! I purchased used on Ebay, the seller stated it was "like new" installed once and removed. The box it came in matched the part number for the 220e.
> 
> If I rotate the reel then it seems to change the orientation of the relief cut to match Pete's picture. Am I missing something or misunderstanding this?
> 
> Thanks!
Click to expand...

Some tri-plex and fairway mowers utilize "left-hand" and "right-hand" reels. The twist of the blades will be in opposite directions and the drive end of the axle will be swapped vs. the driven end. Not sure if this is the case for Deere, but it could be something to watch out for.

Your photo shows the reel has the correct twist and the relief is on the backside of the blade, as it should be. If you are having trouble with getting the bearings on the shaft, I'd probably try some sandpaper on the shaft ends where it's likely to have minor distortion from handling damage or unsavory installation methods. (Flap wheel chucked up in a cordless drill works well too) If you need to remove more material, a single cut mill file is a good way to go. Test fit your bearing, look for shiny spots where it interferes, and repeat until it slides as it should.


----------



## Longtee81

MasterMech said:


> Longtee81 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Longtee81 I don't think that's the right reel. The relief cut is backwards to the reel I have and in Pete picture. Like it is supposed to spin in a different direction. Maybe r&r sent you the wrong one.
> 
> 
> 
> That could be! I purchased used on Ebay, the seller stated it was "like new" installed once and removed. The box it came in matched the part number for the 220e.
> 
> If I rotate the reel then it seems to change the orientation of the relief cut to match Pete's picture. Am I missing something or misunderstanding this?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Some tri-plex and fairway mowers utilize "left-hand" and "right-hand" reels. The twist of the blades will be in opposite directions and the drive end of the axle will be swapped vs. the driven end. Not sure if this is the case for Deere, but it could be something to watch out for.
> 
> Your photo shows the reel has the correct twist and the relief is on the backside of the blade, as it should be. If you are having trouble with getting the bearings on the shaft, I'd probably try some sandpaper on the shaft ends where it's likely to have minor distortion from handling damage or unsavory installation methods. (Flap wheel chucked up in a cordless drill works well too) If you need to remove more material, a single cut mill file is a good way to go. Test fit your bearing, look for shiny spots where it interferes, and repeat until it slides as it should.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip! I lightly sanded both shaft ends with sandpaper and that allowed the bearings to slide on with relative ease.


----------



## g-man

News:

For the last week most of the parts from www.greenfarmparts.com were showing not available. They sold the business. I also no longer have a place to sharpen my reel. :-(

Greenville Turf and Golf bought the Reynolds Golf business. Hopefully they will setup an easy to order system like greenfarmparts.

Here is the press release.


----------



## Gibby

@g-man interesting. I got this email from them yesterday.


----------



## Pete1313

g-man said:


> News:
> 
> For the last week most of the parts from www.greenfarmparts.com were showing not available. They sold the business. I also no longer have a place to sharpen my reel. :-(
> 
> Greenville Turf and Golf bought the Reynolds Golf business. Hopefully they will setup an easy to order system like greenfarmparts.
> 
> Here is the press release.


To clarify, greenfarmparts (aka Reynolds) just sold their golf & sports contract. You will still be able to get Lawn & Garden, AG, and Landscaping and Grounds Care parts thru them.

I found this out the hard way a couple weeks ago when I placed an order with them. They fulfilled the part of my order that didn't have specific golf parts for my X590. The specific golf parts for my 2500B were cancelled and a refund issued. I then tried greenpartstore, shopgreendealer, green-parts-direct(all owned by the same company) and although the parts showed up as good numbers on their website, I was greeted with a call the next day that my order was cancelled.

What do you do now that OE JD golf & sports parts are apparently no longer available online? Go to the JD website and click on Dealer Locator. Select the industry "Golf & Sports". Find your closest dealer, call them and set up an account(mine is JW Turf). Use the JD Parts Website to look up all the part numbers you need, and then call your local dealer so they can get you whatever you need.

After no luck getting my OE JD turf parts online from the 2 places I gave JW Turf a call. The experience was good. I set up an account with my name, address, and credit card info. They confirmed that I was within their service territory. Told them the parts I needed, and then asked how long it took to get them and what the process was to get the parts. They said if they(JW) had them in stock, I will see them the next day. If the JD warehouse had them in stock, I would see them the next day as well. They confirmed that they were in the JD warehouse. Called them Wednesday and saw my parts on Thursday. Direct shipped from the warehouse. Best of all, the cost was only a couple dollars more then what the online places were showing them for(even including tax and shipping).

Makes sense how quick they get the parts out knowing who their typical customers are. When a part breaks on the golf course, they need to get the machine repaired quick.

Just like I was told by my local Lawn & Garden/AG/Landscaping and Grounds Care dealer a few miles down the road from me, if a part crosses over and is used on their side, they can get it and so will greenfarmparts be able to. Parts like filters and belts, maintenance items will sometimes cross over to other machines. If you are looking for OE JD bedknives or other reel components, it appears your only option right now is to get them from your closest dealer. Otherwise you can still go aftermarket with places such as rrproducts.


----------



## Ware

Good to know @Pete1313. Thanks for the write up.


----------



## Pete1313

Ware said:


> Good to know @Pete1313. Thanks for the write up.


 :thumbsup:


----------



## SNOWBOB11

@Pete1313 Would you happen to know if greenfarmparts still has available the turf gard engine oil and hy gard trans oil as well as the 2 greases for the 220E? I was going to place a order with them in a few weeks for those items as well as a new spark plug but if there not available anymore I'll have to look elsewhere. I'm not sure if those items are also used on non golf equipment so they might still have available. I can always check with them but figured I'd see if you had checked with them on those maintenance items.


----------



## Pete1313

@SNOWBOB11, all those items should be good to order thru greenfarmparts still.

You can check on the greenfarmparts website. Put the part number in the search and it will tell you its availability.





Where the site gets complicated is if you lookup a part thru the parts diagram and then directly add it to the cart. It will add it to the cart and look like it is available even though it is not.

Reel looks to be available


But it actually is not.


----------



## SNOWBOB11

Awesome. That's what I needed to know. Thanks @Pete1313.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

I just came across John Deere 220B 2004 model in "good" condition whatever than means.

Price is 500 dollars.

Any advice on if this is a good price?


----------



## Bmossin

ENC_Lawn said:


> I just came across John Deere 220B 2004 model in "good" condition whatever than means.
> 
> Price is 500 dollars.
> 
> Any advice on if this is a good price?


Depends on all the good stuff that goes along with buying one. Include wheels or not? Grass catcher? Reel life left? Number of blades on the reel depending on your cutting height...engine hours/condition...groomer or brush...etc.

Some pictures would help.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

Bmossin said:


> ENC_Lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just came across John Deere 220B 2004 model in "good" condition whatever than means.
> 
> Price is 500 dollars.
> 
> Any advice on if this is a good price?
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on all the good stuff that goes along with buying one. Include wheels or not? Grass catcher? Reel life left? Number of blades on the reel depending on your cutting height...engine hours/condition...groomer or brush...etc.
> 
> Some pictures would help.
Click to expand...

Gotcha...I found them on Turfnet.

Unfortunately until I speak with someone from the golf course that listed them...all they have is 2 pictures.

Here is the link...but not much info...

Thanks

https://www.turfnet.com/classifieds/category/12-walk-greensmower/


----------



## Bmossin

ENC_Lawn said:


> Bmossin said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ENC_Lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just came across John Deere 220B 2004 model in "good" condition whatever than means.
> 
> Price is 500 dollars.
> 
> Any advice on if this is a good price?
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on all the good stuff that goes along with buying one. Include wheels or not? Grass catcher? Reel life left? Number of blades on the reel depending on your cutting height...engine hours/condition...groomer or brush...etc.
> 
> Some pictures would help.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Gotcha...I found them on Turfnet.
> 
> Unfortunately until I speak with someone from the golf course that listed them...all they have is 2 pictures.
> 
> Here is the link...but not much info...
> 
> Thanks
> 
> https://www.turfnet.com/classifieds/category/12-walk-greensmower/
Click to expand...

Looks like they all have groomers. One engine is missing a recoil. Depending on how handy you are I would pay that...but that's me. I bought some from a course on turf net and when I talked to them was able to get a better deal because they were about to be scrapped. I feel like you could have better luck with these than one from weeks auction.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

Bmossin said:


> ENC_Lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bmossin said:
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on all the good stuff that goes along with buying one. Include wheels or not? Grass catcher? Reel life left? Number of blades on the reel depending on your cutting height...engine hours/condition...groomer or brush...etc.
> 
> Some pictures would help.
> 
> 
> 
> Gotcha...I found them on Turfnet.
> 
> Unfortunately until I speak with someone from the golf course that listed them...all they have is 2 pictures.
> 
> Here is the link...but not much info...
> 
> Thanks
> 
> https://www.turfnet.com/classifieds/category/12-walk-greensmower/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looks like they all have groomers. One engine is missing a recoil. Depending on how handy you are I would pay that...but that's me. I bought some from a course on turf net and when I talked to them was able to get a better deal because they were about to be scrapped. I feel like you could have better luck with these than one from weeks auction.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the help and information!!!


----------



## Arnezkanizzle

@ENC_Lawn did you find out anything about those 220b's in sanford? I was thinking about picking one of those up myself.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

@Arnezkanizzle I never did call.

I kept going back and forth on if I need one...since I already have the California Trimmer and the only advantage I feel I would use is the ability to strip the lawn better.

I don't have any intentions of a lower HOC than whay I did last year which was around .5 to 1 inch HOC.

Plus...I don't have a clue how to fix any of the mechanical stuff....so I talked myself out of it for now...lol. 

@SGrabs33 may have some info...to share on the greens mowers.


----------



## Ren

If anybody needs an owners manual for an older 220 greensmower OMMT1257 L4 with the Kawasaki engine... I got what you need, just let me know.


----------



## Arnezkanizzle

@ENC_Lawn I understand. At least you have the caltrimmer. I'm looking for my first reel mower. I'm going to give the JD 220b a try if I can get a hold of someone.


----------



## SGrabs33

Arnezkanizzle said:


> @ENC_Lawn I understand. At least you have the caltrimmer. I'm looking for my first reel mower. I'm going to give the JD 220b a try if I can get a hold of someone.


Nice. Get one with a good amount of reel life left. Also less blades would be nice but they are all likely 11. Get the wheels and grass catcher if they have them. And or course post some pics if you pick one up.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

Arnezkanizzle said:


> @ENC_Lawn I understand. At least you have the caltrimmer. I'm looking for my first reel mower. I'm going to give the JD 220b a try if I can get a hold of someone.


Awesome!!!

Post some pics of your Zenith Zoysia this summer when lawn season gets in full swing.

Looking forward to seeing that cultivar of Zoysia cut reel low!


----------



## 985arrowhead

So I have Had my John Deere 180 C for a full season now. I have performed routine maintenance on it annually, and just recently changed my transfer case fluid again.



What does everyone else's look like?

Using JD Hygard


----------



## g-man

Hmm, is that silver a metal powder?


----------



## 985arrowhead

g-man said:


> Hmm, is that silver a metal powder?


No, almost like there is moisture in the fluid more than metal shavings.

It looked like that last time I changed it when I first got the mower mid spring last year.

I was hoping it just hadn't been serviced in a really really long time but..... here it is again looking the same.

Mower runs great, goes into "gear" smoothly, no noises of any kind but certainly looks like wear to me.


----------



## Pete1313

985arrowhead said:


> So I have Had my John Deere 180 C for a full season now. I have performed routine maintenance on it annually, and just recently changed my transfer case fluid again.
> 
> 
> 
> What does everyone else's look like?
> 
> Using JD Hygard


When I changed the fluid on a 220SL that's what it looked like as well.


----------



## jhealy748

I've seen the same in a dirt bike that got stuck in a creek and got water in the oil. We had to change the oil 4 or 5 times before it all cleared up but it did finally. I would look at running a heavier weight oil through it and running it for a few minutes and then changing it again and see if that helps clear it up. Like I said it may take a few times to get it cleared up.


----------



## 985arrowhead

jhealy748 said:


> I've seen the same in a dirt bike that got stuck in a creek and got water in the oil. We had to change the oil 4 or 5 times before it all cleared up but it did finally. I would look at running a heavier weight oil through it and running it for a few minutes and then changing it again and see if that helps clear it up. Like I said it may take a few times to get it cleared up.


TY


----------



## Longtee81

I'm slowly piecing my the cutting unit on my JD 220E after replacing the bedknife, reel (11 blade to 7 blade), bearings and seals. I pretty much took everything apart painted and cleaned it. In putting things back together, I've run into a problem where I can't get the aluminum piece (picture) to fit without a gap on the motor side.

If I push it tight on this side and eliminate the gap, I end up with a gap on the GTC side.
I'm not sure what could be causing this problem. Any troubleshooting tips would be much appreciated.



Here's a quick video that shows more detail (sorry I was moving the camera pretty fast) 




Thanks!


----------



## Pete1313

@Longtee81, shaft of the gear assy is not fully/properly inserted into the collet nut. Loosen the nut and rotate the whole assy until it slides in further. Then tighten the collet nut. Use this picture for reference. See how close the collet nut is to the gear case compared to yours. There is I pin inside the knife shaft assy that the gear case shaft needs to fit into. Hope this makes sense.


----------



## Longtee81

Pete1313 said:


> @Longtee81, shaft of the gear assy is not fully/properly inserted into the collet nut. Loosen the nut and rotate the whole assy until it slides in further. Then tighten the collet nut. Use this picture for reference. See how close the collet nut is to the gear case compared to yours. There is I pin inside the knife shaft assy that the gear case shaft needs to fit into. Hope this makes sense.


Thanks Pete!
I think I understand and will give that a shot.

The picture is very helpful.


----------



## g-man

@Longtee81 I think on the GTC side of the GTC shaft(0:02 sec from the video), it is not all the way in. The nut sits closer to the GTC on my mower. The shaft from the GTC has a slot for a pin in the GTC shaft with the blades. If I recall correctly, I left that big nut loose to get the other side (the one by the motor) aligned and square first.

Pete beat me to posting.


----------



## Longtee81

g-man said:


> @Longtee81 I think on the GTC side of the GTC shaft(0:02 sec from the video), it is not all the way in. The nut sits closer to the GTC on my mower. The shaft from the GTC has a slot for a pin in the GTC shaft with the blades. If I recall correctly, I left that big nut loose to get the other side (the one by the motor) aligned and square first.
> 
> Pete beat me to posting.


You both make it sound so easy . I'm having a hard time getting it to move within the GTC as everything seems really tight. I loosened the collet nut all the way and still cant seem to rotate the GTC gear shaft and I'm not able to separate the GTC shaft from the gear shaft - the collet nut just keeps spinning after having loosened up initially. I'm going to take a break and try again tomorrow.

Thanks!


----------



## Pete1313

@Longtee81, here are some pics showing the drive shaft slot(part #31) 


and the pin in the knife shaft assy(part #8)


There could be rust inside the collet bushing (part #3) or the tube (part #5) that is preventing them from spinning and lining up.

Try this, make sure the gear assy is in the on/run position. Then hold the reel so it won't spin. This will prevent the gear drive shaft from spinning. Then rotate the knife shaft assy by putting a wrench on part #2. When it starts to turn, feel for the pin aligning with the slot by pushing inward. If that doesn't work, you will need to completely separate and see what is going on inside that collet nut assy.


----------



## Longtee81

Pete1313 said:


> Try this, make sure the gear assy is in the on/run position. Then hold the reel so it won't spin. This will prevent the gear drive shaft from spinning. Then rotate the knife shaft assy by putting a wrench on part #2. When it starts to turn, feel for the pin aligning with the slot by pushing inward. If that doesn't work, you will need to completely separate and see what is going on inside that collet nut assy.


I left out an important detail.
I was able to disassemble everything during my attempted conversion from the GTC to the FTC. so at one point in time I could see how everything fit together and had no issues with rust. I had removed the GTC blades and added the FTC blades along with a new collet nut (part 4) and collet bushing (Part 3)so I don't believe there are any rust issues causing this problem. When I tightened everything on during reassemble, it was much harder to thread it than the original parts so I may have been doing something wrong.






I tried rotating, the knife shaft assembly, with no luck. I'm now attempting removal of the nut and have been able to back it off until just about the end, but it just seems to be spinning and not coming off. Should I try to pry this off, or is there a better approach. I feel like I've tried everything, but it's really on there good.


----------



## g-man

I think your collet bushing is jammed in the shaft. You might need to pull on the GTC shaft to separate it or use a screwdriver in the face of the but to push the shaft away from the GTC gear.


----------



## g-man

@Longtee81 what's the status?


----------



## Longtee81

g-man said:


> @Longtee81 what's the status?


@g-man I've been trying hard the last few days to get it off, but it's still stuck on there. It just spins (spinning more freely now), but I don't know how to get the GTC shaft out, or the nut completely off the thread on the blade shaft.

I've feel like I've tried every possible thing but not sure where to pry or hammer without damaging it. It seems to be stuck in there really good!

I'll take any pointers as I clearly don't know what I'm doing 

Thanks!


----------



## g-man

I can get my machine out of the back of the garage for better pictures right now. I took an image with poor lighting.

You should be safe to use a screwdriver on this face of the nut and push the shaft away. The nut should be slightly threaded in.


----------



## Longtee81

g-man said:


> I can get my machine out of the back of the garage for better pictures right now. I took an image with poor lighting.
> 
> You should be safe to use a screwdriver on this face of the nut and push the shaft away. The nut should be slightly threaded in.


Thanks for taking the pics and the suggestion. I threaded the night slightly and attempted to push the shaft away but it's not moving at all.

I used a lot of force out of frustration with a good size screwdriver (more than I should have - see pic) so had a lot of leverage and still nothing.


----------



## Longtee81

I think I have an idea what the problem could be, but I'm not sure what to do.

I attempted to convert the GTC blades that came with my mower to FTC blades using a part I purchased on eBay (part BM22693). I got a good deal on the shaft kit for a fairway mower, and had intended swap out the blades and spacers since it had both and use the original shaft that came with my 220E. Since the 220E GTC uses the same parts for blades and spacers they fit without issue, However, I used the bushing that came with the eBay part as it looked new and didn't have any rust.

Is it possible the bushing could be the problem? It looked similar, but I'm now wondering if it was a different size and is now stuck. - Thanks!


----------



## g-man

If you got it assembled, then there has to be a way to get it out. Don't get frustrated since it could make things worst.

Do you have or can go to an autopart and rent a bearing separator? Or maybe two. With two you can use screws to drive it apart. This will provide a better force than trying to pry it. It might also be better to take the gtc and shaft off the reel to get better access.


----------



## Longtee81

g-man said:


> If you got it assembled, then there has to be a way to get it out. Don't get frustrated since it could make things worst.
> 
> Do you have or can go to an autopart and rent a bearing separator? Or maybe two. With two you can use screws to drive it apart. This will provide a better force than trying to pry it. It might also be better to take the gtc and shaft off the reel to get better access.


Got it off! I was patient and after some penetrating oil and prying between a wrench and the tube nut I was able to get it off 
Now to try and get this installed the correct way!

Thanks for the help @g-man and @Pete1313!


----------



## g-man

Awesome. I think you should buy a new collar.


----------



## bkmanning

Is there a control valve on the JD 2500B that will allow me to sync the raising & lowering of the lift arms. The front reels practically drop to the ground whereas the rear reel takes 5 seconds or more to lower. And the same when raising the units. I see there are the two solenoids on the valve body that has an adjustment screw but nothing happens when I tighten or loosen the nut.


----------



## The Anti-Rebel

bkmanning said:


> Is there a control valve on the JD 2500B that will allow me to sync the raising & lowering of the lift arms. The front reels practically drop to the ground whereas the rear reel takes 5 seconds or more to lower. And the same when raising the units. I see there are the two solenoids on the valve body that has an adjustment screw but nothing happens when I tighten or loosen the nut.


Its supposed to do that. when you're mowing a green and dropping the the units as you drive onto the green the back unit is on a delay so you don't scalp the collar.


----------



## bkmanning

After more investigation and looking at the JD parts website, I pulled the hoses off the front lift cylinder. The lift cylinder is missing the orifices. I will order the missing pieces and hopefully, this will correct the issue. I also pulled the hoses off the rear cylinder to confirm the orifices are installed and I can see them in the housing. I guess the previous owner failed to install the orifices when he installed the new front lift cylinder.
The delay makes sense.


----------



## Pete1313

@bkmanning, install the orifices and hopefully that is the issue. By design there is a delay between front and rear, but 5 seconds is not right. There is no adjustment to sync them up. Let us know if you get it solved. I can also share a video from mine of what the normal delay should be if needed.


----------



## Ren

anybody ever try to add a groomer to a model that doesn't have it? In my preliminary research it may be cheaper just to buy another mower...


----------



## g-man

It should be possible, but I think finding an used one might be hard. A new one could be more than $3k.


----------



## Dan_nz

Hi guys

Any one know how much the larger chain cover cost to replace? Recently picked up a 2014 220sl but has a fair few cracks and chips in it


----------



## TonyC

New covers are cheap. Hell, the foam gasket is the expensive part. You should be able to source these without issue.


----------



## Dan_nz

@TonyC nice, I'm in New Zealand and couldn't find any. Have you got a place that is good for parts in the states?


----------



## TonyC

I ordered mind from Green Parts Store, but I think I read somewhere that they either quit or sold off the parts side of the business.

This is one of the covers. 
https://www.green-parts-direct.com/john-deere-part-MT6973-Cover/PD/4283347

I replaced both on my rebuild. Both part numbers are here...
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=175613#p175613


----------



## Dan_nz

Anyone help with the front roller, the clamps dont seem to hold the roller properly and it can fall out, have tried tightening it up, looks to be missing a bolt but was unsure as only picked it up Wednesday


----------



## TonyC

No second bolt. I had a similar issue. The clamp can be reversed, which is why the second hole is there. Mine had a cheap makeshift sleeve of tin around it to take up the space. I'm guessing the put cheap rollers on these instead of original JD replacements.

Have you tried greasing the roller yet? That's an oozing mess of an exercise. It might even spit at you. Trust me, I know.


----------



## Dan_nz

Havnt greased yet, cant wait now haha, might have to make up some kind of bush as it's basically unusable, hate to think what JD charge for new front roller&#128517;


----------



## TonyC

TonyC said:


> No second bolt. I had a similar issue. The clamp can be reversed, which is why the second hole is there. Mine had a cheap makeshift sleeve of tin around it to take up the space. I'm guessing the put cheap rollers on these instead of original JD replacements.
> 
> Have you tried greasing the roller yet? That's an oozing mess of an exercise. It might even spit at you. Trust me, I know.


@Dan_nz 
This morning, with a caliper, I measured the axle on my 220SL roller to be 16 mm. In hand, the clamp appears very close to the same 16 mm. When I originally disassembled the roller clamp, I came across what you're sure to recognize as nothing more than tin strapping. I figured the roller wasn't original, and that they must be a cheap greens-keeper's shop fix to make the clamp tighter.



Here is a picture of the clamp on my 180SL, which doesn't have a groomer, you can see there are no tin sleeves. I believe the roller on it might be original equipment.


----------



## g-man

The roller looks original, but the bearings/shaft might not be.


----------



## nathan99218

Quick question. I just put on a new bed knife on the 180b and I can't cut paper in about a 2 inch section in the middle of the reel. Is it time for a new reel? I tried calling the local golf courses to see if they would grind it for me but no luck.


----------



## g-man

Did you backslap after replacing the bedknife?


----------



## nathan99218

g-man said:


> Did you backslap after replacing the bedknife?


I did.


----------



## claydus

@g-man @TonyC @Dan_nz 
I am having a similar problem with my new bed knife and reel grinded over the holidays. Wasn't able to cut paper after the grind but i read where i should backlapped. Which I did next with 120 compound and it appears to be cutting paper now instead of pulling it but it's now making a high pitched whine.

Here is what it sounds like. If I loosen the reel to bedknife contact it goes away.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/oLRxrbqFyfdqAkoW8


----------



## Dan_nz

Anyone know what socket size the reel nut is for backlapping, I could only find on parts diagram that it is M20 nut so would assume 32mm? NZ is in lockdown so have to buy online so have to get it right haha


----------



## Dan_nz

TonyC said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> No second bolt. I had a similar issue. The clamp can be reversed, which is why the second hole is there. Mine had a cheap makeshift sleeve of tin around it to take up the space. I'm guessing the put cheap rollers on these instead of original JD replacements.
> 
> Have you tried greasing the roller yet? That's an oozing mess of an exercise. It might even spit at you. Trust me, I know.
> 
> 
> 
> @Dan_nz
> This morning, with a caliper, I measured the axle on my 220SL roller to be 16 mm. In hand, the clamp appears very close to the same 16 mm. When I originally disassembled the roller clamp, I came across what you're sure to recognize as nothing more than tin strapping. I figured the roller wasn't original, and that they must be a cheap greens-keeper's shop fix to make the clamp tighter.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a picture of the clamp on my 180SL, which doesn't have a groomer, you can see there are no tin sleeves. I believe the roller on it might be original equipment.
Click to expand...

Cheers for the pics, I ended up using some tin as well it worked a treat


----------



## Dan_nz

claydus said:


> @g-man @TonyC @Dan_nz
> I am having a similar problem with my new bed knife and reel grinded over the holidays. Wasn't able to cut paper after the grind but i read where i should backlapped. Which I did next with 120 compound and it appears to be cutting paper now instead of pulling it but it's now making a high pitched whine.
> 
> Here is what it sounds like. If I loosen the reel to bedknife contact it goes away.
> 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/oLRxrbqFyfdqAkoW8


That sounds like either the reel is to tight or has a high spot. Might need a longer backlap so it gets every reel even


----------



## walk1355

I own a 260SL that has, I believe, a 11 blade reel. I am looking to replace it with a 7 blade from RR (RAMT2903). I've read through all of this thread over the last year or two, and I've seen where it's a good idea to replace the bearings at this time since you have to dissasemble it all anyway.

Is there a list anywhere that shows all the parts I need to order along side the reel and bedknife to do this job?

Does it require any specialized tools?


----------



## Pete1313

@walk1355, check out this thread.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=155706#p155706

The the reel and knife are different on the 220SL obviously but bearing part#'s will be the same for the 260SL.


----------



## walk1355

Pete1313 said:


> @walk1355, check out this thread.
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=155706#p155706
> 
> The the reel and knife are different on the 220SL obviously but bearing part#'s will be the same for the 260SL.


Thanks. That thread is worth it's weight in gold. I must have missed it when you did it.

Do you recommend the bearing driving kit?


----------



## Pete1313

@walk1355, you might need some adapters to get the bearing cup and seal out unless you get creative with the right size socket and hammer.


----------



## Bmossin

One of the 260B's I am working on, the clutch drive level will not stay engaged while driving so it slowly works its way back to neutral. Is the lower cable the best place to start trying to correct? Anyone ever have a similar issue?


----------



## TonyC

Bmossin said:


> One of the 260B's I am working on, the clutch drive level will not stay engaged while driving so it slowly works its way back to neutral. Is the lower cable the best place to start trying to correct? Anyone ever have a similar issue?


You'll need to share some more information, but I'm guessing that your operator bail is not latching the drive lever, and the lever is being returned by the tension spring down at the belt engagement.

Look under the handlebar cover, and watch for the action between item #2, #5, and #12. These parts action together to both lockout the drive lever (when the bail is not being held), and lock it in drive based on the position when the operator bail is being held.

The operator bail is supposed to move part #2 which moves the lock out out of the way, and also #5 which latches the drive lever #12 and keeps it engaged until the bail is released. It sounds like this latching of the drive lever is not happening in your situation.

On my SL mower (second image), the latching occurs in the red circle in this image.


----------



## Bmossin

@TonyC thanks...I have been studying that diagram and trying to figure where to start at. I appreciate the insight!


----------



## TonyC

Bmossin said:


> @TonyC thanks...I have been studying that diagram and trying to figure where to start at. I appreciate the insight!


The mower does not need to be running to test the action.

It's the last inch of throw on the drive lever that allows the latching. So if you're not seeing the final latching, then the set screw probably need to be adjusted. The spring in the second image is #7. That is what rotates the latch that catches on the red circled tab.


----------



## Bmossin

TonyC said:


> Bmossin said:
> 
> 
> 
> @TonyC thanks...I have been studying that diagram and trying to figure where to start at. I appreciate the insight!
> 
> 
> 
> The mower does not need to be running to test the action.
> 
> It's the last inch of throw on the drive lever that allows the latching. So if you're not seeing the final latching, then the set screw probably need to be adjusted. The spring in the second image is #7. That is what rotates the latch that catches on the red circled tab.
Click to expand...

@TonyC turns out Bolt in the diagram #8 is bent like crazy. Part Number MT1608 and $14.80+ shipping lol. Thanks again for the help.


----------



## TonyC

Bmossin said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bmossin said:
> 
> 
> 
> @TonyC thanks...I have been studying that diagram and trying to figure where to start at. I appreciate the insight!
> 
> 
> 
> The mower does not need to be running to test the action.
> 
> It's the last inch of throw on the drive lever that allows the latching. So if you're not seeing the final latching, then the set screw probably need to be adjusted. The spring in the second image is #7. That is what rotates the latch that catches on the red circled tab.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @TonyC turns out Bolt in the diagram #8 is bent like crazy. Part Number MT1608 and $14.80+ shipping lol. Thanks again for the help.
Click to expand...

That would do it!

Good job on finding the root cause. I took a look at your Lawn Journal, and pretty quickly thought, based on what I see here, he's a smart guy, he'll find it. I did notice that the bale on one of those mowers was really out of wack, hanging way too low.

Cheers!


----------



## Bmossin

@TonyC

I've got that ordered too...luckily was $50 something on eBay vs the $136 from the dealer.


----------



## Dan_nz

This has probably been asked alot but are the transport axles threaded on like the toro or do they need cut off?


----------



## TonyC

They need to be cut off. If you want to see what they look like broken down look at my rebuild thread link in my signature.


----------



## Swampfox

Trying to adjust the bedknife on a 260B but can't get the knobs (B) to turn at all after loosening the nuts (A) Any advice to get these knobs to turn?


----------



## walk1355

Swampfox said:


> Trying to adjust the bedknife on a 260B but can't get the knobs (B) to turn at all after loosening the nuts (A) Any advice to get these knobs to turn?


Lubricate the shaft of the adjuster.


----------



## Swampfox

The right side knob broke off. The left side knob won't turn in either direction. Not sure if I need to lube or heat to get it to break free.


----------



## Dan_nz

TonyC said:


> They need to be cut off. If you want to see what they look like broken down look at my rebuild thread link in my signature.


Thanks Tony, nice tidy job on the rebuild. Well documented


----------



## claydus

Swampfox said:


> The right side knob broke off. The left side knob won't turn in either direction. Not sure if I need to lube or heat to get it to break free.


My T bolts holding the bedbar into the shaft were fairly rusty. I had to get vise grips to turn shaft without breaking knob. I replaced the T bolts but there is still a good bit of rust inside shaft. WD40 and threads bolts outside of the bedbar a few times helped but i think i need to replace the shaft/know assembly altogether.


----------



## Swampfox

Thank you Claydus. I'll give that a try. I just bought this 260B. Needs a little TLC. I'm learning on the fly.


----------



## Swampfox

Claydus,
Your recommendation worked. Thank you. 
Swampfox


----------



## Ren

I was having a great time dropping my height of cut to .4 yesterday... until item # 2 broke (the bail bar bracket)... :shocked:
little bugger is like 42 bucks shipped...


----------



## JoeMcD

985arrowhead said:


> So I have Had my John Deere 180 C for a full season now. I have performed routine maintenance on it annually, and just recently changed my transfer case fluid again.
> 
> 
> 
> What does everyone else's look like?
> 
> Using JD Hygard


 What type of fluid you use in the transfer case? I just bought one and gonna change out everything, I'm not sure when it's been done last on my machine so I'm gonna start with new?


----------



## Ren

JoeMcD said:


> 985arrowhead said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I have Had my John Deere 180 C for a full season now. I have performed routine maintenance on it annually, and just recently changed my transfer case fluid again.
> 
> 
> 
> What does everyone else's look like?
> 
> Using JD Hygard
> 
> 
> 
> What type of fluid you use in the transfer case? I just bought one and gonna change out everything, I'm not sure when it's been done last on my machine so I'm gonna start with new?
Click to expand...



I was thinking about changing mine, probably pick up a 90w or something since it gets so hot here.


----------



## 985arrowhead

JoeMcD said:


> 985arrowhead said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I have Had my John Deere 180 C for a full season now. I have performed routine maintenance on it annually, and just recently changed my transfer case fluid again.
> 
> 
> 
> What does everyone else's look like?
> 
> Using JD Hygard
> 
> 
> 
> What type of fluid you use in the transfer case? I just bought one and gonna change out everything, I'm not sure when it's been done last on my machine so I'm gonna start with new?
Click to expand...

No worries but I mentioned it in the post. Using JD Hygard.


----------



## michaelboardphoto

Okay folks, I'm a TifTuf and reel/greens mower newbie. This site has already been incredibly insightful, so thanks for all the prior posts!
My question is...as I'm researching switching from rotary to reel/greens, a walking greens appears to be the leading long-term solution. BUT, my front yard is nearly all surrounded by sidewalks and driveway, so I'm concerned about getting close to the concrete without damaging the mower. The backyard would be no problem, but I don't want a front yard where I have to go back every time and line trim the couple inches around the whole yard. Does that make sense? 
Thanks again for all the valuable insights and information. Happy Easter to all!


----------



## TonyC

@michaelboardphoto If the lawn is high enough where I can safely roll on the concrete, then I just let the rollers do their business and keep the reel and bedknife away from the danger. You're more likely to strike your water meter cover. For areas where the lawn is below the hardscapes, you have to yield or the transport axles on many models will catch; fences too!


----------



## michaelboardphoto

@TonyC Makes sense to me...thanks! Worse case I can sand and raise my edges over the hardscapes over time if it becomes a struggle.


----------



## mha2345

Just got a used 220SL, first reel mower, first greens mower. Starts on first pull, seems to cut fine (tested with paper first, then on lawn). Seems to be in decent condition, and so far the only issue I have is everything runs fine until you start to slow the throttle down and move at a slower speed, the mower stalls and turns off. Mid-high throttle works fine. Anyone know what would cause this and how to fix?


----------



## TonyC

@mha2345 Grease everything.

Likely there is enough drag on all the bearings that it's simply stalling the engine due to load.


----------



## JoeMcD

mha2345 said:


> Just got a used 220SL, first reel mower, first greens mower. Starts on first pull, seems to cut fine (tested with paper first, then on lawn). Seems to be in decent condition, and so far the only issue I have is everything runs fine until you start to slow the throttle down and move at a slower speed, the mower stalls and turns off. Mid-high throttle works fine. Anyone know what would cause this and how to fix?


Same issue I have, low speed it seems st struggle and if I push up the throttle then I'm running behind the mower 😂🤦🏻‍♂️


----------



## claydus

My GTC is still broken after spending upwards of $120 on a new housing and bearings.

      

I am certain I need these:

MT6821 - $83.29
TCA16576 - $264.67
40M7195 - $3.50
MT6833 - $2.13
MT6901 - $1.68


----------



## Pete1313

@claydus, what's going on with it? What is it doing/not doing?


----------



## claydus

Pete1313 said:


> @claydus, what's going on with it? What is it doing/not doing?


@Pete1313 
See link below for a picture. I knew this was an issue (when I first opened the GTC case) but wasn't sure how serious it was. The gear on the left should not look like that. There should be pointed end that kinda looks like the right gear.

When I set the GTC to "ON" it starts to engage but the slightest movement of the mower (when pivoting at a dead stop) causes the 2 gears to disengage partially. Then when starting a pass with it still "ON" I can hear all sorts of bad grinding inside GTC and the attachment stop spinning while still set to "ON"

It's never worked completely since I bought it. The housing for GTC had a hole in it where 1 of other gears mounts to housing. The grease inside GTC was almost like taffy or bubble gum. Something that I completely overlooked.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NPb28XrA7EvZUDFh9


----------



## TonyC

JoeMcD said:


> mha2345 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just got a used 220SL, first reel mower, first greens mower. Starts on first pull, seems to cut fine (tested with paper first, then on lawn). Seems to be in decent condition, and so far the only issue I have is everything runs fine until you start to slow the throttle down and move at a slower speed, the mower stalls and turns off. Mid-high throttle works fine. Anyone know what would cause this and how to fix?
> 
> 
> 
> Same issue I have, low speed it seems st struggle and if I push up the throttle then I'm running behind the mower 😂🤦🏻‍♂️
Click to expand...

I know this is a long thread, and forum decorum says not to say read the history this has been asked before. So... I'm trying to give good and honest guidance. Welcome to the party. Grease everything, and make sure movements are smooth and free, the engine will handle the designed load.

Plus I experienced the same.

Cheers!

TonyC


----------



## mha2345

Thanks @TonyC , the thread is quite long, hard to go through all of it!


----------



## g-man

@claydus that part is worn. It will need replacement.


----------



## Hig25

brettgoodyear said:


> So I just purchased 2 John Deere 180b mowers from the weeks auction is there anything I need to be on the look out for as I go through them once I get them? These will be my first venture into the reel mower world. Thanks for the help!


It's been almost 2 years since this post. Would you have any recommendations or things you wish you knew before purchasing? I'm about to buy a 220SL but I am new to all of this (other than using toros 20 years ago when I worked at a golf course). What should I look for to ensure I'm making a sound purchase and not getting myself into trouble


----------



## JoeMcD

Long story short, I bought a 220c recently and I was hopeful it was gonna get me through the growing season but it's for sure gonna need a restoration, so I started trying to adjust the bed knife the other day and the shaft was so seized up the knob twisted off, it's only on there by some brass knurling so I ordered some hardware from Amazon and did a little lathe work and this is what I got!


----------



## TonyC

@JoeMcD That's some skills right there!


----------



## jha4aamu

Dan_nz said:


> Anyone help with the front roller, the clamps dont seem to hold the roller properly and it can fall out, have tried tightening it up, looks to be missing a bolt but was unsure as only picked it up Wednesday


were you able to resolve your roller issue? I am having a similar problem where my front roller just slips out of the clamps.

I did notice that you have considerable less space between your roller and the clamps.


----------



## michaelboardphoto

Quick question for the Deere greens mower pros...220 vs 260. Is it really just a decision between width of cut without any other considerations, or will I get a better cut on a "less than perfect level lawn" with a 22" versus the wider 26"? Thanks!


----------



## bp2878

I have a 220A I'm parting out if anyone needs anything. No grass catcher! Everyone seems to want grass catchers. Has everything except top end of motor. The Reel, roller, plst covers, etc. all there. PM me.


----------



## ChiTX2015

michaelboardphoto said:


> Quick question for the Deere greens mower pros...220 vs 260. Is it really just a decision between width of cut without any other considerations, or will I get a better cut on a "less than perfect level lawn" with a 22" versus the wider 26"? Thanks!


The 260 is a beast. Even the 180s are big and heavy for a new owner. That being said, I'd pick the smallest one that would cut my lawn within the time I want to spend cutting and not buy a bigger unit just because I happen to run into one. The 260s are also really wide at over 40 inches so they are also hard to get through a lot of gates. I know an owner wrote somewhere that he felt the 260s were just built better than the smaller units were but personally I have a 180C and a 260B and I think they both are great machines.


----------



## Ren

ChiTX2015 said:


> michaelboardphoto said:
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question for the Deere greens mower pros...220 vs 260. Is it really just a decision between width of cut without any other considerations, or will I get a better cut on a "less than perfect level lawn" with a 22" versus the wider 26"? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> The 260 is a beast. Even the 180s are big and heavy for a new owner. That being said, I'd pick the smallest one that would cut my lawn within the time I want to spend cutting and not buy a bigger unit just because I happen to run into one. The 260s are also really wide at over 40 inches so they are also hard to get through a lot of gates. I know an owner wrote somewhere that he felt the 260s were just built better than the smaller units were but personally I have a 180C and a 260B and I think they both are great machines.
Click to expand...

This is an interesting perspective, because after owning my 220 for a year, i would love nothing more than to trade it for a 260. I would give the opposite advice and say get the biggest mower you can maneuver in your yard, lol. I think it will come down to individual yards, my yard is open and flat, so i spend all day going back and forth with the 22". I could totally see if you had a bunch of tight spaces to get through or a bumpy lawn smaller could possibly be better. Ive spent a decent amount of time looking at them, i would not think they are built any different, i think they all use the small parts when they can, but obviously the 26 will be heavier.


----------



## claydus

What front roller options are out there for these mowers? Specifically a 220B?


----------



## Pete1313

claydus said:


> What front roller options are out there for these mowers? Specifically a 220B?


Specifically a 220B.

2" - hollow smooth, solid smooth, grooved with smooth end caps, full grooved, extended full grooved, spiral grooved.

2.5" - grooved

3" - smooth, grooved, spiral grooved

Aftermarket - 2", 2.5", 3" almost all the options above plus you have a polyurethane option in smooth and grooved. 4-section smooth and grooved polyurethane options as well.

I'm sure I left out some.


----------



## claydus

Pete1313 said:


> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> What front roller options are out there for these mowers? Specifically a 220B?
> 
> 
> 
> Specifically a 220B.
> 
> 2" - hollow smooth, solid smooth, grooved with smooth end caps, full grooved, extended full grooved, spiral grooved.
> 
> 2.5" - grooved
> 
> 3" - smooth, grooved, spiral grooved
> 
> Aftermarket - 2", 2.5", 3" almost all the options above plus you have a polyurethane option in smooth and grooved. 4-section smooth and grooved polyurethane options as well.
> 
> I'm sure I left out some.
Click to expand...

What aftermarket rollers are out there? I was hoping reelrollers would start making some for these mowers. I have looked at R&RProducts but they do not list any sizes there.


----------



## TeeZygn

I rebuilt my 220B and ended up selling it.

I am now "restoring" my '06 260B I don't have a JD "turf" dealer nearby The Honda GX120 Engine parts are very easy to get but the Greens mower parts are expensive to get and need to be shipped to my location.

The drive belts were going to be $120Cad + Shipping from John Deere ... utterly insane. I have a belt measuring tool and A suitable replacement is a 4L240 belt from Napa available locally and $22Cad for a set. They appear to fit just fine. I still have snow in my yard to unable to properly test. will let you know when I have fully tested.

I have also used valve grinding compound to back lap which can be purchased at any automotive store. I Ordered a new bed knife from RR products and picked up lapping compound as well.


----------



## g-man

@claydus the sell two for the 220B on R&R.

https://www.rrproducts.com/aspx/store/SchematicDetail.aspx?s=JOHN_DEERE^220B_GREENSMOWER^CUTTING_UNIT^ROLLERS


----------



## nathan99218

I have a 180b and i'm about to do an oil change In the manual is says I can use 10w-30 or 10w-40. what are you guys using? I feel like the mower has a lot of hours on it so I'm thinking of going for the 10w-40 because the oil is thicker and thats usually better for a more warn engine. Plus I saw some oil on the spark plug when I changed it out so I'm sure the piston rings are going bad. Runs fine but just want to get the longest life I can out of that Honda engine. Let me know what you think.

I am also having one more problem when It starts first pull and runs great but when I put it to run the reel and press the lever to take off it wants to die I can keep it running by pushing it down slowly. I put fresh gas in. maybe the jet has a clog? I bought a compression tester on amazon to see what it is but I feel like its fine unless like I said above there just too much blow by. like it has enough to start up fine but not enough when you put it under load. Runs and moves perfect with the reel disengaged. sorry for the laundry list of questions. and the reel seems to spin pretty freely so its not too tight


----------



## Pete1313

claydus said:


> Pete1313 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> What front roller options are out there for these mowers? Specifically a 220B?
> 
> 
> 
> Specifically a 220B.
> 
> 2" - hollow smooth, solid smooth, grooved with smooth end caps, full grooved, extended full grooved, spiral grooved.
> 
> 2.5" - grooved
> 
> 3" - smooth, grooved, spiral grooved
> 
> Aftermarket - 2", 2.5", 3" almost all the options above plus you have a polyurethane option in smooth and grooved. 4-section smooth and grooved polyurethane options as well.
> 
> I'm sure I left out some.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What aftermarket rollers are out there? I was hoping reelrollers would start making some for these mowers. I have looked at R&RProducts but they do not list any sizes there.
Click to expand...

Sorry I forgot about this one.

Check out Golfco rollers. They should also have a 3" roller that will fit the 220B along with what they have on their price list. If you have any questions or issues you are looking to correct with changing out the front roller, give them a call.

Also pretty much any roller you see listed for a 220 a/b/c/e/sl will all fit each other. All the JD 22" rollers are pretty much interchangeable with the different mower models. As always, call RR/golfco/JD first to confirm. If you have a groomer (gtc/ftc) call first as 2.5" may be the biggest roller that will fit.


----------



## bp2878

@claydus have a stock groved one for you if you want it. Cheap


----------



## Pete1313

@claydus I might have 3 full grooved ones with no flat edges and 3 solid smooth ones soon as well.


----------



## Txmx583

So I figured out why my gear case had such low oil in it when I did the service... it looks like I have a seal leaking cause every time I finish mowing there is a small puddle of oil on the ground. From what I can tell it looks to be coming from the rear shaft seal.

Has anyone had to replace one of these? Is it hard to access??


----------



## g-man

I think that's just a seal. You will need to take a few things apart to get to it.

But check that you are not overfilling the gear oil. I think the oil level should be up to that bolt, which is below the level of the seal.


----------



## g-man

I found this website today. I see a lot of JD stuff.

https://golfcoursemechanics.blogspot.com/


----------



## Txmx583

g-man said:


> I think that's just a seal. You will need to take a few things apart to get to it.
> 
> But check that you are not overfilling the gear oil. I think the oil level should be up to that bolt, which is below the level of the seal.


I put in 400ml like the manual called for... when I drained it, it didn't even have enough to fill up a shot glass haha. Does 0.4L (400ml) sound like too much?


----------



## g-man

@Txmx583 The instructions on mine are:

Remove transport wheels and position machine so traction drum and front and rear rollers are on a level surface.

2. Remove drain plug (A).

3. Check level of lubricant. Oil should be at the bottom of drain hole.

4. Add oil if required through the upper hole (B) using John Deere Hy-Gard Oil.

Since it says, oil should be at the bottom of the drain hole, I just filled it without the nut in the drain hole until the oil started to come out of the drain hole.

The 180B is similar

MX21102

1. Put block under front roller to level machine.

2. Remove drain plug (A) and oil should be at the bottom of drain hole.

3. Check level of lubricant.


----------



## Txmx583

g-man said:


> @Txmx583 The instructions on mine are:
> 
> Remove transport wheels and position machine so traction drum and front and rear rollers are on a level surface.
> 
> 2. Remove drain plug (A).
> 
> 3. Check level of lubricant. Oil should be at the bottom of drain hole.
> 
> 4. Add oil if required through the upper hole (B) using John Deere Hy-Gard Oil.
> 
> Since it says, oil should be at the bottom of the drain hole, I just filled it without the nut in the drain hole until the oil started to come out of the drain hole.
> 
> The 180B is similar
> 
> MX21102
> 
> 1. Put block under front roller to level machine.
> 
> 2. Remove drain plug (A) and oil should be at the bottom of drain hole.
> 
> 3. Check level of lubricant.


Thanks a million G man!!! I'll do that


----------



## walk1355

Txmx583 said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think that's just a seal. You will need to take a few things apart to get to it.
> 
> But check that you are not overfilling the gear oil. I think the oil level should be up to that bolt, which is below the level of the seal.
> 
> 
> 
> I put in 400ml like the manual called for... when I drained it, it didn't even have enough to fill up a shot glass haha. Does 0.4L (400ml) sound like too much?
Click to expand...

Just curious, when you drained it did you remove the reel engagement knob? The first time I changed my gear oil it was barely draining until I removed this knob to create airflow.


----------



## Txmx583

walk1355 said:


> Txmx583 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think that's just a seal. You will need to take a few things apart to get to it.
> 
> But check that you are not overfilling the gear oil. I think the oil level should be up to that bolt, which is below the level of the seal.
> 
> 
> 
> I put in 400ml like the manual called for... when I drained it, it didn't even have enough to fill up a shot glass haha. Does 0.4L (400ml) sound like too much?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just curious, when you drained it did you remove the reel engagement knob? The first time I changed my gear oil it was barely draining until I removed this knob to create airflow.
Click to expand...

I did, I took that off first then removed the bolt, nothing came out until I tilted the mower back than it started to dribble out a little. Definitely wasn't 400ml though like the capacity says.


----------



## bp2878

Does anyone know if all jd 18" bedknives have the same bolt pattern and are interchangeable? I want a new one for my 180e but r and r doesn't have a direct replace for the parts number in question.


----------



## ga_dawg

After reading the technician manual for the 220e, it looks like the auxiliary light kit for the 220e outputs 12vdc. Am I reading that correctly? Want to switch mine over to an LED light kit from the stock halogen bulb and if I am reading the manual correctly it looks like I won't need a bridge rectifier if the auxiliary alternator that's part of the light kit on the 220e outputs 12vdc already. If so, anyone know how many amps it outputs? I'd put a voltage meter on it if I had one......


----------



## Txmx583

ga_dawg said:


> After reading the technician manual for the 220e, it looks like the auxiliary light kit for the 220e outputs 12vdc. Am I reading that correctly? Want to switch mine over to an LED light kit from the stock halogen bulb and if I am reading the manual correctly it looks like I won't need a bridge rectifier if the auxiliary alternator that's part of the light kit on the 220e outputs 12vdc already. If so, anyone know how many amps it outputs? I'd put a voltage meter on it if I had one......


I'm interested in doing the same!! Thought about it for a few years, ready to see this!


----------



## coolturf

I'm looking at a JD 180 (I think its an "A" but I'm not sure). update : Its a 220A
The guy already sold the engine off of it. 
Do you think I could drop a HF Predator Honda clone on it?
I've had other greens mowers, but not a JD. So I'm not sure if the motor is a reduction type.
I expect I will need to source a pulley for it too, and belts.
The guy selling it can't tell me much about it and Its about and hour and a half away.
Aside from checking the reel for damage, and seeing if it will turn, what else should I be concerned about?
Thanks!


----------



## coolturf

It turned out to be a '98 220A, that needs the engine.
Will a HF Predator 212 Honda knock off work, I don't think so. Not directly anyway.

The Predator 212 has a PTO shaft of 3/4 inch / 19mm OD, and is tapped 5/16 24.

I think I found the part number for the PTO drive sheave (MT1066). 
From the parts diagram it looks like it mounts with an M8 25, so that looks like it might be close enough to work. A 5/16 should fit through mounting hole.

Found these specs on the MT1066 too, but not the inside dimensions.
Largest Dimension (in):4.84 [is this outside flange?]
Middle Dimension (in):3.67 [does this divide the two belts?]
Smallest Dimension (in):2.74 [is this where the belt rides?]
Shipping Weight (kg):1.2791
Largest Dimension (cm):12.3
Middle Dimension (cm):9.3
Smallest Dimension (cm):7.0

Honda has several variants of the GX120 (L, Q, S, T, AR) with different PTO specs, I'm not sure which one the 220A has.
I think it might be the S, which has the M8 25 inside tap, and an 18mm outside diameter. If the MT1066 is made to fit an 18mm PTO shaft, the Predator 212's 19mm PTO would be a problem. Update: It is the "L" variant, with 18mm OD and M8 25 tap.

If I can't make the MT1066 fit on the Predator PTO shaft, I may have to think about fabricating a drive sheave.


----------



## TonyC

coolturf said:


> It turned out to be a '98 220A, that needs the engine.
> Will a HF Predator 212 Honda knock off work, I don't think so. Not directly anyway.
> 
> The Predator 212 has a PTO shaft of 3/4 inch / 19mm OD, and is tapped 5/16 24.
> 
> I think I found the part number for the PTO drive sheave (MT1066).
> From the parts diagram it looks like it mounts with an M8 25, so that looks like it might be close enough to work. A 5/16 should fit through mounting hole.
> 
> Found these specs on the MT1066 too, but not the inside dimensions.
> Largest Dimension (in):4.84 [is this outside flange?]
> Middle Dimension (in):3.67 [does this divide the two belts?]
> Smallest Dimension (in):2.74 [is this where the belt rides?]
> Shipping Weight (kg):1.2791
> Largest Dimension (cm):12.3
> Middle Dimension (cm):9.3
> Smallest Dimension (cm):7.0
> 
> Honda has several variants of the GX120 (L, Q, S, T, AR) with different PTO specs, I'm not sure which one the 220A has.
> I think it might be the S, which has the M8 25 inside tap, and an 18mm outside diameter. If the MT1066 is made to fit an 18mm PTO shaft, the Predator 212's 19mm PTO would be a problem.
> 
> If I can't make the MT1066 fit on the Predator PTO shaft, I may have to think about fabricating an drive sheave.


Why would you do this to yourself?


----------



## coolturf

Some folks get into reel mowing to impress the neighbors... I just like playing with the equipment. But to mow it ya gotta grow it, and I do enjoy that too.


----------



## bp2878

coolturf said:


> Some folks get into reel mowing to impress the neighbors... I just like playing with the equipment. But to mow it ya gotta grow it, and I do enjoy that too.


Looks like my collection, currently have 3 220a's, 180e, and a TruCut. I love rebuilding these things. I've done a 220a and a 220b and sold them already. Didn't make much money at it but had fun doing it.


----------



## coolturf

bp2878 said:


> coolturf said:
> 
> 
> 
> Some folks get into reel mowing to impress the neighbors... I just like playing with the equipment. But to mow it ya gotta grow it, and I do enjoy that too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like my collection, currently have 3 220a's, 180e, and a TruCut. I love rebuilding these things. I've done a 220a and a 220b and sold them already. Didn't make much money at it but had fun doing it.
Click to expand...

So far I have put 5 power reel mowers in the hands of new users (2 GM1000's and 3 Jac PGM22's), all at $300 and under. So no, its not a get rich quick scheme... Haha


----------



## Bermuda Butcher

Hello all,
So I am the new proud owner of a used 180B. Had it almost two weeks. I just spoke with my local John Deere dealer about some grease and bought some. However I'm second guessing this persons knowledge. He sold me the Special Purpose HD Moly Grease. He said this is all I need and it will work on all grease fitting on the mower. Controls, chain, reel. Everything. Have any of ya'll used this stuff on yours? I keep seeing that I need 2 different types of grease. Neither one of them are the Moly.


----------



## TonyC

Bermuda Butcher said:


> Hello all,
> So I am the new proud owner of a used 180B. Had it almost two weeks. I just spoke with my local John Deere dealer about some grease and bought some. However I'm second guessing this persons knowledge. He sold me the Special Purpose HD Moly Grease. He said this is all I need and it will work on all grease fitting on the mower. Controls, chain, reel. Everything. Have any of ya'll used this stuff on yours? I keep seeing that I need 2 different types of grease. Neither one of them are the Moly.


JD Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease, or a general all-purpose grease with an NLGI grade No. 2 rating.

This is a clipping from the JD SL Manual.


----------



## Bermuda Butcher

TonyC said:


> Bermuda Butcher said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> So I am the new proud owner of a used 180B. Had it almost two weeks. I just spoke with my local John Deere dealer about some grease and bought some. However I'm second guessing this persons knowledge. He sold me the Special Purpose HD Moly Grease. He said this is all I need and it will work on all grease fitting on the mower. Controls, chain, reel. Everything. Have any of ya'll used this stuff on yours? I keep seeing that I need 2 different types of grease. Neither one of them are the Moly.
> 
> 
> 
> JD Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease, or a general all-purpose grease with an NLGI grade No. 2 rating.
> 
> This is a clipping from the JD SL Manual.
Click to expand...

Well I guess I was being a little paranoid. The Moly is NLGI Grade 2. So I'm good. 
Thanks for the help. Now time to go pump away. Make sure shes all nice and loose! :thumbup:


----------



## ga_dawg

Txmx583 said:


> ga_dawg said:
> 
> 
> 
> After reading the technician manual for the 220e, it looks like the auxiliary light kit for the 220e outputs 12vdc. Am I reading that correctly? Want to switch mine over to an LED light kit from the stock halogen bulb and if I am reading the manual correctly it looks like I won't need a bridge rectifier if the auxiliary alternator that's part of the light kit on the 220e outputs 12vdc already. If so, anyone know how many amps it outputs? I'd put a voltage meter on it if I had one......
> 
> 
> 
> I'm interested in doing the same!! Thought about it for a few years, ready to see this!
Click to expand...

I managed to get ahold of a multi meter and can confirm it is AC not DC. Looks like I will need the bridge rectifier and capacitor route that others have detailed here on the forum. Not bad but not as simple as I'd hoped.


----------



## g-man

@Bermuda Butcher Be careful with mixing greases. Polyurea is incompatible with a lot of other greases.

https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/882/mixing-greases


----------



## Breebz

Looks like my collection, currently have 3 220a's, 180e, and a TruCut. I love rebuilding these things. I've done a 220a and a 220b and sold them already. Didn't make much money at it but had fun doing it.
[/quote]

Are you planning on sellng the 180E anytime soon?


----------



## bp2878

Breebz said:


> Looks like my collection, currently have 3 220a's, 180e, and a TruCut. I love rebuilding these things. I've done a 220a and a 220b and sold them already. Didn't make much money at it but had fun doing it.


Are you planning on sellng the 180E anytime soon?
[/quote]

Not for a while. I plan on this being the one I hang on to.


----------



## jhealy748

So I was out mowing yesterday and my mower would sputter once in a while and then run fine. It kept doing it and then it sputtered and died like I was out of fuel. I got it started again but it kept doing it. It is a diesel yanmar motor and I'm thinking it's probably a plugged fuel filter? I ordered a new one but wanted to see if I'm on the right track with this thing I'm not much of a diesel mechanic! It had sat for a few years before this season and I've only mowed with it a few times so I'm thinking something may have shook loose in the tank and plugged the filter? Any other things I should check? Just started putting down n for the year so I need to get it fixed pretty quick or I'm doing my 25k sq yard with the great states twice a week! &#128563;


----------



## ttrain

Hey guys new owner here of a used 260b. Is it correct to use the John Deere Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease for every grease point? Thank you.


----------



## ChiTX2015

Ren said:


> ChiTX2015 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> michaelboardphoto said:
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question for the Deere greens mower pros...220 vs 260. Is it really just a decision between width of cut without any other considerations, or will I get a better cut on a "less than perfect level lawn" with a 22" versus the wider 26"? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> The 260 is a beast. Even the 180s are big and heavy for a new owner. That being said, I'd pick the smallest one that would cut my lawn within the time I want to spend cutting and not buy a bigger unit just because I happen to run into one. The 260s are also really wide at over 40 inches so they are also hard to get through a lot of gates. I know an owner wrote somewhere that he felt the 260s were just built better than the smaller units were but personally I have a 180C and a 260B and I think they both are great machines.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is an interesting perspective, because after owning my 220 for a year, i would love nothing more than to trade it for a 260. I would give the opposite advice and say get the biggest mower you can maneuver in your yard, lol. I think it will come down to individual yards, my yard is open and flat, so i spend all day going back and forth with the 22". I could totally see if you had a bunch of tight spaces to get through or a bumpy lawn smaller could possibly be better. Ive spent a decent amount of time looking at them, i would not think they are built any different, i think they all use the small parts when they can, but obviously the 26 will be heavier.
Click to expand...

Hey sorry for the delayed response. I think I might be biased because I bought my 260B for my backyard but my gate to the backyard is two narrow so I'm using the beastly 260B for my 1,500 sqft and the 180C for my larger backyard. Needless to say that I'm having some difficulty getting the 260B around obstacles.

I do understand your pov that the larger the better as long as not many obstacles.


----------



## Ren

ChiTX2015 said:


> Hey sorry for the delayed response. I think I might be biased because I bought my 260B for my backyard but my gate to the backyard is two narrow so I'm using the beastly 260B for my 1,500 sqft and the 180C for my larger backyard. Needless to say that I'm having some difficulty getting the 260B around obstacles.
> 
> I do understand your pov that the larger the better as long as not many obstacles.


I was thinking about this post last week while i was showing my wife how to work the 220... Every time she would engage the clutch it would do a wheelie and jump out of her hands. She then proceeded to crash it into the chicken coop. Glad i didnt have the reel on... :lol: :lol: :lol:

If you decide you want to sell the 260 hit me up. :thumbup:


----------



## ChiTX2015

Ren said:


> ChiTX2015 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey sorry for the delayed response. I think I might be biased because I bought my 260B for my backyard but my gate to the backyard is two narrow so I'm using the beastly 260B for my 1,500 sqft and the 180C for my larger backyard. Needless to say that I'm having some difficulty getting the 260B around obstacles.
> 
> I do understand your pov that the larger the better as long as not many obstacles.
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about this post last week while i was showing my wife how to work the 220... Every time she would engage the clutch it would do a wheelie and jump out of her hands. She then proceeded to crash it into the chicken coop. Glad i didnt have the reel on... :lol: :lol: :lol:
> 
> If you decide you want to sell the 260 hit me up. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Hahah will do sir. I like the machine but I've only had it for a few weeks so who knows I might want to sell it in a few more weeks. TX to CA shipping might get steep though.


----------



## Ren

ChiTX2015 said:


> Ren said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ChiTX2015 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey sorry for the delayed response. I think I might be biased because I bought my 260B for my backyard but my gate to the backyard is two narrow so I'm using the beastly 260B for my 1,500 sqft and the 180C for my larger backyard. Needless to say that I'm having some difficulty getting the 260B around obstacles.
> 
> I do understand your pov that the larger the better as long as not many obstacles.
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about this post last week while i was showing my wife how to work the 220... Every time she would engage the clutch it would do a wheelie and jump out of her hands. She then proceeded to crash it into the chicken coop. Glad i didnt have the reel on... :lol: :lol: :lol:
> 
> If you decide you want to sell the 260 hit me up. :thumbup:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hahah will do sir. I like the machine but I've only had it for a few weeks so who knows I might want to sell it in a few more weeks. TX to CA shipping might get steep though.
Click to expand...

Probably be easier to widen the gate :lol:


----------



## Bermuda Butcher

g-man said:


> @Bermuda Butcher Be careful with mixing greases. Polyurea is incompatible with a lot of other greases.
> 
> https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/882/mixing-greases


Thank you. I'm not sure what to think at this point. I've already loaded it up with the stuff the JD dealer sold me. Guess it's a waiting game now to see what happens. You'd think the people selling these machines would know what mixes and what doesn't.


----------



## ZeonJNix

Question. I have a 260B and the release handle bar bolts came out. I've put them back in and tightened them up, but now when you release the handle bar it doesn't pull back the drive bar so the machine won't stop. I have manually reach down and pull the drive lever back. Any suggestions on how to fix this?


----------



## ILoveGrits

ChiTX2015 said:


> Hahah will do sir. I like the machine but I've only had it for a few weeks so who knows I might want to sell it in a few more weeks. TX to CA shipping might get steep though.


I'm in DFW and have got a 2004 220B if you're interested in making a trade of some sort. I could use the extra 4".


----------



## ChiTX2015

ILoveGrits said:


> ChiTX2015 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hahah will do sir. I like the machine but I've only had it for a few weeks so who knows I might want to sell it in a few more weeks. TX to CA shipping might get steep though.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in DFW and have got a 2004 220B if you're interested in making a trade of some sort. I could use the extra 4".
Click to expand...

Appreciate the offer. I'm going to have to mow the backyard with the 260B before I know what I want to do.


----------



## TonyC

ZeonJNix said:


> Question. I have a 260B and the release handle bar bolts came out. I've put them back in and tightened them up, but now when you release the handle bar it doesn't pull back the drive bar so the machine won't stop. I have manually reach down and pull the drive lever back. Any suggestions on how to fix this?


The drive lever return is completely dependent on the idler pulley return spring. Remove the black plastic belt cover so you can see the drive belts and the idler pulley. *With the engine OFF!* Push down on the idler pulley. There should be pressure resisting you. This is from the spring on the drive cable check that it is not broken or missing.

The second picture is taken from the rear of the mower.

TonyC


----------



## ZeonJNix

TonyC said:


> ZeonJNix said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question. I have a 260B and the release handle bar bolts came out. I've put them back in and tightened them up, but now when you release the handle bar it doesn't pull back the drive bar so the machine won't stop. I have manually reach down and pull the drive lever back. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
> 
> 
> 
> The drive lever return is completely dependent on the idler pulley return spring. Remove the black plastic belt cover so you can see the drive belts and the idler pulley. *With the engine OFF!* Push down on the idler pulley. There should be pressure resisting you. This is from the spring on the drive cable check that it is not broken or missing.
> 
> The second picture is taken from the rear of the mower.
> 
> TonyC
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot. I'll take a look at this tonight.


----------



## JoeMcD

ZeonJNix said:


> Question. I have a 260B and the release handle bar bolts came out. I've put them back in and tightened them up, but now when you release the handle bar it doesn't pull back the drive bar so the machine won't stop. I have manually reach down and pull the drive lever back. Any suggestions on how to fix this?


The cable itself could also be seized up, had to replace mine bc the spring had just barely enough strength to overpower my seized up cable so sometimes it disengaged and sometimes it didn't, got a new cable and it's smooth as butter now!


----------



## JoeMcD

Anyone know how this reel end cap comes off???


----------



## ZeonJNix

JoeMcD said:


> ZeonJNix said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question. I have a 260B and the release handle bar bolts came out. I've put them back in and tightened them up, but now when you release the handle bar it doesn't pull back the drive bar so the machine won't stop. I have manually reach down and pull the drive lever back. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
> 
> 
> 
> The cable itself could also be seized up, had to replace mine bc the spring had just barely enough strength to overpower my seized up cable so sometimes it disengaged and sometimes it didn't, got a new cable and it's smooth as butter now!
Click to expand...

Where did you order your cable from? Good information. I feel like mine releases sometimes and others it doesn't. Very annoying!


----------



## jhealy748

Anybody have any experience with the ya mar diesel motors? I seem to have some sort of fuel issue. It will run for 20 mins sometimes and then stumble and die. Other times it will be 30 seconds and then the same thing. I changed the fuel filter but still the same. It seems like maybe the fuel pump is not working because the cup the fuel filter sits in is almost empty the entire time. I tried filling it up as well and it drained it and then kept doing the same thing. Any ideas? It is so intermittent that I can't put a finger on what is going on! I thought for sure it was just the filter.


----------



## ChiTX2015

JoeMcD said:


> Anyone know how this reel end cap comes off???


No fancy trick. Just twist it off. I do it every time I want to backlap.


----------



## JoeMcD

ZeonJNix said:


> JoeMcD said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ZeonJNix said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question. I have a 260B and the release handle bar bolts came out. I've put them back in and tightened them up, but now when you release the handle bar it doesn't pull back the drive bar so the machine won't stop. I have manually reach down and pull the drive lever back. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
> 
> 
> 
> The cable itself could also be seized up, had to replace mine bc the spring had just barely enough strength to overpower my seized up cable so sometimes it disengaged and sometimes it didn't, got a new cable and it's smooth as butter now!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Where did you order your cable from? Good information. I feel like mine releases sometimes and others it doesn't. Very annoying!
Click to expand...

I ordered it from Greenville turf and tractor, Greenville SC. 
It was 50.00 shipped, not all John Deere dealers are licensed to sell greens mower parts is what I was told my my local place,


----------



## JoeMcD

ChiTX2015 said:


> JoeMcD said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know how this reel end cap comes off???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No fancy trick. Just twist it off. I do it every time I want to backlap.
Click to expand...

Yeah I tried twisting, pulling, rubber mallet, etc... this thing is seized on there!!


----------



## jdselig

JoeMcD said:


> ChiTX2015 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JoeMcD said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know how this reel end cap comes off???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No fancy trick. Just twist it off. I do it every time I want to backlap.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah I tried twisting, pulling, rubber mallet, etc... this thing is seized on there!!
Click to expand...

It's held on with an o-ring. Just pull it straight off.


----------



## ZeonJNix

ZeonJNix said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ZeonJNix said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question. I have a 260B and the release handle bar bolts came out. I've put them back in and tightened them up, but now when you release the handle bar it doesn't pull back the drive bar so the machine won't stop. I have manually reach down and pull the drive lever back. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
> 
> 
> 
> The drive lever return is completely dependent on the idler pulley return spring. Remove the black plastic belt cover so you can see the drive belts and the idler pulley. *With the engine OFF!* Push down on the idler pulley. There should be pressure resisting you. This is from the spring on the drive cable check that it is not broken or missing.
> 
> The second picture is taken from the rear of the mower.
> 
> TonyC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks a lot. I'll take a look at this tonight.
Click to expand...

All parts look to be fine. I adjusted the nuts on the cable to tighten them up a little. It looks like I've gotten it where the release handle bar will come all the way back now. It's not super smooth, but it'll do. Thanks for the help and pictures to go along with it!


----------



## TonyC

ZeonJNix said:


> ZeonJNix said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> The drive lever return is completely dependent on the idler pulley return spring. Remove the black plastic belt cover so you can see the drive belts and the idler pulley. *With the engine OFF!* Push down on the idler pulley. There should be pressure resisting you. This is from the spring on the drive cable check that it is not broken or missing.
> 
> The second picture is taken from the rear of the mower.
> 
> TonyC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot. I'll take a look at this tonight.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All parts look to be fine. I adjusted the nuts on the cable to tighten them up a little. It looks like I've gotten it where the release handle bar will come all the way back now. It's not super smooth, but it'll do. Thanks for the help and pictures to go along with it!
Click to expand...

If you have the black rubber caps on the top of the cables, slip them up and shoot some penetrating oil into the top of the cable sleeve. Those cables are NOT tightly jacketed, and might need some encouragement to loosen up. I would also hit the pivot on the idler bearing arm (careful not to oil your belts). Disconnect the cable from either end and check for any resistance in the drive lever, cable, or pulley pivot arm.

And if you don't have any Rust Penetrating Oil, get some.

Cheers!


----------



## ZeonJNix

TonyC said:


> ZeonJNix said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ZeonJNix said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot. I'll take a look at this tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> All parts look to be fine. I adjusted the nuts on the cable to tighten them up a little. It looks like I've gotten it where the release handle bar will come all the way back now. It's not super smooth, but it'll do. Thanks for the help and pictures to go along with it!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you have the black rubber caps on the top of the cables, slip them up and shoot some penetrating oil into the top of the cable sleeve. Those cables are NOT tightly jacketed, and might need some encouragement to loosen up. I would also hit the pivot on the idler bearing arm (careful not to oil your belts). Disconnect the cable from either end and check for any resistance in the drive lever, cable, or pulley pivot arm.
> 
> And if you don't have any Rust Penetrating Oil, get some.
> 
> Cheers!
Click to expand...

I ran the mower after the adjustments and it worked like a charm. I'll grab some of that oil and hit that as well!


----------



## Breebz

So I left at 3 am Friday morning and drove to Moultrie, GA to pick this up. This is my first reel mower. Hope I havent gotten in over my head. The machine cranked first pull and ran fine but I didnt realize the reel was so rusted till I was looking at it this morning and taking pics.


----------



## coolturf

Surface rust like that is pretty typical of a reel that hasn't been used in a while. Doesn't look bad in the photo. You won't really know what you've got until you give it a backlapping. Looks like a nice machine! Backlapping is basic maintenance on these. Its not that hard. I would back off the reel to bedknife before you start, rubbing a crusty reel against a crusty bedknife isn't good. To keep it from getting surface rust between mowings, I wipe each reel blade and the bedknife with an oiled rag.



Breebz said:


> So I left at 3 am Friday morning and drove to Moultrie, GA to pick this up. This is my first reel mower. Hope I havent gotten in over my head. The machine cranked first pull and ran fine but I didnt realize the reel was so rusted till I was looking at it this morning and taking pics.


----------



## Breebz

I know it needs backlapping. I need to order some compound. What grit do you suggest?
Also I would like to clean the rust up on the roller and bedknife. What is good for getting rid of that?
I plan on doing a paint touch up in the winter. I need to get a grass catcher. The auction place I purchased it from had lots of toro grass catchers laying around but not any for the John Deere.


----------



## ChiTX2015

@Breebz Pinhigh has a combo package with 80 grit and 120 grit + a brush. I received mine a few weeks ago and backlapped. Made a huge difference. I think at around $25 that's the way to go.


----------



## bp2878

@Breebz looks good. I've bought quite a few mowers from there. First thing I do with them is pull the covers, clean all that nasty old grease out, put fresh grease in all the grease zerks, drain and change all the fluids including gas tank. There is no telling how long they have sat outside in the elements so puttting all new fluids and grease Is a must in my opinion. I also put a new bedknife on before backlaping, not always necessary but it can be done for less than 40$ so I just go ahead and do it. R &R doesn't have a direct replacement for the 180e knife, but I ordered a jd 18" knife I. Hopes that they all have the same bolt pattern. The oem jd is $90+, the R&R one is less than half that.


----------



## Breebz

ChiTX2015 said:


> @Breebz Pinhigh has a combo package with 80 grit and 120 grit + a brush. I received mine a few weeks ago and backlapped. Made a huge difference. I think at around $25 that's the way to go.


Thanks for that info. I just ordered the kit you recommended.


----------



## Seth_13

Breebz said:


> ChiTX2015 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Breebz Pinhigh has a combo package with 80 grit and 120 grit + a brush. I received mine a few weeks ago and backlapped. Made a huge difference. I think at around $25 that's the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for that info. I just ordered the kit you recommended.
Click to expand...

Does the website still only except check or paypal?


----------



## Breebz

Seth_13 said:


> Breebz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ChiTX2015 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Breebz Pinhigh has a combo package with 80 grit and 120 grit + a brush. I received mine a few weeks ago and backlapped. Made a huge difference. I think at around $25 that's the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for that info. I just ordered the kit you recommended.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Does the website still only except check or paypal?
Click to expand...

Yes. I had to use Paypal. Thought that was a little odd but they probably dont want to pay the merchant fees for credit cards.


----------



## ChiTX2015

Seth_13 said:


> Breebz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ChiTX2015 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Breebz Pinhigh has a combo package with 80 grit and 120 grit + a brush. I received mine a few weeks ago and backlapped. Made a huge difference. I think at around $25 that's the way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for that info. I just ordered the kit you recommended.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Does the website still only except check or paypal?
Click to expand...

FYI you'll need a 1" socket and a drill. You probably already have those but wanted to give you a heads up.


----------



## Breebz

ChiTX2015 said:


> Seth_13 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Breebz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for that info. I just ordered the kit you recommended.
> 
> 
> 
> Does the website still only except check or paypal?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> FYI you'll need a 1" socket and a drill. You probably already have those but wanted to give you a heads up.
Click to expand...

I have the 180E which comes equipped to run the run the reel backward for the back lapping. At least that is what I have read up about it.


----------



## ChiTX2015

Breebz said:


> ChiTX2015 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seth_13 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does the website still only except check or paypal?
> 
> 
> 
> FYI you'll need a 1" socket and a drill. You probably already have those but wanted to give you a heads up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have the 180E which comes equipped to run the run the reel backward for the back lapping. At least that is what I have read up about it.
Click to expand...

I think you're totally right. In such case you need not worry.


----------



## csmitty

Breebz said:


> So I left at 3 am Friday morning and drove to Moultrie, GA to pick this up. This is my first reel mower. Hope I havent gotten in over my head. The machine cranked first pull and ran fine but I didnt realize the reel was so rusted till I was looking at it this morning and taking pics.


Looks good. Was there an auction recently? I looked a few weeks ago and didn't see anything on the calendar.


----------



## csmitty

So I've gotten around to getting my 220E running good with a new carb and moved on to the reel. Everything spun smoothly and hooked up the drive motor and worked as it should. Except for the GTC. Hoping it was just the cam thing that engages the brush roller I opened it up. My first clue something was up should have been the loose bolts holding the GTC cover on. So someone opened it up to figure out what was going on and said nope, send it to auction. This is why. Other than nasty grease aside.










Cover side









Ugh.









Not to mention one of those gears had a tooth completely missing. Figuring maybe that failed and locked up the gears and snapped that intermediate shaft. Then I got to the shaft which had a lot of play and the seal hanging out. Ball bearings completely destroyed. Even found one ball behind a gear. So then it all made sense. Each one of those 4 gears has some damage either chipped or missing teeth or small detents about the size of a ball on the face of the tooth.

Looking up the parts on myjohndeere was pretty depressing too. Each one of those little gears is about $100 and the one connecting to the knives/brush shaft is $200, not to mention $100 or so for the intermediate shaft that connects to the reel. So it definitely pays to inspect when you can. I didn't really "need" the GTC but it was a nice to have. For now just leaving it gutted so I won't need the different weight and just running it without. Hopefully find some used parts or get lucky on ebay. Maybe even a complete machine with working GTC for less. A bummer but part of the game I guess. My real was still good measuring 4-11/16 and had a tournament cut bedknife. I plan to run a little higher so got a new fairway high cut and dropped it off to get reel sharpened. All other bearings felt pretty good so going to run them.


----------



## g-man

@csmitty it doesnt look too bad. The bearings are just 6002 (if I remember right). I dont see the on/off lever.


----------



## bhutchinson87

Question for all you JD guys. I am looking at the greensmowers on the current Week's Turf Auction https://bid.uselevel.com/ui/auctions/186 and was wondering what should be the key things I look for before bidding. I would think that I should look for the following:


Condition of the reel
Condition of the bedknife
Does it have a grass catcher
Level of rust
Overall general condition

Also, what is a reasonable price say for an 18" or 22"? Thanks for you help.


----------



## jha4aamu

bhutchinson87 said:


> Question for all you JD guys. I am looking at the greensmowers on the current Week's Turf Auction https://bid.uselevel.com/ui/auctions/186 and was wondering what should be the key things I look for before bidding. I would think that I should look for the following:
> 
> 
> Condition of the reel
> Condition of the bedknife
> Does it have a grass catcher
> Level of rust
> Overall general condition
> 
> Also, what is a reasonable price say for an 18" or 22"? Thanks for you help.


I don't know if you can see the bedknife on any of the weeks photos, but you should just plan on replacing the bedknife anyway. They are pretty inexpensive.

Grass catcher, transport wheels are nice accessories to be included, so def check for that. But ive seen a few that had broken operator bails, missing belt covers, etc. None of the current listings say salvage so im assuming some tlc and they should be ready to cut.


----------



## bp2878

I've bought 6 mowers from weeks auctions, along with mower decks, kindot trailers. Everything I've bought has been well worth what I paid for it. It's pretty much a shot in the dark and hope to get lucky but these machines a so well put together it's a pretty safe bet. One mower I bought needed drum bearings but that's pretty much all the issues I've had. Other than small stuff like broken starting ropes, new bedknives, good backlaping, fresh fluids, most of these mowers are ready to continue cutting for a long time. When in doubt, buy 2, or 3.

Here in GA, they go from 50$-$300 mostly. Don't be afraid of the older stuff. The two mowers I currently use every time I cut are 220a's, around 15 years old. Couldn't be happier with them.


----------



## bhutchinson87

@jha4aamu @bp2878 Thanks for the feedback guys :thumbsup:


----------



## claydus

@csmitty are you missing a gear the 1st picture? Just to the right of the main drive gear?


----------



## JonesME

Hi all! First post here and I found this thread which I hoped to find info on a newly acquired machine. Randomly 2 miles down the street from my house, somebody was selling a JD 22r for $250. He told me it needed the drive case cover that runs and stops the reel with the T-handle pin. Long story short, I took a chance on it and gave him $150. I thought i got a great deal and found all the parts i needed except for one measly compression spring. My question is, should I bother with this little project and wait for a salvage compression spring, or cut my losses and move on.

I didn't see a lot of talk, if any in this thread about the 22r. I get that its an antique by now but for $150 it will get me into the world of reel cutting on the cheap and the reel and motor are in great condition. Has a grass catcher too!

Also, if there are any experts that could chime in about whether or not that little compression spring (Part# ET13412) is totally necessary or has to be an exact fit that would be helpful.


----------



## bhutchinson87

Looks like it's only $3 https://www.green-parts-direct.com/john-deere-part-ET13412-Compression-Spring/PD/4220730.

If you have all the parts and it's in decent enough condition, I would give it a go and see what happens :dunno:


----------



## JonesME

@bhutchinson87 That is the one I attempted to order yesterday and was told they no longer have them even though they show in stock on green parts and weingartz. I believe they are the same or affiliated. I called around everywhere today to local mechanics and even messaged JD parts people on eBay to see if they had anything. No luck.


----------



## csmitty

bhutchinson87 said:


> Question for all you JD guys. I am looking at the greensmowers on the current Week's Turf Auction https://bid.uselevel.com/ui/auctions/186 and was wondering what should be the key things I look for before bidding. I would think that I should look for the following:
> 
> 
> Condition of the reel
> Condition of the bedknife
> Does it have a grass catcher
> Level of rust
> Overall general condition
> 
> Also, what is a reasonable price say for an 18" or 22"? Thanks for you help.


Just curious but have you gotten any shipping quotes yet? I emailed who I used last time and haven't heard back. 3x the distance so assuming 3x the cost. Have to factor that in as well.


----------



## csmitty

g-man said:


> @csmitty it doesnt look too bad. The bearings are just 6002 (if I remember right). I dont see the on/off lever.


Yes, 6002RS. And I couldn't find any quality bearings for significantly cheaper than Deere. So just ordered some from them. The issue is the gears themselves are all torn up. I'll grab a pic later.



claydus said:


> @csmitty are you missing a gear the 1st picture? Just to the right of the main drive gear?


That one is attached to the cover.


----------



## bhutchinson87

csmitty said:


> Just curious but have you gotten any shipping quotes yet? I emailed who I used last time and haven't heard back. 3x the distance so assuming 3x the cost. Have to factor that in as well.


I got a quote through Trinity Logistics. I found their contact info from this post https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=117120#p117120, but I actually received and email back within a couple hours from Greg Card ([email protected]) who works in the DFW area. They wanted $275 to bring it to a terminal via FedEx, and for being around 1,200 miles from OH to TX it seemed like a good price compared to what g-man said in this post https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=29861#p29861.


----------



## coolturf

Show us a picture! I don't know what a JD 22R is, but I personally love the vintage reel mowers that can be use as a daily driver. There is a great thread about a vintage Toro 500 that was restored. If you can find a way to replace the spring I would say do it.



JonesME said:


> Hi all! First post here and I found this thread which I hoped to find info on a newly acquired machine. Randomly 2 miles down the street from my house, somebody was selling a JD 22r for $250. He told me it needed the drive case cover that runs and stops the reel with the T-handle pin. Long story short, I took a chance on it and gave him $150. I thought i got a great deal and found all the parts i needed except for one measly compression spring. My question is, should I bother with this little project and wait for a salvage compression spring, or cut my losses and move on.
> 
> I didn't see a lot of talk, if any in this thread about the 22r. I get that its an antique by now but for $150 it will get me into the world of reel cutting on the cheap and the reel and motor are in great condition. Has a grass catcher too!
> 
> Also, if there are any experts that could chime in about whether or not that little compression spring (Part# ET13412) is totally necessary or has to be an exact fit that would be helpful.


----------



## JonesME

coolturf said:


> Show us a picture! I don't know what a JD 22R is, but I personally love the vintage reel mowers that can be use as a daily driver. There is a great thread about a vintage Toro 500 that was restored. If you can find a way to replace the spring I would say do it.
> 
> 
> 
> JonesME said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all! First post here and I found this thread which I hoped to find info on a newly acquired machine. Randomly 2 miles down the street from my house, somebody was selling a JD 22r for $250. He told me it needed the drive case cover that runs and stops the reel with the T-handle pin. Long story short, I took a chance on it and gave him $150. I thought i got a great deal and found all the parts i needed except for one measly compression spring. My question is, should I bother with this little project and wait for a salvage compression spring, or cut my losses and move on.
> 
> I didn't see a lot of talk, if any in this thread about the 22r. I get that its an antique by now but for $150 it will get me into the world of reel cutting on the cheap and the reel and motor are in great condition. Has a grass catcher too!
> 
> Also, if there are any experts that could chime in about whether or not that little compression spring (Part# ET13412) is totally necessary or has to be an exact fit that would be helpful.
Click to expand...

I will do my best to get some pictures when I get home from work this afternoon.


----------



## coolturf

If anyone is looking for a grass catcher for a 220A, 220B, 220C or 220E, I just posted some over in members marketplace.


----------



## csmitty

bhutchinson87 said:


> csmitty said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious but have you gotten any shipping quotes yet? I emailed who I used last time and haven't heard back. 3x the distance so assuming 3x the cost. Have to factor that in as well.
> 
> 
> 
> I got a quote through Trinity Logistics. I found their contact info from this post https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=117120#p117120, but I actually received and email back within a couple hours from Greg Card ([email protected]) who works in the DFW area. They wanted $275 to bring it to a terminal via FedEx, and for being around 1,200 miles from OH to TX it seemed like a good price compared to what g-man said in this post https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=29861#p29861.
Click to expand...

Thanks. That is a pretty good price. I heard back from the guy I used last time and he said $675. With no other options I decided not to big. Then I got some quotes from uship in the 250-275 range. Which I would have probably bid then. But oh well. Next time. I'm also probably half the distance so will try that trinity logistics next time I need a quote.


----------



## jha4aamu

csmitty said:


> bhutchinson87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> csmitty said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious but have you gotten any shipping quotes yet? I emailed who I used last time and haven't heard back. 3x the distance so assuming 3x the cost. Have to factor that in as well.
> 
> 
> 
> I got a quote through Trinity Logistics. I found their contact info from this post https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=117120#p117120, but I actually received and email back within a couple hours from Greg Card ([email protected]) who works in the DFW area. They wanted $275 to bring it to a terminal via FedEx, and for being around 1,200 miles from OH to TX it seemed like a good price compared to what g-man said in this post https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=29861#p29861.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks. That is a pretty good price. I heard back from the guy I used last time and he said $675. With no other options I decided not to big. Then I got some quotes from uship in the 250-275 range. Which I would have probably bid then. But oh well. Next time. I'm also probably half the distance so will try that trinity logistics next time I need a quote.
Click to expand...

weeks has another turf auction starting in a few days. not as many greens mowers as the one last week but prices will probably be less


----------



## JonesME

coolturf said:


> Show us a picture! I don't know what a JD 22R is, but I personally love the vintage reel mowers that can be use as a daily driver. There is a great thread about a vintage Toro 500 that was restored. If you can find a way to replace the spring I would say do it.
> 
> 
> 
> JonesME said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all! First post here and I found this thread which I hoped to find info on a newly acquired machine. Randomly 2 miles down the street from my house, somebody was selling a JD 22r for $250. He told me it needed the drive case cover that runs and stops the reel with the T-handle pin. Long story short, I took a chance on it and gave him $150. I thought i got a great deal and found all the parts i needed except for one measly compression spring. My question is, should I bother with this little project and wait for a salvage compression spring, or cut my losses and move on.
> 
> I didn't see a lot of talk, if any in this thread about the 22r. I get that its an antique by now but for $150 it will get me into the world of reel cutting on the cheap and the reel and motor are in great condition. Has a grass catcher too!
> 
> Also, if there are any experts that could chime in about whether or not that little compression spring (Part# ET13412) is totally necessary or has to be an exact fit that would be helpful.
Click to expand...

As requested here's a few shots of the old beast. I included one picture of the reel engagement housing that's all busted up. When you go to engage it, it grinds like hell.


----------



## g-man

@JonesME that spring (the spring, nut, ball) all look to be there o prevent the lever from turning down while in use. If you can keep the level up, then it might not be needed.

You will need to investigate what is the source of the grinding noise.


----------



## JonesME

g-man said:


> @JonesME that spring (the spring, nut, ball) all look to be there o prevent the lever from turning down while in use. If you can keep the level up, then it might not be needed.
> 
> You will need to investigate what is the source of the grinding noise.


The lever stays up and the reel begins to spin but will start to grind on that pin and no longer spin. My parts (minus the spring) should be delivered soon and I will do more investigating. Do you know if I pull the bolt that's in the housing that I believe goes right to the reel, if I will need new bearings or have to take the reel out entirely? I have never worked on these mowers and its a bit of a learning curve.


----------



## g-man

@JonesME I dont know. No experience with this machine.


----------



## GACory

jha4aamu said:


> csmitty said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bhutchinson87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I got a quote through Trinity Logistics. I found their contact info from this post https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=117120#p117120, but I actually received and email back within a couple hours from Greg Card ([email protected]) who works in the DFW area. They wanted $275 to bring it to a terminal via FedEx, and for being around 1,200 miles from OH to TX it seemed like a good price compared to what g-man said in this post https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=29861#p29861.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. That is a pretty good price. I heard back from the guy I used last time and he said $675. With no other options I decided not to big. Then I got some quotes from uship in the 250-275 range. Which I would have probably bid then. But oh well. Next time. I'm also probably half the distance so will try that trinity logistics next time I need a quote.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> weeks has another turf auction starting in a few days. not as many greens mowers as the one last week but prices will probably be less
Click to expand...

I plan on bidding in the Weeks auction in Moultrie, and if I win I'll be driving down to pick it up. Would be willing to pickup one for someone who is located close to me (Canton) if it helps someone out.


----------



## sreekanth251

I am new to reel mowing and just got a 2014 180 SL from auction delivered. It doesn't cut paper in any place. Engine is running and reel is getting engaged. I see a lot of white smoke coming out of it and it only runs with choke on. I guess I need to change the engine oil and see if that helps.

Questions:

1. Do I need to change the reel or does the reel look good back lapping should be good? I am planning on replacing the bed knife for sure.
2. What kind of engine oil do you recommend?





Thanks


----------



## Bmossin

sreekanth251 said:


> I am new to reel mowing and just got a 2014 180 SL from auction delivered. It doesn't cut paper in any place. Engine is running and reel is getting engaged. I see a lot of white smoke coming out of it and it only runs with choke on. I guess I need to change the engine oil and see if that helps.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1. Do I need to change the reel or does the reel look good back lapping should be good? I am planning on replacing the bed knife for sure.
> 2. What kind of engine oil do you recommend?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks


I would probably put a new carburetor on it as well and change the tank fuel filter.

If you're doing a new bedknife, do the backlap then or have it ground if you can find a place.

I've used 10w30 with no issues.


----------



## Seth_13

When I engage the reel, my mower isn't traveling very fast and the reel rotates at a much slower speed and almost bogs down. I just greased it and replaced the carb (Honda OEM). Before this maintenance, it was almost hard to keep up with.

I have my guesses, but I figure someone may have a quick answer. I've looked for a solution, but no luck. Thanks guys.

https://youtu.be/WyV7JVSP7NA


----------



## csmitty

Bmossin said:


> sreekanth251 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am new to reel mowing and just got a 2014 180 SL from auction delivered. It doesn't cut paper in any place. Engine is running and reel is getting engaged. I see a lot of white smoke coming out of it and it only runs with choke on. I guess I need to change the engine oil and see if that helps.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1. Do I need to change the reel or does the reel look good back lapping should be good? I am planning on replacing the bed knife for sure.
> 2. What kind of engine oil do you recommend?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> I would probably put a new carburetor on it as well and change the tank fuel filter.
> 
> If you're doing a new bedknife, do the backlap then or have it ground if you can find a place.
> 
> I've used 10w30 with no issues.
Click to expand...

Agree on the carb. I've used chicom copy's from amazon with good success for cheap.

Reel looks to have good life left. So if no bad spots just do a bed knife and backlap. I probably should have gone that route but added in a grind when I probably didn't need it.


----------



## sreekanth251

csmitty said:


> Bmossin said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sreekanth251 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am new to reel mowing and just got a 2014 180 SL from auction delivered. It doesn't cut paper in any place. Engine is running and reel is getting engaged. I see a lot of white smoke coming out of it and it only runs with choke on. I guess I need to change the engine oil and see if that helps.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1. Do I need to change the reel or does the reel look good back lapping should be good? I am planning on replacing the bed knife for sure.
> 2. What kind of engine oil do you recommend?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> I would probably put a new carburetor on it as well and change the tank fuel filter.
> 
> If you're doing a new bedknife, do the backlap then or have it ground if you can find a place.
> 
> I've used 10w30 with no issues.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Agree on the carb. I've used chicom copy's from amazon with good success for cheap.
> 
> Reel looks to have good life left. So if no bad spots just do a bed knife and backlap. I probably should have gone that route but added in a grind when I probably didn't need it.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Can you point me to the carburetar link in amazon?


----------



## Bmossin

@sreekanth251

https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=honda+gx120+carburetor&i=lawngarden&crid=1E539RKWWNW1C&sprefix=honda+gx120%2Clawngarden%2C176&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_11

Use the Amazon button at the top of the page and then search Honda GX120 carburetor. Lots of choices...one call out though is the yellow air filters do not really fit unless you modify the airbox. THis might solve all your issues.

https://smile.amazon.com/Carburetor-Assembly-Generator-16100-ZH8-W61-LIYYOO/dp/B07QZYHC6B/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1E539RKWWNW1C&dchild=1&keywords=honda+gx120+carburetor&qid=1590173785&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=honda+gx120%2Clawngarden%2C176&sr=1-5


----------



## sreekanth251

Bmossin said:


> @sreekanth251
> 
> https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=honda+gx120+carburetor&i=lawngarden&crid=1E539RKWWNW1C&sprefix=honda+gx120%2Clawngarden%2C176&ref=nb_sb_ss_i_3_11
> 
> Use the Amazon button at the top of the page and then search Honda GX120 carburetor. Lots of choices...one call out though is the yellow air filters do not really fit unless you modify the airbox. THis might solve all your issues.
> 
> https://smile.amazon.com/Carburetor-Assembly-Generator-16100-ZH8-W61-LIYYOO/dp/B07QZYHC6B/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1E539RKWWNW1C&dchild=1&keywords=honda+gx120+carburetor&qid=1590173785&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=honda+gx120%2Clawngarden%2C176&sr=1-5


Thanks a lot. Will order one.


----------



## sreekanth251

Does anyone have suggestions on how to get these jammed screws out? I used the following manual impact driver but so far no luck. They seems to be chipping away. Running out of thoughts.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Automotive-Tool-Set/1000594839


----------



## djtylerj

sreekanth251 said:


> Does anyone have suggestions on how to get these jammed screws out? I used the following manual impact driver but so far no luck. They seems to be chipping away. Running out of thoughts.
> 
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Automotive-Tool-Set/1000594839


Get a heating torch and heat the head up really hot and try the impact again


----------



## claydus

sreekanth251 said:


> Does anyone have suggestions on how to get these jammed screws out? I used the following manual impact driver but so far no luck. They seems to be chipping away. Running out of thoughts.
> 
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Automotive-Tool-Set/1000594839


You might want to take the bed bar off the mower to get these off. I did this with mine over the winter and i used the same impact driver from Lowes. Also, penetrating oil like PB Blaster and Benzomatic torch should help too.


----------



## jha4aamu

i got my greens mower delivered today from the last weeks auction. everything looked fine (bedknife needs replaced but i expected that), started first pull, reel and gtc engaged. however, taking it back in to my garage i noticed that the parking break lever (and push/pull cable) are missing.

i did some quick searching online and it looks like all the parts i need will be roughly $200, so not crazy expensive. but seeing as how everything ran smoothly, is it even worth replacing?


----------



## coolturf

jha4aamu said:


> ... noticed that the parking break lever (and push/pull cable) are missing.
> 
> i did some quick searching online and it looks like all the parts i need will be roughly $200, so not crazy expensive. but seeing as how everything ran smoothly, is it even worth replacing?


Wouldn't be worth it to me, but I live on a pretty flat lot.


----------



## claydus

jha4aamu said:


> i got my greens mower delivered today from the last weeks auction. everything looked fine (bedknife needs replaced but i expected that), started first pull, reel and gtc engaged. however, taking it back in to my garage i noticed that the parking break lever (and push/pull cable) are missing.
> 
> i did some quick searching online and it looks like all the parts i need will be roughly $200, so not crazy expensive. but seeing as how everything ran smoothly, is it even worth replacing?


They are pretty much useless. Everyone that I have seen, the parking brake has been trashed.


----------



## sreekanth251

Thanks @Bmossin @claydus @djtylerj

I was able to get those screws out by taking the bed bar off and heated up the screws using Benzomatic torch and impact driver.

Thanks a lot for your help.


----------



## jha4aamu

@coolturf @claydus thanks.


----------



## mantnyh

sreekanth251 said:


> Does anyone have suggestions on how to get these jammed screws out? I used the following manual impact driver but so far no luck. They seems to be chipping away. Running out of thoughts.
> 
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Automotive-Tool-Set/1000594839


Mine were stuck also. PB Blaster won't work. I used a nail punch and hammer. Just put the head of the nail punch against the slot on the side you need to hit. Lefty, loosy. Strike it good a couple of times and they should release. This should work. Mine had to be hit a couple times, but once started they came out easily.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

I have a 220sl and I'm wanting to swap out the 11 blade reel with the fewest possible which I believe is a 9. I notice you can adjust the FOC only on the E models. I've seen recommendations for standard, tournament, and fairway bedknifes when changing out the reel but I don't understand the difference it makes.

Is this how you adjust the FOC on previous models by also changing to a different bedknife to match the reel?


----------



## jha4aamu

MeanDean said:


> I have a 220sl and I'm wanting to swap out the 11 blade reel with the fewest possible which I believe is a 9. I notice you can adjust the FOC only on the E models. I've seen recommendations for standard, tournament, and fairway bedknifes when changing out the reel but I don't understand the difference it makes.
> 
> Is this how you adjust the FOC on previous models by also changing to a different bedknife to match the reel?


the different bedknives are for varying min HOC. from about 2.0mm to 7.6mm for the 220sl. they arent going to affect your FOC.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

jha4aamu said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 220sl and I'm wanting to swap out the 11 blade reel with the fewest possible which I believe is a 9. I notice you can adjust the FOC only on the E models. I've seen recommendations for standard, tournament, and fairway bedknifes when changing out the reel but I don't understand the difference it makes.
> 
> Is this how you adjust the FOC on previous models by also changing to a different bedknife to match the reel?
> 
> 
> 
> the different bedknives are for varying min HOC. from about 2.0mm to 7.6mm for the 220sl. they arent going to affect your FOC.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info!


----------



## jjmanton

jha4aamu said:


> i got my greens mower delivered today from the last weeks auction. everything looked fine (bedknife needs replaced but i expected that), started first pull, reel and gtc engaged. however, taking it back in to my garage i noticed that the parking break lever (and push/pull cable) are missing.
> 
> i did some quick searching online and it looks like all the parts i need will be roughly $200, so not crazy expensive. but seeing as how everything ran smoothly, is it even worth replacing?


I am not sure which mower you have, but on the 220E you need a parking brake in order to back lap.


----------



## g-man

@jjmanton all it needs is the parking break switch in the correct position.


----------



## coolturf

FYI, If anyone is looking to buy a John Deere 220E, I just put one up on Member Marketplace.
Thanks


----------



## csmitty

jha4aamu said:


> i got my greens mower delivered today from the last weeks auction. everything looked fine (bedknife needs replaced but i expected that), started first pull, reel and gtc engaged. however, taking it back in to my garage i noticed that the parking break lever (and push/pull cable) are missing.
> 
> i did some quick searching online and it looks like all the parts i need will be roughly $200, so not crazy expensive. but seeing as how everything ran smoothly, is it even worth replacing?


What model do you have? I have some parts 220E's.


----------



## csmitty

MeanDean said:


> I have a 220sl and I'm wanting to swap out the 11 blade reel with the fewest possible which I believe is a 9. I notice you can adjust the FOC only on the E models. I've seen recommendations for standard, tournament, and fairway bedknifes when changing out the reel but I don't understand the difference it makes.
> 
> Is this how you adjust the FOC on previous models by also changing to a different bedknife to match the reel?


The only thing affecting your FOC will be the number of blades on the reel. For a given travel speed.


----------



## jha4aamu

csmitty said:


> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> i got my greens mower delivered today from the last weeks auction. everything looked fine (bedknife needs replaced but i expected that), started first pull, reel and gtc engaged. however, taking it back in to my garage i noticed that the parking break lever (and push/pull cable) are missing.
> 
> i did some quick searching online and it looks like all the parts i need will be roughly $200, so not crazy expensive. but seeing as how everything ran smoothly, is it even worth replacing?
> 
> 
> 
> What model do you have? I have some parts 220E's.
Click to expand...

the mower missing the parking break is the 220sl


----------



## 05brando

Does anyone have any idea what size the chain is on the drive side of a 260c?

I need both #13 and #14 and while the cost isn't huge bulk chain off of amazon will arrive faster and still cost less.



example chain..


----------



## jha4aamu

would anyone happen to know the part number for an FTC for a 220sl and a 260sl? I have been able to find a part number for an FTC for the 220e but was not sure if all 22" cutting units accepted the same FTC.


----------



## TonyC

mantnyh said:


> sreekanth251 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have suggestions on how to get these jammed screws out? I used the following manual impact driver but so far no luck. They seems to be chipping away. Running out of thoughts.
> 
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-Automotive-Tool-Set/1000594839
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine were stuck also. PB Blaster won't work. I used a nail punch and hammer. Just put the head of the nail punch against the slot on the side you need to hit. Lefty, loosy. Strike it good a couple of times and they should release. This should work. Mine had to be hit a couple times, but once started they came out easily.
Click to expand...

@mantnyh @sreekanth251 , This is exactly what works. I used a punch with a flat tip, but a couple of good strikes at a 45° angle and the screw will move. It appears that those heads have already seen something similar. PB Blaster and heat worked for my axle bolts, so I wouldn't complete discount it here. IF you decide to drill them out be very careful not to catch the threads! Don't ask me how I know. Hammer and punch is the ticket.


----------



## Seth_13

Seth_13 said:


> When I engage the reel, my mower isn't traveling very fast and the reel rotates at a much slower speed and almost bogs down. I just greased it and replaced the carb (Honda OEM). Before this maintenance, it was almost hard to keep up with.
> 
> I have my guesses, but I figure someone may have a quick answer. I've looked for a solution, but no luck. Thanks guys.


I adjusted the throttle stop screw, but didn't seem to make a difference. Any advice?


----------



## g-man

Check your governor is setup correctly.


----------



## coolturf

Hey John Deere fans. Anybody know what this battleship gray thing is on the back of a 220A?


----------



## seebryango

@coolturf no idea but it could be some sort of clip system for locking the mower down on a trailer for moving it between greens.... just a thought


----------



## coolturf

seebryango said:


> @coolturf no idea but it could be some sort of clip system for locking the mower down on a trailer for moving it between greens.... just a thought


That sounds plausible. There is a sticker that says JD 180/220 but no part number that I've found so far.


----------



## csmitty

coolturf said:


> seebryango said:
> 
> 
> 
> @coolturf no idea but it could be some sort of clip system for locking the mower down on a trailer for moving it between greens.... just a thought
> 
> 
> 
> That sounds plausible. There is a sticker that says JD 180/220 but no part number that I've found so far.
Click to expand...

Strange, usually they lock into the transport trailer by the transport wheel axle.


----------



## golfingtrigger

All right guys,
Here's my issue. When I engage the reel my 220 C goes dead. I have troubleshot through the reel being too tight and I have checked the reel drive chain for being too tight.￼￼￼ I believe that the issue is a fuel issue.￼ either a dirty carb or I need a new carb. I can tilt it back, and sometimes it will engage. ￼ What do you guys think. ￼￼ 
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDKzxXZhRuk&feature=youtu.be[/media]


----------



## coolturf

golfingtrigger said:


> All right guys,
> Here's my issue. When I engage the reel my 220 C goes dead. I have troubleshot through the reel being too tight and I have checked the reel drive chain for being too tight.￼￼￼ I believe that the issue is a fuel issue.￼ either a dirty carb or I need a new carb. I can tilt it back, and sometimes it will engage. ￼ What do you guys think. ￼￼
> [media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDKzxXZhRuk&feature=youtu.be[/media]


I'm betting against fuel/carb. Sounds like a mechanical issue. But I've never touched a 220C. Will it drive forward with the blade disengaged, or is it just if the blade is engaged?


----------



## golfingtrigger

coolturf said:


> golfingtrigger said:
> 
> 
> 
> All right guys,
> Here's my issue. When I engage the reel my 220 C goes dead. I have troubleshot through the reel being too tight and I have checked the reel drive chain for being too tight.￼￼￼ I believe that the issue is a fuel issue.￼ either a dirty carb or I need a new carb. I can tilt it back, and sometimes it will engage. ￼ What do you guys think. ￼￼
> [media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDKzxXZhRuk&feature=youtu.be[/media]
> 
> 
> 
> I'm betting against fuel/carb. Sounds like a mechanical issue. But I've never touched a 220C. Will it drive forward with the blade disengaged, or is it just if the blade is engaged?
Click to expand...

It will drive with the blade disengaged, it only happens when it's engaged.


----------



## walk1355

golfingtrigger said:


> coolturf said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> golfingtrigger said:
> 
> 
> 
> All right guys,
> Here's my issue. When I engage the reel my 220 C goes dead. I have troubleshot through the reel being too tight and I have checked the reel drive chain for being too tight.￼￼￼ I believe that the issue is a fuel issue.￼ either a dirty carb or I need a new carb. I can tilt it back, and sometimes it will engage. ￼ What do you guys think. ￼￼
> [media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDKzxXZhRuk&feature=youtu.be[/media]
> 
> 
> 
> I'm betting against fuel/carb. Sounds like a mechanical issue. But I've never touched a 220C. Will it drive forward with the blade disengaged, or is it just if the blade is engaged?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It will drive with the blade disengaged, it only happens when it's engaged.
Click to expand...

Just for giggles, try taking the transport wheels off and then try.


----------



## coolturf

walk1355 said:


> golfingtrigger said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> coolturf said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm betting against fuel/carb. Sounds like a mechanical issue. But I've never touched a 220C. Will it drive forward with the blade disengaged, or is it just if the blade is engaged?
> 
> 
> 
> It will drive with the blade disengaged, it only happens when it's engaged.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just for giggles, try taking the transport wheels off and then try.
Click to expand...

Have you checked the gear oil? Just throwing out what I would do next.


----------



## TonyC

coolturf said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> golfingtrigger said:
> 
> 
> 
> It will drive with the blade disengaged, it only happens when it's engaged.
> 
> 
> 
> Just for giggles, try taking the transport wheels off and then try.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Have you checked the gear oil? Just throwing out what I would do next.
Click to expand...

I agree with @g-man , read up on your governor and make sure it's working correctly.

The engine sounds fine without load, and is running fast in the video. You can hear the belt engagement dragging the rpms down, this is where the governor would open the carb to adjust for load.

A couple of things to check. Hopefully these will isolate the issue.

1) Disengage the reel using the engagement lever. Try to engage drive. Does it still die or move freely? You say this is not an issue.
2) Does your parking brake engage/disengage correctly? Make sure your parking break band is not over-tightened and the drive pulleys can move freely. This would be an issue even without the reel engaged. Probably not the cause.
3) Pop the covers off and check for chain deflection and smooth rotation of the idler bushings. Too much pressure on the chains or rusted idler bearings could be adding a significant amount of drag.
4) Check the chains themselves for binding or rust.
5) Remove the reel chain (operators left, front chain), and retest. If it still dies, then...
6) Remove the drive chains and retest. Shouldn't be any different, but this will check the main drive pulley and bearings.
7) With both chains removed, try to turn the transmission shafts by hand. Turning in the forward direction is the important rotation. Turning the front shaft with your hand will likely be difficult.

Hopefully one of those steps got you closer.

Cheers!


----------



## claydus

@golfingtrigger back off reel to bedknife. As in have a big gap between both reel and bedknife. The run the mower and engage the reel. My mower has had same issues with reel and bedknife being too tight and also a bent blade on the reel got hung on the bedknife.


----------



## golfingtrigger

TonyC said:


> coolturf said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just for giggles, try taking the transport wheels off and then try.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you checked the gear oil? Just throwing out what I would do next.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I agree with @g-man , read up on your governor and make sure it's working correctly.
> 
> The engine sounds fine without load, and is running fast in the video. You can hear the belt engagement dragging the rpms down, this is where the governor would open the carb to adjust for load.
> 
> A couple of things to check. Hopefully these will isolate the issue.
> 
> 1) Disengage the reel using the engagement lever. Try to engage drive. Does it still die or move freely? You say this is not an issue.
> 2) Does your parking brake engage/disengage correctly? Make sure your parking break band is not over-tightened and the drive pulleys can move freely. This would be an issue even without the reel engaged. Probably not the cause.
> 3) Pop the covers off and check for chain deflection and smooth rotation of the idler bushings. Too much pressure on the chains or rusted idler bearings could be adding a significant amount of drag.
> 4) Check the chains themselves for binding or rust.
> 5) Remove the reel chain (operators left, front chain), and retest. If it still dies, then...
> 6) Remove the drive chains and retest. Shouldn't be any different, but this will check the main drive pulley and bearings.
> 7) With both chains removed, try to turn the transmission shafts by hand. Turning in the forward direction is the important rotation. Turning the front shaft with your hand will likely be difficult.
> 
> Hopefully one of those steps got you closer.
> 
> Cheers!
Click to expand...

I'm going to have to take a look at the governor next week. I do believe that it has something with the engine not getting enough RPMs when the reel is engaged.

1)	Runs fine when the reel engage lever is off. No issues here.
2)	Like most on here, parking brake does not work.
3-7)	Looked at them yesterday, nothing seemed out of place, rusted, or too tight. The reel drive chain honestly seemed loose to me. Everything moved freely, however I did not remove the chains. After adjusting the governor next week, I'll retest with the chains removed. 
I have noticed that I need a new air filter. I cleaned the carb bowl as well.


----------



## golfingtrigger

claydus said:


> @golfingtrigger back off reel to bedknife. As in have a big gap between both reel and bedknife. The run the mower and engage the reel. My mower has had same issues with reel and bedknife being too tight and also a bent blade on the reel got hung on the bedknife.


@claydus I have thought of that, but I don't believe that is the issue. The reel moves feely, but it's worth a shot.


----------



## claydus

golfingtrigger said:


> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> @golfingtrigger back off reel to bedknife. As in have a big gap between both reel and bedknife. The run the mower and engage the reel. My mower has had same issues with reel and bedknife being too tight and also a bent blade on the reel got hung on the bedknife.
> 
> 
> 
> @claydus I have thought of that, but I don't believe that is the issue. The reel moves feely, but it's worth a shot.
Click to expand...

Have you done any work on the chain lately?
Does the shaft (that comes out of the gray transfer case) spin easily?


----------



## mha2345

Does anyone know if these JD grass catchers will fit a 220 SL?


----------



## Jgourley124

I have a JD 22 Greensmower and I noticed an issue it's been having lately. Regardless if I have the reel lever engaged or not or the forward movement lever engaged or not, after my mower warms up it will automatically start self propelling itself forward. I actually have to hold back the mower when I come to a stop and at low idle because it just wants to take off. It seems to be getting progressively worse after each mow.

Any suggestions on how to fix or what the cause is? Thanks


----------



## TonyC

Jgourley124 said:


> I have a JD 22 Greensmower and I noticed an issue it's been having lately. Regardless if I have the reel lever engaged or not or the forward movement lever engaged or not, after my mower warms up it will automatically start self propelling itself forward. I actually have to hold back the mower when I come to a stop and at low idle because it just wants to take off. It seems to be getting progressively worse after each mow.
> 
> Any suggestions on how to fix or what the cause is? Thanks


Sounds like the belts are still tensioned.


----------



## Jgourley124

TonyC said:


> Jgourley124 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a JD 22 Greensmower and I noticed an issue it's been having lately. Regardless if I have the reel lever engaged or not or the forward movement lever engaged or not, after my mower warms up it will automatically start self propelling itself forward. I actually have to hold back the mower when I come to a stop and at low idle because it just wants to take off. It seems to be getting progressively worse after each mow.
> 
> Any suggestions on how to fix or what the cause is? Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like the belts are still tensioned.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the reply. I loosened the tension aS much as I could and some reason the belts still grab and move the mower forward. They are new belts as of last year and just started doing it this season.


----------



## golfingtrigger

claydus said:


> golfingtrigger said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> @golfingtrigger back off reel to bedknife. As in have a big gap between both reel and bedknife. The run the mower and engage the reel. My mower has had same issues with reel and bedknife being too tight and also a bent blade on the reel got hung on the bedknife.
> 
> 
> 
> @claydus I have thought of that, but I don't believe that is the issue. The reel moves feely, but it's worth a shot.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Have you done any work on the chain lately?
> Does the shaft (that comes out of the gray transfer case) spin easily?
Click to expand...

So I took the reel chain off today and I have no problem engaging the reel with the chain off. The shaft spins easily by hand. Does this mean the problems has something to do with the chain and/or drive?


----------



## TonyC

golfingtrigger said:


> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> golfingtrigger said:
> 
> 
> 
> @claydus I have thought of that, but I don't believe that is the issue. The reel moves feely, but it's worth a shot.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you done any work on the chain lately?
> Does the shaft (that comes out of the gray transfer case) spin easily?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So I took the reel chain off today and I have no problem engaging the reel with the chain off. The shaft spins easily by hand. Does this mean the problems has something to do with the chain and/or drive?
Click to expand...

With the reel chain off, is the reel lever on the transmission engaged? Test again.

If not, there may be drag inside the case. I expect resistance if you try to rotate backwards.


----------



## TonyC

Jgourley124 said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jgourley124 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a JD 22 Greensmower and I noticed an issue it's been having lately. Regardless if I have the reel lever engaged or not or the forward movement lever engaged or not, after my mower warms up it will automatically start self propelling itself forward. I actually have to hold back the mower when I come to a stop and at low idle because it just wants to take off. It seems to be getting progressively worse after each mow.
> 
> Any suggestions on how to fix or what the cause is? Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like the belts are still tensioned.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you for the reply. I loosened the tension aS much as I could and some reason the belts still grab and move the mower forward. They are new belts as of last year and just started doing it this season.
Click to expand...

If you cannot get enough slack in the belts to stop movement, then loosen the engine mounting bolts and slide the engine forward. It is likely at a rear position for the old belts. Make sure the pulleys remain in good alignment (thrust angle).


----------



## golfingtrigger

TonyC said:


> golfingtrigger said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> Have you done any work on the chain lately?
> Does the shaft (that comes out of the gray transfer case) spin easily?
> 
> 
> 
> So I took the reel chain off today and I have no problem engaging the reel with the chain off. The shaft spins easily by hand. Does this mean the problems has something to do with the chain and/or drive?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> With the reel chain off, is the reel lever on the transmission engaged? Test again.
> 
> If not, there may be drag inside the case. I expect resistance if you try to rotate backwards.
Click to expand...

The lever is in the engaged position. When I spin it backwards, I do not have any more resistance than forward. It moves pretty freely.


----------



## mheup

I'm looking for a grass catcher for a 220SL if anyone knows of some floating around out there. Thanks!


----------



## golfingtrigger

Could this issue really be a dirty chain? I took the reel chain off and cleaned the chain and gear and it seems to work fine now.


----------



## TonyC

golfingtrigger said:


> Could this issue really be a dirty chain? I took the reel chain off and cleaned the chain and gear and it seems to work fine now.


I would consider any "drag" on the available power to be bad. Everything needs grease to protect it from water and wear.

Great to hear you might be close to fixed.

Cheers!


----------



## The Anti-Rebel

This is a good cutting unit set-up video specific to a newer john deere unit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLuvBdENnlc


----------



## gamathews7

I've had the 180C for almost a week... cutting paper as soon as I unloaded it from the truck (drove down to Weeks to pick it up) got three cuts in and man is it sweet! I let my neighbor borrow it and he reported back that the bed had broken. See pics below...

My hypothesis is that the bedknife got bent slightly on that end and started making greater contact with the reel, which eventually lead to the bedknife breaking. What's interesting is that only one blade on the reel appears to be bent. Obviously the bedknife needs to be replaced but I believe I can bend and grind that part of the reel enough to minimize contact with the bedknife.

Am I crazy or will I be able to get by without replacing the reel? One of the reasons I bid on this mower was because the reel was in great shape... go figure.


----------



## drfous

gamathews7 said:


> I've had the 180C for almost a week... cutting paper as soon as I unloaded it from the truck (drove down to Weeks to pick it up) got three cuts in and man is it sweet! I let my neighbor borrow it and he reported back that the bed had broken. See pics below...
> 
> My hypothesis is that the bedknife got bent slightly on that end and started making greater contact with the reel, which eventually lead to the bedknife breaking. What's interesting is that only one blade on the reel appears to be bent. Obviously the bedknife needs to be replaced but I believe I can bend and grind that part of the reel enough to minimize contact with the bedknife.
> 
> Am I crazy or will I be able to get by without replacing the reel? One of the reasons I bid on this mower was because the reel was in great shape... go figure.


I recently picked up a 180B with 3 blades that looked like that.

We put a big vice grip on the bent section.

Placed a long screwdriver through the reel to lock it in place.

Then beat on the vice grip to get the blade back in shape. They came out remarkably well. They aren't perfect, but do cut paper.


----------



## g-man

@gamathews7 yes, you can bend and file that blade only. Not perfect, but it will get you mowing. The bedknife was a very thin one. They sell thicker ones.


----------



## claydus

@gamathews7 holy crap that bed knife!


----------



## gamathews7

Thanks for the feedback @drfous and @g-man much appreciated. New bedknife should be here tomorrow and is thicker. Messed with the reel a bit today but need to fine tune it after I get the new bedknife situated. The bedknife is coming from R&R, and they mention that it comes surface ground on the top and front edge. I assume I'll still need to backlap after I install?

@claydus   how bout that!? I said the same thing when I saw it.

Should be back up and mowing Saturday if all goes well.


----------



## gamathews7

:thumbup: Back in action! Bedknife replaced, a light backlapping and she's cutting paper again.


----------



## Purplebottom

Hi All,

First time caller, I sure hope I'm not messing this up! Go easy on me 

I was able to pick up a 220A several months ago and have it running smooth after a little TLC. I am going to do a complete tear down and rebuilt this fall but in the mean time I wanted to make sure I understood FOC/HOC with regards to blade count. When I do my lawn renovation this fall I plan on seeding with a quality KBG and don't think I will go lower than 3/4", maybe 5/8" but I'm not sure yet. I will be replacing the bed knife and reel this fall and was wondering if I should buy the 9 blade reel instead of the 11? Also, would you recommend the "fairway" bedknife?

I'm so glad I found this forum. It is a wonderful resource. Thank you all.

-Troy


----------



## g-man

@Purplebottom you want the fewest blades possible. Even at 3/4in hoc, the reel won't match it, but it will closer and not a big deal. I like the fairway hi bedknife. It is thicker and less likely to bend in a home environment (mulch pieces on the grass).


----------



## coolturf

gamathews7 said:


> Am I crazy or will I be able to get by without replacing the reel? One of the reasons I bid on this mower was because the reel was in great shape... go figure.


A "dog-eared" reel blade is not the end of the world, especially if you are cutting above .5 inch.
IMHO its not worth the risk of trying to straighten it out, too much chance of making it worse. 
Obviously you need to replace the bedknife.
But there is a risk in installing a new reel your "rookie" year with a reel mower. 
Until you have a season under your belt and know all the risky areas on your lawn, sidewalk, driveway, etc.
I'd save the new reel purchase until later.
Just a thought.


----------



## gamathews7

coolturf said:


> gamathews7 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Am I crazy or will I be able to get by without replacing the reel? One of the reasons I bid on this mower was because the reel was in great shape... go figure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A "dog-eared" reel blade is not the end of the world, especially if you are cutting above .5 inch.
> IMHO its not worth the risk of trying to straighten it out, too much chance of making it worse.
> Obviously you need to replace the bedknife.
> But there is a risk in installing a new reel your "rookie" year with a reel mower.
> Until you have a season under your belt and know all the risky areas on your lawn, sidewalk, driveway, etc.
> I'd save the new reel purchase until later.
> Just a thought.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input! I was able to get it sorted out with an angle grinder and a few gentle persuasions with a hammer. Replaced the bedknife Friday and back in action after a light backlapping. I agree with you on avoiding a reel replacement in the rookie year... def a learning curve with these machines


----------



## Purplebottom

g-man said:


> @Purplebottom you want the fewest blades possible. Even at 3/4in hoc, the reel won't match it, but it will closer and not a big deal. I like the fairway hi bedknife. It is thicker and less likely to bend in a home environment (mulch pieces on the grass).


Thank you g-man. I'm looking forward to making a few changes and "upgrades" to this mower.


----------



## Bean4Me

I read through most of 68 pages here. I'm considering a 260sl. Wondering what I should be looking for or asking about on the machine.


----------



## walk1355

Bean4Me said:


> I read through most of 68 pages here. I'm considering a 260sl. Wondering what I should be looking for or asking about on the machine.


I own a 260sl. They are nice machines. The engines are honda 120's and are easy to work on and relativly cheap on parts.

Try to get a reel that has plenty of life left. They start out as 5" in diameter and are end of life when they are down to 4.5" in diameter. A new reel/bedknife/bearings will run you about $400 in parts alone. I just did mine a couple of weeks ago because I wanted to go with a 7 blade reel vs. the 11 blade that was on it.


----------



## g-man

Make sure it will fit thru any fence gates first.


----------



## Bean4Me

This might be a dumb question but how do I measure the reel diameter? Can I easily stick a tape measure in the reel?
No fences or gates here. I like my lawn wide open. 
I remember seeing a table where the hoc could be increased with a 3" roller. If I want to start out at 1.5" how much would a 3" roller cost me?


----------



## somathnao

Hope this is the right thread for this question. I have. JD 180C, I know my lawn is not super leveled, but I just wanted to ask the reel professionals on the forums this question.

In the picture above, I'm mowing from left to right and I'm seeing some unevenness, if you zoom in, you can see those lines where some of the grass are taller than the other. I could mow the opposite direction and would still see similar issues. What can be causing this? Is there something I need to adjust on the mower?


----------



## TonyC

somathnao said:


> Hope this is the right thread for this question. I have. JD 180C, I know my lawn is not super leveled, but I just wanted to ask the reel professionals on the forums this question.
> 
> In the picture above, I'm mowing from left to right and I'm seeing some unevenness, if you zoom in, you can see those lines where some of the grass are taller than the other. I could mow the opposite direction and would still see similar issues. What can be causing this? Is there something I need to adjust on the mower?


Looks like a lawn level issue. Those are large mismatched edges, and you have some scalps in there. You can review the Toro Troubleshooting Appearance to try and understand if an adjustment will fix what you're seeing.

Until you level, just change your rows. Mow at a 45° angle next time and then 90° from that angle. Keep switching it up, throw in a double cut and it won't be so obvious.


----------



## Purplebottom

Another question on the 220A. I am going to adjust the drive chains today and noticed that the left drive cover is "loose" even went bolted down properly with washers. Is a little play in the cover by design? Second, whoever serviced the chains prior to my ownership went super heavy on the grease. Any suggestions on preferred ways to clean the chains and properly lubricate them? The technical manual doesn't mention anything. I was going to use the grease gun and apply a good coat to the entire chain once they are back on the sprockets and the tension is set.
Thanks


----------



## Don_Bass

Anyone ever have trouble with the operator bell not disengaging reel when lettting go of bell?. I tried adjustment on bell and nothing. Just curious if any of you have ran into this issue?


----------



## Keepin It Reel

somathnao said:


> Hope this is the right thread for this question. I have. JD 180C, I know my lawn is not super leveled, but I just wanted to ask the reel professionals on the forums this question.
> 
> In the picture above, I'm mowing from left to right and I'm seeing some unevenness, if you zoom in, you can see those lines where some of the grass are taller than the other. I could mow the opposite direction and would still see similar issues. What can be causing this? Is there something I need to adjust on the mower?


It's definitely level related. I've never sanded my backyard and it's pretty lumpy due to shotty grading by the builder and my JD leaves lines like this in areas. My front yard however, has been completely leveled and spot leveled more as needed and it doesn't leave hard lines at all.


----------



## Ware

somathnao said:


> Hope this is the right thread for this question. I have. JD 180C, I know my lawn is not super leveled, but I just wanted to ask the reel professionals on the forums this question.
> 
> In the picture above, I'm mowing from left to right and I'm seeing some unevenness, if you zoom in, you can see those lines where some of the grass are taller than the other. I could mow the opposite direction and would still see similar issues. What can be causing this? Is there something I need to adjust on the mower?


I would also make sure you aren't inadvertently lifting/removing weight from the front roller while mowing. It's best to grab the sides of the handlebars instead of the top - so you aren't pushing down on the handlebars at all.


----------



## drfous

I have a new to me 180b. First greens mower coming from a McLane.

Thing runs and cuts great after some basic maintenance.

When I engage the drive lever I hear a quick chirp.

Adjust the belt?
Belt is worn?
Or?

Thx!


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Ware said:


> somathnao said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this is the right thread for this question. I have. JD 180C, I know my lawn is not super leveled, but I just wanted to ask the reel professionals on the forums this question.
> 
> In the picture above, I'm mowing from left to right and I'm seeing some unevenness, if you zoom in, you can see those lines where some of the grass are taller than the other. I could mow the opposite direction and would still see similar issues. What can be causing this? Is there something I need to adjust on the mower?
> 
> 
> 
> I would also make sure you aren't inadvertently lifting/removing weight from the front roller while mowing. It's best to grab the sides of the handlebars instead of the top - so you aren't pushing down on the handlebars at all.
Click to expand...

Changing grip will definitely help. I noticed you can make it pop a wheelie by pushing down on the handlebar ever so slightly.


----------



## csmitty

Anyone ever changed the bearings in a solid front roller? Can't see anything in the manual about it.


----------



## g-man

@Pete1313 has and you need a special tool and a press. I don't recall which thread has the pictures.


----------



## Pete1313

I have one of these to remove the bearings.

https://youtu.be/MN7JL3QPPSA

https://www.rrproducts.com/Bearing-Puller-product19003?k=Bearing%20remover

And you need to have access to a press to press the new one in.


----------



## bp2878

Purplebottom said:


> Another question on the 220A. I am going to adjust the drive chains today and noticed that the left drive cover is "loose" even went bolted down properly with washers. Is a little play in the cover by design? Second, whoever serviced the chains prior to my ownership went super heavy on the grease. Any suggestions on preferred ways to clean the chains and properly lubricate them? The technical manual doesn't mention anything. I was going to use the grease gun and apply a good coat to the entire chain once they are back on the sprockets and the tension is set.
> Thanks


That cover should not be loose at all. It should fit tightly. You will typically find a bunch of grease inside these covers. When the bearings get greased periodically, the old grease has to go somewhere and just piles up inside the covers. A good coat on the chain is fine. Get all that old stuff out, it will hold dirt and grass and cause wear. Also check your chains for good movement. You can replace all 3 chains and connecting links for less than $35.


----------



## bp2878

drfous said:


> I have a new to me 180b. First greens mower coming from a McLane.
> 
> Thing runs and cuts great after some basic maintenance.
> 
> When I engage the drive lever I hear a quick chirp.
> 
> Adjust the belt?
> Belt is worn?
> Or?
> 
> Thx!


My first adjustment would be to the cable that engages the belts. The one connected to the lever that you throw forward to go. This will add tension or remove tension when the drive belts engage. Will likely fix your chirp. Make small adjustments and test, doesn't take much.


----------



## Dan_nz

jha4aamu said:


> Dan_nz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone help with the front roller, the clamps dont seem to hold the roller properly and it can fall out, have tried tightening it up, looks to be missing a bolt but was unsure as only picked it up Wednesday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> were you able to resolve your roller issue? I am having a similar problem where my front roller just slips out of the clamps.
> 
> I did notice that you have considerable less space between your roller and the clamps.
Click to expand...

Yes I just made some sheet metal shims to fill the gap. Hasn't been an issue again


----------



## csmitty

Pete1313 said:


> I have one of these to remove the bearings.
> 
> https://www.rrproducts.com/Bearing-Puller-product19003?k=Bearing%20remover
> 
> And you need to have access to a press to press the new one in.


Excellent thanks. That makes sense now. Will have to order one. I do have a shop press which I assume would work for installation. Do they need to be pressed in by the race or can the center stud handle it?


----------



## potterwc

Anyone have any experience with a 220E that the groomer didn't want to engage?


----------



## Pete1313

csmitty said:


> Excellent thanks. That makes sense now. Will have to order one. I do have a shop press which I assume would work for installation. Do they need to be pressed in by the race or can the center stud handle it?


I pressed mine in by the outer race.


----------



## csmitty

potterwc said:


> Anyone have any experience with a 220E that the groomer didn't want to engage?


Yes. Could be a number of things. But only way to find out is to take it off. Its pretty easy. Mine had a broken input shaft you could call it. Coming out of the reel into the groomer is a separate shaft. On mine the bearings for the groomer shaft went and ball bearings got into the gears and jammed them, causing the shaft to break. Also seen rusted up gears/ bearings if the groomer hadn't been used in a long time causing it to lock up.

The 4 gears inside are always turning basically and its a collar that engages the actually knife shaft when you turn the lever on the outside to engage it.

If anything just pull the weight off and turn the reel and see if the stub shaft turns. If it does then the problem is further down the line. But you still have to pull the GTC off regardless to find out.


----------



## csmitty

Pete1313 said:


> csmitty said:
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent thanks. That makes sense now. Will have to order one. I do have a shop press which I assume would work for installation. Do they need to be pressed in by the race or can the center stud handle it?
> 
> 
> 
> I pressed mine in by the outer race.
Click to expand...

Thats how I normally do bearings. I'm sure I can find a socket that will fit nicely.


----------



## potterwc

csmitty said:


> potterwc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have any experience with a 220E that the groomer didn't want to engage?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. Could be a number of things. But only way to find out is to take it off. Its pretty easy. Mine had a broken input shaft you could call it. Coming out of the reel into the groomer is a separate shaft. On mine the bearings for the groomer shaft went and ball bearings got into the gears and jammed them, causing the shaft to break. Also seen rusted up gears/ bearings if the groomer hadn't been used in a long time causing it to lock up.
> 
> The 4 gears inside are always turning basically and its a collar that engages the actually knife shaft when you turn the lever on the outside to engage it.
> 
> If anything just pull the weight off and turn the reel and see if the stub shaft turns. If it does then the problem is further down the line. But you still have to pull the GTC off regardless to find out.
Click to expand...

Sounds like I have a new weekend project! Thanks for the answer. The John Deere manual online has been less than helpful with troubleshooting the issue and the mower is brand new to me so I am still getting acquainted with the adjustments and maintenance.


----------



## g-man

@potterwc check the technician manual. The link is in the first post of this thread.


----------



## csmitty

Yes, the technician repair manual gives the most information. Online is good for making adjustments and operation, even though the same info is in the tech manual.


----------



## Purplebottom

bp2878 said:


> Purplebottom said:
> 
> 
> 
> Another question on the 220A. I am going to adjust the drive chains today and noticed that the left drive cover is "loose" even went bolted down properly with washers. Is a little play in the cover by design? Second, whoever serviced the chains prior to my ownership went super heavy on the grease. Any suggestions on preferred ways to clean the chains and properly lubricate them? The technical manual doesn't mention anything. I was going to use the grease gun and apply a good coat to the entire chain once they are back on the sprockets and the tension is set.
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> That cover should not be loose at all. It should fit tightly. You will typically find a bunch of grease inside these covers. When the bearings get greased periodically, the old grease has to go somewhere and just piles up inside the covers. A good coat on the chain is fine. Get all that old stuff out, it will hold dirt and grass and cause wear. Also check your chains for good movement. You can replace all 3 chains and connecting links for less than $35.
Click to expand...

Thanks bp. I didn't think that cover should be loose. I'll get some washers and see if that helps me tighten it down after doing some cleaning. Man, those things are messy inside!


----------



## enkrypt3d

Anyone know if there is supposed to be a pin that fits thru ball joint on the QA5 cutting units that keeps it centered? I think the pins came out and the cutting units slide around a bit on my 2500E...

Edit found the part # but no idea if it's available... also having trouble finding the leaf spring that's below the hex adjuster for the bed knife to reel adjustment.....

Spring pin: 34H286
Leaf Spring: TCU25393


----------



## Pete1313

@enkrypt3d, looked up the parts diagrams and those look like the correct part #'s. 


Your best bet is to call these guys. They are your golf and sports turf dealer for the Atlanta area. Set up an account with them over the phone, tell them the parts you need, and they will get them shipped out to you.


----------



## drfous

bp2878 said:


> drfous said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a new to me 180b. First greens mower coming from a McLane.
> 
> Thing runs and cuts great after some basic maintenance.
> 
> When I engage the drive lever I hear a quick chirp.
> 
> Adjust the belt?
> Belt is worn?
> Or?
> 
> Thx!
> 
> 
> 
> My first adjustment would be to the cable that engages the belts. The one connected to the lever that you throw forward to go. This will add tension or remove tension when the drive belts engage. Will likely fix your chirp. Make small adjustments and test, doesn't take much.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll give that a go this weekend.


----------



## BermudaBen

I stopped by my local golf course today to ask about possible reel grinding and they had a JD 220A in the back they said doesn't run. We talked for a while and I asked them if they'd like to get rid of it. I'm wondering what you all think would be a reasonable price, but not insultingly low. They don't know if it runs as it's been sitting for several years, however it has compression, so I'm almost certain the engine is good. They couldn't find the transport wheels, and it will probably need either a rebuild or a carb kit at the least. The reel looked to be in okay shape, but I couldn't tell with all the dust. I don't have any pictures. What is a good offer? Thanks.


----------



## enkrypt3d

I'd start at about $400 or so seeing as how the condition is unknown...


----------



## TonyC

@BermudaBen They wrote that thing off as depreciated equipment so long ago. I'd say $100 out the door, or they get it running then $300 MAX.


----------



## Dan_nz

So I just had my 220sl in for a spin grind and a releif grind and also had new bedknife installed. Its cutting awesome except for the right side has to have contact to cut paper at the very edges. Would a light backlapp help this or will it do more harm than good being freshly sharpened?


----------



## enkrypt3d

Do you guys recommend the brush attachment to bring the grass up some on these reel mowers like my 2500E? I'm seeing a bit of the grass just lay down and it doesn't get cut...

maybe something like this?

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/338999/referrer/navigation/pgId/406703939


----------



## csmitty

BermudaBen said:


> I stopped by my local golf course today to ask about possible reel grinding and they had a JD 220A in the back they said doesn't run. We talked for a while and I asked them if they'd like to get rid of it. I'm wondering what you all think would be a reasonable price, but not insultingly low. They don't know if it runs as it's been sitting for several years, however it has compression, so I'm almost certain the engine is good. They couldn't find the transport wheels, and it will probably need either a rebuild or a carb kit at the least. The reel looked to be in okay shape, but I couldn't tell with all the dust. I don't have any pictures. What is a good offer? Thanks.


I'd probably be $100-200 as is. If they get running and reel in good shape to where it gets good then maybe $400-500. Thats figuring it needs a grind vs back lapping. Grind you can figure is about $100 avg or so. Engine is usually fine and would need a carb or deep cleaning/gaskets. If you can check it out again and make sure the reel is good and only needs a BL then I'd try to get it as cheap as you can and do the carb/BL myself. If your inclined to those type of things.


----------



## csmitty

enkrypt3d said:


> Do you guys recommend the brush attachment to bring the grass up some on these reel mowers like my 2500E? I'm seeing a bit of the grass just lay down and it doesn't get cut...
> 
> maybe something like this?
> 
> https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/338999/referrer/navigation/pgId/406703939


I imagine it would help. I have one that I need to install. I see the same on my yard as far as missing some blades. Running a fairway or greens vertical cutter would help to. Do you already have the GTC housing and everything? I'm assuming for a 2500E you'd need 3.


----------



## RemC

I found a John Deere 180B for $600. I added some photos of the reel, roller, and entire mower to get some opinions of the condition. I have another lead on a 220A for $400 which is in a little better condition, but older obviously. I have a smaller yard so I feel that the 180B would be a good fit. I am new to reel mowers so any advise/input would be a great help. Thank you in advance!


----------



## enkrypt3d

csmitty said:


> enkrypt3d said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys recommend the brush attachment to bring the grass up some on these reel mowers like my 2500E? I'm seeing a bit of the grass just lay down and it doesn't get cut...
> 
> maybe something like this?
> 
> https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/338999/referrer/navigation/pgId/406703939
> 
> 
> 
> I imagine it would help. I have one that I need to install. I see the same on my yard as far as missing some blades. Running a fairway or greens vertical cutter would help to. Do you already have the GTC housing and everything? I'm assuming for a 2500E you'd need 3.
Click to expand...

I tried backlapping with 120 grit yesterday and it didn't seem to help much. It requires me to go over the lawn 3 or 4 times before I get all the blades of grass cut which is frustrating... should I have the reels ground and bed knife replaced?

Also the QA5 cutting unit hex bolt bed knife adjustment came off and I had to replace the leaf spring (Finally found the part) but when tightening down the hex bolt to put it back together, tightening it moves the bed knife away from the reel so I'm not sure how to get the reel to bed knife adjustment tighter as it's backwards... does anyone know what i'm doing wrong?


----------



## BermudaBen

csmitty said:


> BermudaBen said:
> 
> 
> 
> I stopped by my local golf course today to ask about possible reel grinding and they had a JD 220A in the back they said doesn't run. We talked for a while and I asked them if they'd like to get rid of it. I'm wondering what you all think would be a reasonable price, but not insultingly low. They don't know if it runs as it's been sitting for several years, however it has compression, so I'm almost certain the engine is good. They couldn't find the transport wheels, and it will probably need either a rebuild or a carb kit at the least. The reel looked to be in okay shape, but I couldn't tell with all the dust. I don't have any pictures. What is a good offer? Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd probably be $100-200 as is. If they get running and reel in good shape to where it gets good then maybe $400-500. Thats figuring it needs a grind vs back lapping. Grind you can figure is about $100 avg or so. Engine is usually fine and would need a carb or deep cleaning/gaskets. If you can check it out again and make sure the reel is good and only needs a BL then I'd try to get it as cheap as you can and do the carb/BL myself. If your inclined to those type of things.
Click to expand...

I can't really tell about the reel or the life it has left. The mower is in really good condition from what I can tell. When I felt on the underside of the reel it did feel like it had a relatively sharp edge. I'm going to scoop it up regardless, its too good to let slip by. I'll post some pictures when I get it back to the house and clean it up a little bit.


----------



## coolturf

BermudaBen said:


> I stopped by my local golf course today to ask about possible reel grinding and they had a JD 220A in the back they said doesn't run. We talked for a while and I asked them if they'd like to get rid of it. I'm wondering what you all think would be a reasonable price, but not insultingly low. They don't know if it runs as it's been sitting for several years, however it has compression, so I'm almost certain the engine is good. They couldn't find the transport wheels, and it will probably need either a rebuild or a carb kit at the least. The reel looked to be in okay shape, but I couldn't tell with all the dust. I don't have any pictures. What is a good offer? Thanks.


Curious... What did they quote you for the grind?


----------



## BermudaBen

@coolturf They said at the moment they don't have the manning/time to do any grinding. But they have a nice setup for spin, relief, and bed knife. Hopefully in the future they'll have time to offer the service. The super is big on backlapping for fairway mowing. He said unless I'm cutting lower than 1/4in, it's not going to make a visible different. He said most of the time they even backlap those they use for the greens.


----------



## Benwag

@BermudaBen great find, if you don't end up keeping it let me know. I have the same mower and could use a second if only for parts


----------



## BermudaBen

Benwag said:


> @BermudaBen great find, if you don't end up keeping it let me know. I have the same mower and could use a second if only for parts


 @Benwag Definitely, I'll let you know if it doesn't work out for me. Hey, do you by chance know anywhere I could find some reasonably priced transport wheels for this thing? lol There are some for sell on ebay for $175 down in Moultrie and that just seems ridiculous to me. It seems the A wheels are even harder to come by than the other models. Do you suppose some generic wheels/hubs of the same size would work if I found a clip for end of the shafts to keep them on? Buying them new is completely out of the question... I priced them at over $800. Honestly, I'm not sure I really need the wheels, but I don't like the idea of the rollers getting scratched up on the concrete.


----------



## Benwag

@BermudaBen yeah I believe the model A transport axels are different than the other newer models so I don't think there is anything out there really to get some. Luckily I don't have any concrete to go over with the mower so I just do without them


----------



## csmitty

enkrypt3d said:


> csmitty said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> enkrypt3d said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys recommend the brush attachment to bring the grass up some on these reel mowers like my 2500E? I'm seeing a bit of the grass just lay down and it doesn't get cut...
> 
> maybe something like this?
> 
> https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/338999/referrer/navigation/pgId/406703939
> 
> 
> 
> I imagine it would help. I have one that I need to install. I see the same on my yard as far as missing some blades. Running a fairway or greens vertical cutter would help to. Do you already have the GTC housing and everything? I'm assuming for a 2500E you'd need 3.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I tried backlapping with 120 grit yesterday and it didn't seem to help much. It requires me to go over the lawn 3 or 4 times before I get all the blades of grass cut which is frustrating... should I have the reels ground and bed knife replaced?
> 
> Also the QA5 cutting unit hex bolt bed knife adjustment came off and I had to replace the leaf spring (Finally found the part) but when tightening down the hex bolt to put it back together, tightening it moves the bed knife away from the reel so I'm not sure how to get the reel to bed knife adjustment tighter as it's backwards... does anyone know what i'm doing wrong?
Click to expand...

If the grass isn't being lifted to the blades then it won't cut. The brush I imagine would help, I haven't tried it yet though. Or a set of fairway or greens knives to cut vertically.

For the QA5 your correct. The bedknife support pivots on shoulder bolt. So tightening the adjusters will open up the bedknife to reel and loosening it will bring it closer. There should be a spring going from the bedknife support to the cross bar to apply pressure. Its pictured here as B.


----------



## TonyC

TonyC said:


> @BermudaBen They wrote that thing off as depreciated equipment so long ago. I'd say $100 out the door, or they get it running then $300 MAX.


@BermudaBen , so what'd ya get it for?


----------



## enkrypt3d

csmitty said:


> enkrypt3d said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> csmitty said:
> 
> 
> 
> I imagine it would help. I have one that I need to install. I see the same on my yard as far as missing some blades. Running a fairway or greens vertical cutter would help to. Do you already have the GTC housing and everything? I'm assuming for a 2500E you'd need 3.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried backlapping with 120 grit yesterday and it didn't seem to help much. It requires me to go over the lawn 3 or 4 times before I get all the blades of grass cut which is frustrating... should I have the reels ground and bed knife replaced?
> 
> Also the QA5 cutting unit hex bolt bed knife adjustment came off and I had to replace the leaf spring (Finally found the part) but when tightening down the hex bolt to put it back together, tightening it moves the bed knife away from the reel so I'm not sure how to get the reel to bed knife adjustment tighter as it's backwards... does anyone know what i'm doing wrong?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If the grass isn't being lifted to the blades then it won't cut. The brush I imagine would help, I haven't tried it yet though. Or a set of fairway or greens knives to cut vertically.
> 
> For the QA5 your correct. The bedknife support pivots on shoulder bolt. So tightening the adjusters will open up the bedknife to reel and loosening it will bring it closer. There should be a spring going from the bedknife support to the cross bar to apply pressure. Its pictured here as B.
Click to expand...

yes so how do I tighten the bolt down and bring the bed knife closer to the reel at the same time? It's counter intuitive...


----------



## Pete1313

@enkrypt3d, tightening(clockwise) increases clearance. Loosening(counterclockwise) decreases gap. Loosen both sides until the knife is completely touching the reel. Then work both sides in small increments to get the proper bedknife gap. I set mine to .001". If the bedknife does not fully touch the reel when both adjusters are loosened, you have a problem(broken spring, frame alignment procedure needed, reel may need a grind or is cone shaped).


----------



## BermudaBen

TonyC said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> @BermudaBen They wrote that thing off as depreciated equipment so long ago. I'd say $100 out the door, or they get it running then $300 MAX.
> 
> 
> 
> @BermudaBen , so what'd ya get it for?
Click to expand...

@TonyC I ended up giving $150 for it. I got it started and everything works, it's just a little rough around the edges. I'll probably need to clean or just replace the carb, filters, etc. It might need a new reel soon, but overall, I'm happy with the transaction. I just wish it had some transport wheels. I doubt 220A wheels will ever pop up for a reasonable price.


----------



## csmitty

enkrypt3d said:


> csmitty said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> enkrypt3d said:
> 
> 
> 
> I tried backlapping with 120 grit yesterday and it didn't seem to help much. It requires me to go over the lawn 3 or 4 times before I get all the blades of grass cut which is frustrating... should I have the reels ground and bed knife replaced?
> 
> Also the QA5 cutting unit hex bolt bed knife adjustment came off and I had to replace the leaf spring (Finally found the part) but when tightening down the hex bolt to put it back together, tightening it moves the bed knife away from the reel so I'm not sure how to get the reel to bed knife adjustment tighter as it's backwards... does anyone know what i'm doing wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> If the grass isn't being lifted to the blades then it won't cut. The brush I imagine would help, I haven't tried it yet though. Or a set of fairway or greens knives to cut vertically.
> 
> For the QA5 your correct. The bedknife support pivots on shoulder bolt. So tightening the adjusters will open up the bedknife to reel and loosening it will bring it closer. There should be a spring going from the bedknife support to the cross bar to apply pressure. Its pictured here as B.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> yes so how do I tighten the bolt down and bring the bed knife closer to the reel at the same time? It's counter intuitive...
Click to expand...

Yes its counter intuitive but once you do it a few times its not that big a deal. Just how it is.


----------



## csmitty

BermudaBen said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> @BermudaBen They wrote that thing off as depreciated equipment so long ago. I'd say $100 out the door, or they get it running then $300 MAX.
> 
> 
> 
> @BermudaBen , so what'd ya get it for?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @TonyC I ended up giving $150 for it. I got it started and everything works, it's just a little rough around the edges. I'll probably need to clean or just replace the carb, filters, etc. It might need a new reel soon, but overall, I'm happy with the transaction. I just wish it had some transport wheels. I doubt 220A wheels will ever pop up for a reasonable price.
Click to expand...

Just keep a search saved on ebay. I found some there that were mis labeled. I think he even insisted they wouldn't fit an A but I knew what they were. Think it was around $100 or so but needed tires replaced.


----------



## TonyC

BermudaBen said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> 
> @BermudaBen They wrote that thing off as depreciated equipment so long ago. I'd say $100 out the door, or they get it running then $300 MAX.
> 
> 
> 
> @BermudaBen , so what'd ya get it for?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @TonyC I ended up giving $150 for it. I got it started and everything works, it's just a little rough around the edges. I'll probably need to clean or just replace the carb, filters, etc. It might need a new reel soon, but overall, I'm happy with the transaction. I just wish it had some transport wheels. I doubt 220A wheels will ever pop up for a reasonable price.
Click to expand...

Some of the best news related to JD purchases I've heard in a while.

Good Job!


----------



## BermudaBen

@TonyC Thank you for your help. I have had a lot of gratifying experiences so far from the TLF community and my lawn journey/reel mower collecting. I'm having some struggles with my rusty trucut, but I kind of expected it when I started taking it apart. I can't wait to have the JD all tuned up and cutting low.


----------



## PGunn

Anyone know what size socket this is? Need to backlap


----------



## ChiTX2015

1" on both of the JDs I've owned/still own (180C and 260B)


----------



## PGunn

ChiTX2015 said:


> 1" on both of the JDs I've owned/still own (180C and 260B)


That's what the manual says but my 1" socket is too small?


----------



## ABC123

You can also thread a bolt into that hole and backlap it that way.


----------



## claydus

Pete1313 said:


> I have one of these to remove the bearings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.rrproducts.com/Bearing-Puller-product19003?k=Bearing%20remover
> 
> And you need to have access to a press to press the new one in.


Any idea what size/model bearings are used in a 220B grooved roller?


----------



## Pete1313

@claydus

Rrproducts part # RAA35741

Deere part # TCA22836


----------



## PGunn

Any recommendations for finding a replacement 180b bedknife?


----------



## claydus

@PGunn JD parts catalog or R&R products


----------



## claydus

Anyone else have issues with their driver lever not disengaging after the bail handle is released?
Or has anyone attempted a bail delete modification to their mower?


----------



## Breebz

I want to get a grass catcher for my 180 E Cut Hybrid. The JD site shows 2 options. Which one do you guys recommend?


----------



## PGunn

I have my 180b cranked up to 1" (highest it will go) and it has a tendency to want to fall back when mowing, almost like a wheelie and I have to push down to keep the front roller on the ground. It also seems to miss cutting a lot of grass. Is it safe to assume that is all due to the HOC it's set at since these mowers are not usually meant to cut that high? Bedknife is sharp, back lapped it today and cuts paper fine. It's new sod, so I have been hesitant to drop too low.


----------



## Bmossin

claydus said:


> Anyone else have issues with their driver lever not disengaging after the bail handle is released?
> Or has anyone attempted a bail delete modification to their mower?


I had to get parts #7 and #8 to fix mine, then I was good to go.


----------



## claydus

Bmossin said:


> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone else have issues with their driver lever not disengaging after the bail handle is released?
> Or has anyone attempted a bail delete modification to their mower?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to get parts #7 and #8 to fix mine, then I was good to go.
Click to expand...

Describe the issue which led you to replace these parts?

The spring (part 7) that sends the bail backwards seems fine. Part 17 (drive lever) and part 12 seem to get hung on part 5 or 2.


----------



## Bmossin

@claydus the bail would not disengage when you let it go. After playing with it, my bolt was bent, which then put the spring off of where it was supposed to be. I bought the spring because it was cheap, and the new bolt fixed the issues I was having...it might actually be back a few pages in this forum.


----------



## claydus

Pete1313 said:


> I have one of these to remove the bearings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.rrproducts.com/Bearing-Puller-product19003?k=Bearing%20remover
> 
> And you need to have access to a press to press the new one in.


Just got this today.... already snapped 1 of the pins in the kit... bearings seized pretty bad... shoulda just bought a new roller


----------



## enkrypt3d

Any tips on fixing the parking brake on the 2500e? It doesn't engage at all and rolls when on hills... Tried adjusting it and it didn't help at all.


----------



## Pete1313

claydus said:


> Pete1313 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have one of these to remove the bearings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.rrproducts.com/Bearing-Puller-product19003?k=Bearing%20remover
> 
> And you need to have access to a press to press the new one in.
> 
> 
> 
> Just got this today.... already snapped 1 of the pins in the kit... bearings seized pretty bad... shoulda just bought a new roller
Click to expand...

Dont use the pins, use the 2 bolts to clamp down on the shaft.


----------



## BermudaBen

I feel like someone could make a killing on bails for the john deere green mowers. Mine is bent and I REFUSE to pay $127 for a new one.

So, is it normal that the steel drums in the back of the 220s lock up when "mow" is engaged? Any time I release the bail at the end of a stripe, I have to yank the mower around to line up for the next one. Is this normal? Everything else seems to be working perfectly, so I'd find it odd that it's a mechanical issue. If this is normal, how do you all work around this?


----------



## bp2878

BermudaBen said:


> I feel like someone could make a killing on bails for the john deere green mowers. Mine is bent and I REFUSE to pay $127 for a new one.
> 
> So, is it normal that the steel drums in the back of the 220s lock up when "mow" is engaged? Any time I release the bail at the end of a stripe, I have to yank the mower around to line up for the next one. Is this normal? Everything else seems to be working perfectly, so I'd find it odd that it's a mechanical issue. If this is normal, how do you all work around this?


Do two perimeter passes around the lawn, then use that space to turn the mower using its momentum. Let off the handle then spin the mower as it slows down right into position to start the next pass. It's a dance for sure, takes some getting use to. I hated my 220 until I figured this move out.

I have a bail handle if you want it.


----------



## SpeedNess

Looking for advice on this 2005 180b being sold locally. Main questios is, is $525 fair, seller claims it runs good and reel was sharpened recently.

My other question is what will max HOC be (Ive seen maybe up to 1'' on this thread but that is on 220's), Can I replaced brackets or roller to make it go up to 1.25?

And last question, I think answer is no from reading this thread, is there a a reel available with less than 11 blades maybe 9 or 7 blades, for the 180 series mowers?


----------



## claydus

SpeedNess said:


> Looking for advice on this 2005 180b being sold locally. Main questios is, is $525 fair, seller claims it runs good and reel was sharpened recently.
> 
> My other question is what will max HOC be (Ive seen maybe up to 1'' on this thread but that is on 220's), Can I replaced brackets or roller to make it go up to 1.25?
> 
> And last question, I think answer is no from reading this thread, is there a a reel available with less than 11 blades maybe 9 or 7 blades, for the 180 series mowers?


The blades on that reel look pretty rough. If the guy is saying it was recently sharpen then I would hope it was done after these pictures. Can the guy show you via video if reel cuts paper?

However, for $525 it might be a good deal. Does the GTC attachment work?(the smaller looking blade in front of the reel). I am pretty sure 9 and 11 blade reels are available. Just look on the JDParts Catalog.

I would low-ball around $400. I paid $800 for my 2006 220B and I feel like i over paid.


----------



## SpeedNess

claydus said:


> The blades on that reel look pretty rough. If the guy is saying it was recently sharpen then I would hope it was done after these pictures. Can the guy show you via video if reel cuts paper?
> 
> However, for $525 it might be a good deal. Does the GTC attachment work?(the smaller looking blade in front of the reel). I am pretty sure 9 and 11 blade reels are available. Just look on the JDParts Catalog.
> 
> I would low-ball around $400. I paid $800 for my 2006 220B and I feel like i over paid.


Thanks for the advice!

My thoughts exactly on the reel pictures, I've asked him if the reel was sharpened after the pics too, have not heard yet. Good idea on asking about a video, I might do that.

He states that everything is working so Im assuming the GTC works too, but will confirm.

I just looked on the JD parts catalog and unfortunately the only reel available for the 180 series is the 11 blade. they do offer the 9 blade for the 220 series.

I thought $400 was good place to start, maybe that will get him down to $425-450.

However I still want to confirm max HOC possible with these before I commit. If I can't get it to , 1.25" I might pass on it for now. My main lawn is not ready for lower than that right now. Need to level!


----------



## claydus

@SpeedNess a bigger diameter roller and different bed knife may get you to that HOC.... but thats pretty long grass for this type of mower.


----------



## TonyC

SpeedNess said:


> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> The blades on that reel look pretty rough. If the guy is saying it was recently sharpen then I would hope it was done after these pictures. Can the guy show you via video if reel cuts paper?
> 
> However, for $525 it might be a good deal. Does the GTC attachment work?(the smaller looking blade in front of the reel). I am pretty sure 9 and 11 blade reels are available. Just look on the JDParts Catalog.
> 
> I would low-ball around $400. I paid $800 for my 2006 220B and I feel like i over paid.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice!
> 
> My thoughts exactly on the reel pictures, I've asked him if the reel was sharpened after the pics too, have not heard yet. Good idea on asking about a video, I might do that.
> 
> He states that everything is working so Im assuming the GTC works too, but will confirm.
> 
> I just looked on the JD parts catalog and unfortunately the only reel available for the 180 series is the 11 blade. they do offer the 9 blade for the 220 series.
> 
> I thought $400 was good place to start, maybe that will get him down to $425-450.
> 
> However I still want to confirm max HOC possible with these before I commit. If I can't get it to , 1.25" I might pass on it for now. My main lawn is not ready for lower than that right now. Need to level!
Click to expand...

Go no higher than $350. Start at $275, and be ready to walk.


----------



## cnet24

Those in the Atlanta area- who are you using for yearly maintenance & sharpening for JD mowers?


----------



## claydus

cnet24 said:


> Those in the Atlanta area- who are you using for yearly maintenance & sharpening for JD mowers?


Reelworks in Braselton

I THINK Howard Brothers will sharpen TruCut's but i see some doing other maintenance on them too


----------



## cnet24

@claydus thanks. I picked up a 220e tonight and happy to be transitioning to the green family.


----------



## claydus

cnet24 said:


> @claydus thanks. I picked up a 220e tonight and happy to be transitioning to the green family.


Post some pictures of your mower! Where did you get it from?


----------



## cnet24

@claydus

Here is the mower. It popped up on FB marketplace in the Atlanta area and I jumped all over it. 2010 220E with only 77 hours on it, I believe it has an 11 blade reel:



I have been reading the operating manual for the mower and all 72 pages of content here to help me understand my mower. The content here has been incredible and made me feel more comfortable with the purchase. I have a few quick questions/need some clarity on a few things that I have come across:

-FOC: I'm targeting an HOC around .500". Based on the table provided in the manual, I think I need to set the FOC setting to 5 as the FOC rate is .48 in for that setting. Am I thinking about this correctly?

-Grease: The manual calls for JD Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea. I have seen from previous posts that this grease does not mix well with others. Do I need to get a new, dedicated grease gun for this grease? How often should I be greasing the zerks? Can I use this in all zerks?

-FTC: Would love to eventually get an FTC and add to my cutting unit. I can see they are expensive- where does everyone usually source this part?

-Reel to Bedknife: I see that John Deere reccomends a .001" gap between the reel and bedknife which allows the reel to turn freely, but still allows an edge to cut paper. After performing a backlap this afternoon on essentially a brand new reel & bedknife, I can only cut paper if the reel and bedknife has light contact. Is anyone here able to maintain cutting paper with the gap suggested? I don't see how that is consistenly possible without a grinder available.

I think that is it for now... more to come I'm sure.

Edit: going to tag @g-man or @Pete1313 to see if they can help


----------



## BrainBailey

TonyC said:


> SpeedNess said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> The blades on that reel look pretty rough. If the guy is saying it was recently sharpen then I would hope it was done after these pictures. Can the guy show you via video if reel cuts paper?
> 
> However, for $525 it might be a good deal. Does the GTC attachment work?(the smaller looking blade in front of the reel). I am pretty sure 9 and 11 blade reels are available. Just look on the JDParts Catalog.
> 
> I would low-ball around $400. I paid $800 for my 2006 220B and I feel like i over paid.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice!
> 
> My thoughts exactly on the reel pictures, I've asked him if the reel was sharpened after the pics too, have not heard yet. Good idea on asking about a video, I might do that.
> 
> He states that everything is working so Im assuming the GTC works too, but will confirm.
> 
> I just looked on the JD parts catalog and unfortunately the only reel available for the 180 series is the 11 blade. they do offer the 9 blade for the 220 series.
> 
> I thought $400 was good place to start, maybe that will get him down to $425-450.
> 
> However I still want to confirm max HOC possible with these before I commit. If I can't get it to , 1.25" I might pass on it for now. My main lawn is not ready for lower than that right now. Need to level!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Go no higher than $350. Start at $275, and be ready to walk.
Click to expand...

Hilarious to see this here. I bought this exact unit for $400. Needed a reel sharpening and new bed knife, of course, but otherwise it's in good condition and runs like a true Honda. Really happy with it so far, just need to find some 180B transport wheels. This came with a set of A wheels if anybody needs some.


----------



## g-man

@cnet24

foc that sounds right. Check your reel blade counts.

Two grease, so 2 grease guns. The reel uses a very thin oily grease.

Ftc, very expensive. Grab from a used auction machine.

0.001 works for me.


----------



## cnet24

g-man said:


> @cnet24
> 
> foc that sounds right. Check your reel blade counts.
> 
> Two grease, so 2 grease guns. The reel uses a very thin oily grease.
> 
> Ftc, very expensive. Grab from a used auction machine.
> 
> 0.001 works for me.


Forgot to mention a have an 11 blade reel. Thanks!


----------



## ttrain

Hey guys I have an issue with my 260, it has a jerking when the reel is engaged. It does not do it when reel is not engaged. Would I just need to check the tension on the reel chain/idler roller? Is there anything I should check?? Thank you!!!


----------



## BrainBailey

ttrain said:


> Hey guys I have an issue with my 260, it has a jerking when the reel is engaged. It does not do it when reel is not engaged. Would I just need to check the tension on the reel chain/idler roller? Is there anything I should check?? Thank you!!!


I would check both. Is the engine also pulsing/surging? If not, could be a drivetrain/cutting tackle issue - look for interference/slack through all the rotational components (maybe you've got a clump of clippings stuck somewhere?). If the engine is surging/pulsing, you likely have a fuel/air problem on your hands resulting from the cutting/drive loads and will need to check the air filter, potentially dive into the carb.

Still new to reels myself, but have worked on a number of small engines, so hopefully this is helpful.


----------



## ttrain

BrainBailey said:


> ttrain said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys I have an issue with my 260, it has a jerking when the reel is engaged. It does not do it when reel is not engaged. Would I just need to check the tension on the reel chain/idler roller? Is there anything I should check?? Thank you!!!
> 
> 
> 
> I would check both. Is the engine also pulsing/surging? If not, could be a drivetrain/cutting tackle issue - look for interference/slack through all the rotational components (maybe you've got a clump of clippings stuck somewhere?). If the engine is surging/pulsing, you likely have a fuel/air problem on your hands resulting from the cutting/drive loads and will need to check the air filter, potentially dive into the carb.
> 
> Still new to reels myself, but have worked on a number of small engines, so hopefully this is helpful.
Click to expand...

Thank you, I believe it is fixed for now just by adjusting the reel chain tension. I ordered a new reel chain to see if that will help as well just going to replace the whole chain.


----------



## BrainBailey

Good deal. Not sure how much those stretch, so might want to check it after you run for a few hours. Glad it's all sorted.


----------



## cnet24

How is everyone greasing this rear roller zerk? Zerk A from the manual picture:



Also- what am I looking for related to area B below? No zerks, so I assume just some WD40?


----------



## g-man

For the roller, I just turn it until it is all visible from the side. Always clean it since it normally has some dirt.

For B, I just take a bit of excess grease from the gun and hand apply it. It is a cam surface and the grease is there to ensure it slides.


----------



## cnet24

Thanks @g-man


----------



## aufan134

Hey guys, I have a 220B that needs a new engine. I went to Harbor Freight and picked up the new Predator 212cc on the cheap. How do I remove the pulley from the old engine? If its not a direct fit, anyone happen to know which one I can replace it with?


----------



## csmitty

cnet24 said:


> Those in the Atlanta area- who are you using for yearly maintenance & sharpening for JD mowers?


Nice pickup. I check occasionally and must have missed that one. Crazy low hours. Mine has 630 or so.

If you search reel on CL then there is a guy out east in loganville I think that seems like he has the know how. I haven't tried him yet. I used reel works earlier this season and wasn't really that impressed. When I picked it up and looked it over I saw some nicked blades, which in all fairness could have been there when I got the unit as I didn't inspect the blades before I dropped it off. However I would have thought that they would have seen it and let me know. Either before grinding, or after. So I brought it up to them and they just back lapped it for 30mins basically. Nicks are still there. They also threw a ton of what appeared to be automotive synthetic grease on the blades. I guess for corrosion? Was bizarre and took a ton of time to get that off. I had some excess JD grease on some zerks that i didn't clean off all the way and it killed the spots it landed on in the grass.

Oh, and if you're interested in a FTC I can probably help you out with some used parts. I have 8 reels (3 had fairway knives and the other 5 had brushes) with GTCs that I'm going through/parting out. Some have been trash but one has been good so far that I put on mine with new bearings and seals. My original GTC had broken gears and shafts.


----------



## Bmossin

aufan134 said:


> Hey guys, I have a 220B that needs a new engine. I went to Harbor Freight and picked up the new Predator 212cc on the cheap. How do I remove the pulley from the old engine? If its not a direct fit, anyone happen to know which one I can replace it with?


I will be very curious to know how this project goes. Please document for us as much as possible!


----------



## ttrain

Anyone know if this flavor of hygard is okay to use for gearbox? It's not exactly the j20c but it says exceeds the min requirements of j20d??


----------



## bhutchinson87

ttrain said:


> Anyone know if this flavor of hygard is okay to use for gearbox? It's not exactly the j20c but it says exceeds the min requirements of j20d??


I just went through this with my mower as well, and ended up buying the gallon jug of the J20C because of the chart below that is in the technical manual. Living in Texas I will exceed the 80°F limit of the low viscosity formula 90% of the time.


----------



## ttrain

@bhutchinson87 thank you for that, I cannot use this one either then


----------



## soupy01833

what is a fair price for this unit

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/281398153043287/


----------



## cnet24

soupy01833 said:


> what is a fair price for this unit
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/281398153043287/


220E & SL are the most current mowers. How many hours? I didn't see it listed.


----------



## soupy01833

He stated It does not have an hour meter


----------



## RCARASITI

Just picked up a 2015 220E with about 500 hours on it.. thought I got a decent deal for $1200 bucks until I read through this thread and see people snaghing em for 600 bucks.. I didnt really want to deal with the shipping aspect.. anyways I am excited to getting used to this behemoth and dominating the grass game on the block. 
Question- Ive gotten her cleaned up and looking good- I am having a little trouble finding the emblems (the large one of the green plastic cover) it is really sun faded and in need of replacement.. anyone have a source?


----------



## cnet24

Can anyone help me identify the bolt size in this picture? The manual just refers to it as a "bolt" (J in the picture)


----------



## gutowscr471

TonyC said:


> @Brackin4au New Carb? Double check you reattached the Governor linkage correctly, especially the spring. Did the spring get stretched or damaged? In the correct holes? As the engine takes load, the RPMs will decrease if the Governor linkage doesn't open the throttle more, and the engine will bog and even die.


Bringing up an old post. I just bought a 2011 220SL and have the exact same problem as listed above. When engaging drive and drive/reel, it just bogs down, even if easing into it and just just dropping the engagement handle. Linkage is there for governor and if RPMs slow, you can see the spring pull the lever back, just not sure if it's fast or strong enough. Any other thoughts as to why engaging drive will bog/kill engine?


----------



## csmitty

cnet24 said:


> Can anyone help me identify the bolt size in this picture? The manual just refers to it as a "bolt" (J in the picture)


Looks to be M6x25. Carriage bolt style I believe.


----------



## TonyC

csmitty said:


> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone help me identify the bolt size in this picture? The manual just refers to it as a "bolt" (J in the picture)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks to be M6x25. Carriage bolt style I believe.
Click to expand...

Yes, @csmitty is correct, it's an M6 x 25mm, also you can see from the picture that it is a Grade 8.8. If you review the Owners Manuals, there is a bolt specifications and information section. This is a dry use area, 8.5 foot lbs of torque, which is not a lot.


----------



## soupy01833

I am still in the market for JD 220 of some sort>
does this look like an OK deal if everything checks out?
they are local to me

https://www.needturfequipment.com/listing/for-sale/194992445/2015-john-deere-220e-greens-and-tees-walking-mowers


----------



## walk1355

soupy01833 said:


> I am still in the market for JD 220 of some sort>
> does this look like an OK deal if everything checks out?
> they are local to me
> 
> https://www.needturfequipment.com/listing/for-sale/194992445/2015-john-deere-220e-greens-and-tees-walking-mowers


That looks like an ok price. Of course, you would want to inspect the unit to make sure it runs and cuts as expected. Also, would be good to have them measure the diameter of the reel to see how much life is left on it.


----------



## douglasahelm

Hi All!

Picked up a JD 180B tonight. It idles rough so there's carb, air filter, and spark plug work in my future.

When I bought it the owner couldn't start it or show me how to operate. Deep discounted pricing since the deal was a risk. So having never run one of these, I'm not completely familiar with what to expect. It seems the drive clutch arm should "click" into place in normal circumstances, but mine doesn't and in fact returns to the starting position slowly.

Is my expectation that it should click into place accurate? If so, can anyone provide advice on what to be looking to repair?

Thank you!


----------



## csmitty

douglasahelm said:


> Hi All!
> 
> Picked up a JD 180B tonight. It idles rough so there's carb, air filter, and spark plug work in my future.
> 
> When I bought it the owner couldn't start it or show me how to operate. Deep discounted pricing since the deal was a risk. So having never run one of these, I'm not completely familiar with what to expect. It seems the drive clutch arm should "click" into place in normal circumstances, but mine doesn't and in fact returns to the starting position slowly.
> 
> Is my expectation that it should click into place accurate? If so, can anyone provide advice on what to be looking to repair?
> 
> Thank you!


Yes a carb, or kit, will usually bring the Honda back to life with no problems. Air filter and plug can't hurt either.

Does it have the operator bail in place? Thats what holds the forward drive arm in place. Or else like you said the spring will return it back up and disengage the drive. Some pics of what you got would be helpful to see if anything is missing. Sounds like a good deal though!


----------



## bhutchinson87

douglasahelm said:


> Hi All!
> 
> Picked up a JD 180B tonight. It idles rough so there's carb, air filter, and spark plug work in my future.
> 
> When I bought it the owner couldn't start it or show me how to operate. Deep discounted pricing since the deal was a risk. So having never run one of these, I'm not completely familiar with what to expect. It seems the drive clutch arm should "click" into place in normal circumstances, but mine doesn't and in fact returns to the starting position slowly.
> 
> Is my expectation that it should click into place accurate? If so, can anyone provide advice on what to be looking to repair?
> 
> Thank you!


In addition to the carb, air filter, and spark plug you should also replace engine oil, gearcase oil, and probably the engine belts. Check all three chains for deflection and, if you haven't already, feel out the reel bearings for any looseness or grinding/binding. Welcome to the JD club and would love to see some pics!


----------



## douglasahelm

Thank you for all of the feedback and willingness to help out. Here are my pics:










Here's a pic with the operator bail engaged and the drive arm held in the forward position









And a pic with it not engaged









To my eye, pics of the area around the belts didn't tell much, but here's one of that view:









Also, I noticed my right transport wheel lost air overnight, so I'm looking to fix that. My tire show 4.10x6.... Is this the same?
https://www.amazon.com/Carlisle-Stu...6+tire&qid=1597946688&sr=8-1&tag=mh0b-20&th=1 The 3.50 is throwing me off.

Thanks again for your help!


----------



## BCliff

I am having an engine similar to some others where when I engage the drive/reel it stalls.(220A) When I engage just the drive it has no issues but when I switch the reel to the "on" position then try to engage it will stall out due to essentially the reel slamming full on. There is no resistance when trying to move the reel by hand.
What i noticed is that before I used to be able to "feather the belt tightening" so that it would engage the reel / drive smoothly before kicking into high gear, now I can do that for the drive but for the reel it seems to be FULL ON or FULL OFF causing a lot of stress on the motor. After thinking about it I have a feeling the problem resides in the "clutch" assembly for the reel, although I can take things apart and put them back together I am not too sure if this is actually the problem, anyone who is more mechanically inclined have any thoughts? I was able to see the assembly by looking at the part diagram on the Deere website ( https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/59759/referrer/navigation/pgId/40788341 ) Could it make sense I am having an issue here? I was thinking it could be my belt tension changed and I need to tighten (maybe loosen?) so that I get more grip when feathering it on... No matter how much I try to feather it right now it just jerks to full on and even moves the little on / off lever. Interesting enough, I can start the mower with the PTO engaged and full choke and mow as normal but doing 180 turns with the roller on full spin is annoying and not very relaxing.


----------



## BCliff

BCliff said:


> I am having an engine similar to some others where when I engage the drive/reel it stalls.(220A) When I engage just the drive it has no issues but when I switch the reel to the "on" position then try to engage it will stall out due to essentially the reel slamming full on. There is no resistance when trying to move the reel by hand.
> What i noticed is that before I used to be able to "feather the belt tightening" so that it would engage the reel / drive smoothly before kicking into high gear, now I can do that for the drive but for the reel it seems to be FULL ON or FULL OFF causing a lot of stress on the motor. After thinking about it I have a feeling the problem resides in the "clutch" assembly for the reel, although I can take things apart and put them back together I am not too sure if this is actually the problem, anyone who is more mechanically inclined have any thoughts? I was able to see the assembly by looking at the part diagram on the Deere website ( https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/59759/referrer/navigation/pgId/40788341 ) Could it make sense I am having an issue here? I was thinking it could be my belt tension changed and I need to tighten (maybe loosen?) so that I get more grip when feathering it on... No matter how much I try to feather it right now it just jerks to full on and even moves the little on / off lever. Interesting enough, I can start the mower with the PTO engaged and full choke and mow as normal but doing 180 turns with the roller on full spin is annoying and not very relaxing.


For the future reader, I fixed this by simply tightening the belt, can feather it in even nicer then before


----------



## soupy01833

is this not the 7 blade reel for a 220E?



Am I missing something as I thought this was more expensive than this


----------



## soupy01833

soupy01833 said:


> I am still in the market for JD 220 of some sort>
> does this look like an OK deal if everything checks out?
> they are local to me
> 
> https://www.needturfequipment.com/listing/for-sale/194992445/2015-john-deere-220e-greens-and-tees-walking-mowers


I just inspected this. It is a beast of a machine.
everything functioned as expected including the the light.
Started on first pull

The machine had 560 hours on it. The reel had good life left and was still pretty sharp. Needs a new bedknife or a good backlapping as the bedknife was not in as good as shape as the reel. It is a minimal cost.
The starting coil most likely will need a new spring as it did not always recoil entirely unless it just need adjustin

I was thinking of offering the bank $1k and see if they would take it.

What do you all think?


----------



## soupy01833

BCliff said:


> BCliff said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am having an engine similar to some others where when I engage the drive/reel it stalls.(220A) When I engage just the drive it has no issues but when I switch the reel to the "on" position then try to engage it will stall out due to essentially the reel slamming full on. There is no resistance when trying to move the reel by hand.
> What i noticed is that before I used to be able to "feather the belt tightening" so that it would engage the reel / drive smoothly before kicking into high gear, now I can do that for the drive but for the reel it seems to be FULL ON or FULL OFF causing a lot of stress on the motor. After thinking about it I have a feeling the problem resides in the "clutch" assembly for the reel, although I can take things apart and put them back together I am not too sure if this is actually the problem, anyone who is more mechanically inclined have any thoughts? I was able to see the assembly by looking at the part diagram on the Deere website ( https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/59759/referrer/navigation/pgId/40788341 ) Could it make sense I am having an issue here? I was thinking it could be my belt tension changed and I need to tighten (maybe loosen?) so that I get more grip when feathering it on... No matter how much I try to feather it right now it just jerks to full on and even moves the little on / off lever. Interesting enough, I can start the mower with the PTO engaged and full choke and mow as normal but doing 180 turns with the roller on full spin is annoying and not very relaxing.
> 
> 
> 
> For the future reader, I fixed this by simply tightening the belt, can feather it in even nicer then before
Click to expand...

did you just tighten the nut to shorten the cable?


----------



## BCliff

soupy01833 said:


> did you just tighten the nut to shorten the cable?


Moved the engine was the easiest for me, tried fiddling with the nuts but one of them was jammed and didn't have the correct wrench to get it free. I think the tighter the easier it is on the engine, IMO.


----------



## soupy01833

Thank you


----------



## Pete1313

soupy01833 said:


> is this not the 7 blade reel for a 220E?
> 
> 
> 
> Am I missing something as I thought this was more expensive than this


That is the 7 blade for the 220E and is a very good price! Where did you find them so cheap?


----------



## soupy01833

that is a local repair shop about 2 miles from me called revels turf and tractor.
they also have a place in Myrtle beach


----------



## RCARASITI

Hey I need a grass collector for a 220E ... are there any differences between the older baskets and newer ones? (A-E)


----------



## RCARASITI

soupy01833 said:


> that is a local repair shop about 2 miles from me called revels turf and tractor.
> they also have a place in Myrtle beach


Did you make the offer on the mower? Looks like a sister mower to the 2 I bought.. I ended up spending a few bucks to get her straightened out at revels but its in perfect shape.


----------



## soupy01833

I am waiting for the offer response. How much did revels charge you and what did they do?
And why did you buy 2 @RCARASITI


----------



## gutowscr471

BCliff said:


> BCliff said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am having an engine similar to some others where when I engage the drive/reel it stalls.(220A) When I engage just the drive it has no issues but when I switch the reel to the "on" position then try to engage it will stall out due to essentially the reel slamming full on. There is no resistance when trying to move the reel by hand.
> What i noticed is that before I used to be able to "feather the belt tightening" so that it would engage the reel / drive smoothly before kicking into high gear, now I can do that for the drive but for the reel it seems to be FULL ON or FULL OFF causing a lot of stress on the motor. After thinking about it I have a feeling the problem resides in the "clutch" assembly for the reel, although I can take things apart and put them back together I am not too sure if this is actually the problem, anyone who is more mechanically inclined have any thoughts? I was able to see the assembly by looking at the part diagram on the Deere website ( https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/59759/referrer/navigation/pgId/40788341 ) Could it make sense I am having an issue here? I was thinking it could be my belt tension changed and I need to tighten (maybe loosen?) so that I get more grip when feathering it on... No matter how much I try to feather it right now it just jerks to full on and even moves the little on / off lever. Interesting enough, I can start the mower with the PTO engaged and full choke and mow as normal but doing 180 turns with the roller on full spin is annoying and not very relaxing.
> 
> 
> 
> For the future reader, I fixed this by simply tightening the belt, can feather it in even nicer then before
Click to expand...

@BCliff 
Not sure if you saw my post above yours, but I'm having the exactly same problem with a 220SL. I changed the carb out and it's running better, but need to feather the engagement arm down so it doesn't stall when reel is engaged. I was thinking the opposite that you need to loosen the belts, but you actually tightened them?


----------



## BCliff

gutowscr471 said:


> @BCliff
> Not sure if you saw my post above yours, but I'm having the exactly same problem with a 220SL. I changed the carb out and it's running better, but need to feather the engagement arm down so it doesn't stall when reel is engaged. I was thinking the opposite that you need to loosen the belts, but you actually tightened them?


Yes, somehow the feathering works better when it was super tight. Move your engine or tighten the cable so that it's just at the point of wanting to go without engaging the belts and see if you notice an improvement. It was night and day better for me. You would think that you would be able to achieve the same thing by trying to feather it but it just didn't work and I can't explain why. Hope this helps and let us know if it did!


----------



## Drryantsmith

I recently purchased a JD 180B, and hoping to perform the basic maintenance on it. Can anyone give guidance to how to drain and fill the transmission oil? Thank you!


----------



## claydus

Finally got my old bearings out of my roller. The inside of roller housing was pitted significantly. I was able to sand it down by hand and i got my new bearings installed. I must say the other roller that came with the mower didn't resemble anything like the rollers that come from John Deere. The quality of cut was significantly worse with the different roller.

I have been cutting the lawn for past 2 months with the other roller. Sunday I was able to cut with the John Deere roller and it made a HUGE difference! No more stragglers on the left/right edge of the mower.

I spent $90 on the bearing puller from R&R and i had a friend rent a slide hammer to get both bearing out. Freaking pain in the butt to deal with.


----------



## claydus

Drryantsmith said:


> I recently purchased a JD 180B, and hoping to perform the basic maintenance on it. Can anyone give guidance to how to drain and fill the transmission oil? Thank you!


There is a fill plug (bolt) on top of the gray gear case. I believe this bolt also keeps the engagement lever for reel under some tension. The drain plug is at the bottom rear of the gear case. You will need to tilt the mower back some to drain the gear oil. I don't recall how much oil it takes though.


----------



## Drryantsmith

@claydus thanks! I will take a look when I get home and see if I can figure it out.


----------



## claydus

Drryantsmith said:


> @claydus thanks! I will take a look when I get home and see if I can figure it out.


Here is what the manual states:

I was incorrect in my previous post... bolt Z (on the right) here that attaches a pulley bracket also serves as a fill hole for gear oil.


I have the 180, 220 and 260 manual if you would like a copy.


----------



## Drryantsmith

@claydus thanks again! I did end up finding the manual, but was still unsure of where to fill. That was helpful, so thank you!


----------



## soupy01833

i also need a grass Catcher now. 
Does bm22753 fit a 220E?


----------



## bhutchinson87

soupy01833 said:


> i also need a grass Catcher now.
> Does bm22753 fit a 220E?


Yes, it appears that this is the grass catcher kit number for a 220E according to John Deere and Green Parts Direct. However, I am uncertain that this kit actually comes with the grass catcher itself. I would try and verify that prior to ordering.


----------



## soupy01833

Thanks, Just can't find a used Grass catcher or at a decent price


----------



## BrainBailey

I have a 180B and am looking at bed knifes. I found the previous posts on this thread, but it appears most have a 220 or 260 model, which have more bed knife options. In looking at both R&R products, and the John Deere parts catalog, I was only able to find one model of bed knife for the 180B. Has anyone else been through the same search and can confirm this? My desire was to use a fairway knife, but that does not appear to be an option. Thanks in advance!

Also, if anyone has transport wheels, I might be interested....


----------



## soupy01833

picked up my 220E today. I inspected it about a week ago and all checked out. After I get it home I see the Throttle cable is snapped. It was an easy fix and I believe I have full range of motion from Idle to high. The engine would not really run smotth however and after a few attempts I ordered the amazon Carb as it seemed like carb issues to me. Other than that all seems to work *** expected. May have to adjust the clutch a little although it does work.

I really need a kick stand if I am going to use the wheels as trying to get them on and off is a bitch without it.

Does anyone have a 220E stand lying around they would be willing to part with?


----------



## bhutchinson87

BrainBailey said:


> I have a 180B and am looking at bed knifes. I found the previous posts on this thread, but it appears most have a 220 or 260 model, which have more bed knife options. In looking at both R&R products, and the John Deere parts catalog, I was only able to find one model of bed knife for the 180B. Has anyone else been through the same search and can confirm this? My desire was to use a fairway knife, but that does not appear to be an option. Thanks in advance!
> 
> Also, if anyone has transport wheels, I might be interested....


This is what I found out as well looking through RR and the JD parts catalog. However, the first post in this thread includes a link to a bedknife compatibility chart. One of these options for the 180A/B/C includes the fairway knife that you are looking for which is part number TCU5299. I think the reason this is so hard to find for your 180B is because in the JD Operator's Manual it does not include a fairway knife option under replacement parts.


----------



## Betterthanmyneighbor

Looking at a jd 220b. Hoping for some insight, is it a good unit ?


----------



## BrainBailey

@bhutchinson87 Very helpful, THANK YOU!


----------



## soupy01833

I put my Amazon carb on my 220E today. Made a huge difference and runs great now. no more stuttering and idles very well. I can move it in slow speed now, before I had to run to keep up. Thanks for the great suggestion.

2 questions
1. I have it cutting paper all the way across now but when I engage the blades they just screech to a halt even on the driveway. They spin fine in backlapping mode. Should I just backlap and call it a day?

2. Does this part fit on the 220E? AMT2816? Its a kick stand. I am not sure I need it but if I am going to use the transport wheels I have no other way to get them on and off. also can come in handy when removing the reel mechanism I think.


----------



## Benwag

My 220A will lock up when the reel is engaged, it will propel itself forward and cut like normal but if I go to pull the mower backwards to align myself for a new line it will not budge. The rear roller will not turn at all. It rolls normal when the reel engagement lever is not engaged and everything else seems fine. Anybody delt with this or know what the problem may be?


----------



## BCliff

Benwag said:


> My 220A will lock up when the reel is engaged, it will propel itself forward and cut like normal but if I go to pull the mower backwards to align myself for a new line it will not budge. The rear roller will not turn at all. It rolls normal when the reel engagement lever is not engaged and everything else seems fine. Anybody delt with this or know what the problem may be?


It takes more force to move the reel, GTC, and roller so it could just be slipping, especially if your reel is touching the knife


----------



## LW50

Benwag said:


> My 220A will lock up when the reel is engaged, it will propel itself forward and cut like normal but if I go to pull the mower backwards to align myself for a new line it will not budge. The rear roller will not turn at all. It rolls normal when the reel engagement lever is not engaged and everything else seems fine. Anybody delt with this or know what the problem may be?


My 260C does this, I suspect it's because the combined friction of the driveline and reel/bedknife contact is acting as a brake on the roller when attempting to pull it backwards. I just got this unit and my bedknife has to be pretty tight to the reel to cut paper, so I'm not sure if it's normal or not--but I've got the same problem. I'm interested to see what everyone else has to say.


----------



## Deltahedge

I enjoyed reading through this entire thread. I just bought a 260SL, and will be doing some work on it this winter. This thread will be very handy as I take it apart and put it back together.

It came with a GTC that doesn't work. The outer GTC gear housing is busted up, and most of the gears inside are in pretty bad shape since the outer case was busted, letting in water and grass. Everything else is in pretty decent shape, but I still wouldn't mind taking it apart and looking everything over.


----------



## gutowscr471

jspearm1983 said:


> I enjoyed reading through this entire thread. I just bought a 260SL, and will be doing some work on it this winter. This thread will be very handy as I take it apart and put it back together.
> 
> It came with a GTC that doesn't work. The outer GTC gear housing is busted up, and most of the gears inside are in pretty bad shape since the outer case was busted, letting in water and grass. Everything else is in pretty decent shape, but I still wouldn't mind taking it apart and looking everything over.


I have a 220sl WITHOUT the GTC and very interested in getting one installed. Are you aware of any place to buy one for DIY installation?


----------



## bhutchinson87

gutowscr471 said:


> I have a 220sl WITHOUT the GTC and very interested in getting one installed. Are you aware of any place to buy one for DIY installation?


Sure, you can buy the greens tender conditioner [11] and drive [1] kits new for about $2,200. It's cheaper to try and buy a used mower that already has one on it and take it apart.


----------



## BrainBailey

Does anyone have tips or tricks for replacing the recoil starter cord on a 180? I was working on mine last night, and it looks like I might need to pull the whole stinking engine. I've got to be missing something. I don't think this is an issue on the 220s and higher because the reel/frame is wider.

Apologies if this question has already been asked, I did a search and was not able to find anything.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Drryantsmith

@BrainBailey I had the same problem today with my 180B. My neighbor had a small socket set that barely fit, but worked. I was almost about to take the engine of, so very grateful it worked.


----------



## soupy01833

I have a new to me 2016 -220E. just went through the entire machine and Lubed everything as well as backlapped the reel. Looks nice and sharp and cuts paper all the way across. I started the machine on the kickstand and it runs fine in travel mode. as soon as I engage the blades it bogs down and the engine stalls and dies. I put it in backlap mode and blades spin fine.

I have some ideas as to what it could be but do not know for sure.

Anyone experience this and what was the fix?


----------



## BrainBailey

soupy01833 said:


> I have a new to me 2016 -220E. just went through the entire machine and Lubed everything as well as backlapped the reel. Looks nice and sharp and cuts paper all the way across. I started the machine on the kickstand and it runs fine in travel mode. as soon as I engage the blades it bogs down and the engine stalls and dies. I put it in backlap mode and blades spin fine.
> 
> I have some ideas as to what it could be but do not know for sure.
> 
> Anyone experience this and what was the fix?


Off the top of my head, here's what I would check.

1. Carburetor and fuel system. Steve's Small Engine Saloon on YouTube has a great video on overhauling the Honda carburators. I believe this is the engine you have. Also try flushing the gas if it's old. Or, before tearing into anything, run some liquid mechanic through and that might be all it needs.
2. Belt tension from the engine pulley to the drive pulleys might need to be adjusted.
3. Make sure your parking mechanism and bale release (emergency release) linkages are engaging/disengaging properly. Hit things with WD40.
4. Check your governor screw and make sure it's properly set. At full travel, the engine RPMs should be significantly higher than idle.
5. If you have a GTC, make sure it's off and test again. Could be an issue in that accessory causing excessive load.
6. Make sure your air filter is clean. Test with it off to know for sure.


----------



## BrainBailey

Drryantsmith said:


> @BrainBailey I had the same problem today with my 180B. My neighbor had a small socket set that barely fit, but worked. I was almost about to take the engine of, so very grateful it worked.


Thanks for the tip, now I know I'm not crazy! Was thinking I might try and use a universal joint or crows foot. I've been wanting to add these to my toolbox, so would be a good excuse to buy.


----------



## soupy01833

BrainBailey said:


> soupy01833 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a new to me 2016 -220E. just went through the entire machine and Lubed everything as well as backlapped the reel. Looks nice and sharp and cuts paper all the way across. I started the machine on the kickstand and it runs fine in travel mode. as soon as I engage the blades it bogs down and the engine stalls and dies. I put it in backlap mode and blades spin fine.
> 
> I have some ideas as to what it could be but do not know for sure.
> 
> Anyone experience this and what was the fix?
> 
> 
> 
> Off the top of my head, here's what I would check.
> 
> 1. Carburetor and fuel system. Steve's Small Engine Saloon on YouTube has a great video on overhauling the Honda carburators. I believe this is the engine you have. Also try flushing the gas if it's old. Or, before tearing into anything, run some liquid mechanic through and that might be all it needs.
> 2. Belt tension from the engine pulley to the drive pulleys might need to be adjusted.
> 3. Make sure your parking mechanism and bale release (emergency release) linkages are engaging/disengaging properly. Hit things with WD40.
> 4. Check your governor screw and make sure it's properly set. At full travel, the engine RPMs should be significantly higher than idle.
> 5. If you have a GTC, make sure it's off and test again. Could be an issue in that accessory causing excessive load.
> 6. Make sure your air filter is clean. Test with it off to know for sure.
Click to expand...

I am leaning towards the belt as it sounds like one of the belts is stretched or it was just wet. I changed the carb out a week ago so should be good there


----------



## soupy01833

soupy01833 said:


> BrainBailey said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> soupy01833 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a new to me 2016 -220E. just went through the entire machine and Lubed everything as well as backlapped the reel. Looks nice and sharp and cuts paper all the way across. I started the machine on the kickstand and it runs fine in travel mode. as soon as I engage the blades it bogs down and the engine stalls and dies. I put it in backlap mode and blades spin fine.
> 
> I have some ideas as to what it could be but do not know for sure.
> 
> Anyone experience this and what was the fix?
> 
> 
> 
> Off the top of my head, here's what I would check.
> 
> 1. Carburetor and fuel system. Steve's Small Engine Saloon on YouTube has a great video on overhauling the Honda carburators. I believe this is the engine you have. Also try flushing the gas if it's old. Or, before tearing into anything, run some liquid mechanic through and that might be all it needs.
> 2. Belt tension from the engine pulley to the drive pulleys might need to be adjusted.
> 3. Make sure your parking mechanism and bale release (emergency release) linkages are engaging/disengaging properly. Hit things with WD40.
> 4. Check your governor screw and make sure it's properly set. At full travel, the engine RPMs should be significantly higher than idle.
> 5. If you have a GTC, make sure it's off and test again. Could be an issue in that accessory causing excessive load.
> 6. Make sure your air filter is clean. Test with it off to know for sure.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I am leaning towards the belt as it sounds like one of the belts is stretched or it was just wet. I changed the carb out a week ago so should be good there
Click to expand...

Checked all the belts and they looked good. I took the cutting unit off and setup the reel to bedknife again. Still did not work.

For the heck of it I put the original Honda Carburetor back in that I had thoroughly cleaned and bang it is working great. Apparently the amazon carburetor was not up to snuff even though it sounded and seemed to work great. Now I can turn on the PTO even in idle and the engine keeps going and the reels keep turning. One step at a time I guess.

now the question is do I want to replace the perfectly good 11 blade with a 7 blade since I will be cutting a little higher and most likely will not be until next year. It is too late for HOC adjustment this late in the growing season. I am leaning towards working this out with the 11 blade and take it from there.. The reel is an easy replacement in the 220 E anyway and the JD dealer is 2 miles from me


----------



## BrainBailey

@soupy01833 Glad you were able to figure it out. I was contemplating ordering an Amazon carb because it's hard to argue against the $20. However, when I read the comments on the reviews, other people had the exact issue as you. Thanks for sharing, now I'll know to get the real deal if I consider it again in the future.


----------



## soupy01833

most of the comments I read were positive. It seemed to work and sound fine but apparently does not keep up when Higher load is needed. A thorough cleaning of the original Carburetor was all it needed


----------



## Johnl445

I've been waiting to get a used 220e, a used 220a has become available for a good price, what will I notice between the two? It is a huge difference


----------



## BCliff

Johnl445 said:


> I've been waiting to get a used 220e, a used 220a has become available for a good price, what will I notice between the two? It is a huge difference


E I believe is electric - can change your clip rate and backlap automatically. I own a 220A, if the price is right and not too much rust etc then I would go for it. Does the reel spin nicely and is the machine priced right considering its 20 years old?


----------



## Johnl445

@BCliff tjats helpful feedback, $500 would be fair


----------



## g-man

@soupy01833 check your governor setup. It is hard to adjust without taking the gas tank off.

Also, check if the JD store does golf parts. They became a pain to deal with now. Only some stores will do golf parts. I did a 220E Reno thread, so it has a lot of images of how to do the reel swap. It is not hard if you can change your own brakes on a car. Everything is in weird mm socket sizes (13, 16, 18mm).


----------



## soupy01833

g-man said:


> @soupy01833 check your governor setup. It is hard to adjust without taking the gas tank off.
> 
> Also, check if the JD store does golf parts. They became a pain to deal with now. Only some stores will do golf parts. I did a 220E Reno thread, so it has a lot of images of how to do the reel swap. It is not hard if you can change your own brakes on a car. Everything is in weird mm socket sizes (13, 16, 18mm).


Thanks @g-man i have a jd dealer with greens mower parts only 2 miles from me. Just not sure if I should switch to 7 reel right away or just use the 11 blade for now. It cuts just fine once I cleaned the carb. The reel swap looks relatively easy


----------



## drfous

BrainBailey said:


> Does anyone have tips or tricks for replacing the recoil starter cord on a 180? I was working on mine last night, and it looks like I might need to pull the whole stinking engine. I've got to be missing something. I don't think this is an issue on the 220s and higher because the reel/frame is wider.
> 
> Apologies if this question has already been asked, I did a search and was not able to find anything.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Broke the cord on my 180B the first weekend I had it.

Drilled a hole through the case to get at the bottom bolt on the recoil starter.
:lol:


----------



## BrainBailey

drfous said:


> BrainBailey said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have tips or tricks for replacing the recoil starter cord on a 180? I was working on mine last night, and it looks like I might need to pull the whole stinking engine. I've got to be missing something. I don't think this is an issue on the 220s and higher because the reel/frame is wider.
> 
> Apologies if this question has already been asked, I did a search and was not able to find anything.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> Broke the cord on my 180B the first weekend I had it.
> 
> Drilled a hole through the case to get at the bottom bolt on the recoil starter.
> :lol:
Click to expand...

That's actually pretty brilliant....


----------



## Betterthanmyneighbor

Picked me up a 220b today. Very happy . Thanks to everyone for all the information, I feel like I went from a hand me down scooter with square wheels to a fully loaded Cadillac, my dog even wanted a picture with it, The wife not so much lol. Light works, freshly sharpened and came with HOC guage and catcher. Seriously though, this is like being a new father lol. I'm sure I will have plenty of questions soon.


----------



## BCliff

Betterthanmyneighbor said:


> Picked me up a 220b today. Very happy . Thanks to everyone for all the information, I feel like I went from a hand me down scooter with square wheels to a fully loaded Cadillac, my dog even wanted a picture with it, The wife not so much lol. Light works, freshly sharpened and came with HOC guage and catcher. Seriously though, this is like being a new father lol. I'm sure I will have plenty of questions soon.


Congrats! Machine looks great and what a bonus getting the gauge.


----------



## Betterthanmyneighbor

Thanks, I was pretty happy to get the guage. Sooo much easier.

Congrats! Machine looks great and what a bonus getting the gauge.
[/quote]


----------



## Longtee81

soupy01833 said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> @soupy01833 check your governor setup. It is hard to adjust without taking the gas tank off.
> 
> Also, check if the JD store does golf parts. They became a pain to deal with now. Only some stores will do golf parts. I did a 220E Reno thread, so it has a lot of images of how to do the reel swap. It is not hard if you can change your own brakes on a car. Everything is in weird mm socket sizes (13, 16, 18mm).
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks @g-man i have a jd dealer with greens mower parts only 2 miles from me. Just not sure if I should switch to 7 reel right away or just use the 11 blade for now. It cuts just fine once I cleaned the carb. The reel swap looks relatively easy
Click to expand...

I own two 220E's, one has a 7 blade (with FTC) and the other has an 11 blade (no FTC or GTC). I've lately been using the 11 blade and would be hard pressed to notice a big difference at 1". When I purchased my first reel mower last fall, I was certain, I would be letting it grow out i the summer, but I was able to keep there for the entire summer without a huge difference in watering, etc.

If you set it to the lowest FOC (Setting 5 - see pic) you will get the following FOC.

11 Blade - .48 inches
7 Blade - .75 inches

They say the correct number should be close to the HOC to get the optimum cut quality.
These FOC numbers are super low compared to all others outside of the E series.

For comparison, the 220 or 260SL FOC's are as follows:

11 Blade - .18 inches
7 Blade - .29 inches

If you look at the image from the FOC adjust on the 220E, the other mowers are always at a FOC setting that would be similar to (2) on the 220E. You have the bonus of being able to slow the FOC way down - settings (3), (4) and (5), which will allow for a great result even with the 11-blade reel. I would stick with the 11 until you get a feel for your yard, etc. and consider moving to the 7 down the road.

The reel swap on the 220e is very easy! I ran into a few issues (I'm not mechanical at all), but I had some help from others on this forum


----------



## soupy01833

Longtee81 said:


> soupy01833 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> @soupy01833 check your governor setup. It is hard to adjust without taking the gas tank off.
> 
> Also, check if the JD store does golf parts. They became a pain to deal with now. Only some stores will do golf parts. I did a 220E Reno thread, so it has a lot of images of how to do the reel swap. It is not hard if you can change your own brakes on a car. Everything is in weird mm socket sizes (13, 16, 18mm).
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks @g-man i have a jd dealer with greens mower parts only 2 miles from me. Just not sure if I should switch to 7 reel right away or just use the 11 blade for now. It cuts just fine once I cleaned the carb. The reel swap looks relatively easy
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I own two 220E's, one has a 7 blade (with FTC) and the other has an 11 blade (no FTC or GTC). I've lately been using the 11 blade and would be hard pressed to notice a big difference at 1". When I purchased my first reel mower last fall, I was certain, I would be letting it grow out i the summer, but I was able to keep there for the entire summer without a huge difference in watering, etc.
> 
> If you set it to the lowest FOC (Setting 5 - see pic) you will get the following FOC.
> 
> 11 Blade - .48 inches
> 7 Blade - .75 inches
> 
> They say the correct number should be close to the HOC to get the optimum cut quality.
> These FOC numbers are super low compared to all others outside of the E series.
> 
> For comparison, the 220 or 260SL FOC's are as follows:
> 
> 11 Blade - .18 inches
> 7 Blade - .29 inches
> 
> If you look at the image from the FOC adjust on the 220E, the other mowers are always at a FOC setting that would be similar to (2) on the 220E. You have the bonus of being able to slow the FOC way down - settings (3), (4) and (5), which will allow for a great result even with the 11-blade reel. I would stick with the 11 until you get a feel for your yard, etc. and consider moving to the 7 down the road.
> 
> The reel swap on the 220e is very easy! I ran into a few issues (I'm not mechanical at all), but I had some help from others on this forum
Click to expand...

Thank you. I will stay with the 11 blade for now and see how it goes.


----------



## BCliff

Do you guys use the GTC at all? Specifically on KBG? Any thoughts? I'm currently getting too many stragglers and was wondering if engaging it would help.

I think the stragglers are mostly due to inadequate sun these past couple weeks..been a lot of rain and cloud cover, grass is almost too lanky or weak to stand up enough for the reel.


----------



## BrainBailey

BCliff said:


> Do you guys use the GTC at all? Specifically on KBG? Any thoughts? I'm currently getting too many stragglers and was wondering if engaging it would help.
> 
> I think the stragglers are mostly due to inadequate sun these past couple weeks..been a lot of rain and cloud cover, grass is almost too lanky or weak to stand up enough for the reel.


I haven't used mine, but was warned by the previous owner to be careful as it is very aggressive. Need to consider the knives you're using, the spacing of said knives, and the height at which the GTC is set. The unit, especially with the more agressive knives installed, is designed to cut stolons and rhizomes on bentgrass and similar. As such, if not careful, it can really put a beating on your turf.


----------



## g-man

I use mine all the time. I have the aggressive knifes, but at double the spacing. Because of the hoc of 3/4in, they dont go too deep into the turf. It doesnt help with stragglers.


----------



## BrainBailey

g-man said:


> I use mine all the time. I have the aggressive knifes, but at double the spacing. Because of the hoc of 3/4in, they dont go too deep into the turf. It doesnt help with stragglers.


@g-man How often are you using and what height are you set at? I was thinking of halving the the knives on mine, like you've done, and setting height to only just penetrate the turf surface. Would love to learn more about your setup and results.


----------



## g-man

It is always on. I use it every time I mow. I'm at 22mm hoc and the knife is at around 12mm. But the spring is very weak at this lenght, so it bounces up.

To me on KBG, it acts like a comb since the grass is soft (compared to Bermuda).


----------



## BrainBailey

@g-man Hopefully my math is right, so you're setting the actual knives to ride ~1/2 inch from the turf surface?


----------



## g-man

Yes. 12mm = 0.47in


----------



## mha2345

Had some surging in my 220SL recently so decided to change out the carb with a cheap one from amazon. Ran fine the first day, but today I started having surging again and some white smoke, so I am going to attempt to change out the air filter and change the oil next. Just to be sure, it looks like the replacement I need is the air cleaner + filter element right?


----------



## BrainBailey

@mha2345 Be careful with the amazon carbs. Some people have had good success. Others have not. I would suggest a thorough cleaning of your OEM carb as opposed to full replacement. There's great videos on how to do so online (Steve's Small Engine Saloon). You can get a parts cleaner pale with basket for ~$20 (Gunk), and it will do wonders on even the dirtiest of carbs. Additionally, I would also recommend either Sea Foam or Lucas Liquid Tune Up. I used the Lucas product recently on my GX120 engine and it helped the engine run a bit smoother, even after I fully rebuilt the carburetor.


----------



## MrSmith

Bought my 260C last year, never had any issue with it.

This spring, I took it out of storage (used ethanol-free gas last year and drained the carb) and there have been nothing but problems.

The motor:
- Will not run off choke.
- Surges constantly.
- Will not run below 3,000 RPM without stalling (even fully choked)

I bought a new eBay carb. Installed without a hitch, having the same exact issues. Adjusted the governor as well. No dice.

At this point, _I have decided to install a new motor_.

I recently learned that Harbor Freight has done an excellent job knocking off the GX series of horizontal shaft engines. Considering how reliable the motor on my Harbor Freight Predator generator has been, it's worth a shot.

There is tons of great info here on the forum (I have lurked for over a year), but I don't recall seeing details on how to do an engine swap.

Thanks in advance for any guidance you may be able to provide.

Looking forward to reporting back with what I have learned after I get it done.


----------



## mha2345

BrainBailey said:


> @mha2345 Be careful with the amazon carbs. Some people have had good success. Others have not. I would suggest a thorough cleaning of your OEM carb as opposed to full replacement. There's great videos on how to do so online (Steve's Small Engine Saloon). You can get a parts cleaner pale with basket for ~$20 (Gunk), and it will do wonders on even the dirtiest of carbs. Additionally, I would also recommend either Sea Foam or Lucas Liquid Tune Up. I used the Lucas product recently on my GX120 engine and it helped the engine run a bit smoother, even after I fully rebuilt the carburetor.


Ah a bit late for that. I think I can order an OEM carb for around $30 from trigreen. I'll see what happens after I change the filter and do that if needed.


----------



## g-man

@MrSmith an engine swap sounds extreme. Did you check the fuel feeding/float?


----------



## BrainBailey

^+1 I agree with @g-man. That sounds like a fuel issue for sure. Even if you don't want to tear into the carb, I'd at least try sea foam first. If it helps, you know your engine is likely salvageable.


----------



## soupy01833

I fixed my carb issues by cleaning the carb. Tore it apart cleaned everything and put it back together. Runs great now and starts in first pull. I really think it was the idle valve or whatever it's called as I tried to clean the main needle first with little help


----------



## BrainBailey

@soupy01833 Didn't you try an Amazon carb as well and it failed almost immediately?


----------



## soupy01833

It seemed to work but did not have any power when I engaged the reel. The original carb was much better once cleaned. It definitely has helped me learn and be comfortable doing my own repairs


----------



## BCliff

MrSmith said:


> Bought my 260C last year, never had any issue with it.
> 
> This spring, I took it out of storage (used ethanol-free gas last year and drained the carb) and there have been nothing but problems.
> 
> The motor:
> - Will not run off choke.
> - Surges constantly.
> - Will not run below 3,000 RPM without stalling (even fully choked)
> 
> I bought a new eBay carb. Installed without a hitch, having the same exact issues. Adjusted the governor as well. No dice.
> 
> At this point, _I have decided to install a new motor_.
> 
> I recently learned that Harbor Freight has done an excellent job knocking off the GX series of horizontal shaft engines. Considering how reliable the motor on my Harbor Freight Predator generator has been, it's worth a shot.
> 
> There is tons of great info here on the forum (I have lurked for over a year), but I don't recall seeing details on how to do an engine swap.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any guidance you may be able to provide.
> 
> Looking forward to reporting back with what I have learned after I get it done.


Not sure about the 260c but my engine is a gx120, the 120 is not the same as the predator 212cc (predator is bigger) the issue with this is not shaft size or engine mounting but rather the gx120 is equipped with I believe a 6:1 reduction case which you can't just bolt onto your new Pred engine...my options in Canada are less but if you search Home Depot for 6:1 reduction engine you should find some engines that work, you want a shaft smaller the 3/4, 5/8ths I believe. Check online or harbour freight as well. Replacing the engine should be pretty easy assuming the 260 is the same as my 220a.
I'm also only assuming it's a 6:1 reduction, perhaps someone else knows for sure. You could take off the side gear case and measure the gears to confirm it's 6:1 and not 2:1 etc.


----------



## MrSmith

Thanks for the info.

Can anyone confirm that the factory GX120s on the Deere reel mowers are indeed 6:1 reduction?

I see the GX120 for sale in both standard and 6:1. The 6:1 nearly almost says "for cement mixers" under "application."

There is another thread on this forum where a member replaced a reel mower engine with a Predator. And the original was a Briggs, not a Honda which the Predator is a clone of.

Engine specs on p.17 of the manual linked from the first post on this thread also do not mention gear reduction. Wouldn't put it past them, but leaving that info our would be less than competent.

Removing the existing engine was not a big deal. I plan to get the old motor running at some point. New Honda carbs are available <$40 from numerous retailers. I'd also like to tear apart the original.

But for now, getting it up and running ASAP is the priority. The factory engine came out really easy. I have confirmed the the mounting holes, shaft length, clearances, etc for the Predator 212 are the same as the GX120.


----------



## BCliff

MrSmith said:


> Thanks for the info.
> 
> Can anyone confirm that the factory GX120s on the Deere reel mowers are indeed 6:1 reduction?
> 
> I see the GX120 for sale in both standard and 6:1. The 6:1 nearly almost says "for cement mixers" under "application."
> 
> There is another thread on this forum where a member replaced a reel mower engine with a Predator. And the original was a Briggs, not a Honda which the Predator is a clone of.
> 
> Removing the existing engine was not a big deal. I plan to get the old motor running at some point. New Honda carbs are available <$40 from numerous retailers. I'd also like to tear apart the original.
> 
> But for now, getting it up and running ASAP is the priority. The factory engine came out really easy. I have confirmed the the mounting holes, shaft length, clearances, etc for the Predator 212 are the same as the GX120.


Shaft position is different though correct? I.e the 6:1 pushes it back a couple inches? This is the case on the 220a.

Can you buy a gx120 with a 2:1 (does that model exist ?) or only 6:1..might be your answer.

I do agree those cheap engines are great in my experience. Carb for 30$ or a whole engine for 90$.

We're you able to source a 6:1 ?They do sell for a little more, when I looked It was triple the cost of a regular straight shaft.


----------



## MrSmith

> Can you buy a gx120 with a 2:1 (does that model exist ?) or only 6:1..might be your answer.


Most positively.

Regular (GX120K1QX2):
https://www.sprayerdepot.com/products/4-hp-honda-engine

6:1 (GX120K1HX2):
https://www.sprayerdepot.com/products/4-hp-honda-engine-w-gear-reducer

There are actually a whole bunch of different variants:
https://engines.honda.com/models/model-detail/mid-gx#PTO


----------



## BCliff

You could take the side case /shield off of your gx120 (going to leak oil) and measure the gears.

Also does it look like a straight shaft or does it appear to be some sort of case attached to side? Maybe on the "c" versions they did the a regular engine and left the JD to do the conversion,,, you will also just notice as soon as you line up the pred engine the pulley / belt system will not fit since shaft position is off...it's how I found out... again I'm assuming the C is the same as the A.


----------



## soupy01833

I wanted to thank whomever suggested removing bed knife screws with a punch. I was able to remove 11 with an impact driver but that last 2 were being stubborn. I thought i was going to have to drill them out as they were at a point where the slot was almost gone. Bought a $5 punch at ace hardware and with a hammer at 45 degree angle or so was able to coax them out.

Still contemplating on changing the 11 blade to a 7 blade as my local HD dealer has them for $244. My 11 blade has plenty of life left according to my calculation the reel is 4.9 inches in diameter. My only problem is looks like there is no relief grind just a spin grind from the research I have done.
do new reels come with the relief grind already there? I am not sure how much the dealer would charge to grind my 11 blade but if it is not needed on a new reel it might be worth it to just go new at this point


----------



## jhealy748

I had to use a punch for almost every bedknife screw I removed on all 5 of my reels too! I replaced them with the rr HD 7 blade and they did have a relief grind on them if that helps. Not 100% sure they are the same reel but I would think they would sell all of them the same at least from rr.


----------



## soupy01833

thank you @jhealy748


----------



## g-man

New reels have a relief. Check with your dealer if they can do a relief grind to the reel. A 4.9in has plenty of life, but consider your costs. A relief grind can be $125. But if you can get a new for $244, add $50 for seals/bearings, then I would consider the new reel.


----------



## soupy01833

I can only assume this is not a relief grind

My Local JD dealer only does spin grinds. they charge $240(ouch). he did say they run a November special that reduces this to about $120. I may be better off with the new reel anyways it seems.


----------



## MrSmith

Ok, I've got the motor issue figured out. The motor is _not_ gear reduction. But the Harbor Freight Predator will not fit for another reason.

I figured this out when the 3/4 inch crankshaft on my Predator was too large to fit my pulley. I took out the micrometer and measured the original shaft. Turns out to be 18 mm.

The 6:1 gear reduction GX120 (L Type) is only sold with a 3/4 inch crankshaft, so it's safe to say that the motor is not gear reduction.

The correct engine is almost certainly the S Type, which is the only variant sold with an 18mm crankshaft.

Different models are on the left side, about halfway down the page:
https://engines.honda.com/models/model-detail/mid-gx


----------



## MrSmith

I ended up changing out the fuel filter and fuel line.

Now instead of stalling when off-choke, the engine goes ballistic high RPM out of control. I have to shut it down immediately due to fear or damage.

I had previously adjusted the governor as per the video earlier in the thread. Just to be sure, I removed the governor spring and moved the lever both ways in either direction. Couldn't get the engine to slow down.

I had an experienced auto mechanic tell me that it sounds like the carb is "sucking air" due to a base gasket issue.

I think that it may be a gasket issue. I'm having trouble figuring out which of the three gaskets go where. Not sure which is the insulator gasket.


----------



## BrainBailey

@MrSmith As previously suggested, I strongly advise you tear the carb apart and do a thorough cleaning and rebuild. It's actually quite easy and enjoyable, and there's a plethora of videos online that show you step by step.


----------



## JoeMcD

MrSmith said:


> Bought my 260C last year, never had any issue with it.
> 
> This spring, I took it out of storage (used ethanol-free gas last year and drained the carb) and there have been nothing but problems.
> 
> The motor:
> - Will not run off choke.
> - Surges constantly.
> - Will not run below 3,000 RPM without stalling (even fully choked)
> 
> I bought a new eBay carb. Installed without a hitch, having the same exact issues. Adjusted the governor as well. No dice.
> 
> At this point, _I have decided to install a new motor_.
> 
> I recently learned that Harbor Freight has done an excellent job knocking off the GX series of horizontal shaft engines. Considering how reliable the motor on my Harbor Freight Predator generator has been, it's worth a shot.
> 
> There is tons of great info here on the forum (I have lurked for over a year), but I don't recall seeing details on how to do an engine swap.
> 
> Thanks in advance for any guidance you may be able to provide.
> 
> Looking forward to reporting back with what I have learned after I get it done.


Buddy order you an OEM carb, and two new springs, a governor spring and linkage spring, I had the same problem and I went thru two knockoff carbs then bought an OEM one and it ran fine directly after install, the Chinese knockoffs are straight junk carbs,


----------



## MrSmith

BrainBailey said:


> @MrSmith As previously suggested, I strongly advise you tear the carb apart and do a thorough cleaning and rebuild. It's actually quite easy and enjoyable, and there's a plethora of videos online that show you step by step.


No question. It will be a good learning experience.

But not now. I need to get it up and running ASAP to cut low before overseeding.

After messing with the gaskets, I got it running pretty close with the Amazon carb.. It's idling at factory spec off choke now. Pretty sure that it's an issue with the governor and fast idle stop.

I know the owner of a mower repair shop pretty well. I'm going to bring it by tomorrow and throw him a $20 spot to help me get the governor and idle adjusted. Much easier since I've take the engine off the mower.

Related note: I'm not even sure that the original carb is factory, as I bought used.

I just sprayed down the exterior of the original carb with commercial degreaser. The initial cleanup revealed a logo from a company other than Honda. I need to look at it in better light tomorrow. That said, it's possible that Honda uses a subcontractor for the factory carbs. Will keep everyone posted.


----------



## MrSmith

JoeMcD said:


> Buddy order you an OEM carb, and two new springs, a governor spring and linkage spring, I had the same problem and I went thru two knockoff carbs then bought an OEM one and it ran fine directly after install, the Chinese knockoffs are straight junk carbs,


Agree 100%. Any suggestions on where to source the original parts at a fair price?


----------



## soupy01833

It is 29 at my local jd dealer.


----------



## BrainBailey

@MrSmith As you noted, the OEM carb won't read Honda. To the best of my knowledge, Honda sources them from Keihin. If it has that logo, you're good to go if you want to try a rebuild.


----------



## BrainBailey

@g-man Pertaining to the height of cut you're running on your JD... I'm running mine at a very similar height (about 0.80 inches). I've noticed that the mower leaves a lot of stragglers and isn't as clean as it could be on the first pass. I can resolve this with further passes, but am curious if it's my mower specifically, or just a typical issue when HOC is set so high. Bed knife is brand new, reel freshly sharpened, cuts paper cleanly the entire way across, and unit is running smooth.


----------



## JoeMcD

MrSmith said:


> JoeMcD said:
> 
> 
> 
> Buddy order you an OEM carb, and two new springs, a governor spring and linkage spring, I had the same problem and I went thru two knockoff carbs then bought an OEM one and it ran fine directly after install, the Chinese knockoffs are straight junk carbs,
> 
> 
> 
> Agree 100%. Any suggestions on where to source the original parts at a fair price?
Click to expand...

http://www.nrracing.com/category-s/3034.htm

I ordered mine from this place,


----------



## JoeMcD

The OEM carb won't say Honda on it, the picture that's posted with Japan wrote on it is the OEM unit,


----------



## g-man

@BrainBailey how often are you mowing? How many blades in the reel? How long are the stragglers?

When the reel is turning, the grass needs to fit between the blades. When there are too many blades or the reel is moving too fast or slow, it is not going to catch them all. Options, reduce the number of blades, increase how often you mow or start doing pgr.


----------



## BCliff

MrSmith said:


> Ok, I've got the motor issue figured out. The motor is _not_ gear reduction. But the Harbor Freight Predator will not fit for another reason.
> 
> I figured this out when the 3/4 inch crankshaft on my Predator was too large to fit my pulley. I took out the micrometer and measured the original shaft. Turns out to be 18 mm.
> 
> The 6:1 gear reduction GX120 (L Type) is only sold with a 3/4 inch crankshaft, so it's safe to say that the motor is not gear reduction.
> 
> The correct engine is almost certainly the S Type, which is the only variant sold with an 18mm crankshaft.
> 
> Different models are on the left side, about halfway down the page:
> https://engines.honda.com/models/model-detail/mid-gx


My shaft is also not 3/4" ( I took a 3/4" bit and drilled my pulley, luckily stopped just in time to keep half of the pulley at OE thickness when I realized my replacement engine wouldn't fit) but my engine is also not the s type as that is straight shaft... there is defiantly a reduction of some sort or something going on as else the shaft position wouldn't be offset sideways from where the shaft normally is.

I just looked and the 220c looks like it is straight shaft and the 220a isn't.

You could get a 3/4" drill bit and just ream it out...not the most fun but doable.


----------



## BrainBailey

@g-man The reel is stock (11 or 14?) will have to count. I mow roughly every other day. I'll look into a different reel over the winter. I guess my thoughts were more around the fact that the unit is operating at a max condition. Although it can do 0.80, that doesn't mean it's designed to operate its best there. However, does not sound like you have any issues.


----------



## MrSmith

You could get a 3/4" drill bit and just ream it out...not the most fun but doable.
[/quote]

This is an interesting thought.

I'm going to hit up the dealer for a new factory carb and springs (I think that worn springs may also have something to do with my issue). Perhaps I'll get a second pulley for experimentation purposes if the price is right. Doubt it, tho as Weingartz lists it for $147.84.


----------



## g-man

@BrainBailey I have a 220E. The 220E uses an electric motor that can regulate the speed of the reel to get the foc match the hoc. I also have a 7 blade reel.

But even with all of that, if I let it go too long, I get stragglers.


----------



## soupy01833

I ended up buying the new reel with new seals bearings and cups. I added a new spring just in case. The only thing I did not buy is the c clips as they should be fine to reuse. Total including tax was $300. not bad considering a spin grind was going to cost me 240. It looks easy enough to replace and will be ready to go for the 2021 season.

Part Number	Manufacturer	Description Quantity	
JD8226 JOHNDEER	Bearing Cup 2	
JD8188 JOHNDEER	Bearing Cone 2	
TCA19350	 JOHNDEER	Mower Reel 1	
ET14566 JOHNDEER	Seal 2	
TCU28964	JOHNDEER	Compression Spring 1


----------



## Jbird95

A friend of mine has a 220SL w 200hrs and will sell to me for $2200. I just checked it out and it looks virtually unused. Should I jump on this?


----------



## soupy01833

What year?


----------



## Jbird95

@soupy01833 
2016


----------



## soupy01833

That is pretty good imho. You can get them for less but most of the time you have to put time and money into them. Big key. Life of reel? I assume it is good? Does it cut paper all the way across the bed knife? Does the engine purr in idle and high speed?


----------



## Jbird95

I'd say 80% reel is left, cuts paper and has groomer and light kit. Honda engine is strong, no smoking and surprisingly quiet


----------



## soupy01833

groomer makes it even better i would say go for it. if you want to be fair offer him 2k


----------



## soupy01833

Old reel is out. Before I replace the bearings I can only assume you pack them with the John Deere Special Purpose Golf and Turf Cutting Unit Grease. The same grease that goes through the fittings. My logic says yes but the service manual does not quite cover this.

Also the right side bearing seems really loose with just the c clip. Is that normal. Seal and race seem to be installed correctly. The left side with the wave washer is nice and tight. I suppose the reel will tighten it up but it makes no sense


----------



## AllisonN

Anyone bought a R&R products reel from them? Does it have a relief grind on it? 7 blade


----------



## soupy01833

My dealer has them cheaper. I just installed it. Not sure what shipping would be as I live 2 miles away 
244 and has relief grind

https://www.revelstractor.com/?utm_source=gmb&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=fuquayvarina


----------



## AllisonN

I use Greenville turf but it was $331. For AMT2903. Just didn't know if anyone dealt with the quality of R&R products as it's really only a $60 buck difference.


----------



## soupy01833

Yeah I have a 220e so may be different of course


----------



## cnet24

220E mowers- how do they handle scalping? I've yet to scalp with my mower but noticed the reel struggling sometimes in thick grass.


----------



## soupy01833

I have not tried yet as I am starting reel mowing next spring. I think it will be an issue as the electric mower just cannot handle cutting a lot off. I plan on scaling with my rotary to 1 inch then go lower with 220e. Maybe someone else can comment on this


----------



## cnet24

Thanks @soupy01833. I'm talking about going from 0.5" to around .25"


----------



## soupy01833

Yeah I am going to try and go from 2 inches this year to about 3/4 next year. First year with 220e. I see no reason why you can't do what you want as long as you are level


----------



## kay7711226

Found this locally and considering it. Asking $650
https://albany.craigslist.org/grd/d/mechanicville-greens-mower/7199973604.html

"John Deere 220A Greens Mower. Recently serviced and ready to mow. We used this at our small par 3 golf course, which is now a foot golf course. We no longer need this mower. Runs great."

Need help with 
- Questions to ask
- How much its worth
- How much will it cost if I have to put in some work(I'm pretty handy and can do lot by myself)
- What else to consider


----------



## g-man

While it says it was recently serviced, I don't think it was. First, the reel has no shine to the edge (sitting for a while). The grease ports look dry (no recent grease). The right hoc knob looks broken. A reel with fewer blade would be better for a higher hoc lawn.

As winter approaches, they might be more motivated to sell it at a lower price instead of storing it.


----------



## soupy01833

why is it different than the pictures in the ad?


----------



## kay7711226

Indeed, I pointed out to him that it's clearly 2 different units based on craigslist and the pictures he sent. One of my buddies will check it out tomorrow for me see how it runs and if it cuts at all. What's the easiest way of determining the cutting unit life expectancy? Best I can find is to do the string check and measuring the circumference(not sure if this only applies to the Toro's) However I'm think best offer no more than 300 "IF" I can even put some minor rebuild into it? G-man good catch! I'm going for a 1'' or lower cut on the newly reno area. This will not be used anywhere else in the lawn(unless I can find something with cutting height sub 0.5'' and max 2''?


----------



## g-man

A new JD reel is 5in diameter. Replace at 4.5 diameter


----------



## soupy01833

when they post better pictures than it is I walk away. seems sketchy to me


----------



## BrainBailey

I agree with the others. I'd approach this one cautiously. If you do pick it up, let me know if you need transport wheels. I have a set of "A"s that deserve a good TLF home.


----------



## Deltahedge

For those of you who have purchased the generic throttle and governor linkage (1 rod and two springs) from amazon, did you notice the governor spring being far longer than needed? Should I put an intentional kink in the straight part of the spring to shorten its overall length?

Here's what I bought. Perhaps I ordered the wrong thing?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079JNLHMB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## BrainBailey

@jspearm1983 In this scenario, I would straighten out the spring hook with a pair of pliers, feed through the throttle body, and then bend where you think the length should be. Start the engine up and play with the throttle to see where it lands. Correct the length by re-feeding and re-bending until you find the correct length. Once there, snip the access with wire snips, and make yourself a new hook with the pliers.


----------



## Deltahedge

TonyC said:


> Brackin4au said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 717driver said:
> 
> 
> 
> Use the throttle to control the speed. The drive clutch is exactly how you describe it, either all on or all off. You can feather it a little if you need to get it going carefully. I thought my 220A was insanely fast, even at low idle, but now I think my Honda is too slow when I use it... just got used to it, I suppose. :bandit:
> 
> 
> 
> +1. I run mine about 3/4 throttle and feather the drive lever so it doesn't just take off instantly. I feel the same way about my old rotary now ha. I used it to clean up some seedheads and felt like I was pushing it to go faster even though it's self propelled.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @Gdfein, sounds like you need to check the throttle cable travel. The cable should have enough throw to go from idle to full power. You should have about an inch of throttle lever travel, maybe a little more. When you push the lever forward, it pulls the throttle cable.
> 
> Remove your air filter and take a look at the throttle cable linkage. Here are two pictures (idle & full throttle) from my 180SL.
> 
> If your engine only runs at a high speed, you need to adjust and move the black cable jacket to the RIGHT (see top picture). Loosen the screw in the left red circle and move the black jacket to the RIGHT. This will give you more travel to the low range. Tighten and check travel.
> 
> If the engine still will not idle down, then you need to pull the operator throttle back all the way, and then adjust the cable attachment in the right circle. Loosen the screw, rotate the throttle linkage counter clockwise and retighten the screw..
> 
> If the engine will not throttle up to full speed, you need to adjust the cable to the LEFT for more travel, or back out the high speed linkage stop screw (red circle in second picture). I don't think you need to mess with this in your situation.
> 
> *IDLE POSITION*
> 
> 
> 
> *FULL THROTTLE POSITION*
Click to expand...

Sorry to bump a very old post, but maybe me asking dumb questions will help someone in the future. What makes the carburetor go back to idle?

I understand when I push the throttle lever down, it pulls the throttle cable where the cable attaches to the throttle linkage. The throttle linkage has a spring attached to it that then pulls the governor arm. The governor arm has a rod (the rod that is surrounded by the spring). As the governor arm and spring surrounded rod are pulled, this open up the carb allowing more air to flow. I get all that, at least that how I understand that to work.

The part I don't understand is taking the throttle back down to idle. I move the lever, It pushes more throttle cable out. The throttle cable is attached to the throttle linkage plate. The throttle linkage is connected to the governor with a spring made for pulling. The spring is meant to pull the governor arm closer to the carb, but how does that spring push the governor arm away from the carb to idle down after full throttle?

EDIT:
I found the answer on a mechanic forum, which I'll link here if that's allowed.
https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/69562/what-closes-the-throttle-on-a-honda-gx120

"The answer is, essentially, that the governor closes the throttle. The faster the engine goes, the more the governor tries to close the throttle. A governed engine is relatively throttle-open when the engine is off. As soon as the engine is started and spinning under its own power the governor internals are being spun too. A governed engine operates on the concept of a fight between the throttle cable trying to open the throttle and the governor trying to close the throttle. When the engine is placed under load, it slows down, giving the governor less ability to win the fight, opening the throttle more. This counteracts the load by applying more throttle, restoring the balance"


----------



## BrainBailey

@jspearm1983 The governor works on flyweights. When the engine is speeding up, the flyweights spring out. When engine speed comes down, flyweights retract in. The governor linkage moves based on the flyweights, which react to the engine RPM. The governor spring doesn't do any pushing.

"A mechanical governor uses flyweights to create a force based off of crankshaft speed which is balanced by the force of the governor spring. The top engine speed is varied by increasing the spring force to run faster or decreasing the force to run slower. The governor spring wants to open the throttle and the governor tries to close the throttle. The interaction of the governor spring and mechanical governor holds the throttle at the desired engine rpms based upon a force balance and the load / operating conditions."


----------



## joeker

Does anyone have a step by step guide on how to replace the reel on a 220-E QA5 cutting unit? Looking to replace my reel this winter.


----------



## BCliff

@joeker You can search for the technical manual online, I was able to find this site which has them for free.

http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual I see the 220 E listed there


----------



## g-man

@joeker

JD 220E Rebuild


----------



## BCliff

g-man said:


> @joeker
> 
> JD 220E Rebuild


@g-man I just read this thread, I noticed you got a fresh grind on your new reel and bed knife, do you have to do this? Do the reels / bed knife not come how they should from JD or R&R? I have heard about lapping them when you first get them to mate the reel and bed knife but wasn't aware about grinding.


----------



## g-man

@BCliff I was using an used reel to swap from a 14 blade to 7 blade. The new reels are ready to use after a backslap.


----------



## soupy01833

I just swapped to a brand new 7 blade reel. it was somewhat easy if you have any mechanical skills at all. I followed the John Deere service manual which does have step by step instructions. New bed knife as well. I have not *********** yet since I will not be using the mower until next season. It does cut paper even without that done so it is pretty sharp.


----------



## BCliff

Thanks for the info.

When I got my used 220A it couldn't cut paper at all, I couldn't find lapping compound for the life of me (hint check John Deere dealer!) I tried using some valve compound and still nothing, finally gave up and found a guy who would sharpen the reel for 50$, got a new knife for 60$. The sharpening service told me the edge of the reel was more worn down at the tip essentially making the edge round. Cuts paper beautifully now...

fast forward to the 2500 I just got and it can't cut paper at all, it manages to cut (pinch and tear?) grass but I feel like it's the same issue, when I look it almost looks like the middle of the reel edge will contact the blade and not the tip.


----------



## soupy01833

If it does not have a relief grind ************ does very little to help. If it has just a spin grind then the only way to truly sharpen them is by either having someone sharpen and add a relief grind or by doing another spin grind


----------



## kay7711226

Picked this up today(under the mercy of the Mrs. for the rest of my life! ) got if from a golf course, runs on first pull, cuts ok but was sitting for the season since they got some newer mowers. Inspected it as much as I can from what I have read on here, No grass catcher, transport wheels, head lamp works, 11 blade Reel, measures ~37.5cm -37.75cm(almost EOL?) Cutting height now set to 3/8 I want to cut at max 7/8. Some cosmetic damages, some dirt/grease build up(good Idea to try clean up? saw a youtube vid using motorcycle cleaner good/bad idea?
Adjusted the reel to bed knife after transporting, the locking bolts was loose on the right side, cuts paper! A little rough sounding spinning the reels manually maybe because of the rust build up on the bed knife? Should I try removing and cleaning it up? 
Anything else need to check before I give it a run at 7/8? | Mowed yesterday with manual reel at 1" too soon to go down to 7/8?


----------



## soupy01833

If you are going to remove the bedknife might as well just replace it. they are not expensive.


----------



## kay7711226

soupy01833 said:


> If you are going to remove the bedknife might as well just replace it. they are not expensive.


Agreed, however will most likely do any repairs/replacement during the off-season, want to get a "at the moment" feel how it's cutting on my lawn and what needs attention/replacement....just don't want to jump the gun and do something dumb :roll:


----------



## soupy01833

I did all my fixes but never reel mowed this year so HOC cuts wiill be next year
you will not get a good feel unless you have that reel ground. should have asked the golf course to do it before you bought it

I am itching to cut the lawn but the bermuda is just about done growing this season.

That roller looks brand new.


----------



## BCliff

kay7711226 said:


> Picked this up today(under the mercy of the Mrs. for the rest of my life! ) got if from a golf course, runs on first pull, cuts ok but was sitting for the season since they got some newer mowers. Inspected it as much as I can from what I have read on here, No grass catcher, transport wheels, head lamp works, 11 blade Reel, measures ~37.5cm -37.75cm(almost EOL?) Cutting height now set to 3/8 I want to cut at max 7/8. Some cosmetic damages, some dirt/grease build up(good Idea to try clean up? saw a youtube vid using motorcycle cleaner good/bad idea?
> Adjusted the reel to bed knife after transporting, the locking bolts was loose on the right side, cuts paper! A little rough sounding spinning the reels manually maybe because of the rust build up on the bed knife? Should I try removing and cleaning it up?
> Anything else need to check before I give it a run at 7/8? | Mowed yesterday with manual reel at 1" too soon to go down to 7/8?


If it cuts paper then I'd imagine it will cut grass! Nice looking machine a little rusty but it is old! It appears to be missing a rubber side piece that covers the reel bearing from water and gunk. It's also the same hole you would put a bolt for lapping. When I took my 220a apart I put what felt like half the machine in a rust off solution, HOC adjustment and reel to knife bolt felt much smoother after that.

I'd say go for that 7/8th cut it's pretty much an inch


----------



## kay7711226

BCliff said:


> kay7711226 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Picked this up today(under the mercy of the Mrs. for the rest of my life! ) got if from a golf course, runs on first pull, cuts ok but was sitting for the season since they got some newer mowers. Inspected it as much as I can from what I have read on here, No grass catcher, transport wheels, head lamp works, 11 blade Reel, measures ~37.5cm -37.75cm(almost EOL?) Cutting height now set to 3/8 I want to cut at max 7/8. Some cosmetic damages, some dirt/grease build up(good Idea to try clean up? saw a youtube vid using motorcycle cleaner good/bad idea?
> Adjusted the reel to bed knife after transporting, the locking bolts was loose on the right side, cuts paper! A little rough sounding spinning the reels manually maybe because of the rust build up on the bed knife? Should I try removing and cleaning it up?
> Anything else need to check before I give it a run at 7/8? | Mowed yesterday with manual reel at 1" too soon to go down to 7/8?
> 
> 
> 
> If it cuts paper then I'd imagine it will cut grass! Nice looking machine a little rusty but it is old! It appears to be missing a rubber side piece that covers the reel bearing from water and gunk. It's also the same hole you would put a bolt for lapping. When I took my 220a apart I put what felt like half the machine in a rust off solution, HOC adjustment and reel to knife bolt felt much smoother after that.
> 
> I'd say go for that 7/8th cut it's pretty much an inch
Click to expand...

@BCliff mind sharing your How To on "I put what felt like half the machine in a rust off solution" currently doing a few checks and adjustments and under your peer pressure I will go for it at 7/8"!!


----------



## LW50

Hey guys, what's the latest on buying parts online? Is GreenFarmParts still the place to go, post acquisition? One of my side covers broke off yesterday :roll:


----------



## claydus

LW50 said:


> Hey guys, what's the latest on buying parts online? Is GreenFarmParts still the place to go, post acquisition? One of my side covers broke off yesterday :roll:


GreenFarmParts still selling JD greens mowers parts but you will need to know exact part number. Not sure if they carry every part still. They used to have part of their site setup where you could shop by parts diagram of mowers.


----------



## soupy01833

i use a local company easy for me as they are a short drive.
https://www.revelstractor.com/

No idea what their shipping cost is


----------



## bhutchinson87

The John Deere website has a dealer locater that you can filter down to Golf & Sports.


----------



## BrainBailey

@kay7711226 I would get a grease gun, and hit all the zerks that are outlined in the manual. Additionally, spray your cutting tackle with some fluid film - it will help things glide a little better, and also protect from rust. From there, I'd say give it a whirl and get some time on it. If you're going to do some repairs and fixes over the winter, you're going to need to know what you're trying to fix. Have fun - I was on Cloud 9 during my first pass with my JD.


----------



## kay7711226

BrainBailey said:


> @kay7711226 I would get a grease gun, and hit all the zerks that are outlined in the manual. Additionally, spray your cutting tackle with some fluid film - it will help things glide a little better, and also protect from rust. From there, I'd say give it a whirl and get some time on it. If you're going to do some repairs and fixes over the winter, you're going to need to know what you're trying to fix. Have fun - I was on Cloud 9 during my first pass with my JD.


@BrainBailey I think we are on the same brainwave here :thumbup: curious question my serial#*M00220A0XXXXX* however from all the manuals I see online s/n has something like 030001- I'm I missing something?


----------



## BrainBailey

@kay7711226 I think the standard 220A manual should serve you just fine. The XXXXXX on your machine should be 030001 or greater. Don't confuse the M00220A0 with the XXXXXX. The M00220A0 is the model number, not the serial number.


----------



## g-man

Fyi, in the pinned post on the Equipment thread, there is a list of a few rebuilds. I think pete1313 did a 220SL there. Check it out for some images as the SL is close to the B and C.


----------



## kay7711226

Thanks @g-man can anyone help confirming that the 220A only has 11 blade and 14 blade options? Looking around on R&R that's all I'm finding also called the HD parts in MD the rep said there was a 9 blade option however when putting it into the computer it redirected him to the 11, said something about shaft length difference.


----------



## g-man

@kay7711226 check is this one fits. AMT2867


----------



## bodean731

Washboard/Ripple effect help! I've got a JD 220B. It's in great running condition. It was cutting great UNTIL I hit a root. It bent 3 blades on the far right side of the reel. I hammered and dremeled those to where it aligned and cut paper again. HOWEVER, since then there is now a periodic washboard effect when mowing. I have noticed there is now some horizontal play to the reel.....about 1/4"....not sure if this was there before the root incident. I've added two photos to show the amount of horizontal play....couldn't figure out how to send video.


----------



## CarolinaCuttin

bodean731 said:


> Washboard/Ripple effect help! I've got a JD 220B. It's in great running condition. It was cutting great UNTIL I hit a root. It bent 3 blades on the far right side of the reel. I hammered and dremeled those to where it aligned and cut paper again. HOWEVER, since then there is now a periodic washboard effect when mowing. I have noticed there is now some horizontal play to the reel.....about 1/4"....not sure if this was there before the root incident. I've added two photos to show the amount of horizontal play....couldn't figure out how to send video.


Did you readjust the contact after repairing the reel damage?


----------



## bodean731

Yes....I adjusted the reel-to-bedknife after grinding.


----------



## kay7711226

bodean731 said:


> Yes....I adjusted the reel-to-bedknife after grinding.


Checked on my 220A and no play on the reel so not normal, assuming have the standard 11 blade reel. Maybe can remove the Cap and check the shoulder bolts for the reel?


----------



## cnet24

My head is a bit spinning this morning regarding HOC/FOC/optimal reel blade count and bedknife combinations & hoping others can chime in with what would be ideal for my situation. I currently have an 11 blade reel set to a .48" FOC & HOC of .5" on a 220E.

At anytime during the season, my HOC can vary from ~.25" (spring scalping bermuda) to early season HOC of .375", and will slightly increase to a max of .75" as the season progresses. In essence, my target HOC will span around .5" during the growing season.

What is an ideal reel/bedknife combination for this situation? I was lucky enough to get 5 bedknives with my mower when I purchased it, which is part ET17533 ("standard"). If this bedknife isn't part of the "ideal" setup, what would be ideal utilizing this bedknife?


----------



## csmitty

cnet24 said:


> My head is a bit spinning this morning regarding HOC/FOC/optimal reel blade count and bedknife combinations & hoping others can chime in with what would be ideal for my situation. I currently have an 11 blade reel set to a .48" FOC & HOC of .5" on a 220E.
> 
> At anytime during the season, my HOC can vary from ~.25" (spring scalping bermuda) to early season HOC of .375", and will slightly increase to a max of .75" as the season progresses. In essence, my target HOC will span around .5" during the growing season.
> 
> What is an ideal reel/bedknife combination for this situation? I was lucky enough to get 5 bedknives with my mower when I purchased it, which is part ET17533 ("standard"). If this bedknife isn't part of the "ideal" setup, what would be ideal utilizing this bedknife?


 A 7 blade might fit your range a little better but the 11 should be just fine as well if its still in good shape. The sticker on the FOC knob lists the heights and settings for 11 and 7 blade reel. I was using a 11 blade at around 1" it was ok. Granted my reel had some knicks in it so cant so for sure the FOC is where the stragglers came from. I have a 7 blade ready to go for next season.

Bedknife doesn't have much to do with FOC but rather what height your shooting for. I think standard is fine for .25" but I'm not positive. I used the fairway hi-cut since i'm not going to low.


----------



## cnet24

Thanks @csmitty. I noticed the FOC settings are a bit more varied for the 7 blade compared to the 11 blade. For a target HOC of 0.5", I assume setting 4 (FOC of .6") vs. setting 3 (FOC of .35") is more ideal as it is closer to the desired HOC?


----------



## csmitty

cnet24 said:


> Thanks @csmitty. I noticed the FOC settings are a bit more varied for the 7 blade compared to the 11 blade. For a target HOC of 0.5", I assume setting 4 (FOC of .6") vs. setting 3 (FOC of .35") is more ideal as it is closer to the desired HOC?


Its just a potentiometer and no detents for position. So its infinitely variable. Maybe in between 3 and 4 should be pretty close then to the .5

That is all assuming the controller doesn't account for the resistance of the knob being out of range. As its in looking for for example a 5. but the knob is on 4.267. Since thats not in its set parameters it rounds up to the 5. Not sure if anyone has tested that the blade rpm is infinitely adjustable vs the 5 settings that are shown on the knob sticker.


----------



## cnet24

@csmitty did not realize that, thank you.


----------



## kay7711226

g-man said:


> @kay7711226 check is this one fits. AMT2867


Called R&R today and got confirmation same as from the JD rep, only 11&14 blade options are available for the 220A. Unless someone went with the 9 blade without any issues ,guess 11 blade with the standard option bedknife will be my options cutting at 1/4"-7/8"

Cutting Height:
(Minimum):
• Standard 3.0 mm BedKnife 3.2 mm (1/8-in.)
• Optional 2.5 mm BedKnife 2.8 mm (7/64-in.)

Cutting Height:
(Maximum)22.2 mm (7/8-in.)
Frequency of Clip 5 mm (.195-in.)


----------



## soupy01833

cnet24 said:


> Thanks @csmitty. I noticed the FOC settings are a bit more varied for the 7 blade compared to the 11 blade. For a target HOC of 0.5", I assume setting 4 (FOC of .6") vs. setting 3 (FOC of .35") is more ideal as it is closer to the desired HOC?


I just put a 7 blade on as well. I will use it next year but my target HOC is .75
I ended up going with the fairway high cut as well. It is very thick.


----------



## g-man

@kay7711226 I guess their part catalog must be wrong:

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/59759/referrer/navigation/pgId/40766539


----------



## bhutchinson87

g-man said:


> @kay7711226 I guess their part catalog must be wrong:
> 
> https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/59759/referrer/navigation/pgId/40766539


It directs you to an 11-blade substitution, just like JD rep told them.


----------



## g-man

Substitution should mean that you can use either otherwise it should not show the 9 blade as an option.


----------



## bhutchinson87

I agree with you. They should have used more accurate verbiage like "discontinued" to give a better description, but if you try to add the 9-blade reel to your cart it is replaced with the 11-blade one.


----------



## bodean731

kay7711226 said:


> bodean731 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes....I adjusted the reel-to-bedknife after grinding.
> 
> 
> 
> Checked on my 220A and no play on the reel so not normal, assuming have the standard 11 blade reel. Maybe can remove the Cap and check the shoulder bolts for the reel?
Click to expand...

Ok. I'll try to figure out what the shoulder bolts are...lol. May there also be a spacer or two that may have been broken off in the root trauma?


----------



## BrainBailey

How are you guys hitting this drive roller grease point? I have a 180b, so it's tight. I'm using my LockNLube with an extension nozzle and I still can't get the grease to go in the fitting.


----------



## kay7711226

bodean731 said:


> kay7711226 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bodean731 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes....I adjusted the reel-to-bedknife after grinding.
> 
> 
> 
> Checked on my 220A and no play on the reel so not normal, assuming have the standard 11 blade reel. Maybe can remove the Cap and check the shoulder bolts for the reel?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok. I'll try to figure out what the shoulder bolts are...lol. May there also be a spacer or two that may have been broken off in the root trauma?
Click to expand...

Check your user manual.


----------



## kay7711226

g-man said:


> Substitution should mean that you can use either otherwise it should not show the 9 blade as an option.


So I was finally able to get a clear story on this. Spoke to Bob C. at the MD office, pretty knowledgeable guy a Service rep referred him personally. Story I got from Bob, AMT2867 9-blade was meant to be an option over the lifetime of the 220A however due to demand JD stopped making the 9-blade and now reference you back to the 11-blade as the "standard" option. However a 9-blade will fit without issues(it fit backed then) all other parts bearings and washers should also not be an issue. JD no longer carry the AMT2867 however he was able to look through the system and find some dealers who have in their local stock(Green Tractors in port perry ON ) I was also able to find one at R&R https://www.rrproducts.com/Reel-~-9-Blade-product29513?k=AMT2867 (R&R did warn if it does not fit I will be held accountable for shipping back to them) Will continue to do some more digging hopefully find someone that actually made the conversion to a 9-blade.


----------



## nwga_lawn

Keep us posted on your findings. I was about to go down the same trail for my 220b. Was really wanting to stay OEM but will go R&R if they are the only 9 blade option. My HOC will be around .75 so a 9 blade would preferable.


----------



## bodean731

crussell said:


> FRD135i said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody have a quick breakdown of the parts required for a reel swap(reel and bearings) for the 220B? I want to replace my reel during the short "winter" and find that using the electronic parts diagrams are a pain in the butt. Plus, I don't want to order too much or too little. Any help is appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> I found R&R's part diagram to be pretty easy, but here is a quick list of components:
> 
> -Reel
> -Bedknife
> -Inner Reel Seals (2 EA)
> -Bearing Races (2 EA)
> -Tapered Bearings (2 EA)
> -Outer Seal (1 EA)
> -Bedknife Screws (12 Minimum but may want a few extra)
> -Reel Chain (1 EA)
> -Drive Chain (2 EA)
> -Snap Ring (1 EA)
> -Spring (1 EA)
> -O Ring (1 EA)
> 
> I'd say the first half of this list is necessary for a reel swap, the second half is optional. I just replaced all of these on both of my John Deere's.
Click to expand...

crussell I've got 1/4" play on my 220b 11-blade reel......noticed after hitting a root. Since the root incident, I'm getting washboard/ripple effect on my bermuda (was cutting perfectly before that). 2 questions....How long does a complete reel replacement take (I've also got the groomer attachment)? and Any guesses what particular part may need to be replaced to end the horizontal play?


----------



## Pete1313

@bodean731, 3 things come to my mind for the horizontal play. Either the bearings are bad, the compression/pre-load spring is cracked/missing, or the snap ring on the reel chain side is missing/broken.

Check this thread out for pictures on the reel replacement process as yours will be the same. It will help you identify some of the parts as well.
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1500

Edit - to add that a 4th possibility is you are missing a spacer/another part in the reel area that is causing the play.


----------



## bodean731

Pete1313 said:


> @bodean731, 3 things come to my mind for the horizontal play. Either the bearings are bad, the compression/pre-load spring is cracked/missing, or the snap ring on the reel chain side is missing/broken.
> 
> Check this thread out for pictures on the reel replacement process as yours will be the same. It will help you identify some of the parts as well.
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1500
> 
> Edit - to add that a 4th possibility is you are missing a spacer/another part in the reel area that is causing the play.


Thank you...great info!


----------



## g-man

A 5th possibility to the wave could be that a roller bearing is bad.


----------



## kay7711226

@Pete1313 read through your reconditioning on the 220SL awesome stuff man and I will be using it for my 220A. 2 things I notice, you mentioned that there was a 9-blade option, guessing back then you did the research and confirm it will fit, this gives me more assurance on making the conversion form 11 to 9-blade on the 220A. Also notice you took a different approach on the reel&bedknive removal vs the manual procedure was that because you wanted to do additional parts replacement?


----------



## Pete1313

kay7711226 said:


> @Pete1313 read through your reconditioning on the 220SL awesome stuff man and I will be using it for my 220A. 2 things I notice, you mentioned that there was a 9-blade option, guessing back then you did the research and confirm it will fit, this gives me more assurance on making the conversion form 11 to 9-blade on the 220A. Also notice you took a different approach on the reel&bedknive removal vs the manual procedure was that because you wanted to do additional parts replacement?


The 9-blade should fit. Have I installed one, no, but it was an option for the 220A. Further more the 11-blade is the same part # for the 220A, B, C, and SL, so I would expect the 9-Blade to fit the B, C, SL, as well as the A.

You will have to give me a specific reference in regards to how the manual suggests removal vs. how I did it so we can critique or what my thought process was for doing it differently. I will say though that I rarely use shop manuals, even in my profession as a Hyundai mechanic, and I did not really crack open any manual for the 220SL or my 2500B reconditionings except maybe a few torque specs. Only time I will reference them is for critical info/torque specs. Most techs/mechanics are the same way. We just look at the task and find the quickest way to repair with the tools we have on hand.


----------



## kay7711226

Pete1313 said:


> kay7711226 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Pete1313 read through your reconditioning on the 220SL awesome stuff man and I will be using it for my 220A. 2 things I notice, you mentioned that there was a 9-blade option, guessing back then you did the research and confirm it will fit, this gives me more assurance on making the conversion form 11 to 9-blade on the 220A. Also notice you took a different approach on the reel&bedknive removal vs the manual procedure was that because you wanted to do additional parts replacement?
> 
> 
> 
> The 9-blade should fit. Have I installed one, no, but it was an option for the 220A. Further more the 11-blade is the same part # for the 220A, B, C, and SL, so I would expect the 9-Blade to fit the B, C, SL, as well as the A.
> 
> You will have to give me a specific reference in regards to how the manual suggests removal vs. how I did it so we can critique or what my thought process was for doing it differently. I will say though that I rarely use shop manuals, even in my profession as a Hyundai mechanic, and I did not really crack open any manual for the 220SL or my 2500B reconditionings except maybe a few torque specs. Only time I will reference them is for critical info/torque specs. Most techs/mechanics are the same way. We just look at the task and find the quickest way to repair with the tools we have on hand.
Click to expand...

I think you is what we call "Engine heads" in my industry(Semi-Conductors) :thumbup: It's a lost art these days.....appreciate the good work and the well documented procedure. The manual I'm referencing http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMMT6006_B8/Output/OMMT6006_B811.html#11777

One comment to add in the manual it states "Removing And Replacing Reel Without GTC
(Greens Tender Conditioner)" however at the end step.14 it says remove the "Remove reel assembly" Assy here to me can mean Reel itself or Reel+bedknife bar+Bedknife as shown in fig.E32305(think this is what your procedure entails)


----------



## Pete1313

kay7711226 said:


> One comment to add in the manual it states "Removing And Replacing Reel Without GTC
> (Greens Tender Conditioner)" however at the end step.14 it says remove the "Remove reel assembly" Assy here to me can mean Reel itself or Reel+bedknife bar+Bedknife as shown in fig.E32305(think this is what your procedure entails)


Briefly looking at the manual you referenced, I interpret the "Remove reel assembly" as what picture E32305 shows. That would be the reel, both bearing housings, and bed bar all as one assembly. That is how I took it out as well.


----------



## kay7711226

Pete1313 said:


> kay7711226 said:
> 
> 
> 
> One comment to add in the manual it states "Removing And Replacing Reel Without GTC
> (Greens Tender Conditioner)" however at the end step.14 it says remove the "Remove reel assembly" Assy here to me can mean Reel itself or Reel+bedknife bar+Bedknife as shown in fig.E32305(think this is what your procedure entails)
> 
> 
> 
> Briefly looking at the manual you referenced, I interpret the "Remove reel assembly" as what picture E32305 shows. That would be the reel, both bearing housings, and bed bar all as one assembly. That is how I took it out as well.
Click to expand...

Perfect! Thanks for the clarification, will update on the progress once I get all parts ordered and project started.


----------



## bodean731

g-man said:


> A 5th possibility to the wave could be that a roller bearing is bad.


Thank you!


----------



## kay7711226

Did a quick text search on here to check which type of grease I should use on the JD220A zerks, my manual points these out below(pretty extensive list and over 15-20yrs old) Saw one user got recommendation from JD Special Purpose HD Moly Grease as the "All in 1" option.
I will be picking up a grease gun something over the weekend at Harbor Freight and wondering if this Moly-Graph® Lithium Grease will do? looking for an "All in 1" option.

https://www.harborfreight.com/sta-lube-moly-graph-lithium-grease-40712.html

Also since I do not know what grease is already in there any concerns about mixing/adding different type?

I noticed that bit of grease is oozing out from a pin hole on the larger Cap that covers the Reel shoulder bolt on the left side of the machine. Any concerns there or normal?

BTW ordered a fairway cut bedknife from R&R(RET17532 Bedknife - Fairway .189) and will be testing that out with the 11-blade next week before going into the 9-blade conversion.........

The following greases are preferred:
• John Deere Moly High Temperature EP Grease.
• John Deere High Temperature EP Grease.
• John Deere GREASE-GARD™.
Other greases may be used are:
• SAE Multipurpose EP Grease with 3 to 5 percent
molybdenum disulfide.
• SAE Multipurpose EP Grease.
• Greases meeting Military Specification MIL-G-10924C may
be used as arctic grease.


----------



## nwga_lawn

@gutowscr471 @crussell ...Which reel/bedknife did you guys go with? I would like to stay OEM but JD only makes the 11 blade for my 220B. My HOC will be between .5" to .75".


----------



## g-man

@nwga_lawn I moved your post to the general JD thread. Check the 6th post from this one from pete's around the blade options.

Also, dont feel the need to go from 11 to 9 blades if your current 11 blade still has life to it (more than 4.5in diameter).


----------



## nwga_lawn

g-man said:


> @nwga_lawn I moved your post to the general JD thread. Check the 6th post from this one from pete's around the blade options.
> 
> Also, dont feel the need to go from 11 to 9 blades if your current 11 blade still has life to it (more than 4.5in diameter).


Thanks! I bought a used JD 220B off of Craigslist. It has a bent blade and broke bedknife. Wanting to get the correct reel since I'm having to start from scratch.


----------



## gutowscr471

nwga_lawn said:


> @gutowscr471 @crussell ...Which reel/bedknife did you guys go with? I would like to stay OEM but JD only makes the 11 blade for my 220B. My HOC will be between .5" to .75".


I bought the 11 blade reel and tournament bedknife from RR. Actually all parts came from R&R except for the GTC gasket that I got from Greenville Turf in SC. I replaced: seals, races, bearings, o-ring, shoulder bolts, GTC gasket, reel, bedknife, knife screws, grease fittings. Was a stop/start project over two weekends from a duration perspective. If working on it non-stop, can probably be done in one day if you have all the parts and ability to press in new seals and races. Came out perfect!


----------



## BrainBailey

@gutowscr471 Beautiful!


----------



## bodean731

bodean731 said:


> crussell said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FRD135i said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody have a quick breakdown of the parts required for a reel swap(reel and bearings) for the 220B? I want to replace my reel during the short "winter" and find that using the electronic parts diagrams are a pain in the butt. Plus, I don't want to order too much or too little. Any help is appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> I found R&R's part diagram to be pretty easy, but here is a quick list of components:
> 
> -Reel
> -Bedknife
> -Inner Reel Seals (2 EA)
> -Bearing Races (2 EA)
> -Tapered Bearings (2 EA)
> -Outer Seal (1 EA)
> -Bedknife Screws (12 Minimum but may want a few extra)
> -Reel Chain (1 EA)
> -Drive Chain (2 EA)
> -Snap Ring (1 EA)
> -Spring (1 EA)
> -O Ring (1 EA)
> 
> I'd say the first half of this list is necessary for a reel swap, the second half is optional. I just replaced all of these on both of my John Deere's.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> crussell I've got 1/4" play on my 220b 11-blade reel......noticed after hitting a root. Since the root incident, I'm getting washboard/ripple effect on my bermuda (was cutting perfectly before that). 2 questions....How long does a complete reel replacement take (I've also got the groomer attachment)? and Any guesses what particular part may need to be replaced to end the horizontal play?
Click to expand...

@Pete1313 @crussell I "think" I want to keep the reel assembly in place and replace all parts that may be causing the horizontal play. What parts can be replaced while keeping the reel in place...or can this be done?


----------



## AllisonN

You can replace the bearings while in place, but you can't replace the races. The snap ring on the right side is it in place? That is looking at the front of the mower. The spring on the left side? That keeps the reel tight to the bearings. Grease also plays a role in the horizontal play. Over pump one side it will pull the reel one way or the other.


----------



## gutowscr471

Do homeowners in this thread actually use the GTC with the star vertical knives in their mowers on their lawn. If so, when and what is the use case? If i scalp in spring down to dirt, no thatch to remove so not sure when the GTC would actually be useful.


----------



## g-man

I do in my cool season lawn. I run it on every mow. My main benefit is that it lifts the horizontal leaf blades a little bit right before it goes into the reel/bedknife. Is it a huge benefit? No, I could live without it. The other second minor benefit is that it can pick up some of the mulch pieces are throw them in front of the mower (less stuff gets to the reel).

For bermuda, the GTC should help break the runners from what I read (I'm a cool season guy).


----------



## uts

Hey everyone,

I looked at a 260B a little distance from me and was wondering if anyone can guide me on how this looks. The seller says the unit runs well but the cutting unit needs sharpening. No catcher. Looks like a 7 blade reel but I forgot to ask the seller.





I am def counting on changing the bedknife and sharpening the reel I guess.

Can anyone guide on how this looks..


----------



## kay7711226

@uts not much diff than my 220A, cosmetically looks 90% similar(check out pics I posted) You can measure the reel with a plastic measuring tape(easiest solution I found while its on the unit) If it runs and everything engages, I'll say go for it. Make sure the HOC and Reel to Bedknife adjustment works OK.


----------



## BrainBailey

g-man said:


> I do in my cool season lawn. I run it on every mow. My main benefit is that it lifts the horizontal leaf blades a little bit right before it goes into the reel/bedknife. Is it a huge benefit? No, I could live without it. The other second minor benefit is that it can pick up some of the mulch pieces are throw them in front of the mower (less stuff gets to the reel).
> 
> For bermuda, the GTC should help break the runners from what I read (I'm a cool season guy).


+1 on this. @g-man led me to start using mine every mow and it works great for keeping leaves, debris, and mulch out of the reel. I leave mine on permanently. I'm cutting around 0.75 on my KBG, so it doesn't really contact the ground for the most part.


----------



## BrainBailey

@uts I believe someone else already inquired about this unit. Thread below. My humble assessment is that it's overpriced based on the listing at that time.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=24597

Hope this helps.


----------



## uts

BrainBailey said:


> @uts I believe someone else already inquired about this unit. Thread below. My humble assessment is that it's overpriced based on the listing at that time.
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=24597
> 
> Hope this helps.


Thank you so much for this. It does seem to be used a little rough no doubt. I will see how low that person can go but my idea was to keep a margin for a new reel bedknife bearings etc and then keep the total at 1100 so il see if we can come down to 6 or 700. I doubt I will be able to find a GTC separately and a new one will be more than the mower.


----------



## Deltahedge

I'm about to replace the reel and bedknife on my 260SL. Would all the bearings, races, and snap rings etc. that are listed on R&R the same for the 260 C and SL? They dont have the SL listed on their site.


----------



## LW50

Hey guys, what's the deal with the handles and bails getting bent? Is this just due to repetitive stress from hard turns?

I'm slowly rehabbing my 260C and just bought a shiny new handle cover, only to find out that the operator bail smashes into it because of the bend. I'm fairly certain I might be able to bend the bail back into position, but the actual handle I'm not so sure about. I'm guessing that if I don't fix the handle, I'll just end up bending my repaired/replaced bail back into it in short order.


----------



## nwga_lawn

If the cover was damaged it may have been dropped or hit with another peice of equipment. These things are built like tanks. I couldn't imagine repeatative use bending the handle too. The bail I could see. Mine is flimsy on my 220b.


----------



## LW50

nwga_lawn said:


> If the cover was damaged it may have been dropped or hit with another peice of equipment. These things are built like tanks. I couldn't imagine repeatative use bending the handle too. The bail I could see. Mine is flimsy on my 220b.


The cover had normal wear and tear for a 12 year-old mower, but it was also cracked and damaged where the bail would make contact when engaged. The handle isn't nearly as warped as the bail (see second pic above), but it is cocked to the left a bit and because of where the bend is, likely not repairable.


----------



## AllisonN

jspearm1983 said:


> I'm about to replace the reel and bedknife on my 260SL. Would all the bearings, races, and snap rings etc. that are listed on R&R the same for the 260 C and SL? They dont have the SL listed on their site.


Yes it's the same as the 260c


----------



## Deltahedge

AllisonN said:


> Yes it's the same as the 260c


Thanks


----------



## BrainBailey

Somebody stop me:

The oil in my 180b 'transmission' (in reality it's a transfer case) is filthy. Manual says use only Hy-Gard J20c. Hy-Gard J20c only comes in a gallon - would take me ten years to get through. Scoured all the manuals and even John Deere product literature says Hy-Gard can replace 10w30 or 5w30. For the sake of not having yet another special oil in a giant container consuming shelf space, I'm going to use 10w30 with Lucas oil stabilizer at 25%, same ratio for a differential (thinking about gear face pressures here).

Cost is not a problem, I like simplicity and being able to use the Lucas product in my other engines too.

Who thinks I'm crazy?


----------



## AllisonN

I don't but I do as is it really worth it...? If cost isn't the factor as the gallon of it is only $20 bucks from my dealer then use what you need and throw the rest away. You also say simplicity..... I guess you find simplicity in replacing the transmission if it doesn't work out? Yes I'm sure it will work, but why even chance it as it can't be that big of a deal. Or heck why bother to even change it if you don't want to use what the manufacturer calls for.


----------



## BrainBailey

AllisonN said:


> I don't but I do as is it really worth it...? If cost isn't the factor as the gallon of it is only $20 bucks from my dealer then use what you need and throw the rest away. You also say simplicity..... I guess you find simplicity in replacing the transmission if it doesn't work out? Yes I'm sure it will work, but why even chance it as it can't be that big of a deal. Or heck why bother to even change it if you don't want to use what the manufacturer calls for.


Thought about going the use it and pitch it route, but throwing away perfectly fine oil also doesn't sit well with me. And based on how dirty it is, I think there's more risk in leaving it in versus not changing it.


----------



## g-man

I bought a gallon. I need to check but the viscosity looked different than 10w-30, thinner. There are no gears inside the transmission. It is two sprockets with a chain. The bottom part of the chain touches the oil to keep it lubricated.


----------



## BrainBailey

@g-man Curious to hear your assessment. Haven't switched it out yet. Also, manual gives no guidance on how frequently to actually change. Only after first 50 hrs. I was thinking once a year, which is why I'd love to switch to regular 10w30 like the rest of the machine. J20c could have been chosen because of its availability in the mfg plant, and because I suspect JD wants to push their product, when a standard oil can likely work fine. My hypothesis is also supported by the John Deere oil literature that says Hy-Gard can replace 10w30 and 5w30.

I doubt anyone is thinking as much into this as myself, but I'll gladly be the guinea pig.


----------



## Pete1313

g-man said:


> There are no gears inside the transmission. It is two sprockets with a chain.


There are gears inside the differential inside that gearcase.

@BrainBailey btw, the differential alone is almost $400. The whole gearcase is almost $1400. Buy the Hy-gard and be done with it.


----------



## g-man

@Pete1313 oh I see, the 220E is very different than the A, B, C and SL. In the 220E, it is only use to drive the drum. In the others, it drives the drum and the reel, so it has gears and the slide to turn the reel on and off.

220E


Others


By the way I see a wear part in there (U).


----------



## Pete1313

@g-man they are different gear cases for the 220E vs. A/B/C/SL but they both have gears in there.

In your first picture, letter F is a differential. It has smaller gears inside it. That is how you can get the outside part of the drum to spin faster in the turns(think automotive differential).

Here is the parts diagram for the 220E. #14 is the differential and you can see the gears inside it.


The A/B/C/SL differential is the same part # as it is for the E. Here are some better pictures of the differential and the gears inside.


----------



## g-man

Oh I missed all of that. I hope that #14 never breaks.


----------



## BrainBailey

The deed is done. I drained the oil and replaced with 2/3 Mobil 1 full synthetic 10w30 and 1/3 Lucas oil stabilizer. The machine exploded as soon as I tightened the drain plug. 

What came out was nasty and well overdue for a change. The consistency was on par with standard engine oil and not a heavy weight gear oil. Because it wasn't at temperature, that's not a great indicator, only anecdotal. I won't be running the machine for awhile, so I have time to change my mind.

I'm going to keep researching, but likely will be making this switch. Having to use the JD branded product is a matter of principal at this point.

Cheers!


----------



## BrainBailey

Was cleaning up my grooved front roller today, and getting it greased for storage. In doing so, I noticed an exposed ball bearing that I would typically think should be sealed. Got on green parts direct and found what looks to be like the replacement assembly - SubAssy #2. Two questions for the experts out there: (1) are these indeed sealed bearing assemblies? (2) are they press fits - if not, how are they retained?

Thanks!


----------



## g-man

Yes they are press fit in there. Pete1313 has images of the removal and install.


----------



## Pete1313

@BrainBailey, some good pics in this post.
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=136539#p136539


----------



## claydus

@BrainBailey i replaced my bearings recently in my roller the exact one you have. I bought the R&R bearing puller but also had to used a lot of heat, penetrating oil and slide hammer to get my bearings out. The roller was pitted pretty bad. Sanded the pitted areas of the inside roller race as best I could.

I froze the new bearings and lubed the outer race. I "pressed" the new bearing in a not so recommended way. I used gravity and my driveway as my press.

So far it's been great. The previous bearings allowed the roller to move in all directions and the screwed up my HOC. I will buy a new roller before I replace the bearings in this thing again.


----------



## bf7

uts said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> I looked at a 260B a little distance from me and was wondering if anyone can guide me on how this looks. The seller says the unit runs well but the cutting unit needs sharpening. No catcher. Looks like a 7 blade reel but I forgot to ask the seller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am def counting on changing the bedknife and sharpening the reel I guess.
> 
> Can anyone guide on how this looks..


Did you end up getting this? My 220B has the same sticker on it. I paid $1,000. It's less rusty than the one in the ad, and it came fully serviced / reel sharpened with a grass catcher. I was happy with the price considering what people were asking for greens mowers on eBay. There is virtually no market for these on Craigslist or Facebook around me.


----------



## uts

bf7 said:


> Did you end up getting this? My 220B has the same sticker on it. I paid $1,000. It's less rusty than the one in the ad, and it came fully serviced / reel sharpened with a grass catcher. I was happy with the price considering what people were asking for greens mowers on eBay. There is virtually no market for these on Craigslist or Facebook around me.


Hey,

I was not able to. The seller got a local buyer I think and closed fairly fast. I was on a 2 hr drive from them. As far as price and value goes, it def looked like it needed some work. I realized Finch is a bigger dealer and they have a few 2014 260SL for sale even right now though higher priced they seem to be in great shape. Some of their descriptions seem a little inaccurate.

https://www.finchturf.com/default.asp?page=xPreOwnedInventoryDetail&id=8896013&p=1&vc=walking%20greens%20mowers&s=Year&d=D&fr=xPreOwnedInventory


----------



## bf7

@uts interesting! That 260SL looks pretty pricey to me. I would keep looking, especially since you have all winter to shop now. When I was looking around, I saw a few 2013-2014 GM 1600s (which I think are comparable to the 260SL) going in the $2,500 range. As much as I'd love to have that mower, I couldn't pay more than $1,500 and still be on good terms with my wife.


----------



## uts

bf7 said:


> @uts interesting! That 260SL looks pretty pricey to me. I would keep looking, especially since you have all winter to shop now. When I was looking around, I saw a few 2013-2014 GM 1600s (which I think are comparable to the 260SL) going in the $2,500 range. As much as I'd love to have that mower, I couldn't pay more than $1,500 and still be on good terms with my wife.


Except for cutting greens LLC who are based out of NJ, I have not found anything in a 200 mile radius in 26" be it a 260 or a 1600. I did see a jacobsen pop up but it's even further away and seems to need a lot of work.

I'm looking at the auction but there only 5 26" mower including 260 and 1600 so competition will be tough. Let's see. Otherwise I just might go to NJ and pick one up.


----------



## kay7711226

Any winterizing tips for us up in the Northeast? Recently picked up some gear oil and bearing grease. I generally do not empty my gas(stabilized) and oil in my equipment(Snow blower, lawn mower, weed eater) all which stay out in the garage during the winter and will crank back up just fine when needed.


----------



## enkrypt3d

I'm having a hard time starting my JD 2500 E cut hybrid..... it starts but runs rough and will die if i throttle it up until it warms up. once it's warm it runs fine. I changed the oil so that's all good... any ideas?


----------



## Chuuurles

Have a question about a 240B i wanna buy, but it seems i am unable to send a PM. Is this b/c of my post count?


----------



## BrainBailey

@Pete1313 @g-man @claydus Thanks for the help and information on the bearings. Where did you guys get the JD technicians manual? Did you have to purchase it?


----------



## BrainBailey

@kay7711226 I would suggest a rust preventer on the reel and any other exposed steel surfaces. WD40 works. I use Fluid Film personally. I spray my reel and roller every few uses because it does wear off quickly. Especially on my roller, it keeps the corrosion at bay.


----------



## g-man

@BrainBailey

http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual


----------



## BrainBailey

@g-man You're the man!!! (Pun intended). Thank you very much sir!


----------



## kay7711226

BrainBailey said:


> @kay7711226 I would suggest a rust preventer on the reel and any other exposed steel surfaces. WD40 works. I use Fluid Film personally. I spray my reel and roller every few uses because it does wear off quickly. Especially on my roller, it keeps the corrosion at bay.


Thanks man, took your advice, also changed the Gear oil by accident and Greased all the Zerks. She is ready to go nap nap.


----------



## bf7

kay7711226 said:


> Any winterizing tips for us up in the Northeast? Recently picked up some gear oil and bearing grease. I generally do not empty my gas(stabilized) and oil in my equipment(Snow blower, lawn mower, weed eater) all which stay out in the garage during the winter and will crank back up just fine when needed.


The manual I found for the B models has some instructions for storage prep. Not sure how much is absolutely necessary for the few months that it will be winterized, but I am definitely following the steps for fuel, engine oil, rust prevention, and grease. I will probably change the trans oil too since I just got the mower and don't know when it was last changed.


----------



## uts

Does anyone have experience with the SL vs E cut? Why prefer (advantage/disadvantage) one over the other for our lawn application?


----------



## Nrkstudio

uts said:


> Does anyone have experience with the SL vs E cut? Why prefer (advantage/disadvantage) one over the other for our lawn application?


Good question I'm new to the forum. Purchasing new home with a decent size lawn (first real lawn for me to own).

Would either work with St Aug grass?


----------



## enkrypt3d

Nrkstudio said:


> uts said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have experience with the SL vs E cut? Why prefer (advantage/disadvantage) one over the other for our lawn application?
> 
> 
> 
> Good question I'm new to the forum. Purchasing new home with a decent size lawn (first real lawn for me to own).
> 
> Would either work with St Aug grass?
Click to expand...

No, the height of cut on those isn't tall enough. you'll scalp it....


----------



## Nrkstudio

enkrypt3d said:


> Nrkstudio said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> uts said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have experience with the SL vs E cut? Why prefer (advantage/disadvantage) one over the other for our lawn application?
> 
> 
> 
> Good question I'm new to the forum. Purchasing new home with a decent size lawn (first real lawn for me to own).
> 
> Would either work with St Aug grass?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No, the height of cut on those isn't tall enough. you'll scalp it....
Click to expand...

Check out this Aussie cutting St Aug to 5/8". I see what you're saying though, I may switch to Bermuda but I have some big live oaks around the house that may cast too much shade. Just checking out those videoes about yard renovations now. The rabbit hole of lawn maintenance...

Here's the link:


----------



## Deltahedge

I'm doing a rebuild of my 2012 JD260SL this winter. I'm not as skilled as the other members here who have done rebuilds, but, I figure I have some time before I need it again, so why not take it apart and see what needs to be replaced and make it look good in the process?

The things I knew needed work were the GTC (needs some new gears in the housing), and a new reel. So after taking the advice from this forum, I decided to change the reel bearings and the bed knife while I'm installing a new reel.

My question for y'all is this. I have the entire mower torn apart, so should I change anything on the transmission while I'm at it?

If your mower was in pieces, what parts would you change before putting it back together?


----------



## kay7711226

bf7 said:


> kay7711226 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any winterizing tips for us up in the Northeast? Recently picked up some gear oil and bearing grease. I generally do not empty my gas(stabilized) and oil in my equipment(Snow blower, lawn mower, weed eater) all which stay out in the garage during the winter and will crank back up just fine when needed.
> 
> 
> 
> The manual I found for the B models has some instructions for storage prep. Not sure how much is absolutely necessary for the few months that it will be winterized, but I am definitely following the steps for fuel, engine oil, rust prevention, and grease. I will probably change the trans oil too since I just got the mower and don't know when it was last changed.
Click to expand...

Did not find this details on the 220A manual. I will use this going forward. Thanks!


----------



## Pete1313

uts said:


> Does anyone have experience with the SL vs E cut? Why prefer (advantage/disadvantage) one over the other for our lawn application?


@uts, here is an older post.
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=26698#p26698

The SL is JD's Fixed head and gives what I believe is the best cut @ ~.5" or lower.

The E is JD's floating Head with the QA5 cutting head. When properly setup will kick the pants off any mower in the .75" to almost 1.5" range IMO(think Wrigley Field HOC). The main differences are being able to adjust clip rate and bedknife angle.

If I wanted a putting green, then I would get the SL hands down. If I want a taller athletic field HOC, I would choose the E. Each would work in the other HOC scenarios, just not as ideally.


----------



## dlamarcus1234

Does anyone with a GTC/ Groomer attachment notice if the groomer itself spins a little while the reel is engaged even with the groomer lever flipped on the off position? I am unable to find anything that shows if the groomer should not have any motion or not when not in use?


----------



## g-man

Mine does not turn in the off position. It is free to turn, so I imagine that it could turn with the grass with the forward motion of the mower.


----------



## claydus

dlamarcus1234 said:


> Does anyone with a GTC/ Groomer attachment notice if the groomer itself spins a little while the reel is engaged even with the groomer lever flipped on the off position? I am unable to find anything that shows if the groomer should not have any motion or not when not in use?


Sounds very familiar on what I am experiencing. Need to thoroughly clean GTC housing and check all bearings and gears. L I suspect the 2 shaft gears that engage are your problem.

When I bought my mower it was just like you are describing. I found all lubrication in GTC housing was toast along with engagement gears on the shaft. Both gears come in a set and cost north of $200 from what I recall.


----------



## AllisonN

I've never had mine turn and always has been free when flipped to off. If you have had the lever removed make sure that when you installed it back that is in the slot on the gear. As the lever can incorrectly be installed outside the gear lip and the GTC will stay engaged.


----------



## claydus

@AllisonN sonN
On the right side of the picture you will see a gear with 2 extended poles. This where the GTC engages.









On the other side of the GTC housing as seen below, the left part has another gear with 2 extended poles









The gear on the left should be in left hand hole in the second picture. It has groove in the bottom that lever on the GTC engages. Mine won't engage since they have been neglect and worn down over the years.


----------



## cnet24

220E Owners- what does your limit chains look like for the control contour feature? I have mine set to default and after reading the below from John Deere's website I think I am going to tighten mine up this year. Just curious to hear from others that have this feature.


----------



## SNOWBOB11

I tightened the chains on mine. I shortened it to 6 links and moved the studs forward. The factory setting has too much movement IMO. I felt the head was flexing around too much. I prefer it this way.


----------



## cnet24

Thanks @SNOWBOB11. I too felt that way and read the above which seems to confirm.


----------



## AllisonN

So I'm sure on a 220e if it will not back lap, it is the $900 dollar controller. The switch is good, the parking brake switch is fine. Reel will mow fine and it will not give any flashes. Anyone else had one that will not back lap?

Next question is there a adapter to back lap the QA5 head without the electric motor?


----------



## g-man

If it is turning forward, then I doubt it is the controller. The sequence is tricky. Reel off, then brake on (brake sensor on), then switch to backlap, then Reel on.


----------



## AllisonN

g-man said:


> If it is turning forward, then I doubt it is the controller. The sequence is tricky. Reel off, then brake on (brake sensor on), then switch to backlap, then Reel on.


I completely understand that, and It's crazy to me how it will continue to work in the one direction. I've ohmed out all the wiring from the back lap switch to the brake switch and to the controller and everything is good. Why it leaves me to think there is nothing else but the controller. Sucks to buy one just for reverse.


----------



## soupy01833

Maybe found a salvage unit fir cheap


----------



## AllisonN

soupy01833 said:


> Maybe found a salvage unit fir cheap


Maybe, would be nice but I don't even know if that's the best thing to do as my mower is a 2016 with 1,200 hrs on it. Makes me wonder what's next


----------



## Pete1313

@AllisonN, did you try bypassing the park brake switch?


----------



## g-man

The reel motor provides a feedback to the controller (As the motor spins, internal Hall effect sensors provide the controller with speed, stalling, and direction of spin information. - Page 115). If the motor is not doing what the controller expect, then it should give you a fault signal in the LED. Are you getting any faults?

In page 116, Pushing the PTO switch to the ON position will engage the cutting unit for backlapping service only if all following conditions are met:

• the backlap/mow switch is in BACKLAP position.
• the parking brake is engaged.
• the travel lever is released to the (rearward) disengaged
position.

I was not aware of the travel lever one. If the backlap and parking brake sensor are providing the correct voltage, then check the travel lever one.


----------



## AllisonN

g-man said:


> The reel motor provides a feedback to the controller (As the motor spins, internal Hall effect sensors provide the controller with speed, stalling, and direction of spin information. - Page 115). If the motor is not doing what the controller expect, then it should give you a fault signal in the LED. Are you getting any faults?
> 
> In page 116, Pushing the PTO switch to the ON position will engage the cutting unit for backlapping service only if all following conditions are met:
> 
> • the backlap/mow switch is in BACKLAP position.
> • the parking brake is engaged.
> • the travel lever is released to the (rearward) disengaged
> position.
> 
> I was not aware of the travel lever one. If the backlap and parking brake sensor are providing the correct voltage, then check the travel lever one.


I was not aware of the travel lever and only the parking brake also. So let me verify that and I hope maybe that is it! Thanks for the help!


----------



## AllisonN

Pete1313 said:


> @AllisonN, did you try bypassing the park brake switch?


No as the that switch ohmed fine while on or off and all the way back to the controller. But I haven't checked the travel lever like g-man just mentioned.


----------



## AllisonN

And it was the travel switch! Thankfully and thanks for all the help on this! Not completely gone but it's intermittently not breaking the circuit.


----------



## Murk09

So I bought my first reel mower at the latest Weeks auctions. I'm just trying to pick everyone's brain on where you buy replacement parts. Everything works as it should on the 220E, I would just like to do some refurbishing of my own. A simple google search doesn't yield many results for parts for my mower, so I was hoping for some help.


----------



## LW50

I've been buying from Revel's Turf and Tractor in NC, they ship fast.


----------



## Jacob_S

Murk09 said:


> So I bought my first reel mower at the latest Weeks auctions. I'm just trying to pick everyone's brain on where you buy replacement parts. Everything works as it should on the 220E, I would just like to do some refurbishing of my own. A simple google search doesn't yield many results for parts for my mower, so I was hoping for some help.


I had been buying parts from greenfarmparts but the last time I tried to get some things they couldn't get them, something about contract changed and can no longer get golf parts or something. For me the closest JD golf service center is in Mobile at some point I would like to bring my mower to them and have them do a good once over on it just to have someone who knows what they are doing tune it up.


----------



## claydus

Anyone score a JD E-cut model from Weeks Auction?


----------



## AllisonN

Murk09 said:


> So I bought my first reel mower at the latest Weeks auctions. I'm just trying to pick everyone's brain on where you buy replacement parts. Everything works as it should on the 220E, I would just like to do some refurbishing of my own. A simple google search doesn't yield many results for parts for my mower, so I was hoping for some help.


Your parts manual. https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/74880

Just call a John Deere turf dealer and they will give you the correct dealer as they are territorial.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

How do you adjust the driver? I have a 220e which I believe is the same as other models in how the drive lever works.

When I push the lever forward the drive engages and pushes ahead just as long as I'm holding it but the moment I let off it stops.


----------



## AllisonN

MeanDean said:


> How do you adjust the driver? I have a 220e which I believe is the same as other models in how the drive lever works.
> 
> When I push the lever forward the drive engages and pushes ahead just as long as I'm holding it but the moment I let off it stops.


----------



## Benwag

Been looking around for transport wheels for my 180e-cut and saw somewhere that the SL and e-cut have different wheels/hubs than the A,B,C series. Is anybody familiar with the differences between the series?


----------



## Murk09

Jacob_S said:


> Murk09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I bought my first reel mower at the latest Weeks auctions. I'm just trying to pick everyone's brain on where you buy replacement parts. Everything works as it should on the 220E, I would just like to do some refurbishing of my own. A simple google search doesn't yield many results for parts for my mower, so I was hoping for some help.
> 
> 
> 
> I had been buying parts from greenfarmparts but the last time I tried to get some things they couldn't get them, something about contract changed and can no longer get golf parts or something. For me the closest JD golf service center is in Mobile at some point I would like to bring my mower to them and have them do a good once over on it just to have someone who knows what they are doing tune it up.
Click to expand...

That's along the same line as what I have planned. Wanted to do some of the more basic stuff myself and then let someone with a little more savvy and experience give it a run through.


----------



## LW50

Benwag said:


> Been looking around for transport wheels for my 180e-cut and saw somewhere that the SL and e-cut have different wheels/hubs than the A,B,C series. Is anybody familiar with the differences between the series?


At some point they switched to a hexagonal axle, I think the C's have them too


----------



## mrbobbyray

claydus said:


> Anyone score a JD E-cut model from Weeks Auction?


I did. I cleaned mine up with some S100(motorcycle cleaner) and gave it a complete tune up. She is running and cutting great!


----------



## AllisonN

mrbobbyray said:


> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone score a JD E-cut model from Weeks Auction?
> 
> 
> 
> I did. I cleaned mine up with some S100(motorcycle cleaner) and gave it a complete tune up. She is running and cutting great!
Click to expand...

What was all the white stuff on the E's?


----------



## mrbobbyray

To be honest, I am not totally sure. My big fear was that maybe the white stuff was from a fire or something similar, but after laying hands on it that did not seem to be the case. My mower looked like it had been sitting out in the weather elements for a long time. It had 1300 hrs on it.


----------



## AllisonN

mrbobbyray said:


> To be honest, I am not totally sure. My big fear was that maybe the white stuff was from a fire or something similar, but after laying hands on it that did not seem to be the case. My mower looked like it had been sitting out in the weather elements for a long time. It had 1300 hrs on it.


I guess you were able to get it off?


----------



## mrbobbyray

Yes it came right off mine, no problem.


----------



## AllisonN

mrbobbyray said:


> Yes it came right off mine, no problem.


I was just curious, as I never used s100 but have a bagger and was wondering how great s100 was. But sounds that it must be pretty decent.


----------



## soupy01833

LW50 said:


> I've been buying from Revel's Turf and Tractor in NC, they ship fast.


 I am lucky as they are 3 miles from the house so I get all my parts from them
I installed an 8 blade reel in the off season as they had a great price on the reel
Was cheaper than what they charge to grind a reel


----------



## cnet24

One of the John Deere service reps that services metro Atlanta has my 220e right now for yearly maintenance, reel sharpening, etc. I am looking at replacing my 11 blade reel with a 7 blade reel- the tech mentioned this is an aftermarket part and I confirmed it is NOT from R&R. Does anyone know where JD's aftermarket reels come from? I can get a JD quality reel for around ~$200 more, but if the 7 blade aftermarket reel is good quality, I will probably go with it.


----------



## soupy01833

cnet24 said:


> One of the John Deere service reps that services metro Atlanta has my 220e right now for yearly maintenance, reel sharpening, etc. I am looking at replacing my 11 blade reel with a 7 blade reel- the tech mentioned this is an aftermarket part and I confirmed it is NOT from R&R. Does anyone know where JD's aftermarket reels come from? I can get a JD quality reel for around ~$200 more, but if the 7 blade aftermarket reel is good quality, I will probably go with it.


The part is a JD part TCA19350

I get mine here as it is cheap 
https://revels.dealercustomerportal.com/customers/order-parts

Part Details
Part Number:	TCA19350
Description:	MOWER REEL
Manufacturer:	JOHNDEER
Availability:	15
Unit Price:	$244.91


----------



## cnet24

soupy01833 said:


> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> One of the John Deere service reps that services metro Atlanta has my 220e right now for yearly maintenance, reel sharpening, etc. I am looking at replacing my 11 blade reel with a 7 blade reel- the tech mentioned this is an aftermarket part and I confirmed it is NOT from R&R. Does anyone know where JD's aftermarket reels come from? I can get a JD quality reel for around ~$200 more, but if the 7 blade aftermarket reel is good quality, I will probably go with it.
> 
> 
> 
> The part is a JD part TCA19350
> 
> I get mine here as it is cheap
> https://revels.dealercustomerportal.com/customers/order-parts
> 
> Part Details
> Part Number:	TCA19350
> Description:	MOWER REEL
> Manufacturer:	JOHNDEER
> Availability:	15
> Unit Price:	$244.91
Click to expand...

Thanks Soupy. Never heard of this company. Do you have the 7 blade reel from them? How is the quality?


----------



## soupy01833

It is an original john deere reel and I installed it on my 220E over the winter. I can say the quality is quite good,

Revels tractor is a JD dealer and located a few miles from my house., I get all my parts from them and drive over and pick them up. They are great to work with


----------



## AllisonN

cnet24 said:


> soupy01833 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> One of the John Deere service reps that services metro Atlanta has my 220e right now for yearly maintenance, reel sharpening, etc. I am looking at replacing my 11 blade reel with a 7 blade reel- the tech mentioned this is an aftermarket part and I confirmed it is NOT from R&R. Does anyone know where JD's aftermarket reels come from? I can get a JD quality reel for around ~$200 more, but if the 7 blade aftermarket reel is good quality, I will probably go with it.
> 
> 
> 
> The part is a JD part TCA19350
> 
> I get mine here as it is cheap
> https://revels.dealercustomerportal.com/customers/order-parts
> 
> Part Details
> Part Number:	TCA19350
> Description:	MOWER REEL
> Manufacturer:	JOHNDEER
> Availability:	15
> Unit Price:	$244.91
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks Soupy. Never heard of this company. Do you have the 7 blade reel from them? How is the quality?
Click to expand...

JD dealers are territorial. Atlanta area has to use Greenville turf and tractor, in Piedmont SC.


----------



## g-man

@soupy01833 you maybe saved me $200. That same reel is $408 at other JD dealers (P&K and greenville) before shipping. Why the price difference, I dont know. I placed the order, so we will see if they are allowed to ship it to indy.


----------



## soupy01833

g-man said:


> @soupy01833 you maybe saved me $200. That same reel is $408 at other JD dealers (P&K and greenville) before shipping. Why the price difference, I dont know. I placed the order, so we will see if they are allowed to ship it to indy.


Is shipping reasonable? I was just as surprised when I saw the price. I bought an original oem carb for my 220e from them for dirt cheap as well


----------



## LW50

AllisonN said:


> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> soupy01833 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The part is a JD part TCA19350
> 
> I get mine here as it is cheap
> https://revels.dealercustomerportal.com/customers/order-parts
> 
> Part Details
> Part Number:	TCA19350
> Description:	MOWER REEL
> Manufacturer:	JOHNDEER
> Availability:	15
> Unit Price:	$244.91
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Soupy. Never heard of this company. Do you have the 7 blade reel from them? How is the quality?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> JD dealers are territorial. Atlanta area has to use Greenville turf and tractor, in Piedmont SC.
Click to expand...

They don't have any problems shipping to me in Atlanta


----------



## soupy01833

they have a place in Wadsworth, OH: 
as well


----------



## g-man

The invoice was just processed. Free shipping.  I really saved.


----------



## soupy01833

Wow even better

I should buy another one as it is cheaper than adding a relief grind to my current reel


----------



## g-man

Just to update. The shipment made it home last Thursday, so it all worked out. Free shipping and no tax. In my rush to place the order (I already started mowing), I forgot the 13 $0.50 bedknife bolts. The JD store near me (not golf parts anymore) shows that they have them in stock. Otherwise, I will remove one and go to Menards.


----------



## soupy01833

I have to pay tax so you did better than me,. It is a very well made reel and has relief grind,. Revels charges 250 for a spin grind. they don't do relief relief grinds,. I might be better off replacing the reel every time I need a grind


----------



## Hawkeye_311

Just curious on how you guys think I did? Spent $400 on this John Deere 220 last month. It runs fantastic, has basically zero rust on it and cuts paper after some adjustments. Have yet to actually use it for real on the lawn.

It came with transport wheels, grass catcher, ************ machine, bucket of 120 & 180 grit lapping compound. Only things I see that are missing are the kickstand and rubber piece that covers bolt where you backlap.


----------



## csmitty

AllisonN said:


> mrbobbyray said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone score a JD E-cut model from Weeks Auction?
> 
> 
> 
> I did. I cleaned mine up with some S100(motorcycle cleaner) and gave it a complete tune up. She is running and cutting great!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What was all the white stuff on the E's?
Click to expand...

When I saw it I thought maybe it was road salt from them trucking them in from a northern, or western state.


----------



## rsh87

Any help would be greatly appreciated here!
I am in doubt about the reel to bedknife contact is too tight on my 180b

[media]https://youtu.be/3_c7hEsdfzE[/media]

What would you guys say (sorry about the bad angle), is this too tight? I can't get it any looser without it loosing ability to cut paper.
Also can any of you by judging the video, see approx how much life there is left on the reel? Thanks!


----------



## g-man

It sounds too tight. The clearance should be 0.025 mm to 0.050 mm.

I am concerned with the allen wrench heads on your bedknife screws. The screws bind and need high torque to remove them in the future. You can strip those screws. Torx or flat head might be better.


----------



## Pete1313

Also, that reel looks to be 90+% worn


----------



## soupy01833

the easiest way to find how much life is left is take a string and wrap it around the reel. take it off and measure where the strings touch for the first time. A new reel is about 5 inches in diameter which is about 15.7 inches circumference. Once you know the circumference figure out the diameter. A reel is EOL when it reaches 4.5 inches or so,


----------



## rsh87

g-man said:


> It sounds too tight. The clearance should be 0.025 mm to 0.050 mm.
> 
> I am concerned with the allen wrench heads on your bedknife screws. The screws bind and need high torque to remove them in the future. You can strip those screws. Torx or flat head might be better.


Yeah thought so, thank you for your thoughts, guess i have to get a spin grind if any life left on the reel.
And you are probably right about the allen wrench, thought i was smart ordering those instead of a
flat head, but you are right these ones will strip much easier, will order flat head insted 



Pete1313 said:


> Also, that reel looks to be 90+% worn


Hey Thanks for replying, you got a good eye, after measuring it with soupy01833's suggestion 
it's 45.83 so 92.6% worn if i am not mistaken :|



soupy01833 said:


> the easiest way to find how much life is left is take a string and wrap it around the reel. take it off and measure where the strings touch for the first time. A new reel is about 5 inches in diameter which is about 15.7 inches circumference. Once you know the circumference figure out the diameter. A reel is EOL when it reaches 4.5 inches or so,


Thanks! I really needed a way to measure it, so thank you very much for that. As mentioned above, it's real close to the end, would you give it one last spin grind? 
A new reel costs 640$ in my country, so was hoping to at least get one season out of it.


----------



## bp2878

Hawkeye_311 said:


> Just curious on how you guys think I did? Spent $400 on this John Deere 220 last month. It runs fantastic, has basically zero rust on it and cuts paper after some adjustments. Have yet to actually use it for real on the lawn.
> 
> It came with transport wheels, grass catcher, backlapping machine, bucket of 120 & 180 grit lapping compound. Only things I see that are missing are the kickstand and rubber piece that covers bolt where you backlap.


Pretty good deal, looks in great shape! Old but great machine. I would change that gear oil for sure though.


----------



## AUspicious

g-man said:


> It sounds too tight. The clearance should be 0.025 mm to 0.050 mm.
> 
> I am concerned with the allen wrench heads on your bedknife screws. The screws bind and need high torque to remove them in the future. You can strip those screws. Torx or flat head might be better.


I've never been as frustrated or had to work as hard as I did when I replaced my bed knife. The screws were so rusted and seized up that I had to use PB Blaster, a torch, and an impact screwdriver to back them out. For a few of them, I had to grind out new slots in the screw heads. SUUUUUCKED! So yeah, I would definitely think about replacing those screws.

That's a great find for $400. Solid mower.


----------



## Hawkeye_311

bp2878 said:


> Hawkeye_311 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious on how you guys think I did? Spent $400 on this John Deere 220 last month. It runs fantastic, has basically zero rust on it and cuts paper after some adjustments. Have yet to actually use it for real on the lawn.
> 
> It came with transport wheels, grass catcher, backlapping machine, bucket of 120 & 180 grit lapping compound. Only things I see that are missing are the kickstand and rubber piece that covers bolt where you backlap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty good deal, looks in great shape! Old but great machine. I would change that gear oil for sure though.
Click to expand...

Will do on the gear oil. For my first dive into reel mowing I wasn't quite ready to pull the trigger on a $1,000+ mower just yet.


----------



## LW50

Hawkeye_311 said:


> Will do on the gear oil. For my first dive into reel mowing I wasn't quite ready to pull the trigger on a $1,000+ mower just yet.


I think you did pretty good for $400 :thumbup:


----------



## bp2878

Hawkeye_311 said:


> bp2878 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hawkeye_311 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious on how you guys think I did? Spent $400 on this John Deere 220 last month. It runs fantastic, has basically zero rust on it and cuts paper after some adjustments. Have yet to actually use it for real on the lawn.
> 
> It came with transport wheels, grass catcher, backlapping machine, bucket of 120 & 180 grit lapping compound. Only things I see that are missing are the kickstand and rubber piece that covers bolt where you backlap.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty good deal, looks in great shape! Old but great machine. I would change that gear oil for sure though.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Will do on the gear oil. For my first dive into reel mowing I wasn't quite ready to pull the trigger on a $1,000+ mower just yet.
Click to expand...

That mower will last you for many many years. I'd also pop those side covers off and inspect the roller chains. You can replace them for cheap as well. Ive used, 220e cuts, 220sl, and 220b but I prefer the a model over all of them which is pretty much exactly like yours only a couple years newer. Way less cumbersome and more maneuverable than the e model and the covers are metal rather than the plastic ones on the b and sl. Takes awhile to get use to using a greens mower so give it some time but you will be thrilled with it after you figure it out.


----------



## gopack81

Hi all,

I purchased a John Deere 180 SL last October. I mowed with it a couple of times last year and had no problems. However, I was scalping my lawn a couple of weeks ago and towards the very end I noticed what seemed to be a grinding noise. I could only create the grinding noise when the clutch AND the reel were both engaged. I checked the reel to see if I could replicate the sound by spinning the reel by hand, and I couldn't. Any ideas what might be causing this?


----------



## Herring

I'm looking for information on my recent purchase, a John Deere 220b, straight from a local golf course. The mower had pine straw, grass, and fishing line wrapped around the reel. The motor fired up on the first pull and runs well, throttle and reel engagement all work correctly. The parking brake however does not work.

The reel is chipped and am hoping to get advice on how much life is left or if replacement is needed. A new RR Products 11 blade reel is $255.40. A new bedknife 22" standard is $34.05. My goal is to maintain .5" - .75".

What's the best cleaner for washing?

I've searched but could only find a manual and service manual for the 220c, are these manuals interchangeable?

Thanks!


----------



## soupy01833

I don't see how you save that reel. I would just replace it and the bed knife


----------



## nwga_lawn

Contact Revels and price a "Coretask" reel. They are aftermarket and significantly cheaper. Be sure to replace the bearings/seals while you're at it.

I'm interested in the transport wheels if don't have any use for them


----------



## Herring

Thanks I will contact them, it's not cutting paper at all along with the damage. I noticed it has the Revels sticker still. After replacing with a new reel and bedknife is any more maintenance needed, backlapping?

I was happy to get the wheels and grass catcher with it, I've learned they are somewhat hard to come by!


----------



## soupy01833

A new reel is sharp. And has a relief grind. There really is no need to backlap it but you could do a light one to take the paint off the blades

I get all my parts a revels as I live close by. They are great and normally have everything.

You should grease all the zerks change the oil and possibly the gear box oil


----------



## walk1355

@Herring

I have a different opinion here concerning this than others.

1. If you haven't reel mowed before, having a not-brand-new reel might not be so bad. I'd rather hit rocks, etc., with an old reel, than a brand new reel. and chances are you will find stuff like that in your yard that you didn't think was there to begin with.

2. Looks like this is an 11 (maybe a 9 blade) blade reel. If it's only 1 small section of 1 blade, at .5-.75 inches, you'll never even notice it in the cut at that height. Just make sure it's ground back enough that it's not contacting the bedknife.

3. Other than the part of the reel that is damaged, this looks to be a fairly new(er) reel that has plenty of life left.

4. If you do replace the reel, replace the bearings/seals/etc as well, it's a minor cost in a fairly significant job that take a hours to complete.

5. The manual should show you how to adjust the parking brake.

6. I wouldn't replace with an 11 blade reel. If you can get a 7 or 9 blade reel, that's going to perform better at the taller heights you will be mowing at due to frequency of cut.

7. These things are built like tanks, you can wash it with any kind of car soap or motorcycle soap. Stay away from anything that degreases, like dish soap, etc. You don't want the washing to wash away much needed grease in the bearings, moving parts, etc. Just make sure to use a blower and let it dry in the sun before putting it away to avoid surface rust.

8. The engine is a Honda gx120, remember that.

9. The 220c and 220b manuals I am 99% sure are interchangeable.


----------



## Herring

soupy01833 said:


> A new reel is sharp. And has a relief grind. There really is no need to backlap it but you could do a light one to take the paint off the blades
> 
> I get all my parts a revels as I live close by. They are great and normally have everything.
> 
> You should grease all the zerks change the oil and possibly the gear box oil


Thanks! They're not too far from me also so will be a good resource. Is there a link to a 220b service guide for maintenance, I looked through the thread but couldn't find one.


----------



## soupy01833

http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMMT7384_K5/Output/Index.html?tM=HO

The only reason I said replace is because you will be a good sum of money for a grind unless the golf course you bought it from will do it. I bought my 7 blade reel from Revels for 218 but I have a 220E


----------



## Herring

walk1355 said:


> @Herring
> 
> I have a different opinion here concerning this than others.
> 
> 1. If you haven't reel mowed before, having a not-brand-new reel might not be so bad. I'd rather hit rocks, etc., with an old reel, than a brand new reel. and chances are you will find stuff like that in your yard that you didn't think was there to begin with.
> 
> 2. Looks like this is an 11 (maybe a 9 blade) blade reel. If it's only 1 small section of 1 blade, at .5-.75 inches, you'll never even notice it in the cut at that height. Just make sure it's ground back enough that it's not contacting the bedknife.
> 
> 3. Other than the part of the reel that is damaged, this looks to be a fairly new(er) reel that has plenty of life left.
> 
> 4. If you do replace the reel, replace the bearings/seals/etc as well, it's a minor cost in a fairly significant job that take a hours to complete.
> 
> 5. The manual should show you how to adjust the parking brake.
> 
> 6. I wouldn't replace with an 11 blade reel. If you can get a 7 or 9 blade reel, that's going to perform better at the taller heights you will be mowing at due to frequency of cut.
> 
> 7. These things are built like tanks, you can wash it with any kind of car soap or motorcycle soap. Stay away from anything that degreases, like dish soap, etc. You don't want the washing to wash away much needed grease in the bearings, moving parts, etc. Just make sure to use a blower and let it dry in the sun before putting it away to avoid surface rust.
> 
> 8. The engine is a Honda gx120, remember that.
> 
> 9. The 220c and 220b manuals I am 99% sure are interchangeable.


That's good advice my lawn has never been leveled so this reel will be perfect to start until replacement. I saw a 9 blade is an option as well for the reel. Thanks! I will read through that manual and start on the maintenance.


----------



## Herring

soupy01833 said:


> http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMMT7384_K5/Output/Index.html?tM=HO
> 
> The only reason I said replace is because you will be a good sum of money for a grind unless the golf course you bought it from will do it. I bought my 8 blade reel from Revels for 218 but I have a 220E


That's much cheaper than what I've found so far. The golf course referred the grinding out to a mechanic in the area and with the cost and then transport to and from may be better to replace when the time comes.


----------



## soupy01833

my guess is this will not fit a 220B but who knows

Part Number:	TCA19350
Description:	MOWER REEL
Manufacturer:	JOHNDEER
Availability:	14
Unit Price:	$244.91


----------



## nwga_lawn

Only the 11 blade is available for the 220B....already been down path.


----------



## walk1355

nwga_lawn said:


> Only the 11 blade is available for the 220B....already been down path.


This isn't true. Looks like R&R carries a 14 and a 9 blade.


----------



## Nguyen1732

Hello my name is Nguyen and I'm from Richmond TX. I have a JD 220B and I came across your post about the Honda engine gx120. I think my engine is dying out and is releasing a lot of white smoke when I mow. I had an oil change and put in new spark plug. Carburetor is good also. I did some research and found that I can purchase a brand new Honda GX120 engine at Northern Tools. I want to confirm if it'll fit my 220B and is there any other parts I need to buy besides the engine? Thanks


----------



## nwga_lawn

You're right...I remember now. OEM 9 blade isn't available and crosses back over to the 11 blade #. The JD dealer I worked with priced me an aftermarket and I didnt realize it until it arrived. It was about $70 cheaper than the R&R.

I'll see how this 11 blade does at .5".


----------



## Herring

Nguyen1732 said:


> Hello my name is Nguyen and I'm from Richmond TX. I have a JD 220B and I came across your post about the Honda engine gx120. I think my engine is dying out and is releasing a lot of white smoke when I mow. I had an oil change and put in new spark plug. Carburetor is good also. I did some research and found that I can purchase a brand new Honda GX120 engine at Northern Tools. I want to confirm if it'll fit my 220B and is there any other parts I need to buy besides the engine? Thanks


@walk1355


----------



## LW50

Agree, if you can still cut with 75% of that reel, use it like training wheels. Get familiar with the machine, go chew some dirt while scalping and don't feel bad about it. Replace it when you're ready.


----------



## Nguyen1732

Thank you.


----------



## walk1355

Nguyen1732 said:


> Hello my name is Nguyen and I'm from Richmond TX. I have a JD 220B and I came across your post about the Honda engine gx120. I think my engine is dying out and is releasing a lot of white smoke when I mow. I had an oil change and put in new spark plug. Carburetor is good also. I did some research and found that I can purchase a brand new Honda GX120 engine at Northern Tools. I want to confirm if it'll fit my 220B and is there any other parts I need to buy besides the engine? Thanks


I'm not entirely sure, as I've never purchased a naked engine for one, but if you are handy enough, I'm sure it will work.

Did it recently start white smoking after the oil change? More than likely you overfilled the oil. Was the engine level when you filled it up with oil? How much did you put in? If the engine wasn't level when you filled it, and you filled it to the dipstick, it was probably overfilled. You have to prop up the roller with something to level the engine out usually.


----------



## Nguyen1732

I've changed the oil about 2X since I bought the 220B and it never emitted white smoke until now. I put about 16 ounces or 10w-30. I also kept the engine leveled when I poured in the oil. I'm not sure what else I could of did wrong. the original engine was on the unit when I bought it. I'm sure the engine will die eventually but I'm not sure if you know anyone on this forum who had to completely change it out with a new Honda Gx-120 engine. I can still mow with it but just have to deal with the white smoke


----------



## walk1355

Nguyen1732 said:


> I've changed the oil about 2X since I bought the 220B and it never emitted white smoke until now. I put about 16 ounces or 10w-30. I also kept the engine leveled when I poured in the oil. I'm not sure what else I could of did wrong. the original engine was on the unit when I bought it. I'm sure the engine will die eventually but I'm not sure if you know anyone on this forum who had to completely change it out with a new Honda Gx-120 engine. I can still mow with it but just have to deal with the white smoke


I have removed the engine from my mower, it is only held on by 4 bolts and the belt on the drive shaft, it's about 15 minute to remove it.

The only thing I'm not sure of is if you have to remove the drive shaft or if that's the standard drive shaft that drives the reel and drum belts.


----------



## Nguyen1732

Thank you.


----------



## gopack81

gopack81 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I purchased a John Deere 180 SL last October. I mowed with it a couple of times last year and had no problems. However, I was scalping my lawn a couple of weeks ago and towards the very end I noticed what seemed to be a grinding noise. I could only create the grinding noise when the clutch AND the reel were both engaged. I checked the reel to see if I could replicate the sound by spinning the reel by hand, and I couldn't. Any ideas what might be causing this?


Bump


----------



## adidasUNT8

Hey all. I'm having an issue with my JD220e. The mowing lever will not stay down unless I hold it the down position as I'm mowing. I've looked underneath and it appears that the part that usually catches is slipping off. Part number 5 on here appears to be the piece that keeps slipping off. Pardon my ignorance on how to fix this issue.


----------



## Hawkeye_311

Anyone know if a kickstand off a 220A, B or C or a 180B will fit on my original 220?


----------



## kay7711226

Any reel replacement project planned before the Spring season starts? Particularly on the 220's with stationary heads....


----------



## GreenLand

Hey guys,
I just picked up a 180C for $50. I plan to rebuild it. And run it here at the house by next spring. Its missings a couple parts, but the motor has compression idk how much as I dont have a compression tester. The starter recoil is missing and Im just turning it by hand.

I know this is an older thread, but are any guys who are familiar with these still around? I have a few questions. Thanks in advance.


----------



## AllisonN

GreenLand said:


> Hey guys,
> I just picked up a 180C for $50. I plan to rebuild it. And run it here at the house by next spring. Its missings a couple parts, but the motor has compression idk how much as I dont have a compression tester. The starter recoil is missing and Im just turning it by hand.
> 
> I know this is an older thread, but are any guys who are familiar with these still around? I have a few questions. Thanks in advance.


We are still here. Congrats!


----------



## SCGrassMan

Wow for $50 that's worth it for scrap alone! (Obviously don't scrap it though)

I'm gonna bet you can get that thing running for under $200.


----------



## GreenLand

Awesome! So with that... I'm pumped!!!. It did come with a bed knife installed and an extra knife. Guy I bought it from bought a few in an auction and likely used parts from this one on another. No biggie as I'll just piece meal it. First things first. Hosed her down and pulled the carb. Found the bowl to be full pf varnish and main jet clogged. I set the carb in a can of b12 chemtool carb cleaner. Used some 12g stranded wire to unclog the jet and nitro to blow the passages clear. The needle amd seat have like zero wear. Pulled the gas tank to clean it and it was as bad as the carb. The pulleys just have the pant worn off. Overall looks like a winner.
After all that I put the carb and tank back on and fired it up with an impact drill... Absolutely purrs like a kitten as they say.&#127867; I'd bet this thing only saw a season if that. I'll be on the lookout for parts as time goes. I'll be keeping this beast for some time. 
Looks like ill need: belts, reel chain, the cover that goes over the chains, cables for the clutch& parking brake to get it rolling. I'll need to figure how to setup the reel& bed knife.

So I and a neighbor plan to use this on our yards that probably total 6,000 sq. Ft.. What is the longevity of the bed knife? Thanks.


----------



## GreenLand

Oh and I'll need to source a grass catcher as well.


----------



## kay7711226

GreenLand said:


> Awesome! So with that... I'm pumped!!!. It did come with a bed knife installed and an extra knife. Guy I bought it from bought a few in an auction and likely used parts from this one on another. No biggie as I'll just piece meal it. First things first. Hosed her down and pulled the carb. Found the bowl to be full pf varnish and main jet clogged. I set the carb in a can of b12 chemtool carb cleaner. Used some 12g stranded wire to unclog the jet and nitro to blow the passages clear. The needle amd seat have like zero wear. Pulled the gas tank to clean it and it was as bad as the carb. The pulleys just have the pant worn off. Overall looks like a winner.
> After all that I put the carb and tank back on and fired it up with an impact drill... Absolutely purrs like a kitten as they say.🍻 I'd bet this thing only saw a season if that. I'll be on the lookout for parts as time goes. I'll be keeping this beast for some time.
> Looks like ill need: belts, reel chain, the cover that goes over the chains, cables for the clutch& parking brake to get it rolling. I'll need to figure how to setup the reel& bed knife.
> 
> So I and a neighbor plan to use this on our yards that probably total 6,000 sq. Ft.. What is the longevity of the bed knife? Thanks.


God bless your soul bro!


----------



## GreenLand

kay7711226 said:


> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! So with that... I'm pumped!!!. It did come with a bed knife installed and an extra knife. Guy I bought it from bought a few in an auction and likely used parts from this one on another. No biggie as I'll just piece meal it. First things first. Hosed her down and pulled the carb. Found the bowl to be full pf varnish and main jet clogged. I set the carb in a can of b12 chemtool carb cleaner. Used some 12g stranded wire to unclog the jet and nitro to blow the passages clear. The needle amd seat have like zero wear. Pulled the gas tank to clean it and it was as bad as the carb. The pulleys just have the pant worn off. Overall looks like a winner.
> After all that I put the carb and tank back on and fired it up with an impact drill... Absolutely purrs like a kitten as they say.🍻 I'd bet this thing only saw a season if that. I'll be on the lookout for parts as time goes. I'll be keeping this beast for some time.
> Looks like ill need: belts, reel chain, the cover that goes over the chains, cables for the clutch& parking brake to get it rolling. I'll need to figure how to setup the reel& bed knife.
> 
> So I and a neighbor plan to use this on our yards that probably total 6,000 sq. Ft.. What is the longevity of the bed knife? Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> God bless your soul bro!
Click to expand...

Thanks!!! I'll receive those blessings as they keep coming😁 Pics of the carb🤢 anyone smell the varnish...


----------



## Sphero43

I've been kinda sorta looking to get a greens mower for my 4k sq ft backyard. I go back and forth with it bc I really liked the look of my reno last fall when I cut it with a cheap Scott's reel mower, but I know a rotary mower is convenient. I need one or the other for the back since I find my ride on mower is tricky to navigate back there so I'll use that for the front only.

Anyway, I found this post and wonder what a reasonable price is for a JD220a? Is a $300 offer ridiculous?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/441103163815879/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post


----------



## psider25

Hi all  I am looking into getting into reel mowing. My yard has never been mowed lower than the lowest setting the toro super recycler rotary can go.

I don't think I can spend a grand or two on a reel mower and have so far found that most of what is available online in my area is JD 220 and toro GM 1000.

After reading through this thread the biggest concern I think I have is these greens mowers will be setup to mow too low for me and changing them to mow higher will be too expensive? Maybe?

Anyway I found a JD 220B (pic below) for $450 within a 1.5 hrs drive. What does anyone think about this mower for a first reel mower? ...fyi I have 100% KBG
Let me know if I should ask any questions, j am tentatively scheduled to pick it up Friday morning.


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

I'd snap that up in a heartbeat for that price


----------



## psider25

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> I'd snap that up in a heartbeat for that price


@Boy_meets_lawn I see you have a 220 E ...from the thread it looks like that is more user friendly to change out the reel if needed and can maybe deal with a higher height of cut than a 220 B? any advice on this? Will I be able to mow at 1 inch or even 1.25 or 1,5 inches with 220 B? maybe it doesnt even matter for me since I dont have the $$$ to spend $1500 or more right now?

fyi .... I was also looking into the Toro ProStripe 560 -- but it seems almost non-existent on the used market and it is rotary ...but back to the question at hand, just trying to understand more the real world application capability (HOC adjustment) of these JD 220 mowers for the homeowner lawn thanks again to everyone for the help and all the knowledge already in this thread


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

I think the 220b goes just a little over 1" height.

If your looking at greensmowers then you will probably end up cutting lower and lower because its kind of addictive. If you need a higher cutting height a used residential reel would probably be better.


----------



## GreenLand

Ok so does anyone know how high the 180c wil cut? Thanks in advance. Also what's a good john deer forum?


----------



## Bmossin

GreenLand said:


> Ok so does anyone know how high the 180c wil cut? Thanks in advance. Also what's a good john deer forum?


Figure an inch might be the max.

https://techpubs.deere.com/en-US/Search/Equipment

https://techinfo-omview.apps-prod-vpn.us.e06.c01.johndeerecloud.com/legacy/cceomview/omtcu22823_a9/Output/Index.html


----------



## jha4aamu

GreenLand said:


> Ok so does anyone know how high the 180c wil cut? Thanks in advance. Also what's a good john deer forum?


Your HOC is probably going to be slightly higher than 1.7". And that would be with the 3" front roller as opposed to the 2".


----------



## GreenLand

jha4aamu said:


> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok so does anyone know how high the 180c wil cut? Thanks in advance. Also what's a good john deer forum?
> 
> 
> 
> Your HOC is probably going to be slightly higher than 1.7". And that would be with the 3" front roller as opposed to the 2".
Click to expand...

Gotcha. thank you.. I'll keep this in mind.


----------



## psider25

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> I think the 220b goes just a little over 1" height.
> 
> If your looking at greensmowers then you will probably end up cutting lower and lower because its kind of addictive. If you need a higher cutting height a used residential reel would probably be better.


Does the front roller have to be changed to a bigger one to get over 1"? I couldn't tell from the use manual online.

There are quite a few JD and Toro GM used for sale in relatively close online classifieds, but no used residential reels...


----------



## AllisonN

psider25 said:


> Boy_meets_lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think the 220b goes just a little over 1" height.
> 
> If your looking at greensmowers then you will probably end up cutting lower and lower because its kind of addictive. If you need a higher cutting height a used residential reel would probably be better.
> 
> 
> 
> Does the front roller have to be changed to a bigger one to get over 1"? I couldn't tell from the use manual online.
> 
> There are quite a few JD and Toro GM used for sale in relatively close online classifieds, but no used residential reels...
Click to expand...

Yes.


----------



## Sphero43

Never having used a greens mower, how well do they work on slopes? I have a slight incline in the backyard. 
Is $500 reasonable for a JD220A?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/441103163815879/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post


----------



## GreenLand

I'd pay $500+ for a complete and running JD.

That said... Anyone know of a used parts source for JD reel mower parts? Thanks


----------



## potterwc

Anyone know the parts number or size of the drive belt required for a 220E? I have read through manual and I see where it shows to replace it, but I have not found the specs of the belt or the part number to order it.


----------



## AllisonN

potterwc said:


> Anyone know the parts number or size of the drive belt required for a 220E? I have read through manual and I see where it shows to replace it, but I have not found the specs of the belt or the part number to order it.


https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/74880


----------



## potterwc

Awesome thank you!


----------



## dmouw

I have a 260SL and it is all the sudden hard turning around. I don't know what changed it used to turn around easily but nowi have to half way turn while still engaged so I don't have to man handle it to turn around? is something out of wack or is there an adjustment?


----------



## Hawkeye_311

dmouw said:


> I have a 260SL and it is all the sudden hard turning around. I don't know what changed it used to turn around easily but nowi have to half way turn while still engaged so I don't have to man handle it to turn around? is something out of wack or is there an adjustment?


When was the last time you greased the rear cylinder roller?


----------



## Jeff20

Good evening everyone, I will be picking up a JD 220A this Sunday, and very excited for the upgrade. Just wanted to know if general parts are available for this model? Tks for any replies.


----------



## Hawkeye_311

Jeff20 said:


> Good evening everyone, I will be picking up a JD 220A this Sunday, and very excited for the upgrade. Just wanted to know if general parts are available for this model? Tks for any replies.


Yes parts are available. I have a JD 220 and I will say because these are older models not every genuine JD part is still available. You can still find after market parts for whatever JD doesn't still offer.
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/59759


----------



## Jeff20

Thanks for the information. I can't wait to get it


----------



## JoeMcD

Hey all today while mowing I guess I engaged the reel to hard or to fast and now I'm getting this clunky ringing sound it seems from the pulley on the motor I guess this is a type of clutch pulley? If so has anyone had luck finding one and replacing it??


----------



## claydus

JoeMcD said:


> Hey all today while mowing I guess I engaged the reel to hard or to fast and now I'm getting this clunky ringing sound it seems from the pulley on the motor I guess this is a type of clutch pulley? If so has anyone had luck finding one and replacing it??


There is a John Deere turf dealer in South Carolina that I had to purchase the engagement pulley from. I couldn't find the part on ebay or any other site. My bearings were totally shot in the pulley.


----------



## JoeMcD

claydus said:


> JoeMcD said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all today while mowing I guess I engaged the reel to hard or to fast and now I'm getting this clunky ringing sound it seems from the pulley on the motor I guess this is a type of clutch pulley? If so has anyone had luck finding one and replacing it??
> 
> 
> 
> There is a John Deere turf dealer in South Carolina that I had to purchase the engagement pulley from. I couldn't find the part on ebay or any other site. My bearings were totally shot in the pulley.
Click to expand...

What I cost if you don't mind?


----------



## claydus

JoeMcD said:


> What I cost if you don't mind?


It was $30 per the John Deere Catalog. It's called "sheave" instead of a pulley.

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/partdetails/partnum/AMT758/referrer/sbs/pid/679237/pgId/11558747/eqId/58747/snp/MTE1NTg3NDc6UEFHRVsxMDYxOiNCVVNJTkVTU19SRUdJT04sNTMzOTojQ0FUQUxPRyw1ODc0NzpFUVVJUE1FTlQsOTIyODk3OkNIQVBURVJd

If you take off the JD belt cover. It's the top pulley. That's where my noise issues and rough engagement came from.


----------



## jjmanton

Does anyone happen to have the official Honda service manual for the gx120 motor? I have the Deere one, but I wanted to see if the Honda one had more details.

Thanks!


----------



## lbb091919

Edit: Found a few, including what looks to be a couple detailed service manuals.

Shop Manual 1: https://www.honda-engines-eu.com/documents/10912/31967/1535/713456ba-4c1c-4354-a03a-267d7a02d734

Shop Manual 2: https://www.wincogen.com/wp-content/uploads/PD/Engines/GX160_SM.pdf

Owner's Manual: https://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/engines/pdf/manuals/31ZH7600.pdf


----------



## GreenLand

Nice find!!!&#128175;


----------



## bodean731

HOC question for my 220B.......I've got it set to 7/16", but want to go to 5/16". I have "room" on the right adjustment knob/bolt, but the left seems maxed out (can't move it any more). Can i adjust the screws on the bolt to "reset" or "recalibrate" on the left side so I can go lower? Pics included.


----------



## cnet24

First complete season with my JD220E. I thought about switching to a 7 blade reel this off-season due to my HOC, but for now I'm trying to make my 11 blade reel work.

I am getting the washboard effect already and understand it is due to an FOC issue. Luckily, I have the ability to change that on my 220e but so far any adjustment I have made has not changed the after cut appearance. Is the only fix here going to a 7 blade reel?

HOC: .350"
FOC range tried: .028"-0.38"


----------



## nwga_lawn

@bodean731 I have a 220B also. I'm pretty sure I tried this and it made no difference. I couldn't get my HOC any where near 1in. May have to change to a thicker front roller to get any more higher.


----------



## Jeff20

Changing differential fluid are gear box fluid. Not totally sure what it's called. What kind do I use ? I have a 220A. And I just noticed the belts are bad. How hard are they to change out ? What size are they. Can I get them at a auto supply house? Thanks for all your help.


----------



## JoeMcD

Jeff20 said:


> Changing differential fluid are gear box fluid. Not totally sure what it's called. What kind do I use ? I have a 220A. And I just noticed the belts are bad. How hard are they to change out ? What size are they. Can I get them at a auto supply house? Thanks for all your help.


If they are the same as the belts on my 220C they are A22 belt, some on Amazon!

Fluid is John Deere Hy-guard, on Amazon also,


----------



## GreenLand

&#128175;&#127867;


----------



## Phids

Jeff20 said:


> Changing differential fluid are gear box fluid. Not totally sure what it's called. What kind do I use ? I have a 220A. And I just noticed the belts are bad. How hard are they to change out ? What size are they. Can I get them at a auto supply house? Thanks for all your help.


I'm wondering what makes you say your belts are bad, because I'm trying to figure out whether I need to change out the belts on my JD-180 that I bought used recently.


----------



## GreenLand

I need belts for my 180c as well. Kinda wonder if they are all the same. Does anyone by chance mind taking off the chain cover and snapping a pic? I am missing a few parts and would like to see what's actually missing.


----------



## Jeff20

Phids said:


> Jeff20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Changing differential fluid are gear box fluid. Not totally sure what it's called. What kind do I use ? I have a 220A. And I just noticed the belts are bad. How hard are they to change out ? What size are they. Can I get them at a auto supply house? Thanks for all your help.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wondering what makes you say your belts are bad, because I'm trying to figure out whether I need to change out the belts on my JD-180 that I bought used recently.
Click to expand...

As I was checking out the belts, slowly turning them I could see a big cut in one of them.


----------



## Jeff20

Phids said:


> Jeff20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Changing differential fluid are gear box fluid. Not totally sure what it's called. What kind do I use ? I have a 220A. And I just noticed the belts are bad. How hard are they to change out ? What size are they. Can I get them at a auto supply house? Thanks for all your help.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm wondering what makes you say your belts are bad, because I'm trying to figure out whether I need to change out the belts on my JD-180 that I bought used recently.
Click to expand...

As I was checking out the belts, slowly turning them I could see a big cut in one of them.


----------



## bhutchinson87

I think it's a good idea to just go ahead and change the belts, and a few other things, after buying the mower (unless they look new) for peace of mind. The hard part is getting the tension just right again lol


----------



## Jeff20

That's what I'm doing, Oil, Speed Reducer Oil, Belts, Plug, Carb, Greasing all the zerks. I found 11 so for, not sure if there are any behind the drive covers. And I haven't even got around to taking the side covers off yet to inspect the chains. Getting the reel sharpened. Way more to a greens mower then my trucut. Just being patient,


----------



## GreenLand

Jeff20 said:


> That's what I'm doing, Oil, Speed Reducer Oil, Belts, Plug, Carb, Greasing all the zerks. I found 11 so for, not sure if there are any behind the drive covers. And I haven't even got around to taking the side covers off yet to inspect the chains. Getting the reel sharpened. Way more to a greens mower then my trucut. Just being patient,


Hey when you inspect the chains do you mind posting a pic of that side? I would like to get an idea of what I may be missing. I know a chain and possibly chain tension pulleys, but a pic would help.


----------



## Jeff20

GreenLand said:


> Jeff20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I'm doing, Oil, Speed Reducer Oil, Belts, Plug, Carb, Greasing all the zerks. I found 11 so for, not sure if there are any behind the drive covers. And I haven't even got around to taking the side covers off yet to inspect the chains. Getting the reel sharpened. Way more to a greens mower then my trucut. Just being patient,
> 
> 
> 
> Hey when you inspect the chains do you mind posting a pic of that side? I would like to get an idea of what I may be missing. I know a chain and possibly chain tension pulleys, but a pic would help.
Click to expand...

Ok. Going out of town, want be back until Sunday night. A quick funny story. Last night I started my mower and let warm up and once it warmed up, I cut it off and drained the oil. Then I filled it up with Mystery Marvel Oil and let it soak for a few hours. Then drained that, and then filled it up with fresh oil. Then I cranked it and it started right up after a coulpe of seconds it started spurting, and cut off, sadly I could'nt get it to start. I did'nt want to tell the wife. I had to sleep on it all night thinking about. So thinking it flooded. I tried this morning before wk. Nope. Was sick all day. Got home still no go, like wow, all I did was mess w/ the oil. Then, like Christmas Vaction I cut the gas level to the fuel line on and 1st crank Holy lou ya. WHAT A DUMMY. I had the fuel cut off. So now I can tell my wife. Made my week end.


----------



## GreenLand

Jeff20 said:


> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I'm doing, Oil, Speed Reducer Oil, Belts, Plug, Carb, Greasing all the zerks. I found 11 so for, not sure if there are any behind the drive covers. And I haven't even got around to taking the side covers off yet to inspect the chains. Getting the reel sharpened. Way more to a greens mower then my trucut. Just being patient,
> 
> 
> 
> Hey when you inspect the chains do you mind posting a pic of that side? I would like to get an idea of what I may be missing. I know a chain and possibly chain tension pulleys, but a pic would help.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok. Going out of town, want be back until Sunday night. A quick funny story. Last night I started my mower and let warm up and once it warmed up, I cut it off and drained the oil. Then I filled it up with Mystery Marvel Oil and let it soak for a few hours. Then drained that, and then filled it up with fresh oil. Then I cranked it and it started right up after a coulpe of seconds it started spurting, and cut off, sadly I could'nt get it to start. I did'nt want to tell the wife. I had to sleep on it all night thinking about. So thinking it flooded. I tried this morning before wk. Nope. Was sick all day. Got home still no go, like wow, all I did was mess w/ the oil. Then, like Christmas Vaction I cut the gas level to the fuel line on and 1st crank Holy lou ya. WHAT A DUMMY. I had the fuel cut off. So now I can tell my wife. Made my week end.
Click to expand...

Lol that's a good one man. Hey good thing it was something simple. These honda engines run smooth man better then any I've come across yet. :thumbup: :lol:


----------



## drenglish

Hey guys and gals, anyone notice a change in reading of HOC after tightening the nuts down on the front roller bracket with a JD 180b or 220A? The newer SL and E cuts are a little different and I haven't checked this yet on my 220E.

After setting the HOC to 0.25" with the bracket nut loosened I adjust both sides, recheck and then start to tighten. As I do my accu-gauge dial shows a change to +/- 0.01"-0.02". Not terrible if both sides equaled each other in the end...but to take the time before tightening to adjust each end and then it come undone is annoying.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong with adjusting/reading/ and then securing.


----------



## sreekanth251

I have JD 180 SL not cutting paper in the middle. On the corners it cuts fine, It got new bed knife and reel grind last week.
Do I need to adjust reel to bed knife and backlap to cut it in the middle?


----------



## Myersbuck

Let me know if you have one please. Thanks!


----------



## soupy01833

sreekanth251 said:


> I have JD 180 SL not cutting paper in the middle. On the corners it cuts fine, It got new bed knife and reel grind last week.
> Do I need to adjust reel to bed knife and backlap to cut it in the middle?


someone on the toro thread had the same problem
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=26794&p=380347#p380347


----------



## claydus

sreekanth251 said:


> I have JD 180 SL not cutting paper in the middle. On the corners it cuts fine, It got new bed knife and reel grind last week.
> Do I need to adjust reel to bed knife and backlap to cut it in the middle?


Either two things are going on:

1. Bedknives are not always truly flat. A bedknife grind may be in order. Or you could try a few backlapping rounds.
2. Reel has worn down the in middle. I would try to measure the diameter to check. Worst case buy a new reel.

I would start with #1 and few backlapping attempts. Focus on the outside with heavy passes. Then work your way to middle and do a lite lapping.


----------



## cnet24

cnet24 said:


> First complete season with my JD220E. I thought about switching to a 7 blade reel this off-season due to my HOC, but for now I'm trying to make my 11 blade reel work.
> 
> I am getting the washboard effect already and understand it is due to an FOC issue. Luckily, I have the ability to change that on my 220e but so far any adjustment I have made has not changed the after cut appearance. Is the only fix here going to a 7 blade reel?
> 
> HOC: .350"
> FOC range tried: .028"-0.38"


Quoting my post to see if anyone can help. Thanks!


----------



## soupy01833

maybe just a fairway cut/tournament cut thicker bedknife might do the trick


----------



## GreenLand

That does seem to be the issue from reading on this issue. Bedknife thickness/ angle into the grass blades.


----------



## g-man

@cnet24 I think that's the machine bouncing from uneven surface. Try mowing 90 degrees or add sand and slow down the travel speed.


----------



## Pete1313

cnet24 said:


> First complete season with my JD220E. I thought about switching to a 7 blade reel this off-season due to my HOC, but for now I'm trying to make my 11 blade reel work.
> 
> I am getting the washboard effect already and understand it is due to an FOC issue. Luckily, I have the ability to change that on my 220e but so far any adjustment I have made has not changed the after cut appearance. Is the only fix here going to a 7 blade reel?
> 
> HOC: .350"
> FOC range tried: .028"-0.38"


Cut more frequently. If you are cutting every 3 days, try cutting every 2 days. Taking too much off at once could be the cause. Alternate your cut direction each mow and slow down. If none of those suggestions work, but guessing they will, then start thinking about cutting unit setup (bedknife attitude, roller setup, new bedknife, new reel) and adding some sand.


----------



## cnet24

Thanks @soupy01833, @GreenLand, @g-man, & @Pete1313.

Bobbing is probably the cause. I sanded the lawn last year- I also should mention that my front lawn slopes down and away from this point in my pictures, and wondering if that is causing this as well as it is not a flat surface.


----------



## claydus

Anyone permanently remove their GTC? Looking for parts TCA16576 and MT6821


----------



## kay7711226

Is it normal to have grease coming from the Reel cap on the right side of the mower? Noticing it a bit more lately, I try sticking to the recommended "Lubricate reel" Every 10hrs per the service manual, about 2 squeeze with the gun hope I am not over doing it.


----------



## Longtee81

cnet24 said:


> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> First complete season with my JD220E. I thought about switching to a 7 blade reel this off-season due to my HOC, but for now I'm trying to make my 11 blade reel work.
> 
> I am getting the washboard effect already and understand it is due to an FOC issue. Luckily, I have the ability to change that on my 220e but so far any adjustment I have made has not changed the after cut appearance. Is the only fix here going to a 7 blade reel?
> 
> HOC: .350"
> FOC range tried: .028"-0.38"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quoting my post to see if anyone can help. Thanks!
Click to expand...

I have a 7 blade and 11 blade 220e, that I alternate between. I had this issue come up last season with both mowers. I had to vary my direction and it seems to be much better. I don't think it's the number of blades that would be causing this issue you are seeing.


----------



## ReelMowLow74

Just purchased a new (to me) 2015 220SL and am going to be replacing the bedknife with a new fairway height knife (part RET17532). Was just looking under the mower and these screws look to be in pretty bad shape, and someone previously used a punch to loosen them at some point. I'm planning to use some PB blaster, some heat, and impact type driver... any other tips or tricks to break these things loose? Can't say I'm looking forward to it!!


----------



## soupy01833

i used an impact driver. most came out, 2 of the stubborn ones i had to use a punch to get them out


----------



## JoeMcD

This is the pulley on the motor output shaft, does anyone know if this is a clutch type pulley or is it just a straight pulley? I have a noise everytime I engage the reel and I think it's coming from this pulley?


----------



## soupy01833

what do you all do for zerks that seem to not take grease?


----------



## Txmx583

soupy01833 said:


> what do you all do for zerks that seem to not take grease?


They are easy to replace with a 6 or 8mm wrench. I would try that first maybe 🤷🏻‍♂️


----------



## ReelMowLow74

Pulled the chain guards off and replaced them today... they were in rough shape and were cracked pretty bad. Noticed the chains were extremely loose even with the tensioner adjusted as far as it could go. New chains are on their way. Crazy how far they can stretch.


----------



## soupy01833

Txmx583 said:


> soupy01833 said:
> 
> 
> 
> what do you all do for zerks that seem to not take grease?
> 
> 
> 
> They are easy to replace with a 6 or 8mm wrench. I would try that first maybe 🤷🏻‍♂️
Click to expand...

what size are the Zerks. in a 220E. the reel ones are bigger than the ones in the roller?


----------



## ReelMowLow74

Does anybody have a mechanic or shop in north Dallas that can change a bedknife? Whoever had this mower before me gummed up the bedknife screws really bad and I just want to have someone who has experience with these units swap it out.


----------



## Jeff20

ReelMowLow74 said:


> Does anybody have a mechanic or shop in north Dallas that can change a bedknife? Whoever had this mower before me gummed up the bedknife screws really bad and I just want to have someone who has experience with these units swap it out.


Try your local golf courses, one of them should be able to do it. You might just have to wait, As they might be a lttle busy this time of year.


----------



## Herring

Opened the GTC to reinstall a large snap ring that wasn't in the reassemble instructions from the technical manual that I saw. The gasket is a replacement, I was surprised it's like cardboard as I'm almost certain the original was rubber that fell apart. I'm having a tough time getting the main gear seated flush with the larger idler gear, any tricks to do this? Will tightening the shoulder bolt and spring help?


----------



## ReelMowLow74

Jeff20 said:


> ReelMowLow74 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody have a mechanic or shop in north Dallas that can change a bedknife? Whoever had this mower before me gummed up the bedknife screws really bad and I just want to have someone who has experience with these units swap it out.
> 
> 
> 
> Try your local golf courses, one of them should be able to do it. You might just have to wait, As they might be a lttle busy this time of year.
Click to expand...

Well after a frustrating evening, I went back and was able to get them off this morning. Thank you, still a good idea to probably call a local course and establish a relationship. I also found that one side of the shoe where the bedknife attaches was missing the bolt.


----------



## txfour

TonyC said:


> Bmossin said:
> 
> 
> 
> One of the 260B's I am working on, the clutch drive level will not stay engaged while driving so it slowly works its way back to neutral. Is the lower cable the best place to start trying to correct? Anyone ever have a similar issue?
> 
> 
> 
> You'll need to share some more information, but I'm guessing that your operator bail is not latching the drive lever, and the lever is being returned by the tension spring down at the belt engagement.
> 
> Look under the handlebar cover, and watch for the action between item #2, #5, and #12. These parts action together to both lockout the drive lever (when the bail is not being held), and lock it in drive based on the position when the operator bail is being held.
> 
> The operator bail is supposed to move part #2 which moves the lock out out of the way, and also #5 which latches the drive lever #12 and keeps it engaged until the bail is released. It sounds like this latching of the drive lever is not happening in your situation.
> 
> On my SL mower (second image), the latching occurs in the red circle in this image.
Click to expand...

I am having a similar issue. Mine engages but as i hit bumps or irregularities, it kicks into neutral.

Any ideas?


----------



## adidasUNT8

How difficult would it be to install either a rotary brush or a GTC/verticutter on a JD 220E? HOC is .5" Would it be worth the investment to install?


----------



## lbb091919

I've seen that it can cost a couple thousand to add a GTC.


----------



## soupy01833

I am lost. My 220E was cutting fine., I finished for the day. cleaned it and greased the reel zerks,. take it out today and the reel does not spin when engaged, It does spin freely by hand just not while engaged, Putting it in backlap mode i did get it to spin once and then I tried to use it and it is back to not turning, In backlap mode the reel spins maybe an inch and stops. I have no idea what it could be., it does this every time i turn the switch to engage the reels in backlap mode. I would normally think the reel is bound up but it spins just fine with no metal to metal contact,

note:" the diagnostic lights never worked from the time I bought the 220e so that is of no use.

could it be the alternator? any body reel good at 220E repair?


----------



## soupy01833

soupy01833 said:


> I am lost. My 220E was cutting fine., I finished for the day. cleaned it and greased the reel zerks,. take it out today and the reel does not spin when engaged, It does spin freely by hand just not while engaged, Putting it in backlap mode i did get it to spin once and then I tried to use it and it is back to not turning, In backlap mode the reel spins maybe an inch and stops. I have no idea what it could be., it does this every time i turn the switch to engage the reels in backlap mode. I would normally think the reel is bound up but it spins just fine with no metal to metal contact,
> 
> note:" the diagnostic lights never worked from the time I bought the 220e so that is of no use.
> 
> could it be the alternator? any body reel good at 220E repair?


Just took the cover off the alternator and the belt is very loose. think i found the culprit. no idea how it became so loose overnight though, belt looks fairly new.


----------



## potterwc

My 220E did something very similar last week and it turned out to be a bad reel motor. I have a contact that helps me with my mower issues and I went to a course that had a JD mechanic. $600 for a new motor, but it should be an easy fix once I get a chance to work on it.


----------



## soupy01833

Alternator belt tightened. We are back in business Early morning cut on the way


----------



## bhutchinson87

New belts tend to stretch after the first few uses. Glad you're back up and running :thumbsup:


----------



## lbb091919

Was checking reel to bedknife this evening and noticed something strange. About an inch of the outside of the reel isn't making contact on one side and the other is very tight. For example, I can fit my .002" feeler on the right but can't get a .001" through the opposite side. The middle is pretty tight too. It's making a nasty squeak when I turn the reel as if it's way too tight but I loosen it any and it won't cut paper. I tried to get a pic, you can see the rusted portion that's not making contact with the bedknife.

What's the procedure to address this? Do I close the reel to bedknife gradually and backlap until that 1" section is even with the rest of the reel? The bedknife doesn't look bent or damaged in any way.


----------



## kay7711226

lbb091919 said:


> Was checking reel to bedknife this evening and noticed something strange. About an inch of the outside of the reel isn't making contact on one side and the other is very tight. For example, I can fit my .002" feeler on the right but can't get a .001" through the opposite side. The middle is pretty tight too. It's making a nasty squeak when I turn the reel as if it's way too tight but I loosen it any and it won't cut paper. I tried to get a pic, you can see the rusted portion that's not making contact with the bedknife.
> 
> What's the procedure to address this? Do I close the reel to bedknife gradually and backlap until that 1" section is even with the rest of the reel? The bedknife doesn't look bent or damaged in any way.


"Cone shaped reel. Reels eventually become tapered or cone shaped with use. A cone shaped reel is an indicator that it is due for a grind. A fresh grind returns the reel to a cylinder shape. You would use a pi tape at each end of the reel to determine how much it is tapered. See service limit above."

see the used greens mower buying guide https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=7365


----------



## lbb091919

Is it considered a cone shaped reel even if just that small section isn't touching?

The rest of the reel is pretty tight. I'm gonna backlap and might just live with it until the off-season and look into getting a fresh grind.


----------



## kay7711226

You can measure the diameter at both ends and middle to confirm as described in the thread, if not cone shape then something else, misalignment?


----------



## uts

Can anybody explain why a used 220SL is generally more expensive on the used market than a 220e? Similar age/use etc?


----------



## soupy01833

some dont like the electric drive on the reel of the 220e


----------



## Deltahedge

What is the purpose of adjusting the eccentric on the rear roller of an SL mower? 
Is this an adjustment to make sure the front roller and the rear roller are parallel with each other? 
Is it an adjustment to make sure the bed knife has a uniform HOC?

I haven't adjusted mine after putting the mower back together, so I am sure it needs an adjustment. I'm not sure how to go about adjusting it, even after reading the manual. I'm also unsure what performance gain I can expect after it's properly adjusted.


----------



## uts

Asking this for a friend who isnt on this forum. He came across this 220SL. I know it's difficult to see in pictures but can anyone say anything overtly wrong.


----------



## soupy01833

looks good to me, there is a lot of life left on that reel as well. cannot see the bedknife but those are cheap.


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

Deltahedge said:


> What is the purpose of adjusting the eccentric on the rear roller of an SL mower?
> Is this an adjustment to make sure the front roller and the rear roller are parallel with each other?
> Is it an adjustment to make sure the bed knife has a uniform HOC?
> 
> I haven't adjusted mine after putting the mower back together, so I am sure it needs an adjustment. I'm not sure how to go about adjusting it, even after reading the manual. I'm also unsure what performance gain I can expect after it's properly adjusted.


Its used to level the rear roller. Ideally you want both the front and rear rollers parallel so you don't get visible lines showing up from one side being a slightly different height. If you have a close to true flat surface you can get it close enough in my opinion without a tool.


----------



## walk1355

uts said:


> Asking this for a friend who isnt on this forum. He came across this 220SL. I know it's difficult to see in pictures but can anyone say anything overtly wrong.


the only thing I see out of place is the speedlink bar isn't stored where it should be.


----------



## Jack2012

Chasing parts #6 & 7 in pic if anyone can help with some used ones?


----------



## Deltahedge

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> Its used to level the rear roller. Ideally you want both the front and rear rollers parallel so you don't get visible lines showing up from one side being a slightly different height. If you have a close to true flat surface you can get it close enough in my opinion without a tool.


Ok. I think it makes sense to me now. I see how it can level the rear roller to the bedknife. I think you can level the front roller by independently changing the HOC on one side vs the other on the front roller. I would guess adjusting the eccentric to get it level with the bedknife should be step one before adjusting the HOC on each side of the front roller.


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

Yes, that's correct. Ideally you would use a bench plate which you can make or buy. I just found a flat piece of steel and got mine close enough. Maybe once I get my reel ground I'll have them do a full once over and get everything square.


----------



## soupy01833

this is my first season with my 220E. I have the HOC range set at 6 and the FOC set at 5.
I have a brand new 7 blade reel and New bedknife that is the fairway cut version. I cut as .75 inches.

it cuts really well other then the fact I am getting waves. Are my settings ok for that HOC? Is there something I could tweak to help with the waves?


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

You could try the front roller on 5 as it still is within your hoc range and you could also try to increase the foc.


----------



## soupy01833

5 is as high as it goes for FOC. i can try 5 for the roller setting as well
however, it seems for now I might just have to double cut until i get this under control, lots of heat and rain in the NC area has caused my lawn to explode. not a bad thing just means cutting every other day


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

Ya, its getting hot now and you may need to cut more frequently. If you lower the front roller 1 setting it should give you a more aggressive angle and may help out some.


----------



## soupy01833

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> Ya, its getting hot now and you may need to cut more frequently. If you lower the front roller 1 setting it should give you a more aggressive angle and may help out some.


I think lowering the roller height to 5 helped. Changed it dfrom 6 to 5
and reset the HOC back to 3/4 and tonight's cut was so much better. Thanks for the advice


----------



## gregfromohio

Looking at a 260B. Owner is asking $700. Just been sharpened. What is the value of this machine? I was thinking no more than $500..... Also what is the cut height range? Thanks!!!


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

gregfromohio said:


> Looking at a 260B. Owner is asking $700. Just been sharpened. What is the value of this machine? I was thinking no more than $500..... Also what is the cut height range? Thanks!!!


If its in cutting shape and runs well I'd personally pay $700 for it locally. The 26" machines are harder to find and prices are all over the place. Used prices for these mowers are trending up as the golf course youtube lawn craze is in full swing.


----------



## Herring

gregfromohio said:


> Looking at a 260B. Owner is asking $700. Just been sharpened. What is the value of this machine? I was thinking no more than $500..... Also what is the cut height range? Thanks!!!


I believe the max height of cut is 7/8" and down to 1/8" depending on the bedknife.


----------



## csmitty

Jack2012 said:


> Chasing parts #6 & 7 in pic if anyone can help with some used ones?


I have a set. Send me a PM if still needed.


----------



## csmitty

adidasUNT8 said:


> How difficult would it be to install either a rotary brush or a GTC/verticutter on a JD 220E? HOC is .5" Would it be worth the investment to install?


I have some used parts that would make it more economical vs new if your still interested.


----------



## Brock649

joeker said:


> Gibby said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gibby said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ever figure this out? Mine is having the same issue. Reel spins freely by hand and no flashing trouble light.
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed. Had to adjust alternator belt per the manual.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @Gibby I apologize. Did not see this notification until now. I'll give this a whirl and see if it fixes my mower as well.
> 
> EDIT: @Gibby I did this today and it completely fixed my issues! Thanks!!!
Click to expand...

I just received my 220E from turfnet.com, I'm having the same issue. The reel will spin freely by hand, but when I engage the blade it starts to turn for 1 second and then stops. After several attempts of switching the pro switch back and forth the reel will begin to spin. I'm completely new to the reel mowing game and do not know much about this mower. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## soupy01833

remove the 3 screws on the alternator cover and tighten the alternator belt.


----------



## Brock649

soupy01833 said:


> remove the 3 screws on the alternator cover and tighten the alternator belt.


Just did it and it works beautifully now!


----------



## GamerGoddess38

Quick question about my JD 220SL. From my understanding theirs two types of grease I should be using on it but I can only find one type of grease on any manual I look up. What type of grease should I be using? And if I do need two different types of grease, what type & where at on my JD should I be using it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## soupy01833

in a 220 e they recommend these 2
The following greases are preferred:

John Deere Special Purpose Golf and Turf Cutting Unit Grease
John Deere Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease

the golf and turf is for the reel only 
the polyurea is used everywhere else

not sure if it is the same for the SL


----------



## GamerGoddess38

soupy01833 said:


> in a 220 e they recommend these 2
> The following greases are preferred:
> 
> John Deere Special Purpose Golf and Turf Cutting Unit Grease
> John Deere Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease
> 
> the golf and turf is for the reel only
> the polyurea is used everywhere else
> 
> not sure if it is the same for the SL


Yes, that's what I've been finding. Everything that I've read talks about the two types of grease for the 220E. The manual I've looked up only mentions the John Deere Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease. I'm looking for a answer that is specifically for the JD 220SL as the manual does not mention anything about the other grease.


----------



## jemerson2196

I bought a 220a 4 years ago, finally found time to work on it. Pulled the carb, cleaned it, still doesn't stay running without ether in the intake. Few questions - does anyone have a schematic / parts photo of the carb on a 220a? Does anyone know of a place I could purchase a carb (specific websites)?

Thanks,

Jon


----------



## uts

GamerGoddess38 said:


> soupy01833 said:
> 
> 
> 
> in a 220 e they recommend these 2
> The following greases are preferred:
> 
> John Deere Special Purpose Golf and Turf Cutting Unit Grease
> John Deere Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease
> 
> the golf and turf is for the reel only
> the polyurea is used everywhere else
> 
> not sure if it is the same for the SL
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's what I've been finding. Everything that I've read talks about the two types of grease for the 220E. The manual I've looked up only mentions the John Deere Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease. I'm looking for a answer that is specifically for the JD 220SL as the manual does not mention anything about the other grease.
Click to expand...

Pete1313 has a great thread for a 220sl. He mentioned in his thread this:

John Deere recommends using John Deere Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease or an NLGI grade No.2 equivalent grease

This is the link

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1500&p=27682&hilit=Grease#p27682


----------



## GamerGoddess38

uts said:


> GamerGoddess38 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> soupy01833 said:
> 
> 
> 
> in a 220 e they recommend these 2
> The following greases are preferred:
> 
> John Deere Special Purpose Golf and Turf Cutting Unit Grease
> John Deere Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease
> Thank you very much.
> 
> the golf and turf is for the reel only
> the polyurea is used everywhere else
> 
> not sure if it is the same for the SL
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's what I've been finding. Everything that I've read talks about the two types of grease for the 220E. The manual I've looked up only mentions the John Deere Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease. I'm looking for a answer that is specifically for the JD 220SL as the manual does not mention anything about the other grease.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Pete1313 has a great thread for a 220sl. He mentioned in his thread this:
> 
> John Deere recommends using John Deere Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease or an NLGI grade No.2 equivalent grease
> 
> This is the link
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1500&p=27682&hilit=Grease#p27682
Click to expand...


----------



## GreenLand

Sounds like the main jet is still clogged. I had to soak in a gallon of carb cleaner and poke through mine to get it clear. Also blow out the passages in the carb.



jemerson2196 said:


> I bought a 220a 4 years ago, finally found time to work on it. Pulled the carb, cleaned it, still doesn't stay running without ether in the intake. Few questions - does anyone have a schematic / parts photo of the carb on a 220a? Does anyone know of a place I could purchase a carb (specific websites)?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Jon


----------



## itslogz

Will any other model grass catchers fit a 220e or does it have to specifically be from a 220e or 2500e cutting unit


----------



## Rookie_zoysia

Quick question, I have a small 2500ish sqft yard but could get a retired greens mower from a golf course at a good price.

1) How does the roller handle traversing concrete?

2) Is 22in too big for some tighter turns?

3) Can I change the HOC at home with a lift of some sort?

Thanks for ya'lls help in advance. I'm a noob, but around golf courses all the time and love the idea of mowing reel low.


----------



## jha4aamu

1. its loud but i dont think you will do any serious damage, assuming you are just traversing an average driveway 3x/week

2. they arent really made for navigating tight turns but you can make it work after you get used to learning how the machine handles.

3. Changing the HOC is pretty easy, esp on the SL models


----------



## Rookie_zoysia

jha4aamu said:


> 1. its loud but i dont think you will do any serious damage, assuming you are just traversing an average driveway 3x/week
> 
> 2. they arent really made for navigating tight turns but you can make it work after you get used to learning how the machine handles.
> 
> 3. Changing the HOC is pretty easy, esp on the SL models


Thanks. I think you've convinced me. I've mowed plenty of greens with the John Deere, but never on something that was surrounded by concrete/driveway/sidewalk.


----------



## kay7711226

My 220A recoil pull starter spring just broke, do they sell only the spring or should I just go after the full assy and replace it? Anyone replaced and where did you purchase?


----------



## soupy01833

they do just sell the spring., it is just a honda engine


----------



## melliott2005

I am looking pretty closely at a JD 260B. My question for those who are more familiar with JD greensmowers is how easy it is to adjust the HOC "on the fly." I have 419 in the front I keep at around 0.5" and zoysia in the back that gets a bit of shade that I maintain around 1". I'd like to transition from my TruCut to a greensmower, but my concern is how much of a hassle it would be to adjust the HOC with EVERY mow.


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

melliott2005 said:


> I am looking pretty closely at a JD 260B. My question for those who are more familiar with JD greensmowers is how easy it is to adjust the HOC "on the fly." I have 419 in the front I keep at around 0.5" and zoysia in the back that gets a bit of shade that I maintain around 1". I'd like to transition from my TruCut to a greensmower, but my concern is how much of a hassle it would be to adjust the HOC with EVERY mow.


Every mow would be a pain even using a unit with the speedlink adjustment. I think I would settle on either using your other reel for the higher cut yard or maintaining both at the same height.


----------



## jha4aamu

melliott2005 said:


> I am looking pretty closely at a JD 260B. My question for those who are more familiar with JD greensmowers is how easy it is to adjust the HOC "on the fly." I have 419 in the front I keep at around 0.5" and zoysia in the back that gets a bit of shade that I maintain around 1". I'd like to transition from my TruCut to a greensmower, but my concern is how much of a hassle it would be to adjust the HOC with EVERY mow.


It's much easier with the SL models vs the a/b/c. With The speedlink you can go from .5 to 1" in about 30 seconds.

I don't think the Bs would be terribly bad, but you would have to adjust each side individually


----------



## kay7711226

soupy01833 said:


> they do just sell the spring., it is just a honda engine


Thanks back up and running! got both of these if anyone else runs into this issue.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761HRNP5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RWT266/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## GreenLand

Did you by chance find a link to the complete Assembly? I am in need of a complete Assembly.



kay7711226 said:


> soupy01833 said:
> 
> 
> 
> they do just sell the spring., it is just a honda engine
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks back up and running! got both of these if anyone else runs into this issue.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761HRNP5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RWT266/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...


----------



## kay7711226

GreenLand said:


> Did you by chance find a link to the complete Assembly? I am in need of a complete Assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> kay7711226 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> soupy01833 said:
> 
> 
> 
> they do just sell the spring., it is just a honda engine
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks back up and running! got both of these if anyone else runs into this issue.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761HRNP5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RWT266/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Can not confirm it fits but came across this one during my search and its Red......

https://www.amazon.com/Starter-Assembly-28400-ZH8-13YA-28400-ZH8-013ZA-150-703/dp/B0071CKEM4


----------



## GreenLand

Thank you



kay7711226 said:


> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you by chance find a link to the complete Assembly? I am in need of a complete Assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> kay7711226 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks back up and running! got both of these if anyone else runs into this issue.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761HRNP5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RWT266/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Can not confirm it fits but came across this one during my search and its Red......
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Starter-Assembly-28400-ZH8-13YA-28400-ZH8-013ZA-150-703/dp/B0071CKEM4
Click to expand...


----------



## BrainBailey

jha4aamu said:


> melliott2005 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking pretty closely at a JD 260B. My question for those who are more familiar with JD greensmowers is how easy it is to adjust the HOC "on the fly." I have 419 in the front I keep at around 0.5" and zoysia in the back that gets a bit of shade that I maintain around 1". I'd like to transition from my TruCut to a greensmower, but my concern is how much of a hassle it would be to adjust the HOC with EVERY mow.
> 
> 
> 
> It's much easier with the SL models vs the a/b/c. With The speedlink you can go from .5 to 1" in about 30 seconds.
> 
> I don't think the Bs would be terribly bad, but you would have to adjust each side individually
Click to expand...

I have a 180b and don't think I'd want to do this, even though it'd be easier because it's a smaller mower. One way you could make it less painful would be to have a set fixture for each HOC. Or, if you already have an HOC gage with dial indicator, this might not be so terrible either. I use a bolt and straight iron, so that's probably half my reserve.


----------



## kay7711226

Where can I get air filter for 220a?(7-07183 # written on it)

Just finished tearing apart carb with cleaning, spark plug check, fuel tank and fuel lines drained and clean only yo find out filter is the issue for a "losing power" "Stalling at higher throttle" issue. Runs fine with out the filter(mowed 700sqft) soon as I place it back issue returns!


----------



## itslogz

@kay7711226

https://www.amazon.com/Stens-100-958-Replaces-17210-ZE0-505-17210-ZE0-822/dp/B004LZ59WO

Stens # 100-958 shows to be a replacement for that


----------



## g-man

I had an interesting issue with the 220E yesterday. When I started it, there was a high pitch noise in the machine. It normally is fairly quiet.

I started to diagnose. It sounded like a beating. I started to disconnect belts until I only had the engine turning. It was not the engine. It was the alternator. Yes the expensive part.

I hand moved the pulley and i had no real resistance. There is some from the magnets but not like a beating one. I wanted to open it and check inside, but i was already behind schedule with the tear down. I added some oil to the shaft towards the motor side. I know it is a seal bearing but i just wanted to mow (i had family staying the weekend).

I reassembled it all and decided to mow with the noise with my fingers crossed that i could finish before quit on me. 5min into the mow the noise was getting a bit louder and then it...

It just stopped. Just like normal. It then came back for 1 minute and then i stopped again. I mowed for 60min more without any noise. I was able to even double mow.

It is very strange. One possibility is some debris, mulch piece or something in the shaft. I'm going to start to check on parts in case the noise returns and i have to replace it. I also need a backup mower.


----------



## seebryango

@g-man I know of one for sale but it's in GA


----------



## Cavan806

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> melliott2005 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking pretty closely at a JD 260B. My question for those who are more familiar with JD greensmowers is how easy it is to adjust the HOC "on the fly." I have 419 in the front I keep at around 0.5" and zoysia in the back that gets a bit of shade that I maintain around 1". I'd like to transition from my TruCut to a greensmower, but my concern is how much of a hassle it would be to adjust the HOC with EVERY mow.
> 
> 
> 
> Every mow would be a pain even using a unit with the speedlink adjustment. I think I would settle on either using your other reel for the higher cut yard or maintaining both at the same height.
Click to expand...

Completely agree. Changing HOC every mow with this mower is just not ideal. I would leave the Trucut set up for the back yard or like @Boy_meets_lawn said mow both at the same height.

Cheers


----------



## kay7711226

itslogz said:


> @kay7711226
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Stens-100-958-Replaces-17210-ZE0-505-17210-ZE0-822/dp/B004LZ59WO
> 
> Stens # 100-958 shows to be a replacement for that


Good find, it came in on Sunday and fits perfectly.....back up and running now!


----------



## csmitty

g-man said:


> I had an interesting issue with the 220E yesterday. When I started it, there was a high pitch noise in the machine. It normally is fairly quiet.
> 
> I started to diagnose. It sounded like a beating. I started to disconnect belts until I only had the engine turning. It was not the engine. It was the alternator. Yes the expensive part.
> 
> I hand moved the pulley and i had no real resistance. There is some from the magnets but not like a beating one. I wanted to open it and check inside, but i was already behind schedule with the tear down. I added some oil to the shaft towards the motor side. I know it is a seal bearing but i just wanted to mow (i had family staying the weekend).
> 
> I reassembled it all and decided to mow with the noise with my fingers crossed that i could finish before quit on me. 5min into the mow the noise was getting a bit louder and then it...
> 
> It just stopped. Just like normal. It then came back for 1 minute and then i stopped again. I mowed for 60min more without any noise. I was able to even double mow.
> 
> It is very strange. One possibility is some debris, mulch piece or something in the shaft. I'm going to start to check on parts in case the noise returns and i have to replace it. I also need a backup mower.


I have some used parts as well if needed or interested. I bet a motor shop could probably fix it as well if need be.


----------



## g-man

@csmitty i mowed on Sunday and it was quiet for most of it until the end. If I tap it, the noise goes away. I looked at buying a new motor and it is not cheap.

I looked at the schematic and it only has one bearing. It doesn't make sense to me. I have the bearing (6003). I picked up a wavy spring washer. I plan to mow on Friday and then take it apart. I will take pictures of what I find in there.


----------



## csmitty

@g-man Yea I had a look as well. Looked like a basic electrical motor. If it goes away with taping might just be a bearing. I have spare alternators, motors, controllers they are used and I haven't tested them yet. Was planning on putting together a 2nd mower just for a test bed to confirm parts are operational.


----------



## soupy01833

No more cutting I. The morning. Had to change my HOC from 3/4 to 1 inch as I could not keep ahead of it cutting every 2-3 days even with pgr. The quality of cut was not good at 1 inch on wet grass. I have a 220e set to setting 6 for front roller.


----------



## DanCENTEX

2017 JD 220e hybrid troubleshooting help. I recently picked up a 220e w/ 700hrs and am having issues getting the reel engaged. It is throwing two codes: Code 2-10 Indicates Internal motor temperature resulted in controller shutting down motor.

Code 6-4 Indicates motor position sensor error at start.

I disconnected and reconnected all connections I could see and from a pretty thorough inspection of wires no glaring issues.

Has anyone experienced these codes? Any thoughts on possible culprit?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## soupy01833

check the alternator belt and make sure it is tight
you could have a broken or loose wire connection as well


----------



## DanCENTEX

soupy01833 said:


> check the alternator belt and make sure it is tight
> you could have a broken or loose wire connection as well


I checked the alternator belt and it is tight. Wiring harness connections seem fine. Maybe faulty PTO switch? Hoping the electric motor is not cooked


----------



## g-man

@DanCENTEX First thing to check, make sure the reel can freely spin by hand (with the machine off). If there is too much contact with the bedknife it will throw a code (dont remember but I think it is the 6-4). Basically saying that it can move the motor.


----------



## g-man

@csmitty I started to take apart the alternator. I will post the tear down in the 220E thread I had to keep it all in there.


----------



## AllisonN

DanCENTEX said:


> 2017 JD 220e hybrid troubleshooting help. I recently picked up a 220e w/ 700hrs and am having issues getting the reel engaged. It is throwing two codes: Code 2-10 Indicates Internal motor temperature resulted in controller shutting down motor.
> 
> Code 6-4 Indicates motor position sensor error at start.
> 
> I disconnected and reconnected all connections I could see and from a pretty thorough inspection of wires no glaring issues.
> 
> Has anyone experienced these codes? Any thoughts on possible culprit?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bxb5iFHmLry0UC1yOFlGaGtrSU0/edit?resourcekey=0-tAlpCfG8MaNAPGhTfNKtrg

Have you looked in the service manual for the steps on the codes?


Just seems that the 2-10 and 6-4 kinda both say damaged reel motor wires if the reel isn't jammed and free as g-man also said. I wonder if it's internal. Take the reel motor off and try to engage? Even though the reel is free if the motor is weak it could possibly throw a code? Does it backlap? Or the same codes? Also since it says internal temperature, does it throw the codes instantly with no run time on it I guess? Just trying to throw out some ideas…


----------



## DanCENTEX

g-man said:


> @DanCENTEX First thing to check, make sure the reel can freely spin by hand (with the machine off). If there is too much contact with the bedknife it will throw a code (dont remember but I think it is the 6-4). Basically saying that it can move the motor.


Double checked the reel and it's spinning freely by hand. Triple checked main connectors and inspected wires for damage and nothing out of the normal. I'm running out of ideas


----------



## DanCENTEX

AllisonN said:


> DanCENTEX said:
> 
> 
> 
> 2017 JD 220e hybrid troubleshooting help. I recently picked up a 220e w/ 700hrs and am having issues getting the reel engaged. It is throwing two codes: Code 2-10 Indicates Internal motor temperature resulted in controller shutting down motor.
> 
> Code 6-4 Indicates motor position sensor error at start.
> 
> I disconnected and reconnected all connections I could see and from a pretty thorough inspection of wires no glaring issues.
> 
> Has anyone experienced these codes? Any thoughts on possible culprit?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bxb5iFHmLry0UC1yOFlGaGtrSU0/edit?resourcekey=0-tAlpCfG8MaNAPGhTfNKtrg
> 
> Have you looked in the service manual for the steps on the codes?
> 
> 
> Just seems that the 2-10 and 6-4 kinda both say damaged reel motor wires if the reel isn't jammed and free as g-man also said. I wonder if it's internal. Take the reel motor off and try to engage? Even though the reel is free if the motor is weak it could possibly throw a code? Does it backlap? Or the same codes? Also since it says internal temperature, does it throw the codes instantly with no run time on it I guess? Just trying to throw out some ideas…
Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestions. The codes show up immediately upon starting the unit. With backlap switch engaged still nothing. I am going to take the reel motor off and give that a shot


----------



## DanCENTEX

Do any of you E-cut hybrid guys have info on how to get my hands on an electric motor for our units? I apologize if a thread already exists for this as I didn't have any luck finding anything

Thanks in advance


----------



## jha4aamu

DanCENTEX said:


> Do any of you E-cut hybrid guys have info on how to get my hands on an electric motor for our units? I apologize if a thread already exists for this as I didn't have any luck finding anything
> 
> Thanks in advance


Looks like GFP has some.
https://greenfarmparts.com/shop/john-deere-electric-motor-auc10827/


----------



## AllisonN

DanCENTEX said:


> Do any of you E-cut hybrid guys have info on how to get my hands on an electric motor for our units? I apologize if a thread already exists for this as I didn't have any luck finding anything
> 
> Thanks in advance


https://ozarkfairways.com/motors

Did you take the motor off and try it? Results as I haven't seen anything.


----------



## tmark1087

Decided to plunge into reel mowing. Found a 220a well priced and bought it. When cutting can you run it at lower rpm to get the hang out it or will the reel not spin fast enough to cut?


----------



## AllisonN

tmark1087 said:


> Decided to plunge into reel mowing. Found a 220a well priced and bought it. When cutting can you run it at lower rpm to get the hang out it or will the reel not spin fast enough to cut?


You can run it about half throttle and be ok.


----------



## Langley

Ok guys tell me I'm doing the right thing. I'm going from my Mclane to picking up a 220b. This is a good upgrade right. I'm going to be 600 out of the pocket to upgrade. Worth it?


----------



## ReelMowLow74

Upgraded my 20" McLane to a 220SL and its totally worth it. I can't imagine going back to a residential reel unless I had one to scalp or do the rough work.


----------



## Langley

ReelMowLow74 said:


> Upgraded my 20" McLane to a 220SL and its totally worth it. I can't imagine going back to a residential reel unless I had one to scalp or do the rough work.


Thanks. I figured and felt that was the answer. Plus yeah $600 out of the pocket isn't going to kill me. So excited to pick it up tomorrow.


----------



## Langley

Ok tried to look through the 97 pages but figured I would just ask real quick. What bolt do I need to backlap. The size that screws in so I don't have to get a 32mm socket.


----------



## ReelMowLow74

The backlap bolt is a 3/8" with a 24 thread pitch. You could also use a 32mm socket.


----------



## Langley

Awesome. Thanks!



ReelMowLow74 said:


> The backlap bolt is a 3/8" with a 24 thread pitch. You could also use a 32mm socket.


----------



## Herring

Does anyone use a GX120 tune up kit for their service? I've been looking online but don't see one with John Deere Turf Guard oil and the correct air filter. Do you buy all maintenance items separately or as a kit?


----------



## AllisonN

Herring said:


> Does anyone use a GX120 tune up kit for their service? I've been looking online but don't see one with John Deere Turf Guard oil and the correct air filter. Do you buy all maintenance items separately or as a kit?


I buy them separate. It's a Honda engine not a John Deere. Don't overthink it or overpay it also.


----------



## gregfromohio

I have a JD 260B. Any way to remove the transport wheel shafts without just cutting them off. Then, if I do cut them off, should I leave any material?? Or just cut it off flush?


----------



## ReelMowLow74

I don't think there is an option to remove. I left about an inch of material and then painted them black once everything was cut.


----------



## crussell

gregfromohio said:


> I have a JD 260B. Any way to remove the transport wheel shafts without just cutting them off. Then, if I do cut them off, should I leave any material?? Or just cut it off flush?


Unfortunately they are not removable like the Toro Greenmaster's.

You'll want to leave enough to fit a wrench on, incase you ever need to do maintenance on the drum in the future.


----------



## lbb091919

I purchased my 220SL knowing that the carb needed a clean and maybe an adjustment. After a full dismantling, cleaning, and tuning I could not get it to idle at low throttle and it would often stall after engaging the drive with the reel engaged.

Finally just purchased a factory carb from GreenFarmParts and was able to install it this weekend. The thing runs like a top right out of the box. The overall quality on the new carb is way better than the original which I think was one of those Amazon/eBay specials.

$38 total after shipping which was quick from GFP, I'd say it was well worth it to anyone else considering replacing theirs.


----------



## DanCENTEX

Well got bad news from John Deere….

I broke down and took the 220E to a local John Deere service dealer to check the codes the unit was throwing and why the reel motor was not engaging. A bad reel motor is the culprit. Their labor seems pretty excessive to replace the motor at $600.

Have any of you E-cut guys removed and reinstalled the motor to these units? If so, is it super complicated or something that can be knocked out from someone decently handy? I feel like purchasing a motor and installing myself to save several hundred dollars is my only option at this point.

Thanks in advance


----------



## Jimbo3230

Just brought home a new to me 220E. I got the technician manual from the start of this thread, but I can't find the operator manual anywhere for free. Is this one that must be purchased?

I don't mind paying for it, but free is better.


----------



## g-man

@DanCENTEX the reel motor is super easy. Check the technician manual link in the first post.

@Jimbo3230 the manual is free online in their website, but i wish there was a way to print it out. I like paper in the garage instead of a cell phone.


----------



## soupy01833

https://techinfo-omview.apps-prod-vpn.us.e06.c01.johndeerecloud.com/omview/omuc27590/09001faa81e66534


----------



## DanCENTEX

g-man said:


> @DanCENTEX the reel motor is super easy. Check the technician manual link in the first post.
> 
> @Jimbo3230 the manual is free online in their website, but i wish there was a way to print it out. I like paper in the garage instead of a cell phone.


That is really good to hear! Thanks a ton!


----------



## DanCENTEX

soupy01833 said:


> https://techinfo-omview.apps-prod-vpn.us.e06.c01.johndeerecloud.com/omview/omuc27590/09001faa81e66534


Thank you very much!


----------



## arm0211

I took apart the GTC to see why it wasn't working and nothing obvious appeared wrong. All the gears seem the be working as expect. The only thing Im seeing if the GTC doesn't spin easily


----------



## Txmx583

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> melliott2005 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking pretty closely at a JD 260B. My question for those who are more familiar with JD greensmowers is how easy it is to adjust the HOC "on the fly." I have 419 in the front I keep at around 0.5" and zoysia in the back that gets a bit of shade that I maintain around 1". I'd like to transition from my TruCut to a greensmower, but my concern is how much of a hassle it would be to adjust the HOC with EVERY mow.
> 
> 
> 
> Every mow would be a pain even using a unit with the speedlink adjustment. I think I would settle on either using your other reel for the higher cut yard or maintaining both at the same height.
Click to expand...

I agree, changing the HOC is easy, but requires a few socket sizes, and whatever you use to measure HOC. I use a straight edge and a measuring tape. Would take 5-6 mins between cuts each time but would not be fun haha.


----------



## g-man

arm0211 said:


> I took apart the GTC to see why it wasn't working and nothing obvious appeared wrong. All the gears seem the be working as expect. The only thing Im seeing if the GTC doesn't spin easily


I think you are missing a piece in there. There should be a gear that slides and engages the two finger in the bottom of the first image. The switch slides that piece in or out to engage it with the two fingers.


----------



## arm0211

Thanks @g-man It's hard to see with all the grease, but there is a piece in the cavity of the 2nd picture that will float up and down when rotating the on off switch


----------



## g-man

Thats the piece that makes all of this work. All the other gears will turn 100% of the time the reel turns. This piece is what connects all the other gears to the GTC shaft. Check to make sure the switch was installed correctly.


----------



## arm0211

@g-man would you expect to turn the GTC by hand? It seems that is not freely spinning


----------



## g-man

With the switch in the off position, it should spin without a problem. Only two bearings hold it. With the switch in the on position, you can turn it, but it will turn the reel too (not super easy).


----------



## arm0211

@g-man thanks for that info helped tremendously. So the highlighted red piece spins when the GTC is flipped "on" and the highlighted yellow and the conditioner doesn't spin at all. Can't really even get it to spin by hand really. It'll rock back and fourth.


----------



## g-man

If the red spin and not the yellow, then there is a pin inside there that is likely broken. You will need to get that big nut loose to get the collar off. It was very hard to remove mine. Check the 220E reconstruction thread since I think I have some pictures of that part there.


----------



## DanCENTEX

An update on my 220E that had a bad reel motor. Sent the motor to https://ozarkfairways.com/motors and had it back within four days. Only $250 vs. the John Deere dealer trying to hit me with $1600. Thanks @AllisonN for the reference.

Tried the mower last night and seems to be working just fine.

I got the unit without the grass catcher. Do any of you guys know where I could get my hands on one?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Lebrown87

I got a new to me 2013 220e from usedreelmowers.com and greased it up. Unfortunately I used all no 2 red and tacky on it. Will it survive until I tear it down this winter and go with all jd grease?

It needs some repainting for some rust and I might replace all the seals/bearings/o rings while it's apart. I'm sort of considering replacing the reel with a 7 blade instead of the 11 blade too, but it's got at least a few years of life left. I've still got to order some turf and golf grease since it isn't available locally. I learned about grease incompatibility about 24 hours too late. Also didn't realize it needs no 0 on the reel and groomer.

On the plus side it seems the rr products is in the process of adding the 220e to the website.


----------



## soupy01833

it would just mess up the bearings which need to be replaced when you change the reel anyway

Plus to clean all the #2 you used you would have to take it apart anyway so if you choose to do so it might be a good time to change the reel.

the only other thing I could think of was maybe stress on the reel motor but just guessing there


----------



## Hphillips

Found a 180B for about $1100 seller mentions:
Comes with catcher and light kit. No transport wheels Has groomer but it pops out of gear so it will need a little attention.

Any thoughts on price and possible issues to resolve with the groomer popping out of gear?


----------



## nwga_lawn

Seems high for an 18inch with no transport wheels and issues with the groomer. I have the big brother (220B) and they are easy to work on. I replaced the reel, bedknife and bearings/seals.

That being said I gave 400 for the 220B with a ruined bedknife and reel. I felt like it wasn't the best deal but they are hard to find.


----------



## Herring

Hphillips said:


> Found a 180B for about $1100 seller mentions:
> Comes with catcher and light kit. No transport wheels Has groomer but it pops out of gear so it will need a little attention.
> 
> Any thoughts on price and possible issues to resolve with the groomer popping out of gear?


If the groomer's shift collar has rounded off it could be replaced, that part is around $100. It's the part on the towel in the picture below that slides onto a shaft to activate the gear. Having the grass catcher is a plus. I would ask if the reel has been sharpened and will it cut paper.


----------



## Lebrown87

So I tried to use my 220e yesterday and the reel would turn on. I had switched the reel off after my last mow on Saturday and washed the machine with a hose. I spent a good hour fiddling with it and finally it worked, but I honestly didn't actually change anything. Of course I discovered the led is broken too. It's smashed from running in to something. I've ordered a new set of belts, a new reel switch and led, so hopefully it's nothing else. The switch did seem to work when I tested it with a multimeter. Certainly turned a nice mow into a cluster.

As an aside, it would be really nice to see the reel spin without the drive moving. Would have helped a lot troubleshooting instead of chasing my mower around the yard trying to see it from the side.

Is there anything else I should check now or just wait for the parts to arrive?


----------



## soupy01833

Lebrown87 said:


> So I tried to use my 220e yesterday and the reel would turn on. I had switched the reel off after my last mow on Saturday and washed the machine with a hose. I spent a good hour fiddling with it and finally it worked, but I honestly didn't actually change anything. Of course I discovered the led is broken too. It's smashed from running in to something. I've ordered a new set of belts, a new reel switch and led, so hopefully it's nothing else. The switch did seem to work when I tested it with a multimeter. Certainly turned a nice mow into a cluster.
> 
> As an aside, it would be really nice to see the reel spin without the drive moving. Would have helped a lot troubleshooting instead of chasing my mower around the yard trying to see it from the side.
> 
> Is there anything else I should check now or just wait for the parts to arrive?


whenever my reel does not turn the first thing i check is my alternator belt as it can become loose over time,. takes 10 minutes to tighten at most. If I want to see if the reel is turning it is normally enough to check in back lap mode, If it turns there it will normally turn in cutting mode


----------



## Lebrown87

Good to know. I'm going to change all the belts since they are of indeterminate age. That synchronous belt is expensive, $45 at green farm parts. I searched high and low for a more generic one and came up empty. Managed to find the other two though. It'll be a project when I get a free weekend in a couple of weeks. Might be time to take the back plates by the drive drum off and paint the rust on them.


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

Is anyone else replacing that synchronous belt? I only replaced the 2 external belts, it looks like its toothed and unless it fails I dont see the need.


----------



## g-man

There is basically zero load in that belt. Only replace if it breaks but i doubt it will. The reel motor has a electronic torque limit that stops it.


----------



## Golivarez

O.k. guys, I currently have JD220 greensmower and it's been blowing white smoke out the exhaust. I initially did it upon start up, but now the last two times I've mowed with it, it's blowing white smoke 75% of the time. I've checked the level of oil (no problem there), I've checked the head gasket and it is fine, no issues there. I haven't checked the rings, but the piston cylinder has no scaring whatsoever. When I removed the head, I noticed the valves and spark plug had lots of carbon deposits, but the piston was very clean. Any ideas? Do I need to check the rings? or do you think I'm running the engine too rich? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I need to get back to mowing with it ASAP. 
Anyone know where I can find an owner's manual on this unit?


----------



## jha4aamu

Hphillips said:


> Found a 180B for about $1100 seller mentions:
> Comes with catcher and light kit. No transport wheels Has groomer but it pops out of gear so it will need a little attention.
> 
> Any thoughts on price and possible issues to resolve with the groomer popping out of gear?


I dont have any advice on how to fix the groomer issue but $1100 for a 180b seems like too high. Id probably pass as I feel like better machines/deals are out there


----------



## soupy01833

https://techinfo-omview.apps-prod-vpn.us.e06.c01.johndeerecloud.com/omview/omuc27590/09001faa81e66534


----------



## potterwc

Anybody out there who cut off their transport axels and regretted it?


----------



## jha4aamu

potterwc said:


> Anybody out there who cut off their transport axels and regretted it?


I did. I hacked mine off last year and instantly regretted it.


----------



## soupy01833

I want to hack mine off so bad but will probably not


----------



## walk1355

potterwc said:


> Anybody out there who cut off their transport axels and regretted it?


Hacked mine off years ago, never needed the transport wheels so I sold them a couple years after too. I can't imagine why you'd need transport wheels if you were just maintaining your residential space.


----------



## potterwc

jha4aamu said:


> potterwc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody out there who cut off their transport axels and regretted it?
> 
> 
> 
> I did. I hacked mine off last year and instantly regretted it.
Click to expand...

Did you have a need for the transport wheels? My mower barely fits through a gate with the wheels/axels but I like the idea that if I ever need to take to get work done, I can load it with ramp using the transport wheels.


----------



## jha4aamu

potterwc said:


> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> potterwc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody out there who cut off their transport axels and regretted it?
> 
> 
> 
> I did. I hacked mine off last year and instantly regretted it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Did you have a need for the transport wheels? My mower barely fits through a gate with the wheels/axels but I like the idea that if I ever need to take to get work done, I can load it with ramp using the transport wheels.
Click to expand...

No I never had a need for the transport wheels but I also didnt have a reason to hack them off either, other than boredom. Now that I have a 220e w/ the transport wheels, i dont have to listen to that steel drum clanking around on my concrete driveway though.


----------



## kay7711226

Anyone with back lapping compound willing to sell? Or split buy?


----------



## DFWdude

New owner of a 260SL. Hoping y'all can answer two quick questions.

1) how do I properly adjust the HOC? Loosen up A and then adjust up and down with B? Looks like ccw with B lowers the HOC and vice versa.



2) should the groomer OD be on the same plane as the bedknife / reel / front roller? Right now, with the mower standing upright and ready to mow, there is at least 1/2" gap under the groomer.

Thx

Edit; found the parts diagram online. Looks like I am missing a cross shaft that would link the HOC adjusters on each side 
Outside of that, any ideas how to change my HOC as-is?


----------



## jha4aamu

DFWdude said:


> New owner of a 260SL. Hoping y'all can answer two quick questions.
> 
> 1) how do I properly adjust the HOC? Loosen up A and then adjust up and down with B? Looks like ccw with B lowers the HOC and vice versa.
> 
> 
> 
> 2) should the groomer OD be on the same plane as the bedknife / reel / front roller? Right now, with the mower standing upright and ready to mow, there is at least 1/2" gap under the groomer.
> 
> Thx


You do not need to loosen A to adjust the HOC. Just attach your speedlink and use a socket and drill on B to adjust your HOC up or down


----------



## DFWdude

jha4aamu said:


> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> New owner of a 260SL. Hoping y'all can answer two quick questions.
> 
> 1) how do I properly adjust the HOC? Loosen up A and then adjust up and down with B? Looks like ccw with B lowers the HOC and vice versa.
> 
> 
> 
> 2) should the groomer OD be on the same plane as the bedknife / reel / front roller? Right now, with the mower standing upright and ready to mow, there is at least 1/2" gap under the groomer.
> 
> Thx
> 
> 
> 
> You do not need to loosen A to adjust the HOC. Just attach your speedlink and use a socket and drill on B to adjust your HOC up or down
Click to expand...

Help me out here: speedlink?
As it is now, B freely spins w/o any perceptible HOC change

https://youtube.com/shorts/wY30oyujL50?feature=share


----------



## soupy01833

there is supposed to be a bar there
https://youtu.be/fZQ6pdHJhwE?t=958


----------



## jha4aamu

DFWdude said:


> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> New owner of a 260SL. Hoping y'all can answer two quick questions.
> 
> 1) how do I properly adjust the HOC? Loosen up A and then adjust up and down with B? Looks like ccw with B lowers the HOC and vice versa.
> 
> 
> 
> 2) should the groomer OD be on the same plane as the bedknife / reel / front roller? Right now, with the mower standing upright and ready to mow, there is at least 1/2" gap under the groomer.
> 
> Thx
> 
> 
> 
> You do not need to loosen A to adjust the HOC. Just attach your speedlink and use a socket and drill on B to adjust your HOC up or down
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Help me out here: speedlink?
> As it is now, B freely spins w/o any perceptible HOC change
> 
> https://youtube.com/shorts/wY30oyujL50?feature=share
Click to expand...

You are going to need powertools to adj the HOC. I guess you could technically do it that way, but just for reference, I used a cordless drill and I probably had to run it for 45-60sec to drop my HOC 3/8"

The speedlink bar connects both the L and R HOC adjusters so you can adjust the HOC on both sides simultaneously. You can then remove the bar and make minor tweaks to either side individually. It doesnt look like that part is connected on your mower. If you dont have one, they are fairly cheap to purchase. The part number of that should be JDTCU29056


----------



## DFWdude

Thanks all. I'll order a speedlink as I dont have one. 
I just assumed the internal threads of the adjuster were much more coarse. I hooked up the drill and the HOC began to change 

Regarding the groomer, should its OD bottom be on the same plane as the bedknife?


----------



## DFWdude

@jha4aamu JDTCU29056 Is $121. I'll just adjust both sides until I have to put in a larger order w Deere. Thanks for the p/n!


----------



## jha4aamu

DFWdude said:


> Thanks all. I'll order a speedlink as I dont have one.
> I just assumed the internal threads of the adjuster were much more coarse. I hooked up the drill and the HOC began to change
> 
> Regarding the groomer, should its OD bottom be on the same plane as the bedknife?


Also, dont forget to order the springs and end caps associated w/ the speedlink tube.

Maybe someone else can chime in on the groomer position for you. I have one on my E-cut but never use it.


----------



## lbb091919

DFWdude said:


> Thanks all. I'll order a speedlink as I dont have one.
> I just assumed the internal threads of the adjuster were much more coarse. I hooked up the drill and the HOC began to change
> 
> Regarding the groomer, should its OD bottom be on the same plane as the bedknife?


The threads are very fine so you can make some pretty precise adjustments. You'll just have to do one side at a time until you get the speedlink bar.

For the groomer, the manual specifies 1mm above cutting height with a rotary brush and 1mm below cutting height with a GTC. Looks like you have a brush.


----------



## DanCENTEX

Would appreciate suggestions on which blade/bed knife set up to go with on my 220E. I currently have the 14-blade and am cutting at just under 1/2". I am experiencing waves in the turf. I have adjusted FOC to all scenarios and still have the turf waves.

I have Tiftuf Bermuda down here in Texas. Prefer keeping around 1/2" or lower. Suggestions on what would make more sense...7-blade or 11-blade? Also, will this require a different bed knife? TIA!


----------



## DFWdude

260SL; If I let the engine fully warm up, fully open the choke, hold the safety down and engage the drive, the unit will stall. If I leave the choke partially engaged, say 1/3 of the choke lever travel, it does not stall. 
Carb cleaning reqd or maybe something else?


----------



## Bmossin

DFWdude said:


> 260SL; If I let the engine fully warm up, fully open the choke, hold the safety down and engage the drive, the unit will stall. If I leave the choke partially engaged, say 1/3 of the choke lever travel, it does not stall.
> Carb cleaning reqd or maybe something else?


I would start with a carb cleaning...a new one from Deere has come down significantly in price than what they were a couple years ago...get one from a Deere dealer if you don't want to clean vs an Amazon or Ebay clone.


----------



## lbb091919

+1 to @Bmossin . I had the same issue with my 220SL when I got it. Cleaned the carb and it got a little better but still wouldn't idle with the choke fully open.

Sprung for a factory replacement carb from GreenFarmParts and it's run perfect ever since.


----------



## DFWdude

A $27 dollar carb?! Thats easy money vs cleaning!

Thanks fellas


----------



## jha4aamu

DFWdude said:


> A $27 dollar carb?! Thats easy money vs cleaning!
> 
> Thanks fellas


Be careful with the carbs you get on places like Amazon. Ive purchased a few and they have been hit or miss. Even purchasing 2 (or 3) for $27, it beat spending $130 for the OEM one the local JD dealers had. Just be sure to read the specs before buying.


----------



## DFWdude

jha4aamu said:


> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> A $27 dollar carb?! Thats easy money vs cleaning!
> 
> Thanks fellas
> 
> 
> 
> Be careful with the carbs you get on places like Amazon. Ive purchased a few and they have been hit or miss. Even purchasing 2 (or 3) for $27, it beat spending $130 for the OEM one the local JD dealers had. Just be sure to read the specs before buying.
Click to expand...

$27 was from greenfarmparts

Edit; looks like I may have acquired the rebuild kit.


----------



## soupy01833

this is part number fot the 29 dollar oem carb from john deere
MIA11601

for me it says Carb and not kit


----------



## lbb091919

That's the part number I ordered too


----------



## cnet24

Anyone used the front brush attachment on bermuda? I can see the use on bentgrass greens but just curious if anyone has had experience with bermuda.


----------



## DFWdude

cnet24 said:


> Anyone used the front brush attachment on bermuda? I can see the use on bentgrass greens but just curious if anyone has had experience with bermuda.


I have, but only once. Cutting at 0.5"
I will have to do some side by side comparisons w and w/o it on, bc I couldnt really see what it netted me.


----------



## DFWdude

Anyone know what rpm range a 260sl should turn at full throttle, either w no load or with the reel and drive engaged?

Thx


----------



## Hawkeye_311

I am planning on ordering a new bedknife for my JD220. Just curious if they come sharpened or is it something you need to do yourself? Thanks for a newbie.


----------



## jha4aamu

Hawkeye_311 said:


> I am planning on ordering a new bedknife for my JD220. Just curious if they come sharpened or is it something you need to do yourself? Thanks for a newbie.


The come sharp, but you will want to mate the new bedknife with your reel


----------



## MasterMech

DFWdude said:


> Anyone know what rpm range a 260sl should turn at full throttle, either w no load or with the reel and drive engaged?
> 
> Thx


3000 rpm is typical for no-load, the service manual for this machine should have the actual spec. Engines are speed-governed so should not vary much when the reel/drive is running. +/- 50 rpm is totally acceptable.

Engine itself (Honda GX120) is good for 4,000 rip 'ems, but that's a tad faster than most want to run behind their machines. :nod:

ETA: From the operators manual - Section 70 (Specifications)

Engine Speed, Low Idle..............1500 ± 150 rpm
Engine Speed, High Idle..............2950 ± 150 rpm


----------



## DFWdude

MasterMech said:


> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know what rpm range a 260sl should turn at full throttle, either w no load or with the reel and drive engaged?
> 
> Thx
> 
> 
> 
> 3200 rpm is typical for no-load, the service manual for this machine should have the actual spec. Engines are speed-governed so should not vary much when the reel/drive is running. +/- 50 rpm is totally acceptable.
> 
> Engine itself (Honda GX120) is good for 3,600 rip 'ems, but that's a tad faster than most want to run behind their machines.
Click to expand...

Thanks! My throttle stop had been adjusted to bring speed way down. Likely why the speed over ground was so slow.

Thanks again


----------



## MasterMech

DFWdude said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know what rpm range a 260sl should turn at full throttle, either w no load or with the reel and drive engaged?
> 
> Thx
> 
> 
> 
> 3200 rpm is typical for no-load, the service manual for this machine should have the actual spec. Engines are speed-governed so should not vary much when the reel/drive is running. +/- 50 rpm is totally acceptable.
> 
> Engine itself (Honda GX120) is good for 3,600 rip 'ems, but that's a tad faster than most want to run behind their machines.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks! My throttle stop had been adjusted to bring speed way down. Likely why the speed over ground was so slow.
> 
> Thanks again
Click to expand...

Check my post again, I edited that top-end speed to 3,000, where it should be. Turning it up a bit is pretty common for productivity reasons. And the GX120 is actually good to 4,000 RPM but, yeah... :lol:


----------



## DFWdude

Now it is Perfecto

Idle 


WOT


Still shocked by the amount of throttle stop still exposed, but it is what it is


----------



## Pclaunch

I started out reel mowing with a push mower this summer. I quickly had to move on to the sunjoe battery-powered mover as the push was not getting the job done anymore. I squirreled enough away over the last few months to purchase a greens mower to get my Bermuda down to the .5-.75 HOC and stripes. I went out and picked up a 220a yesterday from a dealer here in North Texas.

Got that bad boy and was excited to get reeling. I don't have a gauge made yet so I just cranked it up as high as it would go. This was still taking off quite a bit as I had been mowing around an inch and have not mowed in a week so it was taking quite a bit off of the grass. Also, huge learning curve.

Things were going ok, and then bam! I hit a black hard plastic cover that is part of our water cleanout, I guess, that sticks up in the yard. I thought I was clear, but I wasn't. Brand new bed knife was torched. Reel seems ok, I did file down a small knick that I could see. I figured the reel would be in terrible shape. I have a new bedknife on order. Will the bedknife need to be ground at a shop, or can I put it on with feeler gauges and backlap and go?

I am afraid my wife is going to kill me with the money that I spent on the mower and now I am already fixing stuff&#128557;

Also, the clutch handle does not disengage as soon as I let go of the bail handle. Any ideas on that? Should I be able to roll the mover around with the reel engaged but clutch out?

Total newbie to all this, but very excited for the possibilities. I did not take any pics but I can later today if it would be helpful.


----------



## DFWdude

A new bedknife should not require a grind. Just get it to cut paper then backlap it.


----------



## Pclaunch

Thanks! I was dreading having to fork out money for that also since the reels were just sharpened. I felt like the biggest dunce when this happened.

Also took every ounce of strength in my Milwaukee hydraulic impact driver and 3 broken flathead bits to get the busted knife off. I assume there is a specialized tool to deal with the torque on the screws. I also ordered new screws as the old ones were pretty stripped.


----------



## jha4aamu

Pclaunch said:


> Thanks! I was dreading having to fork out money for that also since the reels were just sharpened. I felt like the biggest dunce when this happened.
> 
> Also took every ounce of strength in my Milwaukee hydraulic impact driver and 3 broken flathead bits to get the busted knife off. I assume there is a specialized tool to deal with the torque on the screws. I also ordered new screws as the old ones were pretty stripped.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPPATS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You will want one of those w/ bedknife screw driver tool. You can get those from RR.

Using new screws is always recommended when switching out bedknives


----------



## Pclaunch

jha4aamu said:


> Pclaunch said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! I was dreading having to fork out money for that also since the reels were just sharpened. I felt like the biggest dunce when this happened.
> 
> Also took every ounce of strength in my Milwaukee hydraulic impact driver and 3 broken flathead bits to get the busted knife off. I assume there is a specialized tool to deal with the torque on the screws. I also ordered new screws as the old ones were pretty stripped.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPPATS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> You will want one of those w/ bedknife screw driver tool. You can get those from RR.
> 
> Using new screws is always recommended when switching out bedknives
Click to expand...

Would I need the impact driver to install or just remove screws?


----------



## Bombers

Pclaunch said:


> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pclaunch said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! I was dreading having to fork out money for that also since the reels were just sharpened. I felt like the biggest dunce when this happened.
> 
> Also took every ounce of strength in my Milwaukee hydraulic impact driver and 3 broken flathead bits to get the busted knife off. I assume there is a specialized tool to deal with the torque on the screws. I also ordered new screws as the old ones were pretty stripped.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPPATS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> You will want one of those w/ bedknife screw driver tool. You can get those from RR.
> 
> Using new screws is always recommended when switching out bedknives
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Would I need the impact driver to install or just remove screws?
Click to expand...

Wouldn't be my first choice for removal unless they're FOR SURE seized. Just soak it with PB plaster or similar overnight and use a breaker bar with the screwdriver tool. For installing, regular drill or hand tool is fine and torque to spec. Get some anti-seize for the threads when you install the new ones in too unless you want to deal that broken bits and stripped heads again.


----------



## Pclaunch

Bombers said:


> Pclaunch said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPPATS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> You will want one of those w/ bedknife screw driver tool. You can get those from RR.
> 
> Using new screws is always recommended when switching out bedknives
> 
> 
> 
> Would I need the impact driver to install or just remove screws?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wouldn't be my first choice for removal unless they're FOR SURE seized. Just soak it with PB plaster or similar overnight and use a breaker bar with the screwdriver tool. Get some anti-seize for the threads when you install the new ones in too.
Click to expand...

I got them all out. Just wondering the best way to install the new ones.


----------



## g-man

Bombers said:


> Pclaunch said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NPPATS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> You will want one of those w/ bedknife screw driver tool. You can get those from RR.
> 
> Using new screws is always recommended when switching out bedknives
> 
> 
> 
> Would I need the impact driver to install or just remove screws?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wouldn't be my first choice for removal unless they're FOR SURE seized. Just soak it with PB plaster or similar overnight and use a breaker bar with the screwdriver tool. For installing, regular drill or hand tool is fine and torque to spec. Get some anti-seize for the threads when you install the new ones in too unless you want to deal that broken bits and stripped heads again.
Click to expand...

I think that is the right tool for the job.


----------



## FATC1TY

I wouldn't install with an impact, but if you add back, use some anti seize for sure.


----------



## Pclaunch

I am planning on using my wheeler inch pounds torque driver that I use for working in my guns. It will go to 100 inch pounds.


----------



## kay7711226

If anyone looking for a carb on JD220(kawasaki engine) https://www.ebay.com/itm/304162196217. Recently installed and runs great.


----------



## The-new-guy

Anybody have some detailed pics of the light mount on the 220SL or 260Sl especially where the light mounts to the mower?


----------



## DFWdude

260sl


----------



## The-new-guy

@DFWdude thanks!


----------



## MasterMech

Pclaunch said:


> Bombers said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pclaunch said:
> 
> 
> 
> Would I need the impact driver to install or just remove screws?
> 
> 
> 
> Wouldn't be my first choice for removal unless they're FOR SURE seized. Just soak it with PB plaster or similar overnight and use a breaker bar with the screwdriver tool. Get some anti-seize for the threads when you install the new ones in too.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I got them all out. Just wondering the best way to install the new ones.
Click to expand...

There is something wrong with me (Editor: Just one?) but I do torque them for install.


----------



## Pclaunch

MasterMech said:


> Pclaunch said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bombers said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wouldn't be my first choice for removal unless they're FOR SURE seized. Just soak it with PB plaster or similar overnight and use a breaker bar with the screwdriver tool. Get some anti-seize for the threads when you install the new ones in too.
> 
> 
> 
> I got them all out. Just wondering the best way to install the new ones.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There is something wrong with me (Editor: Just one?) but I do torque them for install.
Click to expand...

I got them torqued down to 60 in-lb using the wheeler tool I poset above. took a bit to get the bedknife to reel adjusted but she was cutting good after that. I did mess up one of the bedknife adjustment collar locks though by tightening it too much



Part 22. I have a new one coming in. Anyone know the best way to get the knob all the way out to replace the collar?


----------



## Herring

Pclaunch said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pclaunch said:
> 
> 
> 
> I got them all out. Just wondering the best way to install the new ones.
> 
> 
> 
> There is something wrong with me (Editor: Just one?) but I do torque them for install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I got them torqued down to 60 in-lb using the wheeler tool I poset above. took a bit to get the bedknife to reel adjusted but she was cutting good after that. I did mess up one of the bedknife adjustment collar locks though by tightening it too much
> 
> 
> 
> Part 22. I have a new one coming in. Anyone know the best way to get the knob all the way out to replace the collar?
Click to expand...

I have done the same and need to order a replacement. Did you order from John Deere?Should be able to unscrew them all the way out, may have to pull the adjuster up through the collar once it's unscrewed. There's a good guide with pictures from @Pete1313 here.


----------



## Pclaunch

Herring said:


> Pclaunch said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> There is something wrong with me (Editor: Just one?) but I do torque them for install.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got them torqued down to 60 in-lb using the wheeler tool I poset above. took a bit to get the bedknife to reel adjusted but she was cutting good after that. I did mess up one of the bedknife adjustment collar locks though by tightening it too much
> 
> 
> 
> Part 22. I have a new one coming in. Anyone know the best way to get the knob all the way out to replace the collar?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have done the same and need to order a replacement. Did you order from John Deere?Should be able to unscrew them all the way out, may have to pull the adjuster up through the collar once it's unscrewed. There's a good guide with pictures from @Pete1313 here.
Click to expand...

I got the replacement from Green Farm Parts. I am going to be gentle with it from now on. Darn things are expensive for just a collar clamp.


----------



## GreenLand

Hi all! Finally got the parts I needed to get my 180c rolling. Thanks to this guy

https://www.ebay.com/usr/generalturfequipment

who sells new and used parts and mowers. Good guy to deal with and prices are reasonable.

Looking forward to swapping the 11 blade reel and bedknife so I can cut in the 1.5-3 inch range. Anyone know of any used grasscatchers for the 180- a, b, or c?


----------



## GreenLand

May sound silly, but what does the groomer actually do? Is it worth the upgrade considering I plan to cut in the 1.5- 3 inch range? Thanks.

Looks like this thread has picked up a bit since I last checked&#128515;


----------



## DFWdude

No groomer required for that HOC. 
Its used to remove grain, like on a putting green


----------



## GreenLand

DFWdude said:


> No groomer required for that HOC.
> Its used to remove grain, like on a putting green


Thanks dude!


----------



## FATC1TY

GreenLand said:


> Hi all! Finally got the parts I needed to get my 180c rolling. Thanks to this guy
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/usr/generalturfequipment
> 
> who sells new and used parts and mowers. Good guy to deal with and prices are reasonable.
> 
> Looking forward to swapping the 11 blade reel and bedknife so I can cut in the 1.5-3 inch range. Anyone know of any used grasscatchers for the 180- a, b, or c?


How are you getting a greens mower to cut that high, and if so, why?


----------



## GreenLand

FATC1TY said:


> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all! Finally got the parts I needed to get my 180c rolling. Thanks to this guy
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/usr/generalturfequipment
> 
> who sells new and used parts and mowers. Good guy to deal with and prices are reasonable.
> 
> Looking forward to swapping the 11 blade reel and bedknife so I can cut in the 1.5-3 inch range. Anyone know of any used grasscatchers for the 180- a, b, or c?
> 
> 
> 
> How are you getting a greens mower to cut that high, and if so, why?
Click to expand...

A member here says that all I need is a larger front roller, reel and different bed knife to cut that high. I honestly like the grass my Bermuda looks really nice and summer when it's nice and thick. Also it helps with moisture and water retention in my lawn. Honestly I'm just using a reel mower because of the better cut versus a rotary mower.


----------



## FATC1TY

GreenLand said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all! Finally got the parts I needed to get my 180c rolling. Thanks to this guy
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/usr/generalturfequipment
> 
> who sells new and used parts and mowers. Good guy to deal with and prices are reasonable.
> 
> Looking forward to swapping the 11 blade reel and bedknife so I can cut in the 1.5-3 inch range. Anyone know of any used grasscatchers for the 180- a, b, or c?
> 
> 
> 
> How are you getting a greens mower to cut that high, and if so, why?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> A member here says that all I need is a larger front roller, reel and different bed knife to cut that high. I honestly like the grass my Bermuda looks really nice and summer when it's nice and thick. Also it helps with moisture and water retention in my lawn. Honestly I'm just using a reel mower because of the better cut versus a rotary mower.
Click to expand...

I think 3in is likely erroneous, but I'll stand by to see if it works. I would be surprised if the roller change gets you 1.75 max. The reel and bedknife have little do do with "ability" to go higher, but more about the ability to a better cut at the top end of the heights.

Keep in mind the taller the grass, the "leggier" it gets. You will have to make multiple passes with your reel to get the quality of cut you desire, kind of going against the notion of a greens mower at that point.


----------



## GreenLand

Last couple years I kept it at 4-6 inches. Taller as the season went. I like a nice plush lawn. My next door neighbor tried to complete last year but couldn't. The HOA sent me a post card the past two summers saying great job on the yard. This year was 3-4 inches. While it may not be within the bermuda height norm it gets folks to stop and talk lol.

I agree the bedknife and reel are just to cut at said heights. Can you tell me the reason I will not be able to cut as needed? The HOC adjustment slot is like 2-3/4 inches. Would this coupled by a 3in roller not allow me to cut in the range I desire?



FATC1TY said:


> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> How are you getting a greens mower to cut that high, and if so, why?
> 
> 
> 
> A member here says that all I need is a larger front roller, reel and different bed knife to cut that high. I honestly like the grass my Bermuda looks really nice and summer when it's nice and thick. Also it helps with moisture and water retention in my lawn. Honestly I'm just using a reel mower because of the better cut versus a rotary mower.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think 3in is likely erroneous, but I'll stand by to see if it works. I would be surprised if the roller change gets you 1.75 max. The reel and bedknife have little do do with "ability" to go higher, but more about the ability to a better cut at the top end of the heights.
> 
> Keep in mind the taller the grass, the "leggier" it gets. You will have to make multiple passes with your reel to get the quality of cut you desire, kind of going against the notion of a greens mower at that point.
Click to expand...


----------



## FATC1TY

GreenLand said:


> Last couple years I kept it at 4-6 inches. Taller as the season went. I like a nice plush lawn. My next door neighbor tried to complete last year but couldn't. The HOA sent me a post card the past two summers saying great job on the yard. This year was 3-4 inches. While it may not be within the bermuda height norm it gets folks to stop and talk lol.
> 
> I agree the bedknife and reel are just to cut at said heights. Can you tell me the reason I will not be able to cut as needed? The HOC adjustment slot is like 2-3/4 inches. Would this coupled by a 3in roller not allow me to cut in the range I desire?
> 
> 
> 
> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> A member here says that all I need is a larger front roller, reel and different bed knife to cut that high. I honestly like the grass my Bermuda looks really nice and summer when it's nice and thick. Also it helps with moisture and water retention in my lawn. Honestly I'm just using a reel mower because of the better cut versus a rotary mower.
> 
> 
> 
> I think 3in is likely erroneous, but I'll stand by to see if it works. I would be surprised if the roller change gets you 1.75 max. The reel and bedknife have little do do with "ability" to go higher, but more about the ability to a better cut at the top end of the heights.
> 
> Keep in mind the taller the grass, the "leggier" it gets. You will have to make multiple passes with your reel to get the quality of cut you desire, kind of going against the notion of a greens mower at that point.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I'll let someone else chime in, but I think you are confusing roller size with height of cut a bit. I'll look forward to you posting 3in high reel cut bermuda with that mower if you find a way to modify it. You will have to do a lot of customization considering the stock heights those mowers are set to be used at, as you are cutting unusually high at 4-6 inches, and even then 3 is quite tall from a reel perspective.

1.25 -1.5 I think is the highest, and that might be with the "high cut kit" from what I've seen. Which includes changing your clip rate and the larger diameter roller.


----------



## AllisonN

The grass at that height would never flip back up in time to be cut.


----------



## FATC1TY

AllisonN said:


> The grass at that height would never flip back up in time to be cut.


Correct, but I'm not sure where they were told a roller would make a reel cut nearly 3in. I don't want someone to go in on that blind. I looked up the 180C. No way it's cutting over 1.5-1.75 range of actual cut, maxed out. Would require lots of customization, and even then, not sure the lowest blade reel JD offers, but it would have to be 5-8 blades to even sniff being a half decent cut I would imagine.


----------



## GreenLand

AllisonN said:


> The grass at that height would never flip back up in time to be cut.


Thank you this is good info. The stock roller is 2in, so the 3in should net 1/2" or so in bedknife height. Give or take idk. The range I was thinking was 1.5-3. So if im short an inch it wont matter much. I just have to see what I end up with. I will see where I can get with what I have now then go from there. No biggie.


----------



## FATC1TY

GreenLand said:


> AllisonN said:
> 
> 
> 
> The grass at that height would never flip back up in time to be cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you this is good info. The stock roller is 2in, so the 3in should net 1/2" or so in bedknife height. Give or take idk. The range I was thinking was 1.5-3. So if im short an inch it wont matter much. I just have to see what I end up with. I will see where I can get with what I have now then go from there. No biggie.
Click to expand...

I'd suggest doing some cursory research on your model, and going from there. Should be pretty easy to find manuals and such online for troubleshooting as well.

I would plan for 1.5 being the absolute highest you might be able to cut, and you'll need to get a reel blade count under 10 to aide in that high cut.


----------



## GreenLand

The bit I have searched the manual I have not found a HOC max. Only the min. I have a few parts on the list for next season. I'll probably backlap the current setup. Start with that and upgrade from there. Thanks.



FATC1TY said:


> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AllisonN said:
> 
> 
> 
> The grass at that height would never flip back up in time to be cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you this is good info. The stock roller is 2in, so the 3in should net 1/2" or so in bedknife height. Give or take idk. The range I was thinking was 1.5-3. So if im short an inch it wont matter much. I just have to see what I end up with. I will see where I can get with what I have now then go from there. No biggie.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'd suggest doing some cursory research on your model, and going from there. Should be pretty easy to find manuals and such online for troubleshooting as well.
> 
> I would plan for 1.5 being the absolute highest you might be able to cut, and you'll need to get a reel blade count under 10 to aide in that high cut.
Click to expand...


----------



## AllisonN

FATC1TY said:


> AllisonN said:
> 
> 
> 
> The grass at that height would never flip back up in time to be cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Correct, but I'm not sure where they were told a roller would make a reel cut nearly 3in. I don't want someone to go in on that blind. I looked up the 180C. No way it's cutting over 1.5-1.75 range of actual cut, maxed out. Would require lots of customization, and even then, not sure the lowest blade reel JD offers, but it would have to be 5-8 blades to even sniff being a half decent cut I would imagine.
Click to expand...

I agree with that. I just can't see it cutting nicely at all above 1.5" unless the turf is super dense. And we all know how it becomes leggy the higher the hoc. I mow on the side and it's hard enough for a rotary to have a clean cut on Bermuda that is definitely over 3". Just with the rotary you have lift from the blades. Just not sure if he is really understanding that once the front roller smashes the grass it's such a short distance before it has to be standing back up to be cut on the reel. I can't tell you the amount of time that I can walk through a customers yard that is on the taller side and I leave footprints in it. The e cut Deere's were the only reels that have the highest hoc that JD makes.

Another thing that comes to mind is the fact that it is Bermuda and with it having stalks or 20-30 percent only being leaf tissue. Can just see the roller laying the stalks a different way on each pass. In my mind you would see stalks and the tissue folded over. Idk hopefully something will work out for him and he doesn't end up deep in his quest.


----------



## GreenLand

GreenLand said:


> AllisonN said:
> 
> 
> 
> The grass at that height would never flip back up in time to be cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you this is good info. *The range I was thinking was 1.5-3. So if im short an inch it wont matter much. I just have to see what I end up with. I will see where I can get with what I have now then go from there. "No biggie".*
Click to expand...

🙋🤷🤦


----------



## FATC1TY

AllisonN said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AllisonN said:
> 
> 
> 
> The grass at that height would never flip back up in time to be cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Correct, but I'm not sure where they were told a roller would make a reel cut nearly 3in. I don't want someone to go in on that blind. I looked up the 180C. No way it's cutting over 1.5-1.75 range of actual cut, maxed out. Would require lots of customization, and even then, not sure the lowest blade reel JD offers, but it would have to be 5-8 blades to even sniff being a half decent cut I would imagine.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I agree with that. I just can't see it cutting nicely at all above 1.5" unless the turf is super dense. And we all know how it becomes leggy the higher the hoc. I mow on the side and it's hard enough for a rotary to have a clean cut on Bermuda that is definitely over 3". Just with the rotary you have lift from the blades. Just not sure if he is really understanding that once the front roller smashes the grass it's such a short distance before it has to be standing back up to be cut on the reel. I can't tell you the amount of time that I can walk through a customers yard that is on the taller side and I leave footprints in it. The e cut Deere's were the only reels that have the highest hoc that JD makes.
> 
> Another thing that comes to mind is the fact that it is Bermuda and with it having stalks or 20-30 percent only being leaf tissue. Can just see the roller laying the stalks a different way on each pass. In my mind you would see stalks and the tissue folded over. Idk hopefully something will work out for him and he doesn't end up deep in his quest.
Click to expand...

So the E-Cuts you like for the higher HOC? I'm tempted to find one to play with. High is subjective but 1in is high to me.


----------



## FATC1TY

GreenLand said:


> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AllisonN said:
> 
> 
> 
> The grass at that height would never flip back up in time to be cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you this is good info. *The range I was thinking was 1.5-3. So if im short an inch it wont matter much. I just have to see what I end up with. I will see where I can get with what I have now then go from there. "No biggie".*
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 🙋🤷🤦
Click to expand...

Don't be frustrated. If you get 1.5 max, be happy, it might be lower. It might be off for cutting wuality, but you can go slower, and cut it in multiple directions, and get a nice finish.

I would expect you'd like it at that length and how the grass decides to grow. It will be thicker than what you have. Just know you'll have to alter your cultural practices a bit, and mow ALOT. It'll work great for you.


----------



## AllisonN

FATC1TY said:


> AllisonN said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> Correct, but I'm not sure where they were told a roller would make a reel cut nearly 3in. I don't want someone to go in on that blind. I looked up the 180C. No way it's cutting over 1.5-1.75 range of actual cut, maxed out. Would require lots of customization, and even then, not sure the lowest blade reel JD offers, but it would have to be 5-8 blades to even sniff being a half decent cut I would imagine.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with that. I just can't see it cutting nicely at all above 1.5" unless the turf is super dense. And we all know how it becomes leggy the higher the hoc. I mow on the side and it's hard enough for a rotary to have a clean cut on Bermuda that is definitely over 3". Just with the rotary you have lift from the blades. Just not sure if he is really understanding that once the front roller smashes the grass it's such a short distance before it has to be standing back up to be cut on the reel. I can't tell you the amount of time that I can walk through a customers yard that is on the taller side and I leave footprints in it. The e cut Deere's were the only reels that have the highest hoc that JD makes.
> 
> Another thing that comes to mind is the fact that it is Bermuda and with it having stalks or 20-30 percent only being leaf tissue. Can just see the roller laying the stalks a different way on each pass. In my mind you would see stalks and the tissue folded over. Idk hopefully something will work out for him and he doesn't end up deep in his quest.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So the E-Cuts you like for the higher HOC? I'm tempted to find one to play with. High is subjective but 1in is high to me.
Click to expand...

Not necessarily for a higher hoc. But max on them are 1.30 without GTC and 1.42 with GTC both with using a 2" roller. To me they do seem forgiving when you have grain and can get away with giving the floating head more attitude or rake to say to speak. I haven't had any problems with the electric reel motors or controller and locking down on mowing as long as you are cutting appropriately. On undulations the floating head is awesome. I do have a 260sl and a 180sl and by far the floating head handles my undulations far better. I tend to get in a different mood each year and will use one over the other, but I do enjoy the E. One of my biggest likes of it is, that I have one switch bypassed so that I can leave the reel spinning all the time unlike the fixed heads where you have to engage the drive for the reel to spin as you know. Kinda helps on getting around things at a slower pace but easing it through them while still having full rotation on the reel. Before I bought one the dealer I use talked me out of one as my first reel because of the controller being $900 bucks if it ever messes up but I waited a few years and just rolled the dice as I wanted one and went for it. No problems so far.

You are close to me and more than welcome to take it for a bit or a spin at your place anytime you want.

The only other similar greens mower would be the jakes with the Incommand with the way that I have the E set.


----------



## GreenLand

No frustration here. Just making sure you guys know I understand what you are saying. If 1.5 ends up being the max Im ok with that.

The reason for hoping for an inch or so in range is some days I may not make it home to cut and there may be a few days in between. So I don't want to cut too much and windup with a hard scalp when its not wanted.

Ultimately this is a fun project for me as I like tinkering, so if for some reason I feel the need to find a welder or fab things to get the cut I'd like I'll let you guys know. Cheers and thanks for the help.

I typically cut every other day during grow season😅



FATC1TY said:


> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you this is good info. *The range I was thinking was 1.5-3. So if im short an inch it wont matter much. I just have to see what I end up with. I will see where I can get with what I have now then go from there. "No biggie".*
> 
> 
> 
> 🙋🤷🤦
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Don't be frustrated. If you get 1.5 max, be happy, it might be lower. It might be off for cutting wuality, but you can go slower, and cut it in multiple directions, and get a nice finish.
> 
> I would expect you'd like it at that length and how the grass decides to grow. It will be thicker than what you have. Just know you'll have to alter your cultural practices a bit, and mow ALOT. It'll work great for you.
Click to expand...


----------



## MasterMech

GreenLand said:


> ...
> I typically cut every other day during grow season😅
> 
> ...


If you are cutting that much - you are going to be fine mowing within the normal range of the 180C, even without spraying PGR. But that's going to be .100" to 1", not 2"+. It's quite possible to do .500"-750" while mowing 2-3x week, especially if you do use PGR.

Moving to a greensmower reel is not going to produce the same "fluffy" Bermuda lawn you are used to with a rotary. I don't think you'll dislike it, as it will be green throughout and hardly as stemmy or leggy as tall Bermuda is. But if you really want to go tall, perhaps something along the lines of a McLane, Cal Trimmer, or TruCut would serve you better.


----------



## GreenLand

Ah ok well I should of done more homework. I choose JD due to reputation. I wanted a solid machine. So which of the mowers you mentioned have rollers front and back and a honda engine? I'd like to stay away from mowers with wheels on the corners. Maybe I'll change directions with this if I don't like the HOC.

Thank you for your time.



MasterMech said:


> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> I typically cut every other day during grow season😅
> 
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> If you are cutting that much - you are going to be fine mowing within the normal range of the 180C, even without spraying PGR. But that's going to be .100" to 1", not 2"+. It's quite possible to do .500"-750" while mowing 2-3x week, especially if you do use PGR.
> 
> Moving to a greensmower reel is not going to produce the same "fluffy" Bermuda lawn you are used to with a rotary. I don't think you'll dislike it, as it will be green throughout and hardly as stemmy or leggy as tall Bermuda is. But if you really want to go tall, perhaps something along the lines of a McLane, Cal Trimmer, or TruCut would serve you better.
Click to expand...


----------



## MasterMech

GreenLand said:


> Ah ok well I should of done more homework. I choose JD due to reputation. I wanted a solid machine. So which of the mowers you mentioned have rollers front and back and a honda engine? I'd like to stay away from mowers with wheels on the corners. Maybe I'll change directions with this if I don't like the HOC.
> 
> Thank you for your time.


As much as you like to mow, I think you should give Reel Low Bermuda a shot with the Deere you have. It'll be a ton of work to scalp off the lawn in the spring but other than that, it should be similar to the work you were putting in before, just with a whole different visual result. If you don't love it, it's nothing to just let it grow out again.

The only options for going full-roller and 1.5"+ are going to be Allett and Swardman as they are the only two mowers outside of the greensmower category that offer full rear-rollers as opposed to wheels or some strange combination. Mowing tall, a rear roller may not work so well on Bermuda as I can def see it losing traction in a thick lawn. Likely why we see drive wheels on other units! But even with wheels on the back, a full front roller does the most to reduce scalping, especially at low heights. As was pointed out earlier however, if you plan to mow tall, a front roller is probably going to introduce problems with floating the mower over the turf or deflecting the grass away from the cutting action of the reel. Also probably why we see front wheels offered on "homeowner" reels by default as opposed to full-width rollers. Rollers are great for low-mowed turf, but not everybody wants to put in the mow time required to keep Bermuda at <1".


----------



## Hawkeye_311

Anyone know if a kickstand from a JD220A will fit my JD220? For some reason I can only order a 220A kickstand through my Deere dealer online.


----------



## GreenLand

MasterMech said:


> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ah ok well I should of done more homework. I choose JD due to reputation. I wanted a solid machine. So which of the mowers you mentioned have rollers front and back and a honda engine? I'd like to stay away from mowers with wheels on the corners. Maybe I'll change directions with this if I don't like the HOC.
> 
> Thank you for your time.
> 
> 
> 
> As much as you like to mow, I think you should give Reel Low Bermuda a shot with the Deere you have. It'll be a ton of work to scalp off the lawn in the spring but other than that, it should be similar to the work you were putting in before, just with a whole different visual result. If you don't love it, it's nothing to just let it grow out again.
> 
> The only options for going full-roller and 1.5"+ are going to be Allett and Swardman as they are the only two mowers outside of the greensmower category that offer full rear-rollers as opposed to wheels or some strange combination. Mowing tall, a rear roller may not work so well on Bermuda as I can def see it losing traction in a thick lawn. Likely why we see drive wheels on other units! But even with wheels on the back, a full front roller does the most to reduce scalping, especially at low heights. As was pointed out earlier however, if you plan to mow tall, a front roller is probably going to introduce problems with floating the mower over the turf or deflecting the grass away from the cutting action of the reel. Also probably why we see front wheels offered on "homeowner" reels by default as opposed to full-width rollers. Rollers are great for low-mowed turf, but not everybody wants to put in the mow time required to keep Bermuda at <1".
Click to expand...

Great! Yes sir I for whatever reason I love cutting my grass. My wife says " again" lol. You got me thinking man. Maybe I can make this work for me.

So if I under stand the FOC must equal HOC for quality of cut to be perfect? So does that insure the bedknife is parallel to the ground?

The Allett 17in looks like the one I will go with down the road. Mainly for the attachments. It's a solid contender for what I need. I'll put funds to the side for it as the total is like $4,500 for the mower and attachments.


----------



## GreenLand

Contact Chris. He can get you set or point you in the right direction.

https://www.ebay.com/usr/generalturfequipment



Hawkeye_311 said:


> Anyone know if a kickstand from a JD220A will fit my JD220? For some reason I can only order a 220A kickstand through my Deere dealer online.


----------



## MasterMech

GreenLand said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ah ok well I should of done more homework. I choose JD due to reputation. I wanted a solid machine. So which of the mowers you mentioned have rollers front and back and a honda engine? I'd like to stay away from mowers with wheels on the corners. Maybe I'll change directions with this if I don't like the HOC.
> 
> Thank you for your time.
> 
> 
> 
> As much as you like to mow, I think you should give Reel Low Bermuda a shot with the Deere you have. It'll be a ton of work to scalp off the lawn in the spring but other than that, it should be similar to the work you were putting in before, just with a whole different visual result. If you don't love it, it's nothing to just let it grow out again.
> 
> The only options for going full-roller and 1.5"+ are going to be Allett and Swardman as they are the only two mowers outside of the greensmower category that offer full rear-rollers as opposed to wheels or some strange combination. Mowing tall, a rear roller may not work so well on Bermuda as I can def see it losing traction in a thick lawn. Likely why we see drive wheels on other units! But even with wheels on the back, a full front roller does the most to reduce scalping, especially at low heights. As was pointed out earlier however, if you plan to mow tall, a front roller is probably going to introduce problems with floating the mower over the turf or deflecting the grass away from the cutting action of the reel. Also probably why we see front wheels offered on "homeowner" reels by default as opposed to full-width rollers. Rollers are great for low-mowed turf, but not everybody wants to put in the mow time required to keep Bermuda at <1".
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Great! Yes sir I for whatever reason I love cutting my grass. My wife says " again" lol. You got me thinking man. Maybe I can make this work for me.
> 
> So if I under stand the FOC must equal HOC for quality of cut to be perfect? So does that insure the bedknife is parallel to the ground?
> 
> The Allett 17in looks like the one I will go with down the road. Mainly for the attachments. It's a solid contender for what I need. I'll put funds to the side for it as the total is like $4,500 for the mower and attachments.
Click to expand...

You will most definitely produce a differentiating level of quality mowing at sub-1" vs any neighboring lawns that are not.

FoC does not HAVE to equal HoC by any means. That becomes more important as we approach putting green heights. But for .500"+, it sure isn't a requirement. Things to keep in mind, a larger distance between the reel blades means the reel can effectively take a bigger "bite" for each clip. Let's say you're mowing at .500", and the lawn has grown to 750". An 11 blade reel is going to take that .250" bite every time with fewer stragglers than say, a 14-blade reel. Mowing at the same height, you could use a 14-Blade reel, but you would want to mow more frequently to keep the clippings smaller.

The bedknife geometry and attitude is the single largest influence for cut efficiency/quality at any given height. Floating head machines like a Deere 180E/22E or the Toro Flex series will allow for some bedknife attitude adjustment. The cutting angles are built into the bedknife itself and the bed bar or shoe that it's attached to. On a fixed head machine like your 180C, you select a knife, bolt it on, and that's about it. However, all greensmowers generally have different bedknives available to optimize performance at any given HoC. For home lawns, you certainly want a "high-cut" or "fairway" type knife. These can sometimes be called medium section or heavy section knives too. These knives wouldn't work well for mowing a putting green, just like a micro or tournament knife probably isn't going to mow your lawn very well at .500".

For the Allett - Are you talking about a Kensington or the new Stirling? Also, 20" models are likely to resale much faster/better. At least here in the States.


----------



## GreenLand

Ok great. Seems like earlier this year I was able to find a high cut bedknife and a reel with less then 11 blades. No such luck now though. Would you happen to know a place other then R&R that would have or make one?

The Allett model I was thinking is the 
Kensington 17H. Seems like it would work ok out front with the landscape Flower bed and tree stone. I wouldn't mind holding onto it for a long time.



MasterMech said:


> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> As much as you like to mow, I think you should give Reel Low Bermuda a shot with the Deere you have. It'll be a ton of work to scalp off the lawn in the spring but other than that, it should be similar to the work you were putting in before, just with a whole different visual result. If you don't love it, it's nothing to just let it grow out again.
> 
> The only options for going full-roller and 1.5"+ are going to be Allett and Swardman as they are the only two mowers outside of the greensmower category that offer full rear-rollers as opposed to wheels or some strange combination. Mowing tall, a rear roller may not work so well on Bermuda as I can def see it losing traction in a thick lawn. Likely why we see drive wheels on other units! But even with wheels on the back, a full front roller does the most to reduce scalping, especially at low heights. As was pointed out earlier however, if you plan to mow tall, a front roller is probably going to introduce problems with floating the mower over the turf or deflecting the grass away from the cutting action of the reel. Also probably why we see front wheels offered on "homeowner" reels by default as opposed to full-width rollers. Rollers are great for low-mowed turf, but not everybody wants to put in the mow time required to keep Bermuda at <1".
> 
> 
> 
> Great! Yes sir I for whatever reason I love cutting my grass. My wife says " again" lol. You got me thinking man. Maybe I can make this work for me.
> 
> So if I under stand the FOC must equal HOC for quality of cut to be perfect? So does that insure the bedknife is parallel to the ground?
> 
> The Allett 17in looks like the one I will go with down the road. Mainly for the attachments. It's a solid contender for what I need. I'll put funds to the side for it as the total is like $4,500 for the mower and attachments.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You will most definitely produce a differentiating level of quality mowing at sub-1" vs any neighboring lawns that are not.
> 
> FoC does not HAVE to equal HoC by any means. That becomes more important as we approach putting green heights. But for .500"+, it sure isn't a requirement. Things to keep in mind, a larger distance between the reel blades means the reel can effectively take a bigger "bite" for each clip. Let's say you're mowing at .500", and the lawn has grown to 750". An 11 blade reel is going to take that .250" bite every time with fewer stragglers than say, a 14-blade reel. Mowing at the same height, you could use a 14-Blade reel, but you would want to mow more frequently to keep the clippings smaller.
> 
> The bedknife geometry and attitude is the single largest influence for cut efficiency/quality at any given height. Floating head machines like a Deere 180E/22E or the Toro Flex series will allow for some bedknife attitude adjustment. The cutting angles are built into the bedknife itself and the bed bar or shoe that it's attached to. On a fixed head machine like your 180C, you select a knife, bolt it on, and that's about it. However, all greensmowers generally have different bedknives available to optimize performance at any given HoC. For home lawns, you certainly want a "high-cut" or "fairway" type knife. These can sometimes be called medium section or heavy section knives too. These knives wouldn't work well for mowing a putting green, just like a micro or tournament knife probably isn't going to mow your lawn very well at .500".
> 
> For the Allett - Are you talking about a Kensington or the new Stirling? Also, 20" models are likely to resale much faster/better. At least here in the States.
Click to expand...


----------



## Hawkeye_311

GreenLand said:


> Contact Chris. He can get you set or point you in the right direction.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/usr/generalturfequipment
> 
> 
> 
> Hawkeye_311 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know if a kickstand from a JD220A will fit my JD220? For some reason I can only order a 220A kickstand through my Deere dealer online.
Click to expand...

Thanks!


----------



## GreenLand

Welcome!



Hawkeye_311 said:


> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> Contact Chris. He can get you set or point you in the right direction.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/usr/generalturfequipment
> 
> 
> 
> Hawkeye_311 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know if a kickstand from a JD220A will fit my JD220? For some reason I can only order a 220A kickstand through my Deere dealer online.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks!
Click to expand...


----------



## kay7711226

Hawkeye_311 said:


> Anyone know if a kickstand from a JD220A will fit my JD220? For some reason I can only order a 220A kickstand through my Deere dealer online.


I got both model and kickstand seem same to me.


----------



## jimbeckel

Bought my first John Deere greens mower from weeks in December a couple of salvage 180SL's. The courses that turned them in used them as parts mowers and each one was missing parts. The one I am keeping was missing the air cleaner, broken pull rope, HOC adjustment knobs and the last little surprise was the missing bail handle which is unavailable on the used market. A new one costs around $150, I decided to fabricate my own for $30. Attached are my pictures of the process of what I started with and where I'm at. The black handle I removed off of the other mower and used to trace out my pattern. I still have a small bracket to make which will be welded onto the bare metal handle I cut out of the plate of steel that bolts onto the handle assembly.


----------



## GreenLand

Nice fab work!!!


----------



## jimbeckel

GreenLand said:


> Nice fab work!!!


I did it all by hand, inside corners with a hole saw, straight lines with a metal cutoff wheel and jigsaw. Lots of grinding and sanding. It's pretty darn close to the original in size and saved me $100.


----------



## GreenLand

I must say that takes some talent and a strong imagination. I am following as I need to do the same with my 180c. Mine was a parts machine and I finally got 95% of it together. Do you plan to powder coat it? Im all about saving money as well.



jimbeckel said:


> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fab work!!!
> 
> 
> 
> I did it all by hand, inside corners with a hole saw, straight lines with a metal cutoff wheel and jigsaw. Lots of grinding and sanding. It's pretty darn close to the original in size and saved me $100.
Click to expand...


----------



## jimbeckel

I'll probably rattle can it. last item I had powder coated here ended up rusting


GreenLand said:


> I must say that takes some talent and a strong imagination. I am following as I need to do the same with my 180c. Mine was a parts machine and I finally got 95% of it together. Do you plan to powder coat it? Im all about saving money as well.
> 
> 
> 
> jimbeckel said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice fab work!!!
> 
> 
> 
> I did it all by hand, inside corners with a hole saw, straight lines with a metal cutoff wheel and jigsaw. Lots of grinding and sanding. It's pretty darn close to the original in size and saved me $100.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## GreenLand

Good deal. Have you made any progress with it yet?



jimbeckel said:


> I'll probably rattle can it. last item I had powder coated here ended up rusting
> 
> 
> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> I must say that takes some talent and a strong imagination. I am following as I need to do the same with my 180c. Mine was a parts machine and I finally got 95% of it together. Do you plan to powder coat it? Im all about saving money as well.
> 
> 
> 
> jimbeckel said:
> 
> 
> 
> I did it all by hand, inside corners with a hole saw, straight lines with a metal cutoff wheel and jigsaw. Lots of grinding and sanding. It's pretty darn close to the original in size and saved me $100.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## jimbeckel

It's done just need to put a coat of clear on it


----------



## GreenLand

Man thats sweet!!! Looks perfect! I'll have to get to work on making one asap.


----------



## GreenLand

Hi all, I am looking to remove the bolt that holds the gear on the reel. Which direction does it spin off? Clockwise or counter clockwise? Thanks


----------



## g-man

I'm not sure what bolt you are referring but every bolt on my JD was the normal thread.


----------



## GreenLand

g-man said:


> I'm not sure what bolt you are referring but every bolt on my JD was the normal thread.


Ok good deal. I am speaking of part number 11 next to the word inc.


----------



## rsh87

Hey guys,

I am trying to get my head around the torque values on my 180B, the manuel states that det reel shoulder bolt with the compression spring, should be 62.4 N•m. Can anyone confirm that i am reading this correct, before i tighten this bolt? 😬


----------



## g-man

The shoulder bolt is the one that mounts the reel assembly to the bedknife assembly. In your image, it is the bolt straight down from the letter A.

A shoulder bolt is kinda like a dowel pin with threads at the end.


----------



## rsh87

g-man said:


> The shoulder bolt is the one that mounts the reel assembly to the bedknife assembly. In your image, it is the bolt straight down from the letter A.
> 
> A shoulder bolt is kinda like a dowel pin with threads at the end.


Yes indeed, but that's also what i think is confusing me, it seems like both is called a shoulder bolt in the manuel 😅


----------



## fusebox7

Is there a video or guide/walkthrough for replacing a QA5 reel?


----------



## g-man

I think the closest is the my 220E rebuild. I rebuild the QA5 head in it. It is actually fairly easy to do.


----------



## fusebox7

g-man said:


> I think the closest is the my 220E rebuild. I rebuild the QA5 head in it. It is actually fairly easy to do.


Ok. Ive read it a few times already this winter  I'll reach out if I run into anything.


----------



## bernstem

fusebox7 said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think the closest is the my 220E rebuild. I rebuild the QA5 head in it. It is actually fairly easy to do.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok. Ive read it a few times already this winter  I'll reach out if I run into anything.
Click to expand...

The service manual is your friend for this.


----------



## Herring

I'm getting grease coming from the height of cut adjustment zerk when adjusting height of cut, any tips on how to correct this or cleaning out this part?


----------



## Jeff20

Herring said:


> I'm getting grease coming from the height of cut adjustment zerk when adjusting height of cut, any tips on how to correct this or cleaning out this part?


It's time to replace it.


----------



## claydus

How bad of an idea is it but a JD 180E off of weeks auction site? There are 4 of them listed for an upcoming auction in March. Nothing noted on the site about drive units being damaged (aka electric motor). Doing backlapping on my JD 220 has become a huge hassle for me lately. The idea of an electric switch to backlap instead of a cordless drill seems more appealing right now.


----------



## GreenLand

claydus said:


> How bad of an idea is it but a JD 180E off of weeks auction site? There are 4 of them listed for an upcoming auction in March. Nothing noted on the site about drive units being damaged (aka electric motor). Doing backlapping on my JD 220 has become a huge hassle for me lately. The idea of an electric switch to backlap instead of a cordless drill seems more appealing right now.


Hi. How often are you having to backlap? Just wondering.


----------



## claydus

GreenLand said:


> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> How bad of an idea is it but a JD 180E off of weeks auction site? There are 4 of them listed for an upcoming auction in March. Nothing noted on the site about drive units being damaged (aka electric motor). Doing backlapping on my JD 220 has become a huge hassle for me lately. The idea of an electric switch to backlap instead of a cordless drill seems more appealing right now.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi. How often are you having to backlap? Just wondering.
Click to expand...

It has varied... if it's not cutting paper all the way across (which typically it just pulls the paper on the far ends) then I will do a full backlap across entire reel. I would say every 2 months during peak mowing season May-Sept. I backlapped a few weeks ago since my last reel mow in October. If I had a dedicated backlapping power drill vs a cordless then it would be slightly easier. Or even some kind of contraption that i could fabricate to hold the drill steady for long period of lapping.


----------



## GreenLand

Ok I understand. Thank you.



claydus said:


> GreenLand said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> claydus said:
> 
> 
> 
> How bad of an idea is it but a JD 180E off of weeks auction site? There are 4 of them listed for an upcoming auction in March. Nothing noted on the site about drive units being damaged (aka electric motor). Doing backlapping on my JD 220 has become a huge hassle for me lately. The idea of an electric switch to backlap instead of a cordless drill seems more appealing right now.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi. How often are you having to backlap? Just wondering.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It has varied... if it's not cutting paper all the way across (which typically it just pulls the paper on the far ends) then I will do a full backlap across entire reel. I would say every 2 months during peak mowing season May-Sept. I backlapped a few weeks ago since my last reel mow in October. If I had a dedicated backlapping power drill vs a cordless then it would be slightly easier. Or even some kind of contraption that i could fabricate to hold the drill steady for long period of lapping.
Click to expand...


----------



## claydus

Anyone run into the drive lever sticking even after the bale lever is released? I replace the entire cable about 2 years ago.


----------



## jimbeckel

My weeks auction resto almost completed.


----------



## GreenLand

A couple things. There is a cam that locks it into place that gets worn. You can put a little grease on it and that would help.

The spring at the pulleys could be a little weak or the cable could need adjustment.

You may be able to adjust the cable tension and get it to release as desired.

Have you applied grease to the handle? If it rotates freely you likely do not need to.



claydus said:


> Anyone run into the drive lever sticking even after the bale lever is released? I replace the entire cable about 2 years ago.


----------



## cnet24

jimbeckel said:


> My weeks auction resto almost completed.


Nicely done! Looks great.

Any tips for cleaning the drive and parking brake levers? Mine are starting to get some rust on them from sweat, etc in the summer.


----------



## jimbeckel

cnet24 said:


> jimbeckel said:
> 
> 
> 
> My weeks auction resto almost completed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nicely done! Looks great.
> 
> Any tips for cleaning the drive and parking brake levers? Mine are starting to get some rust on them from sweat, etc in the summer.
Click to expand...

Maybe try some steel wool or a very high grit sandpaper. Another product to try would be fitz polish very handy stuff


----------



## Herring

jimbeckel said:


> My weeks auction resto almost completed.


Looks brand new! Did you repaint with the Rust-Oleum color in the picture? What did you use as a engine cleaner to get it all cleaned up? Fantastic work.


----------



## jimbeckel

I had the tank and light bracket powder coated, the engine I degreased with purple power degreaser and cleaned it with a detailing brush. Thanks for the compliments.


----------



## lbb091919

jimbeckel said:


> My weeks auction resto almost completed.


Amazing work. Looks new. I'd love to overhaul my 220SL eventually.


----------



## Rowdy

Question for all the experts here, I'm looking for my first reel mower and wondering which JD would be the most noob friendly? Would jumping into an ecut be too much? I noticed a few at the upcoming weeks auction.


----------



## Wile

Can anyone show me some closeups of their kickstands and spring orientation? I'm having some trouble figuring out how to install the spring so there is tension to hold it off the ground when upright. I have 260B if someone has that exact one.


----------



## thatguyhileman

Wile said:


> Can anyone show me some closeups of their kickstands and spring orientation? I'm having some trouble figuring out how to install the spring so there is tension to hold it off the ground when upright. I have 260B if someone has that exact one.




This is a 180sl. But might be the same setup.


----------



## Wile

thatguyhileman said:


> Wile said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone show me some closeups of their kickstands and spring orientation? I'm having some trouble figuring out how to install the spring so there is tension to hold it off the ground when upright. I have 260B if someone has that exact one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a 180sl. But might be the same setup.
Click to expand...

Thank you! It should be the same setup. Now, I just have to figure out how to pull the spring around and thread the screw. Hard for me to do one-handed and might ask a friend.


----------



## AUspicious

So I've had a "problem" with worm castings for as long as I've been reel mowing (4 years). I've considered purchasing the roller brush attachment for my 220b. But it looks like it's situated behind the front roller. I wonder if the front roller would mash down the castings before the brush could do it's thing. Has anyone used the brush to do this with any success or should I continue manually brushing the castings away before I mow? Thanks.


----------



## lbb091919

AUspicious said:


> So I've had a "problem" with worm castings for as long as I've been reel mowing (4 years). I've considered purchasing the roller brush attachment for my 220b. But it looks like it's situated behind the front roller. I wonder if the front roller would mash down the castings before the brush could do it's thing. Has anyone used the brush to do this with any success or should I continue manually brushing the castings away before I mow? Thanks.


I have a rotary brush and it does help to get debris out of the way even if the front roller smashes things down. I also think it helps lift the grass blades up for the bedknife but I have no proof of this. The manual says to set the height 1mm above the HOC but I actually set it a little lower.

However, adding a GTC to your mower is very expensive so it's probably not cost effective to knock down worm castings.


----------



## bernstem

For a 220e a new GTC is ~2500.00. There doesn't seem to be a part number for the entire GTC attachment for the 220B so a new one might be a challenge to build.


----------



## AUspicious

Thanks for the insights. I suspected it would be expensive, but wow. Maybe I'll buy a dew whip instead. LOL!


----------



## ttwizards

I have an older model I think it's a 22 or 22R and when it starts the mower moves forward and it's in the neutral position. Any idea what it can be


----------



## lbb091919

ttwizards said:


> I have an older model I think it's a 22 or 22R and when it starts the mower moves forward and it's in the neutral position. Any idea what it can be


If it just creeps forward then you need to perform a "fine adjustment" of the clutch cable. If it moves quickly then a "coarse adjustment" of the belt tension is required. Do you have the service manual for your model? The detailed instructions will be in there.


----------



## ttwizards

lbb091919 said:


> ttwizards said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have an older model I think it's a 22 or 22R and when it starts the mower moves forward and it's in the neutral position. Any idea what it can be
> 
> 
> 
> If it just creeps forward then you need to perform a "fine adjustment" of the clutch cable. If it moves quickly then a "coarse adjustment" of the belt tension is required. Do you have the service manual for your model? The detailed instructions will be in there.
Click to expand...

Sorry buddy don't have the manual I purchased 2 of them for $150 and the other one turns on normal. I figured for the price was a good deal. The motor is a Kawasaki and has these numbers on it FG 150G-BT 51


----------



## lbb091919

ttwizards said:


> Sorry buddy don't have the manual I purchased 2 of them for $150 and the other one turns on normal. I figured for the price was a good deal. The motor is a Kawasaki and has these numbers on it FG 150G-BT 51


I wasnt able to find the manual online without purchasing one. Silly.

Looking at the parts breakdown of the drivetrain it's a belt drive and the tension is still probably the culprit. Maybe someone that knows more about the old 22's can chime in.


----------



## Jaxnoah

Hello guys!! I have a 180c and have been looking for some transport wheels. Just seeing if anyone here has any that they don't use. I would buy them from you. Thank you!


----------



## ellsbebc

Just acquired a 220SL and trying to complete some maintenance before the mowing season. I'm currently reducing the deflection on both the reel and roller drive chain. What specific grease do you guys use when lubing the chains?

I saw Pete's awesome rebuild thread but he didn't specify type of grease used on the chains: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1500&start=20#p28734

Edit: I might be overthinking this. Do I grease the chain with the same JD SD polyurea grease used in the zerks?


----------



## bernstem

@ellsbebc I use the JD SD Polyurea grease. The GTC and reel bearings get the JD Golf and Turf Cutting Unit Grease.


----------



## ReelMowLow74

I use the JD Poly as well. I don't have 2 different grease guns so everything gets that. Not sure if that's right but it's what has worked for me thus far.


----------



## ellsbebc

Thanks, guys. I was def overthinking it. Read Pete's thread again and he did the same.



Pete1313 said:


> I then adjusted the deflection to spec, which is 7/16" for the roller chain. The deflection is easy to adjust. All you do is loosen the nut on the idler pulley and then slide it tighter or looser, measure your deflection and then tighten the nut on the idler. I then cleaned off any large debris, and then added some more grease to the chain. *John Deere recommends using John Deere Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease or an NLGI grade No.2 equivalent grease.* How the chain looks with the proper deflection.


----------



## g-man

ReelMowLow74 said:


> I use the JD Poly as well. I don't have 2 different grease guns so everything gets that. Not sure if that's right but it's what has worked for me thus far.


The poly is very thick compared to the golf grease.


----------



## kay7711226

Some notes from my journal "tips/tricks" anyone who might run into this issue.

The 220 for some strange reason started surging during idle, was not happening on the mows last fall. Did install a new carb(Kawasaki FE engine) but it ran fine for 4-5 mows, however had to adjust/backout the idle screw on the carb(1.5 turns) it was fully tighten. Runs fine now.


----------



## Tx_LawnNerd

Does anyone have a source for a GTC unit for a 220e? Prefer a used unit but will consider new if required. I am picking up a 220e tomorrow with the brush and am looking to get the metal groomer unit instead of the nylon brush so I can extend the time between verticuting sessions and help eliminate some graining. I believe it is a straight swap but if anyone knows different please let me know before I spring for a GTC unit. Thanks in advance


----------



## bernstem

@Tx_LawnNerd I have not seen a used GTC for sale. New units are expensive. I don't know of any aftermarket GTC units so you may be stuck with OEM. You should check with your dealer to confirm part numbers before buying, but I believe the part numbers are: 
Drive unit (BTC10767) ~1700.00
GTC shaft (BTC10778) ~450.00
Counterweight (BM22704) ~100.00


----------



## Tx_LawnNerd

bernstem said:


> @Tx_LawnNerd I have not seen a used GTC for sale. New units are expensive. I don't know of any aftermarket GTC units so you may be stuck with OEM. You should check with your dealer to confirm part numbers before buying, but I believe the part numbers are:
> Drive unit (BTC10767) ~1700.00
> GTC shaft (BTC10778) ~450.00
> Counterweight (BM22704) ~100.00


Thanks for the info!


----------



## Dad_Who_Mows_Best

bernstem said:


> @Tx_LawnNerd I have not seen a used GTC for sale. New units are expensive. I don't know of any aftermarket GTC units so you may be stuck with OEM. You should check with your dealer to confirm part numbers before buying, but I believe the part numbers are:
> Drive unit (BTC10767) ~1700.00
> GTC shaft (BTC10778) ~450.00
> Counterweight (BM22704) ~100.00


Hi, what does the counterweight look like?

Thanks,
Michael


----------



## bernstem

Dad_Who_Mows_Best said:


> Hi, what does the counterweight look like?
> 
> Thanks,
> Michael


It is part number 5:
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/74880/level/2/snp/MTgzOTg5OkNIQVBURVJbMTA2MTojQlVTSU5FU1NfUkVHSU9OLDYwODE6I0NBVEFMT0csNzQ4ODA6RVFVSVBNRU5UXQ

You can see it on the right side of the reel here:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=75


----------



## Dad_Who_Mows_Best

bernstem said:


> Dad_Who_Mows_Best said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, what does the counterweight look like?
> 
> Thanks,
> Michael
> 
> 
> 
> It is part number 5:
> https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/74880/level/2/snp/MTgzOTg5OkNIQVBURVJbMTA2MTojQlVTSU5FU1NfUkVHSU9OLDYwODE6I0NBVEFMT0csNzQ4ODA6RVFVSVBNRU5UXQ
> 
> You can see it on the right side of the reel here:
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=75
Click to expand...

Thanks! A picture is worth a 1000 words


----------



## pp6000v2

New 260B owner, it came with the greens tender conditioner assembly on it. The manual says to set the GTC at a maximum 1/32" below cutting height, which at a greens height of 1/8", is 25% of HOC.

I'm trying to maintain at 0.80", at least for a while. Having cut now at 0.80" several times, that 1/32" doesn't seem to make a difference. If I scale up, 25% would mean setting the GTC at 0.60".

For those using a GTC and mowing at some height greater than 1/8"... how low below the HOC are you setting the GTC teeth?


----------



## bernstem

pp6000v2 said:


> For those using a GTC and mowing at some height greater than 1/8"... how low below the HOC are you setting the GTC teeth?


A reasonable starting point would be to set the GTC to half the height of the reel. If you are cutting at 0.8 inches, set the GTC to 0.4 inches. Adjust up/down as needed for desired results. You don't want the GTC to be contacting ground, though.


----------



## kay7711226

bernstem said:


> pp6000v2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> For those using a GTC and mowing at some height greater than 1/8"... how low below the HOC are you setting the GTC teeth?
> 
> 
> 
> A reasonable starting point would be to set the GTC to half the height of the reel. If you are cutting at 0.8 inches, set the GTC to 0.4 inches. Adjust up/down as needed for desired results. You don't want the GTC to be contacting ground, though.
Click to expand...

Regarding the GTC and HOC, anyone have experience with tearing of the grass blades with a GTC? Suspecting it's the GTC because my 220a cuts fine at the same height without GTC. My 220 GTC is set at 1/8 below HOC raised it a touch to see the impact. HOC 20mm.


----------



## ABC123

Been trying to decode my plate on the 2653A

Anybody have any idea on what year it is?

M02653D070982


----------



## g-man

pp6000v2 said:


> For those using a GTC and mowing at some height greater than 1/8"... how low below the HOC are you setting the GTC teeth?


I'm around 0.5in from the ground in the gtc, and 3/4in hoc. If I try to go lower with the GTC, the springs are too expanded and dont apply enough force to keep the gtc down. I need to add some spacer (to do list).


----------



## Pete1313

ABC123 said:


> Been trying to decode my plate on the 2653A
> 
> Anybody have any idea on what year it is?
> 
> M02653D070982


@ABC123 it's a 1998.


----------



## Pete1313

g-man said:


> pp6000v2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> For those using a GTC and mowing at some height greater than 1/8"... how low below the HOC are you setting the GTC teeth?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm around 0.5in from the ground in the gtc, and 3/4in hoc. If I try to go lower with the GTC, the springs are too expanded and dont apply enough force to keep the gtc down. I need to add some spacer (to do list).
Click to expand...

Same setting for me as well. FTC @ .5", HOC @ .75".


----------



## lbb091919

I have the rotary brush attachment and have always had it set about 3mm lower than HOC. This has me wanting to experiment dropping it down to help raise the blades after the front roller pushes them down.


----------



## sbandit

cnet24 said:


> First complete season with my JD220E. I thought about switching to a 7 blade reel this off-season due to my HOC, but for now I'm trying to make my 11 blade reel work.
> 
> I am getting the washboard effect already and understand it is due to an FOC issue. Luckily, I have the ability to change that on my 220e but so far any adjustment I have made has not changed the after cut appearance. Is the only fix here going to a 7 blade reel?
> 
> HOC: .350"
> FOC range tried: .028"-0.38"


Greenskeeper has explained to me it is Ideal to change directions if possible to get a more even cut.


----------



## itslogz

Hit a random old thick rusty nail scalping to 1/4" with my 220E, put a real good ding in 2 blades, backlapped it enough to get by for awhile Since I'm not prepping Augusta National by no means. I keep my HOC between 1/4" and 5/8" max through the year, should I stick with 11 blade that I have now or go with a 7 blade with my replacement that I plan to do soon? Ideally I like to maintain 3/8"


----------



## ABC123

If you have an 11 I'd just keep mowing with it. Can you even notice a cut difference?


----------



## Pclaunch

I have a 220a with the groomer attached. I have found that if I use the groomer at 1/2 inch HOC I get a pretty good cut and better stripes. The groomer also pulls up Bermuda runners that have to use multiple passes to clean up. I have seen some of the newer JDs with a nylon brush on the groomer instead of the blades. Would that fit my groomer and does anyone know of a part number or source for the brush roller? I can't seem to find any info on them.


----------



## bernstem

Pclaunch said:


> I have a 220a with the groomer attached. I have found that if I use the groomer at 1/2 inch HOC I get a pretty good cut and better stripes. The groomer also pulls up Bermuda runners that have to use multiple passes to clean up. I have seen some of the newer JDs with a nylon brush on the groomer instead of the blades. Would that fit my groomer and does anyone know of a part number or source for the brush roller? I can't seem to find any info on them.


https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/sidebyside/equipment/59759/referrer/navigation/pgId/40789819

part#AMT751 (#8 in the part diagram)


----------



## krusej23

Pete1313 said:


> ABC123 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Been trying to decode my plate on the 2653A
> 
> Anybody have any idea on what year it is?
> 
> M02653D070982
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @ABC123 it's a 1998.
Click to expand...

Where did you find this? I'm trying to find the year of my 220c.


----------



## pp6000v2

krusej23 said:


> Where did you find this? I'm trying to find the year of my 220c.


There's a document up on JD's parts website that has model serials by year that's listed below the microfiche selections. Here's the 220C's:

https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc...ers__Introduction?a=7964&br=1061&locale=en-US


----------



## krusej23

pp6000v2 said:


> krusej23 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you find this? I'm trying to find the year of my 220c.
> 
> 
> 
> There's a document up on JD's parts website that has model serials by year that's listed below the microfiche selections. Here's the 220C's:
> 
> https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc...ers__Introduction?a=7964&br=1061&locale=en-US
Click to expand...

Perfect, thank you! Looks like mine is a 2007 model.


----------



## itslogz

Mowed for about a hour yesterday with my 220e and reel shut off, got error code 8-1, alternator 265 degrees with infrared thermometer &#129396;

Belt seems fine, reel spins freely, I was only cutting about 1/4" of grass off, anyone have any experience with this issue? I assume I'm about to have to shell out money for a alternator


----------



## BBLOCK

My 220a reel wouldn't spin, took things apart and started looking around. Realized the gears for the groomer are binding up and I'm not sure why.

I need to locate the diagram and figure it out I guess.


----------



## shan0mak

Well I'm joining the club tomorrow.

Wondering what I should do first to ensure longevity?

It is running, cutting paper, and drives.

I'm willing to learn/attempt any maintenance needed.


----------



## pp6000v2

shan0mak said:


> Well I'm joining the club tomorrow.
> 
> Wondering what I should do first to ensure longevity?
> 
> It is running, cutting paper, and drives.
> 
> I'm willing to learn/attempt any maintenance needed.


To ensure longevity? Cut off the transport axles, and send the wheels to some unsuspecting sucker... like me. I will send you my info  .

After that, find a .001 feeler gauge. I figured one of my sets would have it, but nope- smallest on all of them is .0015 and the manual calls for .001". Is half a thou a deal breaker? Eh, but I'm not cutting at 1/8".

Backlapping compound and a brush. I found a 2-grit combo with a brush on Amazon, the Pin High starter set, ended up being $30. Going forward I may pick up a tub of 220 compound.


----------



## lbb091919

Pick up some John Deere SD Polyurea Grease and a gun. Nice mower!


----------



## cnet24

shan0mak said:


> Well I'm joining the club tomorrow.
> 
> Wondering what I should do first to ensure longevity?
> 
> It is running, cutting paper, and drives.
> 
> I'm willing to learn/attempt any maintenance needed.


Looks great! Congrats! And with a groomer, nice.


----------



## shan0mak

lbb091919 said:


> Pick up some John Deere SD Polyurea Grease and a gun. Nice mower!





cnet24 said:


> shan0mak said:
> 
> 
> 
> 1653073035[/url] user_id=18134]
> Well I'm joining the club tomorrow.
> 
> Wondering what I should do first to ensure longevity?
> 
> It is running, cutting paper, and drives.
> 
> I'm willing to learn/attempt any maintenance needed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks great! Congrats! And with a groomer, nice.
Click to expand...




pp6000v2 said:


> shan0mak said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well I'm joining the club tomorrow.
> 
> Wondering what I should do first to ensure longevity?
> 
> It is running, cutting paper, and drives.
> 
> I'm willing to learn/attempt any maintenance needed.
> 
> 
> 
> To ensure longevity? Cut off the transport axles, and send the wheels to some unsuspecting sucker... like me. I will send you my info  .
> 
> After that, find a .001 feeler gauge. I figured one of my sets would have it, but nope- smallest on all of them is .0015 and the manual calls for .001". Is half a thou a deal breaker? Eh, but I'm not cutting at 1/8".
> 
> Backlapping compound and a brush. I found a 2-grit combo with a brush on Amazon, the Pin High starter set, ended up being $30. Going forward I may pick up a tub of 220 compound.
Click to expand...

Scooped it for $900 all in. Got a deal I suspect.

Pin high Set and a grease gun ordered. Will have to find the JD grease.

Not cutting the transport axels until I make a decision on mowing the back lawn! Even then… I may landscape the fence line instead of cutting the axles.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## SeanBB

I want one of these so damn bad but can't find one


----------



## ellsbebc

shan0mak said:


> Scooped it for $900 all in. Got a deal I suspect.
> 
> Pin high Set and a grease gun ordered. *Will have to find the JD grease. *
> 
> Not cutting the transport axels until I make a decision on mowing the back lawn! Even then… I may landscape the fence line instead of cutting the axles.
> 
> Thanks for the help!


https://www.amazon.com/John-Deere-Original-Equipment-Grease/dp/B00CAXDJOE/ref=pd_rhf_dp_s_pd_crcd_sccl_2_2/134-7378729-9035357?pd_rd_w=QXAzF&pf_rd_p=cee83ff1-8fc1-4533-a3f5-bf3d998f4558&pf_rd_r=X3JJGEPPRSME7B5MN2A6&pd_rd_r=a5c8f0ea-d4df-43b3-8e27-efd036008cb9&pd_rd_wg=IFCVv&pd_rd_i=B00CAXDJOE&psc=1

https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Deere-Multi-Purpose-SD-Polyurea-Gun-Grease-TY6341.html


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

itslogz said:


> Mowed for about a hour yesterday with my 220e and reel shut off, got error code 8-1, alternator 265 degrees with infrared thermometer 🥴
> 
> Belt seems fine, reel spins freely, I was only cutting about 1/4" of grass off, anyone have any experience with this issue? I assume I'm about to have to shell out money for a alternator


Mine made a squeaking noise that I assume was the bearing failing. I could mow for about 20 minutes before it would overheat. If you let it cool down and then it works again you know it's the alternator. I believe gman rebuilt one but it looked like more effort than I was willing to put into it. I ended up with a refurb from ozark fairways but if it ever fails I'd just buy a factory unit as the cost savings wasn't as much as I hoped.


----------



## shan0mak

Well I learned something already about repairs lol.

The bail arm wasn't engaged and just freely moving, and the drive lever had to be held down to move the machine and keep things engaged.

There's a metal piece the drive arm connects to and it had slipped out of its correct seating. Luckily an easy one!


----------



## ianreelmows

Hi all, I'm new here as I just purchased this 2010 180c today from www.usedreemowers.com

This will be my first powered reel mower ever, I didn't want to waste time on a homeowner model mower.

One thing I'm having trouble finding is a service manual for these mowers online, can anyone help with that?

In prep for the delivery later this week, I'm purchasing a grease gun, some all purpose grease, 10w-30 oil, fresh air filter, and spark plug before I even bother cutting with it. Any other suggestions? I don't have a HOC meter so I'm going to DIY that for now too.


----------



## krusej23

I bought a 220C a couple weeks ago and I measured the reel to be about 4.62" using a string and the circumference. Is that enough left to get a relief grind on it? It has a spin grind on it currently and cuts okay. I'm replacing the bedknife that looks worn down and iffy. This is my first powered reel mower so I'm planning to use the rest of this reel as a testing time to get used to reel mowing. Then I will switch to the 9 blade reel at some point instead of the 11. Thanks for any help.


----------



## krusej23

krusej23 said:


> pp6000v2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> krusej23 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you find this? I'm trying to find the year of my 220c.
> 
> 
> 
> There's a document up on JD's parts website that has model serials by year that's listed below the microfiche selections. Here's the 220C's:
> 
> https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc...ers__Introduction?a=7964&br=1061&locale=en-US
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Perfect, thank you! Looks like mine is a 2007 model.
Click to expand...

Welcome to the 2007 220C club.


----------



## kay7711226

krusej23 said:


> I bought a 220C a couple weeks ago and I measured the reel to be about 4.62" using a string and the circumference. Is that enough left to get a relief grind on it? It has a spin grind on it currently and cuts okay. I'm replacing the bedknife that looks worn down and iffy. This is my first powered reel mower so I'm planning to use the rest of this reel as a testing time to get used to reel mowing. Then I will switch to the 9 blade reel at some point instead of the 11. Thanks for any help.


Nice Dog! :lol: :lol: :lol:

How is the cut quality now? If it is good enough, 4.62" can last a long time based on how much you are mowing. 
My 220a is under 4.5" and still has great quality cuts.


----------



## krusej23

kay7711226 said:


> krusej23 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a 220C a couple weeks ago and I measured the reel to be about 4.62" using a string and the circumference. Is that enough left to get a relief grind on it? It has a spin grind on it currently and cuts okay. I'm replacing the bedknife that looks worn down and iffy. This is my first powered reel mower so I'm planning to use the rest of this reel as a testing time to get used to reel mowing. Then I will switch to the 9 blade reel at some point instead of the 11. Thanks for any help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice Dog! :lol: :lol: :lol:
> 
> How is the cut quality now? If it is good enough, 4.62" can last a long time based on how much you are mowing.
> My 220a is under 4.5" and still has great quality cuts.
Click to expand...

Haven't been able to mow with it yet because I sent it in for a relief grind and a new bedknife since it only had a spin grind. The guy doing the grinding didn't seem too worried and thought there would be enough left for it.


----------



## g-man

krusej23 said:


> I bought a 220C a couple weeks ago and I measured the reel to be about 4.62" using a string and the circumference. Is that enough left to get a relief grind on it? It has a spin grind on it currently and cuts okay. I'm replacing the bedknife that looks worn down and iffy.


Im not sure it is possible or cost effective. First the wheel to do the grind has to fit and I'm not sure it will fit at 4.6". Second, most places will charge you $125 to $150 for the relief. The reel should be replaced at 4.5, so after the grind, you will be at the replace point. Swapping the reel for a new one will be more cost effective. Leave it with the spin and swap it in the winter.


----------



## ianreelmows

SeanBB said:


> I want one of these so damn bad but can't find one


www.usedreelmowers.com is where I bought mine.


----------



## DFW_Zoysia

ianreelmows said:


> SeanBB said:
> 
> 
> 
> I want one of these so damn bad but can't find one
> 
> 
> 
> www.usedreelmowers.com is where I bought mine.
Click to expand...

Those prices are beyond insane - and I don't mean the fact that reel mowers have been getting more expensive in general. I mean what they are charging for 2009 and older units is beyond crazy even in this market.


----------



## cnet24

Will it buff out?


----------



## krusej23

g-man said:


> krusej23 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a 220C a couple weeks ago and I measured the reel to be about 4.62" using a string and the circumference. Is that enough left to get a relief grind on it? It has a spin grind on it currently and cuts okay. I'm replacing the bedknife that looks worn down and iffy.
> 
> 
> 
> Im not sure it is possible or cost effective. First the wheel to do the grind has to fit and I'm not sure it will fit at 4.6". Second, most places will charge you $125 to $150 for the relief. The reel should be replaced at 4.5, so after the grind, you will be at the replace point. Swapping the reel for a new one will be more cost effective. Leave it with the spin and swap it in the winter.
Click to expand...

I already took it to the JD dealership to have a relief grind. The mechanic said he would check it first before doing the grind. I also explained that it will be my test reel since it's so close to end of life. He said even at 4.6" I would get some life out of it as a homeowner. I would rather spend $150 now to grind and put a new bedknife on and possibly damage the reel than to pay $500 for a new reel and install and to damage it.


----------



## ianreelmows

DFW_Zoysia said:


> ianreelmows said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SeanBB said:
> 
> 
> 
> I want one of these so damn bad but can't find one
> 
> 
> 
> www.usedreelmowers.com is where I bought mine.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Those prices are beyond insane - and I don't mean the fact that reel mowers have been getting more expensive in general. I mean what they are charging for 2009 and older units is beyond crazy even in this market.
Click to expand...

I won't disagree with you, however, I have scoured Craigslist for 3 months in my state and 3 surrounding states where people want 1/2 as much for a mower that's been sitting outside for 6 years and doesn't run. The $ was worth the peace of mind knowing it has been serviced and actually runs, and the price was cheaper than buying a homeowner style reel mower new. Guess it depends on where you live and the availability of JDs or Toros. It's basically none from what I can tell around me.


----------



## DFW_Zoysia

ianreelmows said:


> DFW_Zoysia said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ianreelmows said:
> 
> 
> 
> www.usedreelmowers.com is where I bought mine.
> 
> 
> 
> Those prices are beyond insane - and I don't mean the fact that reel mowers have been getting more expensive in general. I mean what they are charging for 2009 and older units is beyond crazy even in this market.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I won't disagree with you, however, I have scoured Craigslist for 3 months in my state and 3 surrounding states where people want 1/2 as much for a mower that's been sitting outside for 6 years and doesn't run. The $ was worth the peace of mind knowing it has been serviced and actually runs, and the price was cheaper than buying a homeowner style reel mower new. Guess it depends on where you live and the availability of JDs or Toros. It's basically none from what I can tell around me.
Click to expand...

I agree with you - I have bought and sold 8 GM's. After the first one I bought for $1200 required $1200 in repairs, I then went the route of always buying the best, nicest one I could find and spend more money up front.

I had bought my first flex locally. The blade was set so tight against the bedknife it practically took two hands to spin it. Not knowing any better I assumed that was correct. It also had a host of other issues I didn't know about at the time. It cost me loads more money, but it was a great learning experience for me on future purchases.


----------



## Lungal09

Hey everyone, I got a question about the 220a I just bought. 
I used it for the first time the other day and it seems to be difficult to get it to start moving smoothly. I have it at half throttle and slowly start pushing the drive handle and it sounds like it starts struggling a bit without moving and then suddenly jerks forward. And it won't keep going on its own, I have to keep it at the Speed I want with my hand. Would that mean the tensioner cable needs replacing?


----------



## ABC123

cnet24 said:


> Will it buff out?


if it cuts paper its all good.


----------



## pp6000v2

Lungal09 said:


> Hey everyone, I got a question about the 220a I just bought.
> I used it for the first time the other day and it seems to be difficult to get it to start moving smoothly. I have it at half throttle and slowly start pushing the drive handle and it sounds like it starts struggling a bit without moving and then suddenly jerks forward. And it won't keep going on its own, I have to keep it at the Speed I want with my hand. Would that mean the tensioner cable needs replacing?


My 260B had issues with fully releasing the clutch lever when I'd let go of the presence bail at the end of a pass. I had to go through and adjust everything from the bail down to the belt idler pulley. But it works perfectly now.

Have you pulled the belt cover off and checked the deflection of the belts? Is the travel clutch lever falling out of the engaged position? There's a pawl and cam in the drive control linkages that should positively hold the drive lever down in the engaged position until you release the operator presence bail. Pages 64-66 of the 220A owner's manual goes through the procedure to adjust the belts, cable, and presence bail.


----------



## Lungal09

pp6000v2 said:


> Lungal09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey everyone, I got a question about the 220a I just bought.
> I used it for the first time the other day and it seems to be difficult to get it to start moving smoothly. I have it at half throttle and slowly start pushing the drive handle and it sounds like it starts struggling a bit without moving and then suddenly jerks forward. And it won't keep going on its own, I have to keep it at the Speed I want with my hand. Would that mean the tensioner cable needs replacing?
> 
> 
> 
> My 260B had issues with fully releasing the clutch lever when I'd let go of the presence bail at the end of a pass. I had to go through and adjust everything from the bail down to the belt idler pulley. But it works perfectly now.
> 
> Have you pulled the belt cover off and checked the deflection of the belts? Is the travel clutch lever falling out of the engaged position? There's a pawl and cam in the drive control linkages that should positively hold the drive lever down in the engaged position until you release the operator presence bail. Pages 64-66 of the 220A owner's manual goes through the procedure to adjust the belts, cable, and presence bail.
Click to expand...

It seems the travel clutch lever falls out of the engaged position because I have to hold it forward to mow. I will go through though pages in the manual and try to adjust everything, thanks!


----------



## ianreelmows

180C just showed up! I got in a test cut on the side yard before I had to head to the office.

A few questions:

1) Anyone know exactly how many floz of oil this motor takes? I changed the oil before running it and the manual says "do not overflow", but when I opened the dip stick to check it before changing it, it began overflowing on level ground. I emptied and filled back up until it just barely overflowed and it was somewhere around 3/4 of a quart. Does that sound right?

2) How often do you guys hit all of the grease fittings? It prob takes me 30-45 min to cut the whole yard so I was thinking once per week?

3) After how many hours are you typically back lapping your reel?


----------



## krusej23

ianreelmows said:


> 180C just showed up! I got in a test cut on the side yard before I had to head to the office.
> 
> A few questions:
> 
> 1) Anyone know exactly how many floz of oil this motor takes? I changed the oil before running it and the manual says "do not overflow", but when I opened the dip stick to check it before changing it, it began overflowing on level ground. I emptied and filled back up until it just barely overflowed and it was somewhere around 3/4 of a quart. Does that sound right?
> 
> 2) How often do you guys hit all of the grease fittings? It prob takes me 30-45 min to cut the whole yard so I was thinking once per week?
> 
> 3) After how many hours are you typically back lapping your reel?


The engine was not level since it sits at an angle on the mower.


----------



## ianreelmows

krusej23 said:


> ianreelmows said:
> 
> 
> 
> 180C just showed up! I got in a test cut on the side yard before I had to head to the office.
> 
> A few questions:
> 
> 1) Anyone know exactly how many floz of oil this motor takes? I changed the oil before running it and the manual says "do not overflow", but when I opened the dip stick to check it before changing it, it began overflowing on level ground. I emptied and filled back up until it just barely overflowed and it was somewhere around 3/4 of a quart. Does that sound right?
> 
> 2) How often do you guys hit all of the grease fittings? It prob takes me 30-45 min to cut the whole yard so I was thinking once per week?
> 
> 3) After how many hours are you typically back lapping your reel?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The engine was not level since it sits at an angle on the mower.
Click to expand...

Well shit. Thanks for letting me know. I guess it looked level to me but I didn't actually check with a bubble level. I'll tilt it and top it off today.


----------



## thelawnpirate

I've been running a TruCut P-20 for a few years now, decided to take the plunge to a greensmower. New to me JD220A pictured below, got it on a pretty good deal I think. It was missing the bail, so I bit the bullet and paid for a new one through the local JD dealer. i know the arm (#2) connected to the bail is supposed to be actually on or aligned with the lower arm (#12). Anything else look "off" underneath the handle area? Planning on doing general cleaning up, greasing, checking cables, etc.


----------



## ianreelmows

Posting this here from a separate post I made about grease guns and zerks since it's specific to the 180C.

How I in the world are you supposed to get to the drive roller zerk on the right side of the mower under the engine? I have a 4" extended coupler and was able to connect to it but when I pumped grease just oozed around the zerk, so I wanted to replace it… but I have no idea how to get down in there to it. This is the last one I need to change and grease according to the manual, so it's bugging me.


----------



## bigpetzi

Does anybody know the size of the roller chain for the reel drive? I want to by a standard industry stock chain. Tks. Stephan from Germany


----------



## itslogz

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> itslogz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Mowed for about a hour yesterday with my 220e and reel shut off, got error code 8-1, alternator 265 degrees with infrared thermometer 🥴
> 
> Belt seems fine, reel spins freely, I was only cutting about 1/4" of grass off, anyone have any experience with this issue? I assume I'm about to have to shell out money for a alternator
> 
> 
> 
> Mine made a squeaking noise that I assume was the bearing failing. I could mow for about 20 minutes before it would overheat. If you let it cool down and then it works again you know it's the alternator. I believe gman rebuilt one but it looked like more effort than I was willing to put into it. I ended up with a refurb from ozark fairways but if it ever fails I'd just buy a factory unit as the cost savings wasn't as much as I hoped.
Click to expand...

Mine has gotten to the same point. Sending mine to Ozarkfairways for a rebuild for $250, the updated part numbers on this now every dealer quotes $800+


----------



## soupy01833

you can check the belt is tight too


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

It was pretty obvious when it was failing. The rebuilt unit the pulley spins freely as it should and my old one was almost impossible to turn by hand.


----------



## ZachUA

Do any of the JD mowers with a floating head offer a HOC above .75"?


----------



## AllisonN

ZachUA said:


> Do any of the JD mowers with a floating head offer a HOC above .75"?


The E series. 180e and 220e


----------



## Herring

Has anyone made this modification to their reel to bedknife adjustment? Instead of a handle cap it looks to be a welded nut or bolt. I overcorrect when making reel to bedknife adjustments and having more torque with a wrench would allow for finer movement.


----------



## bhutchinson87

I don't have a picture of it, but mine has two nuts locked together to provide this same function. Works pretty well.


----------



## cnet24

Anyone here using the front brush attachment?


----------



## ianreelmows

How are you guys setting your reel to bedknife clearance so that you keep your reel from getting tapered? I only have a .0015" feeler gauge but the book calls for .0010". I adjust the left and right back and forth until I can barley spin the reel with the feeler gauge between it and the bedknife on both left and right edges. Hoping that is correct.


----------



## Wile

@ianreelmows Ware posted in this or another thread the amazon link to a .001 feeler gauge. You can also just set the reel so that it is cutting paper, but the reel is tight. Then, back lap with lapping compound. That should give you the correct clearance, but retest that it's cutting paper and spinning freely.


----------



## DustinG2020

I'm looking at a 220B. Reel and bed knife have fresh grind but it's been sitting a while. The Yanmar engine will start but it runs wide open. It will need a carb and air filter. The parking brake is stuck, it that an easy fix? Has grass catcher but no wheels. Is it worth the risk for $300???


----------



## ianreelmows

Anyone here know the best place to find a groomer for a 180C? Or know of a way to do some type of DIY brush kit or something?


----------



## BrainBailey

DustinG2020 said:


> I'm looking at a 220B. Reel and bed knife have fresh grind but it's been sitting a while. The Yanmar engine will start but it runs wide open. It will need a carb and air filter. The parking brake is stuck, it that an easy fix? Has grass catcher but no wheels. Is it worth the risk for $300???


$300 seems a bit high. Try to get them lower.


----------



## BrainBailey

Herring said:


> Has anyone made this modification to their reel to bedknife adjustment? Instead of a handle cap it looks to be a welded nut or bolt. I overcorrect when making reel to bedknife adjustments and having more torque with a wrench would allow for finer movement.


My mower had this mod when I purchased it. I removed the adjustment/spring mechanism that controls the reel/bed knife clearance and chased the threads with a tap. They were corroded and had a lot of resistance. Once I cleaned those up, tightening/loosening was much easier and I converted back to hand caps which I find work better.


----------



## DeliveryMan

Gonna throw this out there -- but you guys might not have any great answers without seeing it yourself..

2013 JD 220 E-cut hybrid -- new to me and just picked it up from the shipper

Clean engine -- starts with the 1st pull.. The light at the handle bars comes on for couple of seconds at the start, but then goes off. All levels work well, as does the travel clutch. The drum spins well. However, I can't get the reel to spin. When I engage the reel and then the clutch it will spin for about 1 revolution, and then stop.. I backed off the reel from the bedknife to make sure it wasn't too close.. Greased up all the zerks that I could find (2 on the reel and each roller, etc.).. Put it in "backlap" setting.. Still nothing..

Must it be the electric motor? Do I just need to take it to a mechanic in town that repairs these things? Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance for any replies

-KM


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

Make sure that belt is tight from the motor to the alternator.


----------



## soupy01833

DeliveryMan said:


> Gonna throw this out there -- but you guys might not have any great answers without seeing it yourself..
> 
> 2013 JD 220 E-cut hybrid -- new to me and just picked it up from the shipper
> 
> Clean engine -- starts with the 1st pull.. The light at the handle bars comes on for couple of seconds at the start, but then goes off. All levels work well, as does the travel clutch. The drum spins well. However, I can't get the reel to spin. When I engage the reel and then the clutch it will spin for about 1 revolution, and then stop.. I backed off the reel from the bedknife to make sure it wasn't too close.. Greased up all the zerks that I could find (2 on the reel and each roller, etc.).. Put it in "backlap" setting.. Still nothing..
> 
> Must it be the electric motor? Do I just need to take it to a mechanic in town that repairs these things? Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any replies
> 
> -KM


check that the alternator belt is tight


----------



## itslogz

DeliveryMan said:


> Gonna throw this out there -- but you guys might not have any great answers without seeing it yourself..
> 
> 2013 JD 220 E-cut hybrid -- new to me and just picked it up from the shipper
> 
> Clean engine -- starts with the 1st pull.. The light at the handle bars comes on for couple of seconds at the start, but then goes off. All levels work well, as does the travel clutch. The drum spins well. However, I can't get the reel to spin. When I engage the reel and then the clutch it will spin for about 1 revolution, and then stop.. I backed off the reel from the bedknife to make sure it wasn't too close.. Greased up all the zerks that I could find (2 on the reel and each roller, etc.).. Put it in "backlap" setting.. Still nothing..
> 
> Must it be the electric motor? Do I just need to take it to a mechanic in town that repairs these things? Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks in advance for any replies
> 
> -KM


It seems like I remember having this trouble when I got my 220E. Check the switch where the bail contacts it, I think I remember mine barely touching it and the switch thought i had the bale released, a quick adjustment to where when holding the bale and engaging the drive it made solid contact with the switch fixed it I believe. If yours is still driving just fine with no reel spinning then this may not be the case


----------



## DeliveryMan

@Boy_meets_lawn 
@soupy01833 
@itslogz

Thanks for the replies - how "tight" is tight enough on the alternator belt?… When I mess with the belt, it seems awfully loose to me (like I can remove it from the alternator pulley without adjusting anything), but when I start the engine the belt is definitely turning the alternator pulley..

-KM


----------



## soupy01833

it should be very tight

this is the service manual

https://techinfo-omview.apps-prod-vpn.us.e06.c01.johndeerecloud.com/omview/omuc27590/09001faa81e66534


----------



## DeliveryMan

@soupy01833

you da man !!!

That was exactly it !!

Now she works like a charm - now to ask my wife how late is too late to take the new mower for a spin!!

Thanks man

-KM


----------



## g-man

You should not set it to backslap. There is a sequence to start the process. First start the engine with reel switch off, wait for the lights to go off. Then let go of the brake, then turn on the reel switch (yellow one) and last last, slowing engage the travel lever.

For ************: Switch the toggle to backslap, start engine with switch off, ensure brake is set, turn on the reel (yellow switch) and it should start turning the reel.


----------



## DustinG2020

I'm being told that the 220B I'm getting has a Yanmar engine. I'm pretty sure it's not a diesel yet everyone associates a Yanmar with diesel. Did JD put Yanmar engines on the B class?


----------



## BrainBailey

DustinG2020 said:


> I'm being told that the 220B I'm getting has a Yanmar engine. I'm pretty sure it's not a diesel yet everyone associates a Yanmar with diesel. Did JD put Yanmar engines on the B class?


I've only seen Honda. I'd be a little suspicious, especially because you said the Yanmar had problems.


----------



## DustinG2020

I don't know anything about Yanmar. The machine doesn't have any major issues. Just need to clean the carb and get a air filter.


----------



## DustinG2020

Ok, I got my 220B home and it definitely has a Honda. Lol. However I have 2 issues. 
1. When fire her up she runs at full throttle. I e cleaned the carb (quickly). Idle adjustment does nothing. Throttle flap on the carb does nothing as well. It sounds good, just need to slow her down.
2. I CANNOT roll forward with the engine off. Parking brake is disengaged. I thought my belts were to tight but when I cranked it up it did run away from my. Any idea what it could be? I didn't engage the reel cause of the high idle.


----------



## Wile

@DustinG2020 is the reel engaged when trying to push it?


----------



## DustinG2020

Wile said:


> @DustinG2020 is the reel engaged when trying to push it?


No the reel is not engaged. When it was running I didn't want to engage the reel or drives cause the idle was so high.


----------



## DustinG2020

Has anyone opened the gear case on a 220B? I have a 220B that's very hard to push forward when off. I took both covers off and everything looks great. But when I'm actually able to push it forward I can hear the gears moving, almost like it stuck in gear. I'd really like to talk to someone that has opened these up.


----------



## nwga_lawn

I haven't took my case apart. Looks like it has a sealant/gasket.

I am assuming that you have the reel disengaged when trying to push it forward? Mine is hard to push when the reel is engaged. Its a lever to the left of the motor as your mowing.


----------



## DustinG2020

nwga_lawn said:


> I haven't took my case apart. Looks like it has a sealant/gasket.
> 
> I am assuming that you have the reel disengaged when trying to push it forward? Mine is hard to push when the reel is engaged. Its a lever to the left of the motor as your mowing.


The reel is definitely disengaged. If I engage the reel and spin it by hand the mower will creep forward. If I disengage the reel and then spin it by hand the reel moves freely. But it's still hard to move forward. My case has some kind of gasket on it as well. I definitely don't want to open a can of worm. I have to adjust the governor today. And then I'm going to fire her up. I think it's been sitting a long time. Hopefully when I get her moving she will loosen up.


----------



## Mattopb3

Backlapping a 220b. What grit lapping compound do you recommend? I have 80 grit from reel rollers from my mclane will that work or do I need something finer


----------



## bernstem

Mattopb3 said:


> Backlapping a 220b. What grit lapping compound do you recommend? I have 80 grit from reel rollers from my mclane will that work or do I need something finer


80 seems a bit coarse for a finish grit to me. I start at 80, then 120, then 220. The 220 grit is probably overkill. I use Pinhigh compound.


----------



## Mattopb3

bernstem said:


> Mattopb3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Backlapping a 220b. What grit lapping compound do you recommend? I have 80 grit from reel rollers from my mclane will that work or do I need something finer
> 
> 
> 
> 80 seems a bit coarse for a finish grit to me. I start at 80, then 120, then 220. The 220 grit is probably overkill. I use Pinhigh compound.
Click to expand...

Thank you


----------



## williams6966

Anyone mowing at .75 or higher with an 11 blade reel? How do you like the cut? Is it clean after 1 pass?


----------



## BrainBailey

I have a 180B with an 11 blade reel and a groomer.

I was initially mowing at .75 when I first started. The cut is far better than a rotary. However, I did notice that over time, more of the grass would lay down versus getting cut. Having a groomer will help with this, but even that can only go down so far.

I recently lowered to 0.575 and the cut is more crisp which is not surprising as the 11 blade reel and matched knives are meant to go much lower. I run the groomer every time. Per some points @g-man had made prior, it helps lift and "fluff" the turf for cutting. My experience confirms his statement. My groomer was broken for the past month and I just recently repaired it. The quality of cut gradually declined without the use of the groomer. All things considered, the end product without the groomer and at even at .75 was still much better than a rotary.

If you can go lower on the blade count, that would be ideal. On the 180s, this isn't an option. You'll probably need to do multiple passes at .75 if you're not mowing every 1-2 days.


----------



## lbb091919

I have a 220SL with an 11 blade and rotary brush cutting at 0.875". In my experience, the cut quality at higher HOC relies heavily on how often you mow. If I let my KBG get out of hand (1"+) then it usually requires a double cut. Even still, a lot of blades get missed. If you can keep up on the mowing you'll notice a huge difference. I also have the brush engaged every time.

Surprisingly, I haven't noticed as much marcelling as I thought I would at that height. I really have to look hard to see it.


----------



## hiloran

I bought 7 blade reel and bedknife from R&R Products for my 220E. What is the bolt in the reel? For balancing? Left from painting?


----------



## g-man

Maybe call R&R. The JD reels dont have that.


----------



## krusej23

williams6966 said:


> Anyone mowing at .75 or higher with an 11 blade reel? How do you like the cut? Is it clean after 1 pass?


I have a 220C with an 11 blade mowing cool season initially at 3/4" when I got it but then moved up to 1" and it's mowing much better than my rotary when I was mowing at 1.25". Like @BrainBailey said, I have some grass laying down but I think some of that is the grass is stressed out right now in July in Iowa. I mow once every 2 or 3 days. When I first received the mower and asked questions, people were saying the 11 blade will be horrible at 1/2" or higher and I would see wash boarding and it wouldn't cut worth a crap. That is definitely not true. If I'm trying to show off or make the lawn look really good, I would double cut it or go a little bit lower like 5/8". Once my reel wears out this year, I'm going to buy a 9 or 7 blade reel. Whichever I can get my hands on.


----------



## hiloran

g-man said:


> Maybe call R&R. The JD reels dont have that.


Thanks. Apparently it is for balancing


----------



## jsams22

AllisonN said:


> And it was the travel switch! Thankfully and thanks for all the help on this! Not completely gone but it's intermittently not breaking the circuit.


What is the "travel" switch? I dont see anything identified as that in the e-manual? I have a JD 220e


----------



## AllisonN

jsams22 said:


> AllisonN said:
> 
> 
> 
> And it was the travel switch! Thankfully and thanks for all the help on this! Not completely gone but it's intermittently not breaking the circuit.
> 
> 
> 
> What is the "travel" switch? I dont see anything identified as that in the e-manual? I have a JD 220e
Click to expand...

There are switches on each lever. One for the parking brake and one for the drive


----------



## BermudaMat

Hi folks,

Just became the owner of a used 220e.
Question- where can I find the manual? I went to the http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual website that was mentioned earlier but it's asking for Google drive permission, which I requested about a week ago (maybe it's not monitored?).

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Lyngaas

I have the option of purchasing a 220A, but the door to my shed is 82cm wide..
Apparently the mower is 95cm wide with transport axles and wheels.

How wide will the mower be if i cut the transport axles?


----------



## g-man

I dont have a 220A. On my 220E, I could likely take 7.5cm on each side if I cut them.

Can you make the door wider (only around the transport wheel area)?


----------



## Lyngaas

g-man said:


> I dont have a 220A. On my 220E, I could likely take 7.5cm on each side if I cut them.
> 
> Can you make the door wider (only around the transport wheel area)?


Thanks for the answer 

Sadly cant modify the door, the HOA wont allow any changes.

A 180 would be perfect but they are apparently really rare here in Norway.


----------



## williams6966

Has anyone ever had to replace the electrical motor on a 220e? Where'd you find one? What was the cost? I'm looking at getting one but that's the component that scares the hell out of me and having to buy one to replace


----------



## lbb091919

williams6966 said:


> Has anyone ever had to replace the electrical motor on a 220e? Where'd you find one? What was the cost? I'm looking at getting one but that's the component that scares the hell out of me and having to buy one to replace


This should have all the information you need

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=422501#p422501


----------



## bernstem

williams6966 said:


> Has anyone ever had to replace the electrical motor on a 220e? Where'd you find one? What was the cost? I'm looking at getting one but that's the component that scares the hell out of me and having to buy one to replace


$800.00 from John Deere for the electric motor, : 
https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/74880/level/2/snp/MTgzMTgwOkNIQVBURVJbMTA2MTojQlVTSU5FU1NfUkVHSU9OLDYwODE6I0NBVEFMT0csNzQ4ODA6RVFVSVBNRU5UXQ


----------



## kay7711226

Lyngaas said:


> I have the option of purchasing a 220A, but the door to my shed is 82cm wide..
> Apparently the mower is 95cm wide with transport axles and wheels.
> 
> How wide will the mower be if i cut the transport axles?


 It's about 73-75cm. The handle is much narrower so shouldn't be an issue getting it in.


----------



## Lyngaas

kay7711226 said:


> Lyngaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have the option of purchasing a 220A, but the door to my shed is 82cm wide..
> Apparently the mower is 95cm wide with transport axles and wheels.
> 
> How wide will the mower be if i cut the transport axles?
> 
> 
> 
> It's about 73-75cm. The handle is much narrower so shouldn't be an issue getting it in.
Click to expand...

Thanks! 

Is there anything to mind when cutting them off?


----------



## jsams22

Apologize in advance, posting in the 220e and this thread for more visibility.

Has anyone ever changed out a Bedknife Tower Adjuster? My right adjuster isnt "clicking" anymore and more freely spins without resistance. I would like it to click like the other tower so I could adjust them in unison. Does this maybe just need to be tightened up?


----------



## BrainBailey

I have a 180 standard mower but I recently just rebuilt my bed knife adjuster. I know it's not the same, but for mine the parts closest to the turf were heavily rusted over and did not move well. I tore them down, cleaned them up with a wire wheel, and chased the threads with a die. Works like a charm now and was not difficult at all. Only took me a couple hours on a Saturday morning.


----------



## kay7711226

Lyngaas said:


> kay7711226 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lyngaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have the option of purchasing a 220A, but the door to my shed is 82cm wide..
> Apparently the mower is 95cm wide with transport axles and wheels.
> 
> How wide will the mower be if i cut the transport axles?
> 
> 
> 
> It's about 73-75cm. The handle is much narrower so shouldn't be an issue getting it in.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Is there anything to mind when cutting them off?
Click to expand...

Your limbs? :? :? Not sure what you will be using to cut them off but yea, safety first.


----------



## Lyngaas

kay7711226 said:


> Lyngaas said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kay7711226 said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's about 73-75cm. The handle is much narrower so shouldn't be an issue getting it in.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Is there anything to mind when cutting them off?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Your limbs? :? :? Not sure what you will be using to cut them off but yea, safety first.
Click to expand...

Haha, of course safety first :lol:

This is the mower in question:
https://www.finn.no/bap/forsale/ad.html?finnkode=264971564

Anything particular that stands out in the pictures?


----------



## williams6966

Best cut at .50-.75 9 or 11 blade reel? If 9 Has anyone successfully put a 9 Blade reel in a 220sl? If so can you please tell me parts it took to make it fit? Thank you


----------



## williams6966

bernstem said:


> williams6966 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone ever had to replace the electrical motor on a 220e? Where'd you find one? What was the cost? I'm looking at getting one but that's the component that scares the hell out of me and having to buy one to replace
> 
> 
> 
> $800.00 from John Deere for the electric motor, :
> https://partscatalog.deere.com/jdrc/navigation/equipment/74880/level/2/snp/MTgzMTgwOkNIQVBURVJbMTA2MTojQlVTSU5FU1NfUkVHSU9OLDYwODE6I0NBVEFMT0csNzQ4ODA6RVFVSVBNRU5UXQ
Click to expand...

 all the way out on that! Thanks for helping narrow down my list


----------



## BrainBailey

williams6966 said:


> Best cut at .50-.75 9 or 11 blade reel? If 9 Has anyone successfully put a 9 Blade reel in a 220sl? If so can you please tell me parts it took to make it fit? Thank you


9 blade. 11 will do fine, but will be shaggy and need more passes. I moved my 11 down from .750 to .575 and it cuts so much cleaner. High blade counts are for very very short cutting like putting greens.


----------



## williams6966

BrainBailey said:


> williams6966 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Best cut at .50-.75 9 or 11 blade reel? If 9 Has anyone successfully put a 9 Blade reel in a 220sl? If so can you please tell me parts it took to make it fit? Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 9 blade. 11 will do fine, but will be shaggy and need more passes. I moved my 11 down from .750 to .575 and it cuts so much cleaner. High blade counts are for very very short cutting like putting greens.
Click to expand...

Thank you


----------



## ga_dawg

The other evening my 220e died in the middle of mowing the lawn. After the initial panic, then frustration, then swapping the alternator out, then finally deciding to read the technician manual I found that I had the exact symptoms of a bad bridge rectifier. Replacing it fixed it (thank goodness I bought one at auction for parts). My question is what could cause that? I was getting Blink Code 8-2 more frequently so I'm wondering if the bridge was going bad. Could I have done anything to cause it? Reel to bed knife adjustment is right, bearings good, nothing jammed in the reel, etc.


----------



## williams6966

Any tips on replacing the 2 matching belts on the 220sl? Can it be done without undoing the engine? Is it fairly straight forward?


----------



## walk1355

williams6966 said:


> Any tips on replacing the 2 matching belts on the 220sl? Can it be done without undoing the engine? Is it fairly straight forward?


Can it be done without undoing the engine? - No

Is it fairly straight forward? - Yes


----------



## williams6966

walk1355 said:


> williams6966 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any tips on replacing the 2 matching belts on the 220sl? Can it be done without undoing the engine? Is it fairly straight forward?
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done without undoing the engine? - No
> 
> Is it fairly straight forward? - Yes
> Is there somewhere the replacements steps are located? I didn't see them in the manual
Click to expand...


----------



## walk1355

williams6966 said:


> walk1355 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> williams6966 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any tips on replacing the 2 matching belts on the 220sl? Can it be done without undoing the engine? Is it fairly straight forward?
> 
> 
> 
> Can it be done without undoing the engine? - No
> 
> Is it fairly straight forward? - Yes
> Is there somewhere the replacements steps are located? I didn't see them in the manual
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

https://techinfo-omview.apps-prod-vpn.us.e06.c01.johndeerecloud.com/omview/omuc27589/09001faa81f9ed4b


----------



## BrainBailey

williams6966 said:


> Any tips on replacing the 2 matching belts on the 220sl? Can it be done without undoing the engine? Is it fairly straight forward?


FWIW... The belts are a standard size and can be purchased much cheaper than going JD direct. I got mine at tractor supply for a couple bucks each.


----------



## williams6966

BrainBailey said:


> williams6966 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any tips on replacing the 2 matching belts on the 220sl? Can it be done without undoing the engine? Is it fairly straight forward?
> 
> 
> 
> FWIW... The belts are a standard size and can be purchased much cheaper than going JD direct. I got mine at tractor supply for a couple bucks each.
Click to expand...

Thank you for that. I couldn't find it at all. Which belts did you end up going with from tractor supply?


----------



## williams6966

Can @Pete1313 
or someone please tell me what I'm missing here?I put the carb back on and now I get no change in idle when moving the throttle. What am I missing here?


----------



## hiloran

williams6966 said:


> Can @Pete1313
> or someone please tell me what I'm missing here?I put the carb back on and now I get no change in idle when moving the throttle. What am I missing here?


Does the flap move? Can only see the cable in the picture


----------



## BermudaMat

Hi folks, is anyone able to send me a PDF copy of the 220e Service Manual. I tried going to http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual and downloading it, but it asked me to request google drive access. It's been over 30 days and still no access.

Thanks! 
Mat


----------



## g-man

@BermudaMat I sent you a PM with a download link.


----------



## g-man

Different link. Let me know if this works.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PnNvsCe2efILR6eHj_n56v70AshZOaVK/view?usp=sharing


----------



## BermudaMat

g-man said:


> Different link. Let me know if this works.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PnNvsCe2efILR6eHj_n56v70AshZOaVK/view?usp=sharing


This worked! Thanks a bunch @g-man


----------



## potatochip

Hey all, been having some issues with my 220B recently and thought I would check in here to see if anyone might be able to help me diagnose what is going on. A few weeks ago when I was mowing the lever that engages the drum/reel started sticking. Recently it has gotten really bad. When I mow I have to pull back very hard to disengage the drum/reel. It can be so difficult sometimes that I can't get it the first try and I go flying into the flowerbeds. Not ideal. Any idea what is going on with it or has anyone had a similar issue?


----------



## jsams22

potatochip said:


> Hey all, been having some issues with my 220B recently and thought I would check in here to see if anyone might be able to help me diagnose what is going on. A few weeks ago when I was mowing the lever that engages the drum/reel started sticking. Recently it has gotten really bad. When I mow I have to pull back very hard to disengage the drum/reel. It can be so difficult sometimes that I can't get it the first try and I go flying into the flowerbeds. Not ideal. Any idea what is going on with it or has anyone had a similar issue?


Check the cable all the way from the top of handle down to the belts. Make sure it did not get crimped. I would check down to where the cable connects to the engine area to see if someone is wedged in there or causing it to stick.


----------



## BrainBailey

Also check the linkages underneath the main handle column. It sounds like maybe something down there is loose and getting bound up? There's a grease point to keep things sliding.


----------



## Earlsworld

I tried reading through this forum best I could. So if there is a previous answer I apologize. Either way, I'm trying to figure out what the correct amount of hy guard is to fill the gear case. The manual says .4l. However, I filled it up to where I could see it through the hole they tell you to fill it up through. Is there any risk of over filling? It just seems like .4 isn't enough to do the trick. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## bernstem

Earlsworld said:


> I tried reading through this forum best I could. So if there is a previous answer I apologize. Either way, I'm trying to figure out what the correct amount of hy guard is to fill the gear case. The manual says .4l. However, I filled it up to where I could see it through the hole they tell you to fill it up through. Is there any risk of over filling? It just seems like .4 isn't enough to do the trick. Thanks for the advice.


The gear case does not take much oil. The technical manual says 140ml. You do want the unit level which does require blocks as it does not sit level by default. From page 171:

Checking and Filling Gear Case
1. Support cutting unit so that machine is level, with rear
surface of gear case (A) vertical.
2. Remove drain plug (B).
3. Check level of lubricant. Oil should be at the bottom of
drain opening.
4. If oil is required, remove fill plug (C) and add specified
oil until the oil begins to flow from drain opening.
• Oil Capacity: 140 mL (4.8 oz.)
5. Reinstall fill and drain plugs with sealing washers and
tighten securely.
6. Remove block used to level unit.

If you need to drain the oil you will need to tilt it back on the handlebars.


----------



## jpos34

Got a new to me 220a. Is it normal to have to nearly run behind it? Is there some way to adjust this? Also when cranked it sounds like it's throttled up abnormally high from what I'm used to on anything previously. Is this normal or is there a way to adjust that as well?


----------



## SNOWBOB11

jpos34 said:


> Got a new to me 220a. Is it normal to have to nearly run behind it? Is there some way to adjust this? Also when cranked it sounds like it's throttled up abnormally high from what I'm used to on anything previously. Is this normal or is there a way to adjust that as well?


It sounds like your RPM is too high. Might need to adjust the governor.


----------



## TulsaFan

If its the governor, this video might help...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGwmU_r2Wao&t=37s


----------



## Earlsworld

bernstem said:


> Earlsworld said:
> 
> 
> 
> I tried reading through this forum best I could. So if there is a previous answer I apologize. Either way, I'm trying to figure out what the correct amount of hy guard is to fill the gear case. The manual says .4l. However, I filled it up to where I could see it through the hole they tell you to fill it up through. Is there any risk of over filling? It just seems like .4 isn't enough to do the trick. Thanks for the advice.
> 
> 
> 
> The gear case does not take much oil. The technical manual says 140ml. You do want the unit level which does require blocks as it does not sit level by default. From page 171:
> 
> Checking and Filling Gear Case
> 1. Support cutting unit so that machine is level, with rear
> surface of gear case (A) vertical.
> 2. Remove drain plug (B).
> 3. Check level of lubricant. Oil should be at the bottom of
> drain opening.
> 4. If oil is required, remove fill plug (C) and add specified
> oil until the oil begins to flow from drain opening.
> • Oil Capacity: 140 mL (4.8 oz.)
> 5. Reinstall fill and drain plugs with sealing washers and
> tighten securely.
> 6. Remove block used to level unit.
> 
> If you need to drain the oil you will need to tilt it back on the handlebars.
Click to expand...

I read that in the service manual as well. The part that confuses me is step 3. What does at the bottom of drain opening mean?


----------



## g-man

It has two screws. You open the top and bottom. Pour thru the top until the bottom one leaks a bit.

The oil is mainly just coating the chain if I remember correctly, so it doesnt need a lot (140mL).


----------



## TulsaFan

I have never bought a hybrid due to electronic concerns. However, I had an interesting ad popup on Turfnet.com. It's for https://ozarkfairways.com/motors

Anyone who has a JD 180E or 220E should save this website.



*OCM-JD1*
Mower motor, sold Rebuilt exchange for $350.00
This motor has the short-wire harness.
Fits Following Models: 180E, 220E, 2500E, 7500E, 8000E, 8500E


----------



## jsams22

Looks legit. You could probably take it to an alternator rebuild shop and they could probably get it fixed also.


----------



## Earlsworld

Is there a video of a bearing and seal replacement on a jd 220 sl? I've read the bearing and reel replacement thread but would love to see a video if there is one out there.


----------



## Rina5677

Hi there, I recently changed the fan belt on our JD 2653A turf mower. If you've done it before you know it's not straightforward. Alternator must come out along with fan, shroud and radiator. Then the hydraulic motor needed to be moved over so I disconnected anything that wasn't a flexible line. Long story short, when I put it all back together it runs fine but is accelerating all by itself! I did undo the pedal connection on the side of the hydraulic motor - so what did I mess up? Any help appreciated!!


----------



## Skibrett3211

I just purchased a 260b last week. Got her home and cleaned up. Runs great and reel bedknife look to be in good condition and cuts paper nicely. The only thing I can't seem to figure out is the light. Bought a bulb but didn't work. Upon investigating I found this wire unplugged from the lighting wiring harness. Any help as to where it plugs in?

Thanks!


----------



## BrainBailey

My 180B had been acting funny the last few weeks. As soon as I'd engage the drive, it'd go, then stop, then go... It'd usually sort itself out after 1-2 passes so I figured the belt was just getting worn/lose. Today it was markedly worse and the reel stopped engaging on me. Opened up the side and found half of a sprocket on the upper shaft for the reel drive. Thought it was a pretty weird failure mode, so curious if anyone else has seen or experienced this.


----------



## DFWdude

My JD260sl is getting awfully noisy lately when I engage the reel. Sounds like metal on metal contact, almost like a ringing.
I backlapped it not too long ago and the reel spins by hand.
Any ideas / thoughts?


----------



## DFWdude

As a follow up I added grease to the reel bearing zirks and backlapped it again. It got a bit better...but not much. 
Is there a point at which the reel or bedknife become so worn that they get noisy when engaged?


----------



## Texas Lawn

I have a 220A mower that just threw a rod. Has anyone successfully swapped engines on this mower? I haven't been able to locate a replacement model Honda GX120K1 LJD2. It looks like Honda no longer makes the original engine. I am concerned about swapping for a different GX 120 due to the unique gear reduction ratio and crank shaft size. Any advice on how to re-power?


----------



## Pete1313

DFWdude said:


> My JD260sl is getting awfully noisy lately when I engage the reel. Sounds like metal on metal contact, almost like a ringing.
> I backlapped it not too long ago and the reel spins by hand.
> Any ideas / thoughts?


Does the noise go away when you back the bedknife away from the reel and then have it engaged? If so, with the bedknife away from the reel, check the reel and bearings for play (up/down and side/side). Could also be worn bedbar springs. 

If the noise is still there after you back the bedknife away and engage the reel, that's a different story. Let us know if you find the cause.


----------



## williams6966

I have a 220sl with allot of vibration. Seems like it’s coming from the belt/ idler pulley. How much play should there be on the pulley? Is this out of adjustment or needs replacement? Please help. Video below


----------



## williams6966

Pulley vibration







youtube.com


----------



## g-man

williams6966 said:


> Pulley vibration
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> youtube.com


That should not have lateral movement at all. Most likely it has a damage bearing.


----------



## DFWdude

With the


Pete1313 said:


> Does the noise go away when you back the bedknife away from the reel and then have it engaged? If so, with the bedknife away from the reel, check the reel and bearings for play (up/down and side/side). Could also be worn bedbar springs.
> 
> If the noise is still there after you back the bedknife away and engage the reel, that's a different story. Let us know if you find the cause.


with the bedknife backed away, there is no noise upon reel engagement. Also, there is no play in the reel up/down or side/side.
How can I check the bedbar springs?

also if its relevant, when i backed the bedknife away the right side (from mowing position) adjustment bar felt seized up. The adjustment knob broke loose from the shaft so I had to turn the shaft w channel locks.


----------



## williams6966

g-man said:


> That should not have lateral movement at all. Most likely it has a damage bearing.


Thank you. I just took it apart and it’s trash. I just hope I can figure out how to reset the motor properly since I had to unbolt it to get to the pulley😩


----------



## nATLzoysiaguy

I just mounted the OEM light kit to my 220B, but I cannot figure out where the wires connect. Would someone mind posting a picture, or describing the location? 

Im certain it’s right in front of my face, too 🤷‍♂️


----------



## DFWdude

This is a 260sl


----------



## nATLzoysiaguy

DFWdude said:


> This is a 260sl


Thank you!


----------



## DFWdude

Better pic


----------



## DFWdude

How do I know when either my reel or bedknife have reached the end of their service life? Jd260sl


----------



## BrainBailey

DFWdude said:


> How do I know when either my reel or bedknife have reached the end of their service life? Jd260sl


Won't cut paper, or interference between reel and bed knife requires resistance to cut paper. You'll notice that the turf looks shaggy with a lot of stragglers. The shop I take mine to usually always just puts on a new bed knife because they're not too expensive. They'll let you know if the reel needs to be replaced based on whether they can grind it.


----------



## DFWdude

@BrainBailey Meaning that in order for it to cut paper, even with the reel disengaged it wont spin freely by hand? If so, I’m there. Any way to tell if its the bedknife or reel w/o taking it to a shop? @MasterMech?


----------



## nATLzoysiaguy

DFWdude said:


> Better pic


Does anyone know if the wiring location is different on a 220B? I purchased the part pre-owned, and the wires aren't long enough to reach where the 260 connects. They don't appear shortened. I feel like I'm missing a connection point somewhere, or it's hidden behind something. Thanks!


----------



## BrainBailey

DFWdude said:


> @BrainBailey Meaning that in order for it to cut paper, even with the reel disengaged it wont spin freely by hand? If so, I’m there. Any way to tell if its the bedknife or reel w/o taking it to a shop? @MasterMech?
> 
> View attachment 1169


Yes, or it takes a lot of effort to spin the reel to actually cut. The adjustment knobs on my unit are a bit worn out and the threads have some slop. For me, I have to make very very minor adjustments to get the reel to spin and still cut, versus cutting with a lot of resistance. Maybe play with it some more, and very very carefully adjust to find the right balance - for me it's tiny amounts of rotation like 2-5 degrees on the knobs. If you can't get there this way, and it only cuts with a lot of resistance, it's time for a grind and probably a new bed knife. You could try back lapping as well, but this might only be a minor improvement. Also, make sure your unit is nice and clean. A dirty reel won't cut well either. Sometimes a good cleaning is all that's needed.


----------



## DFWdude

@BrainBailey If I set the clearances up such that it will cut paper, and then back off the adjustment knobs just a few degrees it still gets noisy. The only way the noise goes away is if the clearance ia opened way up. 
Sounds like an end of season grind and a new bedknife will be in order. I’ll let the grind shop tell me if I need a new reel.
Thanks!


----------



## BrainBailey

DFWdude said:


> @BrainBailey If I set the clearances up such that it will cut paper, and then back off the adjustment knobs just a few degrees it still gets noisy. The only way the noise goes away is if the clearance ia opened way up.
> Sounds like an end of season grind and a new bedknife will be in order. I’ll let the grind shop tell me if I need a new reel.
> Thanks!


Mine sings every time I adjust it. A tiny bit of interference isn't an issue and it will sort itself out. Especially on older mowers which aren't as tight anymore, I believe this is more expected.

My grind was fresh starting this season and my reel is still doing well based on how I use and adjust it. I've backlapped once and it's still going well. Not sure if I'll need another grind for next year, but not looking like it.


----------



## DFWdude

For anyone following along, I replaced my bedknife and gave her a mild backlapping. Aaaaaaand the noise disappeared. Victory!


----------



## BermudaMat

For anyone that has purchased a reel from R&R and also replaced their bedknife, did you need a grind on your new R&R reel or does it come sharp and ready to cut.


----------



## williams6966

Can anyone that has replaced a reel tell me if any of the nuts are reverse thread? thanks


----------



## swebbrrt

BermudaMat said:


> For anyone that has purchased a reel from R&R and also replaced their bedknife, did you need a grind on your new R&R reel or does it come sharp and ready to cut.


"All R&R Reels are cylindrically ground on bearing surfaces and then relief ground." Direct quote from their description same for their bed knifes. I back-lapped with 120 grit to mate the 2 surfaces and finished it with 180 grit


----------



## nATLzoysiaguy

Skibrett3211 said:


> I just purchased a 260b last week. Got her home and cleaned up. Runs great and reel bedknife look to be in good condition and cuts paper nicely. The only thing I can't seem to figure out is the light. Bought a bulb but didn't work. Upon investigating I found this wire unplugged from the lighting wiring harness. Any help as to where it plugs in?
> 
> Thanks!


@Skibrett3211 did you find an answer to your question? I have the same problem with my 220B. Thanks.


----------



## BermudaMat

swebbrrt said:


> "All R&R Reels are cylindrically ground on bearing surfaces and then relief ground." Direct quote from their description same for their bed knifes. I back-lapped with 120 grit to mate the 2 surfaces and finished it with 180 grit
> View attachment 1927


Thanks for the info @swebbrrt. I have 120 grit, i'll go ahead and buy 180 to finish it off.

Another question pertaining to carbs. I plan on replacing the carb on my unit and was thinking of going OEM. I called the local dealer and they informed me that because my serial number is +40001 it would be part MIA12398 ($295.85) as opposed to part MIA11601 which i've seen some folks on here purchase (~$35). 

Would there be an issue if I purchased part MIA11601 for my 220e?


----------



## williams6966

Can someone please help. Recently took apart the groomer gearbox to clean and replace gasket. Is it normal for the groomer to move when moving the reel by hand? Did I put something back together incorrectly? Thanks for the help October 26, 2022








October 26, 2022







youtube.com


----------



## BrainBailey

williams6966 said:


> Can someone please help. Recently took apart the groomer gearbox to clean and replace gasket. Is it normal for the groomer to move when moving the reel by hand? Did I put something back together incorrectly? Thanks for the help October 26, 2022
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> October 26, 2022
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> youtube.com


Yes as long as the groomer is engaged. Put it back together and test with the engagement lever.

The furthest gear to the right in your video (on the groomer shaft) will slide on that shaft to engage/disengage.


----------



## jimbeckel

JD 180 SL advice needed, I bought a salvage 180 SL last year at Weeks and after using it found the engine needed an overhaul. I rebuilt the Honda gx120 with new valves, rings and seals. The motor now has great compression at over 110psi, starts on the first pull and sounds good. The HOC is set at .50 inches and the reel is recently ground. I am cutting dormant Bermuda which is probably at 1.0 inch. The mower runs, moves and spins the reel just fine until I start cutting and will shut down after I start cutting around .5 of an inch of material. Is this a normal condition for this mower or is the engine not able to handle cutting this much material at once. Any advice is appreciated.


----------



## jimbeckel

I failed to mention that the mower has new belts which are adjusted so tension should be good.


----------



## nATLzoysiaguy

jimbeckel said:


> JD 180 SL advice needed, I bought a salvage 180 SL last year at Weeks and after using it found the engine needed an overhaul. I rebuilt the Honda gx120 with new valves, rings and seals. The motor now has great compression at over 110psi, starts on the first pull and sounds good. The HOC is set at .50 inches and the reel is recently ground. I am cutting dormant Bermuda which is probably at 1.0 inch. The mower runs, moves and spins the reel just fine until I start cutting and will shut down after I start cutting around .5 of an inch of material. Is this a normal condition for this mower or is the engine not able to handle cutting this much material at once. Any advice is appreciated.


Taking off .5" at once is too much in my experience. I would raise the HOC to .75", mow, bag with a rotary, and then drop it to .5". If it still wants to shut down with sufficient throttle, the drive chains may need adjusting. The great thing about mowing dormant Bermuda is you can take it down in stages over the winter instead of rushing to get it done at green up. Personally, I would wait to cut the grass until end of February, but that's just me.

Sounds like you've done a lot of great work on the mower! Post some pics when you have a chance.


----------



## jimbeckel

Thanks for the reply, I kind of figured I was taking off too much. In the back of my mind I was concerned about the engine not putting out enough power. I’ll raise the HOC and see how it does at .75. I had a gm1000 also set at .5 HOC that would bog down cutting grass that had grown to .75 in the summer.


----------



## bsegal

Anyone know where I can find new decals for a 220A? I picked one up thats in good condition, but the little kid in me wants it to be pristine. Having trouble finding a "220A" sticker for around the ignition switch, Deere logo sticker for the front plastics on the handlebar, and the John Deere lettering for above the reel.


----------



## bernstem

bsegal said:


> Anyone know where I can find new decals for a 220A? I picked one up thats in good condition, but the little kid in me wants it to be pristine. Having trouble finding a "220A" sticker for around the ignition switch, Deere logo sticker for the front plastics on the handlebar, and the John Deere lettering for above the reel.


Some look like they are out of production and you are probably out of luck. I would check with your local dealer. If you don't have one you can try: John Deere Optional Equipment And Decals Labels 

Parts list can be found here: John Deere Parts Catalog and you can google the part numbers.


----------



## uts

Hey guys,

I have my eye on 2001 2653A at a local golf course. They are updating their fleet and don't use this mower at all almost. Machine has about 2000ish hours, reels replaced last year but wasnt mowed with much. I don't see any leaks and the engine doesn't smoke and seems to run strong. The tires seem to be in deceng shape.Can anyone guide me if this is a good buy and what is it worth?

Both the superintendent and equipment manager have been super nice in explaining everything to me so I can bother them more if need be.














































PS. I realize this is the greens mower topic (and this is a utility triplex) so if it's not appropriate please delete and I can make a separate thread.


----------



## Jsnow385

This is the current set up on my mower, i am curious what it would take to change this to the greens tender? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## g-man

What is a greens tender?


----------



## ellsbebc

g-man said:


> What is a greens tender?


A groomer. John Deere officially calls it a greens tender conditioner (GTC).


----------



## g-man

Oh ok. Since you have the gears for it, then it is a very simple swap. You need to buy the rod with the knives.


----------



## Jsnow385

g-man said:


> Oh ok. Since you have the gears for it, then it is a very simple swap. You need to buy the rod with the knives.


Thanks for the help everyone thats what I was hoping for.


----------



## ellsbebc

Anyone know if there is a chart that shows which front rollers are compatible with each respective mower?

I am specifically interested if BM18481 will fit my 220SL: John Deere BM18481 Roller 8500 8700A 2500E 2243 3235 Fariway Greensmower | eBay


----------

