# Soil Test results - too much to do immediately?



## mountainmoron (Aug 27, 2019)

New to all of this and got my results back today. Looks like I need a massive amount of lime and fertilizer (more than the yearly recommended amount). Is it recommended to do everything at once?

Thanks to the help in my one earlier post, I'm also trying to help Bermuda take over the weeds and Bahia So I'm working on pre-emergent, weed killer, etc. for that. Not to mention possibly needing to add Humic (.36% does not seem good) and anything else I might learn on here.

Am I trying to do too much? Do you have any recommendations on how to go about everything I need to do?


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

You have a very low CEC soil. I'd ask that you read my post in this thread: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=13615
The only major nutrients that that test reports are P and K.
You'll need to add K in both yards and although not likely deficient, P is a bit under optimal in the back.
A 15-0-15 would work for you. In the front, you could use 10-10-10 for one feeding, then go with the 15-0-15 for the other feedings.
Fertilize during the months the turf is actively growing. Once your Bermuda goes dormant or around Thanksgiving, you can lime with little adverse reaction with fertilizer. (liming and fert at the same time won't kill the grass, it just creates greater incidence of P tie up and N loss to volitization.)
As you need to lime anyway, I'd suggest you get a more complete soil test showing Ca, Mg and S levels as that will help you determine which products (dolomitic or calcitic lime or SOP vs MOP) would be best to meet your nutrient needs/shortages.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Btw, you should have made your tag "mountainmow-on"


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## mountainmoron (Aug 27, 2019)

Ridgerunner said:


> You have a very low CEC soil. I'd ask that you read my post in this thread: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=13615
> The only major nutrients that that test reports are P and K.
> You'll need to add K in both yards and although not likely deficient, P is a bit under optimal in the back.
> A 15-0-15 would work for you. In the front, you could use 10-10-10 for one feeding, then go with the 15-0-15 for the other feedings.
> ...


So if I understand your other post correctly - the low CEC soil cannot hold all of the nutrients needed and every time I apply N, it's using more P and K so those need to be replenished regularly as well. This is best done by spoon feeding a much lower rate than listed on the report (say about 2 lb/1000sqft.) every 2-3 weeks instead of the large amount they list. I may be able to help this a little bit with adding Humic.

What I don't clearly understand is the suggestion of 10-10-10 and 15-0-15 instead of the rates they recommend of 6-6-18 and 8-0-24. Wouldn't this add a surplus of things missing and being used? Or is it that the extra amount doesn't matter because the soil can't use it before it is lost?

This is the free report from the local extension - suggestion for a better report? And mountainmow-on would have been great. It was meant to reference that I grew up in a completely different climate and have no idea what I'm doing with warm season turf, flat yards, and sandy soil. I have so much to learn still.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Their product recs are fine. If you can find them. Soil adjustments are usually based on a two step process, build, then maintain. There are more than one way to skin a cat. I suggested 10-10-10 and 15-0-15 because both are apparently readily accessible in most warm season areas. (I use the 15-0-15 and it's hard for me to source in Ohio and anytime I google it, it only shows up as available in stores in the South.) Applying the 10-10-10 ONCE, should not result in an excess build up of P. P moves slowly through the soil and adequate amounts should remain in the soil for the year from that one application as your soil pH gets into the 6-7 range. Regarding the K, Bermuda uses N and K close to a 1:1 ratio. Both the T-10 and the 15-0-15 provide that ratio. Re-testing next year will guide you in making adjustments/refinements to your fertilizer scheme.


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