# $50 McLane 20" Reel Mower Project



## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

So I picked this up on a whim. It runs rough, it has some rust, so it will be a project. It cut grass, but not paper.

After getting it home and cleaned up. It looks like it will need a few things repaired or replaced. Not looking to restore it to like new, just to work decently.

Patch or replace rusted out grass deflector.
New front casters or roller
New rear wheels.

Any good place to source parts besides McLane?


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## quadmasta (Apr 3, 2019)

Step 1, spend twice what you paid for the mower and get a roller


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

Had some more time to day to tinker with it. The clutch and deadman lever does not work properly. Upon releasing the lever, the spring detaches from the lever and allows the pulley to drop forward keeping the reel and the wheels engaged or knocking the belt off to the left side. I suspect the way the spring is attached is incorrect, and the belt is probably stretched.

Can someone post a close up pic of what the clutch assembly is suppose to look like?

Handle pulled up


Handle Released


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

Here is a quick update on my McLane build.

The B&S was surging and was only running reliably with a bit of choke. 
Video of surging: https://youtube.com/shorts/c_XggV_MuKI?feature=share

While I will eventually upgrade to the HF Predator, I wanted to run this mower this season and be sure the rest of it works well.

I ran through the old gas, refilled with some new gas with some FI/Carb cleaning additive and sprayed some carb cleaner down the throttle body.

The surging continued, and I noticed the linkage looked awfully loose and the springs were not providing tension. I bent back the tab for the throttle spring and adjusted the idle screw. Secondly the spring attached to the governor was barely attached at the end of the spring leg. Looking at other videos of the engine, it appears it should have been attached near the middle of the leg. Making that change provided more tension and stopped much of the surging.







I think I figured out the throttle lever linkage too.

Well it doesn't run perfect, but much better and now after warming up, it runs well without any choke.






Aside from the engine, the grass deflector was rusted through and the bedknife was worn down to where the reel adjustment bolts were maxed out in the down position.





I was lucky enough to find a seller on eBay listing both a newer bedknife and grass deflector in a package for $100 shipped.

I now have $150 into this project and it runs well and cuts paper.

I am planning another $100 for a backlapping kit, new reel chain, clutch spring and reel chain cover.

Next up is figuring out what to do with all the tires. The replacements are so expensive.

For the drive tires and rear tires, I am contemplating a diy retread. Cutting up some bicycle tires or rubber mats and glueing them to the wheels. I am thinking I can replace the all the tread for less than $40.

I have an idea for a diy grooved front roller too.


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## pschattle15 (Apr 3, 2020)

Can you post the bedknife/deflector from ebay? I am curious to look into that if they have others available.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

pschattle15 said:


> Can you post the bedknife/deflector from ebay? I am curious to look into that if they have others available.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mclane-20-...101-2-for-mower-made-after-1990-/265066446328

Hope they have more for you.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

ShadowGuy said:


> For the drive tires and rear tires, I am contemplating a diy retread. Cutting up some bicycle tires or rubber mats and glueing them to the wheels. I am thinking I can replace the all the tread for less than $40.


For the rear tires you can see they are literally falling apart. Before I caved and bough new tires, I though I would try something cheap to see if it works. I picked up this rubberized anti-skip tape. I cleaned up the wheels and attached this tape.

We will see how long it lasts. For less than $15, I can retread these wheels a half dozen times. I am not sure what kind of mileage I will get before they either wear through or peel off. We will see.

For the drive tires, I will need to probably go with a bike tire tread, I need more thickness to keep the chain out of the dirt.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...ps://i.postimg.cc/PxYFk4gK/IMG-3764.jpg[/IMG]


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

New update on drive wheels.




BTW - The rubber tape tread on the rear wheels is holding up great after the first mow.


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## Adrian82 (Jun 5, 2017)

Looks like I am making a trip to Harbor Freight for those tires. Nice work!


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## BobRoss (Jul 3, 2019)

I have no intention on getting a reel mower anytime soon, but I am thoroughly impressed with the harbor freight tire find. Nice find.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

Adrian82 said:


> Looks like I am making a trip to Harbor Freight for those tires. Nice work!


@Adrian82 How did it work out for you?

I am getting use to using the mower know which actual tread on the drive wheel. I developed a bad habit before of holding in the clutch to spin the wheels and then dropping the drive wheels down. Was not a big deal when the tires were bald, but now it tears up my turf.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

So here is my idea for a cheap upgrade to the front wheels. It should be better than the current setup, not quite as good as a full front roller, but I am hoping a low cost mid level solution.

The way I think about this is a roller is like an infinite number of wheels on line between the two points on the frame. Where each wheel has the ability to keep the bedknife higher than the highest point across the array of wheels. More wheels, means higher ability to catch the highpoint and prevent scalping. The stock setup is two wheels which is poor at this, but the high end version is the roller which is infinite number of wheels. I am thinking a set of wheels could be a mid-level solutions.

The second part is a grooved roller vs a smooth roller, where a smooth roller has more surface area, and will float across teh top of the canopy of grass, and a grooved roller has less surface area, and is able to drop into the canopy and stay closer to the dirt.

Here is what I have found: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08RS5Q5J7?pf_rd_r=2NJXECS2JGYG2NTCK270&pf_rd_p=5ae2c7f8-e0c6-4f35-9071-dc3240e894a8&pd_rd_r=37ad9046-7792-46b4-910c-9b2544a9cbc4&pd_rd_w=XQmX3&pd_rd_wg=2zc9w&ref_=pd_gw_unk










I am considering keeping the mounts, and fabricating a spacer off the exiting crossbar to keep these wheels the same height as the stock wheels, without having to cut up the stock equipment. Any thoughts?

The mount to the cross bar needs some more thought. Maybe let it pivot on the cross bar and use pins to lock it to the existing caster vertical mounts. If I slot the new mount, it could be adjustable in height as well.


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## SOLARSUPLEX (Aug 4, 2020)

A Mclane popped up near me for sale for $50 as well. Your thread is tempting me to pick it up just to play around with this summer.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

SOLARSUPLEX said:


> A Mclane popped up near me for sale for $50 as well. Your thread is tempting me to pick it up just to play around with this summer.


Looking back at it now. I had some luck.

The mower is a '96. Not as old as many I have seem listed. I didn't know when I bought it.
I scored an awesome deal on a newer bedknife and grass shield on ebay. If I had known better, I would not have bought the mower with that bad of a bedknife.

After tinkering with it over the past few weeks, I know so much more about what to look for when buying used. I didn't realize how expensive the parts can be at all. Oops. In the theme of this project, I hope I can figure out some reasonably prices alternatives. Part of me is considering flipping it, and buying a newer one in better condition now I have some experience.


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## gooodawgs (Jul 10, 2020)

@ShadowGuy I did the same thing for a front roller. I got a piece of threaded pipe, some 1/2" plastic spacers, and a pack of these 4" caster wheels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083V6HZZN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_Z4MC9QQJ6D1P2M162SED?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Removed them from the caster and threaded the pipe on. I believe I used 7 wheels in the middle and left the original 2 wheels on the sides. In the highest setting the reel barely nicked the wheels, but every other setting it works perfectly. I got the McLane for $20 (its 35 years old) and use it primarily as my scalp reel. I like this roller and saved a lot of $$$ :thumbup:


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## Adrian82 (Jun 5, 2017)

ShadowGuy said:


> Adrian82 said:
> 
> 
> > Looks like I am making a trip to Harbor Freight for those tires. Nice work!
> ...


I haven't picked the tires up yet because I sent the mower to a shop for a grind.


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## Adrian82 (Jun 5, 2017)

Adrian82 said:


> ShadowGuy said:
> 
> 
> > Adrian82 said:
> ...


@ShadowGuy 
The HF wheels are perfect. Initially, I thought there were not going to work out since the new rubber was rigid. I walked away for a few hours to do some work. Once I got back to them the wheels slid over the canister without a problem. Naturally, I bought 4 wheels instead of 5.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

Excellent. I am glad this worked for you too. So much better than spending $100 on tires.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

As much as I wanted to replicate the grooved roller idea with casters, I just wasn't up for the fabrication. I wanted to keep this simple and low cost. I decided to go with a set of OEM sized poly casters.

This diy roller inspired me to keep it simple.






A 24" 3/8 threaded rod and assorted washers and nuts. ~$10
11 - 4" x 1.25" Poly Casters with 3/8" axel bore. ~$60. (bought 3 sets for 12 wheels, only used 11).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DTHDWM3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

First impressions, is rolls much smoother than the worn out OEM casters, and stripes better than before. It is probably not as good as a real reel roller, but for all less than $70 it does just fine, and ton better than the old wheels.

It rained this morning after my mow, and the stripes didn't stick around. I will post another when I mow again.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

gooodawgs said:


> @ShadowGuy I did the same thing for a front roller. I got a piece of threaded pipe, some 1/2" plastic spacers, and a pack of these 4" caster wheels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083V6HZZN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_Z4MC9QQJ6D1P2M162SED?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Removed them from the caster and threaded the pipe on. I believe I used 7 wheels in the middle and left the original 2 wheels on the sides. In the highest setting the reel barely nicked the wheels, but every other setting it works perfectly. I got the McLane for $20 (its 35 years old) and use it primarily as my scalp reel. I like this roller and saved a lot of $$$ :thumbup:


@gooodawgs Thanks for the idea. I ended up doing something similar.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

pschattle15 said:


> Can you post the bedknife/deflector from ebay? I am curious to look into that if they have others available.


@pschattle15 Just noticed they posted another set (I have no affiliation with the seller).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265148438262?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=265148438262&targetid=1263433204294&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031542&poi=&campaignid=11755693593&mkgroupid=122299019677&rlsatarget=pla-1263433204294&abcId=9300462&merchantid=119252810&gclid=CjwKCAjwtJ2FBhAuEiwAIKu19sjz1tRCVmG_3tg3XBsivoSOuzpBefaCxHzCvR4tYZXsp6lbbVn4jxoCnPcQAvD_BwE


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

I have been mowing about every other day since early April and it has been running flawless.

The time before last that I mowed, the mower ran out of gas mid-mow. I filler her back up and finished the job. The last time I mowed, it was really starting to struggle under load, and by the time I was finishing up the yard ~20min later, it would not stay running. Got it running again, but only under choke.

It seems to me, my carb got clogged. I am guessing when it ran dry, it might have sucked up debris floating in the bottom of the tank.

Last time, I used fuel additives to clean up the carb, but it seems worse this time. I am going to attempt to rebuild the carb, and clean out the tank. I ordered this kit on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038U3HLI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Any tips? I am going to follow this guide:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNSL9WKbqCA&t=625s


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## bp2878 (Feb 13, 2019)

Nice work! Love the simple money saving solutions.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

bp2878 said:


> Nice work! Love the simple money saving solutions.


Thank you!


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

After the tear down, I think I found my problem.

The diaphragm on the fuel pump is deformed and the flap has a hole through the center.



Secondary issue, the plastic pick up tube had a crack where it connects to the brass fuel line and the very tip broke off. Given I need to get this mower back in service, I used some shrink tubing to splint and seal the connection. I am not sure how the tubing will last submerged in the gas, but it will get me out mowing in the short term.





New parts are coming today. Hoping to get back out there tomorrow. Grass is pushing 1".


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

Got her all back together, and it was having the same problem. I could tell that the fuel bowl in the tank was filing with gas, so I knew the pump was working, but I could only get her to run with spraying carb cleaner in the intake.

After doing some thinking and research, I realized this carb does not have a removable main jet, so I might not have done a good job cleaning and that could be where it was failing to pick up the fuel from the bowl. I took it back apart and was more aggressive in my cleaning of the main jet area.

Got it back together and now she runs better than ever.

Also, the shrink wrap splint did not work. It expanded in the tank, and the pickup fell off. I actually used a small zip tie to keep it together. Working for now, but I will be sure to pick one up, because that is bound to fail eventually.

While I had it apart, I repainted the gas tank and flywheel shroud to stop the rust that started. Then I progressed to scuff, smudge and destroy the fresh paint with carb cleaner as I was putting it back together. Looks fine for a mower, but now my skills are better at taking this apart and putting it back together, I will probably paint it again another time.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

Picked up this 10 blade McLane for $40. Better deal than my last one. Engine dates from '87. It came with a grass catcher, which was the only reason I bought it. I needed a grass catcher. It didn't run, and I planned to just keep it for parts.

The carb rebuild kit I got from B&S comes with extra parts to cover all the different carbs they made. So I happened to have the rebuild pieces. So given my new my newly acquired skill, I tore down the carb, cleaned it and the gas tank and put it back together. It looks like someone recently replaced the pump diaphragm and the spark plug, With it all cleaned and a new jet. It started right up and runs great.

Now I have changed my mind. I think I will get this one running too as a fully functional back up. I'm interested if the 10 blade will make a difference.

Just like my other one, it's going to need a new bed knife and grass deflector, but overall it looks to be in good shape otherwise.


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## quadmasta (Apr 3, 2019)

$40 mower with a new bed knife turns into a $500 mower pretty quick


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

quadmasta said:


> $40 mower with a new bed knife turns into a $500 mower pretty quick


Ha! There worse things to spend money on. I can wait for a deal.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

quadmasta said:


> $40 mower with a new bed knife turns into a $500 mower pretty quick


Just scored a deal on a refurbished bedknife, grass shield and grass catcher for $60 delivered to my door, by a great local source that parts out lawnmowers. He is saying at least ~70% life on the bedknife.

So I will be $100 deep into this second one. Tempted to list is for sale as a $500 mower. 

If anyone needs wants refurbished Mclane parts . PM me. I will be happy to send you his info.


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## kc8qpu092200 (Feb 29, 2020)

Great tip on the rear drive wheels. Did that exact replacement on mine today. Thanks. It worked great.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

kc8qpu092200 said:


> Great tip on the rear drive wheels. Did that exact replacement on mine today. Thanks. It worked great.


I am glad it worked for you!


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

The replacement of the bedknife was not without issue. The lower non-chain side bedknife bolt was stripped, and the bushing was rusted solidly to the sideplate. I had to cutoff the bolt head with a grinder and grind off the bushing. Cost me a little bit of time and money, but now its repaired.

* $40 Mclane
* $60 bedknife and grass deflector (refurb)
* $10 Carb cleaning and rebuild kit
* $8 bedknife taper bolt replacement
* Lots of degreaser and cleaning.

Before and after:


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## Bobby_D (Apr 11, 2021)

Looks good! I'm doing the same thing as you but my two cal trimmers! These are really durable and simple machines to work on. Just some elbow grease and anyone can have a good mower for cheap!


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

On my 10 blade, the pull start clutch broke, so that was enough of a reason for me to go pick up a Predator 212. Given the regulations in CA, we will be limited to what we can buy in terms of gas power in the near future. So I thought it would be good to have a new gas motor on hand to power either of my machines, before I am not able to buy it anymore.

Since my 7 blade is working fine, i think the plan is to overhaul the 10 blade machine. It needs it's reel sharpened, I am debating on whether or not to take it in to get a grind before I do the engine swap. I would hate to do all that work to find out that there is an unforeseen issue with the reel.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

ShadowGuy said:


> ShadowGuy said:
> 
> 
> > For the drive tires and rear tires, I am contemplating a diy retread. Cutting up some bicycle tires or rubber mats and glueing them to the wheels. I am thinking I can replace the all the tread for less than $40.
> ...


Update on the anti-skid tape retreads. They lasted through November, before starting to tear and peel off the wheels. I was mowing ~1500sqft 2-times a week. My wheels are bare now, so I have been using the 10blade Mclane and the Rotary. I probably will eventually get real tires for it, but since I have plenty of tape, I will retread again for this upcoming season.


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## GreenLand (May 23, 2019)

Great thread man! Shows you have some great imagination skills. Do you think your local source has any john deere reel mower parts? Thanks.



ShadowGuy said:


> ShadowGuy said:
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> > ShadowGuy said:
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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

GreenLand said:


> Great thread man! Shows you have some great imagination skills. Do you think your local source has any john deere reel mower parts? Thanks.


Thanks! No JD parts just Mclane.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

Update on the $40 Mclane rebuild that was never suppose to happen.

Dropped the machine off at Goldenwest Lawnmowers in Stanton CA, and they inspected the reel and put a fresh grind on the reel. The good type with the proper machine and the special faceted edge for $99.

Got it home and started tearing it apart. Its on pause now, until I can get a gear puller to remove the drive gears. I realize I am probably dropping more money into this than buying a much nicer machine, but I am having fun, and what is that worth.

I was trying to figure out how I could get a full rear roller, and I think I have a solution. From my initial measurements, I believe I can replace the rear drive wheels with these from harbor freight, and add 3 additional in the center between the axle bearings. I will know more, once I get the gears off the axel and the wheels off the axle.

https://www.harborfreight.com/8-inch-solid-rubber-tire-42427.html

I am trying to decide if I will DIY paint or send it out to be sandblasted and powder coated, depending on cost and my time. Also trying to figure out what color to go with. Ryobi Green and black, red and yellow, orange and ....?????


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

I have the rear axel mostly stripped. I was able to use a 8" pulley puller from HF to get the bearing and gear off the one side. This side won't budge, and the allen hex set screw is stripped.

I am trying to decide if I should cut off the bearing, and drill out the set screw, or just leave it alone and mask it off when I prep and paint.


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## girevik (Jan 8, 2021)

Get a 1/4" shank torx bit, hammer it in there and see if you can get it to turn. That's worked for me several times before. Might also put it through a heat and quench cycle or two first.


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## ShadowGuy (Nov 20, 2020)

girevik said:


> Get a 1/4" shank torx bit, hammer it in there and see if you can get it to turn. That's worked for me several times before. Might also put it through a heat and quench cycle or two first.


Thanks for the tip. I don't have a torch (although I need to pick one up). I did have a freezer and a lighter within arms reach. I let the axel sit in the freezer overnight, then got it back in my vice with an used a lighter to heat up the bearing. It pulled right off with the pullers.

I don't think I am going to attempt to remove the set screw and the smaller gear. Since its not overly worn, I am going to prep it and paint it as a single piece.


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## trying2learn (Oct 27, 2018)

Didn't see any mention of paint in this thread - where can I get yellow and red touch-up paint? Need to repair rust spots on the used 20" 7-blade I just bought. Also, where can I find a manual for it?

Are the drive tires the 2 outer tires, or the 5 in the middle? The 2 outer tires are bald on mine, and might get the Harbor Freight 6" tires mentioned here to replace those.


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