# Seeding before winter



## mccormick_3 (Sep 24, 2018)

I have a customer that wants me to put down seed yet this year. I am located in Iowa and it has been about 25 degrees on average. Never seeded this late because I didn't think you were suppose to, but has anyone ever done this or know how I should go about it?


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## Smokindog (Jun 20, 2018)

In the late 80's I did a KBG lawn in Cincinnati like this. I had prepped the ground with about 1/2 of topsoil that I worked in. Just before panting I dragged it lightly, spread the seed, lightly raked it in, and then covered with straw for the winter. IIRC it was the weekend before Thanksgiving when I put down the seed. I did about 1/2 acre.

Lawn came up beautiful in the Spring. I know some will warn of a second freeze in the Spring and a kill off but IMO by the time the ground warms enough for germination and with the addition of the straw as an insulator there is little chance of that but that's just my opinion.


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## mccormick_3 (Sep 24, 2018)

I just broke up the ground today with a harley rake it was pretty hard with all the frost. I have about 4 acres to do so you think if I throw down seed and like rake it I should be good> Customer wants me to over seed in spring as well.


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## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

I would say, you can seed anytime but just be sure to manage expectations. Make sure they know what the results could be and the drawbacks. Don't want them mad at you later if they are disappointed.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

And have it in writing, not just verbal.


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## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

g-man said:


> And have it in writing, not just verbal.


+1


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## Pest and Lawn Ginja (Oct 18, 2018)

Seeding IMO can be done two ways. When the ground temps are above 50 and when they are permanently below 40 degrees. I carry a meat thermometer I got from Bed Bath and Beyond to check soil temps, 3" below the surface.

Morning frost is a big factor. It's best practice not to overseed if you're within 30 days of a heavy nighttime / morning frost. If this is the case you're better off doing a dormant overseed practice. Simply put wait until the soil temps are permanently below 40-45 degrees for the season then put the seed down. My only issue with this method is when the soil temps go back up into the 50's you need to instruct the customer to spot spray areas that are dry in the late winter / early spring to make sure that the seed starts the germination process.


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## MMoore (Aug 8, 2018)

Pest and Lawn Ginja said:


> Seeding IMO can be done two ways. When the ground temps are above 50 and when they are permanently below 40 degrees. I carry a meat thermometer I got from Bed Bath and Beyond to check soil temps, 3" below the surface.
> 
> Morning frost is a big factor. It's best practice not to overseed if you're within 30 days of a heavy nighttime / morning frost. If this is the case you're better off doing a dormant overseed practice. Simply put wait until the soil temps are permanently below 40-45 degrees for the season then put the seed down. My only issue with this method is when the soil temps go back up into the 50's you need to instruct the customer to spot spray areas that are dry in the late winter / early spring to make sure that the seed starts the germination process.


spot spray with....water?

love your channel btw. I did the dormant overseed this year in some areas that were struggling, hoping for the best come spring.


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## ABC123 (Jul 14, 2017)

I would drop seed as soon as the ground is officially frozen. If you can wait till late February dormant seeding has a higher success rate but it will work out just fine and should be plenty if there's a KBG seed involved. Two tenacity apps in the spring at 4oz/acre, these will be 30 and 60 days after noticing germination should eliminate most/all weeds. I don't believe adding more seed in the spring will be needed but it couldn't hurt.


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## Pest and Lawn Ginja (Oct 18, 2018)

MMoore said:


> Pest and Lawn Ginja said:
> 
> 
> > Seeding IMO can be done two ways. When the ground temps are above 50 and when they are permanently below 40 degrees. I carry a meat thermometer I got from Bed Bath and Beyond to check soil temps, 3" below the surface.
> ...


Sorry I'm just seeing this. ABC has a great suggestion. You do not need to apply water during the process other than spring time. you just don't want the ground to be bone dry.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

So, you guys who have put down seed in December or whatever, have not had it rot during the late Fall or early Spring? And it germinated fine in, say, April, without adding more seed after January? Because I'm considering putting some more down to do a dormant overseed (I normally do this in Feb. or March, but with lots of snow predicted this year if we keep going as we have been, I'd rather not have to wait until it melts to overseed).


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## thejunker (Jun 21, 2018)

Green said:


> So, you guys who have put down seed in December or whatever, have not had it rot during the late Fall or early Spring? And it germinated fine in, say, April, without adding more seed after January? Because I'm considering putting some more down to do a dormant overseed (I normally do this in Feb. or March, but with lots of snow predicted this year if we keep going as we have been, I'd rather not have to wait until it melts to overseed).


You can dormant seed on top of snow in Feb, it will work its way down during the normal freeze / thaw cycle through the winter / spring. December will work too, but germination rates will be lower. Seed is fairly cheap, I like your idea of doing both.


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## Pest and Lawn Ginja (Oct 18, 2018)

It's a lazy man's approach. IMO you'll have up to 30% seed die out. Which isn't that bad considering you're just throwing a bunch of seed out. This approach is for people who want to thicken up a lawn. I wouldn't count on this method to fix a problem lawn that doesn't have much grass. I've done this method a number of times and have had a pretty solid success rate. As I said before you need to be sure come spring time that the ground does not dry up.


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