# Best gas-proof paint?



## Wolf_22 (Aug 1, 2019)

I'm an idiot because for the past two or three weeks, I had been restoring my little push mower and during the course of all the work, decided to use some spray paint to make a really neat paint job only for it to be ruined with some fuel falling on it. Eh, it's not really a big deal or anything but I'd like to figure out what the best paint might be for this before returning to this at some point. Any thoughts on what product to use? I've read that epoxies are the way to go but I've never messed with epoxy before and know nothing about it or what the product / brands would be that I might be able to purchase from one of my local stores.

I also read how someone apparently used some spray paint but then at the end, covered the sprayed paint with some sort of (clear?) epoxy to protect it. He / she claimed it did the trick for about 3 years and on. Have any of you tried that? If so, what would be the epoxy to use for something like that?


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## Gilley11 (Nov 3, 2019)

I prefer automotive paint for things like that. It has GREAT oil and gas resistance.


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## Dkrem (Mar 16, 2019)

I'd say epoxy /gelcoat would be the most chemically durable.


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## FlaDave (Jul 10, 2018)

My opinion as an automotive collision repair tech would be to use an epoxy and topcoat it with a single stage urethane paint. You can get those from your local autobody supply stores, finishmaster, Albert kemperle, Ben's paint supply, Sherwin Williams, etc... The materials would cost you $$$. It might be cheaper to take the tank to a local autobody shop and ask them to do it for you. If you could find someone close by that can sandblast and powdercoat that would be the longest lasting most durable finish for it. Hope this helps.


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## Bigdrumnc (Mar 28, 2019)

Interlux bright side. Or go big awl grip


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## hsvtoolfool (Jul 23, 2018)

This may be overkill for a mower but this is my "super-durable-special-project" paint process. I only mention this because only two-part epoxies and maybe powder coats have a chance to withstand solvents like gasoline or methanol...

I first prep the raw metal per SPI instructions. Then I foam brush (or spray) two or three coats of SPI epoxy primer. I let the primer dry fully, then I scuff sand with a 3M abrasive pad, tack cloth, and clean with wax and grease remover. Finally, I spray two or three coats of a "value brand" auto-paint urethane color-coat, followed by spraying three coats of SPI universal clear coat...

There's nothing tougher than SPI epoxy primer. It's far tougher than powder coat if you prep the metal correctly and then apply SPI clear with UV protection. I'm 4 years into my mailbox job and it still looks new....



For small jobs (like my mailbox) where I just want durability, I brush on the SPI epoxy primer using a foam brush. Urethane color coats and the SPI clear coats are WAY too thin for a brush. So I'll either use a cheap "disposable" HVLP gun from harbor freight, or for a nicer finish, a 3M Accuspray kit (Part Number 16580). This is my personal favorite spray gun and I plan to paint my old Mustangs with it someday.

Caution: auto-paints are nasty chemicals! When I can't justify building a spray booth, I shoot outdoors on a sunny, dry day when it's not windy. I wear 7 to 9-mil nitrile gloves and a $20 auto-paint respirator I buy at the local auto-paint store. It's a 3M 5000 series half face assembly with carbon filter organic vapor protection.


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