# Is this fungus...



## Midget (Jul 23, 2019)

and why won't it go away?











So far this year (2500 sq ft backyard) -
12/19- 3 oz propiconazole 
1/13- bag DiseaseEx
2/10- 4 oz.propiconazole
2/24- bag DiseaseEx
3/17- 1 bottle of BioAdvance fungicide 
3/25- 6 oz. propic
4/16- 1 bottle BioAdv.
5/5- DiseaseEx (bag)
5/15- 1 bottle Bio.Ad
5/22- 8 oz 3336F 
5/29- bottle BioAdv
6/7- bag DiseaseEx 
6/12- BioAdv
6/17- 8oz 3336F
6/18- BioAdv 
6/29- DiseaseEx 
6/30- 12oz. Propic
7/11- BioAdv
8/8- BioAdv 
8/17- 8oz. 3335F
8/25- DiseaseEx 
9/6- 8oz. Propic 
9/10- 8oz. 3336F
10/5- BioAdv bottle

What the heck am I missing? I know it having been rainy season here in SWFL hasn't helped much, but I just sprayed BioAdv three days ago and it rained yesterday afternoon but these pics are from thIs morning!!! I sure would appreciate any help, I'm just about to give up and just let it all die!
P.s.- because of this problem I always bag clippings....


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## lambert (Sep 12, 2018)

Wow, that is a lot of fungicide! :shock:


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## brianuab (Jun 6, 2018)

Stop on the fungicide &#128558;. 
Might just be lack of certain micronutrients!!!


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## CenlaLowell (Apr 21, 2017)

Big fella. Stop the fungicide and make a plan for spraying.

Azoxystrobin once a month
Propiconazle every 14 days

That's all you need.


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## Midget (Jul 23, 2019)

Sorry folks, I didn't want to confuse with possibly non topical info but those are just the fungicide apps. brianuab- I didn't include all of the Next product apps and Carbon X and XGRN apps. Also, CenlaLowell I don't understand- BioAdv is 2.42% propic and DiseaseEx is .31% Azoxystrobin... Am I using the wrong percentage of these products?! Since I have been fighting this since January and the fungus(es?sp)have not gone away , what am I missing? I thought 3 MODs were better also... Last time I tried Next 901 I got grey leaf spot in August! sorry if I'm slow to catch on , I really appreciate your help and replies.


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

I'm with @brianuab just give it a good shot of micros (foliar if possible). I'd be surprised if that didn't take care of it.


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## lambert (Sep 12, 2018)

How much nitrogen have you put down this season? Also, what about herbicides?


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## Midget (Jul 23, 2019)

I sent my soul tests in Monday. When I get them back I'll have a better handle on micros and macros but-
1/13- 15lbs. Milo
2/1-5lbs Scott's Triple Action (16-0-1)
2/18- 7.5 lbs starter fert(didn't record info)
3/14- 25lb Ringer 10-0-6
4/19- 25lb. Ringer
5/3- 34oz. 19-0-1 Greenstart
5/8- 7lb. CarbonX 
5/29- 10lb CarbonX 
6/13- 32oz Greenstart
6/22-24oz GreenEffect 7-0-0
7/3- 24oz GreenEffect
7/30- 16oz GreenEffect
No fert in August due to grey leaf spot
9/2- 10lbs Milo
9/28- 12lbs XGreen 8-1-8
Whatcha think Lambert? Too much? Too little.
Herbicides affect fungus?!?! Sorry, like I said, I'm a newbie, thanks for the help everybody.


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## Easyluck (Feb 5, 2019)

I would start with reading and understanding labels.

propiconazole 14.3 should be applied at 1-2 oz / 1000 sqft. The annual max is 16 oz / 1000 sqft.

BioAdvance fungicide's AI is propiconazole. 32 ounce of ready to spray will treat 5000 sqft at preventative rate and 2500 sqft curative. 16 bottles annual max at preventative and 8 bottles at curative per year.

Perhaps the issue is over applying propiconazole.

Let the grass rest for a for weeks. Stop watering, stop applying fert, stop applying fungicides. Just mow.

You could also submit a tissue sample for proper fungus identification to alleviate your concerns.


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## BermudaBoy (Jun 27, 2019)

Midget said:


> I sent my soul tests in Monday. When I get them back I'll have a better handle on micros and macros but-
> 1/13- 15lbs. Milo
> 2/1-5lbs Scott's Triple Action (16-0-1)
> 2/18- 7.5 lbs starter fert(didn't record info)
> ...


I'm trying to follow your fertilization schedule but it seems to be all over the place. I've never seen one person use so many different products in one year. I'd stick to one main fertilizer such as CarbonX and feed on a regular schedule . It looks like you want to do more frequent applications so maybe go with .25 pounds N/1000 sq feet every two weeks. Floratam doesn't need nearly as much nitrogen as Bermuda so if you want to do micro-feedings it looks like 2.6 pounds of CarbonX every two weeks will do the trick on a 2500 square foot yard, or double the amount and apply it once a month. Then supplement it with some micronutrients such as 0-0-2 MicroGreene since you like the GCF products. Keep your fertilization schedule simple and consistent.

As @Easyluck said, you gotta learn how to read the labels to make sure you're applying the right amount. It's my first year doing this yard thing as well so we're all learning this together. Mistakes will be made and that's life.


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## lambert (Sep 12, 2018)

That could be herbicide damage instead of fungus. Could you post your herbicide apps this season.


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## Midget (Jul 23, 2019)

lambert- Herbicide apps -
12/18- spot spray Sedgehammer 
12/22- Scott's crabgrass preventer 1/2 bag
2/9- Prodiamine- 4oz
3/28- Prodiamine- 5/8 oz
4/10- Sedgehammer spot spray (front and backyard 5700 sq ft)
9/16- 2x.25 Blindside w + .9g sedgehammer

BremudaBoy- yes, you're right, my fert. schedule has been a little mixed up, mostly because this is my first year of this and maybe I've been watching too many different YouTube people but I didn't know what to use while I was waiting for CarbonX and then XGRN. Milo was safe but too slow and too much phosphorus. Going forward I'll probably only be using CarbonX and XGRN and Next product biostimulants.

Easyluck- thanks for your reply also. I do read and try to follow label instructions but what I'm not experienced enough to know is what I can do when I still have the fungus yet I'm maxed out of all of my fungicides. Believe me, I'm open to all of you guys suggestions and appreciate your help.
This all started out last December when the local ag.ext. Agent verified that I had TARR. I have been fighting it ever since. Would better pics help with whether this is a fungus or not or what I need to do? 
Again, thanks.


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## Easyluck (Feb 5, 2019)

If you know for sure it is TARR, top dressing with peat moss has proven an effective means of controlling it. Peat moss has a low PH and TARR has difficulties surviving in acidic soils.

http://counties.agrilife.org/williamson/files/2011/07/PEATMOSS_TOPDRESSING_for_TARR_3.pdf


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## Midget (Jul 23, 2019)

You're quite right, Easyluck, that was probably the first thing I did after finding out about the TARR. ( Funny now that I think about it, the county ag agent didn't even suggest that, I saw a YouTube on it as a fix) I put down a full bale on the back yard in January. Do you think I need to reapply or wait a few days until my soil test comes back? I don't know if peat moss will work on whatever is going on in the pictures. Unfortunately I don't think the Soil Savvy test is thorough enough to tell me what is wrong. Thanks for the article to refresh my memory.


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## Greyleafspot (Oct 16, 2018)

I think it's the fungicide causing the issue. I've heard fungicide make it looks worse before it gets better. I had some brown patch pop up and I put down azoxy and propaconizal on the whole lawn. My lawn looks like that now.


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Warm season grasses do not react to Propiconazole very well. I do not use it. I rather use Myclobutanil or the rate of Triadimefon applied in the pre mixed product Armada WDG.


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## Midget (Jul 23, 2019)

Thanks Greyleafspot and Greendoc for your replies. I will definitely make the change from propiconazole, Greendoc!!!
Just got this today- yikes on the iron and potassium!!



Not sure how to cure the others except more Next sprays and more peat moss ... surprised nitrogen was so close but


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## ktgrok (May 25, 2019)

Greendoc said:


> Warm season grasses do not react to Propiconazole very well. I do not use it. I rather use Myclobutanil or the rate of Triadimefon applied in the pre mixed product Armada WDG.


Yup. Propiconazole did more damage to my bermuda than the fungus did. I won't use it again. I've used Disease Ex fairly successfully BUT needs to be done about every 2 weeks when my grass is under stress. I also used a thiophanate methyl product as something to rotate, although I think the Disease Ex worked better.

Something not asked - is your grass under other stress? I'm finding disease mainly hits mine when it is already stressed - in my case by heat/drought. Fungus always starts in the areas of my yard that have the worst sprinkler coverage. Hand watering those areas when they look wilted has pretty much kept it under control.

I also found that pushing too much growth too fast set it up for fungus - that can be too much nitrogen but also too much sea kelp or other biostimulant. Have you been following label directions for those?

And I didn't pay close enough attention so ignore this if already addressed, but are you putting down a good amount of potassium with your nitrogen? Low potassium is linked to fungus issues as well. Per Greendoc and the Grass Factor I no longer put down any nitrogen without at least some potassium.

Edited to add: Just saw your soil test - yup! Low potassium. Mine was super low too. I've done some potassium only applications, and when I put down Nitrogen I put down an equal amount of potassium. From what I've read/heard for every 1 pound of nitrogen you put down the plant uses up 0.5lbs or more of potassium processing it. Easy to get in a hole if you aren't using a balanced fertilizer. And some soils (mine) are naturally low in it - seems most of Florida is high phosphorous, low potassium.


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## ktgrok (May 25, 2019)

If you want to use one of the popular hybrid fertilizers, I'd switch to XGRN 8-1-8 instead of the Carbon X. Will give you the potassium you need and has iron in it as well. And way easier to spread than the Carbon X. And watch your sea kelp products - I over applied and it freaked out my grass - tons of top growth and then fungus.


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## ktgrok (May 25, 2019)

And definitely listen to Greendoc. (I never listen to anyone, and wasted a ton of time NOT taking his advice). 
Warm season grass on sandy soil is a totally different animal than what most turf advice is referring to with their recommendations. Just totally different. 
And I believe St. Augustine thrives on a bit more neglect than you are giving it. Grasses, even fancy ones, are evolved from pastures/fields with zero input.


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## Midget (Jul 23, 2019)

ktgrok - 
thanks for all the advice. After I got the soil test back I did some checking on potassium boosting. I think it was LCN who showed using K25 and I see on DoMyOwn Turfgrass Pro has 0-0-29 that looks possible. Since I'll be putting down Yard Mastery .172% dithiopyr 0-0-20 soon for pre-em I'm not sure when or how much more I will need.
The short time I've been lurking and been a member here I have learned one valuable lesson- Greendoc IS THE MAN !!  Believe me I will heed his advice! No more propiconazole for my yard!! Thanks for re enforcing the idea.
I thought I was the only one that had trouble spreading CarbonX. Did the RGS addition gum up your spreader drop hole too? Maybe you're right, more XGRN and less/no CarbonX. Only problem is I still have a bag of CarbonX left... :? 
My biggest fungus problems show up during our famous "rainy season" and unfortunately I can't stop that. I think going forward I might use what Greendoc suggested and maybe Azoxy 50 WG instead of DiseaseEx hoping that it will take less watering in and might dry on the area faster and not get washed away like a granular possibly does in our afternoon downpours... Or maybe swap between the two liquid myclobutanil and Armada wdg and keep using DiseaseEx as a different moa? What do y'all think? 
Thanks so much for all y'all's help!!


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## SwBermuda (Jun 9, 2019)

Greendoc said:


> Warm season grasses do not react to Propiconazole very well. I do not use it. I rather use Myclobutanil or the rate of Triadimefon applied in the pre mixed product Armada WDG.


how many different groups do you use for fungicides?

I was thinking of using 3 MOA 
Thiophante
Azoxy
then Myclobutanil??? Does it matter which groups you actually use??


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

I use as many as legally possible. There is another group known as a group 7 fungicide. A lot of times, these are pre packaged with group 11 fungicides. Some examples of these products include Lexicon by BASF and Exteris by Bayer.

As for fungicide rotations and combinations, I keep in mind that Azoxy is not the best product for DollarSpot. Myclobutanil is not the best for Leaf Spot and Brown Patch diseases. Here is a good read on fungicides https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=4042&hilit=fungicide+guide


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## Chrisholmes02 (Jan 19, 2019)

Greendoc said:


> I use as many as legally possible. There is another group known as a group 7 fungicide. A lot of times, these are pre packaged with group 11 fungicides. Some examples of these products include Lexicon by BASF and Exteris by Bayer.
> 
> As for fungicide rotations and combinations, I keep in mind that Azoxy is not the best product for DollarSpot. Myclobutanil is not the best for Leaf Spot and Brown Patch diseases. Here is a good read on fungicides https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=4042&hilit=fungicide+guide


Related side question. When spraying fungicide as a preventative seasonal measure, must you use the preventative rate every 14 days or are you able to use the curative rate and spray every 28?


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## daniel3507 (Jul 31, 2018)

If using 3 different MOA do you rotate each one when doing preventative? So MOA #1 first app, MOA 2 the second, etc.

Also @Greendoc of you really only wanted to do 2 fungicides for preventative which would you recommend?


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Chrisholmes02 said:


> Greendoc said:
> 
> 
> > I use as many as legally possible. There is another group known as a group 7 fungicide. A lot of times, these are pre packaged with group 11 fungicides. Some examples of these products include Lexicon by BASF and Exteris by Bayer.
> ...


I would follow the label. However, next question I would ask myself is why is my lawn needing so much disease management. Am I watering too much, too little? Am I not keeping the grass short and thin? Am I making grass grow in shade? Is my soil at a good pH. Am I overfertilizing? Is the fertilizer program I have decided on supplying everything the grass needs in balanced amounts and according to what the grass needs.


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

daniel3507 said:


> If using 3 different MOA do you rotate each one when doing preventative? So MOA #1 first app, MOA 2 the second, etc.
> 
> Also @Greendoc of you really only wanted to do 2 fungicides for preventative which would you recommend?


Two MOAs or two specific products and on what type of turf?


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## daniel3507 (Jul 31, 2018)

Greendoc said:


> daniel3507 said:
> 
> 
> > If using 3 different MOA do you rotate each one when doing preventative? So MOA #1 first app, MOA 2 the second, etc.
> ...


Just two MOA on Bermuda. Trying to figure out a simple preventative program for next year. Of course if I do get hit with a fungus I have no problem bringing in a third curative MOA if needed.


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

3336 Eagle 20 EW. Not Propiconazole. Fine and good for cool season grasses, But Bermuda and St Augustine can react adversely.


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## Chrisholmes02 (Jan 19, 2019)

Greendoc said:


> Chrisholmes02 said:
> 
> 
> > Greendoc said:
> ...


I have St. Augustine in the backyard, which is moderately to heavily shaded. I battled and lost to fungus this whole season. I was trying to come up with a preventative plan for next year. It was my understanding that it is prone to fungus regardless. I would love to fix all the other factors, and am researching and applying what I can. Unfortunately there isn't a "St. Augustine Bible" that has all the answers in one spot. Any advice would be much appreciated, sir.


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## Midget (Jul 23, 2019)

Chrisholmes02 said:


> Greendoc said:
> 
> 
> > Chrisholmes02 said:
> ...


Sounds like my situation exactly, Chrisholmes02!!! I too am on the quest for that SA Bible!! :nod: 
Thanks for the link , Greendoc, I have printed it out for future reference. Appreciate all of your advice. :thumbup:


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## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

In the propiconazole label, it states Bermuda is sensitive to it. I would use something else. If you want a group 3, consider triadimefon or myclobutanil.


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Triadimefon forms the basis of Armada fungicide. A product that has worked well for many diseases on grasses. Triadimefon by itself is a very good Dollar Spot, powdery Mildew and Rust fungicide. By combining it with Trifloxystrobin in Armada, efficacy is extended to Leaf Spots and Brown Patch type diseases. If someone could only buy one product for a small to medium sized, this is what I would advise.


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