# Grub Control



## Ware

If you plan to use Scotts GrubEx for preventive grub control, now is a good time to apply it. This MSU article states that its active ingredient (chlorantraniliprole 0.08%) should be applied between April 1 and May 30 for best results. This is a couple months earlier than the recommended timing for some other active ingredients/products.

What does everyone else use (if anything) for grub control?


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## dfw_pilot

I try to drop the new version of GrubEx around April 15th. Apparently the new AI works better and is less harmful to bees.


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## Mightyquinn

I spray Imidacloprid (ImidaPRO 2SC) every 3 months to keep them under control.


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## Ware

Mightyquinn said:


> I spray Imidacloprid (ImidaPRO 2SC) every 3 months to keep them under control.


Imidacloprid is one of the ones mentioned in the article that is best applied in June or July to control newly hatched grubs. They say none of the preventives like chlorantraniliprole or imidacloprid are effective on larger grubs that are found from September to May.


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## Mightyquinn

I've had good success with it even after an infestation. All I know is that I spray that stuff down and grubs come crawling out of the ground after irrigation or rainfall.


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## touchofgrass

Mightyquinn said:


> I've had good success with it even after an infestation. All I know is that I spray that stuff down and grubs come crawling out of the ground after irrigation or rainfall.


did you use it recently... I don't like those guys ... it's like a damn mine field going to take Titan out back to his spot


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## atc4usmc

I put out Milky pore last spring...supposed to last ten years! We shall see!


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## LowCountryCharleston

dfw_pilot said:


> I try to drop the new version of GrubEx around April 15th. Apparently the new AI works better and is less harmful to bees.


Thanks that's good to know. I plan on putting in some bee houses to help them and my garden. Is there a good way to know the new version?
Thanks!


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## dfw_pilot

Chlorantraniliprole is the newer AI. Here's a link about it with bees.


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## LowCountryCharleston

dfw_pilot said:


> Chlorantraniliprole is the newer AI. Here's a link about it with bees.


Great thanks!!


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## Austinite

Permitherin seemed to do the trick for me last year. I had a small infestation of grubs and I also had army worms. Both handled well by Permitherin.


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## SCGrassMan

What about an active infestation of grubs, right now, where I have freshly scraped grass off of and plan on putting sod down?


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## Greendoc

Dylox.


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## Ware

SCGrassMan said:


> What about an active infestation of grubs, right now, where I have freshly scraped grass off of and plan on putting sod down?


From what I have read, trichlorfon (Dylox) and carbaryl (Sevin) are the go-to AI's for curative grub control.


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## Greendoc

Ware said:


> SCGrassMan said:
> 
> 
> 
> What about an active infestation of grubs, right now, where I have freshly scraped grass off of and plan on putting sod down?
> 
> 
> 
> From what I have read, trichlorfon (Dylox) and carbaryl (Sevin) are the go-to AI's for curative grub control.
Click to expand...

Correct. Carbaryl is no longer allowed on residential lawns except as a spot application? How does one spot apply knowing insects are going to eat most of the lawn?


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## SCGrassMan

Carbaryl is allowed in my state. Guess I will plan on getting a bag of each. Which sucks for like <900 square feet. Was hoping you were going to say bifenthrin lol


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## Greendoc

Make sure it is Carbaryl. I saw bags and bottles labeled "sevin" that were actually Zeta-Cypermethrin.


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## Ware

Greendoc said:


> Make sure it is Carbaryl. I saw bags and bottles labeled "sevin" that were actually Zeta-Cypermethrin.


+1


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## SCGrassMan

I think that's the stuff that made my face tingle when I got a facefull this fall :-/


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## tomartom

What's the stance of Chlorpyrifos in the states?


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## J_nick

tomartom said:


> What's the stance of Chlorpyrifos in the states?


Looks like it was banned for home use in 2001 but farmers and golf courses can still use it.


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## tomartom

I use it here in Aus, long pants, gloves mask and goggles though. I will probably move away from it though when I finish the bottle. 
It is broad spectrum, and has some residual


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## iFisch3224

Anything else that can be used that doesn't cost $160-$180/bottle?

Just exploring options before investing into a 2.5gal container of product.


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## jha4aamu

iFisch3224 said:


> Anything else that can be used that doesn't cost $160-$180/bottle?
> 
> Just exploring options before investing into a 2.5gal container of product.


just curious as to what grub control product you have found thats $180/bottle? chlorantraniliprole is only $40 at Lowes/HD and one bag should cover your 4k of lawn


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## iFisch3224

jha4aamu said:


> iFisch3224 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anything else that can be used that doesn't cost $160-$180/bottle?
> 
> Just exploring options before investing into a 2.5gal container of product.
> 
> 
> 
> just curious as to what grub control product you have found thats $180/bottle? chlorantraniliprole is only $40 at Lowes/HD and one bag should cover your 4k of lawn
Click to expand...

Dylox is $180 and I found the Bayer Sevin SL or whatever for $130/bottle.


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## g-man

@iFisch3224 dylox is a curative product. You use it to kill the big live grubs. It last a few days in the soil. I don't recall Sevin being good for grubs.

Chlorantraniliprole is a preventive product. You apply it in spring and it stays in the soil for a few months. When the insects lay eggs in the summer, the product prevents them from developing into grubs. This way to prevent the cycle.

This article from MSU goes into more detail. MSU Grub Control


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## Ware

@iFisch3224 @g-man

I think the Bayer Sevin (Carbaryl) can be used as a curative for grubs, but it is not labeled for use on home lawns.

The red bottles of "Sevin" found in box stores has transitioned to a new active ingredient - Zeta-Cypermethrin. I'm not sure if it works on grubs.


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## jha4aamu

iFisch3224 said:


> jha4aamu said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> iFisch3224 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anything else that can be used that doesn't cost $160-$180/bottle?
> 
> Just exploring options before investing into a 2.5gal container of product.
> 
> 
> 
> just curious as to what grub control product you have found thats $180/bottle? chlorantraniliprole is only $40 at Lowes/HD and one bag should cover your 4k of lawn
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Dylox is $180 and I found the Bayer Sevin SL or whatever for $130/bottle.
Click to expand...

at the high rate of 7oz/k 2.5 gallons of dylox is enough for 11 apps on 4k of lawn. 
chlorantraniliprole ($40) in mid april and Imidacloprid ($35) in late june worked well for me


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## Sandi

Last year I had a massive grub infestation and ruined lawn. While I'm reading forums and articles I wonder if I made mistake when I applied manure fertilizer in spring. "Female green June beetles lay eggs in the soil of sites with an abundance of decaying organic matter- thatch, animal manure, or organic fertilizers. This ensures food for developing larvae."

On the other side, I wonder if I help the lawn with humic acid, which promotes root growth.

reference
https://kentuckypestnews.wordpress.com/2018/10/16/green-june-beetle-the-other-white-grubs/


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## craigdt

Ware said:


> @iFisch3224 @g-man
> 
> I think the Bayer Sevin (Carbaryl) can be used as a curative for grubs, but it is not labeled for use on home lawns.
> 
> The red bottles of "Sevin" found in box stores has transitioned to a new active ingredient - Zeta-Cypermethrin. I'm not sure if it works on grubs.


This is true. I had to make an Amazon return since they started shipping the new stuff


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## 440mag

Sandi said:


> Last year I had a massive grub infestation and ruined lawn. While I'm reading forums and articles I wonder if I made mistake when I applied manure fertilizer in spring. "Female green June beetles lay eggs in the soil of sites with an abundance of decaying organic matter- thatch, animal manure, or organic fertilizers. This ensures food for developing larvae."
> 
> On the other side, I wonder if I help the lawn with humic acid, which promotes root growth.
> 
> reference
> https://kentuckypestnews.wordpress.com/2018/10/16/green-june-beetle-the-other-white-grubs/


Just more food, for developed larvae! I know as, with the best of intentions, I was procuring all manner of organic matter from local farmers and had no idea the absolute nightmare I was setting myself up for. "Attracting" egg layers was the least of my problems; one or more loads contained wire worms for which there is no chemical curative - you find them in your lawn and you need to run, not walk, to order up some live beneficial nematodes. Needless to say, it was a terribly ex$pen$ive le$$on! :roll:


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## craigdt

After my massive grub outbreak and subsequent grub damage last fall, I dropped a granulate application of the Bayer 24 Hour GrubKiller Plus as a curative approach. It uses Trichlorfon.

Since I have no idea where in the life cycle my particular grubs are (and I probably have several varieties), my plan this year is as follows:

Mid April- Trichlorfon application via Bayer 24 Hour GrubKiller Plus as another curative treatment
June- Imidacloprid via Dominion 2L liquid. The first of the preventative applications.
September- another GrubKiller Plus. Should be the last of the curative treatments. May not be necessary


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## Pawel

atc4usmc said:


> I put out Milky pore last spring...supposed to last ten years! We shall see!


that's what i want to try this year (it does say it might take more than one application so i wonder if i should use it with grub-ex or something)


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## Ware

Ware said:


> If you plan to use Scotts GrubEx for preventive grub control, now is a good time to apply it. This MSU article states that its active ingredient (chlorantraniliprole 0.08%) should be applied between April 1 and May 30 for best results. This is a couple months earlier than the recommended timing for some other active ingredients/products.


Bumping this as a reminder for anyone who plans to use GrubEx this year. I will be putting mine down within the next week or two. The 10k ft2[/sup] bag on Amazon was a little cheaper than buying (2) 5k ft[sup]2 bags at my local box store this year. :thumbup:


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## osuturfman

craigdt said:


> After my massive grub outbreak and subsequent grub damage last fall, I dropped a granulate application of the Bayer 24 Hour GrubKiller Plus as a curative approach. It uses Trichlorfon.
> 
> Since I have no idea where in the life cycle my particular grubs are (and I probably have several varieties), my plan this year is as follows:
> 
> Mid April- Trichlorfon application via Bayer 24 Hour GrubKiller Plus as another curative treatment
> June- Imidacloprid via Dominion 2L liquid. The first of the preventative applications.
> September- another GrubKiller Plus. Should be the last of the curative treatments. May not be necessary


Save yourself the time and expense. Just apply chlorantraniliprole in the month of April.

The biggest issue related to performance of all preventative grub treatments, granular or liquid, is not watering in well enough to get the active ingredient past the thatch layer. One trick you can use to increase your odds of getting the AI on target is adding a wetting agent to a liquid app.


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## g-man

I went to Lowe's this morning. The website said they had 71 in aisle 23. No there and they had no clue. I will hit another one.


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## cnet24

Anyone have experience with Merit? Domyown has a 30lb bag for only $59. Looks like the app rate is 1.4lbs-1.8lbs per 1k.


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## Kissfromnick

Merit 0.5 Granular Systemic Insect Control does the trick.


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## sportsman10

Ace Hardware has a 14.35 lb bag of GrubEx (5K sq ft) on sale for $20.99. That's about $3 less than big box stores in my area. Also, you can get an extra $3 off if you're an Ace Rewards member (free to join). Final price for me was $17.99+tx for 5K coverage. Sale ends 4/30/19. Limit (2) per membership.


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## SCGrassMan

g-man said:


> I went to Lowe's this morning. The website said they had 71 in aisle 23. No there and they had no clue. I will hit another one.


If they pull out the pocket computer it's safe to say they're clueless. I start walking away when it comes out.


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## Mark102

Went out in the yard and gathered a few soil samples to be sent off. Found this little guy in my first sample. I have never seen them in my soil but it might explain why my lawn has never really come around no matter what I do. I will get some grub ex and put it down. Does soil or air temp matter? I'm in Vermont and we are stll seeing 40F soil temps and 50-40 daytime temps.


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## g-man

The first post on this thread has a MSU website with their recommendations.

tl;Dr Grubex at green up.


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## Mark102

Will Dimensions have any affect on Grubex or vise versa?


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## osuturfman

Mark102 said:


> Will Dimensions have any affect on Grubex or vise versa?


None


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## Mark102

osuturfman said:


> Mark102 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Will Dimensions have any affect on Grubex or vise versa?
> 
> 
> 
> None
Click to expand...

So it doesn't matter which one I put down first or how far apart I apply them?


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## g-man

Nope. You can do them back to back.


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## Mark102

g-man said:


> Nope. You can do them back to back.


Thank you! I appreciate the help.


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## TN Hawkeye

Greendoc said:


> Make sure it is Carbaryl. I saw bags and bottles labeled "sevin" that were actually Zeta-Cypermethrin.


I just watched How To With Docs grub killing video and the new Anderson's product he is pitching list carbaryl as one of the AI (at least he states in the video that it is). I wonder if it is actually the newer AI you guys are talking about.

Edit- I just checked it on Amazon and it lists 2.3% Carbaryl.


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## TN Hawkeye

Sometimes stupid decisions can turn out to be a benefit. At my old house I had a small yard and didn't need a big spreader so I bought the Scotts Snap spreader. One the the local close out places in town had the Scotts Grubex in the Snap bags for 11.99 for 4000 square feet of coverage. Has the same AI as the stuff at Lowe's and cost about half. Got enough to do my 8000 square foot front yard for $24.


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## g-man

TN Hawkeye said:


> Greendoc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure it is Carbaryl. I saw bags and bottles labeled "sevin" that were actually Zeta-Cypermethrin.
> 
> 
> 
> I just watched How To With Docs grub killing video and the new Anderson's product he is pitching list carbaryl as one of the AI (at least he states in the video that it is). I wonder if it is actually the newer AI you guys are talking about.
> 
> Edit- I just checked it on Amazon and it lists 2.3% Carbaryl.
Click to expand...

No. Carbaryl is a curative product not a preventive. It is listed in the MSU article in the first post of this thread.


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## Scagfreedom48z+

I was thinking about spraying a low dose curative application of Dylox 420 SL to my lawn today. We are expecting a good soak overnight into tomorrow am. Would it be better if I hold off on the application? It does need to be watered in or have a wet layer of thatch/top soil. I'm just concerned that we might get a down pour rendering it ineffective.

" After application (on the same day), irrigate with suf- ficient water to thoroughly wet the remaining thatch and top layers of the soil. If sufficient rainfall to thoroughly wet the thatch and top layers of soil occurs after application and prior to irrigation, further irrigation is not re quired. Under dry conditions, pre-water prior to application for optimum control of white grubs and weevil larvae."


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## 440mag

Excellent reference: 
*Does Imidacloprid Reduce Defoliation by Japanese Beetles on Linden for More Than One Growing Season? *
http://joa.isa-arbor.com/request.asp?JournalID=1&ArticleID=3017&Type=2

After our smashing success using Milky Disease Spore (just once , back in 2015!) to completely wipe out the Jap Beetle grubs once under our turf, our doing root drenches around the trunk of all ornamentals using *Fertilome Tree and Shrub Insect Killer* has been the "one-two punch" as far as killing the grubs that fly to our place from elsewhere! :thumbup:


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## g-man

@Scagfreedom48z+ do you have a grub problem that needs a curative ? Some of the curative are like a nuclear option and kill more than just grubs.


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## Scagfreedom48z+

g-man said:


> @Scagfreedom48z+ do you have a grub problem that needs a curative ? Some of the curative are like a nuclear option and kill more than just grubs.


That's the thing. I don't see any visible issue. I'm just overly concerned with an outbreak of grubs. I have both dylox and imidacloprid for use. I was going to put down a low rate but wanted to get insight on it.


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## 440mag

g-man said:


> The first post on this thread has a MSU website with their recommendations.
> 
> tl;Dr Grubex at green up.


It doesn't get much better than that reference piece in Post #1 this thread. MSU "updates" it annually; however; nothing of any real substance has changed over last several years. It is indispensable for determining whether a curative or preventative is needed and, either way which to use, etc.

Best o' Success!


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## Scagfreedom48z+

440mag said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> The first post on this thread has a MSU website with their recommendations.
> 
> tl;Dr Grubex at green up.
> 
> 
> 
> It doesn't get much better than that reference piece in Post #1 this thread. MSU "updates" it annually; however; nothing of any real substance has changed over last several years. It is indispensable for determining whether a curative or preventative is needed and, either way which to use, etc.
> 
> Best o' Success!
Click to expand...

I read the article as well and that's what sparked the idea to throw down dylox to kill off any potential chance of grubs.

I was going to also throw down a preventative at the end of May/Early June as well


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## Green

Scagfreedom48z+ said:


> I was going to also throw down a preventative at the end of May/Early June as well


June is a bit on the late side...unless you're using Imidacloprid (and then it may be a bit too early).


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## Scagfreedom48z+

Green said:


> Scagfreedom48z+ said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to also throw down a preventative at the end of May/Early June as well
> 
> 
> 
> June is a bit on the late side...unless you're using Imidacloprid (and then it may be a bit too early).
Click to expand...

Yes I have Imidacloprid on hand to apply as a preventative


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## Green

Scagfreedom48z+ said:


> Green said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scagfreedom48z+ said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to also throw down a preventative at the end of May/Early June as well
> 
> 
> 
> June is a bit on the late side...unless you're using Imidacloprid (and then it may be a bit too early).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes I have Imidacloprid on hand to apply as a preventative
Click to expand...

There was a post recently about how some of the beetles are later in the season now, and an expert was quoted, saying that in our area the optimal timing for Imidacloprid is more like July now. I know when I had a lawn service, they generally put it down in July.


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## Grass Clippins

Check out this beast my neighbor found last summer. Looks like a rattlesnake rattle. Goes without saying that I'm putting down Scott's GrubEx before the rain this Friday.


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## Scagfreedom48z+

Grass Clippins said:


> Check out this beast my neighbor found last summer. Looks like a rattlesnake rattle. Goes without saying that I'm putting down Scott's GrubEx before the rain this Friday.


Wow. That thing is a dinosaur. That can feed a raccoon for the entire season!


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## g-man

FYI. That doesn't look like a grub. It looks like a old houses borer.


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## Grass Clippins

@Scagfreedom48z+ @g-man I'm 99% sure it's a Pine Beetle with that tapered tail and no legs. They've been really active around here since the drought we had a few years ago. I freaked myself out trying to ID it because it looks a lot like an Asian Longhorn Beetle, supposedly those are bad news.


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## bullet

Woulda bag of Roundup Bug Destroyer work? I still got a bag from last year I have yet to use. Let me find the ingredients...


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## g-man

Check the active ingredients against the report from MSU in the first post of this thread.


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## bullet

Roundup Bug Destroyer

0.060% Chlorantraniliprole
0.115% Bifenthrin

Scotts GrubEx

0.08% Chlorantraniliprole

Bifenthrin is definitely a bug killer because I'm using the same ingredient to spray around/inside my house. The MSU article says it will not work on grubs, but Chlorantraniliprole will, which both products have.

EDIT:
Actually I think there's a spelling error on that article. They have chlorantranil*o*prole instead of Chlorantranil*i*prole in one section saying, "will not control grubs in the spring. They are preventive products..."


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## Alex1389

When is it too late for GrubEx? I threw some down yesterday (finally) in Northern NJ.


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## ken-n-nancy

Alex1389 said:


> When is it too late for GrubEx? I threw some down yesterday (finally) in Northern NJ.


You're still okay on timing for GrubEx (chlorantraniliprole). Mid-May would be pushing it, though.


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## Green

ken-n-nancy said:


> Alex1389 said:
> 
> 
> 
> When is it too late for GrubEx? I threw some down yesterday (finally) in Northern NJ.
> 
> 
> 
> You're still okay on timing for GrubEx (chlorantraniliprole). Mid-May would be pushing it, though.
Click to expand...

Better late than never. But after late May to early June (in Northern New England), there's probably little point, it seems.


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## Scagfreedom48z+

Green said:


> ken-n-nancy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alex1389 said:
> 
> 
> 
> When is it too late for GrubEx? I threw some down yesterday (finally) in Northern NJ.
> 
> 
> 
> You're still okay on timing for GrubEx (chlorantraniliprole). Mid-May would be pushing it, though.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Better late than never. But after late May to early June (in Northern New England), there's probably little point, it seems.
Click to expand...

I was looking into this last night, since I was curious myself. UMass recommended it later on, in order for the residual effects to last through later on in the year.

https://ag.umass.edu/turf/fact-sheets/current-insecticide-approaches-for-white-grub-control

What have your previous grub control experiences been?


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## Scagfreedom48z+

Green said:


> ken-n-nancy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alex1389 said:
> 
> 
> 
> When is it too late for GrubEx? I threw some down yesterday (finally) in Northern NJ.
> 
> 
> 
> You're still okay on timing for GrubEx (chlorantraniliprole). Mid-May would be pushing it, though.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Better late than never. But after late May to early June (in Northern New England), there's probably little point, it seems.
Click to expand...

I was researching this last night as well. I would be using imidacloprid and according to UMass, their field trials show that imidacloprid should not be applied earlier than mid June, in order to have longer lasting effect on grub control into the later months.

https://ag.umass.edu/turf/fact-sheets/current-insecticide-approaches-for-white-grub-control

Does anyone have insight on previous experiences or can debate this? Seems pretty late to apply.


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## g-man

@Scagfreedom48z+ the product they are referring to is chlorantraniliprole. The article has application timing for it and imidacloprid and it matches the MSU timing. Great link by the way.



> Chlorantraniliprole (Acelepryn™ for commercial applicators, GrubEx™ for homeowners) is a relatively new insecticide from DuPont that has very low toxicity to vertebrates and no activity against bees, ants, or wasps. The product has a very low level of toxicity, so much so that a signal word is not required on the label, not even "Caution". It is extremely effective against all the species of white grubs we have in New England, as well as most caterpillars (such as cutworms, armyworms, and webworms). However, it takes 60 to 90 days to fully dissipate in the soil so for optimum effectiveness against grubs, it should be applied between mid April and early June. Applications after early June may result in reduced efficacy for grub control, but will still provide excellent protection against caterpillars.


. - https://ag.umass.edu/turf/fact-sheets/current-insecticide-approaches-for-white-grub-control


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## Green

Imidacloprid: June or July in the Northeast. In my area, early July is probably ideal...right during the egg laying period. They say it has been shifting later over time due to the specific species. But this AI doesn't more than a few weeks after applying.

Chlorantraniliprole: you just want it down ahead of time, or way ahead of time because it takes longer to be watered in fully and lasts longer after.


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## jakemauldin

@ctrav I did some more research and thought you might find this thread helpful. Grubex treats for Army worms as well (checked the label). So I'm going to buy some of this and throw her down in the next two weeks.


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## ctrav

jakemauldin said:


> @ctrav I did some more research and thought you might find this thread helpful. Grubex treats for Army worms as well (checked the label). So I'm going to buy some of this and throw her down in the next two weeks.


Thank you sir as I found this last night as well...


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## ctrav

@jakemauldin I have called around to a few places and I think Im going with Aloft or Merit as opposed to Grubex. Leaning more towards the Aloft at this point as it takes care of more than just the grubs. Its on the expensive side at $70 a bag and I need at least 2.

Or....I could give this a shot at $5 per bag and I only need 3 bags??? Perhaps applying Cross Check as an additional preventative may work well....


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## g-man

@ctrav please give the MSU article in the first post a read.



> Products that will NOT kill grubs
> Spectracide Triazicide Insect Killer for Lawns - Granular gamma-cyhalothrin 0.05% This product will not kill grubs at any rate. This product was tested by MSU for grub control in 2006 and gave identical results as the untreated plots.


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## ctrav

Not only did I read but I saved a copy of the MSU article! @g-man I had seen this article but couldn't locate it...thanks for coming to the rescue!!


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## Guest

I have a new house that I moved into one year ago.

It definitely has had a grub problem and many other lawn problems when I moved in, mostly dead spots, thatch, weeds, crabgrass, and ant infestations on a backyard tree.

I sprayed the ants once. Put down Scott's grubex early June last year. Have enough grubex leftover to use that on the front yard this year.

Bought two bags of Bayer advanced 24 hour grub killer this week. I was going to year the whole yard with that and consider the yard good for grub treatments until next year.

Thoughts?


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## ctrav

macdawg said:


> I have a new house that I moved into one year ago.
> 
> It definitely has had a grub problem and many other lawn problems when I moved in, mostly dead spots, thatch, weeds, crabgrass, and ant infestations on a backyard tree.
> 
> I sprayed the ants once. Put down Scott's grubex early June last year. Have enough grubex leftover to use that on the front yard this year.
> 
> Bought two bags of Bayer advanced 24 hour grub killer this week. I was going to year the whole yard with that and consider the yard good for grub treatments until next year.
> 
> Thoughts?


Good plan from what I can tell. Plus reading this has been helpful for me...

https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/how_to_choose_and_when_to_apply_grub_control_products_for_your_lawn

The summary and available products towards the end of the article are good!

Also found this article from your neck of the woods...

https://ipm.missouri.edu/MEG/2011/6/White-grubs-and-other-lawn-insects/


----------



## thegrassisgreener

Will Talstar work for grubs if sprayed into the lawn's soil?


----------



## g-man

No. The first post on this thread has the info on what works.


----------



## TulsaFan

Greendoc said:


> Dylox.


Does the liquid version work any better/worse than the granular version? It would be a lot cheaper per app to buy the liquid version although there is the upfront cost.


----------



## Greendoc

Liquid can work great. But, it is for irrigated areas. Water before applying, get the grass moist. Spray, then water in. I do not use granules for anything because I am dealing with reel low grass on irrigation.


----------



## TulsaFan

Greendoc said:


> Liquid can work great. But, it is for irrigated areas. Water before applying, get the grass moist. Spray, then water in. I do not use granules for anything because I am dealing with reel low grass on irrigation.


Thank you! :thumbup:

Do you pre-water before most liquid applications?


----------



## Greendoc

Only for the ones that need to get into the soil. Imidacloprid yes. Soil correctives yes. Acids yes. 
Not for anything that needs to stay on leaves to work properly


----------



## TulsaFan

Again, Thank You!!! :thumbup:


----------



## ZachUA

Last night I was leaving the house and when my lights shined on the lawn I saw a lot of white moths flying around. Being that it's June 25th, what should I do?


----------



## g-man

@uts bump.


----------



## uts

g-man said:


> @uts bump.


Thank you for this!


----------



## kds

Can someone clarify GrubEx for me?

According to the SDS, the ingredients are Titanium oxide and 2-Pyrrolidinone, 1-methyl-. I don't see these on the MSU article in the first post.

I found a grub in one of my soil samples this year, and it explains why some parts of my lawn struggle every year no matter what I did.

The MSU article also says curative treatments are not as effective as preventative treatments, so I'm also not clear on whether I should still plan for a curative or a preventative in the next couple of weeks.


----------



## kds

kds said:


> Can someone clarify GrubEx for me?
> 
> According to the SDS, the ingredients are Titanium oxide and 2-Pyrrolidinone, 1-methyl-. I don't see these on the MSU article in the first post.
> 
> I found a grub in one of my soil samples this year, and it explains why some parts of my lawn struggle every year no matter what I did.
> 
> The MSU article also says curative treatments are not as effective as preventative treatments, so I'm also not clear on whether I should still plan for a curative or a preventative in the next couple of weeks.


Anyone have an idea on this? The MSU article is referenced a lot in this thread, and so is GrubEx, but those two items seem to be exclusive of each other.


----------



## FlaDave

kds said:


> kds said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone clarify GrubEx for me?
> 
> According to the SDS, the ingredients are Titanium oxide and 2-Pyrrolidinone, 1-methyl-. I don't see these on the MSU article in the first post.
> 
> I found a grub in one of my soil samples this year, and it explains why some parts of my lawn struggle every year no matter what I did.
> 
> The MSU article also says curative treatments are not as effective as preventative treatments, so I'm also not clear on whether I should still plan for a curative or a preventative in the next couple of weeks.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have an idea on this? The MSU article is referenced a lot in this thread, and so is GrubEx, but those two items seem to be exclusive of each other.
Click to expand...

I think that is the old grubex. The new grubex is chlorantraniliprole. This is the one you want to apply around mid apr as preventative.


----------



## g-man

The new GrubEx has a small 2 next to the X. I don't think you can buy the old one any more. The new has been out for a while now.


----------



## Kissfromnick

Im using CedarCure for many years. Property perimeter 5 treatments per season and 3 treatments over the entire lawn. It's give me total insect free life around house. The local company want $1800 per season To do same work. Usually materials cost me around $150 for season.


----------



## g-man

FYI It is getting close for grub control timing.


----------



## Kissfromnick

Replace a couple patches on backyard lawn with a sad last Saturday and my biggest surprise was grubs is already there.


----------



## LoveMyLawn

Can you do a Dylox and Scotts GrubX control at the same time? Something to kill the ones there and a preventative. Replaced a couple Hydrangeas yesterday and there were a couple grubs in the area I was digging.


----------



## jingobah

GrubX is not available in NY, I probably asked this question last year but, what are the alternative products that do what GrubX does?


----------



## Kissfromnick

jingobah said:


> GrubX is not available in NY, I probably asked this question last year but, what are the alternative products that do what GrubX does?


Try merit 0.5 G you never would be sorry.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

LoveMyLawn said:


> Can you do a Dylox and Scotts GrubX control at the same time? Something to kill the ones there and a preventative. Replaced a couple Hydrangeas yesterday and there were a couple grubs in the area I was digging.


I don't see why not. GrubEx is a little slower to kill, especially for the adults. I spread Dylox twice a year and GrubEx once.


----------



## jingobah

Kissfromnick said:


> jingobah said:
> 
> 
> 
> GrubX is not available in NY, I probably asked this question last year but, what are the alternative products that do what GrubX does?
> 
> 
> 
> Try merit 0.5 G you never would be sorry.
Click to expand...

Thank you, will give it a try


----------



## jingobah

Seems Merit is also not for sale in or shipped to NY for homeowners/ DIY'ers


----------



## nikmasteed

How much immediate watering-in does GrubEx need? I put it down a few days ago, the day before 2 straight days of washouts were forecasted. We only ended up getting one heavy storm come thru, which probably did the trick, but since I've got it in my mind that GrubEx takes longer to be watered in, should I be thinking about pulling the hose out this weekend?

Also, for those seeing some grubs (I'm seeing them too) my understanding is that they do most of their damage in the summer as the new ones feed. I'm not sweating it much over the ones I see right now.


----------



## Matthew_73

Mightyquinn said:


> I spray Imidacloprid (ImidaPRO 2SC) every 3 months to keep them under control.


Interested in this. What product would alleviate bug and spiders? and Grubs.. This or Grub Ex or something else Lotta trees and some spider and ant issues as well...


----------



## Mightyquinn

For ants and spiders you would need something with Bifenthrin to control those. There are a lot of options out there depending on what you are wanting to accomplish.


----------



## Matthew_73

Mightyquinn said:


> For ants and spiders you would need something with Bifenthrin to control those. There are a lot of options out there depending on what you are wanting to accomplish.


most likely I'll us grubx and look at those for spiders and ants


----------



## Scagfreedom48z+

I've heard that when spraying Dylox, the water PH needs to be below 5 in order to increase the effectiveness. Is this true? I have citric acid to drop the PH.


----------



## Baretta

Has anyone tried the new Scotts Grub B gone? Suggests 3 applications, that gets pretty expensive at least here in Canada running $70 for 3000 sq ft bag.


----------



## Brou

I noticed a grub while digging in the lawn this morning. Are there any negatives from using Grub Ex in July?

The bag says it can be applied early summer. Summer is technically only 12 days old, so...

Or maybe Spectrcide Triazicide? It has better reviews than Grub Ex and says to apply in July.


----------



## Spammage

@Kamauxx if the AI is chlorantraniliprole, then it should be put down much earlier in the season (think mid to late April). Imidacloprid can go down now. The Spectracide product will not control grubs.


----------



## Brou

Thanks @spammage. Do you have a recommendation for a product with imidacloprid?

Will something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DKEOK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fjj.Eb9AJFFQ9


----------



## Spammage

Kamauxx said:


> Thanks @spammage. Do you have a recommendation for a product with imidacloprid?
> 
> Will something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DKEOK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fjj.Eb9AJFFQ9


Yep. :thumbup:


----------



## NCLawnLady

Hi all,

I've read through all of this now and am now even more confused &#129335;&#127995;‍♀

I'm new to lawn treatments. All I know is that I treated for grubs back in April and now that they've hatched my garden and flowers are destroyed. Last year they destroyed my lawn so this year we invested $6000 in killing our lawn, digging it all up and putting down new Bermuda seed and I'll be darn if some little bugs destroy it again! Not only that but the mole tunnels were too numerous to count!

Since the full grown bettles are here and having a field day they are also laying eggs, right?

I want to kill the eggs. I will treat again in the fall and spring but I need to have targeted products for each life cycle, correct? Whatever I use I need, in good conscience, to protect bees as much as possible.

I have just under 10k sq ft of lawn to treat to kill eggs. This is the product I should use now?

BioAdvanced 700288B Complete Insect Killer for Soil & Turf, Lawn and Yard Bug Killer, Granules, 10-Pounds https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BPD60A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_eB8bFb2P89ZPK

Also, does heat come into play with this like it does weed control products? It's up to 90 almost daily right now and my large lawn has no irrigation but I put down sprinklers almost 8 hours a day right now for the newish seed (6 weeks old now an looks fabulous!). I'm fanatical about my lawn right now so nothing is out of bounds as far as the effort I need to put in, just the $$ &#129315;


----------



## NCLawnLady

And to bump this up as I want to go to the store to buy stuff tomorrow morning...

It's very frustrating to search google and only find "natural" and "safe" methods for killing grubs. I'm all for natural and safe but I am more wanting EFFECTIVE and sadly they are not synonymous!

So any help is appreciated!


----------



## Spammage

@NCLawnLady treatment for grubs is about breaking the cycle. The grubs are typically only susceptible to pesticides in the first instar. This is a good time of year to treat with imidacloprid, which is systemic. There are other options like chlorantraniliprole which should be put down in late April to early May, or dylox which will kill grubs past the first instar, but typically only about 20-25% of them.


----------



## NCLawnLady

Spammage said:


> @NCLawnLady treatment for grubs is about breaking the cycle. The grubs are typically only susceptible to pesticides in the first instar. This is a good time of year to treat with imidacloprid, which is systemic. There are other options like chlorantraniliprole which should be put down in late April to early May, or dylox which will kill grubs past the first instar, but typically only about 20-25% of them.


Thanks @Spammage ! Isn't the first instar now? Eggs will be hatching now. In that case which products contain Imidacloprid?


----------



## Spammage

@NCLawnLady yes, this is typically when the eggs will be hatching. As far as imidacloprid, I use Dominion 2L, but you won't find it at the big box stores. Your Bayer product might be right, but it wasn't shown on the picture.

"Dominion 2L, Dominion 2L Termiticide Insecticide Concentrate - Free Shipping" https://www.domyown.com/dominion-2l-termiticide-concentrate-p-1223.html


----------



## g-man

@NCLawnLady go to any bug box store. I recommend you buy a bag product.

Look for something that says grub preventive (active ingredient imidacloprid). This one is to kill and prevent the babies the adults just deposited in the soil. This products last months in the soil.

If you are having dead areas in the lawn due to grubs, then you want to add a 24hr killer. It will be a different bag. It last a few days in the soil, so only use it if they are killing the grass.

Both products need to be watered in.

Lastly, if you have beetle problems eating your flowers, get a trap. Try to set it in the corner of the property, away from the garden. The trap will grab the ones in your property and your neighbors.


----------



## NCLawnLady

g-man said:


> @NCLawnLady go to any bug box store. I recommend you buy a bag product.
> 
> Look for something that says grub preventive (active ingredient imidacloprid). This one is to kill and prevent the babies the adults just deposited in the soil. This products last months in the soil.
> 
> If you are having dead areas in the lawn due to grubs, then you want to add a 24hr killer. It will be a different bag. It last a few days in the soil, so only use it if they are killing the grass.
> 
> Both products need to be watered in.
> 
> Lastly, if you have beetle problems eating your flowers, get a trap. Try to set it in the corner of the property, away from the garden. The trap will grab the ones in your property and your neighbors.


Thanks @g-man ! I put down the bioadvanced yesterday and watered it in. I don't have a problem with grubs eating the new lawn but did last year so I won't put down anything else until the end of September to get the 2nd instar

I really appreciate the advice! Now I just have to get rid of the moles (scissor traps haven't worked so far) and I'll have a shot at a nice lawn next year!


----------



## ionicatoms

Hey guys,

I can't tell if I'm over reacting or what, so please give your opinion. Found sod webworms at the boundary of my property (eating their way into my lawn) last night; confirmed by visual inspection of grass and worms. I can't get my pest control company out until tomorrow, but I purchased a bag of Bioadvanced 24hr grub killer plus today while on lunch. It contains Trichlorfon (dylox) 9.3%.

Label: https://www.bioadvanced.com/sites/d...9c7d0eb0502422c4a9799a2d3923eb161fc42f038.pdf

My pest control company said they don't want me to treat it tonight because the label says something about waiting 7 days in between applications (of the same product). They didn't tell me what they plan to treat with, but they normally come every 3 months to spray the lawn. Draw your own conclusions.

Does anybody here think I'd be crazy/stupid to go ahead and treat my one problem spot at the label rate tonight and let the pest control company do their normal thing tomorrow?


----------



## Burnie

Granular does not work good on worms as the eat the blades of the grass, if they are coming tomorrow, just let them do their thing. Worms only eat the blades, once treated the grass will recover.


----------



## ionicatoms

@Burnie

I decided not to apply/water and just wait like you advised.

Here's a picture of the sod webworm damage.


----------



## ionicatoms

@Burnie, others,

I'm still finding sod webworms 6 nights after application of Talstar. Anybody know if this is normal?


----------



## Burnie

Not normal. As long as it didn't rain and wash the chemical off the blades, the worms should have died. I use Bifen XTS, same active ingredient as Talstar, and don't have a problem getting rid of them with 1 treatment, as long as it does not rain, which we have had 14 days in a row as of yesterday. I would say it needs sprayed again.


----------



## ionicatoms

Thanks for the input, @Burnie. I am seeing a reduction in the count of sod webworms per sq.ft. I put more details about my progress in my journal. I guess I will be calling the pest control company on Monday.


----------



## Glen_Cove_5511

I just saw a few grubs in my lawn yesterday. I have these two products. Which would be best to apply? Thanks!


----------



## ionicatoms

@Glen_Cove_5511 I would go with the Triazicide because it is labeled for "Above & Below Ground".

See https://www.spectracide.com/Product...azicide-Insect-Killer-For-Lawns-Granules.aspx for details.


----------



## Glen_Cove_5511

ionicatoms said:


> @Glen_Cove_5511 I would go with the Triazicide because it is labeled for "Above & Below Ground".
> 
> See https://www.spectracide.com/Product...azicide-Insect-Killer-For-Lawns-Granules.aspx for details.


Thanks @ionicatoms! That's what I'll do.


----------



## ken-n-nancy

ionicatoms said:


> @Glen_Cove_5511 I would go with the Triazicide because it is labeled for "Above & Below Ground".
> 
> See https://www.spectracide.com/Product...azicide-Insect-Killer-For-Lawns-Granules.aspx for details.





Glen_Cove_5511 said:


> Thanks @ionicatoms! That's what I'll do.


Before you purchase Triazicide to kill grubs, I highly suggest you read the following paragraphs from the annual Michigan State University Grub Article. Please go to the link. You will find it to be an informative article.

The "TL;DR" is that "*Triazicide will not control grubs*."

The relevant paragraphs:



Michigan State University Annual Grub Article said:


> Do not use products containing ONLY lambda-cyhalothrin, gamma-cyhalothrin, bifenthrin, deltamethrin, cyfluthrin or permethrin for grub control. Products containing only these ingredients will not work for grub control because the active ingredient binds with organic material and will not move down to where the grubs are feeding. These products work well for above-ground feeding insects that live on the grass leaves or soil surface, but not for insects that feed on the roots. At one garden center a clerk showed us two products, one containing only permethrin and one containing only bifenthrin, when we asked for products to control grubs. Neither of the products listed grubs on the label printed on the bag and neither of the products would have controlled grubs.
> 
> There are several products on the market that contain a combination of one of the preventive compounds and one of the above listed insecticides that "do not work on grubs." The preventive ingredient will make it an effective choice for grub control.
> 
> There is a widely sold trade name called Triazicide from Spectrum that lists grubs on the label and states it will control insects above or below ground and has a picture of a grub on the front of the bag. It contains only lambda-cyhalothrin or gamma-cyhalothrin. Triazicide will not control grubs. Carefully check the label for ingredients. There was a product available in years past from Spectrum that contained imidacloprid, but I did not see any in my visits the last two years (2016 and 2017).


@Glen_Cove_5511, if you still have questions about which product to use after reading the MSU article, please ask.

However, for an active infestation of grubs, you will need a *curative* product. GrubEx is an excellent *preventative* product, which you should have already applied this season to prevent grub problems in the summer of 2021. However, if you have a current infestation, you'll need to apply a curative product now; applying GrubEx now won't be effective for a current grub problem.

In short, you need a different product than either of those you showed in your picture.


----------



## Glen_Cove_5511

Thanks @ken-n-nancy. Great info! Looks like I'll hang onto the Scott's GrubEx so I can apply it next Spring. I'll return the Triazicide. I'll look for one of the curative products at Lowe's or Home Depot. I really appreciate the advice and info.


----------



## ionicatoms

Good information. I used BioAdvanced 24hr Grub Killer Plus - Granular trichlorfon 9.3% recently to help kill sod webworms. I see this product is listed on the MSU website for a curative purposes.


----------



## ionicatoms

In another week or so, I'm going to try out Acelepryn. As far as I can tell it's just concentrated liquid GrubEx. I'm hoping this application will carry me through the end of the summer with no more problems from sod webworm.

It could be a good option if, like me, you missed your granular application of GrubEx earlier in the year. I'm having a pest control company come spray it because it's too expensive to buy a whole bottle.


----------



## rjjrmiller

I found an Imidacloprid product called Zenith75 and its a fair price and will last me my lifetime with my 4.5k sq ft of lawn and I apply it liberally. 
I had trees that imidacloprid saved and Ill.spray it more.often as the instar for grub larvae is a month away.
It works and will last most.homeowners a decade or more.
I got it at seedworldusa


----------



## SodFace

rjjrmiller said:


> I found an Imidacloprid product called Zenith75 and its a fair price and will last me my lifetime with my 4.5k sq ft of lawn and I apply it liberally.
> I had trees that imidacloprid saved and Ill.spray it more.often as the instar for grub larvae is a month away.
> It works and will last most.homeowners a decade or more.
> I got it at seedworldusa


Good find! $29 usd for 4 packets which do 11k of lawn each! https://www.seedworldusa.com/products/zenith-75-wsp-insecticide Guess I'll be ordering for next summer application as I am just seeing beetles all around for the first time this summer.

Do you find treating in recommended June-July timeframe works well in our climate?


----------



## turfnsurf

ken-n-nancy said:


> However, for an active infestation of grubs, you will need a *curative* product. GrubEx is an excellent *preventative* product, which you should have already applied this season to prevent grub problems in the summer of 2021. However, if you have a current infestation, you'll need to apply a curative product now; applying GrubEx now won't be effective for a current grub problem.


@ken-n-nancy I have never noticed any grubs, although I've had a landscape company treat for them.

Are you saying that if GrubEx was applied this past spring, that it would prevent grub problems _next _summer? Just clarifying because I'd read that you should apply GrubEx (chlorantraniliprole)in the spring.


----------



## ken-n-nancy

turfnsurf said:


> ken-n-nancy said:
> 
> 
> 
> However, for an active infestation of grubs, you will need a *curative* product. GrubEx is an excellent *preventative* product, which you should have already applied this season to prevent grub problems in the summer of 2021. However, if you have a current infestation, you'll need to apply a curative product now; applying GrubEx now won't be effective for a current grub problem.
> 
> 
> 
> @ken-n-nancy I have never noticed any grubs, although I've had a landscape company treat for them.
> 
> Are you saying that if GrubEx was applied this past spring, that it would prevent grub problems _next _summer? Just clarifying because I'd read that you should apply GrubEx (chlorantraniliprole)in the spring.
Click to expand...

Yes, you are correct, GrubEx (chlorantraniliprole) should be applied in the spring. It is best applied in late April or May.

However, due to being a preventative product, the time of the year in which that late April or May application really benefits the lawn is in the fall of the current year through about July of the *next year*. But don't just take my word for it, read the article from the Michigan State University site:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/how_to_choose_and_when_to_apply_grub_control_products_for_your_lawn

The reason for this is because chlorantraniliprole only kills the immature grubs. Chlorantraniliprole isn't strong enough to kill mature grubs.

The grub lifecycle (Japanese beetles) is that the eggs are laid mostly in July and August by adult beetles in grassy soil, preferably moist grassy soil. Those eggs then hatch about 2 weeks later, and become baby grubs which start feeding on the roots of the grass in August and continuing through the fall. By late October or November, the grubs burrow deeper into the soil, where they overwinter as medium-sized grubs. In the spring, the grubs do more feeding on roots of the grass until late June, when they turn into pupae (the beetle equivalent of a moth's cacoon) and then hatch out as Japanese beetles a couple weeks later.

When chlorantraniliprole is applied in April or May, it won't actually kill off most of the half-mature grubs in the soil that overwintered from the prior year. Those grubs will still feed on the roots of the grass in the spring but won't ingest enough of the insecticide to be killed and will instead hatch into beetles in June or July. Rather, the chlorantraniliprole will kill the baby grubs that hatch in July, August, and September, breaking the lifecycle for the future.

It turns out that the presence of baby grubs in a lawn in September and October is usually well-tolerated by the lawn, as unless it is a really drastic infestation, the baby grubs don't eat enough roots to kill off the grass in the fall, when there is usually ample rainfall in northern climates and the temperatures are cooler. However, the medium-sized to ready-to-pupate grubs in May and June eat more grass roots and are destroying the roots just as the summer heat is setting in for June and July.

When you see dead patches from grub damage in July, it is actually from the grubs that were laid as eggs the prior July or August, overwintered as grubs (but didn't do enough damage to the lawn in the fall to be noticed) and then were kind of unnoticed in the spring, as moisture was plentiful and the grass was growing fast, but then result in dead grass in July after the diminished roots aren't enough to get the grass through the summer heat of June and July.

Chlorantraniliprole isn't very mobile in the soil, so it needs to be applied (and watered in) in April or May in order to get down into the grass root depth by July or August when the new eggs are hatching and the baby grubs are susceptible to the insecticide. Imidacloprid is more mobile in the soil, and can be applied in June with the same results. However, imidacloprid is potentially damaging to other insects, particularly bees, so chlorantraniliprole is now preferred even though it requires more advance planning.

There are many good web sites with information on the grub life cycle. Such an article from MSU is at https://www.canr.msu.edu/uploads/resources/pdfs/michigan_blueberry_facts_-_japanese_beetle_(e2845).pdf


----------



## rjjrmiller

SodFace said:


> rjjrmiller said:
> 
> 
> 
> I found an Imidacloprid product called Zenith75 and its a fair price and will last me my lifetime with my 4.5k sq ft of lawn and I apply it liberally.
> I had trees that imidacloprid saved and Ill.spray it more.often as the instar for grub larvae is a month away.
> It works and will last most.homeowners a decade or more.
> I got it at seedworldusa
> 
> 
> 
> Good find! $29 usd for 4 packets which do 11k of lawn each! https://www.seedworldusa.com/products/zenith-75-wsp-insecticide Guess I'll be ordering for next summer application as I am just seeing beetles all around for the first time this summer.
> 
> Do you find treating in recommended June-July timeframe works well in our climate?
Click to expand...

Its ny new home, so after having skunks destroy my lawn looking for grubs I've only got a chance to use it 1 full year and it worked perfectly...this year should be the same.
Ill admit last year i was really pissed off about the damage I applied it in May June and July...also in early and mid July I hose end sprayed kelp and humic acid and added imidacloprid Zenith75 medium label rate to the mix for the front lawn.
So i did over apply a little. The lawn didnt appear stressed it looked healthy and not a single grub qas spotted and zero skunk damage.
This year I applied less but after seeing hkw well it worked Im sure Im covered.
My area is Montreal Canada, we still see Japanese beetles but the baby grubs are probably not long off.


----------



## FoldsPocketAces

Is the first instar window still open to put down some imidacloprid (Merit)? I just got it in, and I'm in California so apparently I can't order Trichlorfon or Carbaryl as a curative.


----------



## ken-n-nancy

FoldsPocketAces said:


> Is the first instar window still open to put down some imidacloprid (Merit)? I just got it in, and I'm in California so apparently I can't order Trichlorfon or Carbaryl as a curative.


Hmm. My first reaction is that applying imidacloprid (Merit) now might still be effective against the newly-hatched grubs. It gets down into the soil much more quickly than chlorantraniliprole, so I think applying it would definitely be better than nothing. Every day matters at this point, though. Bakersfield is far enough into southern California that the grubs won't be heading deep into the soil for winter hibernation any time soon (if ever?). Your lawn is also small enough that you won't need very much of it, so the cost won't be a big issue.

When applying imidacloprid be careful to avoid applying it anywhere there are flowering plants, to avoid damaging the populations of desirable pollinators (e.g. bees). Particularly avoid areas that have flowering clover, please.


----------



## FoldsPocketAces

ken-n-nancy said:


> FoldsPocketAces said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is the first instar window still open to put down some imidacloprid (Merit)? I just got it in, and I'm in California so apparently I can't order Trichlorfon or Carbaryl as a curative.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm. My first reaction is that applying imidacloprid (Merit) now might still be effective against the newly-hatched grubs. It gets down into the soil much more quickly than chlorantraniliprole, so I think applying it would definitely be better than nothing. Every day matters at this point, though. Bakersfield is far enough into southern California that the grubs won't be heading deep into the soil for winter hibernation any time soon (if ever?). Your lawn is also small enough that you won't need very much of it, so the cost won't be a big issue.
> 
> When applying imidacloprid be careful to avoid applying it anywhere there are flowering plants, to avoid damaging the populations of desirable pollinators (e.g. bees). Particularly avoid areas that have flowering clover, please.
Click to expand...

10-4 thank you. I also may or may not have recently found some Dylox and is being shipped to me 😬


----------



## g-man

@Chase82814 the first post has an article with options. You should be able to find a bag at home Depot/Lowe's. You want the stuff that says 24hr kill (check the active ingredient against the article).


----------



## Chase82814

g-man said:


> @Chase82814 the first post has an article with options. You should be able to find a bag at home Depot/Lowe's. You want the stuff that says 24hr kill (check the active ingredient against the article).


Thanks for the response. I bought and put some down today.


----------



## Cincinnati guy

Is merit meant to be preventive or can I use it to kill the active grubs in the lawn?

How can I repair the damage they have done?


----------



## ken-n-nancy

Cincinnati guy said:


> Is merit meant to be preventive or can I use it to kill the active grubs in the lawn?
> 
> How can I repair the damage they have done?


Merit (imidacloprid) is a preventative product. Applying it now will probably *not* be sufficient to kill the rapidly-growing grubs that hatched back in early August. I think you'll need to use a curative product instead if you have an active grub problem.

See the MSU article (which should be required reading for anybody with a grub issue) for more details: How to choose and when to apply grub control products for your lawn.

Getting a curative product down now will prevent further damage, but won't heal the damage that has been done. Making sure the lawn is watered sufficiently for the reduced roots will help recovery. Fall is the time of year for cool season lawns to recover -- read the Cool Season Lawn Guide and the Fall Nitrogen Blitz article for advice. There isn't anything else special to do to recover from grub damage.

I'd highly recommend applying a preventative next spring -- either chlorantraniliprole (GrubEx) or imidacloprid (Merit) at the appropriate time for each product.


----------



## RVAGuy

I'm not understanding why I'm not seeing more posts about Milky Spore https://www.arbico-organics.com/product/milky-spore-granular-bacillus-popillae/organic-lawn-care. You use it three times a year for two years and you get protection for up to ten years. Plus it doesn't kill all of the good insects and is completely safe for animals and humans. It gets rave reviews.

I'm going to put some down Friday to start the regimen. I didn't have grub damage before, but people have used it curatively with good results from what I've read.


----------



## cglarsen

Mightyquinn said:


> I spray Imidacloprid (ImidaPRO 2SC) every 3 months to keep them under control.


Are you still applying this quarterly? Which months do you like to spray it? I had lots of insect damage this year without treatment.


----------



## Mightyquinn

cglarsen said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I spray Imidacloprid (ImidaPRO 2SC) every 3 months to keep them under control.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you still applying this quarterly? Which months do you like to spray it? I had lots of insect damage this year without treatment.
Click to expand...

Yes, I apply it every 3 months during the growing season (April, July, October) at .5 oz/M. I have never had any issues with bugs destroying the lawn. I also apply Permethrin or Bifen once a month too.


----------



## cglarsen

@Mightyquinn perfect. I'm going to combo those two as well next season. Probably not worth spraying anymore this year I reckon.


----------



## mjh648

does anyone worry about grubs in the flower beds? I'm obviously digging around in there more than my lawn but I always seem to find at least 1-2 grubs when I'm planting or pulling stuff out.

Also the MSU article states grub prevention with Grubex (chlorantraniliprole) is approx 65-80% whereas other pesticides "imidacloprid, thiamethoxam or clothianidin will consistently reduce 75-100% of the grubs"

Is Grubex still the preferred method even though it's not as effective?


----------



## ionicatoms

mjh648 said:


> Is Grubex still the preferred method even though it's not as effective?


It is for me. It's about management and mitigation while avoiding undesirable side effects.


----------



## ken-n-nancy

mjh648 said:


> Is Grubex still the preferred method even though it's not as effective?


It is for me, too. Chlorantraniliprole (the AI in GrubEx) also has a very long half-life, so it will tend to build up in the soil from year to year. Accordingly, it will give increased effectiveness after a few years of regular applications at the normal "bag rate."


----------



## Michael58

Is Scotts GrubEx required to be watered in immediately or can it sit for several days before being watered in with about 1" of water?


----------



## ionicatoms

Michael58 said:


> Is Scotts GrubEx required to be watered in immediately or can it sit for several days before being watered in with about 1" of water?


You don't have to water it in right away, but it seems like a good idea to put some amount of water on it before mowing. Just my 2 cents.


----------



## turfnsurf

I read the MSU article and I intend to use GrubEx in the next few days.

According to the article, the preventatives (specifically chlorantraniliprole) will kill the new hatched grubs in the summer/fall. That makes sense.

What I don't get is why they say that curatives kill all life cycles of grubs, yet their recommendation for Sevin is to apply it during the fall. It would seem to me that one would want to kill the pre-existing mature grubs as well without waiting until after the current growing season to do it.

If it's a shortcoming of the Sevin option, then I would imagine that Bayer would be the more ideal product, since I can't imagine any reason why someone would let the existing grubs go untreated all the way until the end of the season.


----------



## mjh648

I think the problem is the grubs in the spring are either too big to kill or too far in the ground for an insecticide to do anything. Fall they have at least matured enough to where grubex won't do anything to them so they recommend a different MOA.


----------



## turfnsurf

mjh648 said:


> I think the problem is the grubs in the spring are either too big to kill or too far in the ground for an insecticide to do anything. Fall they have at least matured enough to where grubex won't do anything to them so they recommend a different MOA.


What you're saying makes sense. And if Bayer was suggested to be used during the fall, I would have no confusion.

I am curious why Sevin and Bayer are both curatives, but one can seemingly be applied during the spring (Bayer) but Sevin needs to be applied during the fall.

ETA:

These Scotts GrubEx bags are different, and if something changed, I want to get the one that is recommended. Just wanted to see which one people are using before I pull the trigger.

https://www.domyown.com/scotts-grubex-p-16137.html
https://www.amazon.com/Scotts-GrubEx-Preventer-Japanese-Packaging/dp/B0050DW2M6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=4RMOFB84JQZF&dchild=1&keywords=scotts+grub+ex&qid=1618118453&sprefix=scotts+grub%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-5


----------



## Buster

I put my GrubEx down this weekend. Interestingly, we're already seeing June Bugs emerge! And it's early Apr! Last year they didn't emerge until May/June.

I hope the GrubEx does it's job for the next few months, last year I had quite a bit of damage.


----------



## UltimateLawn

I also saw a June Bug (in DFW) dead on my driveway already! Probably due to the Demand CS I sprayed about a week ago. 
I thought for sure we would have a delay with the very cold winter. Hate to drop GrubEx as I love the local earthworms. I'm planning on spraying imidacloprid in June/July for the next season. I am starting to wonder if the yellowing in my StAug might be due to grubs. I'm not seeing root weakening, so I'm hoping something else.


----------



## ionicatoms

UltimateLawn said:


> Hate to drop GrubEx as I love the local earthworms.


I'm under the impression that GrubEx is safe for earthworms. Is that a disputed claim?


----------



## UltimateLawn

@ionicatoms, I heard that imidacloprid works systematically with the grass roots while GrubEx is a contact herbicide. I'm not sure, but I was of the mindset that a contact pesticide has a greater impact on local earthworm populations.

Anyone?


----------



## Ware

UltimateLawn said:


> @ionicatoms, I heard that imidacloprid works systematically with the grass roots while GrubEx is a contact herbicide. I'm not sure, but I was of the mindset that a contact pesticide has a greater impact on local earthworm populations.
> 
> Anyone?


When applied at label rates, GrubEx does not kill earthworms.


----------



## mjh648

From my quick research awhile ago Imidacloprid was pretty toxic towards earthworms. Same with thiophanate-methyl (Clearys). Not sure about Grubex (Chlorantraniliprole).


----------



## ken-n-nancy

turfnsurf said:


> These Scotts GrubEx bags are different, and if something changed, I want to get the one that is recommended. Just wanted to see which one people are using before I pull the trigger.
> 
> https://www.domyown.com/scotts-grubex-p-16137.html
> https://www.amazon.com/Scotts-GrubEx-Preventer-Japanese-Packaging/dp/B0050DW2M6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=4RMOFB84JQZF&dchild=1&keywords=scotts+grub+ex&qid=1618118453&sprefix=scotts+grub%2Caps%2C175&sr=8-5


Both of those bags appear to be for Scotts GrubEx1, which has an active ingredient of 0.08% chlorantraniliprole. Scotts changed the appearance of the bags a couple years ago, but those both appear to be the same product. The way to be sure is to read the portion of the label which indicates the active ingredient. The latest formulation of GrubEx, which is actually written as "GrubEx1" has 0.08% chlorantraniliprole as the AI.



ionicatoms said:


> UltimateLawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hate to drop GrubEx as I love the local earthworms.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm under the impression that GrubEx is safe for earthworms. Is that a disputed claim?
Click to expand...

The short answer is that the current formulation of Scotts GrubEx1, which uses 0.08% chlorantraniliprole as the active ingredient, is generally safe for earthworms and honeybees when applied at label rates. That was not true for some prior varieties of Scotts GrubEx. More details below...

Historically, one does need to be aware that the formulation (specifically, the active ingredient) of Scotts "GrubEx" has changed over the years, so reading old articles, particularly those that just refer to "GrubEx" without specifying the active ingredient that was in the product at the time can give conflicting information.

I am aware of at least three different formulations of "GrubEx" over the past 20 years. Scotts seeks to have "GrubEx" simply be their brand name for grub killer -- the name has market recognition as a quality product, so they want to keep that name recognition yet retain the flexibility to change the active ingredient for various other reasons.

The only "GrubEx" product I've seen marketed in the last few years is what is also known as "GrubEx1" which was previously known as "GrubEx III" and uses the active ingredient of 0.08% chlorantraniliprole. (See EPA Labels for GrubEx III, which has an alternate brand name of GrubEx 1.) Primary appeal of this product is that it is generally regarded as being much safer for bees and earthworms than prior formulations. This active ingredient is slow-acting and is less toxic than prior AIs, but it has a long residual (it is slow to break down in the environment, so it lasts a long time). Therefore, it should be applied early in the year to ensure it has time to be dispersed in the soil solution and kill grubs at their most vulnerable stage, that is as young grubs that have recently-hatched. Optimum time of application in northern states appears to be late April and early May to kill newly-hatched grubs in July.

The prior "GrubEx II Season-Long Grub Killer" product, which I don't think has been manufactured since about 2014 (although I'm not sure about this) used an active ingredient of 0.2% imidacloprid. (See the EPA label registration for GrubEx II.)Scientific studies showed imidacloprid to be harmful to earthworms and imidacloprid was highly implicated in being hazardous to bees, too. Up until about 3-5 years ago, one could sometimes find old bags of the GrubEx II Season-Long Grub Killer product in some stores, presumably using up old stock that had come out of a warehouse who-knows-where, but I haven't seen any of the old bags in quite some time.

Even before that, there was an earlier "GrubEx" product which used 1.5% Halofenozide as the active ingredient. (See 1999 EPA Registration for Scotts GrubEx.) That formulation disappeared from the market about 15 years ago. I don't know what the reason was for the change - whether it was due to product safety concerns, or cheaper formulations, or greater effectiveness, or something else...


----------



## mjh648

@ken-n-nancy great info thanks!


----------



## Olkutty

So, it's May 19th in Missouri.. Did I miss my window on grub control this year? I totally had a brain fart and forgot to incorporate it into my spring plan. &#129396;


----------



## frekwentflier

Olkutty said:


> So, it's May 19th in Missouri.. Did I miss my window on grub control this year? I totally had a brain fart and forgot to incorporate it into my spring plan. 🥴


According to the first post, any time between mid-April and May 30 is OK. I just put my Grubex app down today. I hope it's not too late. I'll get a stronger killer product if needed.


----------



## Jagermeister

Mightyquinn said:


> I've had good success with it even after an infestation. All I know is that I spray that stuff down and grubs come crawling out of the ground after irrigation or rainfall.


@Mightyquinn I didn't get a preventative down this year (in north Atlanta). I have read you need to have Imidacloprid down in April or May in the SE. Is late June too late for this or should I apply a curative product?

Also, do you apply as a foliar spray or soil? Which Teejet nozzles? Thanks!


----------



## Mightyquinn

I spray the Imidacloprid every 3 months, usually I start in March/April and then go from there and stop in September/October.

I would just do an application now and then again in September and then start back up in March of next year. Imidacloprid needs to be soil applied so an AI nozzle would be best and then watered in shortly after.

I think as long as you do that and keep up with monthly Bifen applications, you should be fine.


----------



## Jagermeister

Mightyquinn said:


> I spray the Imidacloprid every 3 months, usually I start in March/April and then go from there and stop in September/October.
> 
> I would just do an application now and then again in September and then start back up in March of next year. Imidacloprid needs to be soil applied so an AI nozzle would be best and then watered in shortly after.
> 
> I think as long as you do that and keep up with monthly Bifen applications, you should be fine.


Thank you sir!


----------



## g-man

@Chuuurles @davegravy Read the article in this thread.


----------



## Chuuurles

g-man said:


> @Chuuurles @davegravy Read the article in this thread.


Excellent article, thank you !


----------



## Lust4Lawn

I applied .6oz of imidacloprid in early May but this past weekend when I pumped my septic I had 8-12 grubs under the turf above my lid. I was kind of surprised but I have been struggling with other areas of the turf darkening like they are suffering drought stress. I picked up a bag of Bayer 24 hour (Dylox) and plan to spread it tonight and irrigate the following morning and I am due anyways.

There are som many conflicting points on when to apply imidacloprid for proper coverage. I think @Mightyquinn is on to something with the partial apps. My struggle is that the label states apply .6 oz/k for grubs and maximum annual rate is also .6 oz/k. This only leads me back to the conflicting data regarding the application timing.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Lust4Lawn said:


> I applied .6oz of imidacloprid in early May but this past weekend when I pumped my septic I had 8-12 grubs under the turf above my lid. I was kind of surprised but I have been struggling with other areas of the turf darkening like they are suffering drought stress. I picked up a bag of Bayer 24 hour (Dylox) and plan to spread it tonight and irrigate the following morning and I am due anyways.
> 
> There are som many conflicting points on when to apply imidacloprid for proper coverage. I think @Mightyquinn is on to something with the partial apps. My struggle is that the label states apply .6 oz/k for grubs and maximum annual rate is also .6 oz/k. This only leads me back to the conflicting data regarding the application timing.


You are correct in what the label says for Imidacloprid but another member reached out to the manufacturer and asked them about that and said it wouldn't really do any damage doing what I do. I will try and find it as I think it's on here somewhere.

I have been applying it every 3 months for years now with no ill effects that I know of.


----------



## Jeep4life

If I applied Grubex back in the middle of April meaning that it should be nearing the end of its life within a few weeks should I apply anything else to carry me through the end of the season? Or should I just keep an eye out and only apply Dylox or 24hr curative if I notice anything out of the ordinary?


----------



## Darth_V8r

imidacloprid


----------



## Jagermeister

Mightyquinn said:


> I spray the Imidacloprid every 3 months, usually I start in March/April and then go from there and stop in September/October.
> 
> I would just do an application now and then again in September and then start back up in March of next year. Imidacloprid needs to be soil applied so an AI nozzle would be best and then watered in shortly after.
> 
> I think as long as you do that and keep up with monthly Bifen applications, you should be fine.


@Mightyquinn For your monthly Bifen applications, can I also apply preventative fungicide applications? Do you include fert, PGR with your Bifen?


----------



## Mightyquinn

I will add fertilizer occasionally but usually stay away from iron as I've had some bad reactions in past from it but that was with FAS. Never added Fungicide as I tend to spray that separately as I don't want to reduce the efficacy of it. It may not actually do anything just my own OCD about it. Fungicide is not something I spray often so I'm not 100% on what to mix with it.


----------



## Jagermeister

Mightyquinn said:


> I will add fertilizer occasionally but usually stay away from iron as I've had some bad reactions in past from it but that was with FAS. Never added Fungicide as I tend to spray that separately as I don't want to reduce the efficacy of it. It may not actually do anything just my own OCD about it. Fungicide is not something I spray often so I'm not 100% on what to mix with it.


@Mightyquinn Thank you. I meant to ask, for your monthly preventative bifen apps, do you water in or do you let it sit on the canopy? Label recommends watering in for most except worms, etc. As of now, I don't see any insect activity on the canopy.

Or, can you let sit on the grass for 24 hours and then water in to get both types of insects?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Jagermeister said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I will add fertilizer occasionally but usually stay away from iron as I've had some bad reactions in past from it but that was with FAS. Never added Fungicide as I tend to spray that separately as I don't want to reduce the efficacy of it. It may not actually do anything just my own OCD about it. Fungicide is not something I spray often so I'm not 100% on what to mix with it.
> 
> 
> 
> @Mightyquinn Thank you. I meant to ask, for your monthly preventative bifen apps, do you water in or do you let it sit on the canopy? Label recommends watering in for most except worms, etc. As of now, I don't see any insect activity on the canopy.
> 
> Or, can you let sit on the grass for 24 hours and then water in to get both types of insects?
Click to expand...

I just read the instructions again and it says to water it in immediately after application unless you are using 10 gallons of water/M (which I think most of us here are NOT doing, unless you are using a hose end applicator). So, with that being said, I would recommend that if you are applying it, that you spray in the late evening and water it in the next morning at the latest. You could also run your irrigation for like 15 minutes a zone after application too.

I think leaving it on the grass blades is not going to gain anything in the long run as it should still have some residual left on the grass.


----------



## Thick n Dense

Imadiclorpid (butchered it) is the curative right ?

I could theoritcally put this down twice a year and avoid using preventitive all together right?


----------



## Rucraz2

Question for anyone. 3 yrs ago our neighborhood had a huge grub issue and foxes destroyed a majority of people's yards. Mine wasn't too bad as I hadn't done any preventative but got something down immediately and saved mine. Ever since I have I have sprayed Imidacloprid end of June which has worked great the previous years. I have been seeing little spots where animals are digging. Not tearing up the yard, but noticeable spots. I know we have a ton of Beatles this yr in the neighborhood. I haven't seen any grubs, but when I am seeing animals digging , does that mean they are possibly there?? My yard is the only green one on our street, but havent seen any other damage in others either? But in previous yrs it was mostly in the back yards.


----------



## Thick n Dense

Rucraz2 said:


> Question for anyone. 3 yrs ago our neighborhood had a huge grub issue and foxes destroyed a majority of people's yards. Mine wasn't too bad as I hadn't done any preventative but got something down immediately and saved mine. Ever since I have I have sprayed Imidacloprid end of June which has worked great the previous years. I have been seeing little spots where animals are digging. Not tearing up the yard, but noticeable spots. I know we have a ton of Beatles this yr in the neighborhood. I haven't seen any grubs, but when I am seeing animals digging , does that mean they are possibly there?? My yard is the only green one on our street, but havent seen any other damage in others either? But in previous yrs it was mostly in the back yards.


Maybe the grubs are dead but there so the animals go for them


----------



## Bombers

Mightyquinn said:


> Lust4Lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I applied .6oz of imidacloprid in early May but this past weekend when I pumped my septic I had 8-12 grubs under the turf above my lid. I was kind of surprised but I have been struggling with other areas of the turf darkening like they are suffering drought stress. I picked up a bag of Bayer 24 hour (Dylox) and plan to spread it tonight and irrigate the following morning and I am due anyways.
> 
> There are som many conflicting points on when to apply imidacloprid for proper coverage. I think @Mightyquinn is on to something with the partial apps. My struggle is that the label states apply .6 oz/k for grubs and maximum annual rate is also .6 oz/k. This only leads me back to the conflicting data regarding the application timing.
> 
> 
> 
> You are correct in what the label says for Imidacloprid but another member reached out to the manufacturer and asked them about that and said it wouldn't really do any damage doing what I do. I will try and find it as I think it's on here somewhere.
> 
> I have been applying it every 3 months for years now with no ill effects that I know of.
Click to expand...

Do you split that .6oz/k to .15oz every 3 months or do you apply .6 oz every time?


----------



## Mightyquinn

I apply .6oz/M every 3 months


----------



## SweLawn

Anyone know if Pyrinex (chlorpyrifos) is safe for grass seeds , kbg ?


----------



## Frankzzz

Thick n Dense said:


> Imadiclorpid (butchered it) is the curative right ?
> 
> I could theoritcally put this down twice a year and avoid using preventitive all together right?


Imidacloprid and chlorantraniliprole are preventive.
Dylox (trichlorfon) and Sevin (carbaryl) are curative.
How to choose and when to apply grub control products for your lawn.


----------



## Frankzzz

Sevin Lawn Insect Granules, as mentioned in the MSU article, no longer contains Carbaryl.
They even changed the name slightly, to Sevin Insect Killer Lawn Granules, and it now contains Zeta-Cypermethrin and Bifenthrin, but no more carbaryl.
https://www.gardentech.com/products/sevin/sevin-lawn-insect-granules
None of their sprays/concentrates contain carbaryl anymore, either.


----------



## Frankzzz

For everyone who uses the MSU - Michigan State University article for guidance - 
"How to choose and when to apply grub control products for your lawn."
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/how_to_choose_and_when_to_apply_grub_control_products_for_your_lawn

I emailed the author of the article (a doctor and professor of entomology at MSU) and asked him about the recommended dates of applications. He said those recommended dates in the article are for the Michigan area, so everyone needs to adjust the dates according to their own particular area of the country. I specifically asked him about the Southeast US, such as Florida, Alabama, Georgia, Tennessee, and the Carolinas. He said it would range from about 4 weeks earlier [than the dates in the article] for south Georgia to about 3 weeks earlier for the Carolinas. Everyone should check with their own local Extension office for more specific timing for their area.

I also asked about Sevin and carbaryl, and he said he would be updating the article to show under the Available Curative Products that the Sevin Lawn Insect Granules no longer contains carbaryl.


----------



## SodFace

Nice work @Frankzzz - hope you mentioned we're big fans of his article here


----------



## Bombers

theycallme_d said:


> Amazon and Walmart have 14.35-Lb Scotts GrubEx1 Season Long Grub Killer (5000 sq. ft.) on sale for $15
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050DV4ZW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_EYM4T1QREKPY8XGYTMTP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/Scotts-Grub-Ex-Season-Long-Grub-Killer/17190373


Quoted from Hot Deals thread. Jump on it fellas.


----------



## cldrunner

I ended up having a small area of White Grubs in my front yard. I use Bifen(not labeled for Grubs)every few months and Imidacloprid a few months ago. @Greendoc reccommeded in a post I can not find now to use Dylox for curative control.

I am buying some Dylox but also found the Bioadvanced 24 Hour Grub Killer Plus Granules have the same active ingredient
*Trichlorfon.*.

If you have a smaller lawn the 10lb bag covers 5K. 
https://www.bioadvanced.com/products/lawn-care/24-hour-grub-killer-plus-i

I made all the classic rookie mistakes. We have not had much rain this summer so when I first saw the area I though it was not getting enough water. I have had Take all Patch in the past so I threw down some azoxystrobin and propiconazole to try and help. Finally got down on my hands and knees and the grass pulled right up in that area and those little white monsters were feasting on my roots.


----------



## Jbird95

@cldrunner 
FYI- Grubex1 currently 50% off on Amazon. 3 bag limit. 1 bag covers 5K. This is the preventive stuff.


----------



## stuartmccall

Correctly identifying the grubs present should help with better timing for control. There is a nice grub ID chart at http://www.gilbasolutions.com/turf-pest-management.html
I'm not sure how applicable this is for the US but it's perfect for Australia


----------



## Mewwwda

Curious on what thoughts are on spraying Acelepryn vs Grubex?

My lawn is 17k and will need 2 big bags of Grubex which will come out to about $85 on sale. If I'm reading the Acelepryn label correctly, the rate for grubs is .18-.37oz/k. I could not even spray at the high rate and cover my entire yard with 1 bottle. The 4 oz bottle is $116. The only larger bottle I can find is over $1k so that's out of the question.

I'm thinking I will just go with 2 bags of Grubex, but I just wanted to know if there was a reason I should go with Acelepryn instead. What do others use that have similar sized lawns?


----------



## Bombers

Mewwwda said:


> Curious on what thoughts are on spraying Acelepryn vs Grubex?
> 
> My lawn is 17k and will need 2 big bags of Grubex which will come out to about $85 on sale. If I'm reading the Acelepryn label correctly, the rate for grubs is .18-.37oz/k. I could not even spray at the high rate and cover my entire yard with 1 bottle. The 4 oz bottle is $116. The only larger bottle I can find is over $1k so that's out of the question.
> 
> I'm thinking I will just go with 2 bags of Grubex, but I just wanted to know if there was a reason I should go with Acelepryn instead. What do others use that have similar sized lawns?


Always gotta search for cheaper generics/alternative.

34 oz for $151 before tax here. 
https://winproonline.com/products/altrisettermiticide?variant=21590747447376&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic


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## Mewwwda

Is there any reason that it is "better" to spray this vs Grubex? Or is this just a matter of this being a generic product and probably getting better coverage with liquid?

Also, I've never heard of this website, anyone have experience with them?


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## mjh648

Mewwwda said:


> Is there any reason that it is "better" to spray this vs Grubex? Or is this just a matter of this being a generic product and probably getting better coverage with liquid?
> 
> Also, I've never heard of this website, anyone have experience with them?


it's generally cheaper to spray. usually takes more time though so just need to be aware of that.


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## ionicatoms

mjh648 said:


> it's generally cheaper to spray. usually takes more time though so just need to be aware of that.


I would add a caveat that if I can spray multiple products at the same time, it generally saves time over the alternative of applying several rounds of granular. That being said, I decided to go with GrubEx this year anyway. :nod:


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## Bombers

Mewwwda said:


> Is there any reason that it is "better" to spray this vs Grubex? Or is this just a matter of this being a generic product and probably getting better coverage with liquid?
> 
> Also, I've never heard of this website, anyone have experience with them?


They seem to be legit. Their name sounds familiar. I looked at their socials and they seem to be well-established with reps all around the country.

Generally liquid is cheaper per app, better coverage, can be mixed with other chemicals, takes up less storage space. The bigger your real estate, the more sense it makes to spray and your yard size is pretty decent. However, if you don't have a big sprayer or want to make the investment, granular is fine to work with while paying more per app. At the end of the day, do what you like and makes you happy.


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## TheThirstyTurtle

Is it time yet to start applying Grubex in the northeast for grub prevention? I believe mid to late April is supposed to be the ideal timeframe to apply Grubex but I wasn't sure if the recent crazy weather would alter that.


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## Green

TheThirstyTurtle said:


> Is it time yet to start applying Grubex in the northeast for grub prevention? I believe mid to late April is supposed to be the ideal timeframe to apply Grubex but I wasn't sure if the recent crazy weather would alter that.


This is perfect timing, now.


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## Thick n Dense

So let me get this straight ... i think im wrong so please correct me.

If i use a curative now thats fine but I'll have ri apply another dose of curative later in the year I think late summer right.

Or I could just do preventitive now and be done for the year .

Are these truths ?


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## ken-n-nancy

Thick n Dense said:


> So let me get this straight ... i think im wrong so please correct me.
> 
> If i use a curative now thats fine but I'll have ri apply another dose of curative later in the year I think late summer right.
> 
> Or I could just do preventitive now and be done for the year .
> 
> Are these truths ?


If still unclear, the best thing to do is to re-read the MSU Article:


How to choose and when to apply grub control products for your lawn

However, to answer your questions directly: 

A curative product should be applied when, and only if, you have current grubs in your lawn.
A preventative product should be applied in spring to prevent the grubs that will hatch in July and which would eat the roots of grass plants in your lawn from August through May of the next year.
Proper timing of a preventative product depends on the active ingredient. For chlorantraniliprole (Scotts GrubEx1) apply in early spring (April - May). For imidacloprid (Merit), apply in very early summer (late June).

So basically, you should now apply a preventative product to prevent grub problems in August 2022 through May 2023. If you have current grubs in your lawn, you should also apply a curative product ASAP.

As the old adage says, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure (from Benjamin Franklin.) For lawn enthusiasts, I recommend making preventative applications of a product with chlorantraniliprole every year in early spring.


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## 440mag

ken-n-nancy said:


> …I recommend making preventative applications of a product with chlorantraniliprole every year in early spring.


^That^ is the way … :thumbup:

I set up reminders in my phone, which I start getting late Feb thru March, to add it to our shopping list and thereby already have it on-hand in April/May, immediately before a good rain :thumbup:

CAN'T STRESS ENOUGH THE EFFICACY OF ABSORBING - AND SHARING WITH NBRS, etc - THIS ARTICLE:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/how_to_choose_and_when_to_apply_grub_control_products_for_your_lawn


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## CDR

Side question 
Grub control for lawns is not an issue however during installation of a base layer today for 2 massive planters, I was floored and dug up 5 grubs in like a 1SF area.

I've read mixed things about Grubex in Flower and Shrubbery Beds

- anyone use grubex in this situation or have another suggestion. I don't want to kill all my plants.

Thanks


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## ionicatoms

Acelepryn is labeled for flowers, consequently GrubEx should be fine in both locations.


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## ABC123

soap will bring them all to the surface because they cant breath if the soil doesnt allow oxygen.


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## CDR

I got the Award 15-0-5 50% EXN SOP and 0.067% Acelepryn Fertilizer by EC Grow to try this year. 
Maybe I toss a little into the beds too


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## Bill Alburger1

I am in South Eastern PA. On April 15th I applied Acelepryn, then on June 6th I applied Merit (maybe a little too early), but I was worried about grub damage, wanted to get ahead and may have jumped the gun. Late summer last year and in fall after my over seed I had grub damaged. Should I be thinking about applying another grub control? Or will my Acelepryn and Merit applications cover me into fall and past grub feeding? As of now I see no signs of grub damage. I have not really looked for adult beetles, but will keep my eye out.


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## robjak

Merit June 6th will be fine.


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## Bill Alburger1

robjak said:


> Merit June 6th will be fine.


I saw a beetle on the tip of the grass tonight as I was inspecting my patio for stains from my Greene Effect application. 
Is this an indicator of grubs to come July/ August and the fall? As I took the beetle off, it was like it was already dead, no movement.


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## Jeff_MI84

I'm putting down Merit 0.5G tomorrow. Label says 1.4-1.8lb/ k. Is it always best to err on the side of caution and use the higher rate?

Also, for a Lesco 80#, is setting 12 okay like every other granular? What about the Lesco hand spreader?


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## Pannellde

"
……
CAN'T STRESS ENOUGH THE EFFICACY OF ABSORBING - AND SHARING WITH NBRS, etc - THIS ARTICLE:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/how_to_choose_and_when_to_apply_grub_control_products_for_your_lawn"

+1


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## ken-n-nancy

Bill Alburger1 said:


> I am in South Eastern PA. On April 15th I applied Acelepryn, then on June 6th I applied Merit (maybe a little too early), but I was worried about grub damage, wanted to get ahead and may have jumped the gun. Late summer last year and in fall after my over seed I had grub damaged. Should I be thinking about applying another grub control? Or will my Acelepryn and Merit applications cover me into fall and past grub feeding?


With those two applications, you should be more than set to avoid problems from grubs which will hatch this summer and would otherwise start to be a problem in the fall.


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## Darth_V8r

ABC123 said:


> soap will bring them all to the surface because they cant breath if the soil doesnt allow oxygen.


I literally thought soap worked because it made the grass taste bad


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## 440mag

Just came across this illustration and thought it may be of assistance to some in a clearer perspective of the "Why" behind the "When" on the "What" to use and "How"

From: https://union.ces.ncsu.edu/2022/06/what-are-japanese-beetles/

We all already are painfully aware of the "Where"


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## Notchy

440mag said:


> Just came across this illustration and thought it may be of assistance to some in a clearer perspective of the "Why" behind the "When" on the "What" to use and "How"
> 
> From: https://union.ces.ncsu.edu/2022/06/what-are-japanese-beetles/
> 
> We all already are painfully aware of the "Where"


great post


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## Victor Von Lawn

The Lawn Care Nut has a good article on this as well. He also has good videos on the life cycle.

https://thelawncarenut.com/blogs/news/may-30th-newsletter


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## 440mag

Victor Von Lawn said:


> The Lawn Care Nut has a good article on this as well. He also has good videos on the life cycle.
> 
> https://thelawncarenut.com/blogs/news/may-30th-newsletter


LOL, I almost dropped my tablet when he wrote he could get a 27-ounce bottle Dominion 2L for $21.24 (price now is above $40 and closer to $50) 

Then I went back and it appears that blog was written in May of 2020 … :lol:

Good article though! :thumbup:


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## 440mag

CDR said:


> Side question
> Grub control for lawns is not an issue however during installation of a base layer today for 2 massive planters, I was floored and dug up 5 grubs in like a 1SF area.
> 
> I've read mixed things about Grubex in Flower and Shrubbery Beds
> 
> - anyone use grubex in this situation or have another suggestion. I don't want to kill all my plants.
> 
> Thanks


^Another^ example of where Beneficial Nematodes shine, Shine, SHINE!!!!

https://hydro-gardens.com/product/guardian-lawn-patrol-mix-1-million-5p385a/

https://www.arbico-organics.com/product/omri-NemAttack-Pro-Sc-Beneficial-Nematodes/beneficial-nematodes


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## Wakedog

440mag said:


> ^Another^ example of where Beneficial Nematodes shine, Shine, SHINE!!!!


I'm having major trouble with raccoons digging up grubs in my yard - I've got holes all over the place and it's fairly frustrating.

My wife and I agreed not to use chemicals, so I've ordered some Bennie Todes to help deal with the grubs. Any idea how long they take to meaningfully reduce the grub population? I know it's a longer-term fix, but I'm also in need of short-term help.

Additionally, anything else that is organic that I can do to either (a) get rid of the grubs or (b) prevent the raccoons from digging them up? I've applied some of the scent stuff which did absolutely nothing.

Thanks in advance!


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## 440mag

Wakedog said:


> I'm having major trouble with raccoons digging up grubs in my yard - I've got holes all over the place and it's fairly frustrating.
> 
> …. Any idea how long they take to meaningfully reduce the grub population? …


Ha! Be happy you're not dealing with wild turkeys!!!!! Imagine waking up and finding entire swaths of turf peeled back like skin off an apple - there were multiples times you'd have sworn someone had spent the night in our yard with a roto-tiller!!!!!  :shock: 

If you apply the BN's to wet soil (as in moist inches down) juuuuuuust before dark they will spend that night burrowing down 3" - 7" down into the soil and their "seek and destroy to reproduce" begins immediately.

They seek out subterranean hosts (grubs, termites, larvae, etc but not earthworms), pierce their way inside the host, lay eggs which hatch and then feed upon the host from the inside out and then those offspring repeat the whole "seek and destroy to reproduce" cycle!

A lot depends upon how big a grub population you have, how permeable your soil is, whether or not the soil stays moist, etc., etc.

MOISTURE and COOL TEMPS are your goals when it comes to keeping your BN herd happy … :thumbup:

I try to time my BN app.s for Sept - Oct during tropical storm season (which in South Atlantic runs August - November)

Depending upon a whole bunch of different criteria I'd say you should see a decline in **** activity inside a month to 5 or 6 weeks at outside …

Of course, once your yard is devoid of hosts (or one mistakenly applies BN's during droughts, etc.) your BN herd disappears …. (That's why we combine a one- or two- time BN app with app of Milky Disease Spore every 8 years or so …)


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## 1Phasthound

Several States in the Northeast are banning neonicotinoid pesticides in order to protect pollinators.


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