# Help Look Over My DIY Sprinkler Plan



## A3M0N (Mar 17, 2021)

I'm just brainstorming a future DIY sprinkler system for my backyard. It will be purchased and built in sections, right now I'm just trying to see if I'm in the ballpark or way off on how it should be done. This isn't finished, I just want to see if I'm barking up the right tree.

I have 50 psi, coming from a 1/2in supply pipe. According to https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/ I have 6 gpm of safely available flow, and a 5 gallon bucket test confirmed that.

Is this plan looking right so far? As of now I've only plotted some spray heads, I haven't really even thought about pipe yet.

The grey rectangles are the patio and walkway to the gate, the circle is the firepit.

Thanks!


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## Delmarva Keith (May 12, 2018)

Looks interesting. Always more than one way to do things so go for it.

I think you will want heads in the corners of the 68' x approx 25' area. Other than that, coverage looks good. Another thing to look into might be the Rainbird and Hunter rotary nozzles. Lower flow demands so you may be able to have fewer zones if that's of any use to you.

Half inch pipe might cause some issues too. Do the friction loss calcs, etc.


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## bernstem (Jan 16, 2018)

+1 unless you want the top left corner to by dry, I would add three heads on the back ~25 foot line. Everything else looks good. MP rotators or similar would be another head option that is low flow and automatically fow matched.


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## A3M0N (Mar 17, 2021)

Thanks @Delmarva Keith and @bernstem! I originally wanted to keep it really simple and blast a couple of rotors at it, but realized real quick that won't work. My intention was to use MP Rotators, but cost is also a factor for me. I can get spray bodies and nozzles for what's in my current plan for around $55, for the Rotators it would be closer to $200+. Of course, all of that may wash due to having more zones, meaning more pipe and valves, etc.

The back left, the odd corner, will eventually have a bed with a tree planted - and a Doggie Dooley. So I'm not too worried about planning for that section yet. I need to measure and make a plan for that bed.

Is there a better way to more evenly cover the entire yard? Like I currently have two sections, the one right in front of the patio and the other longer one to the left. Is it best to break those into smaller chunks, or should I treat it more like one big area?

Thanks again!


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

100% agree with the other comments regarding going with rotators over sprays, especially since you're limited by water flow. Just for comparison, the equivalent MP Rotator for your Zone 5 & 6 would be MP1000 on PRS30 heads to get your 12' radius ... but they only require 0.69 GPM ea and throw down 0.46 in/hr (vs the 2.52 GPM @ 1.68 in/hr for the pro-sprays). So you can technically consolidate those 2 zones and run all 4 MP1000s and still have room to spare on that zone. Mind you you'll need to run them 3x as long, but putting down 1.68"/hr of water is never a good thing, not if you have clay soil like i'm sure you do. Any cost difference between the two is easily offset by the savings in material & labor to eliminate that zone/valve.

To the cost aspect.. since your incoming PSI doesn't require much reduction and you seem to have a level yard, you can go with the regular PROS-04 body (under $2 each) vs the pressure-regulated + check-valved PRS30/40s (at $8/each). The rotator nozzles themselves are pricey compared to the sprays but even if you break even on the entire system (sprays vs rotors) i'd still go with rotors personally. And for that matter I'd consider spanning that entire 24' section of lawn with something more far-reaching to eliminate that center row, if possible. It really makes life easier when it comes to aeration time, etc.

One thing that I can't get over is the 1/2" supply line... is that underground supply?? Or are you tapping off a water bibb line?? I'm running 15 MP2000 rotator heads on 1 zone at my house, for reference of what higher flow/psi can allow.

EDIT: Consider looking into the Rainbird RVAN specs as rotator options as well.


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## bernstem (Jan 16, 2018)

I also noticed, you might want another head in the middle of the right side zone at the edge. You can drop the red head on the top left corner of the grey 11x23 foot area and set the black head to run 270 degrees. If you get creative, you may be able to drop the top left red head as well and set one or more of the black heads to run 270.

You also want heads in the bottom corners of the left rectangle (90 degrees) and three along the top of the rectangle. Even if you don't irrigate the area up there, you will want a corner 90 and a middle 180 at the end. The way it is designed now, you have a lot of area at the top with only one head covering it.

I also think you should look at building with MP3000s or MP3500s. You can probably drop a lot of heads with the higher throw distance assuming you can get rid of the row of heads down the middle of the left rectangle (it looks like it is ~25 feet wide?). If your supply pressure is 50PSI, you don't need pressure regulating spray bodies.

1/2 inch supply line to the house is really small. Are you sure that is correct?


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## A3M0N (Mar 17, 2021)

Thanks again y'all. I really do like the rotator idea, I'll have to go back and take a look at that. I already have a plan made with those as well, I have things to think on for sure.

I didn't measure the pipe from the meter, I know my pressure regulator is right next to it. I had to dig it out when we moved in, the box had filled with dirt/mud. I'm getting the 1/2in pipe measurement from my garage, coming in from the wall and into the hot water heater. This is the coldest climate I've ever lived in, I'm used to finding the supply pipe outside, its not outside at this house. But I am planning to run this off the hose bibb for now, I'll connect it when I need it and cap it off when not in use. But my bibbs are frost free (again, new to me) and I'm not sure you can tap off that line.

I know my pressure regulator is going out. I had to dig it out and adjust it several months ago, the pressure was only around 20 psi. I pegged it out and was getting close to 70 psi, now its back to 50 psi. I'm thinking about having a plumber replace the regulator but in the garage, and putting a tee (transition it to PVC, I don't know how that works right now) or a hose bibb where the regulator is now. Maybe I'll see how much he would charge to run a pipe closer to the house and cap it off so I can use it in the future.


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## A3M0N (Mar 17, 2021)

How does something like this look, only for the left side for now. Everything appears to be covered at least twice, does this meet the head to head idea? Way less pipe, and less parts.

I also added a 2ft border/bed we have been planning to add around the yard, and a possible size for the corner bed/tree.


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## A3M0N (Mar 17, 2021)

I'm sure y'all have better things to do than look at idea, after idea of mine! But I sure do appreciate it.

I think this layout makes much more sense. Do I need rotators at the ends of each rectangle? And I'm playing with a possible 4th zone (purple) for the left over, odd shaped areas. Any tips on that?

I still haven't thought much on pipe runs, but I do plan to run it manually just using a hose timer and some pvc ball valves. It seems like inline valves would be best for ease of trenching and saving on pipe amounts. However, for ease of manual operation and possible future automatic valves and wiring, it would be easier to plumb it anti-siphon valve style. Thoughts?

Thanks again!


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

I would take a few minutes to watch the two of the more recent videos Pete just put out about Irrigation layout. He talks about watering needs based on other factors then just "running pipe to get full coverage". He makes some great points in both videos worth considering.

[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PFErAjgf_o[/media]

[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GYnzI-JbiAE[/media]


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## burntfire (Dec 10, 2020)

What's the elevation? That would depend on the layout.

I agree with what everyone above is saying but will add that with a 1" main for your irrigation you'll be able to get a tad more GPM


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