# Ideal HOC Range by Season and Grass Type



## jeffjunstrom (Aug 12, 2019)

I'm looking for some guidance (preferably some scientific material, but I'll take anecdotal evidence) on the ideal ranges for HOC during various months/seasons and by grass type. I look the look of a shorter cut, but don't want to cause damage in any given season. All else being equal, what are your ranges? What is too short/long?


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## beardizzle1 (Jun 13, 2019)

There's a whole lot more than just HOC that determines your HOC. One is your machine, I'd love to have reel mower and mow at like 3/4". It's not in the budget now and my lawn isn't in the condition to mow there. It would need to be level for a reel. There is also a lot more inputs you'll need to maintain your turf at something so low. I have a rotary and maintain at times 2" this spring, but primarily 2.5" and will go to 3" in the heat of summer (maybe taller if the turf needs it). My grass is the northern mix, but has a lot of KBG in it. The ability to water is also a big factor in maintaining your turf HOC.


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## jeffjunstrom (Aug 12, 2019)

I'm keeping it around 2" with my rotary, with a long term plan to level with sand and enter the reel game in ~3-5 years. Just looking to see what was ideal, and more so to make sure I'm not keeping it too low at any given time.


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## SJ Lawn (May 7, 2018)

Generally, mowing less than 2 inches will lessen drought and heat resistance of the turf and may increase the severity of
disease damage, and weed invasion.


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## SJ Lawn (May 7, 2018)

From Rutgers University:

Mowing should be done at a height of 2½ to 3½ inches, particularly during the summer. Continuous mowing at 2 inches or lower tends to weaken the turf and increase pest and other stress problems.

Frequency of mowing is best determined by the rate of growth of the lawn. As a guide, mow as frequently as necessary to remove no more than ⅓ of the leaf height in a single mowing. That is, mow by the time leaves reach a 3¾ inch height when cutting to 2½ inches, or mow by 5¼ inches when cutting to 3½ inches. As a general rule, a mowing frequency of once a week is adequate for mowing heights between 2½ and 3½ inches; heights of cut below 2½ inches will require more frequent mowing.

Removal of clippings imparts a neater appearance to the lawn; however it is usually not necessary to remove clippings. Returning clippings to the lawn will recycle nutrients to the soil and grass and also reduce waste. Mulching mowers facilitate this by chopping the clippings into smaller pieces. Contrary to the widespread misconception, returning clippings does not contribute to thatch accumulation in a lawn. However, heavy clipping yield-such as might occur if proper mowing frequency is neglected-might necessitate clipping removal or dispersal to prevent accumulation of large clumps of clippings on the lawn surface, which can smother and kill the grass.

Keep the mower blades sharp and properly adjusted. A dull blade shreds the grass leaves, weakens the turf, and turns the leaf tips brown, imparting an unattractive appearance to the lawn. Dull mower blades may also increase the severity of foliar turfgrass diseases. Mowing should stop in the fall when lawn growth has essentially ceased due to cold weather.


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## DAM Lawn (Jan 6, 2020)

Not scientific at all, based on my anecdotal experience. For the average person with a rotary mower and a mix of kbg/rye/fescue, spring and fall if you like it short mow 1.5 - 2 inch Looks good and gets thick. Heat of the Summer I bring that up to 3 inches or slightly above.


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## grasscorrection (May 2, 2019)

DAM Lawn said:


> spring and fall if you like it short mow 1.5 - 2 inch Looks good and gets thick. Heat of the Summer I bring that up to 3 inches or slightly above.


Wouldn't it be beneficial to mow at the highest your mower could go- for the entire year? Why bother fluctuating to the lower cuts in the spring/fall and risking the growth of weeds? And mowing once every 4 days in order to keep the clippings smaller. Wouldn't it be better to build up the entire lawn before the summer comes, not just when it starts to get hot?

Just some thoughts. It's all relative to so many factors. But if one can't perfect the longer 3-4 inch lawns, how do they know they can perfect the shorter cuts?


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## bernstem (Jan 16, 2018)

Higher turf stays wet longer and can lead to more disease. Leaving turf long going into winter can lead to problems with matting.


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## jha4aamu (Oct 16, 2017)

grasscorrection said:


> DAM Lawn said:
> 
> 
> > spring and fall if you like it short mow 1.5 - 2 inch Looks good and gets thick. Heat of the Summer I bring that up to 3 inches or slightly above.
> ...


Some people prefer the look of a lower cut, and will find that happy medium between low hoc and stress resistance/tolerance as to not kill their lawn. Also, mowing more frequently will encourage lateral growth and help thicken the lawn (and obviously keep clippings smaller) theres also a ton of soil/plant amendments people use to help encourage root growth and stress tolerance, regardless of height

I know alot of the elite varieties of kbg and prg have "recommended" hoc on their spec sheets, but i dont think theres a right or wrong answer to the hoc question


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## LawnDetail (Apr 15, 2020)

I agree with Dam Lawn. If your an average joe I think those guidelines fit most people in the cool season area.

Sometimes the lawn dictates the height. I have KBG/PRG/TTTF in my side and back yard, I tried 3-4" and it really never stood up right looking like crap. So in time I found that my lawn looks best at 2-2.5" (cut with riding mower)

Then there's the concept that if you cut it short your your going to have increased weeds, disease, yard drying out and other issues. My front yard is KBG/PRG and I maintain it at 1/2". I don't have any weed issues because it's so dense from the lateral growth being trained at .5" PGR apps and proper pre-emergent practices. I have less to no issues with fungus in this area compared to the higher cut, I think that's due to greater air flow and minimal thatch. And lawns need water no matter the height. (Reel mower)

You cut more often in spring and fall being it's the growing season, stick to the 1/3 rule if at all possible. During the summer if your not watering, it's stressed and not growing no need to cut, it'll only stress it out more.

So to sum it up you can have any lawn you want, it just depends on how much effort you want to put into it. Feeding, watering and proper cutting practices are the backbone to any nice lawn. I enjoy doing the research and spending time in the yard so I don't mind.


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## jeffjunstrom (Aug 12, 2019)

LawnDetail said:


> So to sum it up you can have any lawn you want, it just depends on how much effort you want to put into it. Feeding, watering and proper cutting practices are the backbone to any nice lawn. I enjoy doing the research and spending time in the yard so I don't mind.


I agree wholeheartedly. This will be my first full year down the rabbit hole after last years full reno, so I'm trying to get the finer points down. I've got a solid pre-em program, I think I'm applying the other "stuff" appropriately based on hours and hours of lurking, and I'm religious about mowing. Add in the irrigation system and I think keeping it at 2" will work. Just gonna keep working to get that reel. And utilizing PGR, I got primo maxx for this year but haven't started yet.


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## Babameca (Jul 29, 2019)

@jeffjunstrom 
1.You don't have to sand level in order to reel mow. Almost the opposite. My soil is much flatter since I reel mow.
2. Grass type dramatically defines HOC. Even from KBG to KBG there is a major difference. My Reno grows 2 times slower in height than my old Nomix. The varieties I have are listed to be mowed between 5/8 and 1.5 inches. Anything longer and it looks bad...mushy.
3. Once you go low...you won't go back! My grass still recovers from the Canada winter, but I can stare at it all day long. HOC 7/8


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## bernstem (Jan 16, 2018)

jeffjunstrom said:


> LawnDetail said:
> 
> 
> > So to sum it up you can have any lawn you want, it just depends on how much effort you want to put into it. Feeding, watering and proper cutting practices are the backbone to any nice lawn. I enjoy doing the research and spending time in the yard so I don't mind.
> ...


Assuming they didn't change the mix, you should be good mowing at that height (and you can probably go to 1/2 inch if you want). Currently the mix is elite KBG, elite PRG, and chewings fescue. That should tolerate low cutting if you want to go lower, but is likely to be happiest at ~2 inches in spring and fall. If your summer is hot, raising to ~3 inches will help with heat tolerance and reducing water usage. Likely you can raise it even higher, but elite KBGs tend to get floppy and lay over a lot at above 3 inches unless the lawn is really thick (and a really thick lawn has its own issues).

In general, KBG and PRG that are cut below 1.5 inches starts to require a lot more work, and any issues with the lawn are more visible. I would recommend keeping to the more "traditional" mowing heights for a bit before moving to low cut. I certainly wouldn't drop money on an expensive powered reel mower until you have the lawn doing well with your current rotary and know you are willing to spend the time (do you want to mow 2-4 times per week?). Make sure you have a feel for what the lawn is going to do. You want to know what areas struggle, where the turf stresses from heat, what spots really need work on leveling, what fungal diseases are a problem, etc. Get all that in line and then start going lower.


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