# Nutsedge



## JayGo (Jun 13, 2019)

I've been treating my neighbor's lawn for the past 2 years and have it doing pretty dang well. The only thing I need to knock out is nutsedge. Parts of his property don't drain well.
So if nutsedge is the only weed I want to treat for, is Sedgehammer enough?


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## Mister Bill (Apr 12, 2019)

JayGo said:


> I've been treating my neighbor's lawn for the past 2 years and have it doing pretty dang well. The only thing I need to knock out is nutsedge. Parts of his property don't drain well.
> So if nutsedge is the only weed I want to treat for, is Sedgehammer enough?


Yes, that will be enough, but it will take several applications in succession over several seasons to completely eradicate it.


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## BudaTx (Jul 15, 2020)

Mister Bill said:


> JayGo said:
> 
> 
> > I've been treating my neighbor's lawn for the past 2 years and have it doing pretty dang well. The only thing I need to knock out is nutsedge. Parts of his property don't drain well.
> ...


You might want to look into Certainty for the sedge issue. If it does take several applications over a few years it would be cheaper then buying Sedgehammer multiple times.


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## Mister Bill (Apr 12, 2019)

BudaTx said:


> Mister Bill said:
> 
> 
> > JayGo said:
> ...


Certainty is more expensive than Sedgehammer in retail bottle packaging.


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

Sulfentrazone + Halosulfuron The sulfentrazone shows an increase in dead tubers over halosulfuron.

I'm of the opinion the reason it's taking people so long to get rid of an existing nutsedge problem is because they're simply not using the right product based on the way they are marketed.

[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20GHnEa8L0Q[/media]


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## Mister Bill (Apr 12, 2019)

Amoo316 said:


> Sulfentrazone + Halosulfuron The sulfentrazone shows an increase in dead tubers over halosulfuron.
> 
> I'm of the opinion the reason it's taking people so long to get rid of an existing nutsedge problem is because they're simply not using the right product based on the way they are marketed.


I am of the opinion to answer the question as it was asked. :lol:


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

Mister Bill said:


> I am of the opinion to answer the question as it was asked. :lol:


I did? He's been treating for a few years but still having nutsedge issues. I prefer to solve the problem not just fix the symptoms.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

JayGo said:


> …So if nutsedge is the only weed I want to treat for, is Sedgehammer enough?


Sedgehammer has always worked fine for me.


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## Alex C9 (Jul 31, 2021)

I've had great results with Sedgehammer. Don't forget to use a non-ionic surfactant with it and follow the label rate.


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## JayGo (Jun 13, 2019)

Thanks, gentlemen. I used Sedgehammer on my lawn a couple of years ago, and while it took multiple apps, it did knock out my sedge.
I was curious if there was something out there I didn't know about. May get that little bottle of Sedgehammer that'll hopefully last a while.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

I have also used Katana with success. It is more expensive, but it is a broad spectrum option that works on a number of broadleaf and grassy weeds - including poa.


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## JayGo (Jun 13, 2019)

@Ware, you know, I'd forgotten ll about Katana. May need to revisit that one.


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

Blindside would also be a solid "buy one product" option


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## TampaBayFL (Jul 24, 2020)

IMO, this one doesnt get enough credit. This works FAST. Sedge Hammer is much much slower for me.

I talked to the golf course superintendent in my neighborhood and they use Dismiss (which is the same active ingredient as the below). Sedge Ender has some other goodies in it as well though (such as prodiamine).

https://www.domyown.com/bonide-sedge-ender-concentrate-p-3626.html


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## FlaDave (Jul 10, 2018)

Assuming your neighbor has Bermuda sedgehammer or certainty should work great. I've had better results with dismiss. Combining the two knocks it out really fast. I also like using blindside as it takes care of multiple things at once. It may be a bit hot for dismiss or blindside so if you go that route expect some yellowing. You can usually mitigate the yellowing with some feature or main event added to the mix. I personally like to hit it hard and get it over with.


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## JayGo (Jun 13, 2019)

Guys, let me follow up with another question…

So another neighbor across the street saw me spraying my next door neighbor's lawn for the nutsedge referenced in my OP, and asked about an herbicide for his weeds.
That neighbor also has nutsedge in a few spots, but he primary problem is a mix crab, dallis, & maybe goosegrass. It's actually not too bad.

After a ton of reading, it doesn't look like there is a single herbicide that knocks all of those out. Am I right?
I have read contradicting info….that Celsius can be used for crabgrass, but it's not on the label. Blindside looks like another great option, but it doesn't list dallis grass.

So it's looking like I'll need a mix of herbicides to kill the crab/dallis grasses and the nutsedge. Any suggestions from the more savvy among us?
I looked at Celsius simply because it has such a great reputation for Bermudagrass and being applied in high heat on top of knocking out all of the more typical weeds.


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

Sulfentrazone + Quinclorac is the route I would go. My general understanding is anything that has action on Goosegrass is likely to have action on Dallasgrass as well. Repeat app is likely regardless.

Solitaire if you don't want to roll your own, but I'm not sure if there's enough Sulfentrazone in Solitaire to hammer the sedges since I generally roll my own on basically everything. Besides I think most people think I'm crazy so there's that.


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## Cdub5_ (Jun 12, 2019)

To add to the sedge discussion, are any of these mentioned products safe to use in landscaping like around rose bushes, hydrangeas, boxwoods...?


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## FlaDave (Jul 10, 2018)

For Dallis and goose you would be better off with msma. I'm assuming your neighbor lives on a golf course or highway right of way.


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## JayGo (Jun 13, 2019)

FlaDave said:


> For Dallis and goose you would be better off with msma. I'm assuming your neighbor lives on a golf course or highway right of way.


I've only seen MSMA mentioned on TLM, and it seems it's a serious herbicide. I know nothing about it.

...and..yes...uhmm...yeah...of course we live on a golf course. Wouldn't have it any other way. 😬


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## Easyluck (Feb 5, 2019)

I think I'd tell your neighbor not to worry about the goosegrass this year. A preventative strategy next season will be easier and more effective.

For dallisgrass the only herbicide labeled for residential use that will control it completely is glyphosate. If only a small amount of dallisgrass then hand pulling with the help of a weeding tool is another complete control option. It comes up pretty easy using one of those tools. I eliminated 10k sqft worth of dallisgrass from my lawn 3 years ago using this method. When I had time I'd hand pull it. Took 2 months and nine 5 gallon buckets. If I inherited a lawn with that much dallisgrass ever again I would do a full renovation &#128514;


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## JayGo (Jun 13, 2019)

@Easyluck, you literally just laid out my personal weed control "program."
I've been baby-ing my lawn for the last 6 years, and I literally hand pull any and every single weed I see in my lawn. I've never had to learn about herbicide mixes, so I've never had to buy $100 bottles of anything. Only thing I use for weeds is pre-emergent (prodiamine in Spring and dithiopyr in Fall).

I'm trying to safely/conservatively use my neighbor's lawn as my project lawn and also use it as an excuse to learn about some of these herbicide cocktails.

But hand 🖐🏼 pulling is instant weed control. 👍🏼


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

This is another reason I have been trying to push Sulfentrazone over Halosulfuron (sedgehammer) for sedges.

1. It simply works better.
2. It has action on more weeds than just Sedges.

EDIT: It's also cheaper at $57 for 61.5 applications of 6oz/acre rate vs $82 for 40 applications.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Amoo316 said:


> This is another reason I have been trying to push Sulfentrazone over Halosulfuron (sedgehammer) for sedges.
> 
> 1. It simply works better.
> 2. It has action on more weeds than just Sedges.
> ...


It is my understanding Dismiss can cause injury to desirable turf when temps are above like 85°F. Unfortunately some of us won't be guaranteed temps like that again until late September or early October. :bd:

There are many roads to Dallas, but I would say the lack of temperature restriction is one of the primary reasons Certainty and Sedgehammer are so commonly recommended on this site for sedges. They can be safely applied even in the heat of summer.

But as "Billy" (  ) kindly pointed out to @Iriasj2009 on another site about 5 years ago, choosing the right herbicide also depends largely on which specific weeds you are targeting:



> It's hard to give a one-size-fits-all recommendation for herbicides. Knowing your weed population and the characteristics of the various herbicides will help you reach the best treatment plan for your property. In this case, let's look at the different herbicides: Dismiss and Certainty. The active ingredient in Dismiss is sulfentrazone, which functions as a PPO inhibitor -- it has mostly contact activity, disrupts cell walls and membranes quickly, and shows results quickly. The active ingredient in Certainty is sulfosulfuron, which functions as an ALS inhibitor -- it ceases growth quickly, but takes much longer to control weeds. Some people prefer the quick activity of Dismiss over the slow activity of Certainty.
> 
> But ............ Dismiss has little or no activity on purple nutsedge. If you have yellow nutsedge, annual sedge, globe sedge, green kyllinga, or false green kyllinga, Dismiss will work well for you. But, if you have purple nutsedge, Dismiss will leave you disappointed. Certainty, however, has excellent activity on yellow nutsedge, purple nutsedge, and annual sedge, but is weaker than Dismiss on the kyllingas. Since purple nutesdge is usually (not always, but usually) more prevalent in the southern Great Plains and westward (OK, TX, AR, etc), Certainty may be the best option. But, for those east of there (TN, MS, AL, GA, NC), Dismiss may be your best bet.
> 
> It's all about what weeds you have and what effect you're looking for.


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

Ware said:


> It is my understanding Dismiss can cause injury to desirable turf when temps are above like 85°F. Unfortunately some of us won't be guaranteed temps like that again until late September or early October. :bd:
> 
> There are many roads to Dallas, but I would say the lack of temperature restriction is one of the primary reasons Certainty and Sedgehammer are so commonly recommended on this site for sedges. They can be safely applied even in the heat of summer.


Sulfentrazone does not have a temp restriction on it like a lot of the 3-way herbicides. They're actually very specific in the label about when to and when not to use a surfactant with it.

I think we can all agree that in high heat we've all observed Sulfentrazone may cause some slight discoloration. I think we can all agree in high heat Sedgehammer may cause some slight discoloration (that's why they talk about water droplet size in high heat).

I'm not singling you out here, but you made a quote in the round-up thread that was something to the effect of, "most of us aren't buying name brand roundup anyways." I feel there are certain chemical compositions on this board, that seem to get a pass from that simply because people just don't know or it's assumed people know about them. Celcius (You can't replicate with anything), Certainty (2 known generics, splits happen with people in the know), Sedgehammer (A bunch of generics which never get mentioned and would save people TONS of money see Empero)...etc.

We deal with a ton of new people all the time. I agree with you that there are a ton of roads to Dallas, I just know Sedgehammer isn't one of them unless we're all into paying $20 a bottle extra for the exact same thing.

Also for clarification when I sprayed my yard this year Sedges and Kyllinga I sprayed....Sulfentrazone and Halosulfuron combo (Dismiss + Sedgehammer). But I didn't spray Dismiss and Sedgehammer, I sprayed Agrisel Sulfentrazone and Empero. It's not that I don't think Halo has a place, as I obviously do and I used it. I just think it's getting too many places for what it is.

Edit: Look what is happening in the pre-M thread at the moment. A little bit of education, some university studies and people who never were considering multiple MOAs for Pre-Ms are now doing that. I think Post deserves the same treatment.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Amoo316 said:


> ...I'm not singling you out here, but you made a quote in the round-up thread that was something to the effect of, "most of us aren't buying name brand roundup anyways." I feel there are certain chemical compositions on this board, that seem to get a pass from that simply because people just don't know. Celcius (You can't replicate with anything), Certainty (2 known generics, splits happen with people in the know), Sedgehammer (A bunch of generics which never get mentioned and would save people TONS of money see Empero)...etc.
> 
> We deal with a ton of new people all the time. I agree with you that there are a ton of roads to Dallas, I just know Sedgehammer isn't one of them unless we're all into paying $20 a bottle for the exact same thing.


Speaking of new people, you have been a member here for 32 days now so you should know this - when I reference a product on this site, whether it be a trade name or an active ingredient, it is usually without regard to whether or not there is a readily available generic or how much someone should pay for it. I type whatever name comes to mind because I am usually multitasking. I am also guilty of calling all soft drinks "Coke" sometimes, but in no way does that imply you should not buy the Dr Thunder if it tastes like Dr Pepper to you. I promise you're not the first person here to discover generic herbicides. :thumbup:


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

Ware said:


> Speaking of new people, you have been a member here for 32 days now so you should know this - when I reference a product on this site, whether it be a trade name or an active ingredient, it is usually without regard to whether or not there is a readily available generic or how much someone should pay for it. I type whatever name comes to mind because I am usually multitasking. I am also guilty of calling all soft drinks "Coke" sometimes, but in no way does that imply you should not buy the Dr Thunder if it tastes like Dr Pepper to you. I promise you're not the first person here to discover generic herbicides. :thumbup:


I kind of had an idea already this was going to be along the lines of your response. I think it's trivializing my point, but that's fine. My overall point was multiple MOAs and not just making recommendations on the same 3 products for everything. This is where we are though, so it is what it is.


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

I use brand names for recommendations on here sometimes but buy the generic myself. I suppose if you follow my advice exactly without doing any research you'll end up paying more. Ya gotta do a little of your own legwork. If you bombard new folks with many recommendations on herbicides it's a bit overwhelming. For cool season grasses there's a few herbicides you can keep in your arsenal and tackle about everything. I assume the same rings true for warm season grasses.

I use SedgeHammer. I like spending money.


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## FlaDave (Jul 10, 2018)

It really comes down to the level of experience you have in the lawn. The bermuda triangle is fairly safe for Bermuda with minimal negative effects. At this moment I see 5 registered users (Including myself) and 10 guest browsing the warm season forum.

Let's not be wreckless.

Not everyone here has the same experience level and some folks could have a strict HOA and you'd never know. A yellow lawn could be worse than sedges in that case. In the event that a specific sedge is the target (purple/yellow), you could hit or miss the target with any of these.

It's important that we remember to read labels, know exactly what we are targeting, and understand the risks involved. We're not only here to learn ourselves, but to guide others in the right direction too.

All of that being said I sometimes lose sight of people being aware there are generics. I buy generics if I can but still call them by brand name most of the time. Bad habit I guess.

Sometimes it's hard to remember a brand name and/or AI's. Not to mention thier concentrations.


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## burntfire (Dec 10, 2020)

I've used sedgehammer + dismiss in the same treatment on my Zoysia.

Crushed the sedge (for 5 months).

You will get bronzing but it should recover in 3 - 4 weeks.


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

Timely video

Celcius & Certainty vs Dismiss NXT & ProSedge on Nutsedge & Kyllinga - 10 day trial

[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_LsLhlolDs[/media]

Things he noted were comparable results and same results in turf discoloration.

Worth adding I don't think 10 days was enough time to give Certainty a fair shot to do all it was going to do. He also didn't mention if he used a sufactant with Dismiss NXT + ProSedge, but did note using it with C&C. He didn't give us rates for either combo.


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## TampaBayFL (Jul 24, 2020)

burntfire said:


> I've used sedgehammer + dismiss in the same treatment on my Zoysia.
> 
> Crushed the sedge (for 5 months).
> 
> You will get bronzing but it should recover in 3 - 4 weeks.


I found the limits of sulfentrazone on Zoysia last week😊

I have applied it numerous times before and I've never seen any effects on the Zoysia, but I applied it at the higher rate with surfactant on a day in the 90s and it did lightly burn the areas in which I applied it. Nothing crazy, but one can definitely see spot treated areas in which it was applied. The top half of the grass blades are dessicated.


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

TampaBayFL said:


> I found the limits of sulfentrazone on Zoysia last week😊
> 
> I have applied it numerous times before and I've never seen any effects on the Zoysia, but I applied it at the higher rate with surfactant on a day in the 90s and it did lightly burn the areas in which I applied it. Nothing crazy, but one can definitely see spot treated areas in which it was applied. The top half of the grass blades are dessicated.


What rate did you go down at? I know 12oz/a is max annual, I'm just curious how high you went.


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## TampaBayFL (Jul 24, 2020)

I used 6oz/gal of SedgeEnder (which is 1.36% sulfrentrazone).

I spot sprayed only and did it HEAVY on purpose.


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## Ppb1203 (Jun 17, 2020)

Have been using Certainty with great results last 30 days in my Zoysia. Pricey too start, but can remedy so many other weed nuisances for years.


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