# Soil Test Results



## Jeff120 (Aug 14, 2019)

Hey all, new to the forum, but have been working on my lawn for about 10 years. This is the best soil test I have ever had! It has really come a long way. Last soil test, which was 2-3 years ago I was very low on P, very high in K, PH was about the same. I have really increased my OM since then a well. There was a time when I was applying a bag of milo about every 30-45 days over 2,500 sq feet. This was 2 years ago. This year and last year I have been much more lean on my apps and trying to give the lawn what it actually needs. 
Im in central MD and believe I have a clay, sandy soil. From the looks of the soil test I need about 100 pounds of lime, some boron, which Im not really sure how to calculate how much I need. I believe I can use Borax for that. Also need to make sure Im adding some K for my fall fert apps, little low on Mn and S as well. I appreciate your feedback and analysis on my results below.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Pretty good soil. pH is pretty good. Is the soil sample depth from 0 to 4in?

Your Phosphorus is on the high side. MD has some laws about P. I think you are not allowed to apply any more. That means no Milorganite or bio solids.

Potassium is not deficient, but could be increased to get more reservers. SOP (0-0-50) is the ideal choice but it is hard to find. There are other sources of Potassium.

The rest is all good.


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## Jeff120 (Aug 14, 2019)

g-man,
Thank you for checking it out. Yes to the depth, I used a soil sampler to get down into the root zone. 
Should I add some lime to bump the PH up a little or not worry about it? 
What about the boron? 
Thanks again for the assistance.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Yes, you should add lime. They recommend 50 lb/1000 sq ft. When are you seeding? Ideally you would have added lime several months ago. If you have a couple of weeks before seeding, you could add it now. However, your pH isn't terrible and I think it could wait until later in the fall after your new grass is growing.

I have added boron mixed with Milorganite. I went looking to see what directions there might be on boron and found this article:
https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/why_does_boron_show_up_on_my_soil_test_report
Note that this is emphasized: "Boron fertilizer should not be applied if grasses including hay, pasture, turf, small grains or corn are sown immediately following application."


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

And use a calcitic lime to avoid increasing the Mg.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

It is very unusually for any micronutrient, including boron, to be at soil levels deficient for turfgrasses.
You can find formulas for calculating micro amounts in my soil test thread.
Sufficiency ranges fall between .4 and 1.5 ppm. Amounts greater than 5 ppm can be toxic to plants.
0.1 ppm is .2 lbs of boron/acre
.2 lbs is 3.2 oz. or 90.5 grams of boron/acre
That's 2.08 grams/M
To raise boron soil levels by .1 ppm (theoretically, but in reality due to soil dynamics it will result in something less than 0.1 ppm) you will need to add 2.08 grams/M of boron.
Borax is 11% boron, that's 19 grams of Borax/M to raise levels 0.1 ppm.
Recommend that annual application not exceed 416 grams/M of Borax and, better yet, suggest that each application every 60-90 days not exceed 45 grams/M of Borax.


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## Jeff120 (Aug 14, 2019)

Virginiagal said:


> Yes, you should add lime. They recommend 50 lb/1000 sq ft. When are you seeding? Ideally you would have added lime several months ago. If you have a couple of weeks before seeding, you could add it now. However, your pH isn't terrible and I think it could wait until later in the fall after your new grass is growing.
> 
> I have added boron mixed with Milorganite. I went looking to see what directions there might be on boron and found this article:
> https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/why_does_boron_show_up_on_my_soil_test_report
> Note that this is emphasized: "Boron fertilizer should not be applied if grasses including hay, pasture, turf, small grains or corn are sown immediately following application."


I am not seeding, knock on wood! First time in years I haven't had to overseed. Once I start lowering my deck, I may have a few thin spots, but no major seeding is planned. 
Thanks for the boron link. If I am understanding it correctly, I need about 1 teaspoon of borax per 1,000? Is it really that small of an amount?


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## Jeff120 (Aug 14, 2019)

g-man said:


> And use a calcitic lime to avoid increasing the Mg.


Good catch, thanks. What is the ca/mg ratio I want to shoot for?


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

It is very unusually for any micronutrient, including boron, to be at soil levels deficient for turfgrasses.
You can find formulas for calculating micro amounts in my soil test thread.
Sufficiency ranges fall between .4 and 1.5 ppm. Boron at relatively low levels is toxic to plants.
0.1 ppm is .2 lbs of boron/acre
.2 lbs is 3.2 oz. or 90.5 grams of boron/acre
That's 2.08 grams/M
To raise boron soil levels by .1 ppm (theoretically, but in reality due to soil dynamics it will result in something less than 0.1 ppm) you will need to add 2.08 grams/M of boron.
Borax is 11% boron, that's 19 grams of Borax/M to raise levels 0.1 ppm.
Strongly recommend that *annual* soil application not exceed 90 grams/M of Borax and, suggest that each soil application (90 days) not exceed 45 grams/M of Borax.


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## Jeff120 (Aug 14, 2019)

Ridgerunner said:


> It is very unusually for any micronutrient, including boron, to be at soil levels deficient for turfgrasses.
> You can find formulas for calculating micro amounts in my soil test thread.
> Sufficiency ranges fall between .4 and 1.5 ppm. Boron at relatively low levels is toxic to plants.
> 0.1 ppm is .2 lbs of boron/acre
> ...


Ridgerrunner, thank you, that is the info I was looking for. I read through your soil test thread, at .4ppm Im not deficient, but I would be in the what optimal conditions you talk about in your soil test thread. If Im understanding correctly. To raise up .1ppm I am treating about 2,500 sq feet, so I could very safely spread 46 grams of Mule team borax over that area and be fine and raise it about .1ppm. Then about 90 days later or even in the spring do that again to bump me into the more optimal range. I would mix that amount with my first fall fert app once the temps drop a little more.
Am I correct here?


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

> Am I correct here?


Sorry, not really.
Your math is correct.
However:
1. Either you misunderstood "my" definition of optimal or I've done a poor job of expressing it. "Optimal" is defined as that level at which any further addition of nutrient will not result in turf positive response. It is not some universal number and it is dependent on a number of factors which are specific to individual stands of turf. 
The "CONDENSED VERSION FOR USING SOIL TESTS
A Somewhat EASY, SIMPLE METHOD for Determining Fertilizer Rates and Nutrient Levels to Achieve Optimal Nutrient Levels" or hybrid MLSN is a method for determining "optimal" nutrient levels.
2. The suggested micro-nutrient levels (including those for Boron) were developed from studies of crop requirements and, for lack of turf specific data, have been adopted to provide guidance in determining levels within which those nutrients should be sufficient for turf needs. For now, any level that falls within that range might be "optimal" for plants in general. But... it is known that turf only requires about 25% of the amount of boron required by other plants. Food for thought.
3. Although a significant amount of Boron is contained in most soils, it locked up in the mineral portion of the soil and very little slowly becomes available to the plant. The majority of plant available Boron comes from soil organic matter. In the rare instances where B levels have been found deficient for turf, it's been in sandy soils, with high rainfall and OM levels below 2%.
4. The best method for determining the sufficiency of trace nutrients (including boron) is by having a tissue test performed.
5.The recommended foliar application rate for crops is .25 lbs of sodium borate (Borax) per acre. That's 2.6 grams per M.

Based on the fact that your 0.4 ppm level is within the suggested range, that turf uses 1/4 the amount of B as other plants, that the range between deficient and toxic is so narrow for boron, and with an OM of 6.1%, your soil very likely has an abundant sink of B, I'd be very hesitant in adjusting B without a tissue test showing a deficiency.

Can we say that you can safely apply 19 grams/M? Not absolutely. In great part, it would depend on how it is applied and what amount remains on the turf blades, but many have applied B via the method Virginiagirl suggested without adverse effect.

As always the decision is yours and yours alone. It's your soil and lawn.


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## Jeff120 (Aug 14, 2019)

Sounds like its best not to mess with it. The lawn looks the best it has in years. Dont want to ruin a good thing.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Jeff120 said:


> Sounds like its best not to mess with it. The lawn looks the best it has in years. Dont want to ruin a good thing.


Exactly.


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## Jeff120 (Aug 14, 2019)

Following the recommendations from my soil test, I was able to find some 10-0-20 today. 
https://www.jonathangreen.com/product/winter-survival-fall-lawn-food.html

Looks to be a good fall fert to me and exactly what I needed. I was going to just buy some urea and potash(0-0-50) but figured I would try this. Ill split this bag over 2 apps, so about 18 pounds over 2,500 sq feet will give me .75 lbs N and 1.5, K

Also grabbed the mag-i-cal https://www.jonathangreen.com/product/mag-i-cal-acidic-soil-food.html 
The bad just says covers 5,000 sq feet and that it equals 15 bags or lime, but doesnt say how many pounds. Im treating 2,500, with my PH of 6.1 and based on what I gather from the bag I need half a bag.

Last thing I picked up was some pre-m, hi-yield dimensons to start the Spring war POA, Ill apply that when I do the first app of the winterizer around the first of Sept. if the temps are in the lower 80's.

The other other thing Ill need is a final app once it all starts growing, soil test suggested a 21-4-7.

Anyone have feedback on the plan or the products that I will be using? 
Thanks!


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

The mag-I-cal is a fast acting lime and it's fine to use it but if you need 50 lb of lime per 1000 sq ft, you need 50 lb per 1000 sq ft of lime whether it's fast acting or not. Use the bag directions on how much you can use at a time.

The fertilizer should be fine.


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## Jeff120 (Aug 14, 2019)

Well thats deceiving! Guess I wasted the 15.00 thinking I was saving a little money buying the more efficient product. Looks like Ill need more lime. Im guessing their treats 5k means thats the most to put down at a time. So I would only want to put down half this bag a one time if treating 2,500k


Virginiagal said:


> The mag-I-cal is a fast acting lime and it's fine to use it but if you need 50 lb of lime per 1000 sq ft, you need 50 lb per 1000 sq ft of lime whether it's fast acting or not. Use the bag directions on how much you can use at a time.
> 
> The fertilizer should be fine.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Your pH was ok to begin with. The lab is giving the amount of lime to make it ideal. Ordinary lime works slowly over a matter of years, so an application this year of 50 lb/k would have taken care of the pH for a number of years. The fast acting lime dissolves faster and brings up the pH faster. But you can only use so much at a time (whatever they say on the bag). Doing an application twice a year will take care of the pH. Instead of one application of the slow lime which would continue to act for 3-4 years, you'd do two applications a year of the smaller amount, faster acting lime. You're set for the next year. You may do a soil test in the next year or two and you can see how the pH is then. You are using a calcitic lime which avoids the magnesium in ordinary lime (g-man recommended using calcitic lime and I agree that calcitic is better for you). While there is slow acting calcitic lime, most I've seen in the stores is the fast acting kind.


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## Jeff120 (Aug 14, 2019)

Virginiagal said:


> Your pH was ok to begin with. The lab is giving the amount of lime to make it ideal. Ordinary lime works slowly over a matter of years, so an application this year of 50 lb/k would have taken care of the pH for a number of years. The fast acting lime dissolves faster and brings up the pH faster. But you can only use so much at a time (whatever they say on the bag). Doing an application twice a year will take care of the pH. Instead of one application of the slow lime which would continue to act for 3-4 years, you'd do two applications a year of the smaller amount, faster acting lime. You're set for the next year. You may do a soil test in the next year or two and you can see how the pH is then. You are using a calcitic lime which avoids the magnesium in ordinary lime (g-man recommended using calcitic lime and I agree that calcitic is better for you). While there is slow acting calcitic lime, most I've seen in the stores is the fast acting kind.


Thanks for clearing that up. Right my PH is decent, which is why I thought I would get the smaller more economical bag, plus I wanted the Ca. So if the bag says treats 5k, Im treating 2,500k, I would put down 1/2 the bag correct. They said above I would still need the 50lbs per k. The bag of the fast acting I bought is 15lbs, so Im well short on the lbs.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

The lab measures how your soils buffers. Some soils are heavily buffered and it takes a lot of lime to move the needle. Others are lightly buffered and it doesn't take much to make a change but it will bounce around. So using the buffer index that they measured, they determined it would take 50 lb/1000 sq ft of lime to move it to the target pH and keep it there for a good while (years). You will be putting down 6 lb/1000 sq ft with this 15 lb bag. Do that twice a year for 4 years and you will have put down 48 lb/1000 sq ft. It's about the same thing as putting down 50 lb/1000 sq ft of ordinary lime which works for 3-4 years. So you do need 50 lb/1000 sq ft but it can be spread out. Don't consider yourself short by using the fast acting lime, it will work well and get your pH up. It is not as long lived as ordinary lime (because you're using a smaller amount) and the usual procedure is to apply it in fall and spring. So think of the 50 lb recommendation as a total recommendation for the next 3-4 years.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

I looked up the Mag-i-cal label. It's a bag of 22.5 lb. Directions are to apply 4.5 lb/1000 sq ft twice a year (indefinitely) if your pH is above 6.0. It's sort of a maintenance level, to keep pH from dropping. If pH is below 6.0, they recommend 9 lb/1000 sq ft twice a year. So the bag will cover 5000 sq ft at the 4.5 lb/1000 sq ft rate. If you use half a bag now and half in the spring, as you contemplated doing, that will give you 9 lb/1000 sq ft each year and it would take about 5 years to reach the lab recommendation. So using it at that rate is a little under what the lab is recommending but it should be fine, as your pH is pretty good as is. If you want to use the whole bag for each application twice a year, that would give you 18 lb/1000 sq ft yearly and you'll meet the lab recommendation in about 2.5 years. Main thing is not to go over 9 lb/1000 sq ft for an application as that could cause spikes in pH since it is a fast acting lime.


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## Jeff120 (Aug 14, 2019)

Virginiagal said:


> I looked up the Mag-i-cal label. It's a bag of 22.5 lb. Directions are to apply 4.5 lb/1000 sq ft twice a year (indefinitely) if your pH is above 6.0. It's sort of a maintenance level, to keep pH from dropping. If pH is below 6.0, they recommend 9 lb/1000 sq ft twice a year. So the bag will cover 5000 sq ft at the 4.5 lb/1000 sq ft rate. If you use half a bag now and half in the spring, as you contemplated doing, that will give you 9 lb/1000 sq ft each year and it would take about 5 years to reach the lab recommendation. So using it at that rate is a little under what the lab is recommending but it should be fine, as your pH is pretty good as is. If you want to use the whole bag for each application twice a year, that would give you 18 lb/1000 sq ft yearly and you'll meet the lab recommendation in about 2.5 years. Main thing is not to go over 9 lb/1000 sq ft for an application as that could cause spikes in pH since it is a fast acting lime.


Thank you! I was having a hard time wrapping my head around this lime bit and your explanations have cleared it all up. Much appreciated! :thumbup:


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