# TC's John Deere 180SL & 220SL Reel Mowers Restoration



## TonyC (May 17, 2018)

*Welcome to my JD 180SL & 220SL Reel Mower Restoration*

I don't know what Step I'm on in my Lawn 12 Step program, but I'm willing to admit I have a Lawn Problem. It has gotten to the point where I didn't buy just one reel mower at the annual Weeks Auction, I bought FOUR! On top of that I already have two more, a McLean reel and a Honda Harmony rotary, at home? I also have a JD X300 rider I use as my lawn tractor. If I need to cut the grass I have no less that 6 different machines to tackle the job. My wife must think that I've officially lost my mind, heck I think I've lost my mind.

I'll say it again, I bought FOUR new to me reel mowers. Who does that? So now I have a dilemma, which TWO am I going to keep? The plan right now is to keep the 220SL, the TC-22, and the salvage TC-22 for parts, and sell the McLean and the 180SL come spring. Forum members you'll get your chance at the spoils.

Fast forward - It's a month since the Auction, and I'm looking at the 180SL, and the 220SL that need a little sprucing up. Both mowers have Honda engines and run great, the 180 needed a new pull cord (notice it tied to the handle in the picture), and both carbs were cleaned days after I got them home. They and cut paper with no adjustments, but are seriously in need of a backlapping. The 180SL was bogging down a little on drive w/reel engagement, but that was quickly resolved with fresh grease all around. The plan for the 220SL is to swap out the reel and bedknife for a higher cut in the .50" to 1.25" range. It's settled, the 220SL will be overhauled first.



Not long into the tear down, the reel and bedknife are off, and I'm making good progress. I'm checking other items like the groomer and the front roller. The groomer is begging for me to crack it open, so I do, and the front roller has surface rust needing some elbow grease. I pump new grease into the roller for it to only eject muddy water and old grease randomly. It's at this point that I ask myself, why don't I just do this right and tear it down and renew as much as I can while I'm at it. I have no good answer, I'm looking at some rust spots on the frame, belts that should be changed out requiring the engine be pulled, and bearing grease that was applied a little too liberally at every grease zert.

And since I was beginning to clutter up the JD Reel Mower Questions thread, I figured I might as well centralize this. Heck I will probably need to reference the pictures to get all of the nuts and bolts back in the right place.

The X300 in the background just had its carb cleaned due to a low RPM surge that had developed.



I've already overhauled these HOC adjusters.



Looking to switch to a 7 or 9 Blade fairway setup.



Only about 1/10 of the grease remains at this point. I have a pile of blue towels in the corner to prove it. Brush groomer in the background.



Honda Power, after the carb cleaning, she starts on the first pull, and runs smooth.



*Here's the tipping point.* The reel is off, the handle bar is off, the engine is off, and I'm looking at parts that are just begging to be renewed.

*Well, if we're going to do this, then let's do it RIGHT. Here we go!*







Even with the Roller off now, I'm still working on getting this nut off.



The Roller is in really good shape, and moves freely.



Rust Removal



A Hornet mud nest under the cowling.



Best inventory system I could come up with. Many of the parts have gone through the Gunk parts cleaner and Evapo-Rust baths.



*I hope you enjoy the Ride.

Cheers!*


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## walk1355 (May 31, 2018)

cool. I purchased 6 at that same auction. Were you there? We may have spoken to eachother and not realized it!


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## TonyC (May 17, 2018)

Yes, I was there twice! I bought these two in the mid morning loaded up and headed home. Later that evening I checked the Aution only to learn that I won the TC-22. I had a teaser online bid on it, but had kissed it off because earlier a TC-22 went for over $500. I think many of the participants had gotten tired and threw in the towel by the time mine came up around 10pm. After winning it I bought the Salvage TC-22 for $35.


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## TonyC (May 17, 2018)

> Soliciting any and all advice on how to get this nut off. Service manual says Axle Sprocket Retaining Nut Torque 80lb-ft. That and a little rust has me worried about keeping a wrench on it. I put some Penetrating oil and a torch to it yesterday. It's being stubborn.




@crussell Quoted...


> Silly question, it's not reverse thread is it?
> 
> Are you having trouble holding the sprocket/shaft? Or do you have it secured and just are worried about applying too much force?


I bought myself a new 32mm (close to 1 1/4") wrench today just to put a good grab on it, and I've got a breaker bar deep impact socket on the shaft itself. I'm putting a lot of weight on it and it refuses to budge.

As far as being reverse threaded, I've looked up the part (item #7 below) and there is only one part number in the listing, and it shows Req Qty. 2. So I'm making an assumption that since there is not a specific Left and Right that they are threaded the same and thus it would be standard, left to loosen.


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## crussell (Mar 12, 2018)

Hmmm... My next idea would be to retain the nut with the wrench, possibly on the ground to firmly keep it pinned to the ground and try to rattle it loose with a large impact on the shaft, something corded, 1/2" drive or larger.

Just a thought, sounds like you've probably already applied more torque to it by hand but sometimes the impacts can have the right effect.


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## TonyC (May 17, 2018)

crussell said:


> Hmmm... My next idea would be to retain the nut with the wrench, possibly on the ground to firmly keep it pinned to the ground and try to rattle it loose with a large impact on the shaft, something corded, 1/2" drive or larger.
> 
> Just a thought, sounds like you've probably already applied more torque to it by hand but sometimes the impacts can have the right effect.


I have not tried the impact yet, but did bring it down from the garage earlier. I have tried carefully tapping (ok, hitting it) with a hammer and striking it with a punch trying to snap it free. I'm not giving up yet, but I am nearing the point of fine just stay there then.


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## Pete1313 (May 3, 2017)

Nice project. I assume the nut(#7 in the picture) is seized on both sides? If so, I would put the roller on the ground, have a helper(preferably someone with a little weight) sit in the roller and help support it. Take one wrench and put it on one nut and wedge it against the ground. Take another wrench and put it on the other nut with a long cheater bar and try and break it free. A torch on both nuts before trying will help and if you are lucky, they will both loosen up. Personally if the bearings are in good shape, and you can't feel any play, I would leave well enough alone. But understand the full restoration process and leaving no part untouched.


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## TonyC (May 17, 2018)

I got the first one off!

Wishing I had some Sea Foam Deep Creep, I used some regular Sea Foam that I had in the shop, dripping it on the threads. I cannot tell if that truly penetrated (the shaft appears pretty dry), or if I simply smacked the wrench closer to the nut thus transmitting more of the shock to the threads. I continued to use cycles of heat on the nut as well. The impact wrench was a good thought, but it didn't seem to help (I was only able to use it on the shaft).

You can see where about half of the threads were rusted. I'll be using anti-seize paste when it goes back together. I'm surprised to see the clean threads on the inner half.


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## jimbeckel (May 27, 2018)

crussell said:


> Hmmm... My next idea would be to retain the nut with the wrench, possibly on the ground to firmly keep it pinned to the ground and try to rattle it loose with a large impact on the shaft, something corded, 1/2" drive or larger.
> 
> Just a thought, sounds like you've probably already applied more torque to it by hand but sometimes the impacts can have the right effect.


I recently saw a new tool for removing stuck nuts and bolts, I think it is called nut buster or something along those lines. It is an electric coil you place over the nut and you heat it up with a soldering iron type gun to 1,100 degrees and it is heat applied directly on the butane supposedly works really well, I'll see if I can find a link to the product


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## jimbeckel (May 27, 2018)

MD-700 mini ductor II is the tool for removing stubborn nuts and bolts


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## TonyC (May 17, 2018)

Here is the process I used to remove the Auction painted numbers from the JD Green Plastic cover.

Not everybody has these specific tools and products, but I have a Black car and a Black boat (gelcoat), so I have them in my detailing supplies. I used, Novus Plastic polishes & mini polishing pad set for use with a drill.

At the Auction, this is what I started with.


Acetone on a Blue Towel - This knocks down the majority of the auction paint. It will make the surface dull and leave a white haze too.


Not as harsh, next I used Mineral Spirits to clean what ever else I could from the surface before I began polishing.



Step 1 of Polishing - Novus 3 Heavy Scratch Remover on a mini wool polishing pad. This will clean up a majority of the surface. I can still see the outline of the numbers where the auction paint remains or etched the plastic.


Step 2 - Novus 2 Fine Scratch Remover on an orange polishing pad. Starting to look so good that the old scratches are actually the eye sore now. I can still see some of the number outlines.


Step 3 - Novus 1 Plastic Clean & Shine on a yellow polishing pad. This is the point where the plastic is actually shiny, and it's "good enough for me".


Final Results & Products - Each of these steps could be worked longer, but I was able to get the plastic to this point in less than 15 minutes.


Just a final reminder. TEST the surface you're working on FIRST!


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

Holy awesome thread dude. Good work. Gonna be a nice rig when you get done with er.


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## Brackin4au (Jun 13, 2018)

wardconnor said:


> Holy awesome thread dude. Good work. Gonna be a nice rig when you get done with er.


+1


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## TonyC (May 17, 2018)

A little Rattle Can action today.

Put the wire brush and some Dremel sanding to these parts. The overall condition of the parts is pretty good, just trying to put a new protective layer on them. These pics are the primer layer going on.



Taking pics of the bolts for what goes where later.





The rust in this next picture was sanded off and cleaned up prior to paint.


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## SantiCazorla (Sep 2, 2018)

Love these rebuild threads. Very nice work tonyc.


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

SantiCazorla said:


> Love these rebuild threads.


Very much agreed!


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## raymond (May 4, 2018)

@TonyC - great to stumble upon your rebuild journal as I'm researching mowers for the Weeks Auction. Great to see the progress documented - this will turn out to be a fine machine!


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## TonyC (May 17, 2018)

Earlier in this thread I shared a couple of photos that might help you with the Speed link. @TulsaFan might be able to share more on his experience.

How To break the rust free.

Speed Link pieces and parts. I disassembled mine because it was a lot rusted.


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## TonyC (May 17, 2018)

It's raining in Atlanta, and it's supposed to for days to come, so this morning I headed to the shop for some "Reel Fun!"

The earlier replacement parts have been reasonable on the wallet limited to seals, bolts, and chains. You can see from the previous posts that there was grease and grime all over the place, all of that mess is gone now. Most of the parts have taken a thorough rust bath and cleaned further using the bench grinder brush wheel. I renewed the roller bearings that were in pretty good condition. Various bolts got Loctite, while others got anti seize instead.



Bolting up the sides and main frame rails. Probably not going to put the light kit back on. Because of the design of the mount I had to commit to this early on. I'm sure I could just unbolt the engine mount and squeeze it in, but I'm not mowing before or after dark, but check back with me in the FALL.



Adding the Gear Case



Pressing in new seals and renewed bearings.



Roller now attached.



Some new bolt hardware on the bearing housings.



New Left and Right Drive Chains, with temporary adjustments on the roller guides.





Replaced a couple of stripped Side Cover standoffs and nuts. Really considering new side plastics for the final reveal.



Bolted on the height adjusters and reel drive sprocket & guide. The height adjusters have been completely torn down and rebuilt with all new grease and reoriented spring washers.



That sinking feeling when you realize that you missed a part for paint. It's easy enough to take off so come back and paint it soon.



Aside from the engine and handle bar. I've bolted as much as I can back together. I still need to clean up the handle bar and controls. I've got a few nuts and bolts that I can pickup from the hardware store as they are not specialty items. As expected the final purchase items will be a new reel and bedknife, and probably those side covers.


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

Outstanding sir! That will look so awesome when done...


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

Enjoying the read!


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## Bmossin (May 31, 2018)

Good stuff. I am really enjoying this. Makes me want to get one just for the rebuild experience.


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## TonyC (May 17, 2018)

g-man said:


> I'm going to assume you don't want to go below 0.3in in your hoc, so I recommend the fairway hi cut ET17767.
> 
> $37 at greenfarmparts with free shipping this weekend with code JUNE-SHIPPING
> 
> https://greenfarmparts.com/shop/john-deere-knife-et17767/


@g-man Well THAT WAS AN EXPENSIVE POST!

I figured I would take advantage of the free shipping offer, next thing I know, I'm checking out with almost $300 in stuff, new side plastics included. At least, I haven't broken down for a new reel. Yet.

More rain today, let's head back to the shop.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

@TonyC they normally have free shipping on $49 and more. This weekend is on everything.


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## TonyC (May 17, 2018)

Part have arrived, it's Christmas in June!


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## raymond (May 4, 2018)

Legit. Looking forward to seeing that puppy put together and ready for action!


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## Don_Bass (May 2, 2018)

TonyC said:


> Part have arrived, it's Christmas in June!


Where did you purchase the side covers? Unable to find them online.


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## driver_7 (Jun 28, 2018)

Don_Bass said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> > Part have arrived, it's Christmas in June!
> ...


Depending on your model, GreenFarmParts.com has them listed for as far back as the B model. They did not have them for my A model, though.

MT6973 and MT6974 are the part #'s for a 220B listed on their site.


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## ZachUA (Dec 28, 2018)

TonyC said:


> Earlier in this thread I shared a couple of photos that might help you with the Speed link. @TulsaFan might be able to share more on his experience.
> 
> How To break the rust free.
> 
> Speed Link pieces and parts. I disassembled mine because it was a lot rusted.


Thank you for posting these speedlink pics! Just to confirm I am understanding correctly, the speedlink tube just has the pin driven in to act as a spring stop, then the spring is pushed in, then the bolt thing pushed in to compress the spring, then the pin driven through the hole in the bolt thing.

I was also wondering, how difficult is it to remove the engine? from teh frame? How is it attached to the trans?


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## TonyC (May 17, 2018)

ZachUA said:


> TonyC said:
> 
> 
> > Earlier in this thread I shared a couple of photos that might help you with the Speed link. @TulsaFan might be able to share more on his experience.
> ...


Correct. The pin is just to retain the sliding end coupler "thingy", whatever its name is.

The engine is bolted to the mount plate with 4 bolts, very easy to remove. The belts are the only attachment point to the gear housing and drive pulley. Once the engine is loose the belts can be removed and the engine is free except for the throttle cable.

Here is what it will look like with the engine removed.


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## ZachUA (Dec 28, 2018)

TonyC said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> > TonyC said:
> ...


Awesome! So the drive shaft that is coming out of the side of the motor just has a pulley on it and that pulley then a belt which connects it to the trans pulley? I see you can buy a new GX120 motor for pretty cheap, and the governor on my JD260 is acting up. It looks like it will be about 150.00 to have the internal gov replaced, so I considered just buying a new motor and selling the old one to come out roughly the same.


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## Superbigstevie (Aug 12, 2018)

Update? How is it going on the rebuild?


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## Ballistic (Mar 19, 2018)

Did you ever get around to breaking down the old reel to convert it to a 7/9 blade reel?

That's my next step on changing my 260c from an 11 to a 7 blade.


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## claydus (Jun 2, 2019)

Is @TonyC alive?


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## TonyC (May 17, 2018)

I'm alive, just a busy parent these days. BUT, I'm watching that Auction tomorrow. More to come as we go into winter.


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## driver_7 (Jun 28, 2018)

Good luck in the auction!!


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## Reelmower (Jun 23, 2020)

Any updates on replacing the 11 blades to 7 on the 220SL? Thanks


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## TonyC (May 17, 2018)

Reelmower said:


> Any updates on replacing the 11 blades to 7 on the 220SL? Thanks


Not exactly. Maybe things will pick up around Fall and Winter, I have fewer obligations this year.


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