# Kill Lawn & Prep for Sod (Poa Annua & Poa Trivialis problems)



## Cagnomark (May 16, 2021)

I have read many of the historic posts regarding the above topic(s) but still have some questions that I hope someone can help me with.

I live in Northern NJ and have 30,000 sq ft TTTF PRG mix that has really become a 30%-40% Poa Annua and Poa Trivialis mix. I won't go into how I let this happen otherwise this post will be way too long...Let's assume I fixed the problems that caused this (although the neighborhood is full of this stuff which is very problematic).

I've made the decision to kill the lawn and sod with a KBG (probably with a TTTF or PRG mix) (Ouch$$$$). I am staying away from seeding as I am afraid that while waiting for the seed to germinate the Poa twins will take over again. I am hoping the thick new sod will block the sunlight and therefore buy me some time before the poas start growing again. Thoughts?

I am also hoping that I could put down pre-emergent this coming spring to stop the Poa annua from starting up.....although I am not sure I can do that after laying sod down the Sept/Oct before. I have seen mixed opinions on this on the historic forum conversations. Thoughts?

The process I am thinking of following is:
1) Glysophate the lawn starting this week (although I am a little late as the Poa twins are starting to go dormant already).

2) After applying glysophate a few times as needed and ensuring everything is dead, I will till, level and put down 2"-3" of a proper mix of topsoil, peat, sand.

3) I will then put down a 2 mil clear plastic sheeting (solarization) until mid September. Hopefully this will kill whatever remains near the surface and maybe even kill some poa annua and trivialis seeds that are close to the surface.

4) I am thinking of removing the plastic in mid september and then waiting 2 weeks to sod. In these 2 weeks, (during optimal Poa and Triv growing season) while the soil is bare I will kill anything that pops. Is this

5) Then I will sod in late September/Early October.

Thoughts, comments. ideas and changes to the above are welcome. Its also ok to say I am nuts for doing this....the wife does. LOL

Advance thanks to any responders.


----------



## Cook (Apr 29, 2021)

pre-emergent for poa annua needs to go down in fall and in spring. It is most effective with 2 apps in fall with a booster app in the spring time.

For sod, I don't have experience, but have heard that most sod farms battle these same issues and often need to nuke their sites as well. You could very well be bringing in soil with poa in it, albeit I think sod farms often burn the soil which would kill the seeds (where glysophate only kills living plants).

As an FYI - make sure you use traditional glysophate with nothing else added. You don't want a "ground clear" product which lasts 12 months or so. Also, would the clear tarp cause a greenhouse effect and help things grow? I have zero background on doing this.

Lastly, as an FYI, if you seed TTTF, you can use etho at seeding, meaning you can put down your preventative poa application alongside your fall overseeding. This only works with TTTF seeding though.


----------



## spaceman_spiff (Feb 5, 2021)

I have no constructive feedback, but just wanted to say that I let out an audible "wooooooowwwwwwww" when I read you're killing and re-sodding 30k sq ft. :O


----------



## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

Just wondering why you're starting to kill your lawn now when you're not sodding until fall? I would be concerned with erosion and that plastic sheeting is not going to last that long with any storms/winds.


----------



## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

Do you have irrigation for all 30k? If yes I would skip the plastic and fallow the soil. Water like you would if you we're trying to germinate seeds. Do several rounds of glyphosate whenever new germination happens from weeds/grass.

I would do the fall pre emergent on the sod. If you could get the sod down late August early September I think that would be better and give the sod time to take root before pre emergent.


----------



## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

Lawn Whisperer said:


> Just wondering why you're starting to kill your lawn now when you're not sodding until fall? I would be concerned with erosion and that plastic sheeting is not going to last that long with any storms/winds.


I think it's better to kill now like he is planning before the poa a and t start going dormant.


----------



## Old Hickory (Aug 19, 2019)

Cagnomark said:


> Thoughts, comments. ideas and changes to the above are welcome.


Yea. Start a YouTube channel and document your work.


----------



## cleohioturf (Jul 20, 2020)

you dont need to glyphosate and then tarp. I would just glypho multiple times, fallow the area the entire time, more glypho, then lay sod. I would not till the area. Tilling can only bring more seed to surface. If you want to prep the surface anymore before the sod, bring in some compost, fallow that as well since any foreign material brings unknowns. Then lay your sod and do pre em on the sod in fall.

Ultimately, if you have close neighbors and this stuff is active in the area, you still run that risk. It is all over my area, I think my lawn being killed, bringing nice expensive compost in, which helped with organic matter and more exposed ground which meant birds and animals flocked to eating worm, digging, etc., they brought stuff in to my exposed area. Poa is just very active in some areas.


----------



## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

You can also use a harley rake to prep the area being it's so big.


----------



## Cagnomark (May 16, 2021)

Thanks for all the replies....

You know.... good idea....I should take pics and document the process....I should have thought of that.

I do have sprinklers for the 30k (expensive to run but I love turf!!!!).

I will indeed ask the Sod farmers what they do for poa and what they think I should do....once a gain, i should have thought of that...... although these sod farmers don't have much patience from what i can see. Very abrupt people...of course that could just be the NJ way...Lol

I am doing KBG/Fescue or KBG/PRG because 1) I like the way KBG spreads (albeit very slowly). 2) I will need to use pre-emergent in the spring and fall given we have become the poa capital of the world over here....so overseeding is difficult unless you want to "open the door" for the twins to show up. One of the replies pointed out that I may be able to use pre-emergent with TTTF so, I will look into that. Any more info on that would be great....Is it a certain type of TTTF or all TTTF. Never heard of that before.

I am already playing with the idea of doing TTTF for the just the front lawn because TTTF it is more shade tolerant and trees cause a problem for me (backyard is all sun) and more importantly my dogs do not "go" in the front yard so no spots that have to be tended to or filled in.

I've decide to till because my lawn is so compacted (which created great conditions for the poa) and also because I believe the contractors who built the house many years ago just threw grass seed in the back on top of whatever was there so I have rocks amongst other things...so I feel the need to do it. (Once i dug a hole to plant a shrub and found a work boot... I kid you not).

The more I read about solarization the more success I hear about it.....I don't know if I will do it right or if I have enough time for the solirization to really kick in...........but hey...you only live once so why not try it if I can...

My biggest problem is my wife is not happy about what we will do with the dogs as we usually just let them out in the backyard....now ????? not sure. They will end up tearing the plastic I suppose but what is a guy who loves grass to do.....

What will be will be.

Thanks again for the responses and please continue to ponder on my situation as I will begin this crazy expensive process this Friday. All comments and ideas are very welcome


----------



## jimmythegreek (Aug 7, 2020)

For 30k sqft I'd be looking into the extra large rolls and a machine to lay them. I've done some big sod jobs with the standard 10sqft rolls and I wouldnt attempt 30k with it. Too hard to have good seams and outcome with so many pieces.

Honestly you could seed that and have good success. I would prep it well with a tracked skidateer and have it hydroseeded with seed I chose. If you glypho amd fallow like you posted it will be solid. And a fraction of the cost too


----------



## thebmrust (Jun 29, 2020)

Last summer (Aug 2020) our neighbors tilled up and hydroseeded about 30-40,000 sq ft. Their yard look nice.

About 3 weeks later we used a Rotadairon on all 60k then seeded. It... is not as nice. But it is mostly green.

BUT, our property was nearly 100% weed and bare ground for the past 5 years or more.


----------



## NELawn (May 7, 2019)

The way out of poa-a and triv issues is with 100% KBG. It's a pain in the butt for some things, but you will be having poa-and triv come up for years. Only a 100% KBG lawn is going to allow you to pull the poa-a and cut out the triv without re-seeding. If you getting sod anyway, I don't know why you wouldn't get 100% kbg.

Plus KBG allows you to use tenacity at a higher rate. Their is a reason why people with elite lawns go with KBG once they start putting all this work into their lawns, The 60 day germination and waiting period is a small,price to pay to not have to constantly over-seed. A partial KBG lawn will never spread as fast as a full KBG lawn.


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Do you have a quote for the 30k of sod? Can lock in the price (pay for it now)?


----------



## Kissfromnick (Mar 25, 2019)

Before you spend $18-20k on sod and all work needs to be done don't you think it's a little bit too late to roundup poa T ? Most likely some of poa T went dormant already at this time of the year.


----------



## Cagnomark (May 16, 2021)

Yeah...I think KBG is the way to go...These sod farmers are tough to deal with over here though. I might have to go with a KBG mix with TTTF or PRG just becuase the guy at the KBG only sod farm that is reasonable close to my house is a real......"winner".

The quote I have is for 10-11K from just about all of the sod farms I spoke to. None of them yet will lock in now for delivery in Sept/Oct. This is scary but I'm going to take my chances. Fingers crossed. I guess my plans can quickly change to seed if sod is unavailable but I cant imagine that would happen.

Never even heard of hydroseeding before.....Can I choose my seed if I went down that path? I have to look into who does this for NJ. Still worried about seeding with the Poa season being perfect and no pre-emergent & no weed killer for a while......Maybe too much risk for me. Hmmmm. Like i said... though, I will look into this hydroseeding to learn more.

Trust me...I hate spending this money...I've never sodded in my life because of the expense and always found it easy to grow thick turf from seed but.....Poa Triv is tough. Really tough. Especially that when it first grows it looks aloth like regular KBG. When it gets a bit more mature you can identify but uusually by then...You have TRIV here and there and the fight begins.


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Read the renovation guide.

Regardless of sod or seed, you should fallow the soil. That means that you water constantly to make stuff grow and then kill it with round up. Repeat multiple times to get rid of the poa annua. You can then also use tenacity to further limit the weed problems.

I fear the 11k quote will be too low in Sept. I could easily imagine 15k by then (0.50/sqft). And i think this quote is just the sod. Install is a bunch more money. Good quality kbg seed (sod quality) would be around $400 for 50lb and you will need 60lb for this lawn (assuming no extra for any rain downpour).


----------



## Thick n Dense (May 7, 2019)

Provista


----------



## Cagnomark (May 16, 2021)

Yeah...I think KBG is the way to go...These sod farmers are tough to deal with over here though. I might have to go with a KBG mix with TTTF or PRG just becuase the guy at the KBG only sod farm that is reasonable close to my house is a real......"winner".

The quote I have is for 10-11K from just about all of the sod farms I spoke to (Just the sod without any installation). None of them yet will lock in now for delivery in Sept/Oct. This is scary but I'm going to take my chances. Fingers crossed. I guess my plans can quickly change to seed if sod is unavailable but I cant imagine that would happen.

Never even heard of hydroseeding before.....Can I choose my seed if I went down that path? I have to look into who does this for NJ. Still worried about seeding with the Poa season being perfect and no pre-emergent & no weed killer for a while......Maybe too much risk for me. Hmmmm. Like i said... though, I will look into this hydroseeding to learn more.

Trust me...I hate spending this money...I've never sodded in my life because of the expense and always found it easy to grow thick turf from seed but.....Poa Triv is tough. Really tough. Especially that for the fact that when it first grows it looks a lot like regular KBG. When it starts to mature you can identify it but usually by then...the fight begins.

Am I making too much of it….maybe.... And yes, I am extremely worried I am too late for the triv….hoping for the hottest summer ever recorded for NJ so the solarization is as effective as possible.


----------



## Cook (Apr 29, 2021)

I like to hydroseed large areas. My friend owns one so I hired him to come out last fall (you can also rent one). I renovated my side and front lawn. He supplied the equipment, mulch (essentially shredded newspaper), and the glue (which helps prevent washout and aids when seeding on slopes). I supplied the seed, hydretain and tenacity (mesotrione). 30 days after germination I hit it with more tenacity and starter fertilizer.

If you have a small area, seed it yourself with a broadcast spreader, roll it, and then cover with peat moss. The Landzie peat moss spreader works very well.


----------



## jacobpd (May 12, 2020)

Cagnomark said:


> I have read many of the historic posts regarding the above topic(s) but still have some questions that I hope someone can help me with.
> 
> I live in Northern NJ and have 30,000 sq ft TTTF PRG mix that has really become a 30%-40% Poa Annua and Poa Trivialis mix. I won't go into how I let this happen otherwise this post will be way too long...Let's assume I fixed the problems that caused this (although the neighborhood is full of this stuff which is very problematic).
> 
> ...


No matter what you do now. Poa T and Poa A will come back if you are not careful. 
Also, if your neighbor's lawn has them, they will come back again fast as well.

So, my suggestion is not to renovate but try to suppress them.

1) for Poa A, using preemergence twice or three times a year can eventually suppress them very well. 
In May, if you see the Poa A seed head, you can try to pull them out to speed up the process.

My lawn has Poa A infection when I bought my house, but after one year of extensive suppression, they are almost gone.

2) for Poa T, the logic is that do not encourage them to grow. so 
a) Do NOT apply fertilizer in Spring ! 
Instead, apply fertilizer when KBG and TTTF are still growing but Poa T is starting to hibernate. 
Usually, early June. 
My impression is that after May, KBG grows faster than Poa T.

b) Do NOT mow low in Spring! Mowing low when Poa T is actively growing can promote their spreading. 
If your lawn is mainly TTTF, leave them grow as high as possible to weaken Poa T.

c) Overseed TTTF or KBG to those patched area when Poa T start to hibernate, to weaken the Poa T and introduce more competition. 
I know overseeding in early summer is not easy. 
My solution is to grow KBG plug in a spare flower bed and insert them into the Poa T area. Mature KBG plug will survive the summer. Especially, if you plug in June, KBG still has about one month to settle. 
For TTTF, then you must keep watering to help them to survive though summer.

Basically, 
If you want a KBG lawn in the end, just keep putting preemergence to get rid of Poa A and keep adding KBG plugs, they will be mixed with Poa T. Fertilize when KBG is growing but Poa T is NOT. Eventually, the lawn will be more of KBG's color.

If you want a TTTF lawn in the end, then first treat Poa. A for one or two seasons. Then, keep overseeding in fall. 
Again, do not fertilizer in Spring. For TTTF, you can even starve the lawn more to suppress Poa. T. 
Grow TTTF as high as possible. Poa T can be weakened in a dense and high TTTF lawn.

Do not dream to get rid of Poa T 100% anyway. 
Just live with them using the competition from your grass.


----------



## Cook (Apr 29, 2021)

If you want TTTF you can seed in fall in parallel with etho as a preemergent for poa.


----------



## NELawn (May 7, 2019)

If you go the TTTF and Fall over-seeding route, just realize every time you over-seeding in the fall, you are also feeding the poa-a, because your not able to get a pre-m down.

Also realize that tenacity isn't 100% effective, it will suppress some poa-a, but if your watering all the time, some of it will get through and love the conditions your creating for the seed you want to grow,

Lastly the following spring the TTTF, or KBG will be very hungry and want to spread. It needs to be feed for that, so that 1st spring it will be hard to starve it until June. Thats probably opposite of what the sod farms do.

None of this is easy, and one bit of advice collides into another bit of advice. Thats why poa-a and triv is so hard to deal with. I guess thats why hitting it with round up as soon as you see it is good advice.


----------



## Cook (Apr 29, 2021)

NELawn said:


> If you go the TTTF and Fall over-seeding route, just realize every time you over-seeding in the fall, you are also feeding the poa-a, because your not able to get a pre-m down.
> 
> Also realize that tenacity isn't 100% effective, it will suppress some poa-a, but if your watering all the time, some of it will get through and love the conditions your creating for the seed you want to grow,
> 
> ...


This isn't true. If you go TTTF you can seed and apply etho as poa pre-emergent in the fall.

Also, TTTF doesnt spread. Some new cultivars have a slight ability to tiller but from my reading and no direct knowledge, it isn't much.


----------



## Cagnomark (May 16, 2021)

Yeah...I am very worried about being too late. I will be deciding this weekend if I'm going for it and killing the grass & pray that the solarization works on the triv that is already dormant or..... waiting for spring 2022......I am trying to talk to some of these NJ sod farmers to get their perspectives given I am a complete amateur but..... they all seem to have "winning personalities" if you know what I mean. They actually should not be allowed by law to talk to the public and should be hidden away in some dark corner except to take care of their sod. Lol. (I know I am generalizing and being completely unfair...just my NJ experience so far).

I really want this done and over with and on the path to enjoying a great lawn but rushing it may lead to more pain. Maybe I took to long to decide. As you can see.... I'm waffling a bit.

The cost i got quoted from just about every sod farm was around 11K-12K just for the sod (naturally, that is not with the other work and installation).

I continue to be too worried to seed as Sept/Oct is prime Poa season...I don't want to play that game/take that risk although I never heard of hydroseeding before so I will investigate that but I'd imagine it does not change my mind as I worry about the Triv and I'm not sure I can seed with the types of seed I'd want with hydroseeding.... but I know absolutely nothing about it.

I'd like 100% KBG because I want to overseed very very infrequently........but that will be decided by which Sod farm I end up going with...I am going to see which farm I trust more rather than just based on the seed types they use (as long as I like the look)...besides the other problem is none of them will guarantee me sod for the amount I want in Sept/Oct (even if I pay now). Most sod farms around here are KBG/PRG or KBG/TTTF mixes which does indeed tell me something about just going 100% KBG....I did however find one farm yesterday close by where the person was a human and it is 100% KBG but they did not seem very forthcoming with the type of KBG seeds they use. So, if they do not share that (I cant imagine they won't...) then, I will continue to look elsewhere.

Still lots of thinking to do....If I decide to do it this year....I will decide on Sunday and start lawn death on Monday. Last minute thoughts/help with deciding on this is more than welcome......


----------



## Cagnomark (May 16, 2021)

wrote this response a few times...for some reason it has not submitted...hope it does not post multiple times...if so....I apologize.

Yeah...I am very worried about being too late. I will be deciding this weekend if I'm going for it and killing the grass & pray that the solarization works on the triv that is already dormant or..... waiting for spring 2022......I am trying to talk to some of these NJ sod farmers to get their perspectives given I am a complete amateur but..... they all seem to have "winning personalities" if you know what I mean. They actually should not be allowed by law to talk to the public and should be hidden away in some dark corner except to take care of their sod. Lol. (I know I am generalizing and being completely unfair...just my NJ experience so far).

I really want this done and over with and on the path to enjoying a great lawn but rushing it may lead to more pain. Maybe I took to long to decide. As you can see.... I'm waffling a bit.

The cost i got quoted from just about every sod farm was around 11K-12K just for the sod (naturally, that is not with the other work and installation).

I continue to be too worried to seed as Sept/Oct is prime Poa season...I don't want to play that game/take that risk although I never heard of hydroseeding before so I will investigate that but I'd imagine it does not change my mind as I worry about the Triv and I'm not sure I can seed with the types of seed I'd want with hydroseeding.... but I know absolutely nothing about it.

I'd like 100% KBG because I want to overseed very very infrequently........but that will be decided by which Sod farm I end up going with...I am going to see which farm I trust more rather than just based on the seed types they use (as long as I like the look)...besides the other problem is none of them will guarantee me sod for the amount I want in Sept/Oct (even if I pay now). Most sod farms around here are KBG/PRG or KBG/TTTF mixes which does indeed tell me something about just going 100% KBG....I did however find one farm yesterday close by where the person was a human and it is 100% KBG but they did not seem very forthcoming with the type of KBG seeds they use. So, if they do not share that (I cant imagine they won't...) then, I will continue to look elsewhere.

Still lots of thinking to do....If I decide to do it this year....I will decide on Sunday and start lawn death on Monday. Last minute thoughts/help with deciding on this is more than welcome......


----------



## cleohioturf (Jul 20, 2020)

if you tarp you need summer heat to get a good kill, so you arent late, but maybe too late for triv. best approach with triv is to just go light on irrigation, let it die, hit the spring with N to help the KBG fill.

do you have a good country club around you could ask the super where they get sod?

ultimately, I think you need to realize you will have some issues, prepare for that so you dont go crazy for years.


----------



## Cook (Apr 29, 2021)

Cagnomark said:


> I continue to be too worried to seed as Sept/Oct is prime Poa season...I don't want to play that game/take that risk although I never heard of hydroseeding before so I will investigate that but I'd imagine it does not change my mind as I worry about the Triv and I'm not sure I can seed with the types of seed I'd want with hydroseeding.... but I know absolutely nothing about it.


hydroseeding doesnt change anything. It is literally a tank that is filled with water, mulch (shredded newspaper), glue, and then seed. You can put any seed you want in there. You can rent the machine yourself, or hire someone. If you call any local landscaper, they likely do it. They either own or rent the machine too. All you have to say is that you want to provide the seed. Hydroseeding is literally just mixing the seed in with something to help keep it moist and thus improves germination. It is much faster than seeding and then top dressing with peat moss or top dressing with compost (and risking weeds being introduced).


----------



## Cagnomark (May 16, 2021)

I have tried to post this a bunch of times but for some reason having difficulty….Apologies in advance if this gets posted multiple times…..

Yeah...I am very worried about being too late. I will be deciding this weekend if I'm going for it and killing the grass & pray that the solarization works on the triv that is already dormant or..... waiting for spring 2022......I am trying to talk to some of these NJ sod farmers to get their perspectives given I am a complete amateur but..... they all seem to have "winning personalities" if you know what I mean. They actually should not be allowed by law to talk to the public and should be hidden away in some dark corner except to take care of their sod. Lol. (I know I am generalizing and being completely unfair...just my NJ experience so far).

I really want this done and over with and on the path to enjoying a great lawn but rushing it may lead to more pain. Maybe I took to long to decide. As you can see.... I'm waffling a bit.

The cost i got quoted from just about every sod farm was around 11K-12K just for the sod (naturally, that is not with the other work and installation).

I continue to be too worried to seed as Sept/Oct is prime Poa season...I don't want to play that game/take that risk although I never heard of hydroseeding before so I will investigate that but I'd imagine it does not change my mind as I worry about the Triv and I'm not sure I can seed with the types of seed I'd want with hydroseeding.... but I know absolutely nothing about it.

I'd like 100% KBG because I want to overseed very very infrequently........but that will be decided by which Sod farm I end up going with...I am going to see which farm I trust more rather than just based on the seed types they use (as long as I like the look)...besides the other problem is none of them will guarantee me sod for the amount I want in Sept/Oct (even if I pay now). Most sod farms around here are KBG/PRG or KBG/TTTF mixes which does indeed tell me something about just going 100% KBG....I did however find one farm yesterday close by where the person was a human and it is 100% KBG but they did not seem very forthcoming with the type of KBG seeds they use. So, if they do not share that (I cant imagine they won't...) then, I will continue to look elsewhere.

Still lots of thinking to do....If I decide to do it this year....I will decide on Sunday and start lawn death on Monday. Last minute thoughts/help with deciding on this is more than welcome......


----------



## NELawn (May 7, 2019)

Cook said:


> This isn't true. If you go TTTF you can seed and apply etho as poa pre-emergent in the fall.
> 
> Also, TTTF doesnt spread. Some new cultivars have a slight ability to tiller but from my reading and no direct knowledge, it isn't much.


Thanks, I didnt know what etho or Poa Constrictor was and had to look it up. I guess the reason why is that "Poa Constrictor" is for use with TTTF and doesn't like KBG, just like it's not a great idea to spray Tenacity on FF at seeding. in fact even mature FF hates tenacity in my experience.

In any case I still stand by no pre-m is 100% effective and by suppling food and water to get your seed going, you should expect some Poa-a and triv to sneak through.

There is just no magic spray thats going to make all the bad stuff go away, until maybe Poacure gets here for home use


----------



## pseudodennis (Apr 19, 2021)

Cook said:


> Lastly, as an FYI, if you seed TTTF, you can use etho at seeding, meaning you can put down your preventative poa application alongside your fall overseeding. This only works with TTTF seeding though.


I'm doing a TTTF reno this Fall and am curious about this "etho." My plan at this point (very open to change) is to put seed down with the Scotts starter + weed preventer which has the tenacity active ingredient. (The granules have the added benefit of being foolproof as opposed to a spray.)

Would etho be a better choice for fescue, in your opinion?


----------



## Cook (Apr 29, 2021)

pseudodennis said:


> Cook said:
> 
> 
> > Lastly, as an FYI, if you seed TTTF, you can use etho at seeding, meaning you can put down your preventative poa application alongside your fall overseeding. This only works with TTTF seeding though.
> ...


yes, etho is a better option by far. Anything that tenacity will prevent over etho will die over winter or is curable in many post-emergent herbicides.


----------



## Scagfreedom48z+ (Oct 6, 2018)

Cook said:


> pseudodennis said:
> 
> 
> > Cook said:
> ...


I'm going to apply both tenacity/etho at seed down for my tttf overseed. Hit it again at 4 weeks with etho and at the 6 week mark, hit it again with tenacity as well. Hopefully I'll be able to get a 3rd app of etho in but realistically, I'll probably finish it off with prodiamine . Even with this NE heat, I still have quite a bit of Poa A that is in shade and hasn't been phased by the heat


----------



## Kissfromnick (Mar 25, 2019)

Cagnomark said:


> Yeah...I am very worried about being too late. I will be deciding this weekend if I'm going for it and killing the grass & pray that the solarization works on the triv that is already dormant or..... waiting for spring 2022......I am trying to talk to some of these NJ sod farmers to get their perspectives given I am a complete amateur but..... they all seem to have "winning personalities" if you know what I mean. They actually should not be allowed by law to talk to the public and should be hidden away in some dark corner except to take care of their sod. Lol. (I know I am generalizing and being completely unfair...just my NJ experience so far).
> 
> I really want this done and over with and on the path to enjoying a great lawn but rushing it may lead to more pain. Maybe I took to long to decide. As you can see.... I'm waffling a bit.
> 
> ...


Keep in mind sod will come with bonus as well


----------

