# White Fly affecting large ficus Florida late fall



## William13 (Oct 24, 2020)

Hello this is my very first post on this forum and I hope I use it correctly. I didn't know whether to post this under hard Trees
Or pests. Please feel free to move posts if you feel I've posted it wrong.

As I mentioned I live in South Florida. Although it is late for the weather is still 85 to 92°.
I have a very large ficus tree, I'll try to post a picture if I can. It has four trunks that measures 50 inches 50" 40 inches and 40 inches. I'm pretty sure I have white fly.
The tree overhangs a Clusia hedge.
I noticed what I believe is black sooty mold
On the hedge. 
I feel because my ficus tree is 22 to 25 feet tall that I probably should use a systemic. But I don't know if it's a good idea in the late fall. 
I was thinking of merit or Dominion 2l for the systemic and I was thinking of triple action for the hedge. 
Wondering if the experienced people of this form could chime in and tell me if they think this is a good idea and also help me with some of the specifics and calculated amount to be administered. Thank you
Bill


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## William13 (Oct 24, 2020)




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## William13 (Oct 24, 2020)

The leaves I'm holding in my hand come from the ficus tree


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## 440mag (Jan 29, 2018)

Wow, this is quite a situation on several fronts. For one, the insects laying this eggs appear to be to using the tree leaves as hosts and not for food so, not sure what good Merit would do?

To be honest, I would run not walk to my local Univ FLA Cooperative Extension Service Office / Agent - with the citrus industry in FL no doubt they can find you THE EXACT answer / solution to saving that tree!

http://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/find-your-local-office/


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## William13 (Oct 24, 2020)

Thank you for taking the time to look at my situation. How did you make the determination thay are not eating the leaves? Do the leaves usually look different in that situations?
I have never taken advantage of my extensions. Can one communicate issues to these extensions without visting in person? By chose I am limiting travels during as Corona is peaking in my locale
Bill


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## 440mag (Jan 29, 2018)

Hi, Bill!

Oh yes, I hear you on social distancing - smart! :thumbup:

If you use that link I provided (above) you should be able to contact your County's Extension Service via either phone or preferably email and send them the photos you posted here. With the fruit-growing industry as big as it is in FL I've no doubt there are scores of experts in FLA specifically on dealing with the insects that excrete the "honeydew" that causes black sooty mold on plants.

To be honest, I Googled "black sooty mold on ficus leaves" and the results focus on the "honeydew" substance left by the insects sucking the sap from the plant(s) as setting the stage for the onset of the mold.

The insects can sap the tree of energy as the insects are after the sap and I erred in thinking that just because I don't see any visual evidence of the insects eating the leaves (no chew marks, etc.) that the insects aren't damaging the tree slowly. And, even though the literature brought up by a Google search doesn't mention it, those white clusters definitely indicate to me that some insect(s) is / are using the leaves as a place to lay their eggs.

Below is an excerpt from an excellent article (Read Entire article Here: https://ag.umass.edu/landscape/fact-sheets/sooty-mold )

_*Host Plants*
Sooty mold fungi are decomposers that break down honeydew or naturally exuded plant materials as their source of nutrition. They do not directly draw any sustenance from the host plant on which they reside. However, sooty mold that covers leaves blocks light and makes photosynthesis less efficient. Honeydew excreted by piercing sucking insects such as *mealybugs, leafhoppers, scales and aphids* serves as the growth medium for sooty mold fungi. Insect honeydew contains sugars, amino acids, proteins, minerals, and vitamins.

Armed with the above knowledge, Merit might not be a bad idea or, at the very least, the active ingredient in Merit, which is *imidacloprid*. Unfortunately, brand name Merit is pretty pricey! https://www.domyown.com/merit-2f-insecticide-p-3929.html

*Because we have so many large trees and shrubs on our estate, we have found an economical alternative to Merit is this product*: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ferti-Lome-Tree-Shrub-Systemic-Bug-Beetle-Larvae-Insect-Repel-Drench-2-5-Gallon/191605867?wmlspartner=wmtlabs&adid=22222222222060708921&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=s&wl2=c&wl3=17602476343&wl4=pla-4578778753753185&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&%20wl10=Walmart&wl12=191605867_10000002030&wl14=fertilome%20tree%20drench&veh=sem&msclkid=ac1e0c7da4431ec00d4953eb8e8d07d6

*Ferti-Lome Tree Shrub Systemic Bug Beetle Larvae Insect Repel Drench 2.5 Gallon SYSTEMIC DRENCH 2.5Gallon jug - Controls adelgids, leaf beetles, vine weevils larvae, leafhoppers, round headed borders, flat headed bronze birch, leaf miners, mealy bugs, pine top moth larvae, Japanese beetles, adult psyllids, lace bugs, royal palm bugs, sawfly larvae, scales, thrips and whiteflies. Size: 2.5 gallon. Contains imidacloprid*

We go through one 2-1/2 gal jug on our property alone every March / April and once it arrives the label tells you how to measure your around your trunks' circumferences got determine to amount to apply. Personally, I would get at least one 2-1/2 gal jug and apply it to the soil around not only your ficus but also ALL the shrubs etc in your yard._


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## 440mag (Jan 29, 2018)

Update: actually, I just remembered I saved the label to our Favorites as we use the stuff every year, like clockwork.

Here is the label: https://www.domyown.com/msds/FL%20Tree%20Shrub%20Systemic%20Insect%20Drench%20Approved%20090611.pdf

As I said, were I you I would order a 2-1/2 gal jug and apply it to everything in your yard NOW and then again next April/May.

Given the extent of your situation I (personally) would also give the undersides of all plants and shrubs across the entire property a good spray of Bifenthrin: https://www.domyown.com/talstar-professional-insecticide-p-97.html

BUT *ONLY IF THERE IS POSITIVELY NO BEE ACTIVITY AT THIS TIME OF YEAR IN YOUR LOCALE!* (Bifenthrin is highly toxic to pollinators and "good bees"!!!!!)


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## 440mag (Jan 29, 2018)

PS - *WELCOME TO TLF*.com !!!!!! :thumbup:

Good FLA specific articles:

"_The way to control sooty mold is to stop it before it gets started and the way to do that is to control the aphid and the whitefly_:" http://blogs.ifas.ufl.edu/okaloosaco/sooty-mold/

Less toxic alternatives: http://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/media/sfylifasufledu/baker/docs/pdf/horticulture/BlackSootyMoldonLandscapePlants.pdf

https://gardendownsouth.com/how-to-remove-black-sooty-mold/


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## William13 (Oct 24, 2020)

So firstly thank you very much on your thoroughness and the gracious amount of time you spent on answering my questions
We have no Bees on my property. I had read about Merit and thought it to be reasonable and when I contacte DYO website they mentioned Dominion 2L which is generic Merit and I ordered it. I noticed the concentration of imidacloprid is much higher with Dominion 2L and Merit than the Fertilome product. I was going to drench the tree in imidacloprid. I guess I can figure out how to dilute it so its like the drench you mentioned. I did buy a pint of Fertilome triple action to spray the Clusia which has the Sooty Mold on it. I will also spray that with Bifenthrin. I would also like to spray the 30 foot ficus just as a temporary measure as I believe it has whitefly and perhaps even also aphids. I was looking into using Fertilome on that also (triple action). As soon as I gain control I would back off and try to be more green and organic and less toxic.

What do you think?

Thanks again

Bill


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## William13 (Oct 24, 2020)

Spoke to Univ FLA Cooperative Extension Service Office today about the situation. They echoed your comments. Went on to say I could sacrifice the tree because otherwise I will be doing this all the time. Also cautioned me regarding the invasiveness of the roots of the ficus. It is sad to think about removing a tree that has survived over 10 major hurricanes over 50 years. I am not ready to go that route yet.
So I will drench.....pray and spray!


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## 440mag (Jan 29, 2018)

William13 said:


> So firstly thank you very much on your thoroughness and the gracious amount of time you spent on answering my questions
> We have no Bees on my property. I had read about Merit and thought it to be reasonable and when I contacte DYO website they mentioned Dominion 2L which is generic Merit and I ordered it. I noticed the concentration of imidacloprid is much higher with Dominion 2L and Merit than the Fertilome product. I was going to drench the tree in imidacloprid. I guess I can figure out how to dilute it so its like the drench you mentioned. I did buy a pint of Fertilome triple action to spray the Clusia which has the Sooty Mold on it. I will also spray that with Bifenthrin. I would also like to spray the 30 foot ficus just as a temporary measure as I believe it has whitefly and perhaps even also aphids. I was looking into using Fertilome on that also (triple action). As soon as I gain control I would back off and try to be more green and organic and less toxic.
> 
> What do you think?
> ...


Howwwwwdee! LOL, sorry for the lag in replying (I'm TERRIBLE about checking in here unless I have my own crisis, haha! :lol: Just finished push mowing an acre and a half 21" row at a time and now I am so sore alls I can do is "blob" in my recliner and catch up on my iPad!

I dig your plan and share your sentiment about going less toxic once you gain some kind of control.

Oh my! Sacrificing that regal ficus never even entered my mind but then, I don't deal with hundreds of these situations a month like the extension agents do. I am sooooooooo glad you had a positive experience and that they were responsive (they are a sorely under-utilized resource and for the most part wonderful, dedicated Professionals! :thumbup:

Really rootin' for you (and the plants!) and you are so welcome - it is hard to quantify the help, advice, hand-holding, counsel, guidance, instruction, feedback and occasionally tough love that I have received from so many gracious members here on TLF (some of whom are truly experts! :thumbup:

One side of my entire family is from So FL and my Dads Moms family settled in the Keys in the late 1800's and early 1900's - after traditional piracy went out of vogue. Which is ironic as my Dads Dad wound retiring a LTC in the Coast Guard and spent most of his Commissioned days battling it out (quite literally!) with the rum runners during Prohibition - my bp goes up just reading that mans autobiography!

Happy Halloween!


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## William13 (Oct 24, 2020)

Ha! Enjoyed your last post. You are the first member I have me and I am 100% impressed and greatful.
I am sure we will connect again as I post my updates.
Bill


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## William13 (Oct 24, 2020)

Last Fall got rid of white fly with Dominion. Now this started in the same large ficus tree. I think its "scale" web says spray oil but tree is very tall.

What should I use?
Bill


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## William13 (Oct 24, 2020)

? what now


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## 440mag (Jan 29, 2018)

William13 said:


> ...Now this started in the same large ficus tree. ...





William13 said:


> ? what now


Ouch. FRS is a b*tch as it is under "Biological Control". "Biological" as opposed to chemical or even cultural ... to wit:

*Biological Control*
_Most native and some exotic scale insect pests are attacked by a number of parasitoid wasps, which often keeps them below damaging levels (Ehler 1995, Dale and Frank 2014; Meineke et al. 2014). Other natural enemies such as lady beetles (Figure 8), lacewings, and predacious midges may also provide supplemental control of scale populations. However, biological control in urban landscapes may struggle due to warmer temperatures, lack of alternative resources, or lack of vegetation refuges for natural enemies (Raupp et al. 2010; Meineke et al. 2014). To maximize potential biological control, provide habitat for natural enemies and reduce temperatures by increasing the amount and diversity of plants in the landscape._

Read here: https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg005


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## William13 (Oct 24, 2020)

Thank you! That is interesting reading. Right now I would say less than 10% of the tree is affected. I did not even see it happening until yellow leaves fell on the gound and I inspected them with my native eye and magnifier of my iphone. I have the changed my diagnosis somewhat but I don't know if it make a difference. I diagnosed my tree as having FRS but with Iphone magnification (and with magnification, one can see this on my photos above), I now know I have this(http://entnemdept.ufl.edu/creatures/orn/scales/fig_wax_scale.htm) ie fig wax scale.


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