# Time to try this again



## Ewc88 (Apr 3, 2019)

Well it's that time of year again and this year I'm giving it another shot and hopefully with better success. With that I will need some more help and guidance.

I have looked on green cast and my 5 year average shows my soul temp hitting 50.8 degrees right around March 28th, so I am looking at doing my pre-emergent then. I was going to go out and order some offline like the YouTubers show but from ready on here that getting any from local store is no problem I realized to change that approach.

A question though regarding pre-emergent is should one get a weed and feed or just a weed killer? When looking at my Lowe's/HD or tractor supply (all I have) I have either or option. Which then after picking that route opens up to which brand to get. Also should it be the granular or buy the concentrate weed killer for lawns that HD sells and use that?

When ready the guide, I either missed it multiple times or not mentioned, but after your pre-emergent how far after are you then fertilizing? Most of everything I do will be buying from the stores by me. Milo sells pretty fast so if you suggest that I'll load up, but I have also been reading a lot of people using Urea, which I never heard of nor not sure where to purchase locally.


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## jha4aamu (Oct 16, 2017)

Your typical Scotts Weed and feed products are going to have something like 2-4D which isnt a pre-emergent. Its going to kill the weeds that are already present. For pre-emergent, you want to get something with prodiamine or dithiopyr. My local HD usually carries a Scott's or Lesco brand product with one of those two or you can buy them online.

Alot of people here use urea because its cheap, 46% Nitrogen, and can be easily dissolved and sprayed for even coverage. I dont use Milo often, but when I do its usually during the summer months.


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## JeffR84 (Apr 25, 2020)

Weed killer or weed and feed isn't the same as a pre-emergent. You want to look for something that is labeled something like "crabgrass preventer".

Here are some examples LESCO 50-lb 14800-sq ft 0-0-7 Crabgrass Preventer https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lesco-LESCO-Stonewall-Crabgrass-Preventer-0-0-7/5001213041

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Scotts-Turf-Builder-13-58-lb-5-000-sq-ft-Halts-Crabgrass-Preventer-Lawn-Fertilizer-32367D/100619062?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&mtc=Shopping-B-F_D28O-G-D28O-28_2_FERTILIZERS-NA-NA-NA-SMART-NA-NA-SMART_SHP&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D28O-G-D28O-28_2_FERTILIZERS-NA-NA-NA-SMART-NA-NA-SMART_SHP-71700000064087486-58700005695909825-92700051963344737&gclid=Cj0KCQjwrsGCBhD1ARIsALILBYr-asT8WJfV4aieoodI5K1e1WUq2A1V9fLW_IZvxNLqVye6C4UCXZgaAswsEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


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## CoopyHarry (Sep 26, 2020)

I used the Lesco stonewall this year just Sunday actually from Lowe's. First time I have seen it there. It's priced reasonable if you don't or can't get into spraying

That one doesn't have the N added


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

@Ewc88 - what's your current weed situation like, is it all over & you're needing to do a broadcast app? Or can you get by with spot spraying. Also, what kinds of weeds are you dealing with? The typical big-box herbicides are generally meant to get the basic broadleaf weeds, which account for the majority of winter weeds but it's good to know what you're trying to accomplish before putting product down.


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## Harts (May 14, 2018)

There isn't really a correlation between your preM and fertilizer apps.

As mentioned above, you are looking for a product that has prodiamine or dithiopyr as the active ingredient. These are true pre-emergents. You can also look at domyown, who will sell Barricade (prodiamine) and dimension (dithiopyr).

Weed killers are post-emergents - used after weeds have already germinated. They offer a much different mode of action the pre-emergents, which act to prevent weeds from even germinating.

Urea is a great product to use in during a "Fall Nitrogen Blitz", where you go hard on the nitrogen before your grass starts to go dormant for the Winter. It is quick release nitrogen and is available to the plant immediately. Most other fertilizers will have some quick release N but will mostly be made up of slow release nitrogen sources.

As for when to apply nitrogen in the Spring....I generally apply 1lb of N per 1,000 sq. ft. towards the end of April/early May. My pre-em app goes down when my soil temps are steady in the 50F range - which for me is around the middle of April.


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## Ewc88 (Apr 3, 2019)

Both options listed of pre-emergents Jeff stated I can get locally and are in stock. I was prior looking at the Lesco brand to try. Last year I believe I used sta-green and had mixed reviews on it. BUT that could of been cause I'm still so new and I'm not sure on how often to put down, and all that.

Luckily my main focus is my front yard. My back yard is going to be getting some concrete work done, and also looking at getting the yard regraded so the rear yard is going be destroyed sadly.

Last year I had issues with crabgrass and dandelions. We will see what this year brings.

My plan is to go out and rake the front yard to get all the dead grass out and to get the good grass as much sun light as possible. Right after throw down some pre-emergent. Then from there lost with if I need to do more and when, fertilizers, post emergents.


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## Harts (May 14, 2018)

Ewc88 said:


> Both options listed of pre-emergents Jeff stated I can get locally and are in stock. I was prior looking at the Lesco brand to try. Last year I believe I used sta-green and had mixed reviews on it. BUT that could of been cause I'm still so new and I'm not sure on how often to put down, and all that.
> 
> Luckily my main focus is my front yard. My back yard is going to be getting some concrete work done, and also looking at getting the yard regraded so the rear yard is going be destroyed sadly.
> 
> ...


Don't overthink it. You can do a split app (2 apps in the Spring) if you have an issue with crabgrass. You can do these approx. 6-8 weeks apart. You can then apply another app in the Fall. There is always a maximum annual rate that you shouldn't exceed. This is going to vary by product and should be spelled out on the label. You can do 3 splits apps, 2 half apps or 1 heavy app. Most will do 3 apps over the course of the season.

Post emergents should only need to be used if weeds pop up. If you time your pre-emergent app right, you really should need weed killer.

As with fertilizer, you can probably start applying mid to late April. I would suggest posting this question to other NJ members in the Hometown thread to get an idea when people local to you start throwing down fert.


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## Ewc88 (Apr 3, 2019)

Got the Lesco stone wall so ready when soil temps get up. Question with green cast is everyone going by today's average or the box on the map that says the temp? I ask because today's average was 47 but in the box on map it said it was 64 degrees. When I check the 5 year average by the 28th it's 50.6, which was when I was going start throwing down the Lesco.


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## Copat (Mar 20, 2021)

@jha4aamu is there any detailed info on how to properly dissolve urea with water for spraying? Definitely interested in trying that out vs spreading.


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## jha4aamu (Oct 16, 2017)

Copat said:


> @jha4aamu is there any detailed info on how to properly dissolve urea with water for spraying? Definitely interested in trying that out vs spreading.


Its pretty straightforward. Warm water and urea. It dissolves pretty easily


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## Lawn Noob (Jul 26, 2020)

jha4aamu said:


> Copat said:
> 
> 
> > @jha4aamu is there any detailed info on how to properly dissolve urea with water for spraying? Definitely interested in trying that out vs spreading.
> ...


I've never bothered to use warm water. It still always dissolved easily for me. I mix it in a. 5 gallon bucket and then pour into my sprayer.


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## Copat (Mar 20, 2021)

@LawnNoob Awesome! I'm going to do that. I'm going to start spoon feeding weekly. This may be a fun question but since it's already dissolved in water does that eliminate the need for watering shortly after? Or is there still a risk for burning blades?

I guess my other concern is the area I will need to spray is 25,000sqft which is about 6.25lbs weekly. I guess the simplest way would be to mix half in the 5 gallon bucket - spray then mix the rest and finish up


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## Harts (May 14, 2018)

Copat said:


> @LawnNoob Awesome! I'm going to do that. I'm going to start spoon feeding weekly. This may be a fun question but since it's already dissolved in water does that eliminate the need for watering shortly after? Or is there still a risk for burning blades?
> 
> I guess my other concern is the area I will need to spray is 25,000sqft which is about 6.25lbs weekly. I guess the simplest way would be to mix half in the 5 gallon bucket - spray then mix the rest and finish up


You can let the spay sit on the blade for a few hours (or overnight) but I would wash it off to prevent burning the blades.

Also, be careful with your rates when spraying. I never mix more than 0.24lb N and usually spray half that at 0.12lb N.


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## Copat (Mar 20, 2021)

@Harts thank you! So I have a new construction home. Recently finished up in October. I seeded 3 bags of TTTF (titan rx) back in October. I have quite a few bare spots now that are spotty. I didn't do a nitrogen blitz back in the fall so I'm wondering if it's beneficial to do now?

I've applied a prem back in February which was tupersan so I seeded a couple weeks ago as well and have noticed some germination. Looking back on things I think I should have put some KBG down to help with the lateral spread. Is there anything else you would recommend doing? Just followed you on Instagram! I'm new to the whole lawn care game


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## Harts (May 14, 2018)

@Copat Thanks for the follow and congrats on the new place. Looks like a beautiful neighbourhood.

I'll send you a PM shortly so as not to hijack this thread.


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## Copat (Mar 20, 2021)

@Harts you're the man! Thank you, sir!


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## AndyS (Jun 13, 2020)

Copat said:


> @jha4aamu is there any detailed info on how to properly dissolve urea with water for spraying? Definitely interested in trying that out vs spreading.


Warm water, a good shake, and 10 mins does the trick. Last fall I mixed it in a $5 empty 1 gal paint container that you can buy in Menards. I then poured the solution into the half-filled sprayer and topped it up. Worked every time.


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## ABC123 (Jul 14, 2017)

Just make sure those bare spots dont have algae growing in them and you can spray urea a .2lb per K weekly. Wash off the leaf before the next sunrise. you should notice quite a difference 7+ weeks later. Just dont expect immediate results as things take time and consistency matters. Think of it as eating daily and working out to gain muscle. Its a long haul to see results.


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## Ewc88 (Apr 3, 2019)

Let me ask, I put my pre-emergent down and the next day it rained pretty good. Is there a chance of wash out and I should add more?


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