# Soil test results help



## Gorgonzola17 (Feb 28, 2018)

So this is my first year I did a soil test on my lawn. I have tall fescue turf and live in the transition zone. I am just starting to learn how to take care of the lawn properly. Looking at this soil test I know I need potassium, some nitrogen, micro nutrients (iron was very low) and need to raise my ph (probably throw some lime down). Would love to hear some opinions on the best course of action to raise some of these levels. Thanks in advance.


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## Colonel K0rn (Jul 4, 2017)

Looks like you're in pretty good shape! I wish I had that soil profile starting out. I wouldn't worry too much about raising the iron level immediately, because it's a micronutrient. Think about micros like vitamins; you only need a small percentage of those nutrients for your body to operate to it's optimal capacity, but just because the Soil Savvy test says that you're low doesn't necessarily mean that it's not available for your turf. It can be present, but not plant available, because it might be tied up with other nutrients.

Milorganite has iron in it, so if you do your feeding with that product, you'll be supplementing your iron as well. The drawback with milo is that it's expensive, but for your size yard, you'd be fine with 1 bag per feeding. Look into dolomitic lime, which has Calcium Carbonate and Magnesium to raise the pH, but keep in mind with dolomitic lime, it takes a long time for the pH to go up, compared to calcitic lime. Costs are pretty inexpensive for either product.

As a caveat, Soil Savvy does state that their pH results can be skewed by 0.5 points, so take it for what it's worth. It might be good to get another test done by Waypoint, which will give us some better, and more trusted, results. Worth looking into to get a better picture, rather than guessing at what products you'll need to buy and suggestions.


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

The pH looks fine if you consider they report .5 difference (see footnote). So you need some 0-0-50 and a source of nitrogen. I like milorganite but any slow release N would be good.


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## Gorgonzola17 (Feb 28, 2018)

GrassDaddy said:


> The pH looks fine if you consider they report .5 difference (see footnote). So you need some 0-0-50 and a source of nitrogen. I like milorganite but any slow release N would be good.


Thanks for the recommendation. When would you apply the 0-0-50 and at what rate?? I already did an app of Milorganite. Was planning on doing an application per your video recommendation (mem. Day, 4th of July, labor day, thanksgiving), but was concerned after reading some articles stating not to fertilize after march 15th in NC. It looks like I have plenty of phosphorus in my soil. Would the Milorganite hurt my lawn or the extra phosphorous wouldn't be a problem?


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

2 lbs/k every 30 days, about 5 apps. That would get you to the 10lbs/k recommendation.

Milorganite you don't have to worry about in the summer it's the urea based fertilizers. The organic is slow release.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Milo will not burn/kill your grass. But I don't think it is wise to apply any nitrogen when the grass is under stress. A transition lawn in the summer is under a lot of more stress than a Milwaukee lawn. The Milo recommended application date around holidays is not the best. I will follow the NC recommendations that are based on your local weather.


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## Gorgonzola17 (Feb 28, 2018)

GrassDaddy said:


> 2 lbs/k every 30 days, about 5 apps. That would get you to the 10lbs/k recommendation.
> 
> Milorganite you don't have to worry about in the summer it's the urea based fertilizers. The organic is slow release.


Thanks grass daddy. Looking for a good option for a 50 lb bag of sulfate of potash, but not sure where to get it local. Some of the local fertilizer places are only open during the week, so will have to go during lunch one day. Just so I understand, if my sq. Footage is approximately 3500-3800 would it take approximately 7 - 7.5 lbs per application at 2 lbs per k??

Also, are you saying Milorganite is fine?? I just shouldn't use fertilizers with urea after march 15th.


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## Gorgonzola17 (Feb 28, 2018)

g-man said:


> Milo will not burn/kill your grass. But I don't think it is wise to apply any nitrogen when the grass is under stress. A transition lawn in the summer is under a lot of more stress than a Milwaukee lawn. The Milo recommended application date around holidays is not the best. I will follow the NC recommendations that are based on your local weather.


@g-man last year was my first year taking care of a lawn down here. The beginning of the summer was rough because I didn't have irrigation yet. Now that I have irrigation for a full season, I can water at the correct time of day and make sure the lawn is getting enough water (especially during the heat and humidity of summer). Also, since doing alot more research recently I believe my lawn had fungal issues last year as well. Will be doing fungicide treatments this season to help alleviate those issues. Will probably do one more Milorganite treatment on memorial day, but skip 4th of July and then see how the lawn is looking and how warm it is around labor day. The last thing I want to do is stress the lawn more than it already is. Some days I just want to give up and reno to Bermuda but there is nothing like the fresh cut smell of fescue  ... Thanks again for all your helpful suggestions.


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

Yup that's all correct. Just look at what the prill size is. I bought it locally and it was powder not granules so I have to mix it with milorganite before applying lol


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## Gorgonzola17 (Feb 28, 2018)

GrassDaddy said:


> Yup that's all correct. Just look at what the prill size is. I bought it locally and it was powder not granules so I have to mix it with milorganite before applying lol


Found the 50 lb bag today at my local Howard's Fertilizer. Was $31.00 and it is granular. I am going to put my first application down today if possible. Thanks again for the recommendations.


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## MikeD (Aug 17, 2017)

I had around the same pH as you with a soil Savvy test. I was very confused about the .5 difference then other test.. so I called them to find out do I need to add .5 to the results ? They said no they've already done that for you. They just pointed out that the capsule leaks and causes the results to test .5 lower. ( I don't understand why they keep that in there footnotes to stop confusion they should remove it ) so I added calcitic lime follow the directions perfectly .. Did another test about 6 weeks later and I was at 6.3 ph. Going to be added Dometic lime for the long-term pH buffer. It's my understanding calcitic lime is only good for about 3 months. My Lawns looking better now than ever.


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