# NJ Mid-Summer Re-Seed



## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

I posted last week about installing sod in my backyard this summer. Due to budget constraints, I am thinking I am going to try to seed instead.

My contractor smoothed everything out yesterday with the bobcat. The soil is fairly compact in most areas so I am going to try to moisten it and break it up with either a hand thatching rake or a power rake. I have the ability to rent a rear-tine tiller, but I have heard this may cause more harm than good.

I am installing new sprinkler heads this week so I'll have irrigation in place.

My plan is to rake out any remaining debris
Loosen compacted areas with thatch rake. (posisbly rent a dethatcher to break up surface)
Seed with spreader
Starter fert
Spread 1/4" of peat moss
Roll with lawn roller
Irrigate and pray for good weather.

I am looking for some recommendations on seed mix for this project. I am looking for something that will establish quickly and will tolerate a mix of sun and partial shade. This is my backyard so it's going to have a decent amount of traffic once it is established. I have local access to LESCO seed mixes, lebanon mixes (winning colors, university select), and jonathan green.


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## Alex1389 (May 23, 2018)

Oh man that looks like a perfect seed bed for some elite KBG... but with an August seeding window.

Do you think that you could wait another month before dropping seed, or do you absolutely need the yard back up and running right away?

Seeding in this heat is going to be incredibly difficult.


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## cousineau18 (May 28, 2019)

blazin said:


> I posted last week about installing sod in my backyard this summer. Due to budget constraints, I am thinking I am going to try to seed instead.
> 
> My contractor smoothed everything out yesterday with the bobcat. The soil is fairly compact in most areas so I am going to try to moisten it and break it up with either a hand thatching rake or a power rake. I have the ability to rent a rear-tine tiller, but I have heard this may cause more harm than good.
> 
> ...


Just being honest, if you want to waste your money on seed....then go right ahead but I would wait until the end of Sep approx. to seed as your seed will NOT be able to survive the hot heat with no roots.


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

cousineau18 said:


> Just being honest, if you want to waste your money on seed....then go right ahead but I would wait until the end of Sep approx. to seed as your seed will NOT be able to survive the hot heat with no roots.


I was afraid I would here this...

My original plan was sod but I am worried about spending $1,500 on sod and having it not take because of the weather. Would sod have a much higher chance of success?

My wife is gonna kill me if I tell her I can't seed for another month....

Regardless of timing, what are some grass mixes that are recommended for my area?


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Sod has a much higher chance of success if you get the irrigation worked out. What are your plans for the yard? The cool season guide is a good place to start to get an idea of your expectations. An idea of tier 1 2 or 3 will help seed recommendations.

Keep in mind even if you seed now you won't be able to use the lawn for over a month, longer if you do KBG.


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## Jconnelly6b (Mar 4, 2018)

@@Alex1389 you think elite KBG would be okay with all that shade?

@blazin I would recommend Hogans TTTF blend + 10% KBG for that area. Will germinate much quicker than 100% KBG but give you some fill in after time.


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## cousineau18 (May 28, 2019)

blazin said:


> cousineau18 said:
> 
> 
> > Just being honest, if you want to waste your money on seed....then go right ahead but I would wait until the end of Sep approx. to seed as your seed will NOT be able to survive the hot heat with no roots.
> ...


Sod would have a higher chance of surviving.....however its hard to recommend something when you can just wait one more moth and have great results. I lived with a crappy yard for 5 months when I purchased my home because of planting Bermuda seed in the spring and purchasing in the winter here in Richmond VA.

As far as the type of grass, most likely for your area you are going to want to do Turf Type Tall Fescue, with a small blend of Kentucky Blue Grass.


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

Thanks for the replies everyone.

I am definitely in the tier 2 camp as far as expectations.

I am leaning towards just going for the seed. I can get the hogan mix + bluegrass for $190 delivered or pick up a bag of Lebanon Winning Colors TTTF for $120 for a 50 lb bag. Is the hogan worth the extra $70?

I have about 3,000 sq ft so I will be able to get 2 full applications out of a 50 lb bag.

I figure I'll seed early next week, pray for reasonable temps and keep in moist. This will get me some establishment, help stabilize the soil and get some green in the yard. In mid september I can seed again to help fill things in.

So recognizing that this is not the best time to seed, would would be some steps I could take to help improve my chances of success?

Root Hume?
Hydretain?
Fungicide to avoid issues with heavy watering?


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

blazin said:


> I am leaning towards just going for the seed. I can get the hogan mix + bluegrass for $190 delivered or pick up a bag of Lebanon Winning Colors TTTF for $120 for a 50 lb bag. Is the hogan worth the extra $70?


Yes, I would pay the extra $70 to get the Hogan. Hogan uses the top performing cultivars he can get and the blend is a nice mix.

I used the Hogan Blend on my backyard and it is fantastic. :thumbup: You can check out my journal for some pictures. LMk if you have any other questions that I might be able to help with.

Here are some others that might have used it - https://thelawnforum.com/search.php?keywords=hogan&fid%5B0%5D=27


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

Mid July in Northern NJ is too early. And late Sept. is too late.

Good news is, if you have shade, you can get away with the first week in August. Irrigation needs to on point. Just delay for two weeks, and work on your plan in the meantime.


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## Tsmith (Aug 11, 2017)

ericgautier said:


> blazin said:
> 
> 
> > I am leaning towards just going for the seed. I can get the hogan mix + bluegrass for $190 delivered or pick up a bag of Lebanon Winning Colors TTTF for $120 for a 50 lb bag. Is the hogan worth the extra $70?
> ...


I agree, Hogan seed is well worth the extra money which you won't regret spending

As long as you seed at the right time and not in the middle of the summer


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## seiyafan (Apr 3, 2019)

Do it around labor day.


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## Jconnelly6b (Mar 4, 2018)

If you do it right (you'll get minimum 3 chances with 50 lbs of seed on your lot) you only buy seed once. Hogan's is a perfect blend of top performing cultivars without spend double for the seedsuperstore best of the best blends


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

If you can keep it moist, throw seed now and throw some more mid August if needed. Yes it is not the ideal time, but your soil is prep and ready to go. Use tenacity or Scott starter with weed control. Do pay extra for good seeds, it is worth it.


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## Sfurunner13 (Feb 26, 2019)

I agree. I used hogan TTTF blend and I love it. I also added KBG to the mix and would not do it any other way. It provides repairability and all the benefits of KBG but you don't notice the pout stage as much because the TTTF is rapidly growing. I did my Reno mid September last year and was worried it would not make it through winter. Mid August to first week September is ideal but with water and a close eye I'm sure you could get it to work now.


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

Sounds good, I'm going to order the Hogan TTTF + bluegrass tomorrow morning. What % of bluegrass should I go with?


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

blazin said:


> Sounds good, I'm going to order the Hogan TTTF + bluegrass tomorrow morning. What % of bluegrass should I go with?


Definitely somewhere between 5% and 30% KBG seed by weight. But the 10% to 25% range is the typical. You cannot go wrong with the middle of that range...around 15%. If you have more shade, go a bit less, like 10%. Moderate shade, 5%. Heavy shade, and the mix probably won't work too well.

Or order the seed in separate bags and mix your own.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

A 90:10 ratio of TTTF:KBG by weight gives you a 50-50 blend because the KBG seed is so much smaller than TTTF. If you're ordering from Hogan, they can give you recommendations. You also have to choose which cultivar(s) to use. They can make recommendations there too.

Seed Moist is a product that coats the seed and helps to retain moisture. It would be helpful to get some and mix it with the seed when planting. When you seed, the ground should be somewhat soft so you may need to water some ahead of time. It's important to press the seed into the soil. A lawn roller can be used to get it pressed in. A light covering of peat moss will help retain moisture too. Use the correct amount of seed as instructed. Weigh it out and distribute it thinly in several passes. More is not better. Overcrowding can doom a seeding.


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

I spoke with Hogan this morning and they recommended the 80/20 Hogan Blend + Bluegrass. I ordered 50 lbs which should give me plenty for 2 rounds of seeding + overseeding my 2,600 sq ft front yard this fall.

He also recommended using a fungicide when I put the seed down to combat against fungus issues with all the moisture and heat for a mid-summer seeding.

Here's my plan:
Finish installing irrigation, and water seed bed over next few days to help soften seedbed. 
Finish grading, break up hard areas with thatch rake
Mix seed with soil moist seed coat
Spread Scotts starter fertilizer + weed control
Spread Seed 
Spread peat moss (by hand as I cannot find anyone that rents one in north jersey)
Spread Scotts DiseaseEx
Roll lawn
Water 4 x per day for 5-7 minutes

Should I be adding some slow release organic fertilizer to this? I see a lot of people applying Milo during seeding, but it's completely unavailable around me right now. I can get Ringer Lawn Restore (9-0-2) on amazon for a reasonable price though.

One concern I have is that my contractor just regraded everything and probably exposed new weed seeds. I am worried about weeds coming up over the next week before I seed. Can I spot spray roundup a few days before seeding or do I have to wait a week or two?


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## Auger12 (Jul 17, 2019)

good afternoon i'm also a south jerseyan the most important question is 4 inches below your grade what type of soil do you have mine goes straight to marl clay for at least 5 ft ( dug down hoping to find the sandy loam )
if you do have clay KBG is a waste of money it will die out in 2 seasons. I use to use winning colors a good TTTF but now i use Jonathan Green Black Beauty Original the blades are much wider but i haven't see a darker green grass seed!
so in your second application drop JG Black Beauty with the seed you bought.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Read the directions on your Roundup to see what it says about planting after using it. Likely says a day or so. There are different Roundup products; be sure not to get anything with extended control. It will take some time for the weeds to die after spraying but they will die and they shouldn't interfere with your planting. You should start watering lightly every day now to encourage weed seeds to sprout so you can zap them.

The seed doesn't need any fertilizer right at first, as it has its energy right inside the seed. Starter fertilizer is fine, especially if you need phosphorus, as it puts phosphorus close to the new roots. The starter fertilizer with Tenacity is very helpful to prevent weeds for the first weeks after planting.

Your watering may need to be adjusted to fit the conditions. You want to keep the seed moist but don't want runoff or puddling. The peat moss will change color as it dries and that can be a sign to water again. It may take more frequent watering and less time than 5-7 minutes for each watering.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

I would suggest putting some stepping stones to get to the pool, even if you don't want them permanently. You will be reseeding this fall (G-man suggested mid August, which is a good time for your area, and if that too fails, you could try again) so later on you can plant where the stones are. The seed you're getting is predominantly KBG and KBG takes a long time to germinate. Everyone needs to stay off the lawn as much as possible. July is one if the worst times of year to seed but maybe you'll get enough germination to stabilize the soil. Thunderstorms can be a problem with washouts. What seeding rate is Hogan recommending?


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Just occurred to me that the peat moss might interfere with seed/soil contact when you reseed in mid to late August. Maybe it would be better to use compost or just dirt for a light covering when you plant now. Maybe someone else will chime in.


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

Virginiagal said:


> I would suggest putting some stepping stones to get to the pool, even if you don't want them permanently. You will be reseeding this fall (G-man suggested mid August, which is a good time for your area, and if that too fails, you could try again) so later on you can plant where the stones are. The seed you're getting is predominantly KBG and KBG takes a long time to germinate. Everyone needs to stay off the lawn as much as possible. July is one if the worst times of year to seed but maybe you'll get enough germination to stabilize the soil. Thunderstorms can be a problem with washouts. What seeding rate is Hogan recommending?


I was thinking the same thing regarding the stepping stones. I am having 2x2 bluestone stepping stones delivered on tuesday so I can get them in before seeding.

Got my seed from Hogan today. I don't know much about the different cultivars but there are certainly a lot of them!



I ended up picking up some Tenacity at the landscape supply near my work, so I'm going to be spraying that instead of using the scotts starter + weed control before seeding. I was planning to seed next week after this heat wave but it's going to get pushed back a week because my irrigation isn't in and I would rather be sitting in the pool than running irrigation lines in 102 degree heat this weekend.... I also need to have my contractor install the stepping stones before i do the seeding.


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## SoilSecrets (Apr 12, 2019)

I brought JG Black Beauty Ultra and did not use it because I learned later that the bag of seed should state in percentage how much 'other crop' is in the bag. Any potential other crop could be some sort of weed. I ended up going with a certified blend with 0% other crop like golf courses use. Go to Superseedstore.com. It's pricey but worth it for 0% other crop....and peace of mind. Check out Ryan Knorr newest video on YouTube. He is going to test 3 varieties of KBG.


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## Sfurunner13 (Feb 26, 2019)

Great mix! I think you'll be very happy with it!


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

Last weekend I got everything prepped and put the seed down and top dressed with peat moss.

Steps taken were:
Remove rocks/debris
Multiple passes with power rake/split seeder
Spray with simple lawn solutions liquid aerate (still having drainage issues)
Lawn rake for final grade
Spray tenacity
Spread seed ~18 lbs for 3,000 sq ft
spread peat moss

Everything was looking good except for 2 areas where pool drainage causes flooding whenever sprinkers come on. As of yesterday I had pretty good germination in most areas, with other areas looking like they were about to pop.

As luck would have it, we got a huge thunderstorm last night which washed almost all of the peat moss and most of the ungerminated seed off the lawn, over my retaining wall and onto my pool deck/surrounding landscaping.











Now i'm trying to decide what to do next. I am concerned that if I try to re-seed it now I will damage the grass that did germinate and I could have the same thing happen all over again.

I am thinking I should wait a few weeks for the grass thats there to develop to help stabilize the soil to prevent the crazy sheet-slow I had last night and then overseed again and maybe topdress with something that wont get washed away quite so easily.

All suggestions welcomed!


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## Babaganoosh (Apr 21, 2019)

Same thing happened to me last year. It happened the very next day after seeding. You will probably be surprised how much stayed in place. I got bad germination in the highest areas and got a crazy thick turf area where it washed too but overall it came in pretty good. I was actually shocked.

From experience I say to treat it like you would have and keep at the watering schedule. In a few weeks I'd seed the areas that came in poorly. I'm in NJ too and we still have lots of time left to seed.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I see a lot of germinated grass. Those will be fine. Give it a few days to see if any new grass shows up in the other areas. Add more seed and keep watering. Downpour storms are the worst.


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

Babaganoosh said:


> Same thing happened to me last year. It happened the very next day after seeding. You will probably be surprised how much stayed in place. I got bad germination in the highest areas and got a crazy thick turf area where it washed too but overall it came in pretty good. I was actually shocked.
> 
> From experience I say to treat it like you would have and keep at the watering schedule. In a few weeks I'd seed the areas that came in poorly. I'm in NJ too and we still have lots of time left to seed.





g-man said:


> I see a lot of germinated grass. Those will be fine. Give it a few days to see if any new grass shows up in the other areas. Add more seed and keep watering. Downpour storms are the worst.


Thanks for the reassurance. Downpours really are the worst... I'll keep you posted


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## Babaganoosh (Apr 21, 2019)

Matter of fact there was an area that you can tell got slit seeded because there was a straight line of germinated grass similar to a corn row. That's how I know that a slit seeder actually works. Everything else washed off the area but some seed that made it into that groove made it and came to life. I had a pic at one point but I can tell remember if I still have it.. I'll look and post it if I find it.


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## Sfurunner13 (Feb 26, 2019)

If it makes you feel better I did a TTTF/KBG reno last year and didn't lay my seed until around September 12. I was super late and it did fine over the winter ( I also had washouts and planted some spots a week or two later as well). You have plenty of time to plant more seed if you need to,


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

Here are some current photos of the lawn. Only a couple areas took well, some are partially filled in and others are totally bare. I gave the lawn .25lb/1000 of nitrogen on Saturday and am planning to seed again this weekend.

The areas that show no seed I am having drainage issues with. I run the sprinklers for 3 minutes and I have puddles so it just floods out the seed. Also the soil has hardened up a lot with a lot of sand brought to the surface from all the rain. How can I prepare the lawn for over seeding without destroying the existing grass too much?

This is so frustrating... I spent 2 days preparing the seed bed and it looked amazing, 1 big rainstorm and it all went to sh***t.....


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## Khy (Jul 27, 2018)

@blazin Honestly, it doesn't look that bad to me... some of the really bare spots it seems pretty clear that there's little shoots of green showing up, it may not be as full as the really thick areas but that's fine, it's mostly KBG. That bag was 20% bluegrass which is basically 50/50 TTTF and KBG seeds.

I'll go out on a limb here and say you'll be fine. You can definitely throw down some seed in those large bare areas, I'd just throw it out by hand though. But there's something that you need to keep in mind, you seeded what... like 15 days ago or so now? There's still going to be a lot of KBG that is just now starting to come up and on top of that KBG has what's known as the "sprout and pout" phase. Where it will come up and just kind of linger at 1/2" or 1" for like a week before it suddenly starts popping.

But I see enough green, regardless of how thin it looks, in those large thin patches to say you'll be surprised in a month or so by how much that fills in, especially if you throw some seed out in those areas again. As an example...

Here is my KBG/TTTF mix in areas I reno'd last year (they were mostly KY31 and Fine Fescue and I just wanted to give rid of the entire area) this photo was taken about 2 weeks after seed down, I also had a big storm come through shortly after my seed went down, but this photo was right around where you're at right now, this photo was on September 1st last year.



http://imgur.com/nvwgDcO


I didn't put any other seed down as I miscalculated how much seed I needed and didn't have any extra so I just had to hope...

Here is that exact same area on September 26th



http://imgur.com/LxUMC0x


If you've never grown grass from seed before it can be scary but it's amazing how over the span of a couple weeks it goes from looking like "OH NO ALL MY SEED GOT WASHED OUT AND MY RENO IS RUINED" to "Holy crap, this filled in like crazy".


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## Babaganoosh (Apr 21, 2019)

Get a slit seeder in there and hit those areas. Slit seeding helps the seed stay put in the event of a downpour.


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

How many days is the photo after seed down?

This is my Day 14 for comparison..










Start feeding it weekly.

This is Day 42 after weekly fertilizer apps.


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## Jconnelly6b (Mar 4, 2018)

I agree with all above. I would focus on your new grass now, ensuring it has what it needs and then right after Labor Day any bare spots that remain, re-seed those. It will be a lot easier to manage just a few spots than trying to re-seed all, when in fact your germination looks quite good. It is always surprising how you think germination is so poor, and then a few weeks later you'll look back at a picture and completely have forgotten how much it has filled in.

I would also suggest if you have water pooling in areas after a few minutes of watering, then you are watering too much. I doubt it's the soil is compacted, I would lean more towards there is more moisture staying in the soil in those locations than you may think.


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

Khy said:


> I'll go out on a limb here and say you'll be fine. You can definitely throw down some seed in those large bare areas, I'd just throw it out by hand though. But there's something that you need to keep in mind, you seeded what... like 15 days ago or so now? There's still going to be a lot of KBG that is just now starting to come up and on top of that KBG has what's known as the "sprout and pout" phase. Where it will come up and just kind of linger at 1/2" or 1" for like a week before it suddenly starts popping.


Thats a good point, I when you look closely at the grass, you can definitely see some smaller seedlings which I assumed is the KBG popping up.



ericgautier said:


> How many days is the photo after seed down?


Those photos were about 3 weeks after seed down, 2 weeks, after germination.

The lawn is starting to fill in more. I backed off on the watering and hit it with another .25/lb N/1000 sq ft on saturday. At this point I don't think the whole lawn needs another round of seeding, just the bare spots and a few thin areas. I'm going to keep up with the weekly fertilizer at .25lb/1000 to keep things growing well. I got a free bottle of the simple lawn solutions root hume that I'm going to apply as well.

We had a big rainstorm yesterday afternoon and I realized that most of the water coming off of my 700 sq ft patio is flowing off of a 2' wide section directly onto the lawn which causes a small river to flow over the lawn in one area, washing out the soil into my pool stairs and pool deck. This is going to be an ongoing issue so I think my best bet is to install a short linear drain where the water flows and run a pipe down to the bottom of the property. I'll have to dig a trench through the yard to get the pipe in but that area is mostly washed out, so I'm better off doing it now and then reseeding the trench line.

You can see the washout in this photo.


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## NJ-lawn (Jun 25, 2018)

ericgautier said:


> How many days is the photo after seed down?
> 
> This is my Day 14 for comparison..
> 
> ...


At what point did you do weekly apps? I'm thinking about using urea at .25/1M sqft since my P and K look good after my soil test in April.

What do you think?


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

NJ-lawn said:


> At what point did you do weekly apps? I'm thinking about using urea at .25/1M sqft since my P and K look good after my soil test in April.
> 
> What do you think?


I started at Day 7 after germination. I also used Urea. :thumbup:


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## NJ-lawn (Jun 25, 2018)

Great thanks! Lawn is crispy and getting my ducks in a row


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

Got the trench dug and am going to backfill and reseed the trench area and any bare spots tonight. I am thinking I should hit the trench area with Tenacity before seeding since I probably brought a bunch of weed seeds up to the surface when I dug the trench.

I also got my soil test results back from Waypoint. Looks like my PH is high and I am low in Potassium and slightly low in Manganese. Anything else I should be addressing?

The samples were taken before I started my weekly fertilizer treatments of 10-6-4. At a rate of 2.5 lb/1000. I have done two applications so I have added .2lb/1000 of K over the past 2 weeks.


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## Khy (Jul 27, 2018)

The soil test is pretty solid looking all in all, your pH is a touch high but it's fine. The absolute worst case scenario for you at a 7.8 pH would be possible iron chlorosis, even with your high Iron content it's simply not plant available up in the high 7's. You should be able to fix this if you see it occurring with some liquid iron though, as that would be taken in foliarly and be instantly available to the plant. So just keep an eye on any kind of yellowing to the turf and keep some liquid iron on hand. You may even want to micro dose liquid iron as the year moves along just to ensure it doesn't happen.

You can slowly lower that pH over time by adding a lot of organic material and using Ammoniacal based Nitrogen sources for your fertilization. It'll take awhile but the number will slowly come down.

As for the potassium, you're not super low, but you'd probably do good with putting out some K if you can find it. The 0.20LB/1000 of K is basically nothing though, Potassium takes a lot to actually raise the level. Really, you probably want 3-4 LBs/1000 of K and that would bring you right into that middle ground of the optimal range and then you could test again in the spring and adjust as needed. It should only take like 1LB of K a year or so to keep it optimal once you get it balanced. I honestly wouldn't bother with the 10-6-4 anymore. You don't need P, the amount of K in it isn't high enough to be relevant and the amount of Nitrogen in it isn't particularly great either.

You're in NJ, not sure how far you are from Reed and Perrine (Manalapan) or a local SiteOne. Ideally you'd go with the 0-0-50 (Sulface of Potash or SOP) that said, your salt content doesn't seem high so you can probably get away with 0-0-60 as well (Muriate of Potash MOP). If you're going to also be throwing down Nitrogen I know SiteOne carries a I think it's a 5-0-20? I'm sure Reed and Perrine carry other options like that as well.

SOP is usually preferred as it's salt index is lower and as such you can put more out without risking burning the lawn. I'd do it in waves though either way, don't throw it all out at once. Especially if you go the MOP route. So do 2-3 doses of like 1LB per application. So if you manage to get some 0-0-50, basically you're applying just 2LB of product over 1000 sqft, twice. If you went with the 10-0-20 option you'd be doing more like 5LB/1000 and that you could just throw out every week for about a month. That would give you 0.25LB/N and 1LB/K per 1000 and be a nice nitrogen spoon feeding while also pulling that Potassium up some. Just try to make sure your applications are done before mid-October or so. Most recent studies show that late K applications lead to an increase in snow mold.


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

@Khy Thanks for the info

I have a site one close to my office.

I just checked their website and the closest thing that they have in stock locally is 19-0-19. About half of the nitrogen is slow release, so I was thinking I could do .5 lb/N and K every other week. If I did this for the next 2 months I would get 2 lbs of K down in the fall and be done by mid-october as you recommend. The waypoint report recommended 4lbs K per year split between spring and fall, so this should line up well.

The 19-0-19 also has 6.84% sulfur in it so it should help a bit with the PH.

Here is the label. Any reason I shouldn't go this route?


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## Khy (Jul 27, 2018)

blazin said:


> @Khy Thanks for the info
> 
> I have a site one close to my office.
> 
> ...


If it's the best thing you can find, it's probably better than anything you can find in a big box. Typically you'd want fast release N during this time of year. But you're basically just looking for the highest K/N ratio you can get in a bag really. With obviously a 0-0-X being best as that's a 100% K. This is 50/50 which isn't great but it's fine. When you show up you can always ask the guys too, tell them what you're looking for, not sure how accurate their online stock is vs the actually warehouse.


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

@Khy

Just swung by site one. They didn't have anything close, not even the 19-0-19.

I can get Jonathan Green winter survival locally which is 10-0-20. The nitrogen source is 7.5% fast release urea and 2.5% coated urea. Not ideal with the slow release but with weekly feedings of .25lb/1000 N I would still be getting .75lb/1000 of fast release per month + the slow release.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

@blazin, I know your K is low right now and you want to do something about it, but I would focus mostly on Nitrogen this Summer/Fall, and then Potassium and Nitrogen in the Spring. The K is probably the least important concern at the moment, and loading up too much before Winter might make any snow mold worse next Feb./March. Just pick a fertilizer for this Fall that has modest amounts of K (like 5% or something), so you get at least some down, and that'll cover you until Spring.

Also, slow release N is absolutely fine through September (and actually recommended by some professors). October may be a different story.


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

We had a big rainstorm yesterday afternoon followed by a VERY humid night and I woke up this morning to find patches of what looks like Pythium Blight.

I want to get something down quick on this, would Scott's diseasex at the curative rate take care of this?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Yes, azoxy is good on PB. Check the fungicide guide for more options.


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

g-man said:


> Yes, azoxy is good on PB. Check the fungicide guide for more options.


It looks like the only other option for Pythium is Mefenoxam which is very expensive. Does it warrant the extra expense?

I put down azoxy at the preventative rate at seeding time about a month ago.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Use azoxy curative should work. If it continues, you should switch to another fungicide.


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

The lawn established very well this fall and I put my first dose of prodiamine as well as .75lb/1000 of milorganite last week. I was out there today looking things over and I noticed a lot of the blades have brown tips. Is this just winter damage or do I have some fungus I need to deal with?


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## JERSEY (Sep 9, 2018)

blazin said:


> The lawn established very well this fall and I put my first dose of prodiamine as well as .75lb/1000 of milorganite last week. I was out there today looking things over and I noticed a lot of the blades have brown tips. Is this just winter damage or do I have some fungus I need to deal with?


my opinion? its hungry
drop some NITRO


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## blazin (Jul 8, 2019)

I put down .75 lb/1000 of N with the milorganite 2 weeks ago.


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## JERSEY (Sep 9, 2018)

too early for milo

that nitro should hit soon


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