# Zoysia owners



## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

For the Zoysia owners out there who actually have experience with it how often do you get a fungus or some other type of issue that takes a long time to repair or fix itself because of the slow growth / recovery.

Are we talking a possible fungus every year....or is this something that potentially happens due to the nature of the grass?


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

@ENC_Lawn I only ever have to deal with large patch issues, but it's an every year occurrence, so preventative apps at the right time are very important. I was just a few days late this Spring, and my front yard is still recovering.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

@Spammage Thanks for the reply.

I am only familiar with Bermuda recovery for the most part.

How long does it take to recover typically speaking if you get this every year?


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

ENC_Lawn said:


> @Spammage Thanks for the reply.
> 
> I am only familiar with Bermuda recovery for the most part.
> 
> How long does it take to recover typically speaking if you get this every year?


Maybe I wasn't clear, but it's an every year concern if you don't get the preventative apps right. I first noticed damage this year in late April, and it should be gone before the end of June. Most non-lawn people would not even notice it now, but I can still see the effects.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

Spammage said:


> ENC_Lawn said:
> 
> 
> > @Spammage Thanks for the reply.
> ...


@Spammage Gotcha...thanks for the info.

In your experience in a typical growing season any idea how much Zoysia could spread?


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## Ortho-Doc (Feb 3, 2019)

My palisades zoysia is very susceptible to large patch and even with the recommended fall and spring fungicide apps I still get it almost every year due to the poor drainage in certain parts of the yard. It usually takes about of month of hot temps for it to grow out of the fungus. If you have good drainage I would think the preventative apps should prevent most of the large patch.



Spammage said:


> @ENC_Lawn I only ever have to deal with large patch issues, but it's an every year occurrence, so preventative apps at the right time are very important. I was just a few days late this Spring, and my front yard is still recovering.


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

@ENC_Lawn that is VERY cultivar specific actually. I can't get the link, but search "Establishment rate of 43 zoysiagrass cultivars" for a pdf that shows results from a Purdue study.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

@Spammage got it.

Thanks


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## lambert (Sep 12, 2018)

Zoysia is not a slow grower. If it gets nitrogen, water, and hot temps, it will put on top growth like crazy. It is very slow to spread laterally.


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## Saint Louisan (Jul 31, 2019)

I grew up in a home that was surrounded by zoysia (meyer I think) that we burned off every 2yrs or so. I don't remember it ever being struck with fungus. It might've, it just doesn't stick out in my mind.

5 years ago I moved into a home that has zoysia and have been working to get it in proper shape. Only once have I had fungus, that was 2yrs ago during an unseasonably warm and wet spring.

That time I'd just applied milorginite heavily days before and frankly a couple weeks early. I sprayed that area with eagle20 which seemed to halt the damage and the lawn showed no ill effects into june/july.

I love the heck out of our zoysia! I mulch with a rotary mower at 2" and it's nice and thick, like walking on super thick carpet/pad. It's nearly wear proof as well and only needs water once a week...if I feel like it, plenty don't and the lawns just go a bit dormant until it rains again and they take on their emerald color again. It gets my nod for best lawn grass ever.

Plugging speeds the spread if you ever have a need, it's a handy tool to have those few times a year you need it

I read lots of post on here about the trouble some have and I'm thankful I've only had minor issues. Perhaps the zoysia cultivar I have is very well suited to this region..?


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

lambert said:


> Zoysia is not a slow grower. If it gets nitrogen, water, and hot temps, it will put on top growth like crazy. It is very slow to spread laterally.


@lambert Thanks for mentioning that....that's what I meant to say...from what I understand the lateral growth is very slow to heal or recover from any damage.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

Saint Louisan said:


> I grew up in a home that was surrounded by zoysia (meyer I think) that we burned off every 2yrs or so. I don't remember it ever being struck with fungus. It might've, it just doesn't stick out in my mind.
> 
> 5 years ago I moved into a home that has zoysia and have been working to get it in proper shape. Only once have I had fungus, that was 2yrs ago during an unseasonably warm and wet spring.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the feedback!


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

Ortho-Doc said:


> My palisades zoysia is very susceptible to large patch and even with the recommended fall and spring fungicide apps I still get it almost every year due to the poor drainage in certain parts of the yard. It usually takes about of month of hot temps for it to grow out of the fungus. If you have good drainage I would think the preventative apps should prevent most of the large patch.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


@Ortho-Doc Thanks for the feedback!


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## critterdude311 (Apr 21, 2018)

ENC_Lawn said:


> For the Zoysia owners out there who actually have experience with it how often do you get a fungus or some other type of issue that takes a long time to repair or fix itself because of the slow growth / recovery.
> 
> Are we talking a possible fungus every year....or is this something that potentially happens due to the nature of the grass?


My backyard is primarily Meyer Z-52 at this point. Surrounding neighbors all have Meyer as well. I've lived in this neighborhood for 10 years and have never seen their lawns (or mine as the meyer has encroached) with fungus / disease issues. These people do not apply anything to their lawns, not even fertilizer, the only maintenance they do is mow about once a week during the growing season. Meyer is incredibly hardy in this part of the country. As you venture further south, disease pressures would likely increase.


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

When Zoysia goes straight from frost to ice covered, it is not particularly disease prone. Problems arise if the Zoysia is subjected to rain, humidity and temperatures between 50-75. It does not freeze or snow where I am at, however rain, humidity and temperatures under 75 describe up to 6 months out of the year here.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

@critterdude311 Thanks for the feedback!


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

Greendoc said:


> When Zoysia goes straight from frost to ice covered, it is not particularly disease prone. Problems arise if the Zoysia is subjected to rain, humidity and temperatures between 50-75. It does not freeze or snow where I am at, however rain, humidity and temperatures under 75 describe up to 6 months out of the year here.


Thanks @Greendoc for the feedback...yeah it seems like the higher up into the transition zone you get these lawns don't seem to have the problems us in the Carolina's and below may have.


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## Troyman (Jun 15, 2020)

I live in the northern Atlanta metro and I've had to deal with dollar spot in my zeon zoyzia. I recall it being worse the first couple years after sodding. I had never had this sort of issue with the common bermuda, so I was taken back a bit when my upgraded grass was not doing well. I used Bonide's Infuse fungicide though and it took care of it. This repeated itself a few times. I eventually began applying the fungicide every year as a preventive in late spring when the lawn was greening up. It hasn't been a problem the past several years.

In hindsight, I think the underlying cause of the fungus was that I wasn't applying enough fertilizer. I had read so many warnings about how over-fertilizing would promote thatch build-up in zoyzia that I became overly-conservative when it came to how much nitrogen I was supplying the grass. I think the combination of the preventive application of fungicide along with the extra fertilizer has done the trick for me.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

Troyman said:


> I live in the northern Atlanta metro and I've had to deal with dollar spot in my zeon zoyzia. I recall it being worse the first couple years after sodding. I had never had this sort of issue with the common bermuda, so I was taken back a bit when my upgraded grass was not doing well. I used Bonide's Infuse fungicide though and it took care of it. This repeated itself a few times. I eventually began applying the fungicide every year as a preventive in late spring when the lawn was greening up. It hasn't been a problem the past several years.
> 
> In hindsight, I think the underlying cause of the fungus was that I wasn't applying enough fertilizer. I had read so many warnings about how over-fertilizing would promote thatch build-up in zoyzia that I became overly-conservative when it came to how much nitrogen I was supplying the grass. I think the combination of the preventive application of fungicide along with the extra fertilizer has done the trick for me.


@Troyman Thanks for the real world insight and feedback!


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Troyman said:


> I live in the northern Atlanta metro and I've had to deal with dollar spot in my zeon zoyzia. I recall it being worse the first couple years after sodding. I had never had this sort of issue with the common bermuda, so I was taken back a bit when my upgraded grass was not doing well. I used Bonide's Infuse fungicide though and it took care of it. This repeated itself a few times. I eventually began applying the fungicide every year as a preventive in late spring when the lawn was greening up. It hasn't been a problem the past several years.
> 
> In hindsight, I think the underlying cause of the fungus was that I wasn't applying enough fertilizer. I had read so many warnings about how over-fertilizing would promote thatch build-up in zoyzia that I became overly-conservative when it came to how much nitrogen I was supplying the grass. I think the combination of the preventive application of fungicide along with the extra fertilizer has done the trick for me.


Zeon becomes rather easy to live with on a robust PGR program. That way you can apply enough fertilizer and water it enough to keep it healthy. Alternative to a PGR is the need to mow just about daily.


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## drewwitt (Jun 25, 2018)

I have Zeon. That lines up with my experience.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

@jayhawk Since you have owned Both Bermuda and Zoysia any insight?

If one is starting over from scratch with a brand new lawn surface...just curious which you would pic...having owned both?

Thanks


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## jayhawk (Apr 18, 2017)

Yes it's true. Zoysia matrellas. The curb appeal, short or tall....rotary or reel. Other advantages too

Disease pressure is high, most of my yard isn't full sun. May lack airflow too.

Reel mowed Tifgrand is my fav Bermuda, at the time had no idea how nice it'd be sub .5 ...I see dollar spot occasionally. Maybe others, just not a disease expert.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

jayhawk said:


> Yes it's true. Zoysia matrellas. The curb appeal, short or tall....rotary or reel. Other advantages too
> 
> Disease pressure is high, most of my yard isn't full sun. May lack airflow too.
> 
> Reel mowed Tifgrand is my fav Bermuda, at the time had no idea how nice it'd be sub .5 ...I see dollar spot occasionally. Maybe others, just not a disease expert.


@jayhawk Thanks for feedback! :thumbup:


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## jayhawk (Apr 18, 2017)

Have seen a fine blade in person? @ZeonJNix 
and @reidgarner have both


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## Saints (May 5, 2019)

ENC_Lawn said:


> For the Zoysia owners out there who actually have experience with it how often do you get a fungus or some other type of issue that takes a long time to repair or fix itself because of the slow growth / recovery.
> 
> Are we talking a possible fungus every year....or is this something that potentially happens due to the nature of the grass?


I have Empire that I put down last year and Geo that I put down this year. I haven't experienced a fungus in the Empire yet but, have messed it it up in spots with a bobcat and it is very slow to recover and has pretty poor shade tolerance.

I have had a fungus on the new Geo but, I put down some disease ex and it is recovering super fast. Like Bermuda fast and has excellent shade tolerance.

I have no long term experience with either cultivar so take that for what it is. I will say that I am more than impressed with the Geo and had medium expectations for it as I knew I would be pushing it in some shady areas. I love Bermuda and this grass reminded me of it with a much better shade tolerance.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

@jayhawk The fine blade I have seen in person are Emerald and it looks really nice!


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

@ENC_Lawn the matrellas (and Emerald) will typically look the best, with the japonicas requiring less water. The matrellas are also typically better in shade, but not always. If I were starting over, I would pick Celebration due to its shade, heat and drought tolerance, but that doesn't mean that I think it looks the best. We get droughty conditions here in DFW for 3-4 months per year with expensive water, so that factors into the equation. If you are only concerned with appearance, then Tifgrand or a Matrella would be the ideal choice.


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## lambert (Sep 12, 2018)

Saints said:


> ENC_Lawn said:
> 
> 
> > For the Zoysia owners out there who actually have experience with it how often do you get a fungus or some other type of issue that takes a long time to repair or fix itself because of the slow growth / recovery.
> ...


I have Geo and Empire too. The Empire is in the front with good sunlight and good airflow and the Geo is on the back with shade and a privacy fence. The Geo has been much more disease resistant than the Empire.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

@Spammage Good points...It's great to hear the real world feedback.

I am starting PGR for the first time this month ...and the only drawback I have with Bermuda now that I am going into my second season with it...is the frequency of cut.

I love how fast it grows and spreads laterally for injury recovery etc...but its a catch 22 with the constant mowing with scalping or HOC resets being a must if life gets busy and you miss a cut or two.

The pro's of Zoysia that really appealed to me is you can mow it less often and if you get behind it doesn't seem scalp hardly at all.

However I am trying to find out what appears "lower maitenance with Zoysia due to less mowing" it may make take more maintence in other areas...???

FYI...around here most Zoysia lawns are Rotary cut at 2 inches or more....and look great.

I have some other property that is basically all weeds and I am thinking about trying out some different grass types there.

So sounds like @Spammage having had both would do Bermuda....and @jayhawk would do Zoysia..."if you had to just pick one".

I actually had and area in my backyard before I did my renovation were I had laid a small section of Zenith Zoysia Sod.

One of the piece's of the SOD was laid about 3 inches away from the other piece of SOD creating a gap of about 3 inches.

I on purpose left it that way just to see how long it took to grow together laterally....and after the entire lawn season...I honestly don't think it moved any...and the gap was still there...LOL....so there that concern too. 

Thanks guys for the feedback and keep it coming...It's good to hear from real world experience!


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## lambert (Sep 12, 2018)

Greendoc said:


> Troyman said:
> 
> 
> > I live in the northern Atlanta metro and I've had to deal with dollar spot in my zeon zoyzia. I recall it being worse the first couple years after sodding. I had never had this sort of issue with the common bermuda, so I was taken back a bit when my upgraded grass was not doing well. I used Bonide's Infuse fungicide though and it took care of it. This repeated itself a few times. I eventually began applying the fungicide every year as a preventive in late spring when the lawn was greening up. It hasn't been a problem the past several years.
> ...


With my short time using PGR on zoysia, I think that is going to be the key to nice easy to maintain zoysia.


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

ENC_Lawn said:


> @Spammage Good points...It's great to hear the real world feedback.
> 
> I am starting PGR for the first time this month ...and the only drawback I have with Bermuda now that I am going into my second season with it...is the frequency of cut.
> 
> ...


Rotary mowed Zoysia is easy to look good from afar, but up close, it is far from good. In other words, I could live with that looking at it a block away, but not in my own front lawn.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

Greendoc said:


> ENC_Lawn said:
> 
> 
> > @Spammage Good points...It's great to hear the real world feedback.
> ...


Gotcha. Thanks as always @Greendoc


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

Spammage said:


> @ENC_Lawn that is VERY cultivar specific actually. I can't get the link, but search "Establishment rate of 43 zoysiagrass cultivars" for a pdf that shows results from a Purdue study.


@Spammage read through the paper. But how do you interpret this.

I know Zoysia plugs started off as 3 inch plugs.

El Toro was the fastest spreading plug.

But the table is confusing. Not sure joe read CM2 and convert to inches?

See table in next thread.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

@Spammage table read in CM2 but what does 1,000 2,000 3,000 etc. mean.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

@Spammage El Toro is right at 5,000 CM 2 but I confused on how may inches that translates too?

Thanks!


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

@ENC_Lawn I'm an imperial guy too, but Google tells me that 6.45 cm^2 = 1 inch ^2. Keep in mind that there findings are in bare dirt. I've also found that even Meyer (near the bottom of the list) is not going to be stopped. Think of it like the tortoise and the hare. Slow and steady wins the race.


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## ZachUA (Dec 28, 2018)

Troyman said:


> I live in the northern Atlanta metro and I've had to deal with dollar spot in my zeon zoyzia. I recall it being worse the first couple years after sodding. I had never had this sort of issue with the common bermuda, so I was taken back a bit when my upgraded grass was not doing well. I used Bonide's Infuse fungicide though and it took care of it. This repeated itself a few times. I eventually began applying the fungicide every year as a preventive in late spring when the lawn was greening up. It hasn't been a problem the past several years.
> 
> In hindsight, I think the underlying cause of the fungus was that I wasn't applying enough fertilizer. I had read so many warnings about how over-fertilizing would promote thatch build-up in zoyzia that I became overly-conservative when it came to how much nitrogen I was supplying the grass. I think the combination of the preventive application of fungicide along with the extra fertilizer has done the trick for me.


How much fert are you applying to your zeon? I just laid zeon about 3-4 weeks ago and it seems to be doing well so far. According to the zoysiagrass yearly maintenance article I found on clemson site it says: fertilize with ½ to 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in June or July using a fertilizer that is also high in potassium, such as a 15-0-15. The need for phosphorus is determined by a soil test.

I'm going to send off for a soil test but it may be a week or so between collecting soil, mailing, and hearing back from the soil folks. In meantime I didn't want to miss out on the june/july fert app.


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## Troyman (Jun 15, 2020)

ZachUA said:


> How much fert are you applying to your zeon? I just laid zeon about 3-4 weeks ago and it seems to be doing well so far. According to the zoysiagrass yearly maintenance article I found on clemson site it says: fertilize with ½ to 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in June or July using a fertilizer that is also high in potassium, such as a 15-0-15. The need for phosphorus is determined by a soil test.
> 
> I'm going to send off for a soil test but it may be a week or so between collecting soil, mailing, and hearing back from the soil folks. In meantime I didn't want to miss out on the june/july fert app.


SuperSod recommends 1-3 lbs per year. https://www.supersod.com/diy/zeon-zoysia-lawn-maintenance#:~:text=Apply%20between%201%20and%203,wet%20turf%20to%20avoid%20burning.

I've found that my lawn does better when I'm at the higher end of that range and I haven't had a thatch build up problem at 3 lbs per year. A few things to note:
- My Zeon is about 9 years old and I scalp it in the spring. I like to give it a little extra juice to get it going after scalping it.
- I applied 1/4" of sand about a month ago. That was the second time it has been sanded. I had Level Lawns do it the first time about 7 years ago and I didn't think they did a very good job. I did it myself this year with a 48" level lawn rake. It took the better part of 2 days. I used river sand. It's a tried and true topdressing around here and I don't buy the idea of trying to tackle both leveling the lawn and feeding the lawn at the same time with a mix. Those are 2 different goals with each needing a targeted solution.
- In past years, I typically cut it every week. This year I've been closer to every 4 days. Only because I'm home and I don't mind doing it. And the lawn doesn't seem to mind.
- My California Trimmer manual says that I have it set at 9/16", but I think the grass is a bit taller than that, but not more than an inch. This is the first year that I've kept it under 2". In the early years it didn't do so well when I cut it shorter. It's doing fine at the lower height this year. I'm not sure if that is due to the amount of rain that we've had and the higher frequency of cutting, or that the grass is just more established, or both.

I took these pics a couple days ago. I need to work on the landscaping beds in the front of the house next spring. Some of the shrubs were overgrown. I tore them out, but haven't gotten around to replacing them yet. The lawn is looking primo though. There are more than the normal number of walkers these days due to CoVID-19 and I am constantly getting comments about how awesome the grass looks.


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## ZachUA (Dec 28, 2018)

Troyman said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> > How much fert are you applying to your zeon? I just laid zeon about 3-4 weeks ago and it seems to be doing well so far. According to the zoysiagrass yearly maintenance article I found on clemson site it says: fertilize with ½ to 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in June or July using a fertilizer that is also high in potassium, such as a 15-0-15. The need for phosphorus is determined by a soil test.
> ...


Great info and great looking lawn! If I were a walker you'd catch me taking pics of that! Do you split the 3lbs of nitrogen up into three 1lb applications?


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## Troyman (Jun 15, 2020)

ZachUA said:


> How much fert are you applying to your zeon? I just laid zeon about 3-4 weeks ago and it seems to be doing well so far. According to the zoysiagrass yearly maintenance article I found on clemson site it says: fertilize with ½ to 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in June or July using a fertilizer that is also high in potassium, such as a 15-0-15. The need for phosphorus is determined by a soil test.
> 
> I'm going to send off for a soil test but it may be a week or so between collecting soil, mailing, and hearing back from the soil folks. In meantime I didn't want to miss out on the june/july fert app.


Yes, I break it up into 3 applications. I apply the first application later than most. It's hard to see everyone's lawn looking greener before mine, but it truly is a tortoise vs the hare scenario. I wait until I have really good green-up before applying the first round of fertilizer. That took until about mid-May this year, which I think is quite late. I hit it again every 5-6 weeks. This year, that was late June and I'll hit it again the first week of August.

As I mentioned in a prior post, I apply fungicide as well as a preventive in the spring. I did that in late April this year. You will definitely want to stay on top of that. I have not typically applied anything to prevent fungus in the fall, but I'm considering doing so this year. It was a problem for me in years past and I want to avoid it in the future.


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## WDE46 (Mar 11, 2019)

Greendoc said:


> Rotary mowed Zoysia is easy to look good from afar, but up close, it is far from good. In other words, I could live with that looking at it a block away, but not in my own front lawn.


Those of us with shitty canvases for our lawn may disagree. My front lawn will blow until it's leveled significantly and who knows when I'll get to it. I wish it was zoysia so I could cut it less and scalp less.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

I really like my Bermuda.

But I do envy how Zoysia doesn't scalp no where as bad as Bermuda!


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## mheup (May 22, 2018)

Top dressed the lawn with 5 tons of sand 2 weeks ago, cut to 1.1" yesterday, and 0.7" today. Amazing to see just how quickly the grass has absorbed the sand. Zoysia in Atlanta, 3rd season post installation.

June 27; 5 tons USGA sand on 5k sqft zoysia





July 12 cut @ 0.7", 2 weeks post leveling


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## jayhawk (Apr 18, 2017)

ENC_Lawn said:


> I really like my Bermuda.
> 
> But I do envy how Zoysia doesn't scalp no where as bad as Bermuda!


Yep. I know what you mean, beauty strip is tifgrand
 it's rather level/stable

Stupid neighbors pay to cut their Bermuda bi-weekly.... imagine


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

@jayhawk Thanks for posting Jayhawk.

Perfect example...whats surprising is that's Tifgrand too. To my knowledge one of the slower growing Bermuda's...

How many days since your last mow.

Your Zoysia looks great!!!


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## jayhawk (Apr 18, 2017)

Bermuda I cut every 3-4 days, yes it doesn't grow as aggressive as it's relatives


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

@mheup your lawn looks great!


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## DFWLawnNut (Jul 7, 2020)

Troyman said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> > How much fert are you applying to your zeon? I just laid zeon about 3-4 weeks ago and it seems to be doing well so far. According to the zoysiagrass yearly maintenance article I found on clemson site it says: fertilize with ½ to 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet in June or July using a fertilizer that is also high in potassium, such as a 15-0-15. The need for phosphorus is determined by a soil test.
> ...


Always fun getting lookie loos. How do you like that Cali Trimmer? Im trying to find a decent reel mower that wont cost a couple of paychecks. lol


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

Question for you Zoysia guys...the mantrella's seem to look the best...but they have this matted down look...almost like the grass grows stuck to the ground sideways "if that makes sense"...vs vertical growth.

Does this make it more difficult to reel mow?


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Matrella selections like Zeon will fall over if you are maintaining them over 0.75" tall.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

Greendoc said:


> Matrella selections like Zeon will fall over if you are maintaining them over 0.75" tall.


@Greendoc :thumbup:


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

When Zeon is way overdue for a mowing or it is kept at over 0.75" it looks more like Fine Fescue rather than a warm season grass


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## dubyadubya87 (Mar 10, 2020)

Greendoc said:


> When Zeon is way overdue for a mowing or it is kept at over 0.75" it looks more like Fine Fescue rather than a warm season grass


I have a neighbor, that for the longest time, I could not determine what type of grass it was. It looked like fine fescue, but in our climate I knew it couldn't be. They keep it too high as y'all are discussing and it kills me every time I go by.


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## boots4321 (Apr 3, 2019)




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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

Spammage said:


> @ENC_Lawn I'm an imperial guy too, but Google tells me that 6.45 cm^2 = 1 inch ^2. Keep in mind that there findings are in bare dirt. I've also found that even Meyer (near the bottom of the list) is not going to be stopped. Think of it like the tortoise and the hare. Slow and steady wins the race.


@Spammage I somehow missed this post...thanks for the help.

I am still a little confused so when the chart of different cultivars shows "around 5,000"

What exactly does the 5,000 mean?

5,000 equal to 5 cm?

Thanks


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

ENC_Lawn said:


> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> > @ENC_Lawn I'm an imperial guy too, but Google tells me that 6.45 cm^2 = 1 inch ^2. Keep in mind that there findings are in bare dirt. I've also found that even Meyer (near the bottom of the list) is not going to be stopped. Think of it like the tortoise and the hare. Slow and steady wins the race.
> ...


It's 5000 centimeters squared, or 775 square inches, or 5.38 square feet.


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## ENC_Lawn (Sep 9, 2018)

Spammage said:


> ENC_Lawn said:
> 
> 
> > Spammage said:
> ...


Thanks!


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