# First real soil test after "successful" reno



## vayjining (Sep 13, 2021)

Yard is great but needs some work from my mistakes during reno. First time grass person and converted 4ac of ag fields and CRP to 100% TTTF. had a yardmastery test done but the guy I buy my seed from basically said that money is better spent on beer and to find an extension or ag office to get one done. So I did..... results are as follows and if I had to guess...they are bad. Do I just not fertilize this year and focus on other things?


----------



## Lawn Noob (Jul 26, 2020)

Had to get out the pounds per acre to ppm calculator. Your macros appear to be fine enough. If the lawn looks good, why worry? I'm not a big worrier on micros. If they're off, I'm sure someone else will chime in.

It looks to me like you only need to do general maintenance. I'd use 10-10-10 for that a couple times a year with urea as my main nitrogen source.

Per the Yard Mastery test; I sent a portion of one single sample to both waypoint and My Soil. The results show a very similar trend. Now that I have a comparative basis, the My Soil/Soil Savvy/Yard Mastery tests are good enough to provide me directional guidance, in my opinion. The thread with results is further down in this forum.


----------



## vayjining (Sep 13, 2021)

Solid advice! Thank you for bringing me back down to Earth lol.


----------



## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

Do you know what method the lab used to get the results? It seems that you have a high CEC soil and a good amount of OM. I'm assuming it's mostly clay soil; a jar test would confirm the  soil texture. Most would say that you have "very good soil"; soil that holds its nutrients and provides it to the lawn when needed.

The lab did NOT make any P or K recommendations, they are both well above MLSN to result in any nutrient deficiency in all of the areas you've sampled. See  Ridgerunner's Soil Test thread and look at the sufficient values once you find out the method that your lab used for the test. You might have to convert your results from lbs/acre to ppm.

Area 2 has a high pH which can cause iron (Fe) to bind with calcium (Ca). You can apply the elemental sulfur as recommended to try to lower the pH. Spraying iron can also mitigate iron chlorosis, if that area doesn't seem to as dark as the other areas. See the  FAS Guide  if your into spraying. I didn't see sprayers in your list of equipment in your profile and you have a large area of lawn to cover.

In regards to Area 3, problem area, judging just from the soil test I would imagine that the soil is very tight and very hard; possible erosion issues. It's likely due to the Ca:Mg ratio; normally the solution is to add more calcium. But your soil had a high CEC and will take more material to make the adjustments. Post a new thread in the Cool Season forum if you have specific problems. Pics of the problem areas and description would also help.

Since you just completed a reno in the fall. Soon feeding with nitrogen in spring might be necessary; see the *Spring* section of the  Cool Season Reno Guide for nitrogen rates.

Note: Bumping for others to comment or recommendations.


----------



## vayjining (Sep 13, 2021)

I do not know the methodology used for results. I do really appreciate the insight here. It is old farm field and in our area we have "good dirt" for about 18" and then pure brown butter clay.

For my problem area, you would be absolutely right. It was a high traffic high compact area last year and had remained pretty hard unless we get insane rains. It facilitated germination but it ended up dying. I had thought of aerating the entire property on a weekend....but like anything I haven't done before its scary....and I dont want to somehow make it worse. I have worked in some peat/topsoil to those areas and hoping it will help.

I did take the fall n blitz approach with good success. Also have a masterblend (tyler) right up the road as well. Aside from putting seed down this upcoming weekend for no real reason other than I am hardheaded(prob won't grow) I'm super excited for this season.


----------



## vayjining (Sep 13, 2021)

Also totally forgot to update my equipment list in the profile. Gunna get on that!

For ease of use here is the "random Joeschmoe" offerings I have easy access too. They had said I could easily get on their approved customer list and get access to more of the greens grade stuff they have but this is more than enough for me. Probably give their starter or premium a shot!


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I am assuming this is an M3 test.

The N Side looks worst than the rest and overall it is not bad. To go from lb/acre to ppm, just divide by 2. The N Side has a higher pH than the other 2. The other 2 look almost identical. No need for P or K in any of the 3. I would use AMS for nitrogen and that's it.

Your "problem" area is likely just getting too dry. Areas without turf cover will dry out faster.


----------



## vayjining (Sep 13, 2021)

Awesome. Yea they are very compacted from building. Going to work in peat and topsoil. The spots are easy to see.....nothing is there lol. Tried a bit today and it was working very well. Is compost a decent ammendment? I have a plant right up the road that would be vastly cheaper than pallets of peat.....well I imagine. Could rent an aerator but I have a horrible brookweed problem right now.

Going to just leave it ugly and work my tail off to prepare for another fall.


----------

