# 2018- Prep to Green Up!



## FATC1TY (Jul 12, 2017)

With the cold gripping most of us, and our sad brown lawns begging for attention, I thought we'd get down a thread for prepping, dates, etc for the upcoming yard explosion in the spring. Equipment or chemicals you prep and buy and plan to use.

Being my first spring with a reel mower, looking forward to tackling the yard from the beginning and seeing how it responds.

Currently around 1.5/1.75 inches in HOC of a very bumpy yard. I plan to scalp it in two runs, first with my rotary and then with my reel to clean it all up. My hope is that with 50-70 percent green up I plan to bring in some sand to put down a thin layer and fill in some spots.

Trying to overlap the sand with the Pre-M application in march, and then another pre-m in may time frame I think to ensure I nuke any goosegrass I've been fighting last yr.

Hoping ya give PGR a run this year. Not just to get less mowing which I enjoy, but in hopes of changing the growth of my grass to have a thicker and more dense laterally growth. I'm worried my rocky and eroded soil is part of my growth issues.

I'm going stir crazy not being able to work in the yard.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

I'm currently at .550" and I am planning on starting the scalp around mid to late February and taking it down to .250" or below and try to maintain it at or around .300". After the scalping is done I will go over the lawn with my verticutter in 2 directions at 45° angles and after removing all the material go over on more time with the Baroness to clean everything up.

I already have everything I need for the coming year as far as chemicals/fertilizer goes except that I need to get some more PGR as I only have enough for one, maybe two applications. I also need to run by Tractor Supply and pick up some Liquid Iron to add to my fertilizer spray solution I plan on implementing this year. I usually mix my ferrous sulfate and ammonium sulfate solution when applying PGR but I figure this may be an easier way to go.

I also plan on doing a heavy leveling job once everything is greened up and growing good which should hopefully be around early to mid May. I will core aerate before topdressing in order to help incorporate the sand into the soil profile.


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## raldridge2315 (Jul 1, 2017)

Mightyquinn said:


> I also need to run by Tractor Supply and pick up some Liquid Iron to add to my fertilizer spray solution I plan on implementing this year.


TurfGrassPro Blade Iron (59.95 for 2 1/2 Gallons) and Turf Nectar AC 15-0-0 with 6% Iron (55.81 for 2 1/2 gallons) are cheaper and are the same thing as the Pro Solutions. The both ship free. https://www.domyown.com/turf-nectar-ac-1500-with-iron-p-2530.html?

I use the Blade Iron every two weeks at 6oz /1000. In years past I used straight urea monthly, but recently have tried Milorganite monthly. The problem with the Milo is cost. I am considering switching to ammonium sulfate every four weeks with the Blade Iron every two this year. As I understand it you are using the liquid form of ammonium sulfate. Is that correct? Do you have a fertilizer injection system with your irrigation or do you do it by hand?


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

raldridge2315 said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> > I also need to run by Tractor Supply and pick up some Liquid Iron to add to my fertilizer spray solution I plan on implementing this year.
> ...


How are these cheaper than $29.99 for 2.5 gallons @ TSC?


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## raldridge2315 (Jul 1, 2017)

My mistake. I thought it was a one gallon jug. Sorry.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

I do have a fertilizer injection system(EZ-FLO) but that is not what I am using. I am using my Franken Spreader-Mate to apply the fertilizer @3 gallons/K. I upgraded the pump and nozzles to accomplish this. My plan is to use a combination of Urea(46-0-0) and Ammonium Sulfate (21-0-0) dissolved in water, which they both do really easily. I have 100 lbs of AS and 150 lbs of Urea, so I'm pretty set for the next 2-3 years. My plan right now is to fertilize every 3 weeks and add the Iron to my fertilizer mix to help give it a boost.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

raldridge2315 said:


> My mistake. I thought it was a one gallon jug. Sorry.


No problem :thumbup: I figured that's what happened


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

Mightyquinn said:


> I do have a fertilizer injection system(EZ-FLO) but that is not what I am using. I am using my Franken Spreader-Mate to apply the fertilizer @3 gallons/K. I upgraded the pump and nozzles to accomplish this. My plan is to use a combination of Urea(46-0-0) and Ammonium Sulfate (21-0-0) dissolved in water, which they both do really easily. I have 100 lbs of AS and 150 lbs of Urea, so I'm pretty set for the next 2-3 years. My plan right now is to fertilize every 3 weeks and add the Iron to my fertilizer mix to help give it a boost.


I also forgot to add that I have 50lbs of Potassium Sulfate(0-0-53) to add to my fertilizer mix. I was unable to source any of it locally so I ended up getting it from GreenwayBiotech. It's a little more expensive this way @ $2/lb but it's very water soluble and should fit my needs very well.


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## FATC1TY (Jul 12, 2017)

Any location to buy pgr or iron spray online?

Ideally in not so large vessels?


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

FATC1TY said:


> Any location to buy pgr or iron spray online?
> 
> Ideally in not so large vessels?


There was a PGR group buy in the Equipment Exchange subforum late last season. I think there was some discussion of doing another one this spring.


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## CenlaLowell (Apr 21, 2017)

This year I plan on starting spring with a pre M probably around February or March. Fertilizing every six to eight weeks and keeping my st Augustine at HOC 4 inches. I will spot spray weeds as needed with Celsius. Hopefully we get some more St Augustine grass lovers on this board.


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## Pharmower (Apr 19, 2017)

I use  this to time my spring pre-m application. When soil temps get up to 57-64 degrees F I know it's time to lay down my Prodiamine. Usually it's mid to late Feb in my area.


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## mowww (Jan 16, 2018)

I am planning to use 35-0-5 90% 180-day Duration with 0.067 Acelepryn/ 0.164 Dimension at 7.14 lb/1000 for around 0.1 lb/N/week. I had great results with the product last year from the single app. Here is a dry August photo and a November photo just to give you an idea of the legs that product has on it. Only got a little crab on the boulevard where I underapplied.


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## high leverage (Jun 11, 2017)

Pharmower said:


> I use  this to time my spring pre-m application. When soil temps get up to 57-64 degrees F I know it's time to lay down my Prodiamine. Usually it's mid to late Feb in my area.


Thats a good website to use. However if you wait till the 57-64 degree threshold you could already have crabgrass that has germinated. Areas of turf/soil that are next to sidewalks, driveways, walls, etc... will heat much faster than the middle of your lawn. It's always good to put pre-m down a few weeks before the the threshold you mentioned.

Some of us warm season guys have areas of our lawns that never go completely dormant even with temps that fall into the single digits because they are next to walls that radiate the solar heat.


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## Pharmower (Apr 19, 2017)

Thanks for the tip

Thats a good website to use. However if you wait till the 57-64 degree threshold you could already have crabgrass that has germinated. Areas of turf/soil that are next to sidewalks, driveways, walls, etc... will heat much faster than the middle of your lawn. It's always good to put pre-m down a few weeks before the the threshold you mentioned.

Some of us warm season guys have areas of our lawns that never go completely dormant even with temps that fall into the single digits because they are next to walls that radiate the solar heat.


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## OutdoorEnvy (Sep 27, 2017)

I'm currently at 2" and have some major improvements before green up. I have to remove about 200sf of what I believe is Meyers grass. I'm going to lay bermuda sod in it's place so it will match the rest of the yard. I also need to lower the height around my driveway pavement lines and smooth the yard out a bit. I want to scalp it to .75" and then cut it at 1.25" and see how it looks. Basically want it to look as nice as I can get it with a rotary mower.


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## high leverage (Jun 11, 2017)

OutdoorEnvy said:


> I'm currently at 2" and have some major improvements before green up. I have to remove about 200sf of what I believe is Meyers grass. I'm going to lay bermuda sod in it's place so it will match the rest of the yard. I also need to lower the height around my driveway pavement lines and smooth the yard out a bit. I want to scalp it to .75" and then cut it at 1.25" and see how it looks. Basically want it to look as nice as I can get it with a rotary mower.


Your going to have issue lowering the Honda HRX to that setting. More than likely you'll be hitting dirt. The best I've ever achieved is the third notch or 2" according to Honda. Although this isn't the true HOC. This is after I've cut the lawn well below 1" with a McLane. The Honda has a much longer cutting deck thus causing the scalping issues. Even at the 1.25 setting you'll be ripping the Bermuda out. The only way you'll achieve the result stated is steeping up to a reel mower or better yet greens mower.


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## balistek (Jun 5, 2017)

should I hit the winter weeds with some celsius? Got a good bit of clover patch and other broadleaves. I pulled some weed clumps in the front. Temps are mid 50s-low 60s during day and mid 40s at night over here. I sprayed some prodiamine in the front, but it was late around beginning of december. Really want to get a good headstart this season. 
Thanks


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

balistek said:


> should I hit the winter weeds with some celsius? Got a good bit of clover patch and other broadleaves. I pulled some weed clumps in the front. Temps are mid 50s-low 60s during day and mid 40s at night over here. I sprayed some prodiamine in the front, but it was late around beginning of december. Really want to get a good headstart this season.
> Thanks


Is Celsius all you have on hand for weeds? If so, then yes, you can spray it but it will take a little bit longer for it to show any signs of killing the weed due to the lower temps.


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## balistek (Jun 5, 2017)

Mightyquinn said:


> balistek said:
> 
> 
> > should I hit the winter weeds with some celsius? Got a good bit of clover patch and other broadleaves. I pulled some weed clumps in the front. Temps are mid 50s-low 60s during day and mid 40s at night over here. I sprayed some prodiamine in the front, but it was late around beginning of december. Really want to get a good headstart this season.
> ...


I think I have some trimec southern I bought a long time ago. I could try that. I think it is more harsh on st. aug. That is why I was considering the celsius. But I do want some faster action


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## FATC1TY (Jul 12, 2017)

Out of curiosity-

I've got some ronstar g left- planned to use it to be sure I nuke any chance of goosegrass more so, but my fall has been pretty clean. Random small poa is all I've seen. Maybe a spurge or two at best near neighbors yard at the fence line.

Time frame for a split dose ?? I've heard of folks doing 2-3 apps. Fall and then like a late feb and then a may app to really toss down a summer barrier.

Looking for temps I guess since time is relative and we are starting to want to warm up here in Atlanta some days!


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## ATLawn (May 25, 2017)

As this is my first spring attempting to go in with a fully laid out plan, I'm curious about a few things...

1. Does anybody verticut/dethatch/scarify at or around the same time they scalp? If so, which order have you found works best?

I've got a 1.5 yr old lawn that hasnt been dethatched or verticut since sod was laid. Lots of dead growth/clippings that just havent decomposed. I'm wanting to open up the canopy as soon as possible.

2. Under ideal conditions, do you try to make your pre-e app before or after your spring scalp? If I've got 2" of dormant bermuda right now, intuition tells me the liquid pre-e app I'll be making would set in and form a more even/solid barrier if I only had .5" of bermuda, post-scalp. Am I thinking too hard here?

Thanks for the insight!


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## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

I typically scalp once, then use a verticutter/scarifier/power-rake (whatever you can get) over the lawn and scalp again.

After I'm done and have removed as much material as I can, I apply PreE.


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

Mightyquinn said:


> I'm currently at .550" and I am planning on starting the scalp around mid to late February and taking it down to .250" or below and try to maintain it at or around .300". After the scalping is done I will go over the lawn with my verticutter in 2 directions at 45° angles and after removing all the material go over on more time with the Baroness to clean everything up.
> 
> I already have everything I need for the coming year as far as chemicals/fertilizer goes except that I need to get some more PGR as I only have enough for one, maybe two applications. I also need to run by Tractor Supply and pick up some Liquid Iron to add to my fertilizer spray solution I plan on implementing this year. I usually mix my ferrous sulfate and ammonium sulfate solution when applying PGR but I figure this may be an easier way to go.
> 
> I also plan on doing a heavy leveling job once everything is greened up and growing good which should hopefully be around early to mid May. I will core aerate before topdressing in order to help incorporate the sand into the soil profile.


You scalped and done your verticutting yet? I'm trying to figure out when to time scalping. I'm currently planning for whenever it finally quits raining.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

I plan on starting it on Sunday and see how far I get. Then I'm just going to keep after it until it's done.


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## J_nick (Jan 28, 2017)

Here's my plan. Grass was put to sleep ~ 5/8" in the fall.

Verticut (N-S)
Rotary for clean up
Verticut (E-W)
Rotary
Reel HOC 1/2"
Reel HOC 3/8"
If all goes well at 3/8" I might take her down to 1/4" and try to maintain at 3/8"
Rotary for final clean up
Pre Emergent


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

J_nick said:


> Here's my plan. Grass was put to sleep ~ 5/8" in the fall.
> 
> Verticut (N-S)
> Rotary for clean up
> ...


Hmm, that's interesting - have you considered *NNE-SSW* on the first pass and *ESE-WNW* on the second pass? I think it could really help take your lawn to the next level.

:lol:


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## J_nick (Jan 28, 2017)

@Ware

I haven't gave that any thought :crazy:

I put the directions on there to show the perpendicular passes. The N-S I'm intentionally doing first because that's the longest passes for my yard and the most efficient way of mowing. I figured the first pass will bring up the most material.


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

Going to channel a bit of LCN - Go ahead and bust out the http://suncalc.net so you can best angle your stripes, by time of year, to maximize your lawn dominance.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

I just plan on mowing as low as I can with the Baroness & Verticutter attachment and then take the JD Verticutter in 2 directions at 45° angles to help thin it out some more. Then go back over it again with the Baroness w/verticutter until I can get it down to hopefully .250". After all of that I may take the JD Verticutter and go over some high spots in the lawn to take them down a bit to help smooth it out some before my first sanding of the year in May sometime.


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

Ware said:


> J_nick said:
> 
> 
> > Here's my plan. Grass was put to sleep ~ 5/8" in the fall.
> ...


@ware I've considered this.

How do I get in on all this prep for green up verti cutting action? I'm feeling a bit left out. I still have some frozen ground and it's snowing a bit today for me.


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## J_nick (Jan 28, 2017)

wardconnor said:


> How do I get in on all this prep for green up verti cutting action? I'm feeling a bit left out. I still have some frozen ground and it's snowing a bit today for me.


Be careful what you wish for. We will all be looking like this 5 minutes in


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## DetroitRocker (Jun 14, 2017)

Is there any issue with combining several products in one application? For example, PGR and iron together once every two - three weeks?


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

DetroitRocker said:


> Is there any issue with combining several products in one application? For example, PGR and iron together once every two - three weeks?


Not all. I do it all the time. Is there anything else you want to mix?


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## gooodawgs (Jul 10, 2020)

@Mightyquinn do you still use that Tractor Supply ProSolutions Iron? I'm driving by one later this week and debating getting that or ordering Feature. Curious if the TSC is still working for you.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

gooodawgs said:


> @Mightyquinn do you still use that Tractor Supply ProSolutions Iron? I'm driving by one later this week and debating getting that or ordering Feature. Curious if the TSC is still working for you.


I never ended up buying it and using it as I think I went with FEature instead and now I'm using Main Event. You will get more bang for your buck with FEature/Main Event.


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