# LaMotte Soil Test results



## scostell (9 mo ago)

So I'm trying to get my lawn in order for once and wanted to start off with a soil test. I like the idea of doing it myself to help learn and get a quicker turn around. Saw some good reviews about the LaMotte soil test kits so I went ahead and purchased it.

My NJ lawn has a sun/shade mix (think that is tall fescue, fine fescue, and probably some others as well).

The results of the test are..

PH: 6.0
N: Trace amounts (sounds like barely any)
P: Trace amounts
K: Very Low

I've got 8000 sqft of grass.

one other concern/question...

- there seems to be a good amount of moss in any place where the grass in thin or not growing. Do I have to take care of that before applying anything? Seems like it would prevent any nutrients from getting into the soil.

So at this point in the spring (Mid May) what would be my best course of action?

Thanks!
-Scott


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

I suggest you send a soil sample to Rutgers:
https://njaes.rutgers.edu/soil-testing-lab/

I had not heard of LaMotte kits and the reviews I saw on Amazon are negative, that the tests are inaccurate. Apparently it just gives a rough estimate of levels (low, medium, high) and no recommendations.


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## scostell (9 mo ago)

Virginiagal said:


> I suggest you send a soil sample to Rutgers:
> https://njaes.rutgers.edu/soil-testing-lab/
> 
> I had not heard of LaMotte kits and the reviews I saw on Amazon are negative, that the tests are inaccurate. Apparently it just gives a rough estimate of levels (low, medium, high) and no recommendations.


Thanks @Virginiagal I'll do that


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

One of the most useful pieces of information from a soil test is to measure the pH of the soil and if the soil is acidic, to measure the buffer pH which is then used to make a recommendation on how much lime is needed to bring the pH to the target pH (most often 6.5). You have a pH number but not a buffer pH. You know your pH is somewhat low but you don't know how much lime is needed. Some soils are lightly buffered and others are heavily buffered and they take different amounts of lime to move the pH. The Rutgers test will do a buffer pH and make a lime recommendation. They'll also recommend amounts of phosphorus and potassium if needed.


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## scostell (9 mo ago)

@Virginiagal Will I request just the standard "Soil Fertility" test from Rutgers?


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Yes


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## scostell (9 mo ago)

I got my soil test back from Rutgers and can someone interpret and help me create a rough plan of attack? Thank you!


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

You need 95 lb of calcitic lime per 1000 sq ft. Apply 50 lb per 1000 sq ft in one application and the rest later. Best times for application are spring and fall. If you can't find calcitic lime, dolomitic lime will be ok. Look for regular lime, not fast acting.

When you fertilize, use a balanced fertilizer, like 10-10-10. You need nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in about equal amounts. They gave the schedule of when to fertilize,

They gave very detailed directions, Did you have questions? It may be a little confusing because the instructions for trees are different than the instructions for turfgrass. I'd concentrate on the instructions for turfgrass. Trees can generally take care of themselves.


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## scostell (9 mo ago)

Is it to late to add the first application of lime? still in spring but only have a couple weeks left here in NJ. Temps are starting to get into the 80s.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

You can do the lime now. Water it in. Then do the next application late fall.


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## scostell (9 mo ago)

Lime applied! Now I'm off to find some 10-10-10 fertilizer. Here is my "math" on how much I should buy/put down on my 8000 sqft lawn.

*Report Says*


*My Math*
In the "DO THIS" instructions it says I want to achieve a 0.75 pound Nitrogen per 1000 sqft. so...

A 40lb bag of 10-10-10. That means it's 10% nitrogen
10% of 40lbs = 4lbs of Nitrogen per bag.
So that will cover approximately 5,333 sqft of yard (4lbs / 0.75) 
So for my 8k lawn I would need about 1 and 1/2 bags.

Does this seem correct?

Also, do I apply the full .75lbs/1000sqft in one application or break it up and apply 1 now and 1 in fall?

Thanks so much @Virginiagal!


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Your math is correct. Another way to do this is divide .75 by .10 to get 7.5 lb needed per 1000 sq ft to get 0.75 lb per 1000 sq ft. Then multiply 7.5 x 8 to get 60 lb needed for 8,000 sq ft.

Did you apply any fertilizer this spring? It's close to summer and the recommendations are for early April, late August, and October, This is not early April. If you have already applied anything, wait until late August for the 10-10-10. If you haven't applied anything, I'd go light now (no more than .5 lb of N per 1000 sq ft) with a slow release product instead of 10-10-10 which is going to be quick release nitrogen.

You can do .75-1.0 lb of nitrogen each application in the fall if you're doing it monthly. If you want to break it up and do it every two weeks, in the fall,, do a half application each time then.


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## scostell (9 mo ago)

I did put some starter fertilizer down about a month ago. So I'll wait till late august to start the 10-10-10.

I really appreciate the help. It finally feel like I'm gaining some control over my lawn and have a "plan".

So during the summer, do I do anything to my lawn besides water and weed prevention?


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Weed prevention? Preemergent should have gone down in early spring. If you have weeds, you could do some postemergent. Follow directions on the product, as there are likely temperature limitations. Weeds have to be actively growing. If fungal diseases pop up, you might need fungicides. If grubs are an issue, there are grubicides, which have to be applied at the proper time. Hopefully you won't have either problem.


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