# Things Turned Disastrous



## Jbird95 (Jun 24, 2020)

This yellow color pops up every August. I think I'm suffering from chlorosis (7.9ph and low P)or some type of fungus. Any advise on what this is?


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

@Jbird95 Are these areas typically drier, the same, or wetter than the green areas?

What has your fertility looked like in the last month or so? Granular or sprays? Any micronutrients? This will help get you on track.


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## cldrunner (May 14, 2019)

@Jbird95 check your roots in those areas. I'm thinking early signs of TARR/Bermuda decline. Roots would be darker and easier to pull out.


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

His lawn type is Zoysia. I am not sure if TARR gets Zoysia. Know that Pythium, Rhizoctonia and Nematodes do get Zoysia. Basics first are sun, water, NPK and micronutrients, then start looking for pathogenic causes. For me, random yellow patches in a Zoysia lawn that has sun, water, and nutrients in order is alarming to say the least. Last time I saw yellow patches in Zoysia, that was a lawn affected by Nematodes.


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## Jbird95 (Jun 24, 2020)

@Greendoc 
I have Zoysia in back, the area that is declining is U3 bermuda in front. Sorry for the confusion


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## cldrunner (May 14, 2019)

@Greendoc I agree. It sure seems odd. In Texas TARR was mostly contained to St. Augustine but in recent years has really shifted into bermuda and Zoysia lawns. Here is an article from Neil Sperry who is a local author and radio host.

https://www.expressnews.com/lifestyle/home-garden/article/Neil-Sperry-Clueless-lawn-caretaker-scalps-15279098.php

In addition Texas A&M University wrote this:

Take-all root rot is a serious disease caused by the soil- borne fungus Gaeumanno- myces graminis var. graminis. Take-all root rot causes brown, dead areas to develop in turfgrass. The disease was first described in Texas in 1991 on St. Augustinegrass. Since then, it has been confirmed on bermudagrass (where it is often called bermuda- grass decline), zoysiagrass and centi- pedegrass.

https://www.uaex.edu/publications/pdf/FSA-7560.pdf
https://agrilifeextension.tamu.edu/library/landscaping/take-all-root-rot/


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

I look for blackened roots and little to no fine root hairs on those roots as symptoms of TARR. TARR is worse on alkaline soils and suppressed by elevated levels of micronutrients. I have not seen much TARR in my lawns since routinely applying chelated micronutrients as part of the nutrient program.

TARR/Bermuda Decline is the main reason why most maintained turf areas in Hawaii are no longer Bermuda. In another time, many home lawns consisted of Tifgreen mowed low. Now those same lawns are all Zoysia


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## Jbird95 (Jun 24, 2020)

@Greendoc I put down 21-7-14 (50% slow release N) at 1# per 1000sqft April, June and Sept. I am not knowledgeable about micros and I just completed my soil analysis and will use a 10-20-10 moving forward. At the start of the season this bermuda looks pretty good until late August, then the discoloring kicks in like clock work.

@CarolinaCuttin 
You ask good questions. Some of the areas seem to be concentrated in 2' diameter around my sprinkler head.

I have some Heritage G on standby if that is recommended course of action,


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## jal (May 30, 2020)

Greendoc said:


> I look for blackened roots and little to no fine root hairs on those roots as symptoms of TARR. TARR is worse on alkaline soils and suppressed by elevated levels of micronutrients. I have not seen much TARR in my lawns since routinely applying chelated micronutrients as part of the nutrient program.
> 
> TARR/Bermuda Decline is the main reason why most maintained turf areas in Hawaii are no longer Bermuda. In another time, many home lawns consisted of Tifgreen mowed low. Now those same lawns are all Zoysia


@Greendoc What 'chelated micronutrient' product do you use? Or is it a custom made thing?


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## TN Hawkeye (May 7, 2018)

Jbird95 said:


> @Greendoc I put down 21-7-14 (50% slow release N) at 1# per 1000sqft April, June and Sept. I am not knowledgeable about micros and I just completed my soil analysis and will use a 10-20-10 moving forward. At the start of the season this bermuda looks pretty good until late August, then the discoloring kicks in like clock work.
> 
> @CarolinaCuttin
> You ask good questions. Some of the areas seem to be concentrated in 2' diameter around my sprinkler head.
> ...


Is that one pound of N per 1000 or one pound of fertilizer per 1000?


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## Jbird95 (Jun 24, 2020)

@TN Hawkeye 
1# of N per 1000


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

jal said:


> Greendoc said:
> 
> 
> > I look for blackened roots and little to no fine root hairs on those roots as symptoms of TARR. TARR is worse on alkaline soils and suppressed by elevated levels of micronutrients. I have not seen much TARR in my lawns since routinely applying chelated micronutrients as part of the nutrient program.
> ...


I use FEATure 6-0-0. Has Iron, Manganese, Magnesium and Sulfur. TARR and similar patch disease are often helped by Manganese supplementation. https://acsess.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.2135/cropsci2003.1395 The disease organism for Bermuda Decline is Gaeumannomyces gramanis var Graminis. Similar to the organism that causes Take All on Bent greens. Wish I knew this in the 1990s, Manganese would be cheaper than the fungicides I used.


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## jal (May 30, 2020)

Greendoc said:


> I use FEATure 6-0-0. Has Iron, Manganese, Magnesium and Sulfur. TARR and similar patch disease are often helped by Manganese supplementation. https://acsess.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.2135/cropsci2003.1395 The disease organism for Bermuda Decline is Gaeumannomyces gramanis var Graminis. Similar to the organism that causes Take All on Bent greens. Wish I knew this in the 1990s, Manganese would be cheaper than the fungicides I used.


Thanks, that's helpful to know.


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## cldrunner (May 14, 2019)

@Greendoc @jal I agree with the Manganese. I use a granular micronutrient package from Lesco that has 8% Mn.

https://www.siteone.com/en/080299-lesco-iron-plus-micronutrient-20fe-8mn-5mg-55s-2zn-50-lb/p/11534


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## cldrunner (May 14, 2019)

@Greendoc @Jaybird @jal 
Here is a picture this morning of my property line with TARR/Bermuda decline on my neighbors side. This lawn looked great 3 -4 weeks ago but had the same issues last fall and spring. I have not cut my side in 10 days and it came out of regulation about 7 days ago. He has a much superior Tiff than mine but I treated mine with Azoxystrobin last Fall and this Spring but not this Fall yet. I attribute my side is better due to Fungicide and Manganese from micro nutrient package.



https://i.postimg.cc/7ZMRz7Mr/Sept-5th-2020.jpg


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## Jbird95 (Jun 24, 2020)

@cldrunner 
Thanks CLD-
After getting on my belly and examining, I see lesions. I'm gonna say it's take all root rot. Previously I used fungicide as a curative. Moving forward I will maintain a preventive strategy. Gotta say, fungicides are expensive.


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## Jbird95 (Jun 24, 2020)

@Greendoc 
Can I apply Feature with my 1 gal B&G sprayer?


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## cldrunner (May 14, 2019)

@Jbird95 If you are looking at Azoxystrobin you may want to take a look at Abound. https://chemicalwarehouse.com/products/abound-fungicide?_pos=1&_sid=e82972d47&_ss=r

There are a few threads on using this. It is not labeled for residential turf but it has the same active ingrediant as Azoxy 2SC. I am going to stick with Azoxystrobin and Propiconazole as they seem to be the least expensive fungicides for large lawns.

https://aggieturf.tamu.edu/wp-content/uploads/E-615-Take-all-root-rot-factsheet.pdf

If it is TARR you will notice darker roots and easier to pull out of ground.


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Jbird95 said:


> @Greendoc
> Can I apply Feature with my 1 gal B&G sprayer?


You could, but I would find a bigger sprayer for areas more than 500 sq ft. I do use my B & G can for the rare lawn that is under 500 sq ft.


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## kb02gt (Aug 23, 2019)

Had a bad case of TARR, had my neighbors lawn guy confirm this for me.

Azoxy was okay
Eagle was minutely effective (but not really)
Propiconazole (not so much)
Clearys 3336F @ 4oz/gallon/1000 anhillated my TARR. Afterwards i put down some peat, but my grass is 4.5 inches tall.

Can also use: https://www.amazon.com/Encap-10615-6-Sulfur-Pounds-1250-Square/dp/B00140KMJO/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=sulfur+lawn+encap&qid=1599802697&sr=8-3 to bring down the PH and help with fungus issues

Manganese - this is the element that has been correlated to take-all-root-rot

Make sure what your putting down is either Sulphur based or Chelated - learned this from GrassFactor. Chelated is the best option.
For example, potassium sulfate (aka sulfate of potash), mangnesium sulfate (aka sulfate of magnesium), etc, not nitrogen so much howerver. 
Or for example chelated magnesium, chelated manganese, etc
A great product for this is: https://www.amazon.com/Micronutrient-Nutrients-Simple-Lawn-Fertilizer/dp/B01N19BYG1/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=micronutrients&qid=1599802397&sr=8-11
Can apply with seaweed for increase uptake


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

kb02gt said:


> Had a bad case of TARR, had my neighbors lawn guy confirm this for me.
> 
> Azoxy was okay
> Eagle was minutely effective (but not really)
> ...


A metric ton of 3336 is one of the most effective products for use regarding TARR/Bermuda Decline 
Still wish I knew about Manganese in the 1990s. Back then I applied 3336 with either Chlorothalonil or Mancozeb. Old rate was 8 oz per K on the 3336


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

Would this be okay to spray on the lawn as a micronutrient? Looks like the proportion of manganese is substantially higher than some other products.


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Sure. 16 oz per 1000 sq ft in plenty of water


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## Jbird95 (Jun 24, 2020)

@Greendoc

Here is my impressive fungus. I'm still having difficulty with ID


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## Jbird95 (Jun 24, 2020)

Is there value in still applying fungicide this late in the year? Note my awesome fungus in the pics above.


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## cldrunner (May 14, 2019)

@Jbird95 If you have Take all patch (which is my guess) now is the best time to apply. Azoxystrobin labels say to apply in Spring and Fall. Now is actually the best time or it will look *much worse* in late spring early summer.

The propiconazole label states :Apply Quali-Pro Propiconazole 14.3 to reduce the severity of take-all patch. Make 1 to 2 fall applications in September and October or when night temperatures drop to 55°F, and 1 to 2 spring applications in April and May depending on local specifications.

With you size yard do some research on Abound(less expensive) vs Azoxy.


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## Redeyeback (May 7, 2021)

Greendoc said:


> A metric ton of 3336 is one of the most effective products for use regarding TARR/Bermuda Decline
> Still wish I knew about Manganese in the 1990s. Back then I applied 3336 with either Chlorothalonil or Mancozeb. Old rate was 8 oz per K on the 3336


Just ordered some 3336F, 4oz/gallon/k = metric ton? Reapply in 2 weeks or 4?


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## CenlaLowell (Apr 21, 2017)

Redeyeback said:


> Greendoc said:
> 
> 
> > A metric ton of 3336 is one of the most effective products for use regarding TARR/Bermuda Decline
> ...


3336 14 days reapply the only fungicide that's 28 days is group 11


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## Redeyeback (May 7, 2021)

CenlaLowell said:


> 3336 14 days reapply the only fungicide that's 28 days is group 11


As for the application rate? 8oz/gallon/k or 4oz/gallon/k?


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

Redeyeback said:


> CenlaLowell said:
> 
> 
> > 3336 14 days reapply the only fungicide that's 28 days is group 11
> ...


https://www.domyown.com/msds/Clearys_3336F_Fungicide_Label_2020.pdf


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

@Redeyeback always, always read the label before using a new product. The labels can be rather confusing at first. Good practice is to write on the bottle the app rate you will use to minimize mistakes. It's easy to get distracted/confused.


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## Redeyeback (May 7, 2021)

No I get application rates per labeled instructions. I was specifically asking @Greendoc since he referenced a "metric ton", implying he went above the labeled rate.


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## UFG8RMIKE (Apr 21, 2019)

SCGrassMan said:


> Redeyeback said:
> 
> 
> > CenlaLowell said:
> ...


Clear as mud.

.


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

UFG8RMIKE said:


> SCGrassMan said:
> 
> 
> > Redeyeback said:
> ...


It's 2 floz of 3336F per 1000 sq ft of lawn sprayed using 2 to 4 gallons of water for each 1k sq ft section.


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

It is not a one time application at that rate for Take All treatment either. Monthly 
In conjunction with soil acidification and elevating Manganese levels. Looking for a one application easy button answer, I do not have a good one.


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## Redeyeback (May 7, 2021)

@Greendoc
So I got one application of Heritage G down a week ago. Had 3 days of rain a few days after application. Coming up on the second application timing, but have 10 days of rain forecasted and 85° air temps immediately after.

Are fungicides no longer advisable given the rain/air temps over the next two weeks?


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

Redeyeback said:


> @Greendoc
> So I got one application of Heritage G down a week ago. Had 3 days of rain a few days after application. Coming up on the second application timing, but have 10 days of rain forecasted and 85° air temps immediately after.
> 
> Are fungicides no longer advisable given the rain/air temps over the next two weeks?


I'd put it down a day or two before the end of the rain personally.


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## jayhawk (Apr 18, 2017)

> A metric ton of 3336 is one of the most effective products for use regarding TARR/Bermuda Decline
> Still wish I knew about Manganese in the 1990s. Back then I applied 3336 with either Chlorothalonil or Mancozeb. Old rate was 8 oz per K on the 3336


Terrazole anyone? 
As fungicides can get expensive, consider giving a sample to your Govt Ext. Office ....for some of the more less common suspects.

In my case, they said I had root rot years ago. Not sure that I've fully addressed whatever it is.


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## Jbird95 (Jun 24, 2020)

@Greendoc 
Fungus is back on bermuda, and confirmed as TARR from local university. I'm in the process of lowering PH and applying micros. Ive tried almost every granular available. Got a gas powered sprayer so switching to liquids. Question- after a lot of research I'm not seeing a lot of fungicide applicable for TARR. Any thought on these? Interested before I take out a second mortgage to fund this purchase.

Daconil 
Armada
Prostar 
Eagle
3336
Exteris Stressgard


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