# My Fungicide plan isnt working.



## jhov415 (Dec 21, 2018)

Hope all of you had a great weekend. For the past 3 years I have had issues with brown patch May through June. This year has been no different but not as bad. This year I finally got on a more serious preventative program and thought I could win the battle. I was lucky (sort of) we didnt get as much May rain as we have in years past which may be why I haven't gotten as much brown patch. Over the past 2 weeks we got 5" or so of rain and hello brown patch. Could this also be some heat stress from mid 90's after 3+ weeks of no rain? (i do irrigate)

My plan is as follows and not sure what else to try next year.

1. First app Prop 14.1 at preventative rate (April 30)
2. Second app of Prop 14.1 at preventative rate (May 19)
3. First app of Disease Ex at preventative rate (June 3)

Images from May before the rain and mid 90 heat.









Images from this weekend after a mow. So frustrating. Is my disease Ex going to have any impact on this?





Thanks for any feedback you can provide.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I think you need to go curative if you have visible brown patch.


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## jhov415 (Dec 21, 2018)

g-man said:


> I think you need to go curative if you have visible brown patch.


I understand that's what i should do now. I'm more concerned with why did I get it if I applied preventative within the window?


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

jhov415 said:


> I understand that's what i should do now. I'm more concerned with why did I get it if I applied preventative within the window?


Maybe start with Azoxy instead of Prop?

https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/brown-patch-in-turf/

Azoxy ++++
Prop ++



> Efficacy Rating
> ++++ = excellent control when conditions are highly favorable for disease development
> +++ = good control when disease pressure is high, excellent control when disease pressure is moderate
> ++ = good control when disease pressure is moderate, excellent control when disease pressure is low


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## jhov415 (Dec 21, 2018)

ericgautier said:


> jhov415 said:
> 
> 
> > I understand that's what i should do now. I'm more concerned with why did I get it if I applied preventative within the window?
> ...


is it true i can go 3 apps with Azoxy before needing to switch it up?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I think disease pressure with all these rains is causing problems. Preventives will delay or reduce the pressure but it is not a 100% fungus free.

Also, Scott diseasex is a granular, so it is slower. You need to water it enough for the roots to absorb it. It works but not as good as a liquid foliar azoxy.

Lastly, consider overseeding with brown patch resistance cultivars.


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## Ge0rdi3brit (Aug 30, 2018)

I live in the same city and have shared the same frustrations as you regarding our battle with fungus. 
A few thoughts/questions for you:
- what is your hoc? Last year I mowed at 4-4.5" during the summer months thinking it would help with the fungus battle. Problem is that it meant my yard never really dried out, so it actually contributed to the problem. I'm cutting at 3.5" this year and so far so good. 
- Propiconazole is ineffective against brown patch. I use it for dollar spot prevention in April and that's pretty much it. 
- Scott's DiseasEx only contains 0.31% Azoxystrobin, along with 99.69% "other ingredients". In my opinion, this just isn't enough, even at the curative rate, to win this battle in our climate. 
- I've been using Strobe50wg this year and it definitely seems to be working, at least at this point. I apply it every 25 days. I do mix a second app of Propiconazole with this in June as well. 
- are you able to spray products in your yard (following recommenced practices) or are you only using granular products?
- what is your irrigation schedule? I definitely see signs of heat stress in your yard, in addition to the BP. A stressed turf is only more susceptible to disease.
- are you fertilizing at all right now?
- I'm still trying to decide on a third fungicide to use as well, so that I'm using three different modes of action. See the Fungicide Guide for a ton of valuable info.

I've attached a couple pics of my yard I took this weekend. Definitely still lots of room for improvement (bare areas from moving irrigation lines and my loss to fungus last year), but I'm winning the fungus battle so far this year. My goal is to be prepared for overseeding this fall.


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## Ge0rdi3brit (Aug 30, 2018)

@jhov415 yes, you can do three consecutive apps of Azoxystrobin, per the label. I start with Propiconazole in April as that's when conditions are more favorable for dollar spot. Once we get into warmer temps dollar spot isn't really an issue.


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## jhov415 (Dec 21, 2018)

@@Ge0rdi3brit thank you for that reply. Great stuff. My feedback below.

1. I too was trying to follow the suggestion to mow at a higher cut of 4" but noticed my grass was staying wet and also not standing tall. just over a week ago i moved down to 3.5" and it seemed to help.

2. I dont mind spending the up front money on the liquid product but want to make sure a program is going to work before spending that much money. it does sounds like Azoxy is the way to go for me and considering i can get 3 apps down before switching that may get me through the hard times.

3. yes i have a spray rig this year and love using it.



4. Rachio Gen 2 system is set currently at every 5 days and each zone gets roughly 40min. (havent tested how much water that really gets down) Interesting you see heat stress those images as that was a week after all the rain we got (5"+)



5. Fert Schedule 
Lesco 14-20-4 3/6 Granular
Clarus 16-2-3 4/20 Granular
Helena 19-1-6 4/27 Liquid (3oz per 1k)
Lesco 5-0-20 6/1 Granular

6. as for a 3rd option i was looking at the TM 4.5 but not sure if its ok for residential.


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## Avalawn T (Sep 11, 2018)

Strobe50wg is worth every penny, I have been following Pete's GCI plan started with a mix of it plus propiconazole and sync fungicide activator. Strobe plus the sync in the following apps every 25 days. So far so good.


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## BXMurphy (Aug 5, 2017)

I gotta tell ya, guys... I know you're on an X-cide trip but I'm coming around to the opinion that me and another bunch of us are guilty of loving our lawns to DEATH with... too much water.

Like over-watering a house plant.

I have a 90 year-old lawn that with help from folks at The Lawn Forum over the past couple of years has given me the skill and confidence to kill and replace. Before I do, one last experiment...

I plan to maintain my soil such that the top ~1 inch is dry. Arid dry. Like a desert dry. Where nothing lives dry.

Why?

Grass roots go down 4-5-6 inches, right? No roots of any consequence grow in the top inch.

What IS there are the woody stems of my grass plants. In a compacted 1 inch layer of thatch and debris... Along with fungus and virus... New weed seed... Bugs... Rot and decay... A decadent dance of death and destruction.

Nestled against my grass plants?!? NO!

I am looking for a protective layer of mulch. A *soil mulch*, if you will. A dry, sterile, loose, and well-draining buffer between the parts of my plant that want to stay dry and the parts that want to be wet.

Leaves should be dry, roots should be wet.

Actually, roots should be moist, like a well wrung-out towel. Not damp and certainly not wet. Just continously moist.

I'm going to shove a spade into my soil and open up a seam. Just enough to peak inside - like cutting into a steak to check for "doneness."

I'll be looking for that dry top inch and a moist lower 6 inches and strive to adjust my watering (rain and oscillating sprinklers) to achieve what I think are ideal soil moisture conditions.

I think soil like that will solve 90% of lawn woes. Give or take.

Murph


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## BXMurphy (Aug 5, 2017)

jhov415 said:


>


Here's the problem... grass, growing in a 1 inch layer of thatch... on top of a sprinkler head... adding yet more water.

Murph


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

@BXMurphy how do you propose we stop the rain from watering the lawn too? Or dew?

Golf greens are sand based with drainage to remove moisture from the root zone. But they still apply fungicides because they also get fungus.


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## Ge0rdi3brit (Aug 30, 2018)

@jhov415 1. Glad to hear the 3.5" hoc is working for you. We'll see how our lawns are doing in August hahaha!
2. I totally hear you on wanting to make sure your money is going into products that really are effective. The strobe 50wg is definitely a product that's worth it. 
3. That is a nice looking spray rig! Would you mind sharing some details on it? I'm in the process of putting a parts list together to build one using a Northstar 26 gallon tank and 5.5gpm pump, and building my own boom. 
4. I have a Rachio gen 2 as well. My system runs three times a week and puts out just under a half inch of water each time. That means I'm closer to 1.5" of irrigation a week in these hotter months. I have manually skipped it in the past thinking it was too much, and then the next day my lawn would be crispy to walk on and would be turning dark brown/blackish. This may be what I see in some of your later pictures. So yeah, I know it's strange for that to happen a week after getting 5" of rain, but I've learned to monitor the calculations/graphs that the Rachio produces, and to trust them. 
Looking at your sprinkler pics it looks like you don't quite get head to head coverage (based on the water on the driveway). I'd definitely recommend doing a catch cup test and placing some cups close to your sprinkler heads. 
5. I'm planning to put an app of Lesco 5-0-20 each month in the summer (May - Aug). This would give me a quarter lb of N each month and a full pound of potassium. 
Something I've learned this year is that I really need to be giving my lawn some fert, including Nitrogen, every month throughout the growing season (March - Nov or so). I haven't done this in the past and my lawn has always looked a bit weak/frail. I've started it now and I'm already seeing improvement. Yes, we need to be careful to not push too much N in these hot summer months, but I feel the grass needs a little as I'm putting down fungicides, insecticides, post emergents, etc. The N just helps the lawn fight and seems to help keep things well balanced (healthy). 
6. I will look into that fungicide- thanks!


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## BXMurphy (Aug 5, 2017)

g-man said:


> @BXMurphy how do you propose we stop the rain from watering the lawn too? Or dew?
> 
> Golf greens are sand based with drainage to remove moisture from the root zone. But they still apply fungicides because they also get fungus.


Can't do anything about the rain and dew. That's put there by the Almighty. He probably doesn't need our help by piling on.

Are the golf courses over-irrigated, too? Whatever they're doing, I ain't doing. That's for sure.

B


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## jhov415 (Dec 21, 2018)

Putting out a curative rate of Azoxy tomorrow and was curious what else I should consider putting down with it? 
1. Humic acid?
2. Less than 1/4# liquid fert? Will this help push growth out of the damage?

I've got active brown patch.


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## jhov415 (Dec 21, 2018)

Skipped the application tonight because of expected storms.

Any feedback on what to apply with the fungicide?


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## ABC123 (Jul 14, 2017)

I would apply some epsom if you haven't already. It's kinda all about promoting the color spectrum inside the turf blades.


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## MrJangles82 (Jun 3, 2021)

I know I'm late to this party and attempting to resurrect a two-year old thread but wanted to try this versus starting a new thread.

I am also in the Charlotte area with Tall Fescue and while I have vastly improved my lawn since last year, I too am having brown patch issues (and maybe dollar spot?). My own fault though as I think a result of improper watering.

For those in Charlotte-area with Tall Fescue, have you determined a successful fungicide approach? I already have fungus issues, so I will certainly have to go the curative route right now. So, I am hoping for some guidance on what optimal applications/products would be ideal for now and in the near-term.

And I've tried finding a fungicide plan in the forum for fescue in our region but couldn't find one. Apologies if I overlooked.
Would anyone be able to point me in the right direction or share their annual fungicide application/treatment plan?
- ideal preventative application times (i.e. start when air or soil temps hit 65 degrees 3 nights in a row? Is this correct?)
- successful products and app rate (while I'd like to be as cost effective as possible, I'd rather spend the extra $$ for quality products that will work than throw money down the drain on products that will kinda work or not work at all).
- for example, apply a 3 fungicide with an 11 fungicide every 28 days at max app rate for 3 months a year?

In reviewing the Fungicide Guide and cross-referencing with DoMYOwn (I also have several SiteOne locations within 10 miles of my home), I was looking at:

Prime Source PPZ 41.8 Select https://www.domyown.com/prime-source-ppz-418-fungicide-p-12192.html
Propiconazole 14.3 https://www.domyown.com/propiconazole-143-gallon-p-16568.html

What are thoughts on products that contain both 3 and 11? I came across Strobe Pro G Granular that has both 3 and 11.
https://www.domyown.com/strobe-pro-p-19239.html
I imagine using 1 product that focuses on Azoxystrobin and then another product that focuses on Propiconazole and combining them would be more effective than buying a product that is a pre-made combo (i guess similar to how "weed and feeds" are frowned upon).

Thanks in advance and apologies if not supposed to resurrect threads this old. Cheers!


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## Overtaxed (May 9, 2021)

> For those in Charlotte-area with Tall Fescue, have you determined a successful fungicide approach? I already have fungus issues, so I will certainly have to go the curative route right now. So, I am hoping for some guidance on what optimal applications/products would be ideal for now and in the near-term.


I'm in your area, and while I can't claim "successful", I can tell you what I'm doing.

TM 4.5 - Group 1
https://www.domyown.com/tm-45-fungicide-p-16591.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwh_eFBhDZARIsALHjIKeFQRa6poZnu9Q7wToumMvj2I_il59vd3r01pH9on9uuXxILDiiIaIaAp5gEALw_wcB

Azoxy - Group 11
https://www.keystonepestsolutions.com/abound-fungicide-1-gallon-320

Prop - Group 3
https://www.domyown.com/propiconazole-143-p-16567.html?sub_id=16568

And then, as a contact as needed (if I see a fungus, I add this in); 
https://www.domyown.com/prime-source-chlorothalonil-825df-select-p-12186.html

I'm planning to rotate through them every 2 weeks. If I have an outbreak, I'll mix them and apply multiple at once.

Seems to be working, the fungus is getting better and the weather has been good fungus growing conditions. Moving in the right direction.



> I imagine using 1 product that focuses on Azoxystrobin and then another product that focuses on Propiconazole and combining them would be more effective than buying a product that is a pre-made combo


Not necessarily any more "effective", but a WHOLE LOT cheaper. A full rate granular on my lawn would be 50+ dollars each app. The liquid it's laughably cheap.


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## MrJangles82 (Jun 3, 2021)

Overtaxed said:


> > For those in Charlotte-area with Tall Fescue, have you determined a successful fungicide approach? I already have fungus issues, so I will certainly have to go the curative route right now. So, I am hoping for some guidance on what optimal applications/products would be ideal for now and in the near-term.
> 
> 
> I'm in your area, and while I can't claim "successful", I can tell you what I'm doing.
> ...


Thanks so much for the quick and informative reply @Overtaxed !

Couple of follow-up questions for you, if you don't mind:
- When do you typically start your preventative fungicide treatment? April? Certain air/soil temp?
- And you do applications every two weeks for how long? Till end of summer?
- And since you are doing applications every 2 weeks, you are doing max rate for 14 day applications per respective product labels, correct? Or since you are rotating between 3 different products and it's effectively 6 weeks between applying the same fungicide, are you applying the max rate suggested for 28 day interval applications per product labels?

Thanks in advance!


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## Overtaxed (May 9, 2021)

> Couple of follow-up questions for you, if you don't mind:
> - When do you typically start your preventative fungicide treatment? April? Certain air/soil temp?
> - And you do applications every two weeks for how long? Till end of summer?
> - And since you are doing applications every 2 weeks, you are doing max rate for 14 day applications per respective product labels, correct? Or since you are rotating between 3 different products and it's effectively 6 weeks between applying the same fungicide, are you applying the max rate suggested for 28 day interval applications per product labels?


Not at all trying to dodge your question, but I need a BIG caveat here; I just started this journey ~9 months ago and have put down a whopping 3-4 fungicide treatments for a lawn in my entire life. I'm really not the right person to ask for experience on this one, I put together that program by reading others experiences and some label reading of the chemicals in question. I've done hundreds of applications of fungicide on veggies and fruit, so I do know something about setting up a program, but lawns are very different and my experience is REALLY thin when it comes to lawns.

That said, my plan right now started about 3 weeks ago, when I noticed some fungal spots on the grass. I probably should have started a little earlier than that because my grass got a little beat up before I got on it. I'm thinking mid-April next year will be my start time.

I'm planning to keep it up until it starts to cool down; and, if I get it totally under control, start to ease it back (instead of every 2 weeks, go to every 3) and see if i can cut back on the chemicals. That said, this really isn't that pricey if you buy those chemicals in bulk, it's around 600 bucks for all 3 startup costs, but that's years worth of product.

Right now I'm apply max rate per product, but that's because I have a touch of something out there and I'm trying to beat it back. If I win that battle, I'll start to pull back. Max rate for 28 days is generally what I'm targeting.

I'm hoping someone will come along with more experience and critique my program and help us both, but I'm so close to you I wanted to chime in with my "plan". I think it's a good plan, but I really don't know yet; again, this is where some more experienced members can help both of us!

I will say, from what I've read, if you went max (28 day) rate on each chemical on a 14 day cycle, I'd be surprised if you still had a fungus problem. 3 different MOA's, plus a contact as needed, in my farm/fruit/veggie experience, that's enough to stop basically anything that can be stopped.


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## MrJangles82 (Jun 3, 2021)

Fair enough, @Overtaxed ! I can appreciate that and thank you for the transparency!

Seems like you have a logical and sound plan in place and like you said, hopefully someone experienced (and bonus if in our area!) can provide some feedback and further insight.

Thanks again and hopefully we can both get our lawns on the right track this year! Cheers!


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## TheThirstyTurtle (May 3, 2019)

Ge0rdi3brit said:


> Something I've learned this year is that I really need to be giving my lawn some fert, including Nitrogen, every month throughout the growing season (March - Nov or so). I haven't done this in the past and my lawn has always looked a bit weak/frail. I've started it now and I'm already seeing improvement. Yes, we need to be careful to not push too much N in these hot summer months, but I feel the grass needs a little as I'm putting down fungicides, insecticides, post emergents, etc. The N just helps the lawn fight and seems to help keep things well balanced (healthy).


I think this comment bears repeating. After several years of caring for my lawn, I don't think I fully realized until just this year how important it is to provide some level of nutrients to the lawn every month to keep it looking its absolute best. You can certainly get away with larger feedings every two or three months, but I realize now that even with that the grass will start to look a little bit faded after maybe 5-6 weeks especially during the summer, even when using slower release fertilizer. My lawn would pop for several weeks after an application of Milo, but it would inevitably come down and start to look a bit stressed before the next application. This is when I was following the "holiday schedule" (Milo apps on Memorial Day, July 4th, and Labor Day).

No need to go all crazy, but some type of "spoon feeding" schedule every month seems to work best for most cool season lawns, even if it's just minimal amounts of N.


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## behemyth (Jun 8, 2019)

@TheThirstyTurtle I started spoon feeding my lawn .22N every two weeks, and its made a huge difference. I usually do this over the summer, and once it starts cooling down I hit it with bigger doses of N and other stuff through the fall and spring. I put down 1lb/N in May. The thing I hate about putting down big doses of N less frequently are the huge growth spurts you get. I also enjoy spraying N because I can mix in other chemicals, like Sea Kelp or chelated Iron. You can really tailor what your putting down to how your lawn is looking.

I'm also starting to battle the fungus and disease issues now. Back before i really took care of my lawn it was just yellow and light green all the time, but now that its pretty dark year around and looks good, I can easily pick out when I have a problem spot. I'm planning on starting a treatment program next year, I'll spray May - August, and by then it *should* be raining less and be less humid, so I can stop. I'm a big less is more type person when it comes to lawn chemicals.


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## zackroof (Oct 27, 2019)

How much use can one get out of a 1lb jug of the Strobe (preventative)?


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## Overtaxed (May 9, 2021)

zackroof said:


> How much use can one get out of a 1lb jug of the Strobe (preventative)?


Strobe is .5lbs of Azoxy (50% active ingredient per pound) for 240 dollars
Abound is 2.8lbs of Azoxy (22.9% active ingredient per gallon) for 200 dollars.

With either one of them, you're going to cover lots of sq/ft (acres) depending on your mix ratio, but Abound is still ~1/5th the cost per lb of AI applied.


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