# Something crazy with my lawn



## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

Have a 50/50 blue rye mix that I did about 2 years ago.

The start of the year it was awesome, green and growing.



I have did dimension with fertilizer in the spring, added a starter fertilizer to get it going 2 weeks after.

I did a lime treatment and milo since. I can get dates if needed.

Long story short, everything was growing fine at the start but recently about every other blade of grass is brown. It s grows like mad and the green growth is evident after a few days, but after a cut it looks terrible. It is making me crazy and I just hope we can figure out the issue and correct it


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

https://imgur.com/pB9EUeo
https://imgur.com/a/46QlL


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## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

I'm having a hard time zooming in on the pictures to see the browning, maybe you can take a close up picture of the grass blades with the most browning?

from the pictures I can see: It does look dull, and my first suggestion would be to sharpen the mower blades. If you're not getting a clean cut of the grass blades, the tips will be frayed and turn brown giving it an ugly appearance. The poorly cut grass blades also stress the plant and invite insects and disease.


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## j4c11 (Apr 30, 2017)

+1, need closeups. Looks like some fungal issues going on.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

OK, here we go. Image 3 is simply a look across the top, highlighting the new green growth since the last cut.

https://imgur.com/a/ML6Du


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## mtlcafan79 (Apr 27, 2017)




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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

my father in law has been sharpening my blades, are you saying he does a crappy job? I literally just put on freshly sharpened blades 2 weeks ago


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

Take them off and look for yourself. Make sure the angle is correct and the edge of the blade has a sharp corner. You'd be surprised how many people round off that corner from improper sharpening. That edge is the leading edge so if it's not square and sharp then it won't be cutting it'll be tearing.

There are lots of blades that look torn, and some of them even have stripes across them like they got hit by the blade but not cut. That will allow disease into the grass much more.

On top of that many blades do looked diseased so I'd get some fungicide down..


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## j4c11 (Apr 30, 2017)

Also, make sure the blade isn't installed upside down. The grass is torn really bad.


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

Notice the bottom corner how its round, no good:








vs


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

GrassDaddy said:


> On top of that many blades do looked diseased so I'd get some fungicide down..


Like a Propocanziole 14.3? If so, any suggested rates? With or without surfactant?


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

GrassDaddy said:


> Notice the bottom corner how its round, no good:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I will have to grab my blade and post a picture. I think I have some newly sharpened ones for the tractor as well as the one currently on the mower that I put on recently. He is old school and I never gave it a ton of thought, so maybe he is doing it wrong or just not well anymore...


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

Honestly I'm not up on the fungicides. I went to the local turf farm supply shop and asked and came home with what they suggested lol. The brand name was Eagle (i got generic). They said its a very good systemic fungicide that the turf farm guys are using. He did warn to alternate withsomethibg else to prevent resistence.

I do plan on learning more on that. Right now I'm studying weeds and weed killers.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

Here is a whole series of what I'm looking at. The double blades are freshly sharpened waiting to be installed on the tractor. The gator blade (fins) is what I recently removed and the other is the blade currently installed. Hope we can see all necessary detail to know if I'm good, bad, close. Thanks

https://imgur.com/a/Hhj3M


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## LIgrass (May 26, 2017)

kolbasz said:


> Here is a whole series of what I'm looking at. The double blades are freshly sharpened waiting to be installed on the tractor. The gator blade (fins) is what I recently removed and the other is the blade currently installed. Hope we can see all necessary detail to know if I'm good, bad, close. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/Hhj3M


Those look fine to me. What I've found is even a new sharpened blade can shred some grass when everything's flushing and lush. What you have looks fungal to me. Obvious lesions in those pics. Possibly leaf spot and/or dollar spot...tough to say from those pics.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

I will definitely replace the tractor blades next cut, then get the rest re sharpened by him.

The ones where there are 2 I can tell are sharp, way sharper than the rest. Start there I guess.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

GrassDaddy said:


> Honestly I'm not up on the fungicides. I went to the local turf farm supply shop and asked and came home with what they suggested lol. The brand name was Eagle (i got generic). They said its a very good systemic fungicide that the turf farm guys are using. He did warn to alternate withsomethibg else to prevent resistence.
> 
> I do plan on learning more on that. Right now I'm studying weeds and weed killers.


Is eagle the generic like this? 
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/eagle-20ew-specialty-fungicide-p-1359.html

Or is there a generic of eagle. I did not see it so could be in the wrong place.

Thanks dude! Im only here because of your YouTube channel


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

Yeah thats the stuff although its cheaper there than the generic i bought offline haha but I like supporting the family that runs the seed shop 

And glad I could help!


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

haha, found it. http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/myclobutanil-20ew-to-fungicide-p-16654.html

Guess this is the generic equivalent. My issue is that it is literally the entire front (6k sqft) and back (7k sqft) minus some areas that are ok, so I need a lot based on the mix rates. Or, I just hit it all again with a heavy propocanziole 14.3 and surfactant, then get this in the off season for next year. At least try that path first.


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

You want 1.2oz per k, so that's ~16oz per app. Which 4 apps in a year would be half a gallon. Now you might not apply it 4x, that's just what the guy at the seed shop told me 2-4 apps depending on the conditions. (remember, you should rotate it with another fungicide wether it's chem or bio)


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

I assume your numbers are for the Eagle.

Now, I know you did some bio fungicide and said no Surfactant, so when do I want vs not. I assume in my case I do.


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

For the chemical fungucide you do.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

OK, so no sense wasting product. I measured off 1k of grass, loaded my backpack sprayer with 1.x oz product, some Surfactant and sprayed the area.

Figure this is a decent test despite the heat this week.

Give it what, a week, 2 and then see the results. If positive, do the rest, if nothing, cry.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

After seeing the success @BrettWayne had with the Bauer Fungicide granular, I picked up a bag of .39% Eagle Fungicide. Its said to be curative to 10k sqft, so I took it as far as it would go. I have about 13k, so the back of the yard did not get any. Worst case, if necessary, I will grab a bag of the bauer to finish the parts that didnt get it.


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## DJT (Jul 1, 2017)

check this link out....Ascochyta Leaf Blight of Lawns

https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2010/6-23/ascochyta.html


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

DJT said:


> check this link out....Ascochyta Leaf Blight of Lawns
> 
> https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/2010/6-23/ascochyta.html


That's wild. I never got that bad, so can't say for sure, but something was/is definitely happening. Hoping to cut this week, then we will see the results


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