# Am I on the right track this spring? Soil Test Results and Photos



## MarkAguglia (Jul 13, 2017)

Last spring I applied Scotts with Halts around mid-May, I was new and had no idea what I was doing and got more informed as the year went on. I started using Milo and overseeded with TTTF in the fall. This spring, I want to make sure I have both the right idea and a plan!

So, firstly, I got a soil test:


This is the lawn present day (4/20/18)

Back yard is in much better shape.


My plan is to use a better pre-emergent this spring and time it correctly, but I'm worried if the lawn suffered too much damage over winter. We had a long winter with more than usual snow. I already raked the dead and matted grass once ,but will have to do so again this weekend as we got more snow after the first attempt. Is my lawn in decent enough shape to let it recover naturally and use a pre-emergent? I found Lesco Stonewall Prodiamine .43% (13-0-0) would this be a wise choice? How can I bring up the P and K? Starter fertilizer? I feel that may be adding far too much nitrogen this early. I'd rather follow the Milorganite holiday schedule if possible and go heavy on the nitrogen in the fall. I'd definitely rather overseed again in the fall rather than have to do it this spring. Also, my PH is low. Do you guys have any suggestion for lime and how much to apply? I greatly appreciate the board's help always!

Thanks guys. :thumbup: 
M


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## MarkAguglia (Jul 13, 2017)

Anyone? Bueller?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

There are too many questions on this post that I'm not sure what to answer. They provided you a recommendation of a balance fertilizer (16-16-16) to address their findings (low p and low k).

The milo schedule doesn't make sense to me. Apply Milo in Thanksgiving in upper NY is not going to help since it is too cold.

I see that soil savvy removed their statement around pH being inaccurate. A pH of 5.9 is fine abd would do nothing.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I posted this earlier today in a different thread, but I think it is important to share here too.



> Lastly, I don't agree with Soil Savvy being real good or reasonable. 1) it is expensive at $30. 2) they are not part of the NAPT 3) they don't explain their test methods or rational for their targets. 4) their own report states that the pH value is not accurate. 5) recommendations are for a few months.
> 
> There are plenty of good soil labs. RidgeRunner listed links to them in this post: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=1088&start=40 . For example, for $16.50, you could get a good soil test from Waypoint Analytical Memphis,TN. A local lab to you, will be more familiar with your soil and could use test methods that are more appropriate to your soil.


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## MarkAguglia (Jul 13, 2017)

I know nobody likes the soil savvy, I got it as a gift or I would of preferred to use a better outlet.


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## MarkAguglia (Jul 13, 2017)

I was hoping to get a little direction as to whether I should use a preM based on my current lawn situation.


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

I'm thinking looking at your lawn in it's current state, I would probably get some tenacity and do a spring seeding in the bare areas. Since you don't have bluegrass it's not going to spread and fill the bare areas in. Spring seeding success can vary but done at the proper time can work. You can get the lawn on a pre-e schedule in the fall. For now I would go the seeding route and worry about weed pressure after. This is just my opinion though.


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

One question I was just thinking. Do you think it's a good idea to use TTTF seeds where you live? Buffalo has a cold and snowy climate and although I don't have any experience with TTTF I thought it struggled in colder climates.


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## MarkAguglia (Jul 13, 2017)

I did look it up before doing so and all of the northeast was listed as OK for turf type tall fescue. I was definitely considering using Tenacity too as I have a bentgrass problem and have never had much crabgrass or grassy weeds.


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## Jconnelly6b (Mar 4, 2018)

Based on soil test and looks of the yard, along with your location and desire for a pre-m I would strongly recommend Scott's starter fertilizer with weed preventer. It has tenacity in it, and will help with your low K. You can overseed at the same time you put down this fert. 3-4 weeks after your seed germinates in the bare areas, put down dimension (I have used the Lesco from Site One. Make sure to not use the one with nitrogen, only the one with K.

You are also in northern NY, so your grass really hasn't woke up yet. I'm south of NYC near the coast in Jersey and not one of my neighbors yards has came alive yet. From the looks of the picture here and pictures on other posts, your grass may fill in when it flushes out once it warms in your area.

Good luck. You're on the right track.


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

Nothing wrong with soil savvy. And I agree with the over seeding and using Scott's starter with weed preventer. It'll help with the P and K and let you get some seed in. Then be sure to get regular pre-emergent down when the new grass is established.


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## MarkAguglia (Jul 13, 2017)

GrassDaddy said:


> Nothing wrong with soil savvy. And I agree with the over seeding and using Scott's starter with weed preventer. It'll help with the P and K and let you get some seed in. Then be sure to get regular pre-emergent down when the new grass is established.


Awesome I'm on board with this and as mentioned I'll use the Site One 007 Dimension afterwards. Thanks for your replies! I plan to get a starter fert and spray Tenacity. My last question is if I'm trying to kill Bentgrass at the same time, should I do multiple apps of Tenacity? at what rate/1000ft2? How many apps?


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

Yes you want to to use the lower rate every 7-10 days. I don't have the label in front of me so I don't off hand remember the rate but it was the lowest one.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Use 2oz rate and use nis. Don't skip the nis.


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

Ok good I thought it was 2oz but I sometimes jumble numbers so I don't give out a number without checking the label. I wish I had a better memory!


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

To be clear, the label calls for 5oz ai/acre rate, but a few studies found better control at lower rates when using NIS and some urea.



> Based on the results of this study, Tenacity should be applied at 1.0 oz. per acre in each of three sequential applications on two-week intervals using a non-ionic surfactant plus UAN with power raking. Power raking will remove debris before each Tenacity application and allow for the greatest control of creeping bentgrass.


 -http://www.golfdom.com/improve-the-efficacy-of-tenacity-for-creeping-bentgrass-control/

While other suggest 4oz rate, they all suggest the repeat applications as key. https://turf.unl.edu/turfinfo/Sept10%20Fall%20Tenacity%20Apps.pdf

Since I think you have some fine texture fescues (based on your images), a low rate (2oz ai/acre) will be safer.


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## chrisben (Sep 11, 2017)

Note that the Scotts starter fert with weed preventer also contains the ai from tenacity.
I can tell you firsthand that two doses of starter fert last fall was nearly a selective herbicide for the fine fescue in my turf.

If you want to spray tenacity, get a different starter fert.


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