# GrassTastesBad's 2018 TTTF Renovation



## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

Hi TheLawnForum,

I'm currently renovating a 900sqft lawn that was a mixture of Tall Fescue (only had about 20% left), Bermuda, clover, crabgrass, nutsedge, and some basic broadleaf weeds.

This will be my first renovation and my biggest concern right now is the Bermuda. It took over about a 30% chunk in the sunniest part of the lawn, and seems to be impossible to kill completely. I've already sprayed 4 applications of glyphosate on this Rasputin of a weed and I can still see green left in some stolons!

Log:
*6/13-12/31*
-I'll be applying BLSC mixed with humic and sea kelp every two weeks.

*6/13/18*
-Soil test
-Doesn't show on this page, but my Ca is 80% and Mg is 14%
-Phosphorus is 124ppm and Potassium is 76ppm


*6/15/18*
-1st round of glyphosate (only sprayed the Bermuda section)
-Used a rate of 2.5oz glyphosate + 1.28oz NIS per 300sqft


*6/28/18*
-2nd round of glyphosate (only sprayed the Bermuda section)
-Spot sprayed a few sprigs of Bermuda still green

*7/9/18*
-3rd round of glyphosate (whole lawn)


*7/17/18*
-Lowered HOC to 2.5in and bagged

*7/26/18*
-4th round of glyphosate (whole lawn)

*7/28/18*
-Urea @ 1lb per 1000sqft 
-Trying to get any Bermuda still alive to come back up for the last two rounds of glyphosate

*8/4/18*
-IT JUST WON'T DIE!




Future Applications:
*8/8-8/31*
-5th and 6th round of glyphosate
-2 more applications of urea (1lb each time)
-Water daily from 8/18-8/28 (Haven't watered at all since we've been getting a ton of rain these past weeks)

*9/15/18*
*Seed Down Day!*
-Scalp, bag, and rake up most of the dead grass
-Fill a couple low spots with topsoil mixed with some native soil.
-Core aerate (going to use a hand aerator)
-Seed @ 10lb per 1000sqft 
-Lightly rake it in with a leaf rake
-Milorganite @ 7lb per 1000sqft 
-Starter fertilizer @ 3lb per 1000sqft 
-Add peat moss (2x 3.8cuft bag)
-Add Seed Aide CoverGrow (1x 40lb bag)
-Apply Tenacity @ 1 tsp per 900sqft [8oz per acre] 
-Water 3x a day ~10mins each time (6am, 12pm, 3:30pm)

*After Germination*
-Cut back to watering 2x a day ~15min each time (8am, 2pm) for another 3 weeks
-Switch to 0.5in 2x every week after 3 weeks
-Mow to 2in when seedling gets to 3in. Slowly Raise HOC to 3in

*10/22/18*
-Tenacity @ 0.5 tsp [4oz/acre] per 900sqft
-Milorganite @ @ 15lb per 1000sqft

*11/30 (After grass stops growing)*
-Urea 46-0-0 @ 1lb per 1000sqft 
-Not sure if lawns in Raleigh 7b ever stop growing in the winter for this to count as a winterizer app

Thanks for reading! Any advice will be greatly appreciated.


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

Couple Questions I have:

1. After 4 applications of glyphosate, I'm still seeing some green in the Bermuda stolon/runners. Plus, between my 3rd and 4th rounds of glyphosate, about 12 green leafy sprigs popped back up. Is this thing impossible to kill or what? Can Bermuda even absorb glyphosate through its stolons? Really starting to get worried.

2. My soil test shows I have a bit of a potassium deficiency. I'm only applying 0.4lb of K this fall from the starter fertilizer, will this be enough until I switch to a 10-2-8 analysis next spring?

3. I originally based my seeding plan on LawnCareNut's "Planting and Growing Grass Seed - Step by Step" video, where he recommends using both peat moss and grass seed mulch (he used Scott's Patchmaster, I've Seed Aide CoverGrow). Will two layers of covering be too thick/too much of an overkill?

4. I recently test the water output on my Gardena oscillating sprinkler. It took about 1hr 45mins to get an average of 0.5in, which seemed excessively long. Is this normal?

5. With all of the rain we've been getting, all the exposed dirt in the lawn is now covered in moss. I've researched this a bit, and it seems it won't pose a problem during seeding. Is this correct or should I be treating the lawn right now before seeding?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

1) @social port what is the mix you are using to kill Bermuda. I know that round up alone is not enough sometimes.

2) you should source SOP (0-0-50) for your pottasium and you could use it now. I would avoid more phosphorous (no starter or Milorganite).

3)I don't know. I only use peat moss.

4) a bit above normal. Did you measured it at multiple spots? There are too many variables to precipitation rate (water pressure, hose length, setup of the sprinkler).

5) I like to kill it at seed down.

Overall, good plan.


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

1. I'm currently only using glyphosate + surfactant. I really wanted to avoid spending $100 for Bermuda selective herbicides since it's a relatively small section. But if there are still any Bermuda still alive before my final nuke, I think I'll give in and mix in some Triclopyr and Fenoxaprop/Fluazifop.

2. Sounds good. I'll skip the milorganite and use up my bag of Nature Safe 10-2-8 for my potassium. I was worried that the new seedlings needed the extra phosphorus for root development.

4. I put out 6 coffee mugs and 6 straight-edge containers for the measurement. I actually had to do it twice because the first time I tested for only 15mins and got barely got 1/16in. I'll test again to triple check.

5. Ok. I'll put down some Moss Out on Seeding day.

Thanks for the reply. Btw amen to that signature.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I think they used round up with triclopyr and some tenacity, which is fairly inexpensive. I think greendoc recommended it so the herbicide gets to the roots. Round up alone is too fast killing the top grow but it doesnt get to the roots. A slow painful death works better, hence the use of triclopyr.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

@GrassTastesBad I've been killing Bermuda for over a year now. I had some extremely helpful discussion with several forum members that led to what I hope is a death concoction. 
I use
Fluazifop 
Glyphosate (NOT cut with Diquat!)
Triclopyr 
Ammonium sulfate
NIS

This was a brew that was assembled with the help of Greendoc, Delmarva Keith, and MovingShrub. 
So far, it has been a charm this year. I'll give some links for mix rates and mix order a little later just in case you are interested.

@g-man


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Here is the point in my thread where I start discussing it
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1935&start=240

Movingshrub used a similar solution in this thread https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=421&start=220

And if you want to delve into things, this thread is very good https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3735


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

social port said:


> Here is the point in my thread where I start discussing it
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1935&start=240
> 
> Movingshrub used a similar solution in this thread https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=421&start=220
> ...


@social port Thanks for the links. I just read your journal from the beginning; everything was so calm and peaceful before the Bermuda Apocalypse. And wow, it's insane that even with the soul stealer, your Bermuda still refuses to die completely.

I think I have to forgo the fluazifop this year. By the time it gets shipped to me, it'll be too late apply due to the 30 day seeding interval.

Here are a couple more questions I have:

1. Do you know if the Bermuda stolons are able to absorb glyphosate? Right now all the leaf tissues are dead and toasted, the only thing still green are a few stolons.

2. Does urea have the same "fixating effect on mineral" as ammonium sulfate? I already have 50lb of urea that I can mix into my glyphosate + NIS.

3. Is there a difference in effectiveness between Triclopyr Triethylamine Salt (Weed B Gon CCO) and Triclopyr Butoxyethyl Ester (Triclopyr Ester/Turflon Ester)?


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

hmm...I did not receive a notification of your mention above...

Thanks for reading my thread. You are right: I had to refocus and shift gears once that bermuda rose up.

Unfortunately, I would be speculating in answering your questions which, in this case, would amount to an educated guess. I'm sure that someone can definitively answer your questions; but not me.

I have definitely seen 'dead' stolons in my kill area, but I know that I've hit them directly with my herbicide.

The stolons in your pictures look a lot like a few of mine last year after they had been hit with multiple rounds of glyphosate and ornamec.

If I were in your position, I would do this: Get the Ammonium Sulfate, and make sure your glyphosate is not mixed with Diquat. Use the AS, glyphosate, and a non-ionic surfactant to finish the job. Those puppies look nearly gone, and there is still plenty of time for the bermuda to grow this season. Time to end it for them. Do have a contingency plan for next year: Are you willing to use a non-selective mix again, or do you want to try something like Pylex?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

@social port we have noticed that the mention notification only works on the first post and not on an edit. The same with quotes. FYI


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

social port said:


> hmm...I did not receive a notification of your mention above...
> 
> Thanks for reading my thread. You are right: I had to refocus and shift gears once that bermuda rose up.
> 
> ...


@social port Ok, I'll get some AS and mix it in for my last 2 kill rounds.

The glyphosate I'm using is the Compare N Save 41%. I double-checked and it's just straight glyphosate.

If Bermuda do pop up again next spring, my plan is to use Roundup gel stick and paint each sprig as I see them. If it somehow manages to spread and form a large patch, I'll use either Acclaim Extra+Triclopyr or Fusilade II+Triclopyr.

Oh and yeah, I didn't figure out how to mention when I first posted.


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

Went out today and scalped the dead lawn at 1.6in to expose any Bermuda stolons.
Applied urea @ 1lb per 1000sqft and then sprayed shampoo, humic, and kelp.

Also found 5 new sprigs of Bermuda rearing its ugly head. Will hit it at the next round of glyphosate later this week (hopefully mix in some of the Ammonium Sulfate I just ordered).


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Unreal! 
I would say that is the craziest thing I've ever seen, but I know it all too well.
It has been said that the dark side leads to powers that are considered...unnatural.

Pay attention to the mixing order for the water, AS, glyph, and NIS in Movingshrub's thread (page 12) :thumbup:


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## bellts02 (Apr 16, 2018)

I have no clue if this works on bermuda, but maybe try solarizing it. Lay clear or black plastic over the top (after watering) and let it cook for 30 days. It worked on a section of my lawn but i was killing tttf.


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## alpine0000 (Jul 25, 2017)

Keep up with the glyphosate. Mine took 4 applications to kill, but that was also after I had already hit it with a mix of Acclaim, Pylex, and Triclopyr a couple weeks earlier. It is some tough stuff. It WILL eventually die with glyphosate, but there's no guarantee that it didnt drop seeds in the ground that could germinate later.

Also, IDK if there is a difference between the glyphosate A.I. in the brand you're using vs the RoundUp brand that I used, but I think it should kill it all the same. You can see my glyphosate adventure here: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=1039&sid=361e97dff541e69bb01fd4a84b2dda8c

Glyphosate and solarizing works well if you're trying to kill everything in that area, so you're on the right track... But once you get your new lawn coming in, if you see some Bermuda popping up in the future, you will want another solution. IMO, Pylex is really the only herbicide I've seen that actually WORKS and kills it off (as opposed to just suppressing it like Acclaim and all the others). And I've tried a lot of different herbicides that say they kill Bermuda grass. Triclopyr alone doesn't kill it either. Although I haven't tried mixing Triclopyr and Tenacity, but I own and have used both of those herbicides.

IMO, if Bermuda comes back next year in your new lawn, you'll want to hit it with a mix of Pylex (at a rate of 1ml per 1000) and Triclopyr (4.5 teaspoons per 1000) twice, four weeks apart in the summer. I know the Pylex bottle cost right now is high (until Topramezone is eventually available in generic form) at approx $496 per bottle, but if you break down the true cost per use at the recommended rate of 1 ml per 1000, it's not outrageous when you compare to what 6+ applications of glyphosate per 1000 costs, or any fungicide / liquid fert / pre-emergent costs for that matter:

1 bottle has 8 ounces (236 ml).
Cost breaks down to about $2.10 per ml / per 1000 sq ft.
For my 7500 square foot year, using 7.5 ml, that's about $15 per application for the entire lawn. 
I do 2 apps a year, so my total cost is approx $30 per year to treat. AND IT WORKS  
A bottle lasts me about 16 years. You could try to do a split with somebody in your area (or multiple people).

Compare that $2.10 for Pylex per 1000 cost to other liquid cost breakdowns that I use, it doesn't seem completely outrageous (all bottle costs taken from DoMyOwn):
Coron 18-3-6 liquid fert: $4.24 per 1000
Headway fungicide: $5.28 per 1000
Drive XLR8 Quinclorac: $1.64 per 1000
Generic Thiophanate-methyl fungicide: $1.86 per 1000
Generic SedgeHammer (Halosulfuron-methyl): $1.75 per 1000
Dithiopyr pre-emergent: $1.19 per 1000

And some granule costs... Nobody ever complains about the price of Milorganite per 1000:
Milorganite at 1lb N per 1000: $6.50 per 1000
Lesco 18-24-12 Starter Fertilizer: $4.44 per 1000

Fertilizer and Fungicide are by far the most expensive things I put on my lawn. Pylex pales in comparison. It's just that the sticker shock of the bottle price is harder to swallow. Although, I will be happy when it is available in generic form 

But... As a bonus, it's one of the few things that has worked for me to really nip Dallisgrass and Nimblewill too. All of the tough-to-kill perennial grass weeds that other herbicides struggle with, Pylex knocks out. For me, Pylex is a no-brainer. But I know the cost is very prohibitive for most. If I could only pick 2 post-emergent herbicides to keep in my entire collection, it would be Pylex and Tenacity. IMO they are must-haves for cool-season lawns in the transition zone. And I'm a lawn equipment and liquid geek.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Good points, alpine. I've really become interested in Pylex, especially for its range.


alpine0000 said:


> If I could only pick 2 post-emergent herbicides to keep in my entire collection, it would be Pylex and Tenacity.


This is my conclusion as well. The problem is that pylex needs to be available in smaller quantities (and less expensive). I understand the appeal of making one purchase and getting 10+years of use out of it, but I would rather get a new supply every year or two. Maybe long-term commitments just make me nervous.


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

social port said:


> Good points, alpine. I've really become interested in Pylex, especially for its range.
> 
> 
> alpine0000 said:
> ...


Yeah, if Pylex came in 1oz bottles, I would be all over it. I only have 900sqft of lawn to treat in my backyard and 8oz is just too cost prohibitive/too much (8oz would last me 118 years at 2 applications/year). They really should offer Pylex in a smaller bottle for residential users. I can't imagine Tenacity would be as ubiquitous today if it were still only available in 1 gallon.


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

The ammonium sulfate I ordered got here today. According to this link http://weeds.nmsu.edu/pdfs/AMS_use.pdf , I should be using this hot sauce with all my herbicide applications for better results. Thanks again @social port for the recommendation.

Since it won't be raining tomorrow, I sprayed the 5th round of glyphosate today.
I mixed 3oz AMS + 2.5oz glyphosate + 1.28oz NIS + 0.75oz tracker dye + 1 gal water and blanket sprayed the entire lawn. Hopefully this will really knock out the remaining Bermuda.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

GrassTastesBad said:


> According to this link http://weeds.nmsu.edu/pdfs/AMS_use.pdf , I should be using this hot sauce with all my herbicide applications for better results.


That is what I have been doing


GrassTastesBad said:


> I mixed 3oz AMS + 2.5oz glyphosate + 1.28oz NIS + 0.75oz tracker dye + 1 gal water and blanket sprayed the entire lawn.


.
Sounds good. I've got one more application of soul stealer cco, and then I'll be transitioning to the mix you describe above.


GrassTastesBad said:


> Hopefully this will really knock out the remaining Bermuda.


Hoping for that :thumbup: 
I'm very interested to see how things go.


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

*8/16*
-Scalped and bagged at lowest setting
-Dethatched all the dead grass still matted down
-Filled in low spots with topsoil (mixed with some native clay soil) and tamped it to settle 
-Leveled with rake
-Urea @ 1lb per 1000sqft
-Sprayed soil conditioner 
-Watered it all down at 0.25in



The 6 bags of Timberline Topsoil I bought from Lowes was full of rocks and mulch. Won't be using that again.

I'll be fallowing for the next 10 days to germinate any potential weeds from the topsoil.


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

Finally got my seeds today.



According to the Raleigh NTEP trials, these cultivars should perform very well here in the transition zone


More Bermuda sprigs are still popping back up. With only 1 more planned glyphosate app, I doubt I can achieve total kill before seed down.
I'll definitely be seeing it again next spring. Oh well.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

@GrassTastesBad those are very good cultivars. I'm using Raptor III this year.

That looks like crabgrass to me, but I'm not positive.
If @LawnNerd is around, he could likely confirm.


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

@social port Yeah, Raptor III is one of the best TTTF Mountain View Seeds has to offer. Its quality score was so high that I was willing to ignore the 0.03% crop in the blend. I also wanted some Valkyrie LS in the blend, but the other cultivars it came with didn't score quite as well. 




social port said:


> That looks like crabgrass to me, but I'm not positive.
> If @LawnNerd is around, he could likely confirm.


I'm pretty sure it's Bermuda, It has the same purple-green stolon as this more mature sprig a couple feet over.



Oh, and look at these baby nutsedge go! They all popped up around the same time after some rain earlier this week. Hopefully my fescue seedlings will grow as fast as these suckers.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Sorry, @GrassTastesBad . I sure wanted it to be something other than Bermuda.

Your Bermuda looks quite different from mine.


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## LawnNerd (Sep 2, 2017)

@GrassTastesBad is spot on. He's been cursed by grass from that rogue island. I'm sorry. Lets just hope one more glypho app finally depletes it's reserves. Who knows, maybe you'll get lucky and the winter will kill it since it won't be able to store any Carbohydrates for the winter. If not, there's always @social port's Soul stealer CCO.

Don't sweat the sedge too much right now. Get you a bottle of dismiss over winter (or early spring) and tackle those is May.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

@GrassTastesBad I noticed earlier this week that the seeding interval for my WBG CCO is only one week. If you still have one week to spare, you might run down to your local big box, check the reseed interval and, if it checks out, add that to you AS, gly, and NIS. Just a little extra sauce for the immortal plant to swim in. (If not, there's nothing wrong with AS, gly, and NIS). For your consideration.


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

@social port Thanks, this is definitely good to know. I had originally written off Triclopyr because label I checked (Turflon Ester Ultra) had a 3 weeks reseed interval.

How much CCO are you using in your tank? The CCO label says 1oz/200sqft, so I would assume 5oz/1k?

Do you think your Soul Stealer CCO worked better this year compared to when you only used glyphosate? It seems your Bermuda is still surviving even with the Soul Stealer CCO.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

GrassTastesBad said:


> @social port Thanks, this is definitely good to know. I had originally written off Triclopyr because label I checked (Turflon Ester Ultra) had a 3 weeks reseed interval.
> 
> How much CCO are you using in your tank? The CCO label says 1oz/200sqft, so I would assume 5oz/1k?
> 
> Do you think your Soul Stealer CCO worked better this year compared to when you only used glyphosate? It seems your Bermuda is still surviving even with the Soul Stealer CCO.


I'm away from my supply right now, but 5 fl oz per k sounds about right.

As for soul stealer CCO vs glyphosate: there is no comparison . Glyphosate kills with injury. Soul stealer CCO annihilates all the way down to essence. 
SSCCO wins all day, every day.
Here's where the confusion is (I think): I've only hit certain sections of my yard with SSCCO. The Bermuda that is growing now is brand new to my eyes. It has not been treated with SSCCO. So although my lawn thread has a lot of talk about new shoots of Bermuda, these are plants new to me-not plants that have recovered from SSCCO treatment.

It has been impractical to track closely, but my impression is that, by and large, any Bermuda that I've hit with SSCCO has pretty well died with 1-2 apps. The exceptions include 3 patches that have shown signs of recovery...but...these patches that have recovered could be from glyphosate-only treatments I was using earlier this summer before I began using SSCCO.


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

social port said:


> As for soul stealer CCO vs glyphosate: there is no comparison . Glyphosate kills with injury. Soul stealer CCO annihilates all the way down to essence.
> SSCCO wins all day, every day.


That makes more sense. Had me worried that Bermuda could bounce back even from Soul Stealer CCO.



social port said:


> @GrassTastesBad I noticed earlier this week that the seeding interval for my WBG CCO is only one week. If you still have one week to spare, you might run down to your local big box, check the reseed interval and, if it checks out, add that to you AS, gly, and NIS. Just a little extra sauce for the immortal plant to swim in. (If not, there's nothing wrong with AS, gly, and NIS). For your consideration.


I'll decide whether to get CCO before my final glyphosate app. It seems Ortho Max Poison Ivy and Tough Brush Killer has the same AI (Triclopyr, triethylamine salt 8%) as CCO at a cheaper price, so I might just get that instead and use the CCO rate.

I dropped my last application of urea today, adding to a total of 2lb N this month.

Right now I can only find 4 Bermuda sprigs that managed to resurface, down from 7 sprigs at the 5th glyphosate round and 15 sprigs at the 4th round, so my game of whack-a-Bermuda seems to be at least slowing down.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Here's one way to look at it: Each time it resurfaces, you are increasing the chance for a permanent kill. Better it come back now than next year.

I have full confidence in SSCCO. A variation of it has already achieved what appears to be a full kill in Alabama this year. The individuals who helped me with the ingredients are lights years beyond me in herbicide knowledge and experience. And, the vast majority of Bermuda that I've hit this year is dead on arrival.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Also, good luck. You are fighting a good fight :thumbup:


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

LawnNerd said:


> @GrassTastesBad is spot on. He's been cursed by grass from that rogue island. I'm sorry. Lets just hope one more glypho app finally depletes it's reserves. Who knows, maybe you'll get lucky and the winter will kill it since it won't be able to store any Carbohydrates for the winter. If not, there's always @social port's Soul stealer CCO.


@LawnNerd I thought I posted a reply to you, but I think I forgot to post.

Thanks for the positive ID. I'll be adding another round of glyphosate the day before seed down (so 2 more apps), since the 7 day seeding interval listed on the label seems to be overcautious.

I have all the ingredients now except Fluazifop, so I'm fully prepared to use Soul Stealer CCO next year. I won't tolerate a square inch of Bermuda.



LawnNerd said:


> Don't sweat the sedge too much right now. Get you a bottle of dismiss over winter (or early spring) and tackle those is May.


I already have a packet of Sedgehammer, so I should be good next spring. I was just surprised at how quick and numerous they came up overnight.


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

social port said:


> Also, good luck. You are fighting a good fight :thumbup:


Thanks, I never thought it would be this hard to kill these devils.

@social port Are you adding glyphosate to your SSCCO next year? I'm thinking of using the more selective treatment of fluazifop + triclopyr and spraying two apps when it breaks out of dormancy and again when it's preparing to go dormant. It might not be a total kill, but I don't think I can bear to look at bare spots if I added glyphosate.


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## LawnNerd (Sep 2, 2017)

GrassTastesBad said:


> I already have a packet of Sedgehammer, so I should be good next spring. I was just surprised at how quick and numerous they came up overnight.


My sedges were dormant when it was dry here in July, but once that rain came, they flushed out like mad men!

I went with Dismiss because i'm impatient and want that crud gone asap. Total sedge meltdown in like 3 days.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

GrassTastesBad said:


> social port said:
> 
> 
> > Also, good luck. You are fighting a good fight :thumbup:
> ...


I understand. Crispy/dead spots look really bad. 
My strategy for next year is either SSCCO or pylex. I lean towards the former (the sooner the bermuda is gone, the better), and I will most definitely use glyphosate. Full strength, full formula, volume to the max.

I plan to light the bermuda up with tenacity after it breaks dormancy and start treatments shortly thereafter.


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

I went down to Home Depot today and picked up a bottle of triclopyr.


For the 6th nuke round:

I mixed a heavy rate of 3oz AMS + 1.5oz triclopyr + 3oz glyphosate + 1.28oz surfactant + 1 gal water and spot sprayed the Bermuda sprigs (I spotted 9) and nutsedge.

Then I blanket sprayed the whole lawn with 3oz AMS + 2.5oz glyphosate + 1.28oz surfactant + 1 gal water.


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

Aerated today with a hand aerator and sprayed 5x rate of soil conditioner, humic acid, and kelp.




Hurricane Florence is heading straight for us this week, so I'll be delaying seed down till it passes. After reading tons of horror stories about washouts and flooding from the folks up north, I'm paranoid about seeding into any heavy rain forecast. Hopefully Florence will get all the major rain out way for the rest of this month.



Also saw one tiny lonesome Bermuda still kicking it. I'll be spraying one last app of glyphosate the day before or the day of seed down.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Good call on waiting for the storm. I would spray round up now that you have sun. It doesnt work as good without it.


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

g-man said:


> Good call on waiting for the storm.


I think it's time to for us take all that rain off your hands now. It sucks about all your washout struggles.



g-man said:


> I would spray round up now that you have sun. It doesnt work as good without it.


Right now there's only one sprig that's resurfaced since the last glyphosate app. If the past pattern holds true, a couple more will also be popping up this week, so I'm giving it time to for more to surface and grow some leaf tissue before I nuke it for the last time.


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## probasestealer (Apr 19, 2018)

Killing bermuda is very difficult. I'm amazed at how much common bermuda is in my reno from last year. I think I'm just going to have to have a hybrid with the bermuda. Bermuda spreads into every bare area in the summer and the KBG spreads in the fall.


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## GrassTastesBad (Aug 4, 2018)

probasestealer said:


> Killing bermuda is very difficult. I'm amazed at how much common bermuda is in my reno from last year. I think I'm just going to have to have a hybrid with the bermuda. Bermuda spreads into every bare area in the summer and the KBG spreads in the fall.


The idea of reel low KBG that can spread to fill bare areas does seem intriguing. If the Bermuda manages to come back and form a big patch next summer, I might consider redoing another renovation with full KBG.

Pete from GCI is also doing a KBG renovation/experiment in Greensboro. It'll be interesting to see which cultivar does the best in our climate, and whether Pete will like the KBG better than his TTTF.


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