# First Soil test results



## wiread (Aug 27, 2019)

I sent a sample in to our local AgSource on Monday and got my results back today. I"ve spent the last 2 seasons overseeding and killing weeds. Did the fall blitz last year, though started a bit late and didn't get as much down as I had planned, but the N looks ok.

pH is high. Does it pay to do sulfur? or are the effects fleeting rather than long lasting? They do give recommendations later in the report so I'll read through those, but I just wanted some of your opinions. Thanks,


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## CaffeinatedLawnCare (Apr 2, 2021)

From what I've read on the subject, it really depends on your soil. Clay type soils will be harder to change than sandy soils. Judging from your test it looks like you have a clay type soil. Changes won't happen quickly but if you start applying sulfur and ammonium containing fertilizers on a regular basis you should be able to bring it down slightly, though it will be a long-term commitment. If you're going to go this route I would do it after aerating to incorporate the sulfur into the first 4-6" inches of soil (where the root zone is).

Other strategies I've heard are to just ignore the pH and just supplement with chelated iron/zinc/manganese etc. you can still have a great lawn with higher pH this way and not fight a (possibly) losing battle with the soil.


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## wiread (Aug 27, 2019)

CaffeinatedLawnCare said:


> From what I've read on the subject, it really depends on your soil. Clay type soils will be harder to change than sandy soils. Judging from your test it looks like you have a clay type soil. Changes won't happen quickly but if you start applying sulfur and ammonium containing fertilizers on a regular basis you should be able to bring it down slightly, though it will be a long-term commitment. If you're going to go this route I would do it after aerating to incorporate the sulfur into the first 4-6" inches of soil (where the root zone is).
> 
> Other strategies I've heard are to just ignore the pH and just supplement with chelated iron/zinc/manganese etc. you can still have a great lawn with higher pH this way and not fight a (possibly) losing battle with the soil.


That's kind of what I was thinking. I sold my aerator last year and am regretting it. Likely won't worry much about the pH since our goal is to move to a bigger house with real acreage in a year or 2.

It says my annual needs for the P is 1.5lbs per K and K is 1.3lbs per K. Is there a best practices way to do it? it just says not more than 1lb per K at a time. Should these be put down over time, as quickly as possible? spring and fall? just spring? Not sure how much I'll go after this all things considered, but I wish I still had my aerator...


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

An easy way to do it is to put down .75 lb per 1000 sq ft of N, P, and K with a balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 this spring and another .75 lb application sometime in the fall. You can then do your other fall fertilization with just nitrogen (preferably AMS as it is the most acidic). Here are general soil remediation guidelines:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=15165


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## wiread (Aug 27, 2019)

Thank you for linking that guide. Answered a lot of questions. I'm going to head to the co-op and see if they have a 10-10-10.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

On second thought, it would be better to do 1/2 lb this spring and 1 lb this fall instead of 3/4 and 3/4. You'll be wanting to do a full lb of nitrogen each month in the fall.


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## CaffeinatedLawnCare (Apr 2, 2021)

@wiread I like Virginiagals suggestion for the 1/2lb in spring and full 1lb of the 10-10-10 in the fall followed by AMS for your 'nitrogen blitz' if that's the route you're going :thumbup:. It gives you the nutrients you need without pushing too much growth at the wrong time and helps maintain/potentially lower your pH a bit. This is similar to the plan I'm going to be using this year (though not a 10-10-10 for the fert in my case).


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## wiread (Aug 27, 2019)

Thanks for the guidance guys. and just to clarify, the 10-10-10 is separate and I can still do the blitz normally correct?


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

The 10-10-10 at 10 lb per 1000 sq ft gives you one lb of nitrogen, one lb of phosphorus, and one lb of potassium per 1000 sq ft. You would use that as your fertilizer for the month when you apply it. You would not use another nitrogen fertilizer that month. You can spoonfeed it out if you like, like a half lb every two weeks. Water it in.


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## wiread (Aug 27, 2019)

Got it, thanks


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## wiread (Aug 27, 2019)

I checked with our local co-op today, no AMS available for me. They didn't have 10-10-10 so I got the 19-20-20 instead.

I'm going to put down 1/2lb now and 1lb in the fall. So just to make sure I'm close, I am doing about 75,000 sqft so I'll put down about 4 bags of the 19-20-20 for the 1/2lb N per K right?

ETA, the bags are 50lbs


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Your math is correct.


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