# Help Analyzing Soil Test Report



## Csmith (Jul 31, 2021)

Hi All,

I recently had a soil test completed through my local extension. I could really use some help on the best path forward in correcting the soil and whether or not the guidance provided by the extension seems accurate.

I was told to add 90lbs per 1k of lime, add 19-19-19 at a rate of 5lbs per 1k now and then in the late Fall or early Spring add 0-0-60 at a rate of 3lbs per 1k. I did tell them I was doing a renovation when I dropped the soil sample off so I'm not sure if this guidance factored that in or not.

I have an acre that I plan on renovating starting next year with a Fall 2022 seeding of TTTF. I won't be able to start adding any soil amendments until Spring of next year.

So, my questions; do these number seems accurate? The lime amount seemed excessive based on some research of where my ph level is but I'm new at this so leaning on others for guidance. If these numbers could/should be altered, what are some other recomendrions? I'll be killing everything off prior to seeding; will that impact the order or process of any of the amendments I'd be putting down?

Thanks!


----------



## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Here are general soil remediation guidelines:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=15165
90 lb/1000 sq ft of lime sounds reasonable. Divide it into two applications. It would be good if you could do half this fall and half next spring.

They are giving recommendations for a year's worth of amendments, Just do one lb of of a nutrient per 1000 sq ft in a month. The 19-19-19 at 5 lb/1000 sq ft will give you 1 lb of N, 1 lb of P, and 1 lb of K per 1000 sq ft.

Renovating an acre is quite an undertaking. Do you have irrigation? Why are you doing such a large area?


----------



## Csmith (Jul 31, 2021)

@Virginiagal thanks for the reply.

I don't think I'll be able to apply any lime this fall unfortunately. Just don't have the bandwidth right now. Even if I could I wouldn't plant as I'm just trying to learn and read on here as much as possible before tackling this. I want to give myself as much of a head start as possible.

However, if I apply 50lbs per 1k this Spring do you think that would be sufficient prior to me putting seed down next Fall? I would imagine that should push me to over 6 for a ph level. I could then probably apply another round that Fall. Would a sub 6 ph level even support a TTTF seed? Obviously, getting it over 6 would be more beneficial so I'm certainly aiming to get there. Also, do I need to start applying the 19-19-19 also in the Spring prior to killing everything off and planting? How many rounds would you suggest before retesting and checking levels again? Do you recommend this ratio or would you suggest a different route?

The old owners of my house only ever mowed the grass so they left a lot to be desired. I have what I'll call a standalone acre that the old owners let a local farmer come in to bale hay so they didn't have to maintain it. It's not really what I'd consider my front or back yard but it's the first thing people see as they come up our driveway so I want it to look nice. I've been cutting it and it's mostly just weeds and quite barren. I'd like to get it presentable. I don't have an irrigation system so I know I'm already facing an uphill battle and maybe I'm crazy for even attempting. I do plan to run several tripod type sprinklers to the grass after planting and rotate them around as much as possible as well as just hand water and pray for rounds of rain. A lot of work I know, but I'd like to try.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

You can also apply lime in the winter as long as the soil isn't frozen at the time or shortly after the application. I'm not sure which part of MD your in, I'm in southern part of central MD. Last year winter I applied 50# per 1k of lime in December, and the winter before that I applied 100# per 1 k of lime. The freeze and thaw of the ground actually helps the lime penetrate the soil.

IMO the more of the required lime you put down the earlier your pH will be corrected. Lime might take 2-3 years for it to work it's way down the soil, while you should see it start working on the top few inches in a few months. Most places recommend that an application of lime to be no more than 50#, but others have recommended up to 70/75# or even 100#. Below is the page on UMD regarding lime.

https://extension.umd.edu/resource/lime-and-lawns


----------



## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

The earlier you do lime before planting, the better. Lime reacts slowly. Doing 50 lb/1000 sq ft in the spring and 40 lb/1000 sq ft next fall is okay. It will continue to act over the next few years. I don't understand what bandwidth has to with it, but apparently it is a problem for this fall. The critical target is 5.8. The soil test is targeting 6.5, which is better, but if you have at least 5.8, you should be ok.

As for what fertilizer to use, do some comparison shopping. If you're not trying to maintain anything other than weeds, you don't need the nitrogen. But the balanced fertilizer (it could be 10-10-10 or 15-15-15 or whatever) may be an economical way to get phosphorus and potassium. See if you can find any products with just phosphorus or just potassium. Compare prices. The soil test is recommending 1 lb of phosphorus and 4 lb of potassium over the course of a year. One application of a balanced fertilizer at 1 lb/1000 sq ft for each nutrient will take care of the phosphorus and one lb of the potassium. You would need three more applications of potassium. The NPK numbers are percentages, so you need to figure out how much of the product to apply to get to 1 lb of a nutrient. For 10-10-10, for example you would apply 10 lb of product over 1000 sq ft. For 20-20-20, you would apply 5 lb of product. For 0-0-50, you would apply 2 lb of product over 1000 sq ft. Testing once a year is sufficient.

I would think again about trying to convert an acre of field into nice turfgrass. As long as you have a nice yard right around the house, what does it matter about the further off field? Maybe consider clover. If it's the approach to the house that concerns you, maybe consider some bushes to line the driveway. Or some trees. People will see that instead. Maybe a farmer might like to plant some soybeans. That makes a pretty field in the summer. You wouldn't even need to cut it.


----------



## Csmith (Jul 31, 2021)

Lawn Whisperer said:


> You can also apply lime in the winter as long as the soil isn't frozen at the time or shortly after the application. I'm not sure which part of MD your in, I'm in southern part of central MD. Last year winter I applied 50# per 1k of lime in December, and the winter before that I applied 100# per 1 k of lime. The freeze and thaw of the ground actually helps the lime penetrate the soil.
> 
> IMO the more of the required lime you put down the earlier your pH will be corrected. Lime might take 2-3 years for it to work it's way down the soil, while you should see it start working on the top few inches in a few months. Most places recommend that an application of lime to be no more than 50#, but others have recommended up to 70/75# or even 100#. Below is the page on UMD regarding lime.
> 
> https://extension.umd.edu/resource/lime-and-lawns


Thanks for the resource! I'll give it a read. I'm right along the MD/PA border in central MD.


----------



## Csmith (Jul 31, 2021)

Virginiagal said:


> The earlier you do lime before planting, the better. Lime reacts slowly. Doing 50 lb/1000 sq ft in the spring and 40 lb/1000 sq ft next fall is okay. It will continue to act over the next few years. I don't understand what bandwidth has to with it, but apparently it is a problem for this fall. The critical target is 5.8. The soil test is targeting 6.5, which is better, but if you have at least 5.8, you should be ok.
> 
> As for what fertilizer to use, do some comparison shopping. If you're not trying to maintain anything other than weeds, you don't need the nitrogen. But the balanced fertilizer (it could be 10-10-10 or 15-15-15 or whatever) may be an economical way to get phosphorus and potassium. See if you can find any products with just phosphorus or just potassium. Compare prices. The soil test is recommending 1 lb of phosphorus and 4 lb of potassium over the course of a year. One application of a balanced fertilizer at 1 lb/1000 sq ft for each nutrient will take care of the phosphorus and one lb of the potassium. You would need three more applications of potassium. The NPK numbers are percentages, so you need to figure out how much of the product to apply to get to 1 lb of a nutrient. For 10-10-10, for example you would apply 10 lb of product over 1000 sq ft. For 20-20-20, you would apply 5 lb of product. For 0-0-50, you would apply 2 lb of product over 1000 sq ft. Testing once a year is sufficient.
> 
> I would think again about trying to convert an acre of field into nice turfgrass. As long as you have a nice yard right around the house, what does it matter about the further off field? Maybe consider clover. If it's the approach to the house that concerns you, maybe consider some bushes to line the driveway. Or some trees. People will see that instead. Maybe a farmer might like to plant some soybeans. That makes a pretty field in the summer. You wouldn't even need to cut it.


I'm going to try and get it applied this Fall if I can. I just meant that I have some other obligations for the remainder of the year that limit my time at home and ability to do anything lawn related. That will change come next year. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll give it some thought about using that acre for something other than turf grass as I realize it is an undertaking.


----------

