# Plan after soil test



## Jd0606 (May 3, 2020)

Hello,

I am brand new here so I apologize if this is in the wrong spot. I am new to high level lawn care and I am trying to figure my new lawn out.

I have Bermuda grass that was laid out as sod for a newly built home in Austin Texas. The soil is mostly clay.The sod was laid in early March about two weeks before we moved in. The contractor didn't water it in well enough and I have some that never fully rooted (being replaced) and a lot of soil compaction issues. Overall the grass is in good shape. It is green and growing well but it is far from an elite lawn. I have multiple issues right now but I am mostly focused on providing the right nutrients to my yard. I had a soil test submitted at Texas A&M and here are my results.

It is important to note that shortly after this test I had a landscape company perform a liquid aeration and top dressing. I am aware that liquid aeration is not that beneficial but I am not planning on doing a core aeration for at least a year.

The top dressing they applied consisted of. 
20% ground cottonseed
20% turkey compost
20% dairy compost 
30% pine hummus
10% sand

Again this was laid about a week after my soil test. I am not sure what effect that would have on micro and macro nutrients.

Soil test results - 
PH- 8.3 - 
Conductivity- 221
N- 12ppm
P-6ppm
Pot- 83 PPM

They recommended the following fertilizer amounts
n- .4 lbs/ 1000
P- 2.6 lbs/1000
Pot- 1.5 lbs/ 1000

Since there is not a fertilizer with a ratio like that, Texas A&M suggested one of the following fertilizers 3 times a year. They suggested a lawn started formula may help improve the phosphorus levels and encourage longer root growth.

Fertilizer Pounds per 1000 Sqft

5-10-5 14 lbs/1000sqft

10-20-10 7 lbs/1000sqft

12-24-12 6 lbs/1000sqft

18-24-12 4 lbs/1000sqft

I am a novice and will certainly have to buy available fertilizer at lowes. The closest thing I found there was a bag of-

sta-green (lawn starter) 
18-24-6

According to Texas A&M's fertilizer guide I would lay this @ about 5lbs per 1000 sq feet. They will still leave a deficiency of 1.3 phosphate and .7 pot. Would three applications this growing season provide the right amount of nutrition?

My plan was to lay this fertilizer as well as quick acting sulfur (@ about 4 lbs per 1000 sq. feet) to drive the PH level down. I planned to lay the quick acting sulfur again in 3 months and do another soil test next spring.

Is this is good fertilizer to meet the needs laid out in my soil test? Is it ok to lay a quick acting sulfur with or right after that fertilizer? Is it ok to fertilize / lay sulfur so quickly after the top dressing?

Sorry this is so long. I hope I provided all the details needed for a suggestion. Thanks!


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

For a number of reasons, It is preferable that people post an image of their soil test prior to soliciting advice. For one, it avoids typos. For instance I doubt TAMU recommended 0.4 lbs of N/M for the season.
However, if the P&K levels are reported correctly, you can use a triple NPK (see the different TNPK formulations available here: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=151650). I would suggest you not apply more than 5lbs per thousand of P this season. (e.g. If you are using 10-10-10, do not apply more than 50 lbs/M of that 10-10-10 product this season, you can divide that 50lbs/M of 10-10-10 product up evenly into however many applications you wish to make this year. If you wish to apply more than the 5lbs/M of N than what the T10 product provides, then use any non phosphorous containing fertilizer for the additional N) OR: You can use g-man's link above for individual monthly application rates, just don't exceed the 5lb/M total P limit.


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## Jd0606 (May 3, 2020)

Thanks! I actually meant to attach the soil test. They did not recommend .4N for the season but said that's what was needed to meet the minimum requirement at the time the test was reformed. It's attached now.


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## Jd0606 (May 3, 2020)

This is what they suggested for fertilizers for the rest of the growing season. The only one I could find that was a close match was the sta green 18-24-6.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Apologies @Jd0606. My bad. I didn't remember that TAMU did a N calculation and have never been able to discern whether they do an N min test or if it's based on something else. It appears that their target is 1 lb of N/M per application and they are adjusting based on soil N levels for N fertilization recommendations.

The problem with the 18-24-6 is the low amount of potassium. It's a roll of the dice whether or not K would be sufficiently available at the end of the year. If you are only applying their recommended rate of .7 lbs/M of N X 3. Odds are in your favor. I would call and ask them why the difference between the test (.4 lbs of N) and the recommendation (.7 lbs of N). It will be interesting to see how your lawn performs at the lower N levels (2.1 lbs or 1.2 lbs for the season). Keep us posted.


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## Jd0606 (May 3, 2020)

Thanks. For a follow up.

Is it safe to apply sulfur at around 5 LBS/1000 at the same time or shortly after the fertilizer? I would like to work the ph level down over the next few seasons.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

I know of no reason that you can't apply S and NPK on the same day. You realize that attempting to make a permanent dent in a high pH soil is an effort in futility. There are benefits to be had by continuously adding acidifyers (ammonium sulfate, Sulfur, citric acid) to the soil to lower soil solution pH. You may see more benefit by adding 2#/M of S monthly. Search these forums for member greendoc, he has posted using a combination of S and citric acid with methods and amounts to apply.


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## Jd0606 (May 3, 2020)

Thanks for the info. I will search him up. Thanks again!


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