# Thickening my Bermuda



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

I recently, within 2 weeks, just aerated my lawn and laid down some Milos but my lawn isn't thick. I also laid down Milos about 4 weeks prior. What else can I do to help this along? I'm in San Antonio, TX. Thank you in advance.


----------



## PHXCobra (Mar 20, 2018)

Edited to add photos

Water. Gotta keep it watered. Mine looked like crap, thin, some patchy bare spots, and not very dark. Gave it more water, some fertilizer, and it took off. Most of my bare spots are completely full now and I can actually see some spots where the sprinklers weren't hitting as well as the others.

Photos in order. I dethatched and aerated in March. Pardon the children playing in sprinklers and water guns.


----------



## w0lfe (Mar 19, 2018)

Gabrielg1002 said:


> I recently, within 2 weeks, just aerated my lawn and laid down some Milos but my lawn isn't thick. I also laid down Milos about 4 weeks prior. What else can I do to help this along? I'm in San Antonio, TX. Thank you in advance.


 Has it been thicker in previous years?


----------



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

Cobra- how often do you water? I wanted once a week for about 10 minutes a zone.

W0lfe- yes it has been thick. We moved into this house about 2 years ago and it was thick when we moved in.

Excuse my daughter walking in the shot


----------



## PHXCobra (Mar 20, 2018)

That's not near enough water unless your sprinklers put out a ton or gpm. Our climates are similar (although you have more humidity and a little more rain). I water 3-4 times per week at 10 minutes per zone. Not sure exactly how much water that is but what you are doing is less than what I was doing trying to kill my winter rye via water stress.


----------



## w0lfe (Mar 19, 2018)

I agree. Definitely try adding some high nitrogen fertilizer and then put the water to it. You need to put down at least an inch of water per week, preferably in 1 or 2 waters per week. Also it might not hurt to have a soil test conducted


----------



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

Well, currently San Antonio is under water restrictions so I can only water once a week but I guess I'll Up it to 15 minutes in the morning and in the evening.


----------



## w0lfe (Mar 19, 2018)

Gabrielg1002 said:


> Well, currently San Antonio is under water restrictions so I can only water once a week but I guess I'll Up it to 15 minutes in the morning and in the evening.


If you can, 30 minutes in the morning would be better (depending on how much that puts out). You don't want to leave your blades of grass wet over night, you really start risking fungus and disease.


----------



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

So even though I threw out a slow release fertilizer in Melorganite, I should use a high nitrogen fertilizer also? I have a 28-3-10 available to hit it ASAP.


----------



## PHXCobra (Mar 20, 2018)

Absolutely. Put it down and water it in immediately after so ideally it would be the same day before you water.


----------



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

Will do that today and post pictures of either a great green lawn or a burnt to crap lawn Hahahaha thank you guys for all of your help


----------



## w0lfe (Mar 19, 2018)

Gabrielg1002 said:


> So even though I threw out a slow release fertilizer in Melorganite, I should use a high nitrogen fertilizer also? I have a 28-3-10 available to hit it ASAP.


Yes, absolutely. And water it in well


----------



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

Thank you all.


----------



## raldridge2315 (Jul 1, 2017)

You need to put tuna fish cans in each zone to measure how much water you are actually putting down in that time. Then adjust your time so that you get 1" per week.


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

raldridge2315 said:


> You need to put tuna fish cans in each zone to measure how much water you are actually putting down in that time. Then adjust your time so that you get 1" per week.


That works. I also consider the soil texture and climate conditions when figuring out how much water can and should be given. Sandy soils, it is a waste to try to put down an inch only once a week. In more clay soils, an inch+ is where I would be headed. For the longest time, I maintained a Bermuda lawn during a decade of drought by applying an inch+ of water once a week. This is on clay soil, fairly high humidity, and temperatures reaching a maximum of 95. I know requirements are different if the soil is different, humidity is lower, and temperatures are higher.


----------



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

I believe my soil does have clay and I was having an alge problem due to proper drainage so I aerated last Friday. Still seems as though some of the soil is super compact. I've read that I need to water in spurts like 15 minutes then let it dry a little bit and then hit it with another 15 minutes. I'm just lost. Somethings I read say water a ton and some say just do an inch once a week. I just want my yard to look like a golf course, is that too much to ask? Temps in San Antonio will hit triple digits later this week so what should I do?


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

The sprinklers your little ones are running through are throughout the lawn, yes? I recognize those as regular pop up sprinklers. At a normal spacing and arrangement, they put down an inch of water in 30 minutes. You might need to apply 1.5 inches because it is Texas. If I were having trouble with water penetration, timing would look like 10 minutes on, an hour off, 10 on, and another hour off followed by 10 minutes, another hour to soak in and then the final 15 minutes.

Clay soil that has a compaction/water penetration problem is a candidate for a soil test(pH, Calcium, Magnesium, Sodium levels), and possible usage of a soluble/sprayable Humic formula. The Humic can help re arrange the soil so it is less likely to pack together. A problem in my area is alkaline soil that is the texture of grease when it is wet and hard as a brick when dry. Usage of humic products has helped those soils to not be like grease when wet and to crumble when dry.


----------



## MatthewinGA (May 21, 2018)

Hit it with some lime or gypsum to soften up that soil and keep up the Milorganite. Both of those will help with drought stress and nutrition uptake. 
The summer with also kick it in high gear and fill in.

My goal here in Atlanta (little rain) is to never have to water as I haven't the past 2 years.


----------



## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

@Gabrielg1002 - @Greendoc is correct. The soil from the Gulf to DFW is very alkaline clay. You are near the edge of that, but still in it. A wetting agent can help with water penetration in the short term, but the humic additions will help to alter the soil structure over time. Do not add lime (you live on a limestone bed). Gypsum might help drainage, but wetting agents and humic acid are better.


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Gypsum only helps if you are dealing with acidic soil that happens to be Sodium contaminated. Otherwise, the Gypsum will sit in a layer on the ground surface and take decades to penetrate downward. I have seen and dealt with alkaline clay where amendment with Gypsum was attempted. Wasted work. The only thing to show for it was elevated Calcium levels and the same grease like texture. Other worthy amendments are Citric Acid applied at 2 lb per 1000 sq ft per month. That will attack and break down the Calcium and Magnesium Carbonate responsible for hardening the soil.


----------



## w0lfe (Mar 19, 2018)

@gab@Gabrielg1002 also since you're new to these boards, it's wise to listen to greendoc. The dude knows his stuff 😁


----------



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

What products would you recommend for a wetting agent and/or humic acid?


----------



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

@w0lfe haha thanks for the heads up. Greendoc it is.


----------



## kur1j (Jul 2, 2017)

@Gabrielg1002 I'm actually interested in knowing what greendoc recommends. I have areas I would like to fill in as well. Greendocs words are on point.


----------



## mark33w (May 31, 2018)

I live in SA too and have the same water restrictions. I water once a week but I do 36 minutes a zone (on the ones that I care most about at least). I do 36 minutes as that is what it took to fill up most of my lawn water measure devices close to 1". That said, we have very bad clay soil here that doesn't take water well so I do 12 minutes on, soak for 20 minutes, 12 minutes on, soak for 20 minutes, and then the final 12 minutes. Honestly, even with that I still have a lot of run off so I may make the soak periods longer in the future. I'm pretty sure that doesn't even get me a full inch in all my zones so I may water more if I have issues during the heat but so far I think I'm good as I'm seeing good growth between cuts. Even when we aren't restricted to one day I try to get all the watering done in one day as I want the roots to grow in nice and deep as I have a newish lawn. That and Milo every 4 weeks (with a little fast fert every once and a while) and mowing low at 3/4" has made my bermuda grass thicken up very well. My lawn wasn't that bad when I moved in last year as it was new sod but it wasn't that great either because they let it grow way to high before I moved in.

Hope that helps!

Mark


----------



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

Mark- thanks for the info. I'm cutting my Bermuda at 1.25"(that's my second lowest setting on my machine), cut it every 4-5 days and I have the shortest Bermuda in the neighborhood and other grass is greener but it sounds like I'm not watering nearly enough so I'll up my watering game.


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Gabrielg1002 said:


> What products would you recommend for a wetting agent and/or humic acid?


In clay soils, wetting agents do not do that much unless there is a water repellent thatch layer keeping the water away from the soil. For the Humic products, I like the ones that consist of a Humic/Fulvic blend. Kelp4Less sells Humic and Fulvic. I am partial to a product made by Andersons Golf called Ultra Mate SG. However, a lot of this matters not if your soil pH is over 7.










Diminished availability of the elements you might recognize as minerals or metals even in the presence of adequate Nitrogen often causes grass that is alive but not thriving. My eyes see a grass that is getting enough Nitrogen and water, but the Micronutrients are possibly limiting. The grass also has the look of growing on soil with a pH over 7. Bermuda is a dark green when growing under good conditions. I am also careful about applying Phosphorus from any source, including Milorganite. High levels of Phosphorus have been known to complex with other nutrients and make them less available. After getting your soil tested, you may be instructed to apply fertilizers supplying Nitrogen and not as Milorganite. You may also be instructed to add granulated Sulfur. Do it. Sulfur in and of itself is an essential nutrient, in addition to an aid for correcting soil pH.


----------



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

Thank you Greendoc. I really appreciate your help.


----------



## mark33w (May 31, 2018)

Gabrielg1002 said:


> Mark- thanks for the info. I'm cutting my Bermuda at 1.25"(that's my second lowest setting on my machine), cut it every 4-5 days and I have the shortest Bermuda in the neighborhood and other grass is greener but it sounds like I'm not watering nearly enough so I'll up my watering game.


Yeah I think some more water will help you out. If your trying to thicken up you probably want to apply 1.5 lbs of nitrogen per 1000 every 30 days too. I was doing 1 lb per 1000 but when i moved to 1.5 lbs that definitely helped thickening me up. That and I think mowing more often definitely helps. At your height you probably don't need to mow more often then that but if you do it might help. At 3/4" I have to mow 3 times a week but I enjoy it so its no biggie and luckily I work from home so I can just go out right after work.

Your definitely doing the right thing mowing low. It will definitely help in the end. I have a lot of neighbors that are somewhat green until they mow and then all the stems show through and its ugly. I'm assuming you scalped one level below your current HOC but if you didn't that would help you green up too.

Good luck!


----------



## Bunnysarefat (May 4, 2017)

With my
DIY system I have to water for like 8-10 hours to get .5 inches distributed evenly. I guess maybe it's a good thing because it ensures no runoff. I see normal pro systems on here with 10 min run times and I'm thinking no way that's enough water. Best to measure every way you can so you know for sure. I'd see if I couldn't get a reading on one individual head if you are under water restrictions and want to get precise with it. Whatever you can do.. and nice kicks @PHXCobra👌🏻


----------



## Bunnysarefat (May 4, 2017)

a lot of these sprinkler head manufactures have charts and stuff you can look at to figure it out as well. It shows pressure and distance and gpm. If you know 1 or 2 you can sort of figure out the unknown variable.


----------



## raldridge2315 (Jul 1, 2017)

Bunnysarefat said:


> a lot of these sprinkler head manufactures have charts and stuff you can look at to figure it out as well. It shows pressure and distance and gpm. If you know 1 or 2 you can sort of figure out the unknown variable.


I think that this info is more aimed at system design. If the system is already in place, it becomes "nice to know." I would encourage actual measurement with tuna cans. Place the cans in a zone, run that zone for a period of time. Measure the amount of water in the cans. Adjust the time to achieve the desired amount. Several cans also shows how consistent the coverage is. Did I mention that I like tuna fist!! :lol: :lol:


----------



## fp_911 (Apr 10, 2017)

raldridge2315 said:


> Did I mention that I like tuna fist!! :lol: :lol:


I hope you meant "tuna fish" because I'm not familiar with tuna fist and if it does exist this probably isn't the website to discuss it. HAHA! :lol:


----------



## raldridge2315 (Jul 1, 2017)

fp_911 said:


> raldridge2315 said:
> 
> 
> > Did I mention that I like tuna fist!! :lol: :lol:
> ...


Ya, well, the mind and the fingers don't get along.


----------



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

I found these spots in my yard today. Looks like alge. Seems like there are a few other spots just like this. Man, seems like I'm fighting one tough battle. Anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## Colonel K0rn (Jul 4, 2017)

Gabrielg1002 said:


> I found these spots in my yard today. Looks like alge. Seems like there are a few other spots just like this. Man, seems like I'm fighting one tough battle. Anyone have any suggestions?


You're fine. I see some Milorganite prills there, and the microbes are just going to town on them, algae included.


----------



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

So just let the Milorganite do its job?


----------



## Redland1 (Feb 26, 2018)

I'm just north of you in Cibolo and I had areas of my lawn that were thin or even bare in some spots.I went up to 2lbs N per 1k ft and it has helped a whole lot and that's that I don't have an irrigation system so I use impact sprinklers and most likely never get the 1" of water.You should be good bumping up the N and putting down the 1" or 1 plus inch of water a week.


----------



## Colonel K0rn (Jul 4, 2017)

Gabrielg1002 said:


> So just let the Milorganite do its job?


Yeah, it's fine. Milo is good, because it's a slower release, and organic with a relatively low N pound for pound. If you really want to get the 'muda runnin, try putting out 1 #N/M of 38-0-0, and be sure you have gas in the cans, and some hydration, because you're going to be mowing often.


----------



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

@Colonel K0rn I just hit my yard with 28-3-10.


----------



## FATC1TY (Jul 12, 2017)

Just blast it with high fast release nitrogen, it's cheap. It's easy and you will be mowing your butt off.

Mow more, mow lower, and feed it and water it and it'll fill in like crazy.


----------



## Redland1 (Feb 26, 2018)

Here is an area that was bare just before spring green up.


----------



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

So I have a lot of algea, as you guys know, I watered an area for 10 minutes and walked out to this.


----------



## Joshj233 (May 28, 2018)

Gabriel, I experience a similar situation along my fence. The house behind me sits higher than mine and I get the rain runoff from them. I think the soil along the fence line has become compacted from this. I am looking into a drainage system to carry excess water away.


----------



## Gabrielg1002 (May 18, 2018)

So it turns out that the above water was due to a leak in my whole zone. Will the grass come back now that the leaks are fixed?


----------

