# Soil Test Results



## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Can someone please help with what I should my lawn with the results shown. I have KBG sod that I planted about a year ago. I'm in NY and spring is arriving. Thanks.


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## 01Bullitt (Aug 31, 2020)

You're likely not to get much feedback because of the soil testing lab you chose. The mysoil testing lab is considered to be inaccurate and they secretive about their testing method. Read this thread https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=142339#p142339. It's best to use a local cooperative extension service or a lab mentioned here https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=3124.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

so what testing lab can/should i use ? thanks


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

You can read through the links that were posted but most of us here will use Waypoint or our local Ag extension office


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Hello All. So I got my results from Waypoint. What do you think?

Fertilizer suggestions? Thank you very much.


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## Bombers (Jul 14, 2020)

Can't do much about high P-K until your lawn uses it up and leaches out naturally. You can mechanically remove some of it via core aeration and leave it alone or topdress with an inert material i.e sand. I would just leave it alone. You got it easy. Just apply straight N.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Any fertilizer application this year? How deep was your soil sample?


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

I would ignore the P and K recommendations from Waypoint unless your actually in KBG sod production.

Note: 18ppm of nitrate in early spring? I suspect that your samples might've been contaminated with fertilizer.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

This is what my lawn looks like now coming into spring. It seems a lot yellower than others


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

g-man said:


> Any fertilizer application this year? How deep was your soil sample?


I haven't done anything to the lawn yet


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

With that level of P and K, all you need is nitrogen (assuming at least 4in deep samples).


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

g-man said:


> With that level of P and K, all you need is nitrogen (assuming at least 4in deep samples).


So a high nitrogen fertilizer? Won't that burn the lawn?


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

What they're saying is you need a fertilizer with just nitrogen. You don't need the kind with phosphorus and potassium. You have a small yard so you will use only a small amount of fertilizer. How much will depend on the NPK of whatever you get. This article from Purdue could be useful to help you find a fertilizer and calculate how much to use and when to apply:
https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ay/ay-22-w.pdf
Also, the soil remediation guidelines here has useful information:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=15165

It is sort of ironic that you have a soil test report with amounts in lbs per acre when you have 400 sq ft. They gave you recommendations for sod production. Next time select the option for home lawns. Recommendations in lbs per 1000 sq ft will make more sense and not need translation.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

What matters is the total amount of N/ksqft. Keep it at no more than 0.75lb of N/ksqft at it will be safe. 0.25lb of N/ksqft is what I try to do but knowing that I might have to apply more frequently to keep the grass growing. You want the grass to grow around 1in/week when the weather is nice.

Also, your image looks to be more than 400sqft.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Lawn Whisperer said:


> I would ignore the P and K recommendations from Waypoint unless your actually in KBG sod production.
> 
> Note: 18ppm of nitrate in early spring? I suspect that your samples might've been contaminated with fertilizer.


My sod is KBG.

WHat do you mean contaminated with fertilizer? How would that be possible? I did not fertilize.
18ppm of nitrate is high? HOw would that happen is I didnt fertilize?


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

anyone ?


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

anyone know why some parts of lawn is coming up yellow and some very green? thanks


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

If you did not apply fertilizer last fall, that may be why green up is slow. The nitrate level on the soil test isn't important. It will jump around week to week. We apply nitrogen according to what kind of grass it is. KBG needs 2-4 lb per 1000 sq ft of nitrogen a year and fall is when most should be applied. Here is a Penn State publication with lots of info on fertilizer. Go down to the section on fertilizer programs:
https://extension.psu.edu/turfgrass-fertilization-a-basic-guide-for-professional-turfgrass-managers
It is also helpful to leave clippings on the lawn when you mow.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

g-man said:


> What matters is the total amount of N/ksqft. Keep it at no more than 0.75lb of N/ksqft at it will be safe. 0.25lb of N/ksqft is what I try to do but knowing that I might have to apply more frequently to keep the grass growing. You want the grass to grow around 1in/week when the weather is nice.
> 
> Also, your image looks to be more than 400sqft.


This early in the season, i think the lawn looks fine. Try to mow it to remove the winter damage and try to do 0.25lb of N/ksqft.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Really appreciate the help guys. Here in the northeast when should I do my first fertilizing?


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

g-man said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> > What matters is the total amount of N/ksqft. Keep it at no more than 0.75lb of N/ksqft at it will be safe. 0.25lb of N/ksqft is what I try to do but knowing that I might have to apply more frequently to keep the grass growing. You want the grass to grow around 1in/week when the weather is nice.
> ...


How would I know I'm applying that much N .25 lbs per ksq ft? Thanks


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Go and buy a fertilizer at your local big box store. I think you should do something called "crabgrass preventer". It is likely something 30-0-8 (or close enough numbers). That 30% nitrogen by weight.

I'm suggesting 0.25lb of N, so the math is 0.25/0.30 = 0.8333lb of the fertilizer. Let's round up to make it easy, 1lb. If you use 1lb of that fert, you will apply 0.3lb of N.

You will need to get a scale (kitchen or bathroom) and weight just 1lb to spread it over 1ksqft. But you said it is only 400sqft. That means you only need 0.4lb. A fairly small amount.

I hope i was clear.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

g-man said:


> Go and buy a fertilizer at your local big box store. I think you should do something called "crabgrass preventer". It is likely something 30-0-8 (or close enough numbers). That 30% nitrogen by weight.
> 
> I'm suggesting 0.25lb of N, so the math is 0.25/0.30 = 0.8333lb of the fertilizer. Let's round up to make it easy, 1lb. If you use 1lb of that fert, you will apply 0.3lb of N.
> 
> ...


yes. your very kind!


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

mstrlucky74 said:


> Lawn Whisperer said:
> 
> 
> > I would ignore the P and K recommendations from Waypoint unless your actually in KBG sod production.
> ...


The crop you selected for is likely for bluegrass sod farms. I recommend changing the selected crop to "bluegrass, lawn" on the app or by contacting the lab.

Nitrogen is mobile in soil, to see 18 ppm in early spring at your temps is uncommon. It could be from OM or residual from your fall applications. What types of fertilizers were you applying? Did it contain slow release fertilizer like coated urea? What was your rate of applications? How much of the bag was being applied?

How did you take the soil samples? Did you use tools that might have contained residual fertilizers? Did you add anything to the soil sample? What type of container did you use for the sample?

I do not think you should apply any fertilizers at this time. Does the yellow areas seem to be getting larger? We're the yellow areas greener a few weeks ago? Did you see any growth in the previous weeks in those areas?

Did you ever figure out the previous issues of yellowing that you had in the past?


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

The other issue I see in your soil test result is the P levels. Your P level of 662ppm is eight times higher than the higher than the high optimum recommended value.

 Phosphorus - Too Much and Plants May Suffer 



> Soils with extractable phosphorus levels between 150 to 200 ppm (parts per million) probably will have problems for 3 to 5 years. Soils with phosphorus levels above 330 ppm will require special treatments for much longer.


Disclaimer: I don't have personal experience on how to treat high P lawns nor do I claim to be an expert on soil biology. I'm just another lawn enthusiast just like most in this forum.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Lawn Whisperer said:


> The other issue I see in your soil test result is the P levels. Your P level of 662ppm is eight times higher than the higher than the high optimum recommended value.
> 
> Phosphorus - Too Much and Plants May Suffer
> 
> ...


what can i do about that ? please there has to be something i can do .


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

I recommend changing the selected crop to "bluegrass, lawn" on the app or by contacting the lab. I'm hoping that the PPM for "sod" and "lawn" are different. Sod producer farms do not maintain deep roots.

How deep were your soil samples? If you mainly took samples from the upper layers of the soil, like 1-2", it could skew the results.
How did you take the soil samples? Did you use tools that might have contained residual fertilizers? Did you add anything to the soil sample? What type of container did you use for the sample?

What types of fertilizers were you applying last year? Did it contain slow release fertilizer like coated urea? What was your rate of applications? How much of the bag was being applied?


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

mstrlucky74 said:


> Lawn Whisperer said:
> 
> 
> > I would ignore the P and K recommendations from Waypoint unless your actually in KBG sod production.
> ...


Here is a thread posted by @Deadlawn regarding  Nitrogen in Turfgrass Health and Stress . Your nitrate levels are at 18ppm the ammonium levels are not normally included in soil tests; it would be safe to assume that your lawn has over 20ppm of N. For reference, according to @Ridgerunner nutrient calculation a pound of N is equal to 21.78ppm.



> ...levels of total nitrogen (a sum of nitrate and ammonium nitrogen) that are above 20 ppm can cause damage to turf.


Maybe, @Ridgerunner can better diagnose the situation. Or maybe @Greendoc can assist with the remediation of your Waypoint soil test results. 
@Virginiagal or @g-man, any other recommendations?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I would just keep it simple with a low dose of N to see how it responds. Mow it to remove some of the winter damage.


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

g-man said:


> I would just keep it simple with a low dose of N to see how it responds. Mow it to remove some of the winter damage.


 :thumbup:


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

g-man said:


> I would just keep it simple with a low dose of N to see how it responds. Mow it to remove some of the winter damage.


but i thought i have too much N? why add more?


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Your nitrate levels might not really be that high if you took the soil samples incorrectly. I'm guessing you didn't go deep enough. Likely a starter fertilizer with a good amount of phosphorus was used when the sod was put in. That phosphorus would still be in the top inch of soil. For the phosphorus to read so high, it sounds like you didn't go deep enough in taking the samples. If there was some organic matter mixed in, that would skew the results. Here are Waypoint's directions on taking soil samples:
https://www.waypointanalytical.com/Docs/WaypointSoilSamplingGuide.pdf

@g-man advice is good. Do a little bit of nitrogen and see if it helps. @Lawn Whisperer has gone above the call of duty to help out. You haven't answered the questions he asked.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

@Lawn Whisperer Tilt. No, just ... no. There is an error here somewhere: Sampling or lab.
Everyone knows I'm not a fan of MySoil or SS for the reasons I've repeatedly given. However, the few posts of MySoil results and a contemporaneous standard lab have shown correlation. In this case many nutrients do not correlate. Not conclusive, but does raise red flags for me.

I agree with @Virginiagal: @mstrlucky74 needs to answer lawn whisper's question for anyone to try to get a handle on this. Otherwise everyone is wasting their time.



Lawn Whisperer said:


> I recommend changing the selected crop to "bluegrass, lawn" on the app or by contacting the lab. I'm hoping that the PPM for "sod" and "lawn" are different. Sod producer farms do not maintain deep roots.
> 
> How deep were your soil samples? If you mainly took samples from the upper layers of the soil, like 1-2", it could skew the results. *How many samples did you take over the whole lawn. When did you take the samples for the MySoil tests? When did you take the samples for the Waypoint test?*
> How did you take the soil samples? Did you use tools that might have contained residual fertilizers? Did you add anything to the soil sample? What type of container did you use for the sample?
> ...


 Edits/additions are mine.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Lawn Whisperer said:


> mstrlucky74 said:
> 
> 
> > Lawn Whisperer said:
> ...


i forgot what i used last summer but do know i used milorganite. . once. 
i actually bought a soil probe and went down about 6"".

i put in a plastic ziplock bag . i didn't add anything to the sample .


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

So you don't know what fertilizer was used when the sod was put in or how much was used? You didn't use any fertilizer in the fall except for one application of Milorganite? How much Milorganite did you apply to what square footage? Did you add compost? Did you contact the lab to change the characterization from sod production to home lawn? You'll get more usable lab recommendations that way.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

How many soil samples did you take across the yard? What kind of bucket did you mix them in? Were all the samples 6 inches deep? Did you pull out thatch?


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Virginiagal said:


> How many soil samples did you take across the yard? What kind of bucket did you mix them in? Were all the samples 6 inches deep? Did you pull out thatch?


i did about 6 samples and put them right in plastic bag. very little thatch


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Still a mystery. But @g-man's suggestion of do a little nitrogen and see what happens is a good way to proceed. You seem concerned about nitrogen burning the lawn. Always water in fertilizers after applying. That gets it off the leaves down to the soil and helps prevent volatilization. Milorganite is high in phosphorus, which all the tests show you're high in, so it's better to go with something with less phosphorus. If you prefer to use organic fertilizers, you could consider soybean meal, cracked corn, alfalfa pellets. They do have phosphorus but it's not as high a percentage. They can be considered slow release because they have to be decomposed by the soil critters before the nutrients are released. And they're better for warm months (spring, early fall) than cold ones because the bacteria, etc. have to be active. This fall you should be doing fertilizer every month as KBG needs a good amount of nitrogen. So you could start middle to end of August, then September, October.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Virginiagal said:


> Still a mystery. But @g-man's suggestion of do a little nitrogen and see what happens is a good way to proceed. You seem concerned about nitrogen burning the lawn. Always water in fertilizers after applying. That gets it off the leaves down to the soil and helps prevent volatilization. Milorganite is high in phosphorus, which all the tests show you're high in, so it's better to go with something with less phosphorus. If you prefer to use organic fertilizers, you could consider soybean meal, cracked corn, alfalfa pellets. They do have phosphorus but it's not as high a percentage. They can be considered slow release because they have to be decomposed by the soil critters before the nutrients are released. And they're better for warm months (spring, early fall) than cold ones because the bacteria, etc. have to be active. This fall you should be doing fertilizer every month as KBG needs a good amount of nitrogen. So you could start middle to end of August, then September, October.


thank you very much . i'm going to try something with no P and just maybe nitrogen .


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

mstrlucky74 said:


> Can someone please help with what I should my lawn with the results shown. I have KBG sod that I planted about a year ago. I'm in NY and spring is arriving. Thanks.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Sorry mistake on the posting.

So when should I do my first pass of fertilizer here on Long Island? It's in the 50s right now and surely will get into the 60 soon. Thanks


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Cornell says when the grass is actively growing, above 55 degrees:
https://nysipm.cornell.edu/environment/our-land-our-water/lawn-care-basics

Next time you do a soil test, take more samples and mix them in a plastic bucket. Waypoint says 10-15 samples. If all you did was put the 6 samples in a plastic bag and did not mix them, that could account for a test error, as they take only a small amount from the bag to test.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Virginiagal said:


> Cornell says when the grass is actively growing, above 55 degrees:
> https://nysipm.cornell.edu/environment/our-land-our-water/lawn-care-basics
> 
> Next time you do a soil test, take more samples and mix them in a plastic bucket. Waypoint says 10-15 samples. If all you did was put the 6 samples in a plastic bag and did not mix them, that could account for a test error, as they take only a small amount from the bag to test.


ty


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

mstrlucky74 said:


> Virginiagal said:
> 
> 
> > Cornell says when the grass is actively growing, above 55 degrees:
> ...


I think I'm gonna do more samples today and do another test


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

I just don't understand how some of my grass could look nice and green but then other parts of terrible. I just laid this last spring the KBG.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Rooted differently, different thickness of the sod, different areas from the sod farm, different amount of sunlight, different amount of snow cover, animal pee areas, etc.

It really doesnt matter. Feed it and mow it and it will be fine. If you keep waiting, it might turn worst since grass not growing starts to fade.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

g-man said:


> Rooted differently, different thickness of the sod, different areas from the sod farm, different amount of sunlight, different amount of snow cover, animal pee areas, etc.
> 
> It really doesnt matter. Feed it and mow it and it will be fine. If you keep waiting, it might turn worst since grass not growing starts to fade.


Thanks. Well some on here said leave it alone for now(I think) and don't feed and when I do use fert with NO P.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

A new lawn (from seed or sod), doesnt have a lot of root structure to hold on to nutrients. It would benefit from some low dose of nitrogen frequent until it develops. I think you need nitrogen.

Think of it like a small baby (2-3months). They mostly want to eat every 3-4hrs, but only 3-4oz. As they grow, they can handle more ounces and less frequent. Once they get to 6 months, they can go a few hours at night without waking up hungry and the parents can finally sleep more than 5hrs/day. 

For now, spoon feedings of nitrogen (0.25lb of N/ksqft) and dont let it get too dry.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

g-man said:


> A new lawn (from seed or sod), doesnt have a lot of root structure to hold on to nutrients. It would benefit from some low dose of nitrogen frequent until it develops. I think you need nitrogen.
> 
> Think of it like a small baby (2-3months). They mostly want to eat every 3-4hrs, but only 3-4oz. As they grow, they can handle more ounces and less frequent. Once they get to 6 months, they can go a few hours at night without waking up hungry and the parents can finally sleep more than 5hrs/day.
> 
> For now, spoon feedings of nitrogen (0.25lb of N/ksqft) and dont let it get too dry.


Thanks. Know all about a small baby...just had my first...a year old this month.


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

g-man said:


> For now, spoon feedings of nitrogen (0.25lb of N/ksqft) and dont let it get too dry.


^+1
@mstrlucky74, 0.25lb N/k sqft is not going to hurt the lawn; that is equal to 5 ppm of nitrogen. Nitrogen is not an issue until it gets to 40 ppm.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Lawn Whisperer said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> > For now, spoon feedings of nitrogen (0.25lb of N/ksqft) and dont let it get too dry.
> ...


Thanks.so if my lawn is about 50'x30'= 1,500 sq ft. I need to put down about .37lbs? 
I just weight it out and apply?


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

It depends on the ratio of the fertilizer you are using.
Urea (46-0-0) 0.8lb / 1500 sq ft
AMS (21-0-0) 1.75lb / 1500 sq ft

It is the weight of the actual ingredient, nitrogen in this case, not the product.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Lawn Whisperer said:


> It depends on the ratio of the fertilizer you are using.
> Urea (46-0-0) 0.8lb / 1500 sq ft
> AMS (21-0-0) 1.75lb / 1500 sq ft
> 
> It is the weight of the actual ingredient, nitrogen in this case, not the product.


Ok, thanks and hate to keep being a pest. I don't exactly follow what I should look for when I go and buy it. lol


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

If you go to home depot, buy this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vigoro-15-78-lb-5-000-sq-ft-Spring-and-Fall-Crabgrass-Preventer-and-Lawn-Fertilizer-52212-1/205563917

If you go to Walmart: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Expert-Gardener-Triple-Action-Lawn-Food-Fertilizer-12lb-Covers-4-000-sq-ft/626925310

Apply 1lb of this product per ksqft. It will provide nitrogen + crabgrass preventer (avoids summer weeds). Do not use it in the area you plan to do new sod. Only use into established lawns areas.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

g-man said:


> If you go to home depot, buy this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vigoro-15-78-lb-5-000-sq-ft-Spring-and-Fall-Crabgrass-Preventer-and-Lawn-Fertilizer-52212-1/205563917
> 
> If you go to Walmart: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Expert-Gardener-Triple-Action-Lawn-Food-Fertilizer-12lb-Covers-4-000-sq-ft/626925310
> 
> Apply 1lb of this product per ksqft. It will provide nitrogen + crabgrass preventer (avoids summer weeds). Do not use it in the area you plan to do new sod. Only use into established lawns areas.


thank you very much . when should i do my first fertilizer of the season ?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

This week?


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

g-man said:


> This week?


is that a question ? lol . i asked the question 😊


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Last week would be better, but can you do it this week? In other words, dont wait.


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

mstrlucky74 said:



> g-man said:
> 
> 
> > If you go to home depot, buy this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Vigoro-15-78-lb-5-000-sq-ft-Spring-and-Fall-Crabgrass-Preventer-and-Lawn-Fertilizer-52212-1/205563917
> ...


This will count as portion of your fertilizer for the season. They are fertilizers with high nitrogen ratios combined with weed control.

It doesn't seem that you have any spring weeds. What have you applied to prevent the spring weeds from popping up?


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

So I took more soil samples to send to waypoint. I noticed that the soil by where the grass is yellow in different spots is very very hard. I could barely get the probe down 2-3 inches.
Not sure if that means anything.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Could there be rocks or other debris a few inches down? If this is fairly new construction, builders have a bad habit of covering up junk from building with a few inches of soil and it's not enough to support turfgrass. Dig and see what you find.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Virginiagal said:


> Could there be rocks or other debris a few inches down? If this is fairly new construction, builders have a bad habit of covering up junk from building with a few inches of soil and it's not enough to support turfgrass. Dig and see what you find.


no just very very compacted soil.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Roots need sufficient air and water. Why is this area so very, very compacted?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

As a test, apply a good amount of water to this area, wait 30min and check again. What most ppl think is compaction, ends up just being dry. Just like the kitchen sponge, when it gets dry, it gets hard.

Did you manage to mow and apply some nitrogen?


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

g-man said:


> As a test, apply a good amount of water to this area, wait 30min and check again. What most ppl think is compaction, ends up just being dry. Just like the kitchen sponge, when it gets dry, it gets hard.
> 
> Did you manage to mow and apply some nitrogen?


thanks . i didn't mow or apply fertilizer yet. it's not to early to apply nitrogen ?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

It is not too early your your young grass.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

g-man said:


> It is not too early your your young grass.


Thanks. I should water right after applying?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

yes


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

i'm going to buy this. has 3% of some crap..lol. hope this is ok.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Yes that works.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Should I aerate before I put down?
So if I need about .25lbs of N per thousand sq ft. and have 1,500 sq ft. I should out down about 1.25 lbs of this fertilizer?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Mow and use about 1lb/ksqft. Water the area.

No need to aerate or anything else.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

g-man said:


> Mow and use about 1lb/ksqft. Water the area.
> 
> No need to aerate or anything else.


ty. 1lb of total fertilizer, correct?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

1lb of the fertilizer in your picture per 1000sqft


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

so i did my first fertilizer and watering yesterday . what schedule should i be on with fertilizing and watering ? thank you .


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Can someone help me now please with when I need to water and fertilize during the spring after this first one I did the other day. Thank you very much


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

anyone ??? ty


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

here's my 2nd sample test results from Waypoint


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## SnootchieBootchies (Mar 23, 2021)

she's just waking up. I'm north of you and looking similar. It's just northern KBG life.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

I don't understand. I keep getting emails that a response has been posted but I don't see any.


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## Easyluck (Feb 5, 2019)

Read the cool season lawn guide then read it again. It covers mowing, watering, fertilizing and weed control. If you have specific questions related to the guide you can post under the cool season thread.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1595


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Easyluck said:


> Read the cool season lawn guide then read it again. It covers mowing, watering, fertilizing and weed control. If you have specific questions related to the guide you can post under the cool season thread.
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1595


Thank you.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Ok I read it and under the irrigation practices it mentioned 1" per week at once but nothing about how much during spring time.


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## Easyluck (Feb 5, 2019)

Grass needs approximately 1 inch of water per week throughout the growing season. Additional information can be found using the search functionality.


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## mstrlucky74 (Jun 4, 2020)

Easyluck said:


> Grass needs approximately 1 inch of water per week throughout the growing season. Additional information can be found using the search functionality.


Thanks.


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