# Bermuda refuses to get better. Please help!



## thelawnnoob (Jul 19, 2021)

Hi, as my name implies, I'm totally new to lawns and my lawn just isn't responding to anything I do to help  
- I live in GA.
- My lawn was sodded around October last year and it rained like crazy till February, it still rains occasionally but only for short periods of time so I follow the 1-inch rule by heavily watering once a week.
- Early on, there was an enormous infestation of what the lawn-care company called Broadleaf weed (it had a long stem with seeds on multiple branches on top - somewhat similar to rice crops). They "tried" to deal with it 2-3 times over a course of 2 months and it just covered up the whole lawn. I spent a week to manually pull them all out at the root.
- Needless to say, I am no longer their customer. And I'm hesitant to trust any other company so looking for DIY solutions which won't blow a hole in my pocket.
- After that those weeds haven't come back.
- Since then, I added a store bought Vigoro lawn fertilizer, tried covering up spots where I could see the ground with Bermuda seeds from Scott's brand.
- At this point here are some issues I am looking at (please let me know if I haven't covered all of them). All descriptive text is above images.

1. I bought a few sod patches, about a month ago, from home depot to replace where previous sod was totally dead (all brown, pulled out easy and just fell apart when picked up). For reference, here is what the new sod looks like now.


2. In the below image, there seems to be a lime-green patch above the green hose. This is a small patch distinctly visible here but there are some spots which look lime-green overall so it doesn't seem that bad. Do I need to be worried? Is it fungus? How do I get it all to have the same color?


3. Here's what most of the lawn looks like. How do I get it back? As a comparison, my neighbor's whole lawn looks like the sod patch in picture 1.




4. Here's a close-up to some places where no matter what I do - detach using a rake, heavy water, fertilize, throw new Bermuda seeds at it - it just stays like this. What do I do? Also notice that the soil below the grass has turned black, is this bad?


5. A lot of the Bermuda grew like this - big thick stalks - which makes the lawn look like it's filled in with crabgrass (I know crabgrass in reality is a lot worse, but you get the picture). I tried mowing it to 1-inch with a gas powered Honda rotary mower that collected the clippings, but these sections just have the big stalks left which are more apparent now.





6. Here are some new weeds growing, peppered all across the lawn, what can I do?





Please help! Please be as specific as you can be because I know so less.

For those that took the time to go through this super long post, thank you so much.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

Welcome to TLF!!!

We are going to need to know exactly what you have applied to your lawn and how much you applied and when also.

How often are you mowing?

Did you do an irrigation audit to see how much water you are actually putting out?

Sorry for all the questions but the more we know the more detailed advice we can give.


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

That looks VERY wet and I see some signs of fungus and or insect damage.
I'd start with addressing the water part of it - you want to put down 1-2" total a week of water, in 2-3 watering sessions. I'd probably put out some fungicide like Caravan G which also has insecticide in it at the curative rate, and plan on re-applying at 14-21 days.

I'd also get some soil testing done ASAP.


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## thelawnnoob (Jul 19, 2021)

Mightyquinn said:


> Welcome to TLF!!!
> 
> We are going to need to know exactly what you have applied to your lawn and how much you applied and when also.
> 
> ...


Sorry I didn't accurately measure all these values but still made sure I didn't go crazy.
Here's the fertilizer I applied. It was in a bag meant for 5000 sq feet but I made sure there I didn't put it all down - roughly made sure I was using only 4/5th of the bag.



Currently I mow at 1-inch and bag (later throw) the clippings.

I did not do an irrigation audit. I get 55PSI at my spiget with a flow rate of about 12-15 GPM. I have 2 orbit sprinklers (Orbit 58150 - 2Pack Zinc impact sprinkler on plastic base) that I move in order to get the water down which I move around to make sure I'm getting almost all of the lawn. I run them for about 20 minutes when I see the forecast showing highs of 90+F with no rain for a whole week, and reduce by around 5-10 min based on how much rain is expected. I do not run them if I see multiple showers in the week or if I see the temps dropping below 70 in the day (I read about it increasing chances of fungus and all).
I thought of getting an irrigation system and all that installed but I got quotes ranging from $4k to $6k which was about 2-3 times my budget so I'm getting by with setting alarms and moving the sprinklers around.


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## thelawnnoob (Jul 19, 2021)

SCGrassMan said:


> That looks VERY wet and I see some signs of fungus and or insect damage.
> I'd start with addressing the water part of it - you want to put down 1-2" total a week of water, in 2-3 watering sessions. I'd probably put out some fungicide like Caravan G which also has insecticide in it at the curative rate, and plan on re-applying at 14-21 days.
> 
> I'd also get some soil testing done ASAP.


Oh that's bad. The pictures under point 3 are taken today - after a whole night of rain. The others are yesterday after few minutes of light showers now and then. I did not run my water at all.
Just making sure I understand you properly, you are saying I should spread out the watering to counteract the build-up of fungus? Do you think giving a break during a hot week might help?
I had a look at Caravan G on Amazon (Syngenta Caravan G Insecticide Fungicide) looks expensive - costs $140. What are your thoughts about Scotts DiseaseEx Lawn Fungicide - it costs about $15? If Caravan is the go to/outright better product or lasts much longer than the 4 months written on Scotts, I'm willing to spend the extra money on it. Could you please explain what you mean by curative rate? How much should I be mixing and mixing with what? (Sorry in advance for the dumb questions)

While going through the reviews for the Caravan, I remembered another issue I have. Turns out I randomly get a bunch of mushrooms growing in the lawn. I make sure to pluck them out with their root when I find them. Any thoughts on how I deal with those?

About insect damage, I noticed stuff like small spiders, grasshoppers and "other usual lawn insects". Are these at fault or something specific like Bermuda mites? I bought a hose connectable diluting spray at home depot to get rid of the insects and because it needs at least of 1 hour dry time, I am waiting till the rain stops for a while and the soil becomes a bit dry too.


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## Erickson89 (May 3, 2020)

You're in GA like myself. It has been a wet, humid, and mild summer this year. I would not water for a couple of weeks; especially with all the rain we've gotten the last couple of days. Let that GA red clay dry out some and it will significantly help your lawn. As it stands now, your bermuda roots are water logged like crazy and the black algae growth on the surface will crowd out and kill off your bermuda. The mushrooms, black algae, etc. are all signs that your lawn is a) getting too much water b) not having enough drainage/ground is too compacted (thank you GA red clay) c) there's not enough sun light hitting the area

I'm battling the same issues with the algae growth and already used a pro plugger to get some better drainage in the yard in the problem areas. I back filled the holes with a mix of compost and sand. There's another thread on here that covers how to handle the black algae but it's basically use liquid copper fungicide which you can buy at HD or Lowe's.


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

Try and find a local supply place. Should be able to get a 50 lb bag for about $90 which would do your lawn 2-3 times over. Scotts Disease X might work, it would depend on what is actually going on there disease wise. Azoxystrobin is not 4 months, its 14-21 days. Not sure how they can get away with labeling that way.

I'm also not sure how much active ingredient (Azoxy) is in there vs. what would be called for, etc.


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## Austinite (Oct 4, 2018)

Welcome to TLF.

I wonder if it was Bermuda seed heads that were mistaken for weeds. When there is a lot in question and too much to sift through, it can be tough. But This can be fixed. I would do the following if it were my lawn, in this order:

1. Most important: Adjust watering schedule and get a soil moisture tester from amazon. Likely need to water less.
2. Get a soil test done.
3. Core Aerate (pickup cores) - even if it was sodded in October, it's not too soon.
4. Dethatch 
5. Spray fungicide such as Eagle 20EW or Cleary's. These cover lots of common funguses.
6. Wait 5 to 7 days and spray liquid copper. Repeat every 2 weeks for at least 3 applications.

That's a lot to do. But you can do it over time, doesn't all have to be done the same day.


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## thelawnnoob (Jul 19, 2021)

Erickson89 said:


> You're in GA like myself. It has been a wet, humid, and mild summer this year. I would not water for a couple of weeks; especially with all the rain we've gotten the last couple of days. Let that GA red clay dry out some and it will significantly help your lawn. As it stands now, your bermuda roots are water logged like crazy and the black algae growth on the surface will crowd out and kill off your bermuda. The mushrooms, black algae, etc. are all signs that your lawn is a) getting too much water b) not having enough drainage/ground is too compacted (thank you GA red clay) c) there's not enough sun light hitting the area
> 
> I'm battling the same issues with the algae growth and already used a pro plugger to get some better drainage in the yard in the problem areas. I back filled the holes with a mix of compost and sand. There's another thread on here that covers how to handle the black algae but it's basically use liquid copper fungicide which you can buy at HD or Lowe's.


I knew for sure seeing black instead of brown below the grass was bad. It seems like there is quite a bit of it all around the lawn, would you suggest getting a concentrate version of the fungicide and dilute it and use a sprayer to get it down? Also, would it be OK to be walking around in the lawn while doing this? I'm worried it might just keep transferring to parts of the lawn by small bits sticking to my shoes. 
Coming to the sprayer, would a 10$ pump sprayer do the job for these kind of things or do you think its time to spend a 100$ and get something like a battery powered sprayer?
I'm not sure how much more I can help with water draining, the lawns are both slopped away from the house with a dip near the lot border which acts like a passageway directing all the water way behind our lot.
About compaction, it's a new construction house and the builder told me it's going to take time to settle and its all "very loose" right now.
About sunlight, while the lot is backed to a forest, I see direct sunlight hitting the lawn from about 9-10AM till about 4PM in the backyard and from about 12-1PM to about 7PM in the frontyard.


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

I think the part people have missed so far is your mowing habits. Bermuda grass will grow as low as you want it to grow. The higher you let it get, the more brown will grow from underneath. So essentially, if you mowed it down to 1 inch, and keep mowing it down to 1 inch, you are never going to see green no matter how many chemicals you dump on your lawn.

For starters I would increase your mowing height to 1.25"-1.5". That will allow the green to actually come back into your grass. If you want to maintain at 1 inch, you need to cut it down lower than 1 inch, then let it come back up to 1 inch and maintain there.

The biggest problem you have IMO is your mowing habits. A lawn isn't a sprint it's more like a marathon. I f it were me personally I wouldn't do anything other then water less and let the green on your grass grow out by changing your mowing habits.

Once you've seen how the lawn looks after 2 mowings at the new mowing height, then you can begin addressing the other concerns. Most will probably take care of themselves once the grass can go through a proper photosynthesis process with green on top. Sometimes the simplest answer is the easiest imo.


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## thelawnnoob (Jul 19, 2021)

Austinite said:


> Welcome to TLF.
> 
> I wonder if it was Bermuda seed heads that were mistaken for weeds. When there is a lot in question and too much to sift through, it can be tough. But This can be fixed. I would do the following if it were my lawn, in this order:
> 
> ...


The soil test, would you suggest getting someone to do it or buy one of those soil test kits on Amazon? If the latter, can you please suggest a product?

I dont think core aeration is much of the issue from what I heard from the builder. He said because its a new construction and them having moved a lot of the earth around here, the soil will be "very loose" and will take about a year to settle down. How would I check if it is really required to get aeration done?

I did some dethacthing and the results made me shy away from it. Basically at some point, whole sod patches were coming out 

Well these looked a lot different to what I had earlier - which I was told were Bermuda seed heads too. They looked something like this (but with no seeds on the heads, just black dots)


I posted 2 different under the weed question both have leaves compared to a bermuda grass blade. Here's a close-up of them:


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## thelawnnoob (Jul 19, 2021)

Amoo316 said:


> I think the part people have missed so far is your mowing habits. Bermuda grass will grow as low as you want it to grow. The higher you let it get, the more brown will grow from underneath. So essentially, if you mowed it down to 1 inch, and keep mowing it down to 1 inch, you are never going to see green no matter how many chemicals you dump on your lawn.
> 
> For starters I would increase your mowing height to 1.25"-1.5". That will allow the green to actually come back into your grass. If you want to maintain at 1 inch, you need to cut it down lower than 1 inch, then let it come back up to 1 inch and maintain there.
> 
> ...


Well I would love it if it actually works like this. I will do this and see what happens. The reason I cut it low is because the grass is super thin and I wanted a dense grass packed lawn - which I read helps reduce weeds and all that stuff. Would you think it be useful to cut to 0.5 inch first if I intend to keep it at a 1 inch regular HOC?


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

Yes, it's called a height of cut reset or a scalp.

Essentially you knock the grass down below where you want to cut it to get rid of all the brown, then let it grow up to where you want to mow and maintain there. Essentially by taking it down to 1 inch over and over and over you're just mowing off all of the new green coming in everytime which in turn is leading to all of these other problems.

Reset your grass .25"-.5" below where you want to keep it. Give it a dose of fertilizer and let it get up to the height you want. Mow it at that height 2 or 3 times, THEN if you are still having major issues, that is the time to address them.


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

Wanted to add, if you look in all of your pictures, even the weed ids (something than can be addressed later) you can see all the baby green grass trying to come up which you're fixing to hack off again next time you go out there and 1" cut it.

I don't think you have near as many problems as you think or is being suggested. I could be completely out in left field as well, but I am positive you are scalping your lawn everytime you mow and not allowing it to grow properly. Fix that and go from there IMO.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

Amoo316 said:


> Wanted to add, if you look in all of your pictures, even the weed ids (something than can be addressed later) you can see all the baby green grass trying to come up which you're fixing to hack off again next time you go out there and 1" cut it.
> 
> I don't think you have near as many problems as you think or is being suggested. I could be completely out in left field as well, but I am positive you are scalping your lawn everytime you mow and not allowing it to grow properly. Fix that and go from there IMO.


+1 on everything @Amoo316 has said!!!

Raise your mower 1 notch and cut back on the watering until the rains let up some. Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get yourself a rain gauge so you know how much water you are getting with the rain storms.

If all you have done is fertilized that one time, I would go ahead and fertilize again with the same stuff. Use the whole bag this time as that little bit extra won't hurt anything. Keep fertilizing like that monthly, until the end of September.

Keep mowing once a week at a minimum, fertilizing and making sure you are getting enough water and it should start turning around in a few weeks.

Don't worry about all the other stuff right now, once the lawn is greening up and is healthier looking then you can re-evaluate and see what other issues there might be. Just relax and take it one step at a time and you will get there as it will take some time and patience.


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## thelawnnoob (Jul 19, 2021)

Mightyquinn said:


> Amoo316 said:
> 
> 
> > Wanted to add, if you look in all of your pictures, even the weed ids (something than can be addressed later) you can see all the baby green grass trying to come up which you're fixing to hack off again next time you go out there and 1" cut it.
> ...


Right now, I want the grass to survive the beating I gave it, so I'm not too particular on the 1 inch height at the moment. Simply put, if I intend on a HOC reset (in the long run), do I do it now or wait for the grass to get some life in it?

About the algae and fungus, will the grass be able to grow through them both?

P.S I feel much better, at least there's a direction I am going  . Huge thanks to everyone


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## thelawnnoob (Jul 19, 2021)

I forgot to mention, I bought this Sonkir Soil MS02 on Amazon. What is an ideal range to maintain soil moisture at? As Erickson89 mentioned, I probably have the Georgia red clay soil too meaning it should be holding in a lot of the moisture.

Side note, I am also looking into soil tests. Any recommendations on how to do it?


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## A3M0N (Mar 17, 2021)

thelawnnoob said:


> Side note, I am also looking into soil tests. Any recommendations on how to do it?


I'm new to the bermuda life, but I've followed these guys advice and my lawn is looking pretty good since I moved and took over this lawn. You're in good hands.

As for the soil test, the easiest route for me was too look up my local county extension office. That's University of Tennessee for me, but I'd imagine UGA has an agricultural program that offers soil testing.


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

thelawnnoob said:


> Right now, I want the grass to survive the beating I gave it, so I'm not too particular on the 1 inch height at the moment. Simply put, if I intend on a HOC reset (in the long run), do I do it now or wait for the grass to get some life in it?
> 
> About the algae and fungus, will the grass be able to grow through them both?
> 
> P.S I feel much better, at least there's a direction I am going  . Huge thanks to everyone


Bermuda is darn near impossible to kill. It's already clearly stressed. If it were my yard, I'm not sure I would risk a scalp down to .5 in it's current condition with how wet we are in GA right now. It would survive most likely, but it may take longer to come back from it. (I also think it will be more stressful on you and may cause you to panic more as it takes longer to recover). This could be revisited mid August, but I personally would just raise to 1.25 or 1.5 for the rest of the season.

In regards to the algae and fungus, I'm not saying you will not still have some problems once you get the grass going. What I am saying is there is no sense on doing anything right now before you get your grass in a healthy enough state to really assess what is going on.

Right now you're two biggest issues are too much water and mowing height. Those are also the two easiest to fix (well not the rain part, but your watering schedule). I am suggesting that a lot of these problems will lessen and some will fix themselves when the grass has the energy to fight back.

1 bag of fertilizer, raise your mower for now and let's see what you got. Once we have a better idea towards the end of August/September, then it's easier to treat any major problems before winter dormancy and help get you on a prevention/fertilization program headed into next growing season.

In regards to soil probes and all that jazz, I'm not a user myself. As was suggested, get a rain gauge from walmart/lowes/HD...etc. You want to be watering 1-2" per week total, preferably split into 2/3 applications.
Search youtube or this forum for "tuna can challenge". You'll find a bunch of videos that will help you figure out how much water you're putting down in different areas over that 20 min period you run your sprinkler. Yes you can go buy a bunch of little rain gauge things and stick them all over your yard, or you can use some cans.

RE: Soul Tests: Every county in GA that I am aware of has a county ag extension. Google to see where yours is located. Call those fine folks up and let them know you want to do a soil test, they'll tell you how to do it, have you bring them some dirt from 4" I believe, put it in a bag and send it off to one of the state UGA labs. $7-12 (I've not heard of more than that in GA at an extension office) and 7-10 days later you'll have your soil test results in email.

So game plan should be:
1. Get another bag of fertilizer (If you can catch a break in all this rain over the next 24 hours put it down so it will water itself in. If not wait until more rain is coming or it's safe to water again)
2. Increase your mowing height 0.25-0.5"
3. Get a Rain Gauge and do the tuna can challenge
4. Get with the County Ag Extension so they can get you on the path to a soil sample.

Do those things and you'll be surprised where you are at by mid August.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

I wouldn't worry too much about anything else right now. If you feed, water and mow bermuda regularly it will pretty much grow through anything. I wouldn't have gotten that soil moisture meter as I'm not too sure how accurate it is. You are better off getting a Soil Probe as you can test your soil moisture with it and it will help you get soil samples.

As for getting your soil tested, I would just wait until the season is over(around November) before doing that. Just focus on the basics right now and get your lawn going in the right direction and then you can come up with a game plan over the off season for next year.

Don't worry about doing a reset HOC right now, just raise your mower up one notch. If you are mowing at 1" right now, I take it is already on the lowest setting?

***EDIT***

I just saw that you have reel mower so make sure it's sharp and cutting paper. That may not be enough mower once your bermuda starts thickening up


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

I think @Mightyquinn and I were posting/editing at the same time, basically we both said the same things.

Like him I missed you having a reel mower. I read about your 1" cut with the Honda and was trying to figure out how you were going to scalp to .5" with said Honda. I would personally rotary mow through this for the next 30 days still, then look at doing another scalp and HOC reset if you really want to finish out the season with the reel. 1.25 or 1.5 on the Honda, "Throw Down" Monitor water, start winning!


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

Amoo316 said:


> I think @Mightyquinn and I were posting/editing at the same time, basically we both said the same things.
> 
> Like him I missed you having a reel mower. I read about your 1" cut with the Honda and was trying to figure out how you were going to scalp to .5" with said Honda. I would personally rotary mow through this for the next 30 days still, then look at doing another scalp and HOC reset if you really want to finish out the season with the reel. 1.25 or 1.5 on the Honda, "Throw Down" Monitor water, start winning!


+1

Use a rotary if you have one for the rest of the season on the first or second notch :thumbup:


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## Highlife159 (May 19, 2021)

You can order a solil test from UGA  here. They'll mail it to you with instructions and it's super easy. I got my results in a little over a week after I mailed it back to them.


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

Go read the Bermuda bible on here.

The plant needs irrigation to supplement whatever you aren't getting in rain fall. Most of the south looks like it's been getting plenty of rain; turn off or dial down the irrigation.


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## thelawnnoob (Jul 19, 2021)

Amoo316 said:


> thelawnnoob said:
> 
> 
> > Right now, I want the grass to survive the beating I gave it, so I'm not too particular on the 1 inch height at the moment. Simply put, if I intend on a HOC reset (in the long run), do I do it now or wait for the grass to get some life in it?
> ...


Thank you so much for all that info and the very clear game plan


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## thelawnnoob (Jul 19, 2021)

Movingshrub said:


> Go read the Bermuda bible on here.
> 
> The plant needs irrigation to supplement whatever you aren't getting in rain fall. Most of the south looks like it's been getting plenty of rain; turn off or dial down the irrigation.


Yes sir! Can confirm. Just got a soil moisture meter and it literally smacks the max reading (10) so hard that it bounces twice, every place I put it down. The grass seemed to be dry but I decided to wait till the meter came and I'm glad I did. @Amoo316 and @Mightyquinn big kudos for suggesting a soil moisture measuring device. I'm gonna check every time before I water from now on and will only water if its below 5 or 4 

To be honest, I've come here for help instead of going to reddit only because of having read @Mightyquinn's Bermuda bible. I try to do as written in there for the most part.... there's an overwhelming amount of information out there and the Bermuda Bible is a god-send (pun intended :lol: )


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## zgmt (9 mo ago)

@thelawnnoob out of curiosity, how is your lawn looking? Bermuda installed in February 22 in GA. Working through trying to have a structured game plan!


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## kalcormier (May 9, 2021)

@Amoo316 and @Mightyquinn gave great advice. Crawl before you walk. Before putting a bunch of stuff on your lawn, get your mowing and watering habits in place. Mowing more than once a week is one of the best things you can do. Of course feed and water it. Once you are mowing regularly and have watering dialed in, you can attack the weeds.

I have a bunch of products from when I first started that I'll probably never use again because I didnt know any better at the time.

The lawn is a long game. With the learning curve it may take 2 or 3 seasons to get it where you want.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

kalcormier said:
 

> @Amoo316 and @Mightyquinn gave great advice. Crawl before you walk. Before putting a bunch of stuff on your lawn, get your mowing and watering habits in place. Mowing more than once a week is one of the best things you can do. Of course feed and water it. Once you are mowing regularly and have watering dialed in, you can attack the weeds.
> 
> I have a bunch of products from when I first started that I'll probably never use again because I didnt know any better at the time.
> 
> The lawn is a long game. With the learning curve it may take 2 or 3 seasons to get it where you want.


You know this thread is about a year old


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## kalcormier (May 9, 2021)

Lol. Oops didn't notice. Someone commented to bring it up. Lmao!


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## thelawnnoob (Jul 19, 2021)

zgmt said:


> @thelawnnoob out of curiosity, how is your lawn looking? Bermuda installed in February 22 in GA. Working through trying to have a structured game plan!


It's looking much better but still a long way to go. Buying a soil water meter was a golden piece of advice I got here because the soil was sooooo saturated it was crazy - it took about 3 weeks of no water whatsoever to get the soil to go down from a saturated reading to a 7/10.

Right before last fall, I made the mistake of mowing after heavy rainfall, causing the mower to just fling everything back into the ground instead of putting it in the bag which led to a metric ton of thatch build up and in-turn made the lawn have bare spots with the heavy thatch - I rectified it by buying a de-thatcher and it took 8 hours to lift up most of the thatch. Filled up about 8 50 gallon bags with thatch. There's still a slight amount of thatch left but I thought it would be more helpful than harmful at this point.

There are some bare-spots but they are filling in gradually now, I could upload pictures later if you'd like.

Best thing I learnt is height don't matter, if it's a bad idea to cut grass you should never cut it. (The reason I made the mistake is because it rained for like 2 weeks straight, the grass was waaaay too high - I maintain at 1 inch and it was at 3-4 inches - and the garbage collector was scheduled the next day.)


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## thelawnnoob (Jul 19, 2021)

kalcormier said:


> @Amoo316 and @Mightyquinn gave great advice. Crawl before you walk. Before putting a bunch of stuff on your lawn, get your mowing and watering habits in place. Mowing more than once a week is one of the best things you can do. Of course feed and water it. Once you are mowing regularly and have watering dialed in, you can attack the weeds.
> 
> I have a bunch of products from when I first started that I'll probably never use again because I didnt know any better at the time.
> 
> The lawn is a long game. With the learning curve it may take 2 or 3 seasons to get it where you want.


After making many a mistake due to ignorance, I couldn't agree more. Not just Amoo316 and MQ, but this community as a whole is a treasure trove for people who want to take control of their lawn to make it better.
I'm 100% off lawn services after I've started learning from here.


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