# First ever soil test results



## Kenny_Login (Aug 17, 2018)

Hello all,

I originally sent some soil samples off to a lab, but if got shut down because of COVID-19. So, I sent another set off to Waypoint Analytical. I was pretty impressed with the turnaround. The samples were only delivered on Monday, and I got the results today (Wednesday).

After I sent the samples off, I put down Pre-emergent (Prodiame, 3lbs per 1000 sq ft), RGS (3oz per 1000 sq ft), Humic12 (60 oz per 1000 sq ft) and Milorganite (12lbs per 1000 sq ft).

I got my test results back, but I was hoping someone would be able to help explain and/or make suggestions how to proceed?









Cheers, much appreciated!


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Kenny:

Your soil pH is low and it needs lime. I would use dolomatic lime for your soil.

The soil CEC is low. Your soil wont hold nutrients as much. You will benefit from half rate applications twice a month.

The phosphorous and iron are high. You should avoid more biosolids (eg. milo) and any phosphorous.

Potassium is low. SOP is the ideal for this.

Mn is kinda low. If you are having color issues, then a micronutrients could help.

Check the soil remediation guide for products and more details.


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## Kenny_Login (Aug 17, 2018)

Cool, will do. Thanks @g-man!


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

All 4 soil reports are similar enough to be analyzed as one.
CEC is low. Low CEC soils don't have the capacity to hold much in the way of nutrients in reserve. Due to that, spoon feeding (smaller fertilizer applications applied more often) can give better results than once a month applications. 
That's a fine mess you find yourself in. Your phosphorous and Iron are sky high. Levels that are likely detrimental to healthy turf. Excess P can make nutrients much less available mostly through molecular tie up, especially the micros. Excess Iron will reduce availability of Mn. The excess levels of Fe and P combined with the lower levels of Mn indicate a high possibility fr Mn. deficiency. Cease and desist with the Milo. Do not apply any product containing P or Fe.
Potassium is low. This isn't unusual for low CEC soil, however there will be a chance for slight improvement if pH is raised although most of the K needs of the turf will need to come from regular K fertilizer applications.
Ph is low. Suggest you raise to 6-6.2ish to strike a balance between micro availability and increasing Mg and K and Ca levels. Apply approximately 50% of the recommended 50 lb rate for this year. Use a dolomitic lime to add Mg and Ca.
For every 1 unit of N you apply, apply .5 to .75 units of K. Ideally use a fertilizer that contains Zn, B and Mn in addition to the N and K. At 3200 sq feet, spraying might be your best option as micronutrient fertilizers are more prevalent, but finding one w/o iron might be a stretch.


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## SoilSecrets (Apr 12, 2019)

If you are spraying and need potassium and looking to improve your soil you might consider these two products from Simple Lawn Solutions.


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## Kenny_Login (Aug 17, 2018)

Thanks @Ridgerunner and @SoilSecrets, I'll look into fertilizers. I think I need to reread @Ridgerunner's comment a few more times to grasp it, in terms of fert. That being said, Waypoint included this recommended program (there's 4 of them, but they're essentially the same, in line with @Ridgerunner' comment that they're all so similar, they can be treated as one):



It didn't really make a lot of sense until reading all these comments. But it seems a little off compared to the "1 unit of N you apply, apply .5 to .75 units of K."

With regards to the Lime, would this product be appropriate?

https://www.domyown.com/austinville-limestone-lime-pellets-p-23109.html

Which brings me to another point, am I missing the fact that it doesn't give an N value on the report?


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

> But it seems a little off compared to the "1 unit of N you apply, apply .5 to .75 units of K."


Simple Answer:
Cool season turf will use approximately 0.5-0.75 lbs of Potassium (K) for every 1 Lb of N. Applying slightly more K than that can be beneficial for increasing soil reserves (realted to CEC), but applying large amounts that are in excess of grass usage on a low CEC soil can create two issues: 1. K and Mg are antagonistic nutrients. If there is more K than Mg, the turf can become deficient in Mg creating turf health issues. (you're pretty low in Mg to start with, so odds of issues with high K input are more likely) and 2. K that isn't used by the turf or adsorbed by the soil (low CEC soils can adsorb very little) will leach and be lost. So why is the lab recommendation for K 4X what the turf will use and beyond what the soil can adsorb? My guess is that they are simply default targeting an 'optimum" K value in the range of 200 ppm without accounting for the low CEC.

More in depth:
Applying more K than the turf can use can primarily result in either the K being adsorbed to the soil cation sites or in the K leaching down through the soil below the root zone. In low CEC soils (your soil 3-4, is low), there are too few cation sites to hold much in the way of the "primary" nutrients of Ca, Mg and K. CEC is pretty finite. Like a game of musical chairs, high CEC soils have a lot of chairs, so there is a great likelihood that each of the nutrients will get a seat in numbers sufficient to be available to supply the grass with its needs for the year, but in a low CEC soil, the number of chairs is very low and odds are one or more nutrients aren't going to get the number of seats needed to sufficiently supply the grass for the year. Ca, Mg, K, H+ and Na (the major players for cation sites)all play a game of Ro Sham Bo for a position. Ca is more likely to get a soil site than is Mg and Mg is more likely than K and K more likely than Na and Na more likely than H+ BUT H+, in larger quantities, beats out Ca (that's why the more acidic a soil, a large majority of cation sites are held by H+ atoms. One of the results of adding lime is to remove H+ and open the cation site to one of the other nutrients to hold.) In low Mg soils, like yours, Adding a dolomitic lime adds Mg and Ca, while removing H+, raising pH and opening cation sites. However, in the game of Ro Sham Bo, Ca and Mg are much more likely to occupy the cation site than is K. An attempt to flood the soil with large quantities of K in the hopes of getting K on more Cation sites is more likely to create imbalances detrimental to the turf or take sites away from Mg (which you want to increase) than it is to result in a balance of Ca, Mg and K on the Cation sites.

That lime is fine. It's 20% Ca and 11 % Mg, a 2:1 ratio, but you should be able to find the same dolomitic lime ratio of Ca:Mg at one of the big box stores for under $5 for a 40-50# bag.
N values change quickly in the soil and consequently many labs do not test it. N levels are nice to know but not really useful for calculating fertilizer applications.


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## Kenny_Login (Aug 17, 2018)

Thanks @Ridgerunner. The more I read it, the more sense it makes. Really appreciate you taking the time to write all that out.

Thanks for the tip on the lime too, found some lime at Lowes for about $3.58 per 40lb bag. I know what I'm doing this weekend!


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

That product at that price probably isn't a real fine grind, so go ahead and apply it at the full lab recommended rates. Might consider 25 lbs now and the other 25 in the Fall or even the full 50 now


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## Kenny_Login (Aug 17, 2018)

@Ridgerunner, how does this look (for the N and the K):

https://www.domyown.com/nova-green-22-16-veg-p-18987.html

If it is, how do I figure our how much I need to apply? Is there a guide somewhere I can follow?


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Other than spraying fungicides and herbicides, I don't have experience at spraying. My suggestion that you could consider spraying was for the purpose of applying micro-nutrients. Most (all?) liquid fertilizers have labels with application directions. There are also a variety of prill/granular fertilizers that contain micro nutrients, take a look at a Site One catalogue/or call.
Besides that DoMyOwn product and the Simple Solution products there are a number of others including this line of product https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=16124&p=247097&hilit=subvert#p247097 There are a lot of choices out there. For instance, See this company for granular (it's hit or miss if an individual outlet will sell to DIY, so call a few): https://www.nutrienagsolutions.com/find-location
Here's a thread you might find useful:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1969
Sorry that I can't be more informative on the topic.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

Be aware that liquid products will come nowhere near to making a dent in your deficiencies, they're mostly meant as supplemental applications. Think of liquid as somewhat of an intravenous procedure... you're shooting up essentially, but at much lower rates than if you were just laying the table with nutrients for the plant to uptake (which is essentially what feeding the soil does). In this particular product, for ex, the entire gallon contains 2.6# of N and 1.9#K. While this label seems to be aimed at a certain specialty market (cannabis?) the idea is the same no matter the product (foliar nitrogen is generally specified at around 1/10th to 1/4# of N per 1000, for reference). So use the products that the Remediation Guide lists as options for your soil deficiencies, and SUPPLEMENT with liquid as a quick shot in the arm if your turf is showing signs of these deficiencies. This has the added benefit of circumventing the imbalances that Ridgerunner was mentioning above in the soil, since you're feeding the plant directly vs letting the soil ecosystem determine the outcome.


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## Kenny_Login (Aug 17, 2018)

No worries @Ridgerunner, you've been extremely helpful.

Thank you @corneliani, for the clarification. I'll be taking care of the lime this weekend (hopefully) and I'll continue to research and try and find something that fits in with the recommendations.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

Kenny_Login said:


> No worries @Ridgerunner, you've been extremely helpful.
> 
> Thank you @corneliani, for the clarification. I'll be taking care of the lime this weekend (hopefully) and I'll continue to research and try and find something that fits in with the recommendations.


Here's the product I've used the past couple seasons. A 2.5-gal container runs approx $30-40 and at 6oz/1000 it should last you 2 years.

https://www.siteone.com/pdf/sdsPDF?skuId=12921&resourceId=22401


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## Kenny_Login (Aug 17, 2018)

Thanks @corneliani, I think I'll have to look at something else, as my iron is pretty high, but I'll keep that for when things are a little more under control. Thank you!


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

@Kenny_Login I didn't intend my comments to come off as alarmist. I didn't mean to send you off on a quest. Turf is extremely efficient at pulling the micro-nutrients it needs and my usual advice is for one not to get concerned about their levels unless they observe issues or signs of deficiency, i.e. really poor performance. Even then, I usually suggest performing a tissue test prior to chasing micros. That's my bottom line for you too. Don't waste a lot of time looking for a specific fertilizer other than one with the N and K your soil/turf needs. If you happen to find one that contains Mn, great, but for now, just look for one that has something close to a 2-0-1 NPK ratio. If at the end of the year you aren't happy with turf performance, then revisit considering adding micros.


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## Kenny_Login (Aug 17, 2018)

@Ridgerunner, ha, that's OK! I usually dive in and focus intently on stuff like this. I was all intent on finding *the* product. But, you're probably right. I don't think I'm going to get everything spot on this year. I should probably focus on the lime and 2-0-1 for now, and revisit maybe in the fall, to see where I'm at.

That being said, my lawn *is* definitely under performing this year. There's definite lack of growth which is allowing more weeds to crop up more than usual. But, not sure if that's down to the imbalance, or the weird winter/spring that we've had. It was so cold for so long, it took ages for the soil temps to come up. I'll do the lime, get some fert down in the ratio that you mention (spoon feeding) and see how things go.


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## Kenny_Login (Aug 17, 2018)

@Ridgerunner, as you mentioned, finding a fert without Iron is hard! Best I've found so far is this:

https://www.domyown.com/fertilome-classic-lawn-food-1608-with-slowrelease-nitrogen-p-1987.html

It has 0.1% Iron. Is that close enough to zero? :|


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

That would be fine, but the price is pretty steep. Give SiteOne https://www.siteone.com/en/store-directory/US-MA a call and see what they have w/o P between a 2-0-1 to 1-0-1 ratio. Their prices should be better lb/lb and most of their fertilizers use SOP for K. Also see if you can find a Feed and Seed store or a farm co-op or call a sod farm and ask them if they could suggest a place for what you are looking for. @g-man recommends a supplier with numerous outlet's around the U.S. but I can't find a link or name.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

For this stuff, the internet online shopping to your house is very $$$..

I will ping you in the MA folder to ask local folks for places to buy stuff.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Thanks @g-man . Kenny, That Ventura store looks good if it's not too far. Another option would to be a 50# bags of Urea 46-0-0 and SOP (0-0-50/0-0-52) and DIY in whatever ratio you need.


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## Kenny_Login (Aug 17, 2018)

Thanks again @g-man, I'll check out that thread and place. First look it might be a little far out from me. But, if it saves me having to pay over the odds online, then the trip might be worth it! And @Ridgerunner, I'll call SiteOne on Monday. Everything in the ratio I need seems to be unavailable, but I'll give them a call.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

I just logged in & selected a random Boston location (Waltham?) to see their in-stock inventory. This product may fill your needs of a straight N & K fertilizer - 50% coated for controlled release - for under $20/bag (maybe $30ish for non-account retail buyers?). You could get 4 apps out of this bag on your lawn (at a lower 3.9#/1000 rate) or 3 apps if you spread at 5#/1000. 
I'm only sharing this since you never know who you run across at these suppliers.. some are helpful to DIYers, others not so much. :roll:



Here's the label for reference: https://www.siteone.com/pdf/sdsPDF?skuId=349708&resourceId=19629

No micros but if you're choosing the straight macros route this may work.
Best of luck.


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## Kenny_Login (Aug 17, 2018)

Yeah, that would work @corneliani. I didn't think to look at other locations, other than the one next town over. Cheers!


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## Kenny_Login (Aug 17, 2018)

Hello all, back again to run my plan by those on this thread. So, at @Ridgerunner and @corneliani's suggestion, I picked up a 50lb bag of the 18-0-12 at the SiteOne in Waltham. By my calculations, I'll need more. But I wanted to just get started first.

So, I read on my Waypoint test, and another rule of thumb, to put down 4lbs of N this season. Is that right?

Based off of that, and and an NPK calculator (thank god, they are a blessing for people like me who are poor at maths). At 4lbs of N, and ~3200 sq ft, that would put me at 71lbs of the 18-0-12 Lesco fert.

Based off advice here. I was going to spoon-feed this fert in. I calculated that there's 17 weeks to the Autumn. I rounded it down to 16, to make it even. I was planning on laying down the fert every 2 weeks. So that makes 8 applications.

So, at 3200 sq ft, and 8 applications, it would work out to about 9lbs per application. I have 3 areas of grass that the 9lbs will be split between. 1300 sq ft (~3.6lbs), 824 sq ft (~2.28lbs) and 1160 sq ft (~3.2lbs). Which add up to about the 9lbs per application.

There's also the matter of ~160lbs of the dolomitic lime to put down as well.

Would someone tell me if this sounds about right, or sanity check me?


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

As far as your math goes, you're correct: 4# of Nitrogen using this product equates to approx 22# of product per 1000, or approx 70# of product over your 3,200 square feet (over the course of a season, of course). That being said, be aware that the 4#/year recommendation is just that, a recommendation for a standard fertilization plan. You may find that you need more or less based on factors such as length of growing season, level of maintenance, etc. Just keep that thought in the back of your mind: 4# is a baseline recommendation.

As for the 2-week fertilization intervals, i'll let others in the norther climates chime in but I'd question how feasible/necessary that is considering the seasonal timing of nitrogen. Generally you hold off on pushing growth in the hottest part of the year, so take that into account when timing your apps... and secondly this particular product has a 50% slow release aspect to it which does the 'spoon-feeding' for you (in a manner of speaking). Taking these 2 points into account, maybe front-loading these applications before the summer heat is a better approach. Or possibly utilizing an even gentler form of nitrogen (organics possibly?) over the hottest months before coming back to this product for the Sept app (?). Just brainstorming here but that's probably what i'd end up doing: bag rate now with either half-rate for the July app or an organic to tide me through August. Spoon feed the quick-release ferts such as AMS in the fall & again spring.
Just one point of view obviously.. i'm sure others will offer others.


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## Kenny_Login (Aug 17, 2018)

Those are fair points, and make sense. Also, I was doing those calculations without taking into account the weather, i.e. possibly not being able to every app.

So, while I wait to see if there's more suggestions, I'll take your advice and recalculate to front load the apps, and do less over the hotter summer months. I'm at least glad my calculations were correct. I don't have any experience to go off yet, in terms of the 4lb rate, so I'll use that and adjust up/down at some point.

Much appreciated!


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