# Add-A-Zone Reliability?



## XLT_66 (Jul 17, 2018)

Hey there,

I'm having some issues in my Front Yard (Zone 1) where we're on the upper edge of GPM flow rate and I'm wanting to split the zone into two.

Pulling wire from this area all the way around the house for the valve is a chore I'm really not wanting to do...mainly because of how hard I've been working to get the trenches cleaned up after the initial install last year.

Does anyone have any info on the Add-A-Zone product? It solves my issue but I'm concerned about long-term reliability.

https://static1.squarespace.com/sta...349671d/1500414065143/AddAZone+SalesSheet.pdf

Thoughts?


----------



## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

If you wanted to try a high risk variation, tie on two wires to the existing wire, and pull it back through the soil.

Me personally though, I have all the valves by the controller and run a dedicated line for each. If you hand trench with a square shovel you'd just be making a slit, and it will heal up pretty quick.


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

@XLT_66 another option to add a zone to an existing zone is to use an indexing valve. The indexing valve has an internal switching that will switch from zone to zone. This will save you having to add the wire.

https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/k-rain-4000-series-4-outlet-indexing-valve


----------



## jdc_lawnguy (Oct 30, 2018)

Third option would be to go to low flow heads like the Hunter MP Rotator. If you change over every head in the zone it will reduce the overall consumption. The zone will need to run longer, but the MP Rotator heads perform well.


----------



## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

Oh definitely go with MP rotators if you aren't already.


----------



## XLT_66 (Jul 17, 2018)

jdc_lawnguy said:


> Third option would be to go to low flow heads like the Hunter MP Rotator. If you change over every head in the zone it will reduce the overall consumption. The zone will need to run longer, but the MP Rotator heads perform well.


The zone is already fully MP3000s in 90 and 180* patterns. The problem is that usage at 40-45psi is over 15 gpm per Hunter's tables. We turned the water pressure on the main line up to about 75-78 psi (Hose bib shows sustained 50psi water pressure with zone running), which helped some to get the heads to rise better but I'm still seeing slow or no rotating at the head as compared to zones with fewer heads.

In the end, I also think splitting into two zones will allow me to switch to MP2000s in a couple of places to fine tune the system.


----------



## XLT_66 (Jul 17, 2018)

g-man said:


> @XLT_66 another option to add a zone to an existing zone is to use an indexing valve. The indexing valve has an internal switching that will switch from zone to zone. This will save you having to add the wire.
> 
> https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/k-rain-4000-series-4-outlet-indexing-valve


Can you explain a bit further? Does it index between outputs at a set interval or flow rate? Let's say I have the zone running for 30 minutes...is there a way to control the indexing?


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

The way I understand they work is by an internal cam (I have no experience with these). When you turn the valve on via the controller, it will run zone A for your amount of time. When you turn the valve off it will switch inside this valve to Zone B. Then via the controller you turn that same valve on again for the X amount of time you want for Zone B. They could index to 2, 4 or 6 zones (base on what you buy).

Here is more info and youtube has some videos too. It has a min flow requirement of 15gpm.
https://www.krain.com/6000-series-indexing-valves


----------

