# McLane Reel Mower Questions



## dfw_pilot

Do you have a McLane reel mower and have a question about working on it? Do you have something to share? Ask or share here.​


----------



## lagerman72

ooh, that's like mine...cept cleaner and less blades. Oh well, close enough. Lemme know if you have any questions or if I can help. Not an expert by any means but this will be my third year of using it and I've had the reel/bed knife off a few times to "clean up" nicks and bits. I Back lap it every 3 months during the summer and will try to help in any way I can.


----------



## MarkV

Sweet, I thought everyone here had greens mowers. I have a 10 blade model. I picked it up from a guy in Edmond last fall.

Have you put a roller on yours? I was thinking about doing a DIY roller. I can't come to spending $150 on a roller for a mower that I paid $100 for.


----------



## Redtenchu

MarkV said:


> Sweet, I thought everyone here had greens mowers. I have a 10 blade model. I picked it up from a guy in Edmond last fall.
> 
> Have you put a roller on yours? I was thinking about doing a DIY roller. I can't come to spending $150 on a roller for a mower that I paid $100 for.


My buddy made a roller for $30, I'll try to get the instructions with pictures posted before the weekend!


----------



## Redtenchu

lagerman72 said:


> ooh, that's like mine...cept cleaner and less blades. Oh well, close enough. Lemme know if you have any questions or if I can help. Not an expert by any means but this will be my third year of using it and I've had the reel/bed knife off a few times to "clean up" nicks and bits. I Back lap it every 3 months during the summer and will try to help in any way I can.


I need to help a friend backlap his Mclane! If you could show me what bolts need to be adjusted for the bedknife to reel and how to spin the reel, I would be thankful!


----------



## SGrabs33

Redtenchu said:


> MarkV said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet, I thought everyone here had greens mowers. I have a 10 blade model. I picked it up from a guy in Edmond last fall.
> 
> Have you put a roller on yours? I was thinking about doing a DIY roller. I can't come to spending $150 on a roller for a mower that I paid $100 for.
> 
> 
> 
> My buddy made a roller for $30, I'll try to get the instructions with pictures posted before the weekend!
Click to expand...

+1 - I would like to see that set up very much.


----------



## lagerman72

Redtenchu said:


> I need to help a friend backlap his Mclane! If you could show me what bolts need to be adjusted for the bedknife to reel and how to spin the reel, I would be thankful!


You bet, I can definitely get some pictures. It's not quite as easy as what I hear the greens mowers are but with a little patience it can be done.


MarkV said:


> Sweet, I thought everyone here had greens mowers. I have a 10 blade model. I picked it up from a guy in Edmond last fall.
> 
> Have you put a roller on yours? I was thinking about doing a DIY roller. I can't come to spending $150 on a roller for a mower that I paid $100 for.


I did buy the reel roller and love it. BUT, if you can get one made for $30, why not!!


----------



## lagerman72

Here is how I get the reel to spin backwards. Take off the chain guard, chain and front sprocket (allen key) and I just use a snug fit of tubing on the drive shaft clamped down onto drill (socket extension). You can use a hole saw bit with "teeth" cut into it onto the sprocket but I've never had much luck with the one I made staying on (see bottom pic).


To adjust there are three bolts on each side. The front two allow the reel to move up/down and the back one is the pivot point. I'd loosen all just a little bit and from there you can tap on the tab (you'll see it on the inside of the front bolt) to move reel slightly on each side. Keep slightly adjusting until it's even, tighten and start backlapping.



For reference, this is the 1 7/8" modified hole saw I tried to use when not taking the front sprocket off.


Hope that helps.


----------



## Iriasj2009

Lagerman covered it all. Awesome info man! I will be using my mcclane this year too on the outside and my "green" area. I like that setup you have! Thanks for the tip. I currently use the modified hole saw, but it took a bit of practice to get it to stay on. I will definitely look into the tubing. I love my mcclane except for adjusting the reel to bedknife which can be a PITA, until you get the hang of it. Now that I use a greensmower, I learned to really appreciate the manuveurability of it around tricky corners. I've had mine for 3 years (bought new) and engine works like new, and still cuts like new. This year I used it to help me scalp my lawn to bare dirt. I abused that thing, and all I had to do was adjust the reel to bedknife and it was cutting paper again. Oh and I did buy the roller for it. Totally worth it but if you can make your own, even better. However, the basket doesn't completely sit on the roller so it falls off of mine unless I put some bricks inside to hold it in place. Never had that problem with the caster wheels. But the extra weight helps it from bouncing around.


----------



## brettm1103

I'm new to the forum! Here is my Mclane 17' Greens mower. The only thing i dont like about the mower is how hard it is to adjust the reel to bedknife! So any tips would be appreciated!


This mower had my old yard looking great. 


We are now in a new home and this will be my second season working with the new lawn. Late last summer i raised the flower beds and spread the leftover sand throughout the yard. The builder did a horrible job at sodding and leveling the yard. Here is a current pic.


----------



## Redtenchu

If you didn't know, www.reelrollers.com makes high-quality reel rollers for all major homeowner model Reel mowers. They start at $150 + S&H and significantly increase the overall quality of cut you'll get from a reel mower. Unfortunately, this can often cost more than a used reel mower...

I wanted to share how a friend of mine made a front roller for his Mclane Reel mower for less than $30!

*Things you'll need.*
A spring loaded conveyor roller.
Grinder, Hacksaw or other metal cutting tool.
Power drill.
Hand tools.
Welder.
Paint or primer.

*Step 1:* Remove the front caster wheel bar 









*Step 2:* Remove the middle caster wheel support and reattach it to the end of the support rod. It's critical for this to be attached at the end of the rod for proper function of the HOC adjuster.









*Step 3:* Cut and remove this caster wheel support.









*Step 4:* Cut and move this caster wheel support being extra careful that you have the correct amount of space fro your roller to fit.









*Step 5:* You should have something like this. 

















*Step 6:* If needed, drill the caster wheel support holes out to match the roller pin. As you can see here, his didn't fit and needed a little more room to fit the hole.









*Optional - Step 6A:* Add a few tabs to ensure the roller only spins via the installed bearings of the roller.









*Step 7:* Reassemble and enjoy!


----------



## Redtenchu

brettm1103 said:


> I'm new to the forum! Here is my Mclane 17' Greens mower. The only thing i dont like about the mower is how hard it is to adjust the reel to bedknife! So any tips would be appreciated!


Welcome to the forum!

I've only seen a few pictures of a Mclane with a stock roller, very cool!!

I will be helping a friend sharpen and adjust his Mclane soon. If we figure out anything to make the adjustment easier I'll pass them along!


----------



## Redtenchu

The Mclane offers different cutting widths (17, 20 and 24?). Be certain to purchase a roller that fits correctly between the 2 supports. The final distance between the caster supports in Step 4 is critical for a proper fit!

The picture below shows how the roller is measured by the manufacturer. A 20BF (linked in the original post) is 20in Between Frame.


----------



## Redtenchu

If you don't have a Welder or access to one, you can call around to local car repair shops for help (for a small fee of course).

There is a local Muffler shop that I've used before for other welding needs.


----------



## Coach8

Pretty sweet! I may have to try this with my Mclane.


----------



## Redtenchu

Coach8 said:


> Pretty sweet! I may have to try this with my Mclane.


It would increase the resale value if you ever wanted to upgrade


----------



## SGrabs33

Redtenchu said:


> front roller for his Mclane Reel mower for less than $30!


Thanks for posting that walk through Red. The Mclane that I have is just one that I picked up in a deal with a edger(for $60). I was thinking about adding the DIY roller because the wheels on the mower are kind of shot and might hurt my chances of selling the mower when I decide to. I also don't have a roller on my TruCut and would like to see it's benefits even if it's on the Mclane.


----------



## MarkV

Just ordered my roller. Without lengthening the arms wouldn't this affect the HOC? The stock wheels (at least on mine) are 4" and this roller is 1.9".


----------



## Redtenchu

MarkV said:


> Just ordered my roller. Without lengthening the arms wouldn't this affect the HOC? The stock wheels (at least on mine) are 4" and this roller is 1.9".


Yes, it'll lower your HOC settings from factory specs. Zoro has a 2.5 Dia Roller for a few more $$ if you prefer.


----------



## MarkV

Just checking to make sure my thought process was correct.

I was worried about scalping with the drop in HOC but I'll probably have less scalping with the roller.

Lagerman72 if you will, what is the distance between the two holes on the arms and the size of your roller? Thanks.


----------



## lagerman72

MarkV said:


> Just checking to make sure my thought process was correct.
> 
> I was worried about scalping with the drop in HOC but I'll probably have less scalping with the roller.
> 
> Lagerman72 if you will, what is the distance between the two holes on the arms and the size of your roller? Thanks.


It's 4" between holes on the arms and a 2 1/2" diameter roller.


----------



## MarkV

lagerman72 said:


> It's 4" between holes on the arms and a 2 1/2" diameter roller.


Thanks.


----------



## MarkV

Oh snap! Look who's getting a roller on their McLane.

This guy right here. ------------------------------------------------------->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

I have a guy in the neighborhood that can do the welding for me. It will be a few days before I get it on probably.


----------



## Ware

Congrats! Having a front roller is nice.


----------



## Redtenchu

Congrats MarkV, you'll have to tell us how it went!


----------



## MarkV

Just need to paint it and make it pretty. A guy in my neighborhood has a welder on his work truck and come over and did all the hard work. Took a couple of hours from start to finish but there was some BS time in there.

I haven't mowed with it but it seems to function just fine. I think I need to make one of those tools to measure the bed knife height now since the new roller is a lot smaller than the stock wheels.

I think the roller was about $23.


----------



## Redtenchu

MarkV said:


> Just need to paint it and make it pretty. A guy in my neighborhood has a welder on his work truck and come over and did all the hard work. Took a couple of hours from start to finish but there was some BS time in there.
> 
> I haven't mowed with it but it seems to function just fine. I think I need to make one of those tools to measure the bed knife height now since the new roller is a lot smaller than the stock wheels.
> 
> I think the roller was about $23.


Congratulations!

I'm sure if he has a welder on his truck, he probably did an awesome job!


----------



## lagerman72

Looks great MarkV and a heck of a lot cheaper than buying one made for it!


----------



## Guest

lagerman72 said:


> Redtenchu said:
> 
> 
> 
> I need to help a friend backlap his Mclane! If you could show me what bolts need to be adjusted for the bedknife to reel and how to spin the reel, I would be thankful!
> 
> 
> 
> You bet, I can definitely get some pictures. It's not quite as easy as what I hear the greens mowers are but with a little patience it can be done.
> 
> 
> MarkV said:
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet, I thought everyone here had greens mowers. I have a 10 blade model. I picked it up from a guy in Edmond last fall.
> 
> Have you put a roller on yours? I was thinking about doing a DIY roller. I can't come to spending $150 on a roller for a mower that I paid $100 for.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I did buy the reel roller and love it. BUT, if you can get one made for $30, why not!!
Click to expand...

I made one for my beater McClane reel mower out of a bread roller and some roller skate bearings


----------



## Shuffinator

lagerman72 said:


> Here is how I get the reel to spin backwards. Take off the chain guard, chain and front sprocket (allen key) and I just use a snug fit of tubing on the drive shaft clamped down onto drill (socket extension). You can use a hole saw bit with "teeth" cut into it onto the sprocket but I've never had much luck with the one I made staying on (see bottom pic).
> 
> 
> To adjust there are three bolts on each side. The front two allow the reel to move up/down and the back one is the pivot point. I'd loosen all just a little bit and from there you can tap on the tab (you'll see it on the inside of the front bolt) to move reel slightly on each side. Keep slightly adjusting until it's even, tighten and start backlapping.
> 
> 
> 
> For reference, this is the 1 7/8" modified hole saw I tried to use when not taking the front sprocket off.
> 
> 
> Hope that helps.


Okay, so the picture with the height markings, I have a question. Yesterday I moved mine to 7/16 or whatever that one is. Did I change my HOC? Is that all I need to do is change that side and be done or do I need to do more? Because it seems as if it's not level on both sides now.


----------



## lagerman72

Shuffinator said:


> lagerman72 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, so the picture with the height markings, I have a question. Yesterday I moved mine to 7/16 or whatever that one is. Did I change my HOC? Is that all I need to do is change that side and be done or do I need to do more? Because it seems as if it's not level on both sides now.
Click to expand...

Yes that should be all you need as that one lever adjusts both sides by moving the roller in or out, which adjusts the HOC. I'm not sure how adjusting that would make things un-level as both pivot points on each side are the same.

There are 2 really accessible HOC settings with 4 positions on each. The second bolt down on the HOC adjusting lever is the pivot point (roller rod). There are holes on both sides of the mower that the roller rod goes through. Make sure both of those are in the same location.

A/B settings are for the front roller rod, the upper hole is A and the middle hole is B. To adjust for the C setting, you have to take the back assembly apart and adjust the rear rollers (something I haven't done).

Here is a what the manual has for HOC:


----------



## lagerman72

Just saw your other thread and the picture of your McLane. When I say roller in the above post, that will be the same as wheels on yours (switched my wheels out). I wonder if maybe one of your wheels is worn down more than the other, creating some unevenness on the cut.


----------



## SGrabs33

Can you post a close up of the uneveness in your cut? The below looks pretty smooth.



Shuffinator said:


> Today!


----------



## Shuffinator

any of y'all have any problems with a leaky gas cap?

I have to put a piece of towel around it and zip tie it do it doesn't drip on the grass...


----------



## Mightyquinn

Shuffinator said:


> any of y'all have any problems with a leaky gas cap?
> 
> I have to put a piece of towel around it and zip tie it do it doesn't drip on the grass...


Is there a rubber gasket on the inside of the cap?


----------



## Shuffinator

Mightyquinn said:


> Shuffinator said:
> 
> 
> 
> any of y'all have any problems with a leaky gas cap?
> 
> I have to put a piece of towel around it and zip tie it do it doesn't drip on the grass...
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a rubber gasket on the inside of the cap?
Click to expand...

I looked before and thought one was on there. I'll check again tomorrow


----------



## MarkV

I finally got around to measuring my HOC with the DIY roller. This was without adjusting the length of the arms holding the roller and a 1.9" diameter roller.

You best be ready to go low if you do this. I didn't test the A and B positions only the C.

Notch 4 gets you 3/4"
Notch 3 gets just over 5/8"
Notch 2 gets just under 5/8"
Notch 1 gets you 1/2"


----------



## Redtenchu

Thanks for checking!

It should be easy and cheap to get a larger diameter roller if needed, maybe another $25?


----------



## jayhawk

brettm1103 said:


> I'm new to the forum! Here is my Mclane 17' Greens mower. The only thing i dont like about the mower is how hard it is to adjust the reel to bedknife! So any tips would be appreciated!
> 
> 
> This mower had my old yard looking great.
> 
> 
> We are now in a new home and this will be my second season working with the new lawn. Late last summer i raised the flower beds and spread the leftover sand throughout the yard. The builder did a horrible job at sodding and leveling the yard. Here is a current pic.


Looks like a rare find - whole front end is diff, corkscrew roller to boot


----------



## Mightyquinn

jayhawk said:


> brettm1103 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm new to the forum! Here is my Mclane 17' Greens mower. The only thing i dont like about the mower is how hard it is to adjust the reel to bedknife! So any tips would be appreciated!
> 
> 
> This mower had my old yard looking great.
> 
> 
> We are now in a new home and this will be my second season working with the new lawn. Late last summer i raised the flower beds and spread the leftover sand throughout the yard. The builder did a horrible job at sodding and leveling the yard. Here is a current pic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like a rare find - whole front end is diff, corkscrew roller to boot
Click to expand...

Looks like a regular grooved roller to me. I had to zoom in to make sure


----------



## ATLawn

I'm looking to buy a used McLane of of Craigslist and saw a posting where a guy is selling a 10 blade self propelled for 75, but it needs some work:

"For sale I have my McLane 17" reel mower. I have not run it since August 2015. During that summer (and the problem may have started before then) I noticed the drive axle had shifted towards the chain guard and had rubbed its way through the guard. I thought I could fix it myself with help from McLane customer service but they were worthless. So...it never got fixed or reassembled. Both drive chains have been removed. Since I've gotten to where I don't care to use a reel mower on my hilly yard, I've decided against paying to have it fixed. I have all the parts including original grass catcher...just no desire to keep it. It worked well until the axle started shifting."

I'm looking to spend about $300 on a mclane reel. Wanted to get some opinions on what kind of money in repairs I'm looking at to fix something like this. Is purchasing this at $75 a worthy venture? Anyone have experience with repairs like this?


----------



## ATLawn

Question for anyone who gets a local shop to do their reel servicing and sharpening - What's a reasonable expectation for how much I'm going to have to pay for a general servicing of my McLane 10 blade? I'm looking for a basic engine servicing and for sharpening. From my incomplete research, I'm seeing $125 is around what it will cost. When you get your reel mower sharpened, do you just get it backlapped or fully "machine ground"? Having never owned a reel mower until now, I don't know what kind of service to look for and what questions to ask. Thanks!


----------



## Topcat

I had my Trucut serviced last fall before the season was done. They came picked it up. Did a grind on the reel and bed knife and dropped it off at my home for $115.00.


----------



## Redtenchu

ATLawn said:


> Question for anyone who gets a local shop to do their reel servicing and sharpening - What's a reasonable expectation for how much I'm going to have to pay for a general servicing of my McLane 10 blade? I'm looking for a basic engine servicing and for sharpening. From my incomplete research, I'm seeing $125 is around what it will cost. When you get your reel mower sharpened, do you just get it backlapped or fully "machine ground"? Having never owned a reel mower until now, I don't know what kind of service to look for and what questions to ask. Thanks!


I can't help with pricing, sorry.

I would pay for someone to do a spin or relief grind on my reel, this process requires thousands of $$ in tooling and will really improve your quality of cut.

I *wouldn't* pay for a backlap. Backlapping is something that'll take you 20 minutes to do on your own, without any special tooling... Backlapping can/should be done 1-2 times a year, or as needed.

I'll attempt an instructional backlapping video of how to backlap a Mclane, but it'll take me a few weeks.


----------



## MedozK

Redtenchu said:


> I *wouldn't* pay for a backlap. Backlapping is something that'll take you 20 minutes to do on your own, without any special tooling... Backlapping can/should be done 1-2 times a year, or as needed.
> 
> I'll attempt an instructional backlapping video of how to backlap a Mclane, but it'll take me a few weeks.


Would love to see this. I have been wanting to get my Mclane backlapped, but no one around here does it.


----------



## Sidney

I have always wondered how a roller actually works. If it's rolling the grass down BEFORE the mower cuts the grass, how does the mower cut the grass?


----------



## wardconnor

I pay $100. I am pretty sure he services the machine with oil and grease. That is what he told me anyway so I trust him. He grinds the reel with his high dollar machine. Its a guy who used to work for Jacobsen dealer for a lot of years who is now on his own. He told me that he was a true blue(orange) Jacobsen man until he went on his own. Now he prefers Toro because they are easier to work on, to service and maintain.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

I bought a McLane on Thursday and installed a roller on Saturday. Still figuring her out. Here is an album for the install of the front roller from ReelRollers. ReelRoller install https://imgur.com/a/vijMA


----------



## Redtenchu

Very nice, thanks for sharing!

All Day IPA!


----------



## Txmx583

Fastest way to add 1hp to a McLane reel mower!!!!



TLF Sticker lol 😂


----------



## Silverado

Has anyone had issues with the drive lever handle system wearing? The lever has worn horribly out of round at the pivot point, the bottom part of the connector bar has worn to what looks like a close-to-breaking point. I've sent an email to Mclane last week with no response. The mower is just over a year old...


----------



## Reel Low Dad

Silverado said:


> Has anyone had issues with the drive lever handle system wearing? The lever has worn horribly out of round at the pivot point, the bottom part of the connector bar has worn to what looks like a close-to-breaking point. I've sent an email to Mclane last week with no response. The mower is just over a year old...


Do you have a pic of the issue? I would be able to compare it to my early 2000's 20 inch.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

So I just finished a mow and had a hankering to measure my H.O.C. I have the mower set to the A slots for the lowest settings. I have the height adjustment set to the highest, which according to the manual gives me a H.O.C. of 1 1/16 inches. I was expecting something around there and not 3/4. I take it as a win.


----------



## Martin Mc

dfw_pilot said:


> Do you have a McLane reel mower and have a question about working on it? Do you have something to share? Ask or share here.​[/quote
> 
> I've been having a issue with my Mclane mower and the Engine Clutch Lever. As soon as I try and engage the clutch, the blades start spinning then suddenly stop as it comes in contact with the grass. Any tips on how to resolve this issue?


----------



## smcguinness

I'm looking for some specs for either the sprocket that fits over the blade axel or the diameter of the blade's axel. Any thoughts? While the manual has a nice diagram, I haven't been able to find any dimensions of either parts.

edit: Part Listing http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...=Walk Behind Lawnmower, Gas&brandName=MCLANE#


----------



## Reel Low Dad

smcguinness said:


> I'm looking for some specs for either the sprocket that fits over the blade axel or the diameter of the blade's axel. Any thoughts? While the manual has a nice diagram, I haven't been able to find any dimensions of either parts.
> 
> edit: Part Listing http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...=Walk Behind Lawnmower, Gas&brandName=MCLANE#


If you give me a bit I will take the cover off and measure the shaft diameter.

edit. With my ******* measurements it appears to be 5/8 or 11/16


----------



## ferociousllama

Hi everyone!

I'm new here I just moved and picked up a McLane 20" 7 blade mower. I bought it for $100 from a guy online. It didn't run well because the carb bolt holes were stripped so etc sealant was basically holding the carb on and after running for more than a few minutes it would leak and the mower would die.

I wanted a Honda engine anyway. I'm too cheap to spend the money on Honda so I got a predator 6.5hp Honda clone. It runs great and for $100 I'd be greedy to ask for more from it it.

Now that it runs well and mows I know it needs some maintenance. All the bearings are good but the chains are stretched so far I'm surprised it doesn't throw chains regularly.

Other than chains (I ordered them, they're on the way) I need to sharpen the blades because they are like the dull side of a butter knife.

I've watched many videos and it looks easy enough. I have just one problem. The reel is already adjusted as far down as it can be adjusted. It doesn't look like there's any adjustment to move the bedknife up. Is there another adjustment I'm not seeing?

What are my options? How can I sharpen the blades? Do I need a new reel/bedknife.

I figure it would take thousands of sharpenings for the blade to be ground down so far that it can't be adjusted to touch the bedknife. Has anyone seen this happen before?

Thanks in advance for your help!


----------



## ferociousllama

Hey again everyone!

I took the bedknife off the mower to get a closer look and found that it is completely worn out. It must have been a lot of sharpenings. I took a picture but I'm having trouble uploading it from my phone. I'm going to pick up a bar of 3/16 steel that matches the thickness of the. Edknife and weld it on top of what's left of the existing knife. It should make the bedknife able to easily contact the reel and have at least a few sharpenings. I figure I'll just weld on a new piece of steel when this one wears through or maybe I'll spring for a new reel and bedknife then.

I'll get pictures up when I can get to my computer.


----------



## MasterMech

ferociousllama said:


> Hey again everyone!
> 
> I took the bedknife off the mower to get a closer look and found that it is completely worn out. It must have been a lot of sharpenings. I took a picture but I'm having trouble uploading it from my phone. I'm going to pick up a bar of 3/16 steel that matches the thickness of the. Edknife and weld it on top of what's left of the existing knife. It should make the bedknife able to easily contact the reel and have at least a few sharpenings. I figure I'll just weld on a new piece of steel when this one wears through or maybe I'll spring for a new reel and bedknife then.
> 
> I'll get pictures up when I can get to my computer.


How much is a proper bedknife for this machine? Shimming a worn out knife will probably not work out as well as you'd like and it doesn't seem worthwhile when you consider the time required to make the shim. Careful welding on a bedknife too. The heat and warpage will likely ruin an already worn-out part.

If your bedknife is worn that badly, I doubt the reel has much, if any, life left in it either.

Wish I could offer you more help.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

Where can you get replacement reels and bed knives for these things? My Google fu is apparently weak lol.

I picked up a 20 in, battery powered, used McLane off CL for cheap and did some work on it. Fixed up the bed knife and sharpened the reel as best I could, greased, new battery, but it just didn't cut well enough. Shredded tips that brown the blades.

I think the reel and knife need replaced.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

Sears has most of the parts for the gas powered units. The bedknife is around $175 the last I checked and the reel is around $300 I think. I have never seen a battery powered unit so no idea on that.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

Fistertondeluxe said:


> Sears has most of the parts for the gas powered units. The bedknife is around $175 the last I checked and the reel is around $300 I think. I have never seen a battery powered unit so no idea on that.


Thanks! I saw those on my Google search but thought they might be old posts given the price. Uuuuuggghh. I really don't want to sink that much more into it. Rather put it to a triplex!!!


----------



## J_nick

Fistertondeluxe said:


> Sears has most of the parts for the gas powered units. The bedknife is around $175 the last I checked and the reel is around $300 I think. I have never seen a battery powered unit so no idea on that.


 :shock: I can understand why the reel is $300. That is comparable to my John Deere 220B and H20 TruCut. $175 for a bed knife is crazy, The bedknives for my machines are around $30.

Welding on a strip of metal would worry me. I've been welding for 15+ years from stick to TIG, not professionally, and I would cation away from welding something that needs .001" clearance with something that's spinning as fast as a reel does. Plus the bedknives are normally made out of a softer metal than the reels. They are made to wear out before the reel does.


----------



## scarlso2

So I really wanted to find a way to backlap without fitting something to the sprocket or removing it. Here's what I came up with. Maybe I spent more time than it'll save since I'll probably only backlap once a season, but I like tinkering and it works great!

I drilled a 5/16" hole in the cylindrical shaft (dead center) 1/2" deep, used a 3/8" left hand tap to thread the hole, and used a 3/8" x 1/2" bolt. Left hand so it'll tighten as I'm backlapping. Seems like it works great, the cover fits on fine.. I just backlapped and I'm happy with it.


----------



## Spammage

:thumbup: Very nice!


----------



## J_nick

+1 I think it was time well spent. It will save a lot more time than it took to do the modification. Who has a set of left handed taps laying around, did you buy it just for this purpose?


----------



## scarlso2

Yeah I got the tap and the bolt just for this... The bolt was crazy expensive... $8! The tap was $10. I got pretty set on making something work so I ignored the cost


----------



## J_nick

scarlso2 said:


> Yeah I got the tap and the bolt just for this... The bolt was crazy expensive... $8! The tap was $10. I got pretty set on making something work so* I ignored the cost*


Frustration can easily cost more than $18. Money well spent and should last the life of the mower.


----------



## Iriasj2009

J_nick said:


> scarlso2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I got the tap and the bolt just for this... The bolt was crazy expensive... $8! The tap was $10. I got pretty set on making something work so* I ignored the cost*
> 
> 
> 
> Frustration can easily cost more than $18. Money well spent and should last the life of the mower.
Click to expand...

 :thumbup:


----------



## aug0211

Hey all,

Just starting to poke around in researching reel mowers for next year. I have a lot of research left to do, but was shocked to see some of the prices you guys are putting in here.

I do not want to go below 20" cut width (more would be great) and for HOC needs to be on the higher end for me (cool season guy).

I'm comfortable putting a roller bar on myself, but not looking to completely rebuild something and/or pour hours in on a regular basis to get/keep it running.

Is a 20" McClane in good shape for under $500 unreasonable? I see you guys talking about $100-$200 and that's blowing my mind from what I've seen so far.

Thanks for continuing my education.


----------



## high leverage

aug0211 said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Just starting to poke around in researching reel mowers for next year. I have a lot of research left to do, but was shocked to see some of the prices you guys are putting in here.
> 
> I do not want to go below 20" cut width (more would be great) and for HOC needs to be on the higher end for me (cool season guy).
> 
> I'm comfortable putting a roller bar on myself, but not looking to completely rebuild something and/or pour hours in on a regular basis to get/keep it running.
> 
> Is a 20" McClane in good shape for under $500 unreasonable? I see you guys talking about $100-$200 and that's blowing my mind from what I've seen so far.
> 
> Thanks for continuing my education.


I would say a 20" or 25" with 5 hp Honda anywhere $400 to $750 depending on hours and condition and/or with or without roller. Old Briggs and Stratton powered units can be had for almost nothing. I'd skip anything with a Briggs


----------



## aug0211

Thanks, that's helpful. I'll keep an eye out.

How concerned should I be about maintenance/upkeep?

I'm not a mechanic, though I'm roughly handy. More than anything, I'd like to keep the time I spend in the lawn focused on the lawn, rather than splitting it between the lawn and mower. The purpose of the reel for me is to improve the lawn, I'm not into the reel mower just for the sake of the reel mower, if that makes any sense.

Am I a good candidate for a reel, or is every reel going to require a ton of maintenance and fiddling?


----------



## Spammage

aug0211 said:


> Am I a good candidate for a reel, or is every reel going to require a ton of maintenance and fiddling?


I originally thought the same thing, but the tinkering is done with the intention of making the lawn better. Mowing with a rotary is something you have to do, but cutting with a reel is something you look forward to. Once you get the reel, you will understand the obsession is real.


----------



## aug0211

Spammage said:


> aug0211 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Am I a good candidate for a reel, or is every reel going to require a ton of maintenance and fiddling?
> 
> 
> 
> I originally thought the same thing, but the tinkering is done with the intention of making the lawn better. Mowing with a rotary is something you have to do, but cutting with a reel is something you look forward to. Once you get the reel, you will understand the obsession is real.
Click to expand...

Haha - fair enough. I should probably know what I'm getting in to before I finalize the decision, then.

Am I looking at an hour a week? 4 hours/week? Hour a month? What sort of time investment should I expect?

I understand/assume the time investment is quite variable based on the condition of the machine I end up with, as well as how much I want to tinker - but what's a fair average to expect?

For benchmarking, I change or sharpen my rotary blades once a year (new practice for me), and hose off the mower deck once a year. Not a lot of time goes into machine maintenance for me.


----------



## J_nick

I spend around an hour a month for maintenance on mine.


----------



## Spammage

J_nick said:


> I spend around an hour a month for maintenance on mine.


+1

edit - but I will sometimes do more if I want an excuse to get out of the house or some strange task request from the wife. 🤣


----------



## aug0211

Perfect - that doesn't scare me away at all. I hate to pollute the thread, because the subject is clearly for McLane questions - but has anyone come across good side by side comparisons between McLane/Cali/TruCuts? I've read about everything I can find on the forum so far and have seen some great stuff, but haven't come across a consolidated thread or post/article/etc. comparing the "higher HOC" powered reel mowers. I don't want to over complicate things, but I'd also love to have something to read up and study over the winter


----------



## Reelrollers

The biggest challenge with using a conveyor roller is:
-their bearings are not rubber sealed to keep dust and moisture out leading to failure
-your height will be different 
-conveyor rollers are also very light and keeping the mower grounded is a challenge.


----------



## gijoe4500

Is there a trick to setting reel to bedknife height perfectly on these? I don't have a high precision machinist hammer. :lol:


----------



## gardencityboy

Have you guys watched the below video on back lapping Mclane with a duck tape and a drill?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqJK1FDXrP4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMSl2I08nnk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XoG5af_lT2s

I have tried it before and it works !!! Was able to back lap my 10 blade Mclane


----------



## Redtenchu

gijoe4500 said:


> Is there a trick to setting reel to bedknife height perfectly on these? I don't have a high precision machinist hammer. :lol:


Practice!!

I've only backlapped a Mclane Reel a few times, but it seemed easier to adjust the R2BK while the reel is spinning in reverse for a backlap. You can hear the contact and adjust as needed.


----------



## gijoe4500

gardencityboy said:


> Have you guys watched the below video on back lapping Mclane with a duck tape and a drill?
> 
> I have tried it before and it works !!! Was able to back lap my 10 blade Mclane


I have watched it a couple times. Am hoping to use that exact method if I get some downtime and a chance to do it this weekend.


----------



## gijoe4500

Redtenchu said:


> gijoe4500 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is there a trick to setting reel to bedknife height perfectly on these? I don't have a high precision machinist hammer. :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Practice!!
> 
> I've only backlapped a Mclane Reel a few times, but it seemed easier to adjust the R2BK while the reel is spinning in reverse for a backlap. You can hear the contact and adjust as needed.
Click to expand...

Good to know. Listen for contact and the slightly back it off under the sound JUST goes away?


----------



## Redtenchu

gijoe4500 said:


> Good to know. Listen for contact and the slightly back it off under the sound JUST goes away?


That will depend on your mowers condition. The very old Mclane mower I was backlapping required some contact to make a clean cut. You should try to go with no contact (no sound) first, then adjust as needed to get a clean cut.


----------



## g-man

@gardencityboy those are nice videos. I think we should invite the guy to TLF.

@Redtenchu what do you think?


----------



## Redtenchu

g-man said:


> Redtenchu what do you think?


I'm not sure, but he is a very good looking man. He will most likely just post in the meme thread and make fun of @dfw_pilot.


----------



## dfw_pilot

LOL, no doubt at all!!


----------



## smcguinness

My clutch belt has given out and has several cracks causing it not to drive my reel. I'm trying to find a replacement, but I'm having a tough time finding the right one. There seems to be a 1060 drive belt for the mclane edger and according to the manual the part is 1060B.

Does anyone know the correct specs of the 1060B? I've gotten a 1/2 x 19, but I just put it on and it seems a bit tight. Also, where'd you get it from? I got mine from https://www.mowerparts4less.com, but can't find a specific part calling out 1060B.


----------



## T-Roy Jenkins

smcguinness said:


> My clutch belt has given out and has several cracks causing it not to drive my reel. I'm trying to find a replacement, but I'm having a tough time finding the right one. There seems to be a 1060 drive belt for the mclane edger and according to the manual the part is 1060B.
> 
> Does anyone know the correct specs of the 1060B? I've gotten a 1/2 x 19, but I just put it on and it seems a bit tight. Also, where'd you get it from? I got mine from https://www.mowerparts4less.com, but can't find a specific part calling out 1060B.


I ordered a couple last year from Amazon. I think this is it: A17.5/4L195


----------



## Redtenchu

1/2X19.5 is the size my brother purchased and it's a perfect fit for him.

REEL MOWER DRIVE BELT Replacement (19 1/2" LENGTH) 4L195 Fits Mclane

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074G4CJTL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uLlVAbXY52QT0


----------



## Reel Low Dad

I bought one on amazon last year and the specs on the listing said it was 19.5 but the model was 1060. I was able to get it on but the fit was so tight that the reel was always engaged and I could not pull the lever. I couldn't remove the belt without cutting it off. Thankfully my old belt was fine I just wanted to replace it. I lined up the new with the old and the new was just a bit smaller. I would avoid the amazon listing since most reviews are mixed.
Here is what I bought that was too small. McLane 1060 Reel Mower 19-1/2-Inch x 1/2-Inch Clutch Belt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IYE7PK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0LlVAbCKPZ3NJ


----------



## Kballen11

I bought a used McLane 20 inch last summer and it seems to cut great. It appears to be in great shape but I'm thinking it could likely use a backlapping. I am in the OKC area. Does anyone know of a place I could take it or is this something I should try to conquer on my own? Any thoughts or opinions are greatly appreciated.


----------



## gijoe4500

Kballen11 said:


> I bought a used McLane 20 inch last summer and it seems to cut great. It appears to be in great shape but I'm thinking it could likely use a backlapping. I am in the OKC area. Does anyone know of a place I could take it or is this something I should try to conquer on my own? Any thoughts or opinions are greatly appreciated.


Backlapping is definitely something you should do on your own. There are some videos that are posted up in this thread, just a day or two ago where Redtenchu shows how to backlap a McLane.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=101&start=60#p39808


----------



## Reel Low Dad

I noticed this kit on Mclane's website today and fired off an email to see about a getting the compete instructions to see how it works. Looks like it adds a couple sprockets and longer chain. Runs about $90 which could be considered pricey with what some of us payed for our mowers. Interested to see if I hear back.

https://www.mclaneedgers.com/product/20-backlapping-kit-after-1990-2/


----------



## Ware

gijoe4500 said:


> ...Backlapping is definitely something you should do on your own.


+1, as long as the reel and bedknife are in good shape. Backlapping is used to maintain the edge, but isn't a substitute for sharpening (grinding) when needed. I don't live in OKC, but I would try Pro Power Equipment. That's who I bought my Tru-Cut from.


----------



## gijoe4500

Fistertondeluxe said:



> I noticed this kit on Mclane's website today and fired off an email to see about a getting the compete instructions to see how it works. Looks like it adds a couple sprockets and longer chain. Runs about $90 which could be considered pricey with what some of us payed for our mowers. Interested to see if I hear back.
> 
> https://www.mclaneedgers.com/product/20-backlapping-kit-after-1990-2/


I don't know what all that kit does, but it is unneeded. You can duct tape a cordless drill to the reel sprocket to turn it backwards, then a small container of lapping compound and a cheap chip brush to apply it is all you need.


----------



## Redtenchu

Pinhigh Homeowners Reel Sharpening Starter Kit would be great for a Mclane. Each Kit includes 1lb 80 grit Pinhigh, 1lb 120 grit Pinhigh, and a long handled application brush. You'll just need some simple tools, a good drill w/ socket bit and some duct tape.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

Redtenchu said:


> Pinhigh Homeowners Reel Sharpening Starter Kit would be great for a Mclane. Each Kit includes 1lb 80 grit Pinhigh, 1lb 120 grit Pinhigh, and a long handled application brush. You'll just need some simple tools, a good drill w/ socket bit and some duct tape.


I didn't realize they made a smaller package now with 2 grit levels. Just ordered some. Thanks!


----------



## Kballen11

Ware said:


> gijoe4500 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...Backlapping is definitely something you should do on your own.
> 
> 
> 
> +1, as long as the reel and bedknife are in good shape. Backlapping is used to maintain the edge, but isn't a substitute for sharpening (grinding) when needed. I don't live in OKC, but I would try Pro Power Equipment. That's who I bought my Tru-Cut from.
Click to expand...

So ************ can be accomplished in my garage, but probably not grinding? I am interested in having it sharpened but probably need to do some backlapping as well. Again, I appreciate the comments so much!


----------



## Ware

Kballen11 said:


> So backlapping can be accomplished in my garage, but probably not grinding?


Correct. Think of grinding as establishing the edge and backlapping as keeping it fresh..


----------



## Greendoc

Fistertondeluxe said:


> I noticed this kit on Mclane's website today and fired off an email to see about a getting the compete instructions to see how it works. Looks like it adds a couple sprockets and longer chain. Runs about $90 which could be considered pricey with what some of us payed for our mowers. Interested to see if I hear back.
> 
> https://www.mclaneedgers.com/product/20-backlapping-kit-after-1990-2/


I would not use that kit. It spins the reel way too fast. My backlap adapter for McLane mowers involves a 5/8" rod coupler nut bored out to fit over the reel shaft, a set screw tapped in and a socket to fit the nut. I use a 1/2 socket adapter chucked into the drill. Which is a low speed Milwaukee 1/2" drill.


----------



## ATLawn

HOC question for the McLane experts here:

Out of the 3 A, B, and C settings, I'm on the setting where the lowest setting is 7/8" and the highest is somewhere around 1 3/16" maybe (???). I wanna say I'm on setting B. ANYWAYS. If you've used a mclane you know there's the 4 HOC levels, and then there's the SCALP level, but the product manual on the mclane website doesnt specifically list the HOC of the "scalp" mode for each A, B, or C setting.

Anybody know the specific measurement for this elusive Scalp setting???


----------



## Reel Low Dad

ATLawn said:


> HOC question for the McLane experts here:
> 
> Out of the 3 A, B, and C settings, I'm on the setting where the lowest setting is 7/8" and the highest is somewhere around 1 3/8" maybe (???). I wanna say I'm on setting B. ANYWAYS. If you've used a mclane you know there's the 4 HOC levels, and then there's the SCALP level, but the product manual on the mclane website doesnt specifically list the HOC of the "scalp" mode for each A, B, or C setting.
> 
> Anybody know the specific measurement for this elusive Scalp setting???


I have Roller installed in spot A and and the height adjust in hole A as well. I think my back wheels are in medium. Here is the section on HOC settings from the manual for my 20-3.5 RP10 model.


----------



## Redtenchu

Greendoc said:


> My backlap adapter for McLane mowers involves a 5/8" rod coupler nut bored out to fit over the reel shaft, a set screw tapped in and a socket to fit the nut. I use a 1/2 socket adapter chucked into the drill. Which is a low speed Milwaukee 1/2" drill.


Can you share a picture of this backlap adapter?


----------



## ATLawn

> I have Roller installed in spot A and and the height adjust in hole A as well. I think my back wheels are in medium. Here is the section on HOC settings from the manual for my 20-3.5 RP10 model.


That's the exact table I'm referencing. The lowest setting on A is 1/4", but directly to the left of that it says "Scalping". There are 4 notches for each A,B,&C setting, but on each setting there's the option to go to the even lower "5th" notch. This must be the Scalping notch, and I'm wondering what HOC exactly the scalp notch represents at each A,B,&C interval.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

ATLawn said:


> That's the exact table I'm referencing. The lowest setting on A is 1/4", but directly to the left of that it says "Scalping". There are 4 notches for each A,B,&C setting, but on each setting there's the option to go to the even lower "5th" notch. This must be the Scalping notch, and I'm wondering what HOC exactly the scalp notch represents at each A,B,&C interval.


I always assumed that notch 1 was the scalping notch. I never tried to take the height adjuster past notch 1. I may give that a try tonight.


----------



## ATLawn

Let me know what you think/find out!


----------



## Reel Low Dad

ATLawn said:


> Let me know what you think/find out!


Here we go. First pic is of mine in notch 1. No way to move it further.



Here is the best shot I could get of the bed knife and it's height.


----------



## Greendoc

Redtenchu said:


> Greendoc said:
> 
> 
> 
> My backlap adapter for McLane mowers involves a 5/8" rod coupler nut bored out to fit over the reel shaft, a set screw tapped in and a socket to fit the nut. I use a 1/2 socket adapter chucked into the drill. Which is a low speed Milwaukee 1/2" drill.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you share a picture of this backlap adapter?
Click to expand...

Sure. I am lapping some mowers this weekend. Best pictures are of how it fits onto the reel shaft. I am a wannabe machinist or else a short, skinny Richard Dean Anderson.


----------



## Redtenchu

Greendoc said:


> Sure. I am lapping some mowers this weekend. Best pictures are of how it fits onto the reel shaft. I am a wannabe machinist or else a short, skinny Richard Dean Anderson.


lol, thanks!


----------



## ATLawn

Fistertondeluxe said:


> ATLawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know what you think/find out!
> 
> 
> 
> Here we go. First pic is of mine in notch 1. No way to move it further.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the best shot I could get of the bed knife and it's height.
Click to expand...

This is what I meant


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@ATLawn I think that spot is to allow you to get the height adjuster off of the "pin" when replacing parts. I remember having to move to that when when installing my front roller since there is that lip on the pin. That would make notch 1 the scalping height.


----------



## g-man

@Greendoc (or anyone else), have you ever considered hard treating a new reel to prolong the life?


----------



## Greendoc

Not something I would attempt at home. That requires an expert metallurgist and temperature controlled forges. Besides, that is why I spend the money on a Toro reel and bedknife. They figured it out for me.


----------



## g-man

Yes, not something to do at home. There are shops that would do it. Since the price of the McLane reel has gone up, it might be something someone could do.


----------



## Greendoc

Sure, however for the trouble, retirees from the golf courses can be had for reasonable prices. A GM 100 or JD 220 is $10,000 new but as a retiree, those can easily be had for the same price as a new McLane. Then adjustments can be made on those mowers with a wrench rather than a hammer. Unless you have cracked the bedbar, a bedknife replacement is not no $200 either.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

I love my McLane but when the time comes to replace the reel I will hopefully have a greens mower on the way.


----------



## Adrian82

So I am going to let my parents use my McLane this summer. I went purchase the sprocket to fix the automatic drive. Apparently, McLane doubled the price of all their parts last summer. The sprocket cost between $65-75. I seriously thought it was going to be some $20 plastic part. The new part is metal as compared to plastic.

I might be on the search for a used McLane to pilfer parts.


----------



## Greendoc

@Redtenchu Just got back in after backlapping and adjusting mowers for some people. No need for a relief grind because I did that last year.
The adapter consists of a 5/8 coupling nut with the side that fits on the shaft ground out just enough to slide on with minimal play. A hole near the end is tapped to accept a 1/4-20 set screw.








 
The driver for the coupler is a 11/8" socket and the standard 1/2" drill adapter. The drill is a 1/2" Milwaukee Magnum. Over 10 years old but it has been backlapping mowers all this time, among other things.


----------



## Ware

I use a newer version of that Milwaukee Magnum drill to backlap. It works great.

@Greendoc I'm going to merge this into the McLane thread so it doesn't get lost. Good stuff. :thumbup:


----------



## Redtenchu

I like it, thanks for sharing @Greendoc


----------



## Greendoc

I have seen the videos using duct tape, hoses clamped to the reel shaft and drill, as well as the one using a hole saw notched out to fit over the reel sprocket. I have tried the duct tape and the hoses clamped. Which lead me to construct a more substantial piece. I often have to deal with reels in bad shape. Other thing I do is use double sided carpet tape to attach 120 grit sand paper to a new bedknife if I am not changing the reel at the same time. That gets used to grind the reel such that not as many of the defects of the old bedknife get transferred to the new bedknife during the lapping in of the new.


----------



## Greendoc

Ware said:


> I use a newer version of that Milwaukee Magnum drill to backlap. It works great.
> 
> @Greendoc I'm going to merge this into the McLane thread so it doesn't get lost. Good stuff. :thumbup:


Thanks for moving and merging my post. Long day.


----------



## SGrabs33

Not positive it would fit but in the backlapping kit I sell we have an adapter that fits right over the socket. It's built for CalTrimmer but may fit a McLane also. Just thought I'd mention.


----------



## Greendoc

That is a nice tool. It would save me the trouble of extracting the sprockets from reel shafts. I get it done though. Have yet to have one that did not come off in one piece after a torch, Liquid Wrench, then a 2 ton gear puller.


----------



## SGrabs33

Greendoc said:


> That is a nice tool. It would save me the trouble of extracting the sprockets from reel shafts. I get it done though. Have yet to have one that did not come off in one piece after a torch, Liquid Wrench, then a 2 ton gear puller.


Yep, makes the most time consuming part of owning the reel much more convenient.

I would have to imagine those three would work well. :thumbup:


----------



## Greendoc

After I get the sprocket off of the shaft, outside of the shaft is sanded totally smooth, inside of the sprocket is sanded smooth, then the contact surfaces including the set screw get greased. I have needed the torch specifically for set screws that have seized into the sprocket.


----------



## Flynt2799

So the guy selling is asking $250, bout to head over to look at it. Anything I should look for?


----------



## J_nick

Condition of reel and bedknife would be the main thing to check out.


----------



## Flynt2799

J_nick said:


> Condition of reel and bedknife would be the main thing to check out.


He says they are in good condition which is better than what I've got from other sellers. Seems like every time I ask that question I get ghosted.


----------



## J_nick

Take a piece of paper with you and see if it will cut it. It most likely won't and may just need backlapping if the relief on the reel is still good. Tell him it needs sharpening and offer him less. If it does cut paper then great he probably kept it in good condition.


----------



## Flynt2799

J_nick said:


> Take a piece of paper with you and see if it will cut it. It most likely won't and may just need backlapping if the relief on the reel is still good. Tell him it needs sharpening and offer him less. If it does cut paper then great he probably kept it in good condition.


So the reel and bedknife looked to be in good shape, no dings or nicks. The engine started on first pull and sounded great. His CL add was asking $400. After talking with him for a bit walked away with the mower and a full tank of gas for $145 :shock:


----------



## SGrabs33

@Flynt2799 Very nice! The REEL looks pretty old but as long as it runs well and the blades are good then 145 is a great deal IMO.


----------



## J_nick

Dang, I need you to be my negotiator


----------



## Flynt2799

J_nick said:


> Dang, I need you to be my negotiator


Well it probably helped that we both knew very little about it. Dropped a few lines that you guys said to look for and rubbed my chin for a bit...he just kept dropping the price the more I looked like I would walk.

Here are a few pics of the reel.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

That reel looks good. A quick backlap and you should be in business.


----------



## Flynt2799

Fistertondeluxe said:


> That reel looks good. A quick backlap and you should be in business.


Plan on trying to figure that out next.


----------



## Adrian82

Just picked up a second Mclane (20-3.5SB-10) today for $125. The reel needs a backlap, otherwise, it looks very good. The bedknife is less than a year old so that's a plus! The carb needs a little care and some springs are missing. The seller was pretty cool, and he recently upgraded to a California. We may have a new forum member.

I just fixed the automatic drive on my original McLane (20-3.5H-7) yesterday. Now I have to play musical chairs with the 10 blade reel and bedknife because I want those pieces on my Honda-engine McLane.


----------



## SGrabs33

Adrian82 said:


> Just picked up a second Mclane (20-3.5SB-10) today for $125. The reel needs a backlap, otherwise, it looks very good. The bedknife is less than a year old so that's a plus! The carb needs a little care and some springs are missing. The seller was pretty cool, and he recently upgraded to a California. We may have a new forum member.
> 
> I just fixed the automatic drive on my original McLane (20-3.5H-7) yesterday. Now I have to play musical chairs with the 10 blade reel and bedknife because I want those pieces on my Honda-engine McLane.


It's a sickness!


----------



## Kballen11

SGrabs33 said:


> Not positive it would fit but in the backlapping kit I sell we have an adapter that fits right over the socket. It's built for CalTrimmer but may fit a McLane also. Just thought I'd mention.


Do you have a link with more info on this kit?


----------



## SGrabs33

@Kballen11 here is a pic and a link. Happy to answer any questions you may have.


----------



## Greendoc

I see the kit comes with a new sprocket. What is that for?


----------



## Adrian82

SGrabs33 said:


> Adrian82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just picked up a second Mclane (20-3.5SB-10) today for $125. The reel needs a backlap, otherwise, it looks very good. The bedknife is less than a year old so that's a plus! The carb needs a little care and some springs are missing. The seller was pretty cool, and he recently upgraded to a California. We may have a new forum member.
> 
> I just fixed the automatic drive on my original McLane (20-3.5H-7) yesterday. Now I have to play musical chairs with the 10 blade reel and bedknife because I want those pieces on my Honda-engine McLane.
> 
> 
> 
> It's a sickness!
Click to expand...

So I pull up and back my truck to the garage. As I open the garage, my wife comes out to recycle some trash, and she asks me what's in the truck. She states that she knows something is in there because I backed the truck in.


----------



## Flynt2799

Adrian82 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adrian82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just picked up a second Mclane (20-3.5SB-10) today for $125. The reel needs a backlap, otherwise, it looks very good. The bedknife is less than a year old so that's a plus! The carb needs a little care and some springs are missing. The seller was pretty cool, and he recently upgraded to a California. We may have a new forum member.
> 
> I just fixed the automatic drive on my original McLane (20-3.5H-7) yesterday. Now I have to play musical chairs with the 10 blade reel and bedknife because I want those pieces on my Honda-engine McLane.
> 
> 
> 
> It's a sickness!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So I pull up and back my truck to the garage. As I open the garage, my wife comes out to recycle some trash, and she asks me what's in the truck. She states that she knows something is in there because I backed the truck in.
Click to expand...

Busted lol....they always seem to walk out at the worst time!


----------



## Adrian82

Greendoc said:


> @Redtenchu Just got back in after backlapping and adjusting mowers for some people. No need for a relief grind because I did that last year.
> The adapter consists of a 5/8 coupling nut with the side that fits on the shaft ground out just enough to slide on with minimal play. A hole near the end is tapped to accept a 1/4-20 set screw.
> 
> The driver for the coupler is a 11/8" socket and the standard 1/2" drill adapter. The drill is a 1/2" Milwaukee Magnum. Over 10 years old but it has been backlapping mowers all this time, among other things.


@Greendoc Did you use a gear puller to remove the sprocket?


----------



## Greendoc

Yes. Other tool that I find essential is an allen wrench set that fits to a 3/8" drive socket. wrench. The set screw holding the sprocket to the reel shaft can be frozen. I have turned the L shaped keys into pretzels. If it is the first time that set screw has been touched, I will need Liquid Wrench and maybe even the Bernzomatic.


----------



## Adrian82

Greendoc said:


> Yes. Other tool that I find essential is an allen wrench set that fits to a 3/8" drive socket. wrench. The set screw holding the sprocket to the reel shaft can be frozen. I have turned the L shaped keys into pretzels. If it is the first time that set screw has been touched, I will need Liquid Wrench and maybe even the Bernzomatic.


Thanks again @Greendoc. My industrial allen wrench warped the friggin the screw holding the sprocket. Luckily, I was able to get the sprocket off with a gear puller and breaker bar. I swapped the 10 blade reel and bed knife. After a good backlapping, the Honda-based McLane is good to go.


----------



## Greendoc

If it is the first time someone has removed the sprocket, I plan on soaking the screw in Liquid Wrench then making small talk with the mower owner for a while. Then I torch it and while it is still hot, put so more Liquid Wrench on. Shooting a cold liquid on a hot screw helps break the rust. It also helps to make it easy to pull the sprocket with the gear puller. When the mower shops spin grind, they apparently have that implement @SGrabs33 showed. Trimmer and McLane are similar in design and outer appearance save for the locking drive clutch on the Trimmer. In the 1960's, there were so many reel mower manufacturers in Southern California. I know of King-O-Lawn and Kato-Promaster as brands that died. Funny thing is, to my eyes, they were copies of Tru-Cut. I occasionally see them and get to backlap them. Those are mowers that I advise not to set up on the spin grind and no relief program. A mower on that program in Hawaii needs a new reel in about a year or two. Remember that we mow 12 months out of the year. Only difference is, in a cloudy winter and spring, mowing might only be needed twice a month.


----------



## Paul

This is what I made to backlap my Mclane. You remove the small sprocket and this slides over the shaft. The set screw is reused to hold it in place. I turned the OD of the outboard shaft So any standard drill will fit.


----------



## Greendoc

Now that is a tool . Puts mine to shame.


----------



## Ral1121

Well lost a wheel on my 17" powered McLane reel mower. Anyone know where I can get new ones?


----------



## SGrabs33

@Ral1121 With the McLane price increases recently it might be cheaper to buy a parts mower.


----------



## Ral1121

@SGrabs33 it's tough because I do not see many reel mowers in my area and they do not produce my model anymore. I actually found what I needed from McLane. They were 24 a piece. I went ahead and ordered replacements for both my wheels. Not too bad. I saw that the 20 and 25 models where outrageous though. I stuck in a hard place right now,. I want to move up to a greens mower next season and keep my McLane as a back up but at the same time I do not want to spend too much on the McLane. I am trying to figure out if it will be worth it to put a roller on it or not.


----------



## SGrabs33

Ral1121 said:


> SGrabs33 it's tough because I do not see many reel mowers in my area and they do not produce my model anymore. I actually found what I needed from McLane. They were 24 a piece. I went ahead and ordered replacements for both my wheels. Not too bad. I saw that the 20 and 25 models where outrageous though. I stuck in a hard place right now,. I want to move up to a greens mower next season and keep my McLane as a back up but at the same time I do not want to spend too much on the McLane. I am trying to figure out if it will be worth it to put a roller on it or not.


Yeah that's a tough one. Did they make a roller for the 17" version?


----------



## Ral1121

SGrabs33 said:


> Ral1121 said:
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 it's tough because I do not see many reel mowers in my area and they do not produce my model anymore. I actually found what I needed from McLane. They were 24 a piece. I went ahead and ordered replacements for both my wheels. Not too bad. I saw that the 20 and 25 models where outrageous though. I stuck in a hard place right now,. I want to move up to a greens mower next season and keep my McLane as a back up but at the same time I do not want to spend too much on the McLane. I am trying to figure out if it will be worth it to put a roller on it or not.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah that's a tough one. Did they make a roller for the 17" version?
Click to expand...

Yes they do. It goes for $140. I will probably do it since it will be my backup. I just struggle because that is more then what I paid for the mower. As it is, I am spending almost half of what I paid just to replace the 2 wheels.


----------



## Cigar_Fiend

Hello Forum! This is Post #1 for me and just wanted to say "HI" and that I have a McLane as well and hope to learn how to treat it right and do the proper upkeep. I am in Norman, OK and am currently looking for someone to backlap my blades or (hopefully) to learn how to do it myself to save $$$. I am always up to learn new tricks of the trade, and have read about the first two pages of this topic. I will keep reading.

HELLO!


----------



## Ware

Cigar_Fiend said:


> Hello Forum! This is Post #1 for me and just wanted to say "HI" and that I have a McLane as well and hope to learn how to treat it right and do the proper upkeep. I am in Norman, OK and am currently looking for someone to backlap my blades or (hopefully) to learn how to do it myself to save $$$. I am always up to learn new tricks of the trade, and have read about the first two pages of this topic. I will keep reading.
> 
> HELLO!


Welcome to TLF! :thumbsup:

@Redtenchu is in Shawnee and has made several backlapping videos, including a McLane.


----------



## Cigar_Fiend

Perfect! I will watch them!

Thank you!


----------



## Flynt2799

So this is my first Mclane and I'm happy so far, just have a few questions.
1)how often do you guys find yourself adjusting the bedknife to get a clean cut?
2)how often do you backlap?
3)when do you know if you need to have the reel ground or not?


----------



## Ral1121

@Reelrollers I am looking to purchase a roller for my McLane. I have an old 1997 17" powered reel that is not produced anymore and has a different height adjustment and front end then the 20 and 25 models. Will the 17" roller fit my McLane properly? Here is a pic of what I am talking about.


----------



## Reelrollers

We make a roller specific for that model of McLane. In fact, they have a left side height adjustment version and right side height adjustment version.

We make both. You can order one from our website and we'll ship it out in 24 hours or less.

Thank you


----------



## Ral1121

Reelrollers said:


> We make a roller specific for that model of McLane. In fact, they have a left side height adjustment version and right side height adjustment version.
> 
> We make both. You can order one from our website and we'll ship it out in 24 hours or less.
> 
> Thank you


When I look online to order, I only see an options for either a 17, 20, or 25. Is there something I am missing or am I just over thinking it and should just choose 17" and be done?


----------



## Reelrollers

17" and thats it. We'll send you ups tracking number in the am when it ships.


----------



## Ral1121

Reelrollers said:


> 17" and thats it. We'll send you ups tracking number in the am when it ships.


Awesome thanks for the help. Just ordered it. Looking forward to using it and seeing what kind of difference it's going to make.


----------



## RipperFox

Can anyone tell me what model mower this is? I need a manual and parts.


----------



## Bmossin

Hey Everyone 
New to the forum and love it so far. I'm looking at a 20in...it is actually an old Montgomery Ward version but it was made by McLane. 
I'm a little over 6ft and when I was checking this out it felt like the handle was really low. Is there a way to raise it up higher?


----------



## JRS 9572

Hello all! I'm new to the forum. I bought my 1st 20" McLane in 1997 right out of college at a local hardware store. I'm now on my 3rd model (replaced one at my last house and sold it to the new owner as I was leaving, and now have another for my 3 year old yard with TifGrand Bermuda pictured below.
At any rate my father in law has helped me backlap with an electric drill and fitting a socket stuffed with towel material over the shaft and that worked best. I did buy the backlapping kit from McLean. It's a chore to put on, and I don't feel the engine power used on the machine is fast enough to really get a good backlapping out of it. So these different "homemade" ways to backlap are a huge help. Can anyone confirm that the California Trimmer backlap kit fitting will work with a McLane. I see it advertised for $49.99 here https://www.mowersdirect.com/California-Trimmer-H0907/p82170.html. My only hindrance is that the sprocket pictured has 11 teeth. The front sprocket on the McLane has 13 teeth. I really hope someone can confirm it works. Because that would make it a whole lot easier. 
I know this thread has been around a while, but someone was asking about ordering a reel and other parts. I've had success ordering spare parts from https://www.mclaneedgers.com/parts-accessories/ 
I wouldn't say it's the cheapest, or the easiest ordering process. But you can get parts. The 7 blade real for a 20" is roughly $520.00 and the bedknife is around $198.00. For that you might as well buy a new mower. 
At any rate thanks for all this good info.


----------



## wartee

@JRS 9572 I'm almost certain that Trimmer fitting won't fit your McLane. You can make your own with a big socket, some rod stock or cut off bolts, and a welder. 


Also, I have some NOS McLane reels for sale on the equipment exchange forum, if anybody needs one!


----------



## Flynt2799

Hoping somebody can't point me in the right direction. I have a 20" McLane that runs great, the only issue I seem to have is the reel adjustment. I have *********** this machine 3 times already this season. Following a good ************ the reel to bedknife is minimal contact with almost no sound and cuts paper. But after a few mows I find myself adjusting this more and more and start to get this terrible squeal from the contact between the two, it's not hard to spin but damn it's loud. Only fix I've found so far is to backslap it again and readjust till she starts squealing like a pig. Any suggestions would be great!


----------



## Ral1121

@Flynt2799 sounds like you might need a sharpening and a new bedknife possibly


----------



## trickd122

Thank you for accepting my membership request.

I recently acquired M clean 17" real gas more for a total of $80 it's running. I have 2 problems currently one whenever the grass is a little bit of high it tends to burn a belt or the clutch belt. To is there a way or can I put larger wheels on it to cut higher grass example let's say I wanted to cut at a 3" height thanks in advance


----------



## Flynt2799

@Ral1121 I was wondering if it just needs a relief grind. The bedknife looks to have plenty of life left, but I could be wrong. Issue I have is that the only place near me that does relief grinding is on a 7-10 wait. Guess I'll have to bite the bullet.


----------



## Ral1121

@Flynt2799 have you tried calling golf courses in the area? I know in San Antonio, Silverhorn golf course will do grinding


----------



## Flynt2799

Ral1121 said:


> have you tried calling golf courses in the area? I know in San Antonio, Silverhorn golf course will do grinding


I approached the three courses near me and they all said the same thing. They either backslap on course or take them to the shop I mentioned above. There are more courses but I think I'm just going to take it in.


----------



## NateClark

Bought this 20 inch mclane last week for $124. After adjusting the reel to bed knife I put an initial cut on the lawn and it cut pretty well. 


I need to replace the clutch belt - it's loose and fraying. Anybody have a good tutorial for this??


----------



## Kballen11

Does anyone else's mclane do this? These photos aren't the best but after I mow I am always left with stripes of differing heights. I thought it was a leveling problem so I tackled that and sure I am some more leveling to do to be perfect but this happens all over my yard sometimes in unlevel spots sometimes in the flattest parts. Not sure if there is an adjustment I can make. Any ideas?


----------



## Reel Low Dad

Mine does this in the front yard. It is due to the yard being uneven. I usually double cut in the same direction and do a third at a 45 or 90 to get rid of those.


----------



## Kballen11

It must not be forgiving at all because I said my yard is becoming fairly level. Or at least I think it is. Haha.


----------



## Cheesetoast

Do you have a front roller on your McLane?


----------



## Kballen11

I do.


----------



## Flynt2799

@Kballen11 I have the same issue with my McLane, not as much of a height difference though. I also have a front roller.


----------



## Kballen11

Mine looks just like that. Maybe it's time to upgrade?


----------



## Spammage

I have had issues where the grass gets to thick and puffy. The mower just floats, but in small areas not as thick, it will sink and cause this issue.


----------



## Shaky

So I have been looking for a Mclane mower that maybe just needed a little work on Craigslist or Facebook. Well I found one and purchased it for $50. The guy said he has been storing it for the last two years and when he gave it to his grandson this spring it wouldn't start. I met him and looked it over. The blades are in good condition (other than the paint) and the bed knife is in good condition. Let's face it though the thing looks rough and the engine is a bit of a mess. However, after looking at it I found the first reason it won't start, which is the choke/throttle cable is stuck in the stop position. I pulled it off and am soaking it in some penetration fluid (phrasing) to see if I can get the thing to move. Other than that I am hoping I can clean the carburetor and get it running. Once it is running I will sand everything down and get it back to that beautiful red and yellow.

I figure for $50 dollars the worst that can happen is I don't get it running and just end up with a Predator engine on it. I don't know how old it really is (owner said 15 years) and I don't see any model numbers on the engine for replacement parts that might be needed. Anyone know how to find that or maybe know how old this thing really is?


----------



## DR_GREENTHUMB

How can one determine if the bedknife is worn out?


----------



## 985arrowhead

New to the TLF!

I picked up my Mcalne Reel 25 about 3 years ago for a good price. Honda engine and runs great. Nearest person I could find to help service it (i.e. sharpen/grind) is over an hour away. It is also not a store front so it takes some coordination to actually get the mower to him. After I first purchsed it brought it up to him and he looked it over. He is the former head of the course at Country Club of LA. States that he did grind the wheel and bedknife and made all the adjustments. Along with a tune up. That was the later part of summer 2015. So not to many cuts on it, then in 2016 I just ran it for the season. I tried to get it to him before 2017 season but ultimately started getting into this way to much!

I leveled the yard a 6000sqft tiffway 419 laid in May 2015 with masonry sand and top soil about 2/3 & 1/3 mix, and sifted every load to get any debris out. Aerated the clay soil and did a soil test. Correct high pH with aluminum sulfate and went about a 1 lb per k N program.

Lawn has been doing great! I get at least one person stop everytime I have the reel to ask about it or comment on how great my yard looks. Huge pat on the back and fun for me as the wife & kids say I spend way to much time in the lawn......


----------



## g-man

Reel and bedknife are both wear items that need to replaced. The bedknife more often than the reel. Try to measure the of of the reel, maybe the guys that have your mower type might be able to guide you if it reached the end of life.


----------



## SGrabs33

Anyone own the Greenskeeper version of the McLane? I just picked up this one today as a possible project. I've been searching all over for the manual but can find one for this version.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

SGrabs33 said:


> Anyone own the Greenskeeper version of the McLane? I just picked up this one today as a possible project. I've been searching all over for the manual but can find one for this version.


I'm sort of kinda interested in this. I will be in Charlotte in a few weeks and may make a trip up to see how we can refab this.


----------



## flats642

I know there are lots of ideas on how to spin the reel for back lapping, but here is another that works. I had an adjustable hole cutter laying around and thought if I took the center bit off I could adjust the tips to fit in the sprockets. Cost about $8.00 from Harbor Freight and could be used for a variety of sprocket sizes.

https://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-tip-adjustable-circle-cutter-68117.html


----------



## Spammage

flats642 said:


> I know there are lots of ideas on how to spin the reel for back lapping, but here is another that works. I had an adjustable hole cutter laying around and thought if I took the center bit off I could adjust the tips to fit in the sprockets. Cost about $8.00 from Harbor Freight and could be used for a variety of sprocket sizes.
> 
> https://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-tip-adjustable-circle-cutter-68117.html


Nice! :thumbup:


----------



## 985arrowhead

Reel nice! Just what I needed and will be picking it up tomorrow at the local HF!


----------



## flats642

Another option for the lapping compound at the local Napa store for $7. Seemed to work great.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7652657


----------



## SC-Bermuda

Anyone notice how ridiculous the part prices are from mclane now? for a 25" the bed knife cost $209.64 and 10 blade reel cost $645.88. Does anyone have a better source? With prices that high I can't justify buying a mclane.


----------



## SGrabs33

SC-Bermuda said:


> Anyone notice how ridiculous the part prices are from mclane now? for a 25" the bed knife cost $209.64 and 10 blade reel cost $645.88. Does anyone have a better source? With prices that high I can't justify buying a mclane.


Yep, someone mentioned that ownership changed hands recently and the prices went wayyyy up.


----------



## Duplex Dave

I bought a used reel off eBay for $150 if I recall correctly. There is lots of parts on eBay. It mated with a new bed knife really well after some back lapping 80 and 120 grit. I got the bed knife from Sears. 20" mower I got for free.


----------



## Duplex Dave

HOC question, as mentioned above I put a used reel and new bed knife on a free mower and back lapped. It cuts great but I do have at least a 3/16" difference in cut height from side to side. The left side (when behind the mower) is lower. Since the bed knife height is pre-determined the only way I can see to remedy this is by adjusting the axle height on the rear wheels. Has anyone done this to correct a side to side height difference?
I don't have a roller and probably won't get one. Why push the blades down before cutting them. I understand they help with lumpy uneven lawns but I don't have that problem. The other main reason for a front roller is for a better stripe effect which I'm not concerned with either.


----------



## 985arrowhead

There are lot of part's for mostly 20 in Mclanes on ebay but not a lot of reel's or bed knife's. I just spoke to my local guy who grinds my reel. I have a 25 inch 7 blade reel and he said a new reel is about 525 "his price" and a bed knife for 180.

He says he can get me a 25 cal trimmer for $2200...

Swardman?


----------



## dirttrafficker751

The never ending McLane project continues. LOL but it's fun.

I was mowing yesterday and right after I engaged the reels for the first time, they just stopped spinning. The drive wheel was spinning, but not the reel. I took the chain cover off and saw that the rear sprocket that attaches to the rear axle had sheared off. I drained the engine, flipped the unit over and took apart the axle assembly. Looks like I need to replace the axle and some bearings. Any one else ever experience this? If so, any tips or things to look out for?


----------



## Reelrollers

Duplex Dave said:


> HOC question, as mentioned above I put a used reel and new bed knife on a free mower and back lapped. It cuts great but I do have at least a 3/16" difference in cut height from side to side. The left side (when behind the mower) is lower. Since the bed knife height is pre-determined the only way I can see to remedy this is by adjusting the axle height on the rear wheels. Has anyone done this to correct a side to side height difference?
> I don't have a roller and probably won't get one. Why push the blades down before cutting them. I understand they help with lumpy uneven lawns but I don't have that problem. The other main reason for a front roller is for a better stripe effect which I'm not concerned with either.


I wanted to give a quick response because this question often comes up. Doesn't a front roller lay your grass? Nope. It will not lay down the grass and will give you an amazing level cut and eliminate unsightly scalping.

Think of it this way. If the roller was pushing down the grass and effecting the cut, you would currently have two 1" lines where that same push down is occurring with your front factory wheels. No one has that happen. In fact, when you have the wheels you are pushing down on the grass 10x more because the entire weight of the McLane is loaded on your 1" front wheels. The roller takes that same weight and disperses it over 20". Less push on grass and the reel spins forward grabbing the grass and pulling it up into the reel.

Side by side (roller vs no roller), there's no doubt every reel mower cutting less than 1" on a resident is lawn should have a roller due to imperfections in the turf. The stripe, just a side effect of the rollers main job which is to eliminate scalping and allow you to cut lower.


----------



## Duplex Dave

I totally get what you are saying and now maybe I will try a roller someday. My yard is not perfectly level but it's flat enough not to scalp the higher lumpy spots. I should be sand leveling it before the summer is over. I have done very little research on the subject but came across this video early in my searching. Not sure if this guy is from a golf course (probably) or what, but in the first minute he gives his opinion. And, the video is over an hour long so I only watched about the 1st 15 minutes before it became a little boring...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5J_SSzz6Jw&t=158s

What I really want to know is how to level the cut on my mower side to side, I need to raise the left side almost a 1/4" probably at the axle since the bed knife is not adjustable.


----------



## blubyu

Have a quick questions and probably know the answer already. My McLean 25" reel just did something its never done, I had it sharpened and serviced and it runs great BUT this past weekend after making the first pass it started what I'll call "binding" up. Basically the reel would get caught in the grass and stop spinning. Is this because my reel isn't making enough contact with the bed knife? It sort of came out of nowhere and the blades are still very sharp so it kind of baffled me.

Thanks!


----------



## JRS 9572

wartee said:


> @JRS 9572 I'm almost certain that Trimmer fitting won't fit your McLane. You can make your own with a big socket, some rod stock or cut off bolts, and a welder.
> 
> 
> Also, I have some NOS McLane reels for sale on the equipment exchange forum, if anybody needs one!


I finally got my "tool" made. Here's some pics. I have an extra sprocket to show how it fits. Can't wait to try it. My McLane needs backlapping something fierce.


----------



## Mowlow

Greets All,
My first post and a question.
I purchased a McLane 17 inch 10 blade powered mower from a posting on Craigslist. It's not my first 10 blade from McLane, I had a 17/10 pusher for a few years. Anyway, the quality of cut wasn't very good, so I adjusted the bedknife/reel. I noticed, after repeated attempts of trying to get the fit correct, that the openings on the tab adjustments weren't the same on both sides of the mower after adjusting. 
Shouldn't these be roughly the same size? Anyone think that somethings out of alignment and this is indicative of misalignment? I've gone over the mower and tightened up all the fittings, but nothing was loose.
I haven't backlapped yet, the quality of the cut was way better after the adjustment, but is a new bedknife and/or reel in my future?


----------



## Duplex Dave

[/quote]

I finally got my "tool" made. Here's some pics. I have an extra sprocket to show how it fits. Can't wait to try it. My McLane needs backlapping something fierce.

Awesome! I'm looking into making the same thing but Home Depot does not have a socket big enough. Do you remember what size socket you used? It's got to be around 1.5" right?


----------



## JRS 9572

@wartee used an 1 1/4" socket for his. I used a little bit larger like 1 5/16". Got it at Lowe's. Kobalt Brand where they sell individual sockets. Not the sets.

I would tell you the exact size, but after the welding and painting I can't find the markings that says the exact size.


----------



## Duplex Dave

JRS 9572 said:


> @wartee used an 1 1/4" socket for his. I used a little bit larger like 1 5/16". Got it at Lowe's. Kobalt Brand where they sell individual sockets. Not the sets.
> 
> I would tell you the exact size, but after the welding and painting I can't find the markings that says the exact size.


Thank you! When I looked into it a month or so ago I took my sprocket into Home Depot hoping to find an individual socket but they did not have one large enough. I will try Lowes!
I ended up buying and modifying a cheap hole saw but it's not very user friendly.... :roll:


----------



## JimB

Great post on adjusting the height of the reel versus the bedknife, super pictures! My issue is that my Mclane 20" is not cutting evenly. The right side (when driving) is cutting lower than the left side (or maybe the reverse?) and this makes the lawn look bad.

Does anyone have pictures of which bolts to adjust to even out the cut? And the procedure? I have used a straight edge from the rear wheel to the front wheel on both sides and tried to measure the distance to the bedknife on both sides, but it's not an accurate measurement with a ruler. I have seen a video using a straight edge with depth gauge that measures in thousands of an inch, but don't have one of those.


----------



## nchogberg

blubyu said:


> Have a quick questions and probably know the answer already. My McLean 25" reel just did something its never done, I had it sharpened and serviced and it runs great BUT this past weekend after making the first pass it started what I'll call "binding" up. Basically the reel would get caught in the grass and stop spinning. Is this because my reel isn't making enough contact with the bed knife? It sort of came out of nowhere and the blades are still very sharp so it kind of baffled me.
> 
> Thanks!


Are you on the high setting? Check that the front wheels are not making contact with the reel. Make sure the wheel bolts, axle and adjuster lever are all snug and tight, so there's no play where the wheels can contact the reel.

Regards,
Nels


----------



## nchogberg

Bmossin said:


> Hey Everyone
> New to the forum and love it so far. I'm looking at a 20in...it is actually an old Montgomery Ward version but it was made by McLane.
> I'm a little over 6ft and when I was checking this out it felt like the handle was really low. Is there a way to raise it up higher?


I added some flat Steel in between the handle bar and the McLane name plate I had to extend the real clutch engage with some threaded rod and also the drive wheel engage by adding another piece of flat Steel.


----------



## JRS 9572

[Update on the tool I had made below. Used it this weekend. And it worked like a charm. Bought a ``10 amp 1/2" plug in drill to run it. My reel was in bad shape. I took 3 different runs at it using about 5# of backlapping compound, and I finally feel like I've got my reel mower back to cutting. 
The McLane's are the least acquisition cost brand new. But very unfriendly to the user when it comes to back lapping and other issues.

I finally got my "tool" made. Here's some pics. I have an extra sprocket to show how it fits. Can't wait to try it. My McLane needs back lapping something fierce.








[/quote]


----------



## JimB

Guys, second post.

Does anyone have the adjustment procedure for making both sides of the mower cut at the same height?

Thanks,

JimB


----------



## wartee

JimB said:


> Guys, second post.
> 
> Does anyone have the adjustment procedure for making both sides of the mower cut at the same height?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> JimB


You can move the reel up and down on both sides with the reel adjusters, but the bedknife is fixed. It sounds like your bedknife needs to be removed and relief ground to be even from side to side. Another factor to consider is the wheels or front roller may have worn unevenly - but I'd say that's pretty unlikely.


----------



## nchogberg

wartee said:


> JimB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Guys, second post.
> 
> Does anyone have the adjustment procedure for making both sides of the mower cut at the same height?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> JimB
> 
> 
> 
> You can move the reel up and down on both sides with the reel adjusters, but the bedknife is fixed. It sounds like your bedknife needs to be removed and relief ground to be even from side to side. Another factor to consider is the wheels or front roller may have worn unevenly - but I'd say that's pretty unlikely.
Click to expand...

I bought a used one three weeks ago and here is my take there are a lot of bolts that can affect adjustment there's everything on the side plates there's he undercarriage for the free moving rear wheels there is the front axle pivot for the front wheels the lever adjustment all of these items if you have these mowers make sure your bolts are all snug and fit.

Regards,
Nels


----------



## JimB

Thanks to all for your replies. Bedknife "in fixed location" indicates an expensive repair to me. I'll live with it until the season is over and get it worked on late in the year.


----------



## Bmossin

nchogberg said:


> Bmossin said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey Everyone
> New to the forum and love it so far. I'm looking at a 20in...it is actually an old Montgomery Ward version but it was made by McLane.
> I'm a little over 6ft and when I was checking this out it felt like the handle was really low. Is there a way to raise it up higher?
> 
> 
> 
> I added some flat Steel in between the handle bar and the McLane name plate I had to extend the real clutch engage with some threaded rod and also the drive wheel engage by adding another piece of flat Steel.
Click to expand...

Awesome!

Thanks so much...looks like I've got a project on my hands now.


----------



## JRS 9572

JimB said:


> Guys, second post.
> 
> Does anyone have the adjustment procedure for making both sides of the mower cut at the same height?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> JimB


the only thing that I have done is to take a hammer and tap the screw on each side that adjusts the reel into the bed knife. Then as you back lap.....keep testing with paper. What I found is with mine both edges were cutting the paper, but the middle wasn't so I used a wood dowel and tapped the center with it and a hammer. Kept back lapping and eventually I got paper to cut at all areas.

My suspicion is that your bed knife maybe ground farther on one end as opposed to the opposite side.


----------



## Duplex Dave

JimB said:


> Guys, second post.
> 
> Does anyone have the adjustment procedure for making both sides of the mower cut at the same height?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> JimB


I have the same problem, left side is 3/16" lower. I have inquired on here as well. The only remedy I can see it by adjusting the whole rear axle which will require loosening many bolts. This is something I know I can tackle. There are exploded views of the assembly online. Not sure when I'll get to it but I will post results, and hopefully some pics.


----------



## Cigar_Fiend

The drive chain for my blade literally fell off today. Does anyone know if this is an easy fix? My neighbor was using the mower and he sent me a text saying the blade stopped spinning and the chain was on the ground. 
He couldn't find the 'master link' (or whatever you call it). Does anyone know the specifics of this chain so I don't get the wrong one?


----------



## erdons

Cigar_Fiend said:


> The drive chain for my blade literally fell off today. Does anyone know if this is an easy fix? My neighbor was using the mower and he sent me a text saying the blade stopped spinning and the chain was on the ground.
> He couldn't find the 'master link' (or whatever you call it). Does anyone know the specifics of this chain so I don't get the wrong one?


https://m.ebay.com/itm/Mclane-Drive-Rear-Chain-Part-1080-size-41-18-links-Made-in-the-U-S-A-/162143897766


----------



## Reel Low Dad

Ok so those on the discord know what I am up to. Currently mid process of carb rebuild and cleaning and carbon removal from the piston and valves. Will have a semi how to later this weekend when I am finished.


----------



## rennvale

Is it normal that at the lowest notch setting on the A configuration the bed knife touches the concrete and doesn't move forward at all?


----------



## erdons

Fistertondeluxe said:


> Ok so those on the discord know what I am up to. Currently mid process of carb rebuild and cleaning and carbon removal from the piston and valves. Will have a semi how to later this weekend when I am finished.


Patiently waiting for this... thanks in advance


----------



## Reel Low Dad

erdons said:


> Fistertondeluxe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok so those on the discord know what I am up to. Currently mid process of carb rebuild and cleaning and carbon removal from the piston and valves. Will have a semi how to later this weekend when I am finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patiently waiting for this... thanks in advance
Click to expand...

I have it filmed but I started slacking so I didn't go into super detail on the carb clean out. I need to edit it and make it look like I did more explaining than I did. Hopefully this week I will find some time for that. I will say that she runs great now. I used to have to keep it a full throttle all the time and now I can back it down to 3/4


----------



## erdons

Fistertondeluxe said:


> erdons said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fistertondeluxe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok so those on the discord know what I am up to. Currently mid process of carb rebuild and cleaning and carbon removal from the piston and valves. Will have a semi how to later this weekend when I am finished.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patiently waiting for this... thanks in advance
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have it filmed but I started slacking so I didn't go into super detail on the carb clean out. I need to edit it and make it look like I did more explaining than I did. Hopefully this week I will find some time for that. I will say that she runs great now. I used to have to keep it a full throttle all the time and now I can back it down to 3/4
Click to expand...

My McLane has been sputtering a bit the last week it stays on but after a few min it starts sputtering and Turns off, i imagine I need to give it a full service. A local shop will do full service, oil change and reel sharpening for $99... I might just have them take care of it...


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@erdons $99 for a full service and sharpening is a steal. If that also includes carb work I would hop in it. I replaced the diaphragm on the carb. The old one was in terrible shape.


----------



## havextree

So my dad is having issues with his mower. He just replaced a belt but now the sprocket on the rear axle doesn't seem to translate into the axle. There is a screw in the axle that seems to hold the two together but the axle or sprocket have moved laterally and it seems not to be lined up. I can't seem to get it lined up. Should I take the whole rear assembly apart?


----------



## erdons

So my McLane reel mower with Briggs & Stratton engine seems to be running only on choke for a few seconds then turns off. I imagine I need to do oil change, carb cleaning etc, i'd Prefer to diy if I could... any guidance. For now off to google and YouTube to see what I find.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

erdons said:


> So my McLane reel mower with Briggs & Stratton engine seems to be running only on choke for a few seconds then turns off. I imagine I need to do oil change, carb cleaning etc, i'd Prefer to diy if I could... any guidance. For now off to google and YouTube to see what I find.


You probably want to get a new head gasket and remove the head and clean all the carbon off. I did a carb rebuild on mine and it still ran so so. After taking the head off and cleaning that it ran like a champ. Briggs recommends that every 100 hours.


----------



## erdons

Fistertondeluxe said:


> erdons said:
> 
> 
> 
> So my McLane reel mower with Briggs & Stratton engine seems to be running only on choke for a few seconds then turns off. I imagine I need to do oil change, carb cleaning etc, i'd Prefer to diy if I could... any guidance. For now off to google and YouTube to see what I find.
> 
> 
> 
> You probably want to get a new head gasket and remove the head and clean all the carbon off. I did a carb rebuild on mine and it still ran so so. After taking the head off and cleaning that it ran like a champ. Briggs recommends that every 100 hours.
Click to expand...

I took the carb apart and worked on getting it clean, ordered the carb rebuild kit, diaphragm etc. I'll see how it functions once it's done and then I'll see if I have to change the head gasket.


----------



## erdons

Rebuilt the carburetor, new diaphragm and gasket, cleaned everything and soaked with carb cleaner put it all back together and still it will turn on every 3rd pull and die within 5-10 seconds. Gas I'm using was stabilized yesterday. &#128555;


----------



## erdons

I was going to take in the mower to a local shop but figured $100-200, thought about a predator engine which would be a nice option but still $100-200. Checked Craigslist and found this bad boy for $30. Reel and bedknife are in excellent shape, engine idles down real nice. Mowed my lawn nice than my other machine ever had.


----------



## Jayray

How do you check the valves on these? That seems crazy to have to clean the carbon every 100 hours but even the Toro GM say to clean the carbon off the cylinder every 500 hours and rebuild at 1000 hours.


----------



## erdons

I found this repair manual that's good for most Briggs and Stratton engines on these McLane mowers. I'm sure it will benefit someone, I didn't find it till after I tore apart mine, luckily all is back to normal.

http://www.tuks.nl/WFCProject/img/Engine_Carburator/81644210-Briggs-Stratton-Service-Manual-L-Head.pdf


----------



## BJSYARDMAINT

I just picked up a Mclane 20" off Craigslist for $220. Needs reel sharpened, bedknife sharpened, and clutch belt. Does anybody know what would cause the mower not to drive when you put the drive lever down? I know its seems like I got ripped off but in my area this was cheap. To find a deal I would need to drive minimum 1 hr and half.


----------



## erdons

BJSYARDMAINT said:


> I just picked up a Mclane 20" off Craigslist for $220. Needs reel sharpened, bedknife sharpened, and clutch belt. Does anybody know what would cause the mower not to drive when you put the drive lever down? I know its seems like I got ripped off but in my area this was cheap. To find a deal I would need to drive minimum 1 hr and half.


Does the drive wheel move when engaging the throttle even before you put the lever down?


----------



## BJSYARDMAINT

No it does not. I ordered a new clutch belt 1060-b GW Belts 4L195 and I will be taking it to local Mower shop for Bedknife sharpening $18. $75 for reel sharpening.

The Clutch belt only affects the reel, Right? Could the drive chain be loose or stretched?


----------



## erdons

Make sure the chain on the right side of the drive wheel is engaged, sometimes they get loose and come off and get jammed between the sprocket. Also how is the wear on your drive wheel tires? I had an issue where the tires were grounded down flat which made them even with the sprocket/chain so they would get caught on the ground and disengage the chain, I replaced those tires also. I'm fairly sure that all 3 chains work at the same time so if one is not engaged or busted the other 2 wont function.


----------



## BJSYARDMAINT

erdons said:


> Make sure the chain on the right side of the drive wheel is engaged, sometimes they get loose and come off and get jammed between the sprocket. Also how is the wear on your drive wheel tires? I had an issue where the tires were grounded down flat which made them even with the sprocket/chain so they would get caught on the ground and disengage the chain, I replaced those tires also. I'm fairly sure that all 3 chains work at the same time so if one is not engaged or busted the other 2 wont function.


I had the mower at a shop for a week. i dropped it off Monday and they said it would be done by Friday Morning. That didn't happen and I was told to take my machine they did not want to work on machine. I took it to another shop and they said it will need: Reel sharpened, Bedknife Sharpened, new belt and possibly chain or bearings or both....all for $165.00 be ready tomorrow or monday.


----------



## Brackin4au

BJSYARDMAINT said:


> erdons said:
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure the chain on the right side of the drive wheel is engaged, sometimes they get loose and come off and get jammed between the sprocket. Also how is the wear on your drive wheel tires? I had an issue where the tires were grounded down flat which made them even with the sprocket/chain so they would get caught on the ground and disengage the chain, I replaced those tires also. I'm fairly sure that all 3 chains work at the same time so if one is not engaged or busted the other 2 wont function.
> 
> 
> 
> I had the mower at a shop for a week. i dropped it off Monday and they said it would be done by Friday Morning. That didn't happen and I was told to take my machine they did not want to work on machine. I took it to another shop and they said it will need: Reel sharpened, Bedknife Sharpened, new belt and possibly chain or bearings or both....all for $165.00 be ready tomorrow or monday.
Click to expand...

That's frustrating you wasted your time with the first shop. At least the 2nd shop seems eager to have your business...


----------



## BJSYARDMAINT

I have not had luck with mower shops. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this other mechanic does a good job.


----------



## erdons

BJSYARDMAINT said:


> erdons said:
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure the chain on the right side of the drive wheel is engaged, sometimes they get loose and come off and get jammed between the sprocket. Also how is the wear on your drive wheel tires? I had an issue where the tires were grounded down flat which made them even with the sprocket/chain so they would get caught on the ground and disengage the chain, I replaced those tires also. I'm fairly sure that all 3 chains work at the same time so if one is not engaged or busted the other 2 wont function.
> 
> 
> 
> I had the mower at a shop for a week. i dropped it off Monday and they said it would be done by Friday Morning. That didn't happen and I was told to take my machine they did not want to work on machine. I took it to another shop and they said it will need: Reel sharpened, Bedknife Sharpened, new belt and possibly chain or bearings or both....all for $165.00 be ready tomorrow or monday.
Click to expand...

Not bad, that's the price you gotta pay to get your mower ready for the season. If a shop is afraid to work on your McLane mower then I don't know how they can sustain a business, I have no mechanical experience and managed to get my McLane repaired and ready for mowing season.


----------



## BJSYARDMAINT

erdons said:


> BJSYARDMAINT said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> erdons said:
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure the chain on the right side of the drive wheel is engaged, sometimes they get loose and come off and get jammed between the sprocket. Also how is the wear on your drive wheel tires? I had an issue where the tires were grounded down flat which made them even with the sprocket/chain so they would get caught on the ground and disengage the chain, I replaced those tires also. I'm fairly sure that all 3 chains work at the same time so if one is not engaged or busted the other 2 wont function.
> 
> 
> 
> I had the mower at a shop for a week. i dropped it off Monday and they said it would be done by Friday Morning. That didn't happen and I was told to take my machine they did not want to work on machine. I took it to another shop and they said it will need: Reel sharpened, Bedknife Sharpened, new belt and possibly chain or bearings or both....all for $165.00 be ready tomorrow or monday.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not bad, that's the price you gotta pay to get your mower ready for the season. If a shop is afraid to work on your McLane mower then I don't know how they can sustain a business, I have no mechanical experience and managed to get my McLane repaired and ready for mowing season.
Click to expand...

The shop was not afraid of working on it. They did not like me pointing out the fact that we had a agreement and they did not uphold their end. Needless to say I will never use the again.


----------



## Brackin4au

Can't blame you there


----------



## Jayray

What kind of lube would be good for the chain? The manual just says to oil it. Are there other parts that need to be lubricated on these machines?


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

I use Champion chain lube spray on the chains. It seems to be a white lithium grease product as it leaves a heavy wax-like whitish film on the chain.
Fluid Film is good to use on the edges of the reel blades and bedknife - keeps rust off of them.


----------



## Jayray

Groundskeeper Willie said:


> I use Champion chain lube spray on the chains. It seems to be a white lithium grease product as it leaves a heavy wax-like whitish film on the chain.
> Fluid Film is good to use on the edges of the reel blades and bedknife - keeps rust off of them.


Great, thanks.


----------



## NoslracNevok

I may buy a 20" McLane, it has 10 blades. I cut my KBG on average .75" (+-.25 depending on conditions). My understanding is more blades are typically better at low HOC, due to clip rate.

Will the 10 or 7 be better for my range of cut, and is there enough difference that I may not want to consider a unit with a 10 blade reel?

(edit: I normally cut every 2 or 3 days)


----------



## Greendoc

7 blades are what you want for that HOC. 10 blades are for 0.25 and lower. 5 blades would be even better for 0.75 and higher.


----------



## JRS 9572

Ok so I'm in the middle of trying to get my two McLanes working right. Long story short I bought a McLane after have my origional from 1997 sold to the new owner of my house in Summerville, SC. Spring of 15 I go to Amazon and order a new one for my new home close to completion. It's damaged in shipment. Amazon sends me another one free of charge. I ordered parts to fix the damaged one. Now I have two of them needing work to be up and running due to various issues.

So here's what I've got going:
One model:
This past fall the reel stopped turning when I was mowing. The drive chain and belt seemed to be in place. The belt looked a little worn. I've got the belt to replace, and the apparatus comes apart like a jig saw puzzle. 
The other part I have to figure out is the engine with the throttle fully open has never run as fast as I remember the old one doing, and bogs down in thicker bermuda. Never had that issue with the old one. I assume that has to do with adjusting the engine governor somewhere on the Briggs engine. 
Also the middle tires in back have worn down. See the difference in the pics of the two mowers back tires. 1st pic below has the worn tires:





I can't see a part number on these in the McLane manual or on their site. But I have found what I think are those tires on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Mclane-Genuine-Original-Equipment-Manufacturer/dp/B071X5LKKD/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=MCLANE&qid=1554904745&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-5-catcorr

Do these look like the replacements?

Second Model:
Ran well. Until one day the drive chain up under the mower, to the left of the tires pictured, came apart. I've ordered another chain and will replace it. But my mind tells me....my old one never did this in 15 years. Is there a bigger issue I need to look for that made it throw the chain?

Thanks for any and all help that can be offered.


----------



## wartee

@JRS 9572 
McLane tires - unless you are having traction problems, I have successfully made them last just about forever by driving a self tapping screw straight into each tire, into the shaft. To make it look nice, drive the screws in a neat row. That stops them from slipping in between the tires, and they turn in unison again. Probably did that to a dozen or so mowers and as far as I know they are still working fine.

Edit: chains stretch over time, nothing to worry about. I can't remember how you adjust slack in the engine chain, I know on a Trimmer you shim the engine up of it doesn't have a chain adjuster


----------



## JRS 9572

I have a lot of incline. The mower gets almost bogged down at times and I have to put my big rear end behind it in order get it moving. That could also be attributed to it running at what seems to be well below full power when the throttle has been pushed all the way. I ordered another throttle cable just in case I find a bind or kink in the one on the mower. Also we're going to see about adjusting the governor. So it could be a combination of the tires, governor, and throttle cable. Who knows.

It's frustrating to say the least. But I'm not going to let it whip me and keep me from cutting and enjoying my yard the way I want.


----------



## w0lfe

Alright I've got some questions. I'm having issues with adjusting my HOC. I can pretty much just keep it on the second notch. The roller lever wants to hit the yellow notch on the height adjuster when we try to adjust lower. Also in the pics, where there is a gap between the roller lever and where I mount the roller. If I tighten that nut, it puts the yellow HOC adjuster in a bind. What am I not doing right ?


----------



## w0lfe

Just to follow up with my post above, does anyone use washers to space the gaps on where I tighten the nut?


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

It looks like you have the front axle on position B (middle hole for middle range of cuts between 7/8"and 1+3/16").

If the front axle is at B, then the lever for height adjustment needs to be fastened with its screw through the top hole instead of the bottom. In the pictures there is a little sleeve bearing stuck in that top hole on the lever. The lever screw needs to go through there, through the sleeve.

Now when you try to reposition the lever screw lever to change between axle positions, it's always a wrestling match to try to get the lever up so you can get the screw through it with all the parts in the right places. It's probably easiest to use needle nose pliers to unhook the spring which tensions that lever when trying to reposition things, then rehook it when everything is in place. For years I did this without removing the spring. I wouldn't be able to explain how to do that without confusing both of us. Wear eye protection when messing with that spring because it's a trick to rehook it and it could fly up in your face. Of course note well where the spring is hooked before removing it.

There's supposed to be a nut on the end of the front axle but it's missing in your pictures. Maybe you just had it off while working on the mower.

You can download the manual to the mower from mclane.com. It may help to have it around for reference, but it does actually incorrectly label the height adjustment notches. The manual would have you believe that the notches toward the front end of the mower lower your height of cut, when in fact they bring the axle inwards, raising the height of cut. The notches towards the back move the front axle out and away from the mower, lowering the height of cut. All these years and they've never bothered to correct that.

The sleeve bearing spaces the lever OK. There's a nylon washer for spacing things down at the axle.


----------



## quadmasta

I bought a mower off of craiglist and it needs some help 

The height adjustment lever is missing hardware and the lock is zip-tied to the side plate. Can someone tell me what's supposed to be there? It also looks like there'd be a "hotdog down the hallway" situation since the lever's holes look like they're pretty shot.



The drive chain is also juuust a bit worn. It measures just over 23" in length excluding the master link. One of the bolts that holds the bed knife has the head worn away about halfway due to the chain dragging on it.



The drive lever also seems like it's not adjusted properly. Is it supposed to "cam over" and hold itself in the down position or should I have to keep force on the wheel to keep it down? Looks like there's an adjustment with a set screw on the arm that pushes down on the control rod.


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

What's missing in your mower's height adjustment is 3 things: a bolt, a nut and a bushing. 
Here's what it looks like when all is assembled. (hopefully this image will show) 








The lever arm attached the front axle (which in your photo is standing straight up at extreme right of frame) is attached to the height selector bracket through the upper hole on the lever.

In the McLane manual there are exploded views of the mower and numbered listings of all the parts. Sometimes the parts are described in physical dimensions that are marked with an asterisk indicating that you may be able to buy a part close enough or just right at a hardware store. The bolt that joins the lever arm with the height selector bracket is McLane catalog part #7050. It is described with an asterisk (meaning it's standard hardware) as a 5/16" - 18 x 3/4" Bolt.
The nut for that is part # 1075-A and is described as 5/16"-18 Nut. The spacer bushing the bolt sticks through is part #1099. It is not described 
Recent model McLane's have a square base on that bolt, and a matching square hole on the adjustment bracket. Your photo shows a round hole in the bracket. So ordering that bolt from McLane wouldn't work right on your mower, unless you replaced the adjustment bracket as well. But with the description of the parts you should be able to source some basic hardware that would work. The spacer bushing (I called it a sleeve bearing in a post above) might be harder to find locally. That surrounds the bolt in the hole in the lever arm. Need something with an outer diameter that fits the hole in the lever and has an inner diameter to acommodate the bolt you use, and which isn't too long.

The drive lever, if you mean the lever on the right handlebar that engages the self-propelling wheels, which are the five stacked wheels in the rear center of mower, should stay down once thrown. The clutch lever on left handlebar on the other hand must be held in for any of the engine power to reach the reel or the wheels, unless the clutch system is out of whack. Let go of the left lever and everything important should stop turning. The right hand lever for wheel engagement must be pulled back in a timely fashion to disengage the drive, as you head for end of row, brick edging, concrete gutters etc.


----------



## quadmasta

Thanks for the thorough feedback!

I'll get out the calipers and find a bronze bushing that'll work and order that from McMaster.

Sounds like I need to adjust the self-propelling mechanism a bit. In the picture you posted it looks like it's about 90 degrees relative to the handles when it's not engaged. When it is engaged should it be pointing more or less inline with the handles?

I got the reel chain replaced but realized I should've gotten the drive belt as that one's stretched too. I'll get that tomorrow

My next worry is the bed knife. It measures 3 3/8" straight across and it's not worn flat yet, there's a bit of material left. With a straight edge across the blade from front to back the little dip measures 7/32" I'd REALLY hate to have to replace the bed knife to the tune of $145 + shipping on a mower I paid $120 for  Is this able to be re-ground and used again?


----------



## SGrabs33

Man they have really jacked up the replacement parts cost for these over the last few years!


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

quadmasta said:


> Sounds like I need to adjust the self-propelling mechanism a bit. In the picture you posted it looks like it's about 90 degrees relative to the handles when it's not engaged. When it is engaged should it be pointing more or less inline with the handles?


The drive is engaged by dropping the roller wheels to the ground, and disengaged by lifting them. The handle is forward in the picture I posted above showing that the wheels are down. When the engine is off, dropping the wheels can act like a parking brake to prevent the mower from rolling away on smooth pavement.

In the picture below the drive wheels are up and the handle is back.








You can see the little bracket behind the wheels is pointed up in this image, the wheels are up off the ground, and the handle is back. When the wheels are down, the bracket is dropped parallel to the ground and handle is forward. I've never had to repair or adjust the linkage between the handle and that bracket, so I don't really understand how it's all put together.
I'm not where I can measure that spacer bushing but I'd say it can't be more than 1/2 in. You can see one of them in a photo upthread sticking through the upper hole on the lever arm (but the bolt it's supposed to surround is in the lower hole)
When you replace the rubber drive belt, you will need to find the right balance of tension from the clutch spring and the adjustable tension rod that attaches to the clutch handle up at the handlebars. When the tension is right, nothing will spin (neither the reel nor drive wheels) unless the clutch handle is held in. The bracket that anchors the spring can be bent to help find the balance, but it's mainly a trick of adjusting the length of the two sections of the tension rod by means of the nut in the middle of the rod. Watch that spring bracket. It can be bent for adjustment - but it also will bend itself out of adjustment over time, possibly resulting in the spring suddenly flying off and other unwanted consequences like the reel turning even when the clutch isn't pulled in.


----------



## quadmasta

I tore the mower down so I could fix a bunch of rust problems and found a few issues I wasn't aware of before. 
The axle bearing on one side wasn't turning at all and has worn the axle shaft so I'll have to get a new shaft. Why wouldn't McLane use sealed bearings for this? 
It looks like the bolts that hold the jackshaft bearing housing on may have been installed improperly.
The dead man idler was not adjusted properly and when the clutch lever wasn't engaged the idler was rubbing against the jack shaft pulley. I didn't see anything in the assembly that would've kept the idler from doing that so maybe I'm missing parts. Is there anything missing from this assembly?



How do I figure out when my mower was manufactured? Some of the parts say pre/post 1990/1991 but I have no clue when mine is from.


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

The engine, if it's a Briggs, will have a serial number stamped on it the first two digits of which are a year code. But of course there could have been an engine swap along the way. If you can find the serial number of the mower somwhere on the chassis, then McLane customer service could help you figure out if it's pre '91 or not. As far as I know that only concerns the bedknife design. But since they sell pre- '91 bedknives as replacement parts it's in their financial interest to be helpful to you. Alls I can say on that subject is "try and be patient". email [email protected]

You can find an exploded view diagram of the mclane mower in the manual for your model at mclaneedgers.com
If they've buried the manuals at mclane.com this link should still work:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/672181/Mclane-20.html?page=12#manual


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

quadmasta said:


> The dead man idler was not adjusted properly and when the clutch lever wasn't engaged the idler was rubbing against the jack shaft pulley. I didn't see anything in the assembly that would've kept the idler from doing that so maybe I'm missing parts. Is there anything missing from this assembly?


So much of the mower is disassembled there it's difficult for me to say what might be missing. But if by _"the idler was rubbing against the jack shaft pulley..." _you mean that the idler pulley was pushing in on the belt when the clutch wasn't pulled in, then that sounds to me like there's too much tension on the rubber belt despite the clutch being "out" and so the reel spins when it's not supposed to. In my limited experience in the replacement of that rubber belt, you have to adjust the nut on the long rod between clutch lever and belt to arrive at the correct behavior: clutch in- then reel + drive wheels get power, clutch out - belt won't grip onto the pulley, and the reel and wheels don't spin. Anyway you are obviously more adventuresome and mechanically adept than I am, so I'll shut up and hope someone who really knows about this will chime in. That bent over bracket attached to the spring can be adjusted some, too. If you were to buy a new one, you would find it's not bent as it comes from the factory, and you must mangle it in order to get the system to work at all. It's like a cotter pin that's meant to be bent up like a pretzel on installation. That's all fine once you know, but since they're pliable the bracket and spring will get loose over time, requiring re-adjustment or replacement.


----------



## quadmasta

Thanks for the info. Where on my engine should I look for the serial number?

If it helps to identify when my mower was manufactured the rear axle doesn't have any adjustments on the side of the mower like I've seen in several height adjustment threads.

To clarify about the parts making contact, the idler pulley (to the left in my picture) was touching the jack shaft pulley (to the right in my picture) when the clutch wasn't engaged; metal on metal contact. From your description it sounds like the turnbuckle needs to be adjusted so that there's more pre-load on the idler pulley but not enough that it's actually engaging the clutch. I'm pretty sure this would keep it from touching and there's a happy medium in there.

This is everything's current status; doused in citristrip and waiting for it to do its thing. Then it'll be wire wheel and primer spraying time.


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

Based on this page at B&S, I would look for the serial and model # to be stamped into the metal cover adjacent to the spark plug.
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/need-help/other-engines.html
The only serial number I've ever actually seen on the mclanes (I mean a serial# for the mower itself) that I use is a sticker on the deck on the clutch side.

There's no easy adjustment of the rear axle position on a mclane of whatever vintage. So if you were looking for some kind of control or release that swaps the rear axle position as a way of distinguishing post- from pre- '91 examples, there definitely isn't one. I'm not sure if the pre-91s don't allow you to move the rear axle to a second position, but the only provision for moving it on post-'91s is some holes on the side plate. The typical end user like myself is expected to be able to move the front axle on his own, but the manual advises us to get a shop to perform the rear axle mod.
I don't know how to tell earlier from later machines, except that I know bedknife design is different. 
This a partial view of the pre-91 bedknife:








This second image is of a post 91 beknife








If your bedknife doesn't have that added strip along the back edge of the bottom, then your machine was made pre-1991.


----------



## quadmasta

The bed knives are otherwise interchangeable if the grass shield is also changed? My grass shield is pretty much destroyed from rust and I think it'd be not worth spending the time to repair it.


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

I don't know that there is any difference besides that strip - but I also don't know that there isn't. It's just the one difference I can see from pictures.


----------



## quadmasta

Here's my serial number. I keep forgetting to look at the engine.



In this photo you can see my side plates. They're different from the ones in every instruction manual or exploded parts diagram I can find. I'm pretty sure I found a non-McLane source for the flanged bearings that press into the sides but I haven't found a source or even part number for the bearings that hold the axles into the axle hangers.


You can see on this link from McLaneMower.com that the side plate design changed and the axle is held in place differently. On mine there's a circlip on the one side and a sprocket on the chain side. 
https://www.mclaneedgers.com/product/sideplate-left/


----------



## quadmasta

Here's the flywheel cover on the engine that's on the mower. Looks like the mower's an 1984 model; almost as old as I am.


----------



## quadmasta

Down to the last few parts. I'm getting ready to order bearings but I can't figure out how to get the reel bearing off of the reel. There's a little cup to keep debris out of the bearing that's on the reel that's preventing me from pulling the bearing off. Has anyone done this before?


----------



## JRS 9572

So here I am. Still trying to get my 2 McLane's back in business. 1 of them I lost the carraige bolt (square underside of bolt head) so I can get reel roller on. I just made another order of parts from Dolphin OPE. Hopefully, I've got the right one coming or I'm off to the family owned hardware store to see what I can get to work.

The other issue. I've mentioned it before. The 2nd McLane last fall would have a problem where the reel would stop moving. So I figured it was the belt which looked really worn. As I changed the belt I noticed that the middle tires were worn down to the nub, and the sprocket that comes off the belt drive is worn to the nub. See pics below:

Here's the 1st mower's sprocket that has not been used that much.



Here's the 2nd one that's worn to the nub



Now I have the belt drive, shaft, and sprocket coming in, a new chain, and I already have the little 5 tires rea. But I'm trying to think of why the tires and sprockets wore down so much. I had a previous McLane. Used it for over 10 years. Never had any noticable wear on the sprocket or tires. The only difference I can come up with is that my previous yards were flat, and less square feet to cut. I have inclined galore now, and 7700 square feet. Here's some pics from over the years to give you an idea of the inclines I have.











Could be at the end of the day I'm outkicking the McLane's coverage? Also I'm going to look at the throttle speed of the engine as well. It often can choke down cutting, and never seems to be idling at the speed I remember when it's at full throttle. Or it seems to have less power than the previous model.

Any ideas or thoughts? I'm sending up the "Bat Signal" on Saturday. My father and my father in law (two good mechanics) are coming to help. Also here's a pic of the area of the mower I'm talking about just to make sure it's clear what sprocket I'm referencing.


----------



## James

Just got a new to me McLane 20" reel. Was going to change the oil, is there a specific oil that I should use?


----------



## JRS 9572

I've picked up the briggs and stratton oil at Lowe's. It should hold 20 ounces.


----------



## wartee

@JRS 9572

That sprocket is worn only because of two possible reasons. The chain was out of adjustment and/or the chain was worn out and stretched. Once they are really worn the rollers will start riding up the teeth and eventually wear them down.


----------



## wartee

wartee said:


> @JRS 9572
> 
> That sprocket is worn only because of two possible reasons. The chain was out of adjustment and/or the chain was worn out and stretched. Once they are really worn the rollers will start riding up the teeth and eventually wear them down.
> [/qu@JRS 9572
> 
> One other possibility, but unlikely, is the bearing that shaft rides on is worn out, making the sprocket flop around.


----------



## quadmasta

wartee said:


> One other possibility, but unlikely, is the bearing that shaft rides on is worn out, making the sprocket flop around.


The jack shaft has double bearings between the pulley and the sprocket. I agree it'd be highly unlikely for that to be the cause. It's more likely that the chain is worn out.


----------



## JRS 9572

I bought a replacement chain as well. I'm employ the shotgun method when repairing stuff "what's broken and everything in the vicinity."

After receiving the sprocket last night I realize even the other mower is having the same issue. The sprockets are more like spikes. In other words they have wear as well.

Thanks for everyone's input.


----------



## JRS 9572

When I 1st moved in my new home. I had occasion to hit rocks in the turf with both mowers. Could that have taken it out of alignment?


----------



## JRS 9572

@wartee @quadmasta 
Appreciate the help. Spend 9 hours Saturday with my father in law in my garage getting the two McLane mowers right. The chains were stretched and that was the problem. We replaced the chains, sprockets, and belts on both mowers. We also replaced the set up 5 tires, in the back, on one. Also backlapped them both.

Both are running like a champ and I have scalped my yard.

My father in law suggested I check the chains periodically, and replace them at the 1st sign of stretching.

My wife said "I'm glad those things are fixed. I'm tired of you always being in a bad mood becuase they're not working."

Thanks again for the help! And @Ware appreciate the delivery of the hats. I put one heck of a salty sweat ring on mine yesterday.


----------



## quadmasta

No problem. I've read that depending on how much you use the mower the high speed chains should be replaced pretty regularly. If the reel chain has stretched then replace the one off of the jack shaft too as they turn at roughly the same speed. The drive chain can go longer since there's a pretty big speed reduction there.


----------



## JRS 9572

quadmasta said:


> No problem. I've read that depending on how much you use the mower the high speed chains should be replaced pretty regularly. If the reel chain has stretched then replace the one off of the jack shaft too as they turn at roughly the same speed. The drive chain can go longer since there's a pretty big speed reduction there.


Here's the crazy thing. The chain that was on the sprocket to drive the reel had no "link" to take the chain apart. We searched forever, and finally cut it off with bolt cutters. The replacement chain had a link to make it a complete loop. Bizarre.


----------



## NoslracNevok

scarlso2 said:


> So I really wanted to find a way to backlap without fitting something to the sprocket or removing it. Here's what I came up with. Maybe I spent more time than it'll save since I'll probably only backlap once a season, but I like tinkering and it works great!
> 
> I drilled a 5/16" hole in the cylindrical shaft (dead center) 1/2" deep, used a 3/8" left hand tap to thread the hole, and used a 3/8" x 1/2" bolt. Left hand so it'll tighten as I'm backlapping. Seems like it works great, the cover fits on fine.. I just backlapped and I'm happy with it.


@scarlso2 What tool did you use to drill the 5/16" hole?


----------



## The_iHenry

Spammage said:


> aug0211 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Am I a good candidate for a reel, or is every reel going to require a ton of maintenance and fiddling?
> 
> 
> 
> I originally thought the same thing, but the tinkering is done with the intention of making the lawn better. Mowing with a rotary is something you have to do, but cutting with a reel is something you look forward to. Once you get the reel, you will understand the obsession is real.
Click to expand...

Well said brotha...

Well said


----------



## scarlso2

NoslracNevok said:


> scarlso2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I really wanted to find a way to backlap without fitting something to the sprocket or removing it. Here's what I came up with. Maybe I spent more time than it'll save since I'll probably only backlap once a season, but I like tinkering and it works great!
> 
> I drilled a 5/16" hole in the cylindrical shaft (dead center) 1/2" deep, used a 3/8" left hand tap to thread the hole, and used a 3/8" x 1/2" bolt. Left hand so it'll tighten as I'm backlapping. Seems like it works great, the cover fits on fine.. I just backlapped and I'm happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @scarlso2 What tool did you use to drill the 5/16" hole?
Click to expand...

@NoslracNevok I just used a regular bit


----------



## NoslracNevok

@scarlso2 I mean, did you use a press, or a hand drill?


----------



## The_iHenry

I made a back lapping tool for my McLane. 





Pretty basic but it works.


----------



## NoslracNevok

@The_iHenry this is a great idea. Did you purposely make on of the holes slotted to adjust for an easy snug fit? Is the drill bit welded, or attached some other way?

Looks similar (below) to the tool Reelrollers sell. I asked yesterday if they sell just the tool w/o part of their kit, haven't heard back.



Awesome workbench btw. 👌


----------



## The_iHenry

NoslracNevok said:


> @The_iHenry this is a great idea. Did you purposely make on of the holes slotted to adjust for an easy snug fit? Is the drill bit welded, or attached some other way?
> 
> Looks similar (below) to the tool Reelrollers sell. I asked yesterday if they sell just the tool w/o part of their kit, haven't heard back.
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome workbench btw. 👌


Yes I did. When I made it I didn't have access to the sprocket. The drill bit is actually a removable 7/16 nut driver. 


Also thanks it's made entirely from pallets


----------



## scarlso2

NoslracNevok said:


> @scarlso2 I mean, did you use a press, or a hand drill?


@NoslracNevok Just a hand drill


----------



## Sparton

So I just picked up this old Mclane. I don't know much about it other than the motor is shot. Is this guy too far gone to get back in useable shape?


----------



## quadmasta

"Motor is shot" meaning what? Unless it threw a rod, the B&S motors are REALLY easy to rebuild if it's even that far gone. It's pre-91 and your grass deflector's not all rusty so that's good. Your bedknife looks like it's got plenty of life left in it and that looks like a 10 blade reel. The drive tires look brand new. That motor's probably the original one; on the back of the flywheel cover by the gas tank it'll be stamped with a date code


----------



## BlackOut

quadmasta said:


> "Motor is shot" meaning what? Unless it threw a rod, the B&S motors are REALLY easy to rebuild if it's even that far gone. It's pre-91 and your grass deflector's not all rusty so that's good. Your bedknife looks like it's got plenty of life left in it and that looks like a 10 blade reel. The drive tires look brand new. That motor's probably the original one; on the back of the flywheel cover by the gas tank it'll be stamped with a date code


Is pre-91 more desirable for some reason?

Is a ten blade preferred or over a 7 blade?

I agree, I would have that mower running in no time. Probably just needs a carb clean, tune, sharpening to be good to go. May not oook pretty, but I prefer functionality and economical.


----------



## quadmasta

Some parts changed after 91 namely the bedknife and grass deflector. There's some other stuff that changed pretty drastically like the rear axle setup. It's just good to know for when/if you need parts.

10 blade's meant for lower HOC and are usually considered "greens" mowers. This one's got some bastardized roller on the front of it instead of the usual grooved one. It's also completely missing any height adjustment capability due to how the roller was installed. This one looks like a 20" someone put a 10 blade reel on. the 17" greens mowers usually have a knob for height adjustment and in that last picture you can see the regular lever-based HOC adjustment.


----------



## Sparton

Thank y'all for information gentlemen. I want to make it run. It's sat for five years at a co workers house who never did anything with it. I was with him the day he was given the mower and the previous owner is the one who deemed the motor "shot". I'll have to clean the carb and go from there.


----------



## quadmasta

Sparton said:


> Thank y'all for information gentlemen. I want to make it run. It's sat for five years at a co workers house who never did anything with it. I was with him the day he was given the mower and the previous owner is the one who deemed the motor "shot". I'll have to clean the carb and go from there.


There's only about 4 parts to that carb. The diaphragm is probably shot but everything else can be cleaned with carb cleaner. Before you try starting it, dump the gas out of the tank and inspect it and the pickups/bowl for rust. If there's any rust you can try treating it with vinegar and still may have problems or replace it with a new one and never put gas in it that's not stabilized and never store it anything but completely full.


----------



## Sidney

Putt-Putt-Putt - cuts off. So anytime I had an issue with my mowers or lawn equipment, my dad would fix it and try to show me some stuff. But he passed back in 2017 and now I need some help. So my McLane was last serviced back in 2016. No tune-up since then. The other day when I was cutting, it started sputtering on me and then cut off. I can start it back up but it cuts back off within a few seconds. What am I looking at here? Bad gas, something in the carburetor, gas line stopped up, spark plug? And if it is any of those, can you help me out with a DIY?


----------



## JRS 9572

My father in law was like your dad. I'm going to miss him when he's gone.

Shotgun it. Change the plug, and air filter. They're cheap. Siphon out the old gas. Go get gas without ethanol and pour in the gas tank. I say do it all because it's due, and it's inexpensive to change these things. 
Crank your mower without the air filter on it. I've been able to make it turnover and grind through old gas that way. If all else fails take the air filter off, and pour a little bit of gas in the hole on top. 
Doing the above with air filter off and pouring gas my father in law got a McLane to crank with 3 year old gas in it earlier this month. It smoked, spit stuff out. But once it plowed through the nasty stuff it's run like a champ since.


----------



## BlackOut

Sidney said:


> Putt-Putt-Putt - cuts off. So anytime I had an issue with my mowers or lawn equipment, my dad would fix it and try to show me some stuff. But he passed back in 2017 and now I need some help. So my McLane was last serviced back in 2016. No tune-up since then. The other day when I was cutting, it started sputtering on me and then cut off. I can start it back up but it cuts back off within a few seconds. What am I looking at here? Bad gas, something in the carburetor, gas line stopped up, spark plug? And if it is any of those, can you help me out with a DIY?


Did you leave gas stored in it? Did you drain the old fuel?... Never mind this part, I just saw that you were actively cutting with it. Does it have good compression? What is the condition of the spark plug? Air filter stopped up or clear?

If you left it stored with fuel in it, the fuel probably went bad and has (partially) stopped up the carburetor. I would clean/rebuild the carburetor, flush the fuel tank, check the fuel line, put a new spark plug and air filter and try to find some non-ethanol fuel (go to puregas.com). Should be a pretty easy fix once you acquire the needed items. I haven't ever pulled a carb on a mclane, but I believe I remember reading there is a diaphragm. I would go ahead and see if you can get a kit and just go through it and do it right. As long as you don't store fuel in it over the winter or at least fill it completely with non-ethanol and a stabilizer, it should last you for years to come. I bet there are some youtube videos on rebuilding or cleaning that carb. They are usually really simple, just have to keep an eye on small items, make sure you remember or take pictures of where they all go and don't forget any pieces.


----------



## Pamboys09

Quick question how often do mclanes needa to replace the blades? Because i saw online its expensive 400-500,

Or most of the time they just need sharpening?

The reason i asked is im considering buying used.

Thanks


----------



## The_iHenry

Pamboys09 said:


> Quick question how often do mclanes needa to replace the blades? Because i saw online its expensive 400-500,
> 
> Or most of the time they just need sharpening?
> 
> The reason i asked is im considering buying used.
> 
> Thanks


mostly just a quick backlap once at the beginning of the season then maybe midway but it probably won't need it.


----------



## Pamboys09

I need help fellow TLF,

I meet someone on craiglist to check their mclain. They told me they bought it from someone who bought it new. They put it on storage for awhile since they dont have grass no more.

Below is the image of the blade.. theres a few rust on the blade and the blade on the bottom(bedknife?)

I test if it will cut a paper, on the right it cuts, in the middle and left it just fold the paper.

I tried to negotiate and the lowest he can take is 250

Is this worth it or just moved on to the next??


----------



## The_iHenry

Pamboys09 said:


> I need help fellow TLF,
> 
> I meet someone on craiglist to check their mclain. They told me they bought it from someone who bought it new. They put it on storage for awhile since they dont have grass no more.
> 
> Below is the image of the blade.. theres a few rust on the blade and the blade on the bottom(bedknife?)
> 
> I test if it will cut a paper, on the right it cuts, in the middle and left it just fold the paper.
> 
> I tried to negotiate and the lowest he can take is 250
> 
> Is this worth it or just moved on to the next??


Does the engine run good?

It's probably out of alignment. Check the bed knife make sure it looks straight. It probably just needs a backlap.


----------



## Pamboys09

22


----------



## Pamboys09

The_iHenry said:


> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I need help fellow TLF,
> 
> I meet someone on craiglist to check their mclain. They told me they bought it from someone who bought it new. They put it on storage for awhile since they dont have grass no more.
> 
> Below is the image of the blade.. theres a few rust on the blade and the blade on the bottom(bedknife?)
> 
> I test if it will cut a paper, on the right it cuts, in the middle and left it just fold the paper.
> 
> I tried to negotiate and the lowest he can take is 250
> 
> Is this worth it or just moved on to the next??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does the engine run good?
> 
> It's probably out of alignment. Check the bed knife make sure it looks straight. It probably just needs a backlap.
Click to expand...

the engine works in first pull, they lower the controls on the middle and the engine turns off. is that normal?

Wait bed knife is the one that touches the blades to cut the grass correct?

if its straight is it worth to buy it for a $250?, it has 4.5 briggs engine.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Pamboys09 yes, that should cut the engine.

It looks like a descent machine with not too much use. You will probably want to get the front roller attachment eventually. That will cost around another $145. Sounds like the blades just need a backlap. Are you planning on doing the servicing yourself?


----------



## Pamboys09

SGrabs33 said:


> @Pamboys09 yes, that should cut the engine.
> 
> It looks like a descent machine with not too much use. You will probably want to get the front roller attachment eventually. That will cost around another $145. Sounds like the blades just need a backlap. Are you planning on doing the servicing yourself?


I'm planning to make this one as my project, yes im going to put a roller
Backlap? is that the video in this thread? for the rust that's normal correct?


----------



## Pamboys09

It has a 4.5 briggs engine, does it mean its newer? or not really?


----------



## Jayray

You should be able to find the manual online somewhere using the size/engine and possibly the serial number. The market for these things is highly localized. Depending on where you live in California there are probably quite a few for sale. I wouldn't put too much money into it because the chances are very high that you will want something better (some kind of greens mower)sooner rather than later. If it starts and cuts that would be good enough for me to buy and tinker with.


----------



## Gdfein

Found a Mclane 20" for sale for $50.

Listing says it doesn't run and needs an Engine recoil housing, complete fuel tank and carburetor assembly.

I have no idea what this would cost to obtain parts and have serviced. Any thoughts if this is worth it?

I'm not a great DIY person but I can turn a screw driver and ratchet, but rebuilding an engine is beyond my skills.


----------



## Sidney

BlackOut said:


> Sidney said:
> 
> 
> 
> Putt-Putt-Putt - cuts off. So anytime I had an issue with my mowers or lawn equipment, my dad would fix it and try to show me some stuff. But he passed back in 2017 and now I need some help. So my McLane was last serviced back in 2016. No tune-up since then. The other day when I was cutting, it started sputtering on me and then cut off. I can start it back up but it cuts back off within a few seconds. What am I looking at here? Bad gas, something in the carburetor, gas line stopped up, spark plug? And if it is any of those, can you help me out with a DIY?
> 
> 
> 
> Did you leave gas stored in it? Did you drain the old fuel?... Never mind this part, I just saw that you were actively cutting with it. Does it have good compression? What is the condition of the spark plug? Air filter stopped up or clear?
> 
> If you left it stored with fuel in it, the fuel probably went bad and has (partially) stopped up the carburetor. I would clean/rebuild the carburetor, flush the fuel tank, check the fuel line, put a new spark plug and air filter and try to find some non-ethanol fuel (go to puregas.com). Should be a pretty easy fix once you acquire the needed items. I haven't ever pulled a carb on a mclane, but I believe I remember reading there is a diaphragm. I would go ahead and see if you can get a kit and just go through it and do it right. As long as you don't store fuel in it over the winter or at least fill it completely with non-ethanol and a stabilizer, it should last you for years to come. I bet there are some youtube videos on rebuilding or cleaning that carb. They are usually really simple, just have to keep an eye on small items, make sure you remember or take pictures of where they all go and don't forget any pieces.
Click to expand...

I think I have had my mower for 8 years, I think. And I always left gas in it over the winter. Never had a problem until now. But i remember watching my dad mess with the carburetor before on both lawn mowers and weed eaters so I'm gonna try and do and hopefully my inner George Wallace will come out and get this thing right.


----------



## Sidney

Does anyone know the cross reference spark plug for NHSP LD F6REC4? Can't find anything online.


----------



## BlackOut

Sidney said:


> BlackOut said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sidney said:
> 
> 
> 
> Putt-Putt-Putt - cuts off. So anytime I had an issue with my mowers or lawn equipment, my dad would fix it and try to show me some stuff. But he passed back in 2017 and now I need some help. So my McLane was last serviced back in 2016. No tune-up since then. The other day when I was cutting, it started sputtering on me and then cut off. I can start it back up but it cuts back off within a few seconds. What am I looking at here? Bad gas, something in the carburetor, gas line stopped up, spark plug? And if it is any of those, can you help me out with a DIY?
> 
> 
> 
> Did you leave gas stored in it? Did you drain the old fuel?... Never mind this part, I just saw that you were actively cutting with it. Does it have good compression? What is the condition of the spark plug? Air filter stopped up or clear?
> 
> If you left it stored with fuel in it, the fuel probably went bad and has (partially) stopped up the carburetor. I would clean/rebuild the carburetor, flush the fuel tank, check the fuel line, put a new spark plug and air filter and try to find some non-ethanol fuel (go to puregas.com). Should be a pretty easy fix once you acquire the needed items. I haven't ever pulled a carb on a mclane, but I believe I remember reading there is a diaphragm. I would go ahead and see if you can get a kit and just go through it and do it right. As long as you don't store fuel in it over the winter or at least fill it completely with non-ethanol and a stabilizer, it should last you for years to come. I bet there are some youtube videos on rebuilding or cleaning that carb. They are usually really simple, just have to keep an eye on small items, make sure you remember or take pictures of where they all go and don't forget any pieces.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think I have had my mower for 8 years, I think. And I always left gas in it over the winter. Never had a problem until now. But i remember watching my dad mess with the carburetor before on both lawn mowers and weed eaters so I'm gonna try and do and hopefully my inner George Wallace will come out and get this thing right.
Click to expand...

Newer ethanol fuels can go "bad" in as little as 30 days. It loves to clog jets and orfices in carburetors. Good luck.


----------



## Pamboys09

I visit one seller and pulled the trigger on my FIRST reel mower. So excited and happy.

He bought this mclane and only use a few times before moving to a new property, he hired a gardener so he no longer need the mower. Very humble and kind person. He gave it to me for $275

Anyway heres the mower. Just need to clean.


----------



## Sparton

Man that's a beautiful mower for a steal of a price. Congratulations!


----------



## Ldware9

I just bought an older model McLane for $150. Starts on the first pull and blades were sharp. Used for the first time today.


----------



## Pamboys09

Ldware9 said:


> I just bought an older model McLane for $150. Starts on the first pull and blades were sharp. Used for the first time today.


That was sharp!!

Guys i bought mine but it doesnt start he said he left in storage with gas.. can it be gas clogged it ?? Should i drain it and try again or send to serviced?

Anyway im excited to use this

There she go after cleaning 😁


----------



## Ldware9

With the gas used now a days with ethanol in it. Chances are the lines are clogged and you may have a thick lacquer in the fuel system. Happened to my snowblower. I have to send it to the repair shop to have the fuel system cleaned cause of the lacquer build up.

The model I have has a metal basket and 2 identical levers at the top to operate the blades and drive wheels. If anyone know how old the model I have is please inform me, I would like to know. All I know from the previous owners son is it is more than 30yrs old.


----------



## Pamboys09

Ldware9 said:


> With the gas used now a days with ethanol in it. Chances are the lines are clogged and you may have a thick lacquer in the fuel system. Happened to my snowblower. I have to send it to the repair shop to have the fuel system cleaned cause of the lacquer build up.
> 
> The model I have has a metal basket and 2 identical levers at the top to operate the blades and drive wheels. If anyone know how old the model I have is please inform me, I would like to know. All I know from the previous owners son is it is more than 30yrs old.


got it thank you, will send it to service, also i see a gap between the bottom blade and the cylinder blade. that one should be adjusted correct?

on your post. im not really familiar with that maybe some veterans here or expert can assist you.

thank you!


----------



## SGrabs33

@Pamboys09 I would def drain it first and try again. Might save you 100 bucks. The engine isn't very old so it may just need fresh gas.


----------



## Pamboys09

SGrabs33 said:


> @Pamboys09 I would def drain it first and try again. Might save you 100 bucks. The engine isn't very old so it may just need fresh gas.


I already make it work, theres lots of debris in the carb 
Anyway quick question when the mower is running do i need to move the choke to the left??? I notice the machine stops whenver i do this...... Is this normal? Should i leave the choke on the right?
Heres the link..


----------



## The_iHenry

Pamboys09 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Pamboys09 I would def drain it first and try again. Might save you 100 bucks. The engine isn't very old so it may just need fresh gas.
> 
> 
> 
> I already make it work, theres lots of debris in the carb
> Anyway quick question when the mower is running do i need to move the choke to the left??? I notice the machine stops whenver i do this...... Is this normal? Should i leave the choke on the right?
> Heres the link..
Click to expand...

Thats normal. Leave it the way it was when mowing.


----------



## Sidney

So I took the carb off Saturday, looked inside both sides, emptied out the fuel, checked the hose to make sure nothing was in there, dusted off the air filter, changed the spark plug, put everything back together, put some gas in it and it started up and it ran fine. Cut front and back yard with no issues. I did clean it off for the first time in 8 years. There are so many places for grass and dirt to hide on this lawn mower. Maybe the cleaning and changing the spark plug was all it needed.


----------



## Pamboys09

I test blade to reel on my mclane and it doesnt cut paper.
The blade are looks new and the bed knife.

Quick question
When done backlapping, should i lock the bolts in that place or do i still need to adjust it? Hope it makes sense.

Thanks


----------



## The_iHenry

Pamboys09 said:


> I test blade to reel on my mclane and it doesnt cut paper.
> The blade are looks new and the bed knife.
> 
> Quick question
> When done backlapping, should i lock the bolts in that place or do i still need to adjust it? Hope it makes sense.
> 
> Thanks


I believe @Redtenchu made a video on backlapping a McLane.






Not a McLane but same thing. I think its a three part video.


----------



## JRS 9572

Loosed the bolts on each side. Get a long wooden dowel, or a long piece of 1X1 plywood/trim. Take a mallet and tap the center bar of the reel to get it closer to contact, then back lap. When you're pleased with where you have it after backlapping, then tighten the bolt on each side. It's one bolt on each side.


----------



## Pamboys09

JRS 9572 said:


> Loosed the bolts on each side. Get a long wooden dowel, or a long piece of 1X1 plywood/trim. Take a mallet and tap the center bar of the reel to get it closer to contact, then back lap. When you're pleased with where you have it after backlapping, then tighten the bolt on each side. It's one bolt on each side.


I see so after done with backlap i dont need to tap it again, instead just tighten it up and do the paper test.

1. Is the paper test very important?
2. Is it normal for the cyclinder reel to touch the bed knife and make little sound?

Thanks all


----------



## JRS 9572

It should make a light sound where you can hear the reel and the bed knife touching.

I do the paper test before tightening up. Sometimes I have to tap in one side more than the other so it will cut paper all the way across.

Yes I'd like it to cut paper. Is it the end all be all? No. But you at least want to make sure it's close. Otherwise you will have yellow tipped bermuda. You grass will be ripped instead of cut.


----------



## Pamboys09

JRS 9572 said:


> It should make a light sound where you can hear the reel and the bed knife touching.
> 
> I do the paper test before tightening up. Sometimes I have to tap in one side more than the other so it will cut paper all the way across.
> 
> Yes I'd like it to cut paper. Is it the end all be all? No. But you at least want to make sure it's close. Otherwise you will have yellow tipped bermuda. You grass will be ripped instead of cut.


If one side cut paper, do you tighten those right away and just tap the other side until it cut paper? Or tighten when both are cutting?


----------



## JRS 9572

I've tightened when both are cutting. Mind you I never knew of an "official" way, and just muddled my way through it.


----------



## Pamboys09

JRS 9572 said:


> I've tightened when both are cutting. Mind you I never knew of an "official" way, and just muddled my way through it.


got it, i bought some backflap kit. 
How can i know if the im done putting the sharpening paste? (Black stuff)

Also how often you backflap?

Thanks!


----------



## NoslracNevok

You are choking it when you move it left/back. I only choke it when starting, then immediately let the choke off. @P@Pamboys09


----------



## Pamboys09

NoslracNevok said:


> You are choking it when you move it left/back. I only choke it when starting, then immediately let the choke off. @[email protected]


Got it thanks! 😃


----------



## ctrav

erdons said:


> I was going to take in the mower to a local shop but figured $100-200, thought about a predator engine which would be a nice option but still $100-200. Checked Craigslist and found this bad boy for $30. Reel and bedknife are in excellent shape, engine idles down real nice. Mowed my lawn nice than my other machine ever had.


Nice score for $30...


----------



## wessneroo

McLane served me well for a handful of mows after picking it up this spring. Until yesterday when the jackshaft sprocket let go of the little bit of tooth it had left. Have a refurbished jackshaft on the way from eBay, but I figure the chain is shot too (probably caused the sprocket wear). Does anyone know if I can use off the shelf chain or do I have to special order a McLane part?

Warning... sprocket gore.


----------



## SGrabs33

wessneroo said:


> McLane served me well for a handful of mows after picking it up this spring. Until yesterday when the jackshaft sprocket let go of the little bit of tooth it had left. Have a refurbished jackshaft on the way from eBay, but I figure the chain is shot too (probably caused the sprocket wear). Does anyone know if I can use off the shelf chain or do I have to special order a McLane part?
> 
> Warning... sprocket gore.


Their website lists the chain as #41. I would take yours off and count the links. Then go online to amazon and find a #41 chain to buy that is long enough. Just make sure that when you are replacing it to match the # of links in the chain and not the length as it has probably stretched over the years.


----------



## The_iHenry

SGrabs33 said:


> Their website lists the chain as #41. I would take yours off and count the links. Then go online to amazon and find a #41 chain to buy that is long enough. Just make sure that when you are replacing it to match the # of links in the chain and not the length as it has probably stretched over the years.


Good advice :thumbup:


----------



## wessneroo

SGrabs33 said:


> Their website lists the chain as #41. I would take yours off and count the links. Then go online to amazon and find a #41 chain to buy that is long enough. Just make sure that when you are replacing it to match the # of links in the chain and not the length as it has probably stretched over the years.


Thanks @SGrabs33! Will report back on how it goes...


----------



## JRS 9572

wessneroo said:


> McLane served me well for a handful of mows after picking it up this spring. Until yesterday when the jackshaft sprocket let go of the little bit of tooth it had left. Have a refurbished jackshaft on the way from eBay, but I figure the chain is shot too (probably caused the sprocket wear). Does anyone know if I can use off the shelf chain or do I have to special order a McLane part?
> 
> Warning... sprocket gore.


I recently did this. I ordered the chain straight from McLane not wanting to take a chance on something not lining up. Yes the chain is loose. That's why the sprocket wore down. Put a new chain on. Getting the new sprocket lined up in the clamshell with 4 bolts is pretty important in making sure the chain is not slack going around the sprocket.


----------



## JRS 9572

RE: My Post on May 2nd about the worn out sprockets, and throwing chains. The one that Amazon damaged, and I replaced parts on has finally shown its real problem. A week or so ago the drive wheels that you deploy would bounce up suddenly on dips. My other McLane doesn't do that. Then suddenly the previously damaged one would have the chains running on the side with the belts, but the drive wheels and reel movement would be intermittent at best.

Well we found the problem. The axle was broken, probably in original damaged shipment, apparently the sprocket screws had been holding it together and the mower worked in spite of the issue. Then the set screw threads were worn down enough that it stopped working. Parts are on the way, and hopefully we've got the issue solved once and for all.


----------



## The_iHenry

JRS 9572 said:


> RE: My Post on May 2nd about the worn out sprockets, and throwing chains. The one that Amazon damaged, and I replaced parts on has finally shown its real problem. A week or so ago the drive wheels that you deploy would bounce up suddenly on dips. My other McLane doesn't do that. Then suddenly the previously damaged one would have the chains running on the side with the belts, but the drive wheels and reel movement would be intermittent at best.
> 
> Well we found the problem. The axle was broken, probably in original damaged shipment, apparently the sprocket screws had been holding it together and the mower worked in spite of the issue. Then the set screw threads were worn down enough that it stopped working. Parts are on the way, and hopefully we've got the issue solved once and for all.


good deal man hopefully you get it going soon because the grass is growing!


----------



## SwBermuda

Ladies and gents. Just purchased a used Mclane 20in 7 blade for 250. How do I check age etc? Started up perfectly. Haven't *********** or anything yet. Figure I'll go ahead and do an oil change while I'm at it and get her all cleaned up. Thanks for your help!


----------



## Pamboys09

SwBermuda said:


> Ladies and gents. Just purchased a used Mclane 20in 7 blade for 250. How do I check age etc? Started up perfectly. Haven't backlapped or anything yet. Figure I'll go ahead and do an oil change while I'm at it and get her all cleaned up. Thanks for your help!


I have the same question, guys how to know the age of the Mclane?

same here bought mclane $275.
Changed oil, clean carb, change belt and backlaped.


----------



## SGrabs33

Do you want to know the age so you can wish them a happy birthday? I don't think it matters too much as long as they are working/running well! Sounds like they are, congrats on the finds!

If you really want to know I'm guessing it's easiest to find out the age of the motor via the serial number. They you can assume they are a similar age :thumbup:


----------



## SwBermuda

SGrabs33 said:


> Do you want to know the age so you can wish them a happy birthday? I don't think it matters too much as long as they are working/running well! Sounds like they are, congrats on the finds!
> 
> If you really want to know I'm guessing it's easiest to find out the age of the motor via the serial number. They you can assume they are a similar age :thumbup:


Well forget the age but what should I do to the machine since I have no idea how it was cared for. How do I back lap a McLane? It def needs that. Still have Bermuda seed heads after one of my trial runs.


----------



## SGrabs33

SwBermuda said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you want to know the age so you can wish them a happy birthday? I don't think it matters too much as long as they are working/running well! Sounds like they are, congrats on the finds!
> 
> If you really want to know I'm guessing it's easiest to find out the age of the motor via the serial number. They you can assume they are a similar age :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> Well forget the age but what should I do to the machine since I have no idea how it was cared for. How do I back lap a McLane? It def needs that. Still have Bermuda seed heads after one of my trial runs.
Click to expand...

Oil change to start. Inspect the chains to see if they are working properly. Grease them up. Search YouTube for "McLane Backlap" and you will most likely find a great video by our own @Redtenchu!


----------



## The_iHenry

SwBermuda said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you want to know the age so you can wish them a happy birthday? I don't think it matters too much as long as they are working/running well! Sounds like they are, congrats on the finds!
> 
> If you really want to know I'm guessing it's easiest to find out the age of the motor via the serial number. They you can assume they are a similar age :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> Well forget the age but what should I do to the machine since I have no idea how it was cared for. How do I back lap a McLane? It def needs that. Still have Bermuda seed heads after one of my trial runs.
Click to expand...

Look through this very thread. I posted the YouTube link a few days ago. I'm sure someone else has shared the link also.


----------



## quadmasta

There's no surefire way to check age as most of them will have had their engines changed.

Most stuff that matters will be pre or post 1991. If your grass deflector has fingers that go half in front and half in back of the top edge of the bedknife it's pre. If it's all one solid piece and it goes behind the bedknife in a little channel it's post.

If you've got a Briggs engine you can look on the flywheel cover towards the carburetor and there will be numbers stamped on there. One of the sets of numbers will be the year and week the motor was produced. This is only when the engine was made so keep in mind it may not be the original


----------



## SwBermuda

OK so it seems my Mclane has an oil leak (I think). Posting pics below. Do I just tighten the bolt? Yes this thing is as messy as it can get. Will give it a good pressure wash today once I get the leak figured out


----------



## quadmasta

That looks more like a fuel leak to me. Does it smell like fuel or oil?


----------



## Bmossin

It looks like you are showing pictures of the carburetor bowl...that would be leaking gas, not oil...is that where it is leaking from? You can tighten that, or might have to get a new o-ring that seals it...if that is the leak.


----------



## SwBermuda

Good call def. a fuel smell. Yes the leak is coming from the carb bowl. I'll try and tighten the bolt first.


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

So, it took me years to confirm this suspicion but I just found out that the McLane mower manual is incorrect about the height of the top setting for axle position "A". Probably you guys have known all along and I'm the last to figure it out.

The manual states that the highest setting in the "A" range is 1 +1/16 inch. That has never made sense to me. The intervals between settings (1/4", 7/16", 5/8" and 1+1/16") are regularly spaced until the final stop. The intervals for "B" range (7/8", 1", 1+1/8" and 1+3/16") are more regularly spaced all the way through the range including the very top end. So I could never figure out how there could be a typical interval of 3/16" on the "A" range, but then suddenly at the top a gap of 7/16", which is more than twice as much. "B" range has a typical interval of 1/8" and then a smaller interval at the top of its range.

Does anyone know what is the actual height of the top setting for "A" axle position on a McLane 20" model, and could you tell me? I can't measure it. I confirmed my feeling that the manual was wrong by putting the axle on A and eyeballing the height with a ruler next to the mower. There's no putting the ruler inside the reel area to actually measure. Aside from being sure that the height is less than 1+1/16" I don't know what it is. I did cut a row, which was cut the day previously at 7/8", at this mystery "A" setting and got a spray of clippings.


----------



## JTCJC

@Groundskeeper Willie I just measured mine on Tuesday. Here are my settings



At notch number 2 (which I consider 3) I measured 5/8", which is where I mow.
At notch number 1 (my 2) I measured 1/2"
At my notch 1 (which is the large hole that is used to remove the bracket) I measured 3/8".

So my adjustments seem to be in 1/8" increments. I did not measure notch 3 or 4 but I can when I get home if you like.


----------



## JTCJC

I guess I never read the directions :shock: and I am supposed to move the notched lever position to B. I will try this tonight and see if changes the height to match the manual.


----------



## Pamboys09

The manual is very confusing, where is the cutting range located at??


----------



## JTCJC

Page 7 is where I got the image above.


----------



## SwBermuda

what diameter of a reel roller do you guys prefer? I have Common Bermuda. I found a welder who can do the job for me, just don't know what size to get for 20in Mclane 7 blade.


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

@JTCJC 
Thanks, what do you measure with?


----------



## JTCJC

I use a small precision machinist scale. It's hard to Jimmy it in there. I'm sure there is a better tool but I already own that. I measure on the smooth concrete floor of my garage.

I just measured notch 4 and it was 7/8" almost 15/16.

Lowered the notch lever to position A since the roller is on position A.

Diagram notch 1 is just over 3/8"
Diagram notch 2 is 5/8" exactly 
Diagram notch 3 is 3/4" exactly 
Diagram notch 4 is 7/8" exactly

With the screw in lever position A I cannot get it to lock into the large hole I was calling my position 1.


----------



## Sidney

Spring broke from the throttle. Help!


----------



## Sidney

Well, I just looked at it and I now know where it hooks on the other side. But while I was trying to find that out, I also noticed that I need a new belt. There is a big notch on the underside of the belt. Was there a write up on how to change the belt?


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

@JTCJC 
Thanks for that. I know moving that notched lever from one position to the other is no fun. The first time I did that I had cramps in one hand for days.


----------



## JTCJC

That stinks! Looks like the clutch spring.

Mclane 1052-D Reel Lawn Mower Clutch Return Spring and Bracket Genuine Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Part https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TD66F38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YjUaDbTFV6W16

:roll: at the shipping....


----------



## JTCJC

Groundskeeper Willie said:


> @JTCJC
> Thanks for that. I know moving that notched lever from one position to the other is no fun. The first time I did that I had cramps in one hand for days.


No worries. Wanted to know anyway. Actually I think I'll move it back. The "A" position skips 1/2" and keeps 3/8" for scalping. More adjustment IMO.

I didn't think it was too bad. Release the spring, take off the nut and move down. Not sure what I did but only took about 5 minutes :thumbup:


----------



## Pamboys09

question guys, I perform a paper cut test before I mow, I notice it cuts from the left and middle, the right just folds it.

my question is, whenever this happened to you do you loose the bolt on the right side only and tap with hammer to have reel to bedknife connection/touch?

thanks!


----------



## Sidney

JTCJC said:


> That stinks! Looks like the clutch spring.
> 
> Mclane 1052-D Reel Lawn Mower Clutch Return Spring and Bracket Genuine Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Part https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TD66F38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YjUaDbTFV6W16
> 
> :roll: at the shipping....


Yeah I found the same one on the mclaneedgers site. $5.71 but $10.00 for shipping as well. CRAZY!

https://www.mclaneedgers.com/product/clutch-spring-thin-spring/


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

@Sidney Here's something on belt replacement. 
https://homeguides.sfgate.com/put-mclane-lawn-mower-replacement-belt-94130.html
You can find some information on the clutch system and how to adjust it for correct tension in the manual.


----------



## JTCJC

Pamboys09 said:


> question guys, I perform a paper cut test before I mow, I notice it cuts from the left and middle, the right just folds it.
> 
> my question is, whenever this happened to you do you loose the bolt on the right side only and tap with hammer to have reel to bedknife connection/touch?
> 
> thanks!


Welcome to the wonderful world of adjusting McLane reel mowers.

In my experience I try to tap in the off side first. Sometime just putting some pressure on with my finger is enough. I never tighten the middle bolt until it cuts paper everywhere.

However this changes the angle slightly of the opposite side. When it gets frustrating I just loosen both side again, put a little tension on the front most bolt and tap the center down. Then paper test again.

Bottom line is if one side or the other wants to "pop" up when you release the bolt there is too much torque pressure on the reel.


----------



## Sidney

Groundskeeper Willie said:


> @Sidney Here's something on belt replacement.
> https://homeguides.sfgate.com/put-mclane-lawn-mower-replacement-belt-94130.html
> You can find some information on the clutch system and how to adjust it for correct tension in the manual.


Thanks for that.


----------



## Pamboys09

JTCJC said:


> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> question guys, I perform a paper cut test before I mow, I notice it cuts from the left and middle, the right just folds it.
> 
> my question is, whenever this happened to you do you loose the bolt on the right side only and tap with hammer to have reel to bedknife connection/touch?
> 
> thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to the wonderful world of adjusting McLane reel mowers.
> 
> In my experience I try to tap in the off side first. Sometime just putting some pressure on with my finger is enough. I never tighten the middle bolt until it cuts paper everywhere.
> 
> However this changes the angle slightly of the opposite side. When it gets frustrating I just loosen both side again, put a little tension on the front most bolt and tap the center down. Then paper test again.
> 
> Bottom line is if one side or the other wants to "pop" up when you release the bolt there is too much torque pressure on the reel.
Click to expand...

Wait what center/middle bolt your talking about, i can only see two bolts on each side.


----------



## JTCJC

Pamboys09 said:


> JTCJC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> question guys, I perform a paper cut test before I mow, I notice it cuts from the left and middle, the right just folds it.
> 
> my question is, whenever this happened to you do you loose the bolt on the right side only and tap with hammer to have reel to bedknife connection/touch?
> 
> thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to the wonderful world of adjusting McLane reel mowers.
> 
> In my experience I try to tap in the off side first. Sometime just putting some pressure on with my finger is enough. I never tighten the middle bolt until it cuts paper everywhere.
> 
> However this changes the angle slightly of the opposite side. When it gets frustrating I just loosen both side again, put a little tension on the front most bolt and tap the center down. Then paper test again.
> 
> Bottom line is if one side or the other wants to "pop" up when you release the bolt there is too much torque pressure on the reel.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wait what center/middle bolt your talking about, i can only see two bolts on each side.
Click to expand...

I have 3 bolts on each side of mine (20" post 1990 model). Look on the inside where the bearing is and see if you have a metal plate with 3 bolts on each side. I leave the middle ones loose and only use the front most ones when adjusting the reel to bed knife. The ones furthest to the back of the mower is fixed. Then I tighten the middle ones after the paper test. If you have it of course.

Not sure if this is the correct way or if there is a correct way but mine cuts the seed stems on my Bermuda so good enough for me.


----------



## Pamboys09

JTCJC said:


> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JTCJC said:
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to the wonderful world of adjusting McLane reel mowers.
> 
> In my experience I try to tap in the off side first. Sometime just putting some pressure on with my finger is enough. I never tighten the middle bolt until it cuts paper everywhere.
> 
> However this changes the angle slightly of the opposite side. When it gets frustrating I just loosen both side again, put a little tension on the front most bolt and tap the center down. Then paper test again.
> 
> Bottom line is if one side or the other wants to "pop" up when you release the bolt there is too much torque pressure on the reel.
> 
> 
> 
> Wait what center/middle bolt your talking about, i can only see two bolts on each side.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have 3 bolts on each side of mine (20" post 1990 model). Look on the inside where the bearing is and see if you have a metal plate with 3 bolts on each side. I leave the middle ones loose and only use the front most ones when adjusting the reel to bed knife. The ones furthest to the back of the mower is fixed. Then I tighten the middle ones after the paper test. If you have it of course.
> 
> Not sure if this is the correct way or if there is a correct way but mine cuts the seed stems on my Bermuda so good enough for me.
Click to expand...

Got it, i need to check mine maybe thats the one im missing


----------



## JRS 9572

The_iHenry said:


> JRS 9572 said:
> 
> 
> 
> RE: My Post on May 2nd about the worn out sprockets, and throwing chains. The one that Amazon damaged, and I replaced parts on has finally shown its real problem. A week or so ago the drive wheels that you deploy would bounce up suddenly on dips. My other McLane doesn't do that. Then suddenly the previously damaged one would have the chains running on the side with the belts, but the drive wheels and reel movement would be intermittent at best.
> 
> Well we found the problem. The axle was broken, probably in original damaged shipment, apparently the sprocket screws had been holding it together and the mower worked in spite of the issue. Then the set screw threads were worn down enough that it stopped working. Parts are on the way, and hopefully we've got the issue solved once and for all.
> 
> 
> 
> good deal man hopefully you get it going soon because the grass is growing!
Click to expand...

Luckily that mower was screwed up in shipment. I called Amazon, and asked how we resolve the issue. They said "we'll get back in touch", and I sent pics of damage in the meantime. I get an email early the next morning "keep the mower, and we're sending you another free of charge." You think that sold me on Amazon? Wow. So long story short I have a spare, that's not in as good of shape, to get me through until it's repaired. My hope was to have both operating so my soon to be 17 year old son could help with the cutting, and give ole dad some more free time to spend with Junior outside the yard work.


----------



## Sidney

Well, I finally got the parts in after a whole week. Wasn't bad changing the belt and dead mans spring. Less than 10 minutes. Thanks to everyone who helped out.


----------



## Jmyler

Just picked up an old craftsman that was destined for the scrap heap. The engine code says it's from '72 and with a little TLC (electronic ignition, carb overhaul, etc) can't believe how good it runs. 
It actually cuts really well after some work adjusting it but I'm working on getting it back in better mechanical order. 
My question is about the "clutch lever". It's missing the dead man spring which I can order but also the bearing that the mechanism pivots on has a ton of play. Has anyone changed these out before/know where to get them? Are they pressed in? I feel like if I put the spring back on the plate will push the spring up against the pulley on the engine which may be the reason it's not there now. 
Glad to have found this thread. Having a good time with the ol girl.


----------



## JTCJC

Pamboys09 said:


> JTCJC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wait what center/middle bolt your talking about, i can only see two bolts on each side.
> 
> 
> 
> I have 3 bolts on each side of mine (20" post 1990 model). Look on the inside where the bearing is and see if you have a metal plate with 3 bolts on each side. I leave the middle ones loose and only use the front most ones when adjusting the reel to bed knife. The ones furthest to the back of the mower is fixed. Then I tighten the middle ones after the paper test. If you have it of course.
> 
> Not sure if this is the correct way or if there is a correct way but mine cuts the seed stems on my Bermuda so good enough for me.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Got it, i need to check mine maybe thats the one im missing
Click to expand...

Did you get it figured out?


----------



## Pamboys09

No i didnt, sold my mclane already


----------



## Adrian82

JRS 9572 said:


>


Does anyone know where you can acquire a hex bolt (10mm) for the sprocket? If not, has anyone used a different bolt?


----------



## Adrian82

Adrian82 said:


> JRS 9572 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know where you can acquire a hex bolt (10mm) for the sprocket? If not, has anyone used a different bolt?
Click to expand...

After reviewing some prior posts, I found the term set screw and identified the www.boltdepot.com.
I just ordered various set screws in 10mm and 3/8 size. Hopefully, one works.


----------



## gardencityboy

I came across this link which has a different kit for backlapping Mclane, has any one used this kit? Looks like we can use the mclane engine to perform the backlapping and dont need any power tools.
https://www.4startools.com/20-SA-Sharpening-Kit-20-SA.htm


----------



## JTCJC

gardencityboy said:


> I came across this link which has a different kit for backlapping Mclane, has any one used this kit? Looks like we can use the mclane engine to perform the backlapping and dont need any power tools.
> https://www.4startools.com/20-SA-Sharpening-Kit-20-SA.htm


Too bad the instructions are not better. Other mower brands offer this so I would think it is ok but I have no experience with it. Interesting though that the first line says shipping not included and the last paragraph says shipping included to the lower 48.


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Hello,
I just picked this up today and am going to monkey around with it. It works and I took it for a roll around the lawn tonight, have to get the blades sharpened though. 
Question is, does anyone know what the odd broom is for on the front? I ended up taking it off but am curious if anyone knows what it's for.
I think its from the early 80s.


----------



## JTCJC

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> Hello,
> I just picked this up today and am going to monkey around with it. It works and I took it for a roll around the lawn tonight, have to get the blades sharpened though.
> Question is, does anyone know what the odd broom is for on the front? I ended up taking it off but am curious if anyone knows what it's for.
> I think its from the early 80s.


Cool idea I guess. My guess is to stand the blades up for a better cut. Let us know how it works!


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Yep, will do. I am pretty sure the guy I bought it from didn't know either. He made me feel kind of stupid for asking, but then he didn't really answer it and was vague saying it was used for mowing. ardon:


----------



## SGrabs33

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> Yep, will do. I am pretty sure the guy I bought it from didn't know either. He made me feel kind of stupid for asking, but then he didn't really answer it and was vague saying it was used for mowing. ardon:


It's just something that someone made and added to it. Some greens mowers have them. Never seen one before on a McLane.


----------



## SGrabs33

JTCJC said:


> gardencityboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I came across this link which has a different kit for backlapping Mclane, has any one used this kit? Looks like we can use the mclane engine to perform the backlapping and dont need any power tools.
> https://www.4startools.com/20-SA-Sharpening-Kit-20-SA.htm
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad the instructions are not better. Other mower brands offer this so I would think it is ok but I have no experience with it. Interesting though that the first line says shipping not included and the last paragraph says shipping included to the lower 48.
Click to expand...

IMO it's kinda overkill. I haven't used this one but I think just buying an adapter to fit on the sprocket and attach to a drill would be easiest.


----------



## JTCJC

SGrabs33 said:


> JTCJC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gardencityboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I came across this link which has a different kit for backlapping Mclane, has any one used this kit? Looks like we can use the mclane engine to perform the backlapping and dont need any power tools.
> https://www.4startools.com/20-SA-Sharpening-Kit-20-SA.htm
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad the instructions are not better. Other mower brands offer this so I would think it is ok but I have no experience with it. Interesting though that the first line says shipping not included and the last paragraph says shipping included to the lower 48.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> IMO it's kinda overkill. I haven't used this one but I think just buying an adapter to fit on the sprocket and attach to a drill would be easiest.
Click to expand...

That's what I have. Not sure if it's easy though. For me it takes 2 people. The torque of the drill takes 2 hands and I have to get someone to put on the compound while I hold the drill. Had my wife try the drill one time and it about broke her wrist so I can count her out for future help :lol:


----------



## gardencityboy

JTCJC said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JTCJC said:
> 
> 
> 
> Too bad the instructions are not better. Other mower brands offer this so I would think it is ok but I have no experience with it. Interesting though that the first line says shipping not included and the last paragraph says shipping included to the lower 48.
> 
> 
> 
> IMO it's kinda overkill. I haven't used this one but I think just buying an adapter to fit on the sprocket and attach to a drill would be easiest.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's what I have. Not sure if it's easy though. For me it takes 2 people. The torque of the drill takes 2 hands and I have to get someone to put on the compound while I hold the drill. Had my wife try the drill one time and it about broke her wrist so I can count her out for future help :lol:
Click to expand...

When I use my drill it gets so hot that I think it will burn out. Also the normal back lapping machines are about $400 +, this seems to be $100 and also uses the mower engine so don't have to worry about the drill. 
I have never seen this before so wanted to get feedback if any one has tried it.


----------



## quadmasta

I've seen multiple people say it runs too fast


----------



## TheTurfTamer

gardencityboy said:


> JTCJC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> IMO it's kinda overkill. I haven't used this one but I think just buying an adapter to fit on the sprocket and attach to a drill would be easiest.
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I have. Not sure if it's easy though. For me it takes 2 people. The torque of the drill takes 2 hands and I have to get someone to put on the compound while I hold the drill. Had my wife try the drill one time and it about broke her wrist so I can count her out for future help :lol:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> When I use my drill it gets so hot that I think it will burn out. Also the normal back lapping machines are about $400 +, this seems to be $100 and also uses the mower engine so don't have to worry about the drill.
> I have never seen this before so wanted to get feedback if any one has tried it.
Click to expand...


----------



## JRS 9572

Folks do not buy the McLane backlapping kit by McLane. It's overpriced. Complicated. Cumbersome. I could go on. If you want one bad enough I'll send you the $92.00 piece of crap one I have collecting dust in my garage.

I ended up making one that attached to the front "spoke." All I have to do is remove the reel chain. Hook up the connection to the plug in drill, and I'm in business. And after I had that one made reelrollers came out with one that's about $45.00 or so and works in the same fashion.


----------



## Francoix

I just sharpen my reel blades last week on my mclane mower. Today when i was mowing, the reel hit a rock and now when the reel spins it makes a "thump" noise at a particular spot. Should i take it to get backlap or should i try filing down that particular spot?


----------



## The_iHenry

@Francoix I'd start with the file first


----------



## Francoix

Thanks @The_iHenry


----------



## NoslracNevok

@TheTurfTamer I understand the rest, but what are the black bits for? Bumpers/feet on the bottom side?


----------



## TheTurfTamer

NoslracNevok said:


> @TheTurfTamer I understand the rest, but what are the black bits for? Bumpers/feet on the bottom side?


Those are leveling feet. Since my Toro has a socket adapter, I needed a way to do fine adjustments on the drill pitch.


----------



## Francoix

Is it easy to change a bed knife on a 20 inch McLane? Or do you guys recommend taking it to a shop?


----------



## Bmossin

Francoix said:


> Is it easy to change a bed knife on a 20 inch McLane? Or do you guys recommend taking it to a shop?


Make sure you get the right one...there is an older one and a newer one.

I changed out my older one, and wasnt't bad if you're handy. Hardest part is getting the reel back in adjustment I thought.


----------



## JTCJC

Here is a video of how to remove it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cMOXfN3MefQ


----------



## Francoix

@Bmossin How can you tell if you have a newer or older one?

@JTCJC Thanks for the video. Its not that bad.


----------



## Bmossin

@Francoix

One is for after 1990 and one for before:

https://www.mclaneedgers.com/product/20bedknife-after-790/

https://www.mclaneedgers.com/product/20-bedknife-old-style-before-1990/


----------



## mha2345

Hey all, I'm trying to find a reel mower and it will be my first reel mower, so I'm trying to decide which brand to go with and have been looking at used mowers. I found a guy locally selling this 25" model who says it's from the year 2015, has a 10 blade reel, Honda motor, front roller and grass catcher. He did say it starts on 1st pull but the reel is a little rusty and needs to be backlapped. He is asking $550 for it. Can anyone help me decide if this will be a good purchase for someone like me?


----------



## NoslracNevok

​I'm very happy with a (like new) smaller 20" McLane. I think you'd be very pleased with this machine. I'm not a good judge of reel life, but it looks relatively well maintained, and the fact he put a roller on it means he likely pays attention to details. I'd try and haggle him down a bit though. Pick it apart before making an offer. Doesn't cut paper? $50 off. Dings $20, Scuffs $20, Rust, $20. At least that worked for me. 

Most people agree a Mclane isn't a forever mower and expect to sell it to subsidize for a Toro, JD, Jacobsen, etc. I'll likely do this next year. Zero regret buying the Mclane.


----------



## Ptb427

Just bought this used Mclane. Appears to be in good shape with low use. The previous owner installed this roller and I've got some questions about it. Once the roller hits about anything during normal use the side opposite the adjustment lever will rotate back causing it to be misaligned. It doesn't look like the other rollers I've seen on here. Has anyone seen this before or do you think it's custom? And thought on how to fix the misalignment problem? I was thinking I could tighen the nut on the adjustment lever but would have to loosen it to change height. Thoughts or tips appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## Bmossin

Ptb427 said:


> Just bought this used Mclane. Appears to be in good shape with low use. The previous owner installed this roller and I've got some questions about it. Once the roller hits about anything during normal use the side opposite the adjustment lever will rotate back causing it to be misaligned. It doesn't look like the other rollers I've seen on here. Has anyone seen this before or do you think it's custom? And thought on how to fix the misalignment problem? I was thinking I could tighen the nut on the adjustment lever but would have to loosen it to change height. Thoughts or tips appreciated. Thanks!


A custom job for sure...looking at it you can see where it is using the old wheel brackets that were cut to also mount the roller. I was very happy with the one Installed from reelrollers.com. Might want to hold out for the grooved one they are coming out with though if you go that route.


----------



## JTCJC

I agree with @Bmossin definitely custom. They used the original bracketing for the 2 wheels and replaced it with a roller.

One problem is that the roller has a different diameter from the wheels so your HOC it much different from the original specifications. The second is that to compensate for the smaller diameter roller, reel roller increased the length of the arm between the roller and the long threaded mounting rod (where the assembly mounts to the frame with the 3 adjustment holes). Not sure if the length would change how the roller reacts when it hits something.

I would definitely check to make sure everything is tight. The long threaded mounting rod that goes through the red bar should have a small washer between the yellow handle bar and the red frame. I am not sure the real name but it is a curved washer so you can tighten the nut but still keep a gap between the bracket and the frame.

Additionally I would move the spring lower that holds down the HOC lock bracket. Maybe that will keep a little more tension on everything.


----------



## Chrisj796

Hello 
I am looking for someone who encountered a similar problem. I just replaced the jack shaft an am trying to figure out why the axle is moving before I damage anymore parts. Mower drives great but after a few passes sprocket begin to rub on drive chain cover. A small tap from a mallet lines everything back up. I am somewhat lost as for what is pulling axle. Lawn mower has ran great until a few mows ago when I encountered this problem. Any help would be appreciated


----------



## JTCJC

Chrisj796 said:


> Hello
> I am looking for someone who encountered a similar problem. I just replaced the jack shaft an am trying to figure out why the axle is moving before I damage anymore parts. Mower drives great but after a few passes sprocket begin to rub on drive chain cover. A small tap from a mallet lines everything back up. I am somewhat lost as for what is pulling axle. Lawn mower has ran great until a few mows ago when I encountered this problem. Any help would be appreciated


I would like to help but I guess I am not exactly sure what you mean.

So the axle with the tires (split 2 x 2)is shifting left to right causing the chain to run on the guard?


----------



## Chrisj796

Yes it pulls about 1/4 towards the drive chain


----------



## Chrisj796

havextree said:


> So my dad is having issues with his mower. He just replaced a belt but now the sprocket on the rear axle doesn't seem to translate into the axle. There is a screw in the axle that seems to hold the two together but the axle or sprocket have moved laterally and it seems not to be lined up. I can't seem to get it lined up. Should I take the whole rear assembly apart?


Ever figure out why? I am having same problem and can't find an answer anywhere.


----------



## Mr Efficiency

I Got this from a friend today, selling this McLane mower.

$100 and it is yours picked yo here in Northern NJ.

I can ship it but that will be a bit costly.


----------



## JTCJC

Chrisj796 said:


> havextree said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my dad is having issues with his mower. He just replaced a belt but now the sprocket on the rear axle doesn't seem to translate into the axle. There is a screw in the axle that seems to hold the two together but the axle or sprocket have moved laterally and it seems not to be lined up. I can't seem to get it lined up. Should I take the whole rear assembly apart?
> 
> 
> 
> Ever figure out why? I am having same problem and can't find an answer anywhere.
Click to expand...

Did you figure it out? I am available today and can take some pictures of mine to help.


----------



## Chrisj796

JTCJC said:


> Chrisj796 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> havextree said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my dad is having issues with his mower. He just replaced a belt but now the sprocket on the rear axle doesn't seem to translate into the axle. There is a screw in the axle that seems to hold the two together but the axle or sprocket have moved laterally and it seems not to be lined up. I can't seem to get it lined up. Should I take the whole rear assembly apart?
> 
> 
> 
> Ever figure out why? I am having same problem and can't find an answer anywhere.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Did you figure it out? I am available today and can take some pictures of mine to help.
Click to expand...

No I am going to pull axle out tonight and try to figure it out.


----------



## Chrisj796

Chrisj796 said:


> JTCJC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chrisj796 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ever figure out why? I am having same problem and can't find an answer anywhere.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you figure it out? I am available today and can take some pictures of mine to help.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No I am going to pull axle out tonight and try to figure it out.
Click to expand...

I adjusted the jack shaft pully I just replaced, I put a string on sprocket an they didn't match up so I loosened bolts did a little filling an adjusted the mounting bracket. I will try to use it mid week hopefully that worked. I am guessing that is what ate the teeth of the old pully.


----------



## Ptb427

@Bmossin @JTCJC thanks for the insight. I was able to tighten up the rod through the bar and it looks like it will hold for now until I can weld up something or go for a reelroller.


----------



## JTCJC

Ptb427 said:


> @Bmossin @JTCJC thanks for the insight. I was able to tighten up the rod through the bar and it looks like it will hold for now until I can weld up something or go for a reelroller.


 :thumbup:


----------



## Chrisj796

Chrisj796 said:


> Chrisj796 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JTCJC said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you figure it out? I am available today and can take some pictures of mine to help.
> 
> 
> 
> No I am going to pull axle out tonight and try to figure it out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I adjusted the jack shaft pully I just replaced, I put a string on sprocket an they didn't match up so I loosened bolts did a little filling an adjusted the mounting bracket. I will try to use it mid week hopefully that worked. I am guessing that is what ate the teeth of the old pully.
Click to expand...

Didn't work after about three passes across yard chain popped off, I am lost an Mclane is not much in the help department.


----------



## JTCJC

Chrisj796 said:


> Chrisj796 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chrisj796 said:
> 
> 
> 
> No I am going to pull axle out tonight and try to figure it out.
> 
> 
> 
> I adjusted the jack shaft pully I just replaced, I put a string on sprocket an they didn't match up so I loosened bolts did a little filling an adjusted the mounting bracket. I will try to use it mid week hopefully that worked. I am guessing that is what ate the teeth of the old pully.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Didn't work after about three passes across yard chain popped off, I am lost an Mclane is not much in the help department.
Click to expand...

How much play is in the chain? Have they been replaced?


----------



## Chrisj796

JTCJC said:


> Chrisj796 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Chrisj796 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I adjusted the jack shaft pully I just replaced, I put a string on sprocket an they didn't match up so I loosened bolts did a little filling an adjusted the mounting bracket. I will try to use it mid week hopefully that worked. I am guessing that is what ate the teeth of the old pully.
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't work after about three passes across yard chain popped off, I am lost an Mclane is not much in the help department.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How much play is in the chain? Have they been replaced?
Click to expand...

The chain did seem a little stretched so I replaced it with same outcome.


----------



## Thisguy

Has anyone replaced the belt on a McLane 20"? Mine finally gave way the other night


----------



## JTCJC

Thisguy said:


> Has anyone replaced the belt on a McLane 20"? Mine finally gave way the other night


Yes sir


----------



## JRS 9572

Yep. I've done it numerous times. Takes a little time.


----------



## LoCutt

I have had a McLane for a long time. My biggest problem is the chain which eventually drags on the gear cover which eats through the metal. I get to buy a new one. The chain is a #41 which is a very common chain, and all the chains I've purchased quickly stretch and have excessive side play. When you have the chain off (perhaps back-lapping), it's easy to see the excessive side play in the chain. I've been looking for a better chain to no avail, and also for something to tension the chain. The only device I've found is astronomically expensive. I believe this would help reduce the side play.


----------



## JRS 9572

Ok. Maybe I broke a pain of glass recently. After replacing jack shafts, chains, and an axle this summer. I now have wheels coming off the axle. What the #$%^^? I swear I'm not a Samsonite Gorilla. The only thing I have is a hill to cut. I'm wondering if that's just too much for this mower? Frustrated as I can be. The best I can tell I need a new wheel. Guess I have to disassemble the axle to do it. :evil:

Anyone have an email to McLane "tech support?" In the past I've been able to email pictures and they get me whole assemblies that may not be in the parts page. Cannot find the email address.

Here's a pic of the wheel and my hill of torture. I'm wondering if I should suck it up and buy a tru cut with more @#$ behind it? I love the swardman, but it isn't going to drive up the hill with the metal roller.


----------



## JTCJC

Maybe we should change the title of the thread to "My McLane is Falling Apart in the Middle of the Summer"?


----------



## JTCJC

JRS 9572 said:


> Ok. Maybe I broke a pain of glass recently. After replacing jack shafts, chains, and an axle this summer. I now have wheels coming off the axle. What the #$%^^? I swear I'm not a Samsonite Gorilla. The only thing I have is a hill to cut. I'm wondering if that's just too much for this mower? Frustrated as I can be. The best I can tell I need a new wheel. Guess I have to disassemble the axle to do it. :evil:
> 
> Anyone have an email to McLane "tech support?" In the past I've been able to email pictures and they get me whole assemblies that may not be in the parts page. Cannot find the email address.
> 
> Here's a pic of the wheel and my hill of torture. I'm wondering if I should suck it up and buy a tru cut with more @#$ behind it? I love the swardman, but it isn't going to drive up the hill with the metal roller.


Man that's terrible!

Where did the bearing go? Did it explode in pieces on your lawn?


----------



## JRS 9572

I can't find any pieces. There is a spacer that goes over the shaft to keep the wheel in place. I can feel it on the right. Something let it slide to the right.

Frustrated. My 1997 model was bulletproof. These two circa 2015. Not so much.


----------



## JRS 9572

I got the email address to McLane by calling. I emailed the pics. We'll see what they come back with.


----------



## gmarblestone

Howdy all from Houston,

Have a 5 year old zeon zoysia lawn that i've been mowing with a rotary mower. I finally decided to try a reel mower and purchased a very used Mclane 20" 5.5hp. It runs great...

- I plan to ensure the reel is cutting correctly (aligning) with the blade.
- Considering buying a front roller.

My question is that the handle to engage the cutting doesn't stay all the way down by itself. I have to hold it there. It does go down and stay down, but not ALL the way down. Should it? If so, is there an adjustment for that?

I used it for the first time on the front yard. It is a bit brown, but will come back soon(week or two) i think.


Thanks for any help!

Grant


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

4L-190 vs. 4L-195 belts
FYI...I bought the 195 belt and when I went to put it on, I took the old one off and it was a 190. Just wanted to point that out as mine is an older machine and it looks like they run on the 190. The 195 seemed loose and was wobbling around, not engaging fully, with very little power. 
Just wanted to point that out...I probably should have checked what was on there first! Good thing for Amazon Prime though, new one will be here Friday with free shipping.


----------



## JTCJC

gmarblestone said:


> Howdy all from Houston,
> 
> Have a 5 year old zeon zoysia lawn that i've been mowing with a rotary mower. I finally decided to try a reel mower and purchased a very used Mclane 20" 5.5hp. It runs great...
> 
> - I plan to ensure the reel is cutting correctly (aligning) with the blade.
> - Considering buying a front roller.
> 
> My question is that the handle to engage the cutting doesn't stay all the way down by itself. I have to hold it there. It does go down and stay down, but not ALL the way down. Should it? If so, is there an adjustment for that?
> 
> I used it for the first time on the front yard. It is a bit brown, but will come back soon(week or two) i think.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help!
> 
> Grant


The handle on the right that you push down engages the rear drive roller. The lever that you pull up on (left side) engages the reel. The lever does not stay engaged for safety reasons and must be held up all the time while mowing.

Does this help?


----------



## gmarblestone

Not really... but thank you for the reply! Ill try to explain it better.

My issue is the handle on the right side that engages the rear drive roller. When i push it down and release it, it only seems to stay at about half way. So, i'm holding the lever all the way down myself. I'm wondering if there is an adjustment?

Thanks again!



JTCJC said:


> gmarblestone said:
> 
> 
> 
> Howdy all from Houston,
> 
> Have a 5 year old zeon zoysia lawn that i've been mowing with a rotary mower. I finally decided to try a reel mower and purchased a very used Mclane 20" 5.5hp. It runs great...
> 
> - I plan to ensure the reel is cutting correctly (aligning) with the blade.
> - Considering buying a front roller.
> 
> My question is that the handle to engage the cutting doesn't stay all the way down by itself. I have to hold it there. It does go down and stay down, but not ALL the way down. Should it? If so, is there an adjustment for that?
> 
> I used it for the first time on the front yard. It is a bit brown, but will come back soon(week or two) i think.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help!
> 
> Grant
> 
> 
> 
> The handle on the right that you push down engages the rear drive roller. The lever that you pull up on (left side) engages the reel. The lever does not stay engaged for safety reasons and must be held up all the time while mowing.
> 
> Does this help?
Click to expand...


----------



## JTCJC

gmarblestone said:


> Not really... but thank you for the reply! Ill try to explain it better.
> 
> My issue is the handle on the right side that engages the rear drive roller. When i push it down and release it, it only seems to stay at about half way. So, i'm holding the lever all the way down myself. I'm wondering if there is an adjustment?
> 
> Thanks again!
> 
> 
> 
> JTCJC said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gmarblestone said:
> 
> 
> 
> Howdy all from Houston,
> 
> Have a 5 year old zeon zoysia lawn that i've been mowing with a rotary mower. I finally decided to try a reel mower and purchased a very used Mclane 20" 5.5hp. It runs great...
> 
> - I plan to ensure the reel is cutting correctly (aligning) with the blade.
> - Considering buying a front roller.
> 
> My question is that the handle to engage the cutting doesn't stay all the way down by itself. I have to hold it there. It does go down and stay down, but not ALL the way down. Should it? If so, is there an adjustment for that?
> 
> I used it for the first time on the front yard. It is a bit brown, but will come back soon(week or two) i think.
> 
> 
> Thanks for any help!
> 
> Grant
> 
> 
> 
> The handle on the right that you push down engages the rear drive roller. The lever that you pull up on (left side) engages the reel. The lever does not stay engaged for safety reasons and must be held up all the time while mowing.
> 
> Does this help?
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Ok, I understand.

To adjust this you need to loosen this screw and change the angle of the bar with the spring on it. However the handle does not lock into place. There is no "set position" for it. The rear drive wheel moves up and down as you mow then the handle will move as well since is it a direct link.

Is the drive roller not working to drive the mower? Is the spring worn out or not attached correctly?


----------



## quadmasta

gmarblestone said:


> My question is that the handle to engage the cutting doesn't stay all the way down by itself. I have to hold it there. It does go down and stay down, but not ALL the way down. Should it? If so, is there an adjustment for that?


There's a "stop" on the lever that keeps it from going too far but as long as it throws forward and doesn't push backward it's fine. It's meant to have some movement forward so the wheel can vary its height a bit. It helps on uneven terrain and you can apply some forward force to it if there's a traction issue.


----------



## JRS 9572

I have one that constantly pushes back up while mowing. Any ideas? Same adjustment mentioned above.


----------



## JRS 9572

So after I got the parts in from McLane my father in law and my son went to replace the wheel while I was at the race in Bristol. And it turns out bearings came apart on the axle, and the axle isn't doing great. So the axle and bearings need replacement as well. We just replaced them earlier this summer. Here's a link to show what the deal is.

Fun times. I'm thinking a commercial tru-cut is where I need to head next. I never had these problems on previous flat yards. Move to a new home with slopes and inclines......and it falls apart regularly.

https://youtu.be/3eaVr4rQ0VY


----------



## LoCutt

I have 3 McLane's and some (yes, I can't remember which) use 4L195 belts and others use 4L200. This has caused me a lot of grief.

4L is some kind of code for a 1/2 inch standard v-belt. It is a very common belt although a somewhat rare length. 195 means the outside edge is 19.5 inches long while the 200 means 20.0 inches. I suspect that if you measure your belt (used!) it will have stretched some.

The chain (#41) has caused me a lot of grief as I've previously stated.

Someone previously downplayed the significance of backlapping and emphasized reel grinding. My opinion is based on my experience with the golf course crew at one particular course which means that it is not scientific. Nonetheless, I backslap multiple times during a season and have never had a reel ground. No doubt I should, but that is expensive as others have said. There is a local firm that refurbishes golf course equipment and I believe they would charge about $125 to grind a reel.

To determine if you need to perform maintenance on your reel, look at the clippings. When the reel is dull or has excessive blade-to-bed knife clearance, the ends of the clippings (and your lawn) will be frayed and take on a yellowish-orangish tint regardless of the HOC.

I use a Neary machine for backlapping. The most time consuming part for me is disconnecting the drive chain which allows the reel to spin. It's also a hassle to fit my home-built adapter on the sprocket. Now that I've seen the McLane part, I may get the welder out and try a little fabrication.


----------



## LoCutt

The spell checker is changing words for me! Backlap vs backslap.


----------



## lucusmarcus

How can I get the front sprocket off? It is super tight and there is no leverage to get any power. I have a used manual push McLane g-17-ph-10. Trying to backlap and have tried the duct tape but can't get it stay on.

http://imgur.com/a/OZNBd67


----------



## quadmasta

lucusmarcus said:


> How can I get the front sprocket off? It is super tight and there is no leverage to get any power. I have a used manual push McLane g-17-ph-10. Trying to backlap and have tried the duct tape but can't get it stay on.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/OZNBd67


It's likely rusted on and chances are that whoever put the set screw in really reefed on it and dimpled the axle. Hit it with Pb blaster and wait overnight. Hit it with a torch and while it's hot use a gear puller and it'll come right off.


----------



## lucusmarcus

How close should the reel and bedknife be? It's really hard to push through any grass when they're really close. Theres no noise either. When I separate them a little more, it's easier. But I'm not sure how its cutting.


----------



## JRS 9572

A plug in impact wrench was the only thing that helped me break mine loose.


----------



## lucusmarcus

flats642 said:


> I know there are lots of ideas on how to spin the reel for back lapping, but here is another that works. I had an adjustable hole cutter laying around and thought if I took the center bit off I could adjust the tips to fit in the sprockets. Cost about $8.00 from Harbor Freight and could be used for a variety of sprocket sizes.
> 
> https://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-tip-adjustable-circle-cutter-68117.html


Has anybody else tried this out? Did it work ok?


----------



## lucusmarcus

lucusmarcus said:


> flats642 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I know there are lots of ideas on how to spin the reel for back lapping, but here is another that works. I had an adjustable hole cutter laying around and thought if I took the center bit off I could adjust the tips to fit in the sprockets. Cost about $8.00 from Harbor Freight and could be used for a variety of sprocket sizes.
> 
> https://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-tip-adjustable-circle-cutter-68117.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anybody else tried this out? Did it work ok?
Click to expand...

Up. Works great.


----------



## lucusmarcus

New question. My used mclane 17 inch 10 blade manual. When I lower the reel, its turns into the roller and scraps it preventing the reel from turning without super human strength. Any advice?


----------



## Chippydips

lucusmarcus said:


> lucusmarcus said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> flats642 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I know there are lots of ideas on how to spin the reel for back lapping, but here is another that works. I had an adjustable hole cutter laying around and thought if I took the center bit off I could adjust the tips to fit in the sprockets. Cost about $8.00 from Harbor Freight and could be used for a variety of sprocket sizes.
> 
> https://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-tip-adjustable-circle-cutter-68117.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anybody else tried this out? Did it work ok?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Up. Works great.
Click to expand...

Used that tool to backlap today. Works amazingly.


----------



## Jkmaddox88

Recently bout a craftsman/mcclane 20". I replaced the clutch belt, but now the reel and drive wheel both continuously spin even when not engaged. Not sure of a solution.


----------



## Pete1313

@Jkmaddox88, moved this over to the mclane reel mower questions thread. Hopefully someone can help diagnose your issue! :thumbsup:


----------



## Jkmaddox88

Pete1313 said:


> @Jkmaddox88, moved this over to the mclane reel mower questions thread. Hopefully someone can help diagnose your issue! :thumbsup:


Thanks. I've been reading through this thread all day and got a bit overwhelmed. Any help would be appreciated


----------



## Bmossin

Jkmaddox88 said:


> Recently bout a craftsman/mcclane 20". I replaced the clutch belt, but now the reel and drive wheel both continuously spin even when not engaged. Not sure of a solution.


Sounds like your belt might be a bit too small in that it is keeping enough tension to be engaged even without the handle being pulled, or if you can adjust the rod for that idler pulley that engages the drive belt to allow for some more slack.


----------



## FuzzeWuzze

If hes mowing 20 acres he needs like a tractor with a giant cutter on it, i dont think you'd want to mow 20 acres even with the largest Mclane or reel mower. You need a combine


----------



## Chippydips

I'm sure it's been mentioned before but switching out the grips with bicycle grips is a real game changer in comfortability, at least for me. I just went with standard sized, all rubber, flangeless grips and it honestly feels like I have more control and there is definitely a reduction in any vibrations.


----------



## JRS 9572

@Chippydips can you post the source of where you purchased the bicycle grips? Willing to try. I just have the standard issue foam handle covers from McLane.


----------



## JRS 9572

@Jkmaddox88 Take the cover off the jack shaft with pully and sprocket. Make sure the sprocket isn't worn smooth. That will cause the chain not to be engaged, and give you the same issue. To replace the jack shaft with pulley sprocket you'll need part number 1053. The chain is a part number 1092 Clutch Drive Chain- No. 41 x 46 pitch.

It's sick that I know these parts off the top of my head, and/or have the manual parts list so handy. Oh and 1057 is the connecting chain link for the 1092 chain.


----------



## Chippydips

JRS 9572 said:


> @Chippydips can you post the source of where you purchased the bicycle grips? Willing to try. I just have the standard issue foam handle covers from McLane.


These are the ones I picked up. They come with the end caps which is cool.

ODIA7 Odi Soft Flangeless Longneck Grips, Lime Green https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008JYG3IW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_N.jCDbBMGZYSF

If you search "Odi Soft Flangeless Longneck Grips" in amazon you will find many different colors. My only tip is to avoid any lock on grips since they wont bend with the curvature of the bar.

For these, I know the photos in the ads show the wide part of the grip having the end cap in them but I installed them wide side in so the end caps sit flush on the outside. The red grip in the photo was just another bike grip I had around the house.


----------



## justin144

I have a B&S engine and it's ridiculously hard to start. Takes about 30-50 pulls to start. Once it's warm, it starts right away. I've replaced the plug to no avail. I probably need to just take it all apart and clean it, but anyone have thoughts?


----------



## bhutchinson87

30-50? Good lord that's a workout. Have you checked the carb bowl?


----------



## ktgrok

How good of a deal do you think this is? https://orlando.craigslist.org/hsh/d/orlando-mclane-reel-mower/6970294653.html
Looks like he originally listed it at 400, then dropped to 300. I'm not EXACTLY looking to buy a gas powered reel...but I'm not NOT looking to get one, lol. So curious if this is some fantastic deal.


----------



## ktgrok

Or this one is on facebook for $215 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1510431725762785/


----------



## Brent_K

I've got an old 17-3.5RP-7 that runs decently, but all of a sudden the reel won't stop spinning no matter what I do. The clutch rod seems bent, and if I am looking at this correctly, it seems like there are some missing washers or bearings on the bottom part of the rod, where the pin is. Is anyone familiar with this style of clutch rod? I can't find anything on it, and I called McLane to get a manual, and they never sent it to me...Any help would be great!


----------



## Chocolate Lab

Hate to ask such a noob question, but is there a consensus on whether the 10-blade is worth finding over the 7-blade for your typical Bermuda lawn? I do see those from time to time and would wait to find one if you guys think it makes a significant difference. Also, are there any disadvantages to having more blades?


----------



## SwBermuda

the height adjustment spring just broke on my 20 in. Everywhere I look online, the 6 dollar part is going to cost me 15 dollars to ship to my house! Are there any DIY ideas or do the home improvement stores have something similar to what I'm looking for?


----------



## Chocolate Lab

Question for you guys... I didn't read every post in the thread but I read a lot of them. I'm working on my 17-ph-7 manual McLane but am thinking seriously about a gas one soon.

I backlapped yesterday and the only way I can get a good paper cut across the reel is for quite a bit of contact, which makes mowing very loud and noisy. As soon as I back the reel off at all, the paper won't cut. Reel edges are shiny and sharp.

Does this mean my bedknife is bad? Or the reel? Or do I need more adjusting?

I did see where a new bedknife for this mower is only $60-something shipped, which I wouldn't mind paying if it would make a big difference. (Don't want to put much more than that into this mower.)


----------



## JimB

Chippydips said:


> lucusmarcus said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lucusmarcus said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anybody else tried this out? Did it work ok?
> 
> 
> 
> Up. Works great.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Used that tool to backlap today. Works amazingly.
Click to expand...

Gents,
Ordered a similar hole cutter from Amazon, as well as a reel back-lapping kit from Pinhole consisting of 80# & 120# grit compound and a long handled brush. I used my grinder to shorten the two "cutters" and gave a 'spin' with a battery powered drill. It worked amazingly well. Took many adjustments of the reel hold down bolts and a hammer/punch to get the reel perfectly aligned with the bed knife, but this was my first time. It's great to have a perfect cut again!!


----------



## SwBermuda

JimB said:


> Chippydips said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> lucusmarcus said:
> 
> 
> 
> Up. Works great.
> 
> 
> 
> Used that tool to backlap today. Works amazingly.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Gents,
> Ordered a similar hole cutter from Amazon, as well as a reel back-lapping kit from Pinhole consisting of 80# & 120# grit compound and a long handled brush. I used my grinder to shorten the two "cutters" and gave a 'spin' with a battery powered drill. It worked amazingly well. Took many adjustments of the reel hold down bolts and a hammer/punch to get the reel perfectly aligned with the bed knife, but this was my first time. It's great to have a perfect cut again!!
Click to expand...

I'm probably the only idiot who used the harbor freight hole cutter to back lap but darn near almost ended up cutting the teeth off the sprocket lol. I'll be needing to replace that thing for next season I bet.

But.... it works really well, super easy!


----------



## Sooner_37

Has anyone had to replace the throttle bracket? I couldn't find any videos/replacement parts on this. Thanks!


----------



## batesman1

Hulk37 said:


> Has anyone had to replace the throttle bracket? I couldn't find any videos/replacement parts on this. Thanks!


Yep, I've done it. I ordered this part from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018U2DT2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The cable that came off was shorter. I used wire snips to cut the new cable and sheath to the same length as the old. Then I had to remove a small silver clamp on the new cable to free the cable housing from the throttle lever and remove the cable from the sheath. This is done so that you can cut the cable housing back without cutting the cable itself. Next take two pairs of needle nose pliers and bend a new Z into the cable. You'll need to ensure that the new Z bend can pass through the sheath or install the cable through the sheath and then make the Z bend. Here's a good youtube video showing how this is done:





Reattach to the throttle / choke plate and adjust cable travel by moving the sheath forward or backward under the retaining screw that holds it in place. secure the One minor issue I had was that i had to slightly grind down the metal retaining tabs on the mclane handlebar to secure the throttle lever body. It's a solid fit now though.

*Pro Tip:* If you don't have enough cable exposed from the sheath, it will limit your forward throttle lever travel and the engine won't reach full throttle. It's a good idea to test fit before making your final sheathe cut and Z bend.


----------



## batesman1

Howdy,

My Mclane has about a 3 inch piece of gas line between the tank and carb inlet (3.5 HP Briggs engine). Has anyone figured out a way to add in a fuel shutoff and small filter?


----------



## LoveMyLawn

I've joined the family. Got this today. It's not in my possession as of yet. Landscape buddy of mine went and tested it out and picked it up for me and said it's in great shape. He's a few hours away but I will get it soon. Once I get it I'm sure I'll have some questions.


----------



## Sooner_37

batesman1 said:


> Hulk37 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone had to replace the throttle bracket? I couldn't find any videos/replacement parts on this. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, I've done it. I ordered this part from Amazon.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0018U2DT2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> The cable that came off was shorter. I used wire snips to cut the new cable and sheath to the same length as the old. Then I had to remove a small silver clamp on the new cable to free the cable housing from the throttle lever and remove the cable from the sheath. This is done so that you can cut the cable housing back without cutting the cable itself. Next take two pairs of needle nose pliers and bend a new Z into the cable. You'll need to ensure that the new Z bend can pass through the sheath or install the cable through the sheath and then make the Z bend. Here's a good youtube video showing how this is done:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reattach to the throttle / choke plate and adjust cable travel by moving the sheath forward or backward under the retaining screw that holds it in place. secure the One minor issue I had was that i had to slightly grind down the metal retaining tabs on the mclane handlebar to secure the throttle lever body. It's a solid fit now though.
> 
> *Pro Tip:* If you don't have enough cable exposed from the sheath, it will limit your forward throttle lever travel and the engine won't reach full throttle. It's a good idea to test fit before making your final sheathe cut and Z bend.
Click to expand...

This is exactly what I'm looking for! Thank you!!!


----------



## JimmyMika

First time post here.

Here are some photos from my Mclane 20" restoration project. Bought this beauty for $100 on offer-up, tore it completely apart, sanded off rust, replaced bearings, and gave a fresh paint job. Let me know if you have any questions!


----------



## LoveMyLawn

That turned out great! Did you backlap the blades?


----------



## JimmyMika

LoveMyLawn said:


> That turned out great! Did you backlap the blades?


Yes I did. :thumbup: I purchased the 120 grit LOCTITE clover from amazon and backlapped until it cut paper.


----------



## LoveMyLawn

Excellent! I was going to ask what you used next, lol. I'll be getting the used one I bought next week and going to backlap first thing and was curious what to get.


----------



## JimmyMika

LoveMyLawn said:


> Excellent! I was going to ask what you used next, lol. I'll be getting the used one I bought next week and going to backlap first thing and was curious what to get.


I'd recommend you pull the chain sprocket off of the reel shaft and chuck a drill on the end of it. You will need a drill that has a large enough chuck though. I forget how large the shaft is exactly. The clover comes in a small container so if you expect to do this once a year or so I would go for the pin high:

https://www.amazon.com/grit-Pinhigh-Reel-Sharpening-Compound/dp/B078PNXSTJ/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=pinhigh&qid=1574297441&sr=8-2

I was a bit surprised at how quickly i went through half of the little clover container.


----------



## LoveMyLawn

Do you plan to add a roller?


----------



## JimmyMika

LoveMyLawn said:


> Do you plan to add a roller?


I do have a roller from Reel Rollers. I tried to make one myself by cutting off the tabs from the OEM wheel bracket and installing a $15 conveyor roller from mcmaster (20"wide). Since the existing tabs are shorter and the OEM wheels are large in diameter, my tiny conveyor roller set the cut height way too low for me. The reel rollers bracket is longer allowing for a height of cut of around 1.75" -1.5" which is what i was going for. I also like that the reel roller is heavy and helps ground the mower at the front. At the highest hole position and the tallest roller position i can still fit the Mclane grass catcher (which i don't use) but worth noting.


----------



## LoveMyLawn

I see the roller pic now. :thumbup: A couple pics weren't loading for me last night. Good info. Thanks.


----------



## LawnDaddy

JimmyMika said:


> First time post here.
> 
> Here are some photos from my Mclane 20" restoration project. Bought this beauty for $100 on offer-up, tore it completely apart, sanded off rust, replaced bearings, and gave a fresh paint job. Let me know if you have any questions!


I have been searching to see if anyone had tore one of these apart to restore. Ive got a John Deere SR7 20" that I got off facebook marketplace for $40 and runs great. Ive already backlapped and it cuts paper all the way across. Just curious if theres any issues you ran into while tearing apart, removing rust, painting, or putting it all back together. Any info help thanks. Looks Great BTW


----------



## quadmasta

JimmyMika said:


> First time post here.
> 
> Here are some photos from my Mclane 20" restoration project. Bought this beauty for $100 on offer-up, tore it completely apart, sanded off rust, replaced bearings, and gave a fresh paint job. Let me know if you have any questions!
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get the bearings and how did you pull the ones off of the sides of the reel?


----------



## JRS 9572

JimmyMika said:


> First time post here.
> 
> Here are some photos from my Mclane 20" restoration project. Bought this beauty for $100 on offer-up, tore it completely apart, sanded off rust, replaced bearings, and gave a fresh paint job. Let me know if you have any questions!


My father in law. 100 miles away did the repairs on mine. He found a local auto parts shop, and found some american made bearings. He thought the bearings on the shaft were pretty flimsy. Hence the reason we were replacing them.

As for other parts or OEM bearings I've either gone to McClane's website https://www.mclaneedgers.com/productzones/20-reel-mower/#?machine=C&zone=2

or I've gone to these guys https://www.dolphinope.com/mcremopa.html


----------



## quadmasta

McLane's prices are outrageous. It looks like you've got a post '91 mower which changed A LOT about how the mower's assembled.


----------



## JRS 9572

You're right on the prices. I've kept them in business this year. LOL

I have one reel and bed knife that has some pot marks from hitting small rocks when I 1st moved into our new home. It cuts pretty well, but a new reel and bed knife would be awesome. Between the reel and bedknife brand new from McLane you would have almost $800.00 invested. That's a lot.


----------



## quadmasta

That's about where I'm at. A used Jake or GM1000 is about that much and replacement parts are about HALF of what McLane charges now.


----------



## JimmyMika

LawnDaddy said:


> JimmyMika said:
> 
> 
> 
> First time post here.
> 
> Here are some photos from my Mclane 20" restoration project. Bought this beauty for $100 on offer-up, tore it completely apart, sanded off rust, replaced bearings, and gave a fresh paint job. Let me know if you have any questions!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been searching to see if anyone had tore one of these apart to restore. Ive got a John Deere SR7 20" that I got off facebook marketplace for $40 and runs great. Ive already backlapped and it cuts paper all the way across. Just curious if theres any issues you ran into while tearing apart, removing rust, painting, or putting it all back together. Any info help thanks. Looks Great BTW
Click to expand...

This project started out with an idea to just do a quick facelift with new paint. As I tore into it I found a few things that could be replaced fairly easily.

First of all, I went to a hardware store and bought a bag of 5/16-18 x 3/4" and 1.5" flange head bolts to replace all of the fasteners. Kudos to Mclane for using one size for most of the assembly.

The rear wheel bearings were shot and this was the old design the is pressed into the side plate. (I noticed McLane has since updated it with a separable mounting plate). Next I couldn't find the correct bearing, for some reason the same size sealed bearing has an extended inner race.

My measurements were:
ID 5/8" , OD 1-3/8", Width 7/16", Flange OD 1.49", Flange thickness 0.06

I purchased two sealed PN: RF102214PP by NICE and had to do a little bit of grinding to get the final snap ring on the end of the shaft. The reel and v-belt jack-shaft bearings are higher quality sealed bearings and they felt good to leave original.

The Briggs and Stratton engine has a carb rebuild kit that I added to the old engine. 
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038U3HLI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EP9S0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This Video was a great help for working on the engine.





For the steel I sanded the rust off and repainted with Rust Oleum high temp engine paint, it just seemed like it would be worthwhile to go with engine paint.

The chains would have also been easy to replace but I just oiled them and put them back on. I figure if they aren't broken they should work for a while longer.

I would say be prepared to drill through stripped fasteners. I had to drill the heads off of 3 bolts on the mower frame and 1 on the engine in order to remove parts. Fortunately the threads weren't damaged just stripped bolts.


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

So I have a reel bearing plus the bearing retainer plate that I need to install on a 20" McLane reel. I removed the old one with 3 jaw puller, and I'm ready to put the new part(s) on. Or I will be, after I complete another unrelated repair.

Would you just tap the bearing onto the reel axle shaft with a socket and hammer, or would that be bad for the bearing? Do I need to use some kind of shop press instead? I don't have a shop press. I have found a deep well 17mm impact socket that has the right clearances. It clears the reel axle shaft in both diameter and depth, and it covers the inner race of the bearing without hitting on the ball bearing area. Will be using that socket with either method, and backing up the other end of the reel axle with a 16mm socket, so as not to be transferring any force to the ball bearings on the other side.
Thanks All.


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Good Morning, 
At the end of the season my chain started tearing my chain guard apart. The driveshaft sprocket appears to be shot. The mower was $79 and it appears what I need will be $114. I am assuming I have this correct but is this what I am looking for? Does anyone know if it comes with just the sprocket or do you need to buy the pulley part also? I am not sure how much I will use this mower but might use it for the part of the yard I don't want to bring my GM1000.



Thank you


----------



## LawnDaddy

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> Good Morning,
> At the end of the season my chain started tearing my chain guard apart. The driveshaft sprocket appears to be shot. The mower was $79 and it appears what I need will be $114. I am assuming I have this correct but is this what I am looking for? Does anyone know if it comes with just the sprocket or do you need to buy the pulley part also? I am not sure how much I will use this mower but might use it for the part of the yard I don't want to bring my GM1000.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you


Yes it is all one piece. It says pulley and sprocket also...


----------



## JRS 9572

Yeah it's a @#$% that you just can't buy the sprocket and replace it on the pulley.


----------



## LawnDaddy

Just wanted to share with everyone what I've been working on. Old John Deere 20 SR7 that I picked up for $40 off of Facebook. Engine ran fine but parts were $$$ so I decided to slap on a predator 212. Also got a good deal on the grooved roller from reel rollers during the presale period. Took the entire machine apart and replaced bolts and fasteners. All chains and bearings were in good shape. Still gotta install the throttle cable and the spacer for the support bracket to go around the air cleaner but other than that it's done. Already talked to reel works in Braselton about getting a fresh grind on the reel and bedknife.


----------



## The_iHenry

@LawnDaddy that thing looks cool


----------



## Gilley11

That's a great looking machine! Way better than Mclane colors...which I personally don't like (because of the yellow).


----------



## LawnDaddy

Yea I'm very happy with the way it turned out. Still having to keep an eye on the clutch belt. I ended up having to go with a 22" where 19.5" is stock size. I know some have been able to reuse the stock belt but I was unable. Ended up buying a 21" as well and it was too tight also.


----------



## Reelrollers

@lawndaddy, that is amazing! Trophy mower.


----------



## LawnDaddy

Reelrollers said:


> @lawndaddy, that is amazing! Trophy mower.


@Reelrollers The grooved roller is the star of the show!


----------



## JRS 9572

@LawnDaddy major props to you from a guy who would screw that up so bad. Takes real patience and skill to do that right. You did it.


----------



## LawnDaddy

JRS 9572 said:


> @LawnDaddy major props to you from a guy who would screw that up so bad. Takes real patience and skill to do that right. You did it.


@JRS 9572 Thank you


----------



## lucusmarcus

Used McLane for sale in Facebook marketplace. Would like some input on this model.

The post says "Lane Self propelled 20" Reel mower with new Briggs 5.5 hp motor. Includes grass catcher tub. Owner's Manual Included. Model # 20-3.5 RP10. As you can see from the last photo, the blades and the bedknife are sharp and in good shape"

Is the throttle missing or does this model not have one?


----------



## Spammage

Throttle adjustment cable is gone, but you can replace it or work around it.

The reel appears to have life left, but also looks like it needs to be ground.

The bedknife looks like it has life left too, but appears someone tried to put a sharp edge on it with a free hand angle grinder and doesn't look square to me. That could be an optical illusion though.


----------



## PhxHeat

The throtle cable is missing, but isn't necessarily needed either. The engine speed can be adjusted by the lever(s) on the side of it.

I adjust the briggs & stratton throttle and choke using the side levers that's on my hodge podge McLane I got from craigslist. It'd be a little more convenient to have a cable control lever, but I don't feel I've needed it yet.

I noticed the sticker on it ... Phoenix area.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

Hi everyone. Big thanks for all the info in this thread! I just picked up a used Mclane for under $100 and after using it a only couple of times my clutch belt went out. I'm ordering a few from amazon and hopefully one will work. I saw some people had mixed results so fingers crossed. I ordered a Pinhigh tub of lapping compound and plan on trying out the modified Harbor Freight tool. I just noticed I'm missing a screw on the B&S engine, anyone know if this is a huge concern? Last thing, the guy I bought it from said he taped the spark plug down because he was having trouble with it and it seemed to do the trick. I haven't messed with the tape yet. Any feedback/advice is greatly appreciated!!


----------



## Gilley11

That painter's tape &#128514;. He may have done that because the spark plug boot wasn't tight on the spark plug. Take off the boot and look inside and see what the metal looks like. You can probably just take a pair of needlenose pliers and reshape the metal for a tighter fit. It would be a good idea to put a little dielectric grease in there as well.

If the metal clip inside the boot is damaged, you can get a replacement for about $10, if that's a replaceable part on that model.


----------



## Gilley11

That blue tape would drive me insane. *Insane*. If nothing else, rip that off and wrap it with black, 3M Super 33 electrical tape. You can get it at any home center electrical dept.

Nice score on the mower, btw! :thumbup:


----------



## SoCalBermuda

Gilley11 said:
 

> That painter's tape 😂. He may have done that because the spark plug boot wasn't tight on the spark plug. Take off the boot and look inside and see what the metal looks like. You can probably just take a pair of needlenose pliers and reshape the metal for a tighter fit. It would be a good idea to put a little dielectric grease in there as well.
> 
> If the metal clip inside the boot is damaged, you can get a replacement for about $10, if that's a replaceable part on that model.


Here's what I found under the blue masking tape.


----------



## Gilley11

Looks like it's missing the piece that screws onto the top of the spark plug. A new plug will come with it.


----------



## Gilley11

Or maybe it's still in the plug boot? If it is, pull it out and screw it tightly back on the plug.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

Gilley11 said:


> Or maybe it's still in the plug boot? If it is, pull it out and screw it tightly back on the plug.


I'm not familiar with spark plugs so thanks for walking me through this. Here's what I pulled out of the boot. It's threaded though and through or it's threaded on both sides, I can't tell. There's nothing left in the boot as far as threading. I was able to screw the side that looks a little oblong onto the top of the spark plug and it seems to connect to the boot fairly.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

She fired up on the *second* pull. No blue tape required 
I probably need to swap the spark plug though anyways. I'm getting a new clutch belt tomorrow so I have to wait to give her a full test drive to make sure it doesn't come loose. I got the black electrical tape on deck should I need it.


----------



## Gilley11

Awesome glad you got it!


----------



## SoCalBermuda

I saw Chippydips post about replacing the handle grips and I followed his lead and upgraded. Feels much better, worth the $10! I had some random foam handles and put them on the drive handle.


----------



## Art James

I finally bit the bullet and pulled the trigger on a Mclane 7 blade this weekend. It seems in decent condition. Started on the second pull. Reel spins pretty easily. When I looked at it the reel to bedknife was really off. Not even close. I adjusted everything today. I knew it wouldn't cut paper because the blades aren't sharp. Does anyone think I can get away with a backlap?


----------



## SoCalBermuda

Art James said:


> I finally bit the bullet and pulled the trigger on a Mclane 7 blade this weekend. It seems in decent condition. Started on the second pull. Reel spins pretty easily. When I looked at it the reel to bedknife was really off. Not even close. I adjusted everything today. I knew it wouldn't cut paper because the blades aren't sharp. Does anyone think I can get away with a backlap?


Nice mower! Looks like similar or better condition than mine, I've only had it a for a few weeks. My Mclane cut surprisingly well, but since it's my first reel mower and my lawn is mediocre I'm probably just easily impressed. After my second mow most of the rust on my edges came off. I ordered lapping compound and am going to go through that process next weekend.


----------



## Art James

SoCalBermuda said:


> Art James said:
> 
> 
> 
> I finally bit the bullet and pulled the trigger on a Mclane 7 blade this weekend. It seems in decent condition. Started on the second pull. Reel spins pretty easily. When I looked at it the reel to bedknife was really off. Not even close. I adjusted everything today. I knew it wouldn't cut paper because the blades aren't sharp. Does anyone think I can get away with a backlap?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice mower! Looks like similar or better condition than mine, I've only had it a for a few weeks. My Mclane cut surprisingly well, but since it's my first reel mower and my lawn is mediocre I'm probably just easily impressed. After my second mow most of the rust on my edges came off. I ordered lapping compound and am going to go through that process next weekend.
Click to expand...

I'm hoping I don't have to get a relief grind. I'm going to try to backlap first and see how it does after. It cuts right now but won't cut paper at all. Going to order the roller soon as well.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

Art James said:


> SoCalBermuda said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Art James said:
> 
> 
> 
> I finally bit the bullet and pulled the trigger on a Mclane 7 blade this weekend. It seems in decent condition. Started on the second pull. Reel spins pretty easily. When I looked at it the reel to bedknife was really off. Not even close. I adjusted everything today. I knew it wouldn't cut paper because the blades aren't sharp. Does anyone think I can get away with a backlap?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice mower! Looks like similar or better condition than mine, I've only had it a for a few weeks. My Mclane cut surprisingly well, but since it's my first reel mower and my lawn is mediocre I'm probably just easily impressed. After my second mow most of the rust on my edges came off. I ordered lapping compound and am going to go through that process next weekend.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm hoping I don't have to get a relief grind. I'm going to try to backlap first and see how it does after. It cuts right now but won't cut paper at all. Going to order the roller soon as well.
Click to expand...

I'm taking a similar path. Going to see how it cuts after I backlap. I got a quote on getting the bed knife sharpened at about $45, probably do that anyways in May. I already gave my wife the heads up that I'm ordering a roller very soon too, since it's going to be twice as much as I got the mower for. I'm thinking of picking up the grooved roller from reelrollers but haven't decided yet.


----------



## Bmossin

Anyone know of the 10 blade reel for the 20in greenskeeper model will fit the regular 20in model?


----------



## quadmasta

Bmossin said:


> Anyone know of the 10 blade reel for the 20in greenskeeper model will fit the regular 20in model?


As far as I'm aware they're the same except for the roller and the blade to bedknife adjustment


----------



## Bmossin

quadmasta said:


> Bmossin said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know of the 10 blade reel for the 20in greenskeeper model will fit the regular 20in model?
> 
> 
> 
> As far as I'm aware they're the same except for the roller and the blade to bedknife adjustment
Click to expand...

That could work out in my favor.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

I was watching a video about changing the oil on a B&S engine and noticed the model used had a dipstick attached to the oil cap. Mine does not. Anyone know if it's only on certain models? My parts manual doesn't show a dipstick either. Curious if I could order one possibly from a different model.


----------



## quadmasta

The side cover of the engine hasn't changed much in decades. I'd bet you could put a newer part on an older engine.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

Just gave my first go at backlapping. I got my Pinhigh compound and couldn't wait until the weekend to mess around with backlapping. The harbor freight tool worked pretty well on the sprocket you spin the reel. The reel to bedknife adjusting was a pain though. Any advice for a noob? Not sure how well I got it and I have to wait for the weekend to mow.


----------



## quadmasta

Anybody got any tips or tricks for preventing the drive wheels from slipping on the drum?


----------



## Slim 1938

I bought a 20" 7 blade McLane on bookface for 175. It has a 4 horse briggs engine. It needs backlapped but bedknife looks good. The wheels, bearings and sprockets look good but i did notice that the chains are a tad loose. It starts up on first pull and idles really nice. Does loose chains mean i need to replace soon or is there an adjustment. It needs cleaning up a bit but i think ittl be alright. Maybe after while ill upgrade. Thanks in advance


----------



## NoslracNevok

@Slim 1938 What does the reel chain look like? Mine has been doing just fine for a year, with roughly a .5" droop in it.


----------



## Slim 1938

NoslracNevok said:


> @Slim 1938 What does the reel chain look like? Mine has been doing just fine for a year, with roughly a .5" droop in it.


Mines probably the same as yours. Its not to much sagg but i didn't know if that was normal. It seems to run fine.


----------



## quadmasta

Even if the reel chain gets worn it'll still work it'll just start chewing into the guard and the brackets the guard bolts to. What happens is that the pins wear inside the sleeves of the links allowing it to get longer.


----------



## Slim 1938

quadmasta said:


> Even if the reel chain gets worn it'll still work it'll just start chewing into the guard and the brackets the guard bolts to. What happens is that the pins wear inside the sleeves of the links allowing it to get longer.


Cool. Makes sense. I just as well replace them before it causes damage. Thanks


----------



## quadmasta

Make sure you get replacement chain by counting links and not measuring!


----------



## Slim 1938

quadmasta said:


> Make sure you get replacement chain by counting links and not measuring!


Great info. Thanks


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> Good Morning,
> At the end of the season my chain started tearing my chain guard apart. The driveshaft sprocket appears to be shot. The mower was $79 and it appears what I need will be $114. I am assuming I have this correct but is this what I am looking for? Does anyone know if it comes with just the sprocket or do you need to buy the pulley part also? I am not sure how much I will use this mower but might use it for the part of the yard I don't want to bring my GM1000.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you


I ended up getting the replacement part on this. Anyone ever change one out, it doesn't look too difficult but anything to keep in mind while doing it, helpful hints?


----------



## quadmasta

It's way easier to do if you remove the handlebar brace on that side. After that it's just removing the master link on the drive chain and 5 bolts. Might as well replace your drive chain and belt while you're at it.


----------



## quadmasta

I was having a lot of wheel slip when going up my big hill. I took the drum off of my parts mower, hit it with a wire wheel, primed it, then put two light coats of rubberized undercoating on it, then put new tires on. Definitely fixed the issue


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

quadmasta said:


> It's way easier to do if you remove the handlebar brace on that side. After that it's just removing the master link on the drive chain and 5 bolts. Might as well replace your drive chain and belt while you're at it.


Thanks for the tip @quadmasta, it was pretty easy to switch out the part. Old chain didn't fit but the new one I ordered, based on your feedback, fit perfectly. Needless to say, the old one was pretty worn down!



Got rid of the blue and pink paint job and went with all black and threw some car decals on it. I like the new look of it, although I don't really use it.


----------



## quadmasta

You have to keep an pretty close eye on that chain or you have to replace the jackshaft if it gets too worn because it destroys that cog like it did on yours.


----------



## Art James

I'm having some possible concerns getting my Mclane going. I tried backlapping and I'm not sure why, but it seems not to get sharp enough to cut paper. I could possibly have the reel to bedknife off but I adjust it to where it's either just making contact or just about to make contact. I cut with it today and it didn't seem to cut very well. Almost seems like it was pulling some of the grass rather than clipping it. How long do people usually backlap? How much contact should you be aiming for when backlapping? What should the blades look like after it's done? Also, if anyone had any pics of their blades after a backlap or the reel to bedknife that might help out. Sorry for the long post I'm just ready to mow reel low.


----------



## quadmasta

I backlap until I can get it to cut paper evenly across the whole reel. I lower the reel until it just touches on the highest spot. and I can still turn it by hand without much effort. I use the 80 grit if it's way off and go until it cuts paper the whole way across and then clean all of that off and put on 120 grit to even up the edge. I then repeat that whole process with 120 after I cut with it a few times.


----------



## Art James

How long does it take you to backlap? I probably spent at least 10 minutes turning it and went through a lot of compound.


----------



## SGrabs33

Art James said:


> How long does it take you to backlap? I probably spent at least 10 minutes turning it and went through a lot of compound.


That's too long. 30 seconds to a minute really. You should hear it making less noise after grit/reel has honed itself. Then wash off grit. Dry the reel. Try the paper test. If it's not cutting paper then re-adjust the reel to bedknife and backlap again.

Have you shared pics of your reel/bedknife. It may be worn down enough where a grind is needed.


----------



## Art James

Here are some photos. Still has somewhat of a relief to it. Not real sure how sharp the blades should feel also.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Art James yep, the REEL looks like it should be in good shape. Just try the below order if it's a little different that what else you have been doing.

That's too long. 30 seconds to a minute really. You should hear it making less noise after grit/reel has honed itself. Then wash off grit. Dry the reel. Try the paper test. If it's not cutting paper then re-adjust the reel to bedknife and backlap again.


----------



## Art James

SGrabs33 said:


> @Art James yep, the REEL looks like it should be in good shape. Just try the below order if it's a little different that what else you have been doing.
> 
> That's too long. 30 seconds to a minute really. You should hear it making less noise after grit/reel has honed itself. Then wash off grit. Dry the reel. Try the paper test. If it's not cutting paper then re-adjust the reel to bedknife and backlap again.


Thanks for the feedback. I'll give it another shot.


----------



## quadmasta

I was mowing today and the drive wheel chain came off and jammed everything up. That was fun. I ordered a new drive wheel chain and while I was at it ordered a new jackshaft chain since the mower's down for a while. Good thing I looked at the jackshaft chain as it had a few links that were completely rusted together.

What do you use for lubrication/protection of the chain? I've got some 3 in 1 garage door spring/roller oil I was thinking I could try since it's lightweight and it's meant to stay coated on whatever it's sprayed on.


----------



## Mister Bill

quadmasta said:


> I was mowing today and the drive wheel chain came off and jammed everything up. That was fun. I ordered a new drive wheel chain and while I was at it ordered a new jackshaft chain since the mower's down for a while. Good thing I looked at the jackshaft chain as it had a few links that were completely rusted together.
> 
> What do you use for lubrication/protection of the chain? I've got some 3 in 1 garage door spring/roller oil I was thinking I could try since it's lightweight and it's meant to stay coated on whatever it's sprayed on.


I use motorcycle chain lubricant.


----------



## anthonybilotta

Hey guys does this look like a good deal ? 2016 Mclane with front roller for around 500 ?

https://houston.craigslist.org/grd/d/katy-20-mclane-self-propelled-reel-mower/7106009071.html


----------



## quadmasta

anthonybilotta said:


> Hey guys does this look like a good deal ? 2016 Mclane with front roller for around 500 ?
> 
> https://houston.craigslist.org/grd/d/katy-20-mclane-self-propelled-reel-mower/7106009071.html


Seems reasonable


----------



## SGrabs33

anthonybilotta said:


> Hey guys does this look like a good deal ? 2016 Mclane with front roller for around 500 ?
> 
> https://houston.craigslist.org/grd/d/katy-20-mclane-self-propelled-reel-mower/7106009071.html


Looks like a descent deal. Looks clean and already has the front roller. See if it's cutting paper across the whole bedknife. If not it prob need a backlap but you may be able to talk them down $50 or 100.


----------



## paper-monkeys

__
https://flic.kr/p/2iP2e6b



__
https://flic.kr/p/2iP2dAd



__
https://flic.kr/p/2iP3TSo

Picked up this Craftsman / Mclane style reel mower the other day for a smooth $75.00 after looking all over the web I came across this forum. I backlapped the reel as it had some rust on it and the bedknife edge. It will be a few weeks before I drop it LOW being the squirrels have reeked havoc on the lawn "looking" for a nut. The guy I picked it up from said it was used for a month before his parents hired the lawn maintenance out . It came with the catch basket .


----------



## bhutchinson87

Is 3hp the standard motor size? I bought a used one last year and it came with a 6.5hp predator engine.


----------



## Mister Bill

bhutchinson87 said:


> Is 3hp the standard motor size? I bought a used one last year and it came with a 6.5hp predator engine.


Standard depends on the year. The Predator is a replacement engine.


----------



## msantaspirt

I know engines will vary, but does anyone have a video of how to change the oil on one of these?


----------



## mbr961

So tried the duct tape method for backlapping and didn't have good success. Duct tape came off so I made this little contraption from a version I saw on a random YouTube video. It worked great.

I took off the sprocket and placed it on the piece of wood. I marked out the spots I wanted and drilled my holes for the screws. Then I drilled a hole for the reverse threaded nut and bolt. The reverse threaded but and bolt is the key. Without those a regular bolt would just come loose.

Put the sprocket back on the mower and go to town.


----------



## smcguinness

I'm curious if anyone has any tricks for how to measure HOC for the Mclane? I've seen tools for other mowers but haven't seen anything that seems to fit a universal measure. I'd like to get my HOC really dialed in this year. I've been going off of the manual but for some reason it doesn't seem accurate.


----------



## SGrabs33

smcguinness said:


> I'm curious if anyone has any tricks for how to measure HOC for the Mclane? I've seen tools for other mowers but haven't seen anything that seems to fit a universal measure. I'd like to get my HOC really dialed in this year. I've been going off of the manual but for some reason it doesn't seem accurate.


Make one of these for it. HOC Bar


----------



## quadmasta

msantaspirt said:


> I know engines will vary, but does anyone have a video of how to change the oil on one of these?


If you've got a briggs your best bet is removing the rear wheels or if you can get it up on some stands to where you can just let the wheels drop forward it'll work. There's a square bolt on the back of the engine. Get a plastic bottle and cut it so it makes a funnel under there and remove the bolt. You'll need to remove the oil fill cover too or it won't drain.


----------



## msantaspirt

quadmasta said:


> msantaspirt said:
> 
> 
> 
> I know engines will vary, but does anyone have a video of how to change the oil on one of these?
> 
> 
> 
> If you've got a briggs your best bet is removing the rear wheels or if you can get it up on some stands to where you can just let the wheels drop forward it'll work. There's a square bolt on the back of the engine. Get a plastic bottle and cut it so it makes a funnel under there and remove the bolt. You'll need to remove the oil fill cover too or it won't drain.
Click to expand...

It's a Kawasaki FA130D but I assume it's relatively similar. I'll check it out later tonight. Thanks for the help!


----------



## quadmasta

If the drain's in the back getting the wheels out of the way is the only real way to get a catch pan in there


----------



## JRS 9572

@msantaspirt I quit trying to figure out where to drain. I just use one of these to vacuum out the old oil where you add in oil. Makes it real easy, and is worth the expense since according to MFG's recommendation I need to change oil about 3 times a mowing season.

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-24937-Pneumatic-Manual-Extractor/dp/B07N7YV5GN/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=oil+change+pump&qid=1587496143&sr=8-1&swrs=4F3AACE94190E85C3D787500E9E07EED


----------



## SwBermuda

Ok so I just finished a little mow and right as I was about to roll back to the shed I go to squeeze the throttle and it won't pull up to the handlebars. Now the drive wheel was engaging when I tried to pull the throttle but not as it normally should.

Any ideas?



http://imgur.com/BNE9qbu


----------



## SoCalBermuda

SwBermuda said:


> Ok so I just finished a little mow and right as I was about to roll back to the shed I go to squeeze the throttle and it won't pull up to the handlebars. Now the drive wheel was engaging when I tried to pull the throttle but not as it normally should.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/BNE9qbu


You can adjust the length of the bar by spinning the nut about midway on the bar. Maybe it got adjusted during your mow and it now it's a little shorter than before and so it's not coming all the way back up to the handle now. I had to mess with it when I swapped out my clutch belt. Not sure if the tightness means that your clutch belt is going out, might be a good idea to give it a quick inspection.


----------



## SwBermuda

SoCalBermuda said:


> SwBermuda said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ok so I just finished a little mow and right as I was about to roll back to the shed I go to squeeze the throttle and it won't pull up to the handlebars. Now the drive wheel was engaging when I tried to pull the throttle but not as it normally should.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/BNE9qbu
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can adjust the length of the bar by spinning the nut about midway on the bar. Maybe it got adjusted during your mow and it now it's a little shorter than before and so it's not coming all the way back up to the handle now. I had to mess with it when I swapped out my clutch belt. Not sure if the tightness means that your clutch belt is going out, might be a good idea to give it a quick inspection.
Click to expand...

Think clutch belt is definitely showing its age. I'll check the nut on the bar but I think i fiddled with it and that thing wasn't moving. Appreciate the advice!


----------



## conroyz28

Does anybody know or have a write up on how to replace the rear tires(not the center drove tires) but the otter wheels. One of my tires came loose and is in bad shape. Thanks


----------



## quadmasta

conroyz28 said:


> Does anybody know or have a write up on how to replace the rear tires(not the center drove tires) but the otter wheels. One of my tires came loose and is in bad shape. Thanks


The process will vary depending on when your mower was made. Newer mowers have bearing carriers that are bolted into the side plates. You unbolt those and the parts that hold the bearing to the mower "deck", remove the chains, and it'll come out. If it's older it's got bearings that are pressed into the side plates and the axle is retained by a circlip at either side. You'll have to remove those and it's most likely going to be easier to unbolt one side of the mower completely and then the bolts that hold the axle bearings to the mower "deck", remove the chains, and it should all come out. Chances are it'll have corrosion at every single point it goes through a bearing or cog.


----------



## Jake1984

I'm trying to lower the hight of cut as low as it will go. When I set everything up like the manual calls for and put it in the lowest setting the front roller comes off the ground and the bed knife is dragging on the ground. One notch up and the bed knife is just off the ground. Does this setup look correct?


----------



## LoveMyLawn

I'm new to this. Got mine a few months ago. I'm in the middle hole. Which I assume is B on your page. And in notch #4. I mowed yesterday and just went and measured a few spots. I'm right around 5/8-3/4 tops. According to your page I should be at 1-3/16". Mines an older model. Not sure if that changes anything.


----------



## bigmanmow

Hi all,
new to the forum and happy to be here. I have been looking for a reel mower and there is not much in the area I live. The one brand that does seem to pop up a bit is the Mclane mower. I see picture that show some models have the wheels on the front and some don't. I am concerned the wheels will dig into the turf! am I worried for nothing? are these a modification easily changed?

thanks


----------



## quadmasta

Jake1984 said:


> I'm trying to lower the hight of cut as low as it will go. When I set everything up like the manual calls for and put it in the lowest setting the front roller comes off the ground and the bed knife is dragging on the ground. One notch up and the bed knife is just off the ground. Does this setup look correct?


Everything's different as far as what you can do since you changed the wheels to a roller. To measure height of cut you're going to have to use a straight edge from the roller to the rear wheels (not the drive wheels) and measure to the top of the bedknife. If you've got a newer mower and it looks like the the one in your manual picture, did you move the rear axle?


----------



## SoCalBermuda

bigmanmow said:


> Hi all,
> new to the forum and happy to be here. I have been looking for a reel mower and there is not much in the area I live. The one brand that does seem to pop up a bit is the Mclane mower. I see picture that show some models have the wheels on the front and some don't. I am concerned the wheels will dig into the turf! am I worried for nothing? are these a modification easily changed?
> 
> thanks


Welcome! Entry level Mclane's do come with "shopping cart" caster wheels while some top of the line models come with rollers already installed. You are correct with your concerns regarding the caster wheels, especially if your lawn is uneven or bumpy and you plan to mow low. The good news is that you can swap out the caster wheels with a roller, either a DIY version or a prefab roller. I actually just upgraded my Mclane from caster wheels to a grooved front roller from @Reelrollers (check out their shop here: https://reelrollers.com/shop-front-rollers/) because my lawn is pretty bumpy right now. The cut is much better with the front roller and I do not scalp my grass at all now. There's not too many reel mowers in my area as well, although I was only searching for a used mower. I was able to find mine on OfferUp for less than $100. I did a quick search of northern Washington (Everett) and looks like there's a couple of used options available for less than $300, not sure the prospects north of the border though. Good luck with your search!


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

@LoveMyLawn The McLane manual is literally backasswards in the way it assigns heights to notches in the height adjustment bar. position #4 is supposed to be 1-3/16" acc. to the manual right? (if front axle is in "B" range), yet it is substantially lower as you observed. #4 is the farthest notch back on the adjustment bar. As you move the adjuster back, the front axle swings out and away from the mower, lowering the front of the mower and the bedknife towards the ground. And when you move the adjuster to the forward notches, the front axle draws closer to the mower, raising the bedknife. The backmost notches are lower, and the front ones are higher. They simply have all positions and heights reversed in the manual. In B range, the #4 position is not 1-3/16" it's 7/8". And they haven't corrected this mistake in what must be well over 20 years.

Also be on the lookout for this typo: the manual indicates that In the "A" range 1-1/16" is the highest position. It's actually 11/16". Even though I quickly realized that the manual states all the heights in reverse order it still took me some years to figure out that it also misstates the top of "A" range by over a quarter of an inch. Somebody just stuck a hyphen in 11/16 and got 1-1/16 instead, and this too has gone uncorrected for decades.

@Jake1984: at the lowest setting in "A" you are nominally cutting at .25". Tilt the mower back and guestimate the rise of the McLane bedknife from the bottom surface to the edge where the reel and knife meet. If that isn't .25" it's really close. Your lawn would have to be as flat and smooth as a billiard table for the bedknife not to drag on the ground on the mower's very lowest setting. The angle of the McLane bedknife design is supposed to push grass blades together, gathering them to cut. But it's going to work best at certain heights. It's possible to set the McLane up for 1.5" but from what I've seen using it above 1" on zoysia, the cut wouldn't be very consistent in height. The grass will be flopping over in all directions at that kind of height, if the grass in question is anything like the zeon zoysia I've cut, and the bedknife design won't be gathering the blades up effectively anymore to cut them at a constant length. At the other extreme, the bedknife angle would smush very short blades down and aside rather than gather them. And as you've noticed at the very lowest position, the bottom of the bedknife is dragging -and bouncing- on the ground.


----------



## bigmanmow

Thanks @SoCalBermuda 
i actually came across a ad last night that has 4 greens master 1000 for sale in my area. guy wants $200 cdn per and says they run but need work. when asked what they need was told bed knife and new cables. His ad suggests buy 2 and build a really good one out of the 2.
the Mclane was asking $750.
seams like even parts are tough to get up here as well.


----------



## Jake1984

I figured since I had a front roller inplace of the wheels, that was possibly the problem for the bedknife dragging in the lowest setting. So I switched the position of the bolt on the hight adjustment lever.



Now I can lower it as low as it will go and not drag on the bedknife. I measured all four positions with the roller in the lowest setting and I get ½, ⅝, ¾ and ⅞. I scalped the lawn before I changed it around and it was probably cutting around ⅜-½. I was getting some spots down to dirt. I cut today at ¾, may go down to ⅝ in a couple of days.



Thanks for everyone's input.


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

I wonder if anyone has ever moved the rear axle to the low position. A lower rear axle position exists acc. to the manual but I've never heard any other mention of it.


----------



## quadmasta

Groundskeeper Willie said:


> I wonder if anyone has ever moved the rear axle to the low position. A lower rear axle position exists acc. to the manual but I've never heard any other mention of it.


Only on newer models. Older models had bearings pressed into the sides and cannot be moved (this is my parts mower now) Newer models switched to a bearing carrier that sits inside of the side and is bolted from the outside. I don't know what happens to the center axle bearings on the newer style but I assume there's some adjustment that needs to happen there as well.


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

The hangers in the center have upper and lower sets of holes. I got better acquainted with what goes on up in there back in February, when I replaced a broken rear axle.

The manual details how to raise the rear axle to high position, but doesn't say anything about lowering it except to show that it's a possible configuration in the diagram. The stock config uses the upper hole on the hangers. To lower the axle you'd have to use the lower holes I guess.


----------



## aznick

Looking to get my first reel mower. I've been looking around for a few weeks and came across this one for sale on facebook.







According to the description, it starts right up and he just had it serviced and sharpened. The seller was asking for $200, and I figured it wouldn't hurt to offer $175. He accepted, and then told me that just as a heads up that the belt is frayed and not enough tension to turn the reel.

This is my first foray into reel mowers. I've tried re-reading past threads on here and figuring out what to look for. I also have a co-worker who has a McLane reel mower. He says the frayed belt isn't a big deal to replace. He just cautions that I should inspect the reel and bedknife to make sure that is functioning properly. But I just want to get any other opinions I can. Anything else I should be worried about? Does this seem like a good deal? Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## Pamboys09

aznick said:


> Looking to get my first reel mower. I've been looking around for a few weeks and came across this one for sale on facebook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to the description, it starts right up and he just had it serviced and sharpened. The seller was asking for $200, and I figured it wouldn't hurt to offer $175. He accepted, and then told me that just as a heads up that the belt is frayed and not enough tension to turn the reel.
> 
> This is my first foray into reel mowers. I've tried re-reading past threads on here and figuring out what to look for. I also have a co-worker who has a McLane reel mower. He says the frayed belt isn't a big deal to replace. He just cautions that I should inspect the reel and bedknife to make sure that is functioning properly. But I just want to get any other opinions I can. Anything else I should be worried about? Does this seem like a good deal? Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!


I have a Mclane, and if ever gonna buy again, they most important part that I will check is the:

Engine - yup very important, make sure it runs good. It if doesnt, most of the time the carb is dirty, The way they build mclane is there's alot of plastic part you need to remove to access the Carb. Its a very easy to clean, just need to put hours.

Bedknife and Reel life - this is expensive to replace for Mclane, Make sure there's no major damage on both.

From the mclanes I shop with, nothing cuts paper, and I think its very common. If you have BackLap Compound and tools this is very easy.

For the belt, I would not worry about it that much, but i will still check it.
Try to bargain for $100 since there's a problem.

At the end of the day, I switched right away to Greensmower because its a commercial built, affordable parts and etc.

Cheers.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

aznick said:


> Looking to get my first reel mower. I've been looking around for a few weeks and came across this one for sale on facebook.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> According to the description, it starts right up and he just had it serviced and sharpened. The seller was asking for $200, and I figured it wouldn't hurt to offer $175. He accepted, and then told me that just as a heads up that the belt is frayed and not enough tension to turn the reel.
> 
> This is my first foray into reel mowers. I've tried re-reading past threads on here and figuring out what to look for. I also have a co-worker who has a McLane reel mower. He says the frayed belt isn't a big deal to replace. He just cautions that I should inspect the reel and bedknife to make sure that is functioning properly. But I just want to get any other opinions I can. Anything else I should be worried about? Does this seem like a good deal? Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks!


Looks like a brand new machine compared to the used one I picked up last summer for $100. If I saw that for sale within an hours' drive from me I would pick it up, however the second hand market in my area is fairly dry. My clutch belt went out on me the second time I used it but was able to replace it myself for $10. You can find the clutch belt on amazon and info on how to change it in this thread as well as on YouTube. You want to check the bedknife and make sure it's not totally jacked up as it's $100+ to replace as well as the reel. The reel is $250+ to replace. Pricing On parts may be more depending on where you buy. From the photos it does seem to have a recent edge put on as the metal edge on the reel seems to be nice and shiny. Getting it serviced could be between $50 and $100 alone.

This is the belt that I ordered and installed. Works fine for my machine. 
Oregon 75-120 Replacement Belt for McLane 1060, 1/2-inch x 19-inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018TWGLI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FXmTEb0FQXM3E


----------



## quadmasta

That engine alone is worth what you've offered. That's a newer model with the newer deadman clutch installed. Don't use the old belt as a guide to order a new one as there are at least two different sizes commonly sold on Amazon for McLane mowers and only one will fit and not cause problems when it stretches. Measure it yourself.


----------



## JT112673

Brand new here and just ordered a brand new McLane 25 inch with the Honda motor from the factory and the grooved front roller from Reel Rollers. Not sure how long it'll take to ship to Colorado, but I'm excited to go lower than 2". I've been mowing with a Wright 32" for 5 years and a little Honda for the edging. I have a feeling this forum is going to get very addicting. Thanks for all the information.


----------



## Nate123890

I just bought my second McLane reel mower from a pawn shop but it is an older one. I believe it is an 80's model. It turns on after a couple of try's and actually cuts very nice. It is a 5 blade 2.0 HP Briggs & Stratton engine. I wanted to know if this mower is worth more than I paid for it ($48). I also want to know if I should invest tuning it up and painting it. I did take the wheels off FYI. Thanks all!


----------



## Pamboys09

I wonder if there's a way to modify the reel adjuster like the greens mower?
anyone experiment on this?


----------



## ja3415

I have had my 20" McLane Reel mower for 15+ years and love it. I decided to go through it and replace some parts that are worn (drive belt, chains etc.) I want to replace the flange bearing in the CLUTCH CONTROL LEVER it is pretty worn as well as the other 2 or 3 at the ends of the rods (visually they appear to be the same bearing). The holes have become worn and they all rattle quite a bit. I can't seem to find the part in the McLane manual (without buying the complete Control Lever). I found one online I thought would work based on me measuring the outside and inside diameters. When they came in they were just a bit too small (no surprise). I don't want to keep buying slightly larger ones until I get ones that fit. 
Has anyone replaced these Flange Bearings how/where did you find the correct size?
Thanks


----------



## ja3415

UPdate, of course right after I post this I find the Part Number and can find them in several places (including McLane web site) Part Numbers 1046-D and 1002 are both the same. Less than $10 each


----------



## quadmasta

I need to do this. The bearing on my drive lever is completely shot to shit. I've adjusted it so it still works


----------



## ja3415

I purchased mine on eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162188639117


----------



## jwannall

my Mclane 20" with B&R 3.5 dies when I engage the reel. It will idle if choke is on but as soon as I turn Choke off engine dies as well. Bought 3 weeks ago and have cut my 3/4 acre 4 or 5 times with no problem. Using the Truefuel 0 ethanol fuel , air filter is new, seller told me he just changed the oil..Any advice will be greatly appreciated!


----------



## quadmasta

jwannall said:


> my Mclane 20" with B&R 3.5 dies when I engage the reel. It will idle if choke is on but as soon as I turn Choke off engine dies as well. Bought 3 weeks ago and have cut my 3/4 acre 4 or 5 times with no problem. Using the Truefuel 0 ethanol fuel , air filter is new, seller told me he just changed the oil..Any advice will be greatly appreciated!


Does the reel spin if you try to move it by hand? Are the drive wheels touching the deck when they're up? If you remove the chain from the jack shaft does it spin freely?


----------



## jwannall

quadmasta said:


> jwannall said:
> 
> 
> 
> my Mclane 20" with B&R 3.5 dies when I engage the reel. It will idle if choke is on but as soon as I turn Choke off engine dies as well. Bought 3 weeks ago and have cut my 3/4 acre 4 or 5 times with no problem. Using the Truefuel 0 ethanol fuel , air filter is new, seller told me he just changed the oil..Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> Does the reel spin if you try to move it by hand? Are the drive wheels touching the deck when they're up? If you remove the chain from the jack shaft does it spin freely?
Click to expand...

the reel spins by hand and when I engage with left hand lever (clutch?). Drive wheels appear to be in same position they have always been when in the up position. I'm not confident enough to remove the chain from the jack shaft. Do you think it could be a dirty carb? Thank you for the response


----------



## quadmasta

If the gas tank is metal and it wasn't stored either completely full of fuel with stabilizer or completely empty it's probably rusty which is clogging the carb. Pull the carb and the tank and dump the fuel into a pan and see if there's rust in it. Another common problem that that causes is the diaphragm on the side of the carb gets distorted. The good news is that there's only really 1 part in that entire carb that usually needs to be replaced and that's the diaphragm. The rest of the seals and whatnot are pretty resiliant. If there's any rust in the tank, you're lookin at about $70 for a replacement, unfortunately.


----------



## jwannall

Thank you so much , I appreciate it big time! Cheers


----------



## aznick

So when I went to buy my McLane reel mower last week, the guy I bought it from said he had 2 other McLane reel mowers sitting in his backyard. Neither of them would start, but he didn't know what the issue was. He just wanted to get rid of them. So at no extra price to me, he said I could take them if I wanted them. I figured why not. So I took them with me. However, I'm not mechanically inclined and I don't have room to store 3 reel mowers in my garage. So I decided to sell them. I'm not looking to make lots of money from flipping them. That wasn't my intent in taking them in the first place. I thought I could maybe use them for parts. But like I said, I don't have room to store them for an extended period of time. So I just want to get rid of them. As you can see from the pictures, they're not in terrible shape. The one on the right is pretty decent. And like I said, I'm not mechanically inclined. They don't start, but I don't know why or have the time to tinker with them or figure out why. So based on that information, what would be a fair selling price for them? I'd like to sell them together. Based on what I've seen on offerup and craigslist in my area, ones that have issues starting go anywhere from $50-100. What do you guys think? Or should I just give them to goodwill or some place like that since I pretty much got them for free. Not looking to start an ethical debate here.


----------



## Bmossin

aznick said:


> So when I went to buy my McLane reel mower last week, the guy I bought it from said he had 2 other McLane reel mowers sitting in his backyard. Neither of them would start, but he didn't know what the issue was. He just wanted to get rid of them. So at no extra price to me, he said I could take them if I wanted them. I figured why not. So I took them with me. However, I'm not mechanically inclined and I don't have room to store 3 reel mowers in my garage. So I decided to sell them. I'm not looking to make lots of money from flipping them. That wasn't my intent in taking them in the first place. I thought I could maybe use them for parts. But like I said, I don't have room to store them for an extended period of time. So I just want to get rid of them. As you can see from the pictures, they're not in terrible shape. The one on the right is pretty decent. And like I said, I'm not mechanically inclined. They don't start, but I don't know why or have the time to tinker with them or figure out why. So based on that information, what would be a fair selling price for them? I'd like to sell them together. Based on what I've seen on offerup and craigslist in my area, ones that have issues starting go anywhere from $50-100. What do you guys think? Or should I just give them to goodwill or some place like that since I pretty much got them for free. Not looking to start an ethical debate here.


I wish you were in DFW...


----------



## Two_Rivers

What kind of shape are the reel and bed knifes in? The cost of new ones is ridiculous now a days.


----------



## Agent Lazy

Picked up an older model yesterday. Non running with a Montgomery Ward engine. 
I'm pretty sure the engine is an aftermarket one he put on. I'm not even sure it runs. I've already taken it off for the predator swap.

Reel spins ok, needs ************, but no noticable nicks.

I do need a right side sprocket cover if anyone has one I can buy?


----------



## PhxHeat

AzNick. sent you a pm.


----------



## a_chan

Out of curiosity, what's a reasonable price for a used Mclane that's been serviced at an actual shop? There's one listed nearby me for around $400 which is obviously more than the "used and abused" models. Assuming everything's working good and it passes the paper cut test. Not really considering a fixer-upper one and rather get cutting sooner than trying to troubleshoot.


----------



## Greendoc

That is a fair price for a used and ready to run one. Keep in mind that they are now over $1500 new. A bedknife for one is almost $200. A reel assembly is $500. That is for the parts alone not including labor to install and backlap in.


----------



## ZEM

Picked up a Mclane this weekend, attaching some pics. Would I be wasting my time trying to backlap this one?.....seems as though the bedknife adjustments are just about as low as they can go. Would a new bedknife allow me more reel life and more adjustment room? (Hoping it doesn't need a new reel!)


----------



## quadmasta

That bedknife is toast. The reel looks okay though although it could probably use a spin grind.


----------



## ZEM

quadmasta said:


> That bedknife is toast. The reel looks okay though although it could probably use a spin grind.


Thank you, I will get a new bedknife and go from there.


----------



## JRS 9572

@zem unless you can find one on Ebay etc, then here's the link to what you would need from McLane.

https://www.mclaneedgers.com/product/20bedknife-after-790/


----------



## ZEM

JRS 9572 said:


> @zem unless you can find one on Ebay etc, then here's the link to what you would need from McLane.
> 
> https://www.mclaneedgers.com/product/20bedknife-after-790/


Thank you sir!


----------



## a_chan

Would anyone with a 20" model provide actual dimensions including the handle? I'm planning to pick one up but don't have access to a truck. Mostly worried about full height as I assume any sort of tipping will cause engine flooding.

That is unless the handle comes off and reassembles easily then that will make my life easier.


----------



## Mister Bill

a_chan said:


> Would anyone with a 20" model provide actual dimensions including the handle? I'm planning to pick one up but don't have access to a truck. Mostly worried about full height as I assume any sort of tipping will cause engine flooding.
> 
> That is unless the handle comes off and reassembles easily then that will make my life easier.


38" to the top of the handle grips, 46" from front caster/roller to vertical plane of the handle bars, and 23" wide. Six bolts and a cotter key to remove handle.


----------



## a_chan

Mister Bill said:


> a_chan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Would anyone with a 20" model provide actual dimensions including the handle? I'm planning to pick one up but don't have access to a truck. Mostly worried about full height as I assume any sort of tipping will cause engine flooding.
> 
> That is unless the handle comes off and reassembles easily then that will make my life easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 38" to the top of the handle grips, 46" from front caster/roller to vertical plane of the handle bars, and 23" wide. Six bolts and a cotter key to remove handle.
Click to expand...

Great! Thanks for the response! I'm assuming it's about 20-24" from bottom to the topmost part of the engine?


----------



## Mister Bill

a_chan said:


> Mister Bill said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a_chan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Would anyone with a 20" model provide actual dimensions including the handle? I'm planning to pick one up but don't have access to a truck. Mostly worried about full height as I assume any sort of tipping will cause engine flooding.
> 
> That is unless the handle comes off and reassembles easily then that will make my life easier.
> 
> 
> 
> 38" to the top of the handle grips, 46" from front caster/roller to vertical plane of the handle bars, and 23" wide. Six bolts and a cotter key to remove handle.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Great! Thanks for the response! I'm assuming it's about 20-24" from bottom to the topmost part of the engine?
Click to expand...

It's 22 1/2" to the top of the air filter housing. That is the tallest section of the engine area. You are most welcome, and good luck with the mower.


----------



## Art James

I purchased my Mclane used and I noticed the the wheels leave marks on my lawn after cutting. I compared the wheels to other Mclanes and it seems like these are aftermarket wheels. They are not as wide and you can tell from the pics they don't sit flat to the ground. You can see the wear line on them. Looking for replacement wheels. But unsure if all of the Mclanes use the same rear wheels.


----------



## a_chan

Finally able to by a used Mclane, albeit a non starter when I picked it up. Reel and bedknife look okay and probably just need a backlap.

Managed to get the engine to crank and start with fresh gas but it dies when the choke gets turned off. I've already assumed that it's with the carb and am somewhat prepared to just replace it. Also waiting on parts to replace the spark plug, air filter, and oil.






Is there anything else I should try to get it running smoother?


----------



## quadmasta

That bedknife looks EOL

Is the tank on your engine plastic or metal? If it's metal, it's probably rusty. The carbs are simple and only have a single gasket. The rest is just blasting with carb cleaner to remove the varnish


----------



## a_chan

quadmasta said:


> That bedknife looks EOL
> 
> Is the tank on your engine plastic or metal? If it's metal, it's probably rusty. The carbs are simple and only have a single gasket. The rest is just blasting with carb cleaner to remove the varnish


Ouch okay. Well that's good to know. I assumed the tank rusted out a little after siphoning the old gas. Tough choice now is whether I should even attempt any of the carb work with the tank in that condition or just do a Predator engine swap. Also need to check how much a bed knife would be to replace...


----------



## quadmasta

Depending on how bad the tank is you may be able to blow it out and clean with vinegar and be fine. If it's big chunks, probably SOL


----------



## a_chan

Tank actually was in pretty bad shape after I cleaned it out and took a look inside. Pretty good amount of sediment came out with the gas.

Think I'll just look into the Predator swap and a new bed knife for longevity sake. No point trying to replace the gas tank either. Need to check all the other parts before diving in. Thanks for the help.


----------



## Bmossin

What is the best way to get the rear axle out so I can change the wheels on the back corners? I started digging into it on the bench last night, and it looks like it is going to be a lot more involved than I originally thought it would be.


----------



## gregfromohio

Just bought a McLane last night for $100. It does run and cut but I dont know anything about bed knife adjustment or anything. It's my first reel mower. I'm going to probably put a Predator motor on it and have my dad fab a front roller for it. What do you all think?


----------



## PhxHeat

These mowers are fairly basic and simple to get to run. I bought a non-running $40 unit off craigslist last fall. It appears to be comprised of a few mowers. The name came later, but it is now known as Ol'Junky and has become part of my lawn family.

Any way, a carb gasket/diaphragm kit, carb cleaner/cleaned passages and pick up tube, new rubber boots from cylinder to carb, tank wipe/clean out, fresh oil, and it started on the second pull with a splash of fuel to prime. I found a chunk of info searching google and even a handful of vids to point me in the right direction. Not difficult, basic tools, a lil patience and big smile when it starts and runs.

My 1990/91 Briggs and Stratton (3.5 hp) is a bit loud and a lil "quirky", but man it runs like a beast.

$40 for the mower, less than $30 in getting it to run. Figured it'd be a great "practice", trial, see if it makes a difference, low budget entry to see what's up, can it be that much different/better than my rotary mower experiment. And so far it's living up to the hype for me.


----------



## quadmasta

Bmossin said:


> What is the best way to get the rear axle out so I can change the wheels on the back corners? I started digging into it on the bench last night, and it looks like it is going to be a lot more involved than I originally thought it would be.


it really depends on how old your mower is. In both cases, you'll have to undo the chain from the jackshaft and the chain for the reel and remove the sprocket on the reel chain side of the axle.

If it's got bearings pressed into the housing that the axle is going through you'll have to remove at least one of the mower sides from the deck and you'll need snap ring pliers to remove the circlip on the end of the axle.

If you've got a newer mower then you'll have 4 bolts per side to undo that hold the bearing carriers to the side plates.

After that you'll have to remove the bolts that hold the axle hangers to the deck and it should be free at that point. While you're this far, check the setscrews on all of the sprockets on the axle.


----------



## Bmossin

quadmasta said:


> Bmossin said:
> 
> 
> 
> What is the best way to get the rear axle out so I can change the wheels on the back corners? I started digging into it on the bench last night, and it looks like it is going to be a lot more involved than I originally thought it would be.
> 
> 
> 
> it really depends on how old your mower is. In both cases, you'll have to undo the chain from the jackshaft and the chain for the reel and remove the sprocket on the reel chain side of the axle.
> 
> If it's got bearings pressed into the housing that the axle is going through you'll have to remove at least one of the mower sides from the deck and you'll need snap ring pliers to remove the circlip on the end of the axle.
> 
> If you've got a newer mower then you'll have 4 bolts per side to undo that hold the bearing carriers to the side plates.
> 
> After that you'll have to remove the bolts that hold the axle hangers to the deck and it should be free at that point. While you're this far, check the setscrews on all of the sprockets on the axle.
Click to expand...

Thanks for confirming what I was afraid of. It sounds like I am on the right track. I have the reel drive sprocket now covered in penetrating oil because of course that set screw is being a pain. I have the 4 bolts out on each side...and it looks like once I get the drive chain off, it will be 6 bolts that the axle hangs off of. I really appreciate it.


----------



## JRS 9572

@Art James those look to be after market. Depending on when your model was manufactured it could either have smooth or wheels with tread. I have one with smooth, and another with tread. I'll post some pics of what each looks like when I get home tonight. I wonder how the wheels you have stay in place now, because the McLane wheels have bearings that latch onto the axle.


----------



## JRS 9572

@a_chan I had one do the same thing with the metal gas tank. My father in law has helped me keep mowers running. As crazy as it sounds he found some small pebbles, and sand. He made sure it and the gas tank were dry. Threw the rocks and sand inside, and taped the openings of the gas tank shut. Then he went to shaking for 5 minutes or so. Doing that more or less sand blasted the inside of the tank. We rinsed it out, and I got another couple of years out of the engine. We also rebuilt the carb at the same time.

Again I know it sounds like literal shade tree mechanic stuff. But I'll be damned if it didn't fix the problem.


----------



## a_chan

JRS 9572 said:


> @a_chan I had one do the same thing with the metal gas tank. My father in law has helped me keep mowers running. As crazy as it sounds he found some small pebbles, and sand. He made sure it and the gas tank were dry. Threw the rocks and sand inside, and taped the openings of the gas tank shut. Then he went to shaking for 5 minutes or so. Doing that more or less sand blasted the inside of the tank. We rinsed it out, and I got another couple of years out of the engine. We also rebuilt the carb at the same time.
> 
> Again I know it sounds like literal shade tree mechanic stuff. But I'll be damned if it didn't fix the problem.


After some consideration, think I'll just go with a Predator swap at this point. I'd rather have the engine run long term without issues and focus on just reel maintenance. Thanks for the tip though.


----------



## Art James

@JRS 9572 Thanks for the feedback. As much as I would like to swap the wheels out I'm having a hard time justifying the cost of those wheels. I just don't like the way my wheels leave marks on the lawn after mowing.


----------



## quadmasta

Art James said:


> @JRS 9572 Thanks for the feedback. As much as I would like to swap the wheels out I'm having a hard time justifying the cost of those wheels. I just don't like the way my wheels leave marks on the lawn after mowing.


Check eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mclane-Reel-Mower-Original-OEM-Rear-Wheel-Complete-Part-1078-S-Made-in-U-S-A/163784865266?hash=item262256b5f2:g:XxUAAOSwkTVdM02b:sc:USPSPriority!30092!US!-1


----------



## Art James

I have seen these on eBay. Just not sure I want to spend $100 on new wheels rather than deal with the ruts my wheels leave. They are really proud of those wheels.


----------



## JRS 9572

a_chan said:


> JRS 9572 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @a_chan I had one do the same thing with the metal gas tank. My father in law has helped me keep mowers running. As crazy as it sounds he found some small pebbles, and sand. He made sure it and the gas tank were dry. Threw the rocks and sand inside, and taped the openings of the gas tank shut. Then he went to shaking for 5 minutes or so. Doing that more or less sand blasted the inside of the tank. We rinsed it out, and I got another couple of years out of the engine. We also rebuilt the carb at the same time.
> 
> Again I know it sounds like literal shade tree mechanic stuff. But I'll be damned if it didn't fix the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> After some consideration, think I'll just go with a Predator swap at this point. I'd rather have the engine run long term without issues and focus on just reel maintenance. Thanks for the tip though.
Click to expand...

My father in law just finished switching that mower over to a 5.5 HP predator. Only thing I need to find is a pipe to add to the muffler that directs exhaust away from my legs. My left leg gets warmed up after a time of cutting the lawn. Other than that it works well.


----------



## jstephens

I have the craftsman version of the Mcclane and am trying to find out if the clutch belt is actually 19" or 19.5"? I've seen a few posts of each and would like to see if anyone knew for certain which size will work?


----------



## quadmasta

This one works fine on mine
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074G4CJTL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Mister Bill

jstephens said:


> I have the craftsman version of the Mcclane and am trying to find out if the clutch belt is actually 19" or 19.5"? I've seen a few posts of each and would like to see if anyone knew for certain which size will work?


Mine uses a 19.5". I am not aware of McLane offering a OEM 19" for their mowers.


----------



## a_chan

JRS 9572 said:


> a_chan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JRS 9572 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @a_chan I had one do the same thing with the metal gas tank. My father in law has helped me keep mowers running. As crazy as it sounds he found some small pebbles, and sand. He made sure it and the gas tank were dry. Threw the rocks and sand inside, and taped the openings of the gas tank shut. Then he went to shaking for 5 minutes or so. Doing that more or less sand blasted the inside of the tank. We rinsed it out, and I got another couple of years out of the engine. We also rebuilt the carb at the same time.
> 
> Again I know it sounds like literal shade tree mechanic stuff. But I'll be damned if it didn't fix the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> After some consideration, think I'll just go with a Predator swap at this point. I'd rather have the engine run long term without issues and focus on just reel maintenance. Thanks for the tip though.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My father in law just finished switching that mower over to a 5.5 HP predator. Only thing I need to find is a pipe to add to the muffler that directs exhaust away from my legs. My left leg gets warmed up after a time of cutting the lawn. Other than that it works well.
Click to expand...

Yeah I ran into the swap post by @MarkV and it doesn't look too bad. Was on the fence about the 79cc one but apparently can't buy that here in Cali b/c of CARB. I'm hoping it's just the engine and bedknife that I need to replace as the reel still looks good (original paint on it + relief grind still intact).


----------



## Socalmisfit712

Hello guys, I'm new to reel mowers but looking to mow my lawn with them. I got this old Mclane from my pops and was wondering what I need to look out for on it. I've been doing a lot of reading and understand what and how to do certain things. Just don't know if the blade and bedknife are good or need sharpening or replacing. I have some pics hopefully you can see and let me know what u think. Was also gonna order a front roller for it, and whatever else might get it cutting like the pros. Any advice or help will be appreciated. Also wouldn't mind dropping some dough for a good used rig if there are any out there, just can't get the ol lady to open up the account to a swardman. I'm not looking to do any super low low cutting probably between an inch to inch and a half just something enjoyable to mow with. Oh and if anyone knows a reliable shop near me if I need sharpening, I'm in the hi desert in california, about 49 min north of chino, Ontario area. I appreciate it guys.


----------



## Socalmisfit712




----------



## Jester72

Do I jump on it? Used reel mowers don't show up on craigslist all that often out here in the PNW, but I found this post from 4 days ago- 20" McLane Greenskeeper, front roller and 10 blade. Also works great, runs good, missing chain cover. The seller is selling for his fiend. It belonged to his friends dad that recently passed. He says it's been sitting in the shop collecting dust a couple of years. He says that he has a guy showing up Friday, if it isn't sold before then, I can get there tomorrow..... the price? $650

I'm having trouble finding the cut height specs, anybody know?


----------



## drfous

Anyone still pushing an electric model. This one is close to 20 years old and still going strong.


----------



## Socalmisfit712

Just wondering what u guys think about a 10 blade or 7 blade 20". I understand the 10 cuts more often but is it worth it? Looking at both just want some feedback thanks.


----------



## Mister Bill

Socalmisfit712 said:


> Just wondering what u guys think about a 10 blade or 7 blade 20". I understand the 10 cuts more often but is it worth it? Looking at both just want some feedback thanks.


It depends on your desired height of cut, as the number of blades is related to height of cut. The lower the HOC, the more blades you want, fewer blades for higher HOC. 'Clip rate equals height of cut' I believe is the correct terminology if you want to search the math behind it.


----------



## LawnDaddy

JRS 9572 said:


> a_chan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JRS 9572 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @a_chan I had one do the same thing with the metal gas tank. My father in law has helped me keep mowers running. As crazy as it sounds he found some small pebbles, and sand. He made sure it and the gas tank were dry. Threw the rocks and sand inside, and taped the openings of the gas tank shut. Then he went to shaking for 5 minutes or so. Doing that more or less sand blasted the inside of the tank. We rinsed it out, and I got another couple of years out of the engine. We also rebuilt the carb at the same time.
> 
> Again I know it sounds like literal shade tree mechanic stuff. But I'll be damned if it didn't fix the problem.
> 
> 
> 
> After some consideration, think I'll just go with a Predator swap at this point. I'd rather have the engine run long term without issues and focus on just reel maintenance. Thanks for the tip though.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My father in law just finished switching that mower over to a 5.5 HP predator. Only thing I need to find is a pipe to add to the muffler that directs exhaust away from my legs. My left leg gets warmed up after a time of cutting the lawn. Other than that it works well.
Click to expand...

https://www.amazon.com/Muffler-Deflector-18331-ZE3-810-for-HONDA/dp/B001OKBFCC

This worked really good on my predator swap. My John deere 180c had the same one on its Honda gx160. From the factory i suppose


----------



## Francoix

What is the difference between a greens mower bedknife vs a regular bedknife? Does one cut lower than the other?


----------



## ZEM

I was attempting to cut my yard just now after all the rain from Tropical Storm Cristobal and of course my chain popped, can a local hardware store make one? Is there any specifics I need to relay to them? (chain to spin the reel)

And of course more rain is on the way.

**EDIT - It was the master link and I was able to find a new master link, but nobody has chain so I will be ordering a new one to have on hand.**


----------



## wesleyjw

Hi Everyone, just new to the Mclane reel mower world. I've had a manual push mower for quite some time, but decided to take the leap into this new world!

I bought a used 17" Mclane for $100. It's running an old GX100 Honda motor. I'm not really sure how old it is, but I ended up taking it apart, and clean the carb, and putting in some seafoam into the fuel tank; and it's running way better than it was.

My question... based on the photos, does anyone know how old this Mclane might be?

Secondly, there's something wrong with the reel engage lever. I know, beause it looks like a piece of the metal has snapped off. It's kind of scary, because when I turn on the mower, the reel is engaged, and already rotating. (is it supposed to do that, it seems really dangerous)

It also looks like something else is missing (some cover, or guard rail?), because I can see 2 threaded bolt holes, but nothing is in them.

I also took apart the bedknife, the guard rail and the chain guard (which were rusted), then I sanded it using a wire brush, and spray painted it with some rustoleum. Just wanted to include those photos too!

Any help/assistance would be great!

Thank you in advance


----------



## Two_Rivers

Nice work on the restoration so far. I don't know why that metal sticking out is but the reel should definitely not be engaged already.

Your clutch looks backwards from mine so I don't know if you have an older or newer model than mine. Do you know if the previous owner made an modifications?


----------



## gregfromohio

This this the correct belt routing for my mclane? I'm putting on a new motor and cant remember how it goes.


----------



## wesleyjw

Two_Rivers said:


> Nice work on the restoration so far. I don't know why that metal sticking out is but the reel should definitely not be engaged already.
> 
> Your clutch looks backwards from mine so I don't know if you have an older or newer model than mine. Do you know if the previous owner made an modifications?


From what I can tell the previous owner didn't modify it, other than the throttle.


----------



## quadmasta

gregfromohio said:


> This this the correct belt routing for my mclane? I'm putting on a new motor and cant remember how it goes.


The belt goes around everything. The "clutch" pulley pushes into it to engage the belt


----------



## AlexPiw

JimmyMika said:


> LawnDaddy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JimmyMika said:
> 
> 
> 
> First time post here.
> 
> Here are some photos from my Mclane 20" restoration project. Bought this beauty for $100 on offer-up, tore it completely apart, sanded off rust, replaced bearings, and gave a fresh paint job. Let me know if you have any questions!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been searching to see if anyone had tore one of these apart to restore. Ive got a John Deere SR7 20" that I got off facebook marketplace for $40 and runs great. Ive already backlapped and it cuts paper all the way across. Just curious if theres any issues you ran into while tearing apart, removing rust, painting, or putting it all back together. Any info help thanks. Looks Great BTW
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This project started out with an idea to just do a quick facelift with new paint. As I tore into it I found a few things that could be replaced fairly easily.
> 
> First of all, I went to a hardware store and bought a bag of 5/16-18 x 3/4" and 1.5" flange head bolts to replace all of the fasteners. Kudos to Mclane for using one size for most of the assembly.
> 
> The rear wheel bearings were shot and this was the old design the is pressed into the side plate. (I noticed McLane has since updated it with a separable mounting plate). Next I couldn't find the correct bearing, for some reason the same size sealed bearing has an extended inner race.
> 
> My measurements were:
> ID 5/8" , OD 1-3/8", Width 7/16", Flange OD 1.49", Flange thickness 0.06
> 
> I purchased two sealed PN: RF102214PP by NICE and had to do a little bit of grinding to get the final snap ring on the end of the shaft. The reel and v-belt jack-shaft bearings are higher quality sealed bearings and they felt good to leave original.
> 
> The Briggs and Stratton engine has a carb rebuild kit that I added to the old engine.
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038U3HLI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002EP9S0M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> This Video was a great help for working on the engine.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the steel I sanded the rust off and repainted with Rust Oleum high temp engine paint, it just seemed like it would be worthwhile to go with engine paint.
> 
> The chains would have also been easy to replace but I just oiled them and put them back on. I figure if they aren't broken they should work for a while longer.
> 
> I would say be prepared to drill through stripped fasteners. I had to drill the heads off of 3 bolts on the mower frame and 1 on the engine in order to remove parts. Fortunately the threads weren't damaged just stripped bolts.
Click to expand...

What color paint did you end up going with? I just stripped mine down and want to make sure I get the correct color "red" and "yellow."

Thanks!


----------



## LoveMyLawn

Does anyone know what the cross reference number is for the front sprocket. Part # 1091-A. Figure I can pick one up at Grainger for a fraction of the price.


----------



## a_chan

I'm trying to backlap my Mclane and am only getting clean paper cutting on a 1/4 section of the reel. Is there any concern of rifling the reel from using 80 grit compound? Also does anyone have any good tips for getting better contact?

On a side note, I fully understand now why everyone says the reel to bedknife adjustment on homeowner ranges are so finicky...


----------



## AZLAWNGUY

Does anyone have a parts diagram? I can't seem to figure out how to check the oil on mine. My oil caps don't have a dipstick on them.


----------



## Mister Bill

AZLAWNGUY said:


> Does anyone have a parts diagram? I can't seem to figure out how to check the oil on mine. My oil caps don't have a dipstick on them.


If it's the older Briggs, with the mower level, fill it to the top of the threads of the fill hole. Or one or two threads down to keep it tidy.


----------



## AZLAWNGUY

Ok cool. What kind of oil?


----------



## quadmasta

I use straight 10


----------



## MarkV

You guys and gals with 7 blade McLane's, what HOC are you at, and do you have a front roller?

Thanks.


----------



## quadmasta

I'm at 3/4" right now, I can go down to 1/2" but my lawn's not flat enough for that yet. I've got a front roller


----------



## JRS 9572

I've got the grooved roller from @Reelrollers. Cutting at a 1/2"


----------



## JRS 9572

@AZLAWNGUY I've got one of those vacuums to take the oil out, and I measure out 20 oz of oil and pour it in there after emptying. The manual says the oil fill should be 20 oz.


----------



## Mister Bill

JRS 9572 said:


> @AZLAWNGUY I've got one of those vacuums to take the oil out, and I measure out 20 oz of oil and pour it in there after emptying. The manual says the oil fill should be 20 oz.


I dump the oil out into a pan and refill until it is full. I have never read the manual. :dunno:


----------



## Two_Rivers

Cutting at .5 right now with a smooth roller.


----------



## MarkV

That's great news on the sub 1" with a 7 blade.

I've had a 10 blade McLane with a DIY roller for a few years now and I'm mowing at 5/8". The 10 blade might be 40 years old (based on the model number of the old B&S motor), if not it's pretty close to 40. I put a Predator motor on it a couple of years ago.

I just picked up a 7 blade for a song, actually less than a song. I put $32 into it and its running great. The 7 blade is 15 years old and it's been sitting for the last 10. Everything on the 7 blade is in way better condition than my 10 blade.

Since some are mowing sub 1" with a 7 blade; I'm thinking about moving my roller and Predator motor to the 7 blade and selling the 10 blade with wheels and the B&S 3.5 HP motor.

Does that sound crazy?


----------



## PhxHeat

I call my mower Ol'Junky. It's great.
Craigslist buy.
•20" 7 blade reel
•front wheels are worn, wobble and have play
• some of the wheel/adjustment related hardware is sloppy
•rear roller wheels are worn through in areas
•drive wheels are in decent shape

I have a variety blend of common bermuda on it's 1st summer of being reel cut and it has been filling in very nicely so far.

I measure cut height with steel flat stock and it fits snug under the front edge of the bed. So I guesstimate the extra 16th. I can set the bed on the ground and still have unused notches lol haha Ol'Junky.

I've cut as low as 5/16".
Currently at 9/16" and it cuts great.
Next notch up for Ol'Junky is 13/16", no issues.

Playing with it on my "winter" rye, I started around 1-1/2" to get a feel for Ol'Junky. It cuts fine higher up, but imo for my yard in progress does a way better job at an inch or lower.


----------



## JRS 9572

Mister Bill said:


> JRS 9572 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @AZLAWNGUY I've got one of those vacuums to take the oil out, and I measure out 20 oz of oil and pour it in there after emptying. The manual says the oil fill should be 20 oz.
> 
> 
> 
> I dump the oil out into a pan and refill until it is full. I have never read the manual. :dunno:
Click to expand...

When I screw the mower up my father in law has to come in and help. I try to make sure I don't make any dumb mistakes like not changing the oil, air filter, spark plug, and so on.

The pump I got makes it a snap instead of dumping in the pan, and getting oil on the mower. There's more than one way to skin the cat of course. Neither of us is wrong I guess. :thumbup:


----------



## JRS 9572

Here I've got one. So one of the McLane's we just rebuilt, and put the predator engine on....

My son is cutting part of the yard with it last night. All of a sudden. Even though he lets off the handles the reel and drive stay engaged. I just told him to put it up, and I finished the rest of the yard with the other McLane.

Any ideas on what could be going on? Or where I should look 1st?


----------



## quadmasta

JRS 9572 said:


> Here I've got one. So one of the McLane's we just rebuilt, and put the predator engine on....
> 
> My son is cutting part of the yard with it last night. All of a sudden. Even though he lets off the handles the reel and drive stay engaged. I just told him to put it up, and I finished the rest of the yard with the other McLane.
> 
> Any ideas on what could be going on? Or where I should look 1st?


Sounds like your belt isn't loose enough without the "clutch" engaged. Check to make sure your deadman is retracting as far back as possible when the handle isn't depressed.


----------



## PhxHeat

@JRS 9572

Is it possible that the belt has "wedged" into the V of the pulley and continues to have enough "bite" to continue "driving" the mower even w/o the tensioner engaged?

Is the tensioner rod to the handle adjusted properly to allow the belt to have slack when not engaged?

I'd think it has something to do with the "drive" belt not releasing.


----------



## PhxHeat

ha, quadmasta beat me to it .... man I guess I type "reel" slowww


----------



## JRS 9572

I'll check into it! Thanks for some ideas of where to look.


----------



## Mister Bill

JRS 9572 said:


> Mister Bill said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JRS 9572 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @AZLAWNGUY I've got one of those vacuums to take the oil out, and I measure out 20 oz of oil and pour it in there after emptying. The manual says the oil fill should be 20 oz.
> 
> 
> 
> I dump the oil out into a pan and refill until it is full. I have never read the manual. :dunno:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> When I screw the mower up my father in law has to come in and help. I try to make sure I don't make any dumb mistakes like not changing the oil, air filter, spark plug, and so on.
> 
> The pump I got makes it a snap instead of dumping in the pan, and getting oil on the mower. There's more than one way to skin the cat of course. Neither of us is wrong I guess. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Never mind me, just lightening the mood in sad times. I am reminded of Thomas Edison's Light Bulb Test;

Thomas Edison, the inventor of the incandescent bulb, was an incessant inventor. When he needed to expand his staff, he employed an unusual technique for interviewing the engineers for positions on his staff. Every prospective applicant who came in for an interview was handed a light bulb. Edison then asked the engineer to determine the exact amount of water the bulb could hold.

Edison knew very well that there were two basic ways an applicant could determine the correct answer to his question.

The first, was to apply several engineering gauges and mathematical protractors to each of the complex angles of the glass bulb. Then, using a slide ruler and applying basic logarithmic formulas, the applicant could calculate the inside surface area of the light bulb which would allow him to determine the total volume of the glass bulb. This approach would take an experienced engineering applicant approximately twenty minutes to solve the answer.

The second method an applicant could use to find the answer was to remove the brass base from the bulb and then fill the bulb with water. Once the bulb was filled with water, its contents could easily be poured into a measuring cup or laboratory beaker mug to determine the exact amount of water it could hold. This method generally took less than two minutes.

Nearly all the engineers who used the first method to calculate the volume of water a light bulb could hold were politely thanked for their time and sent on their way. However, the applicants who used the second method were greeted warmly by Mr. Edison who asked, "When can you start?" :lol: :lol: :lol:


----------



## quadmasta

or alternately you could push the lightbulb into a full beaker with a spout and whatever the bulb displaced you could catch and measure


----------



## sm120mph

I received my 25" MCLANE reel mower with the front roller, I moved the front roller bar to the top hole and moved the height adjustment lever to the second hole down and set the lever to notch no.1 the bed knife is at 1" how do I set the mower so that the bed knife is at .75"


----------



## sm120mph

Sorry my post at the end should have said Thanks for your help.


----------



## Mister Bill

quadmasta said:


> or alternately you could push the lightbulb into a full beaker with a spout and whatever the bulb displaced you could catch and measure


 :lol: I'm sure you would have made the cut as well. Good thinking, sir. :thumbup:

The point is, it is not necessary to overcomplicate things and still end up with a satisfactory result. :smile:


----------



## quadmasta

sm120mph said:


> I received my 25" MCLANE reel mower with the front roller, I moved the front roller bar to the top hole and moved the height adjustment lever to the second hole down and set the lever to notch no.1 the bed knife is at 1" how do I set the mower so that the bed knife is at .75"


How are you measuring your height of cut? I've got a solid ReelRoller roller and the pin that goes through the spreader is on the middle setting and on the first notch on the adjuster it's at about 1". It goes down by about a quarter inch for every setting.
You should measure HOC by using a straightedge from the roller (the wider part) to one of the rear wheels and then measure from the top of the straight edge to the edge of the bedknife.


----------



## SGrabs33

sm120mph said:


> I received my 25" MCLANE reel mower with the front roller, I moved the front roller bar to the top hole and moved the height adjustment lever to the second hole down and set the lever to notch no.1 the bed knife is at 1" how do I set the mower so that the bed knife is at .75"


I had a customer bring me their new McLane a few weeks back. The model that they were sent from the manufacturer could only go down to about 3/4" to 1" without moving the rear axle. Hope that isn't the case with yours. The rollers that they send are bulky and too thick to get very low. You may need to buy a roller from @Reelrollers to achieve your desired height of cut.


----------



## sm120mph

quadmasta said:


> sm120mph said:
> 
> 
> 
> I received my 25" MCLANE reel mower with the front roller, I moved the front roller bar to the top hole and moved the height adjustment lever to the second hole down and set the lever to notch no.1 the bed knife is at 1" how do I set the mower so that the bed knife is at .75"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How are you measuring your height of cut? I've got a solid ReelRoller roller and the pin that goes through the spreader is on the middle setting and on the first notch on the adjuster it's at about 1". It goes down by about a quarter inch for every setting.
> You should measure HOC by using a straightedge from the roller (the wider part) to one of the rear wheels and then measure from the top of the straight edge to the edge of the bedknife.
Click to expand...

 Thank you for your reply I am measuring with a straightedge from the roller (the wider part) to one of the rear wheels and I get 1" I may have to get a new front roller the thing that gets me is that the book and paperwork said to set it up this way and the hoc will be .75"?


----------



## quadmasta

If this is a newer mower you may have to move your rear axle up. Also, if you put your adjuster in the top hole instead of the bottom hole it'll force the roller out forward more and lower the HOC.


----------



## sm120mph

SGrabs33 said:


> sm120mph said:
> 
> 
> 
> I received my 25" MCLANE reel mower with the front roller, I moved the front roller bar to the top hole and moved the height adjustment lever to the second hole down and set the lever to notch no.1 the bed knife is at 1" how do I set the mower so that the bed knife is at .75"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a customer bring me their new McLane a few weeks back. The model that they were sent from the manufacturer could only go down to about 3/4" to 1" without moving the rear axle. Hope that isn't the case with yours. The rollers that they send are bulky and too thick to get very low. You may need to buy a roller from @Reelrollers to achieve your desired height of cut.
Click to expand...

 Thank you for your reply I think I may have to get a new front roller the book and paper work said to set it up the way I have it and your hoc will be .75"? is there any play in the rear wheels to lower them I don't mean the part where you have to take the mower apart it looks like there is a slot that maybe it can move up or down some?The bolts on the left?


----------



## w0lfe

Anyone know if it's a straight forward swap to change a 7 blade reel to a 10 blade on a 20inch?


----------



## quadmasta

w0lfe said:


> Anyone know if it's a straight forward swap to change a 7 blade reel to a 10 blade on a 20inch?


pull the chain cover, the sprocket and it's 6 bolts and the whole thing will slide out. If you can't wedge it out you'll have to pull one side of the mower off


----------



## quadmasta

sm120mph said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sm120mph said:
> 
> 
> 
> I received my 25" MCLANE reel mower with the front roller, I moved the front roller bar to the top hole and moved the height adjustment lever to the second hole down and set the lever to notch no.1 the bed knife is at 1" how do I set the mower so that the bed knife is at .75"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had a customer bring me their new McLane a few weeks back. The model that they were sent from the manufacturer could only go down to about 3/4" to 1" without moving the rear axle. Hope that isn't the case with yours. The rollers that they send are bulky and too thick to get very low. You may need to buy a roller from @Reelrollers to achieve your desired height of cut.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you for your reply I think I may have to get a new front roller the book and paper work said to set it up the way I have it and your hoc will be .75"? is there any play in the rear wheels to lower them I don't mean the part where you have to take the mower apart it looks like there is a slot that maybe it can move up or down some?The bolts on the left?
Click to expand...

Read through the McLane's manual and it'll have the steps on how to move the rear axle. It requires removing bolts and loosening the axle bearing holders. You also should change the top bolt on the adjusment arm on the roller as I mentioned before.


----------



## sm120mph

quadmasta said:


> sm120mph said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had a customer bring me their new McLane a few weeks back. The model that they were sent from the manufacturer could only go down to about 3/4" to 1" without moving the rear axle. Hope that isn't the case with yours. The rollers that they send are bulky and too thick to get very low. You may need to buy a roller from @Reelrollers to achieve your desired height of cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for your reply I think I may have to get a new front roller the book and paper work said to set it up the way I have it and your hoc will be .75"? is there any play in the rear wheels to lower them I don't mean the part where you have to take the mower apart it looks like there is a slot that maybe it can move up or down some?The bolts on the left?
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Read through the McLane's manual and it'll have the steps on how to move the rear axle. It requires removing bolts and loosening the axle bearing holders. You also should change the top bolt on the adjusment arm on the roller as I mentioned before.
Click to expand...

Thanks for helping me out on this,as far as moving the rear axle I am go to hold off on that for now,for the adjusment arm I tried to move the arm to the top hole but the bottom bolt has to line up with a bolt hole and it seems it does not want to line up.did you do this on your customers mower.


----------



## quadmasta

No, not that bolt. The hole at the top of the arm. Move the bolt that holds the adjustment "finger thing" up to the top hole


----------



## sm120mph

quadmasta said:


> No, not that bolt. The hole at the top of the arm. Move the bolt that holds the adjustment "finger thing" up to the top hole


Thanks I will try that and get back to you thanks again.


----------



## LoveMyLawn

Made a back lapping attachment. Found a small sprocket at the office. Doesn't have to be a sprocket but it does have a shoulder already on it and a set screw hole. Drilled it out to 11/16 and it fits good. Welded a drill attachment to it. Now I'm going to drill/tap the set screw out a littler larger and I should be ready to rock.


----------



## sm120mph

quadmasta said:


> No, not that bolt. The hole at the top of the arm. Move the bolt that holds the adjustment "finger thing" up to the top hole


I tried the top hole it did not work I think my best bet is to get a new front roller that is smaller then the one that came with the mower,but I am game to try anything to get the bed knife at .75"


----------



## quadmasta

sm120mph said:


> quadmasta said:
> 
> 
> 
> No, not that bolt. The hole at the top of the arm. Move the bolt that holds the adjustment "finger thing" up to the top hole
> 
> 
> 
> I tried the top hole it did not work I think my best bet is to get a new front roller that is smaller then the one that came with the mower,but I am game to try anything to get the bed knife at .75"
Click to expand...

Take a picture of that roller from a different angle. Same 3/4 view but from the front angle. It looks like that one's designed differently than the ReelRollers one.


----------



## sm120mph

quadmasta said:


> sm120mph said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quadmasta said:
> 
> 
> 
> No, not that bolt. The hole at the top of the arm. Move the bolt that holds the adjustment "finger thing" up to the top hole
> 
> 
> 
> I tried the top hole it did not work I think my best bet is to get a new front roller that is smaller then the one that came with the mower,but I am game to try anything to get the bed knife at .75"
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Take a picture of that roller from a different angle. Same 3/4 view but from the front angle. It looks like that one's designed differently than the ReelRollers one.
Click to expand...

Here is the picture as you can see when I put that finger thing in the top hole the peg won't go into the first notch the finger hits the chain guard.


----------



## quadmasta

That's goofy.

https://www.mclaneedgers.com/product/greens-keepers-25/

That roller's meant to be used with a completely different adjustment system according to McLane's site. My 20" model has the bolt through the spreader bar in the middle hole and the notch all the way back by the little nubbin on the adjuster is 1" and each notch forward is roughly a quarter inch after that.


----------



## SGrabs33

sm120mph said:


> quadmasta said:
> 
> 
> 
> No, not that bolt. The hole at the top of the arm. Move the bolt that holds the adjustment "finger thing" up to the top hole
> 
> 
> 
> I tried the top hole it did not work I think my best bet is to get a new front roller that is smaller then the one that came with the mower,but I am game to try anything to get the bed knife at .75"
Click to expand...

My customer confirmed that he can now adjust from about 1/2" to 2.5" now with the new roller from @Reelrollers :thumbup:


----------



## sm120mph

I am going to order a new roller from reelrollers I will let you know how it goes and thanks for your help.


----------



## sm120mph

SGrabs33 said:


> sm120mph said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quadmasta said:
> 
> 
> 
> No, not that bolt. The hole at the top of the arm. Move the bolt that holds the adjustment "finger thing" up to the top hole
> 
> 
> 
> I tried the top hole it did not work I think my best bet is to get a new front roller that is smaller then the one that came with the mower,but I am game to try anything to get the bed knife at .75"
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My customer confirmed that he can now adjust from about 1/2" to 2.5" now with the new roller from @Reelrollers :thumbup:
Click to expand...

It worked I received my new roller from reelrollers and I now have a hoc at .75" and up, Thank you for your help.I am still pissed off that the web site I went to https://store.coronamaxtools.com/25mcgrremo.html says that this mower will cut as low as .75" and the paper work that came with the mower says it will cut as low as .75" but it will not!!! it will cut your lawn at 1" all day long.The manger or the owner not sure I talk to will never say that the mower will cut at .75" he told me all kinds of bull like what time of day I cut the grass,what kind of grass I cut,told me how no one uses the hoc dial indicator anymore,how many mowers they are selling,but will never say if the mower will cut the grass at .75".
Thank you again for your help with my mower.
Scott M.


----------



## cavince79

I picked up a used McLane 7 blade last year and it sat until I started making progress on the lawn. I've replaced my front yard with Zeon, and am spoon feeding TifTuf in the back, so the McLane is getting more love now.
Is there an dummies guide to back lapping and sharpening and all that jazz? I'd debated taking it to a pro, but assume this is a skill I should learn myself for long term.


----------



## AlexPiw

cavince79 said:


> I picked up a used McLane 7 blade last year and it sat until I started making progress on the lawn. I've replaced my front yard with Zeon, and am spoon feeding TifTuf in the back, so the McLane is getting more love now.
> Is there an dummies guide to back lapping and sharpening and all that jazz? I'd debated taking it to a pro, but assume this is a skill I should learn myself for long term.







This helped me out!


----------



## gorgedude

I just picked up a very used Mclane 7-blade that I plan on restoring a bit. The engine code tells me it's '95 but the mower serial number looks partially torn off. 303313 is all I can see for the serial number. Can I assume the mower is a '95?


----------



## SGrabs33

Glad to hear it @sm120mph! I think the manual they send is for their mowers with casters and not rollers. Glad you got it fixed!


----------



## El Toro

Hey guys,
I purchased this gem about a week ago. I pulled the gas tank and carb off, cleaned the gas tank out and put the carb back together. Does anyone have experience with this carb ? I have looked online and found info on it, but it just doesn't look like it is assembled properly, but it seems to run ok. Second question is on the reel and bedknife. I am trying to back lap the reel, but a section of the bedknife is somewhat gouged up and I'm not sure if I should adjust the pivot points and attempt to backlap again, to try and get a consistent cut all the way across the reel/bedknife or if I should just have it ground. The reel appears to to have a lot of life left, but I have zero experience with the McLane. I just don't want to turn the reel in to a cone shape, but I don't want to put a fortune in it either. The bearings or whatever they are, are shot in both levers, is everyone just ordering those from McLane ? I like the old thing. If I can get out cheap on the real and bedknife, I plan on media blasting the entire mower and Bring it back to its glory years. Here are photos


----------



## Reelsharpcarolina21

Oldie but a goodie! I've worked on these a few times. MCLANE parts will work on it. I am a professional grinder but as far as the gouges in the bedknife you can work them flat with a file, work the top edge and the front edge.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

Anyone have an idea on how to add a knob to the clutch handle? I swapped out the existing grip for a spare bike grip I had laying around but it sometimes slides off as I disengage the clutch.


----------



## El Toro

Wrap the handle with a couple wraps of tape


----------



## quadmasta

Old BMX trick: remove the grip and spray the handle and the inside of the grip with hair spray, the crappier the better. When it starts getting a little tacky, jam it on


----------



## bhutchinson87

You could use golf grip tape.


----------



## Jbird95

Yard nut here that has been researching the heck outta reels lately. When I bought my Gravely zero turn information, distributors, brochures and demos were easily found. On the contrary I feel like I have to beg a dealer to take my $ for a reel. McLane sells direct now, so no one has stock to look at. I live in a small community of 5 million or so and there is only one Tru-Cut dealer. Does anyone else feel my pain?


----------



## ASola26

@sm120mph - I recently purchased a McLane 20in grooved roller from the factory and noticed the rear drive wheels didn't have as much tread on them as brand new tires on the McLane parts website. Could you possibly snap a photo of what yours look like, since it's new?

I e-mailed Mclane's customer service to see what they could do for me. Everything else on the mower looked brand new.


----------



## pschattle15

So I have a 20" McLane reel that I have restored to the a pictures below. Had the reel get sharpened and had the first mow on the lawn last night. Appeared to work well, however, it looked like the belt was throwing black material when I would engage the reel. It is a new belt as of a week ago and I followed the adjustment procedure in the McLane manual online for clutch adjustment. The motor on this mower i pulled off an edger and replaced the original due to it sitting outside unprotected for 10 years. The reel and mower were running fine it seemed during the mow. I just dont want to be replacing a belt every other month on this mower. Any thoughts on what could be causing this? I can add some more detailed photos of the pulleys, belts and clutch bar when I get home tonight. TIA


----------



## quadmasta

Looks like the pulley isn't perpendicular to the output shaft


----------



## pschattle15

@quadmasta I was thinking that maybe when I mounted the engine and pulley on the shaft it wasnt aligned correctly. The pulley on these should be a 2 1/2" diameter pulley right? Thinking I may just bite the bullet and buy a new Briggs 550 series motor, and get a new pulley to try and correct the issue.


----------



## quadmasta

I can't tell if it's the pulley or not with the pictures you posted. Use a straightedge from the pulley on the jackshaft to the pulley on the motor and make sure it's good top and bottom


----------



## El Toro

Here is your issue, you need to make sure you get that aligned properly, otherwise it will continue to shred belts.


----------



## pschattle15

So i am going to put a new Briggs on my McLane. Is there any reason I should buy a 950 series (208cc) versus the standard 550 series (127cc)? Price difference is about $40. Mounting pattern looks the same. I know the 550 is what comes standard on the McLanes. Thoughts?


----------



## Spammage

pschattle15 said:


> So i am going to put a new Briggs on my McLane. Is there any reason I should buy a 950 series (208cc) versus the standard 550 series (127cc)? Price difference is about $40. Mounting pattern looks the same. I know the 550 is what comes standard on the McLanes. Thoughts?


I would save a little dough and go with the 212cc Predator from Harbor Freight if you have access to one.


----------



## pschattle15

Has anyone had issues finding replacement carbs or any other parts for the Predator motors? That is one thing I have been thinking about that has me still on the fence about doing the predator swap.


----------



## rainman353

I just bought what appears to be a late 80s early 90s Mclane 20 inch. I've seen videos where people talk about how easy a Mclane is to push when the drive wheel is up. The mower I have isn't impossible to push but definitely takes more than a finger. It does have a front roller so I don't know if that has anything to do with it. It cuts fine(maybe needs a backlap and some fine tuning) and the drive wheel works fine. Any ideas or should I just not worry about it. I'm new to the whole reel thing so not sure if I should tinker with it or leave it as is. Thanks for the help.


----------



## a_chan

pschattle15 said:


> Has anyone had issues finding replacement carbs or any other parts for the Predator motors? That is one thing I have been thinking about that has me still on the fence about doing the predator swap.


I want to assume that most of the parts are interchangeable with the equivalent Honda GX200. Even then a replacement carb isn't that expensive (assuming you go non-OEM). All the carb issues can be avoided entirely by not letting the gas sit in the first place though...


----------



## SGrabs33

rainman353 said:


> I just bought what appears to be a late 80s early 90s Mclane 20 inch. I've seen videos where people talk about how easy a Mclane is to push when the drive wheel is up. The mower I have isn't impossible to push but definitely takes more than a finger. It does have a front roller so I don't know if that has anything to do with it. It cuts fine(maybe needs a backlap and some fine tuning) and the drive wheel works fine. Any ideas or should I just not worry about it. I'm new to the whole reel thing so not sure if I should tinker with it or leave it as is. Thanks for the help.


Lay the mower on its back and spin the roller. Possible the bearings are gone in it? Is the drive wheel dragging on the grass when in the up position?


----------



## rainman353

SGrabs33 said:


> Lay the mower on its back and spin the roller. Possible the bearings are gone in it? Is the drive wheel dragging on the grass when in the up position?


I did that. It definitely is the roller causing the issue. It does spin but not without some effort. Is it supposed to spin freely like a skateboard wheel? Can the bearing be replaced? It looks to be a reelroller model. I'm local to them so I wonder if they would look at it or just say I need to purchase a new one. Thanks for the help.

Edit-

Found the replacement bearings on their website. I'll give them a call tomorrow.


----------



## SGrabs33

rainman353 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Lay the mower on its back and spin the roller. Possible the bearings are gone in it? Is the drive wheel dragging on the grass when in the up position?
> 
> 
> 
> I did that. It definitely is the roller causing the issue. It does spin but not without some effort. Is it supposed to spin freely like a skateboard wheel? Can the bearing be replaced? It looks to be a reelroller model. I'm local to them so I wonder if they would look at it or just say I need to purchase a new one. Thanks for the help.
> 
> Edit-
> 
> Found the replacement bearings on their website. I'll give them a call tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Great. Yep, there's should be replaceable.


----------



## Percheron

Hi all,

Yesterday I was bought an unknown era Mclane, and I'm pretty happy. It was a CL find with what appears to be low hours as there's only surface rust on non painted parts and the paint itself is still glossy. It starts first or second pull and seems to do what it's supposed to.

I adjusted the reel to cut a folder sheet paper, it needs back lapping though.

Questions:

What era is it? The Briggs website couldn't find the engines serial number. I called Mclane and they thought maybe early 90's

Does anyone have a preference for the Mclane back lap kit over the type offered by Reel Rollers? I'd think the Reel Roller one would be easier?

I think I might replace the engine because it's pretty loud and has a little gas tank. I went through a tank of fuel last night before completing my lawn. Suggestions?

Thanks!!

-Derek


----------



## quadmasta

Percheron said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Yesterday I was bought an unknown era Mclane, and I'm pretty happy. It was a CL find with what appears to be low hours as there's only surface rust on non painted parts and the paint itself is still glossy. It starts first or second pull and seems to do what it's supposed to.
> 
> I adjusted the reel to cut a folder sheet paper, it needs back lapping though.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> What era is it? The Briggs website couldn't find the engines serial number. I called Mclane and they thought maybe early 90's
> 
> Does anyone have a preference for the Mclane back lap kit over the type offered by Reel Rollers? I'd think the Reel Roller one would be easier?
> 
> I think I might replace the engine because it's pretty loud and has a little gas tank. I went through a tank of fuel last night before completing my lawn. Suggestions?
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
> -Derek


Don't get the McLane backlapping kit. It's garbage. As far as what age your mower is, take a picture of the left side of the mower and if you can get one, where the grass deflector meets the top of the bedknife behind the reel.


----------



## Percheron

> Don't get the McLane backlapping kit. It's garbage. As far as what age your mower is, take a picture of the left side of the mower and if you can get one, where the grass deflector meets the top of the bedknife behind the reel.


Ok cool! I'll try to get a photo tomorrow. It doesn't really matter what year it is, I'd just like know. I'm excited to get this thing dialed in.

-Derek


----------



## quadmasta

Percheron said:


> Don't get the McLane backlapping kit. It's garbage. As far as what age your mower is, take a picture of the left side of the mower and if you can get one, where the grass deflector meets the top of the bedknife behind the reel.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok cool! I'll try to get a photo tomorrow. It doesn't really matter what year it is, I'd just like know. I'm excited to get this thing dialed in.
> 
> -Derek
Click to expand...

For some stuff it *does* actually matter what year it is. I think I can see a bolt near the rear axle in one of your pictures. If there are bolts there and there's not a bearing pressed into the side of the mower, it's post-88. If where your grass deflector meets the top of your bedknife it's got "fingers" that alternate between going behind and in front of the bedknife, it's a pre-91. If it's solid all the way across, it's post-91.


----------



## Percheron

> For some stuff it does actually matter what year it is. I think I can see a bolt near the rear axle in one of your pictures. If there are bolts there and there's not a bearing pressed into the side of the mower, it's post-88. If where your grass deflector meets the top of your bedknife it's got "fingers" that alternate between going behind and in front of the bedknife, it's a pre-91. If it's solid all the way across, it's post-91.


Ok! There are axle bolts and it looks solid across the bed knife.

I can't wait to get it back lapped! I have a new air filter coming in today. It looked like the original was still in as the foam edges just crumbled in my hands. I'm thinking I will put a new engine on this winter since they are so cheap. The stock one seems to work but it's pretty loud, certainly louder than my Toro Recycler

-Derek


----------



## quadmasta

Did you get it running? The carbs are pretty simple. You should probably just replace the muffler too. They're cheap AF and are a "wear" item.


----------



## Percheron

quadmasta said:


> Did you get it running? The carbs are pretty simple. You should probably just replace the muffler too. They're cheap AF and are a "wear" item.


So far, it's started second or third pull, I tried to find the model on B&S's web site, but it's "not found" old.

-Derek


----------



## JRS 9572

Percheron said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Yesterday I was bought an unknown era Mclane, and I'm pretty happy. It was a CL find with what appears to be low hours as there's only surface rust on non painted parts and the paint itself is still glossy. It starts first or second pull and seems to do what it's supposed to.
> 
> I adjusted the reel to cut a folder sheet paper, it needs back lapping though.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> What era is it? The Briggs website couldn't find the engines serial number. I called Mclane and they thought maybe early 90's
> 
> Does anyone have a preference for the Mclane back lap kit over the type offered by Reel Rollers? I'd think the Reel Roller one would be easier?
> 
> I think I might replace the engine because it's pretty loud and has a little gas tank. I went through a tank of fuel last night before completing my lawn. Suggestions?
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
> -Derek


That model engine etc looks exactly like the 1st one I bought in 1997. Nor sure of the model number. It's been replaced with a predator and I do not have it any longer.

2nd on the backlapping kit from McLane. I'm one of the suckers that bought one. Go to www.reelrollers.com and buy their back lapping kit. It's so much more user friendly. You take the chain off the sprocket and you're in business.


----------



## El Toro

I made this out of a 1/2 floor plate and some bolts laying around, works great and was dirt cheap.


----------



## abrinkoeter

Anyone run into an issue with the clutch drive chain getting misaligned to the sprocket and freezing everything. Due to the tension of the chain, I can't get it back on. I hate to attempt to force it and break something.


----------



## quadmasta

abrinkoeter said:


> Anyone run into an issue with the clutch drive chain getting misaligned to the sprocket and freezing everything. Due to the tension of the chain, I can't get it back on. I hate to attempt to force it and break something.


That chain's too long. Is it old?


----------



## abrinkoeter

Brand new. Found a servicer locally that can work on it. He's got it fixed up and it's ready to go.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

Any advice or links for changing out the Rear (non-drive) wheels? I don't think I can call AAA for this blowout :bd:


----------



## SoCalBermuda

Found this on Craigslist for $200, seller said to offer whatever because they wanted to get rid of it. What do you guys think?


----------



## quadmasta

SoCalBermuda said:


> Found this on Craigslist for $200, seller said to offer whatever because they wanted to get rid of it. What do you guys think?


There's a lot of life left in that reel and bedknife. If it runs, offer them $120 and see if they'll eventually settle for ~$150. If it doesn't run, depending on why you might be in it another $100 so do with that what you want.


----------



## quadmasta

SoCalBermuda said:


> Any advice or links for changing out the Rear (non-drive) wheels? I don't think I can call AAA for this blowout :bd:


Go back a few pages, someone asked about how to change their wheels and I gave the process then


----------



## gorgedude

SoCalBermuda said:


> Any advice or links for changing out the Rear (non-drive) wheels? I don't think I can call AAA for this blowout :bd:
> 
> I just purchased a 20" for $100 and had to replace the right rear wheel immediately. The rear axle and drive wheels need to be completely disassembled and the a sprocket needs to be removed. Mine had a rusted set screw but I eventually got it off.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

quadmasta said:


> SoCalBermuda said:
> 
> 
> 
> Found this on Craigslist for $200, seller said to offer whatever because they wanted to get rid of it. What do you guys think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There's a lot of life left in that reel and bedknife. If it runs, offer them $120 and see if they'll eventually settle for ~$150. If it doesn't run, depending on why you might be in it another $100 so do with that what you want.
Click to expand...

Got it for $100. Took it home, fiddled with it, sprayed some WD-40 here and there, inspected the air filter (good condition), spark plug (good condition), cleaned out what very little gas was remaining, poured in some new gas and it (eventually) fired up.
If I have time today I'm going to give it a backlap, swap my grooved reel roller on it and see if I can pick up where I left off yesterday, cutting my back yard


----------



## kichigai

How do you do tell the life remaining on a McLane reel? I want to change out my 7 blade for a used 10 blade ? Thank you


----------



## arm0211

Any thoughts? I recently purchased a used McLane 20 in 10 blade with a 3hp BS engine and it starts and idles all day, but once it starts to get into the thick areas it dies every time unless i disengage the clutch when it starts to sputter.

I've already replaced the drive belt and the reel spins by hand ok.. not effortless but it doesn't get stuck by any means.

I'm planning on ************ this week once the materials get in.


----------



## weekendernutjob

I have the John Deer version of the McLane 20. It came with a front roller from ReelRollers.com when I got, but didnt come with an original grass catcher. I want to get the grass catcher attachment but it seems like it would not fit with the roller since the grass catcher is fitted for the two front wheels that originally came on the mower and the roller seems like it would rub on the grass catcher plastic. Does anyone know how and if it fits or what I need to do to have the roller, and the catcher on at the same time.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

weekendernutjob said:


> I have the John Deer version of the McLane 20. It came with a front roller from ReelRollers.com when I got, but didnt come with an original grass catcher. I want to get the grass catcher attachment but it seems like it would not fit with the roller since the grass catcher is fitted for the two front wheels that originally came on the mower and the roller seems like it would rub on the grass catcher plastic. Does anyone know how and if it fits or what I need to do to have the roller, and the catcher on at the same time.


I have problems with my grass catcher hopping around and even falling off of my mower because of the reel roller. This only happens on lower height of cut settings though. I've recently tried to add a bungee cord to keep the grass catcher in place and it sort of works. My best idea is to just mow more frequently without the attachment so that there's not a heavy amount of clippings. If anyone has any other options I'm interested to hear.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

arm0211 said:


> Any thoughts? I recently purchased a used McLane 20 in 10 blade with a 3hp BS engine and it starts and idles all day, but once it starts to get into the thick areas it dies every time unless i disengage the clutch when it starts to sputter.
> 
> I've already replaced the drive belt and the reel spins by hand ok.. not effortless but it doesn't get stuck by any means.
> 
> I'm planning on backlapping this week once the materials get in.


Are these thick areas or tall grass areas or something of the both? Depending on the grass type, the grass height, the height of cut your mower is set at, and the sharpness (or dullness) of your blades you could hit a combo that would cause your mower to stall out. Backlapping should be helpful in most situations though.


----------



## arm0211

SoCalBermuda said:


> arm0211 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any thoughts? I recently purchased a used McLane 20 in 10 blade with a 3hp BS engine and it starts and idles all day, but once it starts to get into the thick areas it dies every time unless i disengage the clutch when it starts to sputter.
> 
> I've already replaced the drive belt and the reel spins by hand ok.. not effortless but it doesn't get stuck by any means.
> 
> I'm planning on backlapping this week once the materials get in.
> 
> 
> 
> Are these thick areas or tall grass areas or something of the both? Depending on the grass type, the grass height, the height of cut your mower is set at, and the sharpness (or dullness) of your blades you could hit a combo that would cause your mower to stall out. Backlapping should be helpful in most situations though.
Click to expand...

It's a hybrid Bermuda, not sure the variety as we're the 2nd home owner. I'm on the highest setting for the McLane and it's taking off just over an inch. The blades are DULL for sure.

I'm just curious when doing a scalp or a HOC reset is this common or is the sharpness of the blades really the only culprit?


----------



## JRS 9572

El Toro said:


> I made this out of a 1/2 floor plate and some bolts laying around, works great and was dirt cheap.


Before reel rollers made it look so simple I had a family member of mine weld me together this contraption that works fine.

Where are you in SC? Midlands, Upstate, Coast?


----------



## rbergevine

SoCalBermuda said:


> weekendernutjob said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have the John Deer version of the McLane 20. It came with a front roller from ReelRollers.com when I got, but didnt come with an original grass catcher. I want to get the grass catcher attachment but it seems like it would not fit with the roller since the grass catcher is fitted for the two front wheels that originally came on the mower and the roller seems like it would rub on the grass catcher plastic. Does anyone know how and if it fits or what I need to do to have the roller, and the catcher on at the same time.
> 
> 
> 
> I have problems with my grass catcher hopping around and even falling off of my mower because of the reel roller. This only happens on lower height of cut settings though. I've recently tried to add a bungee cord to keep the grass catcher in place and it sort of works. My best idea is to just mow more frequently without the attachment so that there's not a heavy amount of clippings. If anyone has any other options I'm interested to hear.
Click to expand...

I have exact same experience as SoCalBermuda.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

rbergevine said:


> SoCalBermuda said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> weekendernutjob said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have the John Deer version of the McLane 20. It came with a front roller from ReelRollers.com when I got, but didnt come with an original grass catcher. I want to get the grass catcher attachment but it seems like it would not fit with the roller since the grass catcher is fitted for the two front wheels that originally came on the mower and the roller seems like it would rub on the grass catcher plastic. Does anyone know how and if it fits or what I need to do to have the roller, and the catcher on at the same time.
> 
> 
> 
> I have problems with my grass catcher hopping around and even falling off of my mower because of the reel roller. This only happens on lower height of cut settings though. I've recently tried to add a bungee cord to keep the grass catcher in place and it sort of works. My best idea is to just mow more frequently without the attachment so that there's not a heavy amount of clippings. If anyone has any other options I'm interested to hear.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have exact same experience as SoCalBermuda.
Click to expand...

@Reelrollers Any advice on keeping the grass catcher on while cutting low?


----------



## rbergevine

I typically don't use the basket. As somebody mentioned, a little weight in the basket helps. Also, the two bolts holding the rod to the basket can be loosened and there's significant play in the connection once you do - try a different angle, etc. and re-tighten. On mine, you can also slide the connection of the basket on a slot in the rod which also provide some wiggle room - I used those adjustment to stop my basket to roller contact at 5/8 and below. Mostly, I found that weight in basket helps best. I've got some idea to extend/curl the rod hooks but other projects have taken priority.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

rbergevine said:


> I typically don't use the basket. As somebody mentioned, a little weight in the basket helps. Also, the two bolts holding the rod to the basket can be loosened and there's significant play in the connection once you do - try a different angle, etc. and re-tighten. On mine, you can also slide the connection of the basket on a slot in the rod which also provide some wiggle room - I used those adjustment to stop my basket to roller contact at 5/8 and below. Mostly, I found that weight in basket helps best. I've got some idea to extend/curl the rod hooks but other projects have taken priority.


Thanks! I worked on the connecting rods and the basket became a little more stable and didn't bounce off at all. I'll have to play with it some more to get the right angle.


----------



## acroy

I have an ancient Craftsman branded McLane, any idea how old this thing is??


----------



## LoveMyLawn

Most Sears year models are the 2nd and 3rd digit of the serial. So that would make yours a 1971 model.


----------



## acroy

LoveMyLawn said:


> Most Sears year models are the 2nd and 3rd digit of the serial. So that would make yours a 1971 model.


wow - holy chit - 6 yrs older than me!
broke the chain this spring, almost gave up on it. Guess I can't :lol:


----------



## quadmasta

I use this to wrap around the bars on the catcher and also around the brackets on the mower. No more falling off

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00SHBNE8E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HIykFbTMMXSK5


----------



## Percheron

acroy said:


> LoveMyLawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Most Sears year models are the 2nd and 3rd digit of the serial. So that would make yours a 1971 model.
> 
> 
> 
> wow - holy chit - 6 yrs older than me!
> broke the chain this spring, almost gave up on it. Guess I can't :lol:
Click to expand...

Plus, the silver looks cool. If you ever decided to refurbish the thing it would be the best looking mower on the block!


----------



## JasonRMorrow

Mine is a 913410, doubt it's a 1913. 1991 and my Briggs serial number is also a 91.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

JasonRMorrow said:


> Mine is a 913410, doubt it's a 1913. 1991 and my Briggs serial number is also a 91.


From Briggs & Stratton's website: https://www.briggsandstratton.com/e...e-manufacture-date.html#ManufacturedAfter1965
How can I determine the age of my engine? (For engines manufactured after 1965)
The engine's code number indicates the exact date it was manufactured. This system provides an easy way to determine the age of your small engine.

The following is an example of interpreting date Code 99011556:

The first two digits (99) denote the year of manufacture. In this case it is 1999.
The next two digits (01) are the month of the year, which is January.
The following two digits (15) are the day of the month. In this case the 15th.
The final two digits designate the plant and assembly line.
Therefore, this engine's manufacture date was January 15, 1999.
Also, if you want to look up your Briggs engine manual: https://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu/en_gb/support/manuals.html


----------



## gutowscr471

JasonRMorrow said:


> Mine is a 913410, doubt it's a 1913. 1991 and my Briggs serial number is also a 91.


What HOC are you mowing at, yard looks great.


----------



## JasonRMorrow

Thanks, cutting at 7/8", went the diy route for a roller up here in Canada. It's an 8lb schedule 160 pipe, 5/8" axle and some rubber sealed roller bearings.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

Just added and extra 1/2 HP to my mower with this mod


----------



## Bmossin

SoCalBermuda said:


> Just added and extra 1/2 HP to my mower with this mod


How will you keep the women at bay?


----------



## rainman353

Just realized the other day that my carburetor mount screw has come out and I'm leaking some fuel as I mow. I have the 3 hp Briggs engine. Anybody happen to know what size screw to get to reattach the carburetor properly. Thanks.


----------



## quadmasta

rainman353 said:


> Just realized the other day that my carburetor mount screw has come out and I'm leaking some fuel as I mow. I have the 3 hp Briggs engine. Anybody happen to know what size screw to get to reattach the carburetor properly. Thanks.


Put in your model number here
https://www.turfmachinecompany.com/OEMpartfinder

get the part number and look on amazon for it. Get both bolts and a new gasket while you're at it.


----------



## rainman353

quadmasta said:


> Put in your model number here
> https://www.turfmachinecompany.com/OEMpartfinder
> 
> get the part number and look on amazon for it. Get both bolts and a new gasket while you're at it.


Thanks I was able to find the part but it looks like nobody has it in stock anymore except ebay for $5 per screw. I might try a hardward store for something similar.


----------



## quadmasta

get the gasket too


----------



## arm0211

Hopefully this isn't a stupid questions, but I'm afraid it is...

I just moved the front wheels to the C notch. It looks on the manual the only setting is 1 1/2 inch. But I'm able to move the height setting to all 4 notches.

Any idea why is just has notch 4 labeled?


----------



## Percheron

arm0211 said:


> Hopefully this isn't a stupid questions, but I'm afraid it is...
> 
> I just moved the front wheels to the C notch. It looks on the manual the only setting is 1 1/2 inch. But I'm able to move the height setting to all 4 notches.
> 
> Any idea why is just has notch 4 labeled?


I'm not sure either, I think it's because the angle of the bed knife? The other positions don't offer a good cutting angle maybe? I measured mine at the maximum at position "C" notch 4 at a little over 2".


----------



## SGrabs33

arm0211 said:


> Hopefully this isn't a stupid questions, but I'm afraid it is...
> 
> I just moved the front wheels to the C notch. It looks on the manual the only setting is 1 1/2 inch. But I'm able to move the height setting to all 4 notches.
> 
> Any idea why is just has notch 4 labeled?


I think to get to the true c notch aren't you supposed to move the rear axle?


----------



## rbergevine

SGrabs33 said:


> I think to get to the true c notch aren't you supposed to move the rear axle?


Correct.


----------



## Percheron

If you go to Page 7 in the manual (https://www.mclaneedgers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/20_and_25_inch_reel_mowers.pdf)

The rear axle is Low/Med/High. The front wheel is adjustment is ABC, and then the height selection notches.

-Derek


----------



## arm0211

Percheron said:


> If you go to Page 7 in the manual (https://www.mclaneedgers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/20_and_25_inch_reel_mowers.pdf)
> 
> The rear axle is Low/Med/High. The front wheel is adjustment is ABC, and then the height selection notches.
> 
> -Derek


Completely understand the back axle adjustment, but the image i provided only suggest notch 4, C setting and notch 4 is the only configuration set up. I just didn't know if there was any logic to why.

If somebody did want the higher settings and adjusted the rear axle, it seems there are more than just one HOC options that mclane suggest.


----------



## JRS 9572

"Hello darkness my old friend....."

So my McLane @#$% to bed Tuesday night.

Here's some pics of what I have going on. But here's also an explanation:

The sprocket that comes off the belt was practically worn smooth. You can see that in the pic when it's right next to the spare that I have.

After replacing the sprocket, and the belt, I noticed that the sprockets that connect to the axle will not budge at all. If I push the mower the wheels move, but it the sprockets are seized. Also in the pictures looking under the mower it looks as if the bushing or bearing on the wheel to the right has come loose.

I assume I need to order a new axle assembly to get this piece of junk back moving again. I'm also ordering the tires for the drive wheel. I turn the mower a lot on sidewalks. Small castings come off from the tire every time I do that. I just need it to get me through the fall. I'm ordering a commercial Tru Cut this winter when I think pricing is more advantageous.

BTW the axle, sprockets etc., were replaced last July.


----------



## quadmasta

JRS 9572 said:


> "Hello darkness my old friend....."
> 
> So my McLane @#$% to bed Tuesday night.
> 
> Here's some pics of what I have going on. But here's also an explanation:
> 
> The sprocket that comes off the belt was practically worn smooth. You can see that in the pic when it's right next to the spare that I have.
> 
> After replacing the sprocket, and the belt, I noticed that the sprockets that connect to the axle will not budge at all. If I push the mower the wheels move, but it the sprockets are seized. Also in the pictures looking under the mower it looks as if the bushing or bearing on the wheel to the right has come loose.
> 
> I assume I need to order a new axle assembly to get this piece of junk back moving again. I'm also ordering the tires for the drive wheel. I turn the mower a lot on sidewalks. Small castings come off from the tire every time I do that. I just need it to get me through the fall. I'm ordering a commercial Tru Cut this winter when I think pricing is more advantageous.
> 
> BTW the axle, sprockets etc., were replaced last July.


Lift the wheels before you turn.

The sprocket is supposed to be stationary in relation to the axle. If you turn the sprocket does the axle not turn? The bearings that are in the axle support and the ones in the wheels (and endplates) are supposed to allow the axle to spin freely.


----------



## JRS 9572

@quadmasta I cannot get the sprockets to turn that are on the axle. The wheels will roll, but the sprockets won't budge.


----------



## quadmasta

Take the chain on the side of the mower off and lift the drive wheels. If it turns then there's something going on with the reel. If it doesn't either the support bearings are hosed. or the chain driving the drive wheels is bad.

Your chain from the jackshaft was worn/stretched which is why it chewed up your sprocket. Have you replaced the chains?


----------



## JRS 9572

I have chains coming with the parts order.


----------



## kichigai

Planning to do a engine swap...3/4 shaft by 2 7/16 Is the right spec? Planning to use a Honda gx160 . Does sound right ? Can someone direct me to a pulley thanks


----------



## Percheron

kichigai said:


> Planning to do a engine swap...3/4 shaft by 2 7/16 Is the right spec? Planning to use a Honda gx160 . Does sound right ? Can someone direct me to a pulley thanks


I think this thread should answer your questions:

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=459


----------



## itsmejson

Hey guys, where can one get a black grooves roller for a 25" model like the one found here:

https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-139099908060593_2628_3017320


----------



## bhutchinson87

itsmejson said:


> Hey guys, where can one get a black grooves roller for a 25" model like the one found here:
> 
> https://sep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-139099908060593_2628_3017320


Not sure about the black one exactly, but I know Reel Rollers makes them.

https://reelrollers.com/product/mclane-grooved-front-roller/


----------



## Bombers

That one comes "stock" by the only distributor I know that sells them. 
https://store.coronamaxtools.com/25mcgrremo.html


----------



## itsmejson

Thx @Bombers & @bhutchinson87 for the reply.

I decided on a Mclane as my first reel mower. Currently I have 4K sqft that is relatively flat, no hills. Any input between a 20" or 25" model?


----------



## Davedawg

I had a problem with my catcher rubbing on the roller while cutting at lower heights, had to add a small piece of wood (attached with screws, 3/4 inch thick piece of 2x2) to the catcher. It works awesome, keeps the catcher from rubbing on the mower.


----------



## Jbird95

Can anyone confirm maximum HOC for the 25" McLane?


----------



## Davedawg

Just joined this site, wow lots of information! I have a McLane 20" reel mower, have 2 general questions, sorry if this is redundant:

1. Is backlapping your mower a sufficient substitute for grinding? Does it give you as good an edge? Does it wear out your blade more quickly? Seems that backlapping is good for about a month while sharpening the blade traditionally lasts most of the summer (though sharpening costs $140!).
2. Is the "paper cutting test" the best way to adjust the blade against the baseplate (or whatever it is called)? When I adjust the blade, there is a faint metallic "zing" as the blade passes the baseplate. I worry that I'm getting it too close and thus wearing out the blade prematurely but at the same time want a nice cut.

Thanks for your insights, I appreciate any advice.


----------



## Wabos42

New member of the reel mower owners club.
Purchased a used 20" 10 blade, don't know much about it's history but the previous owner indicated it was in 'regular' use but could stand a little TLC.
Starts easy enough, runs a little rough at idle but sounds ok (to me) when at normal speed. He demonstrated it by cutting a small section of lawn, seemed ok to me though this is my 1st rodeo.
It does not cut paper, have ordered a back lapping tool from www.reelrollers.com but they are on back order so I may look at other options if there are any?
What I have gleaned from the web the engine is 27 years old which is mind boggling to me but the code is 930630 so I can only assume it is original to the mower.
My 1st order of business to to clean it up, change the oil and plug. In spite of all my 'research' I did not realize the rear wheel adjustments needed to get to the max HOC so that will be the 1st order of business before I can use it.
I do not 'see' any damage to the reel or bed knife but don't really know how to gauge wear.


----------



## quadmasta

Davedawg said:


> Just joined this site, wow lots of information! I have a McLane 20" reel mower, have 2 general questions, sorry if this is redundant:
> 
> 1. Is backlapping your mower a sufficient substitute for grinding? Does it give you as good an edge? Does it wear out your blade more quickly? Seems that backlapping is good for about a month while sharpening the blade traditionally lasts most of the summer (though sharpening costs $140!).
> 2. Is the "paper cutting test" the best way to adjust the blade against the baseplate (or whatever it is called)? When I adjust the blade, there is a faint metallic "zing" as the blade passes the baseplate. I worry that I'm getting it too close and thus wearing out the blade prematurely but at the same time want a nice cut.
> 
> Thanks for your insights, I appreciate any advice.


1. What you're calling "sharpening" is actually spin grinding of the reel. This isn't the same as backlapping and backlapping cannot be used as a substitute for spin grinding if your reel requires it.

2 Yes. You have to remember that reel mowers cut like scissors so there must be some contact in order for them to work. The contact should be as minimal as possible. On these mowers you'll wear out the bedknife significantly sooner than you'll wear out a reel.


----------



## Phxphenom

Does anyone have a roller for a 17" McLane? Asking here since I got no reply in Marketplace.....
Marc


----------



## SGrabs33

Phxphenom said:


> Does anyone have a roller for a 17" McLane? Asking here since I got no reply in Marketplace.....
> Marc


Is it a powered machine? Not sure if they made rollers for that model. I think they make one for their push 17" mower. Probably going to be hard to find to be honest.


----------



## HeliMan

New reel mower owner. It worked fine for 3 cuts but just recently the drive chain has come off because the master link broke. I reset the link and tried again but it broke again. I got a new masterink and re tensioned the chain. It broke again. Then upon inspection I found the arm that connects to the wheels and the lowering rod had fresh wear on it near the chain. I also noticed that the small sprocket attached to the Axel seemed like it was as far right as it could be and with some pressure I could shift the Axel left and right. Any advice?


----------



## itsmejson

Hi everyone,

Looking to pick up my first reel mower and considering a Mclane. For those of you that have had theirs for awhile, if given the chance would you pick up another Mclane or go with a commercial greensmaster?

The reason I ask is I've read a few other's experience of getting a residential reel mower and then switching to a commercial unit shortly after.

I just want to make sure that I make the right decision the first time.

Appreciate anyone's input!


----------



## a_chan

itsmejson said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> Looking to pick up my first reel mower and considering a Mclane. For those of you that have had theirs for awhile, if given the chance would you pick up another Mclane or go with a commercial greensmaster?
> 
> The reason I ask is I've read a few other's experience of getting a residential reel mower and then switching to a commercial unit shortly after.
> 
> I just want to make sure that I make the right decision the first time.
> 
> Appreciate anyone's input!


Had mine for about a few months during this season. I was strapped for cash and picked up a fixer upper one for $150, just to get my feet wet on reel mowers. Would have saved some money for a used greensmaster if I knew how much a difference the roller and bedknife adjustment would make. I think at the time I was overwhelmed with the idea of maintaining and sharpening the greensmaster. Chalk it up to more mechanical experience at this point.


----------



## DFW_Zoysia

a_chan said:


> itsmejson said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Looking to pick up my first reel mower and considering a Mclane. For those of you that have had theirs for awhile, if given the chance would you pick up another Mclane or go with a commercial greensmaster?
> 
> The reason I ask is I've read a few other's experience of getting a residential reel mower and then switching to a commercial unit shortly after.
> 
> I just want to make sure that I make the right decision the first time.
> 
> Appreciate anyone's input!
> 
> 
> 
> Had mine for about a few months during this season. I was strapped for cash and picked up a fixer upper one for $150, just to get my feet wet on reel mowers. Would have saved some money for a used greensmaster if I knew how much a difference the roller and bedknife adjustment would make. I think at the time I was overwhelmed with the idea of maintaining and sharpening the greensmaster. Chalk it up to more mechanical experience at this point.
Click to expand...

I agree. I was a bit overwhelmed and very nervous to purchase my first Toro GM and looked at the Mclanes and such. I finally bit the bullet and just bought a used TORO.

That unit ended up having quite bit of issues. Quite a bit. What I ended up 'saving' by buying a lower cost unit I could have simply bought a nicer, more expensive unit up front with no issues, no hassle, no frustration.

Finally ended up working through all the issues, but in the process (and spending a lot more than I bought the mower for)I ended up becoming much more knowledgeable and confident with the machine.

Only you will know if you will be happy long tern with the Mclane, and there is no right or wrong answer. I would speculate though if you are really going to be serious in this, a TORO or JD may be where you end up finally landing.

ETA: when I buy GM's now, I don't try and spend as little as possible. I prefer to pay upfront for nicer machines. Not saying that is the correct or 'right' way to do it. Just my personal preference.


----------



## Obi-Lawn_Kenobi

Just picked up a 20" mclane for $80 yesterday off marketplace, starts first pull and runs great...until it hits the grass. First sign of the reel slowing down (and sometimes as soon as the reel is engaged) it stalls out.

Any ideas on where to start?


----------



## PhxHeat

How is the reel to bed knife contact? If it is a bit too tight it can cause that issue. Add grass and it adds more load. How about the clutch adjustment rod tension? If it is too tight it can load up the motor. All the bearings good, not binding seizing up?

Maybe someone has other ideas.


----------



## Phxphenom

I own a 5 blade 17" McLane and can get a 7 blade 17" reel for $20......Any issues with swapping them? I know the 7" will need to be sharpened but wonder if there would be any other issues.....Think it's worth the effort?
Thanks, Marc


----------



## BigBoxLawn

Hey all. Brought home a new guy yesterday. First powered reel for me! Never before run, 0 signs of use on the reel, in damn near mint condition and snagged it for $450. Beyond pumped to use it next season. Few questions.

The darn throttle (plastic part and everything) pops out when I push the throttle forward. Did they install it wrong? The throttle seems to be pretty tight, so maybe it need some WD40?

Second, I've never seen a drive wheel like this on a Mclane. Any info on it? What year you think it may be?

Pictures are after my first time using it in a test area.


----------



## Mister Bill

BigBoxLawn said:


> Hey all. Brought home a new guy yesterday. First powered reel for me! Never before run, 0 signs of use on the reel, in damn near mint condition and snagged it for $450. Beyond pumped to use it next season. Few questions.
> 
> The darn throttle (plastic part and everything) pops out when I push the throttle forward. Did they install it wrong? The throttle seems to be pretty tight, so maybe it need some WD40?
> 
> Second, I've never seen a drive wheel like this on a Mclane. Any info on it? What year you think it may be?
> 
> Pictures are after my first time using it in a test area.


The throttle assembly disengaging from the retainer is a common issue with the McLane products. The fix is to replace the original assembly with this one. https://www.amazon.com/Mclane-Throttle-Control-Replaces-1013-97/dp/B07PH2LC7Z
It requires drilling two holes to install.

I do not know about the drive wheel.


----------



## BigBoxLawn

@Mister Bill Great! Thank you for the insights. I'll just be careful with the darn thing.


----------



## Obi-Lawn_Kenobi

PhxHeat said:


> How is the reel to bed knife contact? If it is a bit too tight it can cause that issue. Add grass and it adds more load. How about the clutch adjustment rod tension? If it is too tight it can load up the motor. All the bearings good, not binding seizing up?
> 
> Maybe someone has other ideas.


It may be too loose or my blades aren't sharp enough, just folds the paper right over and doesn't cut it.


----------



## quadmasta

Obi-Lawn_Kenobi said:


> PhxHeat said:
> 
> 
> 
> How is the reel to bed knife contact? If it is a bit too tight it can cause that issue. Add grass and it adds more load. How about the clutch adjustment rod tension? If it is too tight it can load up the motor. All the bearings good, not binding seizing up?
> 
> Maybe someone has other ideas.
> 
> 
> 
> It may be too loose or my blades aren't sharp enough, just folds the paper right over and doesn't cut it.
Click to expand...

I'd guess that your carb is dirty AF. Give it a little choke and see if that makes it better. If it does, clean your carb and check your tank for rust.


----------



## kichigai

I Recently changed the belt on my mower and I noticed even with the reel engage rod adjusted to the shortest the reel will not disengage after I release the reel handle has anybody experience this ? Thank you


----------



## Greendoc

The belt is the wrong size. Where did you get the belt from?


----------



## kichigai

Ace hardware...the guy says it's the right one it's a oregon p/n 75-123 , 19 1/2 length that's the longest it disengages after a while it doesn't do all the time


----------



## kichigai

How do remove the caps the go over the tube for the rear drive tires ? I removed the 3 long bolts but it the caps don't want to split off the tube is it because it's all rusted out or is the shaft that holds tube is threaded...I tried pounding it off and trying to unscrew the caps and the axle mount with out any luck...thanks for help


----------



## quadmasta

kichigai said:


> How do remove the caps the go over the tube for the rear drive tires ? I removed the 3 long bolts but it the caps don't want to split off the tube is it because it's all rusted out or is the shaft that holds tube is threaded...I tried pounding it off and trying to unscrew the caps and the axle mount with out any luck...thanks for help
> 
> 
> How the hell did you get the tires off? Those fasteners are threaded on both ends, it's not a nut and bolt situation. That's all that's holding the ends on. Use the heat and beat method


----------



## Thesamuraihippo

kichigai said:


> Ace hardware...the guy says it's the right one it's a oregon p/n 75-123 , 19 1/2 length that's the longest it disengages after a while it doesn't do all the time


Make sure the clutch rod isnt backwards?


----------



## kichigai

quadmasta said:


> kichigai said:
> 
> 
> 
> How do remove the caps the go over the tube for the rear drive tires ? I removed the 3 long bolts but it the caps don't want to split off the tube is it because it's all rusted out or is the shaft that holds tube is threaded...I tried pounding it off and trying to unscrew the caps and the axle mount with out any luck...thanks for help
> 
> 
> How the hell did you get the tires off? Those fasteners are threaded on both ends, it's not a nut and bolt situation. That's all that's holding the ends on. Use the heat and beat method
Click to expand...

I cut it off with a utility knife it all good my freeing gave me another assembly thanks for the help


----------



## kichigai

Thesamuraihippo said:


> kichigai said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ace hardware...the guy says it's the right one it's a oregon p/n 75-123 , 19 1/2 length that's the longest it disengages after a while it doesn't do all the time
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure the clutch rod isnt backwards?
Click to expand...

Nah the rod is installed correctly, Thanks for the help


----------



## bretts

kichigai said:


> Thesamuraihippo said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kichigai said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ace hardware...the guy says it's the right one it's a oregon p/n 75-123 , 19 1/2 length that's the longest it disengages after a while it doesn't do all the time
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure the clutch rod isnt backwards?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nah the rod is installed correctly, Thanks for the help
Click to expand...

I just replaced my belt. I had to take it all off, put the connector nut in a vise so I could remove the two pieces. I cleaned the threads with a steel brush and that allowed them to thread back in as far as they could go. It seems to be adjusted right with the new belt.


----------



## itsmejson

DFW_Zoysia said:


> a_chan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> itsmejson said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Looking to pick up my first reel mower and considering a Mclane. For those of you that have had theirs for awhile, if given the chance would you pick up another Mclane or go with a commercial greensmaster?
> 
> The reason I ask is I've read a few other's experience of getting a residential reel mower and then switching to a commercial unit shortly after.
> 
> I just want to make sure that I make the right decision the first time.
> 
> Appreciate anyone's input!
> 
> 
> 
> Had mine for about a few months during this season. I was strapped for cash and picked up a fixer upper one for $150, just to get my feet wet on reel mowers. Would have saved some money for a used greensmaster if I knew how much a difference the roller and bedknife adjustment would make. I think at the time I was overwhelmed with the idea of maintaining and sharpening the greensmaster. Chalk it up to more mechanical experience at this point.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I agree. I was a bit overwhelmed and very nervous to purchase my first Toro GM and looked at the Mclanes and such. I finally bit the bullet and just bought a used TORO.
> 
> That unit ended up having quite bit of issues. Quite a bit. What I ended up 'saving' by buying a lower cost unit I could have simply bought a nicer, more expensive unit up front with no issues, no hassle, no frustration.
> 
> Finally ended up working through all the issues, but in the process (and spending a lot more than I bought the mower for)I ended up becoming much more knowledgeable and confident with the machine.
> 
> Only you will know if you will be happy long tern with the Mclane, and there is no right or wrong answer. I would speculate though if you are really going to be serious in this, a TORO or JD may be where you end up finally landing.
> 
> ETA: when I buy GM's now, I don't try and spend as little as possible. I prefer to pay upfront for nicer machines. Not saying that is the correct or 'right' way to do it. Just my personal preference.
Click to expand...

Thx for your input. I'm leaning towards a McLane to get my feet wet. What is the average price for a used Mclane with Honda engine?


----------



## a_chan

@itsmejson Finding one with specifically a Honda engine will be tough. Average I've seen around my area for one in good running condition was roughly $250-400 or so. Finding a super cheap (<$100) one to fix up might end up costing more considering the price of replacement parts with Mclanes.


----------



## itsmejson

a_chan said:


> @itsmejson Finding one with specifically a Honda engine will be tough. Average I've seen around my area for one in good running condition was roughly $250-400 or so. Finding a super cheap (<$100) one to fix up might end up costing more considering the price of replacement parts with Mclanes.


Thx I found a newer mclane w/ Honda engine for $800 not sure if that is reasonable


----------



## Steely

Found this one on FBMP...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/235558631211240/

I asked the seller if it runs ands cuts and she said her dad couldn't get it running because the carb leaks.

Is this worth offering $50 with the intent of doing the Predator engine swap? Assuming the reel and bedknife are in good condition.


----------



## Obi-Lawn_Kenobi

quadmasta said:


> Obi-Lawn_Kenobi said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PhxHeat said:
> 
> 
> 
> How is the reel to bed knife contact? If it is a bit too tight it can cause that issue. Add grass and it adds more load. How about the clutch adjustment rod tension? If it is too tight it can load up the motor. All the bearings good, not binding seizing up?
> 
> Maybe someone has other ideas.
> 
> 
> 
> It may be too loose or my blades aren't sharp enough, just folds the paper right over and doesn't cut it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'd guess that your carb is dirty AF. Give it a little choke and see if that makes it better. If it does, clean your carb and check your tank for rust.
Click to expand...

Gave up and took it in. Cleaned the carb and it still didn't start, ended up needing new gaskets


----------



## butette

Question about how to take the chain off a McLane reel mower.

I just purchased a used but relatively new/clean McLane 25" reel mower. The reel to bed knife separation is quite large so it could not cut my Zoysia grass at all. I decided to open it up to see if I can adjust the reel to bed knife. When I open the red cover on the left side where the chain is to take the chain off first, I could not find anywhere on the chain where there is a coupling link to separate in order to take the chain off. How did they put that chain on and how do I go about taking it off now when I want to backlap the reel? Anybody have any idea. This is my very first reel mower so my question may be obvious.


----------



## quadmasta

butette said:


> Question about how to take the chain off a McLane reel mower.
> 
> I just purchased a used but relatively new/clean McLane 25" reel mower. The reel to bed knife separation is quite large so it could not cut my Zoysia grass at all. I decided to open it up to see if I can adjust the reel to bed knife. When I open the red cover on the left side where the chain is to take the chain off first, I could not find anywhere on the chain where there is a coupling link to separate in order to take the chain off. How did they put that chain on and how do I go about taking it off now when I want to backlap the reel? Anybody have any idea. This is my very first reel mower so my question may be obvious.


When you say left are you looking at the mower from the reel side? If so there's definitely a matter link on the chain. They may have put it on backwards so it may not be result visible. If you mean the other side, I dunno. I've never seen one of their greens reels


----------



## butette

quadmasta said:


> butette said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question about how to take the chain off a McLane reel mower.
> 
> I just purchased a used but relatively new/clean McLane 25" reel mower. The reel to bed knife separation is quite large so it could not cut my Zoysia grass at all. I decided to open it up to see if I can adjust the reel to bed knife. When I open the red cover on the left side where the chain is to take the chain off first, I could not find anywhere on the chain where there is a coupling link to separate in order to take the chain off. How did they put that chain on and how do I go about taking it off now when I want to backlap the reel? Anybody have any idea. This is my very first reel mower so my question may be obvious.
> 
> 
> 
> When you say left are you looking at the mower from the reel side? If so there's definitely a matter link on the chain. They may have put it on backwards so it may not be result visible. If you mean the other side, I dunno. I've never seen one of their greens reels
Click to expand...

Yes, left looking at the mower from the reel side. I could not find a coupling link on the chain. If it was put on backward, how can you see where it is? Also I noticed that the mower I bought while is in very good shape, looks like new, but has a Honda GX120 engine. I tried to mow my Zoysia grass even after adjusting the cutting height using the tip from this video






and set the height to the max height (I have no idea what the total height is at that point), the mower seems to have a tough time going through my very thick Zeon Zoysia, like the engine does not have enough power, so far not so good.


----------



## quadmasta

You're going to have to look for the retainer on the split link on the other side of the chain; the part toward the side plate.


----------



## DonD

Has anyone tried different rear tires on a real early (1980) 25" self propelled? Mine are really rotting out and do not like the price of new. Looked on e-bay to no avail. Thanks in advance.


----------



## butette

HELP!

My McLane mower can only stay on with the choke closed, but it has power when you throttle the engine. I was told that the carb is clogged up so I try to just clean it with carb cleaner by taking just the bulb out. Whern that did not work I went ahead and replaced it with a new carb that I bought just in case., After I finished, the mower now stays on with the choke in the open position and the engine runs pretty smooth, so I guess that works. NOT! Now when I throttle the engine, the amount of increase in power is very little, not enough to cut any grass (at least I was able to cut some grass before even with the choke closed). What did I do wrong? or is it just a crappy carb that I bought from Amazon?


----------



## Spammage

@butette have you tried adjusting the throttle stop? If not, that could be a solution.


----------



## butette

Spammage said:


> @butette have you tried adjusting the throttle stop? If not, that could be a solution.


I guess I don't even know what that is. I guess I must have screwed up something when I put the new carb in that affect the throttle stop. I will try to google it now and see.


----------



## butette

Spammage said:


> @butette have you tried adjusting the throttle stop? If not, that could be a solution.


OK I just look in the Honda engine manual. I guess the throttle stop in the carb was set a certain way when they ship it and I need to adjust after installing. I will try it tomorrow. THANK YOU!


----------



## butette

Spammage said:


> @butette have you tried adjusting the throttle stop? If not, that could be a solution.


Turns out that was not the problem. I was stupid and hooked up the little connector to the throttle wrong and it was not engaging. As soo as I fixed that, the throttle reved up the engine. Unfortunately I had messed around with the pilot screw and the throttle stop screw before that. Now I have to figure out what is the best setting for those screws since at full throttle the engine would rev wroom, wroom, wroom, ... not like a slighyl lower throttle where the engine just has a constant wroom. I was able to do some test cut with it and I have to say that it is not an easy machine to handle compared to regular mower.


----------



## DFWdude

I am looking at new Mclanes, specifically a 25" model. However, one model's HOC is advertised As 3/4" - 2" and the greenskeeper is listed as 1/8 to 3/4.

I really want something that can scalp to 1/4 or 1/2, and maintain up to 1.5. Neither model seemingly can do this. Is there a work around?

Also, can a Mclane reel spin independent of the drive system, or are they both on / both off like a California trimmer?

Thanks


----------



## butette

DFWdude said:


> I am looking at new Mclanes, specifically a 25" model. However, one model's HOC is advertised As 3/4" - 2" and the greenskeeper is listed as 1/8 to 3/4.
> 
> I really want something that can scalp to 1/4 or 1/2, and maintain up to 1.5. Neither model seemingly can do this. Is there a work around?
> 
> Also, can a Mclane reel spin independent of the drive system, or are they both on / both off like a California trimmer?
> 
> Thanks


both on / both off, at least on my 25" model.


----------



## quadmasta

You can lift the drive wheels though


----------



## butette

So every video I have seen of people doing reel to bed knife adjustment and backlapping, they always have to reel touching the bedknife by quite a bit and show that it can cut paper that way. It seems to me like with that much contact between the reel and the bedknife there would be too much noise and both of them won't last very long. I saw a video the other from the people at reelrooler

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvMzCcuyry0

that says you should not have the reel touching the bedknife so you can cut paper and you should ry to have a very small gap between them (won't be able to cut paper) to cut index card/business card instead and he said that you will be able to cut the grass that way. That makes more sense to me. So why do I see people make videos with reel touching the bedknife to create a small friction so they can cut paper? I tried that and did not like the noise at all.


----------



## quadmasta

Grass is closer to the thickness of paper, not card stock. The reel and bedknife are supposed to act like scissors; contact to cut. Unless this is tight, you'll year the grass instead of cutting it


----------



## butette

quadmasta said:


> Grass is closer to the thickness of paper, not card stock. The reel and bedknife are supposed to act like scissors; contact to cut. Unless this is tight, you'll year the grass instead of cutting it


Besides the recommendation from the reelrollers.com guy, I also found this article. While a blade of grass is closer to the thickness of paper, it seems to me that reel mower are not cutting individual blade but group of blades together which is more like card stock. It feels the same as ifI go out and use my scissor to trim along the edge of location I can't get to. When I am cutting a clumb, the blade do not touch during the cut.

https://archive.lib.msu.edu/tic/gcnew/article/2012jun56b.pdf

Maintain proper clearance
"Easily the most overlooked, but key component
of reel maintenance is to make sure bedknife
clearances are maintained," Sides says. A couple
of minutes spent ensuring the reel blades are not
coming into contact with the bedknife can save
hours of grinding time down the road.
"We definitely promote daily clearance
checks," he adds. "As a rule, you want between
one-thousandth to two-thousandths clearance
between the bed knife and reel blades. Avoid
metal-to-metal contact, as that quickly wears
down a reel."


----------



## quadmasta

One thou is the thickness of a human hair. There will still be audible noise that sounds like hard contact at that distance.


----------



## SOLARSUPLEX

Found a McLane thats going for $75. The owner removed the fuel tank and carb and said they need to be reinstalled. I'm getting some detailed photos tomorrow. He doesnt know very much about it from our conversation so i'm hoping i can drive up and show him it doesnt cut paper (great if it does) and get it for a bit less with the notion ill need to sharpen or get a new reel.

Are there any roller conversion kits floating around that dont require cutting and welding your original parts?


----------



## bhutchinson87

SOLARSUPLEX said:


> Found a McLane thats going for $75. The owner removed the fuel tank and carb and said they need to be reinstalled. I'm getting some detailed photos tomorrow. He doesnt know very much about it from our conversation so i'm hoping i can drive up and show him it doesnt cut paper (great if it does) and get it for a bit less with the notion ill need to sharpen or get a new reel.
> 
> Are there any roller conversion kits floating around that dont require cutting and welding your original parts?


Reel Rollers sells solid/grooved rollers, and it looks like they are currently running a $50 off sale.


----------



## SOLARSUPLEX

@bhutchinson87 Thank you. I just finished readhing this thread front to back and saw links to the reelrollers site with options there. Very nice that its a bolt on solution. Unfortunately, if i'm buying a machine for sub $75 i have a hard time spending $120 on a roller setup. Might fab something on my own over winter if i pick this up.


----------



## SOLARSUPLEX

Mower sold out from under me before i could go pick it up. Hoping to pick something up over the winter. Ideally something a bit newer than most these mclanes end up being.


----------



## Two_Rivers

Hello, my Mclanes reel stopped turning right as my lawn was going into dormancy and I am just now able to take some time to fix it. The clutch still engages fine but the reel will not engage/spin. I believe I have located the point at which it fails on the rear axel (pictured below). Before taking it apart I just wanted to get an idea of what I'm in for. Does it look like a broken axel or simple as the screw is misaligned with the axel like someone posted earlier in the thread.



Chains don't appear stretched and sprockets don't look too worn out yet.


----------



## Reelrollers

butette said:


> So every video I have seen of people doing reel to bed knife adjustment and backlapping, they always have to reel touching the bedknife by quite a bit and show that it can cut paper that way. It seems to me like with that much contact between the reel and the bedknife there would be too much noise and both of them won't last very long. I saw a video the other from the people at reelrooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that says you should not have the reel touching the bedknife so you can cut paper and you should ry to have a very small gap between them (won't be able to cut paper) to cut index card/business card instead and he said that you will be able to cut the grass that way. That makes more sense to me. So why do I see people make videos with reel touching the bedknife to create a small friction so they can cut paper? I tried that and did not like the noise at all.


I wanted to jump in quick. This video was for adjusting a Swardman reel which is a flat blade reel (spin grind) and not a (triangle edged blade) relief grind. When adjusting a reel with a relief grind (McLane, Trimmer, Tru Cut) you do want slight contact reel to bedknife because they are designed a little different.

Most spin grind reels are set with a small .02 "ish" gap depending on the manufacturer. I hope this helps because each manufacturer recommends a specific set up for their reels.


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

Two_Rivers said:


> Hello, my Mclanes reel stopped turning right as my lawn was going into dormancy and I am just now able to take some time to fix it. The clutch still engages fine but the reel will not engage/spin. I believe I have located the point at which it fails on the rear axel (pictured below). Before taking it apart I just wanted to get an idea of what I'm in for. Does it look like a broken axel or simple as the screw is misaligned with the axel like someone posted earlier in the thread.
> Chains don't appear stretched and sprockets don't look too worn out yet.


You've probably already done this by now, but the thing to do next is to just back that set screw out and see if it is lined up right on the hole it fits into on the axle. It looks all the way home to me. If it's not aligned and actually loose it might be tightened up. Then again if it's loose and not aligned that's probably because the axle has snapped right there. Another check to try is, (if you have the mower balanced with the rear axle off the ground) disconnect chain to the input sprocket there on the left hand side of your photo and then turn the reel sprocket on the right. This reverses the direction of power transfer. Hold onto the input sprocket with your left hand to provide some braking force, and turn the reel sprocket with your right. If the drive wheels don't turn with the reel, the axle is broken midway. If the drive wheels turn normally but the input sprocket doesn't, the axle is broken at the input socket. The hole for the set screw in the axle makes it a weak point, and that's the side the engine feeds it torque to the wheels and the reel, so it's a prime candidate for failure. If it's broken there, you can probably see the break just by backing out the set screw and looking in maybe with a flashlight. 
This mower looks OK:



But in fact the axle was snapped right under that sprocket.


----------



## Two_Rivers

Thank you Groundskeeper Willie, I checked that out and it's exactly what you predicted. I'll be diving into the part manual and get a replacement ordered. Looks like all I need is the 1066-D cause everything else looks in order but if anyone has suggestions about other parts that are prone to fail along that axel then might be worth it to do now as well.


----------



## Two_Rivers

The 1066-D rear axel says it's for the pre 1991 model but I could not find an option for post '91. Does anybody ha e any experience here. Only info I saw was on bed knifes.


----------



## Bmossin

Two_Rivers said:


> The 1066-D rear axel says it's for the pre 1991 model but I could not find an option for post '91. Does anybody ha e any experience here. Only info I saw was on bed knifes.


I think it is for after 1991.

https://mclaneedgers.com/product/20-axle-after-191-new/


----------



## Two_Rivers

Ah thanks, the "<" confused me.


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

You should not really have to replace anything but the axle. You might want to replace the bearings. I was able to get the bearings and sprockets off the axle and reuse them on the new axle. I did buy some new bearings (not from Mclane) but didn't end up using them as I had difficulty getting them started. Probably I gave on that too soon. It might have gone better if I had frozen the new axle first. But at the time I didn't have a freezer capable of swallowing lawn mower axles. The old bearings were a bit gritty and I would like to have replaced them. All those sprockets and bearings are an "interference fit". So expect a good fight getting them removed off the rusty axle. Because of the rough treatment though they went on the new axle with a lot less fuss.

The bearings I removed by putting a 5/8" wrench over the axle and hammering on the wrench to scoot the bearings off. The wrench has to make contact only with the inner ring of the bearing (well, as much as possible), so pick the smallest wrench available to fit over the 5/8" diameter axle. The larger and more stubborn sprockets I bashed off with a ~3ft length of 3/4" pipe for one end, (I think I went and bought some nuts that would just slip over the axle, and followed them with the 3/4" pipe for bashing on) The other end - the shorter stub of the axle to the left side of the break I smacked off with a 7/8" deep well impact socket. The longer piece of the axle got hammered on so much the ends mushroomed out and I had to use an angle grinder to shave it down to allow the sprocket to finally "slide" off the very end.

The smart thing to do probably would be to cut the axle up in multiple places so you don't have to move bearings and sprockets so far across so much rough rusty axle. If I had a broken axle again, I might do it that way. But that didn't even occur to me at the time because I was trying to preserve things in the position i found them in as long as possible, and take them apart one thing at a time, so I wouldn't be left with a pile of parts and no memory of how they went together. I took a lot of pictures as I dismantled the axle to serve as reference for reassembly.

I'm glad I did : there were a couple of surprises in there! The bearings for example you don't even see until you get the hangers loose from the chassis. Also a couple of washers may be at the end(s) of the axle where they enter the side plate bearing retainers. .But more importantly, there are three spacer sleeves on the axle - 2 are hiding in plain view. Unlike the bearings, they're not interchangeable because they're different in size and they have to go back in the right spot or else. So you have to keep track of them as they come off the axle. The third and smallest one in particular you want to be sure to find and identify. It goes between the bearing on the right side (reel chain side) and sprocket for the roller drive. It could easily get lost on the garage floor, or discarded as a piece of broken-off, rusty junk, and if you don't put it back you get this:




I can just about guarantee his problem is that the small spacer is missing. I believe that is McLane part 1042, but the parts diagram places #42 (part 1042) way off somewhere far behind the axle as though it were part of the roller drive assembly. And the online parts catalog describes 1042, which by the photograph is clearly a small ring, as a 20″ SPACER FOR ROLLER DRIVE SHAFT. Classic McLane. Just like their misuse of the lesser-than in place of the greater-than symbol. And the various mistakes in the manual concerning cutting heights. If this spacer isn't part 1042, then there is no accounting for it in the McLane manual's exploded diagram. It doesn't exist. But there you can see it, nevertheless, just to the left of the bearing on this axle.



take it step by step and take a lot of pictures.


----------



## Two_Rivers

Parts are ordered, Mclane didn't reopen to start shipping until yesterday so hopefully it's not backlogged too badly.

Willie, I really appreciate the detailed response, I am considering your idea to cut as I go to reduce the amount of items on my bench at one time to keep up with.


----------



## AU_Duncan

Does anyone have close up pictures of the bed knife and reel cutting edge on a Mclane? Looking at a used mower for sale in my area, mower did not cut paper when I checked it out. Would be my first reel mower so trying to learn what to keep and eye out for and avoid any immediate big ticket repairs/replacement parts before I buy it. Thanks


----------



## AU_Duncan

Hey all, found a used Mclane near me. Here is a close up of the reel and bedknife. Does it look like these still have some life in them? Mower did not cut paper when i checked it out so wasn't sure if these were shot or just needed adjustment/sharpening. Thanks


----------



## Spammage

AU_Duncan said:


> Hey all, found a used Mclane near me. Here is a close up of the reel and bedknife. Does it look like these still have some life in them? Mower did not cut paper when i checked it out so wasn't sure if these were shot or just needed adjustment/sharpening. Thanks


I think it looks restorable. It could just need a backlapping, but I wouldn't rule out a grind to get it into good cutting condition. Check those rear tires, as it looks like they've lost their integrity and might need to be replaced. It's something you can do if you're moderately handy, but I think a set costs about $40. That might give you a little negotiation leverage at a minimum.


----------



## AU_Duncan

@Spammage Thanks for the feedback. I'll definitely check out the rear tires. I did go ahead and buy the mower. Working on giving it a service now - spark plug, air filter, change oil, clean carb and then may give it a back lap to see how it cuts.


----------



## itsmejson

Still on the hunt for my first reel mower and recently found this 25" a listing for $499. What's your guys thoughts pricing wise. It seems to be in good condition.



Any huge benefit between 25" or 21" other than width? I have found a few 21" models between $150-$200 and unsure to spend a more on a 25"


----------



## Two_Rivers

I can't speak to the pros or negatives of having the 25" but that reel looks to be in great shape.

Don't know your region but in south Texas these are hard to come buy and would says it's a fair deal if it runs well.


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

Just a heads up: that picture is of a 20", not a 25". Zoom in on the photo and on the left side you can see the black sticker model id#: "20-3.5-RP7". For comparison, see the extra width (and extra wheels on the front axle) of the 25" model.


----------



## Jspitz10

Where did you purchase the roller?


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

Copying this over from my post on the GA page...

Saw a fb listing for a 20in 7 blade Mcclane. "New belt, blades back lapped, oil changed." Roller and catcher included. Thing looks really clean. Going to ask for more pictures. Asking 350.

Anything else I should find out? Fair price or pass? Totally new to reels so not entirely sure what to look out for.

[/quote]


----------



## White94RX

That sounds like a good deal with a roller and grass catcher.


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

White94RX said:


> That sounds like a good deal with a roller and grass catcher.


Waiting for more pictures to be sent over, I'll add those here once I get them.


----------



## dj80d

guys im guessing i need a new bearing which i belive is the 1037-d. how hard will this be to replace and also this is the only numbers i can find on the mower to see how old it is


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

Different Facebook listing than the one I posted earlier. Apparently this one is 4 years old. Reel and bed knife replaced a year ago. Asking 450 which I know is high, but people tend to overprice their things on fb/cl. No roller either, includes the catcher.

Thinking there's no way the price gets dropped enough for me to make it worth it, considering I'd need to pay for the roller.

Thoughts?


----------



## Spammage

@Joeeeekkkkk I think that looks significantly older than 4 years old, and I think the seller is lying if he's trying to convince anyone that reel is one year old.


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

Spammage said:


> @Joeeeekkkkk I think that looks significantly older than 4 years old, and I think the seller is lying if he's trying to convince anyone that reel is one year old.


Yeah my gut has been telling me to pass completely on this.

So if anyone is looking to sell a solid mclane with a roller for 350 or less let me know


----------



## dj80d

So my mower the drive lever when I set the square screw on the bottom. It never stays put. Do I need a new screw or the bar that goes across with the spring attached. I've set it and it goes lose after a few passes.


----------



## Two_Rivers

Had a chance to tackle the new axel and get it installed. @GroundskeeperWillie predicted every issue I would encounter. Thanks to your advice I was somewhat prepared.

1 out of 3 of the set screws gave a good fight. I soaked it in penetrating fluid overnight and brought in a heavier duty Allen key with rigged up extra handle to get enough torque to get it out.

Sprockets and bearings were hard to get off. I used a gear puller ($10 at northern tool) to get them off just takes a little patience which I have a limited supply of. I did end up cutting the axel to give me less length of axel to slide off. Unfortunately I beat on it too much (see comment on limited patience) and ended up buying a new sprocket for the drive wheel chain, bearing next to it and one axel hanger. Also, bought that spacer and it did end up being 1042 - "20" Spacer for Roller Drive Shaft". Makes no sense but there it is confirmed.



Here is the old axel where and broke and the cut I made. 


After putting it all back together and trying to test I found that I must have not removed all the oil like I thought. It was hydro locked and couldn't even pull the coil string. I removed the spark plug and got as much oil out as I could. Checked the air filter and there was no sign of oil there so tried again and it cranked up and produced a smoke show for about 10 minutes before burning off the oil. Hope that didn't harm anything.

I did hear a weird noise on the test drive today that I'm worried about, sounded like something snapped but everything still works. Will definitely ha e to keep an eye on it. Thank you to everyone that posts here, I refer to the thread frequently. I hope to contribute now that I've been in the nitty gritty.


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

Congratulations @Two_Rivers on gettin'er done :thumbup:


----------



## LoCutt

dj80d said:


> So my mower the drive lever when I set the square screw on the bottom. It never stays put. Do I need a new screw or the bar that goes across with the spring attached. I've set it and it goes lose after a few passes.


This is a constant pain to me, too. Although I haven't done this (I'm lazy), I think the solution is to bore a hole where the set screw goes into the bar. This would allow the screw to hold based on its shear strength and not friction. The problem is holding this rod to bore the hole (needless to say, the hole does not go through the rod).

You could use Loctite thread locker, but sooner or later you're going to be back at this task.


----------



## dj80d

LoCutt said:


> dj80d said:
> 
> 
> 
> So my mower the drive lever when I set the square screw on the bottom. It never stays put. Do I need a new screw or the bar that goes across with the spring attached. I've set it and it goes lose after a few passes.
> 
> 
> 
> This is a constant pain to me, too. Although I haven't done this (I'm lazy), I think the solution is to bore a hole where the set screw goes into the bar. This would allow the screw to hold based on its shear strength and not friction. The problem is holding this rod to bore the hole (needless to say, the hole does not go through the rod).
> 
> You could use Loctite thread locker, but sooner or later you're going to be back at this task.
Click to expand...

thanks i was thinking something of the same. i was going to order new shit but i was looking at the bar and nut and was like no way this shit should slip


----------



## itsmejson

Are the majority of you guys using 120grit compound or going with something higher?


----------



## Reelrollers

80 grit is what is commonly used by most reel mower shops. Highest grit I've heard of them using is 120, but much higher is not very common from what we see on powered reel mowers.


----------



## itsmejson

Reelrollers said:


> 80 grit is what is commonly used by most reel mower shops. Highest grit I've heard of them using is 120, but much higher is not very common from what we see on powered reel mowers.


Do you guys offer the 120grit with the mclane backlap kit? I only see 80


----------



## Reelrollers

Yes. Just shoot us an email and we can package the kit with 120, no problem.


----------



## itsmejson

I recently picked up a used Mclane and had a few questions that I noticed as I was inspecting it.

1. On the roller portion I had a tough time lowering/raising the HOC because I could not get the height adj lever holes aligned correctly without loosening the bottom nut. Has anyone else ran into an issue like this? Should this be a cause for concern?









2. On the right side I noticed there was a screw missing, which part # is the correct screw and what does that screw hole do?



Appreciate your time


----------



## KCturffanatic

Is this a decent deal? $400.

McLane 25"? 7 Blade
New Predator Engine (5 hours)
Fresh Spin/Relief Grind
New Pulley/Belt
Grass Catcher

Everything works and runs great. Selling because
They are moving to a much bigger yard.















Thanks,

Dustin


----------



## JRS 9572

I would bite on that. A new one is around $2,000.00. Go to reel rollers, and get you a grooved roller (that's around $160 I think.) You should be in good shape for a while from there.


----------



## KCturffanatic

JRS 9572 said:


> I would bite on that. A new one is around $2,000.00. Go to reel rollers, and get you a grooved roller (that's around $160 I think.) You should be in good shape for a while from there.


Ok thanks for the confirmation. I'm headed to get it Saturday. I always already playing the grooved roller from RR. Early Fathers Day present..😃


----------



## quadmasta

itsmejson said:


> I recently picked up a used Mclane and had a few questions that I noticed as I was inspecting it.
> 
> 1. On the roller portion I had a tough time lowering/raising the HOC because I could not get the height adj lever holes aligned correctly without loosening the bottom nut. Has anyone else ran into an issue like this? Should this be a cause for concern?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. On the right side I noticed there was a screw missing, which part # is the correct screw and what does that screw hole do?
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate your time


1. The grooved McLane roller is goofy and has a separate metal bracket that the wheels and the ReelRoller version don't.
2. It's the same bolt that's used for all of the other bolts on the side of the machine that go through a similar bushing. All of the bolts on the side of the machine are the same thread pitch and size, the only difference is their length. The silver part that's left in your side plate will fall out. The missing bolt holds the front edge of the bedknife and on the McLane the bedknife is actually used as a structural element. The rigid deck supports the side panels at the top, the front has support where the long rod goes through the roller/wheels, the bedknife supports the middle at the bottom. Not having that bolt in likely is letting your mower flex and increases the chances of hard contact between your reel and your bedknife. If I were you I'd take one of the 3 bolts out of the reel, probably the lower front one, and put it in the knife if you're wanting to use it before you have all of the bolts.


----------



## itsmejson

quadmasta said:


> itsmejson said:
> 
> 
> 
> I recently picked up a used Mclane and had a few questions that I noticed as I was inspecting it.
> 
> 1. On the roller portion I had a tough time lowering/raising the HOC because I could not get the height adj lever holes aligned correctly without loosening the bottom nut. Has anyone else ran into an issue like this? Should this be a cause for concern?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2. On the right side I noticed there was a screw missing, which part # is the correct screw and what does that screw hole do?
> 
> 
> 
> Appreciate your time
> 
> 
> 
> 1. The grooved McLane roller is goofy and has a separate metal bracket that the wheels and the ReelRoller version don't.
> 2. It's the same bolt that's used for all of the other bolts on the side of the machine that go through a similar bushing. All of the bolts on the side of the machine are the same thread pitch and size, the only difference is their length. The silver part that's left in your side plate will fall out. The missing bolt holds the front edge of the bedknife and on the McLane the bedknife is actually used as a structural element. The rigid deck supports the side panels at the top, the front has support where the long rod goes through the roller/wheels, the bedknife supports the middle at the bottom. Not having that bolt in likely is letting your mower flex and increases the chances of hard contact between your reel and your bedknife. If I were you I'd take one of the 3 bolts out of the reel, probably the lower front one, and put it in the knife if you're wanting to use it before you have all of the bolts.
Click to expand...

Thx - I was able to get it all taken care of. I spoke with a lady at Mclane and she sent me the bolts I needed.


----------



## blakewills67

Hello,
I am considering buying a new Mclane Honda powered mower and have 2 questions:

Am I better off with a 20" or 25" reel?

Am I better off with a 7 blade or 10 blade reel?
The mower will be used on a residential yard of small/average size. Tiff 419 which I plan to keep taller rather than shorter.
I dont mind spending the money on the upgrades for something I plan to keep forever if they are warranted.
Thanks for any input.


----------



## quadmasta

I'd go with a 20" since they've been making it largely unchanged for almost 40 years now and you can pick up used parts for the cheap.

If you're going taller than about 3/4" go for the 7 blad


----------



## blakewills67

Thank you for the reply Quad! I was leaning that way to keep it more standard, but didn't want to skip a much better option.


----------



## Reelrollers

quadmasta said:


> I'd go with a 20" since they've been making it largely unchanged for almost 40 years now and you can pick up used parts for the cheap.
> 
> If you're going taller than about 3/4" go for the 7 blad


+1


----------



## reel_green

Hello everyone. I have access to a McLane 25. I believe around a 2002 model with the Honda engine. Problem is one of the sets of wheels on the back are bad. The "Three Wheels" pressed together on one side have separated and will not roll. I have looked up a new set and they are almost $200 once I get them shipped. Has anyone ran into this and replaced them? Any good recommendations on a cheaper option? I really do not want to drop $400 on wheels on a $300 machine. I pictured the good wheel below.


----------



## BigBoxLawn

Got a mcclane over the Winter and working on my first reel/bedknife adjustment. 
It was tight, but only when the reel is meeting the MIDDLE portion of the bedknife. This mower is in like new shape, and the bedknife is not bent in the least.
Ive been adjust the right and left side alot, and when the middle part finally stop touching, the whole thing is freely spinning.

When the middle touches, im not able to cut paper on the right or left, but the middle does.

For the right and left to cut paper, its hard to even turn the reel cause the middle is so tight.

Its literally never cut grass yet, could it just be the middle part having not worn at all yet as ive read the middle usually wears out first?

Any help?


----------



## ShadowGuy

Just started diagnostics on this new to me mower. Likely it has old gas, and has been sitting. I am definitely a novice on small engines, but my next move is to clean up the carburetor and either burn through this old gas or siphon it out. I as m hoping that is the cause of the surging. Any tips or other ideas?

https://youtube.com/shorts/c_XggV_MuKI

ETA:

Found this video helpful in my diagnostics. Maybe it will help others, after taking off the air filter box, I can see my linkage was messed up. The throttle control cable was disconnected, and the governor spring had the governor side of the spring loop stretched near the end. Looking at this video I found, it should be looped at nearly half the length of that leg. Still need to find pictures videos of how the throttle control cable links to the lever on the engine. 
Good video of linkage: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMKstmdWom4


----------



## kc8qpu092200

@ShadowGuy if you get the Predator engine in sale it's less than $100 swap and problem solved. Just did mine.


----------



## ShadowGuy

kc8qpu092200 said:


> @ShadowGuy if you get the Predator engine in sale it's less than $100 swap and problem solved. Just did mine.


I have seen that conversion. Looks good! I haven't bought anything to fix the engine yet, but at ~$100 for a swap to a new engine, the bar is really low on buying anything to repair the B&S. I am just hoping a good cleaning and adjustments can fix it.


----------



## Greendoc

Common issue with that type of carb is terminal blockage/corrosion of the air and fuel passages within. Many of those holes are as small as the width of hair. I once priced a replacement. $100+.


----------



## quadmasta

ShadowGuy said:


> Just started diagnostics on this new to me mower. Likely it has old gas, and has been sitting. I am definitely a novice on small engines, but my next move is to clean up the carburetor and either burn through this old gas or siphon it out. I as m hoping that is the cause of the surging. Any tips or other ideas?
> 
> https://youtube.com/shorts/c_XggV_MuKI
> 
> ETA:
> 
> Found this video helpful in my diagnostics. Maybe it will help others, after taking off the air filter box, I can see my linkage was messed up. The throttle control cable was disconnected, and the governor spring had the governor side of the spring loop stretched near the end. Looking at this video I found, it should be looped at nearly half the length of that leg. Still need to find pictures videos of how the throttle control cable links to the lever on the engine.
> Good video of linkage:


Definitely dirty carb, the diaphragm may also need replacing


----------



## quadmasta

BigBoxLawn said:


> Got a mcclane over the Winter and working on my first reel/bedknife adjustment.
> It was tight, but only when the reel is meeting the MIDDLE portion of the bedknife. This mower is in like new shape, and the bedknife is not bent in the least.
> Ive been adjust the right and left side alot, and when the middle part finally stop touching, the whole thing is freely spinning.
> 
> When the middle touches, im not able to cut paper on the right or left, but the middle does.
> 
> For the right and left to cut paper, its hard to even turn the reel cause the middle is so tight.
> 
> Its literally never cut grass yet, could it just be the middle part having not worn at all yet as ive read the middle usually wears out first?
> 
> Any help?


Sounds like your reel needs a spin grind.


----------



## ShadowGuy

kc8qpu092200 said:


> @ShadowGuy if you get the Predator engine in sale it's less than $100 swap and problem solved. Just did mine.


What do you do with the throttle on the handle? Does it integrate into the Predator?


----------



## kc8qpu092200

@ShadowGuy I didn't even bother trying to hook it up.


----------



## ShadowGuy

kc8qpu092200 said:


> @ShadowGuy I didn't even bother trying to hook it up.


Thats what i figured the solution is. 

Mine is not connected now, and I can't seem to figure out the linkage mechanics to work correctly.


----------



## Percheron

NEW ENGINE IS ON ITS WAY!

Hi all,

So, after a successful lawn season of reel mowing I've just ordered a new Briggs for my mid '90's era 20". The mower itself is a Craigslist find I got last year. It's very clean (paint still shines), almost no rust or dings on the reel. The tires still have lots of tread too. While it may have high hours, it was taken care of.

The questions I have are:

Are there any other wear items I should replace?

I was going to replace the belt and drive chains.

If I replace the chains should I do the sprockets too? They look ok, but as a newb, what do I know?

Bearings?

Nothing really wiggles, reel is solid it seems and the mower doesn't drift or wander when mowing.

I've read through the threads regarding engine swaps, but since everyone's mower is different I just wanted to know if there was any items that SHOULD be replaced as a general rule.

Thanks!
-Derek


----------



## quadmasta

The sprockets should be replaced if they've run with extremely worn chains and have gotten pointy.


----------



## BigBoxLawn

quadmasta said:


> BigBoxLawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Got a mcclane over the Winter and working on my first reel/bedknife adjustment.
> It was tight, but only when the reel is meeting the MIDDLE portion of the bedknife. This mower is in like new shape, and the bedknife is not bent in the least.
> Ive been adjust the right and left side alot, and when the middle part finally stop touching, the whole thing is freely spinning.
> 
> When the middle touches, im not able to cut paper on the right or left, but the middle does.
> 
> For the right and left to cut paper, its hard to even turn the reel cause the middle is so tight.
> 
> Its literally never cut grass yet, could it just be the middle part having not worn at all yet as ive read the middle usually wears out first?
> 
> Any help?
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like your reel needs a spin grind.
Click to expand...

Its pretty much BRAND new. I feel like it shouldn't need that yet? Will using it help to relieve it?


----------



## Percheron

quadmasta said:


> The sprockets should be replaced if they've run with extremely worn chains and have gotten pointy.


Ok, good to know. I think I'll wait till next season. I've spent my budget for it this year. New clutch, belt and jack shaft, plus the engine and sharpening. I'm trying not to go over the halfway cost of a new unit in one year! Lol!


----------



## Adrian82

Can anyone reference the oem part or some alternate part I can use to lock in the reel sprocket?


----------



## Adrian82

Oem item


Found it
https://mclaneedgers.com/product/716-20x716-set-screw/


----------



## CJK

Hey everyone..

Been reading through some of the comments but can't find this exact question.. and it's probably a stupid one but...

In the manual it says this clutch rod is suppose to have slight tension on the belt when it is engaged (handle up), but it's about 1/2 inch off and it doesn't seem to matter how I tighten the connector piece, it isn't right. Anyone else have this problem or is a non-issue? Any help is appreciated!


----------



## SGrabs33

@CJK is the clutch engaging and disengaging properly when you pull the level toward the handle and release?

You just want the reel and the rear roller to spin when you engage the handle. And you want it to stop fairly quickly when you release.

Sorry I read through your comment and I'm not positive on what the actual issue is.


----------



## CJK

Thanks for the response @SGrabs33

It engages and disengages fine. I was just checking to see if in the 4th picture that was how it was supposed to look when it was engaged. There is about a 1/2 in gap between the belt and rod and in the manual it says there's supposed to be slight tension on the belt.


----------



## SGrabs33

CJK said:


> Thanks for the response @SGrabs33
> 
> It engages and disengages fine. I was just checking to see if in the 4th picture that was how it was supposed to look when it was engaged. There is about a 1/2 in gap between the belt and rod and in the manual it says there's supposed to be slight tension on the belt.


Yep. That gap is supposed to be there. It's not supposed to touch that clutch rod. Your all good!


----------



## Steely

Can anyone tell me where to find the manual for a McLane G 25-5 5-10. I saw one popped up on FM and would like to research it a bit more. Specifically the minimum HOC.


----------



## Adrian82

Hello All,
I just used my McLane for the first time in a dew years. Fresh grind, new chains and belt. The 5 wheels arent new, but arent too bad. I tuned the engine to 3600 rpm give or take a few. The machine moves extremely slow when compared to my PGM 22 or C27. My other two machines pull me wheras I am ready to push the Mclane to move faster. Any ideas on what may be the issue?

3.5 Honda Commercial Engine


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

Unfortunately had the belt go out on my 25in mclane. The existing belt says 4L-195 and I ordered this - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074G4CJTL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_G9T8BCJ0M19YXAFNJ0F1

Will this work? It only specifies 20" in the description so want to be sure. I also have a Honda engine if that makes a difference.

Thanks!


----------



## itsmejson

Has anyone ever lowered the rear wheels on their mclane? I've looked all online and I've have never been able to find info or a video on anyone who has done it.

My Mclane has the larger front roller on it and the lowest I can cut is roughly 3/4"


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

itsmejson said:


> Has anyone ever lowered the rear wheels on their mclane? I've looked all online and I've have never been able to find info or a video on anyone who has done it.
> 
> My Mclane has the larger front roller on it and the lowest I can cut is roughly 3/4"


Following for responses. Interested in hearing how to do this. I'm on the second lowest setting and it's probably .8". (The lowest notch angles in such a way that it doesn't stay in place when I start cutting unless I jam something in there to hold it in position)


----------



## quadmasta

Have either of you moved the bolt that holds the front roller up?


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

quadmasta said:


> Have either of you moved the bolt that holds the front roller up?


I haven't since I got mine. I have the grooved roller on the middle bolt.


----------



## itsmejson

quadmasta said:


> Have either of you moved the bolt that holds the front roller up?


Which bolt are asking about?


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

itsmejson said:


> quadmasta said:
> 
> 
> 
> Have either of you moved the bolt that holds the front roller up?
> 
> 
> 
> Which bolt are asking about?
Click to expand...

I just adjusted mine, pretty simple. The nut that has the threading sticking out that is attached to the height adjustment can be moved up or down one hole. Moving it up would lower the HOC. Mine was previously in the middle and on the lowest setting I was barely under an inch. Now I'm at about half an inch without being on the lowest setting. There is a diagram somewhere that shows the roller position and what each adjustment position correlates to


----------



## itsmejson

Joeeeekkkkk said:


> itsmejson said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quadmasta said:
> 
> 
> 
> Have either of you moved the bolt that holds the front roller up?
> 
> 
> 
> Which bolt are asking about?
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I just adjusted mine, pretty simple. The nut that has the threading sticking out that is attached to the height adjustment can be moved up or down one hole. Moving it up would lower the HOC. Mine was previously in the middle and on the lowest setting I was barely under an inch. Now I'm at about half an inch without being on the lowest setting. There is a diagram somewhere that shows the roller position and what each adjustment position correlates to
Click to expand...

Could you take a pic of how you did it? I'm going to try later today however I don't see how the front roller will line up with that bottom bolt.


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

itsmejson said:


> Joeeeekkkkk said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> itsmejson said:
> 
> 
> 
> Which bolt are asking about?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just adjusted mine, pretty simple. The nut that has the threading sticking out that is attached to the height adjustment can be moved up or down one hole. Moving it up would lower the HOC. Mine was previously in the middle and on the lowest setting I was barely under an inch. Now I'm at about half an inch without being on the lowest setting. There is a diagram somewhere that shows the roller position and what each adjustment position correlates to
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Could you take a pic of how you did it? I'm going to try later today however I don't see how the front roller will line up with that bottom bolt.
Click to expand...

Here you go. You'll be moving it to the highest of the 3 holes, which will lower the HOC range.




Edit: only had this thing a couple months so if this setup is wrong or will end up in some sort of failure others feel free to correct me


----------



## itsmejson

@Joeeeekkkkk Thx for the pic. I checked mine and turns out I already had it in the top hole already.

My front roller is a bit larger in diameter than yours so I measured each notch:


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

itsmejson said:


> @Joeeeekkkkk Thx for the pic. I checked mine and turns out I already had it in the top hole already.
> 
> My front roller is a bit larger in diameter than yours so I measured each notch:


Nice. How much bigger is your roller? If you have it attached at the highest of the 3 holes I would expect your lowest setting to still be lower than 7'8"? I measured mine after maxing the switch, not using a HOC measuring tool, but held a level up against the back wheel and the roller and looks like I can get below .5".


----------



## lalojamesliz

I just did a backlap and it cuts good. I was looking into when to replace the bed knife because I was helping a friend to look for one of these mowers and saw that when the reel height adjustment bolts are low, it's almost time
I decided to look at mine and they are low and un even. One side is lower than the other. Crap
I don't know much but the blades have no relief cut right? 
I was about to purchase a new trucut but decided to just tune my mclane up and save $2k for now. It does cut good for now. I upgraded my 3.5hp Briggs to a 6.5 predator and love the difference. Much quieter and a much better cut when using the drive wheels. 
I've been looking around on how to tell when to replace the reel or bed knife but only see how to back lap. Anyone have links to where I can get a new bed knife or reel if I do need them?


----------



## lalojamesliz

This mower was 600 new in 2006, now they are double that. Wow


----------



## Mightyquinn

Probably just needs sharpened (with a relief) and maybe a new bedknife. If you can get that done, it should last you quite awhile with some backlapping here and there.


----------



## lalojamesliz

Any recommendations on where to buy the bed knife? I was also considering a grooved roller but 180 and 15 for shipping...... I'll have to think about that one


----------



## Mightyquinn

I would make a post over here at McClane Reel Mower Questions or you might be able to find your answer in that thread alone. You can get more detailed help there.

If you want me to move this thread over there just let me know :thumbup:


----------



## lalojamesliz

Yes, that would probably help. Can you move it please?


----------



## Mightyquinn

@lalojamesliz

I merged it into this thread!

Hopefully you will get some solid advice over here!


----------



## lalojamesliz

Mightyquinn said:


> @lalojamesliz
> 
> I merged it into this thread!
> 
> Hopefully you will get some solid advice over here!


Thank you


----------



## SGrabs33

Mclane replacement parts are pretty pricey. I think you can just buy them direct from mclane. Also can try and find them on eBay. But I would go with a grind to start if you can find it.


----------



## arm0211

I've checked the reel to bed knife contact, recently back lapped, and made sure the bed knife was the same height on both sides. Any ideas on what else could cause this?


----------



## SGrabs33

arm0211 said:


> I've checked the reel to bed knife contact, recently back lapped, and made sure the bed knife was the same height on both sides. Any ideas on what else could cause this?


If the bedknife is the same distance from the ground on both sides then that just going to be a low spot in the lawn most likely.


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

Anyone swap out the oil bath filter? I have the Honda gx160 and looking to see what I can order to make this as smooth a swap as possible.

Searched the thread but didn't find anything calling out a specific product. Thanks!

Edit - seems like this may fit? https://www.amazon.com/Hayskill-Cleaner-Assembly-Generator-17230-Z51-820/dp/B08LKZZSML/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=honda+gx160+air+filter&qid=1622691251&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRktNRlJLS0VGR0FTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjQzOTI2MjRSSU4wSEwwVlVMWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjA1Njg5MVBPUEk1SDJZQVRMUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl


----------



## Spammage

Why not just the filter?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ372PO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_J0TAYVGJQS4M5HJK0VR1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

Spammage said:


> Why not just the filter?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ372PO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_J0TAYVGJQS4M5HJK0VR1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


Good point wasn't sure if it fit differently than the link I posted but looks like it'll work.


----------



## SGrabs33

Joeeeekkkkk said:


> Anyone swap out the oil bath filter? I have the Honda gx160 and looking to see what I can order to make this as smooth a swap as possible.
> 
> Searched the thread but didn't find anything calling out a specific product. Thanks!
> 
> Edit - seems like this may fit? https://www.amazon.com/Hayskill-Cleaner-Assembly-Generator-17230-Z51-820/dp/B08LKZZSML/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=honda+gx160+air+filter&qid=1622691251&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExRktNRlJLS0VGR0FTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjQzOTI2MjRSSU4wSEwwVlVMWCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjA1Njg5MVBPUEk1SDJZQVRMUCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl


I've done that replacement with one off Amazon. Not that specific one though. Guessing it would work.


----------



## ShadowGuy

My pull cord broke today when I started her up. Luckily it started on the second pull, so I was able to get the lawn mowed and that will buy me 2-3 days before I need to get out there again.

Any tips on replacing the cord? I will be taking it apart tomorrow.


----------



## ShadowGuy

ShadowGuy said:


> My pull cord broke today when I started her up. Luckily it started on the second pull, so I was able to get the lawn mowed and that will buy me 2-3 days before I need to get out there again.
> 
> Any tips on replacing the cord? I will be taking it apart tomorrow.


I didn't see any guidance when I searched, so here is a quick rundown of what I learned.

1. There are three bolts holding on the flywheel cover, top and the bottom of each side.
2. Once removed, clean out all the grass debris from the cover and flywheel.
3. Using needle nose pliers pull out the fragment of chord from the winding device.
4. Spin the winding wheel carefully to charge the spring so that when released it will wind the chord. I don't know how many spins it takes, I spun it until I felt the resistance change. It took me two try's to get it right. The first time didn't fully wind up the chord.
5. Use a clamp to hold the winding device from spinning while you thread the chord through the wheel then the cover..
6. Test that the cord recoils after pulling out.
7. Replace cover.


----------



## Spdude

Hi everybody! Just picked up this McLane mower for $130 and I'm trying to replace some parts on it. I need to replace my throttle cable since the plasting has cracked and will not stay in place. What does it mount to?Or how does it stay in place? Can't seem to find a direct replacement.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Spdude the top of your is cracked. The plastic is broken. The plastic piece just has a couple of raised points on it that "pop" behind the metal ears in that hole. Hope that makes sense. Haha.

Shouldn't be too hard to find a replacement online. Alternatively you can just adjust the throttle down by the engine and forget about the one on the handlebars.


----------



## Spdude

SGrabs33 said:


> @Spdude the top of your is cracked. The plastic is broken. The plastic piece just has a couple of raised points on it that "pop" behind the metal ears in that hole. Hope that makes sense. Haha.
> 
> Shouldn't be too hard to find a replacement online. Alternatively you can just adjust the throttle down by the engine and forget about the one on the handlebars.


Makes perfect sense. Thank you! Wonder if I can find just the plastic piece. Gonna call McLane tomorrow.


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

Spammage said:


> Why not just the filter?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ372PO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_J0TAYVGJQS4M5HJK0VR1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


So I took the oil filter off and screwed on the new filter. Does this need the plastic housing piece over it? Or is this fine? Doesn't seem like the previous cover fits. Guessing it would be okay but curious if I need something else.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Joeeeekkkkk the plastic cover would for sure help in reducing how quickly that air filter gets dirty. I'd reccomend trying to find one that fits.


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

SGrabs33 said:


> @Joeeeekkkkk the plastic cover would for sure help in reducing how quickly that air filter gets dirty. I'd reccomend trying to find one that fits.


Gotcha. I'm by no means mechanically inclined but that was my first thought - it'll work as is but the cover will help extend the life of the filter. A previous Amazon link I posted looked to have the filter and plastic housing sold together, so I may just order that and see if it works. Thanks


----------



## Dlmartin1984

Picked up a 25" 7-Blade McLane last week. It's in pretty solid condition. But I'm working to fully refurb it to OG form. It has a brand new engine, so I'm wondering when this McLane was actually made.

It has the deadman clutch handle, but who knows if it was added after the fact.

Anyone have any thoughts on roundabout date?


----------



## Spdude

Can one of you guys take a picture of the belt guard for me please? I'm looking to see where it attaches to as I just purchased a new one from McLane. Also, size bolt? Washer? Nut? Thanks!


----------



## Mattopb3

Picked up a used McLane yesterday. It starts on the first pull but it's been sitting for 2 years and surges up and down as it idles so it's going to need a tune up. But how do I go about finding a shop that will sharpen the blades on the reel and bed knife? Would anyone on here have any suggestions of a shop in Los Angeles County/ San Gabriel Valley Area?


----------



## Spammage

Joeeeekkkkk said:


> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just the filter?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ372PO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_J0TAYVGJQS4M5HJK0VR1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> So I took the oil filter off and screwed on the new filter. Does this need the plastic housing piece over it? Or is this fine? Doesn't seem like the previous cover fits. Guessing it would be okay but curious if I need something else.
Click to expand...

You are correct. The new air filter would be okay without the plastic cover, but I too would want it covered. I have extra covers, so it wasn't an issue for me, but I would return the bare filters and get the full setup including the cover if I didn't have one already.


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

Spammage said:


> Joeeeekkkkk said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> 
> Why not just the filter?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DQ372PO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_J0TAYVGJQS4M5HJK0VR1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> 
> 
> So I took the oil filter off and screwed on the new filter. Does this need the plastic housing piece over it? Or is this fine? Doesn't seem like the previous cover fits. Guessing it would be okay but curious if I need something else.
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You are correct. The new air filter would be okay without the plastic cover, but I too would want it covered. I have extra covers, so it wasn't an issue for me, but I would return the bare filters and get the full setup including the cover if I didn't have one already.
Click to expand...

Makes sense and I'll probably hold onto these as the combo looks to be the same filter. How often are these typically changed? Once a season?


----------



## Spdude

Just to make sure I understand this correctly... The spring on the HOC adjustment lever is just for tension purposes? Can't find any literature on it.


----------



## quadmasta

Spdude said:


> Just to make sure I understand this correctly... The spring on the HOC adjustment lever is just for tension purposes? Can't find any literature on it.


Yep


----------



## BigBoxLawn

Anyone have any tips/tricks for using the grass catcher while having a reel roller front roller? When not set at 1 inch HOC or so, it touches the roller and makes it incredibly difficult to maneuver. The lower you mow the worse it is.


----------



## fcortes626

Mattopb3 said:


> Picked up a used McLane yesterday. It starts on the first pull but it's been sitting for 2 years and surges up and down as it idles so it's going to need a tune up. But how do I go about finding a shop that will sharpen the blades on the reel and bed knife? Would anyone on here have any suggestions of a shop in Los Angeles County/ San Gabriel Valley Area?


There is a place in West Covina by the 10 freeway called The Lawnmower Corner. They sell parts for lawnmowers and also fix them and do tune-ups. We took ours last year and they charged i believe $50 to sharpen the blades.


----------



## quadmasta

BigBoxLawn said:


> Anyone have any tips/tricks for using the grass catcher while having a reel roller front roller? When not set at 1 inch HOC or so, it touches the roller and makes it incredibly difficult to maneuver. The lower you mow the worse it is.


Someone on here said they screwed a piece of 1.5" PVC running parallel to the reel where the ridge on the bottom of the catcher is. I only had 1" laying around and used that and it works really well but the 1.5 would be even better.


----------



## BigBoxLawn

This is my first season with the Mcclane. I scalped to dirt and tried to maintain at 7/16. I was getting a ton of lines like the picture below. Ive been letting the height slowly up to try and get rid of them. I continue to get these lines where the grass is slightly higher on one pass to the next where they meet. Any tips or ideas on how to fix this? I have a front roller. It looks great and stripes well. If i could just get rid of these cut lines Id be happy. Any ideas?


----------



## quadmasta

Are you double mowing every time?


----------



## theguybrarian

Picked up a used 20" from Craigslist.

Thoughts on this bedknife -- good amount of life left? End of life? I have a new one I can swap it with. Is that worth it, or can I ride with this one for a while longer?


----------



## BigBoxLawn

quadmasta said:


> Are you double mowing every time?


Yes I almost always double mow in 2 seperate directions. The very slight slope seems to possible have the downhill side always digging in further, is that possible? Not sure how I go about fixing this, but it looked better with a manual reel and no lines, which is frustrating.


----------



## Spdude

How in the heck do you guys replace the handle bearings or clutch bearing? Does it have to be pressed out? HANDLE BEARING (#1002)


----------



## Spdude

ja3415 said:


> UPdate, of course right after I post this I find the Part Number and can find them in several places (including McLane web site) Part Numbers 1046-D and 1002 are both the same. Less than $10 each


How did you replace the bearing? I'm having trouble getting the old ones out.


----------



## quadmasta

They press out/in. If you don't have a press you can use two properly sized sockets plus a vice. If you don't have a vice you can use two properly sized sockets and a hammer  If you don't support the surrounding metal well you'll bend it and the new one may not fit well. If you run into that some Loctite 680 will do you good


----------



## TigerKnight

I am looking at getting into the reel mower game. I previously used a manual reel on centipede years ago and recently moved to Athens, GA. I posted this in the metro-Atlanta forum and it was suggested I post here.

Here is the old centipede lawn in Baton Rouge:


I am interested in a used McLane I saw on CraigList, but the price seems a bit high from what I have read in this thread. I will be mowing about 8,000 ft2. A large upgrade from my previous home.

The asking price is $550 (7-blade). I will have to add a front roller to this. I am thinking something closer to $300. Note, I have not looked at it in person.

Also, would I be better served with a 25-inch model for this size yard? I think I would start with the 20 inch and upgrade in a season or two. Or should I bit the bullet and go with a new 25-inch mclane?





Thanks all! I am looking forward to getting a lawn journal started in the next few months with a lawn renovation about to start at my new house.

-Matt


----------



## Spammage

IMO it's not a bad unit, but I wouldn't pay that much for it especially without the front roller. I would look to find a used Peachtree 30" Legacy mower if I were in your area. It's a larger Cal Trimmer and they're built like tanks.


----------



## TigerKnight

I am thinking $250 would be a fair price. Thoughts?

I think I may try and get this to get me in the reel game and then upgrade to a larger model later. I like your suggestion on the PeachTree and will keep that in mind.


----------



## MadMike

I just purchased what appears to be the same model mower off CraigsList for $250. Check to see if the gas tank is leaking from the welds underneath. Good Luck!


----------



## TigerKnight

MadMike said:


> I just purchased what appears to be the same model mower off CraigsList for $250. Check to see if the gas tank is leaking from the welds underneath. Good Luck!


Good to know. Asking price on several McLanes like this are $700-$900 on Craigslist in metro Atlanta. I guess they are selling for that much? But I am not paying that - unless I am incorrect in the value.


----------



## quadmasta

TigerKnight said:


> MadMike said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just purchased what appears to be the same model mower off CraigsList for $250. Check to see if the gas tank is leaking from the welds underneath. Good Luck!
> 
> 
> 
> Good to know. Asking price on several McLanes like this are $700-$900 on Craigslist in metro Atlanta. I guess they are selling for that much? But I am not paying that - unless I am incorrect in the value.
Click to expand...

There's a guy selling two jakes in Dacula. He wants $1500 for the pair. I was going to buy them both and sell one but I decided that my yard's not right for a greensmower (big hill)


----------



## klsmith259

I would be patient and wait to see what is available. I was able to get a Tru cut for around $400. I've seen other mowers on the Atlanta area go for similar prices.

Forgot to mention that at that price you can get a California trimmer for a little bit more unless you are set on a McLane.


----------



## TigerKnight

klsmith259 said:


> I would be patient and wait to see what is available. I was able to get a Tru cut for around $400. I've seen other mowers on the Atlanta area go for similar prices.
> 
> Forgot to mention that at that price you can get a California trimmer for a little bit more unless you are set on a McLane.


Good points. I am not in a hurry. I can even wait until next season. The lawn needs a good amount of work before I can get a reel mower on it. My rotary can get me through for now while I keep looking for a reasonable mower.

I am not set on a McLane. I have messed around with a TruCut 27-inch (neighbor) and it seems too heavy. And I was not a fan of the thumb-type drive system. I am not sure how the 20 inch McLane and Tru-Cut compare on weight.


----------



## Obi-Lawn_Kenobi

Quick question, got a mclane 20" and I've adjusted the reel to bed knife twice now but I've checked it again today and it's shifted or drifted higher again. Can I add some thread tight to the bolts or is there something I'm missing?


----------



## SoCalBermuda

TigerKnight said:


> klsmith259 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would be patient and wait to see what is available. I was able to get a Tru cut for around $400. I've seen other mowers on the Atlanta area go for similar prices.
> 
> Forgot to mention that at that price you can get a California trimmer for a little bit more unless you are set on a McLane.
> 
> 
> 
> Good points. I am not in a hurry. I can even wait until next season. The lawn needs a good amount of work before I can get a reel mower on it. My rotary can get me through for now while I keep looking for a reasonable mower.
> 
> I am not set on a McLane. I have messed around with a TruCut 27-inch (neighbor) and it seems too heavy. And I was not a fan of the thumb-type drive system. I am not sure how the 20 inch McLane and Tru-Cut compare on weight.
Click to expand...

I started with a beater McLane and couldn't wait a full year before getting another used but newer McLane. Both have B&S engines. After my second season I was itching to get something more robust. I only have about 2,000 sq ft of turf but the 20" McLane feels too small/light for me. It would bounce around where there were minor bumps, even after I installed a roller from Reel Rollers. The roller did help substantially though however it cost as both of the used McLane's (I got them for $100 each). The market for used TruCuts is dry in my area but I was able to find a very old greens mower with a Honda GX140 engine for $400. I like it much better than the McLanes I have. With all that said, I probably would choose a McLane to start with, just to get used to reel mowing and all of the joys that come with it like adjusting height of cut and backlapping. With my experience I would recommend, If you can find, a used McLane with a Honda engine and then add on a ReelRoller if it doesn't come with a roller.


----------



## quadmasta

Obi-Lawn_Kenobi said:


> Quick question, got a mclane 20" and I've adjusted the reel to bed knife twice now but I've checked it again today and it's shifted or drifted higher again. Can I add some thread tight to the bolts or is there something I'm missing?


Adjust the forward ones first. Get them barely loose and tap the bracket with a mallet to move the reel for slight adjustments. When you get it set right snug those up and then check again. Then tighten those and then it doesn't matter what order you tighten the others in.


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

Any idea if this came off my mclane? Was changing out the oil filter and as I put the mower away this was on the ground. I keep my socket wrench in a little baggie so was hoping it just happened to be floating around in there. Cut with the mower today seemed to be normal.


----------



## TigerKnight

Does anyone know where I can find McLane decals? I am thinking about cleaning and putting a fresh coat of paint and would like to put on new decals. An internet and eBay search turned up empty.


----------



## itsmejson

Nicked my first rock with my mclane today 

Immediately inspected the reel and bedknife and found this chip on the bedknife. Any cause for major concern? I don't need to get a new bedknife do it? I also ended up checking on reel to bedknife contact and found I had to adjust afterwards as it wasn't cutting paper cleanly.


----------



## SGrabs33

itsmejson said:


> Nicked my first rock with my mclane today
> 
> Immediately inspected the reel and bedknife and found this chip on the bedknife. Any cause for major concern? I don't need to get a new bedknife do it? I also ended up checking on reel to bedknife contact and found I had to adjust afterwards as it wasn't cutting paper cleanly.


Only need to change it if you notice it causing issues like missing grass blades.

That does seem like a rather descent sized nick in the bedknife tho.


----------



## ShadowGuy

Does anyone know how tell if this reel is worth saving? It's a 10 blade I just brought home off a non-running machine I bought for parts. I currently have a 7 blade and cut at 5/8.


----------



## B MAN

I'm new to the forum as well as one just starting out with a McLane mower. It was a freebie so what do I have to lose right? Anyway, I think I need to sharpen the blades and do whatever else is needed, especially on the bedknife(?). Any suggestions as to what needs to be done first and what not to do is appreciated.


----------



## B MAN

I forgot to ask about a front roller modification to this mower. Wouldn't the roller press down the grass before the blades cut them? Is this something I should think about doing?


----------



## SGrabs33

B MAN said:


> I'm new to the forum as well as one just starting out with a McLane mower. It was a freebie so what do I have to lose right? Anyway, I think I need to sharpen the blades and do whatever else is needed, especially on the bedknife(?). Any suggestions as to what needs to be done first and what not to do is appreciated.


Welcome! Free mower is always good.

The reel doesn't have a relief grind on it anymore. I would try and find someone around you that can grind it with an added relief angle so that you can properly maintain it with backlapping for a number of seasons.


----------



## quadmasta

ShadowGuy said:


> Does anyone know how tell if this reel is worth saving? It's a 10 blade I just brought home off a non-running machine I bought for parts. I currently have a 7 blade and cut at 5/8.


The reel is harder than the bed knife so it'll outlast several bed knives. Do you have a better picture of the side of the mower opposite the drive chain to show the position of the adjustment bolts?


----------



## quadmasta

B MAN said:


> I'm new to the forum as well as one just starting out with a McLane mower. It was a freebie so what do I have to lose right? Anyway, I think I need to sharpen the blades and do whatever else is needed, especially on the bedknife(?). Any suggestions as to what needs to be done first and what not to do is appreciated.


Your bed knife looks end of life. You should get a new one before you do anything to the reel.


----------



## Khs2424

I live in Central Alabama and have a McLane 20". Does anyone know where I can take it to have it serviced? Mainly adjusting the blade and/or bed knife. I backlapped a while back and ever since then it just will not cut evenly. I have adjusted everything I know to adjust and I just can't seem to get it right. And, at this point, I've probably done more harm than good.


----------



## TigerKnight

Khs2424 said:


> I live in Central Alabama and have a McLane 20". Does anyone know where I can take it to have it serviced? Mainly adjusting the blade and/or bed knife. I backlapped a while back and ever since then it just will not cut evenly. I have adjusted everything I know to adjust and I just can't seem to get it right. And, at this point, I've probably done more harm than good.


I know it's a drive, but Reel Works in Auburn, GA is a GREAT place to have this service done.

I would recommend reaching out to a superintendent of a local golf course.


----------



## TigerKnight

I am almost done with the Predator 212cc engine swap on my 20 inch 7-blade - just need to put the bed knife and reel guard back on.

The only remaining issue is the pull lever to activate the drive wheel. It works great when engaged, but it does not fully disengage when let go. The level drops, but the reel and drive wheels stop/go intermittently unless I shove the handle down. The mower did this before the engine swap.

Does anyone know how to resolve this? I tried to adjust the nut on the bar, but I don't think it is really doing anything.

Thanks!


----------



## MarkV

TigerKnight said:


> Does anyone know how to resolve this? I tried to adjust the nut on the bar, but I don't think it is really doing anything.


May I suggest the Motor Replacement Thread.

I've ended up going to a .5" X 21". I did get the stock 19.5" belt to work but a longer belt works better in my opinion.


----------



## Dlmartin1984

This may have been addressed in the past, though I couldn't find it. 
Has anyone noticed that the HOC seems to be lower than what the manual states when you switch from the stock front wheels, to the reel roller?

Anyone else notice this? If yes, what's the height difference?


----------



## quadmasta

The HOC in the manual is off as soon as the bed knife wears or any of the bearings get sloppy. Stick a steel rule or a level between your roller and the rear wheel (not the drive wheels) and measure it. Make sure you're measuring with forward pressure on the roller or it'll be off there too.


----------



## B MAN

My McLane 25 runs me ragged. I have to lower the throttle speed to keep up with it but that reduces the spin rate of the blades. What must I do to keep my mower from being a Run-Around-Sue?


----------



## ShadowGuy

quadmasta said:


> ShadowGuy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know how tell if this reel is worth saving? It's a 10 blade I just brought home off a non-running machine I bought for parts. I currently have a 7 blade and cut at 5/8.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The reel is harder than the bed knife so it'll outlast several bed knives. Do you have a better picture of the side of the mower opposite the drive chain to show the position of the adjustment bolts?
Click to expand...

@quadmasta

What do you think?


----------



## quadmasta

Knife is shot, reel can probably be relief ground


----------



## ShadowGuy

quadmasta said:


> Knife is shot, reel can probably be relief ground


Thanks


----------



## SGrabs33

B MAN said:


> My McLane 25 runs me ragged. I have to lower the throttle speed to keep up with it but that reduces the spin rate of the blades. What must I do to keep my mower from being a Run-Around-Sue?


If your slowing the walking speed the reel does not have to spin so fast either. They are geared together to spin the reel as fast as it's needed fir the ground speed.


----------



## SOLARSUPLEX

For those of you that own a mclane and mow between .5" and 1" - would you suggest it for others? I've hit the limit of my manual reel in terms of height and looking at picking up something powered. Mclane pop up on offerup frequently, but im weary to get it and be disappointed.


----------



## Wiley

SOLARSUPLEX said:


> For those of you that own a mclane and mow between .5" and 1" - would you suggest it for others? I've hit the limit of my manual reel in terms of height and looking at picking up something powered. Mclane pop up on offerup frequently, but im weary to get it and be disappointed.


I was using a manual reel on a little 600sq ft spot and recently started using a Mclane this season and I'm pretty pleased. I've been cutting between .5 and .75. I think it's a good gateway reel and I'd make the purchase again. One of the benefits I enjoy is being able to get a decent cut in a single pass. With the manual reel sometimes I would need to do 3-4 multi directional passes for a good cut.


----------



## SOLARSUPLEX

Wiley said:


> SOLARSUPLEX said:
> 
> 
> 
> For those of you that own a mclane and mow between .5" and 1" - would you suggest it for others? I've hit the limit of my manual reel in terms of height and looking at picking up something powered. Mclane pop up on offerup frequently, but im weary to get it and be disappointed.
> 
> 
> 
> I was using a manual reel on a little 600sq ft spot and recently started using a Mclane this season and I'm pretty pleased. I've been cutting between .5 and .75. I think it's a good gateway reel and I'd make the purchase again. One of the benefits I enjoy is being able to get a decent cut in a single pass. With the manual reel sometimes I would need to do 3-4 multi directional passes for a good cut.
Click to expand...

This is my exact situation. Same size, multiple passes, takes a good 30 minutes of running all over the place to get a good even cut with the manual reel. Thanks for your vote of confidence. I'll continue looking for one.


----------



## smcguinness

Anyone have this happen to the drive lever? I noticed it had been wearing down and it finally broke through last night.

Before I go buy another I wanted to try and keep it from happening again.


----------



## TigerKnight

I was adjusting my reel to bedknife to where it cuts paper. However, when I start the more up and let it spin for ~30 seconds it seems the alignment comes slightly and the reel has too much contact to the bedknife. It also makes an unpleasant squeaking sound. Everything is tightened up.

Any ideas on what to look for / adjustments tips?

My reel was recently sharpened with a relief grind (by Reel Works).


----------



## Spammage

TigerKnight said:


> I was adjusting my reel to bedknife to where it cuts paper. However, when I start the more up and let it spin for ~30 seconds it seems the alignment comes slightly and the reel has too much contact to the bedknife. It also makes an unpleasant squeaking sound. Everything is tightened up.
> 
> Any ideas on what to look for / adjustments tips?
> 
> My reel was recently sharpened with a relief grind (by Reel Works).


Sounds like too much contact. The blade and bedknife will heat up and expand, increasing contact even more. This means loosening it off, or continuing with your backlapping.


----------



## trojandnc

Adrian82 said:


> Hello All,
> I just used my McLane for the first time in a dew years. Fresh grind, new chains and belt. The 5 wheels arent new, but arent too bad. I tuned the engine to 3600 rpm give or take a few. The machine moves extremely slow when compared to my PGM 22 or C27. My other two machines pull me wheras I am ready to push the Mclane to move faster. Any ideas on what may be the issue?
> 
> 3.5 Honda Commercial Engine


Did you ever get a response to this? I am having a similar issue.


----------



## Langley

Is the Honda GX160 a direct swap or does some modification need to be done simulator to the Predator swap.


----------



## dlhoulton

Hello everyone, New member here.
I have a McLane 25", 7 blade reel mower that I bought new last year. It has been a blast using it. I've learned to do maintenance on it and have bought the kit and learned to back lap the reel. I've been using 80 grit compound and have back lapped the reel several times last season and once this year. I noticed during one of my inspections on the bed knife has some wear to it. I would consider it "excessive" wear. I think that my back lapping and reel to bed knife adjustment caused this. So I ordered a new bed knife and installed it this week. It was a piece of cake to install. I noticed though when adjusting the reel to bed knife that it would cut a single piece of typing paper on both left and right side but not in the middle. I rechecked my instalment of the bed knife and every thing seems right. I rechecked my adjustment of reel and bed knife and it still only cuts a single piece of paper on both left and right but not in the middle. It does cut grass well and seems to be cutting grass with the entire reel, but after a day or so I notice small brown grass stalks. Today I decided to back lap the reel but this time switch to 120 grit compound. Everything went well but it still only cuts a single piece of typing paper on both left and right side but not in the middle. It will however attempt to cut two pieces of typing paper in middle of the reel, but not all the way. I talked to the local "Greens Keeper" and he said that some reel mowers will develop a "Barrel shape" to the reel. It seems mine has developed a micro "Hour Glass" shape. My question is, have I done harm to my reel due to my using the 80 grit compound and adjusting my reel to bed knife adjustment? It seems the "Hour Glass" shape of the reel is very, very slight and I wondering with the new bed knife and use of 120 grit compound and cutting the lawn the reel will grind itself out of the "Hour Glass" shape?!! Any help of advise will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## MadMike

trojandnc said:


> Adrian82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello All,
> I just used my McLane for the first time in a dew years. Fresh grind, new chains and belt. The 5 wheels arent new, but arent too bad. I tuned the engine to 3600 rpm give or take a few. The machine moves extremely slow when compared to my PGM 22 or C27. My other two machines pull me wheras I am ready to push the Mclane to move faster. Any ideas on what may be the issue?
> 
> 3.5 Honda Commercial Engine
> 
> 
> 
> Did you ever get a response to this? I am having a similar issue.
Click to expand...

 I had the opposite issue. I went from a 2-1/2" engine pulley down to 2". I felt like I was running to keep up. 
That solved my problem...


----------



## chalmeidajr

Hi all,

New forum member here. Nice to e-meet everyone!

I've got a McLane GR25. I've raised the front setting to the highest setting (1.5 inches according to the manual), as that's the HOC I'd like to keep my new Zeon Zoysia sod at. However, the back of my mower is now super uneven. I am not very mechanically savvy but I can't, for the life of me, figure out how to adjust the Back Wheel setting to match the front roller setting.

According to the manual, the back wheel came in with the middle setting, but if I do what I did (raise the mower to the highest setting), I need to also change the back wheel to align.

Has anyone every needed to do this? If so, can I please get some help figuring this out? Pictures and videos are super appreciated!

TIA!


----------



## SGrabs33

chalmeidajr said:


> Hi all,
> 
> New forum member here. Nice to e-meet everyone!
> 
> I've got a McLane GR25. I've raised the front setting to the highest setting (1.5 inches according to the manual), as that's the HOC I'd like to keep my new Zeon Zoysia sod at. However, the back of my mower is now super uneven. I am not very mechanically savvy but I can't, for the life of me, figure out how to adjust the Back Wheel setting to match the front roller setting.
> 
> According to the manual, the back wheel came in with the middle setting, but if I do what I did (raise the mower to the highest setting), I need to also change the back wheel to align.
> 
> Has anyone every needed to do this? If so, can I please get some help figuring this out? Pictures and videos are super appreciated!
> 
> TIA!


Welcome to the forum! Another NCer!

I don't think the rear axle needs to be moved as that is a pretty involved process. Usually there are just two settings(holes) on the front roller that are used to adjust the height of cut.

How is the back uneven? Just from front to back? Or from side to side?

All reels are going to have the front to back uneven based on what height of cut setting the mower is put in. That is normal.

Share some pictures of what your talking of I'm not understanding correctly!


----------



## csl23

I have a 25in 7 blade mclane with front roller and I've been noticing some hard lines on the edges of my cut as well small areas about the width of the rear wheels where it almost appears to be cutting lower. I would like to achieve a smoother look across the entire pass. Anyone have experience with this? The grass is tifway419


----------



## Mharvey

Hi Everyone
The clutch drive chain keeps popping off my 25 " mclane mower the other day. It seems very loose. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to tighten that up?


----------



## ShadowGuy

Mharvey said:


> Hi Everyone
> The clutch drive chain keeps popping off my 25 " mclane mower the other day. It seems very loose. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to tighten that up?


Chains stretch, time to replace.


----------



## SGrabs33

Mharvey said:


> Hi Everyone
> The clutch drive chain keeps popping off my 25 " mclane mower the other day. It seems very loose. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to tighten that up?


Agreed. You should just replace as a lose chain could lead to excess wear of sprockets.

If one chain is stretched the other probably are also. I'd buy 10ft of chain on amazon and a chain breaker and replace them all.

Just match the number of links on the old chain to the number of links on the new chain your cutting. The new one will be shorter because it's not stretched but it should fit well.

I think most Mclane chains are #41


----------



## J_carp1223

Any input on removing the reel of a 25" McLane? I've checked around and can't seem to find any breakdown of the process of removing it (I very well could have overlooked a similar question on this forum, if so, I apologize). I'm trying to see if the ball bearings on the reel need replaced. Any help would be appreciated!


----------



## itsmejson

I've got a weird sound with my mclane, which started after I nicked a rock noticing that it is getting extremely loud.

Anyone know what might be the cause or have any of you experienced this sound?

https://youtube.com/shorts/e62glj-Xuh4?feature=share


----------



## SGrabs33

itsmejson said:


> I've got a weird sound with my mclane, which started after I nicked a rock noticing that it is getting extremely loud.
> 
> Anyone know what might be the cause or have any of you experienced this sound?
> 
> https://youtube.com/shorts/e62glj-Xuh4?feature=share


Yep that's going to be a high spot on the reel because you hit a rock. Is there a gouge in the blade or bedknife. Simple backlapping should help a lot.


----------



## barky sparky

Hi All,
Please see my picture with arrow points to the clip, can someone tell me what this for? I cannot find anything it engages to.
Thank you,


----------



## itsmejson

SGrabs33 said:


> itsmejson said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a weird sound with my mclane, which started after I nicked a rock noticing that it is getting extremely loud.
> 
> Anyone know what might be the cause or have any of you experienced this sound?
> 
> https://youtube.com/shorts/e62glj-Xuh4?feature=share
> 
> 
> 
> Yep that's going to be a high spot on the reel because you hit a rock. Is there a gouge in the blade or bedknife. Simple backlapping should help a lot.
Click to expand...

Yes there is a gouge in the bedknife. I need to look again if there is anything on the reel.


----------



## SGrabs33

barky sparky said:


> Hi All,
> Please see my picture with arrow points to the clip, can someone tell me what this for? I cannot find anything it engages to.
> Thank you,


Looks like it's what's left of the belt guard. The metal probably snapped and left that small piece. I've had it happen before.


----------



## barky sparky

The picture i posted was from youtube which I found it had exactly like mine. Mine is no snapped or broke from the guard like you said. It is very well contructed. At first i tried to put it other side of the holder, i thought it was for stopping the return of tensioner. But it did not work, and caused return of tension not completed. I search for part lists and found nothing related. If you have the original belt guard, can you post its picture, so i can compare to see if that snapped off.
Thank you


----------



## barky sparky

The picture i posted was from youtube which I found it had exactly like mine. Mine is no snapped or broke from the guard like you said. It is very well contructed. At first i tried to put it other side of the holder, i thought it was for stopping the return of tensioner. But it did not work, and caused return of tension not completed. I search for part lists and found nothing related. If you have the original belt guard, can you post its picture, so i can compare to see if that snapped off.
Thank you


----------



## SGrabs33

@barky sparky a belt guard like this.


----------



## barky sparky

Thank you now i realize that is actually belt guard broken off. I will make new one. 
Thanks everyone replied


----------



## trojandnc

smcguinness said:


> Anyone have this happen to the drive lever? I noticed it had been wearing down and it finally broke through last night.
> 
> Before I go buy another I wanted to try and keep it from happening again.


If that's the so-called "deadman's handle" then it's likely that it probably lasted nearly 20 years so I wouldn't worry too much about a replacement breaking anytime soon.


----------



## BigBoxLawn

For everyone using a Mcclane with a front roller. How do you go about scalping with the grass collector? The darn things rests on the roller even at 1 inch. The right side piles up grass so quick it all just falls out. I end up having to stop and clear that one side nearly every single pass or less.

If I scalp without the catcher, will a rotary pick up the clippings even if the grass is at .5??


----------



## Jmar

Same here got it for 150 bucks on offer up. will backlapping actually sharpen the blade or do I need to send it out to get sharpened?


----------



## mwoody58

I recently purchased a McLane GR25. I'm under the impression that the clutch and drive mechanisms operate independent of each other. If the reel is engaged and the drive is disengaged is it normal for the drive wheels to turn continuously ?


----------



## csl23

mwoody58 said:


> I recently purchased a McLane GR25. I'm under the impression that the clutch and drive mechanisms operate independent of each other. If the reel is engaged and the drive is disengaged is it normal for the drive wheels to turn continuously ?


Drive wheel always spins regardless if it's up or down. Reel and drive wheel spin together. When it's up you can still manually push mower to cut in tight spots


----------



## mwoody58

Thank you cs123. After an exhaustive search online yesterday I found a video that also confirms your answer.


----------



## rustycage24

I have a McLane 20" and my drive pivot spring just broke for the second time since I've owned it. Anyone know how to put it on the right way? Each time it's broken at the frame.


----------



## rustycage24

BigBoxLawn said:


> For everyone using a Mcclane with a front roller. How do you go about scalping with the grass collector? The darn things rests on the roller even at 1 inch. The right side piles up grass so quick it all just falls out. I end up having to stop and clear that one side nearly every single pass or less.
> 
> If I scalp without the catcher, will a rotary pick up the clippings even if the grass is at .5??


Same here. I adjusted the angle and it still loaded up on the right side for me too. A rotary mower will pick up the clippings though. The little piles left over from the catcher overflow will throw back in too. I scalped mine to .25" in the early spring and my rider picked it up just fine.


----------



## rustycage24

trojandnc said:


> smcguinness said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have this happen to the drive lever? I noticed it had been wearing down and it finally broke through last night.
> 
> Before I go buy another I wanted to try and keep it from happening again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If that's the so-called "deadman's handle" then it's likely that it probably lasted nearly 20 years so I wouldn't worry too much about a replacement breaking anytime soon.
Click to expand...

I was almost in the same position but caught mine before it broke. I just had to replace the handle, drive pivot rod and drive control rod bc of it. When the handle came in I noticed it has washers mine didn't have. Figure the previous owner lost them or it just didn't come with it (2016 McLane 20" 7 blade).


----------



## timfore

Have a new Mclane 20". Mower made a loud sound like I hit something, which I didn't. There was nothing in sight. Then it sounded like the blade was hitting the bed knife so I shut it off. Blade was not hitting the bedknife. Waited a few minutes and started it up again. After mower for a few minutes the same exact thing happened. I am clueless to what is making the noise. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Mattopb3

Any suggestions on what's causing this? I measured the bestknife height it's set to 1" any other suggestions on where to look? The reel to bed knife has been backlapped


----------



## KurtD10

I have a 5 reel McLane and I'm looking to get a backlapping kit for it to sharpen myself. Does anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## Mattopb3

KurtD10 said:


> I have a 5 reel McLane and I'm looking to get a backlapping kit for it to sharpen myself. Does anyone have any suggestions?


I purchased the reel rollers backlapping kit


----------



## SGrabs33

@Mattopb3 ever done any leveling. I know a lot of people this happens to. Think it's just unlevel ground underneath turf.


----------



## csl23

SGrabs33 said:


> @Mattopb3 ever done any leveling. I know a lot of people this happens to. Think it's just unlevel ground underneath turf.


I get the same thing. I'm starting to think it's a leveling issue as well


----------



## Mattopb3

csl23 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Mattopb3 ever done any leveling. I know a lot of people this happens to. Think it's just unlevel ground underneath turf.
> 
> 
> 
> I get the same thing. I'm starting to think it's a leveling issue as well
Click to expand...

I leveled the yard before I laid the SOD next march/ April I was planning on scalping the yard and ordering 4 yards of sand so spread across roughly 3k sqft but I find this weird to happen across the entire yard not just in isolated areas


----------



## Dlmartin1984

I'm looking to switch out the reel on my 25" McLane to a new reel. I have essentially gotten everything off except the sprocket holding the reel on to one side.

Anyone have an idea on how to remove this sprocket?


----------



## SGrabs33

Dlmartin1984 said:


> I'm looking to switch out the reel on my 25" McLane to a new reel. I have essentially gotten everything off except the sprocket holding the reel on to one side.
> 
> Anyone have an idea on how to remove this sprocket?


Set screw on the sprocket. Loosen it. Then you will have to use something like a bearing puller most likely to get it off if it's been on there a while.


----------



## Dlmartin1984

SGrabs33 said:


> Dlmartin1984 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm looking to switch out the reel on my 25" McLane to a new reel. I have essentially gotten everything off except the sprocket holding the reel on to one side.
> 
> Anyone have an idea on how to remove this sprocket?
> 
> 
> 
> Set screw on the sprocket. Loosen it. Then you will have to use something like a bearing puller most likely to get it off if it's been on there a while.
Click to expand...

I've tried turning the set screw with the correct Allen wrench, basically stripped it. I hit it with wd-40 and still nothing at this point.

I can't believe there isn't a video of this somewhere out there.


----------



## Reel_noob281

Hi everyone,

I bought a used 20", 7 blade McLane mower about a month ago. Things were fine until two days ago. The engine died while I was mowing the lawn and now I can't get the mower to start. It has a 2014 Briggs and Stratton engine. The gas tank is filled. I read from the manual that the engine stops if there isn't enough oil. I unscrewed the oil cap and the liquid smells like gasoline. Is it time to get a new engine? Any suggestions would be great. I'm a noob and not very mechanically inclined. Thanks.


----------



## Dlmartin1984

Sharing for folks who are looking to buy a used McLane reel mower. Two biggest questions are how are the bed knife and reel. Most expensive too replace.

So I thought I'd share some angles of a new reel vs. old reel.

New reel. Edges on the blades are obviously crisp and sharp.





Old reel. You can see the blades are absolutely flat. No amount of ************ will change this.


----------



## luberconn

Has anyone mounted a honda GC160 motor on their McLane? A local is selling a 20" in great shape. has a B&S 3.5hp, but he lost gas tank. I've looked everywhere for that particular gas tank. Can't find one. Anyhow, seller is asking $100 and another local is selling a rebuilt honda gc160 for $60. Seen a couple of tru cuts with gc160, but no Mclane's. Just wanted to make sure other than larger shaft/pulley, that there are no known obstacles. Any info helps. Thanks!


----------



## orangeokie

dlhoulton said:


> Hello everyone, New member here.
> I have a McLane 25", 7 blade reel mower that I bought new last year. It has been a blast using it. I've learned to do maintenance on it and have bought the kit and learned to back lap the reel. I've been using 80 grit compound and have back lapped the reel several times last season and once this year. I noticed during one of my inspections on the bed knife has some wear to it. I would consider it "excessive" wear. I think that my back lapping and reel to bed knife adjustment caused this. So I ordered a new bed knife and installed it this week. It was a piece of cake to install. I noticed though when adjusting the reel to bed knife that it would cut a single piece of typing paper on both left and right side but not in the middle. I rechecked my instalment of the bed knife and every thing seems right. I rechecked my adjustment of reel and bed knife and it still only cuts a single piece of paper on both left and right but not in the middle. It does cut grass well and seems to be cutting grass with the entire reel, but after a day or so I notice small brown grass stalks. Today I decided to back lap the reel but this time switch to 120 grit compound. Everything went well but it still only cuts a single piece of typing paper on both left and right side but not in the middle. It will however attempt to cut two pieces of typing paper in middle of the reel, but not all the way. I talked to the local "Greens Keeper" and he said that some reel mowers will develop a "Barrel shape" to the reel. It seems mine has developed a micro "Hour Glass" shape. My question is, have I done harm to my reel due to my using the 80 grit compound and adjusting my reel to bed knife adjustment? It seems the "Hour Glass" shape of the reel is very, very slight and I wondering with the new bed knife and use of 120 grit compound and cutting the lawn the reel will grind itself out of the "Hour Glass" shape?!! Any help of advise will be greatly appreciated.


Have you tried folding your paper strip in half (increasing thickness by 100%) and see if the middle part of the bed knife cuts it? I've seen that recommended on some youtube videos on back lapping.


----------



## orangeokie

sm120mph said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sm120mph said:
> 
> 
> 
> I tried the top hole it did not work I think my best bet is to get a new front roller that is smaller then the one that came with the mower,but I am game to try anything to get the bed knife at .75"
> 
> 
> 
> My customer confirmed that he can now adjust from about 1/2" to 2.5" now with the new roller from @Reelrollers :thumbup:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It worked I received my new roller from reelrollers and I now have a hoc at .75" and up, Thank you for your help.I am still pissed off that the web site I went to https://store.coronamaxtools.com/25mcgrremo.html says that this mower will cut as low as .75" and the paper work that came with the mower says it will cut as low as .75" but it will not!!! it will cut your lawn at 1" all day long.The manger or the owner not sure I talk to will never say that the mower will cut at .75" he told me all kinds of bull like what time of day I cut the grass,what kind of grass I cut,told me how no one uses the hoc dial indicator anymore,how many mowers they are selling,but will never say if the mower will cut the grass at .75".
> Thank you again for your help with my mower.
> Scott M.
Click to expand...

According to "Doc" the GR series mower, sold by Dolphin Power Equipment, will not cut at 1/2 inch with the GR series roller. This video shows how he put on the smaller diameter Reel Roller front roller on it to drop the HOC down to 1/2 inch. At the 3:45 mark he flat out says that GR model will cut from 3/4 of an inch to 1.5 in.


----------



## Cherokee_Bermuda

Anybody had issues with their rear drive chain and popping the chain? I replaced the 41 chain earlier this season and It keeps popping the master link in the middle of mowing. I've tried adjusting the rear wheel to take out slack, the chain is new, and I am going through master links like crazy. Anybody else ever had this problem?


----------



## James101

Mattopb3 said:


> Any suggestions on what's causing this? I measured the bestknife height it's set to 1" any other suggestions on where to look? The reel to bed knife has been backlapped


I have the exact same issue... Has anyone replied to this or able to help! Mine was fine than all off a sudden it started doing it. When i put a level on the roller or across the front it shows the Right side to be lower, but i don't know what to do to fix.

Wondering the somehow the roller is bent or if there is a way to raise the roller on one side?


----------



## Lawndry List

How hard is it to replace the belt? Looking to pick this one up tomorrow for $150

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/534066484553846


----------



## ShadowGuy

Lawndry List said:


> How hard is it to replace the belt? Looking to pick this one up tomorrow for $150
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/534066484553846


It's not hard to replace the belt. All of a few minutes. I wonder why they have not replaced it. It is cheap and easy. For such an old machine that looks so clean, I wonder why.

From the pictures, I can't see if there is anything else missing or damaged where the belt goes, so keep that in mind.


----------



## Jerry_G

Lawndry List said:


> How hard is it to replace the belt? Looking to pick this one up tomorrow for $150
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/534066484553846


Cotter pin for clutch lever, 13mm on the belt guard, remove dead man spring (replace along w belt, they're $7-$10). Belt comes right off once spring is off and bracket hinged out of way.
Replaced one tonight, mid mow.


----------



## Lawndry List

Jerry_G said:


> Lawndry List said:
> 
> 
> 
> How hard is it to replace the belt? Looking to pick this one up tomorrow for $150
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/534066484553846
> 
> 
> 
> Cotter pin for clutch lever, 13mm on the belt guard, remove dead man spring (replace along w belt, they're $7-$10). Belt comes right off once spring is off and bracket hinged out of way.
> Replaced one tonight, mid mow.
Click to expand...

Appreciate the help fellas. Think I'm going to pull the trigger on this one & add the belt. Is it worth adding the dead man clutch?


----------



## kc8qpu092200

Make sure you check the clutch tension and adjust as needed.


----------



## j0hnclarke

Does anyone have directions on replacing the smooth rear tires/wheels on a Mclane 20"?


----------



## kc8qpu092200

j0hnclarke said:


> Does anyone have directions on replacing the smooth rear tires/wheels on a Mclane 20"?


It sucks. I did mine earlier this year. I don't remember any particular steps. I just started taking stuff apart.


----------



## Sonoran Desert Lawn

Two 17" manual McLane mowers here. How do I backlap a 17" mower?

I tried making a wood adapter but the torque split the wood after a few rotations.


----------



## Cherokee_Bermuda

j0hnclarke said:


> Does anyone have directions on replacing the smooth rear tires/wheels on a Mclane 20"?


I replaced the five tires earlier this year. Taking it apart was not overly difficult. Takes pics as you go, it helped me remember the order and where washers come from. To get the tires off of the inner tube, I used a flathead screwdriver and slowly pried each of them up and off. The new tires initially did not fit, too tight to get over the tube. I soaked them in bucket of hot water with some dish soap in it. After about five minutes they slid on perfectly. When putting it all back together, feeding the long bolts through the inner tube and aligning with the holes was the most tedious part. I'm glad I did it, I never realized how back the traction was on my old tires until I replaced. You can do it!


----------



## j0hnclarke

Thanks for the support. I finished replacing the outer smooth tires on my 20" Mclane (~1995 vintage 10 blade red commercial with B&S). The basic steps were: remove chains, remove the 3x2 bolts attaching the axle supports to the mower deck, loosened the 1x2 bolts that keep tension on the support brackets, removed the 4x2 nuts holding the bearing plates to the side frame, pulled the axle out, removed the non-gear side wheel and replaced with Saidco rubber tire, did not remove the opposite tire to replace the tire because I could not remove the gear. Reassembled in reverse. Mower is as good as new. I plan on selling the mower now, I bought a barely used Tru-Cut P-20 with a Honda GX120. I love the P-20, especially the adjustable speed feature and the ease/range of HOC adjustment.


----------



## j0hnclarke

I have a lot of slack in the chains on my ~1995 Mclane red commercial 10 blade. The outside chain is wearing groves in the outside cover support brackets. Is it as simple as buying replacement chains, or do I need to replace the sprockets as well?


----------



## j0hnclarke

BTW, the sprockets are hard to remove.


----------



## Lawndry List

Found this on Marketplace, she's willing to go to $150. Not many for sale in my area, wondering if this is worth it.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/534066484553846/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A18679bd0-c447-45f4-8983-4fab5d77b514


----------



## Jerry_G

Lawndry List said:


> Found this on Marketplace, she's willing to go to $150. Not many for sale in my area, wondering if this is worth it.
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/534066484553846/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A18679bd0-c447-45f4-8983-4fab5d77b514


I'd keep looking if I were you. Seller wont change a belt to make it operable, but they sure put a fresh coat of paint everywhere including some nice overspray and masking to peel off 

Stay patient and find a nice 7 or 10blade over the winter. I have a 20in w briggs and that's a loud little motor, even w the hush tone muffler. I mostly ever use my 25in mclane a the honda engine, that's what I'd look for.


----------



## Mattopb3

The 2 adjustable bolts for reel adjustment are almost bottomed out. Does this mean I'll need a new bed knife and or a reel soon?


----------



## rockwalltxguy

So I just bought a 25" McLane. I have Bermuda so we are entering dormancy. I don't plan on using the Reel Mower until after it's scalped next year. I unpacked and put the mower together but it doesn't come with oil obviously. My question is should I just leave it here without oil or fuel until Spring or is it ok to put the oil in and put just enough fuel to crank it and make sure it runs ok. Then burn off all the fuel?


----------



## Lawndry List

When I drop my drive bar, nothing happens as far as changes in the wheels going up or down. Same when I bring the lever up. I tried raising them by loosening the bolt and shimmed underneath the wheels. Tightened it back and still nothing. Am I missing something / anyone had the same issue?


----------



## Reel-Works

rockwalltxguy said:


> So I just bought a 25" McLane. I have Bermuda so we are entering dormancy. I don't plan on using the Reel Mower until after it's scalped next year. I unpacked and put the mower together but it doesn't come with oil obviously. My question is should I just leave it here without oil or fuel until Spring or is it ok to put the oil in and put just enough fuel to crank it and make sure it runs ok. Then burn off all the fuel?


You can put oil and fuel in the machine and check it out. It won't hurt it at all, when you do run all the fuel out …. Next year when you put more in the tank and crank it up the motor may surge just a little bit because of air in the lines but, it will work itself out.


----------



## rockwalltxguy

Reel-Works said:


> rockwalltxguy said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I just bought a 25" McLane. I have Bermuda so we are entering dormancy. I don't plan on using the Reel Mower until after it's scalped next year. I unpacked and put the mower together but it doesn't come with oil obviously. My question is should I just leave it here without oil or fuel until Spring or is it ok to put the oil in and put just enough fuel to crank it and make sure it runs ok. Then burn off all the fuel?
> 
> 
> 
> You can put oil and fuel in the machine and check it out. It won't hurt it at all, when you do run all the fuel out …. Next year when you put more in the tank and crank it up the motor may surge just a little bit because of air in the lines but, it will work itself out.
Click to expand...

Awesome thanks for the info.


----------



## RentalLawn

Lawndry List said:


> When I drop my drive bar, nothing happens as far as changes in the wheels going up or down. Same when I bring the lever up. I tried raising them by loosening the bolt and shimmed underneath the wheels. Tightened it back and still nothing. Am I missing something / anyone had the same issue?


Sounds like you have an improperly adjusted rear drive wheel. Or no drive chain? Refer to this video, maybe?


----------



## rockwalltxguy

So I used my brand new Mclane 25" for the 1st time today. Still getting used to it but one thing I noticed is that I can't get the throttle to stay in the forward (fast) position once it's started without holding it down. Am I doing something wrong? It slowly moves it's way back into the the upward position. In the image below it's my understanding that once started I should be able to keep the throttle in this downward position.


----------



## csl23

Somethings not right. It should stay down. A spring may be missing or disconnected down by the engine where you can control the throttle


----------



## rockwalltxguy

csl23 said:


> Somethings not right. It should stay down. A spring may be missing or disconnected down by the engine where you can control the throttle


Nothing seems to be missing or disconnected. Not sure if anyone can tell from this picture or not.


----------



## rockwalltxguy

Figured it out, thank god for YouTube. Simple half turn of this nut and the throttle stays put.


----------



## csl23

Good stuff


----------



## ShadowGuy

I am about done with a complete teardown of an '88 Mclane. I believe I am down to the most difficult part of the tear down of the rear axel.

It looks like I probably need to replace the bearings on the axel that support the deck. Question for on the bearing. How do they stay located on the axel. It appears the bearing have sleeve spacer on the outsides of each bearing. What keeps it located on the inside between the bearing and the sprockets. Are there spacers there as well?

The bearing next to the small sprocket does not slide side to side, but the bearing on other side can slide side to side 1/2". Is that normal? Is there supposed to be spacers between those bearings and the sprockets?

I am wanting to take this all apart to clean and paint. Is there any good way to remove these bearings? The set screws on the sprockets are all rusted tight. Any suggestions on that?

This one does not slide:



This one slides:


----------



## rockwalltxguy

Ok I went to backlap and took my chain off like I was supposed to and now for the life of me can't get it back on. Any tips or pointers to fix this? I've tried everything I can think of to no avail yet.


----------



## Wiley

rockwalltxguy said:


> Ok I went to backlap and took my chain off like I was supposed to and now for the life of me can't get it back on. Any tips or pointers to fix this? I've tried everything I can think of to no avail yet.


Are you having trouble getting the retainer clip seated on the master link? You should be able to use a bit of pressure with a flathead screwdriver. Maybe the retainer clip is bent?


----------



## itsmejson

rockwalltxguy said:


> Ok I went to backlap and took my chain off like I was supposed to and now for the life of me can't get it back on. Any tips or pointers to fix this? I've tried everything I can think of to no avail yet.


I ran into the same issue when *********** my mclane for the first time. Try rotating the reel a little at a time. There is a spot where there is enough clearance to link the chain together.


----------



## williams6966

I'm interested in getting an old style craftsman/McLane mower but only have a car. My question is can the handle up top easily/quickly be taken apart for transport? I don't want to be tinkering in someone's driveway too long like I own the place after purchasing lol


----------



## lonnielove

I really would do it in a car, trust me I know..lol😂🤣😂🤣


----------



## drjohnson3

New McClane owner (25GR) in Raleigh, NC area. Fresh out of the box, set-up completed and first cut attempts. Got a few lengths of lawn cut and suddenly the mower starts to make a "grinding" sound - seemingly on the left front side of the mower. Stopped to inspect and can't find anything obvious at all. Looked at all the reel blades and the horizontal blade (can't remember what it is called), and don't see any obvious interference. Anyone had a weird/random sound like that occur? Calling the Mothership tomorrow to see what they suggest, since it is technically under warranty. I really don't want to send it back, given the logistics to do so. Appreciate any inputs or related experiences.


----------



## SGrabs33

drjohnson3 said:


> New McClane owner (25GR) in Raleigh, NC area. Fresh out of the box, set-up completed and first cut attempts. Got a few lengths of lawn cut and suddenly the mower starts to make a "grinding" sound - seemingly on the left front side of the mower. Stopped to inspect and can't find anything obvious at all. Looked at all the reel blades and the horizontal blade (can't remember what it is called), and don't see any obvious interference. Anyone had a weird/random sound like that occur? Calling the Mothership tomorrow to see what they suggest, since it is technically under warranty. I really don't want to send it back, given the logistics to do so. Appreciate any inputs or related experiences.


Not sure what that would be. Can you spin the reel by hand with relative ease?

I'm in the Raleigh area and can take a peek sometime if you want me to. Should be able to figure it out rather quickly


----------



## drjohnson3

Thanks for the VERY quick response. Yes, I can move the reel blade assembly fairly easy. I don't think that is where the noise is coming from,
but I am new to this mower type, so I am not 100% knowledgeable of all the moving pieces yet. I will look at it again tomorrow to see if I can add any insight. Appreciate your willingness to help out - stay tuned.


----------



## drjohnson3

Quick "kuddos" to Scott (trianglereelmowers) here in Raleigh! Reached out to help me with a 'newbie' issue on my new McLane. Scott offered to come over to my house, check my mower out and ultimately addressed the issue that I was having - all within 12hours of my reach out
in this forum. Real nice guy and very knowledgeable. Don't hesitate to contact Scott if
you have a reel mower need!! I highly recommend Scott!!


----------



## SGrabs33

drjohnson3 said:


> Quick "kuddos" to Scott (trianglereelmowers) here in Raleigh! Reached out to help me with a 'newbie' issue on my new McLane. Scott offered to come over to my house, check my mower out and ultimately addressed the issue that I was having - all within 12hours of my reach out
> in this forum. Real nice guy and very knowledgeable. Don't hesitate to contact Scott if
> you have a reel mower need!! I highly recommend Scott!!


Thanks for the kind words! Was happy to help a fellow REEL Mower


----------



## zerocool0789

Have a couple of questions - found this 2007 McLane 20" on sale for $800 local to me.

1. I notice it doesn't have the typical McLane drive setup in the back and its just a roller - is that common on this model or was this custom? Can you buy a replacement roller like this one in case this one bites the dust?
2. Any concerns with the price? Owner says it runs and cuts well still and was regularly serviced.
3. Any other gotchas I need to look out for on this one?

Thanks all!


----------



## Spammage

That's their greensmower version, which I have in a 25". Super easy to use, but the height adjustment is like a professional greens mower and not as simple as the normal McClane, TruCut or CalTrimmer mowers. Be wary of the rear tires. When I bought mine there were some issues with the tires having lost their shape, so they had to be replaced. Two on a normal McClane wouldn't be bad, but 10 on my machine (maybe 8 for the 20") gets expensive quick.


----------



## ATXGinger

rockwalltxguy said:


> Figured it out, thank god for YouTube. Simple half turn of this nut and the throttle stays put.


Thanks for posting this answer. I'm having the same issue with mine.


----------



## zerocool0789

Spammage said:


> That's their greensmower version, which I have in a 25". Super easy to use, but the height adjustment is like a professional greens mower and not as simple as the normal McClane, TruCut or CalTrimmer mowers. Be wary of the rear tires. When I bought mine there were some issues with the tires having lost their shape, so they had to be replaced. Two on a normal McClane wouldn't be bad, but 10 on my machine (maybe 8 for the 20") gets expensive quick.


Thanks! I ended up picking it up yesterday and it looks like its in really good shape (the rear tires especially - no deformation on them). It definitely needs to be backlapped which I'll do shortly and the reel to bedknife isn't close enough its not cutting paper. Overall pretty happy with it - tested a small strip yesterday and even though its not cutting perfect right now it did pretty well.


----------



## gwest

These are the amended pages to the GR series Mclanes that come from Dolphin outdoors. They are quite faded copies and I will try to scan them when I have time. Note that Tik from Mclanes service department has little knowledge of these, at least from my experience.


----------



## itsmejson

Thx for the scans. I would love to drop the rear axle to the lower setting to achieve the .375 first for scalping but that looks like a ton of work.

Anyone have experience dropping the rear axle?


----------



## Jbarrera

Does anyone know what era of Mclane came with the red handle? 
I'm looking at a used one and owner states it's only been used once, looks new. When I look at any sites that sell them new they all have the yellow handle and red body. Only time I feel like I've seen a red handle are on older models.

I haven't asked for SN yet but I plan on it.

Thanks!!


----------



## Thisguy

Jbarrera said:


> Does anyone know what era of Mclane came with the red handle?
> I'm looking at a used one and owner states it's only been used once, looks new. When I look at any sites that sell them new they all have the yellow handle and red body. Only time I feel like I've seen a red handle are on older models.
> 
> I haven't asked for SN yet but I plan on it.
> 
> Thanks!!


Mine has an all red handle. It's a commercial (10 Blade)

My first Mclane had the standard yellow/red It was the standard homeowner model (7 blade)

Maybe that's why?


----------



## williams6966

Anyone have the link to the service manual online for the greenskeeper model?


----------



## williams6966

Reelrollers said:


> 17" and thats it. We'll send you ups tracking number in the am when it ships.


Do you guys make an adapter for backlapping a McLane greenskeeper model?


----------



## Kevin63

Question ! I have a brand new 25 inch Mclane with a smooth front roller from Reel Rollers after we have used it couple months on my bermuda and my son's we got to noticing that the supposed cutting height notches do not match the actual height it is cutting . He cut his yesterday evening with it set on 1/4 inch notch and to verify the height being incorrect he went back over it with our Toro 3150Q Greensmaster set on 1/2 it cut over a quarter inch more off of it 
We then tipped it back and used our accu guage on it from the rear wheels to the front roller and it was almost 9/16 so that tells me the height notch measurments are no where close to correct. The rear axle is set in the middle position like all the others I have seen my question is has anyone on here ever moved the rear axle up which would drop the rear down ? I have looked and it wont really be a big deal to do take some bolts out and install in different hole biggest thing I can see is have to take a link or two out of the main drive chain but will this get the cut height corrected.
I called Reel Rollers and ask them if they have ever run into this before and they told me that they were unaware of that much difference in the notch height and actual cutting height


----------



## The Lawn Care Rookie

*Need some help* - I did an engine swap on my McLane 20" (Briggs and Stratton to a Predator). Ever since the swap, I'm having issues with the reel spinning on the lawn. If I tilt it back it'll spin but not when it's on the lawn. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Bmossin

The Lawn Care Rookie said:


> *Need some help* - I did an engine swap on my McLane 20" (Briggs and Stratton to a Predator). Ever since the swap, I'm having issues with the reel spinning on the lawn. If I tilt it back it'll spin but not when it's on the lawn. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.


Check your belt and see if it is slipping. You may need to adjust the control rod that engages the belt.


----------



## rockwalltxguy

How difficult is it to change out the clutch belt? Mine crapped the bed this morning!


----------



## quadmasta

Kevin63 said:


> Question ! I have a brand new 25 inch Mclane with a smooth front roller from Reel Rollers after we have used it couple months on my bermuda and my son's we got to noticing that the supposed cutting height notches do not match the actual height it is cutting . He cut his yesterday evening with it set on 1/4 inch notch and to verify the height being incorrect he went back over it with our Toro 3150Q Greensmaster set on 1/2 it cut over a quarter inch more off of it
> We then tipped it back and used our accu guage on it from the rear wheels to the front roller and it was almost 9/16 so that tells me the height notch measurments are no where close to correct. The rear axle is set in the middle position like all the others I have seen my question is has anyone on here ever moved the rear axle up which would drop the rear down ? I have looked and it wont really be a big deal to do take some bolts out and install in different hole biggest thing I can see is have to take a link or two out of the main drive chain but will this get the cut height corrected.
> I called Reel Rollers and ask them if they have ever run into this before and they told me that they were unaware of that much difference in the notch height and actual cutting height


The measurements on the McLane parts are when equipped with McLane parts. You changed the front roller which likely changed the measurements.


----------



## quadmasta

rockwalltxguy said:


> How difficult is it to change out the clutch belt? Mine crapped the bed this morning!


You'll have to at least remove that belt guard, the cotter pin on the clutch rod, and remove the clutch rod from the deadman. Past that you may be able to wedge the new belt in there. If not you'll have to loosen and maybe remove the bolts on the deadman to get clearance to get the belt in there. When you've got stuff apart check the alignment of the faces of the pulleys with a straightedge and move the pulley on the crankshaft if they're not inline. If the one on the motor is cockeyed, you'll have to loosen the motor bolts, straighten it, then tighten them again. Misalignment of the pulleys will chew through belts and will cause extra stress on the bearings in the deadman idler. If that blows up you have to replace the whole damn thing.


----------



## girevik

Kevin63 said:


> Question ! I have a brand new 25 inch Mclane with a smooth front roller from Reel Rollers after we have used it couple months on my bermuda and my son's we got to noticing that the supposed cutting height notches do not match the actual height it is cutting . He cut his yesterday evening with it set on 1/4 inch notch and to verify the height being incorrect he went back over it with our Toro 3150Q Greensmaster set on 1/2 it cut over a quarter inch more off of it
> We then tipped it back and used our accu guage on it from the rear wheels to the front roller and it was almost 9/16 so that tells me the height notch measurments are no where close to correct. The rear axle is set in the middle position like all the others I have seen my question is has anyone on here ever moved the rear axle up which would drop the rear down ? I have looked and it wont really be a big deal to do take some bolts out and install in different hole biggest thing I can see is have to take a link or two out of the main drive chain but will this get the cut height corrected.
> I called Reel Rollers and ask them if they have ever run into this before and they told me that they were unaware of that much difference in the notch height and actual cutting height


Don't know the diameter of the Reel Roller but I can't imagine they are the same as factory wheels. Has to be at least 1"difference one diameter, that's your difference.


----------



## drjohnson3

So, still a newbie at this reel mower gig - maybe <8 cuts so far. After getting some help previously with back-lapping, mower cuts nice and clean. That included adjusting the blade to the bottom knife using the "paper cut" technique across the width of the blade. All that said, I can't seem to eliminate edge to edge height cutting difference - at least 1/4". Any ideas what else could cause this to occur?


----------



## quadmasta

Are the bearings in all your wheels okay?


----------



## drjohnson3

Not sure how to check that. Mower is brand new.


----------



## quadmasta

If it's brand new and cuts paper all the way across the bed knife something is big wrong


----------



## MarkV

The Lawn Care Rookie said:


> *Need some help* - I did an engine swap on my McLane 20" (Briggs and Stratton to a Predator). Ever since the swap, I'm having issues with the reel spinning on the lawn. If I tilt it back it'll spin but not when it's on the lawn. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.


I'm not saying I know what I'm doing, but I've done that swap twice now with a WRITE UP. Check that out and see if you find something you missed.


----------



## sundown2018

Can the sprocket on the jackshaft be replaced? Or do you have to replace the whole assembly with part #1053?


----------



## Kevin63

quadmasta said:


> Kevin63 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question ! I have a brand new 25 inch Mclane with a smooth front roller from Reel Rollers after we have used it couple months on my bermuda and my son's we got to noticing that the supposed cutting height notches do not match the actual height it is cutting . He cut his yesterday evening with it set on 1/4 inch notch and to verify the height being incorrect he went back over it with our Toro 3150Q Greensmaster set on 1/2 it cut over a quarter inch more off of it
> We then tipped it back and used our accu guage on it from the rear wheels to the front roller and it was almost 9/16 so that tells me the height notch measurments are no where close to correct. The rear axle is set in the middle position like all the others I have seen my question is has anyone on here ever moved the rear axle up which would drop the rear down ? I have looked and it wont really be a big deal to do take some bolts out and install in different hole biggest thing I can see is have to take a link or two out of the main drive chain but will this get the cut height corrected.
> I called Reel Rollers and ask them if they have ever run into this before and they told me that they were unaware of that much difference in the notch height and actual cutting height
> 
> 
> 
> The measurements on the McLane parts are when equipped with McLane parts. You changed the front roller which likely changed the measurements.
Click to expand...

 That may be true but if I remember correct the factory wheels are bigger in diameter than the roller which would make it even further off This thing is way way off I went ahead and moved the rear axle up in the other set of holes and took two links out of the drive chain and it helped some but still not close according to my accu guage I wish somebody else would measure theirs and see where it is actually cutting its just hard for me to believe the advertised measurments are that far off Oh well it is what it is I guess


----------



## VictorMatos3

Hello all. I have finally found some possible mowers for my putting green im trying to do on a budget. One mower in particular is a craftsman that i believe was built by McLane in the 60's? Does anyone have any knowledge on these? Its a 17" cut only 5 blades though, B&S motor. Clean and cheap. Ive talked to seller and everything sounds solid on it.


----------



## Reelrollers

Kevin63 said:


> quadmasta said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin63 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question ! I have a brand new 25 inch Mclane with a smooth front roller from Reel Rollers after we have used it couple months on my bermuda and my son's we got to noticing that the supposed cutting height notches do not match the actual height it is cutting . He cut his yesterday evening with it set on 1/4 inch notch and to verify the height being incorrect he went back over it with our Toro 3150Q Greensmaster set on 1/2 it cut over a quarter inch more off of it
> We then tipped it back and used our accu guage on it from the rear wheels to the front roller and it was almost 9/16 so that tells me the height notch measurments are no where close to correct. The rear axle is set in the middle position like all the others I have seen my question is has anyone on here ever moved the rear axle up which would drop the rear down ? I have looked and it wont really be a big deal to do take some bolts out and install in different hole biggest thing I can see is have to take a link or two out of the main drive chain but will this get the cut height corrected.
> I called Reel Rollers and ask them if they have ever run into this before and they told me that they were unaware of that much difference in the notch height and actual cutting height
> 
> 
> 
> The measurements on the McLane parts are when equipped with McLane parts. You changed the front roller which likely changed the measurements.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That may be true but if I remember correct the factory wheels are bigger in diameter than the roller which would make it even further off This thing is way way off I went ahead and moved the rear axle up in the other set of holes and took two links out of the drive chain and it helped some but still not close according to my accu guage I wish somebody else would measure theirs and see where it is actually cutting its just hard for me to believe the advertised measurments are that far off Oh well it is what it is I guess
Click to expand...

The front roller from us will give you the same cutting height as the front caster wheels, so this shouldn't be a factor in the actual cutting height ga the advertised cutting heights. The roller is a smaller diameter compared to the stock wheels, but the "legs" which come off the horizontal mounting pipe are longer than the stock legs to make up for the smaller diameter roller. I hope that makes sense.


----------



## rockwalltxguy

Kevin63 said:


> Question ! I have a brand new 25 inch Mclane with a smooth front roller from Reel Rollers after we have used it couple months on my bermuda and my son's we got to noticing that the supposed cutting height notches do not match the actual height it is cutting . He cut his yesterday evening with it set on 1/4 inch notch and to verify the height being incorrect he went back over it with our Toro 3150Q Greensmaster set on 1/2 it cut over a quarter inch more off of it
> We then tipped it back and used our accu guage on it from the rear wheels to the front roller and it was almost 9/16 so that tells me the height notch measurments are no where close to correct. The rear axle is set in the middle position like all the others I have seen my question is has anyone on here ever moved the rear axle up which would drop the rear down ? I have looked and it wont really be a big deal to do take some bolts out and install in different hole biggest thing I can see is have to take a link or two out of the main drive chain but will this get the cut height corrected.
> I called Reel Rollers and ask them if they have ever run into this before and they told me that they were unaware of that much difference in the notch height and actual cutting height


When you say he set it on the 1/4" notch. Did you move the Lift lever into the "A" position? if you left it in the "B" position you're actually cutting at around 7/8 of an inch on the lowest setting which is in line with the numbers you're telling me. I kept my rear axle on the medium position when I got my reel roller and changed the lift lever to the "A" position and on the lowest notch I cut at 1/4"


----------



## quadmasta

VictorMatos3 said:


> Hello all. I have finally found some possible mowers for my putting green im trying to do on a budget. One mower in particular is a craftsman that i believe was built by McLane in the 60's? Does anyone have any knowledge on these? Its a 17" cut only 5 blades though, B&S motor. Clean and cheap. Ive talked to seller and everything sounds solid on it.


It's silver? I got one of those. It's a rebadged McLane. I converted it to electric with an e-scooter motor/driver and EGO+ battery


----------



## VictorMatos3

quadmasta said:


> VictorMatos3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello all. I have finally found some possible mowers for my putting green im trying to do on a budget. One mower in particular is a craftsman that i believe was built by McLane in the 60's? Does anyone have any knowledge on these? Its a 17" cut only 5 blades though, B&S motor. Clean and cheap. Ive talked to seller and everything sounds solid on it.
> 
> 
> 
> It's silver? I got one of those. It's a rebadged McLane. I converted it to electric with an e-scooter motor/driver and EGO+ battery
Click to expand...

The one listed is red. Looks just like a mclane. After looking at the listing its a Sears not craftsman. Has a black and decker sticker on it as well. Just wondering if anyone knew more info on them. Searched internet for some time and didn't find much.

What would the height of cut be on this model?


----------



## capscrazy

ReelRollers also has a pretty handy adapter so you don't have to jerry rig too much. 
https://reelrollers.com/product-category/backlap-tools/mclane-backlap-tools/



lagerman72 said:


> Here is how I get the reel to spin backwards. Take off the chain guard, chain and front sprocket (allen key) and I just use a snug fit of tubing on the drive shaft clamped down onto drill (socket extension). You can use a hole saw bit with "teeth" cut into it onto the sprocket but I've never had much luck with the one I made staying on (see bottom pic).
> 
> 
> To adjust there are three bolts on each side. The front two allow the reel to move up/down and the back one is the pivot point. I'd loosen all just a little bit and from there you can tap on the tab (you'll see it on the inside of the front bolt) to move reel slightly on each side. Keep slightly adjusting until it's even, tighten and start backlapping.
> 
> 
> 
> For reference, this is the 1 7/8" modified hole saw I tried to use when not taking the front sprocket off.
> 
> 
> Hope that helps.


----------



## itsmejson

One thing that bothers me on my mclane is the bolt on the drive wheel lever always gets loose and has to be tighten each mow. Do any of you experience the same issue?


----------



## b10751

The bolt and nut on the drive lever on my new McLane came off the second time i mowed with it. I put some blue loc-tite on the threads and reassembled. Problem solved, for now anyway. I do keep an eye on it when i'm mowing, though.


----------



## itsmejson

b10751 said:


> The bolt and nut on the drive lever on my new McLane came off the second time i mowed with it. I put some blue loc-tite on the threads and reassembled. Problem solved, for now anyway. I do keep an eye on it when i'm mowing, though.


Thx! I didn't even think of using blue loc-tite. Glad to know I'm not the only one this happens to b


----------



## Kevin63

rockwalltxguy said:


> Kevin63 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question ! I have a brand new 25 inch Mclane with a smooth front roller from Reel Rollers after we have used it couple months on my bermuda and my son's we got to noticing that the supposed cutting height notches do not match the actual height it is cutting . He cut his yesterday evening with it set on 1/4 inch notch and to verify the height being incorrect he went back over it with our Toro 3150Q Greensmaster set on 1/2 it cut over a quarter inch more off of it
> We then tipped it back and used our accu guage on it from the rear wheels to the front roller and it was almost 9/16 so that tells me the height notch measurments are no where close to correct. The rear axle is set in the middle position like all the others I have seen my question is has anyone on here ever moved the rear axle up which would drop the rear down ? I have looked and it wont really be a big deal to do take some bolts out and install in different hole biggest thing I can see is have to take a link or two out of the main drive chain but will this get the cut height corrected.
> I called Reel Rollers and ask them if they have ever run into this before and they told me that they were unaware of that much difference in the notch height and actual cutting height
> 
> 
> 
> When you say he set it on the 1/4" notch. Did you move the Lift lever into the "A" position? if you left it in the "B" position you're actually cutting at around 7/8 of an inch on the lowest setting which is in line with the numbers you're telling me. I kept my rear axle on the medium position when I got my reel roller and changed the lift lever to the "A" position and on the lowest notch I cut at 1/4"
Click to expand...

Yes it is in the A position can I ask how you are measuring yours to determine the height is 1/4 ?


----------



## rockwalltxguy

Kevin63 said:


> rockwalltxguy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin63 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question ! I have a brand new 25 inch Mclane with a smooth front roller from Reel Rollers after we have used it couple months on my bermuda and my son's we got to noticing that the supposed cutting height notches do not match the actual height it is cutting . He cut his yesterday evening with it set on 1/4 inch notch and to verify the height being incorrect he went back over it with our Toro 3150Q Greensmaster set on 1/2 it cut over a quarter inch more off of it
> We then tipped it back and used our accu guage on it from the rear wheels to the front roller and it was almost 9/16 so that tells me the height notch measurments are no where close to correct. The rear axle is set in the middle position like all the others I have seen my question is has anyone on here ever moved the rear axle up which would drop the rear down ? I have looked and it wont really be a big deal to do take some bolts out and install in different hole biggest thing I can see is have to take a link or two out of the main drive chain but will this get the cut height corrected.
> I called Reel Rollers and ask them if they have ever run into this before and they told me that they were unaware of that much difference in the notch height and actual cutting height
> 
> 
> 
> When you say he set it on the 1/4" notch. Did you move the Lift lever into the "A" position? if you left it in the "B" position you're actually cutting at around 7/8 of an inch on the lowest setting which is in line with the numbers you're telling me. I kept my rear axle on the medium position when I got my reel roller and changed the lift lever to the "A" position and on the lowest notch I cut at 1/4"
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes it is in the A position can I ask how you are measuring yours to determine the height is 1/4 ?
Click to expand...

Nothing scientific, I'm measuring the grass with a metal ruler after it's cut and also measuring the bedknife height from my garage floor with calipers. I'm not real obsessed with it being precise on the cut height. On notch 2 I cut at around 5/8"


----------



## itsmejson

Kevin63 said:


> quadmasta said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kevin63 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question ! I have a brand new 25 inch Mclane with a smooth front roller from Reel Rollers after we have used it couple months on my bermuda and my son's we got to noticing that the supposed cutting height notches do not match the actual height it is cutting . He cut his yesterday evening with it set on 1/4 inch notch and to verify the height being incorrect he went back over it with our Toro 3150Q Greensmaster set on 1/2 it cut over a quarter inch more off of it
> We then tipped it back and used our accu guage on it from the rear wheels to the front roller and it was almost 9/16 so that tells me the height notch measurments are no where close to correct. The rear axle is set in the middle position like all the others I have seen my question is has anyone on here ever moved the rear axle up which would drop the rear down ? I have looked and it wont really be a big deal to do take some bolts out and install in different hole biggest thing I can see is have to take a link or two out of the main drive chain but will this get the cut height corrected.
> I called Reel Rollers and ask them if they have ever run into this before and they told me that they were unaware of that much difference in the notch height and actual cutting height
> 
> 
> 
> The measurements on the McLane parts are when equipped with McLane parts. You changed the front roller which likely changed the measurements.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That may be true but if I remember correct the factory wheels are bigger in diameter than the roller which would make it even further off This thing is way way off I went ahead and moved the rear axle up in the other set of holes and took two links out of the drive chain and it helped some but still not close according to my accu guage I wish somebody else would measure theirs and see where it is actually cutting its just hard for me to believe the advertised measurments are that far off Oh well it is what it is I guess
Click to expand...

How difficult was to move the rear axle up to achieve a lower cut? I've been trying to find a tutorial on doing it but have found none and the manual seems pretty vague to me.


----------



## Kevin63

itsmejson said:


> Kevin63 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> quadmasta said:
> 
> 
> 
> The measurements on the McLane parts are when equipped with McLane parts. You changed the front roller which likely changed the measurements.
> 
> 
> 
> That may be true but if I remember correct the factory wheels are bigger in diameter than the roller which would make it even further off This thing is way way off I went ahead and moved the rear axle up in the other set of holes and took two links out of the drive chain and it helped some but still not close according to my accu guage I wish somebody else would measure theirs and see where it is actually cutting its just hard for me to believe the advertised measurments are that far off Oh well it is what it is I guess
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How difficult was to move the rear axle up to achieve a lower cut? I've been trying to find a tutorial on doing it but have found none and the manual seems pretty vague to me.
Click to expand...

Yes I agree It was not any problem at all fairly simple the axle retaining bolts on the drive chain side are a little aggravating to get to but it can be done you will also need to purchase a master link a 41 double roller for the drive chain it will have to be shortened don't understand why they did not put one in it you will have to remove two links I will tell you after lowering it unless you are wanting to cut super low it makes it hard to push in grass that has much height after lowering ours I have to cut in A and 3rd notch I thought I would try it this way and see how it works out it seems to be fine no big deal to move back in the lower axle holes just have to add back to the chain


----------



## Sonoran Desert Lawn

I have some issues with my side bolts that adjust my reel to bed knife loosening after a month or so of use. Does this seem normal to everyone? I figure I can't use loctite because they need to be adjusted from time to time, right?


----------



## rockwalltxguy

Sonoran Desert Lawn said:


> I have some issues with my side bolts that adjust my reel to bed knife loosening after a month or so of use. Does this seem normal to everyone? I figure I can't use loctite because they need to be adjusted from time to time, right?


I don't have that issue but I will say this, after working on my Mclane this past weekend, the fit and finish is terrible on this thing, like made in China bad even though it's supposedly made here so I'm not surprised you are having that issue. No way should this mower cost $2k brand new. $1,000 is pushing it. I have bolts with bad threads, metal covers that were bent out of place from the factory, parts that are impossible to line up after you do minor maintenance. Don't get me wrong I'm happy I have it as my yard has never looked better but that's a function of the reel versus rotary cut not the machine itself. I'm already thinking about upgrading to a used John Deere or Toro reel next year after only having had my Mclane since October.


----------



## williams6966

What are you using to get an accurate measurement for height of cut on the greenskeeper model?


----------



## SGrabs33

Cross post for those interested in a NEW Split Grooved McLane roller with TLF Discount and Giveaway!





If you have any questions please ask them on the post above as I don't want to litter this thread with too many posts.

Thanks!


----------



## williams6966

Does the r&r backlap tool fit the GK series mower or does it only fit the GR models?


----------



## Edmond405

Hi Everyone! I'm a new member of TLF. 
I just bought a new 25in Mclane greenskeeper. Can anyone show me how to adjust a reel to bed knife and also how to adjust HOC. TIA


----------



## csl23

Check out how to with doc YouTube channel. He shows the reel to bedknife adjustment on a GR series which from the looks of the GK series it will be the same. He does not show HOC adjustment on that machine but it looks like you may need an accuguage to do it properly


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

About the HOC adjustment for the McLane Greenskeeper. I have a push 10 blade McLane "Greenskeeper" model and a couple of the 20" gas powered regular McLane reels. I am familiar with the style of height adjustment on your mower because the little 17" push mower has most of the same set up, aside from the knurled knob adjustment screws.

So to start with, as csl23 said above you're going to need some kind of HOC gauge/bar. Knowing exactly the height of the cutting edge of the bedknife off the ground is basically impossible without this specialized apparatus, but it doesn't have to be complicated or expensive. There's a thread under popular equipment topics for making your own bar on a budget. I followed that myself and made a couple of gauges from 1/8" angle iron bought from Home Depot. You can buy one ready made but they're kind of expensive usually. It wasn't expensive to make, but I already had some necessary tools like a drill press and an angle grinder. 

Once you have a HOC gauge that fits your particular McLane, you can tilt the mower all the way back and place the gauge so that it makes good contact with both the rear wheel and the flat part of the front roller straight ahead of it. The "gauge" which in cheap-o HOC bars like mine is just the head of a screw should sit on top of the bedknife's cutting edge. When the bar is in contact front and back with the rolling surfaces and the screw head or washer is likewise in contact with the cutting edge, then you can remove your hand the bar will sit in place. Remove the bar, and taking pocket carpenter's ruler (which must be marked with 32nds of an inch or finer) you can measure the distance from the top of the bar to the bottom the screw head or washer, and that is your current height of cut (bench measurement). To change HOC to something different, set the height you want on the HOC gauge, then loosen the bolts that secure the front roller and move it up or down with the knurled knobs on both sides, until you are sure the bar is in contact on both front and back roller surfaces and the screw head is in contact on the top of the bedknife. The bar should be able to just hang there by itself (a washer epoxied to the bottom of the screw head helps here) without losing contact at any of those 3 points. Need to be careful about not nicking that bedknife edge though. You will need to set and check both sides of the machine. It's possible to set the front roller out of parallel with the bedknife which will result in uneven cutting. 

The screw head and washer are obscured by a reel blade here.

Before moving on to how the roller is loosened to make the adjustment, I need to add some details about tilting the mower back. Greensmower like Toros and John Deeres are made with a kickstand that allows them to be tilted back for this adjustment. McLane's are not. Also the rear wheels on the mclane are smaller I think than the roller drums on the rear of commercial greensmowers. This means it may be more difficult to get your HOC bar fully underneath the rear wheel, depending on how your gauge is constructed. To tip the mower back far enough, you must push the handles down all the way to the floor, and then hold the mower down like that with a weight on the handles. I put a rubber mat over the handles and then a cinder block on top of that. You don't want to leave the mower in this position very long, as oil will eventually creep past the piston rings and lock the engine. You may also want to shut off the fuel supply valve. When not actively adjusting, return the mower to normal upright position.
Before you can adjust the knurled knobs, the front roller has to be loosened in 3 places on either side. There is a round bar across the width of the reel that has a threaded shaft through it. That has a nut on one end that must be loosened - and it looks like there's nuts on both ends on your mower. On my push mower that's an 11/16" nut. Then there are two 1/2" bolts on each side just down the side plate from the horizontal bar (Not the ones down closest to the roller). They also have to be loosened. Looking at these bolts you see that there is an vertical slot that they can travel up and down once they are loosened. Finally, you have jam nuts on the adjuster bolts and those will need to be spun up the bolt on both sides in order to twist the knobs to lower the HOC. Once you have the height set on both sides where you want it, the jam nuts need to be tightened down again. Then the horizontal bar nuts and the 1/2" nuts in the vertical slots (not the arcing slots - they are used for reel to bedknife adjustment) on the side panels. I'm assuming that the lower brackets that the adjuster bolts go through are threaded, and the silvery nut above is there only as a jam nut, to hold the setting until you have all the other bolts for the roller firmly tightened down.

I used angle iron instead of flat bar stock because the angle iron lay flatter on the Home Depot floor than the flat bars. Hot rolled steel gonna roll. Because it was angle iron I needed to cut a diagonal off the end of the gauge that goes underneath the rear wheel. I tapped the screw hole for extra credit, but as you can see below I was off vertical when I drilled the hole, so when taking measurements I have to use the lowest spot of the screw head/ washer. There are jam nuts on either side of the HOC bar to fix the setting so it doesn't wander away from what it's supposed to be while I'm trying to set the mower to that height.
Also, It's necessary with the McLane to measure carefully where the leading edge of the bedknife crosses the 
HOC bar you're making before drilling the hole for the screw. Not much wiggle room. Whereas with Toros and JDs and similar it seems like there's plenty of leeway to slap a HOC gauge up against the drum and move it front to back to position the needle to the bedkife without the end of the bar hitting the floor. One HOC gauge seems to fit all models. But with theMcLane the bar needs to be tailored to your model. I have different bars for my 17" push reel and 20" gas McLane reels, because the distance from rear wheel to bedknife is so different. 
Hope that's useful information.


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

In case anyone is scratching their head wondering why go to the trouble to make a HOC guage for a 20 " McLane, _a reel mower with fixed height settings_? It's because there are possible height settings that are not documented in the manual. In the manual, when the front axle is in top hole for the "A" range of heights ( 1/4, 7/16, 5/8 and 11/16), the pivot for the height adjustment arm is supposed to be in the bottom of the two holes on the arm. When the front axle is in the middle hole or "B" range, the pivot for the arm is supposed to be in the top hole. When you follow the manual on that point the published height settings are just as they given in the manual (aside from the typo which mistates the top of "A" range as 1 + 1/16 instead of 11/16. However when you _don't_ move the pivot to the hole on the adjust arm appropriate for the front axle setting that you've chosen, a different set of heights result from the fixed settings. They are, with the reel rollers smooth roller in place, 3/8ths (or a hair lower) , 17/32nds, 11/16ths, 25/32nds (call it 3/4).


----------



## Joe

My Mclane has front wheels, not a roller. For the life of me, I can't understand how a front roller helps! Doesn't it flatten the grass blades and prevent a good cut? Please explain 
By the way, I've added a DIY lawn striper to the back of my Mclane. It's certainly not fancy, but it works, and I made it from parts on hand.


----------



## Greendoc

Reason for a front roller is it mitigates the scalping on uneven ground that would result from the caster wheels sinking into the depressions. Not everyone has a countertop flat lawn. A front roller and full width rear roller make it possible for less than perfectly flat lawns to be reel cut. I do not have issues with a front roller, especially a grooved front roller pushing down the grass because HOC is low enough that it is not an issue. The pushing down of grass is most likely at HOC above 0.75".


----------



## Reelrollers

Great explanation, the front roller keeps the bedknife level even if your lawn isn't. Plus, the grass is actually pushed down less prior to cutting (which is a forward motion which pulls the grass up into the bedknife). With front wheels, the weight of the mower is dispersed over 2 small wheels (59lbs over 2 wheels = 25lbs on each 1" area of ground contact pushing grass down). The roller disperses that same 50lbs of front weight across 20" which means the down pressure on the grass blades is 2.5lbs per 1" of area). Yes more grass is being pushed down but it is significantly less push on each blade.

Reel mowers should never have front wheels, it's a huge miss in design for a "reel mower".


----------



## Joe

I appreciate the two explanations. Thanks.


----------



## Edmond405

@Groundskeeper Willie. Thank you for a helpful info. I'm going to try it later today. Here's the updated pictures hopefully I read it right


----------



## Groundskeeper Willie

Yes, you got it.
I can't find a link to a McLane manual for the 25" greenskeeper model but there ought to be one out there somewhere. I've found manuals for the 17" push McLanes online. The McLane folks should get one to you if you email them. A factory manual would cover height adjustment and would have the parts list and diagram, so pretty important to have one. But it wouldn't cover reel-2-bedknife adjustment or backlapping.

I wish I could write up a howto for reel to bedknife adjustment, but I've never felt I knew the best way to do that. You want the reel free enough to spin with one finger, but also making contact with a light sound that is more or less constant, not intermittent. If the mower is new from the factory it should be set right already and not in need of adjustment. Try the newsprint test - does it cut a folded over piece of newspaper cleanly and cut across the width of the reel? I try to remember the sound of a new McLane that my mother bought years ago to guide me. Like a nice pair of scissors, not too loud, with a consistent pitch. I can never get it quite like that when I backlap and adjust, but that's my guide. If it's making too much contact the sound will be loud and harsh, and the pressure between reel and bedknife will generate excess heat and spoil the cutting edges too soon.

Also if the mower is new from the factory, make sure it has oil in it! They do not ship them with oil in the engine. At least that was their practice 10 years ago.


----------



## pmalecki

rockwalltxguy said:


> Sonoran Desert Lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have some issues with my side bolts that adjust my reel to bed knife loosening after a month or so of use. Does this seem normal to everyone? I figure I can't use loctite because they need to be adjusted from time to time, right?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have that issue but I will say this, after working on my Mclane this past weekend, the fit and finish is terrible on this thing, like made in China bad even though it's supposedly made here so I'm not surprised you are having that issue. No way should this mower cost $2k brand new. $1,000 is pushing it. I have bolts with bad threads, metal covers that were bent out of place from the factory, parts that are impossible to line up after you do minor maintenance. Don't get me wrong I'm happy I have it as my yard has never looked better but that's a function of the reel versus rotary cut not the machine itself. I'm already thinking about upgrading to a used John Deere or Toro reel next year after only having had my Mclane since October.
Click to expand...

I'm in the same boat. I've had my Mclane for 3 months and I'm searching for a used GM 1600 or a JD. My lawn looks great, but for $2400 I wish I put that money into a used greens mower. Hopefully I can find a nice one over the winter. The quality control from Mclane is horrible. I was curious if It was just my mower.


----------



## jsams22

Would like some opinions from the McLane Crew.

Currently looking at a 2021 25" GR model. Already has the R&R smooth roller on the front that would allow the HOC to go down to around 3/8". Is there anything I could do to modify this lower? What methods are others using to get your spring scalp in?


----------



## Lawndry List

I haven't been reel mowing yet this summer & my McLane was on the same setting I used it on last year, but it's scalping hard & the drive chain keeps popping off. Did I install my reel roller incorrect & what's a good way to get it to a higher setting? I had it dialed in last year, but not sure if it got bumped or accidently adjusted during winter storage.


----------



## ATXGinger

itsmejson said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> itsmejson said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a weird sound with my mclane, which started after I nicked a rock noticing that it is getting extremely loud.
> 
> Anyone know what might be the cause or have any of you experienced this sound?
> 
> https://youtube.com/shorts/e62glj-Xuh4?feature=share
> 
> 
> 
> Yep that's going to be a high spot on the reel because you hit a rock. Is there a gouge in the blade or bedknife. Simple backlapping should help a lot.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes there is a gouge in the bedknife. I need to look again if there is anything on the reel.
Click to expand...

@itsmejson Curious to know what the outcome of this was? The sound of the video, the gouge in the bedknife...looks like I'm now in the same boat as you. Thx.


----------



## Richkm20

Well I just joined the McLane family, picked up this G17-PH-10 for a hundred bucks as an upgrade to my crappy great states push reel. Anyone with experience have any tips or tricks?


----------



## VictorMatos3

Richkm20 said:


> Well I just joined the McLane family, picked up this G17-PH-10 for a hundred bucks as an upgrade to my crappy great states push reel. Anyone with experience have any tips or tricks?


Heyyyy, me too. Lol. Just picked mine up on monday. I have been trying to make a fitting to backlap mine.


----------



## Jerry_G

Weird one.

I recently replaced the belt on my 25in mclane/honda gx160 engine, with a different (A-17.5) PN than the prev belt (4L-195). These belts do appear to have crossover part numbers; however, the new is actually about 1/4" longer than the old one.

On starting the engine, the new belt will engage the drive pulley enough to spin the reel and drive wheels pretty fast. I took apart and checked my routing no less than 5 times.
The belt is making contact with the clutch lever which has me wondering a few things:

Is the slightly longer belt my problem?
Does the belt need to "break in"? I've replaced this before and dont recall any issue
Am I incompetent and have this installed wrong?
Should I wait until Amazon delivers the 4L-195 Monday and not do anything drastic? (I'll need to mow again Sunday most likely)
Can I cut off the excess portion of my clutch lever which does not seem to serve any purpose other than adding unwanted tension on my current belt? This is past the cotter pin (ahem, romex) hole.

Was able to mow, but I'm barely pulling the clutch lever and chasing the mower. Its leaving some sweet burnout marks when I stop to turn and the drive wheels continue to spin. It also feels borderline unsafe to be pulling back on the mower as much as I need to on wet grass.





Any thoughts?


----------



## itsmejson

ATXGinger said:


> itsmejson said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yep that's going to be a high spot on the reel because you hit a rock. Is there a gouge in the blade or bedknife. Simple backlapping should help a lot.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes there is a gouge in the bedknife. I need to look again if there is anything on the reel.
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @itsmejson Curious to know what the outcome of this was? The sound of the video, the gouge in the bedknife...looks like I'm now in the same boat as you. Thx.
Click to expand...

Per @SGrabs33 recommendation I gave it a really good backslap and all was fine after that


----------



## Richkm20

VictorMatos3 said:


> Richkm20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well I just joined the McLane family, picked up this G17-PH-10 for a hundred bucks as an upgrade to my crappy great states push reel. Anyone with experience have any tips or tricks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heyyyy, me too. Lol. Just picked mine up on monday. I have been trying to make a fitting to backlap mine.
Click to expand...

Any luck on the backlapping? Been testing mine out and it seems to mostly tear the grass at this point.


----------



## VictorMatos3

Richkm20 said:


> VictorMatos3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Richkm20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well I just joined the McLane family, picked up this G17-PH-10 for a hundred bucks as an upgrade to my crappy great states push reel. Anyone with experience have any tips or tricks?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heyyyy, me too. Lol. Just picked mine up on monday. I have been trying to make a fitting to backlap mine.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Any luck on the backlapping? Been testing mine out and it seems to mostly tear the grass at this point.
Click to expand...

 For me, not yet. Waiting for my lapping compound to ship. Still learning what bolt adjusts what too. I plan on getting a gear/bearing puller and just doing the hose hoseclamp trick with my drill. If worst come to worst i can just slap it together and pull it backwards.


----------



## Jerry_G

Continuing to have the runaway reel issue with this new belt.

Looking at the manual, McLane says the clutch rod is to make contact with the belt at the clutch rest position. 
I've adjusted the deadman spring tension both ways and makes no difference. It's currently where it was with the 4L-195 belt: max tension, which pulls the tensioner pulley all the way out of the way. Belt making no contact with tensioner.

Adjusting the clutch lever rod itself has no bearing on this situation as the issue is with clutch out. The lever rod adjustment only changes the length of pull required by the operator.

I've also ordered a smaller drive pulley as mine measuring 2 5/8" and may be part of the issue, although never was with prior belts.

Reading a 2" will also let me walk at a more comfortable pace.

4L-195 arriving tomorrow, will update thread with results.


----------



## rockwalltxguy

Reel Rollers sells a perfect match for the OEM. I just keep a couple on hand in case.


----------



## Jerry_G

rockwalltxguy said:


> Reel Rollers sells a perfect match for the OEM. I just keep a couple on hand in case.


Part number?


----------



## rockwalltxguy

Jerry_G said:


> rockwalltxguy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Reel Rollers sells a perfect match for the OEM. I just keep a couple on hand in case.
> 
> 
> 
> Part number?
Click to expand...

On the reel rollers site it's the only clutch belt for Mclane listed. It says it's Mclane SKU 1060

https://reelrollers.com/product/mclane-clutch-belt/


----------



## Jerry_G

rockwalltxguy said:


> Jerry_G said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rockwalltxguy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Reel Rollers sells a perfect match for the OEM. I just keep a couple on hand in case.
> 
> 
> 
> Part number?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> On the reel rollers site it's the only clutch belt for Mclane listed. It says it's Mclane SKU 1060
> 
> https://reelrollers.com/product/mclane-clutch-belt/
Click to expand...

Ok, reason I ask is that's where these 2 came from which are labeled A17.5. The 4L-195 came today and was visibly larger; I installed it and had no runaway reel issues.
This was the G.W. Belt brand I'd used before and will be ordering more of.

Based on my experience with this other belt PN A17.5, I wouldnt recommend the part to anyone.


----------



## Edmond405

Hi all! Do you guy know any where to buy the clutch bell and backlap drill adapter for 25 inch GK series Greenkeeper? I had a hard time to find it!


----------



## VictorMatos3

It appears that I need to replace my reel sprocket. I have the greens hand push reel 10 blade. The online manual lists it as #1579 8 tooth sprocket.

I could use help finding it. Ive searched amazon and ebay with no luck.


----------



## Diesel7186

Hello all. I have a Mclane 25" that I purchased used. There are a few things that I had questions on and needed advice on how to fix.



I have this 5HP B&S engine which I just put a new starter cord on (not in this picture). When I mowed with it yesterday for the first time, I feel that even when I moved the throttle all the way the machine still was not moving fast and was more of a slow walking pace. Is there a way to tell if it is moving at the appropriate speed or not? How can I possibly correct this?



I noticed also that the clutch handle, when I pull it up to start the reel I ever so slightly can move it and it starts to go. When I release the grip it stayed with the reel moving and have to move it all the way to the off position for it to turn off. Could this be due to the belt? I have tried to adjust the bar and that did not make a difference.





The last thing is how do I know if my wheels are properly set for when I lower the drive handle to place the wheels down? Is it supposed to just sit on the floor when it is engaged? Should I slightly lift the side wheels when you put down the drive wheels?

Your help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## DocTodd

Somehow ran over a marker flag wire in the yard this weekend and broke/threw the chain running the drive. Is there anything else I should check and/or replace when getting a new chain for the drive? The chain was stuck between the sprocket and the right side. Also, how much slack should be in the chain on the left? 25" machine
Thank you!


----------



## Richkm20

VictorMatos3 said:


> Richkm20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VictorMatos3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Heyyyy, me too. Lol. Just picked mine up on monday. I have been trying to make a fitting to backlap mine.
> 
> 
> 
> Any luck on the backlapping? Been testing mine out and it seems to mostly tear the grass at this point.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> For me, not yet. Waiting for my lapping compound to ship. Still learning what bolt adjusts what too. I plan on getting a gear/bearing puller and just doing the hose hoseclamp trick with my drill. If worst come to worst i can just slap it together and pull it backwards.
Click to expand...

Any updates with backlapping and getting it in working condition? Life has gotten in the way so unfortunately mine has been sitting in the garage waiting for some much needed TLC


----------



## Cencallawnnoob

Looks like my slick rear tires are about to give. Are there any benefits on getting the ribbed tires?


----------



## VictorMatos3

Richkm20 said:


> VictorMatos3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Richkm20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any luck on the backlapping? Been testing mine out and it seems to mostly tear the grass at this point.
> 
> 
> 
> For me, not yet. Waiting for my lapping compound to ship. Still learning what bolt adjusts what too. I plan on getting a gear/bearing puller and just doing the hose hoseclamp trick with my drill. If worst come to worst i can just slap it together and pull it backwards.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Any updates with backlapping and getting it in working condition? Life has gotten in the way so unfortunately mine has been sitting in the garage waiting for some much needed TLC
Click to expand...

Struggled backlapping. Made it work, realized one side of the reel was lower than the other. Trying to find a reel sprocket now because idiot me broke a tooth off while trying to remove it to backlap again now that i know how to adjust everything right. Its very finicky. So ive been cutting my putting green with my american reel at 1/2 inch.

As soon as the sprocket gets here, if it works, I will backlap again until it cuts paper and dial in the hoc to 3/16. They definitely didnt make adjustments on this thing user friendly thats for sure. Most likely will invest in a self-propelled greens mower in the future.

Before the sprocket incident it cut well enough just wasnt as sharp as i wanted and wasnt as low as i could have made it. I'll get there. Hopefully you get yours going soon.


----------



## Hiresdk

I've been running a used mclane for a few years now with a front roller. I've always been frustrated Ethel reel to bedknife adjustment. In order to cut paper all the way across I have to tighten it tighter than I think I should have to. As a result it is soooooo noisy. Anybody else have this problem?


----------



## Richkm20

VictorMatos3 said:


> Richkm20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VictorMatos3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> For me, not yet. Waiting for my lapping compound to ship. Still learning what bolt adjusts what too. I plan on getting a gear/bearing puller and just doing the hose hoseclamp trick with my drill. If worst come to worst i can just slap it together and pull it backwards.
> 
> 
> 
> Any updates with backlapping and getting it in working condition? Life has gotten in the way so unfortunately mine has been sitting in the garage waiting for some much needed TLC
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Struggled backlapping. Made it work, realized one side of the reel was lower than the other. Trying to find a reel sprocket now because idiot me broke a tooth off while trying to remove it to backlap again now that i know how to adjust everything right. Its very finicky. So ive been cutting my putting green with my american reel at 1/2 inch.
> 
> As soon as the sprocket gets here, if it works, I will backlap again until it cuts paper and dial in the hoc to 3/16. They definitely didnt make adjustments on this thing user friendly thats for sure. Most likely will invest in a self-propelled greens mower in the future.
> 
> Before the sprocket incident it cut well enough just wasnt as sharp as i wanted and wasnt as low as i could have made it. I'll get there. Hopefully you get yours going soon.
Click to expand...

I went and played around with mine a bit, I'm starting to think the bed knife is toast and I bought a mower with no life left in it😂 here's a picture of the side of the bed knife, no raised contact point on the front anymore and I can't find a spare online.


----------



## Cencallawnnoob

Richkm20 said:


> VictorMatos3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Richkm20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any updates with backlapping and getting it in working condition? Life has gotten in the way so unfortunately mine has been sitting in the garage waiting for some much needed TLC
> 
> 
> 
> Struggled backlapping. Made it work, realized one side of the reel was lower than the other. Trying to find a reel sprocket now because idiot me broke a tooth off while trying to remove it to backlap again now that i know how to adjust everything right. Its very finicky. So ive been cutting my putting green with my american reel at 1/2 inch.
> 
> As soon as the sprocket gets here, if it works, I will backlap again until it cuts paper and dial in the hoc to 3/16. They definitely didnt make adjustments on this thing user friendly thats for sure. Most likely will invest in a self-propelled greens mower in the future.
> 
> Before the sprocket incident it cut well enough just wasnt as sharp as i wanted and wasnt as low as i could have made it. I'll get there. Hopefully you get yours going soon.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I went and played around with mine a bit, I'm starting to think the bed knife is toast and I bought a mower with no life left in it😂 here's a picture of the side of the bed knife, no raised contact point on the front anymore and I can't find a spare online.
Click to expand...

I just replaced my bedknife and my old one look exactly like yours. Now my reel look lopsided.


----------



## VictorMatos3

Cencallawnnoob said:


> Richkm20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VictorMatos3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Struggled backlapping. Made it work, realized one side of the reel was lower than the other. Trying to find a reel sprocket now because idiot me broke a tooth off while trying to remove it to backlap again now that i know how to adjust everything right. Its very finicky. So ive been cutting my putting green with my american reel at 1/2 inch.
> 
> As soon as the sprocket gets here, if it works, I will backlap again until it cuts paper and dial in the hoc to 3/16. They definitely didnt make adjustments on this thing user friendly thats for sure. Most likely will invest in a self-propelled greens mower in the future.
> 
> Before the sprocket incident it cut well enough just wasnt as sharp as i wanted and wasnt as low as i could have made it. I'll get there. Hopefully you get yours going soon.
> 
> 
> 
> I went and played around with mine a bit, I'm starting to think the bed knife is toast and I bought a mower with no life left in it😂 here's a picture of the side of the bed knife, no raised contact point on the front anymore and I can't find a spare online.
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I just replaced my bedknife and my old one look exactly like yours. Now my reel look lopsided.
Click to expand...

Where on earth would i find "spare" "parts" ive looked for weeks for the reel sprocket and starting to think the guy i bought mine from used the #1066 (i thinknthats the part number) sprocket to replace the 1579 one its supposed to have....


----------



## UtahSteve

New to this forum but joined as I'm going to buy a reel mower and could use advise and just enjoy reading what other say.

I'm looking at this McLane, https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/68735783.

I'd like to put a front roller on it. Will this one work? https://reelrollers.com/product/mclane-grooved-front-roller/

I'm considering a used Allett or a Toro GM 1000 or possibly a brand new McLane GR 20". I'd like something easy to work on but also want to be able to have my reel engaged and spinning but not have to have the roller spinning at the same time. Maybe that's a bigger deal than it is and I could live without.

Any comments or suggestions are appreciated.


----------



## Jash55

I am new to this forum, and I am struggling with my Mclane GR 25" clutch belt, which keep slipping off when the reel is engaged. I recently changed the belt due to wear and tear. When changing it, I disassembled the clutch spring. When I put it back together after the new belt was installed, the engine and jack shaft pulley seem slightly off (about 1/4"). I can't seem to figure out how to get these pulleys aligned. When I start the engine and engage the reel a few times, the belt invariably slips off the idler bearing and then off the pulleys. Has anyone experienced something like this before and can recommend a solution?


----------



## mggray87

Ok so I bought a used McLane 20". It had bald drive tires and the 2 back slick tires were shot. So I installed brand new drive tires and rear tires. While I was at it I put all 3 new chains on. I added a grooved reel roller to it. Now what I noticed. With the McLane at lowest setting 1/4(scalp). My bed knife sits on the floor. When I push the mower I hear a scrape. Then noticed the reel roller is just so slightly off the ground where I can roll the roller by hand. Like 1/16" off ground. Maybe a tadddd more. But if I go up to the next hoc listed in manual I think 7/16" and beyond. Roller is on ground and bed knife is not touching the floor.

Is that normal. Anyone drop their McLane 20" to 1/4" in manual for scalp and is the bed knife touching the floor. I noticed it sticks lower than the sides of the mower.

Rear wheels are in middle settings and the roller.is in highest setting to be able to get the 1/4-11/16 cut. What I didn't check is if I drop the drive wheels if it picks up the mower however slight to get the knife off the ground. But it doesn't make sense as I'd think I should be able to move it freely without the knife touching the concrete


----------



## mggray87

well after more looking into it.... I discovered a weird issue... thechain side of the bedknife is about 3mm lower than the other side.. not sure how it can be off as it has set holes to secure the bedknife.. no adjustment. so its scraping so ill probably have to order a new bedknife and hopefully its perfectly straight... the used mclane.. the bedknife is thick.. how does it warp or bend like that on one side.. to the eye it looks straight.. maybe a manufacturer issue back when this thing was made? its not two old but maybe 8 years....?


----------



## Richkm20

Well I'm beginning to think my foray into the world of Mclane mowers with this g17-ph-10 may be coming to an abrupt end but I wanted to reach out for a bit of advice before I send it to the scrap heap. I'm pretty sure that the bedknife is absolutely shot and have search high and low for some way to replace it with zero luck. I'll add a few photos of the bedknife and please let me know if there is any saving this thing. The first picture shows the contact point of the reel with the bedknife and its about half an inch wide at this point. Has anyone ever bought a 25 inch greenskeeper blade and hacked it down and welded it back together?


----------



## Cencallawnnoob

I ordered some rear tires a while ago and was going to wait til the end of the season to swap out the tires. But one of them was hanging onto its life. Had to take the plunge and swap them out today. There's no videos or walkthrough that I could find and I'm not the type that would video myself. I took some photos as I go to help out a fellow mclane owner. The photos are out of order so if anyone have any question just ask.

-remove the chain guard and chain. 
-remove the 4 13mm bolts on the right side behind the sprocket. This step could be easier if you can take off the sprocket. Mine was stuck on there. But I was able to work around it. 
-remove the 4 13mm on the left side. 
-take off the cotter pin and remove the arm from the drive wheels. 
-lift the back of the mower up so the drive wheels will hang down giving you access to the 8 13mm nut and bolt. 
-take off the drive chain on the left side. I didn't need to remove the chain on the right side
-loosen all 8 bolts and the axle should drop
-left wheel comes off easily. Swap the tire. My tire was just hanging on so it came off easily. I left the tires in the sun when I started. I don't know if that helped or not. One side of the tire sidewall is bigger on one side. I pressed the smaller side onto the wheel. Don't try to get the sidewall all the way on. I had a hard time because I was trying to get the sidewall into place. I decided to just press the wheel right into tue sidewall folding it folding it in. Then after it's on I use my fingers to pull the wall out. 
-get both tires on. 
-one tip is to get the 8 13mm bolts on the outside on first. Don't tighten it yet. Just hand tighten. 
-I took the 6 13mm nut and bolt off on the hangers. I left the middle one on there loosely. Then rotate the bracket into place and install the 3 nut and bolts on each side. Tighten everything. Put the chain and chain guard back on. 
-now enjoy your new tires and mow the lawn 😀


----------



## GHTech

Greetings,

My 20" 7-blade Mclane is cutting deeper on the right side. I have a roller that a friend installed for me. I have backlapped it at the beginning of the season. Due to the water restrictions the lawn does not look great.

Attached are 2 photographs hopefully showing that the right side is cutting deeper. What should I check for?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## carroll98

I'm just getting started with turfing and don't know much about seeds, lawn types, and lawn mowers. I would like to pick the best lawn mower for me but can't decide which one is light enough but still mows well but can't decide on one. Perhaps you have a favorite lawn mower and could you tell me more about it. I will be very grateful!


----------



## csl23

GHTech said:


> Greetings,
> 
> My 20" 7-blade Mclane is cutting deeper on the right side. I have a roller that a friend installed for me. I have backlapped it at the beginning of the season. Due to the water restrictions the lawn does not look great.
> 
> Attached are 2 photographs hopefully showing that the right side is cutting deeper. What should I check for?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Do you have or know anyone with an accuguage to check your bedknife height on both ends?


----------



## GHTech

csl23 said:


> Do you have or know anyone with an accuguage to check your bedknife height on both ends?


Hi csl23,

Thank you for responding. Didn't know what a accugague was. Had to YouTube it. Don't know anyone with one. I get the idea, Maybe use a digital caliper to check the height on both sides.

Thanks,

GHTech


----------



## GHTech

csl23 said:


> Do you have or know anyone with an accuguage to check your bedknife height on both ends?


Hi csl23,

I measured the space between the bottom of the bedknife and the level against the rear wheel and the front roller. The measurements are the same (within about 1/16"). Anything else I should check?

Thanks,

GHTech


----------



## csl23

GHTech said:


> csl23 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have or know anyone with an accuguage to check your bedknife height on both ends?
> 
> 
> 
> Hi csl23,
> 
> I measured the space between the bottom of the bedknife and the level against the rear wheel and the front roller. The measurements are the same (within about 1/16"). Anything else I should check?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> GHTech
Click to expand...

Has your mower been doing this all season or did it just start out of the blue recently?

Has your yard been sand leveled? Unlevel turf can often cause this problem which gets magnified later in the season as the grass gets fluffy causing mower to float


----------



## GHTech

csl23 said:


> Has your mower been doing this all season or did it just start out of the blue recently?
> 
> Has your yard been sand leveled? Unlevel turf can often cause this problem which gets magnified later in the season as the grass gets fluffy causing mower to float


Hi csl23,

I believe that it has been doing for a while. It may have been after the roller was installed. But, when I measure the roller on both sides, it looks even. I did level it a bit in a couple of places. Due to water restrictions, I did not try to do the leveling as I would not be able to put much water to help grow it back.

Regards,

GHTech


----------



## csl23

GHTech said:


> csl23 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has your mower been doing this all season or did it just start out of the blue recently?
> 
> Has your yard been sand leveled? Unlevel turf can often cause this problem which gets magnified later in the season as the grass gets fluffy causing mower to float
> 
> 
> 
> Hi csl23,
> 
> I believe that it has been doing for a while. It may have been after the roller was installed. But, when I measure the roller on both sides, it looks even. I did level it a bit in a couple of places. Due to water restrictions, I did not try to do the leveling as I would not be able to put much water to help grow it back.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> GHTech
Click to expand...

Additional pics of your yard would help


----------



## GHTech

csl23 said:


> Additional pics of your yard would help


Additional pics.


----------



## GHTech

GHTech said:


> csl23 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Additional pics of your yard would help
> 
> 
> 
> Additional pics.
Click to expand...

My current HOC is set at Height A, and Notch 4. According to the chart it is supposed to be 1-1/16". From my measurements I am at 7/8", which should be because of the smaller diameter roller. Maybe I should switch to Height B, so that I don't scalp so much every time, and I might reduce the balance issue.


----------



## GHTech

GHTech said:


> My current HOC is set at Height A, and Notch 4. According to the chart it is supposed to be 1-1/16". From my measurements I am at 7/8", which should be because of the smaller diameter roller. Maybe I should switch to Height B, so that I don't scalp so much every time, and I might reduce the balance issue.


I just changed to Height B. Checked the paper cut, and find that the left side would not cut paper. I backlapped and adjusted it at the beginning of the season. That maybe why the right side is cutting better than the left. I will backlap in the morning, and report back. :-(


----------



## girevik

Does McLane sell the 17" any more?

I certainly wouldn't hack one apart just to try and fit it back together.

If you're determined to keep what you have I would get someone to grind it down and reweld it. After that I'd take it to someone who could surface grind the blade to get proper thickness. Welding it will warp the knife so there will need to be plenty of metal to grind back down. Surface grinding is likely how they do it at the factory, or something similar.

It'll be the opposite of cheap but can likely be done with proper planning/measuring.

Cheaper idea would be to scrap it and buy a 20".



Richkm20 said:


> Well I'm beginning to think my foray into the world of Mclane mowers with this g17-ph-10 may be coming to an abrupt end but I wanted to reach out for a bit of advice before I send it to the scrap heap. I'm pretty sure that the bedknife is absolutely shot and have search high and low for some way to replace it with zero luck. I'll add a few photos of the bedknife and please let me know if there is any saving this thing. The first picture shows the contact point of the reel with the bedknife and its about half an inch wide at this point. Has anyone ever bought a 25 inch greenskeeper blade and hacked it down and welded it back together?


----------



## csl23

GHTech said:


> GHTech said:
> 
> 
> 
> My current HOC is set at Height A, and Notch 4. According to the chart it is supposed to be 1-1/16". From my measurements I am at 7/8", which should be because of the smaller diameter roller. Maybe I should switch to Height B, so that I don't scalp so much every time, and I might reduce the balance issue.
> 
> 
> 
> I just changed to Height B. Checked the paper cut, and find that the left side would not cut paper. I backlapped and adjusted it at the beginning of the season. That maybe why the right side is cutting better than the left. I will backlap in the morning, and report back. :-(
Click to expand...

Your yard looks un level from the pictures. I would definitely raise your HOC and see what happens after you correct reel to bed knife contact


----------

