# Soil test. Recommendations please.



## BubbaGrumpus (Jun 17, 2019)

Test taken earlier this year. The agronomist recommended that we test a "bad area" that looked like large spot.. hence the 3 tests for the front yard.. which is centipede.

Things I've done since.

1. 2 sprays of RGS/Air-8 at recommended rates.
2. 2 sprays of humic/fulvic/kelp, mycorrhizae, yucca at recommended rates.
3. I'm not sure on the math, but (2) 40lb bags of 10-10-10. 1 on front 7k. 1 on back 7k. Dropped mid September.
4. Pre-M throughout, and disease-ex on the front. Both dropped at/around 70degree soil temp.

I know I need to get better with the math, and I know I should keep a journal. I'm working on it.

Holding off on lime, but I was thinking 20lb/k as an overall average. Im torn between treating the entire yard as a bermuda yard then letting the grass work it out.. or.. well im not sure.. thats all I got.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Each nutrient is indexed. That means the raw findings of the testing is converted to a 0-100 scale with index values falling between 50-70 being "optimum". You can use lab specific conversion factors to calculate the original tested valuespm or lbs/acre. For more information (see pg, 9): http://www.ncagr.gov/agronomi/pdffiles/obook.pdf
It appears NC Ag makes their recs specific to turf type (kudos), Suggest you follow their recommendations regarding pounds of nutrients (N and K) to apply regardless of whatever products you chose (or can find) to use.
Centipede performs best when pH and P are low. You have extremely high levels of P. Do not add any product containing P.
As to the Bermuda in the back yard, it's best to have pH above 5.5. Once again P levels are high. Do not add any product containing P.
I suggest you follow their recs for lime as they are based on the amount of change need to reach the ideal pH for the Centipede (5.3-5.8) and the Bermuda (5,8-6.5). If anything, do slightly less rather than more. 20#/M of lime would exceed the 15#/M rec for that one FLG area. Re-test next year and adjust lime app rates in the future based on the new test.


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## BubbaGrumpus (Jun 17, 2019)

Thank you! This was all in another language. Honestly.. it was overwhelming.

I tried to organize the post a little better and relabeled some things to make it easier to read going forward.

I'll look over that link and see if I can make it make sense for me. Are the high levels of Phosphorus caused by the PH levels? Any glaring issues with the Micro's?

Other then not doing it again.. Will the 10-10-10 have a detrimental effect on the grass? I'll adjust my plan for lime as well.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

P= phosphorous
K= potassium
As I mentioned, studies have shown that Centipede does not do well with high P levels. Your P levels are high, very high, Not much you can do about that other than not add more and let it come down on it's own over time. 10-10-10 is equal parts nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. That is fine for N and K, but not for P in your case. Do not apply anything with P.
Other than S (sulfur), your micros appear to be sufficient. Sulfur levels represent soil sulphate content, an important plant nutrient. You can supply sulfate by using ammonium sulfate for N and potassium sulfate for K in the ratios recommended by the soil test. You should post in the warm season section and ask someone with centipede to recommend a fertilizer schedule and amt for that turf.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I think you should also bag your clippings in the centipede side. This will slowly reduce your P. Like ridgerunner said, no more P on this lawn.

@Greendoc do you know what visual effects a centipede lawn could have with very high P?


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

> I think you should also bag your clippings in the centipede side. This will slowly reduce your P. Like ridgerunner said, no more P on this lawn.


That's a most excellent suggestion for helping reduce P levels a little faster. :thumbup:


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

g-man said:


> I think you should also bag your clippings in the centipede side. This will slowly reduce your P. Like ridgerunner said, no more P on this lawn.
> 
> @Greendoc do you know what visual effects a centipede lawn could have with very high P?


Centipede shows chlorosis and stunting with high P. What is happening is the high P is binding the micronutrients. Centipede is most susceptible, but this can happen to other grasses.


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