# Honda Rotary Mowers Transmission Difference Inquiry



## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

Regarding Honda rotary push mowers - does anyone have experience with the hydrostatic drive transmission vs select drive? I am trying to discern the benefit of one over the other, since it's still all belt driven, versus axle driven as on the commercial model.

I have a Honda HRR216 that I'm tired of repairing. It's five years old. The drive doesn't work. The wheels are worn bald. It dies while running and now I can't get it to start. So, I'm eyeing the HRX series, although I'm open to other brands as well.


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## OutdoorEnvy (Sep 27, 2017)

Well the select drive of the HRR and the HRX217VKA are both belt drives for the self propel system. The HRX217HYA is a shaft drive system. The shaft drive basically doesn't have a belt to wear out, so it will last longer and hold up better over constant use. That's why it's in the commercial series. The Honda belt drives though are really good. I had an HRR216SDA that the belt lasted 15 years and then I replaced it myself for a cost of $12.

As for your HRR it's probably either the belt is bad or came off the track, the cable could be loose or broken as well. As for the running problems you can do the normal carb cleaning and double check you don't have any debris in the gas lines and tank. That sounds fuel related assuming your choke is operating normally. There's plenty of youtube vids showing how to do these things so I would give the DIY a go before dropping a lot of money.


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

OutdoorEnvy said:


> Well the select drive of the HRR and the HRX217VKA are both belt drives for the self propel system. The HRX217HYA is a shaft drive system. The shaft drive basically doesn't have a belt to wear out, so it will last longer and hold up better over constant use. That's why it's in the commercial series. The Honda belt drives though are really good. I had an HRR216SDA that the belt lasted 15 years and then I replaced it myself for a cost of $12.
> 
> As for your HRR it's probably either the belt is bad or came off the track, the cable could be loose or broken as well. As for the running problems you can do the normal carb cleaning and double check you don't have any debris in the gas lines and tank. That sounds fuel related assuming your choke is operating normally. There's plenty of youtube vids showing how to do these things so I would give the DIY a go before dropping a lot of money.


There are three different versions of the Honda drive system.

I currently own the HRRVYA which has the smart drive and roto-stop blade brake system. I didn't particularly like the paddle style of engagement, but it worked. I'm trying to understand how the smart drive, the select drive, and the hydrostatic are different. 
I thought all three of the transmissions were belt driven, and that the only shaft driven version was on the HRC - the commercial model which starts at about $1100.

Regarding the HRR, I'm generally pretty repair savy. I feel comfortable doing timing belt and head gasket repairs on an automobile.
I had an issue before where the HRR was running rich and would carbon foul the spark plug. I replaced the spark plug, the air filter, the carb, the choke, the thermowax piece, and all the applicable paper gaskets. It worked okay afterwards but still wasn't quite right. I've been running 89 octane non-ethanol fuel (I use 89 for my stihl stuff so I just get all the same octane) with stabil included. I've taken off the carb, sprayed with carb cleaner, and sprayed out with air. Best case, I've got some dirt stuck in the carb that I manage to get out, and then adjust the belt to get the transmission working again.

If the engine was running well, I'd be happy to go about resolving the drive train issue. However, at this point, it doesn't start, the wheels are worn smooth, and the self propel doesn't work - Is there a point where you just decide F it and move on?


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## William (Oct 2, 2017)

Movingshrub said:


> So, I'm eyeing the HRX series, although I'm open to other brands as well.


May I suggest a toro commercial mower? I have a 2012-ish one with a Kawasaki engine. It is a beast, but will likely out live me. Probably going to sell it in the next month or so as I have a Bermuda yard now.

This is the new model. I like the BBC feature. If you need to move a stick or piece of trash you don't have to shut off the mower.

https://www.toro.com/en/professional-contractor/commercial-mowers/21-heavy-duty-kawasaki-bbc-22298


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## OutdoorEnvy (Sep 27, 2017)

Well it's ultimately what you want and can afford. Seems like you've put effort into it so if it's getting to be more trouble than it's worth that's usually when you move on. I have the HRX217VKA and would tell you it's similar to that paddle one you have now. My father in law has your same mower I believe. It's the HRR but it has the blade stop and the paddle drive system. The select drive on my HRX seems to work the same in terms of the further you push it down the faster it goes. The select drive basically let's you set the max push down distance to max out where you want it. As you turn the dial to faster speed the gray handle push out more so you have more distance to push it down and it will go faster. I find it's really fast and have mine next to the minimum. I do like the handle position though much better than the paddle. you can wrap your thumb and fingers around the whole system so you have the propel down as the setting you want while you're holding the handle bar. So it feels like one piece.


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

OutdoorEnvy said:


> Well it's ultimately what you want and can afford. Seems like you've put effort into it so if it's getting to be more trouble than it's worth that's usually when you move on. I have the HRX217VKA and would tell you it's similar to that paddle one you have now. My father in law has your same mower I believe. It's the HRR but it has the blade stop and the paddle drive system. The select drive on my HRX seems to work the same in terms of the further you push it down the faster it goes. The select drive basically let's you set the max push down distance to max out where you want it. As you turn the dial to faster speed the gray handle push out more so you have more distance to push it down and it will go faster. I find it's really fast and have mine next to the minimum. I do like the handle position though much better than the paddle. you can wrap your thumb and fingers around the whole system so you have the propel down as the setting you want while you're holding the handle bar. So it feels like one piece.


Thanks!

I managed to get my mower to start again. Ran for about 15m then died, with smoke coming out of the intake. My money is on as valve. I see a replacement coming up rather than the hassle of fixing it.


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