# Switch From Tru Cut To JD 260B??



## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

I have a TruCut 27 I have been very pleased with. But found a steal on two JD Greens mowers, both 260B models.

Any opinions on thr TruCut vs the JD?

Any reason to switch? I could easily make some money on the deal by keeping one and selling my TruCut and the Second JD but my main focus is the best mower for me.

Grass is flat Bermuda yard around .5 - .75 HOC.

Just looking for opinions.


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

Do it. You won't be disappointed.


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

Going to look tomorrow! Says both run but "need some work" so I'll see what that entails. Pics look pretty clean though.


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## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

The only issue I have with the JD (experience is with a 220) would be its lack of agility when turning. You'll find the TC to be much more forgiving and easier to handle around trees, houses and fencing. The JD will also have transport axels that stick out 3-4 inches on each side, you'll want to remove these if you plan to get close to any standing obstacles.

When it comes to the quality of cut, the JD will shine! I sometimes miss my TC, but the quality of cut and precision HOC adjustments are just too good with a Greens mower!


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

Good to hear!

Alright so he still has them, gonna take an early lunch and go look at them.

Anything specific to check out/look out for?

Also, my backyard is very hilly - I do not cut it near as often or as low as the front.

Would I need to get a standard mower for the back or would a greens mower be able to handle it?


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Do you have any photos of the back yard?


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

I do not, it's pretty steep. I'll try to get one today for you though. I could go sideways across it I guess but would have to go up it at least once or twice and then I could go side to side.

I don't mind cutting the back with a rotary though, it's almost a pain to cut with the TruCut anyway due to the weight. I just can't keep it up like the front due to dogs. I still keep it nice, green, weedless etc. But much higher and do not cut near as often.

With all of this said, I can get both JD 260B mowers for $400 - for both. One may need a gear box but they both run and said are operational. I'm mechanically inclined, for example - just rebuilt that tractor in my driveway so I can fix whatever these need. Just need to be careful and make sure it's nothing too expensive so I can come out ahead in the end.

Again, they do not look abused in the pictures either.

Will I be able to scalp my yard with a greens mower like I do my TruCut?? (Didn't know if you need to be more careful/easier on these?)


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Kustrud said:


> Will I be able to scalp my yard with a greens mower like I do my TruCut??


Yes.


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

Man I'm excited - I hope these things check out! I guess at worst-case, I can piece a good one together from both of them. I'm assuming I'm doing pretty well for both of them for $400 total??


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

Redtenchu said:


> The JD will also have transport axels that stick out 3-4 inches on each side, you'll want to remove these if you plan to get close to any standing obstacles.


How do you move this thing from garage to yard with no transport axles? I do have a fence around the backyard so this would be an issue....


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

$400 is a great price for two mowers.

Rolling the drum across concrete is fine. It sounds terrible, but you won't hurt anything. I drive my Toro down a 36' sidewalk to get to the back yard and cross my driveway every time I mow.


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## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

Ware said:


> $400 is a great price for two mowers.
> 
> Rolling the drum across concrete is fine. It sounds terrible, but you won't hurt anything. I drive my Toro down a 36' sidewalk to get to the back yard and cross my driveway every time I mow.


+1


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

Here they are! One will not disengage the drive, but I believe it's just the parking brake needing to be tightened. Hopefully I can do that and will be ready to go. Other needs a new motor mount, something was dropped on the gas tank and the mount is bent making the pulleys not line up correctly. I got a bucket full of pulleys, 3 new bed-knives, new betls, etc. Paid $440.



Any idea where to get the mount from?


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

So tightened the brake and that stops the pulleys from spinning and making the drive engage automatically. However, when I release the brake, drive DISENGAGED it still tries to dive forward. Here's a couple of pictures. Is anything missing where I circled? That is where the drive lever cable pulls on the tensioner to engage the drive roller. Also here is a picture of the belts with it running, parking brake on, drive disengaged.



Obviously, for some reason when it is running the belts are still grabbing the pulleys to the drive unit even with drive disengaged. They seem loose enough with the tensioner off of them. Ideas?


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Kustrud said:


> Any idea where to get the mount from?


Sign up for an account at https://jdparts.deere.com

From there you can access online parts catalogs/diagrams, and even order parts through your nearest JD golf dealer.

I think there are some other parts suppliers mentioned in the JD Greens Mower thread.

I'm moving this thread over to the Equipment subforum.


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

Ware said:


> Kustrud said:
> 
> 
> > Any idea where to get the mount from?
> ...


Thanks for moving it, sorry bout that!


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Kustrud said:


> Thanks for moving it, sorry bout that!


No worries. There are cool season members with greens mowers too that may not check the warm season subforum much.


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

After looking at parts diagram looks like I am missing a spring to keep tension off of the drive belts which would explain everything.


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

That's not it......drive still will not engage, disengage correctly.

Like the belts are too long or too short or something. Very simple system in how it operates, I just cant wrap my head around it yet.


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## J_nick (Jan 28, 2017)

So it won't engage or disengage? How do you know it won't disengage if it won't engage?


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

Basically nothing changes haha.. WIth it "disengaged" it is still driving the drive pulleys. With it "engaged" nothing really changes and it doesn't ever engage fully. I **can** stop it with my hands.

I just dropped it off Reel Works. Prob be around $100 to set it all up for me. Save me some time.

I'll update you on that one when they get back to me.

For the other - I need a motor mounting plate as this one is bent.

The link Ware sent has a lot of parts, but not that one haha. Any ideas?

EDIT: Ware's link has it


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## ABC123 (Jul 14, 2017)

R&R is also a great place for parts. But you do need the part number first


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ABC123 said:


> R&R is also a great place for parts. But you do need the part number first


+1


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

Gah this is frustrating, went through signing up on the site you mentioned Ware, and found all the parts I needed. In the end, says the dealer near me does not support ordering online or something.

Here's message I got.


R&R doesn't show the motor base I need either. They just have rollers and bed knife, etc. Few things like that.

Never had anythign JD before, I now see why it's difficult to get parts.

Here's what I need.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

R&R won't stock the specialty parts for JD - look there for "consumable" parts like belts, bedknife, etc.

Is the JD dealer near you a "golf dealer"? Not all JD dealerships are equal. You'll have to find the closest one that sells JD golf equipment to get those parts. FWIW, the closest one to me is in Stillwater, OK (200 miles away). They will ship/drop ship though.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Go check out this JD thread. It list where to buy parts from. JD mowers. I also posted info on how to get the technical manual and some cross reference parts.

Now that you have the part number, google search for it. You might find a use one on ebay. Pete1313 pointed me to this website: www.greenfarmparts.com They offer free shipping and it is the same store I buy stuff from (5miles from my house).

Here is your part: https://www.greenfarmparts.com/SearchResults.asp?search=AMT2839


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Also, I think I mentioned this but be sure and read the JD reel mower thread for great resources like...



g-man said:


> I found this website with a lot of the technical manuals for JD mowers in pdf format all in one easy to find table. There is other info in the website like part cross-reference.
> 
> http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual





g-man said:


> I found this pdf with a cross reference of JD parts to standard bearings part numbers. In some cases it is a significant saving, on others the JD price is cheaper. Some of these you could read the bearing number printed on the part after you take it out and clean it, but using this list allows to order the part ahead of time.
> 
> http://www.techsales-golfcoursedivision.com/product-price-guide-14.pdf





Pete1313 said:


> I use greenfarmparts.com to get my JD parts. good prices, quick shipping.


Leverage the insight of those who have come before you. :thumbup:


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

Great info. thanks guys! Time to do some digging!


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## Pete1313 (May 3, 2017)

Congrats on your new mowers! Regarding the issue with the drive always engaged, did you try adjusting the drive belt tension? There is a fine adjustment that involves adjusting the cable but is most likely not the issue. Sounds like you need to do the coarse belt adjustment procedure which involves loosening the engine mounting bolts and sliding the engine to loosen the belt to specification.

http://manuals.deere.com/omview/OMTCU37245_19/?tM=

Check out section 50 and click on 
Drive Belt Tension Check and Adjustment
Owners manual is for a SL, but should be identical to the B


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## Pete1313 (May 3, 2017)

And here is the owners manual for your 260B.

http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMMT7384_K5/Output/Index.html?tM=HO


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

Great find!! I just realized what the problem is. I noticed the pulley on the crank of the motor looked new. I also noticed I had an old pulley in a bucket he gave me. After looking at the instructions on the manual page you sent, it looks like he put a smaller pulley on the crank to try and change the speed of the mower. No wonder it's a complete mess!!!

The belts are nowhere near the "belt guide" and in the manual they're almost touching. All makes sense now. I need to go to Reel Works tomorrow and show my findings!!

Thanks a ton! I knew something wasn't right!


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## Pete1313 (May 3, 2017)

No problem, here to help! Whether you leave the new pulley on, or replace it with the old, I'm almost certain the coarse adjustment should fix the issue.


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

Just double checked the other mower, bingo! Thanks again for posting that, those pics made me realize!!

I noticed the key-way in the pulley in the bucket and shaft size fits that HP motor typically. Pulley on the crank is only thing that looks brand new. He was trying to slow down the travel speed of the mower. Think of a mountain bike, smaller sprocket upfront on pedals is easier to pedal yields slower speed. Larger is harder to pedal yields higher speed. This is why nothing lines up! BINGO!

It would have never worked correctly with the smaller pulley he put on. Belt guide is WAY too far from ever keeping them down on the pulleys.

Sorry for the redundancy, it all just clicked!!

I'd have never figured this out without seeing that old pulley and your link to the manual with pics!


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

Pete1313 said:


> No problem, here to help! Whether you leave the new pulley on, or replace it with the old, I'm almost certain the coarse adjustment should fix the issue.


I tried that earlier, both ways and several in between. Al good now, I'm 99% sure what I posted above will correct this.

I'll update tomorrow after trying.


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## Pete1313 (May 3, 2017)

Strange that whoever had it before would want to slow it down even more with a smaller pulley. I felt like my old 220SL was really slow when on low throttle and couldn't imagine anyone wanting it to go slower, unless there was a carb issue and wouldn't run on low throttle... but a carb fix would be easier then messing with the pulleys. Clip rate is fixed to drum speed by the gearbox and sprockets in the side cover so changing that pulley wouldn't affect that... sorry, just theorizing why anyone would mess with the pulleys. Glad you figured out the issue!


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

Pete1313 said:


> Strange that whoever had it before would want to slow it down even more with a smaller pulley. I felt like my old 220SL was really slow when on low throttle and couldn't imagine anyone wanting it to go slower, unless there was a carb issue and wouldn't run on low throttle... but a carb fix would be easier then messing with the pulleys. Clip rate is fixed to drum speed by the gearbox and sprockets in the side cover so changing that pulley wouldn't affect that... sorry, just theorizing why anyone would mess with the pulleys. Glad you figured out the issue!


I know, who knows lol! Glad I was able to piece this together though!


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

ALright so I should have one of the 260's up and running today ready to cut! Thing is, I am unsure about whether to keep my TruCut or switch to one of these! I know it's a better mower and I know it'll cut even better than the Tru Cut but ai have two main concerns.

In most spots, my yard is lower than the driveway/sidewalk - will this be an issue as I obviously do not want to hit concrete and completely ruin this mower with a costly fix!

My strip of grass between the sidewalk and the street - same concern there about hitting concrete.

The TruCut is just wide enough to cover the whole strip so no issues with it. I can also Get it up right against the concrete and it will not hit because of the frame/bedknife design.

Any opinions are appreciated - I'd love to switch to a greens mower but just making sure it is practical.

**I only have room for one**


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

That is ultimately a decision you will have to make, and you have the unique benefit of using both on your own lawn until you figure out what will work best for you. :thumbup:


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

Kustrud said:


> ALright so I should have one of the 260's up and running today ready to cut! Thing is, I am unsure about whether to keep my TruCut or switch to one of these! I know it's a better mower and I know it'll cut even better than the Tru Cut but ai have two main concerns.
> 
> In most spots, my yard is lower than the driveway/sidewalk - will this be an issue as I obviously do not want to hit concrete and completely ruin this mower with a costly fix!
> 
> ...


My lawn is also lower than my driveway/curb in most spots and I'm able to run the front roller right up near the edge with no worry of smacking the concrete. I would recommend a dry run at it, just try to drive the mower near the edges with the reel off and see how practical it may be.


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

Ware said:


> That is ultimately a decision you will have to make, and you have the unique benefit of using both on your own lawn until you figure out what will work best for you. :thumbup:


Very true!


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## Kustrud (Jun 23, 2017)

MasterMech said:


> Kustrud said:
> 
> 
> > ALright so I should have one of the 260's up and running today ready to cut! Thing is, I am unsure about whether to keep my TruCut or switch to one of these! I know it's a better mower and I know it'll cut even better than the Tru Cut but ai have two main concerns.
> ...


Will do that!


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