# Irrigtion Install



## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

So i've read through the irrigation tutorials, came up with a design, and ordered all the parts. Now I just need to do the Install. My question is do people who have done this themselves have any tips or advise? I couldn't find any summary write up like there is for some of the other topics. Particularly do i need to use teflon tape to screw the head to the riser and the rest of the piping? How deep should I dig the trenches? Leave the Nozzles off until the heads are installed and flushed? Should I lay everything out then dig trenches or wait till the trenches are dug and assemble head by head?



P.S. Im using all bluloc piping and fittings and Hunter heads and rotors to make things easier.


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## b0nk3rs (Aug 21, 2017)

Really looking forward to this thread.....keep us updated with lots of pictures!

Join the Discord server if you want some supplemental conversation on the topic. https://discord.gg/6GrJv6V


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I dont think we have a tutorial yet. I think we have a list of tutorials to write (reno, overseed, irrigation practices, irrigation install, ...)

1) call 811 and get the lines marked.
2) A couple of days prior, get a can of spray paint and measure/mark the locations of all the heads. I also use a small shovel or pluger to make a 4in hole at the head locations. 4in heads need around 7in hole depth (head plus fitting).
3) Mark your trench path or use a shovel to start the trenches.
4) Test your first run to make sure no leaks prior to covering the trench. Once your confident, then I dont test them.
5) No tape needed. Even if it leaks a little bit on a lateral, it is ok since it is water going to the soil (what you want).
6) keep the blue cap on the heads and test run with them. It protects the thread and helps with cleaning the pipes when you flush.
7) 8 inches deep. Try not to have a too low point (that water has to travel up) mid pipe so it is easier to blow in the winter.
8) I assemble as I go.
9) You will end up with more dirt than what you started and will need to dispose of it.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

As always, g-man to the rescue. Thanks! I'll post updates once I get going on it.


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## STL (Jul 14, 2018)

I'm almost doing the exact same DIY set up, MP rotator and Blue Lock, except yours is about twice as many heads. Please do post updates and pics.

For connecting the bodies to the laterals are you using cut off risers? I'm leading towards the the swing joints myself for more adjustment, but don't really know what's best.

http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Blu-Lock-Fitting-p/blj410-005.htm


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I like the Flexible Arm Swing Risers as described in irrigation tutorials. The 1/2in funny pipe from rain bird is great for this. The flow to the MP is so small that the 1/2in is more than enough.

https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/types-of-sprinkler-risers/


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

This is what I have planned. 1/2" blulock to fipt elbow with a cut off riser going to the head. Should give me the flexibility of the pipe to move the head around and the long riser will help keep the head vertical and locked in place. That's the idea anyways


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## unclebucks06 (Apr 25, 2018)

Those are going to break more often. Use the rainbird funny pipe as gman said. Its cheap compared to all that pipe you bought.


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## STL (Jul 14, 2018)

Something like this is what I had in mind.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

unclebucks06 said:


> Those are going to break more often. Use the rainbird funny pipe as gman said. Its cheap compared to all that pipe you bought.


Why would they break more often?


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## Delmarva Keith (May 12, 2018)

Does a swing joint have any major advantages over funny pipe? I've always used funny pipe.

The rigid risers remind me of the 70's


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## Delmarva Keith (May 12, 2018)

OnyxsLawn said:


> unclebucks06 said:
> 
> 
> > Those are going to break more often. Use the rainbird funny pipe as gman said. Its cheap compared to all that pipe you bought.
> ...


Rigid risers are brittle compared to funny pipe. Movement of the head will snap rigid risers where the funny pipe can move with forces applied to the head by, e.g., frost heave or equipment running over them. Rigid risers are also a PITA when the time comes to raise the heads (when, not if).


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## STL (Jul 14, 2018)

OnyxsLawn said:


> unclebucks06 said:
> 
> 
> > Those are going to break more often. Use the rainbird funny pipe as gman said. Its cheap compared to all that pipe you bought.
> ...


I'm definitely no expert, but my understanding from gmans link above is that when force is applied to the head, like a mower running over it, the force needs to go through the stack of cut off risers before it hits the flexibility of the pipe. That may be too much for the cutoff risers since they are also decided to be a first point of failure so the sprinkler isn't damaged. Whereas with a more direct connection to the funny pipe/blu lock 1/2", the force is transferred more directly to the flexible pipe and it flexes rather than snaps.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

So taking the riser out and connecting the head directly to the funny pipe would be best? Or is swing joint (http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Blu-Lock-Fitting-p/blj410-005.htm) required so the downward force is distributed through the joint and not the fittings?


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## Eric (Aug 15, 2017)

Or you could do something like this! I was just looking at them at Menards! Blu lock makes a connection they thread right into!
https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/watering-irrigation/underground-sprinkler-systems/underground-sprinkler-accessories/orbit-reg-1-2-x-12-multi-flex-riser/37320/p-1444450319203-c-8652.htm?tid=-817412416372175290&ipos=4

Otherwise I would just this on with the pipe going from the lateral to the head
https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/watering-irrigation/underground-sprinkler-systems/underground-sprinkler-accessories/orbit-reg-1-2x1-2-mpt-blu-lock-elbow/31970/p-1513236590700-c-8652.htm?tid=7702709066255296123&ipos=19


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## Eric (Aug 15, 2017)

Personally I'm thinking of using 2 of these, one on the head and one on the blulock connector!

https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/watering-irrigation/underground-sprinkler-systems/underground-sprinkler-accessories/rain-bird-1-2-barbed-x-1-2-mpt-swing-pipe-elbow/swge050s/p-1444451886736-c-8652.htm?tid=-6512167996603691421&ipos=49

Then this swing pipe from the head to the lateral
https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/watering-irrigation/drip-irrigation/drip-irrigation-tubing/rain-bird-100-swing-pipe-coil/n89505/p-1444451880306-c-8657.htm?tid=-507899382644752416&ipos=6

This of course is if I decide to use blu lock. It can't be used for the mainline or anything under constant pressur


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

^ I use those two plus one of these to a poly pipe. https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/watering-irrigation/underground-sprinkler-systems/underground-sprinkler-accessories/dawn-industries-3-4-barb-x-swing/sw1429-099/p-1444428688807.htm

Also, for poly pipe, I don't use the irrigation one. I go one class higher. The price difference is super small, but it handles the burst pressure better.


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## STL (Jul 14, 2018)

OnyxsLawn said:


> So taking the riser out and connecting the head directly to the funny pipe would be best? Or is swing joint (http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Blu-Lock-Fitting-p/blj410-005.htm) required so the downward force is distributed through the joint and not the fittings?


I would forgo the cut off risers and use the 1/2" blue lock x 1/2 mpt fittings you have now to attach the head to the 1/2" blu lock funny pipe. The swing joint you linked, as far as I know, just adds another rotational axis for adjustments. I don't know if they are really needed but for ~$0.40 more, that's what I'm leaning towards.


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## Eric (Aug 15, 2017)

g-man said:


> ^ I use those two plus one of these to a poly pipe. https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/watering-irrigation/underground-sprinkler-systems/underground-sprinkler-accessories/dawn-industries-3-4-barb-x-swing/sw1429-099/p-1444428688807.htm
> 
> Also, for poly pipe, I don't use the irrigation one. I go one class higher. The price difference is super small, but it handles the burst pressure better.


Is this the polypipe you use?


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

@STL I took the riser out and screwed the head directly to the elbow. If i buy more in the future i'll spend the extra 0.40 but I figure i'll use what i've got right now.


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## STL (Jul 14, 2018)

Looks good!


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

You're going to want some kind of flexible joint between the pipe.

Eliminating the threaded risers is absolutely the right move.

I have flexible swing joints and used threaded risers to raise some that needed raising and have had several break.

I'd highly suggest using some kind of flexible pipe and swing joint between the sprinkler and the supply line.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

So this is what I'm going with. 1/2" pex from the lateral lines to the right angle connector to the bottom of the head.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

That looks good. Is the blue lock compatible with PEX?


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Good question. I bought all blulock brand but its all just polyethylene. i've been using the 2 interchangeably as I have also been running pex inside. I'll bring a fitting next time I go to home depot and try it out on the normal pex.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Found this from an irrigation magazine.



> The new Blu-Lock fittings will work with both SIDR (standard inside diameter ratio)-1500- lb poly pipe and SIDR- 1980-lb pipe. Previously, Blu-Lock fittings were confined to use only with 100-lb pipe. This is a big change, because it eliminates one of the drawbacks to using Blu- Lock fittings. Previously, you could only use them with Hydro-Rain's proprietary blue poly pipe.
> 
> "The way it's worked before, our contractors and distributors were required to carry the Blu-Lock pipe along with the fittings," explains Hayes. "Now, the new fittings will be universal, and will work with anybody's pipe." Another feature will be that Blu-Lock fittings will not only slide on easily, they will come off just as easily, so mistakes can be corrected quickly.


It looks like you can use the Blu-lock with other pex brands. Sprinkler warehouse actually has better prices for blu-lock than I could find on pex at the local hardware. But if you are in a pinch and need some more pipe it looks like anyone's pex will work.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Poly pipe is not the same as PEX.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Fair warning: If you order from sprinkler warehouse they still send some of the V1 of blu-lock fittings which do not release and aren't reusable. They don't stock the correct parts nor will they refund for the mistake.  The V1 is identified by an all blue outside the V2 and V3 are black on the outside.


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## STL (Jul 14, 2018)

@OnyxsLawn the blue v1 ones will come off but it's much more difficult and the teeth will scratch up the pipe some. Try squeezing the open section of the release tool around the pipe so the two ends are as close as you can get them then push it into the fitting. Once it's in there, you have to twist and pull to get it out.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

I couldn't manage to get it out even after cutting it and pulling with pliers. Good to know it is possible though. Luckily I had some extras and will be a little more careful when I put them on from now on.


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## Rule11 (May 5, 2018)

I like to make my own swing joints. That way I can make as long or short as needed. Roll of funny pipe and 1 male x female Treaded elbow and 2 male tread x slip barb per pop up head. Irrigation install is a breeze. Don't worry about much because plastic is easy to fix and alter if mistakes are made. Just remember any main line that is under constant pressure use pipe primer and glue. Zone line not so much of a worry. Just glue.

Just go for it!!


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## Rule11 (May 5, 2018)

Also it is a good practice to install a master valve after the DCVA " double check valve assembly " and before any zone manifold if you have multiple zone manifolds


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Good tips to keep in mind, but I only have 1 manifold for now so i'm safe. @Rule11 What is the purpose of the valve before the manifold?

We've been traveling a lot but I managed to tap into the main last night and get all the plumbing done out to the box.



A bit of a challenge removing the old pipe without a second set of hands but ratchet strap to the rescue.





This is one of the only projects I've done that worked out how i expected it to. Now I just need to go finish digging trenches.


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## Rule11 (May 5, 2018)

OnyxsLawn said:


> Good tips to keep in mind, but I only have 1 manifold for now so i'm safe. @Rule11 What is the purpose of the valve before the manifold?
> 
> We've been traveling a lot but I managed to tap into the main last night and get all the plumbing done out to the box.
> 
> ...


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

All 23 sprinklers are in and functional. I bailed on doing the strip next to the driveway because it was too much work to tunnel under the driveway and there are a ton of roots on that side i'd be fighting the whole way. turned it into a flower bed instead.
I ended up ordering the next size up MPs because it was a little short on complete head to head coverage on the main part of the yard. 
The upgrade from the mp strips to 12 8' rotators was expensive but the coverage is perfect and I can now park along my curb without my car getting soaked. 
The Blu-Lock pipe was nice to have and made connections easy with the caveat that the black v3 pop on and off easily and the blue v1 are a wrestling match in a trench to get them in and next to impossible to get out because they aren't designed for it.


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## STL (Jul 14, 2018)

Nice job! Still working on getting mine done, but really liking the blu lock so far. It saved me some headache a couple times when I had to make adjustments on the fly.

I ended up ditching the v1 fittings because they're such a pain in the @ss. For future reference Drip Depot sells all v3 fittings if you ever need more.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

@STL Good to know. I've been looking for a better place to buy Blu-Lock fittings and MP rotators that doesn't provide the old fittings and take forever to ship. I'll be doing the back yard next year (and renting a trencher for it) and I'm not dealing with sprinkler warehouse anymore.


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## b0nk3rs (Aug 21, 2017)

Drip Depot is my go-to. They even send you suckers, magnets, and free mp rotator tool with every purchase.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

So I noticed yesterday while watching my sprinklers go that some of the nozzles rotate faster than others? is this normal? just a function of the pattern of the nozzle?


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## STL (Jul 14, 2018)

@OnyxsLawn not exactly sure if it's normal, but I think it is. Some of mine are spinning slower too, especially the ones that I adjusted the radius down some.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

On the MP, what makes them rotate is the flow of the water. The nozzle has a grease (similar to the one used in car radio buttons) that prevents (dampens) the rotation. If you reduce the flow, you will reduce the rotation, but it is delivering the correct precipitation rate.


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## Delmarva Keith (May 12, 2018)

OnyxsLawn said:


> So I noticed yesterday while watching my sprinklers go that some of the nozzles rotate faster than others? is this normal? just a function of the pattern of the nozzle?


For MP Rotators at least, the longer the throw distance, the slower the rotation. That is normal.


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## 7474 (Aug 20, 2018)

Late to this thread, but I hope you wet down the dirt as you were backfilling. I learned the hard way that there will be A LOT, I mean A LOT, of settling the first several times you run the system or there is a soaking rain.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

I used the water from testing the setup and from flushing the lines to get everything nice and wet. after that i walked the trenches when they were about half full to compact the dirt around the lines then filled in the rest of the way and used a roller and rake to get everything smooth. hopefully it stays that way. I plan on having to level again in the spring though.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

So i'm having problems with one of my zones. when first turned on the heads don't pop up and just spew water into the dirt. If i turn them off and then back on they'll pop up just fine. any ideas what i need to look at to fix it?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I would start with the valve / solenoid. It might not be opening on the first try.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

So I ended up getting a few new valves to keep around for spares and replace the one on the zone thats having problems and rebuild the old one. problem is removing a valve is quite a pain when you don't plan for that when you install the box. If I did this again I would take the laterals out of the valve with an elbow so that you can utilize the flexibility of the blu-lock piping to easily swap valves. Because now I'm waiting on a new coupling to get that zone back up.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

It is easier to swap the internals of the valve than replacing the whole valve.


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