# Soil Test results - suggestions/recommendations



## NothingMan (Sep 25, 2018)

Evening all...Below is the links to my soil tests, I did a front yard and back yard. I'm hoping to get more of a specific analysis then supplied by the lab as I know they are general recommendations based on the numbers and not what I recently did to my lawn.

My Yard:
Approx 5000 sq ft, in Northern NJ, mix of ryes/fescues/kbg

Few things I would like to point out:
1) 9/16/18 - Aerate, Dethatch, & Reno Seed and over seed. My lawn was very thin and took a beating this summer, I overseeded half and the other half was almost a reno. 
2) 9/17/18 - Dropped Scotts Starter Turf Builder that I had left over from other year 24-25-4

Few Specific questions when making recommendations:
1) Be mindful of 1/2 reno and over seeding, I'm unable to target drop the fertilizer as the damaged / reno areas are scattered about my lawn.
2) I need to lime (I believe), but when/how can that be down without burning/damaging the new grass?

The results came in PDF 4 pages.
https://ufile.io/xn6gt
https://ufile.io/emg2d

Screenshot Image of just results



Thanks in advance!


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Welcome to TLF.

Great questions. One thing I need some clarity is when was the sample taken relative to your fertilizer applications? I'm trying to assess if the P value (very high) is real or was affected by a recent application.

What I can say now it that you do need lime. Your pH is low. The recommend a total of 145 lb of dolomitic lime /1ksqft. You can't apply all of it at once. Per their instructions, 50lb/ksqft in 6 months apart. You want the lime to work itself into the soil before the soil freezes in the winter.


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## NothingMan (Sep 25, 2018)

Thanks and look forward to being here...

So the sample was taken PRIOR to dropping the fertilizer. Not sure why the P is so high. I do have my prior sample from last year (looked at it now and my Mehlich III P was 645 and 720 which seems extremely high, no?) I haven't dropped anything since Aug 1 (which was a 15-0-10 and SoP) based on recommendation from my last years soil test.

So with the lime, I have Encap Fast Acting Lime, which I also have been using over last season, can that be dropped at 50lb/ksqft on top of the newly planted grass (9/17) without any burning? The label says if the pH is 5-5.5 i use 90lbs/5ksqft. I ask, because between my overseeding/thin lawn and the total bare spots, I wouldn't be able to avoid areas. Seems like a lot of lime, is the math different if using Encap? Because they are recommending 145lbs p/ksqft and i have 5000 sq ft..

Thanks!


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

The math/qty is different between fast acting and regular lime. The regular stuff takes longer to to break down, but you can apply more at once. I'm not sure how the fast acting will affect the soil (assuming it is fatser, then the localized pH would be higher) on a young lawn. Unless someone else chimes in with more experience of the fast acting and Reno, I would not use it this year.

Some areas have high p naturally. Since your previous test were high, then lets not add more. That means no Milo, bay or bikosolids fertilizers. You are also good on iron.

You will need potassium to raise your ppm to 150 and maintain it there. SOP (0-0-50) is the ideal choice and start on it next year. The members in the hometown section will help you find it locally. Apply no more than 1lb of potassium per 1ksqft per rolling month in the growing season.

Other than the lime, you are good.


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## NothingMan (Sep 25, 2018)

Great! Thanks, so I'll hold of on the lime until next season. appreciate the quick response and advice.


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## Jconnelly6b (Mar 4, 2018)

At what depth did you take your *soil sample? Depth of sample plays a large role in soil test P and may be why yours is high. Check out this discussion earlier this month on that.

I would also suggest if you want to get down some lime this season, you can put down either Mag-i-Cal from Jonathan Green (I have used for years) or the Sta-Green rapid lime from Lowe's. Both are calcium based which you are deficient in as well, and shouldn't give your seedlings any issue. I would wait until your 2nd mow and then throw it down. Use what you have on hand in the spring.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

@NothingMan 
Soil acidity is due to soil hydrogen content. It's the carbonate component of lime that neutralizes the hydrogen and allows the pH to raise. "Fast acting" works quickly primarily due to its being more finely ground (greater % of the limestone particles will pass through a 100, 200 or even 300 mesh screen- more machining = more expense) whereas other less expensive lime products are somewhat coarser ground (will pass through a 20 up to a 100 mesh. Most products contain a high percentage that will pass through a 60). Fine particles present more surface area and dissolve quicker than coarser particles, but whether you use fine ground ("fast acting") or coarse ground lime, you're still going to need the same total amount of lime (carbonate) to reach the desired pH. You can either apply 150# of "fast acting" lime in small quantities every 6-9 weeks (spoon feeding) or you can apply 150# of the cheaper lime at the rate of 50# every 6 months. In two years, your final pH will be the same. Basically, it's a choice between fast release or slow release (just like N fertilizers). The reason that you should only apply fast acting lime in small quantities at a time is that it dissolves so quickly that it will raise the pH of the top layer of soil drastically, which can have an adverse effect on nutrient availability (and possibly micro-life) in that top layer.
You're low in both calcium and magnesium. A calcitic lime will help raise Ca, but you will need to use another amendment for Mg. Dolomitic lime will supply both, but it will change pH slower (extra 3-6 months longer than calcitic lime to get to the same pH.
Hope that helps.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

I should clarify that although carbonate is the most common chemical used to raise pH, there are other products/chemicals that will raise pH. For instance, "hot lime" (calcium oxide CaO). This was a common soil amendment when I was young. Like carbonate, It also interacts to neutralize hydrogen, however, it is highly corrosive and can damage "burn" living cells, so it is not currently a common amendment (although some lime manufacturers add it to raise their product's CCE - see Pennington Fast Acting Lime analysis).


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## NothingMan (Sep 25, 2018)

Thanks all! Appreciate the feedback and advice! Especially nice to get it in a non condescending way without any sarcasm...


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

@NothingMan More important, have you gotten the information necessary for you to proceed? Is there more that you need? Application rates? Product options? If so, keep asking.


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## NothingMan (Sep 25, 2018)

Ridgerunner said:


> @NothingMan More important, have you gotten the information necessary for you to proceed? Is there more that you need? Application rates? Product options? If so, keep asking.


No Sir.. think that helps me out a lot and with your clarification between the limes, and what I have on hand, I'll drop a fast acting lime now maybe about 40lbs (i have left), then in spring I'll buy and throw some dolomitic lime for the Mg. supplement and start with the SOP again too.

I guess last question would be a winter fertilizer, based on my deficit lawn anything specific to drop? I'll drop the lime this week and wait 2-3 weeks before the fertilizer.

Thanks again!


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

> I guess last question would be a winter fertilizer, based on my deficit lawn anything specific to drop? I'll drop the lime this week and wait 2-3 weeks before the fertilizer.


Sorry for the delay. For future reference, if you've already applied lime, it is best practice to apply N fertilizer a week or so prior to applying lime. The reason is that lime removes hydrogen from the soil and many forms of N (like urea) need soil hydrogen content to convert ammonia into ammonium otherwise a portion of the N as ammonia gas can dissipate into the atmosphere and be lost. Some estimates are as high as 30-40% of the N can be lost to gassing off. The only harm is that you end up getting a little less N from your fertilizer application. Using a nitrate or an ammonium fertilizer can help avoid that loss.


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