# Advice on third fungicide to rotate



## Ryan1+2 (Oct 16, 2018)

I have been battling GLS, leaf spot, dollar spot and maybe even some brown patch since my Reno last fall.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=6675

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10063&start=20

I have only been rotating 2 fungicides and looking to put a third one in the mix. Preferably not extremely expensive and granular. Looking for suggestions. So far I have been using scotts azoxystrobin (disease ex)black flag propiconazole 1.43%(hose end sprayer). Just recently I applied Azoxy 2sc for the first time. I was looking on domyown website at headway G, pillar G and Clearys 3336 DG Lite. Of course I'm open to any other suggestions than the ones that I listed. Any help is as always much appreciated! Thanks.


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## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

Check out the fungicide guide linked in my signature. I would recommend a 3rd MOA instead of buying the same groups in different brands.


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## uts (Jul 8, 2019)

Any reason to not go sprayable? Seems you have a decent size lawn would def be cheaper!


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## mowww (Jan 16, 2018)

I made this chart by combining NCSU and Kentucky data on various compounds with 1 being low efficacy and 4 being excellent efficacy:


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## Ryan1+2 (Oct 16, 2018)

uts said:


> Any reason to not go sprayable? Seems you have a decent size lawn would def be cheaper!


Mainly because granular is easier to apply. I only have a 2 gallon sprayer. It's doable but it was a process that took me 3 nights to complete.


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## uts (Jul 8, 2019)

^^ I realize the pain but did you do a cost analysis of granular vs liquid and if you could invest in a backpack sprayer- 4 gallons on a quality battery backpack will reduce your time significantly.

I was looking at the same option and the application rate for headway G/heritahd is at least 2lbs/1ksq ft that lead to 40lbs. So one 30lb bag at least skipping places and 83 bucks .. I would start crying.


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## uts (Jul 8, 2019)

Azoxy wdg was 0.2oz/1ksqft so 20k would be 4oz which should be about 40 bucks.. that's just rough calculations.

These obviously are calculations for blanket applications but you get the idea.


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## Ryan1+2 (Oct 16, 2018)

So it looks like my next best option for a third MOA would be Thiophanate-methyl.
That will give me groups 1, 3 and 11. Looks like that will help with brown patch and dollar spot but not GLS Or leaf spot.


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## mowww (Jan 16, 2018)

Ryan1+2 said:


> So it looks like my next best option for a third MOA would be Thiophanate-methyl.
> That will give me groups 1, 3 and 11. Looks like that will help with brown patch and dollar spot but not GLS Or leaf spot.


T-methyl is one of the best performers on the market for GLS


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## Ryan1+2 (Oct 16, 2018)

mowww said:


> Ryan1+2 said:
> 
> 
> > So it looks like my next best option for a third MOA would be Thiophanate-methyl.
> ...


I see that now. I must have been looking at the wrong column on the chat posted above. Thanks for the correction.


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## Ryan1+2 (Oct 16, 2018)

Picked up 2 7.5lb. bags of bonide infuse granular at local hardware store for $17 each. It is T-Methyl so I got my 3rd MOA. I applied at a preventative rate which covered 10,000M. I can see this is going to be pricey to be continuously using fungicide. I may have to ease up on it.


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## Babameca (Jul 29, 2019)

Ryan1+2 said:


> I have been battling GLS, leaf spot, dollar spot and maybe even some brown patch since my Reno last fall.
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=6675
> 
> ...


Did you try to get to the root cause to your problem. Most fungus goes away when the cause os removed (of course by following a specific regiment for some time).
M


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## tgreen (Oct 20, 2018)

gergelybg said:


> Ryan1+2 said:
> 
> 
> > I have been battling GLS, leaf spot, dollar spot and maybe even some brown patch since my Reno last fall.
> ...


The root cause for a lot of us is low temps that don't get below 70F for 3 months straight or so. Leaf wetness for 12+ hours from high humidity is common. Do you get these conditions in Montreal?


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## 440mag (Jan 29, 2018)

mowww said:


> I made this chart by combining NCSU and Kentucky data on various compounds with 1 being low efficacy and 4 being excellent efficacy:


Hey, mowww! Now THAT is MUCH APPRECIATED (and with no mean amount of admiration, too)!

Would you consider posting it to the "_Fungicide Guide_" thread, started by member Suburban Jungle Life?

Again, Thank YOU! :thumbup:


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## Babameca (Jul 29, 2019)

tgreen said:


> gergelybg said:
> 
> 
> > Ryan1+2 said:
> ...


We do get similar, but for way shorter period. Few weeks max. I have seen some fungus making its way on some spots, but always goes away after some time.
M


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## Ryan1+2 (Oct 16, 2018)

So when the GLS originally start it shortly after Reno last fall I believe it was due to bad watering practices. I was still watering short intervals multiple times a day like I had been during seed germanation. During this spring I didn't water at all because I didn't mean to with all the rain. I just started watering again a few weeks ago since we haven't had any rain. I water deep about every 10 days. The last month has been really humid but that is slowing down now. I took these pictures this morning. Does this still look like leaf spot?


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## Ryan1+2 (Oct 16, 2018)

Can compaction contribute to fungus? I noticed this morning while moving my sprinklers around I have a lot of areas where the spike is very hard to push into the ground. I can't push spike in more than 3 inches at most, some areas it's only 2 inches.


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## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

440mag said:


> mowww said:
> 
> 
> > I made this chart by combining NCSU and Kentucky data on various compounds with 1 being low efficacy and 4 being excellent efficacy:
> ...


The guide is color coded for efficacy. I thought about adding a chart to the first post but it's already insanely long. What would you suggest?


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## tgreen (Oct 20, 2018)

Ryan1+2 said:


> So when the GLS originally start it shortly after Reno last fall I believe it was due to bad watering practices. I was still watering short intervals multiple times a day like I had been during seed germanation. During this spring I didn't water at all because I didn't mean to with all the rain. I just started watering again a few weeks ago since we haven't had any rain. I water deep about every 10 days. The last month has been really humid but that is slowing down now. I took these pictures this morning. Does this still look like leaf spot?


Ryan, I remember corresponding with you last year when I was dealing with gray leaf spot. Youre pictures do not look like GLS. Here are some pics of confirmed GLS on tall fescue from my lawn last year. The blades in the pics are chewed up b/c I had just run a power rake to deal with all the dead grass.


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## Ryan1+2 (Oct 16, 2018)

I haven't seen any signs of GLS since spring. I am a little anxious that it may return this fall when night time Temps go lower. I was thinking what I have in these current pictures is regular Leaf Spot but I'm not sure.


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## 440mag (Jan 29, 2018)

Suburban Jungle Life said:


> The guide is color coded for efficacy. I thought about adding a chart to the first post but it's already insanely long. What would you suggest?


Oh! I didn't mean to suggest anything be added to the data table which is the first post of that thread !  :shock:

I only meant for him (her?) to post it to that last / most recent page in that thread! :thumbup:


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