# Can I connect this pvc together?



## Hat (May 26, 2020)

So I had a sprinkler head that wasn't working. Dug up the area to find a pvc reduced to a ½ threaded connection attached to a 12 inch piece of funny pipe that was creased attached to another ½ threaded pvc attached to a 2" pvc attached to a threaded ¾" T attached to 2" pvc. The sprinkler wasn't working because no water could flow through the bent funny pipe. So I can put in a couple threaded ends with smaller funny pipe but is there a reason not to just connect the pvc together and get rid of the threaded reduced pvc and funnypipe all together and then just attach the sprinkler head to the ¾" T?


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## TSGarp007 (May 22, 2018)

That's confusing, but I guess someone used the funny pipe because straight pipe PVC repair can be tricky? Definitely better ways to go about it like you are thinking.


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## hsvtoolfool (Jul 23, 2018)

Hat said:


> ...but is there a reason not to just connect the pvc together...


This is what a correct irrgation repair should look like...



Since the existing pipe ends can't be moved, it's impossible to simply cut a short piece of pipe and glue or screw the fittings together. You simply don't have room to work between the pipe ends.

So you must "bypass" a short distance to gain a little working room between the pipe ends. The order you glue the 90° elbows together is critical. Think about it and tell me how you'd do it.  It's actually pretty easy to pull off.

It's also possible to use two PVC "union couplings" to make a straight-line repair. But these fittings are relatively expensive and use rubber gaskets to seal. The gaskets don't last more than a few years and must be replaced. So I don't think they should be used for direct-burial applications...


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## TSGarp007 (May 22, 2018)

@hsvtoolfool that's the way i've done it also. Although they also sell these flexible PVC repair sections, and other like it. This one's got some good reviews overall, but I've never used anything like it. Some reviews indicate maybe not so good at constant pressure.


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## dubyadubya87 (Mar 10, 2020)

I recently had to gut and redo all four of my valves and used the Orbit brand couplings. Expensive, but so far worth it for the ease of install.


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## TSGarp007 (May 22, 2018)

Oh yeah I forgot about those. My valves have PVC-LOCK manifolds (hydrorain). It works well but you really have to get the pipe in straight the first time.


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## hsvtoolfool (Jul 23, 2018)

Don't use any type of flex-pipe for mainline repairs between the curb and valves. It's not rated for constant-pressure. Flex pipe is obviously fine for secondary lines between the valves and sprinklers. They never see higher pressure than the sprinkler head; or only about 40 PSI on average.

Personally, I would only use a permanent slip/slip glue-joint for buried pipe. At least that Dura Corp flex-pipe @TSGarp007 linked is a glue-up joint. But I'd never use Orbit "PVC-Lock", any "Shark Bite" variant, or similar "glueless" joints for buried repairs. Rubber gaskets always degrade and fail over time. The cost difference of the parts is not important. It's such a huge pain to go back later and fix it again.

PVC glue is nothing to be feared. You should always keep an 8 oz. Oatey two-pack around the house for emergency repairs. If you've never used PVC glue, watch any one of a million videos and you'll be fine. The hardest part for any buried repair is the digging, followed by cleaning the mud off the pipe ends.


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## TSGarp007 (May 22, 2018)

I've got 1,000' of Blu-lock pipe with push fittings in my yard. Check back in 10 years I guess for an update...


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## Slim 1938 (Aug 24, 2019)

Use a slip coupling. Theyre awesome and super easy to use.


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## hsvtoolfool (Jul 23, 2018)

TSGarp007 said:


> I've got 1,000' of Blu-lock pipe with push fittings in my yard. Check back in 10 years I guess for an update...


My personal experience with similar push-lock products makes me distrust them under constant pressure, exposed to water hammer. A friend used Shark-Bite when he replaced a water heater. It made quite a mess when it let go less than a year later. I know it's possible, but I've never heard of a PVC glue joint fail. It's cheap, quick, and easy without caveats.

Pex and push-lock systems makes no economic sense when a trencher is used. The material cost is much higher and any time saved over glue-up is negligible. The most time-consuming part of trenched irrigation is the digging and cleanup. The PVC glue-up is the relaxing, fun part.

The main advantage to a system like Pex or Blu-lock is the pipe can be installed using a pipe puller to avoid trenching and cleanup. Unlike Pex fittings, Blu-lock doesn't restrict flow and you don't need to use larger pipe sizes. In that scenario, the labor saved by a professional installer can easily offset the higher material costs compared to trenching and using PVC. Personally, I would still insist on a 1" Sch 40 PVC main line and glued PVC manifold to keep all the push-lock fittings away from constant pressure.


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## TSGarp007 (May 22, 2018)

Well push fittings have been around for decades at this point, but mainstream here in the U.S. for much less. They really have to be inserted properly and all the way to work well. I've used shark-bite numerous times (just homeowner DIY stuff) in the last 8 years and so far never had any issues. I had to convince myself by reading articles and forums that it might be ok... That being said I don't put them inside the walls, even though I think that's allowed in most places now. For underground I'm much less worried about damage, but the only place I used push fittings where there was any constant pressure was on one pvc-lock connected master valve for my system. There are several runs of PVC with glue fittings in my system (master line and some of the laterals where I wanted more than 3/4" pipes). But most of it is the blu-lock. Funny, I hated the PVC glueing... not because it was difficult, but just b/c it took so long. I just wanted to be done. Doing glue fittings alongside or in a trench is not my idea of a good or relaxing time. It was really crazy how quickly I could do the 'plumbing' portion of my zones once it was all blu-lock and sprinklers with the blu-lock adapter attached. So my time saved was not negligible, it was immense. Of course I still trenched... wasn't sure about pipe pullers and I have lots of roots in the way also. All that to finally say I agree, pvc slip fitting is probably the best way to do it.


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## hsvtoolfool (Jul 23, 2018)

I agree and I'm certainly not criticizing your install. No doubt push-fittings are adequate or they would have been forced out of business from lawsuits 10 years ago. I'm just gun shy. I've been a saltwater aquarium hobbyist for over 30 years, so I've been using PVC glue for very long time. No one taught me how to use it back in the 80s. PVC glue is pretty hard to screw up.

I consider my install "fast" because it took less than an hour to rough-in 26 heads. However, I had a helper for the rough-in. First, I assembled all the funny pipe risers and heads plus I laid out the pipe the night before. Second, I bulk ordered 20 foot Sch 40 pipe from a local plumbing house. These full-length pipes have a molded slip-fitting "bell" at one end. I was told by a plumber friend that these molded joints are better than couplings because is has more surface area and there's only one glue joint involved. So I actually didn't need too many couplings except for a few 90° elbows and a slip/thread at each funny pipe connection. Third, we didn't fret about perfect glue joints on the sprinkler side of the manifolds. We just slopped on heavy primer/glue, gave a little twist, and then held the joint together tightly for a few seconds until fused. Drop it and move on. You can be a little sloppy on the sprinkler side of the manifolds. There's zero water hammer issues and relatively trivial pressure (50 PSI in my system). My helper showed up around 10 AM and we were done with the rough-in by 11 AM.

On the other hand, I was careful assembling and gluing my mainline and manifold. I have 5 zones and designed an above-ground manifold that's (hopefully) future-proof and easy to rebuild when needed. So just my manifold and the immediate secondary lines going out to the sprinklers took an entire afternoon to finish. Most of my time and effort was spent fitting very short pipe lengths to get even, identical spacing for the valves.

But I still enjoyed the job. I sat on the ground under a canopy and dangled my feet down the hole while working in 105° F July 4th weekend heat. Sure, I may have been high from PVC glue fumes and suffering moderate heat exhaustion, but that just builds character.


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## TSGarp007 (May 22, 2018)

Yeah I had 10 ft normal sections of pipe. I wished I had 20' bell-end when I was working with it, just because it would have been faster. Used maybe 220' of 1.5" PVC total for the master line and part of two zones. Funny I intentionally waited to do my project in the winter b/c 4th of July heat would have killed me!


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## Hat (May 26, 2020)

THank you everyone for your advice. I ended up digging more so that I could move the pipes in order to do a straight in-line repair with just couplings, a small piece of pipe, and a new threaded tee for the swing pipe and sprinkler head. Used pvc primer and glue. Worked like a charm. Sorry, I forgot to take a photo of the finished product before I buried it.


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