# Fall Overseed/Reseed and Herbicide Disaster



## autospy (Aug 4, 2017)

I've been reading this forum and others since May of this year to plan a renovation and reseeding (9k sq feet) in Zone 7a. Been putting down milorganite per schedule since May. Got a soil test done, put down a little fast acting lime. OM % is low, but not much I can do with that. Been using 2,4-d/quinclorac/glyphosate as recommended in the forum to get rid of weeds/crabgrass and prepare renovation areas.

Plan was to put seed down last Sunday...and then boom a commercial contractor accidentally sprayed my yard with another herbicide. They mixed up my house with a new client -- don't know how that happens. They broadcasted Solitare (sulfentrazone + quinclorac) across the entire lawn. The label says - "Reseeding, overseeding or sprigging of treated areas within one (1) month after application of this product could inhibit the establishment of desirable turfgrasses. Slit seeding is recommended."

so my entire project is delayed until Sept 15ish. 50% chance of first frost is Oct 18, with 90% Nov 1.

1) I'm guessing that is probably too late for bluegrass in my zone. Is it too late for TTTF?

2) In my case, what is the fall nitrogen plan? I have access to Urea 46-0-0. My soil test calls for a little phosphorus, so I'm going to put down Scotts Starter w/ Mesotrione (tenacity) at seed down.

Thanks for the help and the great forum.


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

I'm gonna see if Matt Martin will chime in. In the meantime I would water heavy immediately.


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## thegrassfactor (Apr 12, 2017)

What did your Reno plan entail to maximize seed to soil contact? Aerating? Tilling? Slit seeding?

The sulfentrazone in the solitaire is the issue. It has a relatively long half life in the soil and can, and will, effect new seed.

That being said, turning the soil, watering it, and/or activated charcoal, or a heavy carbon based app (compost, biochar, etc) will all work to move it out closer to the 2 week range.

When it comes to fall fertilizer, push it heavy and hard to help any plants grow out any sustained damage post germination cycle. You may see it germinate and look sick. Spoon feed it with a 1/4lb every week for a month and it should pull out. But first steps first, what's your plan for establishing seed to soil contact?


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## Colonel K0rn (Jul 4, 2017)

thegrassfactor said:


> What did your Reno plan entail to maximize seed to soil contact? Aerating? Tilling? Slit seeding?
> 
> The sulfentrazone in the solitaire is the issue. It has a relatively long half life in the soil and can, and will, effect new seed.
> 
> ...


Woah, expert advice from a real LCN. :lol: Don't spend all your time in the Cool Season section. Show the bermuda guys some love too  I'm guessing Grass Daddy asked you to make some posts? Hard work building a YT channel too. Thanks for your help Matt!


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

Yeah I asked him cuz hes a chemical genious lol


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## autospy (Aug 4, 2017)

GrassDaddy said:


> In the meantime I would water heavy immediately.


too late for that. I didn't find out what happened until days later my neighbor asked me how much my new "lawn service" was costing me -- he was home when they sprayed.


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## autospy (Aug 4, 2017)

thegrassfactor said:


> What did your Reno plan entail to maximize seed to soil contact? Aerating? Tilling? Slit seeding?
> But first steps first, what's your plan for establishing seed to soil contact?


Thanks for the response Matt.

My original plan was aeration and top dressing some parts with peat moss -- I'm renovating some parts and reseeding others. I know aeration is not always needed, but I do have some areas of compaction from heavy equipment used to build my patio. The hope is the mesotrione will stop any weeds from germinating.

Now, since the label for solitare suggests using slit seeding -- I'm willing to do that. Just worried that Sept 15 will be too late for TTTF. I don't want to waste money on expensive seed if the results will be poor.


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## thegrassfactor (Apr 12, 2017)

A cheap option would be to apply a high rate of humic acid and fertilizer, then slit seed.

The goal would be to bust up as much of the ground as possible. Expose it to the elements. Even if you run slit seeder and don't drop seed. Run it two directions, no seed, water it, then give it a week,and do the same thing dropping seed, and water to germinate.

Anything you can do to turn the soil as much as possible is key. An aerator can do it, but we're talking about hours and hours of aerating.

Where are you located? 9/15 is optimal time for TTTF in my area.


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## thegrassfactor (Apr 12, 2017)

Colonel K0rn said:


> thegrassfactor said:
> 
> 
> > What did your Reno plan entail to maximize seed to soil contact? Aerating? Tilling? Slit seeding?
> ...


Thanks! Everytime I lurk in the warm season section, I get a hankerin' to put my house on the internet and chase a new dream in a warm season market 😂😂😂


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## autospy (Aug 4, 2017)

thegrassfactor said:


> A cheap option would be to apply a high rate of humic acid and fertilizer, then slit seed.
> 
> The goal would be to bust up as much of the ground as possible. Expose it to the elements. Even if you run slit seeder and don't drop seed. Run it two directions, no seed, water it, then give it a week,and do the same thing dropping seed, and water to germinate.


If I wait out the full 4 weeks that the label recommends, I'll be around Sept 15. Do I still need to bust up the ground or is slit seeding enough?



thegrassfactor said:


> Where are you located? 9/15 is optimal time for TTTF in my area.


I'm in Jersey -- zone 7a.


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## thegrassfactor (Apr 12, 2017)

I think you'll be fine. I'd still recommend busting up the ground, multiple pass slit seeding at minimum. Sept 15 you'll still get sufficient germination.


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