# System design help



## BaggerVance

I am in the process of designing a new sprinkler system for my yard and am looking for some input/recommendations on what I have drawn up. 
50 psi static pressure 
6 GPM design flow 
3/4" pex supply from meter

I have been thinking I will use 1.25" pvc for the main irrigation supply lines I'm unsure for laterals. I am planning on using hunter pressure reducing heads, my current drawing is based on 30psi heads and MP rotators. Any input would be appreciated.


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## corneliani

I like it!! About as efficient as you can get it, from a quick glance. 
One note, which may be more preference than anything, is to move the lone MP1000-360 in the front to the property line and use a 180 spray (mp2000 possibly?). I personally prefer to have the heads on the perimeter of the turf as much as possible.. think aeration, etc. But otherwise you look like you've got it.


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## bernstem

I would consider upsizing the top right MP 3000 90 to a 3500. That will help with coverage next to the flower bed. I agree with @corneliani and would change the MP1000 to two MP 2000/3000 on the edge of the lawn. That single head in the middle of the turf would be annoying, and I think you will get better coverage in that area. As it is right now, the middle of the pink looks like it only gets two sprinkler covering it while most of the rest of the zone is 3. The area below it with the two yello MP2000 also only has 2 heads covering much of it. It would fix that problem unless you wanted it that way because it is shaded on that side or something.


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## BaggerVance

That spot on the front where the pink head is is one I wasn't sure about. I'm not sure why I put that single head in the center to be honest. What are your thoughts on pipe? I'm trying to decide if I want to run all pvc or be better off using poly. I installed a whole system for my boss but had rain bird do all the design and it was all 1" pvc, so I'm wondering if poly would be a good route. I also have a side yard that is 40' x 160' so I'm trying to decide if pvc or poly will be the most cost effective or could I do a combination?


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## BaggerVance

Thoughts on my pipe layout? And maybe suggestions on sizing.


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## TSGarp007

3/4" poly or PVC should handle the 6 gpm, so I would upsize to 1". That way you'll get away with any long runs and also why not? Find the minimum required and then go one size up.

Or you could calculate the flow rate and distance at every part of your piping system and size it appropriately to ensure you don't go over 5 fps or lose too much pressure at each sprinkler.


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## corneliani

With your static pressure at 50-psi you can only afford approx 15-20% max drop in pressure along the way (40 psi rqd at head). 1" CL200 PVC pipe would give you approx 1/2-psi loss over 100' of pipe whereas the 3/4" equivalent bumps that up closer to 2-psi loss, for reference. The sch40 pipe has a smaller ID as well as the poly, so the 200 is the most efficient (if that's even used in your region). There's approx 20% $$ premium with going the 1" pipe route, plus fittings, if you're like me and value engineer. Of note, since you asked about poly vs pvc.. since your runs are short between fittings PVC may be easier to handle/install, if you don't mind glueing your fittings in. I prefer that over crimps, personally.

As for layout... those 22-degree runs (the green & orange zones) aren't going to be practical to install fittings on. May be best to run 45 or 90-degree runs, if site conditions allow (?). Another reason to run 1" pipe, btw, is it minimizes water hammer esp when using those Tee's.


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## BaggerVance

Thanks for the input. I went though and did a rough pressure loss calculation for each zone using the irrigation tutorials spreadsheets. I am thinking I will just run all 1" SCH 40 for the longest runs and 3/4" on the short runs. I think the highest loss I had was a little under 4 psi for all the pipe from the POC to the end of a zone. I don't mind gluing and have done enough plumbing to know what will be involved. I didn't know if poly would be any less labor intensive. My site is pretty well open aside from two trees that may create some hand digging.

Any thoughts on controllers? I have been looking at the Rachio and either the Hunter pro hc 12 zone, or the rain bird esp 12 zone with the WiFi capabilities. I am having trouble choosing, part of me likes the idea of the rachio and all the smart capabilities but if the internet goes out I still want to be able to go turn them on. I'm leaning towards the Pro HC just because it still has manual capabilities and cost a little less than the rain bird.


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## bernstem

I have the rachio and like it, but it isn't perfect. It was discussed in this thread recently: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17469&p=262662&hilit=rachio#p262662


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## BaggerVance

I have all my parts except a curb stop valve to tie into my main water supply, it will be here Monday. So, this afternoon I got started doing some digging and laying out trench lines. 








I'm still kind of questioning my back yard zone for the pipe layout. After being in the yard and looking here is what I came up with. 

The black is the new layout. Anyone have any other recommendations or ideas. I'm running the 45° angle because we have a garden on the other side of a fence that I am running water to, so I'm trying to figure out my best route for the least amount of trenching and beat use of pipe. I decided on all 1" line and 6" or 12" swing joints. Hopefully tomorrow I can get my other valve box locations dig out and start hand digging around all the hurried cable lines.


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## g-man

I think the backflow is too low to the ground. If you ever need to work on it or test it, it would be a pain. I also don't see a way to blow the system for the winter unless you use the backflow test ports.


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## BaggerVance

Well I got all my pipe and heads installed over the weekend, everything is wired up and all zones work as they should. This project turned out to be a little more physical than I was thinking it would be. I'm down to back filling trenches. Does anyone have any recommendations for backfilling other than a rake and shovel? I feel like I have ran a shovel plenty the last week and a half. Looking for a way to decrease the manual labor somewhat.


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## Bermuda_Triangle

@BaggerVance Did you hand dig all of the trenches?


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## BaggerVance

No sir. I borrowed a trencher from a local electrician. Took me about 3 hours to trench everything. Cleaning out trenches after 2" of rain is not much fun though.


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