# What does self propel "traction adjustment" actually change?



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

Picking up a Toro Recycler. Just have one question before I purchase. When you adjust the tightness of the cable that connects to the self propel, say loosen it a bit, what actually changes on the mower? I'm hoping it's the amount of time it takes for the drive mechanism to rotate the wheels once. Is that the case?


----------



## FlaDave (Jul 10, 2018)

Is it a personal pace? On my old toro recycler personal pace that adjusted the belt tension to the drive wheels. Kinda like the clutch in a manual car. The tighter the cable was the less pressure needed to apply for it to move. If you loosen it you would need to push harder on the handle to engage the drive. It will move more gradual and could slip on slopes and hills. Having it too lose would also cause it to not to move and squeal when the belt got wet.


----------



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

FlaDave said:


> Is it a personal pace? On my old toro recycler personal pace that adjusted the belt tension to the drive wheels. Kinda like the clutch in a manual car. The tighter the cable was the less pressure needed to apply for it to move. If you loosen it you would need to push harder on the handle to engage the drive. It will move more gradual and could slip on slopes and hills. Having it too lose would also cause it to not to move and squeal when the belt got wet.


No. This is the standard variable speed front wheel drive version, not the personal pace. I cannot find any documentation explaining how the adjustment actually affects the handling.

I'm guessing your personal pace was the AWD version based on your post.


----------



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

This is the specific adjustment I'm referencing:

https://yardcare.toro.com/video/mower-maintenance/how-to-adjust-traction-on-self-propel-lawn-mower/

Seems to me if you loosen it, it would basically require more pressure on the drive control to activate it, and the wheels would turn slower on a variable speed system when activated partially...and at the extreme, if you loosened it too much, the drive would never activate...is this correct?


----------



## FlaDave (Jul 10, 2018)

Not clear why they are calling it variable speed as there doesn't seem to any gears to changed. From the parts schematics the cable controls belt tension to the front gear box. Loosening it should allow the belt to slip and turn the front wheels slower. That's got to be hard on the belt I would think.


----------



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

FlaDave said:


> Not clear why they are calling it variable speed as there doesn't seem to any gears to changed. From the parts schematics the cable controls belt tension to the front gear box. Loosening it should allow the belt to slip and turn the front wheels slower. That's got to be hard on the belt I would think.


What you said makes sense, but I'm not up on how these work. I assume the personal pace also uses the same type of belt. The type of handle/trigger should not influence how much wear is produced on the belts, as the mowers are the same design except for the handles and which wheels have power drive attached to them. My understanding was that the whole point of the personal pace system was so that you can mow slower than the top speed of 4.5 mph. If doing so placed extra wear on the system, they would be breaking down left and right, don't you think?

I'm basically trying to avoid purchasing a mower that only operates at 4.5 mph; I was hoping to slow it down using the traction adjustment.


----------



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

@FlaDave, I think the gearbox that allows variable speed is the black piece on top of one of the front wheels:

https://www.toro.com/en/homeowner/walk-behind-mowers/22-variable-speed-high-wheel-20379

@MasterMech

Is this true?

And how does the traction adjustment relate to this variable speed?


----------



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

My assumption was that loosening the cable a bit should prevent the mower from engaging the higher speeds of the variable speed when the self propel bail is pressed.


----------



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

@FlaDave, this discussion sheds some light on how variable speed works:
https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/showthread.php/11305-How-does-variable-speed-work-on-front-wheel-drive-mowers
You're right that it uses a slipping belt method.


----------



## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

Green said:


> @FlaDave, I think the gearbox that allows variable speed is the black piece on top of one of the front wheels:
> 
> https://www.toro.com/en/homeowner/walk-behind-mowers/22-variable-speed-high-wheel-20379
> 
> ...


The vast majority of variable speed systems modulate speed by slipping the belt. Loosening the cable will only increase wear on the system. It should be slack with the bail released and the spring extended with the bail fully depressed. The only way to slow it down over the whole range would be to modify the belt drive by changing pulley size or lower engine rpms. The former is not practical and the latter is not desireable for quality of cut.


----------



## Bman1 (Dec 8, 2018)

It controls belt tension, no magic involved. 
Let me ask, why do you want to adjust it? Slipping,mor to slow it down?


----------



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

@MasterMech, thanks. So, do the Honda HRR mowers and Husqvarna mower also use a slipping belt method to change speed?

Does "hydrostatic transmission with cruise control" indicate a superior speed regulation method that does not slip the belt, or is strictly how the control works?


----------



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

Bman1 said:


> It controls belt tension, no magic involved.
> Let me ask, why do you want to adjust it? Slipping,mor to slow it down?


My guess is that the maximum speed is going to be problematic...far too fast for good cut quality or control. What is the solution?


----------



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

In addition to my other questions:

with a front wheel drive slip belt propel system, what's the best way to start up from a standstill to avoid wear and improve ground traction? (Is it best to start pushing the mower along a little bit before activating the drive bail?) what about when stopping?

And if the traction control should only be adjusted within a narrow range, as implied above, what is the best way to mow at lower than max walking speed on a two bail control mower, but still retain control over the handle (without too much of an open grip)?

That is my major concern about a two bail setup...the open grip needed. It seems better than a personal system to me personally (which is always on when you move forward?), but I'm still concerned about how to retain control over the grip as I do with a manual push mower. That was my whole point of this thread. A closed grip would seem to result in a two bail handle machine moving far too fast.

What is the solution? Obviously the design has been around a long time so it must be usable.

Use one hand for each bail separately?


----------



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

So, other than fitting something around the main handle or the drive bail to take up a little space yet still allow a closed grip, is there any other option for using a mower at less than max walking speed?


----------



## FlaDave (Jul 10, 2018)

I'm thinking you would be fine with the belt tensioner a bit loose to reduce the drive speed. Maybe try to find a Kevlar drive belt for it in case of premature failure. Kevlar should hold up better as its what they use on a lot of riding mowers.


----------



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

FlaDave said:


> I'm thinking you would be fine with the belt tensioner a bit loose to reduce the drive speed. Maybe try to find a Kevlar drive belt for it in case of premature failure. Kevlar should hold up better as its what they use on a lot of riding mowers.


Right, within a reasonable range, as in that video. But not so loose that it causes problems like mastermech stated.

Thanks for the help, all.


----------

