# Toro bedknife



## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Where is a good place to purchase a new bed knife for a toro GM1000? Which one should I get? I know there are different ones but I plan on maintaining between 0.5-0.75" so I don't need the super thin profile one for HOCs like 0.2"


----------



## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Probably R&R. I'd get the thickest one. You also need to go back with new screws. I would order the special socket for those - R&R has it. :thumbup:


----------



## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Assuming its this one? And you mean the bed knife screwdriver tool as well...how do I know which screws to get?

https://www.rrproducts.com/Bedknife-~-Super-Thick-5~~16-product17130


----------



## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> Assuming its this one? And you mean the bed knife screwdriver tool as well...how do I know which screws to get?
> 
> https://www.rrproducts.com/Bedknife-~-Super-Thick-5~~16-product17130


I can't check the number at the moment, but the best way to do it is search for your mower in the drop down menus near the top of the R&R website... Toro > GM1000 > then select the parts diagram for your mower's model number (found on the serial number plate on the frame). They will list all the options for your mower, including the screws. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to have one of these to help break the old screws loose. You attach the Toro bedknife screw socket to it and strike it with a hammer to break them loose.

When it comes time to reassemble, be sure and follow the torque specification/sequence in the factory service manual. I _think_ it calls for anti-seize on the screws, but it has been a while since I read it.


----------



## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Ware said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> > Assuming its this one? And you mean the bed knife screwdriver tool as well...how do I know which screws to get?
> ...


Jeez why can this be a simple swap? lol


----------



## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> Jeez why can this be a simple swap? lol


It is simple, you just need the correct tools.


----------



## Colonel K0rn (Jul 4, 2017)

Redtenchu said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> > Jeez why can this be a simple swap? lol
> ...


Truer words were never spoken.

Edit: Just realized this is post #500.


----------



## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

Colonel K0rn said:


> Edit: Just realized this is post #500.


Gratz


----------



## 95mmrenegade (Jul 31, 2017)

I 100% intend on replacing the flat head screws with torx bolt from mcmaster


----------



## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

95mmrenegade said:


> I 100% intend on replacing the flat head screws with torx bolt from mcmaster


I would just make sure the countersink chamfer angles match:








And also that whatever Torx driver you plan to use is impact rated in case you have trouble removing them. I know the flat heads sound like a pain, but they do work decently well with the correct socket and a manual impact driver.


----------



## Colonel K0rn (Jul 4, 2017)

I will piggyback on what Ware just posted and say that you really shouldn't have any issue getting the correct screws out of the blade when it comes time to change it if you follow the manufacturer's recommendation and use anti-seize on the threads, and also apply some oil to the bed bar prior to mounting the blade. Also make sure that you torque the screws to the correct spec and tighten them correctly. If you follow these steps, you should have no problem removing them when it comes time to change your bar again. After all, the torque spec converted to ft. lbs is ~ 16-17 ft lbs. I've opened jars of pickles that are tighter than that with my bare hands, although some of those have given me a challenge.

Be sure that you replace the screws every time, it's like $3 for the set. Cheap insurance, and less frustration when it comes to reassembly.

One thing I will make a recommendation on is to see if you can get your hands on a tube of MOLYKOTE CU-7439 Plus Paste. I prefer using this over molybdenum based anti-seize pastes, as this type has a higher wear rating and resistance to water wash off, and even if the carrier is removed, still will provide lubrication qualities with the copper, compared to other products. I was introduced to it when I was working at Mercedes-Benz. And as Vince from Sham Wow would say, "Made in Germany. You know the Germans make good stuff." If it's good enough to use on a Benz, it's good enough for anything I would need to use it on.


----------



## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Reviving this thread because spring is almost here and I'm gearing up for the first scalp. Have the bedknife, screws, and tools. I'm looking at toro manual and I don't see where it talks about torque or anti-seize paste on the screws. Any advice? I don't want to put this thing on and have it be uneven and ruin it OR have it flying off and decapitate someone.


----------



## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> Reviving this thread because spring is almost here and I'm gearing up for the first scalp. Have the bedknife, screws, and tools. I'm looking at toro manual and I don't see where it talks about torque or anti-seize paste on the screws. Any advice? I don't want to put this thing on and have it be uneven and ruin it OR have it flying off and decapitate someone.


See Page 7-16 of the Service Manual.


----------



## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Boy am I blind...any specific kind of anti-seize paste?


----------



## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> Boy am I blind...any specific kind of anti-seize paste?


I'd just pick up a little tube of this at an auto parts store...


----------



## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Trying to do this today...do you guys remove the entire bed bar? That step lists like 3 tools I don't have :lol:

Also, I'm fairly sure there's no anti-seize paste on this mower....the manual acts like you can just loosen with socket, but even the impact driver isn't making the screws budge...


----------



## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Well I looked up the manual specific to my mower and thank goodness it's simpler than the one @Ware posted...just need a torque wrench and a LOT of wd40 and elbow grease....these babies are on tight

https://www.toro.com/getpub/33738


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

ahartzell said:


> Trying to do this today...do you guys remove the entire bed bar? That step lists like 3 tools I don't have :lol:
> 
> Also, I'm fairly sure there's no anti-seize paste on this mower....the manual acts like you can just loosen with socket, but even the impact driver isn't making the screws budge...


If someone overtightened :evil: and did not use some kind of Antiseize :evil: the bedknife screws are going to be totally frozen. You are going to need a cold chisel and a hammer. First time I had to replace the bedknife, that involved a blowtorch on the screws, plenty of Liquid Wrench and the chisel with hammer. If you installed the screws correctly the last time, the most that will be needed is going to be a breaker bar + the driver tool. I replace my bedknife at least 2X per year, but I am mowing an acre all together every week.


----------



## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Greendoc said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> > Trying to do this today...do you guys remove the entire bed bar? That step lists like 3 tools I don't have :lol:
> ...


I sprayed WD40 on them and I'm using the impact screwdriver...not budging :?


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

ahartzell said:


> Greendoc said:
> 
> 
> > ahartzell said:
> ...


I pretzelled the bit for the impact driver on mine. That is when the 2 lb hammer, the Bernzomatic, and the chisel came out. If it is torqued to no more than 17 ft-lbs and Antiseize used on the screws, it comes off easy the next time.


----------



## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Greendoc said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> > Greendoc said:
> ...


What's funny is in the manual I posted, it doesn't mention replacing the bed knife at all....so there's no specifications for what to torque them to...


----------



## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> What's funny is in the manual I posted, it doesn't mention replacing the bed knife at all....so there's no specifications for what to torque them to...


See previous post... 200-250 in-lbs (16.7-20.8 ft-lbs).



Ware said:


> See Page 7-16 of the Service Manual.


----------



## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Ware said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> > What's funny is in the manual I posted, it doesn't mention replacing the bed knife at all....so there's no specifications for what to torque them to...
> ...


I saw that, but the pieces aren't the same (not my model or something)...I posted the one I found based on model/serial number


----------



## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> I saw that, but the pieces aren't the same (not my model or something)...I posted the one I found based on model/serial number


What is your model number? 04034, 04050, 04051 & 04052 all use the same bedknife.


----------



## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> What's funny is in the manual I posted, it doesn't mention replacing the bed knife at all....so there's no specifications for what to torque them to...


You linked the Operator's Manual. The instructions for changing the bedknife are in the Service Manual.


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Ware said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> > I saw that, but the pieces aren't the same (not my model or something)...I posted the one I found based on model/serial number
> ...


Other than differences in the bed bolts, the actual bedbar is the same across all production years of the GM1x00 production years. I have the 1996 model and 90% of it is the same as a recent model. Only differences I see are the height adjustment and the bedbar to reel adjustment.


----------



## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Ware said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> > I saw that, but the pieces aren't the same (not my model or something)...I posted the one I found based on model/serial number
> ...


04052


----------



## Colonel K0rn (Jul 4, 2017)

I'll throw this out there that there are better penetrating oils to help remove seized fasteners. I'm a fan of KROIL. I used to use PB Blaster, until a machinist friend turned me onto KROIL a few years ago. One more thing, when you do get the bedknife off, make sure that the bar surface is as clean of debris as you can get it, and put a light coating of oil on it before you put the new bedknife on. Also, get some good anti seize paste for those fasteners.


----------



## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

I guess the bedbar removal is nothing like mine in the service manual...it tells me how specific to mine in the operators manual but changing the bed knife is only in the service manual


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Colonel K0rn said:


> I'll throw this out there that there are better penetrating oils to help remove seized fasteners. I'm a fan of KROIL. I used to use PB Blaster, until a machinist friend turned me onto KROIL a few years ago. One more thing, when you do get the bedknife off, make sure that the bar surface is as clean of debris as you can get it, and put a light coating of oil on it before you put the new bedknife on. Also, get some good anti seize paste for those fasteners.


A dirty/rusty bed bar surface will also show up as uneven knife to reel contact. Probably will not see it unless you are below 0.2". I sand mine clean first and then put a coat of oil between the knife and bar. The bed bars retiring from golf courses in Florida and Hawaii can be totalled. Those courses use Seashore Paspalum and the water system on the course is salt water. Mowers washed down with that salt water have rust in the darndest places. I know.


----------



## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> 04052


The GM1000 I owned was an 04052. The Service Manual I linked above would apply.



Colonel K0rn said:


> I'll throw this out there that there are better penetrating oils to help remove seized fasteners...


+1, I would probably try something other than WD40. I would also heat them with a propane torch. You definitely don't want to start snapping them - a new bedbar is ~$142 (don't ask me how I know). :lol:


----------



## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Ware said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> > 04052
> ...


Lol! I've got a friend who is bringing me a breaker bar and a torch.

I'll use the operators manual to remove and re-install the bedbar and use the service manual to remove and install new bed knife


----------



## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

@Ware and I also missed that you said get the thickest one...bought a thin 1/8 :lol:


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

ahartzell said:


> @Ware and I also missed that you said get the thickest one...bought a thin 1/8 :lol:


In actual practice that should not hurt you, unless you run into rocks . The thicker bedknives last a lot longer and hold up a lot better with twigs or rocks. But they cannot mow lower than so many 1/1000ths above the actual thickness of the knife. I use what is called a Razor Steel Tournament Cut knife I order from R&R products. That is because some areas I deal with are less than 0.2". The others are Zoysia at 0.5". My knives are changed every 3-4 months and the reel is replaced every year. . I guess I have to spend money to make money.


----------

