# Granular vs Liquid Fertilizers: What are the pros and cons of both?



## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

I am considering buying a backpack for weed control, and while I could also use it for fertilizer, i am trying to get a sense for which type of fertilizer I want to use.

Does the science suggest one way is more effective at providing nutrients to your lawn?

I was hoping that the experienced users could share opinions on which way is more effective. Or is it a matter of preference, convenience, cost, etc?


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

Liquid fertilizers provide you the ability to get more even coverage than granulars. Millions of nutrient particles are spread over every square inch of turf versus large granules that are expected to feed the turf evenly even though they are an inch apart.

Another big advantage is the ability to mix a bunch of products together and apply all at once. You have to make sure they're compatible, but you can go out and apply micronutrients, NPK, anything else all with a pre emergent application for example. Liquid pre emergents are also much cheaper than their granular counterparts per area covered.

The biggest advantage in my opinion is the ability to foliar feed the turf. Liquid feeding is NOT necessarily foliar feeding, so I don't want to confuse anyone. Foliar feeding is the application of nutrients in a low carrier volume (around 25-50 GPA) that are meant to be intercepted by the leaf and absorbed that way. Foliar feeding allows you to get nutrients in the plant that you might not be able to get if you have a poor soil or the plant is under stress and the roots aren't absorbing many nutrients.

The pros of granular are that you can cover a large area in a short amount of time and that NPK products are typically cheaper in granulars than liquids.

I think the right balance is to use granulars for bulk NPK and sprays for almost everything else. I am currently on a strictly liquid program but I have a small area making it cost effective and easy to spray.


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## Shindoman (Apr 22, 2018)

I too am switching to liquid only. More consistent coverage, much quicker for the nutrients to be absorbed by the plant. But I also have a small area of 2000 sq ft. One fill of the backpack and I'm done. Took me a few years to get used to using the backpack all the time but it's not so bad now.


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## 7824 (Oct 23, 2019)

I will be following these threads closely this year as I plan to transition to mostly liquid by next 2021.


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## Scagfreedom48z+ (Oct 6, 2018)

I've switched to mostly all liquid fertilizer, especially spoon feeding urea and it's been a permanent transition for me. There are only a handful of apps that I use granular for now.
Take a little to get used to so be careful with the liquid ferts. Once you learn your turf, amount, walking speed, experience, etc, it becomes second nature


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

CarolinaCuttin said:


> Liquid fertilizers provide you the ability to get more even coverage than granulars. Millions of nutrient particles are spread over every square inch of turf versus large granules that are expected to feed the turf evenly even though they are an inch apart.
> 
> Another big advantage is the ability to mix a bunch of products together and apply all at once. You have to make sure they're compatible, but you can go out and apply micronutrients, NPK, anything else all with a pre emergent application for example. Liquid pre emergents are also much cheaper than their granular counterparts per area covered.
> 
> ...


Thanks for all of this information. Are you able to share a bit of information on micronutrients and foliar feeding? I only know about NPK.

I know I have poor soil. I have heard adding lime is good, but I am not sure how to do that or why.

I definitely want to learn about the micronutrients and foliar feeding and what differences that does to your lawn...and possible product suggestions too, if you don't mind.

Thanks


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

@turfnsurf Micronutrient absorption into the plant from the soil is pH dependent. If your pH is around 6.5 and your plant is healthy and growing, you should be able to get your micronutrient requirements from the soil. Most of the time this doesn't apply, the pH is off or the plant is stressed because of drought, wet or compacted soil, heat, etc.

This is where foliar feeding comes in. The keys to successful foliar feeding are low spray volumes (approximately 1 gallon per 1000 square feet is a good target, but your range is 0.8-1.15 gallons per 1000), maximum surface area, and quality materials and chelating agents.

The reason we foliar feed at low spray volumes is that at higher volumes a significant fraction of the spray is washed off into the soil which defeats the purpose and is a waste of product. You want to coat the leaf but not enough to have it beading up and dripping off.

You can increase surface area and absorption with the addition of small amounts of surfactant. This is a cheap product that is worth every penny. Surfactants lower the surface tension of your spray and prevent it from beading up. Instead of droplets, you get the product "smeared" on the leaf, increasing contact points with the transcuticular pores that end up taking in the nutrients.

Probably the most important part is the nutrient selection. First, let's talk about chelation. Chelating agents hold on to micronutrient ions (like iron, manganese, zinc, etc.) and keep them in solution by preventing the interaction of the metal ion with phosphates and sulfates that might form an insoluble product. This is what goes on in the soil when your pH is out of whack: the micronutrients are combining with other soil ions to form insoluble (solid) products. If it isn't soluble it isn't getting into the plant. There are two classes of chelating agents: synthetic and organic.

Synthetic chelating agents like EDTA and HEDTA are very powerful chelating agents that hold on tight to the ions they surround. So tight in fact that they inhibit foliar uptake. *EDTA, HEDTA, and similar chelating agents should only be used for soil application of micronutrients* They do a good job at getting as many nutrients in the plant as the soil and roots allow, but they are not ideal for foliar feeding.

Organic chelating agents are smaller, natural molecules that perform the same function. Many amino acids make great chelates as well as other organic acids like citric acid. These chelates are great because they keep your product in solution in the spray tank and they are ideal for foliar feeding, the plant can easily take them up through the leaf tissue. Organic chelating agents also allow uptake from the soil by the roots.

Micronutrients that aren't chelated are still good candidates for foliar feeding, but know that when you irrigate 12-24 hours after the spray as you should to wash remaining nutrient into the soil, these unchelated nutrients will likely be tied up and not available for root absorption.

When choosing a foliar micronutrient product, the hierarchy goes like this:

1. Organically chelated micronutrients
2. Micronutrients with no chelation 
3. Micronutrients with synthetic chelates (I would only use these for soil application even though a small amount of foliar absorption will occur)

The products that I use for foliar application are always chelated with organic acids. Micrel Total from Growth Products is a complete micronutrient package including 6% iron that is chelated with citric acid. It's an expensive jug, but I use 3 oz/M every two weeks so it goes a long way. One jug treats almost 2.5 acres of turf. There are lots of other great options out there, so look at all the products and choose one that has quality ingredients and fits your budget and goals.


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

@CarolinaCuttin thank you for that writeup. I intend to plant some hydrangeas soon. Since they are a hardy plant, I definitely want to make sure I address my soil issues as well.

My pH is 7.1-7.2 based on the 3 soil samples I sent in. What are your thoughts on that level?

From what you've seen, what does successful foliar feeding and use of micronutrients result in? Are there any observable improvements to things like color, leaf density, or stronger leaf tissues? Or is this something that doesn't particularly result in "naked eye" results?

I know this isn't the soil forum, but did you have any suggestions on how to improve soil quality? This refers back to my earlier question about the pH of my soil. I have a very clay soil and it seems to get compacted very easily (I aerated back in March and now the soil looks dry and is cracking...even though we just had a lot of rain)


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## LoveMyLawn (Oct 14, 2019)

That is excellent info @CarolinaCuttin My PH is 7.7 I'm slowly using elemental Sulphur to bring it down. I started spraying Feature a few weeks ago and it's working well. I am going to look into the product you mentioned and I see a decent list of liquid ferts on Site Ones website. I would love to move to all liquids. I've got research to do. Thanks for your info!


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

@turfnsurf Micronutrients can do lots of things but they can play a big role because they are the backbone of enzymes that help the plant perform its main functions.

Iron, manganese, and magnesium for example all help the turf take on a dark green color because magnesium is the central molecule of chlorophylls and iron and manganese are used in the plant to increase production of chlorophyll.

This is just one example. Secondary and micronutrients can improve color, rooting, carb production, increase stress tolerance, and bolster plant defenses.

7.1 isn't a bad pH at all, you could definitely use elemental sulfur like @LoveMyLawn is doing, or you could just let it ride. If your soil is hard and dry even after rains, aerification and the incorporation of organic matter can help a lot. I'm a fan of humic acid and solid humates to improve soils. Lots of good products out there.


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

CarolinaCuttin said:


> @turfnsurf Micronutrients can do lots of things but they can play a big role because they are the backbone of enzymes that help the plant perform its main functions.
> 
> Iron, manganese, and magnesium for example all help the turf take on a dark green color because magnesium is the central molecule of chlorophylls and iron and manganese are used in the plant to increase production of chlorophyll.
> 
> ...


I appreciate your willingness to answers these questions. I think i can find my way around the macronutrients. I do want to improve my soil quality though, so I will look at humic acid and solid humates. As someone who has never used them before, are these considered soil amendments? And are these types of products applied in liquid form?


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

@turfnsurf They are basically the same thing in different form. Humate dissolved in water becomes humic acid. They can be either liquid or solid. I'm betting solid is going to be the best way for you to go because it's cheaper to get maximum weight as a solid rather than a liquid which is mostly water.


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## LoveMyLawn (Oct 14, 2019)

turfnsurf said:


> @CarolinaCuttin thank you for that writeup. I intend to plant some hydrangeas soon. Since they are a hardy plant, I definitely want to make sure I address my soil issues as well.
> 
> My pH is 7.1-7.2 based on the 3 soil samples I sent in. What are your thoughts on that level?
> 
> ...


I have 12-15 hydrangeas. Last year was my first growing year at this house. The hydrangeas had been struggling. One I got my soil sample back and realized how high my Ph was. I make sure to apply elemental Sulphur in that bed twice a year. With my Ph over 7 they can't take up iron. When I spray my yard with feature every 2 weeks I give them a good coating of it too. They look fantastic this year.


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

LoveMyLawn said:


> I have 12-15 hydrangeas. Last year was my first growing year at this house. The hydrangeas had been struggling. One I got my soil sample back and realized how high my Ph was. I make sure to apply elemental Sulphur in that bed twice a year. With my Ph over 7 they can't take up iron. When I spray my yard with feature every 2 weeks I give them a good coating of it too. They look fantastic this year.


This is helpful. Is there any sort of guideline what your soil pH should be in order for certain plants to be viable?

What is 'feature'?

What made you choose to spray your yard every two weeks? And are you spraying the soil or the leaves? Just trying to differentiate the products that should be sprayed on the plant leaves with surfactants vs what should be providing nutrients to the soil.


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## LoveMyLawn (Oct 14, 2019)

Feature is chelated micro nutrient high in iron, link below. My understanding from reading the forum it's hard to find now. The place that was selling it when out of business I believe. Unless you have a Nutrien Ag store close that stocks it you might not find it. Also from reading a product called Main Event is very similar. Link to it below too. There is some bags of feature for sale in the Market Place forum on here.

Every two weeks is the recommendation most given on here. I only spray the leaves. They absorb it very well. Per a recommendation on here I will be adding a surfactant to future sprayings. What most people do from what I read is 2oz per 1000 sq feet on the first application then 1-1.5oz per 1000sq ft every two weeks to maintain. This weekend will be my 3rd application. I have been very impressed with it. After about 5 days from my first app I could see a big difference. The first two apps of spraying it on my hydrangeas has made a big difference too.

https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/agrian-cg-fs1-production/pdfs/Feature_water_soluble_micronutrients_6-0-0_Label.pdf

https://www.treestuff.com/main-event-dry-chelated-iron/


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

LoveMyLawn said:


> I have 12-15 hydrangeas. Last year was my first growing year at this house. The hydrangeas had been struggling. One I got my soil sample back and realized how high my Ph was. I make sure to apply elemental Sulphur in that bed twice a year. With my Ph over 7 they can't take up iron. When I spray my yard with feature every 2 weeks I give them a good coating of it too. They look fantastic this year.


@LoveMyLawn I am not sure of your zone, but I am in 5B, so we get cold winters. When your fall season approaches, do you anything to your hydrangeas? I am not versed in pruning/deadheading or knowing which plants need it or not...but I am curious if you need to do anything outside of adequately watering them before the freeze hits.


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

@CarolinaCuttin please correct me if I am wrong.

When it comes to optimizing plant growth, one can:

1. Optimize the soil health by using soil amendments, or fertilizing the soil
2. Nourish the plant through foliar feeding, which is essentially allowing the plant to obtain the nutrients through their leaves as an alternative to obtaining it through the soil

I want to make sure I am understanding the differences between the processes.


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## LoveMyLawn (Oct 14, 2019)

turfnsurf said:


> LoveMyLawn said:
> 
> 
> > I have 12-15 hydrangeas. Last year was my first growing year at this house. The hydrangeas had been struggling. One I got my soil sample back and realized how high my Ph was. I make sure to apply elemental Sulphur in that bed twice a year. With my Ph over 7 they can't take up iron. When I spray my yard with feature every 2 weeks I give them a good coating of it too. They look fantastic this year.
> ...


I'm in Dallas. Zone 8a. So our winters aren't that bad. Only thing I do is in mid February I cut them back to the ground or close to it. They start putting on new growth shortly after that.


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

turfnsurf said:


> @CarolinaCuttin please correct me if I am wrong.
> 
> When it comes to optimizing plant growth, one can:
> 
> ...


Yeah that is a good summary. Ideally, a plant gets it nutrients from the soil but without great soil and a healthy, growing plant, foliar fertility can be used to supplement what the soil can't provide.


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

CarolinaCuttin said:


> Yeah that is a good summary. Ideally, a plant gets it nutrients from the soil but without great soil and a healthy, growing plant, foliar fertility can be used to supplement what the soil can't provide.


Ok great.

I definitely want to do foliar feeding...but I will also use elemental sulfur and humic acid for the soil. Are there any other organic matter that I could/should consider using for my soil?

I will also look into the macronutrients you suggested as well.


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

turfnsurf said:


> CarolinaCuttin said:
> 
> 
> > Yeah that is a good summary. Ideally, a plant gets it nutrients from the soil but without great soil and a healthy, growing plant, foliar fertility can be used to supplement what the soil can't provide.
> ...


I only have experience with humic acid but there may be lots of people on here with other recommendations too.


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## LoveMyLawn (Oct 14, 2019)

@CarolinaCuttin do you have a recommendation on a liquid humic acid, app rate and how often. I'm using Anderson DG granular now, but I would like to move to a liquid.


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

LoveMyLawn said:


> @CarolinaCuttin do you have a recommendation on a liquid humic acid, app rate and how often. I'm using Anderson DG granular now, but I would like to move to a liquid.


Humic12 from Greene County is a popular option. I like 3-6 ounces 1-2 times per month.


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## LoveMyLawn (Oct 14, 2019)

Awesome. Thanks. That will be easy to add to my Feature apps.


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

@Carolina Lawn and @LoveMyLawn (or anyone who might know)

I am new to this, so my apologies if this is a novice question.

When applying micronutrients, is it safe to apply these to crops as well? I will be buying some hydrangeas, but I currently have some yews, various hanging baskets, a couple of roses that haven't budded yet, some tulips, and a few crops. I just wanted to be sure that it would be okay to provide the same fertilizer or micronutrients to all of the living plants.



LoveMyLawn said:


> Awesome. Thanks. That will be easy to add to my Feature apps.


@LoveMyLawn so you will mix this with Feature in the same spray application? 
Isn't the humic acid for the soil? Or would you just spray the humic acid onto your leaves like you do the Feature?
Where do you get Feature from? Nobody near me seems to have it.
Lastly, what elemental sulfur product do you use, and what is your app rate?


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## LoveMyLawn (Oct 14, 2019)

First. Just incase you didn't know. Hydrangeas love the shade. Mine only get a couple hours of morning sun then shaded the rest of the day.

I'm new at the too so we are learning together. 

You probably won't find feature. I put a link to Main Event in the first page. Also type It into the search feature here and there are lots of discussions about it. Basically the same thing as Feature.

What most people do with the iron spray(Feature) is spray it, let it sit for say 12 hours/overnight then irrigate it to wash it off. So the humic will end up going to the soil. I don't know if humic is uptaken foliar. I'm sure @CarolinaCuttin will know that.

And yes apply the micros to crops as well. I spray the Hydrangeas with this mix when I spray. That said for my garden and other potted plants I use Dyna-Gro (Grow). Yes Dyna-Gro is popular in weed industry since y'all will google it. I use it in my plain vegetable garden and for other "potted" plants. It's a great fertilizer for that. Has lots of micros in it and is a great foliar spray for all plants.


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## LoveMyLawn (Oct 14, 2019)

Side question. How when you @ someone do you make it show up green so it @'s them?


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

LoveMyLawn said:


> Side question. How when you @ someone do you make it show up green so it @'s them?


Here is how you do it.

1. Type "@"
2. Start typing the person's name - when you see it, use the down arrow, and then click the "enter" key for the site to auto-complete the typing of the person's handle.

Try it so we can make sure my instructions are clear @LoveMyLawn


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## LoveMyLawn (Oct 14, 2019)

Got it! Thanks @turfnsurf I've been using the quick reply. Once I switch to the full it shows up like you mentioned to do.


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

LoveMyLawn said:


> First. Just incase you didn't know. Hydrangeas love the shade. Mine only get a couple hours of morning sun then shaded the rest of the day.
> 
> I'm new at the too so we are learning together.
> 
> ...


@LoveMyLawn and @CarolinaCuttin check this spot out in the link below.

The top edge of the picture is "north", so that bush is "west".

So the hydrangeas I buy and plant here would get very little morning sun and that's it...with all the tree cover. That long patch of dirty that's sidled next to those bushes is where I was going to plant seed, but after hearing that hydrangeas don't like a lot of sun, I figured that this would be the ideal spot for some. What do you think?



http://imgur.com/m4vqcCm


Secondly, I assume you don't use Feature on your crops because of the price, and that you can probably nourish your crops with a cheaper product...is that it?

Edited to add: I am glad it worked for you! Good to see that I could share some knowledge too...even though it's small! LOL


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

I just realized that I didn't tag properly.

@CarolinaCuttin and @LoveMyLawn could you both check out my last few comments? I was hoping to get a bit more advice from you both (or anyone else who can contribute).


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

turfnsurf said:


> I just realized that I didn't tag properly.
> 
> @CarolinaCuttin and @LoveMyLawn could you both check out my last few comments? I was hoping to get a bit more advice from you both (or anyone else who can contribute).


I only know about turf, I don't know enough to make recommendations for ornamentals.

You can use Feature for other plants, but it is designed for turf so you results may vary from plant to plant. It shouldn't be more expensive to spray foliars on ornamentals than it is the same area of turf, and occasionally I do use foliar nutrients and biostimulants from turf products for ornamentals. I just keep a control group to see if the nutrient I'm testing is working.


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## greencare (Sep 14, 2019)

I think granular is better as it provides a slower feed. With liquid, one would need frequent applications, maybe on a weekly or bi-weekly basis.


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

greencare said:


> I think granular is better as it provides a slower feed. With liquid, one would need frequent applications, maybe on a weekly or bi-weekly basis.


It's certainly less time consuming, but that's only one of the pros and cons that have to be weighed before deciding.


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## greencare (Sep 14, 2019)

CarolinaCuttin said:


> greencare said:
> 
> 
> > I think granular is better as it provides a slower feed. With liquid, one would need frequent applications, maybe on a weekly or bi-weekly basis.
> ...


I don't think there is a con. I have had the best, long-term growth from bigger pellets. So far, I have used three granular fertilizers, and order of their long-term growth is as follows: Lesco > Vigoro > Scotts. Lesco has the biggest pellets of the three, and Scotts has the smallest. Scotts makes their fertilizers small because some people tend to cut their lawn small (especially down south in the warm season lawns) and bigger pellets can sit on top of blades undissolved and burn the grass. Scotts, of course, guarantees their stuff to be 'burn-free'. Lesco is more commercial/professional grade, so, it won't be misused by homeowners.

As for even application, you don't need fertilizer for every inch of the lawn, because roots will spread couple of inches in diameter under the soil.


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

greencare said:


> I don't think there is a con. I have had the best, long-term growth from bigger pellets. So far, I have used three granular fertilizers, and order of their long-term growth is as follows: Lesco > Vigoro > Scotts. Lesco has the biggest pellets of the three, and Scotts has the smallest. Scotts makes their fertilizers small because some people tend to cut their lawn small (especially down south in the warm season lawns) and bigger pellets can sit on top of blades undissolved and burn the grass. Scotts, of course, guarantees their stuff to be 'burn-free'. Lesco is more commercial/professional grade, so, it won't be misused by homeowners.
> 
> As for even application, you don't need fertilizer for every inch of the lawn, because roots will spread couple of inches in diameter under the soil.


@greencare I have a SiteOne right down the street and I wasn't sure about Lesco products. I am not an experienced fertilizer user.

Can you explain what you mean about the relationship of pellet size and how I should be cutting my lawn to not harm my grass? If I buy Lesco's products, I want to make sure that my mow height or frequently is correct.


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## greencare (Sep 14, 2019)

turfnsurf said:


> greencare said:
> 
> 
> > I don't think there is a con. I have had the best, long-term growth from bigger pellets. So far, I have used three granular fertilizers, and order of their long-term growth is as follows: Lesco > Vigoro > Scotts. Lesco has the biggest pellets of the three, and Scotts has the smallest. Scotts makes their fertilizers small because some people tend to cut their lawn small (especially down south in the warm season lawns) and bigger pellets can sit on top of blades undissolved and burn the grass. Scotts, of course, guarantees their stuff to be 'burn-free'. Lesco is more commercial/professional grade, so, it won't be misused by homeowners.
> ...


In smaller lawns, with cutting height under an inch or so, the pellets can sit on top of the blades without reaching soil. This is why golf courses use smaller pellets, which require more frequent feeding. Also remember that you have to be careful with Lesco as it only takes little to over-apply. I would suggest Vigoro if you aren't used to application, or even Scotts.


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

greencare said:


> In smaller lawns, with cutting height under an inch or so, the pellets can sit on top of the blades without reaching soil. This is why golf courses use smaller pellets, which require more frequent feeding. Also remember that you have to be careful with Lesco as it only takes little to over-apply. I would suggest Vigoro if you aren't used to application, or even Scotts.


Wow...people like their lawn under an inch? That's almost like looking at the dirt isn't it?


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## greencare (Sep 14, 2019)

turfnsurf said:


> greencare said:
> 
> 
> > In smaller lawns, with cutting height under an inch or so, the pellets can sit on top of the blades without reaching soil. This is why golf courses use smaller pellets, which require more frequent feeding. Also remember that you have to be careful with Lesco as it only takes little to over-apply. I would suggest Vigoro if you aren't used to application, or even Scotts.
> ...


Some grasses like KBG will fill in bare areas through rhizomes, even at smaller heights. For others, one can overseed. I personally cut at 3in. I find that this height conserves water the best, and also doesn't look too excessive, which I find can attract bugs.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

@greencare @turfnsurf the size of the pellets has nothing to do with how much it feeds. You can buy AMS (21-0-0) in large, small, micro and powder. It is all going to feed the same (21% nitrogen by weight). The smaller pellets are harder to make, so they cost more. It allows the product to fall from the leaves into the soil. When pellets are too large for the turf density and they sit of the leaves they can cause leaf burns with dew or get picked up when bag mowing.


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## greencare (Sep 14, 2019)

g-man said:


> @greencare @turfnsurf the size of the pellets has nothing to do with how much it feeds. You can buy AMS (21-0-0) in large, small, micro and powder. It is all going to feed the same (21% nitrogen by weight). The smaller pellets are harder to make, so they cost more. It allows the product to fall from the leaves into the soil. When pellets are too large for the turf density and they sit of the leaves they can cause leaf burns with dew or get picked up when bag mowing.


I was speaking of how fast each fertilizer dissolves in accordance to their pellet size.


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

@g-man as someone new to this, I want to make sure I get this right.

I've only applied fertilizer once or twice - and that was Milorganite, which I've heard can't burn your lawn. Whether that's true or not, the experience was relatively dummy-proof - I followed the spreader settings, and the area that I seeded grew lush.

It's sounding like there is more thought required when using more professional grade fertilizer like Lesco. Prior to this thread, I wasn't even aware that there are different pellet sizes...much less the science behind how to apply them.

I was hoping you could explain a little bit about the considerations that I should have if I choose micro, small large, or powder form.

Ultimately I want to buy the fertilizer that works for me...so if that requires some other actions (like making sure I mow at a certain height), then I will do that...as long as I know what needs to be done and why.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Don't worry too much.


Make sure the grass is not wet prior to application. 
Keep nitrogen at less than 1lb of N/ksqft at once. Ideally at 0.5lb of N/ksqft and you will be ultra safe.
 Don't use spreader settings. Calculate how much you need to get the desired NPK. Weight out the product and spread it at the smallest setting that will flow. Spread it evenly thru the yard.
 Be careful with turns (spills)
 Rubber tires are better than plastic.
 Rain or irrigation after is great, but avoid heavy downpours that can lead to runoff.


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## Chuckatuck89 (Mar 28, 2019)

Scagfreedom48z+ said:


> I've switched to mostly all liquid fertilizer, especially spoon feeding urea and it's been a permanent transition for me. There are only a handful of apps that I use granular for now.
> Take a little to get used to so be careful with the liquid ferts. Once you learn your turf, amount, walking speed, experience, etc, it becomes second nature


@Scagfreedom48z+ where are you getting the liquid Urea?


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## Scagfreedom48z+ (Oct 6, 2018)

Chuckatuck89 said:


> Scagfreedom48z+ said:
> 
> 
> > I've switched to mostly all liquid fertilizer, especially spoon feeding urea and it's been a permanent transition for me. There are only a handful of apps that I use granular for now.
> ...


I dissolve mine. I weigh out .30 lbs per 1M, use a paint mixer and dissolve it in a bucket before spraying


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

@Chuckatuck89 It's probably frowned upon, but diesel exhaust fluid can be purchased at almost any hardware store or Wal-Mart. It is ultra pure urea (32.5%) and pure deionized water (67.5%) and nothing else. If it were a labeled fertilizer it would be 15-0-0.

I get 2.5 gallons for $12. It will last you a long time.

EDIT: 19 oz = 0.2 lbs N, so if you spray at that rate it'll treat almost 17k square feet, well under $1 per thousand.

The main advantage of the DEF is that you get ultra pure, high quality urea (no biuret, a common impurity that is harmful for the turf) and you don't have to dissolve anything. It's more expensive than buying and melting down the urea, but it's so convenient that I don't mind, it's still cheap.


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## Chris LI (Oct 26, 2018)

CarolinaCuttin said:


> @Chuckatuck89 It's probably frowned upon, but diesel exhaust fluid can be purchased at almost any hardware store or Wal-Mart. It is ultra pure urea (32.5%) and pure deionized water (67.5%) and nothing else. If it were a labeled fertilizer it would be 15-0-0.
> 
> I get 2.5 gallons for $12. It will last you a long time.
> 
> ...


Thank you. This is great info! I knew DEF was urea based, but did not know the proportions, and that it would be safe for turf. The next time I'm in Wal-Mart, I need to remember to take a look at it when I pick up filters for my 7.3 Powerstroke.


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## Chuckatuck89 (Mar 28, 2019)

CarolinaCuttin said:


> @Chuckatuck89 It's probably frowned upon, but diesel exhaust fluid can be purchased at almost any hardware store or Wal-Mart. It is ultra pure urea (32.5%) and pure deionized water (67.5%) and nothing else. If it were a labeled fertilizer it would be 15-0-0.
> 
> I get 2.5 gallons for $12. It will last you a long time.
> 
> ...


Wow great info. I may look into this as a start for trying liquid fertilizer. Could I use this in an Ortho sprayer or I guess it's too diluted?

How do you figure the 19oz = 0.2lbs? That is my main confusion with liquid, determining that conversion and also how much water to dissolve something in.


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## Chuckatuck89 (Mar 28, 2019)

Scagfreedom48z+ said:


> Chuckatuck89 said:
> 
> 
> > Scagfreedom48z+ said:
> ...


@Scagfreedom48z+ how much water per 1M with the .3 lbs? Are you mixing for a pump sprayer or hose-end? Are you using it as a foliar feed at that rate or watering it in afterwards?


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

@Chuckatuck89

DEF is 32.5% urea, and urea is 46% nitrogen, so 0.325 * 0.46 = 0.1495 I rounded up to 15, so 15-0-0.

I looked up the density of DEF, it's between 9.02 and 9.08 lbs/gallon. I went with 9.05 lbs/gallon.

9.05 lbs * 15% N = 1.3575 lbs N in one gallon of DEF.

0.2 lbs N / 1.3574 lbs N/gallon = 0.147 gallons

0.147 gallons * 128 oz = 18.85 ounces.

I did a little rounding, but I'm comfortable with 0.1 lbs N = 9.5 oz DEF, and I use that conversion to figure out how much N I want to put down.

If your ortho sprayer is 32 oz, add 19 oz DEF and fill to 32 ounces and spray that over 1000 square feet and you'll get the rate you're looking for.


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## Scagfreedom48z+ (Oct 6, 2018)

Chuckatuck89 said:


> Scagfreedom48z+ said:
> 
> 
> > Chuckatuck89 said:
> ...


I use my spreadermate, .3 lbs per gallon. I usually do 8 gallons at a time. So I dissolve 2.4 lbs of urea for 8 gallons. It's a foliar app. I keep it on for 4-6 hours and then I put the irrigation on to wash off the rest off the blades. I've done 5 spoon feedings so far/1 per week and the grass has responded well.


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## Redeye (Mar 29, 2019)

Last week, I made my first spray application (Chaplin 24v 4-gallon) of "Sprayable Form" of Ammonium Sulfate 21-0-0-24 (Sulfur) at a rate of .5 lbs. of N/M & yard popped big-time.

Should I start using a Surfactant and could I mix with Micrel Total or similar product?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


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## CarolinaCuttin (Sep 6, 2019)

Redeye said:


> Last week, I made my first spray application (Chaplin 24v 4-gallon) of "Sprayable Form" of Ammonium Sulfate 21-0-0-24 (Sulfur) at a rate of .5 lbs. of N/M & yard popped big-time.
> 
> Should I start using a Surfactant and could I mix with Micrel Total or similar product?
> 
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


Definitely use a surfactant, it's so cheap and improves absorption. Micrel total mixes well with AMS.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

turfnsurf said:


> greencare said:
> 
> 
> > In smaller lawns, with cutting height under an inch or so, the pellets can sit on top of the blades without reaching soil. This is why golf courses use smaller pellets, which require more frequent feeding. Also remember that you have to be careful with Lesco as it only takes little to over-apply. I would suggest Vigoro if you aren't used to application, or even Scotts.
> ...


Oh man, you gotta head over to the warm-season forum here. There are hundreds of us reel-mowing Bermuda and Zoysia anywhere from .250" to 1.00" with most at roughly .500". It's addicting!

On the cool-season side, northern and transition-zone golf courses are KBG, Creeping Bent, or Perennial Rye. Mowed anywhere from .100 to .625 usually.


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## Pezking7p (May 23, 2020)

Wow, what a thread. Thanks to everyone who contributed.


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## LoveMyLawn (Oct 14, 2019)

I'm in Dallas and it's mid/upper 90's for the next few month. If I was to go with DEF or another Urea dissolved as mentioned. At a weekly rate of say .25 per K. Using a backpack sprayer. Do I run a chance of burning my Bermuda? I would wash it off after the 4-5 hour set time.


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