# Quick quesiton about late season seeding



## jzinckgra (Nov 25, 2019)

Our recent seeding project has gone really well and I want to seed some more areas. Our area on the hillside typically isn't prone to its first frost until end of Oct. If I put down some more seed and it sprouts, but only grows to ~1" before first frost, will it be ok come Spring or will it die because it didn't have long enough time to establish? I may just hold off till Spring.


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## always_creative (Aug 28, 2020)

If the seed isn't that expensive you may as well see what you can get. Worst case you still put some down in the spring.


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## badtlc (Aug 22, 2019)

It will survive most likely.

EDIT: Let me rephrase that. Where I am it would survive easily. I don't know about Maine.


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## Deadlawn (Sep 8, 2020)

jzinckgra said:


> Our recent seeding project has gone really well and I want to seed some more areas. Our area on the hillside typically isn't prone to its first frost until end of Oct. If I put down some more seed and it sprouts, but only grows to ~1" before first frost, will it be ok come Spring or will it die because it didn't have long enough time to establish? I may just hold off till Spring.


What planting zone are you in:

https://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/Default.aspx

Are you closer to the coast or the foothills?

Here in Western MA, the cutoff for successful seeding is generally Oct. 1. I am in Zone 6A.


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## jzinckgra (Nov 25, 2019)

Deadlawn said:


> jzinckgra said:
> 
> 
> > Our recent seeding project has gone really well and I want to seed some more areas. Our area on the hillside typically isn't prone to its first frost until end of Oct. If I put down some more seed and it sprouts, but only grows to ~1" before first frost, will it be ok come Spring or will it die because it didn't have long enough time to establish? I may just hold off till Spring.
> ...


We're in 5A. But, we're on a hillside and somewhat protected to the early frosts. We've not had one yet while some areas along the coast already have.


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## zackroof (Oct 27, 2019)

Could go either way, but would be susceptible to snow mold damage I'd imagine on top of frost death.

Interesting my neighbor just had her entire lawn redone by a landscape company and they hydroseeded the whole thing today. I'm in NE Mass. I don't have high hopes for it - especially considering I'm sure it's contractor mix. Surprised the landscapers would even do it this late. Maybe they know something I dont. I guess goes to show it's not the worst thing to try for something??


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## Deadlawn (Sep 8, 2020)

zackroof said:


> Could go either way, but would be susceptible to snow mold damage I'd imagine on top of frost death.
> 
> Interesting my neighbor just had her entire lawn redone by a landscape company and they hydroseeded the whole thing today. I'm in NE Mass. I don't have high hopes for it - especially considering I'm sure it's contractor mix. Surprised the landscapers would even do it this late. Maybe they know something I dont. I guess goes to show it's not the worst thing to try for something??


If it's contractor mix, it probably has a lot of ryegrass which germinates fast. Good short term, not so good long term.


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## jzinckgra (Nov 25, 2019)

One other question. We have another section of lawn (7000sqft) that is completely weeds and spotted spurge. No grass left. I want to prep the area before a reseed in the Spring. What's the best way to remove the spurge, weeds,etc such that the topsoil is roughed up? I thought about rototill, but that's seems extreme. Power rake or dethatch? I have a hand rake/dethatcher, but I'm not raking 7000sq with that


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## Deadlawn (Sep 8, 2020)

jzinckgra said:


> One other question. We have another section of lawn (7000sqft) that is completely weeds and spotted spurge. No grass left. I want to prep the area before a reseed in the Spring. What's the best way to remove the spurge, weeds,etc such that the topsoil is roughed up? I thought about rototill, but that's seems extreme. Power rake or dethatch? I have a hand rake/dethatcher, but I'm not raking 7000sq with that


I would forget about spring and start to work on the area during summer so that you time your new grass seed to be sown in mid-August. That way it will have cooler temps for its development and will have more time before it has to endure the heat of another summer.

At this time, the only thing I would do is get a soil test for the area so you know what you're up against when the time comes. Use your state cooperative extension for that.


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## jzinckgra (Nov 25, 2019)

Deadlawn said:


> jzinckgra said:
> 
> 
> > One other question. We have another section of lawn (7000sqft) that is completely weeds and spotted spurge. No grass left. I want to prep the area before a reseed in the Spring. What's the best way to remove the spurge, weeds,etc such that the topsoil is roughed up? I thought about rototill, but that's seems extreme. Power rake or dethatch? I have a hand rake/dethatcher, but I'm not raking 7000sq with that
> ...


I did a soil report and the soil was a bit acidic for which I put down some lime recently. So what's the best way to roughen up the land?


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## Jersey_diy (Sep 5, 2020)

If it is just weeds, mow it to the ground, power rake(sun joe is awesome), spray some tenacity at seeding. whatever weeds that survive will just die off in the winter


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## jzinckgra (Nov 25, 2019)

Jersey_diy said:


> If it is just weeds, mow it to the ground, power rake(sun joe is awesome), spray some tenacity at seeding. whatever weeds that survive will just die off in the winter


The area needing prep is 200' away, so corded power rake is not an option. I could probably rent a motorized one. Although, my friend has a york rake for his skid steer. I think that would be a good option, no?


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## Old Hickory (Aug 19, 2019)

Borrow some additional power cords?


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## always_creative (Aug 28, 2020)

Old Hickory said:


> Borrow some additional power cords?


The electric dethatcher I have says it has a 100' limit for the extension cord. It risks overheating the motor if you go longer.


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## Jersey_diy (Sep 5, 2020)

I used the sun joe with probably 150 feet of cord....seemed to work. probably not the be for the machine, but it got the job done


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## Lawn Noob (Jul 26, 2020)

Borrow a small generator?


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## Deadlawn (Sep 8, 2020)

always_creative said:


> Old Hickory said:
> 
> 
> > Borrow some additional power cords?
> ...


How many amps does the dethatcher draw?


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## always_creative (Aug 28, 2020)

@Deadlawn it's a 12 Amp motor


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## Deadlawn (Sep 8, 2020)

always_creative said:


> @Deadlawn it's a 12 Amp motor


The risk of running a longer cord (or piggybacking 2-100ft cords) is increased resistance which will lower voltage and make the motor draw more current to compensate thereby overheating the motor.


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## always_creative (Aug 28, 2020)

@Deadlawn Electricity is not my strong suit. Would using a heavier gauge extension code reduce the problem? Is there a way of calculating how long of a cord can be used before overheating? Or is that more specific to the actual device?


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## Deadlawn (Sep 8, 2020)

always_creative said:


> @Deadlawn Electricity is not my strong suit. Would using a heavier gauge extension code reduce the problem? Is there a way of calculating how long of a cord can be used before overheating? Or is that more specific to the actual device?


In theory, yes, a heavier gauge cord can allow you a longer run. However, this does not change your house wiring which is still either 14 AWG or 12 AWG. So moving up from a 12 AWG 100ft. cord to a 10 AWG 100ft. cord doesn't work unless you wire a special 10 AWG outlet directly from your breaker box. Also keep in mind that a 10 AWG 100ft cord is quite expensive at over $100 each.

It may be a lot less hassle to just buy one of these:

https://powerequipment.honda.com/generators/models/eu2200i


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## Lawn Noob (Jul 26, 2020)

These kindS of oddities is why I own a 89 dollar harbor freight Tailgator generator.


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## jimmythegreek (Aug 7, 2020)

Just rent a power rake for half a day it's less than 50 bucks amd does a way better job with less headaches


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## tam (Jun 27, 2020)

Seed is relatively inexpensive, so you might as well try it.

There was a thread last year on late-season seeding that suggested pre-soaking the grass seed in ice water, then spreading, then painting the ground dark with Green Lawnger or equivalent paint, then covering with clear plastic that has holes drilled in it every few inches and tack down the plastic every three feet.

I tried it on some spots and the new grass stayed in the pout stage all through spring and then it took off. Spreading the wet seed was a pain in the neck, though.


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