# To kill the poa with these 3 herbicides



## JOE SCHMOE (May 6, 2019)

Alright after scouring the search function here on which herbicides to use to control / kill poa in my zoysia.

I'll be using Prodiamine 65 WDG, Princep Liquid Herbicide (Simazine), and Negate 37WG

Now, what's the best way to apply it? I have a 2 gallon hand pump sprayer, can I mix all three in it and then top it off with water? Then after application just water it in? Or is there a better way to get the best results with these?


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

Prodiamine is used as a pre-emergent. It won't kill anything that's already there, but it will reduce more coming up. Furthermore, February is about the time to apply pre-em to cover you through the fall; adjust the rate accordingly.

You can apply them all at the same time. The negate and simazine have a period time they need to stay on leaf before it rains/watered in. I tend to apply my application in the afternoon either when I know it's going to rain that night/tomorrow, or apply then irrigate it in the next day.


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## JOE SCHMOE (May 6, 2019)

Ah, thank you @Movingshrub This is all new to me. I just fired Weed Man lawn service and trying to learn how and what to do. Koa is my first challenge.


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

Using a 2 gallon hand can, with a 12k yard, you're going to be filling that hand can up six times. The goal is even application over the entire area. Some of us use backpack sprayers or push sprayers to cover ground more quickly

If you want to be risk adverse, spray them all separately. It reduces your chance of over applying all three chemicals in the same area. However, that would translate into filling up the hand can 18 times.


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## JOE SCHMOE (May 6, 2019)

Movingshrub said:


> Using a 2 gallon hand can, with a 12k yard, you're going to be filling that hand can up six times. The goal is even application over the entire area. Some of us use backpack sprayers or push sprayers to cover ground more quickly
> 
> If you want to be risk adverse, spray them all separately. It reduces your chance of over applying all three chemicals in the same area. However, that would translate into filling up the hand can 18 times.


I do have a Strom backpack sprayer (4 gallons) I was worried about using it for herbicides and then using later applying fertilizer and micro nutrients. (Cross contamination).

I guess as long as I wash throughly it would be fine?


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

If you only have the zoysia turf you're dealing with I wouldn't worry too much about cross-contamination. Even if you have some lingering chemical in the next application it's not going to do too much damage as your grass-type will handle it. Cross contamination is more worrisome if you have another turf which would be susceptible to complete damage from the previous chemical (For example Negate will kill Fescue so it'll be smart to make sure no lingering chemical is present before spraying your fescue portion in the next round). And roundup kills most everything hence why most ppl will just use a separate cheap sprayer for that.

EDIT: 
I just read the portion where you asked about mixing the chemicals and then adding water .. make sure you add water FIRST - halfway is generally accepted practice - and then add/mix in the chemicals. Top off with water to desired levels and spray.


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## JOE SCHMOE (May 6, 2019)

I do have sections of fescue in both the front and rear lawn. Most of the lawn is Zoysia. Probably a 90 %10% split.


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## claydus (Jun 2, 2019)

Also, need a surficant with NetGate


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## JOE SCHMOE (May 6, 2019)

claydus said:


> Also, need a surficant with NetGate


Would mixing these allow that or do I need to add the surficant also to the mix?


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## Gilley11 (Nov 3, 2019)

Add it to your mix.


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## JOE SCHMOE (May 6, 2019)

Gilley11 said:


> Add it to your mix.


Thank you!


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

JOE SCHMOE said:


> Movingshrub said:
> 
> 
> > Using a 2 gallon hand can, with a 12k yard, you're going to be filling that hand can up six times. The goal is even application over the entire area. Some of us use backpack sprayers or push sprayers to cover ground more quickly
> ...


Every time - Triple rinse the sprayer
If concerned about residual, triple rinse, and then clean with ammonia and water at rate of 1 gal of ammonia to 100 gallons of water, o go buy some tank cleaner from a farmer/co-op type place.

When spraying - 70%+ water into sprayer, add prodiamine, mix, add negate, mix, add simazine, mix, add surfactant, mix, bring up to desired water level, spray.


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## JOE SCHMOE (May 6, 2019)

Movingshrub said:


> JOE SCHMOE said:
> 
> 
> > Movingshrub said:
> ...


@Movingshrub great information! Thank you!! Got my herbicides today, will put them down tomorrow evening as it's suppose to rain Monday


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

@JOE SCHMOE - you may have better results if you spray a bit earlier in the day, being that the herbicide will need to translocate into the weed before the cold nighttime temps slows down that process. I'll let @Movingshrub confirm this but in my mind I try to target the weed when its most susceptible - during the wintertime the ideal temps are mid-day while during summertime it's more like early-morning/late-afternoon.

Also it should be noted that based on temps you're a bit late for the winter preemergent app (ideal application time is Sept/October for us), and a bit early with the summer preemergent. Simazine has some Post qualities so that one may still be worth spraying now but prodiamine is purely PRE. So if you're targeting the summer weeds (ie Crabgrass) with the Prodiamine application, know that those don't start germinating until March. I would say wait another month for ideal application time. If you're doing split apps like I do then apply the 2nd split in April to refresh your protective barrier ahead of the heavy crabgrass germination period.


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## JOE SCHMOE (May 6, 2019)

corneliani said:


> @JOE SCHMOE - you may have better results if you spray a bit earlier in the day, being that the herbicide will need to translocate into the weed before the cold nighttime temps slows down that process. I'll let @Movingshrub confirm this but in my mind I try to target the weed when its most susceptible - during the wintertime the ideal temps are mid-day while during summertime it's more like early-morning/late-afternoon.
> 
> Also it should be noted that based on temps you're a bit late for the winter preemergent app (ideal application time is Sept/October for us), and a bit early with the summer preemergent. Simazine has some Post qualities so that one may still be worth spraying now but prodiamine is purely PRE. So if you're targeting the summer weeds (ie Crabgrass) with the Prodiamine application, know that those don't start germinating until March. I would say wait another month for ideal application time. If you're doing split apps like I do then apply the 2nd split in April to refresh your protective barrier ahead of the heavy crabgrass germination period.


@corneliani, thanks...I'm planning on spraying this morning (Sunday) and let it lay on the plant all day (sunny and relatively warm (50 degrees).

I did apply granular Prodiamine back in October, thanks for the advise, I'll wait another month before I apply the Prodiamine, you and several others have suggested the same. No sense if it doesn't need to be applied now. I'll just apply the Simazine and Negate today and delay the Prodiamine till late February!


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## JOE SCHMOE (May 6, 2019)

Well, my poa is just starting to show seed heads...I applied the combination of Prodiamine, Negate, and Simazine.

Rain is in the forecast to tonight and tomorrow, so fingers crossed, I'll be able to kill most of the poa.

Question: I'm not 100% sure I used Surfactant on my back yard application, I was rushing to get it down and honestly don't remember if I mixed it in...What if I did forget to add the Surfactant??? 
Will I need to redo my back yard?


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

You won't need to redo it. Simazine and negate are both active in the soil as well.

My argument for putting down prodiamine now was to reduce the chance of anymore germinating, and if you put it down at the 1.5lb/A rate, it would get you into September, which is when you're going to be approaching a fall application.

The alternative would be to apply at a lesser rate say, a two month rate, and then reapply in a few months to get you into fall.


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## JOE SCHMOE (May 6, 2019)

Thanks to all those who helped me learn how to kill off the Poa Annua... After 2 weeks I'm just starting to see the Poa show the beginning of it's death....Hopefully in the next couple of weeks it will be eradicated for the season.

Thanks again for all the information!


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