# Soil Savvy / MySoil tests



## g-man

There is interest in members to use Soil Savvy test for their soil analysis. It costs ~$30 via amazon and it is promoted/marketed via multiple you tube channels. The price is almost double to a traditional soil testing lab.

Soil Savvy is owned by UNIBEST and they are very secretive on their test methods. Their website says:


> Soil Savvy™ uses patented ion-exchange resins which exchange hydrogen (H+) and hydroxide (OH‑) for 14 essential plant nutrients within your soil. These 14 nutrients that Soil Savvy™ detects are the bio-available forms, meaning they are the forms of nutrients which are readily available to your plant. Soil Savvy™ simulates a plant root and only uses field-moist soils for analysis.


A patented ion-exchange resin sounds interesting and important. Well that's what a soil test does. It extracts each of the soil nutrients via extractants. The extractants are known chemicals (eg ammonium acetate, potassium chloride (KCl), diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid (DTPA) and even just plain water). These extractions follow a very detailed process (eg Mehlich 3 Extraction SOP) to get repeatable results across multiple labs. This is important to be able to compare results from the soil testing to the field (aka lawn, corn yields, etc). Each test method then provides a scale of values found for each nutrient. This scale is similar to think of measuring something in inches or metric. Both are standard units of measurement traceable back to an unique distance for consistency.

Over the years of using soil test methods, research/universities have established correlations between the values found for a test method and what they see on the field. While at TLF we focus on turf/lawns, most of the research starts at the agriculture level. Yields of corn, wheat, soybeans per acre are more important for food supply. But the use of the standard test method then translated to the turf industry and acceptable ranges were established that showed good turf quality (eg MLSN , SLAN). The research continues at universities that continue to find how low we could go on P or K in the soil (see Dr. Doug Soldat or Bill Kreuser work).

I think based on the little information they posted that Soil Savvy is using a version of the H3A extraction. This is a fairly new extraction method that uses a weaker extractant. The goal of the extractant was:


> The use of a single extractant would increase laboratory productivity and decrease analysis cost.


 There have been modifications to it and I think it is up to H3A-2. The use of a new method could be a positive thing in the industry. Brookside Labs does provide a H3A-2 extraction as an option.

But here is the crux of the problem. Soil Savvy hasn't shared their method (proprietary) and how they reached their recommendations (targets). While using a standard method (M3), we could tell how a K ppm of 20 is low and the soil needs more potassium, but we cant do that with an unknown method. Until they release more information and it could be verified by multiple sources that the results have an improvement, then it is all a black box. You just have to *blindly* trust them. To go even further, their result page used to say that pH could be off by -0.5, which is significant. They have removed that statement from their report. It also used to say that additional micros and *lime* might be beneficial. Now they removed the lime from that blanket catch all statement.

Are all other labs/methods perfect? no. We have discovered errors in some of them when the values dont make sense. Some test are not great for high pH soils. But overall we know what to expect and can get repeatable results in multiple soils types.

In summary, we don't know how they are testing, how they are coming up with recommendations and it cost almost twice of any decent lab.

edit:
I had more background info to add to the H3A test method. The test is called Haney Test or Soil Health Test by different labs. 
Midwest labs - Haney Test Explanation
Ward Lab - Haney Information
 Agweb - What do Soil Health test really tell you
Colorado State - Haney meaningful?


> He concluded that "extensive field calibration research is required for confirming interpretative (Haney) models, using both field experiments and observational data analysis"


Brookside Soil Health 


> However, with that being said we do not have 50 years of research backing this information like we do with current soil testing methodology. We have approximately 2 years of data and will continue to refine and update this information as we move forward.


Brookside Sample report

An opinion in the Haney test
Haney Test good for what? 

PS
I think this could be controversial post. Please lets keep the spirit of TLF and discuss the subject with facts but no people bashing. We all know UNIBEST spends money promoting their product thru youtube, so lets not take it on the YouTube content creators.

MySoil Testing
There is a new mail order soil test company. It is called MySoil Testing. It also uses an Ion-Exchange Resin method. So it the similar to Soil Savvy.


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## Ridgerunner

Very, very well said. 
Any controversy should be limited to a "battle" of facts. I, too, would hope that there would be no personal attacks during any discussion of this topic. I see this as a PSA of caveat emptor.


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## Pete1313

@g-man, great post and well written! :thumbsup:


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## SNOWBOB11

Nice post G.


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## Ridgerunner

I wish I knew how to copy and paste Soil Savvy tests to @g-man 's Soil Savvy thread so we could use them to promote discussion and compare them to the tests of other labs. Keep in mind that the sufficient/optimal ranges for established soil tests are based on a whole growing season for needed nutrients, whereas per Soil Savvy, their recommendations are only for a period between fertilizer applications (4-6 weeks?).
That notwithstanding, let's reverse engineer Soil Savvy recommendations (here are two recent tests :
@MarkAguglia 
Soil Savvy recommends that Mark apply 3.75#/M of 16-16-16 fertilizer.

They report that Mark's current N level is 4.97 ppm
They identify 8-16 ppm to be the optimal range for Total N
3.75 lbs/M of 16-16-16 will supply an additional 13 ppm for a total of 17.97 ppm of N
3.75 X .16 = 0.6 lbs/M of N
0.6 X 43.56 = 26.136 lbs of N per acre at the 6" depth
26.136 / 2 = 13 ppm.

They report that Mark's current P level is 2.22 ppm
They identify 4-10 ppm to be the optimal range for Total P
3.75 lbs/M of 16-16-16 will supply an additional 5.68 ppm of P for a total of 7.9 ppm of P
3.75 X .16 = 0.6 lbs/M of P2O5
0.6 X 43.56 = 26.136 lbs of P2O5 per acre at the 6" depth
26.136 / 2.3 = 11.36 lbs o P/acre
11.36 / 2 = 5.68 ppm of P

They report that Mark's current K level is 2.36 ppm
They identify 30-55 ppm to be the optimal range for Total K
3.75 lbs/M of 16-16-16 will supply an additional 10.89 ppm of K for a total of 13.25 ppm of K
3.75 X .16 = 0.6 lbs/M of K2O
0.6 X 43.56 = 26.136 lbs of K2O per acre at the 6" depth
26.136 / 1.2 = 21.78 lbs of K/acre
21.78 / 2 = 10.89 ppm of K

@LivItWell

Soil Savvy recommends that Livitwell apply 10#/M of 0-0-60 fertilizer.

They report that Livitwell's current K level is 13.70 ppm
They identify 30-55 ppm to be the optimal range for Total K
10 lbs/M of 0-0-60 will supply an additional 108.9 ppm of K for a total of 122.6 ppm of K
10 X .60 = 6 lbs/M of K2O
6 X 43.56 = 261.36 lbs of K2O per acre at the 6" depth
261.36 / 1.2 = 217.8 lbs of K/acre
217.8 / 2 = 108.9 ppm of K


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## g-man

Mark Aguglia


LivitWell


Tommy Tester


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## Ridgerunner

@TommyTester

Soil Savvy recommends that Tommy apply 2.75#/M of 21-0-0 and 10.5 lbs/M of 0-0-60.

They report that Tommy's current N level is 5.46 ppm
They identify 8-16 ppm to be the optimal range for Total N
2.75 lbs/M of 21-0-0 will supply an additional 12.5 ppm for a total of 18 ppm of N
2.75 X .21 = 0.5775 lbs/M of N
0.5775 X 43.56 = 25.15 lbs of N per acre at the 6" depth
24.15 / 2 = 12.5 ppm.

They report that Tommy's current K level is 11.61 ppm
They identify 30-55 ppm to be the optimal range for Total K
10.5 lbs/M of 0-0-60 will supply an additional 114.3 ppm of K for a total of 125.91 ppm of K
10.5 X .60 = 6.3 lbs/M of K2O
6.3 X 43.56 = 274.42 lbs of K2O per acre at the 6" depth
274.42 / 1.2 = 228.69 lbs of K/acre
228.69 / 2 = 114.3 ppm of K


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## TommyTester

If we assume the K test was accurate, and that the 30-55ppm is reasonable, then shouldn't we adjust the K recommendation to fit that range?


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## g-man

Bingo. Their own recommendations is over shooting their ppm range by ~80ppm. It could be that they assume that all the applied potassium will not be available to the plant (weak extraction), there are not accounting for it.

I think it will be interesting to send your soil sample to a traditional lab and that way we could compare.


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## g-man

FYI, I did an edit to the original post last night to add more references for the H3A test.


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## TommyTester

g-man said:


> I think it will be interesting to send your soil sample to a traditional lab and that way we could compare.


 :thumbup: 
I'll do that. I'm also going to send Soil Savvy an email asking to explain their K recommendation.


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## MarkAguglia

g-man said:


> Bingo. Their own recommendations is over shooting their ppm range by ~80ppm. It could be that they assume that all the applied potassium will not be available to the plant (weak extraction), there are not accounting for it.
> 
> I think it will be interesting to send your soil sample to a traditional lab and that way we could compare.


You do some amazing work on here... 2 questions:

1. Where do you suggest I do a soil test and how do I go about it? I only choose Soil Savvy based on the convenience of buying the kit online. I definitely would prefer to use a different lab, but am unsure where to start.

2. If SS suggests I use 16-16-16 @ 3.75/M, my K level will still be far under what it suggests based on your #'s (which are much appreciated!). Should I look be for SOP? I haven't found a good source yet. Or, will my current plan be enough to make up the difference- I'll be using starter fert 18-24-12 in Spring &Fall, Spring prodiamine 0-0-7, Ringer 10-0-6, Air8 0-0-5, Microgreene 0-0-2 throughout the season. I'm not sure how to calculate the ppm those would provide.

THANKS!


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## jdc_lawnguy

I posted a thread about testing below.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=7162

Also at the top of the Soil Fertility board there is a like Popular Soil Fertility and Soil Testing Threads

@g-man has a good write up in the first post or two.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=3124


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## rob13psu

This is great. Thanks @g-man! I used SS last year and am using Cornell this spring. I'm curious to see the difference in results between SS and a reputable lab.


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## TommyTester

Question now sent to Soil Savvy on their K recommendation level.
Soil sample now collected and sent in to Waypoint in Iowa, plus collected enough to resend to Soil Savvy if necessary.


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## TommyTester

TommyTester said:


> I'm also going to send Soil Savvy an email asking to explain their K recommendation.


I've just heard back from Soil Savvy on their K recommendation of 10#/1000 0-0-60:

"Thank you for choosing Soil Savvy for your soil testing needs. Currently our reporting and recommended rates takes into account product efficacy backed through fertilizer product testing. A rate of 10.5 lb 0-0-60 is high and would need to be broken up in to multiple applications. We recommend staying within manufacturers suggests application rate for this, probably applying 10.5lbs over 4 applications. Please don't hesitate to contact me should you have any further questions or concerns. "

I'm not impressed with this answer. :roll:


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## HoosierLawnGnome

Yeah this is such a broad topic, it's really difficult to weigh in. Not only is there the method by which a vendor tests the soil, but the context in which they interpret the results, the guidelines for taking the samples, the optimal target goal you compare the results to in order to imply levels of nutrients, and the target audience to which you tailor all the above so they can translate into appropriate actionable items.

It's an entire system.

Gone are the days farmers were backwoods ******** subsisting on small farms. Now farms are run by agricultural engineers farming large swaths of land operated by mega corporations.


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## Ridgerunner

TommyTester said:


> If we assume the K test was accurate, and that the 30-55ppm is reasonable, then shouldn't we adjust the K recommendation to fit that range?


Exactly, that's the concern. Ranges, whether they are called sufficient, average, optimal or target are ideally the range in which nutrient levels should result in "not poor performing" plants/turf. Ranges should represent the calibrating of the measured results of the soil test (testing methods/extracts)to plant performance based on multiple field studies. Without proper calibration, it doesn't matter how well correlated the test method might be to an individual nutrient.
Soil tests shouldn't be employed to identify some perfect ideal number value. The differences in soils, climates and plants are too dynamic and the nutrient levels aren't that critically exacting for that to be the case. Soil tests are nothing more than a "measuring stick", best employed for comparison between tests of the same soil and crop. Ranges are guidance tools, a suggested starting value from which adjustment is made for refinement based on resulting crop yield changes for farming or visual feed back for turf. Properly employed, they can identify extremes (deficiencies, excesses and ratios) that could be a source of poor plant/turf performance. However, testing is useful in identify these extremes and what adjustments should be made to correct them only if the test has been accurately calibrated through sufficient and reliable field studies.


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## TheTurfTamer

Hey Guys,

So my first soil report of the year shows an extremely high Sulfur count. This one has me stumped. My turf greened up in 2 weeks and looks amazing! I mixed 8 samples taken 4-6 inches deep. Any ideas on sulfur? My Fert applications this year have been Gypsum soil conditioner in FEB, ( 5-5-5 organic manure in March ) and 13-13-13 in April. That's it.


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## Babaganoosh

Has anyone pulled a sample and sent it to multiple labs yet?


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## Buffalolawny

HandyDadTV on youtube just sent the same soil tests to two different testers through the mail.

https://youtu.be/WfmLpyE8L_U


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## wiredawg

My first time doing a soil test used the Soil Savvy kit, took my samples on 12 Apr 2019 and saw my results today 22 Apr 2019, it could have been there earlier figured I'd give them the 10 days, below are my results. Not too surprising, I guess. Over the years I've been mainly using Milorganite (was 5-4-0 now 6-4-0). And at the beginning of the season (early spring I would use a 10-10-10 or 13-13-13, depending on what was available). Though, the PH did surprise me a bit, not that I got anything to reference. But, I do have those weak spots here and there. My lawn is nothing like those posted here. But, mine is probably the best in my neighborhood. LOL I also included a comparison pic below from 18 Apr 2018 & 18 Apr 2019. The only difference here is I started using the N-Ext Products (RGS & Humic-12) in Jun of 2018. And in the Apr 2019 Pic I did an application of 13-13-13 along with RGS & Humic-12 at the end of Mar 2019. So looks like the N-Ext RGS & Humic-12 is working. Hopefully, getting my "K/potash" and PH up to target should really kick my lawn into over drive. I got a bag of 0-0-62 (MOP granules) and looks like I should only put out no more than a pound of potash (1.61 lbs per 1000 sq ft) per application according to the instructions I guess I'll do this monthly... also, picked a bag of Limestone soil amendment to raise the PH. It says 5lb per 1000 sq ft or 12lb per 1000 sq ft less 6PH...anywho wish my luck.


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## joallen001

I used soil savvy and a local co op. Results were totally different between the two. So far waypoint seems to be pretty consistent.


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## g-man

This thread has a soil tested with both methods. Look at the difference in pH and Fe to MN ratio.


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## Drewmey

joallen001 said:


> I used soil savvy and a local co op. Results were totally different between the two. So far waypoint seems to be pretty consistent.


Can you post both results?

It is possible that the Soil Savy test are consistent but just reporting different numbers. Maybe with enough people posting, we can find some patterns. At least enough to make suggestions for people and then recommend they switch to something else the following year.


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## JRS 9572

@g-man I'm in the water filtration business. Any lab. Whether they be testing blood, or soil must have water used in the testing process to be free of any ions. That's called deionized (DI) water. The resins they describe are used to make deionized water which is equal to what is known as triple distilled. Cation resin takes out all the positively charged ions, and the anion resin removes the negative ions. So at the end there's nothing left but water.

If you have elements (ions) in the water used in the soil testing process, then the elements (ions) in their water will show up in your soil test. So it won't be very accurate.

Any reputable lab will have the same equipment as these folks just "puffed up," and if they don't have a "system" they could use 1 gallon distilled water from the grocery store.


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## g-man

@Cav1 Check the first post of this thread.


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## RDZed

Obviously I'm going to be in the outlier here but I like the SS tests. Dont know how accurate they are but I've been using them solely for 4 years now, 2x a year and the trends have been fairly consistent to what I've needed and what I've done. I dont acknowledge their "recommended" blurb because its unobtainable in my soil, but I have no issues with SS.

Honestly, I think it's more about consistency. If you're analysis jumping, you're going to be all over the place. The trends are your friends, whatever you do.


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## ktgrok

They got my money this week because my local extension office requires me to drive an hour round trip to get a "kit", and then mail it in (paying for postage) and payment can only be by check, and I'm out of checks and ordering them will take me a few weeks.


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## RDZed

My extension service uses VT. I need to pay $9.99 for the bag and box from Colonial Heights city, pay $12.00 to ship it to Blacksburg, wait 4-6 weeks and pay another $12.00 to ship the results back. They're out of their minds.


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## RDZed

I'd rather pay $26 and have results in 5 days.


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## Greendoc

RDZed said:


> My extension service uses VT. I need to pay $9.99 for the bag and box from Colonial Heights city, pay $12.00 to ship it to Blacksburg, wait 4-6 weeks and pay another $12.00 to ship the results back. They're out of their minds.


Ship results back? I get my results E Mailed back from Waypoint. Do not want to know what it would cost to "ship" results back to Hawaii.


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## ktgrok

Wow, as backwards as my university testing is, with their checks only policy, they do email you the results, and it is supposed to be within days of receiving the sample.


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## g-man

The commercial services are cheaper and faster with known methods, but if soil savvy is working for you, then keep using it.


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## g-man

@Highyellow1 check the first post of this thread.


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## ktgrok

in the video his Iron is low on Soil Savvy but high on the other test. I'm wondering if the difference is because Soil Savvy claims to tell you the available nutrient level, and something about his soil is making it less available - maybe the high phosphorus or something? Or that Soil Savvy has higher baseline levels?

I'd rather have used my state university but Soil Savvy takes credit cards, and I don't have to drive 30 minutes each way to get the kit....sorry lawn, you get what you get.


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## ktgrok

in the video his Iron is low on Soil Savvy but high on the other test. I'm wondering if the difference is because Soil Savvy claims to tell you the available nutrient level, and something about his soil is making it less available - maybe the high phosphorus or something? Or that Soil Savvy has higher baseline levels?

I'd rather have used my state university but Soil Savvy takes credit cards, and I don't have to drive 30 minutes each way to get the kit....sorry lawn, you get what you get.


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## g-man

@ktgrok I know waypoint takes my credit card. I sample into a Ziploc bag, place in a USPS small box with the form. They call me for CC info within 3days and results are online 2min after paying. Super simple. Midwest labs, ward, logan and A&L are similar.


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## ktgrok

g-man said:


> @ktgrok I know waypoint takes my credit card. I sample into a Ziploc bag, place in a USPS small box with the form. They call me for CC info within 3days and results are online 2min after paying. Super simple. Midwest labs, ward, logan and A&L are similar.


Good to know! Do you need a special kit, or any ziplock bag will do? Curious if it is just printing out a form, filling a bag, and sending off or what.


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## g-man

Any kitchen Ziploc bag. I normally double bag it with around a cup of soil. The form you just print it, fill it and place it in the box. You can send multiples in one box (labeled: front, back, neighbor, uncle yard).


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## ktgrok

g-man said:


> Any kitchen Ziploc bag. I normally double bag it with around a cup of soil. The form you just print it, fill it and place it in the box. You can send multiples in one box (labeled: front, back, neighbor, uncle yard).


Sweet! I'll probably do that next time!


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## Highyellow1

@g-man Thanks for the video reference and I'm also going to look into those labs for my next test.


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## g-man

@Highyellow1 video? I mean this post.


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## Ridgerunner

Assuming that Soil Savvy is a valid test (and that is a pretty big assumption as there are no published studies regarding correlation/calibration and the extractant is proprietary and unknown), the results and recommendations are "short term" adjustments and retesting prior to each fertilizer application is recommended and required (per Soil Savvy replies to inquiry). Due to this lack of information, only Soil Savvy can interpret their results. If using Soil Savvy to determine soil nutrient levels, use their fertilizer recommendations and re-test prior to each future application.


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## Highyellow1

g-man said:


> @Highyellow1 video? I mean this post.


 :lol: :lol:

Oh, I thought you were saying watch the video. Ok, I've been reading through the posts as well which is why I commented that I'll look at one of the other options going into next year. Or is it better to do it in the fall before I lay down fertilizer & herbicide?


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## ktgrok

So, I got my results. Mailed the sample on Monday from Florida (lab is in WA) and had results Friday afternoon. Looks like the UF people are right and I shouldn't need phosphorus on an ongoing basis (and in fact, it is illegal to use it here without proof of low P results from a lab) but wondering if it won't hurt to put down the 10-10-10 I have just for today, on the new seedlings. Going forward I'll look for phosphorus free formulas, once this bag is gone. Or is my P high enough that I should just return this and get a non phosphorus formula now, to avoid binding up nutrients?

A bit concerned that the pH is borderline for Bermuda - SS says 5.8, my other test said just about 6, so I'm not going to worry too much but will retest the pH in the future.

I did put down milorganite about 6 weeks ago.


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## SoilSecrets

To me, your N & P looks more than sufficient to support turfgrass growth. Your K needs improvement especially with the summer here. You might consider getting a fertilizer with little to no P and focus on getting some fertilizer with more potassium since Milogranite 6-4-0 has less than 1% potassium (i.e. effectively 0%) especially with the summer here.


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## Redeye

Waters Ag Lab charges $7.50 and Matt Martin uses them. 24 hour turn around. Excellent Lab!


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## Phaseshift

I've been trying to decide how to do my soil test and Soil Savvy has come up a few times. What do you guys recommend to be the best to use? Easiest and fastest?


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## g-man

@Phaseshift check the Soil thread in my signature for recommendations.


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## g-man

bump


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## sheiraas

I know I would need Nitrogen as its spring. I am concerned with the high sodium and calcium. Should I be and what can be done? Also PH is in optimal but a little high. If i use a 0-0-2 microgreen for micros will that be enough? Thanks
This is my first spring after a full renovation last fall so I will be pushing some N shortly. Its still only in the 40s where I am located.


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## bushwacked

this looks like the new company he is working with ... not Soil Savvy, correct?


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