# Please Help Me Take My Lawn From Great to Perfect



## jpzsports (Jun 1, 2021)

I've made great progress over the past year to really improve my lawn and appreciate all the help from this forum. I'm dealing with 3 issues currently that I would appreciate some advice on. I am in NH.

1. My lawn overall is the best it's ever been. Here are some photos.




When I get close up on some spots, I am finding some lesions that appear to be fungus.





I dealt with some bad fungus struggles several months ago and did 2 apps of Propiconazole which helped tremendously. Do I need to apply Azoxystrobin or is it not needed since it is winter season here?

2. The edge of my lawn is struggling for some reason and looks like straw. Is this due to lack of sunlight or fungus or what?




3. I dethatched my lawn somewhat aggressively several months back and I've noticed some patches of a different grass are popping up at various places throughout my lawn. Up close, it looks like healthy, green, dense grass. But it really stands out as patches among my KBG lawn due to it's slightly brighter green color. Any thoughts as to what grass type this is and what I should do about it?








Thank you!!


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## john5246 (Jul 21, 2019)

It already looks good, there's isn't a whole lot left to do to improve other than

1. Mow to the most attractive height (maybe that's lower for your grass)
2. Add more iron for deeper green if you prefer that
3. And in that first photo make sure you edge along the driveway! It makes a big difference in appearance. 
4. Keep a sharp blade.

The next level golf course type lawn requires some more investment beyond what a sane person is willing to do. For example, ordering a truck load of sand and spreading it along with investing in a reel mower (vs rotary which is the standard for homeowners). .

Focus more on soil management rather than the grass. If you get the soil right you will have great grass. In other words get a soil test once a year until your nutrients are where they need to be (as well as ph). They are inexpensive, maybe $30 or so.

If that part of the lawn that's yellow is not getting enough light turn it into a bed and plant shrugs or something. I'm not sure that's why but that is a solution. The grass will tell you where it wants to grow.


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## jpzsports (Jun 1, 2021)

Good advice! I greatly appreciate all the feedback!


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## Jacks_Designs (May 4, 2020)

I've spent the last 2 years fixing mistakes from the previous owner. Then I decided to renovate 1k sq ft as a test section. Best decision I've made. Only regret now was not doing it all at once. Having an elite cultivar makes a world of a difference.


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## Kmartel (Feb 12, 2019)

Looks like poa trivialis in those last few pictures. I would verify by using an identification key.


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## jpzsports (Jun 1, 2021)

Kmartel said:


> Looks like poa trivialis in those last few pictures. I would verify by using an identification key.


Yes, unfortunately I think you are right. I dove into my research about poa triv and that is definitely it. Ugh...

At this point in the year, I suppose I just will leave it and deal with it in the spring, right?

I think I will try pulling out all the patches in the spring and then reseed with KBG. 
2 questions:
1. Normally I apply pre-emergent in the spring. Would it be okay for me to do some seeding first in these areas will I pull out the poa triv and then after it germinates, can I apply the pre-emergent to prevent crabgrass, etc?
2. Any recommendations for the best KBG cultivar for shade?


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## Rxrep (Jun 9, 2021)

jpzsports said:


> Kmartel said:
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In the NTEP, the best cultivar under shade whose seed is readily available is Mazama. Bright green areas are pla triv. or annua. I got rid of it by killing it with glyphosate and reseeding. I also use Dimension herbicide here in NJ in late March and early September to prevent the poa from germinating. Finally, I would incorporate fungicides to treat but better yet prevent fungus. I started doing that this year, rotating between propiconazole and azoxystrobin, on my Midnight monostand and it made a HUGE difference in the quality of the turf at various times in the growing season. Having kept a lawn diary the previous year, I knew when fungus would emerge. Good luck.


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## jpzsports (Jun 1, 2021)

Rxrep said:


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Thank you! Very helpful. How often or what months do you apply the fungicides? When do you stop applying?


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## Rxrep (Jun 9, 2021)

jpzsports said:


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The best thing to do regarding fungus disease and timing, is to keep a lawn diary for an entire growing season so that you know the approximate time when problems start. Knowing that, you can time your preventative applications a week to to 10 days prior. I can tell you what I do here in Southern NJ but that may not be the right timing for you where you live. Having said that, I apply Propiconazole in late April/very early May to prevent Rust disease. I follow up with Azoxystrobin around May 20 - 25 and another app of Azoxy about a month later to prevent Leaf spot. Do not use more than two consecutive apps of Azoxystrobin without using a different fungicide in between. I apply propiconazole again around September 15 and Azoxystrobin again mid October to prevent Rust again. If I see any Powdery mildew in November I hit it with the propiconazole again but this year that has not been necessary so far. The biggest diseases in my area for KBG especially my Midnight monostand are: Rust, Leaf Spot, and Powdery Mildew. The best antifungals for them that are available generically and are not expensive if you buy a concentrate are:
Rust: Azoxystrobn, Propiconazole, 
Leaf Spot/Melting out: Aoxystrobin, Mancozeb
Powdery Mildew: Propiconazole
I use the following guide: http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs/PPA/PPA1/PPA1.pdf
Under each disease you will see efficacy numbers for each fungicide.
I have about 8K sq ft of grass. If you don't have some way of applying quickly, it can take a lot of time. Years ago I bought a push sprayer: https://www.golfcourseindustry.com/product/gci-products-wheel-spray-grounds/
I mix in a 5 gallon bucket, making 4 gallons at a time and then spray. It takes me about 30 mins as the swath on the dual nozzle boom is about 5 feet. It sprays 1 gallon/1K sq. ft. 
The rest of my regimen using granular products is:
Andersons Dimension herbicide: Late March, Early September (Crabgrass and Poa preventative)
Scotts Turf Builder: Early: April, May June, September, October, November.
My Midnight monostand gets compliments all the time, with some folks telling me it's the nicest lawn they've ever seen. Lol. Because it's a monostand it is extremely uniform. It's not perfect, but then again no turf is. I can post pics sometime but don't have time now. I hope this helps. Good Luck!


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## Rxrep (Jun 9, 2021)

By the way, I estimate my material costs this year using the aforementioned program is about $50-$55/1k sq. ft. That's for the entire growing season. Also forgot to mention, it's important to be able to identify what fungus you're dealing with. Rust and powdery mildew are easy. Leaf spot/melting out a little trickier. There a plenty of images online that are very helpful.


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## Rxrep (Jun 9, 2021)

Ok, just took 3 quick picks before I leave for work.


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## jpzsports (Jun 1, 2021)

Rxrep said:


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Thanks for your detailed post! This is great advice. Much appreciated!


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## Rxrep (Jun 9, 2021)

My pleasure. My apologies to the organic folks. 😂 Btw I actually grew some Mazama in a pot this fall just to test it out and see what it's like as I have a very small area that is somewhat shady that I'm thinking of seeding with it. Here's a picture of it. It's a fine bladed bluegrass with a vigorous upright growth habit. Color is on the dark side.


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## Captquin (Aug 22, 2019)

Light spots look like Triv to me.


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## jpzsports (Jun 1, 2021)

Captquin said:


> Light spots look like Triv to me.


Yeah, after doing more research I definitely agree it must be poa triv.

Can I just pull out those patches by hand in the spring and reseed with KBG?


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## Captquin (Aug 22, 2019)

Yes sir. Rip it out and plant.


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## Lawn Noob (Jul 26, 2020)

jpzsports said:


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That didn't work for me. It always came back when torn out. I had to kill it with glyphosate. I still have a few small areas I'll nuke in spring.


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## jpzsports (Jun 1, 2021)

Lawn Noob said:


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Good to know. How soon after spraying the Glyphosate did you cut it out and how soon after can you put seed down?


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## Lawn Noob (Jul 26, 2020)

jpzsports said:


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I glyphosated the poa twice about a week apart. I seeded the same day as I sprayed glyphosate the second time. I did not remove the poa. It died off as the fescue came up.


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