# Pressure Washer Recommendations



## cnet24

Somewhat lawn related- looking for recommendations for pressure washers. I'd like to have one for around the house for general siding & brick cleaning, as well as use for driveway & cars. I was looking at this Ryobi that has really good reviews, but wondering what others might recommend.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-3000-PSI-2-3-GPM-Honda-Gas-Pressure-Washer-RY803001/303316335


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## kur1j

I'm actually in the same boat. Looking for something to clean around the house. I would like to get something with a Honda motor.


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## marshtj

I love Honda motors, but for a pressure washer pat particular attention to the pump brand. I like CAT pumps. I've had a 3,300 PSI Ridgid with a CAT pump that is going strong after 8+ years of use by myself and all of our friends.


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## cnet24

@kur1j agreed. The Ryobi 2,900 PSI doesn't have a Honda but the 3,000 PSI does. But it also comes at a $50 difference.


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## kur1j

@marshtj Is there different types of pumps? At least at a consumer level.

I was looking at the Simpson. Would love to get the GX Honda motor version but it's 150$ more.

Simpson Cleaning MSH3125-S 3200 PSI at 2.5 GPM Gas Pressure Washer Powered by HONDA with OEM Technologies Axial Cam Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MXKUCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4EaiBbV9TQB61


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## Michael303

If I was looking at a new pressure washer I'd probably try and grab one from Harbor Freight on sale. The Predator engines are Honda clones and seem to get positive feedback everywhere. I was thinking about piecing together a washer with the Predator engine but couldn't do it for much less than the turnkey unit.


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## Rackhouse Mayor

kur1j said:


> @marshtj Is there different types of pumps? At least at a consumer level.
> 
> I was looking at the Simpson. Would love to get the GX Honda motor version but it's 150$ more.
> 
> Simpson Cleaning MSH3125-S 3200 PSI at 2.5 GPM Gas Pressure Washer Powered by HONDA with OEM Technologies Axial Cam Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MXKUCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4EaiBbV9TQB61


Yes there are. This article may be of use to you: https://pressurewashr.com/pressure-washer-pumps/

I just pulled the trigger on a pressure washer last weekend. I went with the DeWalt badged Simpson that HD sells. It was on sale, and I couldn't find the equivalent Simpson model locally. Also, Consumer Reports has it listed as their highest rated model - whatever that's worth.

When looking for a pressure washer I recommend you get one with a Honda motor and Triplex pump. I think the most important thing about pressure washers is reading the manual and storing it properly. After reading the manual to my new one this weekend I realized I haven't stored pressure washers properly in the past.


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## MasterMech

With washers, the engine brand doesn't really matter. Especially on homeowner grade, sub-$500 machines. Almost any engine is guaranteed to outlive the pump, and the replacement pump is likely to meet or exceed the original purchase cost. You will get what you pay for, that said, there are some pretty nice machines for home-owner duty at the $400 price point.


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## cnet24

@MasterMech do you have any thoughts on what pumps to look for? Any recommendations at the price point you listed?


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## pennstater2005

@cnet24 Just curious, does it have to be gas?


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## cnet24

pennstater2005 said:


> @cnet24 Just curious, does it have to be gas?


I'm going back and forth on this. I like the range of gas as I have a decent sized lot and don't want to be dealing with long extension cords, etc. With the electric, you are essentially dealing with a hose, electric cord, and gun hose. I just forsee many issues dealing with that. However, storage of gas is a concern since it won't be used as frequently as my mower, for example. I'm also wondering, is the 3000 PSI model too much for general use?


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## pennstater2005

I have the Greenworks electric power washer. It's currently on sale for $79. It has done an excellent job thus far on siding, wood deck, and cement block.

I had the same concerns regarding hose, cord, and pressure washer gun hose. However, the gun hose is long as well as the electric cord so you end up with quite a bit of play without ever having to move the water hose.

It's small so it stores nicely as well. You can always return it if it doesn't meet your needs and if it does you only spent $79!

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Greenworks-1600-PSI-1-2-Gallon-GPM-Cold-Water-Electric-Pressure-Washer/50353388


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## 95mmrenegade

I ended up with the electric start Ryobi with a Subaru engine and love it. I use it 1-2x per week to wash cars, sidewalks, house, ect. Starts extremely easy, wide can start it with no issues. Pull the choke, turn the gas on, push the button and it starts.


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## MasterMech

cnet24 said:


> @MasterMech do you have any thoughts on what pumps to look for? Any recommendations at the price point you listed?


Pressure washers are pretty simple machines really. There are no real design tricks or advantages, only compromises. My advice for homeowners looking at pressure washers is to start with the task. If this machine will be only be used to clean the patio furniture, a wood fence once a year and other small jobs, then even the small electric ones do a fine job, and I'd prob stay electric vs gas in that case too. Consider hiring out the annual driveway/sidewalk/house cleaning as those jobs take forever and a day with a small washer.

If you are the DIY type and really enjoy playing with your toys, then you have some more options for sure. I can't stress this enough, money buys performance. I really don't see value in "extras" like on-board detergent tanks, electric start, chrome wheels, etc. I want a good engine, (preferably horizontal crankshaft) and an even better pump.

You can overcome a couple hundred psi difference with proper nozzle/accessory selection, flow is what matters the most. In short, I'd take a 2500 psi 3.0 gpm unit over 3000 psi 2.5 gpm every time. That's a general rule of thumb of course, because until they start publishing the flow curve for the pumps, you don't really know how one pump would compare to another for any given application.

I'll pay for long-life flexible hoses, and a quality spray gun. Nozzles and other accessories are easily obtained so I don't pay much attention to that for the initial purchase.

You CAN buy powerful electric units. They aren't cheap, which just reinforces that the price indicates and emphasizes the quality of the pump, more than the engine. You also are limited by how much power you can draw from a 120v/20a wall receptical via a long extension cord. 10AWG 100' extension cords cost more than a gas engine these days. :shock: But HD electric units are awesome to use and do run somewhat quieter than equivalent gas units.

I know this question is coming, I have a John Deere branded unit. Cold water only, 3000psi/3.0 gpm. Top-shelf AR pump, had a 7 year warranty on the pump. 9 HP Subaru EX premium engine. It does everything I need and does it fairly quick. Sometimes a little more flow would be handy to get things like my driveway done quicker. Mi-T-M is the OEM for my unit, they make fantastic pressure washers for everything from residential through commercial/municipal (read: sewer!) applications. I do enjoy window shopping on sites like Pressure Washers Direct just to see what's out there and the current price points. But I'm not likely to actually need another pressure washer - ever. So I live vicariously through all y'all. :bandit:


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## cnet24

MasterMech said:


> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MasterMech do you have any thoughts on what pumps to look for? Any recommendations at the price point you listed?
> 
> 
> 
> Pressure washers are pretty simple machines really. There are no real design tricks or advantages, only compromises. My advice for homeowners looking at pressure washers is to start with the task. If this machine will be only be used to clean the patio furniture, a wood fence once a year and other small jobs, then even the small electric ones do a fine job, and I'd prob stay electric vs gas in that case too. Consider hiring out the annual driveway/sidewalk/house cleaning as those jobs take forever and a day with a small washer.
> 
> If you are the DIY type and really enjoy playing with your toys, then you have some more options for sure. I can't stress this enough, money buys performance. I really don't see value in "extras" like on-board detergent tanks, electric start, chrome wheels, etc. I want a good engine, (preferably horizontal crankshaft) and an even better pump.
> 
> You can overcome a couple hundred psi difference with proper nozzle/accessory selection, flow is what matters the most. In short, I'd take a 2500 psi 3.0 gpm unit over 3000 psi 2.5 gpm every time. That's a general rule of thumb of course, because until they start publishing the flow curve for the pumps, you don't really know how one pump would compare to another for any given application.
> 
> I'll pay for long-life flexible hoses, and a quality spray gun. Nozzles and other accessories are easily obtained so I don't pay much attention to that for the initial purchase.
> 
> You CAN buy powerful electric units. They aren't cheap, which just reinforces that the price indicates and emphasizes the quality of the pump, more than the engine. You also are limited by how much power you can draw from a 120v/20a wall receptical via a long extension cord. 10AWG 100' extension cords cost more than a gas engine these days. :shock: But HD electric units are awesome to use and do run somewhat quieter than equivalent gas units.
> 
> I know this question is coming, I have a John Deere branded unit. Cold water only, 3000psi/3.0 gpm. Top-shelf AR pump, had a 7 year warranty on the pump. 9 HP Subaru EX premium engine. It does everything I need and does it fairly quick. Sometimes a little more flow would be handy to get things like my driveway done quicker. Mi-T-M is the OEM for my unit, they make fantastic pressure washers for everything from residential through commercial/municipal (read: sewer!) applications. I do enjoy window shopping on sites like Pressure Washers Direct just to see what's out there and the current price points. But I'm not likely to actually need another pressure washer - ever. So I live vicariously through all y'all. :bandit:
Click to expand...











I really appreciate this feedback, this is what makes this forum so awesome :thumbup:

I agree with hiring out the big jobs- I'll probably pick up a Sun Joe or comparable unit for small jobs around the house.


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## Colonel K0rn

For what it's worth, I've used my Troy Bilt 2,600 PSI 2.3 GPM pressure washer with a Honda GCV 160 motor on it for over a decade. It starts with the first pull season after season. I remember wanting to buy one with a Honda motor when I was in the market for a washer, and my wife tried to talk me into buying a lesser expensive model. I didn't budge, and I have a quality machine that still works great.

Looks like the newer models have 3100 PSI and 2.7 GPM pumps The price is about what I paid way back when. If mine broke today, I'd not hesitate to go buy this as a replacement.


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## TN Hawkeye

Colonel K0rn said:


> For what it's worth, I've used my Troy Bilt 2,600 PSI 2.3 GPM pressure washer with a Honda GCV 160 motor on it for over a decade. It starts with the first pull season after season. I remember wanting to buy one with a Honda motor when I was in the market for a washer, and my wife tried to talk me into buying a lesser expensive model. I didn't budge, and I have a quality machine that still works great.
> 
> Looks like the newer models have 3100 PSI and 2.7 GPM pumps The price is about what I paid way back when. If mine broke today, I'd not hesitate to go buy this as a replacement.


That newer Troy bilt is the exact model I just bought. I used it on the driveway and concrete steps and really liked it. It's pretty loud but most pressure washers will be. One thing to remember is the listed psi and flow rate are maximums. You will not get both at the same time. With my model at 3100 psi I think I get 2.4 gpm. At 2800 psi I get 2.7 gpm. It varies by the tip you are using.


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## cnet24

Thanks @Colonel K0rn . I ended up getting a Ryobi 2000 PSI electric model. Used it for the first time this weekend and works great!


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## Sam23

I was liking the SPX3000


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## kur1j

Is buying a "used" pressure washer much of a risk? Is it something that you would recommend buying new?

I found these in my local facebook marketplace. One is new in box, the other is used.

Looking to stay around 400-500$ mark and would like a Honda GX and Triplex pump. These are slightly higher price but maybe negotiable on 50-100$?

@MasterMech Is this JD the same as yours? The model on this one is the 020297. I can't find much online about them except for finding parts haha.


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## MasterMech

Nope, those were built by Briggs and Stratton Power believe it or not. They weren't bad units and that one should have even more umph than mine. I'd beat him up on the price some. He's at about 75% of new and it's missing OEM accessories.


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## kur1j

@MasterMech

What is "missing". He said he was missing the "short" wand? Is there a long wand and short that comes with it?


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## MasterMech

Usually they come with a standard wand, nozzles, and a hose. Sounds like he might have a telescoping wand for washing high areas. They're nice but def not going to be what you want for 90% of the work you'll do with it.


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## JDgreen18

I have a Simpson 3100 psi Im not sure of the pump name but I can tell you this get a Honda engine. A pressure washer sits a lot you use it a couple times a year but its not used like a mower, blower etc everytime I go to start It it starts with 1 pull. It's like 8 years old too.


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## 440mag

MasterMech, Col, all contributing, just wanna shout-out a huge, "Thank You!" and THIS IS YET ANOTHER GRRRRREAT TLF THREAD !!!!

Man, what you say about engines outlasting the pumps is soooo true! I have a nearly 20 year old Campbell-Hausfeld run-o-the-mill model with a B&S engine on it which literally "sings" but, on which the 2,000 psi pump has been rebuilt twice.

However; going forward I do not believe I am going to be lucky enough to find anyone to rebui,d the pump, "next time." :-(

And thus, I REALLY APPRECIATE THIS THREAD!!!

(I was in Rural King awhile back, came upon a Stihl pressure washer mixed in with the string trimmers and chain saws and my knees buckled and my vision blurred a moment when I saw the price tag on that sucka! 

No doubt, I'll be coming back to this thread again and again as I anticipate the next time the pump goes tits up on my C-H / B&S (crazy how strong that engine is after I'd say about 90-hours of use - fires right up on first pull of the rope every time and rpms as even as sewing machine!) and I find myself back in the market ... (ugh!)



cnet24 said:


> . . .storage of gas is a concern since it won't be used as frequently as my mower, for example. . . .


Hi, cnet! Those are the same concerns I had about my generator AND my prsr washer (and probably a couple other gas small engines we only run when we "really need" them). Thankfully, the following regimen (which I got into before I had access to non-ethanol gas) continues to keep all our small engines running (knock on wood) flawlessly: first, I keep a "log" of sorts attached to each pc of eqpt with a binder clip and which we use to track hours of use, oil and spark changes, etc. which I change religiously (oil and sparks are cheap! ;-) Secondly, now that we have access to zero ethanol gas that is ALL we run in them. We got turned onto "PRI-G" by some chemical engineers in the military avionics/space flight programs and swore by it when we were forced to use ethanol gas and, even though we use no eth now we still use PRI-G as an additive stabilizer in roughly a dozen engines across the estate and dock, everything but our everyday driver vehicles. Third, I never store small engines with gas in them; siphon the tank and run em dry (only momentarily) with the PRI-G gas. Fourth, and probably the reason everything (again, knock on wood) fires right up is before I store any small engine I remove the spark plug and apply a small amount of lightweight oil into the spark hole and give the starter rope few good pulls (or ignition a single rotation). If it has a rope on it I try to have the cylinder wind up "midway" (in between resistance). Replace the spark plug and sleep well. (Funny, I was stuck in an Emergency Opns center for days during a particularly hellish hurricane and, when when I finally made it home a week later I had male neighbors waiting for me to explain how it was they observed my wife (a grandmother) fire our rope pull genny up on the first pull, while they were all outside at the same time struggling coaxing and cursing their own machines. Even after I walked them through my "back to storage process" I got the standard peanut gallery "ethanol is harmless," etc. from one or two of "those neighbors" (every street has theirs). To each his own, I suppose.

I don't have anything against electric anything's but, I no longer fret about storing gas engines long term, either!

"Pumps" on the other hand, I gots lots to learn about!

Best o' Success!


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## MasterMech

JDgreen18 said:


> I have a Simpson 3100 psi Im not sure of the pump name but I can tell you this get a Honda engine. A pressure washer sits a lot you use it a couple times a year but its not used like a mower, blower etc everytime I go to start It it starts with 1 pull. It's like 8 years old too.


There is nothing about a Honda engine that would make it any less prone to fuel storage issues than any other brand of engine. Good fuel (and general) storage habits = easy starts when you need 'em!

The basics are to add stabilizer immediately when you buy your fuel. Store gas in a -sealed- container in a temperature stabil, and at least semi-dark area. Store equipment with the tanks either completely full (of stabilized gas) or completely dry tanks. If you use an engine occasionally through the year, it's ok to leave fuel in the tank, but take a moment to shut off the fuel at the tank or the line, and drain the carburetor.

The rest is optional (extra oil, spark plugs, fogging procedures, etc.) in my opinion, but I do like to change the oil and store engines on clean oil. Especially something like a lawn tractor that runs a lot during the season and then gets put up for a few months rest. A lot depends on how long you are planning to store an engine. A few months is one thing, several years may dictate a few extra steps.


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## JDgreen18

MasterMech said:


> JDgreen18 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Simpson 3100 psi Im not sure of the pump name but I can tell you this get a Honda engine. A pressure washer sits a lot you use it a couple times a year but its not used like a mower, blower etc everytime I go to start It it starts with 1 pull. It's like 8 years old too.
> 
> 
> 
> There is nothing about a Honda engine that would make it any less prone to fuel storage issues than any other brand of engine. Good fuel (and general) storage habits = easy starts when you need 'em!
> 
> The basics are to add stabilizer immediately when you buy your fuel. Store gas in a -sealed- container in a temperature stabil, and at least semi-dark area. Store equipment with the tanks either completely full (of stabilized gas) or completely dry tanks. If you use an engine occasionally through the year, it's ok to leave fuel in the tank, but take a moment to shut off the fuel at the tank or the line, and drain the carburetor.
> 
> The rest is optional (extra oil, spark plugs, fogging procedures, etc.) in my opinion, but I do like to change the oil and store engines on clean oil. Especially something like a lawn tractor that runs a lot during the season and then gets put up for a few months rest. A lot depends on how long you are planning to store an engine. A few months is one thing, several years may dictate a few extra steps.
Click to expand...

You are correct and make perfect sense. Im not a rookie to engines. I do all my own maintenance and repairs on all my lawn equipment...That being said for some reason I skip this peice of equipment every year lol.... I have never even changed the oil in this machine. No maintenance what so ever actually. I even leave the gas from the year before....and always 1 pull and it starts.
In my opinion the ethanol in the gas is the real isssue with smaller engines. It eats away at the seals in the carbs.


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## kur1j

@MasterMech I've never been fond of Stabil. I feel it fouls plugs up. Had a jetski that I would winterize each year. It was like clockwork, the very next year about 1 tank of fuel in, the plugs would foul and I would be missing on one or more cylinders. We aren't talking about an abundance of hours either each year (maybe 30-90 hours over the summer). This happened 2 years in a row. I stopped putting stabil and every year after that would have no problem. Had it for a total of 7 years. The last 5 years I had it I never replaced the spark plugs again.


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## MasterMech

kur1j said:


> @MasterMech I've never been fond of Stabil. I feel it fouls plugs up. Had a jetski that I would winterize each year. It was like clockwork, the very next year about 1 tank of fuel in, the plugs would foul and I would be missing on one or more cylinders. We aren't talking about an abundance of hours either each year (maybe 30-90 hours over the summer). This happened 2 years in a row. I stopped putting stabil and every year after that would have no problem. Had it for a total of 7 years. The last 5 years I had it I never replaced the spark plugs again.


Stabil or stabilizer additives in general? I use Startron myself, mostly because I have a ton of it still. Everybody's experiences vary and it's impossible to consider all the applicable variables in each case. If you store fuel correctly and not longer than a year, it's quite possible to get by with no additives at all. Heck, how many just buy fuel, put it in the can and not worry about it?


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## rickta24

Rackhouse Mayor said:


> kur1j said:
> 
> 
> 
> @marshtj Is there different types of pumps? At least at a consumer level.
> 
> I was looking at the Simpson. Would love to get the GX Honda motor version but it's 150$ more.
> 
> Simpson Cleaning MSH3125-S 3200 PSI at 2.5 GPM Gas Pressure Washer Powered by HONDA with OEM Technologies Axial Cam Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MXKUCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4EaiBbV9TQB61
> 
> 
> 
> Yes there are. This article may be of use to you: https://pressurewashr.com/pressure-washer-pumps/
> 
> I just pulled the trigger on a pressure washer last weekend. I went with the DeWalt badged Simpson that HD sells. It was on sale, and I couldn't find the equivalent Simpson model locally. Also, Consumer Reports has it listed as their highest rated model - whatever that's worth.
> 
> When looking for a pressure washer I recommend you get one with a Honda motor and Triplex pump. I think the most important thing about pressure washers is reading the manual and storing it properly. After reading the manual to my new one this weekend I realized I haven't stored pressure washers properly in the past.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip on the triplex pump. Seems to be well worth the extra cost. Is this the Simpson version of the DeWalt you went with?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QDYQEK/ref=twister_B00ZKDQKC4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


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## Rackhouse Mayor

rickta24 said:


> Rackhouse Mayor said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kur1j said:
> 
> 
> 
> @marshtj Is there different types of pumps? At least at a consumer level.
> 
> I was looking at the Simpson. Would love to get the GX Honda motor version but it's 150$ more.
> 
> Simpson Cleaning MSH3125-S 3200 PSI at 2.5 GPM Gas Pressure Washer Powered by HONDA with OEM Technologies Axial Cam Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MXKUCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4EaiBbV9TQB61
> 
> 
> 
> Yes there are. This article may be of use to you: https://pressurewashr.com/pressure-washer-pumps/
> 
> I just pulled the trigger on a pressure washer last weekend. I went with the DeWalt badged Simpson that HD sells. It was on sale, and I couldn't find the equivalent Simpson model locally. Also, Consumer Reports has it listed as their highest rated model - whatever that's worth.
> 
> When looking for a pressure washer I recommend you get one with a Honda motor and Triplex pump. I think the most important thing about pressure washers is reading the manual and storing it properly. After reading the manual to my new one this weekend I realized I haven't stored pressure washers properly in the past.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the tip on the triplex pump. Seems to be well worth the extra cost. Is this the Simpson version of the DeWalt you went with?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QDYQEK/ref=twister_B00ZKDQKC4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...

That's it. I couldn't find it locally, and I needed it that weekend, so I paid a little more for the DeWalt badges.


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## 440mag

Rackhouse Mayor said:


> I think the most important thing about pressure washers is reading the manual and storing it properly. After reading the manual to my new one this weekend I realized I haven't stored pressure washers properly in the past.


Thanks, Rockhouse, for the tip on the DeWalt badged washer! :thumbup:

Also, can you share what the manual advised - if there's anything I can do to prolong the life of my washers, I'd really appreciate knowing about it!


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## Rackhouse Mayor

440mag said:


> Rackhouse Mayor said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think the most important thing about pressure washers is reading the manual and storing it properly. After reading the manual to my new one this weekend I realized I haven't stored pressure washers properly in the past.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, Rockhouse, for the tip on the DeWalt badged washer! :thumbup:
> 
> Also, can you share what the manual advised - if there's anything I can do to prolong the life of my washers, I'd really appreciate knowing about it!
Click to expand...

Basically it said there's a switch you flip and it'll shut the carb off from the fuel supply. Then you let it run until the carb is empty and it dies. That way you don't have to drain the tank for storage. Also, they make an oil you can put in the pump during winter months to help. I imagine each pressure washer is different.


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## 440mag

Rackhouse Mayor said:


> Basically it said there's a switch you flip and it'll shut the carb off from the fuel supply. Then you let it run until the carb is empty and it dies. That way you don't have to drain the tank for storage. Also, they make an oil you can put in the pump during winter months to help. I imagine each pressure washer is different.


Thanks, the idea of a "over winter storage" oil (for some pumps) makes total sense and yet, never occurred to me!

Happy Independence Day!


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## craigdt

cnet24 said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MasterMech do you have any thoughts on what pumps to look for? Any recommendations at the price point you listed?
> 
> 
> 
> Pressure washers are pretty simple machines really. There are no real design tricks or advantages, only compromises. My advice for homeowners looking at pressure washers is to start with the task. If this machine will be only be used to clean the patio furniture, a wood fence once a year and other small jobs, then even the small electric ones do a fine job, and I'd prob stay electric vs gas in that case too. Consider hiring out the annual driveway/sidewalk/house cleaning as those jobs take forever and a day with a small washer.
> 
> If you are the DIY type and really enjoy playing with your toys, then you have some more options for sure. I can't stress this enough, money buys performance. I really don't see value in "extras" like on-board detergent tanks, electric start, chrome wheels, etc. I want a good engine, (preferably horizontal crankshaft) and an even better pump.
> 
> You can overcome a couple hundred psi difference with proper nozzle/accessory selection, flow is what matters the most. In short, I'd take a 2500 psi 3.0 gpm unit over 3000 psi 2.5 gpm every time. That's a general rule of thumb of course, because until they start publishing the flow curve for the pumps, you don't really know how one pump would compare to another for any given application.
> 
> I'll pay for long-life flexible hoses, and a quality spray gun. Nozzles and other accessories are easily obtained so I don't pay much attention to that for the initial purchase.
> 
> You CAN buy powerful electric units. They aren't cheap, which just reinforces that the price indicates and emphasizes the quality of the pump, more than the engine. You also are limited by how much power you can draw from a 120v/20a wall receptical via a long extension cord. 10AWG 100' extension cords cost more than a gas engine these days. :shock: But HD electric units are awesome to use and do run somewhat quieter than equivalent gas units.
> 
> I know this question is coming, I have a John Deere branded unit. Cold water only, 3000psi/3.0 gpm. Top-shelf AR pump, had a 7 year warranty on the pump. 9 HP Subaru EX premium engine. It does everything I need and does it fairly quick. Sometimes a little more flow would be handy to get things like my driveway done quicker. Mi-T-M is the OEM for my unit, they make fantastic pressure washers for everything from residential through commercial/municipal (read: sewer!) applications. I do enjoy window shopping on sites like Pressure Washers Direct just to see what's out there and the current price points. But I'm not likely to actually need another pressure washer - ever. So I live vicariously through all y'all. :bandit:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really appreciate this feedback, this is what makes this forum so awesome :thumbup:
> 
> I agree with hiring out the big jobs- I'll probably pick up a Sun Joe or comparable unit for small jobs around the house.
Click to expand...

I came in here to say basically this, but he did it so much better.

General take away regarding pressure washers:
More GPM flow is better
Cheap electric models are barely better than a good sprayer nozzle
Pressure washers are fun


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## MasterMech

Regarding electric washers, here's an old vid I made. Karcher 330 and it has a surprising amount of capability.

https://youtu.be/fRH54Y3s2BY


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## cnet24

For what it is worth, I've had my Ryobi 2000 PSI electric for a few weeks now and it has exceeded my expectations. It's had no issue for any task thus far- its strong enough to remove the dirt and grime off of my back patio, but has enough "finesse" at a lower nozzle for our cars and my reel mower when it needs a quick bath. I would recommend any electric unit after having mine for about three weeks now.


----------



## 440mag

Rackhouse Mayor said:


> Also, they make an oil you can put in the pump during winter months to help.


Came across this on a shelf today while re-stocking up on some filter washers and it reminded me of this earlier discussion. Anyone ever use this stuff before? Snake oil, or ...?


----------



## kur1j

Is it just me or is it difficult to find prices on pressure washers? I can't find much about this model. It has a triplex big GX motor. Seems to be in decent shape but can't find anything online about it other than parts pages. When shopping for a used one, what should I do to check if the unit is in good operation? Just have them hook it up to water, crank it and see what it does?

Edit: apparently facebook links are broken on the site...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1872304939741462


----------



## MasterMech

kur1j said:


> Is it just me or is it difficult to find prices on pressure washers? I can't find much about this model. It has a triplex big GX motor. Seems to be in decent shape but can't find anything online about it other than parts pages. When shopping for a used one, what should I do to check if the unit is in good operation? Just have them hook it up to water, crank it and see what it does?
> 
> Edit: apparently facebook links are broken on the site...
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1872304939741462


Go buy a nozzle set for a 4 gpm washer (4.0 I think, there are charts not unlike the teejet selection charts). Before you go look at it. Try it with the existing nozzles and then pop in a new one to see if it picks up noticeable power. It's very common for nozzles to wear out and the owner to not realize it.

On that particular washer, looks pretty nice. Big AR pump and a Honda GX engine are good, the rest is pretty generic. I'd go look at it. Maybe offer up $300. Run like the wind from any homeowner Excell/devilbiss. Parts are unobtanium and the pumps were J-U-N-K.


----------



## kur1j

MasterMech said:


> kur1j said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it just me or is it difficult to find prices on pressure washers? I can't find much about this model. It has a triplex big GX motor. Seems to be in decent shape but can't find anything online about it other than parts pages. When shopping for a used one, what should I do to check if the unit is in good operation? Just have them hook it up to water, crank it and see what it does?
> 
> Edit: apparently facebook links are broken on the site...
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1872304939741462
> 
> 
> 
> Go buy a nozzle set for a 4 gpm washer (4.0 I think, there are charts not unlike the teejet selection charts). Before you go look at it. Try it with the existing nozzles and then pop in a new one to see if it picks up noticeable power. It's very common for nozzles to wear out and the owner to not realize it.
> 
> On that particular washer, looks pretty nice. Big AR pump and a Honda GX engine are good, the rest is pretty generic. I'd go look at it. Maybe offer up $300. Run like the wind from any homeowner Excell/devilbiss. Parts are unobtanium and the pumps were J-U-N-K.
Click to expand...

I've got a feeling it will be gone before I actually get a 4GPM nozzle set. Hate to have them at that point if I don't get another unit that's rated at 4GPM or would I be able to use them on another unit? Yeah, I wasn't going to look at Excell/devilbiss homeowner versions. For my search, I've just been looking at Honda GX and the triplex pump machines and just about ruling anything else out. He's got it listed for $300 so I'm sure he would take the $300 haha.

If I don't have the 4GPM nozels is there anything I can check to validate it isn't a dud? Like in a car I know you can hide a lot of stuff. Like if it runs and seems to have good pressure for a few minutes if he tests it out, would it seemingly be okay? Not sure if this is something you could fake?


----------



## MasterMech

kur1j said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kur1j said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it just me or is it difficult to find prices on pressure washers? I can't find much about this model. It has a triplex big GX motor. Seems to be in decent shape but can't find anything online about it other than parts pages. When shopping for a used one, what should I do to check if the unit is in good operation? Just have them hook it up to water, crank it and see what it does?
> 
> Edit: apparently facebook links are broken on the site...
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1872304939741462
> 
> 
> 
> Go buy a nozzle set for a 4 gpm washer (4.0 I think, there are charts not unlike the teejet selection charts). Before you go look at it. Try it with the existing nozzles and then pop in a new one to see if it picks up noticeable power. It's very common for nozzles to wear out and the owner to not realize it.
> 
> On that particular washer, looks pretty nice. Big AR pump and a Honda GX engine are good, the rest is pretty generic. I'd go look at it. Maybe offer up $300. Run like the wind from any homeowner Excell/devilbiss. Parts are unobtanium and the pumps were J-U-N-K.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've got a feeling it will be gone before I actually get a 4GPM nozzle set. Hate to have them at that point if I don't get another unit that's rated at 4GPM or would I be able to use them on another unit? Yeah, I wasn't going to look at Excell/devilbiss homeowner versions. For my search, I've just been looking at Honda GX and the triplex pump machines and just about ruling anything else out. He's got it listed for $300 so I'm sure he would take the $300 haha.
> 
> If I don't have the 4GPM nozels is there anything I can check to validate it isn't a dud? Like in a car I know you can hide a lot of stuff. Like if it runs and seems to have good pressure for a few minutes if he tests it out, would it seemingly be okay? Not sure if this is something you could fake?
Click to expand...

Hah! I thought I saw $400 listed in the ad.

You can always go look at it, if it fires up and runs as it should, it's likely ok. The only way you could cover up a worn pump, would be to put an undersized nozzle in it and that's pretty unlikely. Sometimes the nozzle is marked with the size, so if it's still legible, you could check to see if it's proper. New nozzles are usually stock items at a Lowe's/HD/or Tractor Supply near you. Nozzles are flow specific so unfortunately if you end up with a washer with a significantly different flow rating you will need appropriate nozzles. Good thing they are cheap!

Hook up the pressure hose and gun. 
Remove the nozzle verify correct size and wear. (This is why having a new one to compare is helpful)
Hook up the feed hose and turn on the water supply.
Hold trigger on the gun to purge the system of air.
Continue holding the trigger on the gun and start the engine. Advance to full speed and continue holding the trigger for 15-30 seconds after the unit starts.
Release the trigger, the unit should immediately go into relief/recirculation with little complaint from the engine. Minor surging should not be a deal breaker.
Re-install the nozzle, make sure it locks in! :lol: make sure the pressure regulator is cranked up all the way. (Clockwise usually)
Test with the nozzle in for 60-120 seconds.
Repeat with a new nozzle if you have one.
While unit is unloaded (not spraying), idle the engine down, engine should not surge or stall.
Shut it down and either pay the man or run depending upon test results!


----------



## kur1j

@MasterMech 
You mentioned that you have a John Deere 3000 PSI 3GPM washer. I found a 3800 PSI 4GPM John Deere unit with a honda GX engine online for 475$. Said it's been used 3 times for 30 min or so.

I feel it's a decent price but for whatever reason I can't find many reviews on these units. The only thing I was able to find online said that the pumps don't last long? Or loose power a lot. What has your experience been? Other than the different PSI and GPM is there something significantly worse about this unit?


----------



## William

I have a belt drive pressure pro. I suggest a 3K psi and a 3.5 GPM pump. The reason? To be able to run a surface cleaner. Cuts down on you driveway/paver cleaning by 2/3.

https://www.pressure-pro.com/products/cold-water-pressure-washers/eagle-series-gas-v-belt/
It's a good quality machine. I got remote drains for the pump and engine on mine. Just makes less mess.


----------



## 440mag

@William Thanks I'm interested but, all's I see are 3.0 gpm and then 4.0 gpm (but, no 3.5 gpm); and, just curious but, what ballpark $ are they (or, if you don't mind mr asking, what'd you pay for yours? Thanks again.


----------



## MasterMech

440mag said:


> @William Thanks I'm interested but, all's I see are 3.0 gpm and then 4.0 gpm (but, no 3.5 gpm); and, just curious but, what ballpark $ are they (or, if you don't mind mr asking, what'd you pay for yours? Thanks again.


Better sit down :lol: those belt drives are usually top-shelf units with price tags to match!


----------



## MasterMech

kur1j said:


> @MasterMech
> You mentioned that you have a John Deere 3000 PSI 3GPM washer. I found a 3800 PSI 4GPM John Deere unit with a honda GX engine online for 475$. Said it's been used 3 times for 30 min or so.
> 
> I feel it's a decent price but for whatever reason I can't find many reviews on these units. The only thing I was able to find online said that the pumps don't last long? Or loose power a lot. What has your experience been? Other than the different PSI and GPM is there something significantly worse about this unit?


If you can post a picture of it then I can tell you who made it. (Probably) Deere has only used two suppliers for washers in recent years to my knowledge. Mi-T-M and Briggs & Stratton Power. The Briggs units were widely sold at the box stores and are more common than the Mi-T-M units.

I wouldn't worry about the engine at all, the pump is usually where the price/longevity difference lies. The big Briggs units aren't awful at all from a quality standpoint, especially compared to the typical box store unit. But it's not a "professional" grade unit either. It's made for a pro-sumer user that wants the Honda and has a few big pressure washing jobs to do each year.


----------



## William

440mag said:


> @William Thanks I'm interested but, all's I see are 3.0 gpm and then 4.0 gpm (but, no 3.5 gpm); and, just curious but, what ballpark $ are they (or, if you don't mind mr asking, what'd you pay for yours? Thanks again.


I honestly don't recall. I would guess around $1300-ish


----------



## 440mag

Thanks, that helps. (We're budgeting now for when the one we currently use goes tits up


----------



## kur1j

@MasterMech

facebook.com/marketplace/item/2172845829640530/

That is it. He's come down in price from like 700 to now 486. I contacted him a few days ago and it was still available.

For whatever reason, facebook links are dropped and don't display if they are links.


----------



## MasterMech

kur1j said:


> @MasterMech
> 
> facebook.com/marketplace/item/2172845829640530/
> 
> That is it. He's come down in price from like 700 to now 486. I contacted him a few days ago and it was still available.
> 
> For whatever reason, facebook links are dropped and don't display if they are links.


Definitely the Briggs unit. Nothing wrong with them. I'd see if he'd take $400.


----------



## kur1j

@MasterMech okay thanks! How do you know its a Briggs unit?


----------



## MasterMech

kur1j said:


> @MasterMech okay thanks! How do you know its a Briggs unit?


The wheels and frame are different than the Mi-T-M units of similar capacity.


----------



## 440mag

MasterMech said:


> ... I can't stress this enough, money buys performance. ... In short, I'd take a 2500 psi 3.0 gpm unit over 3000 psi 2.5 gpm every time. That's a general rule of thumb ...
> 
> I know this question is coming, I have a John Deere branded unit. Cold water only, 3000psi/3.0 gpm. Top-shelf AR pump, had a 7 year warranty on the pump. 9 HP Subaru EX premium engine. It does everything I need and does it fairly quick. Sometimes a little more flow would be handy to get things like my driveway done quicker. Mi-T-M is the OEM for my unit, they make fantastic pressure washers for everything from residential through commercial/municipal (read: sewer!) applications. I do enjoy window shopping on sites like Pressure Washers Direct just to see what's out there and the current price points. But I'm not likely to actually need another pressure washer - ever. So I live vicariously through all y'all. :bandit:


Howdy, all! I'm a-resurrecting this thread as *I anticipate needing to replace* a too-small pressure washer that doesn't owe us anything (served us well in former small place but, no match for present property) and which is simply no longer up to my level of DIY (lonnnnnngggg driveway, larrrrrge dock, hundreds of feet in gutters, etc., etc. (sigh). *Is a budget of $300-$400 too low to "buy performance?"*

*Anyone know of any solid bang-for-the-buck 3gpm units with bulletproof pumps?* Due to several things coming together to make a perfect storm in my life at present, t is very difficult for me to do much research or window shopping and positively no driving to box stores and looking, etc.

LOL, @MasterMech if you want to live vicariously through a DIY'er in need of something like yours, this is your oppty! :lol:

The last sentence below probably describes me, to a tee (and I guess the paragraph ahead describes what I am a-huntin' ...):



MasterMech said:


> I wouldn't worry about the engine at all, *the pump is usually where the price/longevity difference lies.* The big Briggs units aren't awful at all from a quality standpoint, especially compared to the typical box store unit. But it's not a "professional" grade unit either. It's *made for a pro-sumer user that wants the Honda and has a few big pressure washing jobs to do each year.*


----------



## MasterMech

$3-400 will buy a 3000ish psi, 2.5 gpm Machine with a brand-name engine. That's going to be pretty slow for big jobs like you describe. Something equivalent to my machine is going to be $800-$1000. And you are still going to need/want accessories like a surface cleaner, turbo nozzle, telescoping wand, etc. All of that adds up quick.

With such limited time and budget, I'd get the work you want done quoted. Figure up what your time is worth, then double it  , add in the cost of buying decent gear to DIY, and I think you'll find the pros to be a bargain. Don't forget to consider garage real-estate.

What is your current machine? If it's not something really tiny, it may be perfectly fine for the occasional small-med job. But seriously consider hiring the big jobs out.


----------



## 440mag

@MasterMech Hey, THANKS for the rapid reply back!

Oh, as far as my time, I hope (intend) for things to be back to "normal" sometime this summer!

I guess I am going to use the time I have while our small one is still alive to save up ... (absolutely EVERYTHING about the region we now call home is a blessing compared to where we moved from - lower taxes, smaller gov't, less delusional regulations, wonnnnnderful people, FREEDOM!!!!! etc. HOWEVER, after 5 years here and some really, REALLY expensive le$$ons, I admit what the locals warned me: "_If ya want somethin' done right, ya better roll up yer sleeves and do it yourself!_" Very sad but, very true (separate thread and I digress ...)

I may not make it all the way up to (and I may very well not require) $800-$1,000 but, what would be some examples of good investments (that is, durable pumps! :thumbup: in the $500-$600 range?

Gosh, after you see what I have done with what little we have, perhaps you may even be able to paint me in the direction of some durable pump models in that original $400 range (?) Dunno about that tho... 

T*his little washer is right at about 20 years old and I have > 120 hours on it and had someone rebuild the pump many years ago but, that person is no longer available to me so, when it goes next time, wel, that is reason I am on the hunt for a "beefier" pump, now …:* 












Oh yeah, AND the dock and gangway to same ...



*BY THE WAY - I did that entire 125+yard driveway 2" at a time - BEFORE I KNEW there were such things as surface cleaners. Took 4 days (to clean, another 3 to seal!) and, two summers later,* the difference between our driveway and neighbors who hired "pros" STILL is night and day (above)!


----------



## MasterMech

@440mag. Apologies for the delay. I'm a bit hard up for research time myself. So I'm going to teach a man to fish so to speak.

If you want a better feel for what your $$ will buy, I'd recommend a site like PressureWashersDirect.com. Browse to just gas pressure washers, at the bottom of the page, there should be an option to sort them out by GPM. Pull up the 3 GPM machines and then sort them by price. Repeat for 4 GPM and any other size you want to scope out. If you look at the machines that have minimal "features" or fluff like electric start or bundled accessories, that will give you an idea of how much machine any given dollar amount buys. Armed with even just that little bit of info, you will be a lot better off than just comparing specs, no matter where you buy. The rest I can breeze through pretty quick.

If you think you ever want to run a surface cleaner, 3.0gpm is a bare minimum.
Annovi-Reversi (AR for short) and CAT are well known for excellent pumps. 
The HP/Displacement of the engine can be a telltale for how much power is really there. It's not an absolute, but if two machines boast similar specs, one has a 270cc (8-9hp) engine and the other has a 390cc (12-13hp); one is likely fudging the numbers.


----------



## 440mag

MasterMech, THANK YOU and for heavens sake, NOOOOO "apology" necessary!

I think this is a hectic time of year for many (most?) of us and I was actually apprehensive when I got the email mentioning you'd replied that you'd "found one" as my budget keeps getting torpedoed by, well, "toys" (just splashed the Kawasaki for first time, today! 

Oh man, the info you provide, and combined with your first posts this thread truly do "teach a man to fish" and my gratitude is multiplied by the fact we know very few of the powers washers available in most retail supply houses are simply not up to much more than short, light tasks.

Really appreciate the tip about minimum required for a surface washer (I'm never doing 100+ yards of a 14' wide driveway with a Normal sprayer tip, ever again!)


----------



## Ecks from Tex

I couldn't find this thread when I posted this, but I'll copy here. I got the Stihl RB 600 entry-level commercial pressure washer this year and it has done an amazing job.

I recently purchased this. It is the entry level pressure washer from Stihl's commercial line. After tax price was roughly $1,000 for anyone interested. I have to say, it is an excellent machine. The best I've used. It accounts for over 3 GPM and 3200 PSI. Although the PSI is fairly standard for a high end residential/entry commercial pressure washer, the rate at which it moves water is what really stands out. It is phenomenal.

But the most useful aspect of the pressure washer I have found is it's functuinaly. It is extremely easy to disassemble the wand and put the hose up. Also, it's base sits on oversized pneumatic tires and an extra large roll cage for hand holds. It also has a valve flow regulator and the wand has a reverse pistol grip and side grip for two handed washing.

Overall great machine for anyone looking to take the next step with a pressure washer.


----------



## Lawn Ranger

I started pressure washing this year, and I learned some things that may be helpful to other noobs. I have a Homelite 3100-psi washer I inherited from my dad. I had to replace the hose and ream out the carb because it was kept outdoors and not drained, but it works fine.

1. You will have to use pool chlorine to get your house clean (unless you want to damage the paint with pressure), and bleach eats pumps over time. To make your pump last, get the chlorine out of it after every use and shoot pump protector into it before the end of the day. Takes two minutes. I use 25% pool chlorine with water, plus a big shot of Dawn. Wear white clothes!

2. Your pump will still die before your engine, if everything is cared for well. Cheap machines have pumps that can't be rebuilt because the manufacturers don't sell parts. Pumps can be replaced in 5 minutes. It's very easy, and there are Youtubes that help. Don't pay any attention to pump prices you see on sites like Ereplacement parts. You should be able to get a new pump for maybe $80 on Ebay. Beats paying $400 for a new machine. If you buy a pump before your original pump dies, you won't have to worry about getting stuck in the middle of a job with a dead pressure washer.

3. If you spend a lot more money on a machine, you will get a pump that can be rebuilt cheaply.

4. A 2.5-gpm machine will work great around the house and yard.

5. You can use a high-pressure machine to wash cars without hurting the paint. Just stand back a little. You can also buy add-on devices to reduce the pressure. Around $20. A foam cannon is helpful. You can buy car wash concentrate and add it to your tank.

6. Don't use Sta-bil. It's not very good. Use Biobor EH. Using ethanol-free gas for the last session of the season is also helpful, because ethanol gas, in addition to being a useless vote-buying scam, is poison for engines.

7. If your carb gets clogged, buy a set of carbon steel (not HSS) wire drill bits and use the 0.013" size to ream out your jet. There are Youtubes. It's easy. Also, Chinese carbs which are just as good as OEM are really cheap (like $12), and replacing them is easy. Your OEM carb is probably Chinese, so you are not making a downward move.

8. A long telescoping lance is a big help around the house. It will get you into roof gutters. You also need a 90-degree attachment to make it easier. Lances are very heavy, however.

9. A surface attachment is a must for driveways and so on. It will cut your time by maybe 80% and give a better result.

10. Buy a 50-foot hose.

Some of this advice may be less than optimal. Other bits are 100% gospel. When you run into a problem, get on the web and ask around. Don't try to figure it out yourself.


----------



## 440mag

All good advice to / for me - thanks! (I never thought about looking into availability of replacement pumps (thumbs up!!!!!


----------



## Jconnelly6b

I bought the Simpson MSH3125 earlier this year and paid $425 for it including shipping. I've now used a few times and it's a very nice unit. Reviews said good for homeowner use but not professional.

If you want something that might fit your duty requirement, check out the Simpson PS60843 that's got the professional triplex pump with 4.0 GPM 4,400 PSI and goes for $688.

The most important for me was a good frame and pneumatic tires which was tough to find for the smaller units, that's what led me to Simpson.


----------



## pawprint1125

Hi all-

Newbie here, in the world of pressure washers. I found this post incredibly helpful as I learned a lot (and NEEDED to learn a lot!). I had had a really crappy Husky electric that finally put me out of my misery this weekend. Used it occasionally for cleaning the usual of a house - walkways, siding, BBQ, outdoor furniture - and usually, because of the general crappiness of the machine, I used it sporadically over the years.

Thanks to all who helped give me a crash course.

I found an older machine on Craigslist - a Northstar, with a Honda GX390 engine, and a huge General Pump triplex pump. 4 GPM, and 3200 PSI. A commercial machine used only by a homeowner periodically. Extremely well maintained, tons of accessories (including a huge extension for doing gutters), nice owner - and 150 bucks. I did the tests recommended here (and elsewhere), and the machine passed with flying colors. Took it home, and tried it on an assortment of things. I can't believe how well it worked... Never thought I'd say this, but I am thrilled with my pressure washer.

I like the fact that the pump, if/when I have problems with it, can be torn down and rebuilt. Dozens of video on YouTube about it. It seems like a fun job when I need to do it. But no indication that I will need to do that soon.

What I remain confused about are the power nozzles. A couple were missing. I can't seem to find direct replacements, but General Pump makes a set that looks like it will work. Size seems to be 4.5. Am I missing something in selecting which set? Will most nozzles from other companies, similarly rated, work as well? Any trick in selecting them?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## ionicatoms

Lawn Ranger said:


> To make your pump last, get the chlorine out of it after every use and shoot pump protector into it before the end of the day.


Great tips! Thanks! :thumbup:


----------



## rjw0283

I have an electric Karcher pressure washer I've had for 12 years, I got it from my Dad when he passed away, I have no idea of how long he had it, but it's a great pressure washer that's just as good as any gas one I've used. I'll never buy another gas pressure washer.


----------



## Oneacer

I have the Karcher with the Honda engine... got it for free, but had to put on a new pump.

Works great now for like 15 years, and still going strong ....

I use the Karcher Conditioner when storing it ... protects from any freezing and conditions all the seals, valves and o-rings.


----------



## ShadowGuy

Bringing this thread back from the dead.

I read through this entire thread, and while I know much more than before, I am even more confused about what to get. I was pretty set on picking up a Ryobi Gas PW in the ~$300 range with accessories, but now I think I ought to spend more to get a higher GPM. Can you tell me what I need?

These all would be projects at different times. Trying to find the right balance and not overbuying or underbuyig on capability.


Clean ~1000sqft of concrete driveway
Clean ~400sqft concrete patio
Clean 300ft of brick/block wall
Clean first story windows
Car washing
Cleaning painted wood patio cover
Clean yard equipment
100ft of gutters

Examples: 
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-2...er-with-Surface-Cleaner-RY802925-SC/317654584
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-...sher-with-DEWALT-420cc-Engine-61156/317064642


----------



## Mightyquinn

From my experience it's optimal to have a gas and electric pressure washer. I have a deWalt 3800 psi 4 GPM gas pressure washer that I mainly use to clean the driveway and side walks. I have probably had it 10-15 years now and it still works like a champ every time. I also have a Karcher K1700 Cube that I use to wash cars and clean lawn equipment. I think it's only 1400 psi. Some jobs require high psi while others only require low psi. I don't know of one pressure washer that does both really well. It's all about compromises and what's more important to you.


----------



## 440mag

ShadowGuy said:


> Bringing this thread back from the dead.
> 
> …Can you tell me … ?
> 
> …


Good morning ShadowGuy and Happy Spring!

The "meat on the bone" points I recall from this thread (which is epic, thank you for resurrecting it! :thumbup: ) are:

1. Shop for the pump, not "a prsr washer" and if at all possible a pump which is easily REBUILT or failing that readily replaceable (I've never had a prsr washer engine go dead or anything else for that matter; it's always the pump going goes up that forces me back to shopping for a new prsr washer, AGAIN! :roll:

2. Like a boat or so many other things in the material world, buy the biggest pump you can practically afford (smaller they are = the more difficult to repair or replace in addition to shorter life

The old phrase / saw: "*Buy Once, Cry Once*" may have been coined by someone surrounded by cheaper (sorry, more economical) prsr washers …

Of your examples the DeWalt calls out the triplex plunger loud, proud and clearly in the specs; whereas; you'll notice there is no mention whatsoever (maybe I missed it) of any pump in the Ryobi page …

Of your examples, IMO, clearly the DeWalt is the one to get and which I suspect will "last you" for your projects listed (hesitate to say "outlast" you as I hope you live long and prosper!)

PS Full Disclosure: I own the DeWalt (after going through too many cheaper alternatives)

Best o' Success!

Edit after Mightyquinn's post: I too need a smaller prsr washer for our dock and not only because it's trex decking requires lower psi but also because it is at the bottom of a hill down from the backside of our home (not looking forward to ever trying hauling the DeWalt back up that slope!). But, if I had to choose only one I'd get the DeWalt and then a smaller I.e., electric.


----------



## 440mag

Lawn Ranger said:


> I started pressure washing this year, and I learned some things that may be helpful to other noobs. I have a Homelite 3100-psi washer I inherited from my dad. I had to replace the hose and ream out the carb because it was kept outdoors and not drained, but it works fine.
> 
> 1. You will have to use pool chlorine to get your house clean (unless you want to damage the paint with pressure), and bleach eats pumps over time. To make your pump last, get the chlorine out of it after every use and shoot pump protector into it before the end of the day. Takes two minutes. I use 25% pool chlorine with water, plus a big shot of Dawn. Wear white clothes!
> 
> 2. Your pump will still die before your engine, if everything is cared for well. Cheap machines have pumps that can't be rebuilt because the manufacturers don't sell parts. Pumps can be replaced in 5 minutes. It's very easy, and there are Youtubes that help. Don't pay any attention to pump prices you see on sites like Ereplacement parts. You should be able to get a new pump for maybe $80 on Ebay. Beats paying $400 for a new machine. If you buy a pump before your original pump dies, you won't have to worry about getting stuck in the middle of a job with a dead pressure washer.
> 
> 3. If you spend a lot more money on a machine, you will get a pump that can be rebuilt cheaply.
> 
> 4. A 2.5-gpm machine will work great around the house and yard.
> 
> 5. You can use a high-pressure machine to wash cars without hurting the paint. Just stand back a little. You can also buy add-on devices to reduce the pressure. Around $20. A foam cannon is helpful. You can buy car wash concentrate and add it to your tank.
> 
> 6. Don't use Sta-bil. It's not very good. Use Biobor EH. Using ethanol-free gas for the last session of the season is also helpful, because ethanol gas, in addition to being a useless vote-buying scam, is poison for engines.
> 
> 7. If your carb gets clogged, buy a set of carbon steel (not HSS) wire drill bits and use the 0.013" size to ream out your jet. There are Youtubes. It's easy. Also, Chinese carbs which are just as good as OEM are really cheap (like $12), and replacing them is easy. Your OEM carb is probably Chinese, so you are not making a downward move.
> 
> 8. A long telescoping lance is a big help around the house. It will get you into roof gutters. You also need a 90-degree attachment to make it easier. Lances are very heavy, however.
> 
> 9. A surface attachment is a must for driveways and so on. It will cut your time by maybe 80% and give a better result.
> 
> 10. Buy a 50-foot hose.
> 
> Some of this advice may be less than optimal. Other bits are 100% gospel. When you run into a problem, get on the web and ask around. Don't try to figure it out yourself.


Bump-worthy this time o' year! :thumbup:


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## SWB

I have a 4GPM 3700psi machine that I've used a 20" Northern Tool surface cleaner with for at least 10 years. It did ok but honestly was a bit much for my machine. I finally ordered a 16" that arrived today. I'm anxious to see what it will do vs the old 20".


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## 440mag

SWB said:


> I have a 4GPM 3700psi machine that I've used a 20" Northern Tool surface cleaner with for at least 10 years. It did ok but honestly was a bit much for my machine. I finally ordered a 16" that arrived today. I'm anxious to see what it will do vs the old 20".


Also curious - please post back!


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## T76turbo

Mightyquinn said:


> From my experience it's optimal to have a gas and electric pressure washer. I have a deWalt 3800 psi 4 GPM gas pressure washer that I mainly use to clean the driveway and side walks. I have probably had it 10-15 years now and it still works like a champ every time. I also have a Karcher K1700 Cube that I use to wash cars and clean lawn equipment. I think it's only 1400 psi. Some jobs require high psi while others only require low psi. I don't know of one pressure washer that does both really well. It's all about compromises and what's more important to you.


Agree completely. When washing cars, you want high gallon per minute but lower psi. Like around the 1000psi so you don't damage the paint and trim.

I bought a Kranzle 1122tst. The place I bought it (obsessed garage) packages the washer with a nozzle for washing cars that adjusts the psi down slightly to that 1000'ish psi. You can do this on your own if you look for some of the graphs online that tell you spec on the pump you have (gpm and psi) as well as psi at gun with a given tip orifice size.

The kranzle is expensive but it only runs (electric) when you pull the trigger so no chance of overheating. It also has a built in 50 ft hose reel and is commercial/industrial quality.

Then I have an old craftsman with a new Comet pump for concrete work. You really don't need or want to go over 3000psi with residential concrete. The higher the gpm at that psi the better. Again, you can fine tune that number with tips with different orifice sizes including tips on a surface cleaner.


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## GPO Man

I bought this Honda clone from Harbor Freight and I'm very happy with it. Paid $349 on sale. Looks like the regular price jumped to $429 from $399.
https://www.harborfreight.com/lawn-garden/outdoor-power-tools/pressure-washers/3200-psi-28-gpm-68-hp-223cc-pressure-washer-epa-58028.html


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## SWB

I tried to post a short video but couldn't for some reason. The new 16" unit worked exceptionally well especially compared to the old 20". I didn't realize until now how underpowered my machine was with the other cleaner. This one is easily twice as fast with no streaking. I should have done this years ago.


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## 440mag

Sou-purb!!!!!!!!


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## 440mag

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!​
Heading up the category, "*Old age and treachery will always beat youth and exuberance*," a million internets and endless thanks to Burton Keller on YouTube for guiding me to the crazy simple fix that got my surface cleaner back up and running!!!!!

*How to fix your surface cleaner that is not spinning*: 




HELP!!!!

How do you know if you have a problem or clog or other issue with your pressure washer's pump?

When I hook up and turn on the garden hose to the pump (without any hose connected to the "out" end of the pump) - and simply leave th ecumenical "Off" - the water coming out of the terminal end of the pump is spraying as if under pressure but, nowhere even approaching the near the volume going in …

Background:

I have a DeWalt DXPW3425 3400 psi washer which worked wonderfully well all day Monday with the wand on a 50-yard long, 7' high brick retaining wall. Whew.

Then, yesterday, I attached my DeWalt #80175 18" surface cleaner and from 10am til about 2pm I was rocking through a 100-yard long, 4-yard wide concrete driveway apron when all of a sudden the surface cleaner started bogging down. 

I disassembled, lubed and reassembled the DeWalt #80175 surface cleaner at least half a dozen times and it would work in spurts then bog down, then work again and then big down.

Talk about a project devolving into both an exhausting and frustrating day, I finally threw in the towel (with only about 800-square feet left uncleared, Arghhhh!), got some rest and took a fresh look at everything this morning …

Took the surface cleaner apart and made sure the spindle etc were all well lubricated (NOTE: I did notice the two stainless steel flat washers that sit between the rotating spindle and the brass "hub" innthe surface washer deck are actually sort of concave on one side and noticeably polished on the other and I don't know if I am putting those two washers correctly or not …)

I also removed the two spray jet nozzles and both were as clear as clear can be … so, I am confident there is no clog in any part of the surface cleaner sprayer mechanism …

I have to knock off for today and I guess when I get back at it tomorrow I will hook the wand up and see if that is operating normally, in an attempt to rule out the pump.

Also, I'm not sure how but suppose I will use an air compressor and "needle" attachment to blow air "backwards" through the hoses and wand to make sure they aren't clogged somehow …

IS THERE A WAY TO USE COMPRESSED AIR OR EVEN WATER TO "BACK FLUSH" THE PUMP, to dislodge any possible clog there?

Finally, can anyone tell me from the attached photos what make model pump I have and possibly a link to a best video on how to disassemble and rebuild it?

Oops, where is the best place to buy pump rebuild kits, etc.?

Most of all, THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!!!!!!


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## 440mag

Learning!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IGFSKNBmDgg


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## 440mag

And ….. finis!

Now to obtain parts to conduct a well-deserved Preventative Maintenance (oil changes) on engine, reduction case and pump …!


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## Lawn Noob

I've got a Stihl pressure washer I'm happy with. I use it for cleaning sidewalks, driveways,etc.


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