# creediddy2021 thread



## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

My soil test indicated that I need a homogenous kick before I start the summer months. I am down in macro's.

Estate 13-13-13 contains most of the nutrients of the YM Starter 12-12-12. Yes, YM has 3% iron, but I have already put down Ironite and Milo 2 weeks ago.

https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/1349494-estate-36-lb-13-13-13-garden-fertilizer.html

https://yardmastery.com/collections/fertilizers-granular/products/12-12-12-starter-fertilizer-with-3-iron-and-bio-nite%E2%84%A2

It's half the cost. Should I consider the Estate and save the money? I need the nutrients to balance my NPK. I have a bag of Screamin Green that is ready for early June. Thoughts?


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## AndyS (Jun 13, 2020)

I have used the YM product. I believe it uses AMS and SOP, so it's good quality and the prills are decent.

If you just need to get something down though, I'm sure saving the money will get you very similar results. Frankly, I've yet to find a fertilizer that doesn't work.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

Can't find a label on the Estate product but the YM is AMS & SOP as mentioned above, which is what you'd ideally put down with your higher pH soil. But if you can get that triple 12 for $13/bag on Clearance like the website says it may be worth it. But this isn't an apple/apple comparison though, at least I don't imagine it is.


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## bernstem (Jan 16, 2018)

I can't find the Estate label either. The YM might be a better product, but I don't know if it is better enough for more than twice the price.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

corneliani said:


> Can't find a label on the Estate product but the YM is AMS & SOP as mentioned above, which is what you'd ideally put down with your higher pH soil. But if you can get that triple 12 for $13/bag on Clearance like the website says it may be worth it. But this isn't an apple/apple comparison though, at least I don't imagine it is.


Estate Triple 13 Specifications
36 lb Bag
13% Nitrogen
13% Phosphorous
13% Potassium
1.05% Calcium
4.35% Sulfur
1.75% Iron
.07% Manganese
Size: 36 lb


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Also based on my lawn size I can get at least 2-3 applications throughout the season with the YM Triple 12.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

creediddy2021 said:


> corneliani said:
> 
> 
> > Can't find a label on the Estate product but the YM is AMS & SOP as mentioned above, which is what you'd ideally put down with your higher pH soil. But if you can get that triple 12 for $13/bag on Clearance like the website says it may be worth it. But this isn't an apple/apple comparison though, at least I don't imagine it is.
> ...


it's the FORM of nitrogen & potassium you want look at, not necessarily the %. That'll give you insight in how they release and how 'potent' they are.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

If you have already applied Milorganite this spring, you can hold off on other fertilizer until early fall. The Milorganite gave you P. Here are U of Illinois recommendations on when to fertilize:
https://web.extension.illinois.edu/lawntalk/planting/fertilizer_schedule_for_home_lawns.cfm
The 10-10-10 you already have will give you a good dose of P and K in addition to N. Leaving clippings on the lawn will also help. If you push too much growth going into summer, you could deplete the carbohydrate reserves of the grass. It's better to hold off fertilizer until fall.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Virginiagal said:


> If you have already applied Milorganite this spring, you can hold off on other fertilizer until early fall. The Milorganite gave you P. Here are U of Illinois recommendations on when to fertilize:
> https://web.extension.illinois.edu/lawntalk/planting/fertilizer_schedule_for_home_lawns.cfm
> The 10-10-10 you already have will give you a good dose of P and K in addition to N. Leaving clippings on the lawn will also help. If you push too much growth going into summer, you could deplete the carbohydrate reserves of the grass. It's better to hold off fertilizer until fall.


These are the fertilizers i put down so far this spring:

March: starter fert 18-2-3, April: (2) bags Chicken Poo 2-4-3, (2) bags of Milo, (1) bag of Purely Organic, (2) bags of Ironite. Not sure why the analysis has my macros off.

I bag my clippings to provide a cleaner cut. Since I fertilize I can bag my clippings. Last year I mulched my clippings. This year I should have less thatch.

So far my growth is crazy! I have my grass cut every Wednesday as my grass is nearly 7"-8" tall.

HOC is roughly 4".

My next application is going to Mag-I-Cal Plus Alk. Again Im afraid to put down Triple 12 as my growth will be insane! I think I should have done my soil test about this time. Im thinking the slow release of the Purely Org and Milo weren't taken into account during my samples.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

creediddy2021 said:


> Virginiagal said:
> 
> 
> > If you have already applied Milorganite this spring, you can hold off on other fertilizer until early fall. The Milorganite gave you P. Here are U of Illinois recommendations on when to fertilize:
> ...


These are the fertilizers i put down so far this spring:

March: starter fert 18-2-3, April: (2) bags Chicken Poo 2-4-3, (2) bags of Milo, (1) bag of Purely Organic, (2) bags of Ironite. Not sure why the analysis has my macros off.

I bag my clippings to provide a cleaner cut. Since I fertilize I can bag my clippings. Last year I mulched my clippings.

So far my growth is crazy! I have my grass cut every Wednesday as my grass is nearly 7"-8" tall.

HOC is roughly 4".

My next application is going to Mag-I-Cal Plus Alk. Again Im afraid to put down Triple 12 as my growth will be insane! I think I should have done my soil test about this time. Im thinking the slow release of the Purely Org and Milo weren't taken into account during my samples.

I agree with you on fertilizing. I think I may hold off on a balanced fertilizer until spring. I think I will pushing way too much growth going into summer.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

So if we do the math on your apps so far you've essentially applied 2.5# of nitrogen in these 2 months (!!!). It may be fair to say "sir, step away from that spreader!"  You should be good for the summer at this point. Virginiagal was spot on with this, and her link is a good reference for what normal fertilization schedules should look like. You have to keep in mind that pushing fertilizer, no matter in what form, encourages top growth... but at the expense of the all-around health of the plant. Think of it like steroids .. they can help pump us up to look good on the outside but those testicles... (ok, i'm messing around now but you get my point).

Here's the breakdown as I've calculated it:
18-2-3 @ 3-4#/1000 (rate not specified)= 0.5 - 0.7#N (??)
2-4-3 chicken poo @ 12.5#/1000 = 0.25#N
6-4-0 milorganite @ 16#/1000 = 0.96#N
10-0-2 Purery Organic @ 6.25#/1000 = 0.625#N

For reference I'm in Atlanta and start my season early and have approx 1.5#N down to date. Here's how I went about it:
32-0-10 @ 2#/1000 = 0.64#N (late Feb app, 25% SRN gives me 0.5# of fast-release N, good for 4-6 weeks)
32-0-10 @ 2#/1000 = 0.64#N (early April, again good for 4-6 weeks feeding)
8-1-8 @ 4#/1000 = 0.32#N (early May, can do without this app but I like the product and need to use it so...)
** I saved the last of my 8-1-8 @ 4#/1000 for a 4th of July app, which will be approx 8 weeks from the previous app.
++ overseeding & starter fert in mid-Sept, fert in mid-late Oct & late Nov, and winterize with a shot of fast-release in late Dec, weather permitting.

One last thought... you'll notice that you hardly put down any potassium on your lawn, something that you're deficient in. That's the down side to some of these organics, the give you N & P, with little K. Consider sourcing a bag of SOP to mix into your ferts going forward, or buy that 12-12-12 you started this thread with for the 2nd half of the year. That product should be perfect for that.


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## ksturfguy (Sep 25, 2018)

haha agree with @corneliani step away from the spreader. At this point wait until fall to correct what ever your trying to correct or buy some 0-0-50 K. No more N.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

@corneliani great info! Yes, my lawn is an afro now before my cut tomorrow. I am glad that I bag my lawn clippings. I will guess that it's 8" tall now. So I believe the readings of my soil test didn't take into account the slow release. I can see Purely Organic and Milo creating growth now. As you mentioned I will hold off on the YM Soil Test fertilizer recommendations. It did not take into account the slow release. I will be adding Mag-I-Cal Plus Alk to my lawn by the end of this week to lower my pH slightly. I agree as I will use more potassium. Makes sense...


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

ksturfguy said:


> haha agree with @corneliani step away from the spreader. At this point wait until fall to correct what ever your trying to correct or buy some 0-0-50 K. No more N.


Yes I agree...more potassium is required. Although my phosphorous levels aren't bad, I do not want to add much more phosphorous to my lawn. Any granular potash you recommend?


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

You can use sulfate of potassium (SOP) 0-0-50 to get potassium without nitrogen and phosphorus, You can use that anytime during the growing season as it doesn't push growth. Keep in mind you got a recommendation for only ONE fertilization. You do not know how much phosphorus or potassium you need over the course of a year. Soil test labs would give you that information. For further reading on why you might want to use a lab instead of a kit you buy over the Internet, read these pieces:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=16135
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=26242


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

So true…yes I agree with you. I'm going to add potash for now and correct the N & P in the fall. Great points.


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## ksturfguy (Sep 25, 2018)

Honestly you've probably already corrected your N and P based on what I saw in your soil test thread. Grass doesn't use up a lot of P. If I remember right you weren't that low to begin with. N is just something you will always look to give 3 to 4 LBS of per year. A lot of soil tests don't even give N levels.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Yes I'm going to assume that the slow release has now provided me results of N now. My phosphorus levels are right there. I believe potash is the key elements I will correct. I have Nutrients Plus Clarus Screamin Green ready to go next month. I am not overall concerned about adding N to the lawn. After this rainfall, I am guessing my grass has now reached heights of 10-12" in certain spots since my mowing last Weds.


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

creediddy2021 said:


> ... I am guessing my grass has now reached heights of 10-12" in certain spots since my mowing last Weds.


Gotta see some pics. :nod:


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Lawn Whisperer said:


> creediddy2021 said:
> 
> 
> > ... I am guessing my grass has now reached heights of 10-12" in certain spots since my mowing last Weds.
> ...


I will take some in the morning…👍


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## ksturfguy (Sep 25, 2018)

So you are going to fert again next month? Why?


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Are you aware of the 1/3 rule? You shouldn't cut more than 1/3 off at a time. If you keep your cut at 4", you should cut before it goes over 6".


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

ksturfguy said:


> So you are going to fert again next month? Why?


With my watering schedule, last week/this week has been crazy. I didn't expect the rain to be off and on this week. Not only did I put 1" of water in my lawn last week. It rained a good 1" all last week as well. So that explains that top growth. My grass has not been this tall within the past 30 days.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Virginiagal said:


> Are you aware of the 1/3 rule? You shouldn't cut more than 1/3 off at a time. If you keep your cut at 4", you should cut before it goes over 6".


Aware of 1/3rd. However, with the slow release being active now it caused some top growth. Grass is resilient and will come back regardless if I cut back down to 4". I bag all of my clippings.


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

creediddy2021 said:


> Virginiagal said:
> 
> 
> > Are you aware of the 1/3 rule? You shouldn't cut more than 1/3 off at a time. If you keep your cut at 4", you should cut before it goes over 6".
> ...


What she means is that you should cut more often. If the grass grows to 6" then it's should be mowed back down to 4". At the rate your grass is growing, you should be cutting every other day; 10-12" a week, maybe even cut everyday before it gets to 6".



ksturfguy said:


> So you are going to fert again next month? Why?


Do you still plan on putting down nitrogen next month?


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

Keep in mind that those organics have a 2-3 month release curve that is going to be kicking in just about now... but I have a feeling you just want to "throw'er down" no matter what anyone says. :bandit:


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

corneliani said:


> Keep in mind that those organics have a 2-3 month release curve that is going to be kicking in just about now... but I have a feeling you just want to "throw'er down" no matter what anyone says. :bandit:


Yes you are right as I am beginning to see that.  I see that the Milo and Purely Organic are going to work.


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## Fraust (Apr 4, 2021)

I'm just trying to imagine my neighbor, who also routinely lets his "grass" get to 10"-12" then hacks off half of it, being a member here. It's a strange thought &#129300;&#128518;


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Fraust said:


> I'm just trying to imagine my neighbor, who also routinely lets his "grass" get to 10"-12" then hacks off half of it, being a member here. It's a strange thought 🤔😆


Yes I know...It needed at least two cuts throughout the week. I have a mowing service cut my grass. :lol: They only cut once a week. I wish they offered twice a week.

I prefer the clean edging and professional zero-turn mower look over the consumer-grade cuts. Plus it would take me at least 2 hours just to mow, string trim, and blow. My string trimming skills are somewhat good. I prefer the curb appeal of a mowing service rather than see my neighbors try to maintain their lawn for the sake of them avoiding being fined by our association.

With temps staying in the 80's the next 7 days without watering I can see some lawns going yellow.


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## ksturfguy (Sep 25, 2018)

Your the type of customer mowing companies hate haha


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

ksturfguy said:


> Your the type of customer mowing companies hate haha


It's funny you say that...I normally texted the owner what I want from his two-person crew. I think the 4" HOC is slightly tall. I may go down to 3.25" or so.


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

creediddy2021 said:


> ... I bag my clippings to provide a cleaner cut. Since I fertilize I can bag my clippings.





creediddy2021 said:


> ksturfguy said:
> 
> 
> > Your the type of customer mowing companies hate haha
> ...


Are you paying extra to bag the clippings for every cut?


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Lawn Whisperer said:


> creediddy2021 said:
> 
> 
> > ... I bag my clippings to provide a cleaner cut. Since I fertilize I can bag my clippings.
> ...


Yes only $2 more/cut...  So $32/cut. Most people on this forum think that's a waste of money but for me it's well worth it. Less than $800 for the season.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Especially when you get cuts that are similar to this. The last cut they did yesterday is when it stopped raining about 30 mins before they cut as it wasn't a good cut. However, this was a cut a few weeks ago.


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## Fraust (Apr 4, 2021)

Genuinely not trying to be a jerk at all, but what is it about that cut that you feel is so amazing, or unachievable to the average homeowner??


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Fraust said:


> Genuinely not trying to be a jerk at all, but what is it about that cut that you feel is so amazing, or unachievable to the average homeowner??


Thick and lush and just a straight cut. Nothing fancy. Typically I can tell the difference between professional cut lawns that are mowed and edged over consumer grade lawns. That's the difference to me.


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

creediddy2021 said:


> Fraust said:
> 
> 
> > I'm just trying to imagine my neighbor, who also routinely lets his "grass" get to 10"-12" then hacks off half of it, being a member here. It's a strange thought 🤔😆
> ...


Just my two ✌cents, if you like to throw'r down, you have to be willing to cut'em down too.
It sounds like your lawn looks good for a day or two, then it looks over grown for the rest of the week. I'm not trying to insult you, I'm just trying making an opinion from a different perspective. ✌ ✌ ✌


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Lawn Whisperer said:


> creediddy2021 said:
> 
> 
> > Fraust said:
> ...


Lawns that have regular mowing intervals with growth within spring is a good thing. I haven't heard of anyone that objects to this. The situation I am in is that I keep taller HOC. Thus I'm going to have taller grass week to week. My lawn looks great for 4-5 before a mowing. Never insulted. As long as continue to build curb appeal and motivate my neighbors nothing to be insulted by. That shows that I care.


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## lbb091919 (Apr 26, 2020)

Pretty crazy that some sections are growing 6-8" in a week. That's some serious top growth for the spring.

Maybe I'm just slow, but sometimes it takes me just as long to spread or spray something as it does to mow. You could always skip one of those fert apps and that would allow you the time to mow instead.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

The grass looks generally nice but it also looks floppy. And there is some brown stuff going on near the sidewalk. It looks too thick and with such a tall height, the blades are probably not drying out as they should. I suggest going down to 3 inches for the height and mow it before it gets over 4.5. If that means it needs cutting before the service comes, get out there and cut it. You created the problem with too much fertilization at inappropriate times. Next year do not fertilize until the natural spring flush slows down (probably mid May). Do 1/2 to 1 lb of nitrogen then and after that no more until late summer/early fall. I hope you are putting down fungicide in a preventative fungicide program. Not enough air circulation and also the service could be bringing in fungal spores on their equipment from other yards. Don't water in the afternoon or evening, just the early morning when watering is needed.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Virginiagal said:


> The grass looks generally nice but it also looks floppy. And there is some brown stuff going on near the sidewalk. It looks too thick and with such a tall height, the blades are probably not drying out as they should. I suggest going down to 3 inches for the height and mow it before it gets over 4.5. If that means it needs cutting before the service comes, get out there and cut it. You created the problem with too much fertilization at inappropriate times. Next year do not fertilize until the natural spring flush slows down (probably mid May). Do 1/2 to 1 lb of nitrogen then and after that no more until late summer/early fall. I hope you are putting down fungicide in a preventative fungicide program. Not enough air circulation and also the service could be bringing in fungal spores on their equipment from other yards. Don't water in the afternoon or evening, just the early morning when watering is needed.


Great point on fertilization. I also agree on HOC. I will go to 3". What does your lawn look like now? Pics? The next thing I will be doing is lowering my pH, throwing GrubEx down, and potassium. Those are my goals within the next week.


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## Lawn Noob (Jul 26, 2020)

creediddy2021 said:


> Especially when you get cuts that are similar to this. The last cut they did yesterday is when it stopped raining about 30 mins before they cut as it wasn't a good cut. However, this was a cut a few weeks ago.


That's a pretty irregular looking cut.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Lawn Noob said:


> creediddy2021 said:
> 
> 
> > Especially when you get cuts that are similar to this. The last cut they did yesterday is when it stopped raining about 30 mins before they cut as it wasn't a good cut. However, this was a cut a few weeks ago.
> ...


Hey Lawn let me check out recent pics of your lawn to get a better idea of what my lawn should look like. Open to suggestions.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

My lawn now

The spots are sunshine.


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## ksturfguy (Sep 25, 2018)

Couple recent pics of mine.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

You take guidance from a marketing tool that has little or NO practical use as a soil test. You discount every bit of advice offered. You arrived at the forum misinformed and clearly you insist on remaining uninformed. Now the passive/aggressive "show me your lawn." What's the purpose of your posts? If it's affirmation of your practices, I doubt you'll find that here. Try YardMastery.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

Not to gang up but, that comment from Ridgerunner, who goes above and beyond sharing information with everyone on this forum... there's nothing more to add. We all come here to learn and share our experiences and, while there's more than one way to get things done, there are BMPs that are standard building blocks across the board. I'm all for pushing the limits but not sure pushing so much growth in the spring, depleting any/all carbohydrate reserves ahead of summer stress season & causing leaf/cell elongation at the expense of the root system, is anything other than an invitation for disaster. But maybe you can prove it can be done, and if so I'd love to see progress pics. Feel free to keep this thread updated but know that you're going against commonly accepted practices.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

@Virginiagal and @ksturfguy they look great! Thanks for sharing!


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## lbb091919 (Apr 26, 2020)

creediddy2021 said:


> @Virginiagal and @ksturfguy they look great! Thanks for sharing!


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

I think creediddy is sincerely interested in his grass. Not sure what my grass has to do with the topic, but I'm happy to post a picture. I cut Monday at 2.5 inches, put down my first preventative fungicide and watered Tuesday, then spotsprayed WeedBGon CCO after the grass dried. Back to creediddy's grass: it looks good now but I fear his enthusiasm in putting fertilizer down may harm the grass this summer. We're just trying to help each other. What anyone does is up to him. Everyone should do his own research and make his own decisions


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Virginiagal said:


> I think creediddy is sincerely interested in his grass. Not sure what my grass has to do with the topic, but I'm happy to post a picture. I cut Monday at 2.5 inches, put down my first preventative fungicide and watered Tuesday, then spotsprayed WeedBGon CCO after the grass dried. Back to creediddy's grass: it looks good now but I fear his enthusiasm in putting fertilizer down may harm the grass this summer. We're just trying to help each other. What anyone does is up to him. Everyone should do his own research and make his own decisions


Thanks @Virginiagal! I am not putting any fertilizer down this month besides JG Mag-I-Cal Alk and GrubEx. I am looking to correct potassium as my priority and lower pH (will take awhile). You made the great suggestion as you deserve all the credit. My next NPK feeding won't be until mid June-July. I already have a bag of Screamin Green as I am holding off until later in June. So far grass is thick and green. No need to mess up a good thing. I will continue my scheduled water intervals. As I won't water until next week. My city watering schedule allows me to water on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays I have met my 1" watering for the week.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

It is still a bad idea to fertilize in June/July. Cool season grass just does not do photosynthesis well in the summer. Photorespiration occurs and the plant requires energy from its reserves (which in your case have been depleted) instead of making energy. Let it rest.


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## ksturfguy (Sep 25, 2018)

Yep wait until late Aug or early Sept for that Screaming Green


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

I agree with the both of you, thanks for the advice.


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## Lawn Noob (Jul 26, 2020)

creediddy2021 said:


> Lawn Noob said:
> 
> 
> > creediddy2021 said:
> ...




Full disclosure; I've been accused here of fertilizing too much too. That said, my yard looks better than the vast majority of my neighbors even if it's barely an also-ran here on the forum. This pic is from today. A bit of heat stress is kicking in here and there.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Lawn Noob said:


> creediddy2021 said:
> 
> 
> > Lawn Noob said:
> ...


Yes @Lawn Noob your grass seems to be green and healthy. Keep up the good work.


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## CenlaLowell (Apr 21, 2017)

Go to your local co op or feed store and they will smash both of those products for a much cheaper cost.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

CenlaLowell said:


> Go to your local co op or feed store and they will smash both of those products for a much cheaper cost.


I believe rather than go with a balanced fertilizer I am going to focus on more potassium this go round. Wouldn't that be a lot of work to crush ferts together?


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## CenlaLowell (Apr 21, 2017)

creediddy2021 said:


> CenlaLowell said:
> 
> 
> > Go to your local co op or feed store and they will smash both of those products for a much cheaper cost.
> ...


Never put ferts together if you have to make more than one application than do that.


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## lbb091919 (Apr 26, 2020)

creediddy2021 said:


> I believe rather than go with a balanced fertilizer I am going to focus on more potassium this go round. Wouldn't that be a lot of work to crush ferts together?


I dont think he means literally crush the ferts together. I think what he's saying is you can get your NPK products, whatever they may be, from a local co op in much larger quantities and far cheaper than anything YM is going to sell you.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

lbb091919 said:


> creediddy2021 said:
> 
> 
> > I believe rather than go with a balanced fertilizer I am going to focus on more potassium this go round. Wouldn't that be a lot of work to crush ferts together?
> ...


Got it! 😉. Thanks


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Just purchased YM 0-0-48 SOP and 16-0-0 DD. Excited on what these will do when I throw it down. That 10% off is a great deal. I can get at least 3-4 applications this season. This should help correct my N and K deficiencies throughout this season while correcting my micro's.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

I am in the process of adding these fertilizers, fungicide, and insecticide. However, I am looking to get a deep watering in, so far I have about .75" so far this week:

1. 0-0-48 YM SOP
2. Scotts Disease Ex
3. Scotts GrubEx
4. YM Double Dark 16-0-0
5. Mag-i-cal Plus Alk (another application)

Can I add these in one setting all at once? The last application was 1lbs of N of Milo and Purely Organic in early May. Those are the only fertilizers I have used besides my starter fertilizer since early April.

My lawn is looking stressed now. We have had consistent temps all last week with 75+ degrees and now 85+ degrees with no rain in sight until next Weds.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

No, no, no! No more nitrogen until fall. So hold off on your 16-0-0.

Read this about your Mag-I-cal plus Alk
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=25423

Do you have grubs? If there aren't 10 or more in a square foot patch of turf, no need to treat.

Do the SOP and Scott's Disease Ex, water in well. Reevaluate the GrubEx and Mag-I-cal. Definitely do not do the 16-0-0.


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## ksturfguy (Sep 25, 2018)

Virginiagal said:


> No, no, no! No more nitrogen until fall. So hold off on your 16-0-0.


 :lol:


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

I looked up your soil test. You are already high in calcium and planning to add even more. Your soil test is one of those from a site selling products and Mag-I-cal is a product they're selling. I would not trust their recommendation. Here is an article on gypsum, which is a main ingredient in Mag-I-cal Plus Alk.:
https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/gypsum.pdf


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Virginiagal said:


> I looked up your soil test. You are already high in calcium and planning to add even more. Your soil test is one of those from a site selling products and Mag-I-cal is a product they're selling. I would not trust their recommendation. Here is an article on gypsum, which is a main ingredient in Mag-I-cal Plus Alk.:
> https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/gypsum.pdf


Thanks Virginia as your advice is great! The temps are nearly 90 degrees for the next 4-5 days with no rain in sight until next Weds. So I will be starting with the potassium throw down and water heavy. Right now lawn is going dormant as 75% of the neighbors lawns are starting to yellow.


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

As always Virginiagal's recommendations are on point.

Other things to consider is mulching, the grass clippings on top of the of the grass leaves will provide some type of canopy (shade) during the heat. I know it might be unsightly, but it's something to consider during the summer.

Additionally, top growth on your lawn should've (hopefully) slowed down by now. Consider the time of day mowing your lawn, late morning (after morning dew have dried, but before the mid-day heat) is the best, late afternoon (giving enough time for the lawn to heal before nightfall) is a second option. Avoid mowing in the mid-day or possibly even delaying a mow for a few days if it's too hot and the lawn is heat stressed.

Recently I've read/watched some RGdSlpj7YS0][/MEDIA] watering recommendations  called "syringing", it's when you water your lawn for a few minutes in the hottest part of the day to cool it off a few degrees.

Below is a pic of my lawn, which I just took today to share. I too have been dealing with the dry weather here in the east coast. I'm still working on getting my soil ph/nutrients corrected, improve soil absorption, and dealing with weeds. Please don't mind the tree mulching.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Looks incredible LW! Nice work and beautiful home! Yes I believe leaving mulch clippings in the yard would be very ideal. However, between my weekly mowing services, the grass was too tall for mulching. Yes the grass is pretty much at slower growth at this point and some areas remain dormant. Watering schedule I have set is about 1.5" water per week. Because of the lack of rain within the last 2 weeks many of the lawns are going dormant. I am familiar with syringing although I believe it makes the most sense to water early morning roughly 5:45AM-6:00AM. I usually do about 30 minutes. My lawn is looking stressed as I didn't water within the past two weeks b/c of my top growth with the slow release of Milo+Purely Organic. If I kept my watering schedule I believe my grass would be fine. Where do you keep your HOC? At least nearly around 5:00pm my entire front lawn is covered as my house faces the east as it blocks most of the sun.

How much do you water per week? What is your HOC? Looks like you have a 90% TTTF lawn and 10% KBG. I personally would like to start all over by sodding with Black Beauty Fescue. Best time for sodding is early spring and fall.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

I'm going to pick up a Snow Joe/Green Works dethatcher before I throw down 0-0-48 or anything else. I am sure that I have a pretty thick thatch layer. I will try to buy one and get this done tomorrow.


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## ksturfguy (Sep 25, 2018)

I'm not sure dethatching your lawn when it's stressed is the best option. Also if you most have a fescue lawn then it's rarely needed.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

ksturfguy said:


> I'm not sure dethatching your lawn when it's stressed is the best option. Also if you most have a fescue lawn then it's rarely needed.


Shot of the backyard. I believe I watered at least 2" so far throughout the week. If not it would go dormant. Some areas I see have heavier thatch build up.


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## kdn (Aug 26, 2020)

I think we may need to setup an intervention for you @creediddy2021, possibly a few sessions at fertilizers anonymous. :lol:


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

How's your front yard holding up @creediddy2021, did the temps come down any since last month? We had some brutal 90-degree weeks here in ATL and finally got some rainy cooler weather, enough to stave off dormancy. For now. You?


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

corneliani said:


> How's your front yard holding up @creediddy2021, did the temps come down any since last month? We had some brutal 90-degree weeks here in ATL and finally got some rainy cooler weather, enough to stave off dormancy. For now. You?


Thanks corneliani for reaching out. Yes you aren't kidding in terms of temps!

Yes, temps have come down from high 80's/low 90's to upper 70's/low 80's. Thank goodness!

I have signs of heat stress in sections of my lawn, but the color is still there. I dethatched the entire parking strip area as a section went completely dormant. So I used the Sun Joe dethatcher...I then composted, overseeded Sun/Shade Mix, used 0-0-48 SOP, and used Mag-I-Cal Alk around that section. I couldn't believe how much thatch build-up was present in just that section. I can't wait to dethatch my entire lawn early fall. We should get at least 36-48 hours of constant rainfall within the next 4 days. This should help eliminate the dormancy period that we are in. I will try to add some pictures tomorrow.

Overall grass growth is very good. I need to mow at least once a week. I look around at my neighbors' yards as their lawns are still dormant and they haven't cut their lawns for about 2 weeks. Watering cycle is about 1.5" per week. A combination of the 0-0-48 SOP and watering has saved my lawn. I have not fertilized since early May.

How is your lawn holding up?


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

So far I've braved that hot spell pretty well... I have one somewhat-shaded irrigation zone that I literally just used for the first time this season a couple weeks ago! I was surprised to see that. The full-sun areas wouldn't make it without the irrigation though, but even then I'm a cheap SOB and don't let the "smart controller" run amok. I like to see a bit of stress before I let it run a cycle again.

Did I read that right, you overseeded in June?? You my friend are a trailblazer :lol: Curious how that new grass will hold up over the next few months. Worst case you need to do so again come Sept.

Here's my yard after a mow yesterday. The real test is yet to come! All we can do is buckle down and enjoy the ride at this point though.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

That looks amazing corneliani. Nice job and looks super dark green! Right now is a pic from inside my house, but you can see that the parking strip is starting to come back. The pic comes out as a lighter green due to the lighting conditions. It is much darker in person.

I expect it to green back up within the next 7-10 days based on the amount rain we are going to receive these next 4-5 days. How much iron have you put on the lawn? Do you use granular or liquid?

Temps are high 70's in which is a perfect time to put down some iron. Although I will need to put down the fungicide as we are possibly getting 7-8 days of rain with minimal sunlight throughout the day.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

Looking good bro!

That was a cloudy moment when my picture was taken.. it's a brighter green when the sum is out. But it is the greenest of all the lawns that surround me, probably due to my religious spraying of FAS and micros. It's how I get out my desire to be out on the lawn... find something harmless to spray! :lol:


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Thanks corneliani! You're lawn looks great as well! Keep up the solid work!

I bet it does look incredibly green in person. I see that you are using FAS. Is the water soluable better than granular for you?

Last year I used Ironite and I must say that my lawn was an "evergreen/dark green" last year. I threw down Ironite down early spring this and the results were not good. It didn't do anything. This was before I got my soil test as it showed I lacked in defencies in NPK and micros. Now that I am in process of correcting the pH (slightly high) with gypsum, put down SOP for potassium, and now about to put down some nitrogen with iron, I am sure that my levels will be corrected (hopefully closer to optimum) by end of summer. Again I will re-test in early fall just to see where my levels are at.


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

You're lawn is looking good! :thumbup:



creediddy2021 said:


> How much do you water per week? What is your HOC? Looks like you have a 90% TTTF lawn and 10% KBG. I personally would like to start all over by sodding with Black Beauty Fescue. Best time for sodding is early spring and fall.


I water 3 times a week, HOC is 3.25. I've heard great things with BB tall fescue, I think a lot of sod farms in my area uses it. I'm what cultivar they use, but my local nursery sells them with Toltec, Golconda, and Tonto.



A few weeks ago I sprayed some Hrydretain in between rain showers. But I'm still dealing with local dry spots (LDS). I used a hose end sprayer filled it with baby shampoo, then watered it in.

Recovering from local dry spot (park strip)


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

Wow LW! Great looking turf! So you're secret is JG seed. Maybe I will switch the seed to TTTF this fall. Yes JG seed I hear is top notch. Thanks for your info!


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## Lawn Whisperer (Feb 15, 2021)

I actually overseeded my sod with GCI TTTF last fall. I'll probably do a reno in the future once my PH is up and once I figure out what to do with all dry spots (rocks, debris, compaction) from a new construction.

I did throw down some kelp, humic, and carbon in the front and the side lawns. There seems to be a slight improvement compared to the backyard.


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## creediddy2021 (Mar 27, 2021)

That sounds good LW! I believe we have suffered through tremendous drought this spring. I am so glad that we have been given close to 4" over the last several days near the Chicago area. This has helped with all the heat stress we've received over the last several weeks. I'm looking to put down some iron to give it possible a darker blue green.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

That post earlier on your iron app and how it doesn't get you the same pop as the first time ... that just revealed to you that your deficiency has been met with that Ironite application, and/or your soil chemistry has rendered soil-applied iron unavailable. If you don't see any color response in this next app you may want to switch methods of application. Or consider other deficiencies (like your potassium) that may bump things along. But in the end yiur turf will have reached its maximum color and any additives will be short-lived. Nitrogen, sulfur, iron, & manganese will be your big color inputs.


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