# Soil test report



## Pistol58 (Apr 1, 2021)

I know this gets asked a TON, but need some help deciphering the report I just got back today.

One is from front lawn where I have St Augustine

The second is from the back yard where I just had common bermuda hydro seeded.

For the back, my plan is to start spoon feeding urea in the next few weeks or so.

Not really sure what to get, or how to really even apply all the other recommended items.

Any help is greatly appreciated!


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## Pistol58 (Apr 1, 2021)

If it helps, here are the instructions that came along with it.

I know N needs to be applied periodically, but for the rest of it, is it apply their recommended amounts now and have it tested again later? Does most of these dissolve or "go away" over a period of time?

Soil Report terminology

The results, which is the amount of each nutrient we found in your soil.

Fertilizer recommendation: The way our reports are set up is that the fertilizer recommendation to the right of the results is the current need. The current need will include the first nitrogen application and all the phosphorus, potassium and other nutrients you may need.

Then, if needed, addition nitrogen recommendation at the bottom is for future applications of nitrogen. This is to be applied in four to six weeks and repeated as long as you need continued growth. In other words, if you are not growing anything in your garden there will not be a need for additional nitrogen. Or for hay crops the additional nitrogen is to be applied for each hay cutting or grazing.

All our fertilizer recommendations are in pounds of actual nutrient. So, when we call for one pound of nitrogen this is not one pound of fertilizer. The fertilizer you apply will contain a certain percent of nitrogen, usually 20 or 30 percent. Based on this percent you will need to calculate how much fertilizer you need. If you know what sources are available, you can use our fertilizer calculator on our website: http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/webpages/calculator.html

CL value is the critical limit for the indicated crop grown. The critical limit is the minimum value for that crop. If the reported value is lower than the critical limit, application of additional nutrient will be recommended under the fertilizer recommended section of the report. The critical limit is a minimum value for the nutrient; it is not a target level and says nothing about nutrient levels above the critical limit.

Soil pH is on a scale of 0 to 14, with values less than seven being acidic, above seven being alkaline and seven being neutral. Typical soil values range from 5.5 to 8.3. If the soil pH is below the indicated critical limit, an application of limestone will be recommended. Refer to: http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/publications/SCS-2001-06.pdf

Conductivity is a measure of total soluble salts. Typical values will be less than 1000 umhos/cm. Levels approaching and above 2000 umhos/cm may adversely affect plant growth. Low conductivity is desirable, so no critical limit is set. Refer to: http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/publications/E-60.pdf

Nitrate-N indicates the amount of available nitrogen in the soil. Since nitrogen will usually be applied multiple times in a given season, there is no critical limit set for this value. Nitrogen values are often low, and fertilizer recommendations for nitrogen are common.

Phosphorus - This element is often thought of as important for root development and/or flower development. In truth phosphorus is used throughout the plant, in cell wall structure and plays an important role in photosynthesis. Excessive phosphorus may contribute to the environmental problem of nutrient runoff into waterways. Excessive phosphorus has also been shown to induce iron decencies in some plants, refer to: http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/publications/E-465.pdf

Potassium - This element is used to facilitate enzyme transformations and water usage in plants. Available potassium levels may be well above the critical limit without any concern, especially in clay soils.

Calcium - This element is used for plant structure and nutrient movement. Available calcium levels may be well above the critical limit without any concern, especially in calcareous soils.

Magnesium - This element is important in photosynthesis in addition to other functions in the plant. Available magnesium levels may be well above the critical limit without any concern, especially in clay soils.

Sulfur - This element is used throughout the plant in chemical and enzyme reactions. Available sulfur levels may be well above the critical limit without any concern.

Sodium - Low sodium is desirable, so no critical limit is set for this element. Sodium in the plant serves many of the same functions as potassium, however excessive sodium in soils will inhibit water uptake by plants. Refer to: http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/publications/E-60.pdf

Micronutrients - Zinc, Iron, Copper and Manganese -These elements have important roles in photosynthesis and enzyme reactions. Micronutrients are required by plants; however excessive levels of copper or zinc can inhibit plant growth.

Boron - This element is required for germination and maturity of plants; however excessive levels of boron can inhibit plant growth.

Limestone Requirement - Applications of limestone will be recommended to raise the soil pH to a level above the indicated critical limit.

Other Soil tests:

Texture - Gives the percent sand, silt and clay of your soil. This will also give a textural class name based on the USDA soil texture triangle.

Organic Matter -Will measure the percent organic carbon in the soil and give a percent organic matter level of the soil. Organic matter helps with water and nutrient holding capacity of the soil.

Detailed Salinity Test - Will include a deferent set of values based on a saturated paste water extract. pH, conductivity, sodium, potassium, calcium, and magnesium. Along with calculated values:

SAR - Sodium Adsorption Ratio

SSP - Sodium Saturation Percentage

This test is used to evaluate sodium salts and how much it will dominate the soil chemistry. Soil SAR values of less than 2.0 should not have any sodium issues.

Alternate fertilizer recommendations: You can view our entire crop list and obtain new recommendations from fertilizer calculator section of our website: http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/recscalc/recscalc.htm


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

You need to do two applications of a balanced fertilizer, like 10-10-10, and that will take care of the phosphorus and potassium recommendations. It will also take care of two monthly nitrogen applications. For 10-10-10 you would apply 10 lb of product for every 1000 sq ft. once in a month. If you want to break it up into two half applications a month, that's ok. A half application would be 5 lb per 1000 sq ft. (I mention this only because you said you wanted to do spoonfeeding).

For the magnesium in the back yard you can apply 2.5 lb of epsom salt per 1000 sq ft. That will give you .25 lb of magnesium and .3 lb of sulfur.

For the sulfur you can do one application of ammonium sulfate which will take care of all the sulfur recommended as well as giving you a nitrogen application. It's possible that a balanced fertilizer might have sulfur depending on the kind of nitrogen in it, Read the label. If it does, then you wouldn't need ammonium sulfate.

So for three months of fertilizing, you'd do two of balanced fertilizer, one of ammonium sulfate. The epsom salts can be done anytime and it's just one application. I assume you know appropriate times to fertilize and how much fertilizer per year to apply for your kinds of grass. You can use the urea for any additional fertilization.

There's no need to test again this year. The recommendations will supply the level in the soil that studies have shown are beneficial. The grass will use up some of it, some of it may leach, some may run off, some of it will remain. If you leave clippings on the grass, they will help fertilize.


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## GAbermuda (9 mo ago)

I'll be asking this same question soon. I did 4 tests (13 days ago, still waiting). I just regraded my yard and had 30 dump trucks at 18 yds a truck of fill dirt (georgia clay) to regrade and reshape my yard. I'm scared at what the results will be cause that is what I tested lol. I'll be laying sod and will put down about 1.5 inches of topsoil everywhere. Good topsoil, landscape mix with lots of organics. I have 16 40# bags of Mirimichi green carbonizPN stacked in the garage that will go into the topsoil before laying the sod. I'm gonna need a crapload of lime and fert. It's been about 6 weeks since the regarding and I barely have any weeds. The fill dirt is organically dead


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## Pistol58 (Apr 1, 2021)

Virginiagal said:


> You need to do two applications of a balanced fertilizer, like 10-10-10, and that will take care of the phosphorus and potassium recommendations. It will also take care of two monthly nitrogen applications. For 10-10-10 you would apply 10 lb of product for every 1000 sq ft. once in a month. If you want to break it up into two half applications a month, that's ok. A half application would be 5 lb per 1000 sq ft. (I mention this only because you said you wanted to do spoonfeeding).
> 
> For the magnesium in the back yard you can apply 2.5 lb of epsom salt per 1000 sq ft. That will give you .25 lb of magnesium and .3 lb of sulfur.
> 
> ...


This is once again why I love this place and its helped me tremendously with my yard. Really appreciate you taking the time out to break this down for me in terms I can understand!

Cheers!


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