# Toro Greensmaster & Greensmaster Flex Resources



## Ware

I know several of us here run *Toro Greensmaster* reel mowers. This post is a resource to help you locate relevant manuals and documentation for your Toro greensmower.

Go here and enter your mower's model number (found on the serial number plate attached to the frame). The search result should list the serial number ranges for that particular model number. Make the appropriate selection to access things like the PDF *Operator's Manual* and *Parts Catalog* for your particular mower.

Go here to download the *Factory Service Manual* for your mower. This detailed manual will provide basically everything you need to know about taking care of your Greensmaster.

Current production Greensmasters have Subaru engines, but most that are currently on the secondary market are equipped with the *Kawasaki FE120 Engine* . The Service Manual for the Kawasaki engine can be found here (or several other places online with a quick Google search). Most common replacement parts for the Kawasaki engine are readily available from online parts warehouses like Jack's Small Engines.

If you are just looking for general *Greensmaster Specifications* (like HOC range, clip rate, etc.), you can find those here:
Greensmaster 800/1000/1600 Spec Sheet
Greensmaster Flex Spec Sheet​
If you are looking for part numbers for *Greensmaster Accessories* (like bedknife, reel and roller options), you can find those here:
Greensmaster 1000 Accessories​
Go here to learn more about increasing the HOC range of a Greensmaster Flex.

For common *aftermarket replacement parts and accessories*, I would suggest R&R Products. They make it pretty easy to find parts by selecting the make/model of your mower, then viewing the various parts schematics.

For *uncommon replacement parts and accessories*, you will need to contact the Toro Golf Equipment dealer that services your region. Note that Toro dealers who sell residential/commercial mowers do not have access to parts for Toro greensmowers and other "golfcourse equipment".

GSA Price List for some Toro parts - courtesy of @FedDawg555


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## dfw_pilot

Do you have a Toro greens mower and have a question about working on it? Do you have something to share? Ask or share here.​


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## dfw_pilot

I wanted the transport axles off my Toro GM1000 so I could get closer to objects.










This is a spare GM1000 that I have and I had so much trouble getting them off the first one, I dreaded doing it again on this one. It turns out, I was fortunate this time. They came off without much trouble.

Toro puts thread locker on the axles to keep them in very tight. The best way I've found to remove them when they have thread locker applied, is to heat up the axle with a blow torch for three minutes. This gets it hot enough to loosen the thread locker and allow it to break free. My first GM1000 required 3-4 minutes of heat from a Berzomatic, locking the inner axle with a 1 inch crescent, and then hopping on the crescent on the transport axle. It was a nightmare up until that point, but the heat made it work nicely.

Today with this one, I put the 1 inch crescent on the inner axle, put another crescent on the transport axle, stood on it, and: _*pop!*_

If you want to take yours off, first try the easy two-crescent method. If that doesn't work, buy a torch, take your belts off the pulley's and heat it up.


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## dfw_pilot

It seems like every Spring, my Toro mowers run really rough, or worse, SURges ALL the TIme as IT strUGLES for FUel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3t7IR8OokA​
There are a few things that will prevent and solve this problem. The first is to not get a clogged carb in the first place. Always use fuel stabilizers like Sta-Bil or SeaFoam to prevent the fuel from gumming things up. Always drain the fuel at the end of the season. Toro makes this easy with a set screw on the bottom of the carb that will drain fuel completely out of the tank and carb. A little Sta-bil in the tank and carb after it is empty never hurts either.

Places like Jack's Small Engines will have all the parts you need to replace fuel line filters, carb gaskets, and lots of other parts. Just check your engine model number and use it to look up the right parts for your specific engine.

Finally, the surging may still occur, as it did to me, even after new filters and draining the old fuel last fall. It takes just a few seconds to fix if your wife (or you - not judging) has a small sewing needle. The trouble lies with my favorite part, the Jet Pilot, pictured here:



and:



Use a flat head to unscrew it, and clean it very well in gasoline or carb cleaner. Take the needle and clear out the tiny hole in the _bottom_ of the Jet Pilot. Toro made that hole way too small and it clogs easily. If you can put your lips on it and blow air out of it, it should be clean enough. That has solved a lot of trouble I've had with my GM1000s.


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## dfw_pilot

Recommended reading for Toro (and most) reel owners:

Reel Mower Basics

Reel Mower Terminology

After Cut Appearance

Cutting Unit Mismatch

Flex 21 Service Manual

GM 1000 Service Manual

Kawasaki FE 120 Manual

Oil and Grease Lubrication


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## wardconnor

Oh thank you for showing how to remove the transport axle. I've never had the wheels anyway and always wanted to be able to mow closer to things. Great tip. I'm going to do that.


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## Ware

I changed my input drive belts today. The old ones were all cracked up. It was a little tricky, but I was able roll the old ones off and the new ones on without too much work. Hopefully the next owner appreciates them. 

ETA: I had to adjust the little belt guard on the front of the idler pulley. It rubbed the belts with the clutch engaged. I'm glad I checked that before putting the cover back on. It had a couple grooves worn in it so apparently it had been rubbing a while. :|

Before:


After:


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## wardconnor

So are these the 2 nuts that needs wrenches to remove transport axle? The one the wrench is on and the other one that my finger is on?


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## Ware

wardconnor said:


> So are these the 2 nuts that needs wrenches to remove transport axle? The one the wrench is on and the other one that my finger is on?


In between the frame and the drive roller - it is a 1" I think.

Also, I believe the axle on the right side of the machine (from operator position) is left-hand/reverse threaded.


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## wardconnor

Thanks. That right (from users position) axle shaft is indeed backwards threaded. Thanks for the tips. I can now mow closer like I've always wanted to!


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## dfw_pilot

Glad you got them off! I hope it wasn't too trying to do so. Keep them in a drawer for resale or if you ever come across a set of wheels.

Sorry I wasn't clear earlier. For other readers, yes, the axle inside the mower, between the frame and the drum has a flat section to get a 1" wrench on it. The wrench will then lock the axle when it rests against the frame of the mower. Then you can really crank on the transport axle with another ratcheting wrench, pipe wrench, or 10' cheater bar.


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## Redtenchu

dfw_pilot said:


> or 10' cheater bar.


+1, I think mine was 36'


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## Reelnutt

I bought a flex 21 last weekend cheap long story short there's a loud noise coming from the gear box when you engage the drive I also can't get the reel to spin all the time I can adjust the cable and get it to spin some. I drained all the fluid pulled the cover off there was no metal and everything seemed to be in place. I'm guessing the clutch is probably wore out but what could the loud grinding noise be. I'm currently using my GM1000 so the flex is looking like a project.


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## Redtenchu

Here is a link to the user manual of the first series of  Toro Flex 21s it's all basic (but important info). Be sure you are engaging the reel/drive system correctly!

Additionally, 
be sure all your belts are in good order.
be sure the reel spins freely by hand.
be sure the gearbox sprocket isn't locked up.
be sure the fluid level of the gearbox is correct.
be sure the handle that engages the gearbox for is freely moving the engagement cable.

After you've gone over all this, it's time to dig deeper. Here is a link to the  Flex21 service manual.

Page 4-4 gives instruction on the correct way to adjust the cable tension for reel engagement (this helped my issues).

Page 4-24 through 4-34 gives instruction on removal/installation and overhaul of the gearbox assembly. I hope you don't need this!


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## Redtenchu

If the cable adjustment does work, I would start looking into a replacement gearbox. Some internal parts may be very expensive or hard to find.


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## Reelnutt

I'm about to go out and tear into it again


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## jcdenton

Bought an old Toro GreensMaster 1000 recently. I've only been able to use it once. Since then it will barely move. The reel will also struggle to move. It starts up fine though. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm going to do my best to restore this machine.


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## Jericho574

Any thoughts on this machine from the ad?

https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/grd/6140009199.html

I almost wonder if the price is too low considering its a 2013??


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## Redtenchu

jcdenton said:


> Bought an old Toro GreensMaster 100 recently. I've only been able to use it once. Since then it will barely move. The reel will also struggle to move. It starts up fine though. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm going to do my best to restore this machine.


Make sure the parking break isn't on (it's not on in the pictures), or stuck in the lock position at the pulley. I believe it's a tension break on the pulley.

Move the bedknife away from the reel to ensure they aren't binding.

Let us know!


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## Redtenchu

Jericho574 said:


> Any thoughts on this machine from the ad?
> 
> https://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/grd/6140009199.html
> 
> I almost wonder if the price is too low considering its a 2013??


That looks like a solid mower at a good price!


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## thegardentool

So I have a lead on a well priced GM 1000 but I'm second guessing it because of the rear drum. How big of a deal is it to roll these rear drums over concrete? I have 3 areas of grass I would have to go over concrete to get to along with a wide driveway to go across. There's also a spot I might have to turn on concrete along the fence. It has transport wheels included but likely first step would be the need to try to remove the axles because of all the obstacles in the back yard.


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## Ware

Not a big deal at all. I cross my driveway and drive it down a long sidewalk to the backyard every time I mow.


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## thegardentool

Ware said:


> Not a big deal at all. I cross my driveway and drive it down a long sidewalk to the backyard every time I mow.


Thank you! Read some conflicting information elsewhere on other forums. So this might be a good resource for somebody to know in the future.


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## ahartzell

So i'm about to pull the trigger on a GM1000 with groomer. The seller from truant said they will backlap, set HOC, and get it ready for me to mow. I've looked through some of these things and it's a little overwhelming. I'm not sure what HOC to tell them to set it at (since effective HOC will be different) and it looks like I need a degree in reel mowers to operate, maintain, and adjust the thing :?


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## J_nick

As for rolling across concrete I've never seen any harm on my roller. The sound is unpleasant but no negative effects so far.

Maintenance on them I feel is actually easier than a homeowner model. I backlapped my greensmower and TruCut earlier this week and would rather do the greensmower 10 times than do the TruCut once.

Check out this thread for making your own HOC bar. It only takes a couple minutes to change HOC so I wouldn't worry about it


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## ahartzell

J_nick said:


> As for rolling across concrete I've never seen any harm on my roller. The sound is unpleasant but no negative effects so far.
> 
> Maintenance on them I feel is actually easier than a homeowner model. I backlapped my greensmower and TruCut earlier this week and would rather do the greensmower 10 times than do the TruCut once.
> 
> Check out this thread for making your own HOC bar. It only takes a couple minutes to change HOC so I wouldn't worry about it


Anyone ever change the angle/aggressiveness of bedknife?


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## wardconnor

Ware said:


> Not a big deal at all. I cross my driveway and drive it down a long sidewalk to the backyard every time I mow.


I roll my on hard concrete and asphalt regularly was well. Like J nick said, not a pleasant sound but not a problem.


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## lagerman72

wardconnor said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not a big deal at all. I cross my driveway and drive it down a long sidewalk to the backyard every time I mow.
> 
> 
> 
> I roll my on hard concrete and asphalt regularly was well. Like J nick said, not a pleasant sound but not a problem.
Click to expand...

Same except I kind of like the sound. Sounds like a train rolling down the tracks over the seams....strange, but I take it as a sign of a serious piece of kit!


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## thegardentool

Can anybody with a GM 1000 measure the widest part of the deck without the axles? Specs showed something like 36" wide but I'm assuming that's with the axles. Deck doesn't look too much wider than the reel in pictures but the angles might be deceiving me.


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## Redtenchu

I purchased a 2008 cutting unit for my 2004 Toro Flex 21 after the original cutting unit ate part of my driveway. 

The 2008 cutting unit has a 14 blade reel and carbon tipped groomer. I'm a little concerned about my target HOC with a 14 blade reel, but only time will reviel if issues arise. However, I'm very excited to have a groomer!

When I received the unit, I set the HOC and Groomer. Gave it a quick blacklap to knock off a little rust and rehone the reel/BK. Tried to attach the cutting unit to the power drive unit and realized the shaft was a different size!










Top shaft is 2004, bottom is 2008. 









Borrowed a set of roll pin punches from a friend and had no issue swapping them out!

Everything else matches up nicely between the 2 different models.


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## Redtenchu

After playing with the groomer and getting too aggressive, too soon, I wanted to change a few things up.

I removed the rear smooth roller and replaced it with a second (larger DIA) grooved roller.

I used my Meme Maker :lol:
FYI-This is the bottom of the cutting unit.









To ensure the larger grooved roller fit, I had to swap the rear roller bracket spacer from top to bottom. This picture is also from the bottom.


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## ahartzell

I stumbled across these yesterday. Most have probably seen these. They're long and some things don't apply since some is discussing fairway/triplex mowers. However, there is a good amount on reel mowers in general.

http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6KlztUF_qYbcvzYtm9mEMKd4FBjWTbPI


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## Mightyquinn

ahartzell said:


> I stumbled across these yesterday. Most have probably seen these. They're long and some things don't apply since some is discussing fairway/triplex mowers. However, there is a good amount on reel mowers in general.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL6KlztUF_qYbcvzYtm9mEMKd4FBjWTbPI


Just clicked on the link and I have watched them ALL already :thumbup:


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## Ware

thegardentool said:


> Can anybody with a GM 1000 measure the widest part of the deck without the axles? Specs showed something like 36" wide but I'm assuming that's with the axles. Deck doesn't look too much wider than the reel in pictures but the angles might be deceiving me.


With or without a groomer? I have a groomer on mine and it measures 29.5" at the widest point. It would be maybe an inch less without a groomer.


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## Redtenchu

Purchased a new Bedknife for the Flex 21. I went with the Razor Tool Steel Tournament Bedknife from R&R. It needed a little backlap, but not much. This is the best edge combo I've ever had!


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## thegardentool

Hopefully last question for a little bit but how long of an Acc-Gage will work with the GM? No time to pull it out of the garage to take a measurement and probably just need to order one ASAP.

Edit: Thanks Ware! That measurement helps at least for the short term until i figure out better landscaping plan in the back.


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## dfw_pilot

Accu-Gage Standard works for a GM1000.


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## Ware

thegardentool said:


> Hopefully last question for a little bit but how long of an Acc-Gage will work with the GM? No time to pull it out of the garage to take a measurement and probably just need to order one ASAP.
> 
> Edit: Thanks Ware! That measurement helps at least for the short term until i figure out better landscaping plan in the back.


I have the standard 18" and it works fine on the GM1000. The "Hands Free Attachment" is a very nice upgrade. I also have the "Gauge Guard" option. I would consider those upgrades in that order.


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## Topcat

I found a 2008 Flex 21 for sale. The owner states the reel will not engage and needs adjustment. He is selling for 650.00 and states the reel simply needs adjustment. He offered to have it done but would add the service fee to the price. Or I could do it and save that cost. Is this something that is common for the Flex series mowers? I am leaning towards passing, but if this "adjustment" that he refers to is not that serious then ... maybe.


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## Redtenchu

My 2004 had this issue when I first purchased it, it was a simple cable adjustment and replacement of a leaking seal on the gearbox. I can't say it would work for you.

We have username reelnut from SC that had this issue, but it wasn't a simple fix. He planned to overhaul the gearbox but hasn't reported back if he made any progress.

$200-300 would be a good price for a Flex that needs work.
$400-500 for one that's in working condition but needs TLC. 
$600-800 for one that's been overhauled, sharpened, adjusted, cleaned, parts replaced and in like new shape.

+$200 if it includes a groomer :mrgreen:


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## Topcat

Thanks for the response. I think I will pass. I am not interested in paying his price for a gamble. He is pretty firm on the price because"these sell for 900.00 to 1200.00


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## ahartzell

Btw some of the links in initial post don't work anymore...


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## Ware

ahartzell said:


> Btw some of the links in initial post don't work anymore...


Thanks. I think I fixed them. :thumbup:


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## thegardentool

dfw_pilot said:


> I wanted the transport axles off my Toro GM1000 so I could get closer to objects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a spare GM1000 that I have and I had so much trouble getting them off the first one, I dreaded doing it again on this one. It turns out, I was fortunate this time. They came off without much trouble.
> 
> Toro puts thread locker on the axles to keep them in very tight. The best way I've found to remove them when they have thread locker applied, is to heat up the axle with a blow torch for three minutes. This gets it hot enough to loosen the thread locker and allow it to break free. My first GM1000 required 3-4 minutes of heat from a Berzomatic, locking the inner axle with a 1 inch crescent, and then hopping on the crescent on the transport axle. It was a nightmare up until that point, but the heat made it work nicely.
> 
> Today with this one, I put the 1 inch crescent on the inner axle, put another crescent on the transport axle, stood on it, and: _*pop!*_
> 
> If you want to take yours off, first try the easy two-crescent method. If that doesn't work, buy a torch, take your belts off the pulley's and heat it up.


Should there be any trick to getting the covers taken off of both sides? I'm getting two bolts out of each side but the other two bolts feel like they kept spinning. Not seeing anything useful in the manuals about them either other than to remove them.


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## Ware

thegardentool said:


> Should there be any trick to getting the covers taken off of both sides? I'm getting two bolts out of each side but the other two bolts feel like they kept spinning. Not seeing anything useful in the manuals about them either other than to remove them.


Yes, the inserts they are threaded into are notorious for working loose and spinning in the frame. You should be able to hold the back side of threaded insert with a pair of pliers or needle nose vise grips.


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## Ware

You can see them circled in this photo. The threaded inserts are riveted into the red mower frame. You can get ahold of them on the back side, between the frame and drum. I think I used needle nose vise grips. Good luck. :thumbup:


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## thegardentool

Ware said:


> Yes, the inserts they are threaded into are notorious for working loose and spinning in the frame. You should be able to hold the back side of threaded insert with a pair of pliers or needle nose vise grips.


I had started to try holding the back of one with some pliers but then I thought I did not want to break anything in case there was something else going on that I wasn't reading in the manual right. Guess I'll give it another quick try just to see. How do you go about putting them back on, just hold the insert with pliers again?


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## Ware

Yeah, I would just hold the threaded insert again to tighten. When it happened to mine I actually never put the side covers back on - it's faster without that extra weight.


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## dfw_pilot

I use a pair of Vise Grips® on the few that spin.


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## ahartzell

Well I got my new mower. I know most of you cut off your wheels/axles but I didn't get wheels with mine. I think I'd like them bc the sound of the roller on the concrete is like nails on a chalkboard &#128534;


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## thegardentool

ahartzell said:


> Well I got my new mower. I know most of you cut off your wheels/axles but I didn't get wheels with mine. I think I'd like them bc the sound of the roller on the concrete is like nails on a chalkboard 😖


It does sound pretty bad but that's what ear protection is for anyway!


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## Mightyquinn

ahartzell said:


> Well I got my new mower. I know most of you cut off your wheels/axles but I didn't get wheels with mine. I think I'd like them bc the sound of the roller on the concrete is like nails on a chalkboard 😖


I was the same way when I got my mower and it was brand new so the drum was all pretty and shiny  I was very protective of it at first but eventually you will get use to the sound as it makes mowing the lawn so much easier when you don't worry about the concrete so much.


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## Redtenchu

After you snag the transport axel on something and send your greensmaster into a fence, house or flowerbed, you don't mind the sound as much on the driveway!

:lol:


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## Ware

Redtenchu said:


> After you snag the transport axel on something and send your greensmaster into a fence, house or flowerbed, you don't mind the sound as much on the driveway!
> 
> :lol:


+1 :lol:


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## ahartzell

So I played with the mower this morning. Tried the paper test. It pinches, but I can't hardly get it to cut at 90 deg. Sometimes it will so I'm not sure if I've got it at the exact angle or not. The dealer said he backlapped and sharpen the bed knife. However, looking at it in the daylight, the bed knife and reel are pretty rusty 

Also, I have a little "button" near one side and it looks like it should engage/disengage the groomer, but it doesn't do anything (at least with mower not on). Wanting to just raise groomer up all the way to make sure, but the knobs won't twist...boy this thing has a learning curve.


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## Mightyquinn

ahartzell said:


> So I played with the mower this morning. Tried the paper test. It pinches, but I can't hardly get it to cut at 90 deg. Sometimes it will so I'm not sure if I've got it at the exact angle or not. The dealer said he backlapped and sharpen the bed knife. However, looking at it in the daylight, the bed knife and reel are pretty rusty
> 
> Also, I have a little "button" near one side and it looks like it should engage/disengage the groomer, but it doesn't do anything (at least with mower not on). Wanting to just raise groomer up all the way to make sure, but the knobs won't twist...boy this thing has a learning curve.


Rust will form on the reel and bedknife rather quickly as it is fresh metal and there is nothing protecting it. Just imagine the paper as grass blades getting cut by the mower but it should cut it fairly easy and shouldn't have to be at an exact angle. You might need to adjust the reel to bedknife a little bit but I'll leave that up to the Toro experts here.


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## ahartzell

Mightyquinn said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I played with the mower this morning. Tried the paper test. It pinches, but I can't hardly get it to cut at 90 deg. Sometimes it will so I'm not sure if I've got it at the exact angle or not. The dealer said he backlapped and sharpen the bed knife. However, looking at it in the daylight, the bed knife and reel are pretty rusty
> 
> Also, I have a little "button" near one side and it looks like it should engage/disengage the groomer, but it doesn't do anything (at least with mower not on). Wanting to just raise groomer up all the way to make sure, but the knobs won't twist...boy this thing has a learning curve.
> 
> 
> 
> Rust will form on the reel and bedknife rather quickly as it is fresh metal and there is nothing protecting it. Just imagine the paper as grass blades getting cut by the mower but it should cut it fairly easy and shouldn't have to be at an exact angle. You might need to adjust the reel to bedknife a little bit but I'll leave that up to the Toro experts here.
Click to expand...

Yea I clicked the bed knife adjustment 1 click closer, but it already has some "light contact" and pinches the paper straight on so I think its ok but i'm definitely no expert.


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## Redtenchu

ahartzell said:


> So I played with the mower this morning. Tried the paper test. It pinches, but I can't hardly get it to cut at 90 deg. Sometimes it will so I'm not sure if I've got it at the exact angle or not. The dealer said he backlapped and sharpen the bed knife. However, looking at it in the daylight, the bed knife and reel are pretty rusty


You should find the mower will cut grass fine, the paper test is more of a gold standard. I have cut many times with a less than gold standard and haven't had issues. With that being said.... I always try to keep the blade at the point where it will cut 2 pieces of paper, or a piece of construction paper. This isn't ideal, but works.


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## Redtenchu

ahartzell said:


> Also, I have a little "button" near one side and it looks like it should engage/disengage the groomer, but it doesn't do anything (at least with mower not on). Wanting to just raise groomer up all the way to make sure, but the knobs won't twist...boy this thing has a learning curve.


You might remove the covers to verify what the button and knobs do, I can't help much more than that. My groomer doesn't have an off switch.


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## Redtenchu

+1 MQ on the rust.

The more I hear about people buying "refurbished" greens mowers, the less I believe they did anything but the minimum to ensure it's working.

Even the "refurbished" cutting unit I purchased had a bad bedknife, a broken bolt, very old grease in the bearings, and a few other minor issues.

I don't mean to put all equipment resellers in the same basket, but they are like used car dealers...


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## ahartzell

Well I ended up clicking one side 3 clicks closer and the other side 7 clicks closer. Now it cuts paper clean from side to side with the exception of one 1/4" on very edge.


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## Stro3579

Is the toro flex better then the standard greensmaster?


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## Redtenchu

Stro3579 said:


> Is the toro flex better then the standard greensmaster?


There is pros and cons for both.

One major set back would be the max HOC for the Flex21 is 0.500. You can purchase a separate kit to increase the max HOC to 0.750, but the kit won't work with a groomer if one is installed.

If the HOC is not a deal breaker, let me know and I'll list a few more :lol:


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## Stro3579

I want something that can cut up to at least 1 inch


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## Redtenchu

Stro3579 said:


> I want something that can cut up to at least 1 inch


A Toro 1000 or 1600 is what you want.


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## Stro3579

I have been dealing with this guy name Greg from praireturfequipment. They have a 2014 Toro GM 1600 for $1500. Cost of shipping $450. So $1950 to my door step.

Not sure how to post pictures on here.

Has anyone delt with this company?


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## Ware

Stro3579 said:


> I have been dealing with this guy name Greg from praireturfequipment. They have a 2014 Toro GM 1600 for $1500. Cost of shipping $450. So $1950 to my door step.
> 
> Not sure how to post pictures on here.
> 
> Has anyone delt with this company?


Here is a link to the listing.

​
I have talked with them before. They're a Canadian company, but have no problems shipping them down to the states. They seem to get some newer units than some of the other places I've looked. 2014/15 is a very late year model when it comes to used greens mowers. Those have the Subaru engine on them - they switched from Kawasaki a few years ago.

Some would say that's a high price for a used greens mower, but I'm on the other side - I wouldn't mind paying a premium for a newer unit like that if it fits your budget. That's probably what you would pay for a new Tru-Cut with a front roller.

I'm also a big fan of the 26" mowers. I really miss my 27" Tru-Cut sometimes. If I hadn't just bought a JD 220E, I would probably snatch one of these up. It says they have 6, but don't let that delay your decision - it's not uncommon for a golf course to call up and buy the whole lot. :thumbup:


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## Stro3579

Ware said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have been dealing with this guy name Greg from praireturfequipment. They have a 2014 Toro GM 1600 for $1500. Cost of shipping $450. So $1950 to my door step.
> 
> Not sure how to post pictures on here.
> 
> Has anyone delt with this company?
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a link to the listing.
> 
> ​
> I have talked with them before. They're a Canadian company, but have no problems shipping them down to the states. They seem to get some newer units than some of the other places I've looked. 2014/15 is a very late year model when it comes to used greens mowers. Those have the Subaru engine on them - they switched from Kawasaki a few years ago.
> 
> Some would say that's a high price for a used greens mower, but I'm on the other side - I wouldn't mind paying a premium for a newer unit like that if it fits your budget. That's probably what you would pay for a new Tru-Cut with a front roller.
> 
> I'm also a big fan of the 26" mowers. I really miss my 27" Tru-Cut sometimes. If I hadn't just bought a JD 220E, I would probably snatch one of these up. It says they have 6, but don't let that delay your decision - it's not uncommon for a golf course to call up and buy the whole lot. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Is the Subaru engine supposed to be good?


----------



## Ware

Stro3579 said:


> Is the Subaru engine supposed to be good?


I don't have any personal experience with them, but you'd have to think Toro thought so - that's one of the biggest changes they've made in the GM series to date.

I haven't been all that impressed with the Kawasaki on my GM1000, but I'm a little partial to Honda. It may be just a familiarity thing though.


----------



## Stro3579

Ware said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is the Subaru engine supposed to be good?
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have any personal experience with them, but you'd have to think Toro thought so - that's one of the biggest changes they've made in the GM series to date.
> 
> I haven't been all that impressed with the Kawasaki on my GM1000, but I'm a little partial to Honda. It may be just a familiarity thing though.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I think I'm gonna pull the trigger


----------



## Ware

Stro3579 said:


> Thanks, I think I'm gonna pull the trigger


Cool. You might ask if any of them have groomers. The one in the photos doesn't, but that would be a bonus. I think the 26" units are used on approaches and tee boxes - which are cut a little higher than a green. Consequently, you don't see many with groomers, but they do have 8-blade reels, which technically yield a more desirable clip rate for the HOC's we typically work with on a lawn. Keep us posted! :thumbup:


----------



## Stro3579

Ware said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I think I'm gonna pull the trigger
> 
> 
> 
> Cool. You might ask if any of them have groomers. The one in the photos doesn't, but that would be a bonus. I think the 26" units are used on approaches and tee boxes - which are cut a little higher than a green. Consequently, you don't see many with groomers, but they do have 8-blade reels, which technically yield a more desirable clip rate for the HOC's we typically work with on a lawn. Keep us posted! :thumbup:
Click to expand...

No, doesn't have groomers. What do they do? Also is that a accessory I can add in the future? I was told it cuts from 3/8 up to 7/8 inch.


----------



## Ware

A groomer is a set of vertical blades in front of the reel that are set to some distance below your HOC. They work to remove some material from the canopy. There are several benefits - Simon has a good video about it (but I think he uses a dedicated groomer)...






A groomer can be added, but would cost more than you're paying for the mower. There are benefits to having one, but I wouldn't call not having one a deal breaker. It's not even an option for a McLane or Tru-Cut. I have one on both of my mowers, but haven't used them yet.

You should get 1/8" to 1-1/4" HOC range with the 1600. Here are the specs.


----------



## wardconnor

Stro3579 said:


> Thanks, I think I'm gonna pull the trigger


This makes me totally stoked and I'm not even the one getting it. I'm just happy that your getting it because I know once you get used to it you are going to love it.


----------



## Stro3579

wardconnor said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I think I'm gonna pull the trigger
> 
> 
> 
> This makes me totally stoked and I'm not even the one getting it. I'm just happy that your getting it because I know once you get used to it you are going to love it.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I'm pretty stoked also. Just thinking about this $1950 😀


----------



## Stro3579

Ware said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have been dealing with this guy name Greg from praireturfequipment. They have a 2014 Toro GM 1600 for $1500. Cost of shipping $450. So $1950 to my door step.
> 
> Not sure how to post pictures on here.
> 
> Has anyone delt with this company?
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a link to the listing.
> 
> ​
> I have talked with them before. They're a Canadian company, but have no problems shipping them down to the states. They seem to get some newer units than some of the other places I've looked. 2014/15 is a very late year model when it comes to used greens mowers. Those have the Subaru engine on them - they switched from Kawasaki a few years ago.
> 
> Some would say that's a high price for a used greens mower, but I'm on the other side - I wouldn't mind paying a premium for a newer unit like that if it fits your budget. That's probably what you would pay for a new Tru-Cut with a front roller.
> 
> I'm also a big fan of the 26" mowers. I really miss my 27" Tru-Cut sometimes. If I hadn't just bought a JD 220E, I would probably snatch one of these up. It says they have 6, but don't let that delay your decision - it's not uncommon for a golf course to call up and buy the whole lot. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

That's what I have now 27" Tru Cut. I like it a lot. Once I get this 1600, I will just used the Tru cut if I miss my cutting schedule and grass gets to tall. Also will use it to scalp yard for leveling and spring first cut.


----------



## Stro3579

Ware said:


> A groomer is a set of vertical blades in front of the reel that are set to some distance below your HOC. They work to remove some material from the canopy. There are several benefits - Simon has a good video about it (but I think he uses a dedicated groomer)...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A groomer can be added, but would cost more than you're paying for the mower. There are benefits to having one, but I wouldn't call not having one a deal breaker. It's not even an option for a McLane or Tru-Cut. I have one on both of my mowers, but haven't used them yet.
> 
> You should get 1/8" to 1-1/4" HOC range with the 1600. Here are the specs.


Great info, thanks. Maybe next year on the groomer. Where can I get one though?


----------



## Stro3579

I did a search and couldn't find hoc adjustments on toro gm 1000/1600


----------



## Ware

Stro3579 said:


> That's what I have now 27" Tru Cut. I like it a lot. Once I get this 1600, I will just used the Tru cut if I miss my cutting schedule and grass gets to tall. Also will use it to scalp yard for leveling and spring first cut.


Good plan. :thumbup:



Stro3579 said:


> I did a search and couldn't find hoc adjustments on toro gm 1000/1600


Like how to do it?


----------



## Stro3579

Ware said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I have now 27" Tru Cut. I like it a lot. Once I get this 1600, I will just used the Tru cut if I miss my cutting schedule and grass gets to tall. Also will use it to scalp yard for leveling and spring first cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Good plan. :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I did a search and couldn't find hoc adjustments on toro gm 1000/1600
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Like how to do it?
Click to expand...

Yes, how to change heights. I saw on YouTube, there is s special dial gauge tool or something needed.


----------



## dfw_pilot

9/16ths or similar socket wrench loosens two bolts (one on each side) and the same wrench turns two other bolts to raise or lower the front roller. It really does only take 90 seconds.


----------



## Ware

Stro3579 said:


> Yes, how to change heights. I saw on YouTube, there is s special dial gauge tool or something needed.


Yes, because each side is adjusted independently, you need a gauge to make sure both sides are adjusted to the same height. There are a couple options:


HOC Bar on a Budget!
ACCU-GAGE | Reel Mower HOC Gauge


----------



## Stro3579

Ware said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I think I'm gonna pull the trigger
> 
> 
> 
> Cool. You might ask if any of them have groomers. The one in the photos doesn't, but that would be a bonus. I think the 26" units are used on approaches and tee boxes - which are cut a little higher than a green. Consequently, you don't see many with groomers, but they do have 8-blade reels, which technically yield a more desirable clip rate for the HOC's we typically work with on a lawn. Keep us posted! :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Do you think the quality of cut will be a lot better coming from a trucut to the 1600?


----------



## Ware

Stro3579 said:


> Do you think the quality of cut will be a lot better coming from a trucut to the 1600?


Honestly, probably not "a lot".


----------



## Stro3579

Ware said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think the quality of cut will be a lot better coming from a trucut to the 1600?
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, probably not "a lot".
Click to expand...

What if I went with a greens mower with more blades?


----------



## dfw_pilot

More blades doesn't always mean better. 11-14 blades work best when the HOC is .1"

I like a greens mower less for the cut, and more for the solid build, weight, attachments like groomers, and ease of adjustments. Plus, any minimal increase in quality of cut will be more noticeable as your lawn improves, unlike a home owner model.


----------



## Stro3579

dfw_pilot said:


> More blades doesn't always mean better. 11-14 blades work best when the HOC is .1"
> 
> I like a greens mower less for the cut, and more for the solid build, weight, attachments like groomers, and ease of adjustments. Plus, any minimal increase in quality of cut will be more noticeable as your lawn improves, unlike a home owner model.


So cutting lower HOC(under a inch) is better for lower number of blades?


----------



## Ware

Stro3579 said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you think the quality of cut will be a lot better coming from a trucut to the 1600?
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, probably not "a lot".
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What if I went with a greens mower with more blades?
Click to expand...




Stro3579 said:


> So cutting lower HOC(under a inch) is better for lower number of blades?


You would likely notice no difference between greens mowers with more or less blades on a home lawn. The number of blades affect the clip rate, and technically a greens mower with less blades will perform better at higher HOC's. But again, probably not enough to notice.

The "textbooks" say the optimal cut is achieved when the clip rate equals the HOC. The Toro Greensmaster specs (1000/1600) say the clip rate with an 11-blade reel is 0.16" and the the clip rate with an 8-blade reel is 0.23". So if your HOC is closer to 0.23" than 0.16", you are technically better off with an 8-blade reel. Toro even offers a clip kit that alters clip frequency for an improved quality of cut at higher HOC's - it changes the clip rate to 0.25" with an 11-blade and 0.34" with an 8-blade.

For more information, you can read Toro's Reel Mower Basics.

A greens mower probably produces a better cut than a Tru-Cut, but I wouldn't expect to be wowed in the same way you were when you switched from a rotary to a Tru-Cut. The quality of cut will be similar. The greens mower probably gets the edge the lower you go, due to the geometry of the drum drive and front roller. And I agree with dfw:



dfw_pilot said:


> ...I like a greens mower less for the cut, and more for the solid build, weight, attachments like groomers, and ease of adjustments. Plus, any minimal increase in quality of cut will be more noticeable as your lawn improves, unlike a home owner model.


----------



## dfw_pilot

Stro3579 said:


> So cutting lower HOC(under a inch) is better for lower number of blades?


No. You may have missed the small (.) next to the 1. Lower HOC needs more blades like 11 or 14 because of the FOC like Ware mentioned. At one inch cuts, 5-8 blades will be more than enough.


----------



## Stro3579

dfw_pilot said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So cutting lower HOC(under a inch) is better for lower number of blades?
> 
> 
> 
> No. You may have missed the small (.) next to the 1. Lower HOC needs more blades like 11 or 14 because of the FOC like Ware mentioned. At one inch cuts, 5-8 blades will be more than enough.
Click to expand...

I just saw his post. I am trying to achieve 1/2"or lower. My goal.


----------



## Stro3579

Ware said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly, probably not "a lot".
> 
> 
> 
> What if I went with a greens mower with more blades?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So cutting lower HOC(under a inch) is better for lower number of blades?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You would likely notice no difference between greens mowers with more or less blades on a home lawn. The number of blades affect the clip rate, and technically a greens mower with less blades will perform better at higher HOC's. But again, probably not enough to notice.
> 
> The "textbooks" say the optimal cut is achieved when the clip rate equals the HOC. The Toro Greensmaster specs (1000/1600) say the clip rate with an 11-blade reel is 0.16" and the the clip rate with an 8-blade reel is 0.23". So if your HOC is closer to 0.23" than 0.16", you are technically better off with an 8-blade reel. Toro even offers a clip kit that alters clip frequency for an improved quality of cut at higher HOC's - it changes the clip rate to 0.25" with an 11-blade and 0.34" with an 8-blade.
> 
> For more information, you can read Toro's Reel Mower Basics.
> 
> A greens mower probably produces a better cut than a Tru-Cut, but I wouldn't expect to be wowed in the same way you were when you switched from a rotary to a Tru-Cut. The quality of cut will be similar. The greens mower probably gets the edge the lower you go, due to the geometry of the drum drive and front roller. And I agree with dfw:
> 
> 
> 
> dfw_pilot said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...I like a greens mower less for the cut, and more for the solid build, weight, attachments like groomers, and ease of adjustments. Plus, any minimal increase in quality of cut will be more noticeable as your lawn improves, unlike a home owner model.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thanks, so much to take in.


----------



## ahartzell

Any resources on adjusting the groomer? I found a manual online but it was a little different than my GM 1000. The adjustment knobs also don't seem to want to turn.


----------



## dfw_pilot

ahartzell said:


> The adjustment knobs also don't seem to want to turn.


Mine don't either. In the off-season, I plan on removing the groomer and working it over to get it un-frozen. It's probably seized from rust or contamination.


----------



## Stro3579

Are you able to dismount the cutting unit on all Toro Greensmaster mowers or just on the flex mowers? Also which flex mower has a higher HOC? I read there is a Flex21 and 2100?


----------



## Redtenchu

Only the Flex mowers disconnect. The older Flex21 has a higher HOC of 0.500. I believe the Flex2100 maxes out at 0.290


----------



## wardconnor

ahartzell said:


> The adjustment knobs also don't seem to want to turn.


PB Blaster


----------



## Stro3579

Redtenchu said:


> Only the Flex mowers disconnect. The older Flex21 has a higher HOC of 0.500. I believe the Flex2100 maxes out at 0.290


Thanks, dont you have a flex 21? what hight are you cutting at now?


----------



## dfw_pilot

wardconnor said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> 
> The adjustment knobs also don't seem to want to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> PB Blaster
Click to expand...

I'll add that I've tried this and other loosening agents to no avail. I hope it works for others, though.


----------



## Redtenchu

Stro3579 said:


> Redtenchu said:
> 
> 
> 
> Only the Flex mowers disconnect. The older Flex21 has a higher HOC of 0.500. I believe the Flex2100 maxes out at 0.290
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, dont you have a flex 21? what hight are you cutting at now?
Click to expand...

Yes, I had a complete 2004 Flex21. The cutting unit was damaged and have adapted a 2008 cutting unit with a groomer to my 2004 power/drive unit. There are a few minor changes made over the 4 years.

I'm currently cutting at 0.375.


----------



## ahartzell

I have a feeling my grooming knobs are bound up but I also have no idea how to adjust it either so I can't say for sure.


----------



## Ware

ahartzell said:


> I have a feeling my grooming knobs are bound up but I also have no idea how to adjust it either so I can't say for sure.


See links on page 1 of this thread. The groomer is covered in Chapter 8 of the Factory Service Manual. :thumbup:


----------



## ahartzell

Ware said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a feeling my grooming knobs are bound up but I also have no idea how to adjust it either so I can't say for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> See links on page 1 of this thread. The groomer is covered in Chapter 8 of the Factory Service Manual. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Had a feeling I missed it somewhere lol


----------



## Ware

ahartzell said:


> Had a feeling I missed it somewhere lol


Here


----------



## ahartzell

Well...here is a screenshot for quick reference on how to adjust the groomer. My quick up-down levers only rotate about 1/3 of the way to fully down. The micro-adjusters might turn one click. But my biggest concern is that I don't have part #2 in the picture...confused as to why I don't have a clutch knob. I have the snubber but not the knob to engage/disengage. It's just a flat plate.


----------



## Ware

ahartzell said:


> Well...here is a screenshot for quick reference on how to adjust the groomer. My quick up-down levers only rotate about 1/3 of the way to fully down. The micro-adjusters might turn one click. But my biggest concern is that I don't have part #2 in the picture...confused as to why I don't have a clutch knob. I have the snubber but not the knob to engage/disengage. It's just a flat plate.


I've never seen one with the clutch knob. The only two variants I've seen are the ones mentioned here. Mine is a full time unit (no clutch or snubber).


----------



## ahartzell

Well do I have some sort of hybrid or Frankenstein? I have the snubber but not the knob to engage/disengage.


----------



## Ware

ahartzell said:


> Well do I have some sort of hybrid or Frankenstein? I have the snubber but not the knob to engage/disengage.


You might try to google your mower's model number for a different factory service manual. They have made some changes over the years.


----------



## Stro3579

wardconnor said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I think I'm gonna pull the trigger
> 
> 
> 
> This makes me totally stoked and I'm not even the one getting it. I'm just happy that your getting it because I know once you get used to it you are going to love it.
Click to expand...

Got my mower today. I cant wait to use it. They sent me one with only 300 hours on it. I cant cut for probably another week or so. Did some aerating and leveling this past weekend. Put down 20 tons of sand. just need some rain now.  Will post picts soon.


----------



## ahartzell

Anyone been able to get the quick up/down and micro adjust knobs for groomer to work? Mine seem seized up (or I'm not doing it right)


----------



## thegardentool

On my GM 1000 one of the side bolts to loosen to adjust the HOC looks like somebody mauled it with an adjustable wrench and maybe some rust or gunk since I couldn't get it to budge with an adjustable wrench either. Nor could I get a good grip on it to try to loosen it with a regular 5/8" (I think? whatever worked on the other side). I meant to spray some PB Blaster on it before I put it back in the garage but I forgot so maybe tomorrow. It was just loose enough that I could still raise the HOC tonight but it definitely had some resistance from still being tightened. Not something I want it to stay like that. Any other suggestions for how I may go about it if the PB Blaster doesn't


----------



## Ware

thegardentool said:


> On my GM 1000 one of the side bolts to loosen to adjust the HOC looks like somebody mauled it with an adjustable wrench and maybe some rust or gunk since I couldn't get it to budge with an adjustable wrench either. Nor could I get a good grip on it to try to loosen it with a regular 5/8" (I think? whatever worked on the other side). I meant to spray some PB Blaster on it before I put it back in the garage but I forgot so maybe tomorrow. It was just loose enough that I could still raise the HOC tonight but it definitely had some resistance from still being tightened. Not something I want it to stay like that. Any other suggestions for how I may go about it if the PB Blaster doesn't


You can order replacement HOC adjustment parts from R&R Products.


----------



## Jericho574

My GM1000 arrived today from the auction. Started on the second pull. Put it away for a few hours. When I came back it started on the first pull and then I proceeded to cut the front. Then once I started the second half of the double cut, it dies. I add gas, check/add oil, and clean air filter and it continues to turn off after 2-3 seconds. Finished with the Tru-Cut and when I came back to try again I noticed I had the choke closed. Open the choke and It starts and stays on. Gave it one pass and then it shut off again. Gave her one last pull and smoke comes out of engine...decided that was the end of my night. Any thoughts for the mechanically declined?

One additional thought- I really like the throttle on the Tru-Cut because I can have the engine on full power and feather the throttle (small yard with lots of turning). With the GM I have to lower the engine speed so much that it barely wants to stay on.


----------



## J_nick

Jericho574 said:


> My GM1000 arrived today from the auction. Started on the second pull. Put it away for a few hours. When I came back it started on the first pull and then I proceeded to cut the front. Then once I started the second half of the double cut, it dies. I add gas, check/add oil, and clean air filter and it continues to turn off after 2-3 seconds. Finished with the Tru-Cut and when I came back to try again I noticed I had the choke closed. Open the choke and It starts and stays on. Gave it one pass and then it shut off again. Gave her one last pull and smoke comes out of engine...decided that was the end of my night. Any thoughts for the mechanically declined?
> 
> One additional thought- I really like the throttle on the Tru-Cut because I can have the engine on full power and feather the throttle (small yard with lots of turning). With the GM I have to lower the engine speed so much that it barely wants to stay on.


Take the carb off and shoot carb/choke cleaner in every hole you can... wear safety glasses. You most likely have something in the jet.


----------



## Stro3579

Let it run for awhile and smoke. I had this happen to me on a couple of mowers. Gas could have been on when transported. Which mixes oil with fuel. Also, the low oil sensors could be bad. May have to unplug that sensor and it will run ok. But I would start with letting it run first to clear the carb out of oil. If it runs ok and stops smoking, tilt mower back like you are turning it. If it shuts off then, it the sensor. If it's not that, carb needs cleaning. I personally would clean the carb anyway to be on the safe side eventually.


----------



## dfw_pilot

Gunked up carb.


----------



## Jericho574

Today I turned the brackets around and put the roller in the close position to the reel. I cleaned out the jet pilot and gave her another go. Started up on first pull and stayed on but within a couple seconds, white smoke started coming out and there was a burning smell. Shut her down.

I guess the next step is to drain and replace the oil, oil filter, and air filter. What else could be causing burning and smoke?

Also, the oil reservoir is in the back. What is the oil slot on the front of the engine for?


----------



## ABC123

Let it run for a while. See if it clears up


----------



## Jericho574

ABC123 said:


> Let it run for a while. See if it clears up


Even though it's smoking and smells like it's burning?


----------



## J_nick

Jericho574 said:


> Also, the oil reservoir is in the back. What is the oil slot on the front of the engine for?


Not 100% sure on the Toro's but my JD has them both at the front and back. The motors are made for a lot of different applications so they put them on both sides because they don't know what orientation the motor will be in when mounted.


----------



## Jericho574

Just wanted to refresh this thread one more time. I have smoke coming out and a burning smell. It's been suggested to let it run but burning smells coming out of an engine = "it's going to break" in my non-mechanical world. Sorry for the repeat question.


----------



## dfw_pilot

Maybe a bad piston ring is burning oil? Do these small engines even have piston rings? Either way, I wouldn't run it again until you have better answers.


----------



## Stro3579

Is their anything melted to the exhaust? Have you anylized exactly where the burning is coming from? Exhaust? Belts? Etc


----------



## Jericho574

Stro3579 said:


> Is their anything melted to the exhaust? Have you anylized exactly where the burning is coming from? Exhaust? Belts? Etc


Nothing melted. The smoke is coming out of the muffler.


----------



## metro424

For those of you with a Toro Flex 21 and Kawi engine, where are you finding replacement parts, specifically carb parts?

I won 3 in the last Weeks Turf Auction and they are overall in decent condition but the carbs are completely clogged and I need to rebuild them. I would like to get at least one running out of the bunch!

Thanks!


----------



## Redtenchu

Jericho574 said:


> Just wanted to refresh this thread one more time. I have smoke coming out and a burning smell. It's been suggested to let it run but burning smells coming out of an engine = "it's going to break" in my non-mechanical world. Sorry for the repeat question.


I'm not a small engine mechanic, but Here is what I would do.

#1 make sure you have the correct amount of oil in the engine, overfilling the oil can cause white smoke.

#2 check and clean the air filter. This is not likely to be the cause of the white smoke, but it takes 30 seconds to complete. If it's wet in any way, replace the filter. All small engines and can benifit greatly from a clean air filter.

#3 check the spark plug. Again, this is not causing the white smoke but you need to check the basics first.

#4 Drain and replace the fuel with a 90+ Octane if you haven't already. I don't recall every detail of your posts about this issue, but if you recently purchased the mower used there is no telling how long the fuel has been in the tank. Someone may've mistakenly added 2-Stroke fuel/oil mix to the tank.

After you've verified all 4 above you need to put the mower in an open location away from your home and run the engine up to temperature. White smoke is normally from oil contamination in the fuel, or from oil getting into the muffler. I know the white smoke can be scary, but it's likely to clear up within a few minutes. If the mower continues to smoke for more than 10 minutes after doing the steps above you may need to start shopping for a new engine. Please let us know what happens.


----------



## Ware

metro424 said:


> For those of you with a Toro Flex 21 and Kawi engine, where are you finding replacement parts, specifically carb parts?
> 
> I won 3 in the last Weeks Turf Auction and they are overall in decent condition but the carbs are completely clogged and I need to rebuild them. I would like to get at least one running out of the bunch!
> 
> Thanks!


For engine/carb parts, I would look at places like Jack's Small Engines or similar.


----------



## dfw_pilot

Ware said:


> For engine/carb parts, I would look at places like Jack's Small Engines or similar.


+1. I can vouch for them and have ordered parts for my carb from Jacks and got good service and prices.


----------



## jayhawk

Jericho574 said:


> Just wanted to refresh this thread one more time. I have smoke coming out and a burning smell. It's been suggested to let it run but burning smells coming out of an engine = "it's going to break" in my non-mechanical world. Sorry for the repeat question.


I'd be suspicious of any fuel on arrival. Could be water in there....drain all. I'd only use ethonal free too (save your carb long term). There is website that tracks stations do offer it.


----------



## Jericho574

Thanks for the advice guys!

I'm going to do all of those steps this weekend. There is a good chance I filled the oil up too high. Either way, I'm just going to drain and replace the oil and gas.


----------



## Jericho574

Thanks for the help guys, I'm back up and running! (Filled the oil too high when I first brought her home).


----------



## Redtenchu

Jericho574 said:


> Thanks for the help guys, I'm back up and running! (Filled the oil too high when I first brought her home).


I'm glad it was an easy fix.


----------



## Redtenchu

I'm thinking I have bad Gas in the mower and I'm hoping this is a pointless post, but wanted to bounce this off you all before I hit the sack.

I've had an issue over the past 2 weeks. The motor (fe120-Kawasaki) dies at random times while mowing. The issue has only gotten worse over time and today I wasn't able to mow because the motor would only run for 10-20 seconds before it dies.

I've confirmed it's not the air filter, gas cap vent. The spark plug is gapped and I also replaced it. I removed the carb and shot with cleaner. Checked the 0.012 gap on the valve lifters. Cleaned the gas filter and ensured the fuel is running into the carb.

I'm stumped, if you know anything else to check please post it, I'll check it tomorrow.


----------



## Stro3579

May be your low oil sensor.


----------



## Redtenchu

Stro3579 said:


> May be your low oil sensor.


Oh good tip, one I didn't check yet! This still wasn't the issue. However, this tip did lead me to check all the wiring, looking for any loose or bad wiring. I found the issue!

Here you can see my ignition on/off, it's a little worn and loose. Vibration from the engine was causing it to slightly move to the off position!



Here is my temporary fix until I can get a replacement! Duct Tape to the rescue!



Thanks for leading me down the correct path Stro!


----------



## Stro3579

Redtenchu said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> May be your low oil sensor.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh good tip, one I didn't check yet! This still wasn't the issue. However, this tip did lead me to check all the wiring, looking for any loose or bad wiring. I found the issue!
> 
> Here you can see my ignition on/off, it's a little worn and loose. Vibration from the engine was causing it to slightly move to the off position!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my temporary fix until I can get a replacement! Duct Tape to the rescue!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for leading me down the correct path Stro!
Click to expand...

Np!! Glad you figured it out.


----------



## Ware

I'm kind of excited about this... I bought this 9/16 x 5/8 wrench as it will make both reel to bedknife and HOC adjustments on the Toro's. These are available from a number of tool companies.


----------



## William

Very nice . . can't beat snap on.


----------



## ken-n-nancy

Ware said:


> I'm kind of excited about this... I bought this 9/16 x 5/8 wrench as it will make both reel to bedknife and HOC adjustments on the Toro's. These are available from a number of tool companies.


I have a similar 9/16" x 5/8" box-end wrench, which I prefer if the primary uses you have for the tool have the clearance for a box-end wrench. The box-end wrench greatly reduces the possibility of rounding off the corners of the bolt from hasty wrench placement.


----------



## Ware

ken-n-nancy said:


> I have a similar 9/16" x 5/8" box-end wrench, which I prefer if the primary uses you have for the tool have the clearance for a box-end wrench. The box-end wrench greatly reduces the possibility of rounding off the corners of the bolt from hasty wrench placement.


Yeah, same here. The HOC and reel to bedknife adjustments require very minimal torque though, and I've found there is some efficiency to be gained by being able to attack them from a less than perfect angle with an open end wrench - as you're usually laying on the ground in front of the reel with your head at bedknife level. :thumbup:


----------



## William

Hi All,

So I have a new to me GM 1000. This will be replacing a TC H-20. How safe is it to mow over sub cut level utility boxes? This like water main, fiber box, etc . . Also, running the mower along the side walk? I have done both with my TC with no issues but I understand the reel mower might be more delicate and don't want to bend the bed knife and destroy the reel. Currently cutting at 1". Plan to go to .75 next year after a .5 scalp, aerate, verticut, rake, and level.

Thanks,

William


----------



## Ware

Cross posting this parts source:



Colonel K0rn said:


> Actually, you can call Jerry Pate Turf, and they'll help you out. They can ship direct to you when you set up an account, but there prices are a bit more than R & R. 800-803-8676. I called them when I was pricing out the parts that I needed to replace. It's the same number as what's listed in the Toro Performance Parts Catalog (main catalog).


----------



## Redtenchu

William said:


> Hi All,
> 
> So I have a new to me GM 1000. This will be replacing a TC H-20. How safe is it to mow over sub cut level utility boxes?


Congrats! You shouldn't have any issues using the GM like your TC, but you may want to be cautious while scalping.


----------



## William

Thanks. Going to do my sudo final cut of the year.


----------



## g-man

I found this pdf with a cross reference of JD parts to standard bearings part numbers. In some cases it is a significant saving, on others the JD price is cheaper. Some of these you could read the bearing number printed on the part after you take it out and clean it, but using this list allows to order the part ahead of time.

I noticed it also has Toro parts, so maybe it could help a Toro owner to save some cash.

http://www.techsales-golfcoursedivision.com/product-price-guide-14.pdf


----------



## Ware




----------



## ahartzell

On the right side of the mower (from operator position), does anyone know what tool/size will fit to allow you to backlap with drill? @Redtenchu had a video that showed it from the left side, but mine has the extra piece for the groomer. I can take cover off right side and expose the belt and I'm able to spin either direction.


----------



## Ware

ahartzell said:


> On the right side of the mower (from operator position), does anyone know what tool/size will fit to allow you to backlap with drill? @Redtenchu had a video that showed it from the left side, but mine has the extra piece for the groomer. I can take cover off right side and expose the belt and I'm able to spin either direction.


Redtenchu's is a Toro Flex. This is what you need:


----------



## Greendoc

The pulley for the reel has a 1/2 square drive in the center of it. I use the socket adapters that are 1/4" hex and 1/2" square. There should be a rubber or plastic plug covering the hole that the square goes into.


----------



## Greendoc

Ware said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the mower (from operator position), does anyone know what tool/size will fit to allow you to backlap with drill? @Redtenchu had a video that showed it from the left side, but mine has the extra piece for the groomer. I can take cover off right side and expose the belt and I'm able to spin either direction.
> 
> 
> 
> Redtenchu's is a Toro Flex. This is what you need:
Click to expand...

 :thumbup: That is the one I use. Another reason why I love my Toro. Backlapping a McLane is a bit more involved.


----------



## ahartzell

Ware said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> 
> On the right side of the mower (from operator position), does anyone know what tool/size will fit to allow you to backlap with drill? @Redtenchu had a video that showed it from the left side, but mine has the extra piece for the groomer. I can take cover off right side and expose the belt and I'm able to spin either direction.
> 
> 
> 
> Redtenchu's is a Toro Flex. This is what you need:
Click to expand...

That will fit into the bottom pulley? PS mine looks awful stripped too


----------



## Ware

ahartzell said:


> That will fit into the bottom pulley? PS mine looks awful stripped too


Yes sir. The bottom one.


----------



## ahartzell

Ware said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> 
> That will fit into the bottom pulley? PS mine looks awful stripped too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes sir. The bottom one.
Click to expand...

Awesome


----------



## TulsaFan

So, I currently have a yard that needs to be smoothed with multiple years of sand applications. My yard is never going to be flat like @Ware's. It has rolling slopes. While waiting for the lawn to smooth, I am going to start researching/shopping for my first greens mower. I think I want a Flex 2120 based on the following information from Toro:

"Cutting height is adjusted on front roller by two vertical screws and held by two locking cap screws. Bench height of cut range is .062"-.297" (1.6-7.5 mm) *with high height of cut kit, range is .297"-1.0"* (7.5-25.4 mm). Effective height of cut may vary depending on turf conditions and bedknife installed."

It seems that the Flex 2120 would allow me to take the yard HOC from 1" down to where ever this sickness afflicts me.

Anyone have a Flex 2120 or any quick thoughts on this plan? (It may be a 1-3 year search for a really good deal on a great conditioned mower.)


----------



## Ware

TulsaFan said:


> ...Anyone have a Flex 2100 or any quick thoughts on this plan? (It may be a 1-2 year search for a really good deal on a great conditioned mower.)


I would start watching these places for something that piques your interest. :thumbup:


----------



## Ware

@TulsaFan no need to wait 1-2 years... here are some 2012's, which have the newer Subaru engine. :thumbup:



> Low Hour, Premium Used Flex 2100 Walkers. 11 and 14 Blade Available. With or Without Groomers. All Mowers Have Transport Wheels, Grass Catchers. Some Units have Light Kits. Fully Serviced, Sharpened, Set Up and Ready to Mow. 600-850 Hours. $2195


----------



## TulsaFan

Those HOC specs were for the 2120 and not the 2100. I edited my original post. I might be waiting/looking longer?


----------



## UGADawg

@TulsaFan just a reminder if you do go with the flex model, the high HOC kit is not compatible with the groomer.


----------



## Redtenchu

UGADawg said:


> @TulsaFan just a reminder if you do go with the flex model, the high HOC kit is not compatible with the groomer.


+1, good catch!


----------



## Colonel K0rn

I wanted to add that I couldn't find the Flex 18 or Flex 21 Service Manual on Toro's website, but I did find a link for the Service Manual at this website. I was able to download it in PDF format as well, with no spam or problems.

https://www.manualslib.com/download/855330/Toro-Greensmaster-Flex-18-04018.html


----------



## ABC123

Has anybody ran a traction slow down kit with a clip kit?

Anybody know places that can sell these kits or know prices?

https://cdn2.toro.com/en/~/media/Files/Toro/Commercial/Greensmaster/Greensmaster-1000-Accessory-Catalog.ashx


----------



## Colonel K0rn

ABC123 said:


> Has anybody ran a traction slow down kit with a clip kit?
> 
> Anybody know places that can sell these kits or know prices?
> 
> https://cdn2.toro.com/en/~/media/Files/Toro/Commercial/Greensmaster/Greensmaster-1000-Accessory-Catalog.ashx


Try calling Toro for a local distributor. I know that Jerry Pate Company services the Southeast, it's probably different in MN.


----------



## Brodgers88

I got a quote of $286.93 for the clip kit from Smith turf and irrigation  I wasn't expecting it to cost more than a new 8 blade reel for the GM1000 which is $215.40 at r&r.


----------



## Ware

Brodgers88 said:


> I got a quote of $286.93 for the clip kit from Smith turf and irrigation  I wasn't expecting it to cost more than a new 8 blade reel for the GM1000 which is $215.40 at r&r.


Yeah OEM Toro accessories are pricey.


----------



## Greendoc

The OEM reels from a Toro distributor are not cheap either. The 8 blade reel is @$400. R&R prices are not bad if they have the part. Clip kit + the 8 blade reel is the way to go if using the GM mowers for lawn height mowing. 11 blades and the stock pulley set are for greens only.


----------



## crussell

Holy Smokes $215 for a clip kit?

Are the R&R reels quality? I may opt for their 8 Blade Reel vs. the Clip Kit...


----------



## Greendoc

You need both if mowing above greens height. The 8 blade reel makes it so the mower can do tee height which is about 0.25". With the clip kit, that goes to around 0.3+. Other thing the clip kit does is increase the torque at the reel for dealing with the thicker, taller grasses at lawn height.


----------



## derek

Does anybody have a copy of Toro General Service Training Book, Reel Mower Basics (part no. 09168SL)

I can't find it online at the toro website anymore.


----------



## ericgautier

derek said:


> Does anybody have a copy of Toro General Service Training Book, Reel Mower Basics (part no. 09168SL)
> 
> I can't find it online at the toro website anymore.


Basic Technical Training <-- 09168SL is listed there.


----------



## derek

Hey now! Thanks @ericgautier! Completely missed that whole section.

Next time I know better to go straight to google rather than trying to navigate the toro website


----------



## TigerinFL

i have a question for those of you that have a groomer on your GM mower. do you use it every time you cut or do you raise it and use it every now and then?


----------



## Ral1121

Have a couple flex 21 I am bidding on and trying to find out more info about them. Maybe I am doing it wrong but they keep coming up as not found. Really just trying to find what year they were made so I know how old they are

#1
04022-280000913

#2
04022-280000126


----------



## TigerinFL

glad she finally made it here. let the games begin


----------



## Ware

TigerinFL said:


> glad she finally made it here. let the games begin


Congrats! :thumbsup:


----------



## Ral1121

TigerinFL said:


> glad she finally made it here. let the games begin


Nice where did you get yours from?


----------



## TigerinFL

Williamson Turf


----------



## Guest

welcome to the club brother!


----------



## AVguy

Reely nice.


----------



## Ral1121

@AVguy

You not enjoying those toro mowers so much that you are still leaving the tru cut p20 as your mower in your profile?


----------



## AVguy

Ral1121 said:


> @AVguy
> 
> You not enjoying those toro mowers so much that you are still leaving the tru cut p20 as your mower in your profile?


Haven't thought about that. I'm terrible about updating profiles. But I probably won't change it until I get a GM1000 working well and commit to it. Thanks for the reminder though.


----------



## MasterMech

TigerinFL said:


> glad she finally made it here. let the games begin


----------



## Ral1121

I did not see this mentioned anywhere and maybe @Ware can add this to the original post.

For those of us with a Subaru engine, you can go to this link for an owners, parts, and service manual for your EX13.

http://www.subarupower.com/products/manuals/

You can also order parts directly from them as well by entering in you model number here.

http://www.subarupower.com/products/parts/?aribrand=SUB

Just thought this info is useful since there was nothing about the Suby


----------



## monkeygrass

I recently replaced the clutch cable on my Greensmaster Flex 21, which had me feeling _extremely_ handy. So much so that I decided it was time to also tinker with the HOC, which I have always left alone since buying the mower. Well that seemed to be even more painless than the cable and I really started believing that I had some mechanical aptitude.

Then it came time to fire it up and.... crickets.

I am not sure how a mower that always ran after two pulls suddenly went bad after a minor repair. I had it tilted back in order to adjust the HOC so possibly that was something new for it. I replaced the spark-plug and cleaned the air filter. No help. It almost seems like the wiring to the on/off switch might have been damaged during my tinkering. Any thoughts?


----------



## monkeygrass

Testing the _interlock module_, as suggested in the Service Manual troubleshooting section addressing a non-starting machine, may have yielded a fix. Specifically, it says to "disconnect red wire (male connector) where it connects to the black wire leading to the ignition coil."

After the disconnection, it started. Reconnection shut it back off. The results call for replacement of the interlock module, per the Manual, but I think I'll just disconnect to start and connect to stop for the time being; unless someone sees a danger to this strategy.

The red wire (shown disconnected) has a black tip, leading to the metal male connector. The black wire has a sleeve at the end.


----------



## g-man

The module is there for a reason. Seems like you are bypassing it. Is the interlock used to maintain a safety function?


----------



## MasterMech

Does the interlock module just control the safety interlocks? Some mowers will shutdown if the main clutch is engaged with the parking brake set. It's entirely possible that you may have accidentally disconnected a switch while replacing the clutch cable.

If your engine also had a low oil shutdown, double-check that the engine oil level is proper.


----------



## Ral1121

Encountered my first problem with my mower. I am not able to adjust my groomer down because the driver nut inside the adjustment knob is stripped or corroded. I tried soaking it in wd40 but it did not work. Anyone know how to take these apart? I can get the knob off but cannot get it apart.

Here is the knob



It is made up of three pieces and part 9.1 is bad. How do you get it apart?





If I can't get it apart I will just order a new complete asm. Any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## Ware

Ral1121 said:


> Encountered my first problem with my mower. I am not able to adjust my groomer down...


I think that's a common problem on those.


----------



## Ral1121

Ware said:


> Ral1121 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Encountered my first problem with my mower. I am not able to adjust my groomer down...
> 
> 
> 
> I think that's a common problem on those.
Click to expand...

I wondering if I should just replace both of them or even any of the other parts.


----------



## AVguy

Has anyone replaced a reel on a GM1000 or similar? I'm trying to get a reel out and can't get the "pulley and drive assembly" to let go. I assume it's threaded normally and not reversed? I hate to jam something into the reel too hard and bend a blade. I did get the bearing lock nut off the RH side, but the LH side won't budge. Any other suggestions?

Here's what the service manual says on page 7-19:
6. Use a 1/2−inch drive in the pulley and drive assem- bly (Fig. 39) to remove the assembly from the reel drive shaft. Also, remove bearing lock nut (Fig. 40) from the reel drive shaft at the same time.


----------



## Ral1121

Ended up just ordering a new adjustment knob because I could not get it apart. People were not kidding when you said these parts were more expensive.


----------



## Guest

Yep parts are expensive Greenmasters are over engineered and built like tanks though. Just changed out the Bedknife on my GM 1000 impressed with the simple design aspects of this Toro.


----------



## Ral1121

A simple adjustment knob was $133. Have to have it though if I want to be able to use the groomer.


----------



## TigerinFL

Ral1121 said:


> A simple adjustment knob was $133. Have to have it though if I want to be able to use the groomer.


where did you end up getting your parts from?


----------



## Ral1121

@TigerinFL 
Through my areas toro golf dealer. Professional turf products lp. They service most of Texas I believe. Had to order it and it was not something they keep in stock regularly so I will not be getting it till mid next week.


----------



## dfw_pilot

I order from Pro Turf as well. Great place.


----------



## TigerinFL

Ral1121 said:


> @TigerinFL
> Through my areas toro golf dealer. Professional turf products lp. They service most of Texas I believe. Had to order it and it was not something they keep in stock regularly so I will not be getting it till mid next week.


thanks!


----------



## Cmeiwes

Do you guys have good results with R&R Products parts and bedknifes or would you recommend going straight to Toro?


----------



## Ware

TigerinFL said:


> Ral1121 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @TigerinFL
> Through my areas toro golf dealer. Professional turf products lp. They service most of Texas I believe. Had to order it and it was not something they keep in stock regularly so I will not be getting it till mid next week.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks!
Click to expand...

The Toro Golf dealers are regional. Yours is probably Jerry Pate.


----------



## AVguy

AVguy said:


> Has anyone replaced a reel on a GM1000 or similar? I'm trying to get a reel out and can't get the "pulley and drive assembly" to let go. I assume it's threaded normally and not reversed? I hate to jam something into the reel too hard and bend a blade. I did get the bearing lock nut off the RH side, but the LH side won't budge. Any other suggestions?
> 
> Here's what the service manual says on page 7-19:
> 6. Use a 1/2−inch drive in the pulley and drive assem- bly (Fig. 39) to remove the assembly from the reel drive shaft. Also, remove bearing lock nut (Fig. 40) from the reel drive shaft at the same time.


Bump. Anyone ever replaced a toro reel?


----------



## Greendoc

Cmeiwes said:


> Do you guys have good results with R&R Products parts and bedknifes or would you recommend going straight to Toro?


If R&R sells it, I have no problems buying and using it. There are a lot of parts and accessories that are Toro Golf dealer only items. Like the groomer adjustment knobs and the Clip Kit. Other than that, the GM 1000 and 1600 are probably one of the least costly reel mowers to maintain. I just picked up a reel and bedknife set for a McLane 20". $750. 8 blade reel and bedknife for a GM is less than $450 from R&R. My point is that as others have said, Toro is built like a tank. The groomer knobs rust and seize because someone washed down the mower and failed to lube all parts after. In Hawaii, it can be even worse because golf courses grow Seashore Paspalum and the water in their system is salt water.


----------



## Greendoc

AVguy said:


> AVguy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone replaced a reel on a GM1000 or similar? I'm trying to get a reel out and can't get the "pulley and drive assembly" to let go. I assume it's threaded normally and not reversed? I hate to jam something into the reel too hard and bend a blade. I did get the bearing lock nut off the RH side, but the LH side won't budge. Any other suggestions?
> 
> Here's what the service manual says on page 7-19:
> 6. Use a 1/2−inch drive in the pulley and drive assem- bly (Fig. 39) to remove the assembly from the reel drive shaft. Also, remove bearing lock nut (Fig. 40) from the reel drive shaft at the same time.
> 
> 
> 
> Bump. Anyone ever replaced a toro reel?
Click to expand...

I stick a piece of wood in the blades so they will not turn. Next time, everything gets anti seize paste when re assembling.


----------



## MasterMech

Cmeiwes said:


> Do you guys have good results with R&R Products parts and bedknifes or would you recommend going straight to Toro?


I like R&Rs stuff. I own a Jacobsen though and R & R can be better at supplying Jake parts than Jacobsen themselves. :lol: You can literally build a Jake walk-mower from R&Rs catalog.


----------



## Guest

Cmeiwes said:


> Do you guys have good results with R&R Products parts and bedknifes or would you recommend going straight to Toro?


Just replaced my old decrepit toro Bedknife with R&R replacement tournament Bedknife. I highly recommend you get the official toro screw tool from R&R as well as the 13 new screws. Lucky for me it fit my impact driver that and some penetrating oil did the trick to get those Bastards out. Don't forget the anti seize stuff on your new screw threads.


----------



## Ware

Nixnix42 said:


> ...I highly recommend you get the official toro screw tool from R&R as well as the 13 new screws. Lucky for me it fit my impact driver that and some penetrating oil did the trick to get those Bastards out. Don't forget the anti seize stuff on your new screw threads.


+1 :thumbsup:


----------



## AVguy

Greendoc said:


> I stick a piece of wood in the blades so they will not turn. Next time, everything gets anti seize paste when re assembling.


I tried wood first. wood broke. I had to stick several metal objects in and spread out the load while not resting on the blade faces. Took a bunch of torque, but I got it free. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll anti-seize it before reassembly.

Side note... I've had a blast taking apart and rebuilding these two GM1000s the last couple days. I feel pretty confident that I'll keep one of these for a long time. I can't imagine anything on it breaking that I'm not willing or able to fix. NOT TRUE OF THE TRU CUT. All the parts are scarce and expensive and a bunch of them are difficult to replace. The toro is a breeze-relatively.

I have it set up fairly well for the first mow tomorrow. Reel is in excellent shape. Bedknife... not so much. did a light facing with a file and I'll backlap it tomorrow before I mow. I have another newish bed knife to replace it with later. Very excited about the mow in the AM.


----------



## Cmeiwes

Nixnix42 said:


> Cmeiwes said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys have good results with R&R Products parts and bedknifes or would you recommend going straight to Toro?
> 
> 
> 
> Just replaced my old decrepit toro Bedknife with R&R replacement tournament Bedknife. I highly recommend you get the official toro screw tool from R&R as well as the 13 new screws. Lucky for me it fit my impact driver that and some penetrating oil did the trick to get those Bastards out. Don't forget the anti seize stuff on your new screw threads.
Click to expand...

I appreciate it! I got the old bedknife off already but I was concerned I wasn't going to get those screws out at first haha


----------



## Cmeiwes

Nixnix42 said:


> Cmeiwes said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys have good results with R&R Products parts and bedknifes or would you recommend going straight to Toro?
> 
> 
> 
> Just replaced my old decrepit toro Bedknife with R&R replacement tournament Bedknife. I highly recommend you get the official toro screw tool from R&R as well as the 13 new screws. Lucky for me it fit my impact driver that and some penetrating oil did the trick to get those Bastards out. Don't forget the anti seize stuff on your new screw threads.
Click to expand...

Did you backlap or grind the new bedknife before you used it? I got a quote on having my reel grinded and the guy said the new bedknife needs to be grinded to make it true? I didn't know if that is true or if it just needs to be backlaped? He said it would be $250 but I could buy a new reel and bedknife from R&R for that so I'm trying to decide what I should do.


----------



## Guest

Toto manual states either grinding or back lapping. The R&R Bedknife I installed Had a good edge and synced up well to the reel so I just back lapped. Next year I plan to replace reel with 8 reel and clip kit as well.


----------



## AVguy

Nixnix42 said:


> Toto manual states either grinding or back lapping. The R&R Bedknife I installed Had a good edge and synced up well to the reel so I just back lapped. Next year I plan to replace reel with 8 reel and clip kit as well.


I assume you have the 11 blade reel. Why are you changing to the 8?


----------



## Ware

AVguy said:


> Nixnix42 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Toto manual states either grinding or back lapping. The R&R Bedknife I installed Had a good edge and synced up well to the reel so I just back lapped. Next year I plan to replace reel with 8 reel and clip kit as well.
> 
> 
> 
> I assume you have the 11 blade reel. Why are you changing to the 8?
Click to expand...

The ideal reel cut is when the clip frequency = height of cut. An 8-blade reel with the clip kit gets closest to that at the HOC's most of us are working with.


----------



## AVguy

Ware said:


> AVguy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nixnix42 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Toto manual states either grinding or back lapping. The R&R Bedknife I installed Had a good edge and synced up well to the reel so I just back lapped. Next year I plan to replace reel with 8 reel and clip kit as well.
> 
> 
> 
> I assume you have the 11 blade reel. Why are you changing to the 8?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The ideal reel cut is when the clip frequency = height of cut. An 8-blade reel with the clip kit gets closest to that at the HOC's most of us are working with.
Click to expand...

Well that's good to know. I'm not telling my grass that. Ware, do you use the ideal clip and reel for your mower and HOC? Think it matters that much?


----------



## Ware

AVguy said:


> Well that's good to know. I'm not telling my grass that. Ware, do you use the ideal clip and reel for your mower and HOC? Think it matters that much?


No, I have an 8-blade reel on my GM1600, but do not have the clip kit installed - so my clip is 0.23". My HOC is 0.40".

I would like to add the clip kit maybe someday, but I'm unsure how much good it would do and how close is close enough when trying to match clip to HOC. Maybe @viva_oldtrafford can share his experience.


----------



## AVguy

The flex21 can change the clip rate by moving sprockets around. And I'm about to have one for sale... just sayin.


----------



## AVguy

So after a few backlapps on the 1000 it seems like lapping is putting a nice edge on the reel blades but notso much for the Bedknife. I've been able to get a good paper cut by facing the knife with a file and then ************. Does this all seem normal and "par for the course"? In case it matters I have a thick Bedknife. Not exactly sure which one yet, but it's substantial.


----------



## ABC123

Facing the knife like using a bedknife buddy? https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=2082


----------



## AVguy

ABC123 said:


> Facing the knife like using a bedknife buddy? https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=2082


No, I haven't bought or built a buddy yet. I take the bedbar out and put it in my vise and run the file across it. I understand all the ways that is wrong but I'm careful to maintain the angle and keep it flat. It works out just fine

What's your opinion about backlapping doing more for the reel that the knife?


----------



## ABC123

Have you used any type of gauge to check the clearance between the knife and reel?

I'd try to be a little more aggressive on the backlap but if it passes the two paper test I'd say it should be okay depending on how picky you'd like to be. Fold a piece of paper in half, should fold one and cut the other. One piece is just the gold standard


----------



## AVguy

ABC123 said:


> Have you used any type of gauge to check the clearance between the knife and reel?
> 
> I'd try to be a little more aggressive on the backlap but if it passes the two paper test I'd say it should be okay depending on how picky you'd like to be. Fold a piece of paper in half, should fold one and cut the other. One piece is just the gold standard


I have not used a guage for reel to Bedknife. I just try to make it cut paper with light contact. I haven't been doubling the paper. I guess I could try that, but I 'reely' want to maintain the 'gold standard' of cutting one piece. Maybe I'm being too critical and maybe my paper is too thin, but I've had it cutting that way and want to keep it that way.


----------



## Ral1121

@AVguy

This is your newly acquired gm1000 correct.

If so I would take them in for a grinding. Reason being is you have no idea how well the reel was upkept and aside from the reel possibly being dull, the reels could be coned meaning one side is worn down more so then the other. Taking it in for grinding would make sure that everything is square as well as give you a brand new sharpened reel that you know can cut well. Maybe your reel is just fine, but for me when there is so much money invested, a little peace of mind goes a long way. I believe it will also prolong the life of the reel. If you decide to get the reel grinded, I would also replace the bedknife while I'm at it along with the screws. A new bedknife on r&r is not all that expensive.


----------



## AVguy

Ral1121 said:


> @AVguy
> 
> This is your newly acquired gm1000 correct.
> 
> If so I would take them in for a grinding. Reason being is you have no idea how well the reel was upkept and aside from the reel possibly being dull, the reels could be coned meaning one side is worn down more so then the other. Taking it in for grinding would make sure that everything is square as well as give you a brand new sharpened reel that you know can cut well. Maybe your reel is just fine, but for me when there is so much money invested, a little peace of mind goes a long way. I believe it will also prolong the life of the reel. If you decide to get the reel grinded, I would also replace the bedknife while I'm at it along with the screws. A new bedknife on r&r is not all that expensive.


Yes this is the 'new to me' 1000, which is performing well and has been an enjoyable upgrade. I just need to figure out why I can't pull it backwards. It's not the bellcrank(clutch).

I agree with all you said about getting a fresh grind and knowing the state of everything. But I'm just gonna keep doing what I am for now. I have a spare newish reel and Bedknife. And this one is in reely good shape as well. The reel has an excellent edge(will cut your finger) and I think it's pretty straight and round. I mainly want to know if everyone agrees that backlapping is doing more for the reel than the knife. It seems like maybe the Bedknife is harder steel than the reel and isn't being ground as much.


----------



## Ral1121

@AVguy

On the hardness of the bedknife, it might be the other way around. I know toro makes two types of bedknifes. One is around $30 and the other is around $70 if I remember correctly. The $70 one has a hardened edge and supposedly lasts a lifetime. Not sure on that though. I believe when you backlap, you are actually helping keeping a good edge on the bedknife.

To me it would make more sense if the bedknife was softer then the reel. Reel is more expent to replace compared to the bedknife.


----------



## AVguy

Ral1121 said:


> @AVguy
> 
> On the hardness of the bedknife, it might be the other way around. I know toro makes two types of bedknifes. One is around $30 and the other is around $70 if I remember correctly. The $70 one has a hardened edge and supposedly lasts a lifetime. Not sure on that though. I believe when you backlap, you are actually helping keeping a good edge on the bedknife.
> 
> To me it would make more sense if the bedknife was softer then the reel. Reel is more expent to replace compared to the bedknife.


That was my assumption before this. I just know this reel is VERY sharp and my knife is not. Will keep researching. Might need to figure out what knife is actually on it. I just checked and can't see a part number. Wonder if it's on top. Next year I may buy a fresh knife and get it all ground and lapped properly. I'm happy for now though.


----------



## Brad Thompson91006

Just purchased a used Toro GM 1000 and it idles great, blades sharpened and bed knife in good shape.
As I engage mower from Neutral to Forward there is a hesitation (a few seconds). The rear drum is not spinning. My guess is that I have belt slippage, tensioner needs adjustment???


----------



## Brad Thompson91006




----------



## AVguy

Brad Thompson91006 said:


>


Looks reely nice. Welcome to the club. I'm sure someone here can help with your problem. There are lots of places where friction or locking could happen. The first thing everyone says to try is disengaging the reel. If it still won't go it's something between the engine and drum drive.


----------



## Trippel24

I am looking at a Toro Greens Master 1000. Looks to be roughly around 2008-2011 model with minimal use. Guy had a putting green in his backyard he used it on only. Does $800 sound like a decent deal? I am replacing an old Mclane that the motor just went out and figured I would upgrade.


----------



## AVguy

Trippel24 said:


> I am looking at a Toro Greens Master 1000. Looks to be roughly around 2008-2011 model with minimal use. Guy had a putting green in his backyard he used it on only. Does $800 sound like a decent deal? I am replacing an old Mclane that the motor just went out and figured I would upgrade.


Looks like it has a groomer. That's a big plus. I'd say $800 is fair but not a great deal. It would have to be in 'reely' good shape.


----------



## Trippel24

Yeah, unfortunately these are not easy to come by second hand around me. The head greens keeper at my golf course just offered me a Mclane for $150 that is less than 5 years old. I think I am just going to do that for the time being. I have a roller for it already, so I can get my money back when I find a better deal.


----------



## Ral1121

@Trippel24 
Why not at least go look at it and if everything checks out offer $500 cash. A greens mower only appeals to a special buyer which porbably does not come around often. Never know how motivated the buyer might be.

I can tell you this much is that a greens mower is such a big step above a mclane. I had no idea until I made the switch not long ago. I wish I would have done it sooner.


----------



## AVguy

Ral1121 said:


> @Trippel24
> Why not at least go look at it and if everything checks out offer $500 cash. A greens mower only appeals to a special buyer which porbably does not come around often. Never know how motivated the buyer might be.
> 
> I can tell you this much is that a greens mower is such a big step above a mclane. I had no idea until I made the switch not long ago. I wish I would have done it sooner.
> [\quote]
> 
> +1 all of that. There probably aren't a bunch of buyers around you for a greens mower. And it is a whole different animal. I started with a trucut(which I still have and use). A greens mower is a new game.


----------



## AVguy

Ral1121 said:


> @Trippel24
> Why not at least go look at it and if everything checks out offer $500 cash. A greens mower only appeals to a special buyer which porbably does not come around often. Never know how motivated the buyer might be.
> 
> I can tell you this much is that a greens mower is such a big step above a mclane. I had no idea until I made the switch not long ago. I wish I would have done it sooner.


+1 all of that. There probably aren't a bunch of buyers around you for a greens mower. And it is a whole different animal. I started with a trucut(which I still have and use). A greens mower is a new game.


----------



## lamontjb

I wanted to ask, what is the difference between the flex and gm1x00 series mowers? Is one better than the other or just different?


----------



## DTCC_Turf

lamontjb said:


> I wanted to ask, what is the difference between the flex and gm1x00 series mowers? Is one better than the other or just different?


 The flex has a 'floating' cutting unit that moves independently from the rest of the machine over contours. The regular greensmasters(800, 1000, 1600) have fixed cutting units that are just part of the overall machine.


----------



## g-man

^ and the max hoc is different.


----------



## Ral1121

On the flex, the max hoc is anywhere between .5-1" depending on the year I believe.

Gm1000 can go to 1.25" I believe. Not 100% sure on that though


----------



## AVguy

Ral1121 said:


> On the flex, the max hoc is anywhere between .5-1" depending on the year I believe.
> 
> Gm1000 can go to 1.25" I believe. Not 100% sure on that though


There's always the "high height of cut" kit. My GM1000 has it. I haven't run it all the way up to measure yet, but I'm currently at 1.125" and that looks about half way up.


----------



## Alan

Ral1121 said:


> On the flex, the max hoc is anywhere between .5-1" depending on the year I believe.
> 
> Gm1000 can go to 1.25" I believe. Not 100% sure on that though


GM1000 website says 25.4mm(1") as max.

https://www.toro.com/en/golf/greensmowers/greensmaster-1000


----------



## Ware

Alan said:


> GM1000 website says 25.4mm(1") as max.
> 
> https://www.toro.com/en/golf/greensmowers/greensmaster-1000


Yes, it is the GM1600 that goes up to 1.25".


----------



## Trippel24

Ral1121 said:


> @Trippel24
> Why not at least go look at it and if everything checks out offer $500 cash. A greens mower only appeals to a special buyer which porbably does not come around often. Never know how motivated the buyer might be.
> 
> I can tell you this much is that a greens mower is such a big step above a mclane. I had no idea until I made the switch not long ago. I wish I would have done it sooner.


Thanks for the advice, I told the guy that I was going to buy a Mclane for $150 and to let me know if/when he would be open to $500. I can sell the Mclane quickly for what I pay for it. It's only been on the market 7 days, so I will check back in a few weeks if it is still available and check interest at $500.


----------



## blorge

AVguy said:


> Ral1121 said:
> 
> 
> 
> On the flex, the max hoc is anywhere between .5-1" depending on the year I believe.
> 
> Gm1000 can go to 1.25" I believe. Not 100% sure on that though
> 
> 
> 
> There's always the "high height of cut" kit. My GM1000 has it. I haven't run it all the way up to measure yet, but I'm currently at 1.125" and that looks about half way up.
Click to expand...

What's the high height of cut kit? I am sure I can get away with 1", but would be nice to be able to go higher if needed.


----------



## AVguy

blorge said:


> AVguy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ral1121 said:
> 
> 
> 
> On the flex, the max hoc is anywhere between .5-1" depending on the year I believe.
> 
> Gm1000 can go to 1.25" I believe. Not 100% sure on that though
> 
> 
> 
> There's always the "high height of cut" kit. My GM1000 has it. I haven't run it all the way up to measure yet, but I'm currently at 1.125" and that looks about half way up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What's the high height of cut kit? I am sure I can get away with 1", but would be nice to be able to go higher if needed.
Click to expand...

https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=26379

I don't know if they make this kit specifically for the GM1000, but it's on mine and works fine. It's basically taller front roller adjusters.


----------



## blorge

AVguy said:


> blorge said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AVguy said:
> 
> 
> 
> There's always the "high height of cut" kit. My GM1000 has it. I haven't run it all the way up to measure yet, but I'm currently at 1.125" and that looks about half way up.
> 
> 
> 
> What's the high height of cut kit? I am sure I can get away with 1", but would be nice to be able to go higher if needed.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=26379
> 
> I don't know if they make this kit specifically for the GM1000, but it's on mine and works fine. It's basically taller front roller adjusters.
Click to expand...

Awesome.... Thanks for the info. Would be worth a try.


----------



## Kdinh25

Help. I can't take off the wheel transport axel on my flex 18 2011 greensmaster


----------



## Guest

Blowtorch and a cheater bar&#128077;


----------



## WLowery

I'm selling my 2005 GM Flex for $1200...moving soon. If anyone knows someone who wants it let me know. I'm willing to negotiate. I live in San Antonio. 7049688146-cell.


----------



## Stro3579

dfw_pilot said:


> I wanted the transport axles off my Toro GM1000 so I could get closer to objects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a spare GM1000 that I have and I had so much trouble getting them off the first one, I dreaded doing it again on this one. It turns out, I was fortunate this time. They came off without much trouble.
> 
> Toro puts thread locker on the axles to keep them in very tight. The best way I've found to remove them when they have thread locker applied, is to heat up the axle with a blow torch for three minutes. This gets it hot enough to loosen the thread locker and allow it to break free. My first GM1000 required 3-4 minutes of heat from a Berzomatic, locking the inner axle with a 1 inch crescent, and then hopping on the crescent on the transport axle. It was a nightmare up until that point, but the heat made it work nicely.
> 
> Today with this one, I put the 1 inch crescent on the inner axle, put another crescent on the transport axle, stood on it, and: _*pop!*_
> 
> If you want to take yours off, first try the easy two-crescent method. If that doesn't work, buy a torch, take your belts off the pulley's and heat it up.


Is one of the axles reverse threaded?


----------



## Spammage

@WLowery you may have more luck if you post in the "Marketplace" section of the Members Only area.


----------



## dfw_pilot

Stro3579 said:


> Is one of the axles reverse threaded?


Yes


----------



## Kdinh25

Nixnix42 said:


> Blowtorch and a cheater bar👍


Do you know if the flex is also reserve threaded. Also I don't see any where to anchor the other wrench down beside the hexagon that the axel is attached to


----------



## Stro3579

Does anyone know the hoc of the tournament, thin, and thick bedknife from R&R for GM1600? Also how do you determine the actual high your mower is cutting after bench height set? The Grass height because of weight of unit?


----------



## DTCC_Turf

http://www.turf-tec.com/hg-prismlit.html


----------



## Ware

Stro3579 said:


> Does anyone know the hoc of the tournament, thin, and thick bedknife from R&R for GM1600? Also how do you determine the actual high your mower is cutting after bench height set? The Grass height because of weight of unit?


Here are the HOC ranges for the OEM bedknives. R&R provides the "Replaces Toro:" part numbers in their descriptions.

A prism gauge is used to accurately measure actual HOC, but they are pricey. For me, knowing actual vs bench HOC just doesn't provide enough value to justify the cost.


----------



## Stro3579

Ware said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the hoc of the tournament, thin, and thick bedknife from R&R for GM1600? Also how do you determine the actual high your mower is cutting after bench height set? The Grass height because of weight of unit?
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the HOC ranges for the OEM bedknives. R&R provides the "Replaces Toro:" part numbers in their descriptions.
> 
> A prism gauge is used to accurately measure actual HOC, but they are pricey. For me, knowing actual vs bench HOC just doesn't provide enough value to justify the cost.
Click to expand...

Thx


----------



## Stro3579

dfw_pilot said:


> Glad you got them off! I hope it wasn't too trying to do so. Keep them in a drawer for resale or if you ever come across a set of wheels.
> 
> Sorry I wasn't clear earlier. For other readers, yes, the axle inside the mower, between the frame and the drum has a flat section to get a 1" wrench on it. The wrench will then lock the axle when it rests against the frame of the mower. Then you can really crank on the transport axle with another ratcheting wrench, pipe wrench, or 10' cheater bar.


Was the right side reversed thread?


----------



## 95mmrenegade

On the Greensmaster 1600, the rear drive drums are driven with a belt and a pulley. Does the pulley have square woodruff key to keep it in place?

Trying to figure out if I could machine the inside of the hub on the gear to replace it with a one-way roller bearing.


----------



## Ware

95mmrenegade said:


> On the Greensmaster 1600, the rear drive drums are driven with a belt and a pulley. Does the pulley have square woodruff key to keep it in place?
> 
> Trying to figure out if I could machine the inside of the hub on the gear to replace it with a one-way roller bearing.


I'm curious why you would need to do that.


----------



## monkeygrass

I am attempting to remove the cutting unit from a Greensmaster Flex. For the first step, the Toro instructions say to simply, _"Slide the telescoping coupler off the cutting unit hex shaft."_ Should that piece move with ease (mine do not) or are there other steps necessary to make it slide?

If spring/roll pins need to be removed, is there a certain sized punch that is called for?

Thanks for the help!


----------



## DTCC_Turf

It's just on there tight. You may need to persuade it with some force.


----------



## Ware




----------



## 95mmrenegade

Ware said:


> 95mmrenegade said:
> 
> 
> 
> On the Greensmaster 1600, the rear drive drums are driven with a belt and a pulley. Does the pulley have square woodruff key to keep it in place?
> 
> Trying to figure out if I could machine the inside of the hub on the gear to replace it with a one-way roller bearing.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm curious why you would need to do that.
Click to expand...

I have some extremely tight areas in my backyard and using my trucut, I can easily back it up to start a full stripe. The toro since it's all locked is not that easy to back it up to the landscape edging. Having a one way bearing in both sides(probably need to machine the upper pulley)will allow the drive drum to disengage and easily roll backwards. I have a slight hill so dragging the unit with basically a locked drum is tough.


----------



## AVguy

95mmrenegade said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 95mmrenegade said:
> 
> 
> 
> On the Greensmaster 1600, the rear drive drums are driven with a belt and a pulley. Does the pulley have square woodruff key to keep it in place?
> 
> Trying to figure out if I could machine the inside of the hub on the gear to replace it with a one-way roller bearing.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm curious why you would need to do that.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have some extremely tight areas in my backyard and using my trucut, I can easily back it up to start a full stripe. The toro since it's all locked is not that easy to back it up to the landscape edging. Having a one way bearing in both sides(probably need to machine the upper pulley)will allow the drive drum to disengage and easily roll backwards. I have a slight hill so dragging the unit with basically a locked drum is tough.
Click to expand...

Seems like it would be easier to make a cable lever that moves the existing reel engage lever. I bet you could repurpose the parking brake lever that nobody uses.

Let me know if you work that out. I have the same issue. Would love to be able to back up easily.


----------



## Cjames1603

Hey guys. So I bought a flex 21 this weekend and I of course came home for a scalp. Enjoyed it. Im gonna get a grind on the reel and was also gonna get a new knife while I was doing that. Any help on a good site to buy one would be appreciated. A scalp picture is attached. I had no idea that my trucut was cutting so high.


----------



## Cjames1603

So apparently as a new member I didn't have sense enough to see page 1 here where ward put the link for all things toro. So my next question is what thickness would be my best one for a yard that will be sanded next year and taken low. Probably .50 I know my sand level will ruin it anyway next year but just the best all around knife to buy. Thanks.


----------



## SimonR

I've been doing some winter maintenance on my GM and trying to sort a fuel issue that the mower has always had. Getting parts in Aus is difficult and expensive. I've managed to find a complete carb unit for the Kawa. Downside is that it cost $360AUD. Which is just ridiculous. Other carb parts are basically all from US and with postage.

I can buy a brand new B&S for under $300 or a predator style Chonda for under $200.

My question is, has anyone completed an engine swap on a GM, or know what the shaft diameter is on the OE Kawa?

TIA


----------



## Greendoc

3/4. What is the engine model. Is it a FE 120G? That is a 1:2 gear reduced engine. RPM at the shaft is 1800.


----------



## SimonR

Thanks Doc,

Yes it has the reduction gearbox on there. I'll weigh all this up, but might just stick the Predator style Chonda in there.

Only issue I can see is the high filler neck on the Kawa tank so it doesn't leak when you tip it back.


----------



## Greendoc

The gear reduction is what gives the GMs the power to get through even non green height grass. Idle speed of a non gear reduced engine is 1000 RPM. Full throttle on a gear reduced is 1800 at the shaft.


----------



## crzipilot

Been looking for a gm1000 or 1600. Found this but looks like it's been "customized"? Anyone seen a setup like this? I'm guess the threads is where the HOC adjustment is normally made? It's a distance away so don't want to waste the time and drive if I don't have to


----------



## crzipilot

Here's a closer pic.


----------



## SimonR

Greendoc said:


> The gear reduction is what gives the GMs the power to get through even non green height grass. Idle speed of a non gear reduced engine is 1000 RPM. Full throttle on a gear reduced is 1800 at the shaft.


Thanks Doc. I was under the assumption that the 2:1 speed reduction was a bolt-on chain driven unit that I could just utilise on the replacement engine.

After some research it's obviously part of the engine as per your advice. There are some engines that will fit that are not that expensive with the 2:1 speed reducer that will be suitable.

Thanks for the advice on the 2:1 G-spec


----------



## TheTurfTamer

Hey Guys,

I have a 2016 Flex 2120. It came with 2 complete groomer attachment sets. ( taken apart ) All parts accounted for. Does anyone use one?. It has the stiff brush with it. I am thinking about using it. Pros ? Cons?

Thanks,


----------



## Ware

Aawickham78 said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> I have a 2016 Flex 2120. It came with 2 complete groomer attachment sets. ( taken apart ) All parts accounted for. Does anyone use one?. It has the stiff brush with it. I am thinking about using it. Pros ? Cons?
> 
> Thanks,


Nice! That's a late year model! :thumbup:


----------



## Greendoc

crzipilot said:


> Been looking for a gm1000 or 1600. Found this but looks like it's been "customized"? Anyone seen a setup like this? I'm guess the threads is where the HOC adjustment is normally made? It's a distance away so don't want to waste the time and drive if I don't have to


That "customization" is so the mower can be set at heights above 1/2" A stock GM 1000 with the hand grenade adjustment knobs will not mow higher than 0.45" If everything works smoothly, you are good.


----------



## crzipilot

Yup, figured it out......think I need to clean a pilot valve. Belts need to be replaced, cracked kinda bad. Should the belts have tension on them or are they a little loose at rest?

Bed knife needs to be adjusted, reel back lapped. but it works for the most part. Think the pilot valve is normal culprit of it wanting to bog down if throttle is anything less than 50%


----------



## Cjames1603

Ok guys. Tell me if I'm nuts. My dad (who can do and loosen anything and doesn't quit until he does) and I just attempted to break the bolts that hold the transport wheels on my flex 21. I know resale and I know I won't ever get transport wheels for mine because I like the sound of fingernails on a chalk board. Tell me why I should not cut them off. I have to get closer to my fence. I have to get closer to my flower bed borders. So tell me if you know of a problem other than resell. Other issues I'll encounter as far as using the mower.


----------



## Ware

Cjames1603 said:


> Ok guys. Tell me if I'm nuts. My dad (who can do and loosen anything and doesn't quit until he does) and I just attempted to break the bolts that hold the transport wheels on my flex 21. I know resale and I know I won't ever get transport wheels for mine because I like the sound of fingernails on a chalk board. Tell me why I should not cut them off. I have to get closer to my fence. I have to get closer to my flower bed borders. So tell me if you know of a problem other than resell. Other issues I'll encounter as far as using the mower.


I cut the ones on my old GM1000. :thumbup:


----------



## Cjames1603

Yep. I figured as much. FIRE UP THE SAW HONEYYYYYYYYYYY WE GOT SIME CUTTIN TO DO


----------



## Ware

Cjames1603 said:


> Yep. I figured as much. FIRE UP THE SAW HONEYYYYYYYYYYY WE GOT SIME CUTTIN TO DO


I'm not sure how the Flex is, but I cut mine almost flush with the side covers - enough to get them out of my way, but there was still some room to get a wrench on them if someone wanted to try harder than I did.


----------



## Cjames1603

Yeah it's set up the same way. I would still have probably 2 inches of wrench grab left. I just don't like the racing stripe on my fence when I get too close. What did you cut yours with??


----------



## Ware

Cjames1603 said:


> What did you cut yours with??


Hacksaw. :bandit:


----------



## Stro3579

Having some issues with my GM1600. Every since I remove the axles I have notice when I do paper cut test on reel and bedknife. The friction will be accurate with the mower tilted back on handle. When I lower mower to cutting position. The reel doesn't have the same tension. When tilted back I adjust it to have a slight drag. When in cut position its completely free. Anyone else had this issue? What could it be? Dont recall this issue with the axles on.


----------



## Cjames1603

Got it. Now I'm gonna try and figure out these lights. Anyone know if I can power these lights on the flex 21 via maybe an external battery? Will I use them. I doubt it, but everyone's first question when they see it is "do those lights work?"


----------



## Stro3579

Stro3579 said:


> Having some issues with my GM1600. Every since I remove the axles I have notice when I do paper cut test on reel and bedknife. The friction will be accurate with the mower tilted back on handle. When I lower mower to cutting position. The reel doesn't have the same tension. When tilted back I adjust it to have a slight drag. When in cut position its completely free. Anyone else had this issue? What could it be? Dont recall this issue with the axles on.


No one has had this issue?


----------



## TC2

Stro3579 said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Having some issues with my GM1600. Every since I remove the axles I have notice when I do paper cut test on reel and bedknife. The friction will be accurate with the mower tilted back on handle. When I lower mower to cutting position. The reel doesn't have the same tension. When tilted back I adjust it to have a slight drag. When in cut position its completely free. Anyone else had this issue? What could it be? Dont recall this issue with the axles on.
> 
> 
> 
> No one has had this issue?
Click to expand...

Yes. Just two days ago in fact, but the opposite of what you describe. Tension on the reel was increased with the mower upright compared to lying back. I reasoned that the altered position was changing the tension on the belts. It seemed to cut without any horrible grinding or anything!

The only way to be sure would be to check whether the paper test was still cutting correctly in the upright position or disconnect the belt.


----------



## Stro3579

TC2 said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Having some issues with my GM1600. Every since I remove the axles I have notice when I do paper cut test on reel and bedknife. The friction will be accurate with the mower tilted back on handle. When I lower mower to cutting position. The reel doesn't have the same tension. When tilted back I adjust it to have a slight drag. When in cut position its completely free. Anyone else had this issue? What could it be? Dont recall this issue with the axles on.
> 
> 
> 
> No one has had this issue?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes. Just two days ago in fact, but the opposite of what you describe. Tension on the reel was increased with the mower upright compared to lying back. I reasoned that the altered position was changing the tension on the belts. It seemed to cut without any horrible grinding or anything!
> 
> The only way to be sure would be to check whether the paper test was still cutting correctly in the upright position or disconnect the belt.
Click to expand...

How could I check it in the upright position? I wonder why this occurred after removal of axles?


----------



## Cjames1603

Could you get it on a bench with an overhang?


----------



## TC2

Stro3579 said:


> How could I check it in the upright position? I wonder why this occurred after removal of axles?


I was thinking car ramps. Don't know why it appeared after taking off the axels.


----------



## Stro3579

TC2 said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> How could I check it in the upright position? I wonder why this occurred after removal of axles?
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking car ramps. Don't know why it appeared after taking off the axels.
Click to expand...

Truthfully I just noticed it. I dont believe it was like that before removing axles because I was getting really clean cuts. Since I removed the axles, I began getting fungus and grass blades being ripped more so than cut clean. So I finally discovered that my final adjustments (while mower laying back on handle) is not what I get when in cutting position.
Strange!!


----------



## rickta24

How does one identify what year model a greensmaster is? I assume by the model number and serial number, but haven't found a serial number lookup feature on toro's site or anywhere else.


----------



## AVguy

rickta24 said:


> How does one identify what year model a greensmaster is? I assume by the model number and serial number, but haven't found a serial number lookup feature on toro's site or anywhere else.


I has to do with the first two digits of the serial number. I can't remember exactly how it works, but it's something like 25xxxx is 2005.


----------



## rickta24

Thanks @AVguy . You are correct.


----------



## Mrsamman

Do these extra rollers at the end of the main roller do much? They end up over in my neighbors yard and rough up the grass, I think I might take them off.

Scott


----------



## Ware

Mrsamman said:


> Do these extra rollers at the end of the main roller do much? They end up over in my neighbors yard and rough up the grass, I think I might take them off.
> 
> Scott


Yeah, you could probably just take them off. This is how Toro describes their use:


----------



## Mrsamman

> Yeah, you could probably just take them off. This is how Toro describes their use:


Thanks 
My yard is unlevel but not undulating or soft, so I will take them off..


----------



## trickd122

Hello all I have recently acquired a greensmaster 1000. Got it for $50!!! The issues I'm having are 1. The rollers will lock up refusing at times to go forward or backward. 2. How do I service the transmission casing located on the LHS of the operator? 3. Is it possible to modify a part and increase the max HOC by 1/4 inch or so? 3. I live in central florida and would like to find a place I can get a relief grind on the reel.

Thanks again.


----------



## Cjames1603

As far as the relief grind goes. I found a guy at a local
Golf course. He grinded it and greased all the bearings for 50
Bucks. That is a great deal. Ask around on that. The HOC is higher on the GM than it is on my flex. Seve guys on here have GM mowers that can advise if there is a HOC kit available for it like there is for the flex. Great deal though and I hope u get it up and running!!!


----------



## zeus201

Appears my $100 Greensmaster 1000 finally had a failure tonight after all summer of use. Looks like the part #11, clutch-slider jaw failed. Opened up the area and found 1 tooth broken off and couple more bent.

Kind of a inopportune time to have a failure, especially with the extended holiday weekend. Grass is growing like crazy with the N blitz, favorable weather and lots of rain. Fingers crossed I can find the part at local dealer and get it here ASAP.


----------



## g-man

@zeus201 do a good check of other areas of the mower. That part looks like it could fail if there is a lot of force (eg. stucked reel).


----------



## zeus201

g-man said:


> @zeus201 do a good check of other areas of the mower. That part looks like it could fail if there is a lot of force (eg. stucked reel).


been thinking about it, feel like this may have been self-inflicted. probably had the reel to bedknife a bit tight which lead to the failure. live and learn i guess lol


----------



## AVguy

Cjames1603 said:


> As far as the relief grind goes. I found a guy at a local
> Golf course. He grinded it and greased all the bearings for 50
> Bucks. That is a great deal. Ask around on that. The HOC is higher on the GM than it is on my flex. Seve guys on here have GM mowers that can advise if there is a HOC kit available for it like there is for the flex. Great deal though and I hope u get it up and running!!!


My 1000 has the high HOC on it. Can get up to about 1.75", but the cut quality suffers the higher you go. The aggressive bedbar might help, but I'm just staying below 1.5". I keep it around .5" until late summer and let it grow out for fall.

I had an issue with the same part on the reel drive with mine. Luckily I have a parts mower and was able to do a swap. Also swapped the reel engage lever becaus it wasn't staying locked in. I suggest you find a parts mower if you can stored it. I've grabbed several parts off mine arady.


----------



## zeus201

Jeez...the 2 parts I need are:

$141.37 for 1. 
$301.27 for 1.

IDK what to do as it could use a new reel, bedknife and all the random bearings and such need to freshen it up. At a crossroads on what to do with this thing.


----------



## Cjames1603

I think
Like mentioned above I would search the area for a parts mower. I think u could get into one for less
Than those parts. Are the new parts best. Sure. But we are all trying to keep up very e pensive and specialized pieces of equipment on a budget.


----------



## ABC123

zeus201 said:


> Jeez...the 2 parts I need are:
> 
> $141.37 for 1.
> $301.27 for 1.
> 
> IDK what to do as it could use a new reel, bedknife and all the random bearings and such need to freshen it up. At a crossroads on what to do with this thing.


Yup. It's all part of the process, being that these mowers cost about 9k new it's not the worst price. The cal trimmer is much more expensive to replace a reel though.


----------



## rickta24

Can the handle on a 1600 be removed for transport? Wondering if I could get in the trunk of my car.


----------



## zeus201

ABC123 said:


> Yup. It's all part of the process, being that these mowers cost about 9k new it's not the worst price. The cal trimmer is much more expensive to replace a reel though.


Before I called today, I was thinking it's be a couple hundered bucks...boy was I well off!



Cjames1603 said:


> I think
> Like mentioned above I would search the area for a parts mower. I think u could get into one for less
> Than those parts. Are the new parts best. Sure. But we are all trying to keep up very e pensive and specialized pieces of equipment on a budget.


Very true...trying to be a lawn baller on a budget! Wife was shocked when I told her the price breakdown.

I "reely" do enjoy mowing with these types of mowers, but in the meantime, I'll go back to rotary mowing until I find a parts mower or buy the wife something nice and then slip in the replacement parts order.


----------



## g-man

Like I told carigs, a pair of Jimmy Choo will make her very happy.


----------



## trickd122

I would like to adjust my reel to bedknife. I understand the process however how to I ensure that both sides are even. Example do I back it off to an point and count the number of turns in. I suspect this GM1000 was never adjusted properly.

Thanks


----------



## TC2

trickd122 said:


> I would like to adjust my reel to bedknife. I understand the process however how to I ensure that both sides are even. Example do I back it off to an point and count the number of turns in. I suspect this GM1000 was never adjusted properly.
> 
> Thanks


I've got a similar issue. It looks to me like something isn't straight when looking at one side of the reel compared to the other and I want to work out whether one side has worn more than the other. How do people determine whether the bedknife is equally adjusted horizontal to the ground?


----------



## adgattoni

trickd122 said:


> I would like to adjust my reel to bedknife. I understand the process however how to I ensure that both sides are even. Example do I back it off to an point and count the number of turns in. I suspect this GM1000 was never adjusted properly.
> 
> Thanks


I would get a set of feeler gauges to check clearances. A 0.001 feeler should pass between the reel and the bedknife across the length of the reel, but a 0.002 feeler should not. Each click gets you 0.0007 closer, so you should have some flexibility achieving this clearance unless the reel is out of round.


----------



## trickd122

Can anyone tell me how to service this part example what fluids and it seems to not have anything inside at the moment...


----------



## Mrsamman

I don't think it is suppose to have any fluids in it. It has a belt in it. With a high HOC I don't think it will do anything anyway. Mine doesn't.

Scott


----------



## Ware

+1, there is just a belt under that cover - no fluid.


----------



## Cjames1603

If anyone has a used or not being used slotted front roller for a flex 21 I'm looking for one. They are outrageously high new.


----------



## ABC123

Cjames1603 said:


> If anyone has a used or not being used slotted front roller for a flex 21 I'm looking for one. They are outrageously high new.


@Reelrollers might have one?


----------



## Cjames1603

@Reelrollers ??


----------



## William

Cjames1603 said:


> If anyone has a used or not being used slotted front roller for a flex 21 I'm looking for one. They are outrageously high new.


eBay or R&R would be my choices.


----------



## AVguy

trickd122 said:


> Can anyone tell me how to service this part example what fluids and it seems to not have anything inside at the moment...


You don't need that. Just remove the whole assembly and mail it to me. Just kiddding, but at some point I'd like to try using a groomer. Has anyone else used one and seen results?


----------



## trickd122

At the HOC I use it's ineffective. Looks to me like it only works at very low HOCs.


----------



## TheTurfTamer

trickd122 said:


> At the HOC I use it's ineffective. Looks to me like it only works at very low HOCs.


Groomer kits are for HOC of 1/4 inch and below only.


----------



## TheTurfTamer

Cjames1603 said:


> If anyone has a used or not being used slotted front roller for a flex 21 I'm looking for one. They are outrageously high new.


R&R products has the wide spaced grooved roller for $97.00 1" 1/8 spacing , the full rebuild bearing kit ( if needed ) for $25.00 and a new hardened shaft for $45.00

https://www.rrproducts.com/aspx/store/SchematicDetail.aspx?s=TORO^GREENSMASTER_FLEX_2120^CUTTING_UNIT^ROLLERS

That's pretty cheap. Yes the narrow grooved roller is expensive. $250.00


----------



## Stro3579

Ware said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the hoc of the tournament, thin, and thick bedknife from R&R for GM1600? Also how do you determine the actual high your mower is cutting after bench height set? The Grass height because of weight of unit?
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the HOC ranges for the OEM bedknives. R&R provides the "Replaces Toro:" part numbers in their descriptions.
> 
> A prism gauge is used to accurately measure actual HOC, but they are pricey. For me, knowing actual vs bench HOC just doesn't provide enough value to justify the cost.
Click to expand...

I purchase the tournament bedknife and the thick. Cant seem to find the hoc for the thick anywhere. R&R part # doesn't give toro replacement number for part#R150467
Having issues with uneven cuts and I believe I may have my HOC set at wrong height.


----------



## William

trickd122 said:


> At the HOC I use it's ineffective. Looks to me like it only works at very low HOCs.


It can be adjusted for any height. The benefits of a groomer at a higher cut, you'll have to decide. You can loosen or tighten the lock nuts to adjust Height of groomer.


----------



## Reelrollers

Cjames1603 said:


> If anyone has a used or not being used slotted front roller for a flex 21 I'm looking for one. They are outrageously high new.


We only have the smooth roller, not grooved. Sorry


----------



## trickd122

William said:


> trickd122 said:
> 
> 
> 
> At the HOC I use it's ineffective. Looks to me like it only works at very low HOCs.
> 
> 
> 
> It can be adjusted for any height. The benefits of a groomer at a higher cut, you'll have to decide. You can loosen or tighten the lock nuts to adjust Height of groomer.
Click to expand...

I guess my issue is then at the stock max HOC I cant seem to get the groomer lower than that HOC. DOES ANYONE KNOW how to accomplish this?


----------



## Ware

trickd122 said:


> I guess my issue is then at the stock max HOC I cant seem to get the groomer lower than that HOC. DOES ANYONE KNOW how to accomplish this?


Are your "quick-up levers" in the down position?


----------



## trickd122

Ware said:


> trickd122 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I guess my issue is then at the stock max HOC I cant seem to get the groomer lower than that HOC. DOES ANYONE KNOW how to accomplish this?
> 
> 
> 
> Are your "quick-up levers" in the down position?
Click to expand...


----------



## trickd122

@ware, besides purchasing the HOC kit, is there a way to add shims or other means to achieve an additional 1/4 or more on an inch over st@Ware


----------



## Ware

trickd122 said:


> ware, besides purchasing the HOC kit, is there a way to add shims or other means to achieve an additional 1/4 or more on an inch...


I'm not sure - I've never needed extra HOC adjustment, so it's not something I've put any thought into.


----------



## AVguy

Ware said:


> trickd122 said:
> 
> 
> 
> ware, besides purchasing the HOC kit, is there a way to add shims or other means to achieve an additional 1/4 or more on an inch...
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not sure - I've never needed extra HOC adjustment, so it's not something I've put any thought into.
Click to expand...

 Larger diameter on the front roller would give you a little bit. I've gone between a smaller smooth roller to a larger grooved roller and seen a difference.


----------



## ABC123

Careful maxing them out. It will go to 1 1/4 but the mounts will get brittle and crack. So try to keep it under 1 unless you get the high hoc for like $95? From r&r


----------



## adgattoni

Anyone had luck buying a single high height of cut bracket for a flex 21? I recently procured one and for some reason it appears to have one high and one regular bracket. I adjusted each side up and down for a good 20 minutes before realizing... Lol.

I can get it to ~0.5. It'd be nice to go a tad higher at times, but I'm not certain if it's worth the $100 when I could be buying a clip kit and/or light kit.


----------



## Stro3579

Does anyone know how tocheck and adjust the Drum parallel to reel on a gm1600? Having a bad quality of cut issue.


----------



## Cjames1603

My flex it having a very faint but very high pitched squeak when rolling under power. Any ideas?


----------



## Stro3579

Cjames1603 said:


> My flex it having a very faint but very high pitched squeak when rolling under power. Any ideas?


Bedknife to reel could be to close.


----------



## rickta24

What is the preferred bedknife for the 1600 with our type of home application with .50" to .75" HOC?


----------



## William

trickd122 said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> trickd122 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I guess my issue is then at the stock max HOC I cant seem to get the groomer lower than that HOC. DOES ANYONE KNOW how to accomplish this?
> 
> 
> 
> Are your "quick-up levers" in the down position?
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

So the nuts on the threaded bolt just below the bracket, loosen those evenly on both sides, then raise the "knob" and turn it to lower it. Rinse and repeat. Keep in mind you want to do this with the "pins" facing towards the front, so when you transport, aka pins back, the groomer does not touch.

Thankfully I have a groomer HOC gauge from accuproducts so I was able to lower it 0.02 inches below the HOC.


----------



## adgattoni

rickta24 said:


> What is the preferred bedknife for the 1600 with our type of home application with .50" to .75" HOC?


I would go with the high cut or fairway bedknife. See pg 48 of this Toro Reel Mower Basics document. You could go with the low cut but there's less material on them so it will wear out sooner.

Also - to the broader thread topic: FWIW to any Flex 21 owners out there, I just installed the high HOC brackets from R&R and my max bench HOC went up to 1 inch on the dot. Pretty solid purchase IMO.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

Going to change the gearbox transmission fluid and wondering about the fill location. My gearbox has the retro fit breather kit on it and the fill plug is almost rounded off. Could I fill via the breather on top?


----------



## AVguy

Fistertondeluxe said:


> Going to change the gearbox transmission fluid and wondering about the fill location. My gearbox has the retro fit breather kit on it and the fill plug is almost rounded off. Could I fill via the breather on top?


Is there a reason to change it? My transmission fluid rule is "if it runs don't touch the trans fluid".


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@AVguy just changing it to change it since I am not sure when it was last serviced.

On another note. I did order the HIgh HOC kit but now realize I will need to source the counterweight that was removed as well as any bolts that may have been replaced. So I am now contemplating just keeping the groomer on and going lower or dive down the parts rabbit hole.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

Ok so I received half of my high HOC kit today. I cannot temper who asked but yes you can by 1 of the high HOC bars. The part number is the same and has an A at the end of it. Found that out when I called and asked it it was supposed to only have one bracket. Anyway I was hoping to get everything installed tonight but I also left off a reel lock but that replaced the groomer pulley. So I placed an order for one of those as well. So now it's friday until it's able to cut higher than .5 but that's ok.

Slowly getting her cleaned up


----------



## adgattoni

Fistertondeluxe said:


> Ok so I received half of my high HOC kit today. I cannot temper who asked but yes you can by 1 of the high HOC bars. The part number is the same and has an A at the end of it. Found that out when I called and asked it it was supposed to only have one bracket. Anyway I was hoping to get everything installed tonight but I also left off a reel lock but that replaced the groomer pulley. So I placed an order for one of those as well. So now it's friday until it's able to cut higher than .5 but that's ok.
> 
> Slowly getting her cleaned up


That was me. I ended up just ordering the full kit, and I'm glad I did because neither of the brackets on my Flex 21 were actually high HOC brackets. They were two different sized brackets though.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@adgattoni That is what I ordered but their parts picker only put one in. when I called them they verified that I should have received 2 brackets and then shipped the other one out. That should arrive Wednesday.

@jimbeckel I used some spray on truck bed liner for my kickstand. Mine was in worse shape that yours. So far it is holding up very well. Look forward to seeing your being brought back to life.


----------



## William

I like the idea of bed liner for the stand. Anybody think of bed liner on the drum for some grip?


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@William the bed liner I used for my stand wasn't as grippy as the pro stuff. My worry using it on the drum is it tearing up any grass if it is wet. The drive on my mclane left burnout patches if there was any moisture on the grass


----------



## TravisH06

I got my 2014 gm1600 yesterday from prairie turf. They drained the fuel before they shipped it. I fueled it up but i couldn't get it started. I decided to drain the carb to make sure it had fuel. It looked like oil that came out at first. Maybe old fuel. Greg was cool and helped me over the phone. He said they took apart the carb and cleaned it all out. I'm not sure that happened. I have a couple questions that maybe someone could help me out with 
The Subaru (ex13) motor at full throttle is really quiet. The drive is fairly slow compared to my trucut. Should i adjust the throttle up a bit?
They replaced the bed knife and backlapped. Do they coat or paint the reel and bed knife after? Thanks


----------



## walk1355

Fistertondeluxe said:


> Going to change the gearbox transmission fluid and wondering about the fill location. My gearbox has the retro fit breather kit on it and the fill plug is almost rounded off. Could I fill via the breather on top?


@Fistertondeluxe how much total do you have into that Toro Flex?


----------



## Reel Low Dad

walk1355 said:


> Fistertondeluxe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Going to change the gearbox transmission fluid and wondering about the fill location. My gearbox has the retro fit breather kit on it and the fill plug is almost rounded off. Could I fill via the breather on top?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Fistertondeluxe how much total do you have into that Toro Flex?
Click to expand...

Maybe just under $600 total. That's the mower, shipping, new bedknife and High HOC kit, plus any special tools needed. If I would have realized everything I needed it would be closer to 5 due to R&R shipping costs.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

With the next Weeks auction approaching I figure it is about time I document what was needed to remove the groomer from my Flex and install the High HOC brackets. This should help save you some shipping costs. Once a groomer is installed there are a few items that are removed. The manual states to keep them if you ever remove the groomer. Chances are you wont have these parts. Listed below is what you will need on a Flex 21.

1. Counter-weight Part# TTP104-0534-03 -- I bought this from Smith Turf and that is their part number. Cost was $43.80
2. Reel Locknut Part R107-3227 -- Bought from R&R cost is $8.20
3. Plow Bolts (qty 2) Part R150647 Bought from R&R cost is $2.80 for both
4. Flanged nuts (qty 2) Part R14M7296 Bought from R&R cost is $0.80 for both.
5. 10mm x 1.5 tapered nuts (qty 2) Got these at Lowes, Not Listed on R&R but they probably have them. Item # 423474 Model # 884520 Cost is $2.80
6. High HOC kit. R106-4699 from R&R Cost is $ 90.95
Optional Items: You may want to get R48-7610 (qty 2) these are the lock bolts that go into the HOC brakets and secure the roller. I reused mine.

The Reel locknut is a 34mm socket. So chance are you will want to pick one of those up as well.


----------



## N LA Hacker

Is there a toro dealer on the board? I just picked up a 2008 gm1000 at a golf course auction and it need some parts that aren't typical, for instance the jackwagons managed to break the handle bar at the bracket and then tried to weld it and broke it again.

I was just checking before I put together my parts list and sent it for a quote to the dealer in Euless, TX.


----------



## N LA Hacker

DISREGARD: I FOUND THE SERVICE MANUAL.

Also, is there a wiring diagram for these things? I think the 2 yellow wires coming from the coil are for lights, but I've also got a red wire in the same area that isn't hooked up.

unused red wire is for hour meter.


----------



## AVguy

N LA Hacker said:


> DISREGARD: I FOUND THE SERVICE MANUAL.
> 
> Also, is there a wiring diagram for these things? I think the 2 yellow wires coming from the coil are for lights, but I've also got a red wire in the same area that isn't hooked up.
> 
> unused red wire is for hour meter.


Yes, yellow wires are the light coil. You need a regulator/convert to use them since it's AC voltage. When you get your parts list together post it. I may have some used parts for way cheaper if you're intersted. I have a parts mower. I know it has a good handle and brackets.


----------



## N LA Hacker

AVguy said:


> N LA Hacker said:
> 
> 
> 
> DISREGARD: I FOUND THE SERVICE MANUAL.
> 
> Also, is there a wiring diagram for these things? I think the 2 yellow wires coming from the coil are for lights, but I've also got a red wire in the same area that isn't hooked up.
> 
> unused red wire is for hour meter.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, yellow wires are the light coil. You need a regulator/convert to use them since it's AC voltage. When you get your parts list together post it. I may have some used parts for way cheaper if you're intersted. I have a parts mower. I know it has a good handle and brackets.
Click to expand...

That would be great!!! I'll get together a list of things that are glaring at me. 
@jimbeckel Where did you get the belt covers for you restoration?


----------



## jimbeckel

I ordered my belt covers from jerry pate turf out of pensacola FL. Toro parts aren't cheap. Chris from General Turf Equipment has donor mowers he probably would sell you parts from.


----------



## N LA Hacker

AVguy said:


> N LA Hacker said:
> 
> 
> 
> DISREGARD: I FOUND THE SERVICE MANUAL.
> 
> Also, is there a wiring diagram for these things? I think the 2 yellow wires coming from the coil are for lights, but I've also got a red wire in the same area that isn't hooked up.
> 
> unused red wire is for hour meter.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, yellow wires are the light coil. You need a regulator/convert to use them since it's AC voltage. When you get your parts list together post it. I may have some used parts for way cheaper if you're intersted. I have a parts mower. I know it has a good handle and brackets.
Click to expand...

@AVguy other than belt covers it looks like this the parts list (minus the clutch cable) that isnt readily available. You got anything to help out? So apparently the goons tried to weld the pot metal clutch cable onto the lever and got slag on the threads. Hence the twisted off threads on the clutch lever. I have the best luck... :roll:


----------



## Jdaniel611

Have you tired to call toro customer service and ask if they sold there old stock parts off to someone?


----------



## Trippel24

dfw_pilot said:


> I wanted the transport axles off my Toro GM1000 so I could get closer to objects.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a spare GM1000 that I have and I had so much trouble getting them off the first one, I dreaded doing it again on this one. It turns out, I was fortunate this time. They came off without much trouble.
> 
> Toro puts thread locker on the axles to keep them in very tight. The best way I've found to remove them when they have thread locker applied, is to heat up the axle with a blow torch for three minutes. This gets it hot enough to loosen the thread locker and allow it to break free. My first GM1000 required 3-4 minutes of heat from a Berzomatic, locking the inner axle with a 1 inch crescent, and then hopping on the crescent on the transport axle. It was a nightmare up until that point, but the heat made it work nicely.
> 
> Today with this one, I put the 1 inch crescent on the inner axle, put another crescent on the transport axle, stood on it, and: _*pop!*_
> 
> If you want to take yours off, first try the easy two-crescent method. If that doesn't work, buy a torch, take your belts off the pulley's and heat it up.


On this side of the mower in the pick, did you turn the transport axel towards the front or rear of the mower? I have problems with left loosey righty tighty at times.


----------



## dfw_pilot

One side is standard threaded and one side is reverse threaded.


----------



## Cjames1603

Mine was so set in and rusted that I just got out the hacksaw.


----------



## AZChemist

Cjames1603 said:


> Got it. Now I'm gonna try and figure out these lights. Anyone know if I can power these lights on the flex 21 via maybe an external battery? Will I use them. I doubt it, but everyone's first question when they see it is "do those lights work?"


Yes lights on mowers work very well. No need for an external power source.


----------



## Brad Thompson91006

My Toro GM 1000 is equipped with 2 factory lights. The lenses are cloudy and the output is weak.
I want to replace the lights with 2 led 4-inch, 18 watt off-road lights. Is there enough juice from the light coil to handle this?
Any other concerns or compatibility that I am missing?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K828HK6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2YQ38YBRAD8AU&psc=1


----------



## Brad Thompson91006




----------



## Ware

Brad Thompson91006 said:


> My Toro GM 1000 is equipped with 2 factory lights. The lenses are cloudy and the output is weak.
> I want to replace the lights with 2 led 4-inch, 18 watt off-road lights. Is there enough juice from the light coil to handle this?
> Any other concerns or compatibility that I am missing?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07K828HK6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2YQ38YBRAD8AU&psc=1


The coil output is AC - you will need a rectifier circuit to convert it to DC to run LED lights. Here is an example.


----------



## Brad Thompson91006

Ware - thanks for the link. I was hoping that the stock wiring was DC.


----------



## Cjames1603

I think I have a coil issue. Just blows bulbs. Doesn't work. Why I was asking about external power options.


----------



## jimbeckel

I wanted to let the Toro owners know that I recently found out that my local Sunbelt Dealer who services Toro commercial equipment like Dingos with all the attachments can get Toro turf parts and I was assured prices would be cheaper then other places. I have not had to order anything since that discussion with them but I thought I would pass this information along.


----------



## Cjames1603

Thanks for the info


----------



## eschneider5

Hey guys, I am having some issues with my '07 1600. When I engage the drive lever I have to really push the mower to get it going. It used to pull me and now I have to give it some forward pressure to keep it going. This is with or without the reel engaged, so not a reel adjustment. Is there a belt that I can tighten, or is there a transmission that I can't service myself? It was working fine a few months ago, and I did not use it for a while (heart surgery/sternal precautions). Any advice on where to look would be helpful, like I said, this machine used to drag me behind it, now it doesn't want to get moving on it's own.
Thank you,
Erik


----------



## gintasr

Check drum drive belt.


----------



## Ware

eschneider5 said:


> Hey guys, I am having some issues with my '07 1600. When I engage the drive lever I have to really push the mower to get it going. It used to pull me and now I have to give it some forward pressure to keep it going. This is with or without the reel engaged, so not a reel adjustment. Is there a belt that I can tighten, or is there a transmission that I can't service myself? It was working fine a few months ago, and I did not use it for a while (heart surgery/sternal precautions). Any advice on where to look would be helpful, like I said, this machine used to drag me behind it, now it doesn't want to get moving on it's own.
> Thank you,
> Erik


I would work through Chapter 4 of the Service Manual and see if you can find anything that doesn't look right (belts stretched, out of adjustment, etc.)

https://media.toro.com/servicemanuals/96889sl.pdf


----------



## Oceanus

Inspection Checklist?

new to greensmowers and considering a local 1600 BUT not very knowledgeable and wondering if there is _buying guide_ or _inspection checklist_ document

Thanks!


----------



## Ware

Oceanus said:


> Inspection Checklist?
> 
> new to greensmowers and considering a local 1600 BUT not very knowledgeable and wondering if there is _buying guide_ or _inspection checklist_ document
> 
> Thanks!


This is a pretty common question - TLF should collaboratively come up with one. I'll start a new topic for it.


----------



## Oceanus

Ware said:


> Oceanus said:
> 
> 
> 
> Inspection Checklist?
> 
> new to greensmowers and considering a local 1600 BUT not very knowledgeable and wondering if there is _buying guide_ or _inspection checklist_ document
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> This is a pretty common question - TLF should collaboratively come up with one. I'll start a new topic for it.
Click to expand...

I hoped/feared I had missed a FAQ ... Thanks for all the knowledge that has been posted/shared.


----------



## cnet24

So I have been casually searching for a GM1600 with transport wheels, groomer, and grass catcher. I'm being told from a couple of dealers that a groomer on this model is hard to come by. Is that true? If so, would R&R be a good resource to get a new one if I had to move forward without one?

Additional question- will a GM be able to handle this slope? This is an older picture from my front yard and many of the trees have been removed and replaced with turf. I originally purchased a Tru Cut, but the ease of maintenance on the Toro has me leaning to a GM1600.


----------



## Greendoc

True on groomers fitted to 1600s. Most 1600s were used as golf collar, tee and approach mowers. Groomers are most often used on greens. A groomer kit is a dealer only item. RR does not sell groomer kits for Toro golf mowers. A GM 1600 should be able to handle the slope. It is mild compared to what I deal with.


----------



## cnet24

Thanks @Greendoc


----------



## Guest

Been a long time lurker of this forum but finally had to post a reply. Thanks to @Ware and @wardconnor I purchased a Greensmaster 1600 and WOW what a difference compared to my Cal Trimmer. The Trimmer is a great mower but the 1600 is beyond my expectations. Did a scalp sub .5 today the Greensmaster did not have a hiccup. Unfortunately could not say that about the Trimmer. Thanks to you all for the information you provide day in day out. So thankful for this forum.


----------



## Ware

Welcome to TLF @pelebkf! Glad you're here!

Post some pics of that machine!


----------



## Guest

Lighting is very poor in the garage tonight but here are few pictures. One of my Trimmer too lol. I removed the parking brake in its entirety today ( there was a problem with it) Also removed the badge as well. I am a minimalist I guess.

I hope to do a restoration one day and repaint it mat black.

Now if I can get my Bermuda green I can enjoy it more often.


----------



## wardconnor

So happy to see this. I tell all who are looking to get a reel mower to get a Toro. They are the best. They can be a little difficult to get a hold of but they are built like tanks and go and go. It is a great machine. Nice to see another homeowner with a professional machine kicking some major butt.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

wardconnor said:


> So happy to see this. I tell all who are looking to get a reel mower to get a Toro. They are the best. They can be a little difficult to get a hold of but they are built like tanks and go and go. It is a great machine. Nice to see another homeowner with a professional machine kicking some major butt.


Couldnt agree more on Toro all the way. Those engines dont stop.

The golf course supers I talk to wont use anything else.

Plenty of inventory around here anyways. Maybe it's different elsewhere.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

One piece of advise, get a spare front and rear roller. If one goes out, you'll be able to pop in the spare while you fix the other. I ran into this problem last fall. I couldnt fix it in the time I had between mows.


----------



## reidgarner

I've got quite a slope in my front yard so I painted the drum on my Flex 21 with flex seal. Scored the drum with 220 grit sandpaper, cleaned with mineral spirits. 3 coats, 24 hours apart. Built up a nice thick coating. We shall see this weekend how much it improves traction.


----------



## XLT_66

Gents, I got ahead of myself when replacing the V belts and loosened the top right pulley. No biggie...did the belt swap but now can't recall what orientation the belt keeper should be in.

In the drive engaged position, where on a clock should the grey keeper be positioned?


----------



## N LA Hacker

Between 3 and 4 o'clock. Any lower and it will rub the lower pulley. Any higher, I think it rubs the cover.


----------



## bermuda_dude

Question, I have a flex 2100. Is it normal to have to adjust reel to bed knife after each mow? Also, by the time I adjust my bedknife so it will cut evenly all the way across, the reel is hard to turn manually. In some videos, I've seen mechanics adjust the bedknife and the reel spins more freely. Do I need to replace some bearings? Thank you in advance for any info that would be helpful.


----------



## TC2

No, you shouldn't have to adjust RTB after each mow and it shouldn't feel very tight to cut paper. Try backing off the bedknife so the reel has room to move and check if it's not slightly loose or off center. It could very well be a bearing issue, unless there's something wrong with the bedknife. A picture of the reel would give people an idea of how worn it is, which would also suggest how much wear the bearings have had.


----------



## Kahodges

Hey guys and gals I'm new to the greens mower world but have done a ton of research and settled on the greensmaster 1000 as my next purchase. I'm buying from a place in NC which is a bit more than a deal on Craigslist but comes with the peace of mind that the mower is fully serviced etc. I like to be an informed buyer so is there any known issues with these or any additions that I should ask the be thrown in?


----------



## cwrx82

Kahodges said:


> Hey guys and gals I'm new to the greens mower world but have done a ton of research and settled on the greensmaster 1000 as my next purchase. I'm buying from a place in NC which is a bit more than a deal on Craigslist but comes with the peace of mind that the mower is fully serviced etc. I like to be an informed buyer so is there any known issues with these or any additions that I should ask the be thrown in?


See if they'll grind the reel and not just backlap it. Other than that, if it's serviced then it should be good to go. It never hurts to change the oil when you get it, just to know for sure it's been done. When you receive it, remove the covers and check the condition of the belts and replace if needed.


----------



## SGrabs33

@cwrx82 can I ask where your buying from in NC?


----------



## cwrx82

SGrabs33 said:


> @cwrx82 can I ask where your buying from in NC?


I'm not the buyer, was just responding to a post.


----------



## Kahodges

cwrx82 said:


> Kahodges said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys and gals I'm new to the greens mower world but have done a ton of research and settled on the greensmaster 1000 as my next purchase. I'm buying from a place in NC which is a bit more than a deal on Craigslist but comes with the peace of mind that the mower is fully serviced etc. I like to be an informed buyer so is there any known issues with these or any additions that I should ask the be thrown in?
> 
> 
> 
> See if they'll grind the reel and not just backlap it. Other than that, if it's serviced then it should be good to go. It never hurts to change the oil when you get it, just to know for sure it's been done. When you receive it, remove the covers and check the condition of the belts and replace if needed.
Click to expand...

The guy actually said it will come with a new bed knife and reel. He apparently refurbished them and has a ton. I found him from various links on this forum. Super nice guy.


----------



## Kahodges

SGrabs33 said:


> @cwrx82 can I ask where your buying from in NC?


I'm the buyer and here is a link to where I plan to get one https://www.turfnet.com/classifieds/item/33040-toro-greensmaster-1000-w-11-blade-reel/


----------



## SGrabs33

Kahodges said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> cwrx82 can I ask where your buying from in NC?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm the buyer and here is a link to where I plan to get one https://www.turfnet.com/classifieds/item/33040-toro-greensmaster-1000-w-11-blade-reel/
Click to expand...

Ah, nice. I saw those on there too. They look like they are in pretty good condition :thumbup:


----------



## Kahodges

SGrabs33 said:


> Kahodges said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> cwrx82 can I ask where your buying from in NC?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm the buyer and here is a link to where I plan to get one https://www.turfnet.com/classifieds/item/33040-toro-greensmaster-1000-w-11-blade-reel/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ah, nice. I saw those on there too. They look like they are in pretty good condition :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Yeah they are totally refurbished but he is cutting me a local deal also so to me is just makes sense. Sure it's still more than I can find on on Craigslist but there is value is knowing when I take it home it's 100% ready to use for the season.


----------



## TC2

I'm currently in the process of replacing my reel. I'm working on the right side bearing case. I've got the small seal, wavy seal, and bearing in, but I'm having problems getting the thin retaining ring in that goes on top of the bearing and fits into the grove of the housing. Do you use a special tool to compress it enough to fit in? I could use a pair of needle pliers but I'm worried about it bending and how I'll get it off the pliers once inside!


----------



## cwrx82

TC2 said:


> I'm currently in the process of replacing my reel. I'm working on the right side bearing case. I've got the small seal, wavy seal, and bearing in, but I'm having problems getting the thin retaining ring in that goes on top of the bearing and fits into the grove of the housing. Do you use a special tool to compress it enough to fit in? I could use a pair of needle pliers but I'm worried about it bending and how I'll get it off the pliers once inside!


If I'm thinking of the correct one, it should be able to slip past itself at one point of the ring. I put it in the groove of the housing and pressed it all round until it slipped itself and slid into the groove.


----------



## TC2

cwrx82 said:


> If I'm thinking of the correct one, it should be able to slip past itself at one point of the ring. I put it in the groove of the housing and pressed it all round until it slipped itself and slid into the groove.


Yes, I might be able to sort of spiral it into the gap. I'll give it a go.

Additional question. The service manual only applies a wavy washer and retaining ring to the right side bearing. The left only has the small seal, bearing and large seal. However, after disassembling my left side bearing, it also had the wave washer (which was not the correct size) and ring. I take it whoever replaced the bearing in the left side just didn't follow instructions?


----------



## cwrx82

TC2 said:


> cwrx82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If I'm thinking of the correct one, it should be able to slip past itself at one point of the ring. I put it in the groove of the housing and pressed it all round until it slipped itself and slid into the groove.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I might be able to sort of spiral it into the gap. I'll give it a go.
> 
> Additional question. The service manual only applies a wavy washer and retaining ring to the right side bearing. The left only has the small seal, bearing and large seal. However, after disassembling my left side bearing, it also had the wave washer (which was not the correct size) and ring. I take it whoever replaced the bearing in the left side just didn't follow instructions?
Click to expand...

Mine only had the wavy washer on one side and I only replaced it on that one side.


----------



## reidgarner

Looking for some advice...check out the video below. Getting good power to the left drum driveshaft and the reel pulley, but only weak/intermittent power to the right drum. Before I drain and tear open the gearbox, anybody have experience with this issue? I'm guessing it's inside the gearbox. Thanks.

https://youtu.be/s2Za****wkg


----------



## Ware

reidgarner said:


> Looking for some advice...check out the video below. Getting good power to the left drum driveshaft and the reel pulley, but only weak/intermittent power to the right drum. Before I drain and tear open the gearbox, anybody have experience with this issue? I'm guessing it's inside the gearbox. Thanks.


What does it do when it is on the ground? They have a differential, so I would expect that to happen to some extent with the drum lifted off the ground - i.e. power being transferred to the side with the least resistance.


----------



## reidgarner

Ware said:


> reidgarner said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking for some advice...check out the video below. Getting good power to the left drum driveshaft and the reel pulley, but only weak/intermittent power to the right drum. Before I drain and tear open the gearbox, anybody have experience with this issue? I'm guessing it's inside the gearbox. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What does it do when it is on the ground? They have a differential, so I would expect that to happen to some extent with the drum lifted off the ground - i.e. power being transferred to the side with the least resistance.
Click to expand...

You're right. It's better on the ground. I just got concerned because the reel was slipping too when I was cutting. But I'm pretty sure that's because I'm taking my 1/2" Bermuda to .25. It's crazy how thick the clippings are...they were getting choked up in between the reel and groomer. Think I'm good. Thanks!! :thumbup:


----------



## UGADawg

So I broke my Greensmaster Flex :x . I was stupid and cut too close to a tree and bent the bedknife and broke the reel bearing housing on the right side of the cutting unit.





I purchased another bearing housing from Pro Turf, but I'm having an issue getting the bushing out of the broken part of the bearing housing that connects to the bedbar and the bushings that are on the plow bolts that go through the side plate and bearing housing. They are a tad rusty.




Any advice on how to get the rest of broken bearing housing off? Torch/heat gun or continue to douse it in PB blaster?


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@UGADawg does your have a groomer? Looks like it from that silver cover. I had to cut those off when I took my groomer off. It was a pain


----------



## TC2

You might want to just buy a new bushing, otherwise, try balancing the edges of the broken piece on two pieces of wood to raise off the ground (or better, drill a hole of suitable size), find something small enough to place on top of the bushing to spread the force, like a screwdriver handle, and smack it with a hammer. I'd suggest a breaker bar for tough nuts, but a 1/2" drive impact driver might do the job.


----------



## UGADawg

@Reel Low Dad Yes I do have a groomer. What did you use to cut it off? Dremel?

@TC2 Thats probably what I will end up doing. I dont see that bushing surviving the removal process.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@UGADawg sure did. Cut a slit in it and then split it apart.


----------



## gocmensinan

Hi everyone. I was checking my Flex21 that I got during the off season to make sure everything was in working order. Upon closer inspection I noticed the reel wasn't engaging and barely spinning with the throttle wide open. The mower moves fine in transport mode without the reel engaged. I proceeded to tighten the tension on the reel clutch cable and was able to get the reel spinning, however it didn't engage right away. It would slowly build up speed. I tightened the tension again and then the thread between the two nuts snapped (See picture). I called my local Toro dealer and the have a replacement on its way. Any one else experience this and am I potentially missing anything when it comes to have the reel engage properly? Also, are there any guides as to how to replace the cable? Thanks for all the insight.


----------



## TC2

@gocmensinan I'd check the belts driving the reel and the engage/disengage reel lever (or whatever the flex uses to do that). Sounds like something could be slipping.

The service manual can be downloaded. Just have a search.


----------



## Kahodges

Hey guys I have finally found a greensmaster 1000 reel mower and was planning on pulling the trigger on it in the next day or so. Only thing stopping me is my reservation about my front yard. Below is a picture of the slope. How do you guys think the roller will hold on the slope? I just want to be sure before making the plunge. The greensmaster is quite the jump from the fiskars reel mower I'm using now...


----------



## g-man

You will need to do a perimeter pass on the top and near the stairs just to avoid hitting the concrete/bricks. I'm able to go up an incline like that on the 220E. I don't think it could go up wet, but on those days go across.


----------



## Kahodges

g-man said:


> You will need to do a perimeter pass on the top and near the stairs just to avoid hitting the concrete/bricks. I'm able to go up an incline like that on the 220E. I don't think it could go up wet, but on those days go across.


Thank you very much for the reply. I've been cutting it side to side just due to ease. Cutting up the hill with the non self propelled mower was no fun. I just wanted to make sure I didn't invest in such an expensive mower only to find I made a big mistake and cannot cut it uphill nor sideways due to the slipping drum.


----------



## Desing

So I picked up a used GM1000 with the Kawasaki fe120 engine last week. It had not been run in a couple years and had been sitting in storage. I was able to get it running by doing the standard fuel flush, oil change, spark plug, carb clean.

However, when I put everything back together, I noticed I had a small leak from the "nipple" on the bottom of the carb. The brass screw/o-ring is stripped and does not go in all the way so I am assuming this could be the cause.

Can anyone tell me the function of this port? It is my understanding that this is a drain port for the carb..is this correct? Has anyone experienced this leak?

Image is from fe350 carb replacement I found on amazon for reference..


----------



## cwrx82

Desing said:


> So I picked up a used GM1000 with the Kawasaki fe120 engine last week. It had not been run in a couple years and had been sitting in storage. I was able to get it running by doing the standard fuel flush, oil change, spark plug, carb clean.
> 
> However, when I put everything back together, I noticed I had a small leak from the "nipple" on the bottom of the carb. The brass screw/o-ring is stripped and does not go in all the way so I am assuming this could be the cause.
> 
> Can anyone tell me the function of this port? It is my understanding that this is a drain port for the carb..is this correct? Has anyone experienced this leak?
> 
> Image is from fe350 carb replacement I found on amazon for reference..


You're correct, it is a drain plug.


----------



## N LA Hacker

Yep, bowl drain.


----------



## AVguy

Desing said:


> So I picked up a used GM1000 with the Kawasaki fe120 engine last week. It had not been run in a couple years and had been sitting in storage. I was able to get it running by doing the standard fuel flush, oil change, spark plug, carb clean.
> 
> However, when I put everything back together, I noticed I had a small leak from the "nipple" on the bottom of the carb. The brass screw/o-ring is stripped and does not go in all the way so I am assuming this could be the cause.
> 
> Can anyone tell me the function of this port? It is my understanding that this is a drain port for the carb..is this correct? Has anyone experienced this leak?
> 
> Image is from fe350 carb replacement I found on amazon for reference..


I think that's the drain for the carb bowl.


----------



## FTZoysiaNewbie

Hello Ladies and Gents. I just want to say Thank You for all your hard work here! I been lurking around these past few months trying to learn how to deal with my poor lawn. Long story short I been using a Honda HRR on my 2 years old Zorro Zoysia cutting it @ 3-5". I am ready to take the dive into beautiful putting greens that everyone here have. I found a newer model Toro Flex 1800 with groomer/11 blade due to tight spot of 38" on the side yard between my neighors AC and my. From what I read here everyone wants the fixed heads due to the restrictions on Flex 1800/2100 HOC. So I been searching through Toro's service/install manuals. If anyone can verify my findings by utilizing Toro's Universal Groomer Drive Kit along with 4 Shims each side of back roller that we can achieve .75" cut with working groomer? My question is there a 3" grooved roller that will fit front and back of these cutting units?


----------



## MasterMech

Kahodges said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> You will need to do a perimeter pass on the top and near the stairs just to avoid hitting the concrete/bricks. I'm able to go up an incline like that on the 220E. I don't think it could go up wet, but on those days go across.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you very much for the reply. I've been cutting it side to side just due to ease. Cutting up the hill with the non self propelled mower was no fun. I just wanted to make sure I didn't invest in such an expensive mower only to find I made a big mistake and cannot cut it uphill nor sideways due to the slipping drum.
Click to expand...

I do my front yard with my Jacobsen GK526a. No problem, even if it's damp. Soaked, it will slip but I'll either cut across or just give it a shove up the hill, just enough to keep it from breaking traction.

Did you end up buying a mower from Chris up at General Turf?


----------



## SGrabs33

Reposting here.



NeVs said:


> I'm going to look at the toro flex this afternoon.
> 
> Any advice on what to look for other than the condition of the reel and bed knife?


----------



## NeVs

SGrabs33 said:


> Reposting here.
> 
> 
> 
> NeVs said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to look at the toro flex this afternoon.
> 
> Any advice on what to look for other than the condition of the reel and bed knife?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the repost.

Unit isn't in the best condition but isnt terrible and I have not seen the reel yet. The guy says the reel is freshly sharpened and the whole unit was serviced and running well.


----------



## crzipilot

Anybody have any tips on changing oil on GM1000? Without making a mess?

Checking the oil other day think I'm getting gas leaking in. Closed it up and didn't want to deal with it. So have a few days to see what I have to do


----------



## N LA Hacker

A simple siphon pump should work. Should be able to get one at Wal-Mart for about $10 or so.


----------



## smokinglegges

gocmensinan said:


> Hi everyone. I was checking my Flex21 that I got during the off season to make sure everything was in working order. Upon closer inspection I noticed the reel wasn't engaging and barely spinning with the throttle wide open. The mower moves fine in transport mode without the reel engaged. I proceeded to tighten the tension on the reel clutch cable and was able to get the reel spinning, however it didn't engage right away. It would slowly build up speed. I tightened the tension again and then the thread between the two nuts snapped (See picture). I called my local Toro dealer and the have a replacement on its way. Any one else experience this and am I potentially missing anything when it comes to have the reel engage properly? Also, are there any guides as to how to replace the cable? Thanks for all the insight.


Be sure lever is fully engage, pushed all the way forward and locked into place. Partially pushed forward it will not engage.Also, the reel maybe too tight against the bed knife.


----------



## AZPilot

crzipilot said:


> Anybody have any tips on changing oil on GM1000? Without making a mess?
> 
> Checking the oil other day think I'm getting gas leaking in. Closed it up and didn't want to deal with it. So have a few days to see what I have to do


Yep at min 10:00 @silvercymbal uses an oil pump from West Marine to vacuum out the oil.
It's Awesome, trust me oil changes take min now :thumbup:


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

Has anyone replaced the bearings in the rear roller on a flex 21? I noticed mine probably need to be replaced soon.


----------



## Kicker

thesouthernreelmower said:


> Has anyone replaced the bearings in the rear roller on a flex 21? I noticed mine probably need to be replaced soon.


just curious, what indication do you have that makes you think they need to be replaced?


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

When you spin the roller the bearings feel "rough" or "gritty" would be the way I would describe it. Not smooth and free rolling.


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

Kicker said:


> thesouthernreelmower said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone replaced the bearings in the rear roller on a flex 21? I noticed mine probably need to be replaced soon.
> 
> 
> 
> just curious, what indication do you have that makes you think they need to be replaced?
Click to expand...

The front roller spins smooth as silk, the rear roller is very rough spinning. No play in it though, which is usually a sign of bad bearings. Could just have trash, sand etc in it and needs to be cleaned and greased. But new bearings aren't expensive, it more about taking the roller apart to replace them is the issue for me


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

What setting do you run the rear roller on, on the flex 21? There is a high and low setting


----------



## NeVs

Just picked up my first reel, an old flex 21, I havent paid the guy yet as he wanted me to make sure there were no issues first. The engine smokes quite a bit at start up and as it warms up the smoke decreases and almost vanishes but I've only ran it for about 3 minutes on low.

He said he added a fuel additive that causes the white smoke. Said he uses the same stuff on all his machines in winter and sees the same thing.

Is this legit or total bs and I am I looking at a cylinder issue?

Other than checking the oil level, anything else I should look for?


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

Check the compression


----------



## adgattoni

NeVs said:


> Just picked up my first reel, an old flex 21, I havent paid the guy yet as he wanted me to make sure there were no issues first. The engine smokes quite a bit at start up and as it warms up the smoke decreases and almost vanishes but I've only ran it for about 3 minutes on low.
> 
> He said he added a fuel additive that causes the white smoke. Said he uses the same stuff on all his machines in winter and sees the same thing.
> 
> Is this legit or total bs and I am I looking at a cylinder issue?
> 
> Other than checking the oil level, anything else I should look for?


Is he using Seafoam as his fuel additive? I think seafoam could produce some smoke as it cleans out the innards.


----------



## NeVs

thesouthernreelmower said:


> Check the compression


Any guides on how to do that?


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

You need a gauge and to know what the compression range should be. I'm sure there is a YouTube video on it


----------



## CO_Native

I had been looking for a Greensmaster for sometime. I initially joined this forum to expand my search. I had a posting on Craigslist asking for sellers or leads on sellers. I received a message from a gentleman in New Mexico who told me he found a guy who has multiple 2015 1600s with incredibly low hours. Apparently these machines are in amazing condition. I am just wondering what I should expect to pay for a machine like this? Any advice would be appreciated.


----------



## SGrabs33

Few carb questions please. Kawasaki FE120.

Any chance the RED is reverse threaded. It didn't want to come out for me tonight. I didn't force it and have it sitting in carb cleaner just in case.

Any tips on getting the GREEN out to clean? Is it necessary to remove to clean? It has a little lip on it which doesn't really allow it to turn.


----------



## Mrsamman

I wouldnt remove any of those parts. Just sit in carburetor clean and blow out with spray can carb cleaner.

Scott


----------



## NeVs

I'm planning on mowing my zoysia between 3/4" and 1-1/4".

Greensmaster flex 21. Should I go with the 8 blade (107-7634) or 11 blade (107-7635)? Currently has an 11 blade. Would there be any other parts needed if I switched to 8 blade?


----------



## cwrx82

NeVs said:


> I'm planning on mowing my zoysia between 3/4" and 1-1/4".
> 
> Greensmaster flex 21. Should I go with the 8 blade (107-7634) or 11 blade (107-7635)? Currently has an 11 blade. Would there be any other parts needed if I switched to 8 blade?


Do you have the high HOC kit on the flex?


----------



## NeVs

cwrx82 said:


> NeVs said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning on mowing my zoysia between 3/4" and 1-1/4".
> 
> Greensmaster flex 21. Should I go with the 8 blade (107-7634) or 11 blade (107-7635)? Currently has an 11 blade. Would there be any other parts needed if I switched to 8 blade?
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have the high HOC kit on the flex?
Click to expand...

Not yet, about to order it


----------



## cwrx82

NeVs said:


> cwrx82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NeVs said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning on mowing my zoysia between 3/4" and 1-1/4".
> 
> Greensmaster flex 21. Should I go with the 8 blade (107-7634) or 11 blade (107-7635)? Currently has an 11 blade. Would there be any other parts needed if I switched to 8 blade?
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have the high HOC kit on the flex?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not yet, about to order it
Click to expand...

Gotcha. If you're going higher, less blades will give a better cut, but it probably won't be too noticeable on a residential lawn compared to a golf green. I'd just try the 11-blade and see how it cuts before ordering another reel.

If you switch to the 8-blade reel then it'd be wise to replace the bearings and whatever else you'll have access to when swapping reels.


----------



## SGrabs33

NeVs said:


> I'm planning on mowing my zoysia between 3/4" and 1-1/4".
> 
> Greensmaster flex 21. Should I go with the 8 blade (107-7634) or 11 blade (107-7635)? Currently has an 11 blade. Would there be any other parts needed if I switched to 8 blade?


Good comparison from @wardconnor of the different blades here. I would go 8 if your getting a new one to cut 3/4" and above.


----------



## NeVs

SGrabs33 said:


> NeVs said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm planning on mowing my zoysia between 3/4" and 1-1/4".
> 
> Greensmaster flex 21. Should I go with the 8 blade (107-7634) or 11 blade (107-7635)? Currently has an 11 blade. Would there be any other parts needed if I switched to 8 blade?
> 
> 
> 
> Good comparison from @wardconnor of the different blades here. I would go 8 if your getting a new one to cut 3/4" and above.
Click to expand...

His 1000 results look identical to mine. Lots of stragglers.

Will definitely go with the 8 blade. Are the reels easy to swap, any videos? Or should I just bring it in?

Is the 1600 a 5" or 7" reel?


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@NeVs I am getting ready to put a new reel on my flex and will be doing a video on it. Should be very similar to a 1000/1600.


----------



## SGrabs33

Reel Low Dad said:


> @NeVs I am getting ready to put a new reel on my flex and will be doing a video on it. Should be very similar to a 1000/1600.


Looking forward to it!you changing to 8 or 11? Currently have a 14?


----------



## NeVs

Reel Low Dad said:


> @NeVs I am getting ready to put a new reel on my flex and will be doing a video on it. Should be very similar to a 1000/1600.


I actually have a flex 21, so that is perfect! I was just curious if the 1600 had a 7" reel.

When are you planning to change your reel?


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@SGrabs33 Currently have the 11, changing it to the 8. @NeVs hopefully in the next week or two. Still cleaning up the groomer and getting that ready to be reinstalled. Want to do it all at once, plus there is a bolt or 2 that will be easier to get out with the reel not installed.


----------



## SGrabs33

Reel Low Dad said:


> SGrabs33 Currently have the 11, changing it to the 8. NeVs hopefully in the next week or two. Still cleaning up the groomer and getting that ready to be reinstalled. Want to do it all at once, plus there is a bolt or 2 that will be easier to get out with the reel not installed.


Looking forward to seeing the video!


----------



## XLT_66

Can anyone provide a P/N for the part circled here? I have a large cast aluminum cover in this area that I think is a remnant from a groomer that could have been previously installed or could be installed. At this point, however, it is just something else to catch/hit.


----------



## NeVs

XLT_66 said:


> Can anyone provide a P/N for the part circled here? I have a large cast aluminum cover in this area that I think is a remnant from a groomer that could have been previously installed or could be installed. At this point, however, it is just something else to catch/hit.


Grab the model and serial number off your cutting unit.

Will be on the back top of the frame


----------



## XLT_66

It's an 04052-80741. I'm looking to purchase the part that's circled above to decrease the overall width of my unit, which has the large cast aluminum cover. Need to check bolt pattern and width.


----------



## Stro3579

Ware said:


> thegardentool said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully last question for a little bit but how long of an Acc-Gage will work with the GM? No time to pull it out of the garage to take a measurement and probably just need to order one ASAP.
> 
> Edit: Thanks Ware! That measurement helps at least for the short term until i figure out better landscaping plan in the back.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the standard 18" and it works fine on the GM1000. The "Hands Free Attachment" is a very nice upgrade. I also have the "Gauge Guard" option. I would consider those upgrades in that order.
Click to expand...

Will the standard work on Gm1600? Also is the ones from R&R hands free? Was thinking of getting the digital one.


----------



## Ware

Stro3579 said:


> Will the standard work on Gm1600? Also is the ones from R&R hands free? Was thinking of getting the digital one.


Yes, I use it on a GM1600. I am unfamiliar with the R&R version. Mine came from Accu-Products.


----------



## Stro3579

Ware said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Will the standard work on Gm1600? Also is the ones from R&R hands free? Was thinking of getting the digital one.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I use it on a GM1600. I am unfamiliar with the R&R version. Mine came from Accu-Products.
Click to expand...

Do you have the hands free? If so do you like it?


----------



## Ware

Stro3579 said:


> Do you have the hands free? If so do you like it?





Ware said:


> I have the standard 18" and it works fine on the GM1000. *The "Hands Free Attachment" is a very nice upgrade. I also have the "Gauge Guard" option. I would consider those upgrades in that order.*


----------



## TheTurfTamer

I have the Acc-guage as well. I purchased the guard and hard case. I should have also purchase the hands free option. Since it is only a magnet, I will look into adding a flush magnet.


----------



## Stro3579

Ware said:


> Stro3579 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have the hands free? If so do you like it?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have the standard 18" and it works fine on the GM1000. *The "Hands Free Attachment" is a very nice upgrade. I also have the "Gauge Guard" option. I would consider those upgrades in that order.*
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Thx Ware


----------



## Stro3579

TheTurfTamer said:


> I have the Acc-guage as well. I purchased the guard and hard case. I should have also purchase the hands free option. Since it is only a magnet, I will look into adding a flush magnet.


 :thumbup:


----------



## Drew1527

Any thoughts from you guys I went to replace my bed knife on my new to me unit and the reel was spinning with minimal contact on the old knife but with the new one on and torqued to spec. I removed in fear the is may bend the new knife.


----------



## TC2

Drew1527 said:


> Any thoughts from you guys I went to replace my bed knife on my new to me unit and the reel was spinning with minimal contact on the old knife but with the new one on and torqued to spec. I removed in fear the is may bend the new knife.


Looks like you left the sentence unfinished, but what I guess you're saying is that you simply haven't adjusted the bedknife away from the reel. As they wear down you have to adjust the bedknife closer to make contact, so when you add a new bedknife you'll have to backoff so they don't jam against each other.


----------



## Drew1527

Thanks TC2 for understanding thru the autocorrect of Siri. Is there a way to make larger adjustments to back it off or can you only back it off a notch at a time on the adjustment screw? And the left side got to the point too where it wouldn't turn counter clockwise much more so I'm thinking I need to loosen the nut at the back of the adjustment screw. Thanks again!


----------



## Jayray

Toro has instructions here on how to make larger adjustments after a new bedknife:

https://manuals.toro.com/142424/index.html?rnd=0.41512001906703067#b34939eb-4a4c-466c-9386-819d85893a63


----------



## trickd122

Is there any way that one can increase the HOC to say 1.5 to 2 inches on a GM1000 .. asking for a friend


----------



## Jayray

Do all the GM 1600 have grease fittings for the drum? I can't find these two anywhere:


----------



## cwrx82

Jayray said:


> Do all the GM 1600 have grease fittings for the drum? I can't find these two anywhere:


This is a horrible pic, but look between the drum and the inside of the frame. Should be one facing you, hopefully. (It's the dark spot)


----------



## FATC1TY

About to pull the trigger and spend a bit on a Toro GM. Like the size of the 1000 but seems the 1600 is more widely found with the 8 blade. I'll have around 5200 sq ft of Tif Grand to cut and hopefully plan to cut around .5-.75 inches regularly.

Would the 11 blade be okay for this? Or should I put the premium on the 8 blade ? I'm worried the hell strip beat sidewalk will be too narrow for the 1600.


----------



## Oceanus

FATC1TY said:


> About to pull the trigger and spend a bit on a Toro GM. Like the size of the 1000 but seems the 1600 is more widely found with the 8 blade. I'll have around 5200 sq ft of Tif Grand to cut and hopefully plan to cut around .5-.75 inches regularly.
> 
> Would the 11 blade be okay for this? Or should I put the premium on the 8 blade ? I'm worried the hell strip beat sidewalk will be too narrow for the 1600.


Short answer is you'll probably be fine with either. 
Yes, an 8 blade 1000 sounds like a better fit if you can be patient.

# blades - it depends how picky you are ! neither will destroy the turf (as you may know, shorter HOC ~ more blades)

hell strip - I mow a 7.5' wide strip with a 1600 and just have a lot of overlap which is no big deal (if the mower fits you're fine)


----------



## trickd122

So I decided to tear down my recently acquired $50.00 Gm 1000 8 blade with grooming kit. This thing had crud all over do I decided to check it out. Just so we are clear it works great. Engine fires on one pull, blades are ok sharp but I fre rust areas have developed from the PO. Is there anywhere that sells the left and right frame that doesnt cost an arm and leg.


----------



## Jayray

cwrx82 said:


> Jayray said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do all the GM 1600 have grease fittings for the drum? I can't find these two anywhere:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a horrible pic, but look between the drum and the inside of the frame. Should be one facing you, hopefully. (It's the dark spot)
Click to expand...

Thanks @cwrx82!


----------



## ctrav

Just picked up this Toro GM1000 which appears to be a 2008 model. Seller is local to me and asking $800 for the unit. It cuts paper all the way across the reel and starts on first pull. Not sure what to look for and the max HOC is just over an inch this is as low as I wanted to go. Current cut on front is at 1.5" and I like the look so 1" may be even better. Im hoping that this mower type will help me to get the grass to move laterally and promote density in the lawn.

Thoughts on the mower and price point is greatly appreciated...


----------



## SGrabs33

@ctrav did you already buy it? Looks like a nice unit to me. I didn't see the grass catcher anywhere. 8 blade REEL? That's better than the 11 for a higher cut. The reel looks like it has a lot of life left too :thumbup:


----------



## ctrav

SGrabs33 said:


> @ctrav did you already buy it? Looks like a nice unit to me. I didn't see the grass catcher anywhere. 8 blade REEL? That's better than the 11 for a higher cut. The reel looks like it has a lot of life left too :thumbup:


No sir I did not purchase yet but I will try it out on the lawn tomorrow. It has an 11 blade on it (I think). My head is swirling with excitement but don't want to make a bad purchase or jump on something too soon. After all its the beginning of the season and may find newer/better deals late in the year. I don't really want to have to cut more than twice a week just yet. Need to have the little ones in school full time for that.


----------



## SGrabs33

@ctrav ah, got ya. It does look like a nice unit. For $800 it's not a steal but a descent deal. I'm no Toro expert though.

I'm sure it's exciting, I still get excited with every REEL I buy. Haha.

Honestly, the fact that you have a larger lawn it may be worth it waiting on a 1600. Also due to FOC the 8blade REEL, that often comes on the 1600, would provide you with a better cut than the 11 blade REEL @ 1inch HOC.

Hope that doesn't dampen your spirits too much. Another thing to factor in is how often these come up for sale in your area. Maybe this is the only one all year so it might be your best option. There were some JD260SLs that went for $400 in one of the last auctions that posted. Maybe that's a good option too.

Talking about kids... I think I have only been able to mow about 3/4 times this year. Wayyyy less than I would like to but we all make sacrifices :thumbup:


----------



## ctrav

SGrabs33 said:


> @ctrav ah, got ya. It does look like a nice unit. For $800 it's not a steal but a descent deal. I'm no Toro expert though.
> 
> I'm sure it's exciting, I still get excited with every REEL I buy. Haha.
> 
> Honestly, the fact that you have a larger lawn it may be worth it waiting on a 1600. Also due to FOC the 8blade REEL, that often comes on the 1600, would provide you with a better cut than the 11 blade REEL @ 1inch HOC.
> 
> Hope that doesn't dampen your spirits too much. Another thing to factor in is how often these come up for sale in your area. Maybe this is the only one all year so it might be your best option. There were some JD260SLs that went for $400 in one of the last auctions that posted. Maybe that's a good option too.
> 
> Talking about kids... I think I have only been able to mow about 3/4 times this year. Wayyyy less than I would like to but we all make sacrifices :thumbup:


Thanks for the feedback... I have found several McLane's for sell but not so much on the GM's.


----------



## ctrav

Redtenchu said:


> After playing with the groomer and getting too aggressive, too soon, I wanted to change a few things up.
> 
> I removed the rear smooth roller and replaced it with a second (larger DIA) grooved roller.
> 
> I used my Meme Maker :lol:
> FYI-This is the bottom of the cutting unit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To ensure the larger grooved roller fit, I had to swap the rear roller bracket spacer from top to bottom. This picture is also from the bottom.


How has this worked out? Is there an issue rolling across concrete?


----------



## Redtenchu

@ctrav no issues, and not advantage either. I did take it back to the stock set up.


----------



## ctrav

Redtenchu said:


> @ctrav no issues, and not advantage either. I did take it back to the stock set up.


I was just curious... What I may be interested in is removing the wheel transport rods as I only see them being useful when taking the unit in for service in which case you could just put them back on. What do you think??


----------



## Redtenchu

ctrav said:


> I was just curious... What I may be interested in is removing the wheel transport rods as I only see them being useful when taking the unit in for service in which case you could just put them back on. What do you think??


I agree 100%, they are not useful for a homeowner. There should be instructions in the first few pages of this thread showing how its done.


----------



## SGrabs33

What does it mean if the bedknife adjustment screw is very tight and nearly impossible to turn. I am trying to adjust the REEL/Bedknife closer but I feel like something is wrong because of how hard it is to turn.


----------



## ctrav

Greendoc said:


> You need both if mowing above greens height. The 8 blade reel makes it so the mower can do tee height which is about 0.25". With the clip kit, that goes to around 0.3+. Other thing the clip kit does is increase the torque at the reel for dealing with the thicker, taller grasses at lawn height.


I know this is an older post but... are you saying that for home lawns the 8 blade and clip kit are kinda sorta mandatory? I just purchased an 2008 GM1000 and would hate to have to sink another 400-500 more to make it more homeowner friendly.


----------



## ctrav

Nixnix42 said:


> Toto manual states either grinding or back lapping. The R&R Bedknife I installed Had a good edge and synced up well to the reel so I just back lapped. Next year I plan to replace reel with 8 reel and clip kit as well.


Did you get around to replacing reel and clip kit? If so how has that helped?


----------



## ctrav

Just purchased a 2008 GM1000 at a decent price (I think). I have read just about everything I can find but have a few of questions now and Im sure more later...

- is it worth it to remove the transport wheel rods
- as I start to scalp down from 1" how much should I do at one time
- should I wait a day before going to the next lower point
- being somewhat mechanically challenged did I bite off more than I can chew
- how did you get the edges of lawn scalped down with the transport rods in the way

Any help is much appreciated...


----------



## TC2

You might as well take the axels off unless you really want to use the transport wheels. Don't forget one side is reverse thread.

The biggest issue with scalping is removing the amount of material you're going to be pulling off. Just take it down at your own rate and at the amount the mower can handle. You don't need to wait before taking it as low as you want it. Letting it sit before scalping again is arguably more damaging but the bermuda will take it.


----------



## ctrav

TC2 said:


> You might as well take the axels off unless you really want to use the transport wheels. Don't forget one side is reverse thread.
> 
> The biggest issue with scalping is removing the amount of material you're going to be pulling off. Just take it down at your own rate and at the amount the mower can handle. You don't need to wait before taking it as low as you want it. Letting it sit before scalping again is arguably more damaging but the bermuda will take it.


Thanks TC2...


----------



## ctrav

When I got the GM1000 it was set at 1.06' HOC and Im trying to lower but this bolt is about to pop out...
What to do??????



Its on the left side as you face the mower or the right side standing behind it...


----------



## N LA Hacker

Should ease back in as you lower it. It's trying to escape because it's too high.


----------



## ctrav

N LA Hacker said:


> Should ease back in as you lower it. It's trying to escape because it's too high.


Tried that and it just snapped off  :shock:


----------



## SGrabs33

SGrabs33 said:


> What does it mean if the bedknife adjustment screw is very tight and nearly impossible to turn. I am trying to adjust the REEL/Bedknife closer but I feel like something is wrong because of how hard it is to turn.


Any ideas on this? I searched online and found nothing.


----------



## TC2

Bleh. I did that on mine but that was because I'd forgotten to loosen the retaining bolt  . Had to order a new side piece.


----------



## Mrsamman

ctrav said:


> N LA Hacker said:
> 
> 
> 
> Should ease back in as you lower it. It's trying to escape because it's too high.
> 
> 
> 
> Tried that and it just snapped off  :shock:
Click to expand...

I think you were going the wrong way. Tightening that bolt lowers the HOC. 
Find a local welder to weld that back on instead of trying to buy a new one.
Scott


----------



## ctrav

Mrsamman said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> N LA Hacker said:
> 
> 
> 
> Should ease back in as you lower it. It's trying to escape because it's too high.
> 
> 
> 
> Tried that and it just snapped off  :shock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you were going the wrong way. Tightening that bolt lowers the HOC.
> Find a local welder to weld that back on instead of trying to buy a new one.
> Scott
Click to expand...

Thanks Scott for the suggestion. I would be concerned welding with it being aluminum so I ended up ordering.


----------



## ctrav

TC2 said:


> Bleh. I did that on mine but that was because I'd forgotten to loosen the retaining bolt  . Had to order a new side piece.


Yes sir I just ordered and at least the guy cut me some slack on the shipping. Dang part still cost me $47!!!


----------



## TC2

@SGrabs33 it's not that the adjustment screws are all gunked up is it? Alternatively is the reel/bedknife old? You might be reaching maximum.

The one in the picture is what you should see on a new reel/knife.


----------



## N LA Hacker

Were you tightening or loosening the bolt?


----------



## ctrav

N LA Hacker said:


> Were you tightening or loosening the bolt?


I called myself tightening to lower the hoc...


----------



## dfw_pilot

Pro turf in Dallas, near 121 and 183 - don't pay shipping. Good folks.


----------



## ctrav

dfw_pilot said:


> Pro turf in Dallas, near 121 and 183 - don't pay shipping. Good folks.


How do you not pay shipping? I do appreciate it and yes they are awesome folks. I ordered from them and part will be here Friday. I will be calling to speak with management on Monday to commend the gentleman who helped me. When I told him (Alfie) I had just purchased the machine the day before he went out of his way to help. I didn't pay full price and this guy went so far as to text me pictures of the part as we were talking to ensure I was getting what I really needed. He even said that if I have any issues or questions just call and they would provide any tech support I needed!





Someone else suggested I just weld the part back together which was a good thought...


----------



## dfw_pilot

Yeah, proturf is awesome, glad you found them.


----------



## ctrav

Here is a link to the service manual I found for the GM 1000...

https://media.toro.com/servicemanuals/96889sl.pdf


----------



## SGrabs33

TC2 said:


> SGrabs33 it's not that the adjustment screws are all gunked up is it? Alternatively is the reel/bedknife old? You might be reaching maximum.
> 
> The one in the picture is what you should see on a new reel/knife.


Yep, your exactly right I think. Here is a pic of two of the Toro's I have. Top is a 1600 with lots more room. Bottom is the 1000 which I guess is wore completely down.



Here is the 1000 REEL. I thought it had a little
Life left. I guess I wanted to change to an 8 blade REEL over the winter anyways.


----------



## ctrav

My part just arrived to fix my GM1000. Not only did they send the part but a new Toro hat as well. How cool is that!


----------



## Mrsamman

The hat makes all the pain worth it.

Scott


----------



## SGrabs33

Looks like a nice hat too! Always great when a company can make you forget about spending 50 bucks on a broken part by sending you a free hat that prob cost them $5. I want one!


----------



## ctrav

Fixed it and HOC set at .75 on one side and .76 on the other. Thats as close as I could get them...
The middle is a different story so I just stuck with measuring the ends :|


----------



## ctrav

Mrsamman said:


> The hat makes all the pain worth it.
> 
> Scott


Very true...


----------



## Jayray

cwrx82 said:


> Jayray said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do all the GM 1600 have grease fittings for the drum? I can't find these two anywhere:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a horrible pic, but look between the drum and the inside of the frame. Should be one facing you, hopefully. (It's the dark spot)
Click to expand...

So I found these grease fittings. They were not there but actually on the outside! Under the cover under the main drum pulley. Basically impossible to get to - so someone repacked those bearings and put them on the wrong way. . . Not something I want to fix myself.


----------



## NeVs

What grease is recommended to use? Need to grease up my new to me flex 21


----------



## trickd122

How exactly do I remove the reel? More specifically the gear attached the reel. This is a greensmaster 1000 thanks


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

Grease what? I don't see any grease fittings on my flex 21



NeVs said:


> What grease is recommended to use? Need to grease up my new to me flex 21


----------



## NeVs

thesouthernreelmower said:


> Grease what? I don't see any grease fittings on my flex 21
> 
> 
> 
> NeVs said:
> 
> 
> 
> What grease is recommended to use? Need to grease up my new to me flex 21
Click to expand...

What year is yours? I thought the older ones had grease fittings and their new models within the past few years no longer do?


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

I think mine is a 2001? I'd have to check the tag to be sure.


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

thesouthernreelmower said:


> I think mine is a 2001? I'd have to check the tag to be sure.


When I read your post about greasing I thought you may know something I don't lol. I don't see any on mine and thought maybe I overlooked something


----------



## NeVs

thesouthernreelmower said:


> I think mine is a 2001? I'd have to check the tag to be sure.


I'm probably wrong then. I think mine is 2004ish


----------



## TC2

trickd122 said:


> How exactly do I remove the reel? More specifically the gear attached the reel. This is a greensmaster 1000 thanks


1/2" socket in the middle. You'll need a chunk of wood to stop the reel from turning and probably a breaker bar or something to apply enough force!


----------



## trickd122

TC2 said:


> trickd122 said:
> 
> 
> 
> How exactly do I remove the reel? More specifically the gear attached the reel. This is a greensmaster 1000 thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 1/2" socket in the middle. You'll need a chunk of wood to stop the reel from turning and probably a breaker bar or something to apply enough force!
Click to expand...

Thank you


----------



## ctrav

I was making a few more passes with the GM1000 at .50 just to make sure I got it cut down. Sure enough I filled 8 more bags with clippings 😳 that's the good part.

All of a sudden I hear this clunky sound but I thought it was a small rock or something. The mower kept cutting but seemed to be digging in the turf on the right side. Instead of fine clippings coming up it was pulling long stolons of grass?









Need HELP...


----------



## ctrav

Took the GM1000 to Pro Turf for a quick look. We found the reason for the mower digging/pulling the grass on the right side. There is a gap between the bedknife and reel on the right side that can not be tightened as the bolt/screw that goes into the bedbar is 1- wrong bolt/screw, 2- it is somehow stripped. If its stripped then I will need a new bedbar which is $240 from R&R and $400 fro Pro Turf. Cant seem to find any on eBay as of yet.

Questions:
What is a standard vs aggressive Bedbar?

Is low cut bed knife best for home use?

Which roller is best for home use?
Narrow Wiehle - 2.0 inches Aluminum, Standard, 0.2 Spacing

Wide Wiehle - 2.0 inches Aluminum, More Penetration, 0.43 Spacing

Full Roller - 2.0" Steel,Least Penetration

Wiehle Roller - 2.0 inches Cast Iron,More Penetration, 0.43 Spacing

Wiehle Roller - 2.5 inches Aluminum

Thanks...


----------



## Kicker

could you not possibly drill out the stripped/wrong screw then just buy new bed knife screws?

or if the hole in the bedbar is what's stripped, use a tap/die to re-thread the hole?


----------



## ctrav

Kicker said:


> could you not possibly drill out the stripped/wrong screw then just buy new bed knife screws?
> 
> or if the hole in the bedbar is what's stripped, use a tap/die to re-thread the hole?


All this fancy talk @Kicker has my head spinning 
I like your way of thinking and thus why I posted. Yet and still I have no idea how to do either of those things ( I lived a sheltered childhood). I did buy new screws already (pick up tomorrow) and then me and mr google and mr youtube will all have a meeting to figure out what you have suggested. Thank you sir...


----------



## ctrav

Well my mower is for sure BROKEN :evil: 
The bolt to the bed bar was just lightly threaded on and when we removed its the bolt was broken off inside! This just sucks and is not good at all. What I thought was going to be a decent deal at $750 is now costing $500 more with no way around it. So I either have a $750 paper weight or I go all in for an additional $500 and pray nothing else happens...





All that work scalping is down the drain as it will be at least a week if not longer to get it done.


----------



## Bmossin

Can you get the bed bar off with where the bolt is broken off in the bar?

Drill out the broken bolt...run a thread chaser(tap to clean out the threads) and then throw a new bolt in.

You just want to be careful drilling it out.

What all are they doing for $500?


----------



## TheTurfTamer

Bmossin said:


> Can you get the bed bar off with where the bolt is broken off in the bar?
> 
> Drill out the broken bolt...run a thread chaser(tap to clean out the threads) and then throw a new bolt in. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
> 
> You just want to be careful drilling it out.
> 
> What all are they doing for $500?


 :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: 
@ctrav

You can also get a screw extractor bit. Learing how to fix things yourself is half the fun! If you are planning on taking it to the dealer for every little thing, Its going to get very expensive. Drill it out, Re-tap it. Problem solved in 30 minutes.


----------



## ctrav

@TheTurfTamer @Bmossin Thanks guys for the info and Im exploring that option to drill out the bolt. If all else fails the price of a bedbar shipped is right at $300. The extra $200 was to have the guy go ahead and change all the belts, tune-up, blade sharpen and replace bearings. All in all this would give me a fresh start. The guy I found feels bad because I just bought it and is really cutting me a deal considering if I went to Toro for the part it was $400 just to buy the darn thing.

Hopefully the bolt can be extracted and Im not committed until we find out...


----------



## Bmossin

@ctrav sounds like you have a good plan.

We are almost neighbors lol.


----------



## ctrav

Bmossin said:


> @ctrav sounds like you have a good plan.
> 
> We are almost neighbors lol.


Yes sir we are right around the corner from each other :thumbup:


----------



## trickd122

Hello guys

I am in the middle of a total tear down and rebuild of my GM 1000. How do i remove the drive cylinders?


----------



## SGrabs33

trickd122 said:


> Hello guys
> 
> I am in the middle of a total tear down and rebuild of my GM 1000. How do i remove the drive cylinders?


@jimbeckel should be able to help. He is the only other one that I know of who has torn one down that far.


----------



## g-man

@trickd122 check this section of Jimbeckel restore.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6720#p113193


----------



## jimbeckel

trickd122 said:


> Hello guys
> 
> I am in the middle of a total tear down and rebuild of my GM 1000. How do i remove the drive cylinders?


If I remember correctly there is a place to put a 1 1/4" wrench between the roller and the frame and then put another wrench on the outside of the drive shaft. I can look at my unit tomorrow to confirm. The drum was a bit of a chore to remove, had to slide it out of the frame at a certain angle. I can pm you my contact info if you need to discuss strategy over the phone, just let me know @trickd122


----------



## jimbeckel

ctrav said:


> @TheTurfTamer @Bmossin Thanks guys for the info and Im exploring that option to drill out the bolt. If all else fails the price of a bedbar shipped is right at $300. The extra $200 was to have the guy go ahead and change all the belts, tune-up, blade sharpen and replace bearings. All in all this would give me a fresh start. The guy I found feels bad because I just bought it and is really cutting me a deal considering if I went to Toro for the part it was $400 just to buy the darn thing.
> 
> Hopefully the bolt can be extracted and Im not committed until we find out...


Look for a used bedbar on Ebay, mine was broke when doing the restoration and found one on Ebay for $50. Another good source for used parts is general turf equipment out of Rutherfordton NC. Talk to the owner Chris, he probably has one he will sell you at a fair price.


----------



## ctrav

jimbeckel said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> @TheTurfTamer @Bmossin Thanks guys for the info and Im exploring that option to drill out the bolt. If all else fails the price of a bedbar shipped is right at $300. The extra $200 was to have the guy go ahead and change all the belts, tune-up, blade sharpen and replace bearings. All in all this would give me a fresh start. The guy I found feels bad because I just bought it and is really cutting me a deal considering if I went to Toro for the part it was $400 just to buy the darn thing.
> 
> Hopefully the bolt can be extracted and Im not committed until we find out...
> 
> 
> 
> Look for a used bedbar on Ebay, mine was broke when doing the restoration and found one on Ebay for $50. Another good source for used parts is general turf equipment out of Rutherfordton NC. Talk to the owner Chris, he probably has one he will sell you at a fair price.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much...I have checked eBay and so far no dice but I will check general turf!


----------



## reidgarner

Anybody have an issue with Flex 21 slowly leaking ATF from the drain plug on the gearbox? Drained and replaced the fluid and replaced the plug and O ring and it's still leaking...

Leaves a spot about the size of a quarter overnight.


----------



## jimbeckel

ctrav said:


> jimbeckel said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> @TheTurfTamer @Bmossin Thanks guys for the info and Im exploring that option to drill out the bolt. If all else fails the price of a bedbar shipped is right at $300. The extra $200 was to have the guy go ahead and change all the belts, tune-up, blade sharpen and replace bearings. All in all this would give me a fresh start. The guy I found feels bad because I just bought it and is really cutting me a deal considering if I went to Toro for the part it was $400 just to buy the darn thing.
> 
> Hopefully the bolt can be extracted and Im not committed until we find out...
> 
> 
> 
> Look for a used bedbar on Ebay, mine was broke when doing the restoration and found one on Ebay for $50. Another good source for used parts is general turf equipment out of Rutherfordton NC. Talk to the owner Chris, he probably has one he will sell you at a fair price.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks so much...I have checked eBay and so far no dice but I will check general turf!
Click to expand...

My local Sunbelt dealer told me they can order toro turf parts at cost, if you cant find the bedbar, send me the part number and I can check with them and see what they can get it for, might save you some money.


----------



## Babaganoosh

I know this isn't the for sale section and I'll probably post it up when I have time but I just took a kawasaki fe120 off a motorized spreader. I had it running on starting fluid but because I had a motor that would fit I just swapped it out. I believe you guys might need the G version because of the gear reduction but I'm not sure. This is the D without the gear reduction. If anyone is near me (NJ) you can have this thing for a 12 pack of blue moon beer. It's not in the best condition due to the previous owner leaving it out but it will run with some carb work. Just don't have the time.


----------



## ctrav

jimbeckel said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jimbeckel said:
> 
> 
> 
> Look for a used bedbar on Ebay, mine was broke when doing the restoration and found one on Ebay for $50. Another good source for used parts is general turf equipment out of Rutherfordton NC. Talk to the owner Chris, he probably has one he will sell you at a fair price.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks so much...I have checked eBay and so far no dice but I will check general turf!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My local Sunbelt dealer told me they can order toro turf parts at cost, if you cant find the bedbar, send me the part number and I can check with them and see what they can get it for, might save you some money.
Click to expand...

I should know more from my local sources by Tuesday/Wednesday and will let you know what I find out.


----------



## ctrav

@jimbeckel I just sent you a PM with part numbers and plan of action for your review and suggestions. Thanks so much for helping...


----------



## ctrav

Question: who uses a smooth roller vs a grooved roller on GM1000? Can you give the pros and cons? I plan on maintaining my lawn somewhere between .05 and .75" (when I get the machine back) and a new grooved roller is much more expensive than a smooth one. The grooved roller that's on my machine is fairly beat up and replacing the bearings is the cheapest route. Again pros and cons of grooved vs smooth front rollers. Oh and I have seen some mowers with what looks like end caps on the rollers. What are they and how do they help?

Thanks all...


----------



## TC2

After replacing my reel/BK recently, my grass deflector is loudly vibrating at the rear part which hangs near the bedbar. Can anyone tell me what I'm potentially missing to dampen this down?

AFAIAA, the grooved roller is supposed to make better ground contact ie less likely to float on dense grass.


----------



## reidgarner

reidgarner said:


> Anybody have an issue with Flex 21 slowly leaking ATF from the drain plug on the gearbox? Drained and replaced the fluid and replaced the plug and O ring and it's still leaking...
> 
> Leaves a spot about the size of a quarter overnight.


@Redtenchu didn't you have to replace a seal or two on your Flex 21 gearbox a couple seasons ago? I think I have determined the leak is coming from the vented seal around the axle or the seal behind the drive engage lever directly above it.


----------



## Redtenchu

Use some Talcum powder to trace the leak back to the source. The fluid can easily migrate away from the source due to the texture of the housing

If it is a seal, they are a basic seal and you can purchase them on amazon if you find the correct size.

I documented the replacement years ago on "the other site" and I believe all the pictures are gone.


----------



## ctrav

Ok I am beyond happy happy happy. I got my GM1000 back from the golf course guy I met. All is fixed, she looks pretty because he cleaned her up and last but not least he knocked the cost down to $300!!
- new belts
- oil and filter changed out
- new bedknife
- reel sharpened
- bedbar replaced

He told me he respected that I was raising my granddaughters and wanted to help. This guy is SOILD!!!


----------



## Ware

Very nice! Congrats @ctrav! :thumbup:


----------



## ctrav

Ware said:


> Very nice! Congrats @ctrav! :thumbup:


Thank you sir...


----------



## Mrsamman

Looks great. You'll be happy with this for a long time. Glad it worked out for you after all the trouble.

Scott


----------



## ctrav

Mrsamman said:


> Looks great. You'll be happy with this for a long time. Glad it worked out for you after all the trouble.
> 
> Scott


Thanks so much Scott...


----------



## SGrabs33

That's a deal! Those belts can get expensive. Glad it worked out well for you!


----------



## ctrav

SGrabs33 said:


> That's a deal! Those belts can get expensive. Glad it worked out well for you!


Agree it all turned out well...Thank you!


----------



## TC2

So... after changing the reel, I finally got around to giving it a backlap but I ran into an obvious(?) problem. Given that when you backlap, you're spinning the cog in the same direction required to unscrew it from the reel, how do you prevent that from happening? I torqued it to spec at the lower end, but that obviously wasn't enough. Do I need to jam it on really hard, be more careful with the backlap? Advice welcomed!


----------



## Kicker

Can anyone give me a parts number for the "Riv-nuts" that are atttached to the frame? the cable/pulley covers screw into them on the inside of the frame. I've got a few that are loose/spinning.

I've looked over the parts diagram but either am too dumb to figure out what they're calling them or don't see them listed.


----------



## SGrabs33

Kicker said:


> Can anyone give me a parts number for the "Riv-nuts" that are atttached to the frame? the cable/pulley covers screw into them on the inside of the frame. I've got a few that are loose/spinning.
> 
> I've looked over the parts diagram but either am too dumb to figure out what they're calling them or don't see them listed.


I believe that spinning happens often. I think it's been mentioned here before. You may need to put a wrench on the inside of the frame to get them to stop spinning.


----------



## ctrav

SGrabs33 said:


> Kicker said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone give me a parts number for the "Riv-nuts" that are atttached to the frame? the cable/pulley covers screw into them on the inside of the frame. I've got a few that are loose/spinning.
> 
> I've looked over the parts diagram but either am too dumb to figure out what they're calling them or don't see them listed.
> 
> 
> 
> I believe that spinning happens often. I think it's been mentioned here before. You may need to put a wrench on the inside of the frame to get them to stop spinning.
Click to expand...

This happened on mine as well and I just used a pair of pliers on the inside frame. It tightened right up...


----------



## shmiggz

I have a GM 1000 that doesn't roll when the clutch isn't engaged. To explain this better, you can't physically push the mower forward because both the wheels or drums will be locked up. Both sides spin when the machine is propped up on the rear bar thing, it's just when you try to go forward or backwards, they don't roll. When the machine is propped up and you spin one side, the other side spins in the opposite direction. This leads me to believe that there might a problem with the differential? If you engage the clutch, the machine goes forward as expected although I think the engagement is a little harsher than it should be. I tried searching Google and the forum and couldn't find anything.

Anyone have any ideas what I should look at? I took off all of the covers and don't see any obvious issues.


----------



## Kicker

shmiggz said:


> I have a GM 1000 that doesn't roll when the clutch isn't engaged. To explain this better, you can't physically push the mower forward because both the wheels or drums will be locked up. Both sides spin when the machine is propped up on the rear bar thing, it's just when you try to go forward or backwards, they don't roll. When the machine is propped up and you spin one side, the other side spins in the opposite direction. This leads me to believe that there might a problem with the differential? If you engage the clutch, the machine goes forward as expected although I think the engagement is a little harsher than it should be. I tried searching Google and the forum and couldn't find anything.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas what I should look at? I took off all of the covers and don't see any obvious issues.


to me, it sounds like it's operating correctly. On my gm1000, if i manually spin one side of the drum, the other side spins in the opposite direction.

Make sure you don't have the reel engaged. You won't be manually pushing the mower anywhere with the reel engaged.


----------



## shmiggz

The reel isn't engaged. I know it's not operating correctly because you can't physically move the mower at all. I have another GM 1000 that doesn't do this. For whatever reason, when you try to move the mower forward, both wheels lock up.


----------



## Kmartel

Picked up this 2004 greens master flex 21 last week off of Craigslist. Been looking for a good deal on one for a while. 900 hours on unit. Started right up and runs great. Had my sharpening guy give it a fresh grind, it's now ready to mow. The groomer is froze up on 1 side, stuck up in the transport mode. Should not be hard to get it moving again. Curious to see if it helps make my kbg grow more upright. Set it at max hoc .4", seems to give the same actual hoc at my Jacobsen 526 set at .5". Time will tell how it handles it. Happy to get another mower, specifically another Toro!


----------



## xraydesigns

I adjusted the reel to bedknife dimension while backlapping my gm1600. Made few passes with the mower and noticed there were streaks in my cut result. Is that normal and if so how do I correct it?


----------



## Drew1527

Alright I need some help again with my greensmaster 1000. I used it one time with out any issues. The next time I took it out to use it and it would stall out with the reel engaged after a little bit of time. Adding throttle doesn't help it just stalls. Having to baby the drive engagement to get it back into the garage. Thinking maybe a carb cleaning or fuel system cleaning is needed???? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks


----------



## ctrav

Question: my GM1000 is set at .75" HOC so I will make a few passes at that height to start my scalp. Then I will drop down to .50". When I lower the HOC do I then also need to check or make other adjustments to reel and bedknife?


----------



## SGrabs33

ctrav said:


> Question: my GM1000 is set at .75" HOC so I will make a few passes at that height to start my scalp. Then I will drop down to .50". When I lower the HOC do I then also need to check or make other adjustments to reel and bedknife?


nope


----------



## ctrav

SGrabs33 said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question: my GM1000 is set at .75" HOC so I will make a few passes at that height to start my scalp. Then I will drop down to .50". When I lower the HOC do I then also need to check or make other adjustments to reel and bedknife?
> 
> 
> 
> nope
Click to expand...

Thanks!!


----------



## xraydesigns

Is it normal for one side of the rear drum on a gm1600 to be spinning while the other side isn't? I'm still trying to figure out why my gm1600 does not go up slopes very well.


----------



## Ware

xraydesigns said:


> Is it normal for one side of the rear drum on a gm1600 to be spinning while the other side isn't? I'm still trying to figure out why my gm1600 does not go up slopes very well.


They have a differential. If one side loses traction, it will spin.


----------



## synergy0852

@xraydesigns I just had the same issue. There's a belt tension adjustment on each side. If you have the manual it explains how to do it. Mine ended up being too tight and works great after loosening it a bit.

Edit: after seeing @Ware comment I wanted to clarify this was happening to me while on the stand.


----------



## ctrav

NEED ADVICE...
Please see my journal for additional info:

I ground the edge and that looks fine. I could spin the real without it hitting the bar that runs in front of the reel. Now its making a loud clanking noise where it was smooth before. Not sure if this is the issue but...

This guard has a bolt on each side so maybe adjusting this will help? This is what I feel is vibrating and making the noise when the reel spins.


Here are the bolts...


Im totally guessing and sure its something easy. Something is misaligned...


----------



## MedozK

Need some help with my first Greensmaster. Found this one for $400, I went to look at it. Well it starts, but had a problem taking off at lower throttle. When I throttled is up, it would stay running fine, it did seem a little iffy when engaging the forward motion. The BIG problem I had was that the blade engaged anytime I engaged the forward movement. I tried the engage/disengage blade lever... but it seemed loose and did nothing.

It is a much older model, should I stay away from this one? I don't mind a project, but if I stay with it... should I ask for more off the price? Please help a newbie out... trying to move from a Mclane to a Greensmaster 1000.


----------



## TC2

@ctrav The rear end of the grass shield will vibrate like crazy if it's not jammed against the bedbar.


----------



## Ware

MedozK said:


> Need some help with my first Greensmaster. Found this one for $400, I went to look at it. Well it starts, but had a problem taking off at lower throttle. When I throttled is up, it would stay running fine, it did seem a little iffy when engaging the forward motion. The BIG problem I had was that the blade engaged anytime I engaged the forward movement. I tried the engage/disengage blade lever... but it seemed loose and did nothing.
> 
> It is a much older model, should I stay away from this one? I don't mind a project, but if I stay with it... should I ask for more off the price? Please help a newbie out... trying to move from a Mclane to a Greensmaster 1000.


It looks like those older ones either have a different style reel engagement lever or it is broken. Mine looks like this:


----------



## MedozK

Thanks. How much would you ask off the price for that type of fix? Or would it be something I could fix easily?


----------



## Ware

MedozK said:


> Thanks. How much would you ask off the price for that type of fix? Or would it be something I could fix easily?


That's tough to say - I would consider removing the side cover and see if you can figure out what may be going on. I have never had to mess with that mechanism on either of the Toro machines I have owned.


----------



## ctrav

TC2 said:


> @ctrav The rear end of the grass shield will vibrate like crazy if it's not jammed against the bedbar.


How do I jam it against the bedbar???


----------



## TC2

ctrav said:


> How do I jam it against the bedbar???


I adjusted the height of mine to the lowest position, which did the job.


----------



## ctrav

TC2 said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> How do I jam it against the bedbar???
> 
> 
> 
> I adjusted the height of mine to the lowest position, which did the job.
Click to expand...

Thanks...


----------



## xraydesigns

@Ware and @synergy0852 regarding my gm1600 not going up slopes. I did remove the cover and loosen the belt that controlls the diff and that seem to correct the problem. My only concern now however is, why the belt got tight on it's own in the first place. Any more info is welcomed. Thanks.


----------



## synergy0852

@xraydesigns That I don't know. I just got mine a few weeks ago and that's the way it came. I've been messing around with it to get used to everything and just happened to stumble on that fix for mine while removing my transport axles.


----------



## xraydesigns

Thanks @synergy0852


----------



## ctrav

Just got my GM100 back (again) and I noticed that after removing the wheel transport rods when I disengage the red lever the mower does not want to roll freely like it did before. If I turn on the mower and then disengage the red lever it moves forward with no issues. Something doesn't seem right or am I missing something??

Any suggestions or thoughts @jimbeckel or @MasterMech???


----------



## jimbeckel

ctrav said:


> Just got my GM100 back (again) and I noticed that after removing the wheel transport rods when I disengage the red lever the mower does not want to roll freely like it did before. If I turn on the mower and then disengage the red lever it moves forward with no issues. Something doesn't seem right or am I missing something??
> 
> Any suggestions or thoughts @jimbeckel or @MasterMech???


Red lever is the brake, disengaging while the mower is off should allow it to move freely, with the mower started it should also act the same way. You might have to follow the brake cable down to where it attaches to a pulley under the black hinged cover where the engine belts are located. Move the red lever back and forth and watch for the brake cable to move engaging and disengaging the pulley, sounds like a brake cable adjustment is in order.


----------



## ctrav

jimbeckel said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just got my GM100 back (again) and I noticed that after removing the wheel transport rods when I disengage the red lever the mower does not want to roll freely like it did before. If I turn on the mower and then disengage the red lever it moves forward with no issues. Something doesn't seem right or am I missing something??
> 
> Any suggestions or thoughts @jimbeckel or @MasterMech???
> 
> 
> 
> Red lever is the brake, disengaging while the mower is off should allow it to move freely, with the mower started it should also act the same way. You might have to follow the brake cable down to where it attaches to a pulley under the black hinged cover where the engine belts are located. Move the red lever back and forth and watch for the brake cable to move engaging and disengaging the pulley, sounds like a brake cable adjustment is in order.
Click to expand...

Thanks and I will try that. The rear rollers will not move at all now. They rolled for about 30-40 feet then it just stopped! I will check the brake cable and hopefully it's that simple. Then again my luck with this mower who knows...😩


----------



## Keepin It Reel

So after being torn between a JD and a Toro I am now a part of the Toro GM1000 family!

I ended up finding a 2008 GM1000 that was sitting for a while but overall is in good condition. It needs a little cleanup, servicing, sharpening, etc... But for the price I couldn't beat it.

Can anyone tell me on these models if there is an adjustable clip rate?

Also, for panels and covers such as the Toro cover that goes across the handles, where can these be found?

I'll post some after photos once it's ready.


----------



## SGrabs33

@MeanDean congrats!

No adjustable clip rate. There is a "clip kit" Toro sells but it's pretty expensive. Many owners end up switching to the 8 blade REEL.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

SGrabs33 said:


> @MeanDean congrats!
> 
> No adjustable clip rate. There is a "clip kit" Toro sells but it's pretty expensive. Many owners end up switching to the 8 blade REEL.


Thanks!

I'm excited to try it against my TruCut. I wish I would've just started with a greens mower but you live and learn.

I should have it back in 2 weeks. The guy who's working on it services equipment for several golf courses in the area and is a little swamped right now.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

I love my Toro!

Took me a year to really get a feel for keeping it cutting right! Stick with it!


----------



## ctrav

MeanDean said:


> So after being torn between a JD and a Toro I am now a part of the Toro GM1000 family!
> 
> I ended up finding a 2008 GM1000 that was sitting for a while but overall is in good condition. It needs a little cleanup, servicing, sharpening, etc... But for the price I couldn't beat it.
> 
> Can anyone tell me on these models if there is an adjustable clip rate?
> 
> Also, for panels and covers such as the Toro cover that goes across the handles, where can these be found?
> 
> I'll post some after photos once it's ready.


Congrats on the new GM1000. Mine has been a pain but its addicting to say the least...


----------



## Keepin It Reel

ctrav said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> So after being torn between a JD and a Toro I am now a part of the Toro GM1000 family!
> 
> I ended up finding a 2008 GM1000 that was sitting for a while but overall is in good condition. It needs a little cleanup, servicing, sharpening, etc... But for the price I couldn't beat it.
> 
> Can anyone tell me on these models if there is an adjustable clip rate?
> 
> Also, for panels and covers such as the Toro cover that goes across the handles, where can these be found?
> 
> I'll post some after photos once it's ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats on the new GM1000. Mine has been a pain but its addicting to say the least...
Click to expand...

What's been your biggest issue with it?


----------



## Belfort

I mow at 0.75 inch (Norhern grass mix) with my Toro GM 1000 (2007 model) which has a 11 blade reel. Overall i'm happy with it, but I would like to know what parts i need to improve the quality of cut at 0.75 inch.

I looked at the Toro accessory list. I guess i need a Bed-knife 93-4264??
What is better a 8 blade reel or a clip-kit? Or do i need to buy both?
Does anyone know what is the price of the clip-kit?


----------



## cwrx82

Belfort said:


> I mow at 0.75 inch (Norhern grass mix) with my Toro GM 1000 (2007 model) which has a 11 blade reel. Overall i'm happy with it, but I would like to know what parts i need to improve the quality of cut at 0.75 inch.
> 
> I looked at the Toro accessory list. I guess i need a Bed-knife 93-4264??
> What is better a 8 blade reel or a clip-kit? Or do i need to buy both?
> Does anyone know what is the price of the clip-kit?


What are you trying to improve? Does the grass look wavy after being mowed?

You can switch to an 8-blade reel and if you do, change the bedknife as well and look at the HOC they permit. I put an 8-blade on a GM1000 that I just sold and had about 15 mows with it. Cut from 0.40" up to 0.70" with no hiccups. The 8-blade will do well if you're wanting to maintain at 0.75".


----------



## Belfort

It's missing blades of grass. That's why i'm not happy with the quality of cut.

But what about the clip-kit... I can leave the 11 blade reel on if i buy the clip kit??


----------



## cwrx82

Belfort said:


> It's missing blades of grass. That's why i'm not happy with the quality of cut.
> 
> But what about the clip-kit... I can leave the 11 blade reel on if i buy the clip kit??


You can buy the clip kit, but it's probably pricy. That'd slow it down to where it hopefully won't miss as many blades of grass. Not sure if it'd slow it to the equivalent of an 8-blade, but slowing it would help in general. Then, you could always remove the kit if you decide to cut reely low with the 11-blade reel.


----------



## Belfort

Thanks for your answer

Do you know what is the price of the clip-kit?


----------



## cwrx82

Belfort said:


> Thanks for your answer
> 
> Do you know what is the price of the clip-kit?


No. Call your nearest Toro turf dealer and they should be able to tell you.


----------



## cwrx82

Belfort said:


> Thanks for your answer
> 
> Do you know what is the price of the clip-kit?


No. Call your nearest Toro turf dealer and they should be able to tell you.


----------



## Kicker

MeanDean said:


> So after being torn between a JD and a Toro I am now a part of the Toro GM1000 family!
> 
> I ended up finding a 2008 GM1000 that was sitting for a while but overall is in good condition. It needs a little cleanup, servicing, sharpening, etc... But for the price I couldn't beat it.
> 
> Can anyone tell me on these models if there is an adjustable clip rate?
> 
> Also, for panels and covers such as the Toro cover that goes across the handles, where can these be found?
> 
> I'll post some after photos once it's ready.


The plastic toro "Console" is $166 from pro turf. quoted two weeks ago. Part #115-1120


----------



## Kmartel

Belfort said:


> It's missing blades of grass. That's why i'm not happy with the quality of cut.
> 
> But what about the clip-kit... I can leave the 11 blade reel on if i buy the clip kit??


My experience.

I have a Jacobsen 526 7 blade mower and a toro flex 21 11 blade mower. Bench hoc is .5" for Jacobsen and .4" for toro. My toro leaves behind many, many, many more stragglers then the Jacobsen. The toro is new 2 me, if the issues continues over time I will be putting an 8 blade reel in it based on my experience with the Jacobsen.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Kicker said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> So after being torn between a JD and a Toro I am now a part of the Toro GM1000 family!
> 
> I ended up finding a 2008 GM1000 that was sitting for a while but overall is in good condition. It needs a little cleanup, servicing, sharpening, etc... But for the price I couldn't beat it.
> 
> Can anyone tell me on these models if there is an adjustable clip rate?
> 
> Also, for panels and covers such as the Toro cover that goes across the handles, where can these be found?
> 
> I'll post some after photos once it's ready.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The plastic toro "Console" is $166 from pro turf. quoted two weeks ago. Part #115-1120
Click to expand...

Thank you!


----------



## AVguy

Drew1527 said:


> Alright I need some help again with my greensmaster 1000. I used it one time with out any issues. The next time I took it out to use it and it would stall out with the reel engaged after a little bit of time. Adding throttle doesn't help it just stalls. Having to baby the drive engagement to get it back into the garage. Thinking maybe a carb cleaning or fuel system cleaning is needed???? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks


What engine do you have? The Kawasaki has a needle that is notorious for getting clogged. It looks like a flat head screw right on top of the carb. It's easy to get to and needs clearing often. Also the fuel filter(gravity bowl) needs to stay clean. If that fills up it will also clog the fuel line above the filter. Just take the hose clamps off and make sure the line from the tank is clear. Hope that helps.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Just curious if anyone would be interested in an 8 blade reel for a GM1000 at a reasonable cost?

I came across a few brand new 8 blades and was thinking about picking up a few if anyone local was interested. I'm definitely getting one since the seem to cut better than the 11 above 1/2"


----------



## ctrav

MeanDean said:


> Just curious if anyone would be interested in an 8 blade reel for a GM1000 at a reasonable cost?
> 
> I came across a few brand new 8 blades and was thinking about picking up a few if anyone local was interested. I'm definitely getting one since the seem to cut better than the 11 above 1/2"


Yes sir I am interested for sure! I have a 2008 GM1000 model 04052. What is the price?


----------



## Kmartel

MeanDean said:


> Just curious if anyone would be interested in an 8 blade reel for a GM1000 at a reasonable cost?
> 
> I came across a few brand new 8 blades and was thinking about picking up a few if anyone local was interested. I'm definitely getting one since the seem to cut better than the 11 above 1/2"


 Not local but would be interested if it definitely fits my flex 21.

Model # of my cutting unit.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

Kmartel said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious if anyone would be interested in an 8 blade reel for a GM1000 at a reasonable cost?
> 
> I came across a few brand new 8 blades and was thinking about picking up a few if anyone local was interested. I'm definitely getting one since the seem to cut better than the 11 above 1/2"
> 
> 
> 
> Not local but would be interested if it definitely fits my flex 21.
> 
> Model # of my cutting unit.
Click to expand...

The Flex reel is different that the GM1000 so not compatible unfortunately. I just swapped to an 8 blade and the cut is so much better. Both from the reel and bedknife being new and the better match of clip rate to HOC.


----------



## adgattoni

Reel Low Dad said:


> Kmartel said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious if anyone would be interested in an 8 blade reel for a GM1000 at a reasonable cost?
> 
> I came across a few brand new 8 blades and was thinking about picking up a few if anyone local was interested. I'm definitely getting one since the seem to cut better than the 11 above 1/2"
> 
> 
> 
> Not local but would be interested if it definitely fits my flex 21.
> 
> Model # of my cutting unit.
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The Flex reel is different that the GM1000 so not compatible unfortunately. I just swapped to an 8 blade and the cut is so much better. Both from the reel and bedknife being new and the better match of clip rate to HOC.
Click to expand...

Did you do the swap yourself? If so how was it? Video incoming? Also, did you change out all the bearings and such? I'm thinking of making the switch. My nearby sharpening service is nearly as costly as a whole new reel from R&R and they don't even relief grind.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@adgattoni Yep, did it all myself. It was not bad. Actually pretty easy. I replaced all the bearings and pretty much every part that may need replacement while the reel was out. I filmed it all and that made the process take forever. So there will be a video, however the video will be long. Probably over 60 minutes so I am coming up with a solution to that. Hope to have the full one up this weekend.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

ctrav said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious if anyone would be interested in an 8 blade reel for a GM1000 at a reasonable cost?
> 
> I came across a few brand new 8 blades and was thinking about picking up a few if anyone local was interested. I'm definitely getting one since the seem to cut better than the 11 above 1/2"
> 
> 
> 
> Yes sir I am interested for sure! I have a 2008 GM1000 model 04052. What is the price?
Click to expand...

The guy is out of town until this weekend. Once he returns I'll be in touch with him to see how many are available and get the exact model number.

I'll let you know asap.


----------



## SGrabs33

@MeanDean I may also be interested.


----------



## adgattoni

Reel Low Dad said:


> @adgattoni Yep, did it all myself. It was not bad. Actually pretty easy. I replaced all the bearings and pretty much every part that may need replacement while the reel was out. I filmed it all and that made the process take forever. So there will be a video, however the video will be long. Probably over 60 minutes so I am coming up with a solution to that. Hope to have the full one up this weekend.


Nice - what bedknife did you end up going with? Debating on whether to go with the .187 - 1.00 knife or one of the thicker 5/16 knives (not sure if I might want to take it lower than 5/16 at some point).


----------



## Reel Low Dad

I went with the Tournament cut .125 -.5 R93-4263. I put my groomer back on so 1/2 inch is my max HOC


----------



## TNTurf

I started another thread and asked in a different way but this may be a better place. What is the height of cut for a Flex 21 with a groomer and a Flex 2100 with a groomer? If I want to cut at .5 roughly, could the groomer be removed and a height of cut kit installed in its place to get the height?

What I really want is a GM1600 with an 8 blade reel but have access now to both Flex models and next week maybe a GM1000 which may be a better fit for the height I want.

Edit: Looks like part of my question was covered in the previous reply. I would get .5 with the Flex 21 and groomer. I can deal with that. What about the Flex 2100? It is in much better condition but a bit more expensive. ($300 more)


----------



## ctrav

MeanDean said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious if anyone would be interested in an 8 blade reel for a GM1000 at a reasonable cost?
> 
> I came across a few brand new 8 blades and was thinking about picking up a few if anyone local was interested. I'm definitely getting one since the seem to cut better than the 11 above 1/2"
> 
> 
> 
> Yes sir I am interested for sure! I have a 2008 GM1000 model 04052. What is the price?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The guy is out of town until this weekend. Once he returns I'll be in touch with him to see how many are available and get the exact model number.
> 
> I'll let you know asap.
Click to expand...

Much appreciated sir...


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@gsmornot Just looked at the service manual on a 2100 and looks like the max HOC in a normal config is also .5. IT didn't say if that changed with the groomer.


----------



## ctrav

Reel Low Dad said:


> @adgattoni Yep, did it all myself. It was not bad. Actually pretty easy. I replaced all the bearings and pretty much every part that may need replacement while the reel was out. I filmed it all and that made the process take forever. So there will be a video, however the video will be long. Probably over 60 minutes so I am coming up with a solution to that. Hope to have the full one up this weekend.


Can you do a 2, 3, or 4 part YouTube? Would love to see it...


----------



## Sparton

@Reel Low Dad I just got a flex 21, I didn't even realize that's the green master you had until today. Super excited for the swap video brochacho!


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@ctrav definitely going to to multiple parts. The plan right now is to get to a point where one is released every day or two. Stupid job getting in the way


----------



## ctrav

Reel Low Dad said:


> @ctrav definitely going to to multiple parts. The plan right now is to get to a point where one is released every day or two. Stupid job getting in the way


Please keep us posted on the release date...


----------



## Pamboys09

Got my first greens mower!! Toro 1600.

Looks bigger in person!

Seller sell it to me for $300, start on first pull. Just need to inspect and clean..

Any tips what to look for when checking this bad boy 😊?


----------



## ctrav

Pamboys09 said:


> Got my first greens mower!! Toro 1600.
> 
> Looks bigger in person!
> 
> Seller sell it to me for $300, start on first pull. Just need to inspect and clean..
> 
> Any tips what to look for when checking this bad boy 😊?


Nice score!


----------



## SGrabs33

@Pamboys09 nice, congrats. Transport wheels and grass catcher too! Check the oil and level, grease the zerks, paper test to check reel/bedknife. Those are the main ones. Drain the gas if it's old. You can remove the side covers and check the belts if you want to.


----------



## Pamboys09

SGrabs33 said:


> @Pamboys09 nice, congrats. Transport wheels and grass catcher too! Check the oil and level, grease the zerks, paper test to check reel/bedknife. Those are the main ones. Drain the gas if it's old. You can remove the side covers and check the belts if you want to.


I know, the seller told me that his old boss move house and they inherit this machine, they dont use kt because the machine scalp their lawn Everytime they use it. This was bought brand new by their old boss. I guess i got lucky on these 😁.

Okay will do that! Thanks for the tips!! So excited to try these out.


----------



## Pamboys09

Guys quick question, hope it make sense.

i notice its hard to move the new gm1600 i bought. I thought its on parking break so i lower the lever on the left, now i can move the greens mower with the wheels. But its giving too much resistant even o push down the parking break. What can be the cause of these? I check the manual and i dont see troubleshooting for those.

I saw on Connor's Youtube that he can move the GM1600 with ease with wheels. so i was thinking something is wrong with my GM1600.


----------



## SGrabs33

Pamboys09 said:


> Guys quick question, hope it make sense.
> 
> i notice its hard to move the new gm1600 i bought. I thought its on parking break so i lower the lever on the left, now i can move the greens mower with the wheels. But its giving too much resistant even o push down the parking break. What can be the cause of these? I check the manual and i dont see troubleshooting for those.
> 
> I saw on Connor's Youtube that he can move the GM1600 with ease with wheels. so i was thinking something is wrong with my GM1600.


Is the reel engaged?


----------



## TNTurf

Pamboys09 said:


> Got my first greens mower!! Toro 1600.
> 
> Looks bigger in person!
> 
> Seller sell it to me for $300, start on first pull. Just need to inspect and clean..
> 
> Any tips what to look for when checking this bad boy 😊?


$300, now this is what I'm looking for. Excellent find!


----------



## Pamboys09

SGrabs33 said:


> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Guys quick question, hope it make sense.
> 
> i notice its hard to move the new gm1600 i bought. I thought its on parking break so i lower the lever on the left, now i can move the greens mower with the wheels. But its giving too much resistant even o push down the parking break. What can be the cause of these? I check the manual and i dont see troubleshooting for those.
> 
> I saw on Connor's Youtube that he can move the GM1600 with ease with wheels. so i was thinking something is wrong with my GM1600.
> 
> 
> 
> Is the reel engaged?
Click to expand...

I tried to move it with engage reel and non engage and both giving resistance that i need to push it with some force. Maybe the parking break issue?


----------



## Pamboys09

shmiggz said:


> I have a GM 1000 that doesn't roll when the clutch isn't engaged. To explain this better, you can't physically push the mower forward because both the wheels or drums will be locked up. Both sides spin when the machine is propped up on the rear bar thing, it's just when you try to go forward or backwards, they don't roll. When the machine is propped up and you spin one side, the other side spins in the opposite direction. This leads me to believe that there might a problem with the differential? If you engage the clutch, the machine goes forward as expected although I think the engagement is a little harsher than it should be. I tried searching Google and the forum and couldn't find anything.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas what I should look at? I took off all of the covers and don't see any obvious issues.


I think we have the same issue? Any luck solving these??

I remove parking break and the reel(the handles close to the cutting unit) but still giving me resistant when pushing.


----------



## ctrav

Pamboys09 said:


> shmiggz said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a GM 1000 that doesn't roll when the clutch isn't engaged. To explain this better, you can't physically push the mower forward because both the wheels or drums will be locked up. Both sides spin when the machine is propped up on the rear bar thing, it's just when you try to go forward or backwards, they don't roll. When the machine is propped up and you spin one side, the other side spins in the opposite direction. This leads me to believe that there might a problem with the differential? If you engage the clutch, the machine goes forward as expected although I think the engagement is a little harsher than it should be. I tried searching Google and the forum and couldn't find anything.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas what I should look at? I took off all of the covers and don't see any obvious issues.
> 
> 
> 
> I think we have the same issue? Any luck solving these??
> 
> I remove parking break and the reel(the handles close to the cutting unit) but still giving me resistant when pushing.
Click to expand...

Have you opened the side cases and checked the belts? When mine did this a few days ago I found the belt was shredded. Also there should be a gap between the two rollers. For some reason mine was close together so I had to replace the pulley as well as belts. All works well now...


----------



## Pamboys09

ctrav said:


> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shmiggz said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a GM 1000 that doesn't roll when the clutch isn't engaged. To explain this better, you can't physically push the mower forward because both the wheels or drums will be locked up. Both sides spin when the machine is propped up on the rear bar thing, it's just when you try to go forward or backwards, they don't roll. When the machine is propped up and you spin one side, the other side spins in the opposite direction. This leads me to believe that there might a problem with the differential? If you engage the clutch, the machine goes forward as expected although I think the engagement is a little harsher than it should be. I tried searching Google and the forum and couldn't find anything.
> 
> Anyone have any ideas what I should look at? I took off all of the covers and don't see any obvious issues.
> 
> 
> 
> I think we have the same issue? Any luck solving these??
> 
> I remove parking break and the reel(the handles close to the cutting unit) but still giving me resistant when pushing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Have you opened the side cases and checked the belts? When mine did this a few days ago I found the belt was shredded. Also there should be a gap between the two rollers. For some reason mine was close together so I had to replace the pulley as well as belts. All works well now...
Click to expand...

Two rollers gap? What gap?
I notice the belt is so tight on those belts on the side of the mower. Is thats normal, ill post some pictures tomorrow


----------



## ctrav

Pamboys09 said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think we have the same issue? Any luck solving these??
> 
> I remove parking break and the reel(the handles close to the cutting unit) but still giving me resistant when pushing.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you opened the side cases and checked the belts? When mine did this a few days ago I found the belt was shredded. Also there should be a gap between the two rollers. For some reason mine was close together so I had to replace the pulley as well as belts. All works well now...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Two rollers gap? What gap?
> I notice the belt is so tight on those belts on the side of the mower. Is thats normal, ill post some pictures tomorrow
Click to expand...

At the rear of the GM1000 the big roller is two parts and there should be a gap as they roll independently and that's how the unit turns. Here is a pic...


Mine were close together and the belt busted so I had to replace them and now it's witking properly. 




Two belts were $44 and the pulley was another $80...


----------



## Pamboys09

@ctrav

Copy!

Will test that tomorrow.
Anyway I backlapped
And clean all the side guards and gears, clean airfilter and fuel filter.

Change hoc to .5 , well i just 1/2 inch of my ruler.

Anyway all i can say is this machine is a beast, its way different the way it cuts vs my Mclane.

Other than my issue that its hard for me to move the mower. All are good !


----------



## Pamboys09

@ctrav

Heres the picture , is this too close??


----------



## ctrav

Pamboys09 said:


> @ctrav
> 
> Heres the picture , is this too close??


Nope that looks about right. Just has to have space between them...

It was worth a shot as this was my recent issue...


----------



## Pamboys09

Hello, just order new bedknife, belt, air filter at R&R.

Based on what im seeing the reel still have life.

But i just want to clarify,
How can i know if i need to replace reel? 
Give me some hint fellas &#128578;...


----------



## cwrx82

Pamboys09 said:


> Hello, just order new bedknife, belt, air filter at R&R.
> 
> Based on what im seeing the reel still have life.
> 
> But i just want to clarify,
> How can i know if i need to replace reel?
> Give me some hint fellas 🙂...


Best way is to measure the diameter of the reel and then determine what percentage is left. If you ordered a new bedknife, might want to get the reel ground to ensure it isn't coned. Once the reel is true, then it'll be true to the bedknife.


----------



## Pamboys09

cwrx82 said:


> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello, just order new bedknife, belt, air filter at R&R.
> 
> Based on what im seeing the reel still have life.
> 
> But i just want to clarify,
> How can i know if i need to replace reel?
> Give me some hint fellas 🙂...
> 
> 
> 
> Best way is to measure the diameter of the reel and then determine what percentage is left. If you ordered a new bedknife, might want to get the reel ground to ensure it isn't coned. Once the reel is true, then it'll be true to the bedknife.
Click to expand...

Oh i get it, so backlap is not enough if im going to replace the bedknife?


----------



## cwrx82

Pamboys09 said:


> cwrx82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello, just order new bedknife, belt, air filter at R&R.
> 
> Based on what im seeing the reel still have life.
> 
> But i just want to clarify,
> How can i know if i need to replace reel?
> Give me some hint fellas 🙂...
> 
> 
> 
> Best way is to measure the diameter of the reel and then determine what percentage is left. If you ordered a new bedknife, might want to get the reel ground to ensure it isn't coned. Once the reel is true, then it'll be true to the bedknife.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh i get it, so backlap is not enough if im going to replace the bedknife?
Click to expand...

If that is your only option, then you could. It's not ideal. It could cause the bedknife to not wear evenly.


----------



## Pamboys09

cwrx82 said:


> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cwrx82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Best way is to measure the diameter of the reel and then determine what percentage is left. If you ordered a new bedknife, might want to get the reel ground to ensure it isn't coned. Once the reel is true, then it'll be true to the bedknife.
> 
> 
> 
> Oh i get it, so backlap is not enough if im going to replace the bedknife?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If that is your only option, then you could. It's not ideal. It could cause the bedknife to not wear evenly.
Click to expand...

So the best route is if im going to replace my bedknife, i should replace the reel too? ( Which i dont mind since i bought it used and the owner told me he havent change the reel yet.

I will get the bearing of the reel aswell.

Once received the order the best way is to just backlap with 120 and 180 grit??


----------



## cwrx82

@Pamboys09 you can have the reel ground to be true or buy a new one. If you're going to buy a new one, then replace the bearings while you're in there. Once you either have the current reel ground or buy a new one, yes, backlap the reel to the bedknife to mate them. 120 and 180 are fine. That's what I used when I swapped reels.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

Part 1 of the reel replacement is up. Hope to have part 2 soon!


----------



## ctrav

Reel Low Dad said:


> Part 1 of the reel replacement is up. Hope to have part 2 soon!


Thanks...


----------



## Pamboys09

cwrx82 said:


> @Pamboys09 you can have the reel ground to be true or buy a new one. If you're going to buy a new one, then replace the bearings while you're in there. Once you either have the current reel ground or buy a new one, yes, backlap the reel to the bedknife to mate them. 120 and 180 are fine. That's what I used when I swapped reels.


got it, i went to R&R website, just to confirm the three i circle below are the one i need to order, correct?


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@Pamboys09 you will probably need all the seals and wave washers as well. So parts 21,23,71,72.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Pamboys09 sorry if I missed it but why exactly do you think you need a new REEL?


----------



## Pamboys09

SGrabs33 said:


> @Pamboys09 sorry if I missed it but why exactly do you think you need a new REEL?


I just want to have inventory ready, im planning to sell my mclane so in case my 1600 goes down i have important parts ready.



Reel Low Dad said:


> @Pamboys09 you will probably need all the seals and wave washers as well. So parts 21,23,71,72.


Wait wheres 21?


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@Pamboys09 sorry. #22. typo on phone. Those are the seals that hold the bearings in and the grease. the existing will be damaged when removed.


----------



## Pamboys09

Reel Low Dad said:


> @Pamboys09 sorry. #22. typo on phone. Those are the seals that hold the bearings in and the grease. the existing will be damaged when removed.


Got it, waiting on your video lol!


----------



## Reel Low Dad

Part 2 is up. https://youtu.be/Lv-s0GXf1BM


----------



## ctrav

Reel Low Dad said:


> Part 2 is up.


 :thumbup: :thumbup:


----------



## Guest

MeanDean said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious if anyone would be interested in an 8 blade reel for a GM1000 at a reasonable cost?
> 
> I came across a few brand new 8 blades and was thinking about picking up a few if anyone local was interested. I'm definitely getting one since the seem to cut better than the 11 above 1/2"
> 
> 
> 
> Yes sir I am interested for sure! I have a 2008 GM1000 model 04052. What is the price?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The guy is out of town until this weekend. Once he returns I'll be in touch with him to see how many are available and get the exact model number.
> 
> I'll let you know asap.
Click to expand...

I'd be interested as well. I have a GM1000 Model 4050 would love a new 8 blade reel at a decent price.


----------



## Ware

Welcome back @Nixnix42 - haven't seen you around in a while!


----------



## TNTurf

Picked up a Flex 21, so far love it compared to my Tru Cut. Only issues so far are the bed knife needs to be replaced, reel ground (both expected) and an oil seal on the gearbox is bad where the drive lever connects. Dealer only part so had to call and get that on order. I still want a GM1600 but I can wait a while until I find a good deal.

I have a hill on the side I was not sure about. So far it does not like it but it was a little damp today. I will go at it again when its dryer. Had to stop (didn't HAVE to) but I could not work with the trans fluid on the lawn its going to kill it in the spots it dripped and that's no good. Just sharing.

I guess a question is fitting for this section. What other parts should I be aware of that are ware parts that are needed from the dealer. I won't get any until they are needed but curious what you guys have run into.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

gsmornot said:


> Picked up a Flex 21, so far love it compared to my Tru Cut. Only issues so far are the bed knife needs to be replaced, reel ground (both expected) and an oil seal on the gearbox is bad where the drive lever connects. Dealer only part so had to call and get that on order. I still want a GM1600 but I can wait a while until I find a good deal.
> 
> I have a hill on the side I was not sure about. So far it does not like it but it was a little damp today. I will go at it again when its dryer. Had to stop (didn't HAVE to) but I could not work with the trans fluid on the lawn its going to kill it in the spots it dripped and that's no good. Just sharing.
> 
> I guess a question is fitting for this section. What other parts should I be aware of that are ware parts that are needed from the dealer. I won't get any until they are needed but curious what you guys have run into.


I had to buy a counter weight from the dealer when I took the groomer off as well as some plow bolts. I then bought the shorter plow bolts to put the groomer back on. Those were from the dealer. I did by the reel cable from the dealer since R&R didnt have it listed, but they do have them you just may need to call.


----------



## TNTurf

Reel Low Dad said:


> gsmornot said:
> 
> 
> 
> Picked up a Flex 21, so far love it compared to my Tru Cut. Only issues so far are the bed knife needs to be replaced, reel ground (both expected) and an oil seal on the gearbox is bad where the drive lever connects. Dealer only part so had to call and get that on order. I still want a GM1600 but I can wait a while until I find a good deal.
> 
> I have a hill on the side I was not sure about. So far it does not like it but it was a little damp today. I will go at it again when its dryer. Had to stop (didn't HAVE to) but I could not work with the trans fluid on the lawn its going to kill it in the spots it dripped and that's no good. Just sharing.
> 
> I guess a question is fitting for this section. What other parts should I be aware of that are ware parts that are needed from the dealer. I won't get any until they are needed but curious what you guys have run into.
> 
> 
> 
> I had to buy a counter weight from the dealer when I took the groomer off as well as some plow bolts. I then bought the shorter plow bolts to put the groomer back on. Those were from the dealer. I did by the reel cable from the dealer since R&R didnt have it listed, but they do have them you just may need to call.
Click to expand...

Liking the videos. I plan to swap to an 8 blade in the future as well so they are very helpful. One tip I'll share, when removing the cutting unit push the kickstand about half way down. You will see a hole on the left frame near the handle attachment just above the kickstand where it connects. You slide in a 1/4in pin or bolt or whatever will fit. It will catch itself once the cutting unit is free from the traction unit.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@gsmornot awesome tip!! thank you!


----------



## reidgarner

Reel Low Dad said:


> Part 2 is up.


Thanks for documenting. I'll be replacing mine this winter.


----------



## Pamboys09

Reel Low Dad said:


> Part 2 is up.


Same steps for gm1600?


----------



## TNTurf

On the flex units, we can adjust the front roller and the rear roller height on the cutting unit. The rear on my model is one of two settings. Any idea if there is a "rule" to follow for higher or lower setting? With the standard height of cut bars installed and the rear on the higher setting, your HOC is about .410 max. (my mower) Everything on the lowest setting is somewhere in the .1xx range I think, can't cut that low.

Installed high cut of height bars. With the front on the lowest setting and the rear on the higher setting the lowest you can set is about .550. I assume I can just drop the rear to reach the .4 range so there is no gap in coverage. Typing this I'm thinking I should instead be in the garage lowering the rear and finding out for myself but maybe this is helpful for someone that is looking at a Flex and wondering about height. The highest setting with everything up is about an inch but who needs that. (I know some but making a funny)

Edit: With the rear roller on the lower setting, meaning it lowers the cutting unit, and the front on the lowest setting without cranking the bolts down you get .420. So, with the combo of the original bars and the high cut bars you can cover quite a bit of range and if you need to swap from one to the other its a 10 minute job.


----------



## shmiggz

> I think we have the same issue? Any luck solving these??
> 
> I remove parking break and the reel(the handles close to the cutting unit) but still giving me resistant when pushing.


Pamboys09, does yours move when you engage the clutch? My machine seems to be fully operational other than when it's off. I haven't had too much time to look at it lately.


----------



## Pamboys09

shmiggz said:


> I think we have the same issue? Any luck solving these??
> 
> I remove parking break and the reel(the handles close to the cutting unit) but still giving me resistant when pushing.
> 
> 
> 
> Pamboys09, does yours move when you engage the clutch? My machine seems to be fully operational other than when it's off. I haven't had too much time to look at it lately.
Click to expand...

Mine move when use gas/clutch, the one im concern is when its off and moving from my garage to the lawn, its kinda giving me resistance.

I email toro tech support and they told me thats normal,. When moving my mower from kne place to another he told me use the engine and transport wheels.


----------



## The_iHenry

Pamboys09 said:


> shmiggz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we have the same issue? Any luck solving these??
> 
> I remove parking break and the reel(the handles close to the cutting unit) but still giving me resistant when pushing.
> 
> 
> 
> Pamboys09, does yours move when you engage the clutch? My machine seems to be fully operational other than when it's off. I haven't had too much time to look at it lately.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Mine move when use gas/clutch, the one im concern is when its off and moving from my garage to the lawn, its kinda giving me resistance.
> 
> I email toro tech support and they told me thats normal,. When moving my mower from kne place to another he told me use the engine and transport wheels.
Click to expand...

That's the way I move mine. Just make sure your reel is disengaged when transporting.


----------



## Guest

Ware said:


> Welcome back @Nixnix42 - haven't seen you around in a while!


Thanks Mr.Ware! yep glad to be back Sir


----------



## Reel Low Dad

Here is part 3. 
https://youtu.be/7tErb5YRKoI


----------



## Oceanus

Considering replacing my 'Rolling Parts' with this. Your critical eye and thoughts please.
Do you see any issues or problems? Specifically the blade.
thanks in advance! :beer:


----------



## ctrav

Anyone using an 8 blade reel on GM1000? Im seriously considering it since my reel needs to be replaced. I don't plan on cutting much lower than 1/2" and from what I read the 8 blade is a better choice.

Also what would I need to replace when putting on a new reel? Bearings perhaps but what else??

Thanks...


----------



## TNTurf

ctrav said:


> Anyone using an 8 blade reel on GM1000? Im seriously considering it since my reel needs to be replaced. I don't plan on cutting much lower than 1/2" and from what I read the 8 blade is a better choice.
> 
> Also what would I need to replace when putting on a new reel? Bearings perhaps but what else??
> 
> Thanks...


Bearings and bedknife would be about it. I have an 8 blade on my future todo list but honestly not in a hurry. At .450 with a clip kit I see no negative effects, not yet. My other mower (Tru Cut) has a 7 blade and same there, no issues and I have it set at the same .450. I use it to cut a hill my Flex 21 hates.


----------



## ctrav

gsmornot said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone using an 8 blade reel on GM1000? Im seriously considering it since my reel needs to be replaced. I don't plan on cutting much lower than 1/2" and from what I read the 8 blade is a better choice.
> 
> Also what would I need to replace when putting on a new reel? Bearings perhaps but what else??
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> 
> 
> Bearings and bedknife would be about it. I have an 8 blade on my future todo list but honestly not in a hurry. At .450 with a clip kit I see no negative effects, not yet. My other mower (Tru Cut) has a 7 blade and same there, no issues and I have it set at the same .450. I use it to cut a hill my Flex 21 hates.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately I think this reel is bad because it should not be so delicate considering I'm not zooming along or banging it around. I will try a new reel and hopefully this will smooth everything out. If not I'm going back to rotary and maintaining at 1".


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Do you guys have any tips for navigating a yard with standard obstacles like a fence, flower beds, raised water meters, etc...

Coming from a Tru Cut I love the thumb drive and how easy to is to simply let off, slow down, adjust near my fence, etc... Unlike the Toro's drive lever needing to be adjusted.

I'm sure I'll get use to the GM1000 in time but turning around at the end of a pass and navigating the yard is a bit more challenging than the TC.

Would be cool to see similar controls for the Toro.


----------



## ctrav

MeanDean said:


> Do you guys have any tips for navigating a yard with standard obstacles like a fence, flower beds, raised water meters, etc...
> 
> Coming from a Tru Cut I love the thumb drive and how easy to is to simply let off, slow down, adjust near my fence, etc... Unlike the Toro's drive lever needing to be adjusted.
> 
> I'm sure I'll get use to the GM1000 in time but turning around at the end of a pass and navigating the yard is a bit more challenging than the TC.
> 
> Would be cool to see similar controls for the Toro.


When I first got mine it was a learning curve for sure. In fact Im sure I looked quite comical... I have learned a few painful lessons and this much I know the GM1000 is for grass not driveways and sidewalks. I now make a double boarder pass and avoid all obstacles! I use my lawn blade and string trimmer to clean up. No more pushing the edge with the GM1000 (at least not mine). Keep the throttle down low unless you have long clear paths...


----------



## Guest

MeanDean said:


> Do you guys have any tips for navigating a yard with standard obstacles like a fence, flower beds, raised water meters, etc...
> 
> Coming from a Tru Cut I love the thumb drive and how easy to is to simply let off, slow down, adjust near my fence, etc... Unlike the Toro's drive lever needing to be adjusted.
> 
> I'm sure I'll get use to the GM1000 in time but turning around at the end of a pass and navigating the yard is a bit more challenging than the TC.
> 
> Would be cool to see similar controls for the Toro.


Ya gotta learn that "GreenMaster pivot maneuver" low idle disengage the drive at the end of your turn then reengage when coming around. Let the differential do the work for ya.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Nixnix42 said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys have any tips for navigating a yard with standard obstacles like a fence, flower beds, raised water meters, etc...
> 
> Coming from a Tru Cut I love the thumb drive and how easy to is to simply let off, slow down, adjust near my fence, etc... Unlike the Toro's drive lever needing to be adjusted.
> 
> I'm sure I'll get use to the GM1000 in time but turning around at the end of a pass and navigating the yard is a bit more challenging than the TC.
> 
> Would be cool to see similar controls for the Toro.
> 
> 
> 
> Ya gotta learn that "GreenMaster pivot maneuver" low idle disengage the drive at the end of your turn then reengage when coming around. Let the differential do the work for ya.
Click to expand...

So when you come to the end of your pass you pull the lever up to disengage the drive and spin aroundon the rear roller, straighten up, then reengage the drive and continue?


----------



## Ware

That's what I do. You'll get to where you use the forward momentum to sort of carry you into the turn.

I lower the throttle when I am maneuvering around obstacles.

I also make two perimeter passes first. This gives me a nice cushion to turn around on.

When mowing greens, I think they make the perimeter/clean-up pass last, but on my lawn I haven't found that it makes a difference.


----------



## Guest

Ware said:


> That's what I do. You'll get to where you use the forward momentum to sort of carry you into the turn.
> 
> I lower the throttle when I am maneuvering around obstacles.
> 
> I also make two perimeter passes first. This gives me a nice cushion to turn around on.
> 
> When mowing greens, I think they make the perimeter/clean-up pass last, but on my lawn I haven't found that it makes a difference.


+1


----------



## Keepin It Reel

So I used the GM1000 for the first time today and honestly prefer the Tru Cut over it. These mowers weren't designed to maneuver around obstacles and adjusting the lever to slow down and change directions over and over is a pain in the ***.

I wish you could convert these to a paddle shifter similar to a TC where you have full control at all times.

I know overall it's it's a superior mower than the TC I just don't feel it's practical for residential usage. I love how easy adjusting the HOC and reel to bedknife is but if the mow becomes work and a pain in the *** instead of something I truly enjoy then there's no point in keeping it.


----------



## ctrav

MeanDean said:


> So I used the GM1000 for the first time today and honestly prefer the Tru Cut over it. These mowers weren't designed to maneuver around obstacles and adjusting the lever to slow down and change directions over and over is a pain in the @ss.
> 
> I wish you could convert these to a paddle shifter similar to a TC where you have full control at all times.
> 
> I know overall it's it's a superior mower than the TC I just don't feel it's practical for residential usage. I love how easy adjusting the HOC and reel to bedknife is but if the mow becomes work and a pain in the @ss instead of something I truly enjoy then there's no point in keeping i@SS317
> All this after one cut? I was running around like a mad man my first couple of cuts. Give it some time and learn the machine...you may be surprised 👍🏾


----------



## Keepin It Reel

ctrav said:


> All this after one cut? I was running around like a mad man my first couple of cuts. Give it some time and learn the machine...you may be surprised 👍🏾


Yeah man, it was terrible lol

I felt like I was fighting it the entire time. Plus the 11 blade reel was missing grass like crazy. I was looking into some 8 blade reels which I know help tremendously at taller heights but I don't think it's worth investing in if I don't plan to keep it.


----------



## ctrav

MeanDean said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> All this after one cut? I was running around like a mad man my first couple of cuts. Give it some time and learn the machine...you may be surprised 👍🏾
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah man, it was terrible lol
> 
> I felt like I was fighting it the entire time. Plus the 11 blade reel was missing grass like crazy. I was looking into some 8 blade reels which I know help tremendously at taller heights but I don't think it's worth investing in if I don't plan to keep it.
Click to expand...

Most folks know I have had my share of issues with my GM1000. Some issue were the mower and some were self inflicted. I liked my cut at 3/4" and just went down to 1/2" today. I will eventually get an 8 blade and perhaps the cut will be even better.

I didn't have the luxury of another reel mower before the GM but I have come to appreciate it and the difference between my rotary and this is truly transforming.

If I had started out on a lighter reel mower and had become comfortable then who knows I may feel like you. I started with this and I truly enjoy it...even more so as I continue to learn...


----------



## Keepin It Reel

ctrav said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> All this after one cut? I was running around like a mad man my first couple of cuts. Give it some time and learn the machine...you may be surprised 👍🏾
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah man, it was terrible lol
> 
> I felt like I was fighting it the entire time. Plus the 11 blade reel was missing grass like crazy. I was looking into some 8 blade reels which I know help tremendously at taller heights but I don't think it's worth investing in if I don't plan to keep it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Most folks know I have had my share of issues with my GM1000. Some issue were the mower and some were self inflicted. I liked my cut at 3/4" and just went down to 1/2" today. I will eventually get an 8 blade and perhaps the cut will be even better.
> 
> I didn't have the luxury of another reel mower before the GM but I have come to appreciate it and the difference between my rotary and this is truly transforming.
> 
> If I had started out on a lighter reel mower and had become comfortable then who knows I may feel like you. I started with this and I truly enjoy it...even more so as I continue to learn...
Click to expand...

There are certainly things about the TC that are annoying and tedious. Learning to adjust the reel to bedknife alone is a pain.

Coming from a rotary to the TC was transforming like you said but from the TC to the GM1000 not so much for me at least.

The cut wasn't as clean, changing directions, working around beds, sidewalks, etc... Was way more work. These guys were designed for open areas without obstacles.

I may give it another shot but the first impressions didn't live up to the anticipation I had.


----------



## Ware

Don't give up. We've all been there. :thumbup:


----------



## TNTurf

Having both a Tru Cut and Greensmaster, I know where you're coming from. The ability to fine tune the reel to bedknife on the GM is far better than having to rotate the reel on the TC and just getting it close. The rollers on the GM are far better than the wheels on the TC. I have the C27 which helps spread the load since it has 4 tires on the back but its still tires and still not the same as a large drum. The sound level is far better on the GM than the TC, every part of the sound from the engine to the reel to the drive belts are just not as loud. The quality of cut is better on the GM than the TC when everything is sharp and adjusted. I have cuts where it looks like I poured the clippings from a seasoning bottle they are so fine.

All that said, I would take a well tuned, not as old Tru Cut as I have today. The tires make turning around on concrete no issue, it climbs the hill on the side yard no issue. It lets me set the throttle, turn on the reel, and move around the yard at whatever speed my left thumb feels like which in many cases gives a better cut. You can have a medium speed with a faster reel and the ability to "balance the system".

I am currently in a position that I can use the GM for 85% of the lawn, the other 15% is done with the TC because no matter how I do it the GM will not do the worst part of my hill. It goes down better than the TC, its slowed by the engine which I do like but getting up is a chore. It has taken some cuts to feel like I didn't make a mistake buying the GM. I think its fantastic now and the more I use it the more I really love using it. I'm keeping both and using both each time I mow. Since the GM is so easy to adjust I have it set to match the TC so at least the height is close. The stripes are different sizes but on the side of the house on a hill its not that big of a deal.

With my yard, if I could have just one mower, I would take a well adjusted sharp TC. I want to try a fixed head to see if its better on the hill but past that, I know where you're coming from. A reel in any brand is better than a rotary. I was already getting a lot of positive comments on the lawn before the GM since its so different than what the vast majority are doing. I would be lying if I said I could not already see an improvement though with the GM, it really is better but no one but me has really noticed. "They" still just see a short lawn cut often. If you can, keep both and I think over time you will find the GM the one you want to use but will still wish it had the basic features of the TC.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

gsmornot said:


> Having both a Tru Cut and Greensmaster, I know where you're coming from. The ability to fine tune the reel to bedknife on the GM is far better than having to rotate the reel on the TC and just getting it close. The rollers on the GM are far better than the wheels on the TC. I have the C27 which helps spread the load since it has 4 tires on the back but its still tires and still not the same as a large drum. The sound level is far better on the GM than the TC, every part of the sound from the engine to the reel to the drive belts are just not as loud. The quality of cut is better on the GM than the TC when everything is sharp and adjusted. I have cuts where it looks like I poured the clippings from a seasoning bottle they are so fine.
> 
> All that said, I would take a well tuned, not as old Tru Cut as I have today. The tires make turning around on concrete no issue, it climbs the hill on the side yard no issue. It lets me set the throttle, turn on the reel, and move around the yard at whatever speed my left thumb feels like which in many cases gives a better cut. You can have a medium speed with a faster reel and the ability to "balance the system".


My TC is a 27" with a front roller as well. Everything you mentioned resonates with me. The tires over concrete, climbing the incline in my backyard, total control over the throttle and reel, maneuverability, etc... Make the TC far more attractive and logical for me.

I do love how quiet the GM is. When I first started it up I couldn't believe it. I wouldn't say I could mow at night with it but it's pretty damn quiet compared to my TC. I'm not 100% sure on the weight but the GM1000 feels like a tank compared to the TC and is harder to backup, reposition, turn around, etc... Especially when the driver isn't engaged.

I don't want my mow to feel like work and to grow weary from the process. I love being in my yard and take pride in it but if that process becomes frustrating all because of a piece of equipment there's no point in having it.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Any idea what would cause these lines? As I made a few passes I saw where I was missing grass because I'm not used to how much overlap I need with this machine but it still left these lines. Not sure if it's the weight and my height of cut or what.


----------



## ctrav

MeanDean said:


> Any idea what would cause these lines? As I made a few passes I saw where I was missing grass because I'm not used to how much overlap I need with this machine but it still left these lines. Not sure if it's the weight and my height of cut or what.


I get that on my lawn as well with the GM1000. Not as noticeable at 3/4" as it is at 1/2". @TN Hawkeye suggested my sweet spot may be somewhere in between those 2 heights of cut. I'm going to just deal with it for a few cuts at 1/2" and then consider raising just a tad. My gut also says the fact I have not done any leveling is a contributing factor...


----------



## Keepin It Reel

ctrav said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea what would cause these lines? As I made a few passes I saw where I was missing grass because I'm not used to how much overlap I need with this machine but it still left these lines. Not sure if it's the weight and my height of cut or what.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I get that on my lawn as well with the GM1000. Not as noticeable at 3/4" as it is at 1/2". @TN Hawkeye suggested my sweet spot may be somewhere in between those 2 heights of cut. I'm going to just deal with it for a few cuts at 1/2" and then consider raising just a tad. My gut also says the fact I have not done any leveling is a contributing factor...
Click to expand...

My front yard has been leveled which makes sense why I don't have those lines whereas my backyard has never send sand. I'll be doing that next spring.


----------



## Scalper007

.


----------



## Scalper007

Here's another question. Could somebody tell me the part# for the black groomer on the picture?

Is it a groomer or a dethatcher?


----------



## TNTurf

Scalper007 said:


> Here's another question. Could somebody tell me the part# for the black groomer on the picture?
> 
> Is it a groomer or a dethatcher?


That is a groomer and it would be best to find the part number. Here is a link to look at, set the serial of your unit and look in accessories. 
https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=41313


----------



## TNTurf

Has anyone owned both a Flex 21 and a GM 1000 that can compare the two?


----------



## cwrx82

gsmornot said:


> Has anyone owned both a Flex 21 and a GM 1000 that can compare the two?


Anything in particular you're wanting to know? I've had a GM1000 and currently have two Flex 2100's. The 2100's are different than the Flex 21, but similar units.


----------



## TNTurf

cwrx82 said:


> gsmornot said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone owned both a Flex 21 and a GM 1000 that can compare the two?
> 
> 
> 
> Anything in particular you're wanting to know? I've had a GM1000 and currently have two Flex 2100's. The 2100's are different than the Flex 21, but similar units.
Click to expand...

Anything you want to share is fine by me. I'm not sure I need both but want to use both to compare. Maybe my Flex 21 is already a better option and I dont need to waste my time with the GM 1000. Anything anyone wants to share about the two is fine by me. I am waiting to hear if the price is right then decide if its something I want. Maybe you already know I dont need it and I move on. Like I said, anything you want to share as a comparison is fine with me.


----------



## cwrx82

gsmornot said:


> cwrx82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gsmornot said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone owned both a Flex 21 and a GM 1000 that can compare the two?
> 
> 
> 
> Anything in particular you're wanting to know? I've had a GM1000 and currently have two Flex 2100's. The 2100's are different than the Flex 21, but similar units.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Anything you want to share is fine by me. I'm not sure I need both but want to use both to compare. Maybe my Flex 21 is already a better option and I dont need to waste my time with the GM 1000. Anything anyone wants to share about the two is fine by me. I am waiting to hear if the price is right then decide if its something I want. Maybe you already know I dont need it and I move on. Like I said, anything you want to share as a comparison is fine with me.
Click to expand...

I think that if you're happy with your Flex, then stay with that unless you find a great deal on a GM1000.

For me, I love the Flex and it moves around much more easily, the head pivots, and the cutting unit can be separated to take it to be sharpened. The low HOC can be a drawback, but I haven't had any issues with it at all. Also, I have a 14-blade reel, which leaves washboarding.

For the GM1000, I loved it too, but it was a bit of a pain to move around when the reel was engaged and I needed to turn around. It never left any washboarding at any HOC I was at. I did swap to an 8-blade reel and it did great. It'd be nice if you didn't have to take the entire mower when getting a reel grind.

Overall, both machines are great and will get the job done, it just comes down to personal preference.


----------



## Jstein1

Hi everyone,new to the forum.
Thanks to everyone in this thread for all the information that is posted! I picked up a 2006 Toro greensmaster 18 flex last month for $400. Checked the oil and transmission fluid, adjusted the real to bed knife (cuts paper perfectly). Starts on second pull, couldn't be happier with this machine.
Need to do some leveling of the lawn (zoysia), but still took it down to .5" and the flex went easily over irregularities I have. 
If anyone here could let me know thier opinion on if they think I might need to replace the reel (the bed knife adjustment bolts look like they might be getting to thier max) haven't measured the reel circumference yet. 
Any other tips or info would be appreciated,thanks in advance.


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

Anyone ever tore into the gear case on a flex21? Older model? Mine is blowing trans fluid out of the seal on top where the linkage goes into the case and is starting not to pull very good.


----------



## TNTurf

thesouthernreelmower said:


> Anyone ever tore into the gear case on a flex21? Older model? Mine is blowing trans fluid out of the seal on top where the linkage goes into the case and is starting not to pull very good.


I have not opened it but I did replace the oil seal that goes to the shift linkage. When the case was full it would drop trans fluid on the lawn. It was an easy swap. If I had more free time I would have found a seal some place else but instead ordered from Toro for $10. As for not pulling, not sure. I had to adjust my reel cable to make it spin as soon as I engaged the handle but again an easy fix.


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

gsmornot said:


> thesouthernreelmower said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone ever tore into the gear case on a flex21? Older model? Mine is blowing trans fluid out of the seal on top where the linkage goes into the case and is starting not to pull very good.
> 
> 
> 
> I have not opened it but I did replace the oil seal that goes to the shift linkage. When the case was full it would drop trans fluid on the lawn. It was an easy swap. If I had more free time I would have found a seal some place else but instead ordered from Toro for $10. As for not pulling, not sure. I had to adjust my reel cable to make it spin as soon as I engaged the handle but again an easy fix.
Click to expand...

Yeah, mine is leaking trans fluid and it's def the seal on top. I've been using my jd because of the issue. It seems to not pull as good when it gets hot for some reason. I believe all the cables are adjusted right....who knows


----------



## adgattoni

gsmornot said:


> Has anyone owned both a Flex 21 and a GM 1000 that can compare the two?


The reel engagement is different. On the flex you can flip the handle to engage the reel but on a gm1000/1600 you have to engage it down near the reel. Imo that would be a big feature to lose.


----------



## TNTurf

adgattoni said:


> gsmornot said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone owned both a Flex 21 and a GM 1000 that can compare the two?
> 
> 
> 
> The reel engagement is different. On the flex you can flip the handle to engage the reel but on a gm1000/1600 you have to engage it down near the reel. Imo that would be a big feature to lose.
Click to expand...

Good point.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Can anyone tell me how to remove this boot? I would like to use the axle for transport wheels but can't figure out how to remove this piece.


----------



## Oceanus

Please consider adding you purchases to the new Mower Purchase List 3000


----------



## TNTurf

MeanDean said:


> Can anyone tell me how to remove this boot? I would like to use the axle for transport wheels but can't figure out how to remove this piece.


Hard to tell for sure but looks like the clip is still in there. Use a pick or flat blade screwdriver and pry up the clip inside the slot. Once that's off it should slip off the axle. If it does not rust is holding it on. Pull harder or grab in that slot there and use a 2 jaw puller. Mine were rusted on.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Is the HOC on the gm1000 the true height it'll mow or bench height?

I ask because I mowed yesterday with my Gm1000 and today ran back over the same area with my TC and while the heights were the same on my gauge the TC cut shorter.

I figured the weight of the Toro would cause the gauged reading to be much different than the actual cut.


----------



## TNTurf

MeanDean said:


> Is the HOC on the gm1000 the true height it'll mow or bench height?
> 
> I ask because I mowed yesterday with my Gm1000 and today ran back over the same area with my TC and while the heights were the same on my gauge the TC cut shorter.
> 
> I figured the weight of the Toro would cause the gauged reading to be much different than the actual cut.


I wonder what the TC measures on the ground vs tilted back. Mine is loose enough to measure different I bet. Prior to having a gage I would measure on the ground reaching though the reel and placing a block of wood in front of the bedknife. Nothing I could really do about side to side but I used it to measure the center. Once I had a reference I knew each hole on the handle was 1/8 (for the most part). Finding 3/4 and 1/2 with plywood cut-offs got me close. Once I got the Toro I adjusted to match the height of the TC so that I could use both on the front. It was easier to set the Toro to match since its so much more adjustable.


----------



## Sparton

Fellow TLFs I just recently got my flex 21. Had my inaugural mow with it last night. During the mow I saw a little bit of fluid coming from this seal on the gear box. Has anyone had to rebuild the gear box or replace this seal? Can the seal be replaced without taking the gearbox out of the mower ?


----------



## TNTurf

Sparton said:


> Fellow TLFs I just recently got my flex 21. Had my inaugural mow with it last night. During the mow I saw a little bit of fluid coming from this seal on the gear box. Has anyone had to rebuild the gear box or replace this seal? Can the seal be replaced without taking the gearbox out of the mower ?


I have not done that one yet, I replaced one on the other side (top) for the drive selector. My guess is that you will need to remove the drive gear on that end, unbolt the engine, and slide everything over to free the end of the drive shaft so you can get the new seal on around the axel. Not having tried it yet and not knowing the clearance it might be that you can disconnect the gearbox from the engine, rotate it backwards, then move it side to side and leave the engine in place. If that is the case I would remove it from the frame and replace every seal on the bench including the ones on each end of the drive shaft. If you tackle this I would like to see at least a few photos if you would share them here.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@Sparton Do you know how long that sat before you got it? I have not run across this with mine, but the service manual states all over that the types of seals used on these may have a bit of fluid leak around them.


----------



## Jstein1

@Sparton when I got my flex 18 last month the seal leaked a small amount for the first couple of uses,but has since stopped.


----------



## Sparton

@tntturf @reellowdad @jstein1 thank yall for the quick responses. I'm not really sure how long it set prior to me purchasing it. The golf course I bought it from upgraded all their mowers about 6 months prior but it could have been taken out of use prior to that. How long does it take gasoline to turn into a jelly ? Lol

It definitely leaks more than it should.I'll mow again with it and chance it getting on the grass before I change it.

I ordered the seal today from prairie turf. I'll keep y'all posted and take some pictures


----------



## Keepin It Reel

How many here get these lines from mowing and what can help prevent them? I don't think it's leveling alone. My front lawn has been leveled and today it still left these ridges everywhere. I had to go back over each pass with the Tru Cut just to clean things up.

Picture is my backyard for reference. I measured gauged the hoc and it was even on both sides.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Anyone have a Toro with the front roller extension kit?


----------



## Sparton

To answer my own question and anyone else's, yes you can replace the axle seals on a flex 21 gear box without removing the gearbox and cracking it open. @Reel Low Dad 


Start by draining the fluids and removing the drum belt


Then remove the upper pulley and bearing assembly. This will allow you to replace the seal without pulling the gearbox and motor.


Remove the snap ring around the seal and drill in some self tapping screws into the old seal


Pry or pull old oil seal until it comes out.




Slide new seal in place


I had to use some scrap pvc pipe and a black iron coupling to fully seat the new seal using the nut that holds on the upper pulley.

After that it's all re assembly and filling the gearbox back up with fluids. Hopefully the helps someone out. Took me about an hour.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

@Sparton Awesome work. Thanks for the pics. Ingenious way to press in the seal.


----------



## Desing

I'm hoping one of y'all will be able to help me out with an issue I've been having.

Currently, my mower has randomly decided that it can no longer spin the reel. When I engage the clutch, the belt will just spin on the pulley and will not spin the reel or is VERY reluctant to spin the reel.

This seems like a lack of tension in the belt, but the belt has the maximum amount of tension (as well as the clutch) so I cannot tighten this anymore. The belt was replaced 2 months ago in May from R&R products. I am 95% sure I purchased the right belt, but I am not sure if there is minor differences between model years (like 1mm or something?)

My other thought would be the reel bearings have gone bad causing a lot of Torque to Turn friction / overall grit in the reel spinning. The reel is noticeably gritty to spin by hand, but has always been like that when it was previously running well.

I have checked the reel to bed-knife contact and that is good. I even loosened it up completely and was able to get the reel to spin for about 5 seconds before it slowly stopped (also confusing because this means it may not be a Torque to Turn issue..)

If the reel is not engaged, the belt/pulley can propel the mower with the drum just fine with no issues. This has led me to believe the root cause is something within the reel but I am not sure.

The mower was running fine for the last 2 months, then this came out of no where so I am puzzled on the root cause.

Has anyone else experienced this issue?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## ctrav

Desing said:


> I'm hoping one of y'all will be able to help me out with an issue I've been having.
> 
> Currently, my mower has randomly decided that it can no longer spin the reel. When I engage the clutch, the belt will just spin on the pulley and will not spin the reel or is VERY reluctant to spin the reel.
> 
> This seems like a lack of tension in the belt, but the belt has the maximum amount of tension (as well as the clutch) so I cannot tighten this anymore. The belt was replaced 2 months ago in May from R&R products. I am 95% sure I purchased the right belt, but I am not sure if there is minor differences between model years (like 1mm or something?)
> 
> My other thought would be the reel bearings have gone bad causing a lot of Torque to Turn friction / overall grit in the reel spinning. The reel is noticeably gritty to spin by hand, but has always been like that when it was previously running well.
> 
> I have checked the reel to bed-knife contact and that is good. I even loosened it up completely and was able to get the reel to spin for about 5 seconds before it slowly stopped (also confusing because this means it may not be a Torque to Turn issue..)
> 
> If the reel is not engaged, the belt/pulley can propel the mower with the drum just fine with no issues. This has led me to believe the root cause is something within the reel but I am not sure.
> 
> The mower was running fine for the last 2 months, then this came out of no where so I am puzzled on the root cause.
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this issue?
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!


When I replaced my belts a few weeks back I replaced the bearings at the same time. Seems like something to try?


----------



## Desing

ctrav said:


> When I replaced my belts a few weeks back I replaced the bearings at the same time. Seems like something to try?


That's what I was afraid of. Where did you get your bearings? Was it pretty easy to install?

I am assuming I will need to replace the seals with the bearings.


----------



## ctrav

Desing said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> When I replaced my belts a few weeks back I replaced the bearings at the same time. Seems like something to try?
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I was afraid of. Where did you get your bearings? Was it pretty easy to install?
> 
> I am assuming I will need to replace the seals with the bearings.
Click to expand...

I would just go thru R&R as that may be the quickest. Here in the DFW area we have a Toro supply house. Yes I did the seals and bearings at the same time. I have no idea how easy it was as I have a guy to work on it at the golf course. I also replaced the pulley on one side...





My total bill was like $120 or so...


----------



## cwrx82

Desing said:


> I'm hoping one of y'all will be able to help me out with an issue I've been having.
> 
> Currently, my mower has randomly decided that it can no longer spin the reel. When I engage the clutch, the belt will just spin on the pulley and will not spin the reel or is VERY reluctant to spin the reel.
> 
> This seems like a lack of tension in the belt, but the belt has the maximum amount of tension (as well as the clutch) so I cannot tighten this anymore. The belt was replaced 2 months ago in May from R&R products. I am 95% sure I purchased the right belt, but I am not sure if there is minor differences between model years (like 1mm or something?)
> 
> My other thought would be the reel bearings have gone bad causing a lot of Torque to Turn friction / overall grit in the reel spinning. The reel is noticeably gritty to spin by hand, but has always been like that when it was previously running well.
> 
> I have checked the reel to bed-knife contact and that is good. I even loosened it up completely and was able to get the reel to spin for about 5 seconds before it slowly stopped (also confusing because this means it may not be a Torque to Turn issue..)
> 
> If the reel is not engaged, the belt/pulley can propel the mower with the drum just fine with no issues. This has led me to believe the root cause is something within the reel but I am not sure.
> 
> The mower was running fine for the last 2 months, then this came out of no where so I am puzzled on the root cause.
> 
> Has anyone else experienced this issue?
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!


Is the inside of the belt (part that contacts the pulley) worn out or are the teeth still there?

As for the bearings, are you able to move the reel back and forth or is it tight? If it's tight, then they could be ok, but if you're saying they feel gritty then they might be on their way out.


----------



## Desing

cwrx82 said:


> Is the inside of the belt (part that contacts the pulley) worn out or are the teeth still there?
> 
> As for the bearings, are you able to move the reel back and forth or is it tight? If it's tight, then they could be ok, but if you're saying they feel gritty then they might be on their way out.


I should clarify, the belt/pulley I am referring to is the drive pulley from the engine so there are no teeth.

That being said, I am sure there has to be wear on the belt since I have been messing with it trying to get it to engage. While doing this, the belt is just slipping across the pulling probably causing excess wear.

I just double checked the reel movement and there is no movement in the reel at all. It's very tight, but also in terms of rotating by hand. If I try to rotate the reel it seems really stiff for maybe 1-2 turns then all of a sudden it will break free for 1 turn then become tight again. Hopefully that makes sense..


----------



## cwrx82

Desing said:


> cwrx82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is the inside of the belt (part that contacts the pulley) worn out or are the teeth still there?
> 
> As for the bearings, are you able to move the reel back and forth or is it tight? If it's tight, then they could be ok, but if you're saying they feel gritty then they might be on their way out.
> 
> 
> 
> I should clarify, the belt/pulley I am referring to is the drive pulley from the engine so there are no teeth.
> 
> That being said, I am sure there has to be wear on the belt since I have been messing with it trying to get it to engage. While doing this, the belt is just slipping across the pulling probably causing excess wear.
> 
> I just double checked the reel movement and there is no movement in the reel at all. It's very tight, but also in terms of rotating by hand. If I try to rotate the reel it seems really stiff for maybe 1-2 turns then all of a sudden it will break free for 1 turn then become tight again. Hopefully that makes sense..
Click to expand...

None of the blades on the reel are bent and contacting the bedknife or anything else?

I bought those belts from R&R and they were tight, but never had any issues with them.


----------



## Pamboys09

cwrx82 said:


> Desing said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cwrx82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is the inside of the belt (part that contacts the pulley) worn out or are the teeth still there?
> 
> As for the bearings, are you able to move the reel back and forth or is it tight? If it's tight, then they could be ok, but if you're saying they feel gritty then they might be on their way out.
> 
> 
> 
> I should clarify, the belt/pulley I am referring to is the drive pulley from the engine so there are no teeth.
> 
> That being said, I am sure there has to be wear on the belt since I have been messing with it trying to get it to engage. While doing this, the belt is just slipping across the pulling probably causing excess wear.
> 
> I just double checked the reel movement and there is no movement in the reel at all. It's very tight, but also in terms of rotating by hand. If I try to rotate the reel it seems really stiff for maybe 1-2 turns then all of a sudden it will break free for 1 turn then become tight again. Hopefully that makes sense..
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> None of the blades on the reel are bent and contacting the bedknife or anything else?
> 
> I bought those belts from R&R and they were tight, but never had any issues with them.
Click to expand...

Bought belt from R&R and notice the belt are tight, that even i engage the brake the greens mower still moves forward(gas not engage), i need to lower the trottle in order to properly work. Anyone experience these issue? Im possitive i order the right stuff.

Edit: im talking about the VBelt


----------



## virginiabri

Hey there, @sparton. I have the top seal also leaking on my Flex 21 and it looks like the one you have referenced above. How hard or easy was that to replace? Do you have to take the transmission apart to replace it?


----------



## Sparton

virginiabri said:


> Hey there, @sparton. I have the top seal also leaking on my Flex 21 and it looks like the one you have referenced above. How hard or easy was that to replace? Do you have to take the transmission apart to replace it?


No sir it can stay in the mower. Basically you just remove the drive pulley assembly from the axle then slide it down. Make sure you have a good pair of snap ring pliers that have the tips at a 90 degree angle and some 1 inch self tapping sheet metal screws.


----------



## Buddy

Saw this greensmaster being sold locally to me for $500. Includes basket but no transport wheels. Anyone have an idea on the possible year? Probably an older unit ?


----------



## ctrav

Buddy said:


> Saw this greensmaster being sold locally to me for $500. Includes basket but no transport wheels. Anyone have an idea on the possible year? Probably an older unit ?


There should be silver tag on the back with a model and serial number. You can tell the year from the serial number itself...


----------



## Buddy

ctrav said:


> Buddy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Saw this greensmaster being sold locally to me for $500. Includes basket but no transport wheels. Anyone have an idea on the possible year? Probably an older unit ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There should be silver tag on the back with a model and serial number. You can tell the year from the serial number itself...
Click to expand...

Maybe a 2004 based on the first two digits?


----------



## TNTurf

Buddy said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Buddy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Saw this greensmaster being sold locally to me for $500. Includes basket but no transport wheels. Anyone have an idea on the possible year? Probably an older unit ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There should be silver tag on the back with a model and serial number. You can tell the year from the serial number itself...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Maybe a 2004 based on the first two digits?
Click to expand...

It will be in the 90's. The first part is the model, after the dash is the serial. 2000 forward starts with a 2 on the serial, at 2010 they start with a 3 followed by a two digit year. My Flex serial starts with 24 so it would be a 2004 model. If you see 311 it would be a 2011. Hope that helps.

Edit: I should have added not to let the age itself scare you if the price is right. A 2015 model could be beat up due to misuse where a 2001 model could have been well cared for. These things are made for daily use for years. If you find it in good condition and you're able to work on the parts that are not you will have a good mower.


----------



## Buddy

TNTurf said:


> Buddy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> There should be silver tag on the back with a model and serial number. You can tell the year from the serial number itself...
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a 2004 based on the first two digits?
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It will be in the 90's. The first part is the model, after the dash is the serial. 2000 forward starts with a 2 on the serial, at 2010 they start with a 3 followed by a two digit year. My Flex serial starts with 24 so it would be a 2004 model. If you see 311 it would be a 2011. Hope that helps.
> 
> Edit: I should have added not to let the age itself scare you if the price is right. A 2015 model could be beat up due to misuse where a 2001 model could have been well cared for. These things are made for daily use for years. If you find it in good condition and you're able to work on the parts that are not you will have a good mower.
Click to expand...

This particular unit is close in distance to me, and they are asking $500 including the catch basket, no transport wheels. Found a newer model it seems about 1.5 hrs away with basket and wheels asking $850. Not sure if either price is negotiable as I haven't gone that far.


----------



## thegardentool

MeanDean said:


> Can anyone tell me how to remove this boot? I would like to use the axle for transport wheels but can't figure out how to remove this piece.


If you have not figured it out yet, those look like they are the same kind of wheels meant for the trailer that came with my GM1000. There should be a cotter pin on each wheel that you remove then the wheel should slide right off the axle. Unfortunately I have misplaced those pins so I can't take a picture for you.


----------



## coachemf

I'm looking for some help diagnosing, and pointing me in the right direction on a problem with my GM 1000. Was mowing today, and the drive quit working. The reel still engages. I finished my last strip by just pushing it.

After getting into it, all of the belts are still in solid condition, and I think I have it narrowed down to where the issue is. The sprocket is not engaging in the pictures below. Any help pointing me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Desing

Hoping someone can help me out.

I was browsing R&R and noticed that there are 2 different part numbers for my model year Engine Belts.. I bought the first image (set of 2) and these seem to be too large (not enough tension to engage reel).. So I'm hoping the other ones may be correct.

Anyone else notice this before? Which ones are the correct belts to buy?



Or


----------



## Desing

Desing said:


> Hoping someone can help me out.
> 
> I was browsing R&R and noticed that there are 2 different part numbers for my model year Engine Belts.. I bought the first image (set of 2) and these seem to be too large (not enough tension to engage reel).. So I'm hoping the other ones may be correct.
> 
> Anyone else notice this before? Which ones are the correct belts to buy?


So update in case anyone else is interested:

I called R&R and they do not have the Set of 2 (R&R# R92-9218) listed for a GM1000..They did have the R150526 listed though.

However, I called Toro support and they listed the Toro part number as 92-9218..

So not sure which would be the correct belt..


----------



## ctrav

Desing said:


> Desing said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hoping someone can help me out.
> 
> I was browsing R&R and noticed that there are 2 different part numbers for my model year Engine Belts.. I bought the first image (set of 2) and these seem to be too large (not enough tension to engage reel).. So I'm hoping the other ones may be correct.
> 
> Anyone else notice this before? Which ones are the correct belts to buy?
> 
> 
> 
> So update in case anyone else is interested:
> 
> I called R&R and they do not have the Set of 2 (R&R# R92-9218) listed for a GM1000..They did have the R150526 listed though.
> 
> However, I called Toro support and they listed the Toro part number as 92-9218..
> 
> So not sure which would be the correct belt..
Click to expand...

I would get the part that Toro support suggests...


----------



## Desing

ctrav said:


> I would get the part that Toro support suggests...


I agree, that's the belt I purchased 2 months ago and installed so I already have it.

Still trying to figure out this why the reel doesn't want to engage... Was hoping my dumb self bought the wrong belt but it doesn't look like it.


----------



## ctrav

Desing said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would get the part that Toro support suggests...
> 
> 
> 
> I agree, that's the belt I purchased 2 months ago and installed so I already have it.
> 
> Still trying to figure out this why the reel doesn't want to engage... Was hoping my dumb self bought the wrong belt but it doesn't look like it.
Click to expand...

When I replaced mine I also had to replace the pulley and gasket...


----------



## Keepin It Reel

thegardentool said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me how to remove this boot? I would like to use the axle for transport wheels but can't figure out how to remove this piece.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have not figured it out yet, those look like they are the same kind of wheels meant for the trailer that came with my GM1000. There should be a cotter pin on each wheel that you remove then the wheel should slide right off the axle. Unfortunately I have misplaced those pins so I can't take a picture for you.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I sold the mower today but I did figure out how to remove that wheel.


----------



## FATC1TY

Joined the group- GM1600 w/ 8 blade and carbide groomer.

Not impressed with how it handles near my driveway, gonna have to use another mower or edger to clean up the 3-5 inches the mower won't get due to the drop off from the sidewalk.


----------



## TNTurf

FATC1TY said:


> Joined the group- GM1600 w/ 8 blade and carbide groomer.
> 
> Not impressed with how it handles near my driveway, gonna have to use another mower or edger to clean up the 3-5 inches the mower won't get due to the drop off from the sidewalk.


Sweet! I'm still looking for one of those. I like my Flex 21 but would like to have a wider fixed head to go with it.


----------



## shmiggz

Pamboys09 said:


> shmiggz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we have the same issue? Any luck solving these??
> 
> I remove parking break and the reel(the handles close to the cutting unit) but still giving me resistant when pushing.
> 
> 
> 
> Pamboys09, does yours move when you engage the clutch? My machine seems to be fully operational other than when it's off. I haven't had too much time to look at it lately.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Mine move when use gas/clutch, the one im concern is when its off and moving from my garage to the lawn, its kinda giving me resistance.
> 
> I email toro tech support and they told me thats normal,. When moving my mower from kne place to another he told me use the engine and transport wheels.
Click to expand...

I finally figured out what the issue was and it's definitely something I should have figured out much sooner! The parking brake was stuck in the on position. Evidently the cable needed a little lube. After forcing the cable/brake off, it rolls like it should. Hope this helps anyone else that comes across this issue.


----------



## FATC1TY

shmiggz said:


> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shmiggz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Pamboys09, does yours move when you engage the clutch? My machine seems to be fully operational other than when it's off. I haven't had too much time to look at it lately.
> 
> 
> 
> Mine move when use gas/clutch, the one im concern is when its off and moving from my garage to the lawn, its kinda giving me resistance.
> 
> I email toro tech support and they told me thats normal,. When moving my mower from kne place to another he told me use the engine and transport wheels.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I finally figured out what the issue was and it's definitely something I should have figured out much sooner! The parking brake was stuck in the on position. Evidently the cable needed a little lube. After forcing the cable/brake off, it rolls like it should. Hope this helps anyone else that comes across this issue.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Having only had this machine for a day I noticed my parking brake does.... nothing. Wonder if it's off or on?


----------



## FATC1TY

TNTurf said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joined the group- GM1600 w/ 8 blade and carbide groomer.
> 
> Not impressed with how it handles near my driveway, gonna have to use another mower or edger to clean up the 3-5 inches the mower won't get due to the drop off from the sidewalk.
> 
> 
> 
> Sweet! I'm still looking for one of those. I like my Flex 21 but would like to have a wider fixed head to go with it.
Click to expand...

I'll say one thing, I just scalped with it this evening. It's a quiet smooth machine. Really just hums thro the grass and provides a decent cut. I can see a fair bit of difference between it and my Trucut. Which I planned to sell, but might have to keep for edging duty. Also my hell strip by the road is only like 23 inches wide. This 1600 won't fit!


----------



## Talental

Hey, my gas line from the tank down just got a big hole in it. I have the toro gm1000. 
What size hose is this? 
Where can I order one from?


----------



## TNTurf

Talental said:


> Hey, my gas line from the tank down just got a big hole in it. I have the toro gm1000.
> What size hose is this?
> Where can I order one from?


If you want the correct hose, Jacks Small Engines. Look on the back of the engine cover for your engine model which tells you the age. Most are the same but its there. Option two is an auto parts store. Take off your line and take it with you to match up.


----------



## TNTurf

FATC1TY said:


> shmiggz said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Mine move when use gas/clutch, the one im concern is when its off and moving from my garage to the lawn, its kinda giving me resistance.
> 
> I email toro tech support and they told me thats normal,. When moving my mower from kne place to another he told me use the engine and transport wheels.
> 
> 
> 
> I finally figured out what the issue was and it's definitely something I should have figured out much sooner! The parking brake was stuck in the on position. Evidently the cable needed a little lube. After forcing the cable/brake off, it rolls like it should. Hope this helps anyone else that comes across this issue.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Interesting. Having only had this machine for a day I noticed my parking brake does.... nothing. Wonder if it's off or on?
Click to expand...

With the reel disengaged, can you roll it around? If so, the brake is off.


----------



## Oceanus

Anyone know what year Toro started offering the Subaru EX13 engine?

I found a news report from March 2012

Thanks in advance!


----------



## TheTurfTamer

Oceanus said:


> Anyone know what year Toro started offering the Subaru EX13 engine?
> 
> I found a news report from March 2012
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I have a 2016 Flex 2120-14blade .My service manual states 2012 as well. Not sure if there is a crossover from 2012-2013. I do know there is a serial number change with the Subaru update and the removal of all the grease fittings. Lots of other changes. Too many to list.


----------



## TNTurf

Kind of a dumb question/idea. The hill on the side of my house is steep and pushes the rear roller to keep traction. How dumb would it be you think to find a set of transport wheels and use them on the hill? Aired down they would offer traction without changing too much the operation of the cutting unit since it has flexibility. I have no idea if it would work but if it did it could solve some issues with getting up and down the hill. Asking because I would have to buy some to try it but if its too dumb an idea I will skip it.


----------



## Kmartel

Installed this clip kit ($57 eBay) on my 11 blade flex 21. Super easy to do, 5-10 minutes.

Mowed 1 time with it so far, not sure how much of a difference it made ( maxed out hoc with groomer, around .4"). I am going to start tweaking with my mowing height (lowering) to see if I can find a good balance. If not I will put an 8 blade reel in over the winter. I will keep you updated on the clip kit.


----------



## TNTurf

Kmartel said:


> Installed this clip kit ($57 eBay) on my 11 blade flex 21. Super easy to do, 5-10 minutes.
> 
> Mowed 1 time with it so far, not sure how much of a difference it made ( maxed out hoc with groomer, around .4"). I am going to start tweaking with my mowing height (lowering) to see if I can find a good balance. If not I will put an 8 blade reel in over the winter. I will keep you updated on the clip kit.


I have the same one on my Flex. I also have the high height of cut kit but have it set to .500. No waviness in the lawn and so far nothing that tells me I should have an 8 blade reel.


----------



## adgattoni

Ware said:


> wardconnor said:
> 
> 
> 
> So are these the 2 nuts that needs wrenches to remove transport axle? The one the wrench is on and the other one that my finger is on?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In between the frame and the drive roller - it is a 1" I think.
> 
> Also, I believe the axle on the right side of the machine (from operator position) is left-hand/reverse threaded.
Click to expand...

Do you have to take off the roller for this? I can't get a wrench to fit in there.


----------



## Pamboys09

TNTurf said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> shmiggz said:
> 
> 
> 
> I finally figured out what the issue was and it's definitely something I should have figured out much sooner! The parking brake was stuck in the on position. Evidently the cable needed a little lube. After forcing the cable/brake off, it rolls like it should. Hope this helps anyone else that comes across this issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting. Having only had this machine for a day I noticed my parking brake does.... nothing. Wonder if it's off or on?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> With the reel disengaged, can you roll it around? If so, the brake is off.
Click to expand...

I definitely need to check my parking brake.. give you guys an update.

But as of now, its giving me a few resistance whenever i push manually (machine off, reel off, brake off)


----------



## Hadendm

Headed to pick up my new to me GM1000 tomorrow. Can the handle be disassembled easily to fit in the back of a suburban? Or should I pull a small trailer to get it?


----------



## Sfurunner13

Has anyone heard of a high cut roller adjustment kit for a GM 1600? Looking at a used 1600 online that has that kit advertised indicting it can cut up to 1.5 -2 inches. I can't seem to find it anywhere else so I'm slightly skeptical.


----------



## TNTurf

Hadendm said:


> Headed to pick up my new to me GM1000 tomorrow. Can the handle be disassembled easily to fit in the back of a suburban? Or should I pull a small trailer to get it?


I guess you know by now you can get it in the back with the handle on and tilted back. Too bad you didn't;t get a reply sooner.


----------



## TNTurf

Sfurunner13 said:


> Has anyone heard of a high cut roller adjustment kit for a GM 1600? Looking at a used 1600 online that has that kit advertised indicting it can cut up to 1.5 -2 inches. I can't seem to find it anywhere else so I'm slightly skeptical.


Part 99-4286 is the high height of cut kit for this mower. Had to look for it because I could not image someone wanting 2 inch cut. Ha.


----------



## Sfurunner13

Thank you! I've never seen that option before probably for that reason .


----------



## Socks

I came across this listing for a GM 1000 today. Looks extremely clean and the price just seems pretty good. I'm a TTTF lawn so no use for it (for now...) so I thought I'd share the posting.

https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/for/d/camp-dennison-toro-golf-green-mower/6953920488.html


----------



## adgattoni

Socks said:


> I came across this listing for a GM 1000 today. Looks extremely clean and the price just seems pretty good. I'm a TTTF lawn so no use for it (for now...) so I thought I'd share the posting.
> 
> https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/for/d/camp-dennison-toro-golf-green-mower/6953920488.html


I don't know if I've ever seen one that clean at that price. I'd go for it. FYI @g-man reel mows his TTTF.


----------



## Socks

Really? I didn't know you could maintain TTTF that low. His lawn journal is like heaven - I will be reading through that :thumbup:


----------



## g-man

@Socks I could see the shine in the reel edge like it was recently relief grind. I would ask if there is anything wrong with it or why is he selling it and invite him to TLF. He has a backyard putting green. For $500 it looks reel good. I'm sure some of the cincy members will make an offer if you pass on it.

FYI I have a northern mix of a lawn that I reel mow. I'm not sure if I would reel mow a 100% TTTF.


----------



## Scalper007

Found a new carb for my Greensmaster 1000 Kawasaki engine. Now I need what appears the gasket insulator. Looked online but not finding much. Any ideas where the part can be purchased or do I need to call Toro?


----------



## Socks

@g-man I'm getting more information, including hours. I believe it is 98. He said it was previous at a TPC golf course and he got it 5 years ago.

If I can get a good enough deal I might just grab it for a project (maybe it will even lead me to do a Reno I can use it on  )


----------



## adgattoni

Socks said:


> @g-man I'm getting more information, including hours. I believe it is 98. He said it was previous at a TPC golf course and he got it 5 years ago.
> 
> If I can get a good enough deal I might just grab it for a project (maybe it will even lead me to do a Reno I can use it on  )


You will probably never find one in that condition for that price again. The only equivalently maintained ones I've seen come from places like prairie turf equipment, and they would charge $2-3k for it.


----------



## TNTurf

Scalper007 said:


> Found a new carb for my Greensmaster 1000 Kawasaki engine. Now I need what appears the gasket insulator. Looked online but not finding much. Any ideas where the part can be purchased or do I need to call Toro?


Look on Jacks Small Engines. They have parts for pretty much everything on the engine.


----------



## Buddy

Found this reel mower about 1.hrs from me. Looks clean and to be in good shape? I don't have the serial number, anyone have rough idea on the year? Thoughts on this unit that I'm considering for around $600


----------



## Oceanus

Buddy said:


> Found this reel mower about 1.5grs from me. Looks clean and to be in good shape? I don't have the serial number, anyone have rough idea on the year? Thoughts on this unit that I'm considering for around $600


I associate that 'cylindrical' muffler with 2001 and older. Also the 'large' 1000 is older. 
Looks pretty good for age, but I think there is a thread on how to inspect a mower. 
Assuming it starts/runs
1) Look at reel
2) paper cut test
3) remove belt covers


----------



## Buddy

Oceanus said:


> Buddy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Found this reel mower about 1.5grs from me. Looks clean and to be in good shape? I don't have the serial number, anyone have rough idea on the year? Thoughts on this unit that I'm considering for around $600
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I associate that 'cylindrical' muffler with 2001 and older. Also the 'large' 1000 is older.
> Looks pretty good for age, but I think there is a thread on how to inspect a mower.
> Assuming it starts/runs
> 1) Look at reel
> 2) paper cut test
> 3) remove belt covers
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'm new to reel mowers and might jump on this as there are not many in my area in this price range. All suggestions lead to running it, checking reel, paper cut etc


----------



## rob13psu

Newest addition to the family.


----------



## Ware

rob13psu said:


> Newest addition to the family.


Congrats!


----------



## Oceanus

rob13psu said:


> Newest addition to the family.


I bought a mower from them last week and it was supposed ship Friday but didn't... Did you happen to see one on a pallet ready to ship?


----------



## rob13psu

Oceanus said:


> rob13psu said:
> 
> 
> 
> Newest addition to the family.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a mower from them last week and it was supposed ship Friday but didn't... Did you happen to see one on a pallet ready to ship?
Click to expand...

I did not, but I purchased it a couple of weeks ago. They had one there and I'm assuming that's the one they're shipping.


----------



## Oceanus

thanks for the reassurance. hope it looks as good as yours 

Oh, please consider adding to the MPL3K (link in sig)


----------



## Mondeh6

Howdy, 
looking to get as much info on a recent purchase.
Would like to know things like the year it was most likely manufactured.
Its a Toro Greens Master 1600.


----------



## Babameca

@r@rob13psu What year is this?


----------



## rob13psu

Babameca said:


> @[email protected] What year is this?


It is a 2004.


----------



## Oceanus

rob13psu said:


> Babameca said:
> 
> 
> 
> @[email protected] What year is this?
> 
> 
> 
> It is a 2004.
Click to expand...

No, it a 2013 or newer (can tell by the Subaru engine). Post an image of the serial tag, probably a 04055-313*


----------



## rob13psu

Oceanus said:


> rob13psu said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Babameca said:
> 
> 
> 
> @[email protected] What year is this?
> 
> 
> 
> It is a 2004.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No, it a 2013 or newer (can tell by the Subaru engine). Post an image of the serial tag, probably a 04055-313*
Click to expand...

Interesting. I'll double check when I get home, but the ad on Turfnet said 2004.


----------



## Mondeh6

@Oceanus it has a Kawasaki engine.


----------



## Oceanus

rob13psu's GM1000 has a Subaru engine and therefore a 2013+
I suspect model 04055, and SN 313* (2013)

Mondeh6's GM1600 is a 1997 based on serial and those had Kawasaki engines
04060 = model GM1600, SN starting with 7* implies 1997

Most of this knowledge was gained by reading this topic and similar equipment discussion. I also own a 04060 and a 04055.


----------



## rob13psu

Oceanus said:


> rob13psu's GM1000 has a Subaru engine and therefore a 2013+
> I suspect model 04055, and SN 313* (2013)
> 
> Mondeh6's GM1600 is a 1997 based on serial and those had Kawasaki engines
> 04060 = model GM1600, SN starting with 7* implies 1997
> 
> Most of this knowledge was gained by reading this topic and similar equipment discussion. I also own a 04060 and a 04055.


You are correct on the model number (04055) and SN (313).

When you receive yours definitely go ahead and clean the jet pilot. @dfw_pilot has some good info at the beginning of the thread on how to clean it out. It was surging like crazy and this fixed the issue. I also had some oil leaking onto the drum and was worried that I needed to replace the gaskets, but it was just a loose oil drain plug.


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Had this delivered this morning. Looking forward to using it. Looks like it is a '14 with 297 hours on it (not sure how reliable that is, or any indication of anything quite frankly). Cleaned it up this morning and it looks 10x better than when they delivered it. Tuned up and sharpened by the place I bought it from locally.

Quite a different machine than my 20" McClane GM. Felt like a kid at Christmas waiting for it after the guy called last night to tell me it was coming this morning!




Old McClane w/ my custom paint job!


----------



## Mrsamman

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> Had this delivered this morning. Looking forward to using it. Looks like it is a '14 with 297 hours on it (not sure how reliable that is, or any indication of anything quite frankly). Cleaned it up this morning and it looks 10x better than when they delivered it. Tuned up and sharpened by the place I bought it from locally.
> 
> Quite a different machine than my 20" McClane GM. Felt like a kid at Christmas waiting for it after the guy called last night to tell me it was coming this morning!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Old McClane w/ my custom paint job!


Sweet, that is like new. Some golf courses don't have any that nice...
Enjoy

Scott


----------



## Mondeh6

@Oceanus thanks for the info. Will update the spreadsheet. I tuned up the machine and was able to run it today. The spark plug was carbon fouls . Serviced the carb and replaced the gasket between the carb body and the bowl.


----------



## Oceanus

@Mondeh6 Seem's like you're well on your way :thumbup: The Kawasaki's are tough, but the carburetor has frustrated many of us. I've grown increasingly familiar with cleaning the bowl and jet. Know that Jack wants ~$150 for a replacement carb :shock: (unlike a common hondas @ $20), so don't break or lose any pieces.



Mondeh6 said:


> Howdy,
> looking to get as much info on a recent purchase.
> Would like to know things like the year it was most likely manufactured.
> Its a Toro Greens Master 1600.


Ware's first post has some 'required reading' links if you haven't already visited them.


Ware said:


> ...
> This post is a resource to help you locate relevant manuals and documentation for your Toro greensmower.
> 
> Go here and enter your mower's model number (found on the serial number plate attached to the frame). The search result should list the serial number ranges for that particular model number. Make the appropriate selection to access things like the PDF *Operator's Manual* and *Parts Catalog* for your particular mower.
> 
> Go here to download the *Factory Service Manual* for your mower. This detailed manual will provide basically everything you need to know about taking care of your Greensmaster.
> 
> Current production Greensmasters have Subaru engines, but most that are currently on the secondary market are equipped with the *Kawasaki FE120 Engine* . The Service Manual for the Kawasaki engine can be found here (or several other places online with a quick Google search). Most common replacement parts for the Kawasaki engine are readily available from online parts warehouses like Jack's Small Engines
> ...


----------



## Mondeh6

I have, there a lot to cover it was shop class all over again.


----------



## rob13psu




----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Hoping someone will be able to assist with a couple questions I have since taking the new GM for a few spins.
1. Is the reel speed synched with the throttle? If the mower is going at its slowest, will the reel speed coincide with that or is there a fixed speed for the reel? 
2. I think it is referred to as floating. When you are mowing with the GM, do you pull up on the handlebars to prevent the front from bouncing on small bumps that may be present in the lawn. 
Thank you


----------



## Oceanus

Assume these relate to your 2014 GM1000.


MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> Hoping someone will be able to assist with a couple questions I have since taking the new GM for a few spins.
> 1. Is the reel speed synched with the throttle? If the mower is going at its slowest, will the reel speed coincide with that or is there a fixed speed for the reel?


Yes. The blade speed and drive speed are a fixed ratio controlled by the gears & belts on the front left. Research Frequency of Cut.



MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> 2. I think it is referred to as floating. When you are mowing with the GM, do you pull up on the handlebars to prevent the front from bouncing on small bumps that may be present in the lawn.
> Thank you


I'm a little confused. I will share that 'floating head' refers to a mower design that has a cutting head/unit that 'floats' independently of the drive unit (Toro Flex series). Your GM1000 is a 'fixed head' because the cutting and drive mechanism share a single solid (fixed) frame and cannot move independently.

IF your mower is bouncing, slow down. Toro even recommends a slower pace and that a faster pace has minimal benefit.


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Thank you @Oceanus, that is helpful. I was off on the terminology for floating but you answered it with the slowing down comment. I appreciate it.


----------



## Oceanus

@MNlawnguy, also if your yard has "undulating turf" and you have the skills...

https://manuals.toro.com/142424/index.html?rnd=0.41512001906703067#e88f45cd-2196-4291-a872-b2961dacda13


> To avoid scalping on undulating turf, ensure that the roller supports are positioned rearward (the roller closer to the reel).
> 
> Note: The front roller can be put in 3 different positions (Figure 57), depending on the application and needs of the user.
> 
> 
> Use the front position when a groomer is installed.
> 
> Use the middle position without a groomer.
> 
> Use the third position in extremely undulating turf conditions.


undulating turf :lol:


----------



## ctrav

Oceanus said:


> @MNlawnguy, also if your yard has "undulating turf" and you have the skills...
> 
> https://manuals.toro.com/142424/index.html?rnd=0.41512001906703067#e88f45cd-2196-4291-a872-b2961dacda13
> 
> 
> 
> To avoid scalping on undulating turf, ensure that the roller supports are positioned rearward (the roller closer to the reel).
> 
> Note: The front roller can be put in 3 different positions (Figure 57), depending on the application and needs of the user.
> 
> 
> Use the front position when a groomer is installed.
> 
> Use the middle position without a groomer.
> 
> Use the third position in extremely undulating turf conditions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> undulating turf :lol:
Click to expand...

I have felt my roller position should be changed!


----------



## Oceanus

ctrav said:


> I have felt my roller position should be changed!


First, that lawn looks great.

OR... you just need a groomer...

I'm just sharing a link, but yes Toro Turf Quality Control (I made that up) would suggest a better quality of cut by changing to 2nd position.


----------



## ctrav

Oceanus said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have felt my roller position should be changed!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, that lawn looks great.
> 
> OR... you just need a groomer...
> 
> I'm just sharing a link, but yes Toro Turf Quality Control (I made that up) would suggest a better quality of cut by changing to 2nd position.
Click to expand...

Thanks about the lawn! I have seen a post or two where folks are not impressed with groomer? TTQC's (followed your lead) suggestion to go to position 2 is an easy try so I like that approach. Lastly since I'm fairly certain I will maintain the front lawn higher than 1/2" I'm seriously considering an 8 blade reel next season.


----------



## AVguy

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> 2. I think it is referred to as floating. When you are mowing with the GM, do you pull up on the handlebars to prevent the front from bouncing on small bumps that may be present in the lawn.
> Thank you


Slowing down may be a better option, but I do lift on the handle when mine is bumpy. I assume that's why there's slop in the handle mount and a rubber bushing. It acts like a floating head when you lift up so that's what I do.


----------



## FATC1TY

So I got two GM800s I'm working on here.

Not awful shape, the plastic and the black handle rubber is pretty dirty and sticky, and the plastic on the front is cracked, but everything looks fine.

Reels look to be in excellent shape from what I can tell and aside from some rust on the bed bars, those look good.

Ironically, the oil was almost yellow/clear still.... pretty surprising considering these were abandoned.

Anywho- need some help with the carbs I assume. I got one running, just blew out the jet, the tank was clean and didn't have any old fuel in it. It however, will run low when choke is wide open and revs like you wouldn't believe when I have it set correctly. I feel like the throttle doesn't change at all. What should I be looking for there?

The other I can get to fire just a little, and run for maybe 2-4 seconds after a shot of starter fluid in the filter area. It had nasty nasty yellow smelly fuel in the tank. I drained it and the carb. Cleaned the jet as best I could... not sure what next step would be on this one. Any direction ?


----------



## Oceanus

Combustion engine need 2 things; fuel and fire

on #2 you have proof of fire when adding fuel, so your issue is fuel supply. I would start by checking the fuel filter and lines to make sure the new/clean gas is getting to the carb. I start at the fuel tank and follow the gas to the combustion chamber checking/proving each line/function along the path. Pouring over thread you may find some common issues as an alternate starting point. Let us know what you find. Good luck.


----------



## AVguy

ctrav said:


> Oceanus said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MNlawnguy, also if your yard has "undulating turf" and you have the skills...
> 
> https://manuals.toro.com/142424/index.html?rnd=0.41512001906703067#e88f45cd-2196-4291-a872-b2961dacda13
> 
> 
> 
> To avoid scalping on undulating turf, ensure that the roller supports are positioned rearward (the roller closer to the reel).
> 
> Note: The front roller can be put in 3 different positions (Figure 57), depending on the application and needs of the user.
> 
> 
> Use the front position when a groomer is installed.
> 
> Use the middle position without a groomer.
> 
> Use the third position in extremely undulating turf conditions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> undulating turf :lol:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have felt my roller position should be changed!
Click to expand...

ctrav,

It kinda looks in your picture like your front roller is in a position that's not one of the three recommended. Look closely.


----------



## ctrav

AVguy said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oceanus said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MNlawnguy, also if your yard has "undulating turf" and you have the skills...
> 
> https://manuals.toro.com/142424/index.html?rnd=0.41512001906703067#e88f45cd-2196-4291-a872-b2961dacda13
> 
> undulating turf :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> I have felt my roller position should be changed!
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ctrav,
> 
> It kinda looks in your picture like your front roller is in a position that's not one of the three recommended. Look closely.
Click to expand...

Totally agree...any suggestions?


----------



## synergy0852

@ctrav it's really easy to make this change. I just recently did it to my GM1600 and went to the third position shown from the middle position and it made a huge difference in the cut to my eyes. It looks like you have a combination of position one for the roller height adjustment brackets and position 3 for the bracket that the height adjustment sits in. If you don't have a groomer I'd personally start with the middle position and go to the third if you'd don't like that.

When I did mine I loosened the set screws and locking nuts on the roller as it made it easier to take out and put back together and I just re-centered the roller when done and tightened them back up!


----------



## FATC1TY

I wish I could get my roller closer on my 1600. I have a groomer and after seeing my 800s with the roller closer I'm betting that's the ticket.


----------



## ctrav

synergy0852 said:


> @ctrav it's really easy to make this change. I just recently did it to my GM1600 and went to the third position shown from the middle position and it made a huge difference in the cut to my eyes. It looks like you have a combination of position one for the roller height adjustment brackets and position 3 for the bracket that the height adjustment sits in. If you don't have a groomer I'd personally start with the middle position and go to the third if you'd don't like that.
> 
> When I did mine I loosened the set screws and locking nuts on the roller as it made it easier to take out and put back together and I just re-centered the roller when done and tightened them back up!


Great advice...thanks!


----------



## WillyT

I am torn between a GM1000 and a flex 21 and was hoping for some insight. I am mowing at .5 with my cal trimmer but want to keep pushing it shorter (.3/.4). I do have the itch to attempt a putting green (.15/.2) in the back yard next year and my wife is pumped about it. With that said I understand the mechanical difference between the 1000 and flex but wondering which would be better for me. The house is new construction so we have added 8.5 yards of topsoil and sand so far to level but needs a few more. Any thoughts on the two considering the conditions? Thanks


----------



## Oceanus

WillyT said:


> I am torn between a GM1000 and a flex 21 and was hoping for some insight. I am mowing at .5 with my cal trimmer but want to keep pushing it shorter (.3/.4). I do have the itch to attempt a putting green (.15/.2) in the back yard next year and my wife is pumped about it. With that said I understand the mechanical difference between the 1000 and flex but wondering which would be better for me. The house is new construction so we have added 8.5 yards of topsoil and sand so far to level but needs a few more. Any thoughts on the two considering the conditions? Thanks


Fact is they are both very capable of a high quality Micro Cut on a reasonable smooth turf and have an optional 14 blade reels. The Flex would only be needed for "severe undulations at extremely low heights".

IF you're only going to have a single mower I'd be more concerned about ease/difficultly of setting multiple HOC.


----------



## Oceanus

*2013 GM1000 with 'loose' drums/axles; both sides*

Mower is new to me and been like this from start. Has ~400 hrs. Supposedly serviced before purchase. I first noticed while removing the transport shafts. Both sides have same/similar bit of play. It's like they are missing a bushing on the shaft-extention (giggity), but I don't see anything on the parts diagram. When I pulled the covers off it was pretty messy, so I doubt any recent disassembly.

Any restorers have an Idea?


----------



## AVguy

WillyT said:


> I am torn between a GM1000 and a flex 21 and was hoping for some insight. I am mowing at .5 with my cal trimmer but want to keep pushing it shorter (.3/.4). I do have the itch to attempt a putting green (.15/.2) in the back yard next year and my wife is pumped about it. With that said I understand the mechanical difference between the 1000 and flex but wondering which would be better for me. The house is new construction so we have added 8.5 yards of topsoil and sand so far to level but needs a few more. Any thoughts on the two considering the conditions? Thanks


I had both a 1000 and a flex at the same time. Decided the flex was a bit harder to maneuver and the 1000 came with high HOC brackets so I sold the flex. I almost kinda regret it sometimes, but I love my 1000. I also have a tru cut and a manual push reel. Like those too, but they don't compare to the toro. Oh, and I have a 70's Greens Master(two words back then) for restoration that works well, but cuts too low for my current grass. My tendency is to play with the HOC all season. I start at the dirt and hold it under .25" for as long as I can stand it. By september I like to end up around 1.25"

Anyway, it's a personal choice and you'll make the best choice for you. Either will work just fine. Both will also get the job done.


----------



## AVguy

Oceanus said:


> *2013 GM1000 with 'loose' drums/axles; both sides*
> 
> Mower is new to me and been like this from start. Has ~400 hrs. Supposedly serviced before purchase. I first noticed while removing the transport shafts. Both sides have same/similar bit of play. It's like they are missing a bushing on the shaft-extention (giggity), but I don't see anything on the parts diagram. When I pulled the covers off it was pretty messy, so I doubt any recent disassembly.
> 
> Any restorers have an Idea?


sloppy bearings? Is it loose side to side or up and down?


----------



## Oceanus

I'll have to investigate the play a little more. The belts are providing sufficient tension to hold it still and interfere with my quick check. I won't rule out bearings, but it seems early for 2013 with low hours.


----------



## TC2

I'm wondering what people find regarding grass distribution in the catcher? Mine tends to pile up on one side. I've adjusted the grass shield and cutoff bar (which is currently about 1 mm away from the reel) and that's helped a little but it's still not great. Is this normal or is there something else I can adjust?


----------



## Greendoc

Reel is cutting better on one side vs the other.


----------



## TNTurf

AVguy said:


> WillyT said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am torn between a GM1000 and a flex 21 and was hoping for some insight. I am mowing at .5 with my cal trimmer but want to keep pushing it shorter (.3/.4). I do have the itch to attempt a putting green (.15/.2) in the back yard next year and my wife is pumped about it. With that said I understand the mechanical difference between the 1000 and flex but wondering which would be better for me. The house is new construction so we have added 8.5 yards of topsoil and sand so far to level but needs a few more. Any thoughts on the two considering the conditions? Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> I had both a 1000 and a flex at the same time. Decided the flex was a bit harder to maneuver and the 1000 came with high HOC brackets so I sold the flex. I almost kinda regret it sometimes, but I love my 1000. I also have a tru cut and a manual push reel. Like those too, but they don't compare to the toro. Oh, and I have a 70's Greens Master(two words back then) for restoration that works well, but cuts too low for my current grass. My tendency is to play with the HOC all season. I start at the dirt and hold it under .25" for as long as I can stand it. By september I like to end up around 1.25"
> 
> Anyway, it's a personal choice and you'll make the best choice for you. Either will work just fine. Both will also get the job done.
Click to expand...

I have the Flex now and had a couple of Tru Cuts and wish I had one of them now. I will be looking in the spring for another since it does a much better job on the hill on my side yard. I thought about a 25 this time, I have had a 20 and 27 already.


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

I'm looking for info on the flex models and years they made them. I have a flex 21 but I want to know about the newer models and what years to look for if I was to buy a newer one.


----------



## TNTurf

thesouthernreelmower said:


> I'm looking for info on the flex models and years they made them. I have a flex 21 but I want to know about the newer models and what years to look for if I was to buy a newer one.


Maybe 2001-2011? Sometime around there they went to the 2100.


----------



## cwrx82

thesouthernreelmower said:


> I'm looking for info on the flex models and years they made them. I have a flex 21 but I want to know about the newer models and what years to look for if I was to buy a newer one.


I think the 2100 came out in 2012 and the 2120 in 2016. Not completely sure about the 2120, but the 2100 came out when they switched to Subaru.

I have two 2100s and love them. I had a 1000 before the 2100s and prefer the 2100s. I don't think you'd be disappointed going from the 21 to the 2100 or 2120.


----------



## TC2

Greendoc said:


> Reel is cutting better on one side vs the other.


I've finally got around to properly testing bedknife to roller parallelity. The rear roller is about 0.1" off from level on the right side whilst the front roller is about 0.1" off level on the left side. I guess the HOC adjustment "corrects" for the slight angle.

The big question is whether this is likely to produce a noticeable difference in cut quality (my lawn isn't super level to start with) at about 5/8" or uneven clipping distribution in the basket?


----------



## Greendoc

What does happen is that you will see a "step" being cut into the lawn. What I find is that the step is worse at higher HOC vs if you are mowing at green height


----------



## TC2

I'm looking at adjusting rear roller height. I've loosened the 4 bolts as the manual suggests and then it just says to lower or raise. What am I expecting here? The roller just seems to wobble around within the confines of the loose bolts. Just pushing upwards, I can't raise it even the slight amount required. Do the bolts need pulling further out? Is it gunked up? Needs more force?


----------



## The Anti-Rebel

The top adjusting bolts on each roller bracket need to be turned to adjust the height up or down. Then the locking bolts on the sides are tightened back up to hold the roller in place.


----------



## TC2

The Anti-Rebel said:


> The top adjusting bolts on each roller bracket need to be turned to adjust the height up or down. Then the locking bolts on the sides are tightened back up to hold the roller in place.


Apologies, I should have specified the rear roller! I've edited original.


----------



## TC2

I finally managed to level the bedknife to the drum, however, I don't think the manual is very informative on this issue.

As far as I can tell, there is little play in both maximum and minimum height of the drum on either side. The manual says to loosen the retaining screws on the right side and then adjust the height up or down accordingly, however, I found that even with the right side drum pushed up as far as it would go, this wasn't enough to account for the difference in drum height on the left side. I ended up also adjusting the left side down slightly to get everything completely parallel.


----------



## Passat774

I need some parts assistance, I have tired reaching out to my local Toro dealer but have not received any good information.

I am looking for a groomer for my GM 1600 and found the following :

_Model #: 04742
26in Thin Blade Groomer Reel, Groomer Drive System

But it's designed For Model

Model #: 04056
Serial #: 316000001 - 316001000_

*My serial number is: 04056-31400019*

Which is a different serial number range, does anyone know if it would work?

Thanks


----------



## Oceanus

(not trying to be a jerk) Check Toro's information

04056, Serial #: 314000001 - 314004000

Accessories

Parts Catalog page 31


----------



## Passat774

I realize the part numbers do not work correctly, I was hoping that because the groomer isn't a super complex item that someone with first hand knowledge of these machines might know what it would take to make it work.


----------



## chadh

Is there a guide for determining model year for the GM1000 and flex?


----------



## jimbeckel

The serial number should provide the born on date, mine starts with 00 which indicates it was made in 2000


----------



## Stuofsci02

Hello All,

I have been looking for an opportunity on a Green's Mower this past summer. Wanted a JD or Toro, but these are hard to come by in my area (it seems). As such I was thinking of getting a Swardman over the winter.

Recently a Toro Greensmaster Flex 21 came available about 2 hours from my location. The current owner has had it a year but decided that his lawn is too big for the mower. The previous owner used it to maintain a home green. It has been serviced at Turf Care which is a Golf Equipment company in the region that has several location. According to the current owner the reel was sharpened at the beginning of the year, it runs well and has the High HOC kit installed this summer. He is asking $900 CAD which is about $675 US. I can see from the Toro Website that this unit is a model 04024 (Greensmaster Flex 21 Traction Unit) and it has 1315 hours. How do you tell the year. Since one of the accessories Toro calls out is a Light Kit for 2008 and later walk behind Greensmasters I assume it is later than 2008? The manual for the serial number calls out a 2009 year.

Since I don't have a lot of experience with these is there anything from the photos that would indicated a problem? Any thoughts on the price, keeping in mind this is Canada and these are harder to find. I am going to go look at it on Saturday. Is there anything specific I should be looking for (cut paper, runs... ).

Thanks.. Stu


----------



## SNOWBOB11

@Stuofsci02 I don't know a lot about toros so can't help you with the year. Make sure the machine starts up without too much issue. Try the self propelled drive and see if it engages fast. It's important to make sure the reel and bed knife are not worn down too much so if you need to do a relief grid there is still material left. Of course do the paper test and see if it cuts without issue. If it's in working condition without issues I think it's a decent price. Doesn't look bad from the pictures.


----------



## Stuofsci02

Thanks Snowbob.. Hoping it is as good as it sounds. Need to be ready to step it up (or down reel low) for next season..


----------



## TNTurf

Stuofsci02 said:


> Hello All,
> 
> I have been looking for an opportunity on a Green's Mower this past summer. Wanted a JD or Toro, but these are hard to come by in my area (it seems). As such I was thinking of getting a Swardman over the winter.
> 
> Recently a Toro Greensmaster Flex 21 came available about 2 hours from my location. The current owner has had it a year but decided that his lawn is too big for the mower. The previous owner used it to maintain a home green. It has been serviced at Turf Care which is a Golf Equipment company in the region that has several location. According to the current owner the reel was sharpened at the beginning of the year, it runs well and has the High HOC kit installed this summer. He is asking $900 CAD which is about $675 US. I can see from the Toro Website that this unit is a model 04024 (Greensmaster Flex 21 Traction Unit) and it has 1315 hours. How do you tell the year. Since one of the accessories Toro calls out is a Light Kit for 2008 and later walk behind Greensmasters I assume it is later than 2008? The manual for the serial number calls out a 2009 year.
> 
> Since I don't have a lot of experience with these is there anything from the photos that would indicated a problem? Any thoughts on the price, keeping in mind this is Canada and these are harder to find. I am going to go look at it on Saturday. Is there anything specific I should be looking for (cut paper, runs... ).
> 
> Thanks.. Stu


It's a 2010 model. The parts are available for everything on it. If you are OK with the price you will be fine. They are really pretty easy to work on.


----------



## Stuofsci02

Thanks TNTurf.. I assume it is the 2nd and 3rd digit in the serial number that make the year?


----------



## chadh

Just pick up a GM1000 from week's today. All is well except the kill switch doesn't lock to on or off so when it's running it will vibrate itself closed. Anyone had this issue? I imagine it's a simple replacement?


----------



## chadh

Just pick up a GM1000 from week's today. All is well except the kill switch doesn't lock to on or off so when it's running it will vibrate itself closed. Anyone had this issue? I imagine it's a simple replacement?


----------



## Biggylawns

I just picked up a 2nd 1600 with either a bad drum bearing or possibly cracked drum hub for a parts mower/backup. Going to be a fun project to keep me busy this winter. Everything else works flawlessly and I got it for a steal. So far, I did a 2 hr degrease, gave it a quick tune up/winterized it, and took off the covers and kickstand to replace my main 1600s. Toro's service manual is really detailed for anybody inclined to replace/repair. This coming weekend, I plan to take off the belts and drum and see what the issue is. Since time is limited (less than 2 hrs a day on the weekend) I doubt I could complete a full rebuild of the drum.


----------



## Oceanus

That reminds me... I could use some parts for an ill GM1600, 04060-22*

93-6049, HOC Bracket LH (not reel drive side)
*93-9049, bedbar*
104-2646, bedknife High Cut
94-5866, Boot-Differential
88-7700-01, cover, reel drive
88-7680-01, cover, belt drum LH
88-7690-01, cover, belt drive RH​


----------



## ZachUA

where can i buy a high hoc kit for a flex 21?


----------



## Jay20nj

I got a quote of $330 for the clip kit (65-9000) for a greensmaster 1000. Must be a cheaper way as buying an 8 blade reel from rr is cheaper. Anyone know where to get one? See one for a flex for $57 on ebay.


----------



## Biggylawns

@Jay20nj did you get the gm 1000 from your other thread?


----------



## Greendoc

Jay20nj said:


> I got a quote of $330 for the clip kit (65-9000) for a greensmaster 1000. Must be a cheaper way as buying an 8 blade reel from rr is cheaper. Anyone know where to get one? See one for a flex for $57 on ebay.


There are no substitutes for the Clip Kit. I consider using both the Clip kit and an 8 blade reel ideal for mowing at or above 0.5. If only using the 8 blade reel, the mower is optimized for mowing at 0.25".


----------



## Jay20nj

Yes i got the one from my earlier post. They had 4 more. I think i can handle changing the reel and bedknife but $300 bucks for the clip kit sounds crazy considering there is one for a flex on ebay for $57. If anyone knows how to get one please let me know


----------



## Dangerlawn

Are there any YouTube videos that show how to replace the control cables for the Greensmaster 1000? I ordered OEM parts for the throttle, clutch and parking break. Just wanting to make sure I'm as prepared as possible to install.


----------



## Kicker

Dangerlawn said:


> Are there any YouTube videos that show how to replace the control cables for the Greensmaster 1000? I ordered OEM parts for the throttle, clutch and parking break. Just wanting to make sure I'm as prepared as possible to install.


Don't over think it. It's VERY simple and will be quite clear when you remove them.


----------



## Dangerlawn

Kicker said:


> Dangerlawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are there any YouTube videos that show how to replace the control cables for the Greensmaster 1000? I ordered OEM parts for the throttle, clutch and parking break. Just wanting to make sure I'm as prepared as possible to install.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't over think it. It's VERY simple and will be quite clear when you remove them.
Click to expand...

I hope so. The one that concerns me is the parking break. It looks like I might have to remove something major to get enough room to loosen those nuts.


----------



## Greendoc

Small open end wrenches. Working on post 1980 Toyotas and Hondas, then modern vehicles makes loosening a nut on a Toro GM easy by comparison.


----------



## Dangerlawn

Greendoc said:


> Small open end wrenches. Working on post 1980 Toyotas and Hondas, then modern vehicles makes loosening a nut on a Toro GM easy by comparison.


This worked. It took a bit of finesse but I was able to get the nut (back end jam nut) adjusted and now the existing parking break actually works. I still want to replace the cables but technically everything is working at the moment.


----------



## Trippel24

I recently backlapped my gm1000. When I first started I forgot to disengage the reel at first. It now has some hiccups moving and I need to give it a push.... Do you think I may have messed up the clutch or do you think it is something else? Thanks for any help!


----------



## ZachUA

Was just looking at the flex 21 clip kit on fleabay and noticed in the pic it says increasing clip rate .14"(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/U5YAAOSw3GVbR4cW/s-l1600.jpg)

Do they sell two diff clip kits - one for increasing clip rate and one for decreasing? I was under the assumption that I needed to decrease the clip rate in order to mow at a higher height.


----------



## ZachUA

ZachUA said:


> Was just looking at the flex 21 clip kit on fleabay and noticed in the pic it says increasing clip rate .14"(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/U5YAAOSw3GVbR4cW/s-l1600.jpg)
> 
> Do they sell two diff clip kits - one for increasing clip rate and one for decreasing? I was under the assumption that I needed to decrease the clip rate in order to mow at a higher height.


edit: I believe I have figured it out. The clip kit can either increase or decrease the clip rate depending on how you isntall it. If you use it to replace the upper oe pulley, it increases clip rate. If it is installed in place of the lower pulley, it reduces clip rate.

double edit: I meant to edit my original post and ended up quoting myself. :crazy:


----------



## Dangerlawn

I wanted to share an issue I had with my GM 1000 and how I fixed it.

The problem was disengaging the clutch would bump down the throttle a little bit each time. This was annoying because I would have to constantly push the throttle back up after each pass. Even feathering the clutch lightly down would still bump into the throttle and push it down each time.

I replaced the throttle and clutch cables both, but the problem remained. I thought maybe I had the clutch secured incorrectly (like maybe it goes on the other side, meaning the bolt wouldn't be as close to the throttle), but the manual confirmed it was good. What finally fixed the problem was tightening this little 7/16 screw right here:



This screw is what secures the throttle spring assembly. If it's loose, the throttle will move too easily when the clutch taps into it.

Question though.. how do I get the plastic control panel off? What are the bare minimum parts to remove? I think I want to replace mine because it's cracked and covered in paint. I haven't figured yet out how much of the control assembly needs to be taken off to do this. I'm not the most mechanically inclined person.. even replacing the control cables was major challenge for me.


----------



## Kizzle65

Gents and Ladies,

Please tell me some words of encouragement. I'm in Atlanta and have typical Bermuda. Been researching and researching and finally wanted to take my lawn to the next level with a reel mower. Thought I did enough research and decided on the Toro GM 1000 or 1600. Well I saw a Toro GM Flex 21 (2006 model) and didn't think twice about it and pulled the trigger. Now realized I have a max HOC of 19/64. Did I just screw myself with this type of mower and it will be too low?! Will common Bermuda be able to handle this? Please give me some words of advice!!

It has been sitting for a few years, so the sun has taken a toll on her in ascetics but the time on usage has been been estimated in the 500 hours. From what I see its true so far. The internals I am not a bit worried about cause I can fix those but the overall cut is what I am concerned about.


----------



## Greendoc

You did not screw yourself. However some work and optional parts will be involved to convert this good mower to one that will work well for a Common Bermuda lawn. 1. 8 blade reel. 2 High height of cut bracket kit. This increases potential height of cut. You are already at an advantage with the Flex 21 because by changing the routing of the reel drive belt, you can reduce reel speed so the mower will mow taller grass correctly.


----------



## AVguy

Kizzle65 said:


> Gents and Ladies,
> 
> Please tell me some words of encouragement. I'm in Atlanta and have typical Bermuda. Been researching and researching and finally wanted to take my lawn to the next level with a reel mower. Thought I did enough research and decided on the Toro GM 1000 or 1600. Well I saw a Toro GM Flex 21 (2006 model) and didn't think twice about it and pulled the trigger. Now realized I have a max HOC of 19/64. Did I just screw myself with this type of mower and it will be too low?! Will common Bermuda be able to handle this? Please give me some words of advice!!
> 
> It has been sitting for a few years, so the sun has taken a toll on her in ascetics but the time on usage has been been estimated in the 500 hours. From what I see its true so far. The internals I am not a bit worried about cause I can fix those but the overall cut is what I am concerned about.


I'd say go for it. I have 3 different varieties(including common) in my back yard and they all handle it down to .25". Mow as low as you want, but the lower you go the more often you have to mow. When the rain keeps up I mow daily and love it. There are no rules. Have fun and enjoy your lawn. Don't be afraid to scalp any type of Bermuda. It will survive.

But whatever greendoc says is law so do it. He's the man.


----------



## zoysialover

I was hoping someone on this forum could direct me to someone in the Dallas-Ft Worth area that will do a diamond grind on the reel and annual service (change some belts , oil etc...) for my Toro GM1600. I backlap the reel/bedknife a few times a season but I think it's time for a grind and can not find a service center that does it. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks!


----------



## Oceanus

zoysialover said:


> I was hoping someone on this forum could direct me to someone in the Dallas-Ft Worth area that will do a diamond grind on the reel and annual service (change some belts , oil etc...) for my Toro GM1600. I backlap the reel/bedknife a few times a season but I think it's time for a grind and can not find a service center that does it. Any help would be much appreciated.
> Thanks!


 Consider posting in Hometown section Texas


----------



## Dangerlawn

zoysialover said:


> I was hoping someone on this forum could direct me to someone in the Dallas-Ft Worth area that will do a diamond grind on the reel and annual service (change some belts , oil etc...) for my Toro GM1600. I backlap the reel/bedknife a few times a season but I think it's time for a grind and can not find a service center that does it. Any help would be much appreciated.
> Thanks!


Pro Turf in Euless Texas is close to you.


----------



## ZachUA

Is the fuel filter on the flex 21 after the tank or in the filler neck or both? My tank has rust in it and I am working on fixing that but I'd like to be sure I have a good filter between the tank and carb to keep any dislodged bits from making their way to the carb.


----------



## Kizzle65

Greendoc said:


> You did not screw yourself. However some work and optional parts will be involved to convert this good mower to one that will work well for a Common Bermuda lawn. 1. 8 blade reel. 2 High height of cut bracket kit. This increases potential height of cut. You are already at an advantage with the Flex 21 because by changing the routing of the reel drive belt, you can reduce reel speed so the mower will mow taller grass correctly.


So where can I find info on changing the routing of the reel drive belt? I did a quick search on YouTube but didn't see anything. Think I will end up getting a HOC kit cause I am far too nervous to cut that low initially.


----------



## ZachUA

Kizzle65 said:


> Greendoc said:
> 
> 
> 
> You did not screw yourself. However some work and optional parts will be involved to convert this good mower to one that will work well for a Common Bermuda lawn. 1. 8 blade reel. 2 High height of cut bracket kit. This increases potential height of cut. You are already at an advantage with the Flex 21 because by changing the routing of the reel drive belt, you can reduce reel speed so the mower will mow taller grass correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> So where can I find info on changing the routing of the reel drive belt? I did a quick search on YouTube but didn't see anything. Think I will end up getting a HOC kit cause I am far too nervous to cut that low initially.
Click to expand...

I think he's talking about the clip kit which provides a different size pulley for the reel belt. I just purchased a kit off ebay and hope to install it on my flex very soon.


----------



## Kizzle65

ZachUA said:


> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greendoc said:
> 
> 
> 
> You did not screw yourself. However some work and optional parts will be involved to convert this good mower to one that will work well for a Common Bermuda lawn. 1. 8 blade reel. 2 High height of cut bracket kit. This increases potential height of cut. You are already at an advantage with the Flex 21 because by changing the routing of the reel drive belt, you can reduce reel speed so the mower will mow taller grass correctly.
> 
> 
> 
> So where can I find info on changing the routing of the reel drive belt? I did a quick search on YouTube but didn't see anything. Think I will end up getting a HOC kit cause I am far too nervous to cut that low initially.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think he's talking about the clip kit which provides a different size pulley for the reel belt. I just purchased a kit off ebay and hope to install it on my flex very soon.
Click to expand...

So which is better for height? The clip kit or HOC kit from R&R?


----------



## ZachUA

Kizzle65 said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So where can I find info on changing the routing of the reel drive belt? I did a quick search on YouTube but didn't see anything. Think I will end up getting a HOC kit cause I am far too nervous to cut that low initially.
> 
> 
> 
> I think he's talking about the clip kit which provides a different size pulley for the reel belt. I just purchased a kit off ebay and hope to install it on my flex very soon.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So which is better for height? The clip kit or HOC kit from R&R?
Click to expand...

The HOC kit makes it so that the mower can physically be raised higher than the factory adjustment will allow. The clip kit makes it so that the blades are cutting the grass at the optimal speed/rate for a higher than factory height of cut.

Basically one is needed to actually be able to raise the height up, and the other is needed to make the cut look smooth and not washboard.


----------



## Dangerlawn

I'm having the hardest time reaching these two zerks by the drum. Is there a trick to this? Am I supposed to remove something? My gun never makes good connection to get grease in there. The area seems too narrow... is there a specific adapter I can buy? How is everyone else hitting these two? The others I'm getting to just fine.


----------



## Ware

I use a Lincoln Grease Needle to inject grease into the zerks. It takes a little practice, but you basically use the needle to depress the ball on the zerk and inject the grease. I like it because it is easy to reach into tight spaces and it doesn't leave a glob of grease on the zerk when you disconnect.



Another popular option is the LockNLube.


----------



## Oceanus

Those are tuff. I use a basic pistol grip (Lumax LX-1152, $16 from Amazon).
One hand to pump, the other hand can keep pressure/push the fitting.


----------



## Dangerlawn

Oceanus said:


> Those are tuff. I use a basic pistol grip (Lumax LX-1152, $16 from Amazon).
> One hand to pump, the other hand can keep pressure/push the fitting.


This is the exact one I have yet I can't seem to make a good connection.

I might have to try a grease needle...


----------



## Dangerlawn

Ware said:


> I use a Lincoln Grease Needle to inject grease into the zerks. It takes a little practice, but you basically use the needle to depress the ball on the zerk and inject the grease. I like it because it is easy to reach into tight spaces and it doesn't leave a glob of grease on the zerk when you disconnect.
> 
> 
> 
> Another popular option is the LockNLube.


The needle worked great, thanks for the tip.


----------



## Ware

Awesome - glad to hear @Dangerlawn


----------



## Trippel24

Trippel24 said:


> I recently backlapped my gm1000. When I first started I forgot to disengage the reel at first. It now has some hiccups moving and I need to give it a push.... Do you think I may have messed up the clutch or do you think it is something else? Thanks for any help!


Bump for anyone that may be able to help.


----------



## Kizzle65

What are people using to clean up their transmission case? I bought a '06 GM and trying to find something to break off the weathering and make it shinny again. Very picky but trying to make her look good before I set her free from the garage lol.

Also, anybody have a specific color code for the red on the frame?


----------



## Dangerlawn

Question... I see people on this thread mentioning a gearbox but I can't locate one on my mower or manual. Does the FE120 on GM 1000 not have a gear box or is it called something else? I'm just trying to learn what all of the parts are called and how they work.


----------



## Greendoc

The gearbox is part of the engine and lubricated by the engine oil. No separate fiil needed.


----------



## jimbeckel

Kizzle65 said:


> What are people using to clean up their transmission case? I bought a '06 GM and trying to find something to break off the weathering and make it shinny again. Very picky but trying to make her look good before I set her free from the garage lol.
> 
> Also, anybody have a specific color code for the red on the frame?


You can buy the red paint from R&R, or you can go on R&R and get the part number and buy it on Amazon, if I wasn't away from home I would send a pic of the aerosol can, it is a farm type paint and a good match.


----------



## Ware

Kizzle65 said:


> Also, anybody have a specific color code for the red on the frame?


Toro Touch-Up Paint

R&R sells this as Toro red, but it looks like it's technically International Harvester Company red.


----------



## TNTurf

Kizzle65 said:


> What are people using to clean up their transmission case? I bought a '06 GM and trying to find something to break off the weathering and make it shinny again. Very picky but trying to make her look good before I set her free from the garage lol.
> 
> Also, anybody have a specific color code for the red on the frame?


I use the leaf blower to clean off after a cut. I have hit it with water a few times after really wet cuts but that's about it.


----------



## vwbeaner

Dangerlawn said:


> I'm having the hardest time reaching these two zerks by the drum. Is there a trick to this? Am I supposed to remove something? My gun never makes good connection to get grease in there. The area seems too narrow... is there a specific adapter I can buy? How is everyone else hitting these two? The others I'm getting to just fine.


I noticed on my GM1000 that there are metal shields covering a gap right by the zerk. One shield was on the outside where the belt and gear are. That zerk was easy to get my grease gun on. The other shield was on the inside and I couldn't get my grease gun on it so I moved the shield to the outside, on the side with the belt and gears. Now I can get my grease gun on it. I don't know which one was actually right but I can grease it this way so that's how It'll stay.


----------



## Dangerlawn

^^ I'm not understanding what you mean by those shields. I can't seem to locate them. However, using the needle seems to work fine and I actually prefer it over the gun since it's less messy and more obvious to me what's happening.

Came into the garage today and noticed it smelled strongly of gas. Turns out the nut right below the clamp on the fuel line was loose. I thought maybe I had reassembled the cup/gasket/filter incorrectly after cleaning them out but it was just a loose nut. Took me a while to figure it out.


----------



## Kizzle65

Kmartel said:


> Installed this clip kit ($57 eBay) on my 11 blade flex 21. Super easy to do, 5-10 minutes.
> 
> Mowed 1 time with it so far, not sure how much of a difference it made ( maxed out hoc with groomer, around .4"). I am going to start tweaking with my mowing height (lowering) to see if I can find a good balance. If not I will put an 8 blade reel in over the winter. I will keep you updated on the clip kit.


Does anybody have any luck finding these clip kits anymore? I found a ebay listing but he doesn't have any available and I can't seem to find one anywhere.


----------



## NeVs

Havent been able to find any info on how to remove the transport wheels from a flex 21? Anyone able to help?

I'm assuming one of them is counter threaded?


----------



## Dangerlawn

Kizzle65 said:


> Kmartel said:
> 
> 
> 
> Installed this clip kit ($57 eBay) on my 11 blade flex 21. Super easy to do, 5-10 minutes.
> 
> Mowed 1 time with it so far, not sure how much of a difference it made ( maxed out hoc with groomer, around .4"). I am going to start tweaking with my mowing height (lowering) to see if I can find a good balance. If not I will put an 8 blade reel in over the winter. I will keep you updated on the clip kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody have any luck finding these clip kits anymore? I found a ebay listing but he doesn't have any available and I can't seem to find one anywhere.
Click to expand...

I'm really interested in this as well. A clip kit from a Toro dealer is $300.


----------



## ZachUA

Any ideas for mods I could make to drum to get a little more traction on slopes? With the Toro the drum is spinning and slipping on mild slopes in my front yard. I have to help it by giving it manual push to get it through to the top. My JD 220SL (sold unfortunately) never missed a beat. It did not have a floating head and all the weight of the unit was connected to the frame with the drum so I'm wondering if the Toro unit just doesn't have enough weight on the drum?

Anyway, I was wondering if I could modify the drum in any way to get better traction. Even if it's as ******* as gluing a couple shingles to it to give me some tread. lol


----------



## bigmks

Any one know the exact red used for a 2005 Toro Greensmaster 1000? I have a spot that I would possibly like to spray over.


----------



## Ware

bigmks said:


> Any one know the exact red used for a 2005 Toro Greensmaster 1000? I have a spot that I would possibly like to spray over.


I would check these out:



Ware said:


> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Also, anybody have a specific color code for the red on the frame?
> 
> 
> 
> Toro Touch-Up Paint
> 
> R&R sells this as Toro red, but it looks like it's technically International Harvester Company red.
Click to expand...


----------



## TNTurf

Kizzle65 said:



> Kmartel said:
> 
> 
> 
> Installed this clip kit ($57 eBay) on my 11 blade flex 21. Super easy to do, 5-10 minutes.
> 
> Mowed 1 time with it so far, not sure how much of a difference it made ( maxed out hoc with groomer, around .4"). I am going to start tweaking with my mowing height (lowering) to see if I can find a good balance. If not I will put an 8 blade reel in over the winter. I will keep you updated on the clip kit.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody have any luck finding these clip kits anymore? I found a ebay listing but he doesn't have any available and I can't seem to find one anywhere.
Click to expand...

I haven't looked in a while but I have one installed on mine. I bought it from eBay, maybe from the same person. I'm sure it makes some difference but I really didn't have a lot of issues before I installed it. I read it was better so I tried it out and well, still no issues so I left it on.


----------



## TNTurf

ZachUA said:


> Any ideas for mods I could make to drum to get a little more traction on slopes? With the Toro the drum is spinning and slipping on mild slopes in my front yard. I have to help it by giving it manual push to get it through to the top. My JD 220SL (sold unfortunately) never missed a beat. It did not have a floating head and all the weight of the unit was connected to the frame with the drum so I'm wondering if the Toro unit just doesn't have enough weight on the drum?
> 
> Anyway, I was wondering if I could modify the drum in any way to get better traction. Even if it's as ******* as gluing a couple shingles to it to give me some tread. lol


If you come up with something I'm curious. My house is on a hill. Half of my front yard is hill so this year my plan was not to fight it, I'm going to cut half with the reel and half with the rotary which on a corner lot is the side of the house and not that big of a deal. Like you I sold a mower that did well on the hill, I had a Tru Cut 27" with tires on the rear that just drove right up and down the hill. Lower cut quality but better than rotary. Thought about another but I use rotary on the back where the dogs are so might as well just go with two mowers vs three.


----------



## Kizzle65

TNTurf said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas for mods I could make to drum to get a little more traction on slopes? With the Toro the drum is spinning and slipping on mild slopes in my front yard. I have to help it by giving it manual push to get it through to the top. My JD 220SL (sold unfortunately) never missed a beat. It did not have a floating head and all the weight of the unit was connected to the frame with the drum so I'm wondering if the Toro unit just doesn't have enough weight on the drum?
> 
> Anyway, I was wondering if I could modify the drum in any way to get better traction. Even if it's as ******* as gluing a couple shingles to it to give me some tread. lol
> 
> 
> 
> If you come up with something I'm curious. My house is on a hill. Half of my front yard is hill so this year my plan was not to fight it, I'm going to cut half with the reel and half with the rotary which on a corner lot is the side of the house and not that big of a deal. Like you I sold a mower that did well on the hill, I had a Tru Cut 27" with tires on the rear that just drove right up and down the hill. Lower cut quality but better than rotary. Thought about another but I use rotary on the back where the dogs are so might as well just go with two mowers vs three.
Click to expand...

I have seen people spray bedliner onto the roll and gives them traction.


----------



## EricInGA

Kizzle65 said:


> TNTurf said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas for mods I could make to drum to get a little more traction on slopes? With the Toro the drum is spinning and slipping on mild slopes in my front yard. I have to help it by giving it manual push to get it through to the top. My JD 220SL (sold unfortunately) never missed a beat. It did not have a floating head and all the weight of the unit was connected to the frame with the drum so I'm wondering if the Toro unit just doesn't have enough weight on the drum?
> 
> Anyway, I was wondering if I could modify the drum in any way to get better traction. Even if it's as ******* as gluing a couple shingles to it to give me some tread. lol
> 
> 
> 
> If you come up with something I'm curious. My house is on a hill. Half of my front yard is hill so this year my plan was not to fight it, I'm going to cut half with the reel and half with the rotary which on a corner lot is the side of the house and not that big of a deal. Like you I sold a mower that did well on the hill, I had a Tru Cut 27" with tires on the rear that just drove right up and down the hill. Lower cut quality but better than rotary. Thought about another but I use rotary on the back where the dogs are so might as well just go with two mowers vs three.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have seen people spray bedliner onto the roll and gives them traction.
Click to expand...

Happen to have a link to this?

I mean, not on how to do it as that's obvious, but what their experience has been.


----------



## Kizzle65

I want to say I seen it in this thread. I'll try to look for it.


----------



## EricInGA

reidgarner said:


> I've got quite a slope in my front yard so I painted the drum on my Flex 21 with flex seal. Scored the drum with 220 grit sandpaper, cleaned with mineral spirits. 3 coats, 24 hours apart. Built up a nice thick coating. We shall see this weekend how much it improves traction.


What was the verdict over the last year with the flex seal on the drum?


----------



## Cory

I've had several issues with my 1600 that I've had no problem fixing but I'm stumped on this one. For some reason when the reel is engaged is starts to struggle moving after it gets warmed up. Almost like a brake is applied but it's fine if the reel is disengaged. I removed the parking brake because I thought maybe it was causing the issue but it's not, it's something else. Any idea what it could be?


----------



## Pamboys09

Hello guys, for GM 1600 what grease gun do you guys recommend? Also what type of grease. 
Thanks!


----------



## Biggylawns

@Pamboys09 I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MD4YKM and marine grease from HD/lowes.


----------



## reidgarner

EricInGA said:


> reidgarner said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've got quite a slope in my front yard so I painted the drum on my Flex 21 with flex seal. Scored the drum with 220 grit sandpaper, cleaned with mineral spirits. 3 coats, 24 hours apart. Built up a nice thick coating. We shall see this weekend how much it improves traction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What was the verdict over the last year with the flex seal on the drum?
Click to expand...

It lasted about 2 cuts before it started to wear off. The best thing I have found is to keep the turf short (under .35") and you won't have any problems, even on a big slope. The taller the turf, the less traction you get.


----------



## EricInGA

reidgarner said:


> EricInGA said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> reidgarner said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've got quite a slope in my front yard so I painted the drum on my Flex 21 with flex seal. Scored the drum with 220 grit sandpaper, cleaned with mineral spirits. 3 coats, 24 hours apart. Built up a nice thick coating. We shall see this weekend how much it improves traction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What was the verdict over the last year with the flex seal on the drum?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It lasted about 2 cuts before it started to wear off. The best thing I have found is to keep the turf short (under .35") and you won't have any problems, even on a big slope. The taller the turf, the less traction you get.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the update!


----------



## Desing

Cory said:


> I've had several issues with my 1600 that I've had no problem fixing but I'm stumped on this one. For some reason when the reel is engaged is starts to struggle moving after it gets warmed up. Almost like a brake is applied but it's fine if the reel is disengaged. I removed the parking brake because I thought maybe it was causing the issue but it's not, it's something else. Any idea what it could be?


Have you figured out a solution yet? I am struggling with this issue as well. I have replaced/adjusted the drive belt many times and can get like 1 pass before it struggles to move again.. Without doing a full tear down and rebuild I'm at a loss at what to try next..


----------



## Greendoc

Bearings for the drum roller in the rear may be done.


----------



## Cory

@Desing i haven't had time to mess with it since posting. I really don't want to tear it down either, was hoping someone had a solution here.

@Greendoc it has no problems with the reel disengaged. It's kinda like the drive belts are slipping but they are new and tight.


----------



## Desing

@Cory I have a feeling it may be that the pulleys are worn out. Mine has the same issues with the drive belts slipping even though they're new and tight.

Mine have a decent amount of rust that could be causing the issue because my mower sat for years before I acquired it. That might be causing it, not sure what yours looks like.


----------



## Greendoc

Cory said:


> @Desing i haven't had time to mess with it since posting. I really don't want to tear it down either, was hoping someone had a solution here.
> 
> @Greendoc it has no problems with the reel disengaged. It's kinda like the drive belts are slipping but they are new and tight.


All of the belts with the exception of the two belts from the engine to the main shafts are supposed to be cogged. If they are not, that is your problem. Other belts to check are from the main shaft to the shaft that goes to the roller drive.


----------



## kychan

Cory said:


> I've had several issues with my 1600 that I've had no problem fixing but I'm stumped on this one. For some reason when the reel is engaged is starts to struggle moving after it gets warmed up. Almost like a brake is applied but it's fine if the reel is disengaged. I removed the parking brake because I thought maybe it was causing the issue but it's not, it's something else. Any idea what it could be?


Maybe check out the idler pulley. I had a similar issue. The arm thing that holds down the belts was rubbing so i had to add a washer.


----------



## Cory

kychan said:


> Cory said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've had several issues with my 1600 that I've had no problem fixing but I'm stumped on this one. For some reason when the reel is engaged is starts to struggle moving after it gets warmed up. Almost like a brake is applied but it's fine if the reel is disengaged. I removed the parking brake because I thought maybe it was causing the issue but it's not, it's something else. Any idea what it could be?
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe check out the idler pulley. I had a similar issue. The arm thing that holds down the belts was rubbing so i had to add a washer.
Click to expand...

One of them were rubbing but I fixed that. Maybe the belts over heated from the rubbing and they stretched?


----------



## jimbeckel

Cory said:


> kychan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cory said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've had several issues with my 1600 that I've had no problem fixing but I'm stumped on this one. For some reason when the reel is engaged is starts to struggle moving after it gets warmed up. Almost like a brake is applied but it's fine if the reel is disengaged. I removed the parking brake because I thought maybe it was causing the issue but it's not, it's something else. Any idea what it could be?
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe check out the idler pulley. I had a similar issue. The arm thing that holds down the belts was rubbing so i had to add a washer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> One of them were rubbing but I fixed that. Maybe the belts over heated from the rubbing and they stretched?
Click to expand...

I had the same issue on my GM1000, idler pulley was rubbing up against another part, reason I found the problem was because the idler pulley was showing excessive wear spots on the ridge that keeps the belt on the pulley and not slipping off. I used a dead blow hammer to push the idler pulley away from the adjacent part and this fixed my problem.


----------



## Cory

@Desing @Greendoc I messed with it for a little bit today, it seemed the tensioner wouldn't engage all the way forward like maybe the springs are wore out. I ended up loosening the motor mount bolts and slid the motor back as far as it would go, the motor was all the way forward in the slots. Works perfectly now when the reel is engaged, rolls slowly on its own when the reel is disengaged but I can adjust that next time I use it, didn't want to mess with it anymore today.


----------



## Jay20nj

Does anyone have a gm1000 they use for parts? Looking for the reel drive cover, the groomer arm cover and one of the screws the has the allen head that goes through the groomer arm cover that holds the bearing housing in on the drive pulley side. Photos of the parts... any help is greatly appreciated and i can pay for the parts


----------



## kychan

If you dont find the parts bondo or epoxy is an easy fix.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

My mount isolators for the damper assembly bit the dust. They are Toro part 105-5303 and they ran about $65 shipped from my local Toro Dealer, STI Turf. Replacement was easy with the exception that the the inner threaded bolt was separated from the rubber bushing.
*New isolator*

*Old Broken Isolators*

*The inner bolt still in the damper assembly*

I ended up drilling two holes in the broken piece and used a screwdriver and hammer to break the bolt loose. I was then able to take some needle-nose pliers and remove them.

*New isolators installed*




Fairly easy process except for actually finding my tools in the disaster of a garage. Hope this helps out anyone that needs to do this repair in the future.


----------



## g01fer41ife

Jay20nj said:


> Does anyone have a gm1000 they use for parts? Looking for the reel drive cover, the groomer arm cover and one of the screws the has the allen head that goes through the groomer arm cover that holds the bearing housing in on the drive pulley side. Photos of the parts... any help is greatly appreciated and i can pay for the parts


Also looking for these parts as well. Mine look similar to yours. If you get a lead on where to buy these please let me know.


----------



## Kizzle65

chadh said:


> Just pick up a GM1000 from week's today. All is well except the kill switch doesn't lock to on or off so when it's running it will vibrate itself closed. Anyone had this issue? I imagine it's a simple replacement?


Did you ever figure out a replacement or fix for this? Mine started to do it too and just haven't found a replacement part just if yet.


----------



## chadh

Kizzle65 said:


> chadh said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just pick up a GM1000 from week's today. All is well except the kill switch doesn't lock to on or off so when it's running it will vibrate itself closed. Anyone had this issue? I imagine it's a simple replacement?
> 
> 
> 
> Did you ever figure out a replacement or fix for this? Mine started to do it too and just haven't found a replacement part just if yet.
Click to expand...

I bought this. 5 minute fix.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-OEM-NOS-27010-2066-On-Off-Kill-Switch-Many-FE120-FE290-FE250-FE350/152636529620?hash=item2389d89bd4:g:cg4AAOSwwxJZdi0J


----------



## Kizzle65

chadh said:


> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> chadh said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just pick up a GM1000 from week's today. All is well except the kill switch doesn't lock to on or off so when it's running it will vibrate itself closed. Anyone had this issue? I imagine it's a simple replacement?
> 
> 
> 
> Did you ever figure out a replacement or fix for this? Mine started to do it too and just haven't found a replacement part just if yet.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I bought this. 5 minute fix.
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-OEM-NOS-27010-2066-On-Off-Kill-Switch-Many-FE120-FE290-FE250-FE350/152636529620?hash=item2389d89bd4:g:cg4AAOSwwxJZdi0J
Click to expand...

Thanks!! Just put the order in.


----------



## Jay20nj

I ended up just ordering them from a toro dealer. Crazy expensive though. The seal around the cover is 4 pieces and cost like $50 alone. Is what it is. I better love this thing.


----------



## Kizzle65

Finally finished my HOC bars. Had enough material that I just made two of them.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

I just picked up a GM1000 for $100. The motor was advertised as not working and needing a new reel.

I have since got it running but it's not running great. I have cleaned the carb as it was extremely dirty and gummed up.

Right now it is surging which means that the carb needs to be cleaned again. But fuel is dripping out the front of the carb past the choke flap. What would cause this?


----------



## Biggylawns

Jay20nj said:


> I ended up just ordering them from a toro dealer. Crazy expensive though. The seal around the cover is 4 pieces and cost like $50 alone. Is what it is. I better love this thing.


You will! Haha. The parts are expensive, which is why I bought a second with a broken drum spindle. I had 2 covers with holes and Toro wanted 110 each, plus tax. Got a 2nd 1600 for 250 and sold the wheels and catcher for 240 total. Basically got a backup 1600 for 10 bucks and then spent 60 for a spindle so I'm into it for 70 bucks and it's fully operational. If you can find a cheapish broken one then you might want to think about hopping on it.


----------



## cwrx82

Theycallmemrr said:


> I just picked up a GM1000 for $100. The motor was advertised as not working and needing a new reel.
> 
> I have since got it running but it's not running great. I have cleaned the carb as it was extremely dirty and gummed up.
> 
> Right now it is surging which means that the carb needs to be cleaned again. But fuel is dripping out the front of the carb past the choke flap. What would cause this?


Not sure if I'm understanding correctly, but are you talking about the "flap" in the air filter housing? I had this issue and it was bc the float wasn't floating. Corrected that and issue resolved.


----------



## XLT_66

Hey everyone,

I'm in the middle of a reel and bearing replacement on my GM1000. Taking everything apart was fairly straight forward. I replaced the seals and bearings in each housing without much issue. However, during installation of the new reel, it appears that that shafts of the new reel just won't slide into the fresh bearings. To ensure I've not screwed something up with the new bearings, I can easily install the new bearings onto the old reel without issue.

Anyone ever heard of any issues like this? This is the reel I've got as replacement:

https://www.rrproducts.com/Reel-~-8-Blade-product25928?k=R92-9672

The service manual suggests using a soft hammer to tap the bearing housing onto the reel but that doesn't work here at all and the last thing I wanna do is bind the reel to the bearing housing while in the mower and go through hell trying to get it apart again.

Any thoughts? I've considered freezing the reel and heating the bearing housings but worried they'll end up seized if I ever needed to replace things in the future.


----------



## EricInGA

Theycallmemrr said:


> I just picked up a GM1000 for $100. The motor was advertised as not working and needing a new reel.
> 
> I have since got it running but it's not running great. I have cleaned the carb as it was extremely dirty and gummed up.
> 
> Right now it is surging which means that the carb needs to be cleaned again. But fuel is dripping out the front of the carb past the choke flap. What would cause this?


Have you cleaned the pilot screw?


----------



## Kizzle65

Has anybody had any luck finding this Clip Kit 105-5325? I obviously don't want to order it from Toro themselves and Ebay, Facebook, etc are coming with dead ends. Please help!!!!


----------



## Desing

Cory said:


> @Desing @Greendoc I messed with it for a little bit today, it seemed the tensioner wouldn't engage all the way forward like maybe the springs are wore out. I ended up loosening the motor mount bolts and slid the motor back as far as it would go, the motor was all the way forward in the slots. Works perfectly now when the reel is engaged, rolls slowly on its own when the reel is disengaged but I can adjust that next time I use it, didn't want to mess with it anymore today.


Sorry for the delayed response. I was messing with mine and ended up breaking the clutch cable. Looked like it has fatigued itself to death.

Replaced the clutch cable and belt and everything works now. Might be worth to inspect your cable and make sure it's still good if it's not engaged all the way.


----------



## Che98008

Hi, 
Thanks for all the good insight everyone! I'm so glad I found thelawn.com
Does anyone have any insight into the pros/cons of going with a Greensmaster 1600 that has a Subaru engine vs. the Kawasaki? I'm looking to purchase a Greensmaster and spoke w/ someone out of Phoenix that said the Subaru engines don't start as well as the Kawaskis. 
Thoughts? Comments?


----------



## cwrx82

Che98008 said:


> Hi,
> Thanks for all the good insight everyone! I'm so glad I found thelawn.com
> Does anyone have any insight into the pros/cons of going with a Greensmaster 1600 that has a Subaru engine vs. the Kawasaki? I'm looking to purchase a Greensmaster and spoke w/ someone out of Phoenix that said the Subaru engines don't start as well as the Kawaskis.
> Thoughts? Comments?


I have 2 mowers with the Subaru's and they start first pull every time. I'd go Subaru if I were you, just bc parts will be easier to find. I believe the carb for a Kaw is $150+ and Subaru is $50 on eBay.

I've also owned a few with Kaw and they all started first pull as well. Both are very good engines.

If both engines are running fine right now, then as long as you keep up maintenance you shouldn't have any issues with either.


----------



## Logan200TCP

Subaru is out of the small engine market with newer Toro units being equipped with Hondas.
Keep that in mind if you are intending to keep this machine for a long time.
There are more Kawasaki engines out there than Subaru engines, and I would agree with the statement that Subaru engines don't run as well as the former Kawis.

The newer GR1600 with Subaru will have a little different (updated) reel set up than the older units, but likely negligible to you.
You can't go wrong with either, it's just what you are willing to spend.

If it was me, I would go with the Kawasaki option and put a few bucks back in your pocket.


----------



## Rule11

Ware said:


> I changed my input drive belts today. The old ones were all cracked up. It was a little tricky, but I was able roll the old ones off and the new ones on without too much work. Hopefully the next owner appreciates them.
> 
> ETA: I had to adjust the little belt guard on the front of the idler pulley. It rubbed the belts with the clutch engaged. I'm glad I checked that before putting the cover back on. It had a couple grooves worn in it so apparently it had been rubbing a while. :|
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:


@Ware I know this was an old post, I ordered 2 new belts for future replacement before the summer season. Any tricks or suggestions you may have for this job. Also I purchased a new Tournament .125-.500 bedknife and 11 blade reel. Have you had any experience with this job? I have replaced a reel and bedknife on a Cal Trimmer but not a lot of experiance with the GM. This is my second season with this machine and am getting into the maintenance and improvement aspect of this machine. 
Thanks in advance!


----------



## Oceanus

Che98008 said:


> Hi,
> Thanks for all the good insight everyone! I'm so glad I found thelawn.com
> Does anyone have any insight into the pros/cons of going with a Greensmaster 1600 that has a Subaru engine vs. the Kawasaki? I'm looking to purchase a Greensmaster and spoke w/ someone out of Phoenix that said the Subaru engines don't start as well as the Kawaskis.
> Thoughts? Comments?


My ranking would be Honda > Subaru > Kawasaki (but all are good enough)
I have one GM1600 with Kawasaki and that carb jet is damn annoying and carb parts are expensive
I have two GM1000 with Subarus and zero issues and a I think they run quieter
I have a few other Subarus small engines (power washer, generator, etc. with zero issues)
Also have run several Hondas with zero issues.

IF you're going to use a local mechanic for service I would defer to their preference.


----------



## Ware

@Rule11 I honestly don't remember much about that. I would download the factory service manual for instructions to complete both tasks. See link on page 1.


----------



## FedDawg555

Ware said:


> I know several of us here run *Toro Greensmaster* reel mowers. This post is a resource to help you locate relevant manuals and documentation for your Toro greensmower.
> 
> Go here and enter your mower's model number (found on the serial number plate attached to the frame). The search result should list the serial number ranges for that particular model number. Make the appropriate selection to access things like the PDF *Operator's Manual* and *Parts Catalog* for your particular mower.
> 
> Go here to download the *Factory Service Manual* for your mower. This detailed manual will provide basically everything you need to know about taking care of your Greensmaster.
> 
> Current production Greensmasters have Subaru engines, but most that are currently on the secondary market are equipped with the *Kawasaki FE120 Engine* . The Service Manual for the Kawasaki engine can be found here (or several other places online with a quick Google search). Most common replacement parts for the Kawasaki engine are readily available from online parts warehouses like Jack's Small Engines.
> 
> If you are just looking for general *Greensmaster Specifications* (like HOC range, clip rate, etc.), you can find those here:
> Greensmaster 800/1000/1600 Spec Sheet
> Greensmaster Flex Spec Sheet​
> If you are looking for part numbers for *Greensmaster Accessories* (like bedknife, reel and roller options), you can find those here:
> Greensmaster 1000 Accessories​
> Go here to learn more about increasing the HOC range of a Greensmaster Flex.
> 
> For common *aftermarket replacement parts and accessories*, I would suggest R&R Products. They make it pretty easy to find parts by selecting the make/model of your mower, then viewing the various parts schematics.
> 
> For *uncommon replacement parts and accessories*, you will need to contact the Toro Golf Equipment dealer that services your region. Note that Toro dealers who sell residential/commercial mowers do not have access to parts for Toro greensmowers and other "golfcourse equipment".


@Ware

So here's a GSA Federal Contract, Toro Greensmaster Parts Price List.

Covers the Greensmaster and other Toro turf products.

Considering we have to call a Toro Rep to even get an idea, say what a clip kit costs or lights etc, rollers etc, this price list can be a useful tool to give everyone at least a close idea what the part approximately costs.

Heck you can see what the Feds pay for brand new Greensmaster machines.

I have used these GSA published price sheets, in the past to negotiate with dealers to at least match the GSA rate on a variety of items that have contracts with the Government. Never hurts to ask if armed with information.

Maybe pin Price link it to first page So it doesn't get lost in 50 page thread.

Hope it helps someone. Toro Parts # and prices start on page 9 of document.

https://www.gsaadvantage.gov/ref_text/GS06F0012R/0V06B0.3QQJCJ_GS-06F-0012R_TOROGS06F0012RTHRUPA0164.PDF


----------



## Ware

@FedDawg555 done.


----------



## FedDawg555

Ware said:


> @FedDawg555 done.


Thanks...I've been busy with research and information overload trying to get armed with info on everything GM 1600, waiting like it's Christmas for my unit to get here from Prairie Turf. They had to order a new grass catcher for my GM 1600 unit so waiting on that from Toro, before they ship it.


----------



## Biggylawns

I have a Toro account to look up turf prices. Prices for commonly used items, reels, bearings, etc are slightly higher than R&R. For a carb, its a whopping $330.

I tried entering part #s from the above link but they wouldn't work. The website could be a lot better because as of now you need to search a specific model and then search for parts.


----------



## gm560

Picked up a Greensmaster 1600 today. First reel mower. I have little experience with anything mechanical, outside of normal maintenance, but looking forward to learning. Its an older unit, 1999-2000 according to the seller. I bought it from Pine Valley country club, who said they used it to maintain the collars on greens there. He told me the reel had about a season on it and they rebuilt it last year. It started on first pull and appears to cut well. Should be fun!

One thing I noticed is I want to adjust the HOC. The nuts holding the front groomer wont budge, even using my impact driver and a socket set. Anyone have tips on getting these things off?

Edit. Never mind. WD-40 did it!


----------



## Biggylawns

In the future, if wd40 doesn't work then use a torch.

In the offseason, you might want to take some rusted nuts and bolts off and let them soak in rust remover. Use anti-seize to put them back and never have a problem again.


----------



## gm560

Biggylawns said:


> In the future, if wd40 doesn't work then use a torch.
> 
> In the offseason, you might want to take some rusted nuts and bolts off and let them soak in rust remover. Use anti-seize to put them back and never have a problem again.


Awesome. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## jrubb42

Just ordered a new drive belt on my GM1000 because one of them had the teeth completely missing and would not move the rear drum. I've seen many posts here mentioning they have replaced them many times but never seen how to do it. Wondering if there are any tips or directions I should follow other than what the mower manual tells you?


----------



## FATC1TY

My 1600 has started to make a sound like I have a rock or three in the drum or the reel, but only does it when the reel is engaged, not when just traveling.

Any ideas? I cant see anything, hosed it all out, reel cuts paper and is adjusted as I just backlapped. Reel moves easily with my hand and no catching or grinding on anything.

Places to look for something loose? Thinking about pumping some grease in it, needing to do that anyways.


----------



## Cory

FATC1TY said:


> My 1600 has started to make a sound like I have a rock or three in the drum or the reel, but only does it when the reel is engaged, not when just traveling.
> 
> Any ideas? I cant see anything, hosed it all out, reel cuts paper and is adjusted as I just backlapped. Reel moves easily with my hand and no catching or grinding on anything.
> 
> Places to look for something loose? Thinking about pumping some grease in it, needing to do that anyways.


Mine was doing something similar. I assumed it was the reel bearings because it was only doing it when the reel was engaged too. I replaced the reel bearings and seals, it's not doing it anymore. On mine if you pump too much grease into the left side zerk it will pop the bearing seal out allowing dirt and junk into the bearing housing, the right side has a hole in the housing that allows excess grease to come out.


----------



## FATC1TY

Cory said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> My 1600 has started to make a sound like I have a rock or three in the drum or the reel, but only does it when the reel is engaged, not when just traveling.
> 
> Any ideas? I cant see anything, hosed it all out, reel cuts paper and is adjusted as I just backlapped. Reel moves easily with my hand and no catching or grinding on anything.
> 
> Places to look for something loose? Thinking about pumping some grease in it, needing to do that anyways.
> 
> 
> 
> Mine was doing something similar. I assumed it was the reel bearings because it was only doing it when the reel was engaged too. I replaced the reel bearings and seals, it's not doing it anymore. On mine if you pump too much grease into the left side zerk it will pop the bearing seal out allowing dirt and junk into the bearing housing, the right side has a hole in the housing that allows excess grease to come out.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I'll tinker around and see what's up. Was your reel pretty loose in the bearings? Mine has little to no movement what so ever, but that doesn't mean they aren't worn.

Sounds like a PITA to replace though.


----------



## Desing

@FATC1TY

Could be a reel bearing has gone bad. Check to see if the reel has any side to side play.


----------



## Cory

@FATC1TY I didn't check, just assumed that was the problem since that's the only moving parts that could have been causing the noise. It's not that complicated, I was actually surprised how easy it was to change them.


----------



## BDalton

As mowing today with my Greensmaster 1000 and the reel stopped turning. Did a little digging and found all the teeth sheared off of this 'clutch and pulley assembly' part 88-7830. Unfortunately a local parts place said this is nearly $300. Was wondering if anyone has some ideas to find one cheaper? Would like to come up with a solution fairly quickly that doesn't cost more than what I got the mower for to begin with....


----------



## FedDawg555

BDalton said:


> As mowing today with my Greensmaster 1000 and the reel stopped turning. Did a little digging and found all the teeth sheared off of this 'clutch and pulley assembly' part 88-7830. Unfortunately a local parts place said this is nearly $300. Was wondering if anyone has some ideas to find one cheaper? Would like to come up with a solution fairly quickly that doesn't cost more than what I got the mower for to begin with....


Not much savings but $273 at SLE

https://sleequipment.com/toro-genuine-part-clutch-and-pulley-asm-walk-greensmower-88-7830.html


----------



## BDalton

Also, has anyone else had a problem with this reel clutch assembly before? Just want to make sure that if I replace it, I don't have the same problem anytime again soon. Reel spins freely and all bearings seem fine.


----------



## Pamboys09

I'm reading the Toro 1600 manual for the details regarding oil change.

So basically to change the oil.

1. Start and run the engine for a few minutes to warm the
engine oil.

2. remove the drain plug and put a drain pan.

3. tilt the mower like the way you check the reel cut paper.

4. put everything back and fill with engine oil

Question
1.) Is the above steps correct? or is there a better or more efficient way to do it?
2.) is Mobil 10W30 okay to use on this?


----------



## Kizzle65

Gents,

Need some advice but thinking I see the "fix". Just started to see this Tranny oil spot on my Flex 21 the last couple mows. From looking at the schematics, looks like all I need is Part 9 & 69. Is that correct? Also, has anybody done this and what would be the procedure going about doing this?


----------



## Stuofsci02

Pamboys09 said:


> I'm reading the Toro 1600 manual for the details regarding oil change.
> 
> So basically to change the oil.
> 
> 1. Start and run the engine for a few minutes to warm the
> engine oil.
> 
> 2. remove the drain plug and put a drain pan.
> 
> 3. tilt the mower like the way you check the reel cut paper.
> 
> 4. put everything back and fill with engine oil
> 
> Question
> 1.) Is the above steps correct? or is there a better or more efficient way to do it?
> 2.) is Mobil 10W30 okay to use on this?


This is pretty much exactly how I do it, but I use a Mityvac fluid evacuator to suck the oil out. I also use a small torpedo level on the engine and put blocks under the mower to get it level before filling. Is the 10W30 Mobil a synthetic? The viscosity is fine, but there are mixed opinions on putting synthetic into an engine that has always used conventional. I for one have never had any problems with it, but wanted to mention it.


----------



## Pamboys09

Stuofsci02 said:


> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm reading the Toro 1600 manual for the details regarding oil change.
> 
> So basically to change the oil.
> 
> 1. Start and run the engine for a few minutes to warm the
> engine oil.
> 
> 2. remove the drain plug and put a drain pan.
> 
> 3. tilt the mower like the way you check the reel cut paper.
> 
> 4. put everything back and fill with engine oil
> 
> Question
> 1.) Is the above steps correct? or is there a better or more efficient way to do it?
> 2.) is Mobil 10W30 okay to use on this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is pretty much exactly how I do it, but I use a Mityvac fluid evacuator to suck the oil out. I also use a small torpedo level on the engine and put blocks under the mower to get it level before filling. Is the 10W30 Mobil a synthetic? The viscosity is fine, but there are mixed opinions on putting synthetic into an engine that has always used conventional. I for one have never had any problems with it, but wanted to mention it.
Click to expand...

Yes mobil oil i got is synthetic. Are those okay to use?

I wonder if this method okay to drain oil..


----------



## Pamboys09

Another question... When putting grease do i need to continue pumping grease until the old grease comes out?

I notice theres a small hole whenever i pump grease its extracting black grease..

Do i need to continue pumping until i saw the new grease comes out?


----------



## Oceanus

Pamboys09,

Oil:
The are websites, like this one, full of discussions (bobistheoilguy.com)
I first consider that these are commercial tools and don't think most of them will ever get much TLC in the wild.
You generally can't go wrong following the service manual (I saw you read that already).
I change the oil once per year in the garge (for level ground) more or less as you described using MobileOne because that's what I have for the cars.

Grease:
Again, read manual and this site.
** be careful about putting too much grease/pressure on bearings ** almost as bad and not enough. that can damage seals.
With regular attention, I pump just enough grease to get a small 'weep' of grease (assuming no water).


----------



## FATC1TY

Any insight on working on, adjusting, using the groomer on a GM1600?

I feel like one side of my groomer just sits lower than the other side and doesn't seem right. Is it leveled out by adjusting the long bolts on it somehow ?


----------



## Kizzle65

I have finally taken these darn things off. Used a impact drill to finally loosen them out. One is right thread and other reverse thread FYI.


----------



## TNTurf

Kizzle65 said:


> Gents,
> 
> Need some advice but thinking I see the "fix". Just started to see this Tranny oil spot on my Flex 21 the last couple mows. From looking at the schematics, looks like all I need is Part 9 & 69. Is that correct? Also, has anybody done this and what would be the procedure going about doing this?


Just the seal, part 9. 69 is a snap ring you will reuse. Get some Dexron ATF to top it off.


----------



## Biggylawns

Kizzle65 said:


> I have finally taken these darn things off. Used a impact drill to finally loosen them out. One is right thread and other reverse thread FYI.


Does the right side one turn towards the reel to come off or towards the handle? I torched mine, used an impact driver and 2 1 inch wrenches and still couldnt get it to budge.


----------



## htnguyen7

Biggylawns said:


> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have finally taken these darn things off. Used a impact drill to finally loosen them out. One is right thread and other reverse thread FYI.
> 
> 
> 
> Does the right side one turn towards the reel to come off or towards the handle? I torched mine, used an impact driver and 2 1 inch wrenches and still couldnt get it to budge.
Click to expand...

Reel my friend. It's reverse threaded.


----------



## Kizzle65

So I have been dealing with my Flex 21 not wanting to keep on. It would start up but quickly die. I took the carb off and completely cleaned it and that fixed it for a mow. Then come back to it the next week and it did it again. After cleaning the fuel filter and replacing the fuel lines, it will not even start at all.

Reading the service manual, it possibly says that its this (Toro Module-interlock Part # 1-323430). Does this really control that? I am finding them for $75 and just wanted to get some other opinions out there before I drop that money for a part that might not be needed.


----------



## Kizzle65

TNTurf said:


> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gents,
> 
> Need some advice but thinking I see the "fix". Just started to see this Tranny oil spot on my Flex 21 the last couple mows. From looking at the schematics, looks like all I need is Part 9 & 69. Is that correct? Also, has anybody done this and what would be the procedure going about doing this?
> 
> 
> 
> Just the seal, part 9. 69 is a snap ring you will reuse. Get some Dexron ATF to top it off.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Hopefully will be an easy fix then.


----------



## DFW_Zoysia

Hi Guys - here are pics of my new-to-me 2014 Flex 2100.

Anyone have a grooved roller they'd like to trade with me for, or an extra groves roller they are looking to sell?


----------



## mopaNi-

Alright so maybe a dumb GM1000 question here but... How easy should it be to roll these units backward?

I feel like the brake is sticking on mine or something. I haven't used one of these for a long, long time and I can't recall if they are suppose to easily roll backward or not.


----------



## Stuofsci02

mopaNi- said:


> Alright so maybe a dumb GM1000 question here but... How easy should it be to roll these units backward?
> 
> I feel like the brake is sticking on mine or something. I haven't used one of these for a long, long time and I can't recall if they are suppose to easily roll backward or not.


Mine rolls backwards easily when not in the drive position...


----------



## Pamboys09

mopaNi- said:


> Alright so maybe a dumb GM1000 question here but... How easy should it be to roll these units backward?
> 
> I feel like the brake is sticking on mine or something. I haven't used one of these for a long, long time and I can't recall if they are suppose to easily roll backward or not.


If my reel is off, engine off and break off
It will roll backward with a little resistance.

Not sure if this is normal.


----------



## Oceanus

mopaNi- said:


> Alright so maybe a dumb GM1000 question here but... How easy should it be to roll these units backward?
> 
> I feel like the brake is sticking on mine or something. I haven't used one of these for a long, long time and I can't recall if they are suppose to easily roll backward or not.


As others said, out of gear, rolling forward and back should be similar effort.


----------



## mopaNi-

Hmm. Mine definitely doesn't roll the same backward as it does forward when out of gear. Actually it kind of makes a little whiny type noise when being backed up.

Ideas?

Thanks,
Chad


----------



## Oceanus

Chad,
Whiny noise? Well, when the front lever, for the reel, is engaged the reel spinning would make a whirling sound and that is will make it harder to pull back. For a quick test you could have someone observe from the front while backing up or remove the cover if alone or for deeper look.


----------



## TNTurf

DFW_Zoysia said:


> Hi Guys - here are pics of my new-to-me 2014 Flex 2100.
> 
> Anyone have a grooved roller they'd like to trade with me for, or an extra groves roller they are looking to sell?


Looks fantastic, what height do you plan to cut at this season?


----------



## DFW_Zoysia

TNTurf said:


> DFW_Zoysia said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Guys - here are pics of my new-to-me 2014 Flex 2100.
> 
> Anyone have a grooved roller they'd like to trade with me for, or an extra groves roller they are looking to sell?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks fantastic, how tall do you plan to cut this season?
Click to expand...

Thank you!

I had planned on 7/8" as I've never been able to get below about 1.1" without it scalping. But dang this Flex is utterly amazing at not scalping a bit. It's uncanny.

I took it down to 7/8" the other day on my inaugural mow and thought it looked good.

Then I took it down again today to help prep for the scalp Thursday and I cut at 5/8" and it looks even better.

So darned if I'm now I'm not thinking about 1/2" after leveling.

I also think with changing the FOC on the Flex and losing at 1/2" I stand a chance of the 14 blade reel working OK.


----------



## Pamboys09

Anyone got a chance to paint they toro same red color? Can anyone guide me where to buy the oem red color?


----------



## Ware

Pamboys09 said:


> Anyone got a chance to paint they toro same red color? Can anyone guide me where to buy the oem red color?





Ware said:


> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Also, anybody have a specific color code for the red on the frame?
> 
> 
> 
> Toro Touch-Up Paint
> 
> R&R sells this as Toro red, but it looks like it's technically International Harvester Company red.
Click to expand...


----------



## mopaNi-

Oceanus said:


> Chad,
> Whiny noise? Well, when the front lever, for the reel, is engaged the reel spinning would make a whirling sound and that is will make it harder to pull back. For a quick test you could have someone observe from the front while backing up or remove the cover if alone or for deeper look.


Yes. Like a gear having trouble turning over or something is sticking. The reel is definitely not engaged or making the noise I'm referring to.

It is 2-3x harder to pull it backward as it is to push it forward.


----------



## Oceanus

mopaNi- said:


> Oceanus said:
> 
> 
> 
> Chad,
> Whiny noise? Well, when the front lever, for the reel, is engaged the reel spinning would make a whirling sound and that is will make it harder to pull back. For a quick test you could have someone observe from the front while backing up or remove the cover if alone or for deeper look.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. Like a gear having trouble turning over or something is sticking. The reel is definitely not engaged or making the noise I'm referring to.
> 
> It is 2-3x harder to pull it backward as it is to push it forward.
Click to expand...

That would be too easy. I've never experienced this issue nor an expert on GM1000s (so no list of common issues). All I can offer is a generic trouble shooting approach of checking each system for function and proper (cable) adjustment similar to going through Toro's service/maintenance checklist. Of course, I'd start with drive and reel systems. It's easy to pull the 3 belt covers and put it up on the kickstand.


----------



## Kizzle65

Kizzle65 said:


> So I have been dealing with my Flex 21 not wanting to keep on. It would start up but quickly die. I took the carb off and completely cleaned it and that fixed it for a mow. Then come back to it the next week and it did it again. After cleaning the fuel filter and replacing the fuel lines, it will not even start at all.
> 
> Reading the service manual, it possibly says that its this (Toro Module-interlock Part # 1-323430). Does this really control that? I am finding them for $75 and just wanted to get some other opinions out there before I drop that money for a part that might not be needed.


Can anybody help?!?!?! I ordered the interlock module and hoping in a few days, it will work finally.


----------



## Pamboys09

Kizzle65 said:


> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I have been dealing with my Flex 21 not wanting to keep on. It would start up but quickly die. I took the carb off and completely cleaned it and that fixed it for a mow. Then come back to it the next week and it did it again. After cleaning the fuel filter and replacing the fuel lines, it will not even start at all.
> 
> Reading the service manual, it possibly says that its this (Toro Module-interlock Part # 1-323430). Does this really control that? I am finding them for $75 and just wanted to get some other opinions out there before I drop that money for a part that might not be needed.
> 
> 
> 
> Can anybody help?!?!?! I ordered the interlock module and hoping in a few days, it will work finally.
Click to expand...

I have this issue before, but on my Machine, the simple fix is the cleaning the carb and changing the sparkplug.


----------



## Kizzle65

Pamboys09 said:


> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I have been dealing with my Flex 21 not wanting to keep on. It would start up but quickly die. I took the carb off and completely cleaned it and that fixed it for a mow. Then come back to it the next week and it did it again. After cleaning the fuel filter and replacing the fuel lines, it will not even start at all.
> 
> Reading the service manual, it possibly says that its this (Toro Module-interlock Part # 1-323430). Does this really control that? I am finding them for $75 and just wanted to get some other opinions out there before I drop that money for a part that might not be needed.
> 
> 
> 
> Can anybody help?!?!?! I ordered the interlock module and hoping in a few days, it will work finally.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have this issue before, but on my Machine, the simple fix is the cleaning the carb and changing the sparkplug.
Click to expand...

I did that earlier and it worked and then again it did the samething. I took the carb apart completely and cleaned. Does the interlock part really control the engine?


----------



## Jcooper43

Hello all. First time poster. If I'm in the WRONG place, please let me know. I just bought a very used Greensmaster Flex 21 for $300. It run's pretty well, moves under its own power, the reel works, and I know NOTHING about reels other than they're really cool. Here is some basic info for you all to know: I'm not too handy, but am willing to learn, have already replaced the oil, spark plug, air filter, I"m making the DIY HOC guage, and THINK I have downloaded the proper manuals.

Here are my questions:

1.) Should I replace the bed knife?
2.) It has a 14 blade reel. Can I use this on my residential lawn? I'm assuming it needs to be sharpened first or simply backlapped? Does this really depend on the paper test?
3.) Does this mower already have a High HOC cut kit installed?? If not, how do I find out. I had trouble when Googling earlier.
4.) There's a bit of idle surge. Possible dirty jet or carb I'd assume? 
5.) Should the reel move freely by itself when not running? E.G., it moves when I push it, but not "freely". If the answer is yes, how do I correct this?
6.) What else should I check/do?

Thank you all in advance for your guidance. I'm really excited to tear into this thing, and have the best looking lawn in the neighborhood.


----------



## Logan200TCP

Jcooper43 said:


> Hello all. First time poster. If I'm in the WRONG place, please let me know. I just bought a very used Greensmaster Flex 21 for $300. It run's pretty well, moves under its own power, the reel works, and I know NOTHING about reels other than they're really cool. Here is some basic info for you all to know: I'm not too handy, but am willing to learn, have already replaced the oil, spark plug, air filter, I"m making the DIY HOC guage, and THINK I have downloaded the proper manuals.
> 
> Here are my questions:
> 
> 1.) Should I replace the bed knife?
> 2.) It has a 14 blade reel. Can I use this on my residential lawn? I'm assuming it needs to be sharpened first or simply backlapped? Does this really depend on the paper test?
> 3.) Does this mower already have a High HOC cut kit installed?? If not, how do I find out. I had trouble when Googling earlier.
> 4.) There's a bit of idle surge. Possible dirty jet or carb I'd assume?
> 5.) Should the reel move freely by itself when not running? E.G., it moves when I push it, but not "freely". If the answer is yes, how do I correct this?
> 6.) What else should I check/do?
> 
> Thank you all in advance for your guidance. I'm really excited to tear into this thing, and have the best looking lawn in the neighborhood.


Don't replace the bedknife yet as it is the least of your problems.
The 14 blade reel is not practical for a residential lawn, it is by design, intended to be used for ultra low heights of cut.
If the reel isn't spinning, it could be because the reel to bedknife contact is too tight or the rust buildup is causing a problem.
The spacers you see on the rear roller have been used to create a more aggressive bedknife angle which is no good for you.
Surging could be bad fuel or a dirty carb. Judging by the amount of rust on the unit, it is probably a combination of both.
You also have a groomer on this unit which could cause you a bit of problems too.

Your skill level is ultimately going to determine what you do.
This machine looks like it needs some work, but it's all repairable and your budget is going to determine what you do.


----------



## Jcooper43

Thanks for the response. I greatly appreciate it. I only have $300 into it. Think I should simply sell it and find something else? I mean, I know it depends on my budget, but if you think(in your opinion), that I have to spend say, another $500 to get it up to par....is that really worth it?


----------



## Stuofsci02

Jcooper43 said:


> Thanks for the response. I greatly appreciate it. I only have $300 into it. Think I should simply sell it and find something else? I mean, I know it depends on my budget, but if you think(in your opinion), that I have to spend say, another $500 to get it up to par....is that really worth it?


If you had to put $500 into it to get it in primo condition that is still a good deal.


----------



## Jcooper43

Cool. I appreciate it. Thanks so much.


----------



## Guest

it ultimately comes down to how much time and money you want to invest into it. I replaced the reel and bedknife on my toro GM1000 to an 8 blade. and tourn bedknife made a world of difference.


----------



## FATC1TY

So... let's say you know a guy who bent a blade on his GM1600.

What parts would you have me suggest to him, other than a replacement reel, to go along with changing it all out? Bearing, fittings, bed knife ?Mower has around 1200 hours on it.

Also- is it pretty straight forward changing out the reel?


----------



## Cory

@FATC1TY i changed the reel bearings on mine, it was much easier than I thought it would be. I would go ahead and change the bearings and seals while your are doing the reel. Everything you need to know is in the service manual.


----------



## FATC1TY

Cory said:


> @FATC1TY i changed the reel bearings on mine, it was much easier than I thought it would be. I would go ahead and change the bearings and seals while your are doing the reel. Everything you need to know is in the service manual.


Thanks!

So reel bearings, oil/grease seals, bed bar ( which is preferred?) and of course the reel.

Anything else I'm missing that should be changed/refreshed while it's a pile of parts?


----------



## Biggylawns

If you are changing the bed knife then I'd convert the standard bed knife screws to torx screws. Might as well check your belts out too :thumbup:


----------



## Kizzle65

Biggylawns said:


> If you are changing the bed knife than I'd convert the standard bed knife screws to torx screws. Might as well check your belts out too :thumbup:


Interesting. I should of done that before I switched out the originals.


----------



## FedDawg555

Need some help on the 2 drum drive cover plates I needed to replace the plate seals for GM 1600. The drum covers are held on by 4 cap screws, washer locks and top 2 thread into the frame. The lower 2 thread into a threaded insert in the frame almost like a nut. But these inserts are round not a nut size. 
The 2 lower screws were corroded on each cover and when I unscrewed them they initially would not unscrew from the inserts because they started spinning the inserts in the frame. I manage to get a small vice grip on the inserts and was able to unscrew the cap screws. Due to condition of the cap screws I'm gonna order new ones along with the cover seals.

My question is these threaded inserts do not show up on the parts diagrams for the frame or anywhere and they need to be replaced due to corrosion and they won't allow a screw to be threaded into them.
Has anyone dealt with these inserts in the frame?
Anyone know the part number?
How do you remove them?
And should I just replace them with regular lock nuts instead of replacing inserts after fingering out how to remove them.

See pics below which show A top one in good condition but the bottoms ones are the ones needing replaced.


----------



## cwrx82

FedDawg555 said:


> Need some help on the 2 drum drive cover plates I needed to replace the plate seals for GM 1600. The drum covers are held on by 4 cap screws, washer locks and top 2 thread into the frame. The lower 2 thread into a threaded insert in the frame almost like a nut. But these inserts are round not a nut size.
> The 2 lower screws were corroded on each cover and when I unscrewed them they initially would not unscrew from the inserts because they started spinning the inserts in the frame. I manage to get a small vice grip on the inserts and was able to unscrew the cap screws. Due to condition of the cap screws I'm gonna order new ones along with the cover seals.
> 
> My question is these threaded inserts do not show up on the parts diagrams for the frame or anywhere and they need to be replaced due to corrosion and they won't allow a screw to be threaded into them.
> Has anyone dealt with these inserts in the frame?
> Anyone know the part number?
> How do you remove them?
> And should I just replace them with regular lock nuts instead of replacing inserts after fingering out how to remove them.
> 
> See pics below which show A top one in good condition but the bottoms ones are the ones needing replaced.


I asked this a while back, and this place didn't let me down. Threaded rivet, rivnut, or nutsert.


----------



## FedDawg555

cwrx82 said:


> FedDawg555 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Need some help on the 2 drum drive cover plates I needed to replace the plate seals for GM 1600. The drum covers are held on by 4 cap screws, washer locks and top 2 thread into the frame. The lower 2 thread into a threaded insert in the frame almost like a nut. But these inserts are round not a nut size.
> The 2 lower screws were corroded on each cover and when I unscrewed them they initially would not unscrew from the inserts because they started spinning the inserts in the frame. I manage to get a small vice grip on the inserts and was able to unscrew the cap screws. Due to condition of the cap screws I'm gonna order new ones along with the cover seals.
> 
> My question is these threaded inserts do not show up on the parts diagrams for the frame or anywhere and they need to be replaced due to corrosion and they won't allow a screw to be threaded into them.
> Has anyone dealt with these inserts in the frame?
> Anyone know the part number?
> How do you remove them?
> And should I just replace them with regular lock nuts instead of replacing inserts after fingering out how to remove them.
> 
> See pics below which show A top one in good condition but the bottoms ones are the ones needing replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I asked this a while back, and this place didn't let me down. Threaded rivet, rivnut, or nutsert.
Click to expand...

How did you get them out? 
Drill them? 
And do you have a part number?


----------



## cwrx82

FedDawg555 said:


> cwrx82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FedDawg555 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Need some help on the 2 drum drive cover plates I needed to replace the plate seals for GM 1600. The drum covers are held on by 4 cap screws, washer locks and top 2 thread into the frame. The lower 2 thread into a threaded insert in the frame almost like a nut. But these inserts are round not a nut size.
> The 2 lower screws were corroded on each cover and when I unscrewed them they initially would not unscrew from the inserts because they started spinning the inserts in the frame. I manage to get a small vice grip on the inserts and was able to unscrew the cap screws. Due to condition of the cap screws I'm gonna order new ones along with the cover seals.
> 
> My question is these threaded inserts do not show up on the parts diagrams for the frame or anywhere and they need to be replaced due to corrosion and they won't allow a screw to be threaded into them.
> Has anyone dealt with these inserts in the frame?
> Anyone know the part number?
> How do you remove them?
> And should I just replace them with regular lock nuts instead of replacing inserts after fingering out how to remove them.
> 
> See pics below which show A top one in good condition but the bottoms ones are the ones needing replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I asked this a while back, and this place didn't let me down. Threaded rivet, rivnut, or nutsert.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How did you get them out?
> Drill them?
> And do you have a part number?
Click to expand...

You can drill them out. Don't have a PN, just check amazon for them.


----------



## FedDawg555

cwrx82 said:


> FedDawg555 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cwrx82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I asked this a while back, and this place didn't let me down. Threaded rivet, rivnut, or nutsert.
> 
> 
> 
> How did you get them out?
> Drill them?
> And do you have a part number?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You can drill them out. Don't have a PN, just check amazon for them.
Click to expand...

What size rivnut fits the GM cover cap bolts? Is it 1/4-20 rivnuts?


----------



## FedDawg555

Can anyone confirm are the Rivnut size that fits the cover screws 1/4-20? I'm gonna order some replacements and want to make sure the size is correct.

I was able to use a step bit to easily drill out the corroded/spinning ones very easy without even touching the the frame or original hole.


----------



## Biggylawns

@FedDawg555 Please post if 1/4-20 is the correct size. I have a bunch missing and this kind of revived my interest to fixing them. Thanks!


----------



## FedDawg555

Biggylawns said:


> @FedDawg555 Please post if 1/4-20 is the correct size. I have a bunch missing and this kind of revived my interest to fixing them. Thanks!


I went to tractor supply today since they have those thread measuring holes in the nuts and bolts section. Confirmed the cap screw will thread into the 1/4-20. So I ordered 2 sets of rivnuts from McMaster-Carr. 1 is supposedly spin proof and the other is normal ribbed. I'm Leary of Amazon for metal or bolt items only because a lot is Chinese made without any quality controls for the metal alloys. Don't want to rivnut a rust bucket on the frame. McMaster Carr is quality control items and 6-10 bucks is a piece of mind to know it's made properly metals wise. If the HD spin proof ones work I'll let ya know. The frame is also .125 thick so these ones will work for that size metal thickness also.

Update 051920-The Rivnut Install Tool came today so I was able to install the new 1/4-20 rivnuts. Worked great. I did use the Zinc Plated HD rivnuts instead of the spin resistance ones only because they matched the Toro originals.

The tool came with some Rivnuts too but like I suspected they are very soft metal and felt really cheap China made stuff. The McMaster ones are definitely the ones to get and use. Put some anti seize on the bolts to prevent them from being so hard to remove that it spins the rivnuts loose and have to do this fix again.

The Rivnut Hog Step drill bit is a must to remove these bad boys from the frame. Makes quick work of the old ones and drills them out like butter without damaging the frame. You will have to use some vice grips to hold the back of the Rivnut to prevent it from spinning while you step drill them out. All in all with the right gear it's an easy fix.

Hope this helps someone.

Covers bolted up perfectly.

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/3511

https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/3510

https://www.mcmaster.com/95105A143-95105A143


----------



## Pamboys09

Hello guys, i got a new gm1000
With lights+groomer 2k hours,. 14blade.

This is my first time having a greens mower with groomer. I checked operators manual and didnt see any instruction on how to set it. Is there a measurement like the hoc. How to set it up?


----------



## Oceanus

Pamboys09 said:


> Hello guys, i got a new gm1000
> With lights+groomer 2k hours,. 14blade.
> 
> This is my first time having a greens mower with groomer. I checked operators manual and didnt see any instruction on how to set it. Is there a measurement like the hoc. How to set it up?


That's in the _Service Manual_, Chapter 7


----------



## Pamboys09

Need help guys.

Im inspecting my new toro gm1000 today and when i tried to remove the bolts at the drum cover. The bolt broke..

See image below



I put tape to cover the hole for the meatime

After this bolt broke. I didnt continue on this area to avoid further damage lol.

Anyone can guide me how to remove this??

Also theres another bolt at the bottom of this thats very scary to remove its lock with the nut, that im so scared to yank it.

Anyone experience this?? Help.


----------



## FedDawg555

Pamboys09 said:


> Need help guys.
> 
> Im inspecting my new toro gm1000 today and when i tried to remove the bolts at the drum cover. The bolt broke..
> 
> See image below
> 
> 
> 
> I put tape to cover the hole for the meatime
> 
> After this bolt broke. I didnt continue on this area to avoid further damage lol.
> 
> Anyone can guide me how to remove this??
> 
> Also theres another bolt at the bottom of this thats very scary to remove its lock with the nut, that im so scared to yank it.
> 
> Anyone experience this?? Help.


Bolt Extractor should work....


----------



## Kizzle65

FedDawg555 said:


> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Need help guys.
> 
> Im inspecting my new toro gm1000 today and when i tried to remove the bolts at the drum cover. The bolt broke..
> 
> See image below
> 
> 
> 
> I put tape to cover the hole for the meatime
> 
> After this bolt broke. I didnt continue on this area to avoid further damage lol.
> 
> Anyone can guide me how to remove this??
> 
> Also theres another bolt at the bottom of this thats very scary to remove its lock with the nut, that im so scared to yank it.
> 
> Anyone experience this?? Help.
> 
> 
> 
> Bolt Extractor should work....
Click to expand...

Bolt extractor for sure but spray some WD-40 around it and let it soak for a few hours. That'll usually help loosen the bolt.

I do that to all the bolts and screws I try to remove cause, the last owner left it outside for some time before I got to it.


----------



## rjw0283

Question for you experts on here, If I found a greensmaster flex 21 that runs for around for 400 bucks should I hop on it?


Any input would be awesome. I have read about the max HOC limitations any information would be helpful.

Thanks!


----------



## SGrabs33

@rjw0283 im not a flex expert but it looks nice and dirty which means it could clean up well. The reel looks like it has quite a bit of life left on it. Looks like the guy that is selling it studied turf grass @ N.C. state so he might know a good amount about the reel. Did he give you any other info? He said it runs and cuts well.

They don't pop up too often around these parts.


----------



## Pamboys09

Finally, completed my fleet 😉
Found a GM1000 for $500
With groomer + basket
Plus lights ( i can mow now at night 🙃)
2008 model.

The only downside is its 14 blade..


----------



## Pamboys09

Pamboys09 said:


> Finally, completed my fleet 😉
> Found a GM1000 for $500
> With groomer + basket
> 2008 model.
> 
> Plus lights, i can now mow at night time 🙃
> 
> The only downside is its 14 blade..


----------



## rjw0283

SGrabs33 said:


> @rjw0283 im not a flex expert but it looks nice and dirty which means it could clean up well. The reel looks like it has quite a bit of life left on it. Looks like the guy that is selling it studied turf grass @ N.C. state so he might know a good amount about the reel. Did he give you any other info? He said it runs and cuts well.
> 
> They don't pop up too often around these parts.


Thanks for the feedback, the only information I've gotten from him is.. I've had it maybe 6 years. I just replaced the right side drive belt bearings and seals. Cleaned carb...runs as it should. 
I've asked a few other questions, just waiting on answers, I have a feeling this will be gone soon. I've been watching mowers on craigslist and other avenues, and when I think I see a good deal it's gone within 24-48 hours. 
My lawn is nowhere near ready for a mower like this (front could possibly be) but if it's a good deal, I'll clean it up make it nice and see what happens. 
The questions I asked were, did he know what year range it was, what has been done as far as blade maintenance did he have a grass catcher. What questions should I ask? I think I'm going to go for it. Tell the wife we are buying a used old lawnmower. She'll understand! :lol:

I've researched the internet for prices for these and I've seen them from around 600-3800 so gauging prices is always tough.


----------



## tbasing

I recently picked up a GreensMaster 1000 I think it is a 2007. I have a question about the parking brake. When it is off the shoe is cocked to the side so when it is applied it doesn't grab. If I push it straight and then apply the brake it works well. I looked at the diagram and it looks like it assembled correctly.

Does anyone have any tips on what to do?

Thanks

Taylor


----------



## TNTurf

rjw0283 said:


> Question for you experts on here, If I found a greensmaster flex 21 that runs for around for 400 bucks should I hop on it?
> 
> 
> Any input would be awesome. I have read about the max HOC limitations any information would be helpful.
> 
> Thanks!


I cant say for sure with the one photo but what I can tell you is every part is available if something is needed and they are built to be used all day every day so the durability is high. So long as its been kept reasonably well you will be just fine. If its in your price range go for it, then find someone to sharpen it. The biggest benefit with the flex is being able to remove the cutting unit from the traction unit and just drop that one part off for sharpening. I would like in the future to have two cutting units so I can have one ready and the other on the machine.


----------



## rjw0283

TNTurf said:


> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question for you experts on here, If I found a greensmaster flex 21 that runs for around for 400 bucks should I hop on it?
> 
> 
> Any input would be awesome. I have read about the max HOC limitations any information would be helpful.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> I cant say for sure with the one photo but what I can tell you is every part is available if something is needed and they are built to be used all day every day so the durability is high. So long as its been kept reasonably well you will be just fine. If its in your price range go for it, then find someone to sharpen it. The biggest benefit with the flex is being able to remove the cutting unit from the traction unit and just drop that one part off for sharpening. I would like in the future to have two cutting units so I can have one ready and the other on the machine.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks! I did look up parts for this thing, and everything seemed available and not super expensive, this is what got me away from buying a Mclane. Parts are expensive and everyone wants 600 for them. 
He responded back, he said he had reel sharpened 3 years ago, and hasn't used it much since. He says he has 4 units he goes between, so this was mostly sat. Said he was in the turf business. No grass catcher. 
I am meeting him this afternoon, and if all goes well I will have it. He's asking 450, which seems very reasonable.


----------



## TNTurf

rjw0283 said:


> TNTurf said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question for you experts on here, If I found a greensmaster flex 21 that runs for around for 400 bucks should I hop on it?
> 
> 
> Any input would be awesome. I have read about the max HOC limitations any information would be helpful.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> I cant say for sure with the one photo but what I can tell you is every part is available if something is needed and they are built to be used all day every day so the durability is high. So long as its been kept reasonably well you will be just fine. If its in your price range go for it, then find someone to sharpen it. The biggest benefit with the flex is being able to remove the cutting unit from the traction unit and just drop that one part off for sharpening. I would like in the future to have two cutting units so I can have one ready and the other on the machine.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Awesome, thanks! I did look up parts for this thing, and everything seemed available and not super expensive, this is what got me away from buying a Mclane. Parts are expensive and everyone wants 600 for them.
> He responded back, he said he had reel sharpened 3 years ago, and hasn't used it much since. He says he has 4 units he goes between, so this was mostly sat. Said he was in the turf business. No grass catcher.
> I am meeting him this afternoon, and if all goes well I will have it. He's asking 450, which seems very reasonable.
Click to expand...

Its a preference thing but you might want long term the catcher and a grooved roller. Plus any parts that are needed to maintain it but 450 sounds like a good deal. I bought my 2004 model for $400. Replaced the smooth roller, gaskets on the carb, air filter, oil, plug, and a seal on the transmission that was leaking. Overall pretty easy.


----------



## Pamboys09

rjw0283 said:


> Question for you experts on here, If I found a greensmaster flex 21 that runs for around for 400 bucks should I hop on it?
> 
> 
> Any input would be awesome. I have read about the max HOC limitations any information would be helpful.
> 
> Thanks!


I would get this if I dont have a greens mower.
But before getting inspect the equipment.

Engine
Reel
Bedknife

If this have a grass catcher im going to get it right away assuming the 3 stuff above are good

If theres no grass catcher those 3 on top should be really good.


----------



## Kizzle65

TNTurf said:


> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TNTurf said:
> 
> 
> 
> I cant say for sure with the one photo but what I can tell you is every part is available if something is needed and they are built to be used all day every day so the durability is high. So long as its been kept reasonably well you will be just fine. If its in your price range go for it, then find someone to sharpen it. The biggest benefit with the flex is being able to remove the cutting unit from the traction unit and just drop that one part off for sharpening. I would like in the future to have two cutting units so I can have one ready and the other on the machine.
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome, thanks! I did look up parts for this thing, and everything seemed available and not super expensive, this is what got me away from buying a Mclane. Parts are expensive and everyone wants 600 for them.
> He responded back, he said he had reel sharpened 3 years ago, and hasn't used it much since. He says he has 4 units he goes between, so this was mostly sat. Said he was in the turf business. No grass catcher.
> I am meeting him this afternoon, and if all goes well I will have it. He's asking 450, which seems very reasonable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Its a preference thing but you might want long term the catcher and a grooved roller. Plus any parts that are needed to maintain it but 450 sounds like a good deal. I bought my 2004 model for $400. Replaced the smooth roller, gaskets on the carb, air filter, oil, plug, and a seal on the transmission that was leaking. Overall pretty easy.
Click to expand...

I got a 2006 for the same price but with grooved roller and no catcher. I've replaced all the belts, filter, spark plug, fuel lines and fluids before I even tried to start it. Recently it's given me problems starting and even after cleaning the carb, it started one mow and then the same problem. So I just order a new carb and waiting a few more days for all the gaskets to come in. Also plan on replacing the transmission seal, as said above, since it seems to leak after a mow for a hour and then done


----------



## Pamboys09

Anyone have a guide to clean the carburetor??
Do i need to take the whole carburetor to clean or just takeout the air filter and clean from there?


----------



## Kizzle65

Pamboys09 said:


> Anyone have a guide to clean the carburetor??
> Do i need to take the whole carburetor to clean or just takeout the air filter and clean from there?


You can try to spray/soak with carb cleaner but best to take it off. YouTube lawnmower carb cleaning and it will set you up. All these type of carbs are built the same basically.


----------



## rjw0283

Kizzle65 said:


> TNTurf said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome, thanks! I did look up parts for this thing, and everything seemed available and not super expensive, this is what got me away from buying a Mclane. Parts are expensive and everyone wants 600 for them.
> He responded back, he said he had reel sharpened 3 years ago, and hasn't used it much since. He says he has 4 units he goes between, so this was mostly sat. Said he was in the turf business. No grass catcher.
> I am meeting him this afternoon, and if all goes well I will have it. He's asking 450, which seems very reasonable.
> 
> 
> 
> Its a preference thing but you might want long term the catcher and a grooved roller. Plus any parts that are needed to maintain it but 450 sounds like a good deal. I bought my 2004 model for $400. Replaced the smooth roller, gaskets on the carb, air filter, oil, plug, and a seal on the transmission that was leaking. Overall pretty easy.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I got a 2006 for the same price but with grooved roller and no catcher. I've replaced all the belts, filter, spark plug, fuel lines and fluids before I even tried to start it. Recently it's given me problems starting and even after cleaning the carb, it started one mow and then the same problem. So I just order a new carb and waiting a few more days for all the gaskets to come in. Also plan on replacing the transmission seal, as said above, since it seems to leak after a mow for a hour and then done
Click to expand...

So I bought it. I met him at a gas station and we ended up mowing some of the gas station grass. Bed knife probably needs to be replaced, he did say he had some sitting at his house. He just called me, he confirmed he had one that will fit and will bring it by later. It fires up the first pull, everything seems good on it, she just needs some TLC. I'm pretty excited. The only thing I noticed wrong was the one of the nuts for the bolts that hold the gear box to motor has broken off. Nothing to be overly concerned about, but something to definitely keep an eye on. 
It will be ready to cut grass in no time, I need a grass catcher, I see them on Ebay for about 110-130 is that a decent deal? 
for anyone in the fayetteville nc area, this guy claims to have 2 Greenmaster 1000's he is going to sell, I asked him a price and he said 300 bucks. Apparently he get these things for cheap somewhere.


----------



## Biggylawns

@rjw0283 110 for a catcher is a pretty good deal imo. I'd hop on it asap.

Also, $300 for a 1000 is a steal. Ask if he can get a working 3150 for like 750? lol


----------



## Pamboys09

Hello again

I'm getting confused with the choke which is ON or OFF

So on my GM1600



The choke is on that position (horizontal)and i can only start the engine on that position.. when the engine start. When i move the choke to the other side (vertical)the engine will die(turn off)

(Is this a sign of a dirty carb)

On the other hand I have a GM1000



If you can see the choke is set to other side(vertical) and starts well. But when i change the choke to the other side (horizontal) it died out?

My question is ? Why my 1600 turn on with choke in horizontal position? While my GM1000 turn on on vertical position?

Second question.. when the machine start do I need to turn the choke to the other side?
Whenever I do this the machine turn off. Is this normal or I need to clean the Carb?


----------



## Biggylawns

@Pamboys09 what does your manual say? Mine (Kawasaki FE120) says on a cold start to have the choke in the closed position and after starting move to half open or full open. If you don't know what these positions are the take off your filter and see.


----------



## Pamboys09

Biggylawns said:


> @Pamboys09 what does your manual say? Mine (Kawasaki FE120) says on a cold start to have the choke in the closed position and after starting move to half open or full open. If you don't know what these positions are the take off your filter and see.


@Biggylawns

Both kawasaki fe120
Is open the one you see inside? And close is when you dont see anything inside?


----------



## TNTurf

The choke is off in the first photo.


----------



## Pamboys09

TNTurf said:


> The choke is off in the first photo.


Got it, will clean both carb of my gm this weekends

By the way. On the picture below. Is the reel still fine or its on its end of its life?


----------



## rjw0283

Got it cleaned up some today, got her cutting paper, motor is running awesome, I took it for a test cut, it mowed pretty good on the side yard, I moved over to the front yard, and first pass was good, then the reel quit engaging, it would go back in then just stop, attempted to tighten reel clutch cable... SNAP!! I broke it! My front yard looks like a drunken 3rd grader mowed it. HAHA! Tried to get a cable ordered but I didn't call the toro distrubutor soon enough, so I'll have to wait till Tuesday. I ordered a grass catcher and the high HOC kit. Ebay had cable's for 50 dollars but they are used. No thanks. 
I ended up having to take the toro flex 21 plastic piece off on the top where the controls are. It was interfering with engaging clutch. (Mower was damaged at some point to the mounting bracket where the throttle cables and clutch cables go on the right side, it was welded at some point, and the plastic part was rubbing on the throttles, so i'll either try to rig it back on or find a used one with all the decals on it) 
Once I get it dialed in, it's going to be a good mower. In the meanwhile, I get to piss the wife off every time I order something for it! YES!!!


----------



## rjw0283

What is the metal bar far that's on the front roller? Anyone know?


----------



## SGrabs33

rjw0283 said:


> What is the metal bar far that's on the front roller? Anyone know?


Some sort of wiper to keep stuff off the roller?


----------



## rjw0283

SGrabs33 said:


> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What is the metal bar far that's on the front roller? Anyone know?
> 
> 
> 
> Some sort of wiper to keep stuff off the roller?
Click to expand...

This is what it is...


----------



## Cjames1603

If anyone needs a good flex 21 I have one I'm not using. I am not DYING to sell it but I hate it just sitting here being cranked only. It needs to cut grass. I'm using a John Deere 260 simply because of HOC. So message me if you need one.


----------



## Kizzle65

After being down for a month, she is back in business. New carb, fuel lines, interlock module and finally the lights work!!!


----------



## rjw0283

Kizzle65 said:


> After being down for a month, she is back in business. New carb, fuel lines, interlock module and finally the lights work!!!


Nice! Those are the High HOC brackets right? Mine are on the way. How high does that put it at?


----------



## Kizzle65

rjw0283 said:


> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After being down for a month, she is back in business. New carb, fuel lines, interlock module and finally the lights work!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Nice! Those are the High HOC brackets right? Mine are on the way. How high does that put it at?
Click to expand...

They are. I want to say they go up to 1.25". I keep mine right below an inch.


----------



## TNTurf

My HOC brackets are R&R and are black. I dont have them on at the moment because this time of year I am mowing at .350. I will switch back in June or early July so I can move up to .450 for a while.


----------



## rjw0283

TNTurf said:


> My HOC brackets are R&R and are black. I dont have them on at the moment because this time of year I am mowing at .350. I will switch back in June or early July so I can move up to .450 for a while.


I ordered the R&R ones as well and should be here in a few days, the picture showed they were black, is there any difference other than color? I was able to cut some of my yard on the highest setting, before the reel clutch started slipping, (hope it's just a cable, I need it anyways because I snapped it adjusting it, I was careful and she just snapped, it's 18 years old so it's not a surprise.) It was too low, but not much, being this is my first year with a reel I plan on starting higher to dial everything in, and go from there. Plus my yard needs some leveling before I get it down low low.


----------



## rjw0283

As I was servicing this flex 21, I noticed gearbox oil looked like engine oil and not the Dex 3 they recommend. It looked like fresh fluid, so I am starting to think I'll need clutch material, I'm thinking someone had reel engagement issues and changed the fluid with whatever they had. I hope it's just the cable. 
Any reason why anyone would put anything but Dex in there?


----------



## Kizzle65

Kizzle65 said:


> After being down for a month, she is back in business. New carb, fuel lines, interlock module and finally the lights work!!!




Night version pic. The actual pic doesn't do it justice. Happy to at least take advantage of the lights finally, even though I'll probably use it maybe once a season.


----------



## Twister_1975

Hi at all, i am from Germany and new in TLF. I have a GM Flex 2100 / 2012 with Groomer. Is ist possible to Germany a High HOC arm up to 1" with groomer? 
I only find the 120-9600 ?! Thanks for you help!!!


----------



## rjw0283

Twister_1975 said:


> Hi at all, i am from Germany and new in TLF. I have a GM Flex 2100 / 2012 with Groomer. Is ist possible to Germany a High HOC arm up to 1" with groomer?
> I only find the 120-9600 ?! Thanks for you help!!!


106-4699 was the bracket kit for a Flex 21, I am not sure what it is for a 2100.


----------



## Philly_Gunner

Twister_1975 said:


> Hi at all, i am from Germany and new in TLF. I have a GM Flex 2100 / 2012 with Groomer. Is ist possible to Germany a High HOC arm up to 1" with groomer?
> I only find the 120-9600 ?! Thanks for you help!!!


Hallo, Twister...Weiss ich nicht aber wilkommen.


----------



## Twister_1975

THX for writing. In the Toro Prospekt Is the High HOC for the 2100 the 120-9600. But this is without groomer. I am suching for a Arm like the Nr. 1 in the picture, only for higher cut. Do anybody use a higher cut 20-25 mm with groomer? Thx buddys


----------



## leifcat1

I haven't received my GM1000 yet. It should (hopefully) be here later this week. While I've been waiting for it to arrive, I've been reviewing the manual for my model (2010 - 04052). I noticed a section in the manual regarding adjusting the front roller to match turf conditions. Apparently, there are three different positions where the front roller can be adjusted to accommodate three conditions:

1. Groomer Installed
2. No Groomer installed
3. Severely undulating turf.



I already know that my personal situation falls under #3. And this is where I will most likely set my roller to once my GM1000 arrives.

The only problem is that I really don't understand what is going on in the diagram. The manual is somewhat vague in regards to what actually happens once the reel is adjusted. Also, the diagram doesn't clearly show how to make the adjustments. (The 2nd and 3rd pictures look almost identical in the diagram below.)

Has anyone made these adjustments... specifically for scenario #3 with severely undulating turf conditions? If so, has there benefit to making this adjustment?

I guess I'm trying to figure out if I should leave it in the 2nd position without a groomer (because I don't have one) or should I move it to the 3rd position due to the conditions of my undulating turf?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Guest

Kizzle65 said:


> After being down for a month, she is back in business. New carb, fuel lines, interlock module and finally the lights work!!!
> 
> she's a beauty enjoy that low mow!


----------



## Guest

leifcat1 said:


> I haven't received my GM1000 yet. It should (hopefully) be here later this week. While I've been waiting for it to arrive, I've been reviewing the manual for my model (2010 - 04052). I noticed a section in the manual regarding adjusting the front roller to match turf conditions. Apparently, there are three different positions where the front roller can be adjusted to accommodate three conditions:
> 
> 1. Groomer Installed
> 2. No Groomer installed
> 3. Severely undulating turf.
> 
> 
> 
> I already know that my personal situation falls under #3. And this is where I will most likely set my roller to once my GM1000 arrives.
> 
> The only problem is that I really don't understand what is going on in the diagram. The manual is somewhat vague in regards to what actually happens once the reel is adjusted. Also, the diagram doesn't clearly show how to make the adjustments. (The 2nd and 3rd pictures look almost identical in the diagram below.)
> 
> Has anyone made these adjustments... specifically for scenario #3 with severely undulating turf conditions? If so, has there benefit to making this adjustment?
> 
> I guess I'm trying to figure out if I should leave it in the 2nd position without a groomer (because I don't have one) or should I move it to the 3rd position due to the conditions of my undulating turf?
> 
> Thanks in advance!


If you look closely you'll see the mounting points are switched in 2nd and 3rd positions.. front and back..in order to do this switch you will have to swap/reverse the roller mounts. left for right right for left.


----------



## leifcat1

Nixnix42 said:


> leifcat1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't received my GM1000 yet. It should (hopefully) be here later this week. While I've been waiting for it to arrive, I've been reviewing the manual for my model (2010 - 04052). I noticed a section in the manual regarding adjusting the front roller to match turf conditions. Apparently, there are three different positions where the front roller can be adjusted to accommodate three conditions:
> 
> 1. Groomer Installed
> 2. No Groomer installed
> 3. Severely undulating turf.
> 
> 
> 
> I already know that my personal situation falls under #3. And this is where I will most likely set my roller to once my GM1000 arrives.
> 
> The only problem is that I really don't understand what is going on in the diagram. The manual is somewhat vague in regards to what actually happens once the reel is adjusted. Also, the diagram doesn't clearly show how to make the adjustments. (The 2nd and 3rd pictures look almost identical in the diagram below.)
> 
> Has anyone made these adjustments... specifically for scenario #3 with severely undulating turf conditions? If so, has there benefit to making this adjustment?
> 
> I guess I'm trying to figure out if I should leave it in the 2nd position without a groomer (because I don't have one) or should I move it to the 3rd position due to the conditions of my undulating turf?
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> If you look closely you'll see the mounting points are switched in 2nd and 3rd positions.. front and back..in order to do this switch you will have to swap/reverse the roller mounts. left for right right for left.
Click to expand...

Thank you. The difference was staring at me in plain sight. I never claimed to be bright. (I went to public school)

Thanks again!


----------



## Guest

Enjoy your low mow, Sir!


----------



## TheSwede

I have found a Flex21 from 2012 that is well within my budget. However, it has a groomer installed and as I understand it, I need to remove the groomer in order to fit the "extended HOC kit". My target HOC is probably right around 0.5, but I will need the ability mow at a higher HOC depending on the season.

Now, what parts will I need in order to be able to install the extended HOC kit on this Flex21?


----------



## rjw0283

TheSwede said:


> I have found a Flex21 from 2012 that is well within my budget. However, it has a groomer installed and as I understand it, I need to remove the groomer in order to fit the "extended HOC kit". My target HOC is probably right around 0.5, but I will need the ability mow at a higher HOC depending on the season.
> 
> Now, what parts will I need in order to be able to install the extended HOC kit on this Flex21?


Go to the Toro parts website listed in this forum or Google it. Put model and serial # and under parts it lists accessories you should find it under there. Then Google the part # to see who is selling it. It may be the same # I ordered, however I'd verify.


----------



## Kmartel

Twister_1975 said:


> THX for writing. In the Toro Prospekt Is the High HOC for the 2100 the 120-9600. But this is without groomer. I am suching for a Arm like the Nr. 1 in the picture, only for higher cut. Do anybody use a higher cut 20-25 mm with groomer? Thx buddys


As far as I could figure out when I got my flex you have remove the groomer to use the high HOC brackets.


----------



## rjw0283

Cleaned her up alot, she's not the prettiest but the motor is good. I had to hack up the Toro plastic where handles are... At some point everything got bent and welded and handles were hitting plastic... Not anymore. I did confirm it's just a reel clutch cable. Reel engages fine while I manually pull linkage. Once I get that and high hoc kit, she'll be ready for primetime. My lumpy sloped yard isn't but ohh well. 


Got used grass catcher on eBay today!!!


----------



## Kizzle65

rjw0283 said:


> Cleaned her up alot, she's not the prettiest but the motor is good. I had to hack up the Toro plastic where handles are... At some point everything got bent and welded and handles were hitting plastic... Not anymore. I did confirm it's just a reel clutch cable. Reel engages fine while I manually pull linkage. Once I get that and high hoc kit, she'll be ready for primetime. My lumpy sloped yard isn't but ohh well.
> 
> 
> Got used grass catcher on eBay today!!!


 Use anything special to clean and shine up the aluminum case for the tranny?


----------



## rjw0283

Kizzle65 said:


> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cleaned her up alot, she's not the prettiest but the motor is good. I had to hack up the Toro plastic where handles are... At some point everything got bent and welded and handles were hitting plastic... Not anymore. I did confirm it's just a reel clutch cable. Reel engages fine while I manually pull linkage. Once I get that and high hoc kit, she'll be ready for primetime. My lumpy sloped yard isn't but ohh well.
> 
> 
> Got used grass catcher on eBay today!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Use anything special to clean and shine up the aluminum case for the tranny?
Click to expand...

I actually used a water based stripper. It had a bunch of blue spray paint, so I used that with a combination of a nylon brush and a light sanding. I only did the front and top, I got tired after that. I mostly wanted the blue spray paint off.


----------



## TheSwede

rjw0283 said:


> TheSwede said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have found a Flex21 from 2012 that is well within my budget. However, it has a groomer installed and as I understand it, I need to remove the groomer in order to fit the "extended HOC kit". My target HOC is probably right around 0.5, but I will need the ability mow at a higher HOC depending on the season.
> 
> Now, what parts will I need in order to be able to install the extended HOC kit on this Flex21?
> 
> 
> 
> Go to the Toro parts website listed in this forum or Google it. Put model and serial # and under parts it lists accessories you should find it under there. Then Google the part # to see who is selling it. It may be the same # I ordered, however I'd verify.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Thing is that I don't have the serial since I havn't bought the mower (yet). However, after some googling I ended up finding a post in this very thread (I kid you not!) that pretty much answers all my questions regarding converting a Flex21 with groomer to a high HOC Flex21:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=114165#p114165


----------



## htnguyen7

Does anybody know what kind of tool I can use to loosen the drum pulley? It seems a little bit odd in shape.


----------



## rjw0283

htnguyen7 said:


> Does anybody know what kind of tool I can use to loosen the drum pulley? It seems a little bit odd in shape.


Did you try the service manual? I was able to find my manual on the toro websites and downloaded them, I do not know the answer to your questions as that is different then what's on my flex.


----------



## rjw0283

rjw0283 said:


> Cleaned her up alot, she's not the prettiest but the motor is good. I had to hack up the Toro plastic where handles are... At some point everything got bent and welded and handles were hitting plastic... Not anymore. I did confirm it's just a reel clutch cable. Reel engages fine while I manually pull linkage. Once I get that and high hoc kit, she'll be ready for primetime. My lumpy sloped yard isn't but ohh well.
> 
> 
> Got used grass catcher on eBay today!!!


I got the high HOC brackets today and slapped them on, got my height set a little under an inch, I'm hoping my new reel clutch cable comes in tomorrow, it was about 108 bucks with shipping!! HOC brackets were about that much maybe even more, which is ridiculous for 2 pieces of metal, but they know you'll pay for it I guess.


----------



## htnguyen7

rjw0283 said:


> htnguyen7 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody know what kind of tool I can use to loosen the drum pulley? It seems a little bit odd in shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you try the service manual? I was able to find my manual on the toro websites and downloaded them, I do not know the answer to your questions as that is different then what's on my flex.
Click to expand...

The manual seemly stated to "use a suitable wrench on the flats of the drum shaft, between the drum and the frame, to lock the shaft". I've done this before to remove the actual axles that the transport wheels go on.
As for actually drum pulley, manual just stated "unscrew the drum pulley". That's it.


----------



## Cjames1603

I even had to saw the axles off the transport wheels. That stuff in there does not like to turn.


----------



## Kizzle65

Cjames1603 said:


> I even had to saw the axles off the transport wheels. That stuff in there does not like to turn.


I removed mine with an impact drill.


----------



## Pamboys09

Cjames1603 said:


> I even had to saw the axles off the transport wheels. That stuff in there does not like to turn.


I think one is reverse thread. Anyone can confirm?


----------



## Kizzle65

Pamboys09 said:


> Cjames1603 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I even had to saw the axles off the transport wheels. That stuff in there does not like to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> I think one is reverse thread. Anyone can confirm?
Click to expand...

Yes


----------



## rjw0283

Kizzle65 said:


> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cjames1603 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I even had to saw the axles off the transport wheels. That stuff in there does not like to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> I think one is reverse thread. Anyone can confirm?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes
Click to expand...

I used the impact, and then I used a huge breaker bar and alot of jumping on it, I also broke out the torch, tried that for about 40 minutes, before I went all in and started destroying stuff, I got the sawzall out and had them out in 2 minutes. I should have done that from the start, I don't have the wheels anyways. Plus I don't ever plan on getting rid of this beast.


----------



## rjw0283

htnguyen7 said:


> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> htnguyen7 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody know what kind of tool I can use to loosen the drum pulley? It seems a little bit odd in shape.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you try the service manual? I was able to find my manual on the toro websites and downloaded them, I do not know the answer to your questions as that is different then what's on my flex.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The manual seemly stated to "use a suitable wrench on the flats of the drum shaft, between the drum and the frame, to lock the shaft". I've done this before to remove the actual axles that the transport wheels go on.
> As for actually drum pulley, manual just stated "unscrew the drum pulley". That's it.
Click to expand...

The manual is very vague at times, in some areas they go in great detail but in others its like "Just remove parts and put the new one back on" Might as well say we didn't do this procedure when developing the manual sooo... "Figure it out stupid"


----------



## htnguyen7

Hahaha no kidding. Regardless, I was able to slide the "closure" behind the flangette without taking unscrewing the drum pulley and taken the entire right side apart. Did I struggle through it? Heck yea but oh well whatever it takes.
Below is the picture to show what I'm talking about.


----------



## FedDawg555

Pamboys09 said:


> Cjames1603 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I even had to saw the axles off the transport wheels. That stuff in there does not like to turn.
> 
> 
> 
> I think one is reverse thread. Anyone can confirm?
Click to expand...

Yes right side is reversed thread.

You need 1 inch wrench, 7/8 socket and a 24" pipe/breaker bar. I did mine few weeks back popped off really easily with right tools aka breaker bar.

Here's a video on how to remove them I made for ya.


----------



## chadh

Anyone figure out a cheaper/homemade solution for the bedknife tool? The tool itself cost about as much as a bedknife.


----------



## Kizzle65

chadh said:


> Anyone figure out a cheaper/homemade solution for the bedknife tool? The tool itself cost about as much as a bedknife.


I bought a set of impact flat head bits and use my impact drill. Works like a charm.


----------



## rjw0283

Kizzle65 said:


> chadh said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone figure out a cheaper/homemade solution for the bedknife tool? The tool itself cost about as much as a bedknife.
> 
> 
> 
> I bought a set of impact flat head bits and use my impact drill. Works like a charm.
Click to expand...

So I changed my bedknife the other day, and before I did it, I went to 4 different stores to find a hand impact driver. No one had one, and the guy at Lowes thought I was making it up and no such tool existed. So I bought an impact Flathead for the impact drill, and it worked for 11 of them but 2 of them got mangled. (I don't think bedknife had been changed for a long long time) But a cheaper solution will be this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R96M9VW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's 20 bucks and you'll have a tool if you decide to do a brake job and they have the screw holding the rotors on.


----------



## rjw0283

You can get the bedknife scews on ebay for pretty cheap. I got 25 for 10 bucks or so.


----------



## DFW_Zoysia

Here is the Cadillac of all the hand ones. It's amazing: https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-NO-25...hand+impact+driver&qid=1591128164&s=hi&sr=1-1

Vessel bits and screwdrivers in general I think are among the best in terms of grip and fit on screws.


----------



## Fitz

https://www.rrproducts.com/Bedknife-Screw-Driver-Tool-product23091?k=bedknife%20screws

I use one of these with a cordless impact gun. Get a 1/4" x 3/8" drive adapter for the impact gun. Works nice. I just changed my bedknife this past weekend for the first time and it was easy with this setup.


----------



## rjw0283

Fitz said:


> https://www.rrproducts.com/Bedknife-Screw-Driver-Tool-product23091?k=bedknife%20screws
> 
> I use one of these with a cordless impact gun. Get a 1/4" x 3/8" drive adapter for the impact gun. Works nice. I just changed my bedknife this past weekend for the first time and it was easy with this setup.


It is definitely the best tool for the job, but 27 dollars for a socket is what bothers me, a hand impact driver at least has other uses. Probably should just buy it, but it's principle. And If I have to cuss at myself every time I change the bedknife.... so be it!! :lol: Realistically, it shouldn't be hard next time as I put anti-seize and I plan to change it more often than every 10 years or however long ago mine was changed before I bought it.


----------



## Kizzle65

DFW_Zoysia said:


> Here is the Cadillac of all the hand ones. It's amazing: https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-NO-25...hand+impact+driver&qid=1591128164&s=hi&sr=1-1
> 
> Vessel bits and screwdrivers in general I think are among the best in terms of grip and fit on screws.


I bought this one too and honestly had no luck with it. What I ended up using was the bits on my impact drill and it was like butter.


----------



## Jay20nj

Buy the $20 impact gun that you hook to your compressor from harbor freight. It was a must have when changing my bedknife and changing my reel to the 8 blade.

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-air-impact-wrench-61718.html


----------



## jrubb42

So I have an 8 blade reel along with a fairway bedknife on my GM1000, but I'm still noticing it's missing a lot of grass blades at 7/8ths of an inch. It cuts paper all the way across very well. Would a clip kit help with this? If so, how much is it? I can't find a price anywhere. Any other suggestions to help?

Edit: to tag @Greendoc. I thought I've seen you talk about clip kits in my random searches before.


----------



## Kizzle65

Anybody around the Northern ATL area and having luck ordering parts from a Toro dealer and getting it delivered by mail? I've been ordering parts from PartsTree.com but its getting annoying lately cause everything is out of stock and they order it from Toro, then it ships to them before they ship to me. Basically an order takes a few weeks, so it's getting annoying.


----------



## htnguyen7

Just noticed something today on my GM1600 which I was not sure if that's the way it was supposed to be or perhaps an error. In the below picture, I noticed the spring was not "collapsed" based on the instruction in the manual. Also noticed a gap of threads behind the adjusting screw. 
My questions are:
1) should the spring be collapsed by tightening the spring tension nut then perform half a turn counterclockwise to loosen it per manual?
2) is there suppose to be a gap showing the threads like that?


----------



## leifcat1

Newbie question!

I just became the proud owner of a GM1000.

When I start the machine everything sounds fine. When I engage the reel and start mowing, I hear this:

https://youtu.be/tm4_Ic1Y8VI

Is this normal? Or does something need to be adjusted?

Thank you in advance!


----------



## Kizzle65

leifcat1 said:


> Newbie question!
> 
> I just became the proud owner of a GM1000.
> 
> When I start the machine everything sounds fine. When I engage the reel and start mowing, I hear this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this normal? Or does something need to be adjusted?
> 
> Thank you in advance!


Sounds like your bedknife is to close to the Reel


----------



## Logan200TCP

Kizzle65 said:


> Sounds like your bedknife is to close to the Reel


I concur


----------



## synergy0852

It doesn't look like the reel is spinning in the video to me. Hard to tell though from that angle. Definitely not how it should sound.


----------



## leifcat1

Kizzle65 said:


> leifcat1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Newbie question!
> 
> I just became the proud owner of a GM1000.
> 
> When I start the machine everything sounds fine. When I engage the reel and start mowing, I hear this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this normal? Or does something need to be adjusted?
> 
> Thank you in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like your bedknife is to close to the Reel
Click to expand...

I appreciate everyone's help! I backed off on the bedknife and the sound is no more. Just out of curiosity, are these things supposed to have no contact or light contact?


----------



## Kizzle65

leifcat1 said:


> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> leifcat1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Newbie question!
> 
> I just became the proud owner of a GM1000.
> 
> When I start the machine everything sounds fine. When I engage the reel and start mowing, I hear this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this normal? Or does something need to be adjusted?
> 
> Thank you in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like your bedknife is to close to the Reel
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I appreciate everyone's help! I backed off on the bedknife and the sound is no more. Just out of curiosity, are these things supposed to have no contact or light contact?
Click to expand...

Enough to back off to not make that noise but able to cut paper in multiple sections. Like a woman, not too tight but not too loose. Lol

You can always also use a drill and pretend to back lap it, in order to see what's going on without starting the engine.


----------



## synergy0852

Per the manual you will want light contact.


----------



## TheSwede

I am just about to start building a small tool shed on a very narrow part of my yard so the shed needs to be no more than about 3 feet wide to allow free passage next to it. As it happens, I just bought a Flex 21 on an online auction and the shed would be a perfect place to store the Flex21. For various reasons I need to get the base of the shed ready early this week and the mower won't arrive until the end of the week. I have tried to find the total width of a Flex21 with transport wheels by googling but with no luck so far (dosn't seem to be in in the service manual, spec sheet etc.). Keeping the unit in the shed I actually won't need the wheels (since the shed is right by the lawn), but I still have the wheel axles that I need to take into consideration (maybe I'll take the wheel axles off, but I still want to make the shed wide enough to fit the unit with transport wheels on).

So, where can I find this information, or can someone maybe measure it for me?


----------



## Kizzle65

TheSwede said:


> I am just about to start building a small tool shed on a very narrow part of my yard so the shed needs to be no more than about 3 feet wide to allow free passage next to it. As it happens, I just bought a Flex 21 on an online auction and the shed would be a perfect place to store the Flex21. For various reasons I need to get the base of the shed ready early this week and the mower won't arrive until the end of the week. I have tried to find the total width of a Flex21 with transport wheels by googling but with no luck so far (dosn't seem to be in in the service manual, spec sheet etc.). Keeping the unit in the shed I actually won't need the wheels (since the shed is right by the lawn), but I still have the wheel axles that I need to take into consideration (maybe I'll take the wheel axles off, but I still want to make the shed wide enough to fit the unit with transport wheels on).
> 
> So, where can I find this information, or can someone maybe measure it for me?


I am not a 100% sure if there is a difference between years but I have a 2006 model and I can measure mine come in a couple days, since I am currently out of town.


----------



## TNTurf

TheSwede said:


> I am just about to start building a small tool shed on a very narrow part of my yard so the shed needs to be no more than about 3 feet wide to allow free passage next to it. As it happens, I just bought a Flex 21 on an online auction and the shed would be a perfect place to store the Flex21. For various reasons I need to get the base of the shed ready early this week and the mower won't arrive until the end of the week. I have tried to find the total width of a Flex21 with transport wheels by googling but with no luck so far (dosn't seem to be in in the service manual, spec sheet etc.). Keeping the unit in the shed I actually won't need the wheels (since the shed is right by the lawn), but I still have the wheel axles that I need to take into consideration (maybe I'll take the wheel axles off, but I still want to make the shed wide enough to fit the unit with transport wheels on).
> 
> So, where can I find this information, or can someone maybe measure it for me?


i dont use the transport wheels since the axles will get hung on things around the yard but here is what I can tell you. The unit without axels is 30", the axels are 3" each and so I would guess with the tires on you are about 38" all in. I could be off a touch but adding the wheels is about 4" per side it seems.


----------



## TheSwede

@TNTurf, thanks for the info, it was exactly what I needed!


----------



## rjw0283

Kizzle65 said:


> Anybody around the Northern ATL area and having luck ordering parts from a Toro dealer and getting it delivered by mail? I've been ordering parts from PartsTree.com but its getting annoying lately cause everything is out of stock and they order it from Toro, then it ships to them before they ship to me. Basically an order takes a few weeks, so it's getting annoying.


I would think you could order from any Toro dealer in the USA. Shipping is shipping. I paid 13 bucks shipping and the place is only 2 hours away. I use Smith Turf Irrigation in Charlotte NC, I've used them once and they had what I needed. I've heard they have quite a bit on hand. Wouldn't hurt to give them a call or call around the USA to different dealers. Chances are shipping is going to be about the same no matter where you order it from.


----------



## Logan200TCP

rjw0283 said:


> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody around the Northern ATL area and having luck ordering parts from a Toro dealer and getting it delivered by mail? I've been ordering parts from PartsTree.com but its getting annoying lately cause everything is out of stock and they order it from Toro, then it ships to them before they ship to me. Basically an order takes a few weeks, so it's getting annoying.
> 
> 
> 
> I would think you could order from any Toro dealer in the USA. Shipping is shipping. I paid 13 bucks shipping and the place is only 2 hours away. I use Smith Turf Irrigation in Charlotte NC, I've used them once and they had what I needed. I've heard they have quite a bit on hand. Wouldn't hurt to give them a call or call around the USA to different dealers. Chances are shipping is going to be about the same no matter where you order it from.
Click to expand...

Supply chains worldwide have been interrupted by COVID.
We are experiencing huge delays from the Toro factory and once received, we are having a challenging time turning them around because of the sheer volume in demand.


----------



## Logan200TCP

TheSwede said:


> I am just about to start building a small tool shed on a very narrow part of my yard so the shed needs to be no more than about 3 feet wide to allow free passage next to it. As it happens, I just bought a Flex 21 on an online auction and the shed would be a perfect place to store the Flex21. For various reasons I need to get the base of the shed ready early this week and the mower won't arrive until the end of the week. I have tried to find the total width of a Flex21 with transport wheels by googling but with no luck so far (dosn't seem to be in in the service manual, spec sheet etc.). Keeping the unit in the shed I actually won't need the wheels (since the shed is right by the lawn), but I still have the wheel axles that I need to take into consideration (maybe I'll take the wheel axles off, but I still want to make the shed wide enough to fit the unit with transport wheels on).
> 
> So, where can I find this information, or can someone maybe measure it for me?


It is 35.5" wide.
Measured a unit.


----------



## EricInGA

Has anyone ever replaced the rubber handle grip? Mine is tearing in a couple spots and would love something more comfortable.


----------



## MasterMech

chadh said:


> Anyone figure out a cheaper/homemade solution for the bedknife tool? The tool itself cost about as much as a bedknife.


All you need is a bit that fits/centers in the slot in the screw PERFECTLY. That's the key to not damaging the slot and making it impossible to remove via normal means. Some of the bedknife tools are also shaped to encourage the user to hold the bit perfectly square on the screw head. If your conscious and deliberate about what your doing, any standard impact bit should get it done, but I have broken a couple on stubborn screws before.

I think the bedknife tools are worth it but I'll slip one in the next time I do a parts or tool order to avoid paying even more for shipping. (I'm looking at you R&R..... :lol


----------



## Philly_Gunner

EricInGA said:


> Has anyone ever replaced the rubber handle grip? Mine is tearing in a couple spots and would love something more comfortable.


I've thought about this. I think when it comes time to do mine I will wrap it with a baseball bat handle wrap. There are all types of material, colors, etc. Would be easy to replace also.


----------



## Di3soft

Hey everyone first time posting here

Just picked up this 2006 greensmaster 1000 last week, overall it's in great shape, starts on one pull and measured the reel and it has plenty of life left and the lights actually work. Replaced air filter and pre-filter, checked the belts, changed gas and oil, greased all fittings. cleaned the little jet on the carb that's easily accessible, and cleaned the fuel filter. Cuts great so far.



Now onto my questions, when I removed the covers everything was covered in grease. as you can see in the following pictures. Is that normal? should I degrease everything by the belts and then regrease the zerg fittings? Also after mowing do I rinse off the reel or use a blower to clean it? Cause if I wash it off do I need to regrease each time?







The last couple of questions. Regarding the parking brake, I know people don't really use them but I like having all my machines topnotch and everything working. as you can see in the picture the traction brake is off to the side should it be straight on the pulley like when I'm holding it?





Regarding bearings, how would I check them on the this mower to see if they need to be replaced?


----------



## Di3soft

tbasing said:


> I recently picked up a GreensMaster 1000 I think it is a 2007. I have a question about the parking brake. When it is off the shoe is cocked to the side so when it is applied it doesn't grab. If I push it straight and then apply the brake it works well. I looked at the diagram and it looks like it assembled correctly.
> 
> Does anyone have any tips on what to do?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Taylor


Were you ever able to figure this out?


----------



## EricInGA

Philly_Gunner said:


> EricInGA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone ever replaced the rubber handle grip? Mine is tearing in a couple spots and would love something more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> I've thought about this. I think when it comes time to do mine I will wrap it with a baseball bat handle wrap. There are all types of material, colors, etc. Would be easy to replace also.
Click to expand...

I like the baseball bat grip idea. That's what I'm going to do!!


----------



## Philly_Gunner

EricInGA said:


> Philly_Gunner said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EricInGA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone ever replaced the rubber handle grip? Mine is tearing in a couple spots and would love something more comfortable.
> 
> 
> 
> I've thought about this. I think when it comes time to do mine I will wrap it with a baseball bat handle wrap. There are all types of material, colors, etc. Would be easy to replace also.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I like the baseball bat grip idea. That's what I'm going to do!!
Click to expand...

Let me know how it works!!


----------



## Logan200TCP

Di3soft said:


> Hey everyone first time posting here
> 
> Just picked up this 2006 greensmaster 1000 last week, overall it's in great shape, starts on one pull and measured the reel and it has plenty of life left and the lights actually work. Replaced air filter and pre-filter, checked the belts, changed gas and oil, greased all fittings. cleaned the little jet on the carb that's easily accessible, and cleaned the fuel filter. Cuts great so far.


Just an FYI, while that basket may fit, it is not the correct basket for a GR1000. That one was designed for a GR3150 triplex mower.


----------



## Di3soft

Logan200TCP said:


> Just an FYI, while that basket may fit, it is not the correct basket for a GR1000. That one was designed for a GR3150 triplex mower.


Thanks :thumbup: will see if I can find one for the 1000


----------



## Kizzle65

So I am wanting to give the Flex 21 a bit more HOC but I'm running out of thread on the screw yet I have plenty of room on the actual HOC bracket. Anybody got longer bolts for these or ideas to take full advantage? Currently the stock bolts are only getting me barely over .5".


----------



## EricInGA

Kizzle65 said:


> So I am wanting to give the Flex 21 a bit more HOC but I'm running out of thread on the screw yet I have plenty of room on the actual HOC bracket. Anybody got longer bolts for these or ideas to take full advantage? Currently the stock bolts are only getting me barely over .5".


There should be longer bolts that come with the high HOC kit. Mine has a longer set with them.


----------



## cwrx82

Kizzle65 said:


> So I am wanting to give the Flex 21 a bit more HOC but I'm running out of thread on the screw yet I have plenty of room on the actual HOC bracket. Anybody got longer bolts for these or ideas to take full advantage? Currently the stock bolts are only getting me barely over .5".


From this pic, that bolt is not seated correctly. The "flange" on the bolt needs to be sitting below the neck it is sitting on. As of right now, there is nothing that will keep the HOC set, it will move with any bump.


----------



## Trippel24

Is there an hour meter on the greensmaster 1000? Curious to know how many mine has on the motor.


----------



## Logan200TCP

Trippel24 said:


> Is there an hour meter on the greensmaster 1000? Curious to know how many mine has on the motor.


It depends on the year.
Late-2000s (if I recall correctly) saw them implemented from the factory.
They started out beside the serial number plate at the back and then moved up to the handle.
If you don't see one there, it is pre-factory installation.


----------



## Trippel24

Logan200TCP said:


> Trippel24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is there an hour meter on the greensmaster 1000? Curious to know how many mine has on the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> It depends on the year.
> Late-2000s (if I recall correctly) saw them implemented from the factory.
> They started out beside the serial number plate at the back and then moved up to the handle.
> If you don't see one there, it is pre-factory installation.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I didn't see one. Mine is 2006


----------



## lawn789

I see where Toro recommends greasing everything if the mower is rinsed with water. How do you guys clean your mowers?


----------



## ABC123

lawn789 said:


> I see where Toro recommends greasing everything if the mower is rinsed with water. How do you guys clean your mowers?


I use a hose With a jet tip and blow dry with the leaf blower.


----------



## lawn789

ABC123 said:


> lawn789 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I see where Toro recommends greasing everything if the mower is rinsed with water. How do you guys clean your mowers?
> 
> 
> 
> I use a hose With a jet tip and blow dry with the leaf blower.
Click to expand...

Ok thanks I'll keep that in mind. I'm assuming as long as you get the water off of it no need to regrease... Didn't know what was standard practice on cleaning these things. Thanks.


----------



## wesleyjw

I've been having a heck of a time attempting to get the right axel off of my Greensmaster 1000 and was hoping that maybe one of you could lead me in the correct direction.

So from what I understand, there's loctite threadlocker used on the axels. I had no problem getting my left axel off, but the right axel is driving me insane!

I've heated up the axel hoping that this would loosen/liquify the threadlocker, but to no avail. Anyhow, I posted a short video here of what's going on.

[media]https://youtu.be/No_Yvznc7LY?t=2[/media]

Any help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Kizzle65

wesleyjw said:


> I've been having a heck of a time attempting to get the right axel off of my Greensmaster 1000 and was hoping that maybe one of you could lead me in the correct direction.
> 
> So from what I understand, there's loctite threadlocker used on the axels. I had no problem getting my left axel off, but the right axel is driving me insane!
> 
> I've heated up the axel hoping that this would loosen/liquify the threadlocker, but to no avail. Anyhow, I posted a short video here of what's going on.
> 
> [media]https://youtu.be/No_Yvznc7LY?t=2[/media]
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!


One of the sides is reverse threaded. Can't remember which one.


----------



## wesleyjw

Kizzle65 said:


> wesleyjw said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been having a heck of a time attempting to get the right axel off of my Greensmaster 1000 and was hoping that maybe one of you could lead me in the correct direction.
> 
> So from what I understand, there's loctite threadlocker used on the axels. I had no problem getting my left axel off, but the right axel is driving me insane!
> 
> I've heated up the axel hoping that this would loosen/liquify the threadlocker, but to no avail. Anyhow, I posted a short video here of what's going on.
> 
> [media]https://youtu.be/No_Yvznc7LY?t=2[/media]
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> One of the sides is reverse threaded. Can't remember which one.
Click to expand...

Yeah, this side i'm working on is reverse threaded.


----------



## Ware

wesleyjw said:


> I've been having a heck of a time attempting to get the right axel off of my Greensmaster 1000 and was hoping that maybe one of you could lead me in the correct direction.
> 
> So from what I understand, there's loctite threadlocker used on the axels. I had no problem getting my left axel off, but the right axel is driving me insane!
> 
> I've heated up the axel hoping that this would loosen/liquify the threadlocker, but to no avail. Anyhow, I posted a short video here of what's going on.
> 
> [media]https://youtu.be/No_Yvznc7LY?t=2[/media]
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!


I would shift your heat to the area of the axle closest to the actual threads. Using a longer breaker bar instead of that ratchet would help too.


----------



## wesleyjw

Ware said:


> wesleyjw said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been having a heck of a time attempting to get the right axel off of my Greensmaster 1000 and was hoping that maybe one of you could lead me in the correct direction.
> 
> So from what I understand, there's loctite threadlocker used on the axels. I had no problem getting my left axel off, but the right axel is driving me insane!
> 
> I've heated up the axel hoping that this would loosen/liquify the threadlocker, but to no avail. Anyhow, I posted a short video here of what's going on.
> 
> [media]https://youtu.be/No_Yvznc7LY?t=2[/media]
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> I would shift your heat to the area of the axle closest to the actual threads. Using a longer breaker bar instead of that ratchet would help too.
Click to expand...

I think i'll need to get my hands on a breaker bar then. I actually was heating up the area nearest to the axel, but when I was filming there, I wasn't (holding the phone and multitasking isn't my strong suit it seems).


----------



## Ware

@wesleyjw yeah I would try that. Torque is force times distance - so 175 lbs of force on that 1 ft long ratchet is basically 175 ft-lbs. Applying the same 175 lbs at the end of a 2 ft long breaker bar would give you 350 ft-lbs of torque.


----------



## wesleyjw

Ware said:


> @wesleyjw yeah I would try that. Torque is force times distance - so 175 lbs of force on that 1 ft long ratchet is basically 175 ft-lbs. Applying the same 175 lbs at the end of a 2 ft long breaker bar would give you 350 ft-lbs of torque.


I ended up using a breaker bar and was able to get it off. Thanks for the help everyone.


----------



## Ware

wesleyjw said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> @wesleyjw yeah I would try that. Torque is force times distance - so 175 lbs of force on that 1 ft long ratchet is basically 175 ft-lbs. Applying the same 175 lbs at the end of a 2 ft long breaker bar would give you 350 ft-lbs of torque.
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up using a breaker bar and was able to get it off. Thanks for the help everyone.
Click to expand...

Excellent! Congrats!


----------



## CamValentine

Went out to the garage this morning and noticed one of my transport wheels had a flat tire and will not hold air. Has anyone had to fix a flat on the greensmaster or flex? Not sure if the wheels have tubes or anything. I din't have time to take a part. Thanks!


----------



## Romangorilla

Has anyone had a problem with their GM 1000 engine surging and then turn off while cutting?
I can't seem to find the cure.
I have done everything that I can think of. I have cleaned the Carb, I have cleaned the fuel filter, air filter, and drained the fuel, then replaced with new gas.
I'm hoping I don't have to replace the carb, because I hear those things are expensive on the Kawasaki motors.
Any insight is welcomed.


----------



## rob13psu

Romangorilla said:


> Has anyone had a problem with their GM 1000 engine surging and then turn off while cutting?
> I can't seem to find the cure.
> I have done everything that I can think of. I have cleaned the Carb, I have cleaned the fuel filter, air filter, and drained the fuel, then replaced with new gas.
> I'm hoping I don't have to replace the carb, because I hear those things are expensive on the Kawasaki motors.
> Any insight is welcomed.


I had the same problem when I first bought the mower, and then the first start of the season. Did you try cleaning the jet pilot as well? That solved my issue. I believe @dfw_pilot posted about it in this thread. Maybe the third or fourth post.


----------



## Romangorilla

rob13psu said:


> Romangorilla said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone had a problem with their GM 1000 engine surging and then turn off while cutting?
> I can't seem to find the cure.
> I have done everything that I can think of. I have cleaned the Carb, I have cleaned the fuel filter, air filter, and drained the fuel, then replaced with new gas.
> I'm hoping I don't have to replace the carb, because I hear those things are expensive on the Kawasaki motors.
> Any insight is welcomed.
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same problem when I first bought the mower, and then the first start of the season. Did you try cleaning the jet pilot as well? That solved my issue. I believe @dfw_pilot posted about it in this thread. Maybe the third or fourth post.
Click to expand...

Yes, I was able to clean it pretty throughly. But still no help.
Lol I feel like I'm missing an obvious solution.


----------



## rob13psu

Romangorilla said:


> rob13psu said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Romangorilla said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone had a problem with their GM 1000 engine surging and then turn off while cutting?
> I can't seem to find the cure.
> I have done everything that I can think of. I have cleaned the Carb, I have cleaned the fuel filter, air filter, and drained the fuel, then replaced with new gas.
> I'm hoping I don't have to replace the carb, because I hear those things are expensive on the Kawasaki motors.
> Any insight is welcomed.
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same problem when I first bought the mower, and then the first start of the season. Did you try cleaning the jet pilot as well? That solved my issue. I believe @dfw_pilot posted about it in this thread. Maybe the third or fourth post.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, I was able to clean it pretty throughly. But still no help.
> Lol I feel like I'm missing an obvious solution.
Click to expand...

One other thing I did. First start this year I cleaned the carb and jet pilot, put in fresh gas and started the mower. As soon as I engaged the clutch to move forward with the reel engaged it would shut off. Then I'd start again and move forward without engaging the reel and it would go. Then tried to engage the reel and it would shut off. I was crushed! Then I couldn't get it started. Couldn't figure out what I had done wrong...

Turns out I had shut off the fuel to the carb. :bd: :bd: Turned it back on and I was good to go.

I was too excited to mow apparently


----------



## wesleyjw

Romangorilla said:


> Has anyone had a problem with their GM 1000 engine surging and then turn off while cutting?
> I can't seem to find the cure.
> I have done everything that I can think of. I have cleaned the Carb, I have cleaned the fuel filter, air filter, and drained the fuel, then replaced with new gas.
> I'm hoping I don't have to replace the carb, because I hear those things are expensive on the Kawasaki motors.
> Any insight is welcomed.


Does it sound like this?

[media]https://youtu.be/wQYc4fEze9w[/media]

It turns out that mine was the Carb jet, and fuel filter. The fuel wasn't getting to the motor. Mine would eventually just shut off too, and that was with the throttle on 'fast'. If it does sound like that, it is definitely something fuel related.

Since fixing those 2 things (and you've already done that), mine purrs like a kitten now. So my suggestion would be to check the fuel lines, to see that they're ok.


----------



## wesleyjw

oh and one more thing.... make sure that you used a carb cleaner to clean the carb (I used seafoam deep creep), and add some Seafoam Engine in the fuel. That stuff does wonders.


----------



## Kizzle65

wesleyjw said:


> oh and one more thing.... make sure that you used a carb cleaner to clean the carb (I used seafoam deep creep), and add some Seafoam Engine in the fuel. That stuff does wonders.


I use sea foam every few fill ups and no problems so far.


----------



## Romangorilla

wesleyjw said:


> Romangorilla said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone had a problem with their GM 1000 engine surging and then turn off while cutting?
> I can't seem to find the cure.
> I have done everything that I can think of. I have cleaned the Carb, I have cleaned the fuel filter, air filter, and drained the fuel, then replaced with new gas.
> I'm hoping I don't have to replace the carb, because I hear those things are expensive on the Kawasaki motors.
> Any insight is welcomed.
> 
> 
> 
> Does it sound like this?
> 
> [media]https://youtu.be/wQYc4fEze9w[/media]
> 
> It turns out that mine was the Carb jet, and fuel filter. The fuel wasn't getting to the motor. Mine would eventually just shut off too, and that was with the throttle on 'fast'. If it does sound like that, it is definitely something fuel related.
> 
> Since fixing those 2 things (and you've already done that), mine purrs like a kitten now. So my suggestion would be to check the fuel lines, to see that they're ok.
Click to expand...

Yes!
That's exactly what it's doing.
Which fuel lines should I be checking and how?
I'm not very mechanically inclined and very much a visual person, could you please elaborate.

Thanks!


----------



## wesleyjw

Romangorilla said:


> wesleyjw said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Romangorilla said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone had a problem with their GM 1000 engine surging and then turn off while cutting?
> I can't seem to find the cure.
> I have done everything that I can think of. I have cleaned the Carb, I have cleaned the fuel filter, air filter, and drained the fuel, then replaced with new gas.
> I'm hoping I don't have to replace the carb, because I hear those things are expensive on the Kawasaki motors.
> Any insight is welcomed.
> 
> 
> 
> Does it sound like this?
> 
> [media]https://youtu.be/wQYc4fEze9w[/media]
> 
> It turns out that mine was the Carb jet, and fuel filter. The fuel wasn't getting to the motor. Mine would eventually just shut off too, and that was with the throttle on 'fast'. If it does sound like that, it is definitely something fuel related.
> 
> Since fixing those 2 things (and you've already done that), mine purrs like a kitten now. So my suggestion would be to check the fuel lines, to see that they're ok.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes!
> That's exactly what it's doing.
> Which fuel lines should I be checking and how?
> I'm not very mechanically inclined and very much a visual person, could you please elaborate.
> 
> Thanks!
Click to expand...

With the fuel filter, did you usncrew it and take it off? (pointing at it) Then clean it thoroughly?



And you unscrewed the carb pilot screw and sparyed that with carb cleaner?

Drain the fuel tank, and then take off the following fuel lines to make sure there's no debris or anything blocking the actual tubes themselves. You can use the carb cleaner with the red straw to spray a pressurized stream to try to clean it out and thus making sure it's not clogged. There are two fuel lines. This is the first one that leads from the fuel tank to the fuel filter. My finger is pointing at it.

As for the fuel lines, there's a line that leads from the fuel tank down to fuel filter, then another line that leads from the fuel filter to the carb. Here's photo fo the one from the fuel tank to fuel filter.





Here's the other one that leads from the fuel filter to the actual carb itself.



Also, take off the air filter, and make sure that when you turn the lever of the choke, to spray some carb cleaner in there.



After doing all of that, put in the fuel again, and give it start. Try adding seafoam to the fuel as well, and run it for 4-5 minutes.

Good luck!


----------



## Romangorilla

Thanks for this write up, good sir.
I really appreciate it.
I'll give all that a try and see where it stands.
Thanks again.
Very insightful stuff!


----------



## Philly_Gunner

Could someone please help me in finding new v-belts and pulley for my GM 1600. I've looked on all the sites but just can't seem to find the exact ones I need. I'm attaching a picture of my model and serial number for reference.


----------



## Kizzle65

Philly_Gunner said:


> Could someone please help me in finding new v-belts and pulley for my GM 1600. I've looked on all the sites but just can't seem to find the exact ones I need. I'm attaching a picture of my model and serial number for reference.


https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=23006

Enjoy


----------



## Philly_Gunner

Kizzle65 said:


> Philly_Gunner said:
> 
> 
> 
> Could someone please help me in finding new v-belts and pulley for my GM 1600. I've looked on all the sites but just can't seem to find the exact ones I need. I'm attaching a picture of my model and serial number for reference.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=23006
> 
> Enjoy
Click to expand...

Thanks! I just overlooked it in the diagram earlier.


----------



## lawn789

wesleyjw said:


> Romangorilla said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wesleyjw said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does it sound like this?
> 
> [media]https://youtu.be/wQYc4fEze9w[/media]
> 
> It turns out that mine was the Carb jet, and fuel filter. The fuel wasn't getting to the motor. Mine would eventually just shut off too, and that was with the throttle on 'fast'. If it does sound like that, it is definitely something fuel related.
> 
> Since fixing those 2 things (and you've already done that), mine purrs like a kitten now. So my suggestion would be to check the fuel lines, to see that they're ok.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes!
> That's exactly what it's doing.
> Which fuel lines should I be checking and how?
> I'm not very mechanically inclined and very much a visual person, could you please elaborate.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> With the fuel filter, did you usncrew it and take it off? (pointing at it) Then clean it thoroughly?
> 
> 
> 
> And you unscrewed the carb pilot screw and sparyed that with carb cleaner?
> 
> Drain the fuel tank, and then take off the following fuel lines to make sure there's no debris or anything blocking the actual tubes themselves. You can use the carb cleaner with the red straw to spray a pressurized stream to try to clean it out and thus making sure it's not clogged. There are two fuel lines. This is the first one that leads from the fuel tank to the fuel filter. My finger is pointing at it.
> 
> As for the fuel lines, there's a line that leads from the fuel tank down to fuel filter, then another line that leads from the fuel filter to the carb. Here's photo fo the one from the fuel tank to fuel filter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the other one that leads from the fuel filter to the actual carb itself.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, take off the air filter, and make sure that when you turn the lever of the choke, to spray some carb cleaner in there.
> 
> 
> 
> After doing all of that, put in the fuel again, and give it start. Try adding seafoam to the fuel as well, and run it for 4-5 minutes.
> 
> Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thanks for explaining this so well.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

I picked up a used Greensmaster 1000 for an ok price. It will be dedicated to mowing bentgrass greens.

It's missing a front roller. Is it better to go with grooved or solid?

Should I get a groomer?


----------



## The Anti-Rebel

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpqcRLQUAmA


----------



## Kizzle65

The Anti-Rebel said:


>


If only I had the cash to get one of these brand new.


----------



## lawn789

This is my first reel mower of any kind and I'm slowly learning the ins and outs of it. The front roller seems to not be even when looking at it from the front. I just got the HOC set to 1" on both sides (but it looked uneven when I got it and HOC was 1/2). Any tips would be appreciated.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

I got a grooved front roller and bearings for my GM 1000 off ebay.

After maintaining the triplex for several years this looks manageable.

I will probably have to get an accu gauge for it. I dont really need that level of precision for the 1.5 inch ish cuts on the reelmaster but I will at green heights.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

lawn789 said:


> The front roller seems to not be even when looking at it from the front. I just got the HOC set to 1" on both sides (but it looked uneven when I got it and HOC was 1/2)


Put a level on it, try cutting with it, look at the grass after to test.

Could be just adjusting the front roller with the vertical bolts on the end there. Even if the frame is a little bent that may compensate for it.


----------



## lawn789

HoosierLawnGnome said:


> lawn789 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The front roller seems to not be even when looking at it from the front. I just got the HOC set to 1" on both sides (but it looked uneven when I got it and HOC was 1/2)
> 
> 
> 
> Put a level on it, try cutting with it, look at the grass after to test.
> 
> Could be just adjusting the front roller with the vertical bolts on the end there. Even if the frame is a little bent that may compensate for it.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the tips. It's hard to tell exactly why it looks a little crooked from the front. It's more so uneven from a front to back position than height if that makes sense.


----------



## Di3soft

Does anyone have any experience with rr equipment reels? Thinking of picking up the 8 blade and the bearings before fall time


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

Got my GM 1000. Its rough around the edges, probably needs a new bedknife.

The engine runs and starts right up.


Looks like it came with a groomer.


Greased all the bearings, looks like the oil is clean. Reel is rusty but moves well.

I installed the roller but overgreased the bearings. Now i need to figure out how to ungrease them lol.


Needs more TLC. hoc is too low right now.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

I adjusted the HOC to .75 in and lowered the groomer last night. Tweaked reel to bedknife.

Took the transport wheels off for a test cut.

I think the throttle may need tuned up. When i set it on low, it runs WAY too fast to mow, like a swift jog.

When i push the throttle forward, the engine speed does not increase.

However, if i manually move the throttle lever by the engine, engine speed increases.

Is the low speed too high?

I've never done this level of tune up. The guy i bought it off of cleaned out the carburetor, so im wondering if he didnt give it a proper tune up afterwards.

Any advice?


----------



## Di3soft

HoosierLawnGnome said:


> I adjusted the HOC to .75 in and lowered the groomer last night. Tweaked reel to bedknife.
> 
> Took the transport wheels off for a test cut.
> 
> I think the throttle may need tuned up. When i set it on low, it runs WAY too fast to mow, like a swift jog.
> 
> When i push the throttle forward, the engine speed does not increase.
> 
> However, if i manually move the throttle lever by the engine, engine speed increases.
> 
> Is the low speed too high?
> 
> I've never done this level of tune up. The guy i bought it off of cleaned out the carburetor, so im wondering if he didnt give it a proper tune up afterwards.
> 
> Any advice?


On the first page there are owner manuals and service manuals, download them. The instructions are very clear to follow, i recently adjusted the throttle with a cheap 10 dollar tachometer from amazon and it was pretty easy to do


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

Thanks,@Di3soft i have the relevant docs.

I tweaked the carburetor and that seemed to help.






Played with the cable, high and low throttle settings and at least im getting a little variation now.

Seems like when they cleaned it out but didnt tune the engine up. Gear drives and all seem to be in good order. Ill have to order a tach to really dial this in.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

Here I am removing bedknife screws with a hand impact driver

https://youtu.be/wStXrX9LXwI


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

New beknife installed to the bed bar.

I bought an original Toro bedknife and screws from the Toro golf eqipment servicer in the city. A couple bucks more than R&R unless you get free shipping.. Picked it up today. No wait.

The screws were still pretty soft. I messed up several torquing them.

I used a hand impact driver to loosen the screws until i could remove them by hand.

Sanded where the bed bar contacts the bedknife down to metal. Cleaned with engine degreaser. Cleaned out the screw holes with q tips and engine degreaser. Used anti seize on the screws. Installed the screws to bedknife precisely as the service manual directs and tightened them to 230 in lbs.

Then i scraped and sanded missing paint spots, wiped down, and gave it a coat of spray paint. In an hour i will spray paint it again.



So a light refurbish.


----------



## cleohioturf

That slight refurb looks good. Still think the engine is running hot. I don't know how to post videos but I have a ~95 GM1000 and at low idle it's just rumbling. I can't imagine yours when you engage the drive, you'd have to run after it


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

cleohioturf said:


> That slight refurb looks good. Still think the engine is running hot. I don't know how to post videos but I have a ~95 GM1000 and at low idle it's just rumbling. I can't imagine yours when you engage the drive, you'd have to run after it


Thanks. When i put it back together i am going to try it out again. I can crank the carb down to get more of a rumble.

I need the tach to get here!


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

I reinstalled the bed knife and did a test cut after checking HOC. Stil shredding some blades. The ends of the reel seemed thicker as theyre contacting the bedknife first. It isnt cutting paper all the way without contact. So i backlapped. 120 grit. Looks like the drive nut is 14 mm on mne.

I didnt grind or face my bedknife, maybe I should run a file across it a bit.

Ill have to see if its still shredding blades tomorrow. Ran out of sun.


----------



## FedDawg555

So I've seen others having similar issues showing up on the quality of cut and I have some info that may help others. I too have been having streaks and gouges of uncut grass on the right side that initially I thought was 
1. HOC Not even
2. Reel to bedknife
3. Some blades on end of reel being sharp or out of round reel
4. Bedknife not Being straight.
It became maddening trying to figure this out. I confirmed HOC was dead nuts on both sides. I could cut paper at .002 gap all away across except last 2 inches on right with only 4 out 8 blades cutting.
The reel was just sharpened so that wasn't it and bedknife too.
I began to think that my rear drum may not be parallel to the reel as I noticed when I placed my HOC gage on there was a slight gap.
So instead of just throwing money at it and adjusting every mow trying to fix it I called a Jerry Pate in Atlanta.
Initially they thought my reel may not have been ground perfectly round since I was not cutting on each blade at end of reel but they wanted to check that everything was parallel too.
They picked up the 1600 on Tuesday and called me today to let me know what the problem is.
The right side drum bearings were bad causing the drum out of parallel with reel. He said you would have driven yourself mad adjusting reel to bedknife or loosening the drum to parallel it but the problem would have still been there. My drum never sounded wrong or rolled weird so I never even thought the bearing being bad.
Anyway it's being fixed now and problem solved. So keep that issue in mind if you've tried everything else. 
Here's a pic of the step cut streaking I was having the full length of the run and no amount of overlap would fix it.

JP said a lot of people fail to grease those 2 fitting or try and never get grease in them because there so hard to reach. He told me to make sure you have a needle greaser or a lock n lube. I have both and even the lock n lube sometimes doesn't get grease into those as it just spills out the sides. @Ware brought up this needle grease tool and I found it works great for these two fitting. Sadly the damage was already done before I owned the unit.


----------



## FATC1TY

Great info.

Do you mind PM me the cost of said service from JP? I'm local and interested in this, have something similar at times, but not sure.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

@FedDawg555 great heads up on those grease joints. I replaced all my other lubrication with marine grease, so I'll have to hunt those down too.

My air filter didnt look great so i went ahead and ordered one for a decent price on ebay.

Does anyone put belt conditioner on their drive belts?


----------



## FedDawg555

FATC1TY said:


> Great info.
> 
> Do you mind PM me the cost of said service from JP? I'm local and interested in this, have something similar at times, but not sure.


I post here once I know total. Bearings not that expensive, I'm sure labor will be bulk of cost to disassemble drum and extract/ replace.

If you want to speak with the service manager at Jerry Pate Atlanta his name is:
Bruce Downing (404) 664-4387


----------



## FedDawg555

Jerry Pate sent me a pic of one of the rear roller drum bearings that was toast. It's amazing the drum rolled at all.

So all in all I had them Replace all the drum bearings, install new Toro high cut bedknife and new screws, regrind reel, New front roller bearings, change oil/spark plug, adjust belts, included the 78 mile pickup and delivery.......total $617.00
@FATC1TY


----------



## ken-n-nancy

FedDawg555 said:


> Jerry Pate sent me a pic of one of the rear roller drum bearings that was toast. It's amazing the drum rolled at all.
> 
> So all in all I had them Replace all the drum bearings, install new Toro high cut bedknife and new screws, regrind reel, New front roller bearings, change oil/spark plug, adjust belts, included the 78 mile pickup and delivery.......total $617.00


By "... included the 78 mile pickup and delivery..." you mean that they came and picked the mower up from your house, took it back to their shop to make the repairs, and then delivered it back to your house again, and that was included in the $617? And that is a 78-mile round-trip that they did twice -- all in the $617 total?


----------



## FedDawg555

ken-n-nancy said:


> FedDawg555 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Jerry Pate sent me a pic of one of the rear roller drum bearings that was toast. It's amazing the drum rolled at all.
> 
> So all in all I had them Replace all the drum bearings, install new Toro high cut bedknife and new screws, regrind reel, New front roller bearings, change oil/spark plug, adjust belts, included the 78 mile pickup and delivery.......total $617.00
> 
> 
> 
> By "... included the 78 mile pickup and delivery..." you mean that they came and picked the mower up from your house, took it back to their shop to make the repairs, and then delivered it back to your house again, and that was included in the $617? And that is a 78-mile round-trip that they did twice -- all in the $617 total?
Click to expand...

Yes....so about $225 in that is pickup and delivery in that total. With my work schedule it was worth it or it may have been month Before I could have gotten it to Atlanta.

So if your able to drop it off no pickup fee and take that out of total...parts and labor are pretty reasonable.

If this was just reel sharpening I'll go to reel works but a major repair I felt it needed to go to the pros. I should have unit back by Next Tuesday. Thank God I'm under pgr regulation, still 8 days without a mow.


----------



## FATC1TY

I don't have a problem dropping off and picking up, so not a bad price!

I need my groomer worked on, and probably just some maintenance in general. Might have them look it over during the end of the season.

Thanks for the follow up!


----------



## FedDawg555

FATC1TY said:


> I don't have a problem dropping off and picking up, so not a bad price!
> 
> I need my groomer worked on, and probably just some maintenance in general. Might have them look it over during the end of the season.
> 
> Thanks for the follow up!


That's the thing, if I wasn't 80 miles from Atlanta and traveling so much for work, I would drop it off too. This bearing issue hit me at a time where I couldn't get it to them, so it was nice they picked it up. I also set up an account with them 2 months ago where I can order Toro parts online which is nice for repairs you can handle or Toro parts in general. You may want to get one too it's a simple application and they give you online access to the Toro Commercial parts you can order directly.


----------



## lawn789

To improve quality of cut at higher cuts (.75) What would you recommend trying first? 8 blade reel or clip kit?


----------



## FedDawg555

lawn789 said:


> To improve quality of cut at higher cuts (.75) What would you recommend trying first? 8 blade reel or clip kit?


When I first got my 1600 I was cutting at .875, .75 and .65 with no problem whatsoever with an 8 blade reel.
Some say you need both but I would do a 8 blade first at $280 and assess before buying The clip kit at $320.


----------



## lawn789

FedDawg555 said:


> lawn789 said:
> 
> 
> 
> To improve quality of cut at higher cuts (.75) What would you recommend trying first? 8 blade reel or clip kit?
> 
> 
> 
> When I first got my 1600 I was cutting at .875, .75 and .65 with no problem whatsoever with an 8 blade reel.
> Some say you need both but I would do a 8 blade first at $280 and assess before buying The clip kit at $320.
Click to expand...

Id like to be able to cut at those heights. It may be best to replace bedknife too. Do you know if any of that would need to be professionally sharped or just a backlap would do?


----------



## FedDawg555

I just had Jerry Pate put a new High Cut bedknife on while repairing drum bearings and they said it needs to be ground to mate Perfectly with The reel. New Toro bedknife is $50.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

Swapped out the air filter with a new one. The old one no longer had the foam filter and the fiam seal was disintegrated.

Soaked the foam filters in 10w 30 oil and wrung them out.

Plugged in, fired her up. It idled a little rougher so i turned up the low idle speed. Probably because the old filter wasn't drawing air through as many filters. Too much aspiration could be another contributing factor to how hot it was running originally.


Good little maintenance investment.


----------



## Kizzle65

HoosierLawnGnome said:


> Swapped out the air filter with a new one. The old one no longer had the foam filter and the fiam seal was disintegrated.
> 
> Soaked the foam filters in 10w 30 oil and wrung them out.
> 
> Plugged in, fired her up. It idled a little rougher so i turned up the low idle speed. Probably because the old filter wasn't drawing air through as many filters. Too much aspiration could be another contributing factor to how hot it was running originally.
> 
> 
> Good little maintenance investment.


Clean the carb out, replace/clean fuel filter, take the gas tank off and clean it out. Also, never hurts to run some SeaFoam through the system. I pour a bit every few fill ups.


----------



## rjw0283

always use ethanol free gasoline if you can get it.


----------



## Kizzle65

rjw0283 said:


> always use ethanol free gasoline if you can get it.


absolutely!!!!!!


----------



## FedDawg555

rjw0283 said:


> always use ethanol free gasoline if you can get it.


Absolutely.....I started 7 years ago after numerous small engine problems related to fuel even with stabilizers. Since switching to only non ethanol not a single issue with any mower or small engine. For my 2 cycle units like trimmers, chainsaw, and blower I only use canned premix gas/oil like echo red max or Tru fuel. Not one single issue with carbs or engines. Ethanol fuel is the devil plain and simple.

I only add Yamahas Ring Free to my 5 gallon refill gas tanks at 1 oz per 5 gallons. It removes and prevents carbon buildup. My boat manufacture recommended I use it in my 200 HP outboard with every fill up. 4 years later it had to go in for a preventative valve adjustment. The mechanic said he's never seen a cylinder, piston, and valves look brand new after 4 years. I told him I've been using Ring Free he said well that's why! Excellent product.


----------



## Kizzle65

FedDawg555 said:


> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Georgia Bulldogs is the devil plain and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed it. :tease:
Click to expand...


----------



## FedDawg555

Kizzle65 said:


> FedDawg555 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Georgia Bulldogs is the devil plain and simple.
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed it. :tease:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Lol
> 
> Rose Bowl between us was the Best game I've ever been too!
Click to expand...


----------



## FedDawg555




----------



## FATC1TY

Kizzle65 said:


> HoosierLawnGnome said:
> 
> 
> 
> Swapped out the air filter with a new one. The old one no longer had the foam filter and the fiam seal was disintegrated.
> 
> Soaked the foam filters in 10w 30 oil and wrung them out.
> 
> Plugged in, fired her up. It idled a little rougher so i turned up the low idle speed. Probably because the old filter wasn't drawing air through as many filters. Too much aspiration could be another contributing factor to how hot it was running originally.
> 
> 
> Good little maintenance investment.
> 
> 
> 
> Clean the carb out, replace/clean fuel filter, take the gas tank off and clean it out. Also, never hurts to run some SeaFoam through the system. I pour a bit every few fill ups.
Click to expand...

Same. I pour some sea foam in, and I also treat my gas with stabil and ONLY use non ethanol gas for my lawn equipment


----------



## SpeedNess

I have found a GM1000 locally, older model 04050 or 04051, with "grenade" style HOC adjusment knobs. It looks to be pretty good shape from the pictures. Seller states it starts and runs perfect, but the reel could use a sharpening. Comes with the grass catcher too.

He is willing to go as low as $450, will this be a good deal if all the mower needs is a sharpening? Thanks!


----------



## Oceanus

Generically, it's a good price for a GM1000 that is immediately usable with a basket.

Like used cars, it depends on local market and actual condition of item. Sharpening is part of regular maintenance that is required sooner or later.


----------



## SpeedNess

@Oceanus that was my thinking also. I forgot to ask what reel is in this thing, I'm thinking 11 blade. But pretty sure I'm going to pull the trigger on it once I go and actually see it in person. thanks!


----------



## FATC1TY

So I trashed my reel the other month hitting a vent pipe under the turf at the wrong angle. Was able to use a file and get it straight and mowed acceptable. Knew I'd need to change reel at end of season.

Fast forward to last night, and that reel area and the bed knife decided to give up the goat as it dinged the driveway a bit.



Called Jerry Pat Turf and got a new reel, high cut bedknife, bearings, seals, and screws for the knife. All delivered apparently in one day shipping for less than I could the R&R products stuff.

Pretty impressed- let's see how it works out, especially for true toro parts.

That said.... any videos or breakdowns of a start to finish process or tips to getting the reel and whatnot apart? Any special tools I should seek out before hand ?

After it's all assembled am I going to need to find a place to grind it all, or will I be able to backlap and mate the surfaces myself and use a bastard file to face the bedknife after it all and get back to cutting?

Kind of worried my PGR is about to give up the suppression, and I'll need to mow by Monday. Hoping I can get it all in and set up by the end of the weekend.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

I am going to use mine to scalp the greens I'm building on my golf course, then I'll probably take it in for a grind and sharpening.


----------



## FedDawg555

FATC1TY said:


> So I trashed my reel the other month hitting a vent pipe under the turf at the wrong angle. Was able to use a file and get it straight and mowed acceptable. Knew I'd need to change reel at end of season.
> 
> Fast forward to last night, and that reel area and the bed knife decided to give up the goat as it dinged the driveway a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Called Jerry Pat Turf and got a new reel, high cut bedknife, bearings, seals, and screws for the knife. All delivered apparently in one day shipping for less than I could the R&R products stuff.
> 
> Pretty impressed- let's see how it works out, especially for true toro parts.
> 
> That said.... any videos or breakdowns of a start to finish process or tips to getting the reel and whatnot apart? Any special tools I should seek out before hand ?
> 
> After it's all assembled am I going to need to find a place to grind it all, or will I be able to backlap and mate the surfaces myself and use a bastard file to face the bedknife after it all and get back to cutting?
> 
> Kind of worried my PGR is about to give up the suppression, and I'll need to mow by Monday. Hoping I can get it all in and set up by the end of the weekend.


Damn that sucks. I get mine back tomorrow so 8 days without mowing...uggg I'm not looking forward to it.
Jerry Pate can do your grinding on both the reel and bedknife. I bet same day if you call Bruce and arrange you could probably take it and they knock it out while you wait.


----------



## Greendoc

FATC1TY said:


> So I trashed my reel the other month hitting a vent pipe under the turf at the wrong angle. Was able to use a file and get it straight and mowed acceptable. Knew I'd need to change reel at end of season.
> 
> Fast forward to last night, and that reel area and the bed knife decided to give up the goat as it dinged the driveway a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Called Jerry Pat Turf and got a new reel, high cut bedknife, bearings, seals, and screws for the knife. All delivered apparently in one day shipping for less than I could the R&R products stuff.
> 
> Pretty impressed- let's see how it works out, especially for true toro parts.
> 
> That said.... any videos or breakdowns of a start to finish process or tips to getting the reel and whatnot apart? Any special tools I should seek out before hand ?
> 
> After it's all assembled am I going to need to find a place to grind it all, or will I be able to backlap and mate the surfaces myself and use a bastard file to face the bedknife after it all and get back to cutting?
> 
> Kind of worried my PGR is about to give up the suppression, and I'll need to mow by Monday. Hoping I can get it all in and set up by the end of the weekend.


I have not needed more than a backlapping with 180 or 220 grit compound to mate a reel to a bedknife. No need to square or face grind a bedknife after either the brief backlap needed to mate a reel and bedknife.


----------



## FedDawg555

8 days without my GM1600 and 9 days since my last mow at .75. Even under regulation I tried to hold off as long as I could. Took the zero Turn out at its lowest setting of 1.25 and it absolutely Thrashed the lawn. It's amazing a reel at .75 doesn't scalp but a zero at 1.25 yard looks like horse trash. Oh well, I'll reset the HOC tomorrow With a summer scalp once the GM1600 gets home.

I will say this once you go full reel it's like carrying a gun on duty 1 is none and 2 is 1. Meaning I will be looking for another GM1600 or a 1000 to have a backup/scalp mower to use when the primary is being serviced.


----------



## SpeedNess

So I ended picking up the GM1000 tonight from my previous post. Everything seems to be working properly, starts on first pull. I called the only local place that I know off that sharpens reels and they quote $150-$200. So instead of getting it sharpened I'm just going to get a new 8 blade reel along withe the high cut knife and probably bearings and seals while Im at it.

This leads me to my question, plan on ordering from RR (unless someone knows of a better place to get it). I need help determining what high cut knife I need, RR shows three high cut knifes. Hight Cut, Super thick and fairway cut. The three of them cut up to 1" which is what I need but not exactly sure which one I should get, will appreciate your help.



And I pic of the mower as soon as I got it home. I'm super excited.


----------



## FATC1TY

FedDawg555 said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I trashed my reel the other month hitting a vent pipe under the turf at the wrong angle. Was able to use a file and get it straight and mowed acceptable. Knew I'd need to change reel at end of season.
> 
> Fast forward to last night, and that reel area and the bed knife decided to give up the goat as it dinged the driveway a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Called Jerry Pat Turf and got a new reel, high cut bedknife, bearings, seals, and screws for the knife. All delivered apparently in one day shipping for less than I could the R&R products stuff.
> 
> Pretty impressed- let's see how it works out, especially for true toro parts.
> 
> That said.... any videos or breakdowns of a start to finish process or tips to getting the reel and whatnot apart? Any special tools I should seek out before hand ?
> 
> After it's all assembled am I going to need to find a place to grind it all, or will I be able to backlap and mate the surfaces myself and use a bastard file to face the bedknife after it all and get back to cutting?
> 
> Kind of worried my PGR is about to give up the suppression, and I'll need to mow by Monday. Hoping I can get it all in and set up by the end of the weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn that sucks. I get mine back tomorrow so 8 days without mowing...uggg I'm not looking forward to it.
> Jerry Pate can do your grinding on both the reel and bedknife. I bet same day if you call Bruce and arrange you could probably take it and they knock it out while you wait.
Click to expand...

Want to PM me the info for Bruce. I called yesterday and ATL phones were down so it went to the Pensacola HQ. Had a message in for someone in ATL service today call me but nothing. Went ahead and ordered parts. Figured worst case I take it to them.

However they did say they are not allowing walk ins? All parts are shipped and I wonder if any work needed is done mobile or brought back to the shop and then delivered.

I'm trying to find the quickest down time possible. I've already spend 400+ on reels, bedknives, bearings and seals, I just want to get them in and back in better shape than before!!


----------



## FATC1TY

Greendoc said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I trashed my reel the other month hitting a vent pipe under the turf at the wrong angle. Was able to use a file and get it straight and mowed acceptable. Knew I'd need to change reel at end of season.
> 
> Fast forward to last night, and that reel area and the bed knife decided to give up the goat as it dinged the driveway a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Called Jerry Pat Turf and got a new reel, high cut bedknife, bearings, seals, and screws for the knife. All delivered apparently in one day shipping for less than I could the R&R products stuff.
> 
> Pretty impressed- let's see how it works out, especially for true toro parts.
> 
> That said.... any videos or breakdowns of a start to finish process or tips to getting the reel and whatnot apart? Any special tools I should seek out before hand ?
> 
> After it's all assembled am I going to need to find a place to grind it all, or will I be able to backlap and mate the surfaces myself and use a bastard file to face the bedknife after it all and get back to cutting?
> 
> Kind of worried my PGR is about to give up the suppression, and I'll need to mow by Monday. Hoping I can get it all in and set up by the end of the weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> I have not needed more than a backlapping with 180 or 220 grit compound to mate a reel to a bedknife. No need to square or face grind a bedknife after either the brief backlap needed to mate a reel and bedknife.
Click to expand...

Fantastic. I have compounds and the ability to backlap so this helps to know. Was fearing I needed to go call my neighborhood super and see if I could throw the mower on the back of a trailer for him to sharpen and work on.

Any resources on how to take it all apart now? 😬


----------



## lawn789

FATC1TY said:


> Greendoc said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I trashed my reel the other month hitting a vent pipe under the turf at the wrong angle. Was able to use a file and get it straight and mowed acceptable. Knew I'd need to change reel at end of season.
> 
> Fast forward to last night, and that reel area and the bed knife decided to give up the goat as it dinged the driveway a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Called Jerry Pat Turf and got a new reel, high cut bedknife, bearings, seals, and screws for the knife. All delivered apparently in one day shipping for less than I could the R&R products stuff.
> 
> Pretty impressed- let's see how it works out, especially for true toro parts.
> 
> That said.... any videos or breakdowns of a start to finish process or tips to getting the reel and whatnot apart? Any special tools I should seek out before hand ?
> 
> After it's all assembled am I going to need to find a place to grind it all, or will I be able to backlap and mate the surfaces myself and use a bastard file to face the bedknife after it all and get back to cutting?
> 
> Kind of worried my PGR is about to give up the suppression, and I'll need to mow by Monday. Hoping I can get it all in and set up by the end of the weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> I have not needed more than a backlapping with 180 or 220 grit compound to mate a reel to a bedknife. No need to square or face grind a bedknife after either the brief backlap needed to mate a reel and bedknife.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Fantastic. I have compounds and the ability to backlap so this helps to know. Was fearing I needed to go call my neighborhood super and see if I could throw the mower on the back of a trailer for him to sharpen and work on.
> 
> Any resources on how to take it all apart now? 😬
Click to expand...

Yes good to know for me as well. If I had to take it to a professional every time a bed knife or something had to be replaced I'd reconsider this mower..lol.


----------



## FedDawg555

FATC1TY said:


> FedDawg555 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I trashed my reel the other month hitting a vent pipe under the turf at the wrong angle. Was able to use a file and get it straight and mowed acceptable. Knew I'd need to change reel at end of season.
> 
> Fast forward to last night, and that reel area and the bed knife decided to give up the goat as it dinged the driveway a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Called Jerry Pat Turf and got a new reel, high cut bedknife, bearings, seals, and screws for the knife. All delivered apparently in one day shipping for less than I could the R&R products stuff.
> 
> Pretty impressed- let's see how it works out, especially for true toro parts.
> 
> That said.... any videos or breakdowns of a start to finish process or tips to getting the reel and whatnot apart? Any special tools I should seek out before hand ?
> 
> After it's all assembled am I going to need to find a place to grind it all, or will I be able to backlap and mate the surfaces myself and use a bastard file to face the bedknife after it all and get back to cutting?
> 
> Kind of worried my PGR is about to give up the suppression, and I'll need to mow by Monday. Hoping I can get it all in and set up by the end of the weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> Damn that sucks. I get mine back tomorrow so 8 days without mowing...uggg I'm not looking forward to it.
> Jerry Pate can do your grinding on both the reel and bedknife. I bet same day if you call Bruce and arrange you could probably take it and they knock it out while you wait.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Want to PM me the info for Bruce. I called yesterday and ATL phones were down so it went to the Pensacola HQ. Had a message in for someone in ATL service today call me but nothing. Went ahead and ordered parts. Figured worst case I take it to them.
> 
> However they did say they are not allowing walk ins? All parts are shipped and I wonder if any work needed is done mobile or brought back to the shop and then delivered.
> 
> I'm trying to find the quickest down time possible. I've already spend 400+ on reels, bedknives, bearings and seals, I just want to get them in and back in better shape than before!!
Click to expand...

Just PM you


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

@SpeedNess That's about what I was quoted for a grind and sharpening too, but they said it just all depends on what they find

ETA: You got a good deal IMO! I paid more for one that was missing the front roller, similar shape, but had a groomer and was shipped for the price I paid. Freight itself costs a good bit. They are very hard to find locally here!

@Greendoc I backlapped my reel the other night. I still have contact on the edges of the reel before the center, so my thinking is the reel is misshapen since the bedknife is brand new. Is a little of that to be expected when mating the two? I'm leaving enough gap there is no audible contact right now, but it doesn't cut paper in the middle then. I can crank it down, but I'm concerned it may misshape things. Of course I can just take it in for a proper grind and all that, but I want to make sure I'm not being pedantic.


----------



## FATC1TY

Alright.... how the he'll do I get this off? I'm assuming based on the service manual this part the 1/2 socket goes in, is threaded into the reel thru the bearing housing.

Having trouble locking the reel down, and getting this off, assuming it not reverse threaded, right?


----------



## FATC1TY

Forgot to add, this mower has a groomer. Does the whole groomer assembly need removed as well? Assuming I can remove the reel and leave the rest. I did remove the bed bar, but no one has the tool for the bedknife in stock and went without it.

Any ideas on ways to get them out without the tool?

@Ware


----------



## Ware

FATC1TY said:


> Forgot to add, this mower has a groomer. Does the whole groomer assembly need removed as well? Assuming I can remove the reel and leave the rest. I did remove the bed bar, but no one has the tool for the bedknife in stock and went without it.
> 
> Any ideas on ways to get them out without the tool?
> 
> @Ware


Are you using an impact driver to break the bedknife screws loose? One of the standard flat bits may fit.

I could mail you the tool, but it would take a few days to get there.


----------



## FATC1TY

Ware said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> Forgot to add, this mower has a groomer. Does the whole groomer assembly need removed as well? Assuming I can remove the reel and leave the rest. I did remove the bed bar, but no one has the tool for the bedknife in stock and went without it.
> 
> Any ideas on ways to get them out without the tool?
> 
> @Ware
> 
> 
> 
> Are you using an impact driver to break the bedknife screws loose? One of the standard flat bits may fit.
> 
> I could mail you the tool, but it would take a few days to get there.
Click to expand...

I have some cheap POS from harbor freight from a while back, no worries on letting me borrow the tool. I might call the course super in the morning and see if they've got one in the maintenance building I can borrow or perhaps can just being my bed bar and parts over there. 3 min drive would be quicker if they have tools to work on them.

I just did get the reel sprocket loose. Standing on a socket with the 1/2 in extension worked. Until it broke loose and my ankle bone caught the end of the transport axle. Almost barfed from the pain!

Thanks for the link to a better impact driver


----------



## Philly_Gunner

I have a GM 1600 and I'm currently maintaining at .75" as I'm not under regulation. I'm getting quite a bit of bobbing. I know .16" is the ideal HOC for this mower but I have several more leveling sessions before I could even think of going that low. Would a clip kit help limit this? I'm going to slow way down tomorrow and see if that makes a difference. Any other tips/tricks?


----------



## Oceanus

can always try double and or cross cut for appearance aspect (not a root cause fix)

from (Google) the '97 Toro "A Guide To Evaluating Reel Mower Performance And Using The TurfEvaluator™"

Bobbing (wavy):

CAUSE
• Grass collecting on rollers
• Out of round rollers
• Inconsistent turf density and texture
• Too fast ground speed


----------



## Philly_Gunner

Oceanus said:


> can always try double and or cross cut for appearance aspect (not a root cause fix)
> 
> from (Google) the '97 Toro "A Guide To Evaluating Reel Mower Performance And Using The TurfEvaluator™"
> 
> Bobbing (wavy):
> 
> CAUSE
> • Grass collecting on rollers
> • Out of round rollers
> • Inconsistent turf density and texture
> • Too fast ground speed


Thank you sir. I saw this also on the Toro site. I'm leaning towards the last 2 culprits but I think the higher HOC is a contributing factor as well. I just can't do a reset right now with the drought and heat we are currently experiencing.


----------



## FATC1TY

Philly_Gunner said:


> I have a GM 1600 and I'm currently maintaining at .75" as I'm not under regulation. I'm getting quite a bit of bobbing. I know .16" is the ideal HOC for this mower but I have several more leveling sessions before I could even think of going that low. Would a clip kit help limit this? I'm going to slow way down tomorrow and see if that makes a difference. Any other tips/tricks?


Slow it down and double cut, especially if you've got some slope and bumps. I've found once I get around .7, the turf is so dense it will float. A double and even triple cut takes care of it, as well as occasionally swapping the routes.


----------



## FATC1TY

So.. I finally got my GM1600 back together. Took it apart last evening. Struggled with getting the reel off. Finally got one side loose. Then struggled with the groomer side, tackled that this morning and managed to get it.

Installed the new reel, bearings, seals. Got it all out back together and then just stared at the bed bar and the broken bedknife.

Broke many tips wirh the impact screwdriver. Used penetrating oil. Finally bought a cutting wheel and the broken tips I cut down so they had less taper.

Sure enough. One by one, started getting them loose. The more I got out the easier they came.

Installed the high cut bedknife from Toro, per the recommendation from the rep and got the bed bar installed and cranked down some light contact. Backlapped with 120 up to 180 and it was making paper disappear edge to edge.

So excited I ran two passes and realized that while I was coming out of regulation pretty much this weekend, and hadn't cut for 3-4 days that I was scalping.

Whoops. Different bedknife.... lower cut. Instead of .5 I was nearly .3!

Went ahead and scalped and man alive does this new reel and bedknife glide. Unbelievable cut quality.

Thank you guys for all the assistance. I sure did learn a lot.


----------



## Philly_Gunner

FATC1TY said:


> Philly_Gunner said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a GM 1600 and I'm currently maintaining at .75" as I'm not under regulation. I'm getting quite a bit of bobbing. I know .16" is the ideal HOC for this mower but I have several more leveling sessions before I could even think of going that low. Would a clip kit help limit this? I'm going to slow way down tomorrow and see if that makes a difference. Any other tips/tricks?
> 
> 
> 
> Slow it down and double cut, especially if you've got some slope and bumps. I've found once I get around .7, the turf is so dense it will float. A double and even triple cut takes care of it, as well as occasionally swapping the routes.
Click to expand...

Gonna give it a go tomorrow, thank you. Triple cuts are brutal in 100 degree heat and 15k of yard.


----------



## FATC1TY

Philly_Gunner said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Philly_Gunner said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a GM 1600 and I'm currently maintaining at .75" as I'm not under regulation. I'm getting quite a bit of bobbing. I know .16" is the ideal HOC for this mower but I have several more leveling sessions before I could even think of going that low. Would a clip kit help limit this? I'm going to slow way down tomorrow and see if that makes a difference. Any other tips/tricks?
> 
> 
> 
> Slow it down and double cut, especially if you've got some slope and bumps. I've found once I get around .7, the turf is so dense it will float. A double and even triple cut takes care of it, as well as occasionally swapping the routes.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Gonna give it a go tomorrow, thank you. Triple cuts are brutal in 100 degree heat and 15k of yard.
Click to expand...

Ouch, I bet. I'm plenty versed in the heat and humidity, but I cut around half that size.

I will say- with a double or triple cut I do increase my speed as I know I'll be coming back over those areas.


----------



## Guest

FATC1TY said:


> Philly_Gunner said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> Slow it down and double cut, especially if you've got some slope and bumps. I've found once I get around .7, the turf is so dense it will float. A double and even triple cut takes care of it, as well as occasionally swapping the routes.
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna give it a go tomorrow, thank you. Triple cuts are brutal in 100 degree heat and 15k of yard.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ouch, I bet. I'm plenty versed in the heat and humidity, but I cut around half that size.
> 
> I will say- with a double or triple cut I do increase my speed as I know I'll be coming back over those areas.
Click to expand...

enjoy your new bedknife setup yep plenty hot up here in Acworth as well..mow early and often


----------



## The_iHenry

Has anyone had they're reel engagement lever slip out when using the mower? Mine keeps slipping so I'm having to re-engage at the end of every pass. Not a big deal but pretty annoying.


----------



## Greendoc

My 24 year old GM 1000 does that. I have a spring that I hook on the lever and stretch that to the HOC bracket to keep it engaged


----------



## The_iHenry

@Greendoc I thought about rigging something up like that


----------



## FATC1TY

The_iHenry said:


> @Greendoc I thought about rigging something up like that


I swear you can tighten up and adjust it. Take the cover off and take a look. I noticed some stuff when I was working on mine this past week.


----------



## FATC1TY

Any idea what would cause this belt wear?

Tightening it up a bit as the drum felt like it was lagging a bit up/side hill, but wasn't sure if this was gonna fix it.


----------



## The_iHenry

@FATC1TY I took your advice and took the cover off. 

I found these bolts to be loose and tightened them up. I found that every time I disengage the reel the bolt just loosens up again.


----------



## FATC1TY

The_iHenry said:


> @FATC1TY I took your advice and took the cover off.
> 
> I found these bolts to be loose and tightened them up. I found that every time I disengage the reel the bolt just loosens up again.


Clean up the grease and check out the threads on the bolt perhaps. Maybe a thin lock washer would help keep enough tight tension on it. Otherwise I'd assume that part/bearing housing might be worn somehow. Maybe some thread tape on the screw will assist ?


----------



## chadh

So it's looking like my rear drum bearing on the right side of my gm1000 is bad. Anyone torn down to get to that? What's the process?


----------



## Southern Lawn

Afternoon. Where does everyone get their Toro parts? I would like to buy the clip kit ( 65-9000 ), but can't find it anywhere. Called a local Toro dealer, and he claimed it wasn't a Toro #.

Thanks


----------



## FedDawg555

Southern Lawn said:


> Afternoon. Where does everyone get their Toro parts? I would like to buy the clip kit ( 65-9000 ), but can't find it anywhere. Called a local Toro dealer, and he claimed it wasn't a Toro #.
> 
> Thanks


Jerry Pate Company either Atlanta or Birmingham. Regular Toro dealers normally don't carry the commercial golf parts.


----------



## Southern Lawn

Thank you. I will check with them.


----------



## Hadendm

Good Morning!
Starting to get a bit frustrated with my GM1000. It's a '97. I've had the same problem since I purchased the mower last year and still looking for a solution. My lawn is regulated and I'm mowing 3 times per week most of the time. However, the mower struggles to cut every time.
When the reel is not engaged, the mower will about come out of my hands when moving it around the yard. As soon as I engage the reel, it's as if it turns into a manual push reel, I can hardly get it to move. When it does move, it quickly gets bogged down and I have to lift the front roller up to proceed with the cut and then do multiple passes, and double and triple cuts to get a halfway decent cut.
The motor doesn't necessarily sound like it's struggling. I changed the bed knife, reel bearings, V-belts, and got the reel sharpened at the beginning of the season. The reel drive belt seems to be fine as well. I backlap about every 2 weeks and I don't really see a difference.

Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!


----------



## cwrx82

Hadendm said:


> Good Morning!
> Starting to get a bit frustrated with my GM1000. It's a '97. I've had the same problem since I purchased the mower last year and still looking for a solution. My lawn is regulated and I'm mowing 3 times per week most of the time. However, the mower struggles to cut every time.
> When the reel is not engaged, the mower will about come out of my hands when moving it around the yard. As soon as I engage the reel, it's as if it turns into a manual push reel, I can hardly get it to move. When it does move, it quickly gets bogged down and I have to lift the front roller up to proceed with the cut and then do multiple passes, and double and triple cuts to get a halfway decent cut.
> The motor doesn't necessarily sound like it's struggling. I changed the bed knife, reel bearings, V-belts, and got the reel sharpened at the beginning of the season. The reel drive belt seems to be fine as well. I backlap about every 2 weeks and I don't really see a difference.
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!


How many blades does the reel have? 
Does the blade move easily by hand when not engaged? 
Where are you running the throttle when reel is engaged? 
Have you pulled off all covers and checked all belts?


----------



## Hadendm

cwrx82 said:


> Hadendm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good Morning!
> Starting to get a bit frustrated with my GM1000. It's a '97. I've had the same problem since I purchased the mower last year and still looking for a solution. My lawn is regulated and I'm mowing 3 times per week most of the time. However, the mower struggles to cut every time.
> When the reel is not engaged, the mower will about come out of my hands when moving it around the yard. As soon as I engage the reel, it's as if it turns into a manual push reel, I can hardly get it to move. When it does move, it quickly gets bogged down and I have to lift the front roller up to proceed with the cut and then do multiple passes, and double and triple cuts to get a halfway decent cut.
> The motor doesn't necessarily sound like it's struggling. I changed the bed knife, reel bearings, V-belts, and got the reel sharpened at the beginning of the season. The reel drive belt seems to be fine as well. I backlap about every 2 weeks and I don't really see a difference.
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> How many blades does the reel have?
> Does the blade move easily by hand when not engaged?
> Where are you running the throttle when reel is engaged?
> Have you pulled off all covers and checked all belts?
Click to expand...

It is an 11 blade reel. Reel moves easily when not engaged. Throttle stays in highest position all the time. Yes, all of the belts seem fine. 
Even if I lift the front of the mower up and let it just ride on the drum, when the reel is engaged the mower just moves slower


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

Hadendm said:


> cwrx82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hadendm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good Morning!
> Starting to get a bit frustrated with my GM1000. It's a '97. I've had the same problem since I purchased the mower last year and still looking for a solution. My lawn is regulated and I'm mowing 3 times per week most of the time. However, the mower struggles to cut every time.
> When the reel is not engaged, the mower will about come out of my hands when moving it around the yard. As soon as I engage the reel, it's as if it turns into a manual push reel, I can hardly get it to move. When it does move, it quickly gets bogged down and I have to lift the front roller up to proceed with the cut and then do multiple passes, and double and triple cuts to get a halfway decent cut.
> The motor doesn't necessarily sound like it's struggling. I changed the bed knife, reel bearings, V-belts, and got the reel sharpened at the beginning of the season. The reel drive belt seems to be fine as well. I backlap about every 2 weeks and I don't really see a difference.
> 
> Anyone have any thoughts? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> How many blades does the reel have?
> Does the blade move easily by hand when not engaged?
> Where are you running the throttle when reel is engaged?
> Have you pulled off all covers and checked all belts?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It is an 11 blade reel. Reel moves easily when not engaged. Throttle stays in highest position all the time. Yes, all of the belts seem fine.
> Even if I lift the front of the mower up and let it just ride on the drum, when the reel is engaged the mower just moves slower
Click to expand...

Id check the belts that drive the reel for tension. If the engine runs strong and it only bogs down on cutting, it has to be related to those.mechanisms.

Do you have a groomer engaging that may be adding resistance? Maybe it is seized up?


----------



## Hadendm

HoosierLawnGnome said:


> Hadendm said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cwrx82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> How many blades does the reel have?
> Does the blade move easily by hand when not engaged?
> Where are you running the throttle when reel is engaged?
> Have you pulled off all covers and checked all belts?
> 
> 
> 
> It is an 11 blade reel. Reel moves easily when not engaged. Throttle stays in highest position all the time. Yes, all of the belts seem fine.
> Even if I lift the front of the mower up and let it just ride on the drum, when the reel is engaged the mower just moves slower
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Id check the belts that drive the reel for tension. If the engine runs strong and it only bogs down on cutting, it has to be related to those.mechanisms.
> 
> Do you have a groomer engaging that may be adding resistance? Maybe it is seized up?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. I'll check the reel drive belt again. Don't have a groomer. I just feel like this thing should power through the cut especially when I'm not removing a whole lot of grass.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

Hadendm said:


> HoosierLawnGnome said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hadendm said:
> 
> 
> 
> It is an 11 blade reel. Reel moves easily when not engaged. Throttle stays in highest position all the time. Yes, all of the belts seem fine.
> Even if I lift the front of the mower up and let it just ride on the drum, when the reel is engaged the mower just moves slower
> 
> 
> 
> Id check the belts that drive the reel for tension. If the engine runs strong and it only bogs down on cutting, it has to be related to those.mechanisms.
> 
> Do you have a groomer engaging that may be adding resistance? Maybe it is seized up?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I'll check the reel drive belt again. Don't have a groomer. I just feel like this thing should power through the cut especially when I'm not removing a whole lot of grass.
Click to expand...

Maybe it's slipping somehow??

When I tried to scalp at 3/8" from 3/4", I got some bogging down too and the engine would cut out. Not sure how much you're lopping off, but 2 days of growth doesn't seem crazy at all.


----------



## Hadendm

HoosierLawnGnome said:


> Hadendm said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HoosierLawnGnome said:
> 
> 
> 
> Id check the belts that drive the reel for tension. If the engine runs strong and it only bogs down on cutting, it has to be related to those.mechanisms.
> 
> Do you have a groomer engaging that may be adding resistance? Maybe it is seized up?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback. I'll check the reel drive belt again. Don't have a groomer. I just feel like this thing should power through the cut especially when I'm not removing a whole lot of grass.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Maybe it's slipping somehow??
> 
> When I tried to scalp at 3/8" from 3/4", I got some bogging down too and the engine would cut out. Not sure how much you're lopping off, but 2 days of growth doesn't seem crazy at all.
Click to expand...

Great point! I don't think the reel drive belt is slipping because it has teeth but it very well could be the V-belt slipping. Which is why I originally replaced it. The motor is also already in the position for most tension. So if that's the problem still, I don't know how else to fix it?? The shaft could just be slipping under the belt when the reel meets the turf.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

Maybe clean the belt, pulley or gear off to make sure there isnt a lubricant creating slippage?


----------



## SpeedNess

So I just got my goodies from R&R for my GM1000 new 8 blade reel, all new reel bearings and seals, heavy cut bedknife, spark plug, air filter, bedknife tool and bedknife screws.

I have a question for those of you who have bought brand new reels in the past. Have they been sharp from the get go, reason I ask is my new reel seems to have and inconsistent grind/edge.

On some of the blades edge you can see shiny metal and on others all I see is the black paint/coating. Is this normal? Are these reels ground and then coated afterwards? I plan on backlapping after install but was shocked to not a see a clean shiny sharpened edge on a brand new reel. The reel does not feel particularly sharp at any point across the blades.

This edge shows a little bit of metal behind the coating


This edge is completely covered in the black coating and it is completely dull feeling.


----------



## jhealy748

Mine did have to be backlapped before it was mated well across the entire bedknife but it was sharp right out of the box. It did have a touch of overspray on them but only a bit. Yours does look covered it seems strange but I'm guessing a back lap will do the trick.


----------



## Greendoc

Backlap with 220 or 180. You should be alright.


----------



## FATC1TY

SpeedNess said:


> So I just got my goodies from R&R for my GM1000 new 8 blade reel, all new reel bearings and seals, heavy cut bedknife, spark plug, air filter, bedknife tool and bedknife screws.
> 
> I have a question for those of you who have bought brand new reels in the past. Have they been sharp from the get go, reason I ask is my new reel seems to have and inconsistent grind/edge.
> 
> On some of the blades edge you can see shiny metal and on others all I see is the black paint/coating. Is this normal? Are these reels ground and then coated afterwards? I plan on backlapping after install but was shocked to not a see a clean shiny sharpened edge on a brand new reel. The reel does not feel particularly sharp at any point across the blades.
> 
> This edge shows a little bit of metal behind the coating
> 
> 
> This edge is completely covered in the black coating and it is completely dull feeling.


I got my reel for my GM1600 a week ago, but from Toro and not R&R, and it was similar. Infact most of my blade was black, somewhat sharp-ish if I held it by the blades, but had a pretty consistent face across the edges.

Backlapped with 120 and then 180 and it's got an amazing edge on it, can see the shine from the backlap and I'll tell ya... that reel is insanely sharp now. I don't even want to spin it by hand without a glove on.


----------



## SpeedNess

@jhealy748 ,@Greendoc and @FATC1TY thanks all.

Good to know, I thought that was the case but wanted to ask just in case. I got everything taken apart today, cleaned and painted some rusty parts. Tomorrow will finish the install and backlap, cant wait.


----------



## SugarLand Bermuda

Hey guys, im having issues with my flex2100. Whenever i engage the reel in a normal fashion it makes it about 2 feet and dies. If i engage it really slow, it bogs down but then runs (dosn't work every time). My reel spins freely by hand and it will work perfectly fine if i raise it on the kickstand, so it seems to only die when i have weight on the roller. My first thought was i have an issue with the shift handle but it seems to be fine, nothing loose. My next thought was the traction switch but it also seems to be calibrated/gaped correctly per the manual.

Had anyone seen this before or had similar issues? Anything helps.


----------



## Southern Lawn

Afternoon. I have a Toro with an 11 blade reel. I'm not cutting my lawn very low ~ around 3/4". It was beginning to washboard in some areas so I starting looking for a clip kit for a GM1000. I called a Toro Dealer and the kit is about $5 more than a new reel. What is the call here? Clip kit or new 8 blade reel?


----------



## Guest

R&R 8 blade reel and new bedknife &#128077;


----------



## Greendoc

Southern Lawn said:


> Afternoon. I have a Toro with an 11 blade reel. I'm not cutting my lawn very low ~ around 3/4". It was beginning to washboard in some areas so I starting looking for a clip kit for a GM1000. I called a Toro Dealer and the kit is about $5 more than a new reel. What is the call here? Clip kit or new 8 blade reel?


You do both if your normal HOC is 3/4" 
That puts you closer to the clip rate vs an 8 blade reel without the Clip Kit


----------



## Southern Lawn

Greendoc said:


> Southern Lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Afternoon. I have a Toro with an 11 blade reel. I'm not cutting my lawn very low ~ around 3/4". It was beginning to washboard in some areas so I starting looking for a clip kit for a GM1000. I called a Toro Dealer and the kit is about $5 more than a new reel. What is the call here? Clip kit or new 8 blade reel?
> 
> 
> 
> You do both if your normal HOC is 3/4"
> That puts you closer to the clip rate vs an 8 blade reel without the Clip Kit
Click to expand...

Excuse my ignorance, but can you explain why I would need both?


----------



## Greendoc

An 11 blade reel with the clip kit puts you at optimum for mowing at 0.25". 8 blade reel and the clip kit puts you at optimum for mowing at 0.34". That is closer to lawn height. Ideal would be if you had the clip kit and a 5 blade reel, but Toro does not make a 5 blade reel for the GM 1000 and GM 1600


----------



## Southern Lawn

Greendoc said:


> An 11 blade reel with the clip kit puts you at optimum for mowing at 0.25". 8 blade reel and the clip kit puts you at optimum for mowing at 0.34". That is closer to lawn height. Ideal would be if you had the clip kit and a 5 blade reel, but Toro does not make a 5 blade reel for the GM 1000 and GM 1600


Thank you sir for that tidbit of info.


----------



## Kizzle65

MeanDean said:


> How many here get these lines from mowing and what can help prevent them? I don't think it's leveling alone. My front lawn has been leveled and today it still left these ridges everywhere. I had to go back over each pass with the Tru Cut just to clean things up.
> 
> Picture is my backyard for reference. I measured gauged the hoc and it was even on both sides.


What did you have for this solution?! I have adjusted and adjusted the HOC and still can't get it either. 2 weeks ago it was the left side and this week it's the right side. Driving me nuts myself.


----------



## GrassClown

The reel drive pulley keeps sliding down the drive shaft which causes the belt to slip off the other 2 pulleys and stop the reel from spinning. I've secured the woodruff down by hand tightening the set screws but it only works for about 10 minutes before it slips off again. I don't have a torque wrench that does inch pounds like the service manual says. Have any of you ran into this issue? Or should I just go buy a new torque wrench?


----------



## Di3soft

Kizzle65 said:


> What did you have for this solution?! I have adjusted and adjusted the HOC and still can't get it either. 2 weeks ago it was the left side and this week it's the right side. Driving me nuts myself.


Have you checked if you rear drum is parallel to the reel?


----------



## Di3soft

GrassClown said:


> The reel drive pulley keeps sliding down the drive shaft which causes the belt to slip off the other 2 pulleys and stop the reel from spinning. I've secured the woodruff down by hand tightening the set screws but it only works for about 10 minutes before it slips off again. I don't have a torque wrench that does inch pounds like the service manual says. Have any of you ran into this issue? Or should I just go buy a new torque wrench?


you can use a ft pound torque wrench, just convert inch pounds to foot pounds


----------



## Kicker

Di3soft said:


> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What did you have for this solution?! I have adjusted and adjusted the HOC and still can't get it either. 2 weeks ago it was the left side and this week it's the right side. Driving me nuts myself.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you checked if you rear drum is parallel to the reel?
Click to expand...

A lot of similar post like this lately. I was also having these issues and it's not anything mechanical (most likely). As the turf gets more dense (especially bermuda) and starts to become cushiony, the weight of the mower will push down on the cushiony areas and leave a scalp or line like you're seeing.

The resolution for me was to do a HOC reset by aggressive verticut/dethatching and scalping; then bumping up to my maintenance HOC.


----------



## Kizzle65

Kicker said:


> Di3soft said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What did you have for this solution?! I have adjusted and adjusted the HOC and still can't get it either. 2 weeks ago it was the left side and this week it's the right side. Driving me nuts myself.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you checked if you rear drum is parallel to the reel?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> A lot of similar post like this lately. I was also having these issues and it's not anything mechanical (most likely). As the turf gets more dense (especially bermuda) and starts to become cushiony, the weight of the mower will push down on the cushiony areas and leave a scalp or line like you're seeing.
> 
> The resolution for me was to do a HOC reset by aggressive verticut/dethatching and scalping; then bumping up to my maintenance HOC.
Click to expand...

That's actually what I am doing. I scalped and will raise it back up to see if this finally solves the issue.


----------



## Sinclair

I'll be joining the group in a couple weeks.

Getting a new 8 blade reel and high HOC kit installed.


----------



## uts

hey everyone,

I am planning to get into reel mowing and have been very impressed with how these amazing machines work. I have found them hard to come by in CT. I am only going to experiment with these this fall and then really get into it next spring when I have a few tree roots removed and level out the lawn and go for a renovation with KBG,

I am looking at a Toro GM1600 from a company that is willing to deliver it for me. This is a 2008, 9 blade (they said it has 80% life as reels and bearings were recently replaced), has transport wheels, grass catcher and light kit on it. I will be buying this without any inspection but they will service, sharpen and adjust before delivering. Attached are the pictures. Would appreciate if I can get any input and a reasonable offer. I do have a dealer near me but they sell only fairly new units like 2016ish and those are in the 4-5k range.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

80% reel, ew bearings, and recent service ready to cut is a good way to go. 9 blade good for taller KBG cuts. Ask them to set the HOC for you while they're at it. Sounds like they know what theyre doing if they are offering all the service on it, so it is probably a good machine.

I cant see pictures, but it could be worth 1600 from recent prices ive seen. You can price freight to see what thats worth, could be 3 or 4 hundred just for that.

Eta i see the pics you added now. See if they'll tune the engine, tighten the throttle if needed. Looks like a pretty clean machine anyways. Usually you want to inspect the bedknife for nicks and the reel for chips.


----------



## Logan200TCP

Toro's don't have 9 blade reels, it will be 8 blades.
I would also challenge the 80% reel life rating, looks closer to 30 or 40% to me.


----------



## Bombers

that there from cutting green llc? been looking at their 1000 also.

Agree with above. Get closer pics of the reel.


----------



## uts

Logan200TCP said:


> Toro's don't have 9 blade reels, it will be 8 blades.
> I would also challenge the 80% reel life rating, looks closer to 30 or 40% to me.


Thank you for taking a look.

Attached is the bedknife picture. Do the reels look any different in this?.


----------



## Kizzle65

Does anybody know if a 2015 GM Flex 2100 model 4040, use the same same high HOC bars like older models? I looked on R&R and didn't see any but 15 parts for that matter. I have an auction for a mower that says "reel won't engage" and super interested in taking a gamble on it. Hoping it could be an easy fix and possibly a sexy upgrade to my 2006 model.


----------



## soupy01833

That one has the groomer brush so I think it is not possible or at least tougher


----------



## Kizzle65

soupy01833 said:


> That one has the groomer brush so I think it is not possible or at least tougher


Been noticing that and hoping someone could set me straight for sure.


----------



## cwrx82

Kizzle65 said:


> Does anybody know if a 2015 GM Flex 2100 model 4040, use the same same high HOC bars like older models? I looked on R&R and didn't see any but 15 parts for that matter. I have an auction for a mower that says "reel won't engage" and super interested in taking a gamble on it. Hoping it could be an easy fix and possibly a sexy upgrade to my 2006 model.


Does it have a groomer? If so, then the high HOC arms would not be compatible. But, you can buy shims that will add height to the rear roller. It'll increase the attitude of the unit, but it's what I'm doing. R&R sells them.

Contact a Toro turf company and they can set you straight. Pro-Turf in Euless, TX has been helpful to me when I've had questions.


----------



## Kizzle65

cwrx82 said:


> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody know if a 2015 GM Flex 2100 model 4040, use the same same high HOC bars like older models? I looked on R&R and didn't see any but 15 parts for that matter. I have an auction for a mower that says "reel won't engage" and super interested in taking a gamble on it. Hoping it could be an easy fix and possibly a sexy upgrade to my 2006 model.
> 
> 
> 
> Does it have a groomer? If so, then the high HOC arms would not be compatible. But, you can buy shims that will add height to the rear roller. It'll increase the attitude of the unit, but it's what I'm doing. R&R sells them.
> 
> Contact a Toro turf company and they can set you straight. Pro-Turf in Euless, TX has been helpful to me when I've had questions.
Click to expand...

It does have the groomer. That's basically what I had to do with my older model. Take the groomer off and put the HOC bars on it. How much height of cut are we talking about? I am getting a max of .9" so far on my 2006 model. Love to Flex but not friendly without super adjustments. Don't mind doing stuff on the inside occasionally but rather not obviously lol.


----------



## cwrx82

Kizzle65 said:


> cwrx82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kizzle65 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anybody know if a 2015 GM Flex 2100 model 4040, use the same same high HOC bars like older models? I looked on R&R and didn't see any but 15 parts for that matter. I have an auction for a mower that says "reel won't engage" and super interested in taking a gamble on it. Hoping it could be an easy fix and possibly a sexy upgrade to my 2006 model.
> 
> 
> 
> Does it have a groomer? If so, then the high HOC arms would not be compatible. But, you can buy shims that will add height to the rear roller. It'll increase the attitude of the unit, but it's what I'm doing. R&R sells them.
> 
> Contact a Toro turf company and they can set you straight. Pro-Turf in Euless, TX has been helpful to me when I've had questions.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It does have the groomer. That's basically what I had to do with my older model. Take the groomer off and put the HOC bars on it. How much height of cut are we talking about? I am getting a max of .9" so far on my 2006 model. Love to Flex but not friendly without super adjustments. Don't mind doing stuff on the inside occasionally but rather not obviously lol.
Click to expand...

It'll be similar if you do just the arms. I had another Flex 2100 w/o groomer and had the high HOC arms and the shims and I was able to go above 1 inch. If you do the arms, you'll wanna get some shims, so you can have a decent attitude on the unit. Right now, I have an aggressive attitude with the groomer and shims. My HOC is 0.400" with a groomer. I bought the arms from a guy on here and don't recall what he said he paid for them from Toro.

Do you know why the reel won't spin? May be as simple as a belt, but that seems to obvious of a fix.


----------



## lawn789

I was just curious on the orientation of the fuel filter on a 2007 GM 1000. When removing the old one it popped out before I could see how it was installed. I'm assuming the plastic piece that sticks out should point up for removal?


----------



## Logan200TCP

uts said:


> Thank you for taking a look.
> 
> Attached is the bedknife picture. Do the reels look any different in this?.


That's not 80%, but it's also not worn out.
You'll have a couple good grinds before needing replacement.


----------



## Logan200TCP

Kizzle65 said:


> Does anybody know if a 2015 GM Flex 2100 model 4040, use the same same high HOC bars like older models? I looked on R&R and didn't see any but 15 parts for that matter. I have an auction for a mower that says "reel won't engage" and super interested in taking a gamble on it. Hoping it could be an easy fix and possibly a sexy upgrade to my 2006 model.


You need part # 120-9600 from Toro for the high HOC kit and will likely need to go that route as the older units couldn't use the rear shims to bring the HOC up.


----------



## SpeedNess

Curious to know who's got the oldest running/mowing Toro Greensmaster on TLF. I just used the Toro lookup and found out my GM1000 is 28 years old!!! Serial plate on mine is 04050-21802.

https://lookup3.toro.com/request/request.cfm


----------



## Stuofsci02

Does anyone with a 2010 ish Flex 21 know if there are zerk fittings that need to be greased? I am reading the operation manual and it covers all the maintenance items, but I see nothing about greasing.


----------



## hpdrifter

Hi all. Newby here and not sure if this is the place to post this but didn't feel a new thread was warranted due to no picture availability. I have pictures, but they're on my computer and not at some url.
The question is about an old....old Toro Greensmaster. I can barely make legible the Model number on it. 04116xxxxx
https://www.mytractorforum.com/threads/1974-toro-greensmaster.198056/#lg=thread-198056&slide=0
Edit: using SpeedNess link above I found out it is a Series 21.
It has a main gear box that the motor(engine) sit on with 2 large traction wheels/rollers on either side.
Has a pivoting 11 blade reel which is driven via a drive shaft out of gear box into chain housing which then drives reel.
Has a front fiberglass grass catcher, or what's left of it.I'
I took it all apart and was gonna put new reel bearings on it and new clutch parts.
The clutch takes 3 fiber type discs and 3 steel pressure plates with a 1" square drive input shaft.
I have searched the Toro website for parts but I can't even find it listed.

Anybody ever seen or heard of this beast?
Anybody know about obsolete parts?


----------



## Logan200TCP

Yes, these resembled the GR105 and GR500.
If you check through Toro Master parts viewer, I was able to find the parts breakdown.
https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?xCaller=Toro

I am going to suggest that most parts will be obsolete.
If you want to send me a PM, I can check as I work for a Toro distributor.


----------



## hpdrifter

I found that years ago(like 3 o4 computers have come and gone)but was unable to get courage to order/find parts.

I couldn't locate it this go round. Thanks.

However, reading a weekends worth of old posts, it seems as though this model might be best to forget.
If the discs are not too awful costly and available, it might be a kick to get it functional again.
It was functional 20 years ago and I've had it in storage for quite a while, but the engine was leaking oil out of the shaft and ruined the discs thru continued use.


----------



## Di3soft

For anyone here who has done some serious work on their machines, Im doing a lot of work on mine this week and im lost at how to get the bedbar bushing out to replace it.

This is the bushing, tried beating it out not luck, tried using bolt and nut and socket with no luck.


It's number 100 in this diagram


----------



## TheSwede

Stuofsci02 said:


> Does anyone with a 2010 ish Flex 21 know if there are zerk fittings that need to be greased? I am reading the operation manual and it covers all the maintenance items, but I see nothing about greasing.


My 2007 is all sealed grease bearings so no zerk fittings, and that should most likely be the case for a 2010+ unit too...


----------



## Kizzle65

Stuofsci02 said:


> Does anyone with a 2010 ish Flex 21 know if there are zerk fittings that need to be greased? I am reading the operation manual and it covers all the maintenance items, but I see nothing about greasing.


I have a 2006 model and no such fittings. I looked like crazy too cause all the 1000 & 1600 guys were talking about it.


----------



## Stuofsci02

@TheSwede @Kizzle65 .... Thanks guys.. I also was looking at the gm1000 guys talk about greasing and was wondering what I was missing. Thanks for confirming I'm not crazy...


----------



## Bombers

Thinking about picking this up. What do you guys think at first look? Comes with basket but no transport wheels.

Awaiting pics of reel and bedknife but this looks like an 8 or 11 blade? Looks like there's still decent life on them (zoom in first pic)?

Seller says it's 14 but looking on R&R the spacing is too far apart. Might've mixed with another unit he's selling.

Thanks!

Edit: added reel pic


----------



## cwrx82

Bombers said:


> Thinking about picking this up. What do you guys think at first look? $1250 asking. Comes with basket but no transport wheels.
> 
> Awaiting pics of reel and bedknife but this looks like an 8 or 11 blade? Looks like there's still decent life on them (zoom in first pic)?
> 
> Seller says it's 14 but looking on R&R the spacing is too far apart. Might've mixed with another unit he's selling.
> 
> https://www.rrproducts.com/QuickRef...s?attMake=[Toro]&attModel=[Greensmaster+1000]
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/BFSlclq
> 
> 
> Edit: added reel pic


That's an 8-blade reel. That mower is either a 2009 or 2010 year model, based on the motor. I'd try to get him down lower for sure on the price. $800-$900 would be my range on that mower.


----------



## Di3soft

that not an 8 blade as I just put on an 8 blade reel, that looks like the 11 blade reel


----------



## davegravy

Looking at buying a flex 21 model 04022 serial # 270000950. The Toro site doesn't list a high HOC kit and various other accessories after serial # 260003000.

Is this likely in error? Toro website doesn't seem to want to let me email the company to verify.


----------



## TheSwede

davegravy said:


> Looking at buying a flex 21 model 04022 serial # 270000950. The Toro site doesn't list a high HOC kit and various other accessories after serial # 260003000.
> 
> Is this likely in error? Toro website doesn't seem to want to let me email the company to verify.


For some reason the Flex 21's cutting unit is listed as a model of its own ("04202"). High HOC kit is listed under "accessories":
https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=31298


----------



## TheSwede

TheSwede said:


> davegravy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at buying a flex 21 model 04022 serial # 270000950. The Toro site doesn't list a high HOC kit and various other accessories after serial # 260003000.
> 
> Is this likely in error? Toro website doesn't seem to want to let me email the company to verify.
> 
> 
> 
> For some reason the Flex 21's cutting unit is listed as a model of its own ("04202"). High HOC kit is listed under "accessories":
> https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=31298
Click to expand...

edit: be aware that since the the cutting unit is detachable the unit mounted on the mower you're looking at buying *may* not be made the same year as the main unit (the cutting unit has its own serial number) because they sometimes swap cutting units between mowers either intentionally or by mistake (when doing maintenance on multiple mowers parts from one mower end up on another and vice versa).


----------



## davegravy

TheSwede said:


> davegravy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at buying a flex 21 model 04022 serial # 270000950. The Toro site doesn't list a high HOC kit and various other accessories after serial # 260003000.
> 
> Is this likely in error? Toro website doesn't seem to want to let me email the company to verify.
> 
> 
> 
> For some reason the Flex 21's cutting unit is listed as a model of its own ("04202"). High HOC kit is listed under "accessories":
> https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=31298
Click to expand...

Interesting, is 04202 the model # of the cutting unit for the 04022 mower?

Your link suggests the high hoc kit is part # 120-9600

Whereas this brochure at the bottom says part # 106-4699

http://www.toro.lt/golf/mower/green/walk/flex21_micro/specs.html

Very confusing...


----------



## davegravy

TheSwede said:


> TheSwede said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> davegravy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at buying a flex 21 model 04022 serial # 270000950. The Toro site doesn't list a high HOC kit and various other accessories after serial # 260003000.
> 
> Is this likely in error? Toro website doesn't seem to want to let me email the company to verify.
> 
> 
> 
> For some reason the Flex 21's cutting unit is listed as a model of its own ("04202"). High HOC kit is listed under "accessories":
> https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=31298
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> edit: be aware that since the the cutting unit is detachable the unit mounted on the mower you're looking at buying *may* not be made the same year as the main unit (the cutting unit has its own serial number) because they sometimes swap cutting units between mowers either intentionally or by mistake (when doing maintenance on multiple mowers parts from one mower end up on another and vice versa).
Click to expand...

Ahh ok so I need to request the model # of the actual cutting unit.


----------



## Stuofsci02

davegravy said:


> TheSwede said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> davegravy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at buying a flex 21 model 04022 serial # 270000950. The Toro site doesn't list a high HOC kit and various other accessories after serial # 260003000.
> 
> Is this likely in error? Toro website doesn't seem to want to let me email the company to verify.
> 
> 
> 
> For some reason the Flex 21's cutting unit is listed as a model of its own ("04202"). High HOC kit is listed under "accessories":
> https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=31298
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Interesting, is 04202 the model # of the cutting unit for the 04022 mower?
> 
> Your link suggests the high hoc kit is part # 120-9600
> 
> Whereas this brochure at the bottom says part # 106-4699
> 
> http://www.toro.lt/golf/mower/green/walk/flex21_micro/specs.html
> 
> Very confusing...
Click to expand...

Here you go bud. This is the one on my Flex 21 which is a 2010 and looks identical to the one your lookin at.


----------



## davegravy

Stuofsci02 said:


> davegravy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TheSwede said:
> 
> 
> 
> For some reason the Flex 21's cutting unit is listed as a model of its own ("04202"). High HOC kit is listed under "accessories":
> https://www.toro.com/en/parts/partdetails/?id=31298
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting, is 04202 the model # of the cutting unit for the 04022 mower?
> 
> Your link suggests the high hoc kit is part # 120-9600
> 
> Whereas this brochure at the bottom says part # 106-4699
> 
> http://www.toro.lt/golf/mower/green/walk/flex21_micro/specs.html
> 
> Very confusing...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Here you go bud. This is the one on my Flex 21 which is a 2010 and looks identical to the one your lookin at.
Click to expand...

You have the newer cutting unit then, looks like Toro changed it around 2008/2009. The unit I'm looking at is 2007 and may have the newer one but probably the older (they look almost identical apparently). I'll just have to wait and see once I have my hands on it.


----------



## Stuofsci02

davegravy said:


> Stuofsci02 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> davegravy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting, is 04202 the model # of the cutting unit for the 04022 mower?
> 
> Your link suggests the high hoc kit is part # 120-9600
> 
> Whereas this brochure at the bottom says part # 106-4699
> 
> http://www.toro.lt/golf/mower/green/walk/flex21_micro/specs.html
> 
> Very confusing...
> 
> 
> 
> Here you go bud. This is the one on my Flex 21 which is a 2010 and looks identical to the one your lookin at.
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You have the newer cutting unit then, looks like Toro changed it around 2008/2009. The unit I'm looking at is 2007 and may have the newer one but probably the older (they look almost identical apparently). I'll just have to wait and see once I have my hands on it.
Click to expand...

It should still work according to the note in the bottom right...


----------



## davegravy

Stuofsci02 said:


> It should still work according to the note in the bottom right...


Good catch!


----------



## marcjw

I was looking into adjusting my idle on a GM1000 because it's been dying on me when engaging drive when throttle is low. From looking at the manual there appears to be a wire missing that is apart of the low idle adjustment. Would anyone happen to know a part number to the wire? Is this something that would have been removed for any reason or does anyone else have this missing on their mowers? I need idle bumped up a tad to keep it from dying a low drive speed.


----------



## davegravy

Doing some financial planning as I look at buying a Flex21

Can anyone give me a sense of how frequently I can expect to need to grind the reel/bed knife and also what is the typical cost for that service? Also how long should a new reel and bed knife last approximately before needing replacement? My lawn is 5k, and I'm up north so slightly reduced mowing season.

Any other reasonably predictable recurring costs besides gas/oil that are significant, please feel free to add in as well!


----------



## Stuofsci02

davegravy said:


> Doing some financial planning as I look at buying a Flex21
> 
> Can anyone give me a sense of how frequently I can expect to need to grind the reel/bed knife and also what is the typical cost for that service? Also how long should a new reel and bed knife last approximately before needing replacement? My lawn is 5k, and I'm up north so slightly reduced mowing season.
> 
> Any other reasonably predictable recurring costs besides gas/oil that are significant, please feel free to add in as well!


I think you will get several seasons at least out of a reel and bedknife grind and you might never need to replace the reel.

Turfcare in Newmarket is likely where you could get it serviced and parts. Might be good to give them a call.

Here is their standard service price list:

https://www.turfcare.ca/documents/EN-2018-Winter-Service-Specials.pdf


----------



## Logan200TCP

davegravy said:


> Looking at buying a flex 21 model 04022 serial # 270000950. The Toro site doesn't list a high HOC kit and various other accessories after serial # 260003000.
> 
> Is this likely in error? Toro website doesn't seem to want to let me email the company to verify.


The high HOC wasn't offered until later models of the Flex 21, 2009 or 2010 if memory serves me correctly.

I just went through this trying to equip a customer's unit and we had to swap to a newer cutting unit for the kit to function correctly.
I see you are in Ontario Canada, send me a PM and I can help work through it with you as I work for the Toro distributor.

-Logan


----------



## Logan200TCP

Stuofsci02 said:


> davegravy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Doing some financial planning as I look at buying a Flex21
> 
> Can anyone give me a sense of how frequently I can expect to need to grind the reel/bed knife and also what is the typical cost for that service? Also how long should a new reel and bed knife last approximately before needing replacement? My lawn is 5k, and I'm up north so slightly reduced mowing season.
> 
> Any other reasonably predictable recurring costs besides gas/oil that are significant, please feel free to add in as well!
> 
> 
> 
> I think you will get several seasons at least out of a reel and bedknife grind and you might never need to replace the reel.
> 
> Turfcare in Newmarket is likely where you could get it serviced and parts. Might be good to give them a call.
> 
> Here is their standard service price list:
> 
> https://www.turfcare.ca/documents/EN-2018-Winter-Service-Specials.pdf
Click to expand...

Yes, that's us.
Price list is a little old, but reach out to me via PM and I (we) can help you.

-Logan


----------



## Stuofsci02

Logan200TCP said:


> Stuofsci02 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> davegravy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Doing some financial planning as I look at buying a Flex21
> 
> Can anyone give me a sense of how frequently I can expect to need to grind the reel/bed knife and also what is the typical cost for that service? Also how long should a new reel and bed knife last approximately before needing replacement? My lawn is 5k, and I'm up north so slightly reduced mowing season.
> 
> Any other reasonably predictable recurring costs besides gas/oil that are significant, please feel free to add in as well!
> 
> 
> 
> I think you will get several seasons at least out of a reel and bedknife grind and you might never need to replace the reel.
> 
> Turfcare in Newmarket is likely where you could get it serviced and parts. Might be good to give them a call.
> 
> Here is their standard service price list:
> 
> https://www.turfcare.ca/documents/EN-2018-Winter-Service-Specials.pdf
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, that's us.
> Price list is a little old, but reach out to me via PM and I (we) can help you.
> 
> -Logan
Click to expand...

Logan,

My Flex21 has a Turfcare band with a number on it. Could this be used to reference back to the work you guys have done on this machine. Can I reach out to you to price and schedule service later this fall, or should I be calling into your main number.

Thanks

Stu


----------



## Logan200TCP

Stuofsci02 said:


> Logan200TCP said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuofsci02 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think you will get several seasons at least out of a reel and bedknife grind and you might never need to replace the reel.
> 
> Turfcare in Newmarket is likely where you could get it serviced and parts. Might be good to give them a call.
> 
> Here is their standard service price list:
> 
> https://www.turfcare.ca/documents/EN-2018-Winter-Service-Specials.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's us.
> Price list is a little old, but reach out to me via PM and I (we) can help you.
> 
> -Logan
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Logan,
> 
> My Flex21 has a Turfcare band with a number on it. Could this be used to reference back to the work you guys have done on this machine. Can I reach out to you to price and schedule service later this fall, or should I be calling into your main number.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Stu
Click to expand...

Yes, send me a PM or email at [email protected]

-Logan


----------



## Stuofsci02

Logan200TCP said:


> Stuofsci02 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Logan200TCP said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's us.
> Price list is a little old, but reach out to me via PM and I (we) can help you.
> 
> -Logan
> 
> 
> 
> Logan,
> 
> My Flex21 has a Turfcare band with a number on it. Could this be used to reference back to the work you guys have done on this machine. Can I reach out to you to price and schedule service later this fall, or should I be calling into your main number.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Stu
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, send me a PM or email at [email protected]
> 
> -Logan
Click to expand...

Thanks. I will for sure..


----------



## davegravy

Hopefully buying this flex 21 and I have a few questions about getting it into my compact SUV given my back issues and inability to lift heavy things right now... I gather the Flex21 is like 270lbs which is significant.

I was planning to buy a couple pieces of 2x8 lumber and set them up as ramps, spaced apart the same as the transport wheels.

Are the transport wheels driven? Ie if I'm unable to push the thing up the ramp because it's too steep can I rely on the traction power?

When unloading if it's too steep and I don't want the thing rolling uncontrolled at me down the ramp can I do something like pulse the parking brake?

What's the clearance like under the transport wheels? My cx-5 has a small 2 or 3" high lip I'll have to go over at the entrance to the trunk and I don't want to damage it or the flex. If I have to lift it over that short distance it may be ok.


----------



## Stuofsci02

davegravy said:


> Hopefully buying this flex 21 and I have a few questions about getting it into my compact SUV given my back issues and inability to lift heavy things right now... I gather the Flex21 is like 270lbs which is significant.
> 
> I was planning to buy a couple pieces of 2x8 lumber and set them up as ramps, spaced apart the same as the transport wheels.
> 
> Are the transport wheels driven? Ie if I'm unable to push the thing up the ramp because it's too steep can I rely on the traction power?
> 
> When unloading if it's too steep and I don't want the thing rolling uncontrolled at me down the ramp can I do something like pulse the parking brake?
> 
> What's the clearance like under the transport wheels? My cx-5 has a small 2 or 3" high lip I'll have to go over at the entrance to the trunk and I don't want to damage it or the flex. If I have to lift it over that short distance it may be ok.


Yes the transport wheels are driven and when you use them you have to walk fast to keep up with the machine since the OD of the wheels is larger than the drive drum.

Don't do it with 2x8s. That's an accident waiting to happen. The machine is ~250lbs. You need to get loading ramps. I'd be happy to lend you mine, as you could stop by on the way and grab them, but if you drop them off on the way back you'd have no way to get it out when you get home. You could always bring them back to my office in Whitby later.

The fact is that you need loading ramps with this machine if you plan to take it anywhere. Plan to get a set. Here is what I have. I use them for my tractor too. They often come on sale... They make a nice gradual slope and I found loading and unloading to be easy with them. You would be able to clear your lip no problem..

https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/steel-rung-folding-arched-loading-ramp-pair-84-in-0407820p.html#srp


----------



## Stuofsci02

BTW.. I'll measure my machine so you know it will fit..


----------



## Stuofsci02

@davegravy

Standing up w/ transport wheels on
35"w by 45"t by 40"l

Tipped back w/ transport wheels on
35"w by 24"t by 52"l


----------



## davegravy

Stuofsci02 said:


> @davegravy
> 
> Standing up w/ transport wheels on
> 35"w by 45"t by 40"l
> 
> Tipped back w/ transport wheels on
> 35"w by 24"t by 52"l


Amazing, thanks. And yeah I felt uneasy about the 2x8s so thanks for the ramp suggestion. They look like a handy thing to have in general.


----------



## nnnnnate

I just bought a gm1000 and picked it up this morning. I'm wondering if you guys generally keep spare parts around for it or anything like that. I'm guess the belts are good to have on hand. Do they generally give enough notice that with periodic checks I should be able to identify any issues or do they tend to just snap?

It's all set up and ready to go. I was given some lapping compound so if and when I need to backlap I should be good on that front. He showed me that process... I'm just excited to have it and to start reeling.


----------



## Redtwin

I'm in need of a grass catcher for my GM1000 but can't stomach the $200 they cost after shipping. Does anyone know of one for sale in the Southeast? Anyone ever heard of someone building a DIY version?


----------



## Bombers

is it "off" if it leans that much forward? can't tell if it's parallel to the frame...

https://imgur.com/a/6tN0xsP


----------



## htnguyen7

It looks like you have it on the kick stand.


----------



## Bombers

Thanks! Trying to make a purchase on my first reel. Glad it was just my untrained eyes. :mrgreen:

Also, would someone be kind enough to measure the clevis pin (Diameter and working length) that holds the handle to the body frame for a GM 1000? Part lookup didn't provide measurements. I need to buy a replacement pin before the mower I'm buying arrives. Thank you.


----------



## Romangorilla

Quick question for you GM 1000 experts out there.
I was In the process of greasing some zerks myself for the first time. When I got to the zerk pictured below circled in green, grease started to shoot out of the "bolt" circled in orange.
What happened? Did I completely screw this up?
Is that suppose to happen?

Thanks in advance fellas.


----------



## FedDawg555

Romangorilla said:


> Quick question for you GM 1000 experts out there.
> I was In the process of greasing some zerks myself for the first time. When I got to the zerk pictured below circled in green, grease started to shoot out of the "bolt" circled in orange.
> What happened? Did I completely screw this up?
> Is that suppose to happen?
> 
> Thanks in advance fellas.


Not to worry that's the grease relief point it will purge old grease as you push new grease in.


----------



## Benwag

Trying to locate some transport wheels for my flex 2100 since I've got some new fescue I have to drive across to put my mower into the shed and down want to keep rolling it down if I don't have to. Wondering if I can get wheels from GM 1000/1600 or others to fit the 2013 flex 2100 or if they are different


----------



## Jgourley124

Most likely a long shot, but if anyone has a toro clip kit item number 65-9000 For sale I'm looking to buy. I don't have a toro shop near me that sells any reel mower products. Thanks


----------



## FATC1TY

Jgourley124 said:


> Most likely a long shot, but if anyone has a toro clip kit item number 65-9000 For sale I'm looking to buy. I don't have a toro shop near me that sells any reel mower products. Thanks


Call Jerry Pate turf. Look them up online, got several locations in the south east but they ship anywhere. Their customer service can help with parts and get you squared away with a cash account.


----------



## Di3soft

Anyone have any insight on R&R minuteman front roller? Lawn is KBG/PRG to be kept at 20-22mm. Read on Pete's journal about bigger roller with wider groves to get down between the grass.


----------



## Jbird95

I have a Flex 2100 in line of sight w/ Subaru engine in great condition. However- i'm concerned this is almost a specialty unit for greens and not suitable for a home owner w/ its .3" HOC? Am I off base? Also, did I read correctly the reel is removable?


----------



## davegravy

Jbird95 said:


> I have a Flex 2100 in line of sight w/ Subaru engine in great condition. However- i'm concerned this is almost a specialty unit for greens and not suitable for a home owner w/ its .3" HOC? Am I off base? Also, did I read correctly the reel is removable?


Does it have a high HOC kit available for it? The Flex 21 I was looking at did and then I think could do 1" HOC or at least 3/4"


----------



## Jbird95

@davegravy 
Thanks gravy- I need to check if it does. Assuming no, how much $$?


----------



## davegravy

Jbird95 said:


> @davegravy
> Thanks gravy- I need to check if it does. Assuming no, how much $$?


I think it was around $150 CAD, could be quite a bit less in USD. In any case, not much next to the cost of the mower.


----------



## Jbird95

Reviewing this thread and see 3yrs ago @Ware had a post regarding changing belts. After just changing the belts on my zero turn I thought I would offer a maintenance tip: cut about 3' of weed eater string and use it to assist getting belts around pulleys. I used this method on my Gravley recently- saved my knuckles...


----------



## TC2

I've lost drive power on the left (from rear) roller on my 1600 and I'm wondering what the likely culprit is. It's a 2006 model and I'm thinking maybe it's the bearings, either on the drive shaft or the roller itself, or maybe a combo. Is there anything else I should be considering before I go ahead and replace them?


----------



## Biggylawns

TC2 said:


> I've lost drive power on the left (from rear) roller on my 1600 and I'm wondering what the likely culprit is. It's a 2006 model and I'm thinking maybe it's the bearings, either on the drive shaft or the roller itself, or maybe a combo. Is there anything else I should be considering before I go ahead and replace them?


Maybe a dumb q, but did you remove that cover and check to ensure the belt is fine?


----------



## TC2

Biggylawns said:


> Maybe a dumb q, but did you remove that cover and check to ensure the belt is fine?


Yes. I cleaned out the teeth on the drive cog which had some mashed up grass in there. That helped a little.


----------



## a_chan

Might be a silly question, but is there any real downside to driving the mower over pavement (garage to lawn via driveway) without the transport wheels? I've got about 50ft between the garage and front lawn. I figure noise would be the issue but it probably won't be a problem since I use earplugs regularly.


----------



## cleohioturf

Need some help on bed knife adjustment parts for my old (~'95) GM1000.

My adjuster appears to be completely different than any schematic I see. Can someone tell me which parts (spring, washer, and screw post I need? I am on the R&R site under 0452 series.

Pic of adjuster here


----------



## Oceanus

a_chan said:


> Might be a silly question, but is there any real downside to driving the mower over pavement (garage to lawn via driveway) without the transport wheels? I've got about 50ft between the garage and front lawn. I figure noise would be the issue but it probably won't be a problem since I use earplugs regularly.


I do it ... minor issues are:
the drum and front roller will get surface damage (marred/pitted)
possible 'jarring' transition when mower rolls from turf to hard surface (impact can easily bend reel/bed knife)


----------



## Bombers

cleohioturf said:


> Need some help on bed knife adjustment parts for my old (~'95) GM1000.
> 
> My adjuster appears to be completely different than any schematic I see. Can someone tell me which parts (spring, washer, and screw post I need? I am on the R&R site under 0452 series.
> 
> Pic of adjuster here


Looks like yours is the bottom assembly on the schematic. That one has the washer after the spring.


----------



## a_chan

Oceanus said:


> a_chan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Might be a silly question, but is there any real downside to driving the mower over pavement (garage to lawn via driveway) without the transport wheels? I've got about 50ft between the garage and front lawn. I figure noise would be the issue but it probably won't be a problem since I use earplugs regularly.
> 
> 
> 
> I do it ... minor issues are:
> the drum and front roller will get surface damage (marred/pitted)
> possible 'jarring' transition when mower rolls from turf to hard surface (impact can easily bend reel/bed knife)
Click to expand...

That's what I figured as well. Roller smoothness probably doesn't matter as much until you get to the sub-greens level sort of heights anyways. Most likely just going to find the most level lawn-to-cement spot to transition the mower over. Probably won't be doing any turns over the cement given the grading.


----------



## FATC1TY

a_chan said:


> Might be a silly question, but is there any real downside to driving the mower over pavement (garage to lawn via driveway) without the transport wheels? I've got about 50ft between the garage and front lawn. I figure noise would be the issue but it probably won't be a problem since I use earplugs regularly.


Nah. Keep the reel off moving, make subtle transitions. All good.


----------



## kay7711226

Anyone know what year Flex21 Model#04021-210001037 would be? From the service bulletin link below I'm guessing 2003 +- 1-2yrs?
https://www.toro.com/getpub/25568


----------



## Bombers

2001. 2 denotes 2000s. 2nd digit denotes subsequent years.
3 in the first digit is 2010 and on.


----------



## kay7711226

@Bombers appreciated


----------



## cutigers08

Can anyone tell me how the on/off switch for the FE120 mounts into the side engine cover? I am sure its simple but im missing something


----------



## Bombers

cutigers08 said:


> Can anyone tell me how the on/off switch for the FE120 mounts into the side engine cover? I am sure its simple but im missing something


Looks to be press fit into the ID. Pry it out with flathead or plastic trim removal tool.


----------



## cutigers08

Bombers said:


> cutigers08 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone tell me how the on/off switch for the FE120 mounts into the side engine cover? I am sure its simple but im missing something
> 
> 
> 
> Looks to be press fit into the ID. Pry it out with flathead or plastic trim removal tool.
Click to expand...

It is currently missing. Looks like the one I bought was incorrect. Picking up the correct one from STI this afternoon.


----------



## r1967a

Looking at getting a GM1000, coming from a Mclane. My biggest question is, how does the reel/drum engagement lever work to "feather" it and the throttle to move slowly around stuff like stones, flower beds, mail boxes etc. I understand that even with the transport axles removed I won't get right up on the obstacles. With the McClane there really is not feathering, but you can disengage the drive wheels and push it. I know that's not a thing with greens mowers. I lean towards the Toro vs the JD because of this, and the appearance on all these YouTube videos that you can manage it like this. Appreciate any insight!


----------



## cutigers08

r1967a said:


> Looking at getting a GM1000, coming from a Mclane. My biggest question is, how does the reel/drum engagement lever work to "feather" it and the throttle to move slowly around stuff like stones, flower beds, mail boxes etc. I understand that even with the transport axles removed I won't get right up on the obstacles. With the McClane there really is not feathering, but you can disengage the drive wheels and push it. I know that's not a thing with greens mowers. I lean towards the Toro vs the JD because of this, and the appearance on all these YouTube videos that you can manage it like this. Appreciate any insight!


Its not bad, just takes some learning. I have gotten decent and throttling down and then feathering the clutch in tight corners. No way you can get as close in some areas as the Mclane but that's what my landscape blade is for.


----------



## a_chan

I'm trying to grease all the zerks on a GM1000 and want to know how you grease the left reel one (or if this is supposed to be the correct zerk). I have a needle nozzle but it's a little difficult to try and get it to fill at an angle. Are you supposed to take off the grass deflector to grease this? The right zerk is on the underside so I'm also wondering if the left one is supposed to be as well since it's easier to grease from that point.


----------



## Di3soft

@a_chan it looks like at some point the bearings or something was replaced and the wrong zerg fittings were put on, both of mine are on top of the bearing housing at a 90 degree towards the front so I they are easy greasable.


----------



## Bombers

Shouldn't be on the bottom. Dissamble the cover and rotate the housing 180 to get it facing upwards.


----------



## a_chan

@Bombers is it possible to change out the zerks to 90 degree ones while rotating the housing? I might as well change to an 8 blade reel if I have to take everything apart to get the zerks in order.


----------



## FATC1TY

a_chan said:


> @Bombers is it possible to change out the zerks to 90 degree ones while rotating the housing? I might as well change to an 8 blade reel if I have to take everything apart to get the zerks in order.


You'll need to disassemble and yeah, I mean if you are up to it and want a new 8 blade then it's the best time, but to rotate that bearing housing you won't need to pull the reel. Someone installed them wrong, as others said, so could suspect the workmanship if you've noticed issues.

To add to it; if going to replace the reel, get new bearings and seals for those housings. Might as well update it all at once while it's apart. Not a crazy enjoyable job, but not bad if you have tools and the ability.


----------



## a_chan

FATC1TY said:


> a_chan said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Bombers is it possible to change out the zerks to 90 degree ones while rotating the housing? I might as well change to an 8 blade reel if I have to take everything apart to get the zerks in order.
> 
> 
> 
> You'll need to disassemble and yeah, I mean if you are up to it and want a new 8 blade then it's the best time, but to rotate that bearing housing you won't need to pull the reel. Someone installed them wrong, as others said, so could suspect the workmanship if you've noticed issues.
> 
> To add to it; if going to replace the reel, get new bearings and seals for those housings. Might as well update it all at once while it's apart. Not a crazy enjoyable job, but not bad if you have tools and the ability.
Click to expand...

I was planning on trying to stretch the 11 blade currently on it for a season to not overspend but it looks like I'm going to need to commit to an 8 blade in this off season. I'm assuming parts that would need to be replaced are the seals (22), bearings (99), outer seals (23), wave washer (64), retaining ring (53). Also assuming I can just replace the zerks (97) without any issue. I saw @Brodgers88 's post regarding the replacement and it doesn't look too bad to do.


----------



## Di3soft

@a_chan i just did this about a month ago, yep just get all the parts and go to town it's not too bad. With the 8 blade rnr reel you'll want to start with the low cut bedknife and a little while later you can change. Other bedknives are too thick for the brand new reel


----------



## Bombers

On the right side (sitting in front of the mower) you can take the small red cover off and the flange shaped housing will rotate freely without further disassembly. You can go ahead and change the zerk here since the housing is not a consumable. Haven't done left side yet but more steps since the reel gear is located there but you can go another route by taking the deflector off (4 bolts) and that zerk should be easily accessible with the right tools. Also, I'd deal with it for a season before roughing up a brand new reel since I believe this is your first year with your reel?


----------



## a_chan

@Bombers First season with the GM1000 at least. I just picked it up last month and haven't gotten to mow with it yet. I'd be fine replacing just the zerks (or picking up a 90 degree coupler fitting) as the reel doesn't really have any play and spins freely.


----------



## FATC1TY

Im pretty sure you might be able to halfway loosen and disassemble it enough to rotate the housings and the zerks. If you don't need a new reel, I honestly wouldn't start tearing it down.


----------



## ZachUA

On a Flex 21, the second roller that is between the reel and the drum - how easy should it spin? Mine feels like it has drag to it. Wondering if I need to replace the bearings or just replace the whole roller.


----------



## Bombers

Can anyone with calipers measure the OD of the frame support bar right in front of the reel (GM1000 OR 1600)? Mine seems to be fine without it but I have the resources to make one so why not.


----------



## RangersFC

I've got a 2015 Toro GM 1600. Anyone know what the icon on the left hand side of the hours meter screen means? When I was cutting the grass the other day, it started blinking, but the owners manual doesn't say what it indicates. Thanks.


----------



## a_chan

RangersFC said:


> I've got a 2015 Toro GM 1600. Anyone know what the icon on the left hand side of the hours meter screen means? When I was cutting the grass the other day, it started blinking, but the owners manual doesn't say what it indicates. Thanks.


Blinking means actively counting the cycles for the hours.


----------



## FATC1TY

RangersFC said:


> I've got a 2015 Toro GM 1600. Anyone know what the icon on the left hand side of the hours meter screen means? When I was cutting the grass the other day, it started blinking, but the owners manual doesn't say what it indicates. Thanks.


It's an hour glass to denote that it's an hour meter.


----------



## RangersFC

a_chan said:


> RangersFC said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've got a 2015 Toro GM 1600. Anyone know what the icon on the left hand side of the hours meter screen means? When I was cutting the grass the other day, it started blinking, but the owners manual doesn't say what it indicates. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Blinking means actively counting the cycles for the hours.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I noticed the blinking for the first time, and thought it was a warning of some kind. Mind at ease now


----------



## a_chan

Looking for some bedknife/reel related advice here. I've been trying to backlap for about an hour and only got it cutting paper the first 5" from the pulley. I'm assuming I might need to replace the bedknife to fix the problem, but does the reel itself have a relief grind?


----------



## cwrx82

a_chan said:


> Looking for some bedknife/reel related advice here. I've been trying to backlap for about an hour and only got it cutting paper the first 5" from the pulley. I'm assuming I might need to replace the bedknife to fix the problem, but does the reel itself have a relief grind?


Definitely need a new bedknife. If you notice at the ends of the knife, the amount of material left stands higher than where the reel was contacting it, so it's been worn down quite a bit.

As for the reel, looks like there was only a spin grind done.


----------



## a_chan

cwrx82 said:


> a_chan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking for some bedknife/reel related advice here. I've been trying to backlap for about an hour and only got it cutting paper the first 5" from the pulley. I'm assuming I might need to replace the bedknife to fix the problem, but does the reel itself have a relief grind?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely need a new bedknife. If you notice at the ends of the knife, the amount of material left stands higher than where the reel was contacting it, so it's been worn down quite a bit.
> 
> As for the reel, looks like there was only a spin grind done.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Any thoughts on life left on the reel? I asked prior in the thread about trying to fix the zerks as they are both installed incorrectly but figure if the reel is on it's way out I'd rather just do the replacement in a month or two for an 8 blade. Haven't looked in to who can grind and for how much around here in SoCal yet (besides the logistics since I don't own a truck).


----------



## Greendoc

Your reel has been spin ground to the end of its life. Your bedknife is also super worn as well. Time for a new reel, and a bedknife appropriate for the height of cut you will be using the mower at.


----------



## BCliff

Greendoc said:


> Your reel has been spin ground to the end of its life. Your bedknife is also super worn as well. Time for a new reel, and a bedknife appropriate for the height of cut you will be using the mower at.


Curious how you can tell it's at the end of its life?

I have a reel (definitely at the end of its life) and the cutting blade goes almost to the vertical supports, looks like still a lot of room for the grass to go up here and get cut. New to reel mowers so really just curious.


----------



## TC2

BCliff said:


> Curious how you can tell it's at the end of its life?


The thickness of the blade. New reels are much narrower at the tips. You can also measure the diameter. It should be a minimum of 4.5".


----------



## Bombers

a_chan said:


> Looking for some bedknife/reel related advice here. I've been trying to backlap for about an hour and only got it cutting paper the first 5" from the pulley. I'm assuming I might need to replace the bedknife to fix the problem, but does the reel itself have a relief grind?


my reel looks similar and i have probably 50% of life left. It's measured at around 4.70-4.80. I'm pretty sure you have some life left in that.


----------



## Oceanus

Reel isn't dead until the shop it unwilling to grind, and they'll be happy to sell you a new one ...

https://youtu.be/Nr_Qk-zR5lg


----------



## FATC1TY

That bedknife is shot. Grab a new one, and like you said if you need a new reel and bearings may as well do it. Should be less than $500 in for it all the way around.


----------



## Benwag

My 2013 flex 2100 is losing torque at the rear drum. Going uphill I can engage the traction unit and it will sit there and not go anywhere, on level ground or down hill it will start out slow and get up to normal speed easily. Adjusted the bellcrank rod as per the manual and it seemed to help at first but not long into my low today we were back at square 1. Anyone have experience with this issue in the traction unit? Before I destroy my mower too bad trying to fix it


----------



## ABC123

If you fold a piece of paper in half and it bends one and cuts the other it should cut. You dont need to cut a single piece of paper all the time.


----------



## Di3soft

So a quick dumb question, when cleaning the mower after mowing, do you just blow it out? or are you washing it our each time? Also are you re greasing every single time you rinse it down? just noticed the bearings on the reel when adding grease the grease coming out of the the weep hole seemed very watery ive rinsed it down twice since ive last added greased it. Should I maybe switch a marine grade #2 grease?


----------



## Bombers

Blow if dry mow. Hose down if wet mow. Toro recommends greasing after hose down regardless of hours (which I guess to purge out any moisture like you're seeing). I'm thinking about picking some zerk caps to prevent moisture and dirt from entering.


----------



## uts

Anyone here using a very old GM1000, like a 1993 model. I have two locally at a golf course that are still being used, they got a few new one and are retiring 2, one with a 8 and one with a 11 bld. Both have a grass catcher and transport wheels.

They already said that the bed knives need to be changed, didnt give a straight reply on the reel so I'm assuming it needs to be changed.

Any ideas on what these should cost would be great.

I want to clean my hands on something less expensive before I go to a good mower since I will be doing any/most maintainence. I see RR has the parts.


----------



## ZachUA

uts said:


> Anyone here using a very old GM1000, like a 1993 model. I have two locally at a golf course that are still being used, they got a few new one and are retiring 2, one with a 8 and one with a 11 bld. Both have a grass catcher and transport wheels.
> 
> They already said that the bed knives need to be changed, didnt give a straight reply on the reel so I'm assuming it needs to be changed.
> 
> Any ideas on what these should cost would be great.
> 
> I want to clean my hands on something less expensive before I go to a good mower since I will be doing any/most maintainence. I see RR has the parts.


They appear to be well used. I wouldnt' pay more than a few hundred for either of those. You're going to have to spend 250ish for a new reel plus 35 for a new bedknife, and then you prob will want to refresh bearings and other wear/tear items....still have labor costs after that unless you can diy it.


----------



## uts

ZachUA said:


> They appear to be well used. I wouldnt' pay more than a few hundred for either of those. You're going to have to spend 250ish for a new reel plus 35 for a new bedknife, and then you prob will want to refresh bearings and other wear/tear items....still have labor costs after that unless you can diy it.


I have never worked on these but can do some work and learn as I do it. My plan was to DIY. Doesn't seem too difficult, just seems it might take time the first time around which I am open to doing over the winter.

A few hundred would be 300 or 800 each?


----------



## ZachUA

uts said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> They appear to be well used. I wouldnt' pay more than a few hundred for either of those. You're going to have to spend 250ish for a new reel plus 35 for a new bedknife, and then you prob will want to refresh bearings and other wear/tear items....still have labor costs after that unless you can diy it.
> 
> 
> 
> I have never worked on these but can do some work and learn as I do it. My plan was to DIY. Doesn't seem too difficult, just seems it might take time the first time around which I am open to doing over the winter.
> 
> A few hundred would be 300 or 800 each?
Click to expand...

I think you'll find that prices for these run the gamut from 200 for something old that needs refurbishing, up to well over 2 grand for something on the newer side on ebay. I watched the auction prices at the last turf sale and they went for roughly 1000-1200 (plus tax + a 10% buyers fee + shipping, so more like 1400-1500 bucks out the door...but, big but, those were around 2012 and newer models). I think with the age of the two you have there I wouldn't give more than 400 for both of them, but again, that's just me personally.

edit: I looked at the pics again and it looks like the reels are ok? The one on the right appears to be in better condition, or at least cleaner. Maybe 400 for that one would be fair?


----------



## cwrx82

uts said:


> Anyone here using a very old GM1000, like a 1993 model. I have two locally at a golf course that are still being used, they got a few new one and are retiring 2, one with a 8 and one with a 11 bld. Both have a grass catcher and transport wheels.
> 
> They already said that the bed knives need to be changed, didnt give a straight reply on the reel so I'm assuming it needs to be changed.
> 
> Any ideas on what these should cost would be great.
> 
> I want to clean my hands on something less expensive before I go to a good mower since I will be doing any/most maintainence. I see RR has the parts.


If I remember correctly, these mowers may be limited to 0.50" HOC at max height. Just in case you're planning on going higher than that.


----------



## Biggylawns

Those are very old, 20+ years. With that said, if they were well maintained then the age shouldn't matter. Toro non-consummable parts are however very expensive so keep that in mind. Bearings, cables, seals, and belts are cheap but its almost cheaper (or is cheaper) to buy a 2nd used mower than to get a replacement carb - this is the exact reason why I bought 2. If those are cheap enough and use the same parts I would advise buying both and selling 1, or both, wheel set(s) and 1 grass catcher. I sold the set of wheels and catcher off my 2nd one and it netted out to me paying 20 bucks for the actual mower.


----------



## uts

Biggylawns said:


> Those are very old, 20+ years. With that said, if they were well maintained then the age shouldn't matter. Toro non-consummable parts are however very expensive so keep that in mind. Bearings, cables, seals, and belts are cheap but its almost cheaper (or is cheaper) to buy a 2nd used mower than to get a replacement carb - this is the exact reason why I bought 2. If those are cheap enough and use the same parts I would advise buying both and selling 1, or both, wheel set(s) and 1 grass catcher. I sold the set of wheels and catcher off my 2nd one and it netted out to me paying 20 bucks for the actual mower.


Hey thank you for this, the person confirmed that both are 1993 models so 27 year old. I was hoping of buying both for the same reason. Do you know the HOC restriction on these? What would you offer for these?


----------



## Biggylawns

uts said:


> Biggylawns said:
> 
> 
> 
> Those are very old, 20+ years. With that said, if they were well maintained then the age shouldn't matter. Toro non-consummable parts are however very expensive so keep that in mind. Bearings, cables, seals, and belts are cheap but its almost cheaper (or is cheaper) to buy a 2nd used mower than to get a replacement carb - this is the exact reason why I bought 2. If those are cheap enough and use the same parts I would advise buying both and selling 1, or both, wheel set(s) and 1 grass catcher. I sold the set of wheels and catcher off my 2nd one and it netted out to me paying 20 bucks for the actual mower.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey thank you for this, the person confirmed that both are 1993 models so 27 year old. I was hoping of buying both for the same reason. Do you know the HOC restriction on these? What would you offer for these?
Click to expand...

I don't know HOC restrictions on them but if you get the serials you can easily find that out by searching Toro's website. What are they asking for them? Given the current market, prices could be higher than normal; however, I've seen really good deals up by me too. In my dealings with courses, they just want them gone for some money since they have a new fleet and they're taking up space. Maybe they'll even grind them for you before you leave or have additional parts.

Based on the pics, they both look to be in good shape. If they start on 1st or 2nd pull, have no drum damage (very expensive or a pia to fix {I know first hand}),the reel has some life and no damage, and no extensive frame rot then I'd buy them, provided the price is right and you want to. Everything else is an easy fix in my opinion.


----------



## DeltaH2o9

Do you have to remove the groomer drive belt before backlapping on a 2014 GM flex 2100 ?


----------



## uts

Did the GM 1600 come with a 9 bld reel?


----------



## cwrx82

uts said:


> Did the GM 1600 come with a 9 bld reel?


Likely 8.


----------



## uts

cwrx82 said:


> uts said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did the GM 1600 come with a 9 bld reel?
> 
> 
> 
> Likely 8.
Click to expand...

The gentleman who I was talking to was sure it was 9 but said the mower was part of a fleet from a high end golf course and that toro does some custom things for them. 🤔


----------



## cwrx82

uts said:


> cwrx82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> uts said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did the GM 1600 come with a 9 bld reel?
> 
> 
> 
> Likely 8.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The gentleman who I was talking to was sure it was 9 but said the mower was part of a fleet from a high end golf course and that toro does some custom things for them. 🤔
Click to expand...

That seems odd. Maybe @Logan200TCP can weigh in, as I believe he works for a Toro dealer/supplier/something along those lines.


----------



## Logan200TCP

uts said:


> cwrx82 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> uts said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did the GM 1600 come with a 9 bld reel?
> 
> 
> 
> Likely 8.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The gentleman who I was talking to was sure it was 9 but said the mower was part of a fleet from a high end golf course and that toro does some custom things for them. 🤔
Click to expand...

8 blades on the GR1600, and that line about Toro doing custom things is BS.
1 blade isn't going to make a difference, Jacobsen uses 7s and 9s, where Toro only uses 8s in that HOC application.


----------



## Logan200TCP

uts said:


> Anyone here using a very old GM1000, like a 1993 model. I have two locally at a golf course that are still being used, they got a few new one and are retiring 2, one with a 8 and one with a 11 bld. Both have a grass catcher and transport wheels.
> 
> They already said that the bed knives need to be changed, didnt give a straight reply on the reel so I'm assuming it needs to be changed.
> 
> Any ideas on what these should cost would be great.
> 
> I want to clean my hands on something less expensive before I go to a good mower since I will be doing any/most maintainence. I see RR has the parts.


I would challenge the model years of these as one has a newer Kawasaki engine and the other has the older tecumseh engine.
Model 04050 (with Tecumseh engine) was produced from 1990 to 1992 
Model 04051 (with Kawi engine, and metal handle) was produced from 1993 to 1995.
Offer $400 for the pair and be done with it.


----------



## uts

Logan200TCP said:


> I would challenge the model years of these as one has a newer Kawasaki engine and the other has the older tecumseh engine.
> Model 04050 (with Tecumseh engine) was produced from 1990 to 1992
> Model 04051 (with Kawi engine, and metal handle) was produced from 1993 to 1995.
> Offer $400 for the pair and be done with it.


Thank you for the guidance. Do you know if these older model had a lower HOC restriction. 0.5" was mentioned and that's what the person said this is cutting right now as well.


----------



## Logan200TCP

The installed 8 blade reel at 0.5" is the only limiting factor.
Installing an 11 blade reel would remedy that problem.


----------



## uts

Logan200TCP said:


> The installed 8 blade reel at 0.5" is the only limiting factor.
> Installing an 11 blade reel would remedy that problem.


I think I didnt phrase correctly. I wanted to cut my KBG at 0.75-1" so was wondering if I could go higher than 0.5". Someone has said that 0.5" was the highest setting with an 8 blade reel on the earlier models.


----------



## TC2

I'm trying to remove the set screws from the reel pullies on a flex 2100. These things are somehow jammed in solid. They've been soaked in penetrating oil for about 3 weeks now. The strongest hex driver I've found that didn't strip just twisted. Looking for any suggestions?


----------



## Greendoc

uts said:


> Logan200TCP said:
> 
> 
> 
> The installed 8 blade reel at 0.5" is the only limiting factor.
> Installing an 11 blade reel would remedy that problem.
> 
> 
> 
> I think I didnt phrase correctly. I wanted to cut my KBG at 0.75-1" so was wondering if I could go higher than 0.5". Someone has said that 0.5" was the highest setting with an 8 blade reel on the earlier models.
Click to expand...

If you had the 8 blade reel and the height adjustment consisting of a bolt on top and a nut to lock the bracket raised by that bolt, it would be possible to mow at 0.75". However, if your height adjuster consists of grenade shaped aluminum knobs that screw onto a bolt and bracket, your range of adjustment is going to be about 0.5" and lower.


----------



## cglass

Hey,

I am wondering what is the steepest slope that a Flex could handle. I live on a cut-de-sac lot with the front having a hill. So the front yard is relatively small with a hill that kind of goes in all directions (kind of like a cone). I currently mow with a Locke at the lowest setting which should be 1/2 inch. However, I think it is higher as I think the mower is floating on top of matted grass. I have Emerald Zoysia. My hill varies from 12-20 degrees.

I looked at a Swardman. @Reelrollers is not too far from me. Lee thinks I would have issues with the Swardman.

The Locke makes it up the hill fine but it has rubber wheels on the back.


----------



## WyGuy

Well, finally joined the club, 2006 Flex 21. Was hoping to find a 1600 but this seemed to be to good of a deal to pass up, $50!. So far, I've given the carb a good cleaning and am now waiting on some replacement gaskets. Sometime over the winter I'll work on replacing belts and bearings.


----------



## Bombers

Wow $50. HOW????


----------



## WyGuy

Bombers said:


> Wow $50. HOW????


I bought it from the local Toro dealer. My assumptions is they received a bunch of trade ins and didn't want to fix them all up and are just trying to make room. They have about a dozen or so of the Flex 21/2100's. About half of them (2003-2006 21's)are marked at $50 and in some sort of disrepair but all seem to at least start.


----------



## Bombers

Wow nice. I would've picked up at least 2 just for a parts machine.


----------



## FATC1TY

Indeed. At that price I would have bought as many as I could have put in the bed of truck, if anything but to steal parts if needed.


----------



## WyGuy

Yeah, I did think about doing that...I looked them all over and feel like I grabbed the one in best condition. Thought process being any of the others would need the same replacements plus more. But maybe I'll stop by again and look at grabbing one more.


----------



## Bombers

Do it. They look in good shape and that deal probably won't come around anytime soon. You can service one, sell it, and pay off for your mower and repair parts cost.

Are you missing the air filter cover or is it just off when you took the pic?


----------



## UtahLow

Hello All,

I'm kind of new to the forums. Well not entirely new. I have read through this thread and found all the information very useful. I just purchase an older Flex 21 and have found that at minimum it will need a new bed knife and new front roller bearings. I had the opportunity to cut with it twice before my KBG and Rye went dormant here in Utah.

First impressions were man this thing is a tank and i bet my neighbors got a funny show watching me try to handle the new flex. I have a Mclane but the flex is on a different level as far as weight and power goes. I was disappointed in my initial cut as the reel would bind up and actually stop spinning (reel to bedknife was adjusted prior to cutting). I attribute that to the fact that my grass was at .75 and the highest I could get the flex at that time was .375 and it has an 11 blade reel on it.

Prior to my second cut, I purchased the high height of cut kit from R&R and installed it. It looks like the lowest it will go now is .50 and will go over 1.0 (I didn't max it out and measure). I also backlapped before this cut and did another reel to bedknife adjustment. I set it at .50 and went for it. I found that the cut was still sub par (missing blades and seemed to be pulling up chunks of turf) even with a double cut. In certain sections of the turf my reel would bind up and I would have to stop the mower and clean out the chunks of turf.

I need your help in deciding if I should just have the 11 blade reel sharpened and a new bed knife installed or should I just go for the 8 blade reel and new bedknife to start out the 2021 season? I guess I should mention that spring and fall I will cut at .50-.75 and in the summer let it come up to 1.0. Piggy backing on the last question, can I get away with an 8 blade reel and no clip kit installed or will I end up succumbing to the ridiculously overpriced clip kit mid season?

Has anyone on here ran an 11 blade reel and cut over .75 and had success???


----------



## davegravy

UtahLow said:


> Has anyone on here ran an 11 blade reel and cut over .75 and had success???


I believe @Stuofsci02 meets that criteria, correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## kichigai

Does anybody know the specs of the engine shaft on a subaru ex 13 which is in stalled on a 2016 toro flex 2120? Thanks


----------



## Stuofsci02

davegravy said:


> UtahLow said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone on here ran an 11 blade reel and cut over .75 and had success???
> 
> 
> 
> I believe @Stuofsci02 meets that criteria, correct me if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...

Yes I have an 11-blade reel and used it all season with KBG at 0.5" to 0.875". Most of the season I was at 0.75".

It works, but is not ideal, and you can't let it get too long between cuts. I always double cut, and it looked great once done. This winter I am switching to an 8-blade reel.


----------



## davegravy

Stuofsci02 said:


> davegravy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UtahLow said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone on here ran an 11 blade reel and cut over .75 and had success???
> 
> 
> 
> I believe @Stuofsci02 meets that criteria, correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes I have an 11-blade reel and used it all season with KBG at 0.5" to 0.875". Most of the season I was at 0.75".
> 
> It works, but is not ideal, and you can't let it get too long between cuts. I always double cut, and it looked great once done. This winter I am switching to an 8-blade reel.
Click to expand...

(He won LOTM so you can't blame this mower setup if you're having problems )


----------



## Stuofsci02

davegravy said:


> Stuofsci02 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> davegravy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I believe @Stuofsci02 meets that criteria, correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I have an 11-blade reel and used it all season with KBG at 0.5" to 0.875". Most of the season I was at 0.75".
> 
> It works, but is not ideal, and you can't let it get too long between cuts. I always double cut, and it looked great once done. This winter I am switching to an 8-blade reel.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> (He won LOTM so you can't blame this mower setup if you're having problems )
Click to expand...

LOL


----------



## TC2

kichigai said:


> Does anybody know the specs of the engine shaft on a subaru ex 13 which is in stalled on a 2016 toro flex 2120? Thanks


If you look in the Toro service manual, it has a link to the engine manual. Might be in there.


----------



## UtahLow

Stuofsci02 said:


> davegravy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UtahLow said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone on here ran an 11 blade reel and cut over .75 and had success???
> 
> 
> 
> I believe @Stuofsci02 meets that criteria, correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes I have an 11-blade reel and used it all season with KBG at 0.5" to 0.875". Most of the season I was at 0.75".
> 
> It works, but is not ideal, and you can't let it get too long between cuts. I always double cut, and it looked great once done. This winter I am switching to an 8-blade reel.
Click to expand...

Awesome! That's good to know. Are you going to the 8 blade so you have more Flexibility in your height of cut?

Also it looks like you won lotm with your current setup. Congrats!


----------



## Stuofsci02

UtahLow said:


> Stuofsci02 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> davegravy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I believe @Stuofsci02 meets that criteria, correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I have an 11-blade reel and used it all season with KBG at 0.5" to 0.875". Most of the season I was at 0.75".
> 
> It works, but is not ideal, and you can't let it get too long between cuts. I always double cut, and it looked great once done. This winter I am switching to an 8-blade reel.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Awesome! That's good to know. Are you going to the 8 blade so you have more Flexibility in your height of cut?
> 
> Also it looks like you won lotm with your current setup. Congrats!
Click to expand...

I'll be honest. You can use the 11-blade as is and it will work, but you if you are a stickler like me you will double cut because you will miss grass blades at 3/4". I am switching to the 8-blade to get a cleaner cut when I just want to do a quick single pass. I am going to spend about $600 US on my Flex 21 this winter so that it is in perfect shape for next year including the 8-blade reel and Hi HOC bedknife. I bought it last year for $900 CAD ($600 US) and it rocked all summer long without so much as a hick-up... Now that I am comfortable that this machine is a winner I have no problem spending the money to keep it tip-top...


----------



## UtahLow

Stuofsci02 said:


> UtahLow said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stuofsci02 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I have an 11-blade reel and used it all season with KBG at 0.5" to 0.875". Most of the season I was at 0.75".
> 
> It works, but is not ideal, and you can't let it get too long between cuts. I always double cut, and it looked great once done. This winter I am switching to an 8-blade reel.
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! That's good to know. Are you going to the 8 blade so you have more Flexibility in your height of cut?
> 
> Also it looks like you won lotm with your current setup. Congrats!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'll be honest. You can use the 11-blade as is and it will work, but you if you are a stickler like me you will double cut because you will miss grass blades at 3/4". I am switching to the 8-blade to get a cleaner cut when I just want to do a quick single pass. I am going to spend about $600 US on my Flex 21 this winter so that it is in perfect shape for next year including the 8-blade reel and Hi HOC bedknife. I bought it last year for $900 CAD ($600 US) and it rocked all summer long without so much as a hick-up... Now that I am comfortable that this machine is a winner I have no problem spending the money to keep it tip-top...
Click to expand...

Thanks Stu! Yup I don't mind investing the money into the machine and I am a stickler  I also know if I buy a new reel and bearings etc that I will have a cutting unit that will last me forever (besides the bed knife). It looks like you and I will be doing the same thing this winter. 8 blade reel Ahoy!


----------



## Stuofsci02

UtahLow said:


> Stuofsci02 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UtahLow said:
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! That's good to know. Are you going to the 8 blade so you have more Flexibility in your height of cut?
> 
> Also it looks like you won lotm with your current setup. Congrats!
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be honest. You can use the 11-blade as is and it will work, but you if you are a stickler like me you will double cut because you will miss grass blades at 3/4". I am switching to the 8-blade to get a cleaner cut when I just want to do a quick single pass. I am going to spend about $600 US on my Flex 21 this winter so that it is in perfect shape for next year including the 8-blade reel and Hi HOC bedknife. I bought it last year for $900 CAD ($600 US) and it rocked all summer long without so much as a hick-up... Now that I am comfortable that this machine is a winner I have no problem spending the money to keep it tip-top...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks Stu! Yup I don't mind investing the money into the machine and I am a stickler  I also know if I buy a new reel and bearings etc that I will have a cutting unit that will last me forever (besides the bed knife). It looks like you and I will be doing the same thing this winter. 8 blade reel Ahoy!
Click to expand...

I think you should be in fine shape. When spring comes my opinion is to just go right to the HOC you want.. It is really hard to bring HOC down in the fall.


----------



## Jgourley124

UtahLow said:


> Has anyone on here ran an 11 blade reel and cut over .75 and had success???


I cut my lawn at 3/4"-1" with a 11 blade reel. Double cut is a must and keeping up the cutting 2-3x a week helps. Anything over 1-1/2" and Ill have to cut with a rotary mower first down to 1" then finish with my reel mower.

Like you've said either a clip kit will work, cutting ,multiple times a week, or a 8 blade reel will be best.


----------



## Harts

@UtahLow as other mentioned above, 0.75" is achievable with an 11 blade reel. Double cut isn't necessary but does give you a cleaner cut.


----------



## Stuofsci02

Harts said:


> @UtahLow as other mentioned above, 0.75" is achievable with an 11 blade reel. Double cut isn't necessary but does give you a cleaner cut.


I just scheduled my Flex21 for an 8 blade reel transplant today. Dropping it off Nov 26th..


----------



## Harts

How much?


----------



## Stuofsci02

Harts said:


> How much?


PM Sent.


----------



## UtahLow

Given that I have a few inches of snow on my yard and my lack patience, I started taking the reel apart. I would say that there is no turning back now.

I am so glad that I didn't just go and order all the parts before I started taking the reel apart. I swear I have a hybrid reel or R&R parts schematic doesn't properly capture my reel parts/components. My Model is an 04200 serial number 210000705. So its one of the oldest cutting units (I'm assuming with that serial number). If you look at the R&R schematic where it says serial numbers up to 23099999 it shows that I would only need a couple bearings 1 wave washer and a thrust waster to rebuild the reel bearings. But when I tore the reel apart I found that it was resembling the higher serial numbered units because it has the 2 retaining rings on the one side but still no thrust washer. I checked the Toro part schematic and nope no thrust washer needed. I guess my point would be, if your going to rebuild your reel bearings I would look up your part schematic on Toro's website then take a it apart and order the parts you know you need.

Also just for reference I measure the diameter of my 11 blade reel and it was around 4.85" on both sides (no conical shape). It looks like the end of life for that reel is 4.5". So even though this unit is way old, the reel still has plenty of life left!

I also need to rebuild the bearings in my front roller and was wondering if anyone out there knows how to get past the seal and properly get those bearings out without ruining anything?

I think you could get away with purchasing a new reel, bearings, washers for around 300. My order is at 420 due to purchasing the bed knife, bed knife tool, air filter, spark plug and front roller bearing kit.

Big shout out to Reel low dad on youtube as well as ReelTurf. Those two have taken the time to detail the take down and rebuilding of the reel parts/components. THANK YOU!


----------



## a_chan

Does the small screw at the bottom end of the float bowl for the FE120 drain the fuel through the carb? I'm trying to find out what it does and thought it might have done that but no fuel is coming out.


----------



## FATC1TY

a_chan said:


> Does the small screw at the bottom end of the float bowl for the FE120 drain the fuel through the carb? I'm trying to find out what it does and thought it might have done that but no fuel is coming out.


Yeah it should. Should have a seal/washer on it if not mistaken. Been a while, but I recall having one leak on a mower after removing it.


----------



## a_chan

FATC1TY said:


> a_chan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does the small screw at the bottom end of the float bowl for the FE120 drain the fuel through the carb? I'm trying to find out what it does and thought it might have done that but no fuel is coming out.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it should. Should have a seal/washer on it if not mistaken. Been a while, but I recall having one leak on a mower after removing it.
Click to expand...

I'm at a loss then. I had the fuel valve shut-off to on and completely removed the screw expecting fuel to come out. I just poured about 1/4 gallon earlier today.


----------



## UtahLow

a_chan said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> a_chan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does the small screw at the bottom end of the float bowl for the FE120 drain the fuel through the carb? I'm trying to find out what it does and thought it might have done that but no fuel is coming out.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it should. Should have a seal/washer on it if not mistaken. Been a while, but I recall having one leak on a mower after removing it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm at a loss then. I had the fuel valve shut-off to on and completely removed the screw expecting fuel to come out. I just poured about 1/4 gallon earlier today.
Click to expand...

Your float/needle might be stuck closed. If you pull off your fuel Line before it goes into the carb does fuel flow out of that line? If so, then you may want to pull the carb bowl off and spray it down with carb cleaner. Be careful with the cleaner as it will strip the paint on your mower. I know from experience on that one. Ha ha


----------



## DFWdude

Is a 2005 greensmaster 1600 26" with 8 blade reel, wheels and grass catcher worth $1400?


----------



## cwrx82

DFWdude said:


> Is a 2005 greensmaster 1600 26" with 8 blade reel, wheels and grass catcher worth $1400?


I'd check it out in person. Start it up and listen to how it runs, check the reel and bedknife sharpness, insure it runs as advertised or better, and check the overall appearance. I'd try to get him down on the price, he sells on here and fb marketplace and has had quite a few machines posted. Prices are much higher than they were last year and even 2 years ago.


----------



## UtahLow

I just wanted to propose an alternative to the 30 dollar bedknife socket tool. Harbor freight sales this set for about 12 dollars. The 5/8 fits the bolt better but won't fit the counter sink. The 1/2 size fit the counter sink and was still big enough to get the job done with an impact drill.


----------



## WyGuy

Can anyone confirm that newer Flex cutting units will work with older traction units? Looks like everything should match up right?

Looks like the upcoming auction has some newer cutting units available and I'm thinking it would nice to have one without a groomer ready to go for my Flex 21, depending on what they go for. Don't need 3, so if anyone is thinking the same thing...let me know.


----------



## ZachUA

What is the height of cut range for the flex 2100? (and does it accept the high hoc kit?)


----------



## UtahLow

New 8 blade reel and high cut bed knife have been installed! Wahoo. The service manual is a must.

Question: should the reel engage the same time the wheels do? Mine doesn't engage until the mower has traveled a few feet or so.


----------



## mower_go_meow

Tuning up my new to me GM1000 and couldn't figure out why the rpms would raise idling for a few minutes. Pilot set screw would vibrate clockwise causing the rpm to raise.

This should do the trick:


----------



## Phxphenom

I am hoping that someone can answer my question. Just to the left of the 2 belts in this pick is what I think is a bracket. It is the rusty looking thing in this picture and is very loose. Is it supposed to be? Mower works great so if not, please advise what to do.
Thanks,
Marc


----------



## Kicker

Phxphenom said:


> I am hoping that someone can answer my question. Just to the left of the 2 belts in this pick is what I think is a bracket. It is the rusty looking thing in this picture and is very loose. Is it supposed to be? Mower works great so if not, please advise what to do.
> Thanks,
> Marc


That rusty thing is a strap that is essentially the "brake". When you engage the brake lever from the console it will pull that strap tight against the drive shaft not allowing it to spin.

Also, Looks like it needs a new recoil starter assembley. The rope/handle is dangling quite far down, somewhat dangerously.


----------



## Phxphenom

Thanks....I have already ordered a new one along with a new fuel filter to replace the leaking one. I was able to buy this for $200 and although it had not been started in a long long time (gas turned to varnish), I cleaned the gas tank and carb (with my buddy Azheat) and we got it working great.

The brake works fine so no action. The rear cover drive for the right side of reel (part # 88-7700-01)has holes/tin worm so I could use a good old spare if anyone has one to sell.
Again thanks,
Marc



Kicker said:


> Phxphenom said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am hoping that someone can answer my question. Just to the left of the 2 belts in this pick is what I think is a bracket. It is the rusty looking thing in this picture and is very loose. Is it supposed to be? Mower works great so if not, please advise what to do.
> Thanks,
> Marc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That rusty thing is a strap that is essentially the "brake". When you engage the brake lever from the console it will pull that strap tight against the drive shaft not allowing it to spin.
> 
> Also, Looks like it needs a new recoil starter assembley. The rope/handle is dangling quite far down, somewhat dangerously.
Click to expand...


----------



## Bombers

Phxphenom said:


> Thanks....I have already ordered a new one along with a new fuel filter to replace the leaking one. I was able to buy this for $200 and although it had not been started in a long long time (gas turned to varnish), I cleaned the gas tank and carb (with my buddy Azheat) and we got it working great.
> 
> The brake works fine so no action. The rear cover drive for the right side of reel (part # 88-7700-01)has holes/tin worm so I could use a good old spare if anyone has one to sell.
> Again thanks,
> Marc
> 
> 
> 
> Kicker said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phxphenom said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am hoping that someone can answer my question. Just to the left of the 2 belts in this pick is what I think is a bracket. It is the rusty looking thing in this picture and is very loose. Is it supposed to be? Mower works great so if not, please advise what to do.
> Thanks,
> Marc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That rusty thing is a strap that is essentially the "brake". When you engage the brake lever from the console it will pull that strap tight against the drive shaft not allowing it to spin.
> 
> Also, Looks like it needs a new recoil starter assembley. The rope/handle is dangling quite far down, somewhat dangerously.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I was able to rewound the coil from the vid by small engine saloon guy on YT, but you're $200 in a mower so probably not too bad to buy a new one. There are a couple of resellers/dealers on ebay or turfnet you can hit up and inquire about a side plate from their parts units.


----------



## Redtwin

Kicker said:


> Phxphenom said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am hoping that someone can answer my question. Just to the left of the 2 belts in this pick is what I think is a bracket. It is the rusty looking thing in this picture and is very loose. Is it supposed to be? Mower works great so if not, please advise what to do.
> Thanks,
> Marc
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That rusty thing is a strap that is essentially the "brake". When you engage the brake lever from the console it will pull that strap tight against the drive shaft not allowing it to spin.
> 
> Also, Looks like it needs a new recoil starter assembley. The rope/handle is dangling quite far down, somewhat dangerously.
Click to expand...

Check out this video to take care of that extra slack in the pull rope without buying a whole new housing.


----------



## Phxphenom

Thanks Redtwin.Now if I could just find a replacement Reel Drive cover (rusted swiss cheeses on bottom).....Surely someone here has a spare parts mower, lol


----------



## WyGuy

Phxphenom said:


> Thanks Redtwin.Now if I could just find a replacement Reel Drive cover (rusted swiss cheeses on bottom).....Surely someone here has a spare parts mower, lol


I had the same issue with the gm1600 I recently picked up, bottoms of all 3 covers were completely rusted through. Didn't have any luck finding used covers so ended up buying new ones, about $185 all in. Though I need to find some new gaskets that go around the edges still.


----------



## Bmossin

WyGuy said:


> Phxphenom said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Redtwin.Now if I could just find a replacement Reel Drive cover (rusted swiss cheeses on bottom).....Surely someone here has a spare parts mower, lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same issue with the gm1600 I recently picked up, bottoms of all 3 covers were completely rusted through. Didn't have any luck finding used covers so ended up buying new ones, about $185 all in. Though I need to find some new gaskets that go around the edges still.
Click to expand...

Im going to give this a try for the gaskets.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/13Feet-Car-Rubber-Seal-Trim-Molding-Strip-Door-Window-Edge-Lock-Protector-Guard/333391755174?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


----------



## ZachUA

Looking for a flex 21 grooved aluminum roller, I think it's 2.5" in diameter (the thickest one they make). If anyone has one they'd like to sell, please let me know.


----------



## Phxphenom

2 Questions from this newbie:
a) Do you always turn off the fuel at fuel filter and run the gas out of the carb when finished mowing?

b) Is it wrong (ie riding the clutch) if I do not put the accelerator handle all of the way down but instead feather it to my liking as I mow? I like this approach but do not want to damage anything. This thing is a beast!

Thanks,
Marc


----------



## Redtwin

@Phxphenom, I have both a Flex and a GM1000. The Flex has a fuel shut off and I run it out before shutting down. The GM1000 doesn't. I have heard that you should turn it off at full throttle and not throttle down. As for the Flex, I don't know if it is correct to shut off fuel and run it dry but that is what we have always done with outboard motors on our boat so I just continue the practice with my mowers. I honestly don't think it matters as long as it won't be sitting for a prolonged period.

For the clutch, I feather the clutch in the turns to keep it smooth and prevent popping wheelies. I believe it is belt driven so the worst you would do is wear the belt down. On the GM1000 the clutch also controls the reel so I don't know that you want to be messing with it throughout a run. If the speed is not right you can just throttle down. I run mine at low throttle for my trim pass with no cut quality issues.


----------



## Phxphenom

Thanks...I failed to mention that I have a new to me GM1000. It does have a fuel shutoff at the fuel filter. Since I am going to be mowing every other day or so, I am unsure if it matters that I run out the fuel at the carb. I also heard that the reel moves at a constant speed regardless of how fast I run the mower....Unsure if true or not but if so, I will slow way down as I have a small yard.....



Redtwin said:


> @Phxphenom, I have both a Flex and a GM1000. The Flex has a fuel shut off and I run it out before shutting down. The GM1000 doesn't. I have heard that you should turn it off at full throttle and not throttle down. As for the Flex, I don't know if it is correct to shut off fuel and run it dry but that is what we have always done with outboard motors on our boat so I just continue the practice with my mowers. I honestly don't think it matters as long as it won't be sitting for a prolonged period.
> 
> For the clutch, I feather the clutch in the turns to keep it smooth and prevent popping wheelies. I believe it is belt driven so the worst you would do is wear the belt down. On the GM1000 the clutch also controls the reel so I don't know that you want to be messing with it throughout a run. If the speed is not right you can just throttle down. I run mine at low throttle for my trim pass with no cut quality issues.


----------



## vwbeaner

Can anyone explain the difference between the bedbar and the aggressive bedbar for the gm1000? Does one push the bed knife further forward? I looks like the aggressive one might be black.

I found the information that I needed here, also some nice reference charts.
https://cdn2.toro.com/en/~/media/Fi...ster/Greensmaster-1000-Accessory-Catalog.ashx

https://cdn2.toro.com/en/-/media/Fi...ter/GR800_1000_1600_Sell_Sheet-4-16-2019.ashx


----------



## rjw0283

Finally pulled the trigger on a new reel for my Flex. Going from a 11 Blade to a 8 Blade, I also found a used grooved roller for 150 on Ebay that I picked up. Both should be arriving tomorrow, I plan on installing this weekend. Will be doing all the other TLC maintenance as well. It's been a workhorse since I started using in May, I love it and decided it was worth throwing some more money at it. Runs awesome, however she doesn't like to start in the cold sometimes. Probably needs a fresh plug, and it's 17 years old.


----------



## marcjw

I switched from an 11 blade reel to an 8 as well. Also a new high cut bedknife and fixed a misalignment issue of the front roller. Between the new modifications and first sand level of my lawn this spring I hope things will be looking good. I'm itching for spring to get here..lol.


----------



## rjw0283

marcjw said:


> I switched from an 11 blade reel to an 8 as well. Also a new high cut bedknife and fixed a misalignment issue of the front roller. Between the new modifications and first sand level of my lawn this spring I hope things will be looking good. I'm itching for spring to get here..lol.


I started it after work. Got to the Reel Nut. (The big one) I was thinking it was a 36MM, it's more like a 32-34. I had a 36MM socket. I'll have to continue tomorrow after I drive into work and get the right size. So far so good, I should have grabbed more than 1 damn socket. :x


----------



## rjw0283

I'm a jackass and ordered the wrong reel. I had the wrong SER # in when I was looking at the manual... apparently they changed the reel slightly a few years after mine. I was struggling trying to get that thing in there. (The reel shaft has a slightly larger diameter which made it getting it in the bearings not possible.)
Hopefully R&R will give me a refund for this one and get me the right one, probably a costly mistake as shipping a reel back isn't going to be cheap.


----------



## Swbeck

Hey guys,
I've started to tear down my Flex 2100 for a reel replacement/cleanup. I got 2 out of the 3 reel pulleys off of the machine, but the 22-tooth is stuck on the reel drive shaft. I can slide it maybe a third of the way off and then it gets stuck. I don't really want to force it off and end up bending the pulley. Any ideas? Stuck on the woodruff key? I don't even know if that can happen.


----------



## WyGuy

Bmossin said:


> WyGuy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Phxphenom said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Redtwin.Now if I could just find a replacement Reel Drive cover (rusted swiss cheeses on bottom).....Surely someone here has a spare parts mower, lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same issue with the gm1600 I recently picked up, bottoms of all 3 covers were completely rusted through. Didn't have any luck finding used covers so ended up buying new ones, about $185 all in. Though I need to find some new gaskets that go around the edges still.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Im going to give this a try for the gaskets.
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/13Feet-Car-Rubber-Seal-Trim-Molding-Strip-Door-Window-Edge-Lock-Protector-Guard/333391755174?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Click to expand...

@Bmossin

FYI, I bit the bullet and bought the gaskets for the covers from a Toro dealer. After receiving them, I'm 99.9% sure it's a trim-lok product that's linked below. You might want to double check the edge thickness though.

https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Edge-Trim-Protector-Push/dp/B00NL45NQI?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1


----------



## Bmossin

@WyGuy Thanks!


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Sorry if this has been asked before, but does anyone know anything about the "Backlap Access Kit" that is shown on the newer model GM1000's? More specifically, is it an auto backlap function like there is on the Jacobsen Eclipse by just pushing a button on the screen?


----------



## Theycallmemrr

Is R&R the cheapest place to get replacement belts for a GM1000? I am looking at replacing all the belts and its ~$100 to change them.


----------



## FedDawg555

GM 1000/1600 Belt Covers-Maintenance 
Off season is a great time to pull those covers and clean out the debris and touch up paint the bottoms. The bottoms get scrapped pretty bad and will become a rust hole if not maintained.

So it got me thinking while I touched up the paint, if anyone has thought of some type of heavier duty coating to put on the bottoms. I'm thinking like a spray on bed liner type coating, adhesive rubber strip, something better than just painted metal. Any ideas or thoughts? Bored winter and mind is working.


----------



## Bmossin

@FedDawg555 maybe some POR15, color will not match then though. On the one I have been wrenching on, I painted the covers black vs sticking with red.

On a more important note...since when did Papa Johns do stuffed crust? Is it any good?


----------



## FATC1TY

WyGuy said:


> Bmossin said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WyGuy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same issue with the gm1600 I recently picked up, bottoms of all 3 covers were completely rusted through. Didn't have any luck finding used covers so ended up buying new ones, about $185 all in. Though I need to find some new gaskets that go around the edges still.
> 
> 
> 
> Im going to give this a try for the gaskets.
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/13Feet-Car-Rubber-Seal-Trim-Molding-Strip-Door-Window-Edge-Lock-Protector-Guard/333391755174?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @Bmossin
> 
> FYI, I bit the bullet and bought the gaskets for the covers from a Toro dealer. After receiving them, I'm 99.9% sure it's a trim-lok product that's linked below. You might want to double check the edge thickness though.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Edge-Trim-Protector-Push/dp/B00NL45NQI?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1
Click to expand...

Great info! This is exactly what it is, and for those suffering some some vibrations on their covers this will fix it.


----------



## FedDawg555

Bmossin said:


> @FedDawg555 maybe some POR15, color will not match then though. On the one I have been wrenching on, I painted the covers black vs sticking with red.
> 
> On a more important note...since when did Papa Johns do stuffed crust? Is it any good?


Papas came out like 2-3 weeks ago with the stuffed crust...it's good stuff bro


----------



## FedDawg555

WyGuy said:


> Bmossin said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> WyGuy said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had the same issue with the gm1600 I recently picked up, bottoms of all 3 covers were completely rusted through. Didn't have any luck finding used covers so ended up buying new ones, about $185 all in. Though I need to find some new gaskets that go around the edges still.
> 
> 
> 
> Im going to give this a try for the gaskets.
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/13Feet-Car-Rubber-Seal-Trim-Molding-Strip-Door-Window-Edge-Lock-Protector-Guard/333391755174?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @Bmossin
> 
> FYI, I bit the bullet and bought the gaskets for the covers from a Toro dealer. After receiving them, I'm 99.9% sure it's a trim-lok product that's linked below. You might want to double check the edge thickness though.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Trim-Lok-Edge-Trim-Protector-Push/dp/B00NL45NQI?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1
Click to expand...

I bought the Toro gaskets last year but looking at those Trim-Loks that look exactly like the Toro. Much cheaper too buying it by the roll and cutting it yourself. I wonder what size though on the Amazon will fit the lip? If someone gets it and confirms fit please post so others will know what to get.


----------



## rjw0283

Theycallmemrr said:


> Is R&R the cheapest place to get replacement belts for a GM1000? I am looking at replacing all the belts and its ~$100 to change them.


I'd call a toro dealer. I bought belts for my flex, and I don't think i paid all that much for multiple belts.


----------



## FedDawg555

FedDawg555 said:


> GM 1000/1600 Belt Covers-Maintenance
> Off season is a great time to pull those covers and clean out the debris and touch up paint the bottoms. The bottoms get scrapped pretty bad and will become a rust hole if not maintained.
> 
> So it got me thinking while I touched up the paint, if anyone has thought of some type of heavier duty coating to put on the bottoms. I'm thinking like a spray on bed liner type coating, adhesive rubber strip, something better than just painted metal. Any ideas or thoughts? Bored winter and mind is working.


So I decided to to try the Raptor Fire Red Spray on Bedliner. I masked off the covers to just do the bottoms and made sure not to spray the very edge where the gasket goes not knowing how that bedliner would build up affects the tight fitting gasket.





I then cleaned the metal area to be Raptor with a degreaser and used their aerosol adhesion enhancer 2 coats. Let that dry an hour.

The Raptor is already colored red which is nice the shade is close but you can tell it's off a little. Once you activate the can you have 60 minutes to finish or the chemical hardening agent makes it useless.

You have to spray this stuff a minimum of 2-3 feet away as it builds up quickly. Light coats and then wait 20 minutes to flash off and then apply another coat. I did total of three coats.

Wait about 45 minutes and then unmask the area producing good clean lines.

The can says after 24 hours you can lightly sand it and apply a topcoat of paint but since I just did the bottoms I was happy. If I had done the the whole covers I would probably top coat with the Toro Red to match.

Can says coating is fully cured in 3 days. I'll let y'all know how hard it gets but honestly until I start mowing won't know how it holds up. My thought is anything is harder than just plain painted metal especially on the bottoms of the covers.


----------



## rjw0283

rjw0283 said:


> I'm a jackass and ordered the wrong reel. I had the wrong SER # in when I was looking at the manual... apparently they changed the reel slightly a few years after mine. I was struggling trying to get that thing in there. (The reel shaft has a slightly larger diameter which made it getting it in the bearings not possible.)
> Hopefully R&R will give me a refund for this one and get me the right one, probably a costly mistake as shipping a reel back isn't going to be cheap.


I got the right reel on Saturday. Got it on! A little pain in the ***, my Flex has the old type canister seals, I should have converted to the newer type. Got it all back together and backlapped. 
I seemed to lose some height for HOC with the new grooved roller. :?


----------



## Theycallmemrr

rjw0283 said:


> Theycallmemrr said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is R&R the cheapest place to get replacement belts for a GM1000? I am looking at replacing all the belts and its ~$100 to change them.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd call a toro dealer. I bought belts for my flex, and I don't think i paid all that much for multiple belts.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. I need to look up my nearest dealer.


----------



## FATC1TY

Theycallmemrr said:


> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Theycallmemrr said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is R&R the cheapest place to get replacement belts for a GM1000? I am looking at replacing all the belts and its ~$100 to change them.
> 
> 
> 
> I'd call a toro dealer. I bought belts for my flex, and I don't think i paid all that much for multiple belts.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. I need to look up my nearest dealer.
Click to expand...

Same here. I bought from dealer and it wasn't that bad for the belts.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

FATC1TY said:


> Theycallmemrr said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'd call a toro dealer. I bought belts for my flex, and I don't think i paid all that much for multiple belts.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. I need to look up my nearest dealer.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Same here. I bought from dealer and it wasn't that bad for the belts.
Click to expand...

@FATC1TY I am right outside of Athens. Where did you purchase the belts from. When I looked at Toro's website the only dealer is A. Jerry Pate Turf & Irrigation, Inc. If memory serves me correct they were more expensive than R&R.


----------



## FedDawg555

Theycallmemrr said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Theycallmemrr said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. I need to look up my nearest dealer.
> 
> 
> 
> Same here. I bought from dealer and it wasn't that bad for the belts.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @FATC1TY I am right outside of Athens. Where did you purchase the belts from. When I looked at Toro's website the only dealer is A. Jerry Pate Turf & Irrigation, Inc. If memory serves me correct they were more expensive than R&R.
Click to expand...

Here's my invoice from Jerry Pate here in Atlanta. The belts are very reasonable. V Belt, 2 Drum Traction Belt, and a Differential Belt. The reel belt not on this invoice is like the drum belt in price 18 bucks.

Ignore the clip kit whew that was expensive. LoL

@Theycallmemrr Small world I'm in Athens/Watkinsville too


----------



## FATC1TY

Theycallmemrr said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Theycallmemrr said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the heads up. I need to look up my nearest dealer.
> 
> 
> 
> Same here. I bought from dealer and it wasn't that bad for the belts.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @FATC1TY I am right outside of Athens. Where did you purchase the belts from. When I looked at Toro's website the only dealer is A. Jerry Pate Turf & Irrigation, Inc. If memory serves me correct they were more expensive than R&R.
Click to expand...

I got my stuff from Jerry Pate and it was cheaper than R&R. Infact just about everything I got was within a few bucks of R&R and was toro branded.


----------



## FedDawg555

FATC1TY said:


> Theycallmemrr said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> Same here. I bought from dealer and it wasn't that bad for the belts.
> 
> 
> 
> @FATC1TY I am right outside of Athens. Where did you purchase the belts from. When I looked at Toro's website the only dealer is A. Jerry Pate Turf & Irrigation, Inc. If memory serves me correct they were more expensive than R&R.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I got my stuff from Jerry Pate and it was cheaper than R&R. Infact just about everything I got was within a few bucks of R&R and was toro branded.
Click to expand...

Truth....


----------



## rjw0283

FedDawg555 said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Theycallmemrr said:
> 
> 
> 
> @FATC1TY I am right outside of Athens. Where did you purchase the belts from. When I looked at Toro's website the only dealer is A. Jerry Pate Turf & Irrigation, Inc. If memory serves me correct they were more expensive than R&R.
> 
> 
> 
> I got my stuff from Jerry Pate and it was cheaper than R&R. Infact just about everything I got was within a few bucks of R&R and was toro branded.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Truth....
Click to expand...

R&R is high on most things, they provide a convenience as you can order things online. My dealer is good, however you have to call into them. 
Everything i've ordered from the dealer isn't super high in price (except the clutch cable, that was around 100 bucks.)


----------



## FedDawg555

rjw0283 said:


> FedDawg555 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> I got my stuff from Jerry Pate and it was cheaper than R&R. Infact just about everything I got was within a few bucks of R&R and was toro branded.
> 
> 
> 
> Truth....
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> R&R is high on most things, they provide a convenience as you can order things online. My dealer is good, however you have to call into them.
> Everything i've ordered from the dealer isn't super high in price (except the clutch cable, that was around 100 bucks.)
Click to expand...

RR has its place I just hated their shipping prices which are outrageous in my opinion and often negates any appreciable savings.

If you call Jerry Pate and set up a cash account you will get online access to order parts or check prices. I hated calling every time I just wanted to check stuff. Easy process setting up a cash account.


----------



## cutigers08

FedDawg555 said:


> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FedDawg555 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Truth....
> 
> 
> 
> R&R is high on most things, they provide a convenience as you can order things online. My dealer is good, however you have to call into them.
> Everything i've ordered from the dealer isn't super high in price (except the clutch cable, that was around 100 bucks.)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> RR has its place I just hated their shipping prices which are outrageous in my opinion and often negates any appreciable savings.
> 
> If you call Jerry Pate and set up a cash account you will get online access to order parts or check prices. I hated calling every time I just wanted to check stuff. Easy process setting up a cash account.
Click to expand...

I did a complete refurb on mine and did genuine Toro parts on everything through STI in Charlotte since its local. When I ordered my 8 blade Edge series reel, bearings, and bed knife it was like $30 more than R&R. No brainer for me with all the fitment issues I hear about with their reels and high cut knives. They also were super helpful getting me all sorts of decals and odds and ends.


----------



## FedDawg555

Edge Series reels are really nice.


----------



## Phxphenom

What are those roller extensions for? I have never seen those....Thx



cutigers08 said:


> FedDawg555 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> 
> R&R is high on most things, they provide a convenience as you can order things online. My dealer is good, however you have to call into them.
> Everything i've ordered from the dealer isn't super high in price (except the clutch cable, that was around 100 bucks.)
> 
> 
> 
> RR has its place I just hated their shipping prices which are outrageous in my opinion and often negates any appreciable savings.
> 
> If you call Jerry Pate and set up a cash account you will get online access to order parts or check prices. I hated calling every time I just wanted to check stuff. Easy process setting up a cash account.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I did a complete refurb on mine and did genuine Toro parts on everything through STI in Charlotte since its local. When I ordered my 8 blade Edge series reel, bearings, and bed knife it was like $30 more than R&R. No brainer for me with all the fitment issues I hear about with their reels and high cut knives. They also were super helpful getting me all sorts of decals and odds and ends.
Click to expand...


----------



## cutigers08

They are to prevent hard cut lines on uneven turf


----------



## FATC1TY

FedDawg555 said:


> Edge Series reels are really nice.


Can confirm. I was extremely happy with my new reel. MUCH sharper than I expected.


----------



## thesouthernreelmower

Could someone tell me how the led lights get power on the flex 2100? With it being a pull start engine what generates the power and do all Honda/subura engine have this capability?


----------



## Redtwin

cutigers08 said:


> They are to prevent hard cut lines on uneven turf


Ohhhhh... I might need to find some of those!


----------



## Phxphenom

Got a part # or any idea where one can buy a set?
Thanks,
marc



cutigers08 said:


> They are to prevent hard cut lines on uneven turf


----------



## cutigers08

Redtwin said:


> cutigers08 said:
> 
> 
> 
> They are to prevent hard cut lines on uneven turf
> 
> 
> 
> Ohhhhh... I might need to find some of those!
Click to expand...


----------



## cutigers08

FATC1TY said:


> FedDawg555 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Edge Series reels are really nice.
> 
> 
> 
> Can confirm. I was extremely happy with my new reel. MUCH sharper than I expected.
Click to expand...

My edge series was super sharp. After a light backlap to mate it with the bed knife grazed the reel with my knuckle and it took some meat off!


----------



## Stuofsci02

Just picked up my Flex 21 today after changing the 11 blade reel to an 8-blade (107-7634) and high cut bed knife (94-6392). Can't wait to try this out. The thickness of the bedknife is unbelievable compared to my old one. It cuts paper like it is nothing.


----------



## XLT_66

Hey folks,

I've started the process of moving towards the scalp. I mowed the lawn last week, cleaning things up, etc.

I noticed that the reel was getting bogged down and stalled during circumstances that the machine used to power through previously.

Is this a matter of belts wearing out or needing to be adjusted or something else? The reel is sharp, cuts paper. I wasn't removing too much material, really, when mowing.

Thoughts?


----------



## outlaw8483

Just got my first toro greensmaster! OfferUp deal for 400! Took it home cleaned it up and drained the tank. Going to replace the spark plug and give it some fresh oil. Possibly buy a new bed knife as well.


----------



## Redtwin

@outlaw8483 Wow! That is a great find!


----------



## FedDawg555

outlaw8483 said:


> Just got my first toro greensmaster! OfferUp deal for 400! Took it home cleaned it up and drained the tank. Going to replace the spark plug and give it some fresh oil. Possibly buy a new bed knife as well.


You friggen stole that. Good find. Download manual and check everything. Purge those grease fittings with fresh grease to make sure water haven't been sitting on bearings. Have fun you got a great machine


----------



## outlaw8483

Redtwin said:


> @outlaw8483 Wow! That is a great find!


Thanks man it's like a dream come true haha


----------



## outlaw8483

FedDawg555 said:


> outlaw8483 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just got my first toro greensmaster! OfferUp deal for 400! Took it home cleaned it up and drained the tank. Going to replace the spark plug and give it some fresh oil. Possibly buy a new bed knife as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You friggen stole that. Good find. Download manual and check everything. Purge those grease fittings with fresh grease to make sure water haven't been sitting on bearings. Have fun you got a great machine
Click to expand...

I drove away like I stole it haha. He originally wanted 700 but talked him down to 500 then when we met up he couldn't get it started and dropped it to 400. I couldn't pull my wallet out fast enough. The tank was rusty with old gas. So when I got home I cleaned everything out of the tank and did the basic maintenance. It fired right up then my wife said I looked like a kid that got a PS5 for Christmas.


----------



## FedDawg555

Finally got everything done on the GM1600 and she's ready for the season.
New Toro EdgeMax Reel, Bearings, and Seals
New Toro Clip Kit
Toro High Cut Bedknife Sharpened 
New Differential Belt
New Pull Cord
All Covers repainted and Raptor Bedcoating on Bottoms.
Oil Changed and Air Filter.
She's ready!


----------



## Redtwin

@FedDawg555 Good grief! That is one SWEET machine!!!


----------



## FedDawg555

Redtwin said:


> @FedDawg555 Good grief! That is one SWEET machine!!!


After one season I knew she was a keeper and decided to invest in a long term relationship! Daddy taught me to take care of your stuff and it will last forever. I often go overboard tho.


----------



## gooodawgs

Looks awesome @FedDawg555 Did you use Toro paint for the metal touch up? Whatd you use the engine paint? Beautiful machine


----------



## FedDawg555

gooodawgs said:


> Looks awesome @FedDawg555 Did you use Toro paint for the metal touch up? Whatd you use the engine paint? Beautiful machine


Yeah I just used the Toro New Red and the Toro Black for the touch up. When I got her last year she's a 2013 with 600 hours so she was in really good shape already. I just took advantage of winter to really dig into her and clean, replace what needed and touch up. I did forget to touch up the inside area where reel and roller mounts. After everything got put back together, drum and reel squared and leveled. I realized it. I'll get it next year, I'm not taking it apart for just touch up. I'm really impressed with the Raptor Bed Liner I put on the cover bottoms. I think it's going to really help them get thru a season without tearing up.


----------



## Phxphenom

Just curious about what you are doing behind the side drum covers.....Are you greasing everything up or is everything dry? My unsides look pretty nasty and all I have done was grease the zerk fittings.....

Thanks,
Marc



FedDawg555 said:


> gooodawgs said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks awesome @FedDawg555 Did you use Toro paint for the metal touch up? Whatd you use the engine paint? Beautiful machine
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I just used the Toro New Red and the Toro Black for the touch up. When I got her last year she's a 2013 with 600 hours so she was in really good shape already. I just took advantage of winter to really dig into her and clean, replace what needed and touch up. I did forget to touch up the inside area where reel and roller mounts. After everything got put back together, drum and reel squared and leveled. I realized it. I'll get it next year, I'm not taking it apart for just touch up. I'm really impressed with the Raptor Bed Liner I put on the cover bottoms. I think it's going to really help them get thru a season without tearing up.
Click to expand...


----------



## FedDawg555

Phxphenom said:


> Just curious about what you are doing behind the side drum covers.....Are you greasing everything up or is everything dry? My unsides look pretty nasty and all I have done was grease the zerk fittings.....
> 
> Thanks,
> Marc
> 
> 
> 
> FedDawg555 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gooodawgs said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks awesome @FedDawg555 Did you use Toro paint for the metal touch up? Whatd you use the engine paint? Beautiful machine
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I just used the Toro New Red and the Toro Black for the touch up. When I got her last year she's a 2013 with 600 hours so she was in really good shape already. I just took advantage of winter to really dig into her and clean, replace what needed and touch up. I did forget to touch up the inside area where reel and roller mounts. After everything got put back together, drum and reel squared and leveled. I realized it. I'll get it next year, I'm not taking it apart for just touch up. I'm really impressed with the Raptor Bed Liner I put on the cover bottoms. I think it's going to really help them get thru a season without tearing up.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Clean them up. When the insides get nasty buildup of wet grass and grease it will lead to belt failure and rust. Nothing in there needs grease but as you grease and use the machine inevitability old grease will purge out. I clean the insides of my covers a couple times a season just to keep build up at bay. Go easy on the bolts for the covers just snug them otherwise you may strip out the rivet nuts. They can be a real pain in the azz to replace. Because this area does hold moisture I add a little anti seize to the bolts so they don't seize up and screw the rivet nuts up.


----------



## Phxphenom

Thanks...I'll do that!


----------



## RUBICON16

Anyone know how to determine the year of a greensmaster 1600?

Model 04056
Serial No 316001064


----------



## FedDawg555

RUBICON16 said:


> Anyone know how to determine the year of a greensmaster 1600?
> 
> Model 04056
> Serial No 316001064


316 is a 2016
Mine is 313 which is 2013


----------



## Theycallmemrr

I went to check on my 1000 and it won't start. I took the spark plug off and grounded it to the engine. I get a spark. I smelled gas when I tried cranking it while checking the spark plug. I tried starter fluid today. I also took the wires connected to the clutch switch (the one with the plunger) and connected them together. Still did not start. I just printed the chapter on the electrical system and plan to get very familiar with it. If you have any suggestions I am all ears.


----------



## SNOWBOB11

It's more than likely the carburetor as it pretty much always is. Remove and clean with carb cleaner and compressed air. Make sure to clean the jets. Also empty the gas tank and put fresh gas in.


----------



## rjw0283

Theycallmemrr said:


> I went to check on my 1000 and it won't start. I took the spark plug off and grounded it to the engine. I get a spark. I smelled gas when I tried cranking it while checking the spark plug. I tried starter fluid today. I also took the wires connected to the clutch switch (the one with the plunger) and connected them together. Still did not start. I just printed the chapter on the electrical system and plan to get very familiar with it. If you have any suggestions I am all ears.


It didn't start with starting fluid? It should have at least ran for a few seconds.


----------



## Redtwin

rjw0283 said:


> It didn't start with starting fluid? It should have at least ran for a few seconds.


Yep... if this was me I would replace the spark plug. I have a generator that won't start after sitting for a while and will crank right up when I replace the plug. I can still get a spark on the old one but for some reason it won't run on it. I don't think it's a gap issue but can't think of anything else. A new plug is only a couple of dollars so give it a shot. If that's not the problem then at least you have a spare. Cleaning the carb and dumping the old fuel is always good, but like @rjw0283 said, it should have run at least a little bit hitting it with starter fluid.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

rjw0283 said:


> Theycallmemrr said:
> 
> 
> 
> I went to check on my 1000 and it won't start. I took the spark plug off and grounded it to the engine. I get a spark. I smelled gas when I tried cranking it while checking the spark plug. I tried starter fluid today. I also took the wires connected to the clutch switch (the one with the plunger) and connected them together. Still did not start. I just printed the chapter on the electrical system and plan to get very familiar with it. If you have any suggestions I am all ears.
> 
> 
> 
> It didn't start with starting fluid? It should have at least ran for a few seconds.
Click to expand...

I was hoping it would run but it didn't.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

Redtwin said:


> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> 
> It didn't start with starting fluid? It should have at least ran for a few seconds.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep... if this was me I would replace the spark plug. I have a generator that won't start after sitting for a while and will crank right up when I replace the plug. I can still get a spark on the old one but for some reason it won't run on it. I don't think it's a gap issue but can't think of anything else. A new plug is only a couple of dollars so give it a shot. If that's not the problem then at least you have a spare. Cleaning the carb and dumping the old fuel is always good, but like @rjw0283 said, it should have run at least a little bit hitting it with starter fluid.
Click to expand...

I will try getting a new plug for it. I know the plug has only 1 season of use. But it is worth a try. I filled the tank right at the end of last season (Late October/Early November). My California Trimmer started right up so at least I can scalp my lawn soon and was also filled at the same time from the same container of gas. I am thinking of changing the carb out as I have a small leak from an o ring in the bottom of the bowl.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

So I have the choice of this carb of ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/15003-2718...705865?hash=item1aac7829c9:g:7tgAAOSwht1fzfSB for $50

or

An OEM one from Amazon for $140.

Which one should I go for?


----------



## Phxphenom

I would not get a new carb. Remove old one once you remove air filter cover. Clean the jets. There is a jet on top of the carb that you can remove with a slotted screwdriver. That little jet has hole that is likely plugged. Use a very thin piece of wire to poke through it.

By the way, I know this sounds stupid but is the on/off switch staying on the on position?

My two cents anyways,
Marc


----------



## Redtwin

Phxphenom said:


> By the way, I know this sounds stupid but is the on/off switch staying on the on position?


Sounds silly but good point... I recently had this issue on a sod cutter.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

Phxphenom said:


> I would not get a new carb. Remove old one once you remove air filter cover. Clean the jets. There is a jet on top of the carb that you can remove with a slotted screwdriver. That little jet has hole that is likely plugged. Use a very thin piece of wire to poke through it.
> 
> By the way, I know this sounds stupid but is the on/off switch staying on the on position?
> 
> My two cents anyways,
> Marc


It stayed on the on position while cranking. I was thinking it could possibly be a bad switch. I need to find my multimeter and start testing the electrical components this weekend.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

Phxphenom said:


> I would not get a new carb. Remove old one once you remove air filter cover. Clean the jets. There is a jet on top of the carb that you can remove with a slotted screwdriver. That little jet has hole that is likely plugged. Use a very thin piece of wire to poke through it.
> 
> By the way, I know this sounds stupid but is the on/off switch staying on the on position?
> 
> My two cents anyways,
> Marc


I cleaned it out last year but that does not mean it did not get dirty from use this year. I will try cleaning the jets out and see. The main reason behind getting a new carb was the tiny gas leak I have,.


----------



## SNOWBOB11

I'm usually a fan of changing carbs on small engines when they have issues but in this case I'm sure you can get a replacement o-ring for pretty cheap so if you can get the carb cleaned and that's the issue you can save some coin. At least try that before buying a new one.


----------



## gooodawgs

Does anyone know the specs of the transport wheels for the 1600? Toro dealer is charging $300 for the pair and I'm not going to be dragging it around that much. I was thinking of a Harbor Freight cart wheel or something, it doesn't need to completely clip in. Has anyone used other wheels for this?


----------



## The_iHenry

Has anyone replaced the bearings on their groomer?


----------



## Jack2012

Could anyone advise what's involved in undoing/removing handlebars on flex21/Greensmaster 1000 to reduce height for shipping. Don't need to completely remove them but just hope they can unbolted from frame and maybe layed down on top mower. Mowers will be crated so need to reduce height if possible?


----------



## jimbeckel

gooodawgs said:


> Does anyone know the specs of the transport wheels for the 1600? Toro dealer is charging $300 for the pair and I'm not going to be dragging it around that much. I was thinking of a Harbor Freight cart wheel or something, it doesn't need to completely clip in. Has anyone used other wheels for this?


I tried going that route when I rebuilt my machine and it was a failure. I ended up buying the replacement wheels from my Toro dealer.


----------



## gooodawgs

jimbeckel said:


> gooodawgs said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the specs of the transport wheels for the 1600? Toro dealer is charging $300 for the pair and I'm not going to be dragging it around that much. I was thinking of a Harbor Freight cart wheel or something, it doesn't need to completely clip in. Has anyone used other wheels for this?
> 
> 
> 
> I tried going that route when I rebuilt my machine and it was a failure. I ended up buying the replacement wheels from my Toro dealer.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I'm going to see if the shop can find some used ones - I'm fine putting $300 more into the machine, but for some reason this $300 just for wheels is driving me crazy. :shock: Thanks guys


----------



## FedDawg555

gooodawgs said:


> jimbeckel said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gooodawgs said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the specs of the transport wheels for the 1600? Toro dealer is charging $300 for the pair and I'm not going to be dragging it around that much. I was thinking of a Harbor Freight cart wheel or something, it doesn't need to completely clip in. Has anyone used other wheels for this?
> 
> 
> 
> I tried going that route when I rebuilt my machine and it was a failure. I ended up buying the replacement wheels from my Toro dealer.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I'm going to see if the shop can find some used ones - I'm fine putting $300 more into the machine, but for some reason this $300 just for wheels is driving me crazy. :shock: Thanks guys
Click to expand...

Just an idea but check with Greg at Prairie Turf. They get so many machines they may have some transport wheels in storage they'd be willing to sell. Even if you just get the hubs the tires are cheap.
https://prairieturfequipment.com/


----------



## uts

For the toro 1600 guys

https://www.turfnet.com/classifieds/item/40468-2019-toro-reels-new/


----------



## FedDawg555

uts said:


> For the toro 1600 guys
> 
> https://www.turfnet.com/classifieds/item/40468-2019-toro-reels-new/


That's a great deal. New ones are 389.


----------



## FATC1TY

Tempted to buy one of those for insurance. Change a reel once you you feel like a pro!! &#128514;

It's gonna be rainy and gross this weekend and I'm already scalped and down with the PreM, so I'm planning on doing an oil change, carb flush, air filter, backlap and possibly change belts on my GM1600. Give it all a good squirt of grease after a good power wash and be ready to start cutting in a few weeks. Got some good green up already and itching to get a head start!

Had anyone found a good venue for the side covers? Mine could use some TLC on the bottom, and while fine and look okay, I want to get them a little more "whole" soon to avoid any issues.


----------



## FedDawg555

FATC1TY said:


> Tempted to buy one of those for insurance. Change a reel once you you feel like a pro!! 😂
> 
> It's gonna be rainy and gross this weekend and I'm already scalped and down with the PreM, so I'm planning on doing an oil change, carb flush, air filter, backlap and possibly change belts on my GM1600. Give it all a good squirt of grease after a good power wash and be ready to start cutting in a few weeks. Got some good green up already and itching to get a head start!
> 
> Had anyone found a good venue for the side covers? Mine could use some TLC on the bottom, and while fine and look okay, I want to get them a little more "whole" soon to avoid any issues.


Jerry Pate for new covers if yours are rusted thru. Drum drive covers 57 bucks. Reel Belt Covers 52.


----------



## XLT_66

XLT_66 said:


> Hey folks,
> 
> I've started the process of moving towards the scalp. I mowed the lawn last week, cleaning things up, etc.
> 
> I noticed that the reel was getting bogged down and stalled during circumstances that the machine used to power through previously.
> 
> Is this a matter of belts wearing out or needing to be adjusted or something else? The reel is sharp, cuts paper. I wasn't removing too much material, really, when mowing.
> 
> Thoughts?


Bringing this back up for visibility - what could be causing the reel to bind up while trying to scalp? I don't recall this being an issue in the past at all. Open the reel to bed knife gap a bit? The mower is surging at idle right now - maybe the carb is dirty - thus making it down on power and not being able to cut through the tough stuff.

Any ideas? The reel stop spinning and gets jammed when only trying to shave down 2-3mm from current height.


----------



## Redtwin

@XLT_66 
As you get lower, the reel is cutting stems instead of leaf blades so it struggles. I started having the same issue last season. This year when I scalped it was really bad. I was losing all kinds of power. I opened up the belt housing and both drive belts were cracked. They hadn't broken yet but obviously were not transferring all the power to the reel. My replacements from R&R just came in this afternoon so I will be replacing them and will let you know if that solves my issue. How old are your belts?


----------



## XLT_66

Redtwin said:


> @XLT_66
> As you get lower, the reel is cutting stems instead of leaf blades so it struggles. I started having the same issue last season. This year when I scalped it was really bad. I was losing all kinds of power. I opened up the belt housing and both drive belts were cracked. They hadn't broken yet but obviously were not transferring all the power to the reel. My replacements from R&R just came in this afternoon so I will be replacing them and will let you know if that solves my issue. How old are your belts?


I'd imagine they're quite old. However, them being ribbed/toothed belts - it seems strange that a belt that wasn't broken would have trouble transferring power. I don't believe them to be jumping "teeth" or anything.

The idea around cutting blades of grass versus stems makes a bunch of sense to me. However, I just can't remember this being a problem last year at all. Though, I had just installed a new reel last year so maybe it being sharper gave it the extra cutting ability to not jam up.

EDIT: Would moving from an 11-blade to an 8-blade make any difference? More space between clips - taking a "bigger bite" of grass/stems could be more difficult to cut?

Maybe I'll open things up this PM and take a gander...


----------



## Redtwin

XLT_66 said:


> Redtwin said:
> 
> 
> 
> @XLT_66
> As you get lower, the reel is cutting stems instead of leaf blades so it struggles. I started having the same issue last season. This year when I scalped it was really bad. I was losing all kinds of power. I opened up the belt housing and both drive belts were cracked. They hadn't broken yet but obviously were not transferring all the power to the reel. My replacements from R&R just came in this afternoon so I will be replacing them and will let you know if that solves my issue. How old are your belts?
> 
> 
> 
> I'd imagine they're quite old. However, them being ribbed/toothed belts - it seems strange that a belt that wasn't broken would have trouble transferring power. I don't believe them to be jumping "teeth" or anything.
> 
> The idea around cutting blades of grass versus stems makes a bunch of sense to me. However, I just can't remember this being a problem last year at all. Though, I had just installed a new reel last year so maybe it being sharper gave it the extra cutting ability to not jam up.
> 
> EDIT: Would moving from an 11-blade to an 8-blade make any difference? More space between clips - taking a "bigger bite" of grass/stems could be more difficult to cut?
> 
> Maybe I'll open things up this PM and take a gander...
Click to expand...

The two belts I replaced are smooth. They are dual belts part 92-9218. Maybe I have an older machine. Mine is a 04052 series.


----------



## XLT_66

Anyone know where one could buy a GM1600 grass catcher? Or at least have a ballpark idea of how much one would cost?


----------



## Redtwin

Reporting back after replacing the 92-9218 belts due to loss of power:
That was clearly the problem. The mower now wants to pop wheelies and can now drive the reel through some thick turf. One problem that I am now having is that I am now unable to roll the mower backwards even with the brake and reel completely disengaged. Does anyone have any experience with this issue? I'm hoping that after running the machine for a couple of mows, it will loosen up enough that I can roll it backwards.


----------



## uts

XLT_66 said:


> Anyone know where one could buy a GM1600 grass catcher? Or at least have a ballpark idea of how much one would cost?


Apart from the usual Ebay sellers search for cutting greens llc in NJ or the following. There was one more il try finding them



Edit: found these


----------



## mowww

@Redtwin Have you tried adjusting the drum drive belt tension? At first glance, I didn't realize it was easily adjustable.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/979160/Toro-Greenmaster-1000.html?page=35


----------



## Redtwin

@XLT_66 and @uts Thanks for the information on grass catchers. I just bought one from Devin for my Flex 21.


----------



## FedDawg555

Redtwin said:


> Reporting back after replacing the 92-9218 belts due to loss of power:
> That was clearly the problem. The mower now wants to pop wheelies and can now drive the reel through some thick turf. One problem that I am now having is that I am now unable to roll the mower backwards even with the brake and reel completely disengaged. Does anyone have any experience with this issue? I'm hoping that after running the machine for a couple of mows, it will loosen up enough that I can roll it backwards.


Belts are likely too tight which will impede free rolling.

Manual shows they need to be around 4-5 lbs with 1/4 inch deflection at center point. It's very easy to overtighten these belts.

I use this belt tension gauge which measures down to the low 4-5 lb range pulse the O ring moves up to 1/4inch.
https://backwaterperformance.com/products/belt-tension-gauge


----------



## Redtwin

Update: after running it for a few minutes it is working fine now. I think the belt was cold and had some memory to it. Once it got warmed up it worked as it should and I can now back the mower easily. I didn't realize how much power I was losing with the old belts. I'm surprised it was cutting at all.


----------



## falainwest

I just purchased a 2016 GM1600 with about 500hrs. Can any body come up with a spare parts list that they highly recommend me to purchase and store at home incase there is an urgent need for part replacement. Thanks


----------



## FedDawg555

falainwest said:


> I just purchased a 2016 GM1600 with about 500hrs. Can any body come up with a spare parts list that they highly recommend me to purchase and store at home incase there is an urgent need for part replacement. Thanks


2 Drum Drive Belts and 1 reel drive Belt.


----------



## Kicker

Bedknife, grease zerks, rivnuts, and maybe throttle/clutch cable.


----------



## Jack2012

Can someone explain differences between Flex 21/2100/2120 please?


----------



## Theycallmemrr

uts said:


> XLT_66 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know where one could buy a GM1600 grass catcher? Or at least have a ballpark idea of how much one would cost?
> 
> 
> 
> Apart from the usual Ebay sellers search for cutting greens llc in NJ or the following. There was one more il try finding them
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: found these
Click to expand...

I found them last week and just purchased from them yesterday. It was about $106 including shipping. I was about to post about them but glad someone beat me to it.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

Theycallmemrr said:


> Phxphenom said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would not get a new carb. Remove old one once you remove air filter cover. Clean the jets. There is a jet on top of the carb that you can remove with a slotted screwdriver. That little jet has hole that is likely plugged. Use a very thin piece of wire to poke through it.
> 
> By the way, I know this sounds stupid but is the on/off switch staying on the on position?
> 
> My two cents anyways,
> Marc
> 
> 
> 
> It stayed on the on position while cranking. I was thinking it could possibly be a bad switch. I need to find my multimeter and start testing the electrical components this weekend.
Click to expand...

So I changed the spark plug and ran some sea foam. The pull start cord broke on me from trying to start it several times and the spring was weak. The cord would only pull out a quarter of what it should. Replaced the pull start assembly and on the first pull it started. I am impressed for a machine that is 25 years old to run so well. The only thing that hurts is how expensive parts are compared to the Honda GX160 in my California Trimmer which is of similar vintage.


----------



## cwrx82

Jack2012 said:


> Can someone explain differences between Flex 21/2100/2120 please?


The 21 would be the eldest and the 2120 is the newer of the three listed.


----------



## Jack2012

cwrx82 said:


> Jack2012 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone explain differences between Flex 21/2100/2120 please?
> 
> 
> 
> The 21 would be the eldest and the 2120 is the newer of the three listed.
Click to expand...

Thanks


----------



## BHopper

cutigers08 said:


> Redtwin said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cutigers08 said:
> 
> 
> 
> They are to prevent hard cut lines on uneven turf
> 
> 
> 
> Ohhhhh... I might need to find some of those!
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Does anyone have any additional information or experience on these roller extension / anti scalping aids? I just purchased a 1600 and wondering how much they help and others thoughts on them.


----------



## Swampfox

What year Toro Greensmaster Flex 2100 is this?


----------



## FATC1TY

Swampfox said:


> What year Toro Greensmaster Flex 2100 is this?


2013 model year


----------



## Swampfox

Fat city, thank you.
Can you tell me how you know this?


----------



## Swampfox

FATC1TY said:


> Swampfox said:
> 
> 
> 
> 1617068724[/url] user_id=5813]
> What year Toro Greensmaster Flex 2100 is this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2013 Model year
> Fat city, thank you.
> Can you tell me how you know this?
Click to expand...


----------



## FedDawg555

@Ware @Greendoc or any other Toro GM owner that may know:

So last season about July I started noticing when I cut with the GM1600 about 1/4 or 1/2 way into a cut I would start leaving a 1-2" strip of uncut grass on the right side even with slight overlap. Prior to every mow I check reel to bedknife, adjust to cut paper, verify HOC. I start off mowing and everything is fine no line and even mowing but as I get further into the mow all of a sudden I start getting this uncut line. I stop recheck everything and notice I'm not cutting paper on the last few inches on the left side as your facing bedknife which is right while mowing. I remake reel to bedknife and confirm cutting paper start mowing and all is well but a little while later the line of uncut grass reappears. So I just deal with it till fall as I know it's going in to Jerry Pate in fall for full service. We replace reel, new bearing, square drum, grind bedknife we do it all.

So now fast forward to today. First real cut of season, grass is 95% green, scalped in spring so it's not long, maybe .55 inch. Easy mow right! So I do all my checks everything is dialed in perfect and start mowing.

Everything looks great and even cut both sides. About 10 passes in, this damn line of uncut grass starts appearing again. I stop and recheck and the exact same area on the left side of bedknife is not cutting paper.
My question is could it be something as simple as the Star adjuster and spring for the left side is not holding the reel to bedknife adjustment and is allowing a gap to form as I mow? I've never heard of this but I'm at my witts end. Everything is new on the cutting head. Could it be this adjuster or is there something else that could be causing unit to loose real to bedknife on this exact same place every time I mow? Thoughts.

Here's current setup:
HOC .60"
High Cut Bed-knife which is less than a season old, but it's freshly sharpened with reel change.
New Toro EdgeMax Reel
All new bearing.
Clip Kit installed
Drum and Front Roller Squared to Reel and Leveled on Bench Plate.


----------



## Togo

Swampfox said:


> Fat city, thank you.
> Can you tell me how you know this?


I believe 3 equals 2010-2019 and 13 means 13 so 313=2013.

311=2011
312=2012
210=2001
220=2002

Toro Lookup


----------



## Togo

FedDawg555 said:


> @Ware @Greendoc or any other Toro GM owner that may know:
> 
> So last season about July I started noticing when I cut with the GM1600 about 1/4 or 1/2 way into a cut I would start leaving a 1-2" strip of uncut grass on the right side even with slight overlap. Prior to every mow I check reel to bedknife, adjust to cut paper, verify HOC. I start off mowing and everything is fine no line and even mowing but as I get further into the mow all of a sudden I start getting this uncut line. I stop recheck everything and notice I'm not cutting paper on the last few inches on the left side as your facing bedknife which is right while mowing. I remake reel to bedknife and confirm cutting paper start mowing and all is well but a little while later the line of uncut grass reappears. So I just deal with it till fall as I know it's going in to Jerry Pate in fall for full service. We replace reel, new bearing, square drum, grind bedknife we do it all.
> 
> So now fast forward to today. First real cut of season, grass is 95% green, scalped in spring so it's not long, maybe .55 inch. Easy mow right! So I do all my checks everything is dialed in perfect and start mowing.
> 
> Everything looks great and even cut both sides. About 10 passes in, this damn line of uncut grass starts appearing again. I stop and recheck and the exact same area on the left side of bedknife is not cutting paper.
> My question is could it be something as simple as the Star adjuster and spring for the left side is not holding the reel to bedknife adjustment and is allowing a gap to form as I mow? I've never heard of this but I'm at my witts end. Everything is new on the cutting head. Could it be this adjuster or is there something else that could be causing unit to loose real to bedknife on this exact same place every time I mow? Thoughts.
> 
> Here's current setup:
> HOC .60"
> High Cut Bed-knife which is less than a season old, but it's freshly sharpened with reel change.
> New Toro EdgeMax Reel
> All new bearing.
> Clip Kit installed
> Drum and Front Roller Squared to Reel and Leveled on Bench Plate.


Have you tried marking the setting you're on when you start cutting and reel to bed knife is correct and it's cutting and then checking again once the strip starts appearing to see if the setting changed at all?


----------



## FedDawg555

Togo said:


> FedDawg555 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Ware @Greendoc or any other Toro GM owner that may know:
> 
> So last season about July I started noticing when I cut with the GM1600 about 1/4 or 1/2 way into a cut I would start leaving a 1-2" strip of uncut grass on the right side even with slight overlap. Prior to every mow I check reel to bedknife, adjust to cut paper, verify HOC. I start off mowing and everything is fine no line and even mowing but as I get further into the mow all of a sudden I start getting this uncut line. I stop recheck everything and notice I'm not cutting paper on the last few inches on the left side as your facing bedknife which is right while mowing. I remake reel to bedknife and confirm cutting paper start mowing and all is well but a little while later the line of uncut grass reappears. So I just deal with it till fall as I know it's going in to Jerry Pate in fall for full service. We replace reel, new bearing, square drum, grind bedknife we do it all.
> 
> So now fast forward to today. First real cut of season, grass is 95% green, scalped in spring so it's not long, maybe .55 inch. Easy mow right! So I do all my checks everything is dialed in perfect and start mowing.
> 
> Everything looks great and even cut both sides. About 10 passes in, this damn line of uncut grass starts appearing again. I stop and recheck and the exact same area on the left side of bedknife is not cutting paper.
> My question is could it be something as simple as the Star adjuster and spring for the left side is not holding the reel to bedknife adjustment and is allowing a gap to form as I mow? I've never heard of this but I'm at my witts end. Everything is new on the cutting head. Could it be this adjuster or is there something else that could be causing unit to loose real to bedknife on this exact same place every time I mow? Thoughts.
> 
> Here's current setup:
> HOC .60"
> High Cut Bed-knife which is less than a season old, but it's freshly sharpened with reel change.
> New Toro EdgeMax Reel
> All new bearing.
> Clip Kit installed
> Drum and Front Roller Squared to Reel and Leveled on Bench Plate.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried marking the setting you're on when you start cutting and reel to bed knife is correct and it's cutting and then checking again once the strip starts appearing to see if the setting changed at all?
Click to expand...

I have not marked it on the star adjuster only because they seem fairly solid not loose at all. I'm not familiar enough how that whole adjuster system working down the components actually move the bedknife and where a weak point in the system that could allow the adjustment to change. This is even if that's the issue but since it's the only component left that hasn't been replaced I'm guessing. However, I will mark it next time to see if it moves after adjustment. Totally throwing mud at a wall right now.


----------



## Togo

@FedDawg555 yeah idk how easily it could move on that adjuster but at least you would know that if it's an adjustment issue it's happening past that point in the system if there is no movement in that.


----------



## FATC1TY

I'd mark it and check for movement.

Is the bolt/spring combo on it in good shape and not backing off? If that backs off, the star adjustment won't move but the bedknife will.


----------



## FedDawg555

FATC1TY said:


> I'd mark it and check for movement.
> 
> Is the bolt/spring combo on it in good shape and not backing off? If that backs off, the star adjustment won't move but the bedknife will.


The bolt/spring seem to be in good shape however I'm not sure if it's holding adjustment while I mow. I guess I could mark the star, spring, and bolt to see if anything moves. It may be hard though because we're talking maybe .0007 or 1 to 2 clicks from cutting paper to not cutting paper.


----------



## FedDawg555

Spoke with Jerry Pate GM mechanic and based on everything he believes the spring in the adjuster is simply worn to just allow enough movement in the bedbar. He said he's seen this before in other units. He's sending me some new springs.

I'm assuming it's as simple as backing off the nut to release the spring tension and then put new spring on, tighten to compress it fully and back off a half turn. Anyone have any experience with these or lessons learned since it is an adjustment point under tension?

Fig 48 is my adjuster and manual doesn't have much info on this.


----------



## FATC1TY

Back off the bed bar adjustment a good bit, you'll be able to remove the spring tension nut and get it swapped on the spring.

Just be sure to get it all adjusted back pretty even, and then check your HOC.


----------



## todmanning99

Apologies if this is not the right place for my question. I'm new to this forum and am finding this all very useful.

I recently picked up a 2000 GM 1000 from my local Toro dealer. I had a new 8 blade reel and bed knife installed.

So far I am loving this machine and it's a huge upgrade from my Caltrimmer.

Anyway, each time I've used it (which is 4 times now) I've checked the reel to bed knife contact and the 2 ends have been cutting paper but not the middle. So each time I've tightened it a little and off I go.

As I am new to this I would say it seems a little on the noisy side so I'm worried I have the bed knife too tight but this is the only way to get it close enough to cut paper in the middle.

I also don't think I should have to adjust it every time since my yard is only 2500 sq ft.

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks so much.


----------



## The_iHenry

How to remove this part from the groomer? 
19mm deep socket, reverse thread🤦🏾‍♂️

I needed to replace the bearings and couldn't take it off :/


----------



## PGrenauer

dfw_pilot said:


> It seems like every Spring, my Toro mowers run really rough, or worse, SURges ALL the TIme as IT strUGLES for FUel.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3t7IR8OokA​
> There are a few things that will prevent and solve this problem. The first is to not get a clogged carb in the first place. Always use fuel stabilizers like Sta-Bil or SeaFoam to prevent the fuel from gumming things up. Always drain the fuel at the end of the season. Toro makes this easy with a set screw on the bottom of the carb that will drain fuel completely out of the tank and carb. A little Sta-bil in the tank and carb after it is empty never hurts either.
> 
> Places like Jack's Small Engines will have all the parts you need to replace fuel line filters, carb gaskets, and lots of other parts. Just check your engine model number and use it to look up the right parts for your specific engine.
> 
> Finally, the surging may still occur, as it did to me, even after new filters and draining the old fuel last fall. It takes just a few seconds to fix if your wife (or you - not judging) has a small sewing needle. The trouble lies with my favorite part, the Jet Pilot, pictured here:
> 
> 
> 
> and:
> 
> 
> 
> Use a flat head to unscrew it, and clean it very well in gasoline or carb cleaner. Take the needle and clear out the tiny hole in the _bottom_ of the Jet Pilot. Toro made that hole way too small and it clogs easily. If you can put your lips on it and blow air out of it, it should be clean enough. That has solved a lot of trouble I've had with my GM1000s.


Regarding the Jet Pilot and cleaning it out with a needle. Should the needle be able to pass right threw the jet pilot? Or is there a tiny screen or filter in the pilot? My needle does not pass threw. Thank you for the help..!!


----------



## Swampfox

Been looking for a GM 1600 in my area for a long time. Came across a 2016 that was a demo at a turf equipment shop that has 5.5 hours on it. It has an eight blade reel. Basically brand new. They are asking $4500 for it. Includes wheels, basket and Accugage. I feel like this is a fair....if not amazing price. What say you? Wife is pissed. I feel like I am getting a brand new real mower for an 8k-10k discount.
** It has not been used since 2018. Sat in a garage until now.**


----------



## FATC1TY

If you don't buy it, I will! I already have a GM1600 but I would buy that in a heartbeat considering it's nearly new.


----------



## FedDawg555

Swampfox said:


> Been looking for a GM 1600 in my area for a long time. Came across a 2016 that was a demo at a turf equipment shop that has 5.5 hours on it. It has an eight blade reel. Basically brand new. They are asking $4500 for it. Includes wheels, basket and Accugage. I feel like this is a fair....if not amazing price. What say you? Wife is pissed. I feel like I am getting a brand new real mower for an 8k-10k discount.
> ** It has not been used since 2018. Sat in a garage until now.**


Considering that unit when it has 500 hours and if you maintain it well, it will still be worth 2500-3000 it is a steal at 4500. Buy it and look at it as an investment considering a homeowner may put 30-40 hours or less a year on it.


----------



## Swampfox

@FATCITY, @FedDawg555,
Thanks for the responses. Your responses confirmed my suspicions. I've scraped together the money and have bought the mower. Buy once , cry once.


----------



## FATC1TY

Swampfox said:


> @FATCITY, @FedDawg555,
> Thanks for the responses. Your responses confirmed my suspicions. I've scraped together the money and have bought the mower. Buy once , cry once.


Awesome, you made a really sound purchase, if anything you are likely to not lose on that deal.

Enjoy the mower, they are in my biased opinion some of the best on the market.


----------



## TheSwede

Any idea how to get the "wear sleeves" off the reel axles? I've managed to disassemble the cutting unit but now I have a bit of a problem with the sleeves that I planned to reuse for the new 8-blade reel I ordered from R&R. I think I kind of tried every trick in the book -penetration oil, borderline excessive force, torch in combination with borderline excessive force etc. but it's like they've been friggin' welded to the reel axles! Should I just take the plunge and order new ones or do you have any other ideas?


----------



## htnguyen7

TheSwede said:


> Any idea how to get the "wear sleeves" off the reel axles? I've managed to disassemble the cutting unit but now I have a bit of a problem with the sleeves that I planned to reuse for the new 8-blade reel I ordered from R&R. I think I kind of tried every trick in the book -penetration oil, borderline excessive force, torch in combination with borderline excessive force etc. but it's like they've been friggin' welded to the reel axles! Should I just take the plunge and order new ones or do you have any other ideas?


I'm not sure, but what about using a 3-prong bearing puller?


----------



## FATC1TY

TheSwede said:


> Any idea how to get the "wear sleeves" off the reel axles? I've managed to disassemble the cutting unit but now I have a bit of a problem with the sleeves that I planned to reuse for the new 8-blade reel I ordered from R&R. I think I kind of tried every trick in the book -penetration oil, borderline excessive force, torch in combination with borderline excessive force etc. but it's like they've been friggin' welded to the reel axles! Should I just take the plunge and order new ones or do you have any other ideas?


I don't remember having to take any of those off when I replaced my reel.... so maybe welded ??


----------



## TheSwede

Thanks for the input @htnguyen7 , and @FATC1TY. After another evening trying to get the sleeves off I just pulled the trigger on replacements. There is no way that I will be able to get the sleeves of without damaging them. I'm probably $800 vested in this rebuild already, so another $50 is not a big deal. Anyway, I'm not doing the rebuild because the mower needs it, I'm doing the rebuild because it is fun, It´s decompression and distraction from a stresful job. and what not. Sleeves and a bunch of other parts are on its way. Yay!


----------



## htnguyen7

TheSwede said:


> Thanks for the input @htnguyen7 , and @FATC1TY. After another evening trying to get the sleeves off I just pulled the trigger on replacements. There is no way that I will be able to get the sleeves of without damaging them. I'm probably $800 vested in this rebuild already, so another $50 is not a big deal. Anyway, I'm not doing the rebuild because the mower needs it, I'm doing the rebuild because it is fun, It´s decompression and distraction from a stresful job. and what not. Sleeves and a bunch of other parts are on its way. Yay!


Do you mind if I ask you which model is your GM? I also plan on replacing the reel and bed knife on my GM1600 this fall for "fun" as well. I bought my from Greg in Canada and it was very well maintained I could tell. There's still a lot life left on the bed knife but I'm planning. on switching to an Edge Series 8 blade reel since I enjoy the look of the lawn sub 0.5 in.

Not gonna lie, I'm a little nervous on this project though. If there's any video tutorial out there, please send it my way.


----------



## TheSwede

htnguyen7 said:


> TheSwede said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the input @htnguyen7 , and @FATC1TY. After another evening trying to get the sleeves off I just pulled the trigger on replacements. There is no way that I will be able to get the sleeves of without damaging them. I'm probably $800 vested in this rebuild already, so another $50 is not a big deal. Anyway, I'm not doing the rebuild because the mower needs it, I'm doing the rebuild because it is fun, It´s decompression and distraction from a stresful job. and what not. Sleeves and a bunch of other parts are on its way. Yay!
> 
> 
> 
> Do you mind if I ask you which model is your GM? I also plan on replacing the reel and bed knife on my GM1600 this fall for "fun" as well. I bought my from Greg in Canada and it was very well maintained I could tell. There's still a lot life left on the bed knife but I'm planning. on switching to an Edge Series 8 blade reel since I enjoy the look of the lawn sub 0.5 in.
> 
> Not gonna lie, I'm a little nervous on this project though. If there's any video tutorial out there, please send it my way.
Click to expand...

It's a Flex21 from 2007. Once you start pulling it apart you might find yourself in a slippery slope of fixes and upgrades .

I bought mine unseen from an online auction site. The reel was pretty much completely worn out and the gearbox leaked oil but I got it pretty much for free so I can't complain, really. Tore the gearbox apart and replaced the seals. Noticed one of the frame mounted drive shaft bearings had kind of seized a bit which had worn down the short drive shaft so the shaft and the bearing had to be replaced.

When it comes to the cutting unit, last season I could cut at a 3/4" HOC due to the worn down reel (max HOC on a standard Flex21 is around 1/2"). Since I am not sure I will be able to maintain 1/2" HOC this season I ordered all the parts to remove the groomer assy and mount a high HOC kit (shoutout to @Reel Low Dad for the epic Youtube-clip on how to convert from groomer to high HOC kit!).

After pulling apart the cutting unit to replace the reel and the bedknife, I realized that the seals around the reel bearings had seen better days so I ordered a set of those, and while I was at it I ordered new bushings for the cutting unit attachment to the Flex21 drive unit. Some posts and pics in my 2021 lawn journal.


----------



## Reel Low Dad

If anyone with my vintage flex ever needs help. Shoot me a PM here or via socials. I will happily hop on a call with you or chat.


----------



## TTown85

Have an opportunity to buy this for $600. It's a 1998 GM1000. It is missing the hand brake. This will be my first reel mower, from the limited information available does this warrant further interest? What should I look for if I go and see it tomorrow. The price seems reasonable based on my research, but a 23-year old mower kind of worries me.

I appreciate the help and look forward to joining the Reel Low crew!


----------



## FATC1TY

TTown85 said:


> Have an opportunity to buy this for $600. It's a 1998 GM1000. It is missing the hand brake. This will be my first reel mower, from the limited information available does this warrant further interest? What should I look for if I go and see it tomorrow. The price seems reasonable based on my research, but a 23-year old mower kind of worries me.
> 
> I appreciate the help and look forward to joining the Reel Low crew!


It's is an older model. I would look to ensure one, it starts. Beyond that, look at the reel. Look for a relief grind on it, perhaps spin it with your fingers and look for issues like nicks in the reel, look to see if it's out of round if you can. Check the bedknife to see if it's in good shape, check how worn it is in relation to how deep the reel is set into it from the side.

Once cranked, put it in gear without the reel engaged and see if it tracks straight, or any issues with the drum. Engage the reel and mow if you can, it put it on the kickstand, engage, and see if anything binds, sounds rough, etc.

I wouldn't fret about a parking brake, I would look at the drum, reel and roller to ensure they all move free and in decent shape. I'd look at the deflector under the carb and see if the paint is gone. That days it's leaking and had for a while.

Look in the gas tank for rust if you can use a flashlight. Look for any spots of leaning fluids or grease... or lack of.

That's an older model, but it's got the basket, the transport wheels, etc. 600 isn't a huge steal, but it's not offensive in this market.


----------



## TTown85

@FATC1TY That was exactly the response I needed! Thank you for a thorough and detailed response.


----------



## FenixTxM3

TTown85 said:


> Have an opportunity to buy this for $600. It's a 1998 GM1000. It is missing the hand brake. This will be my first reel mower, from the limited information available does this warrant further interest? What should I look for if I go and see it tomorrow. The price seems reasonable based on my research, but a 23-year old mower kind of worries me.
> 
> I appreciate the help and look forward to joining the Reel Low crew!


That looks like a pretty good deal. I paid way more than that for one a couple of years ago. Basket, roller and wheels alone are worth about $300.


----------



## N LA Hacker

I couldn't find any information doing a brief search, is it normal for the reel drive shaft on the flex units to vibrate a good bit? Is there a way to align or balance them?


----------



## cutigers08

N LA Hacker said:


> I couldn't find any information doing a brief search, is it normal for the reel drive shaft on the flex units to vibrate a good bit? Is there a way to align or balance them?


I am brand new to the Flex platform but the nature of that linkage will provide some vibration. I did not notice anything excessive on mine during the first mow but I will take a look next time out.


----------



## TheSwede

TheSwede said:


> Any idea how to get the "wear sleeves" off the reel axles? I've managed to disassemble the cutting unit but now I have a bit of a problem with the sleeves that I planned to reuse for the new 8-blade reel I ordered from R&R. I think I kind of tried every trick in the book -penetration oil, borderline excessive force, torch in combination with borderline excessive force etc. but it's like they've been friggin' welded to the reel axles! Should I just take the plunge and order new ones or do you have any other ideas?


To answer my own question: You don't have to. They're allready fitted on the replacement reel. Doh!  

Note to self: Always check the new part to see what is actually already fitted to it before following the dissasembly instruction in the service manual...

Anyways, assembly went pretty smooth. It took me about 3,5 hours to pull out the side plate bearings and seals, clean them up and check them, pack them with grease, put them all together (with new seals), mount the new reel and bedbar w. new bedknife, mount high HOC kit and get the cutting unit back on the mower.

The most confusing part of the assembly was that I removed the groomer assy and I had to reuse some nuts and bolts from the groomer, but also a few new ones I ordered, so it took me a while to figure it all out. Maybe the beer I enyoyed while assembling it had something to do with it beeing a bit more confusing than it needed. I don't know. 

Side plates disassembled and cleaned up:


Sideplates assembled, bearings packed and new seals mounted:


Wear sleves allready on replacement reel, and soothing beer opened:


Bedknife about to be mounted:


Bedknife and reel mounted:


Everyting assembled including new bushings for the frame link assy:


Cutting unit back on the mower. Fingers crossed I havn't messed up  :


----------



## htnguyen7

Wow that looks nice and clean. Do you have to take it somewhere to get the reel grinded (relief), or do you plan on just lapping it?


----------



## N LA Hacker

N LA Hacker said:


> I couldn't find any information doing a brief search, is it normal for the reel drive shaft on the flex units to vibrate a good bit? Is there a way to align or balance them?


I ashamed to admit that I figured out what the problem was....


----------



## todmanning99

Hey guys- might be a dumb question but I'm still getting used to my ~2000 GM1000. When the reel is engaged (via the drive lever) and I have disengaged the traction drive, should I be able to (somewhat) easily pull the mower backwards? 
Currently I have to 'drag' it backwards. That is: the rear drum will not rotate in reverse unless I disengage the reel drive lever.
I find that I get to the end of a pass and want to reposition the mower, sometimes requiring me to pull it backwards but it's like a tug of war.

Thanks!


----------



## FATC1TY

todmanning99 said:


> Hey guys- might be a dumb question but I'm still getting used to my ~2000 GM1000. When the reel is engaged (via the drive lever) and I have disengaged the traction drive, should I be able to (somewhat) easily pull the mower backwards?
> Currently I have to 'drag' it backwards. That is: the rear drum will not rotate in reverse unless I disengage the reel drive lever.
> I find that I get to the end of a pass and want to reposition the mower, sometimes requiring me to pull it backwards but it's like a tug of war.
> 
> Thanks!


It's working correctly, but also make sure the parking brake isn't engaged as well.

You'll just have to get use to driving it around, and/or using your foot to kick the engage in and out on the reel.

Eventually you'll learn the turn and flip method for the cut, and won't line up as much, considering you'll do a perimeter clean up pass anyways, you can cut the turning down a little. Which will end up tearing up your turf in those areas.


----------



## todmanning99

@Fatcity- thank you for this- very helpful!


----------



## TheSwede

htnguyen7 said:


> Wow that looks nice and clean. Do you have to take it somewhere to get the reel grinded (relief), or do you plan on just lapping it?


Thanks! Plan to just do back lapping. If, for some reason, I'm not satisfied with the result I have a shop nearby that can spin and relief it for me (but they're not exactly cheap, so I'll take my chances with the backlapping first).


----------



## htnguyen7

I think for the most part you will be satisfied with just backlapping. The main reasons for a relief grind is to prevent premature wear and decrease fuel consumption. But if it costs too much, I would just skip it as I know a lot of golf courses just do spin grind only.


----------



## davegravy

Hey all, I'm just waiting on delivery of my flex 21 (first greens mower) and had a thought.

What is the maximum step size you can realistically get over with the transport wheels on?

I've seen some people build ramps to get over curbs. I have a small step between my front and back yard, and another between my garage and front lawn. Less than curb height... maybe 4 or 5"

Will I be ok or should I start planning to build ramps?


----------



## Sinclair

@davegravy if you don't have any back issues, you can treat the machine like a very big and very heavy dolly.

Push down on the handle to raise the cutting head off the ground, and pull towards you as you go over the step.

4" is probably the limit at which I'd be comfortable doing this. (I won't take the machine over my street curb, for example)

You're going to want your transport axles off while you're mowing too. I'd recommend taking them off and being generous with some lithium grease so that regular removal is easy.

With the axles, one is left handed thread. Just remember that to remove the axles, turn them in the direction of forward travel, or if you're a weirdo like me, remind yourself that it is the ground that tightens the axles while you mow.

Welcome to the family! You're going to love it!


----------



## FedDawg555

FedDawg555 said:


> FedDawg555 said:
> 
> 
> 
> GM 1000/1600 Belt Covers-Maintenance
> Off season is a great time to pull those covers and clean out the debris and touch up paint the bottoms. The bottoms get scrapped pretty bad and will become a rust hole if not maintained.
> 
> So it got me thinking while I touched up the paint, if anyone has thought of some type of heavier duty coating to put on the bottoms. I'm thinking like a spray on bed liner type coating, adhesive rubber strip, something better than just painted metal. Any ideas or thoughts? Bored winter and mind is working.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I decided to to try the Raptor Fire Red Spray on Bedliner. I masked off the covers to just do the bottoms and made sure not to spray the very edge where the gasket goes not knowing how that bedliner would build up affects the tight fitting gasket.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I then cleaned the metal area to be Raptor with a degreaser and used their aerosol adhesion enhancer 2 coats. Let that dry an hour.
> 
> The Raptor is already colored red which is nice the shade is close but you can tell it's off a little. Once you activate the can you have 60 minutes to finish or the chemical hardening agent makes it useless.
> 
> You have to spray this stuff a minimum of 2-3 feet away as it builds up quickly. Light coats and then wait 20 minutes to flash off and then apply another coat. I did total of three coats.
> 
> Wait about 45 minutes and then unmask the area producing good clean lines.
> 
> The can says after 24 hours you can lightly sand it and apply a topcoat of paint but since I just did the bottoms I was happy. If I had done the the whole covers I would probably top coat with the Toro Red to match.
> 
> Can says coating is fully cured in 3 days. I'll let y'all know how hard it gets but honestly until I start mowing won't know how it holds up. My thought is anything is harder than just plain painted metal especially on the bottoms of the covers.
Click to expand...

Wanted to provide an update on the cover Bedliner Raptor coat project. I've gotten about 12 mows in using them and so far not even a rub mark on the bottoms of the covers. The Bedliner is holding up very well.


----------



## gooodawgs

Question about the axel and transport tires. When the engine is on and motor engaged the machine propels great. When its off and I put the wheels on to take it back to the garage it is almost impossible to push by itself. Could the axels just be locked up? With the wheels off and the kickstand engaged, i have to use all my strength to twist the axel and have the drum roll a bit.

I dont want to have the engine on just to walk it out of the garage - any ideas? Picture below is what will not turn


----------



## FedDawg555

gooodawgs said:


> Question about the axel and transport tires. When the engine is on and motor engaged the machine propels great. When its off and I put the wheels on to take it back to the garage it is almost impossible to push by itself. Could the axels just be locked up? With the wheels off and the kickstand engaged, i have to use all my strength to twist the axel and have the drum roll a bit.
> 
> I dont want to have the engine on just to walk it out of the garage - any ideas? Picture below is what will not turn


I would check to see if your drum drive belts are too tight. Specs call for 4.5 to 5.5 lbs with 1/4 inch deflection at the center of belt. The idler pulley is very easy to over adjust causing the belt to be way too tight which increases resistance. The repair manual has the procedure in it.


----------



## gooodawgs

Thanks @FedDawg555 I'll check that out. So I'm assuming these axels should be able to turn pretty freely just with your hand? Its my 1st day with the mower - still have a lot to learn!


----------



## FedDawg555

gooodawgs said:


> Thanks @FedDawg555 I'll check that out. So I'm assuming these axels should be able to turn pretty freely just with your hand? Its my 1st day with the mower - still have a lot to learn!


Not really super easy but it should be able to roll no problem on the tires for transport. Also make sure your reel engagement lever is not on.


----------



## gooodawgs

I was told to only shut down the mower by closing the Fuel-Shutoff Valve when I'm done mowing. Then just let it idle until it stops and this is supposed to be good for the carb. Is this common practice??


----------



## jsams22

gooodawgs said:


> I was told to only shut down the mower by closing the Fuel-Shutoff Valve when I'm done mowing. Then just let it idle until it stops and this is supposed to be good for the carb. Is this common practice??


This is not the only way to do this.

The main reason you would want to do this is if you are about to store the mower for an extended period of time before you use it next. The carburetor has a bowl on it, like a cereal bowl, that is like a mini gas reservoir in your carb that holds the fuel RIGHT before it goes into the engine. When the engine stops normally, fuel sits in this bowl until it is turned back on. If you just cut the mower off "normally" and dont use the mower for an extended time, the fuel in this bowl will go bad and potentially after a long period start to turn into a jelly (very long time). Then next time you go to start it, you will have bad fuel going through your carb and into engine. Bad news.
If you cut the fuel valve off, the engine will drain the full bowl of all of the gas and then turn off by itself. Then there will be almost no fuel left in the bowl to go bad and clog up your carb.

TLR: You can use the "fuel cut off" method, but kinda overkill if you are using it frequently. I would only recommend this method if you are storing the mower for an extended period of time.


----------



## Sinclair

gooodawgs said:


> I was told to only shut down the mower by closing the Fuel-Shutoff Valve when I'm done mowing. Then just let it idle until it stops and this is supposed to be good for the carb. Is this common practice??


Kawasaki / Subaru purposefully put an ignition switch on the machine that is much more accessible than the fuel valve.

Would seem silly for the manufacturer to promote the wrong way to turn off the engine.


----------



## FATC1TY

FedDawg555 said:


> gooodawgs said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks @FedDawg555 I'll check that out. So I'm assuming these axels should be able to turn pretty freely just with your hand? Its my 1st day with the mower - still have a lot to learn!
> 
> 
> 
> Not really super easy but it should be able to roll no problem on the tires for transport. Also make sure your reel engagement lever is not on.
Click to expand...

The reel engagement lever on will cause all kinds of "wtf" moments when it's not running snd you are trying to move the mower. I bet everyone has had those moments.


----------



## FATC1TY

gooodawgs said:


> I was told to only shut down the mower by closing the Fuel-Shutoff Valve when I'm done mowing. Then just let it idle until it stops and this is supposed to be good for the carb. Is this common practice??


I can positively say I've never touched the fuel shutoff before. Just use the on/off switch.

Maybe in the fall when mower won't be used, but I also pretty much run it out of fuel too, including the tank.


----------



## NeVs

FATC1TY said:


> gooodawgs said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was told to only shut down the mower by closing the Fuel-Shutoff Valve when I'm done mowing. Then just let it idle until it stops and this is supposed to be good for the carb. Is this common practice??
> 
> 
> 
> I can positively say I've never touched the fuel shutoff before. Just use the on/off switch.
> 
> Maybe in the fall when mower won't be used, but I also pretty much run it out of fuel too, including the tank.
Click to expand...

Doesn't draining the tank and fuel line cause the fuel lines to corrode faster?


----------



## FedDawg555

NeVs said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gooodawgs said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was told to only shut down the mower by closing the Fuel-Shutoff Valve when I'm done mowing. Then just let it idle until it stops and this is supposed to be good for the carb. Is this common practice??
> 
> 
> 
> I can positively say I've never touched the fuel shutoff before. Just use the on/off switch.
> 
> Maybe in the fall when mower won't be used, but I also pretty much run it out of fuel too, including the tank.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Doesn't draining the tank and fuel line cause the fuel lines to corrode faster?
Click to expand...

Ethanol free gas is your best friend for all small engines.


----------



## FATC1TY

NeVs said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gooodawgs said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was told to only shut down the mower by closing the Fuel-Shutoff Valve when I'm done mowing. Then just let it idle until it stops and this is supposed to be good for the carb. Is this common practice??
> 
> 
> 
> I can positively say I've never touched the fuel shutoff before. Just use the on/off switch.
> 
> Maybe in the fall when mower won't be used, but I also pretty much run it out of fuel too, including the tank.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Doesn't draining the tank and fuel line cause the fuel lines to corrode faster?
Click to expand...

Who knows... I use ethanol free gas, and I treat it with stabil. I also run stabil thru the last bit at the end of the season... I've had good luck thus far.

Leaving fuel in there seems like the more likely candidate for issues, but I have a short season of no mowing. Usually done in Nov, back at it early March.


----------



## NeVs

FATC1TY said:


> NeVs said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> I can positively say I've never touched the fuel shutoff before. Just use the on/off switch.
> 
> Maybe in the fall when mower won't be used, but I also pretty much run it out of fuel too, including the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> Doesn't draining the tank and fuel line cause the fuel lines to corrode faster?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Who knows... I use ethanol free gas, and I treat it with stabil. I also run stabil thru the last bit at the end of the season... I've had good luck thus far.
> 
> Leaving fuel in there seems like the more likely candidate for issues, but I have a short season of no mowing. Usually done in Nov, back at it early March.
Click to expand...

Ah, the running through stabil is it. I thought you were just draining it. I do the same thing. Storing it with ethanol free isn't terrible as long as the tank is full.


----------



## jsams22

Greensmaster Flex 1800 (Model - 04041): How do these spacers on the rear roller effect my overall HOC adjustment? Do they limit the max/min height? I found some verbiage regarding the spacers, but only mentioning the groomer. I have the HOC maxed out at 7/16, could not get that last 1/16 to achieve .500".

Background, got this from a golf course. Mower was set at .125" for daily greens mowing.


----------



## EricInGA

jsams22 said:


> Greensmaster Flex 1800 (Model - 04041): How do these spacers on the rear roller effect my overall HOC adjustment? Do they limit the max/min height? I found some verbiage regarding the spacers, but only mentioning the groomer. I have the HOC maxed out at 7/16, could not get that last 1/16 to achieve .500".
> 
> Background, got this from a golf course. Mower was set at .125" for daily greens mowing.


Hey buddy 👋 😆


----------



## EricInGA

jsams22 said:


> Greensmaster Flex 1800 (Model - 04041): How do these spacers on the rear roller effect my overall HOC adjustment? Do they limit the max/min height? I found some verbiage regarding the spacers, but only mentioning the groomer. I have the HOC maxed out at 7/16, could not get that last 1/16 to achieve .500".
> 
> Background, got this from a golf course. Mower was set at .125" for daily greens mowing.


Here's the rear roller adjustment


----------



## nnnnnate

This gas shut off thing is leaking gas. I've tried to find a replacement through the parts diagrams but haven't seen it or at least been able to recognize it in the pictures. Does anyone know what it's called and maybe a part number? Thanks.

Model is GM1000 4052 sn 2800000757.


----------



## davegravy

New flex owner here.

There's a high pitched whine when I engage the traction on my unit. Other than being a bit hard on the ears there's no other symptoms I've noticed.

Should I be worried? Is there something that needs to be lubricated?

It happens independent of if I engage the reel by the way.


----------



## Bmossin

nnnnnate said:


> This gas shut off thing is leaking gas. I've tried to find a replacement through the parts diagrams but haven't seen it or at least been able to recognize it in the pictures. Does anyone know what it's called and maybe a part number? Thanks.
> 
> Model is GM1000 4052 sn 2800000757.


https://www.ereplacementparts.com/tapasm-p-418534.html


----------



## htnguyen7

Is the reel engage lever/housing supposed to be greased? Mine was like this when I took off the reel belt cover for a clean up. Appreciate your answer.


----------



## davegravy

Hey everyone, I noticed I'm getting a fair bit of leaf blade tearing - my old scotts manual push mower is cutting leaf blades much more cleanly so I don't think it's just my OCD.

I need some advice regarding reel to bedknife adjustment. This is a new machine for me so I'm a bit of a beginner. 
I received the unit from @Logan200TCP's company where I understand the reel received a fresh grind - it had service notes saying the adjustment was backed off 5 clicks from where it should be, on each side (for safety during transport I think). I found each side needed to be tightened more than 5 a side to start cutting paper, in case that matters at all.

As I have it set, the reel cuts paper across the middle section of the reel but for the outsides of the reel it's hit or miss. Strangely, even grass that's cut by the middle of the reel is often torn. If I tighten the adjustment any further from where I have it, I can get the ends to cut paper, but then I start to hear noise when I engage the reel, which I understand to be a sign it's over-tightened - which can damage the reel.

How should I approach this if I want to optimize the cut quality?


----------



## FATC1TY

It's okay to hear a little noise, but I would tighten it where you have it, and then backlap it and see if it quiets down for you.


----------



## canadian lawn

Purchased this Greensmaster 1000 for $200. Runs and cuts well with some minor problems.

Will this grass catcher fit a Greensmaster 1000? https://www.ebay.ca/itm/124258856310?ul_noapp=true

Also, when I engage the clutch, I sometimes have to jerk the mower to move. I tightened the bolt that engages the V-belt and also changed the V-belt. What could be the problem?


----------



## ZachUA

Does anyone know the largest diameter size roller that is manufactured for a flex 21 mower? I've already added the high height of cut kit, but my roller is pretty slim, so I was hoping there's a larger diameter one on market that would give me another .25" height.


----------



## htnguyen7

canadian lawn said:


> Purchased this Greensmaster 1000 for $200. Runs and cuts well with some minor problems.
> 
> Will this grass catcher fit a Greensmaster 1000? https://www.ebay.ca/itm/124258856310?ul_noapp=true
> 
> Also, when I engage the clutch, I sometimes have to jerk the mower to move. I tightened the bolt that engages the V-belt and also changed the V-belt. What could be the problem?


You'll probably need to adjust the idler pulley on each side that turns the drums. The belt will need to be tighter, 4 to 5lb of force for 1/4 of displacement.


----------



## canadian lawn

I will try that out, thank you!



htnguyen7 said:


> canadian lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Purchased this Greensmaster 1000 for $200. Runs and cuts well with some minor problems.
> 
> Will this grass catcher fit a Greensmaster 1000? https://www.ebay.ca/itm/124258856310?ul_noapp=true
> 
> Also, when I engage the clutch, I sometimes have to jerk the mower to move. I tightened the bolt that engages the V-belt and also changed the V-belt. What could be the problem?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll probably need to adjust the idler pulley on each side that turns the drums. The belt will need to be tighter, 4 to 5lb of force for 1/4 of displacement.
Click to expand...


----------



## davegravy

FATC1TY said:


> It's okay to hear a little noise, but I would tighten it where you have it, and then backlap it and see if it quiets down for you.


Thanks. You agree I should be able to get a better cut than this yes?


----------



## FATC1TY

davegravy said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's okay to hear a little noise, but I would tighten it where you have it, and then backlap it and see if it quiets down for you.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. You agree I should be able to get a better cut than this yes?
Click to expand...

I see it's a cool season grass, so I'm definitely no pro.. ive never mowed something like that, but yes based on some of the grass blades I'd say you could clean the cut up a bit. Some look fresh, some look a little torn. I don't know if that's common or not.

What I would do, is add some mapping compounds like 120 grit, give each side a click in, and run it. It'll get quiet and and settle in. Then I'd toss in some 180 grit and run it. See if it'll cut paper across the edges. I check 4 spots on my GM1600, if it's good I'll rinse and mow.

If you collect your clippings like look at a handful and see what it looks like. You could be getting some after cut issues maybe?


----------



## gooodawgs

Is there a way to tighten the front lever that engages/disengages the reel? Obviously I push it up when I start mowing, but occasionally it falls down and the reel disengages and I have to kick it back up. Anyone else have this issue?


----------



## ZachUA

What is the max diameter roller made for a flex 21?


----------



## cleohioturf

davegravy said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's okay to hear a little noise, but I would tighten it where you have it, and then backlap it and see if it quiets down for you.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. You agree I should be able to get a better cut than this yes?
Click to expand...

How many blades on your reel?


----------



## davegravy

cleohioturf said:


> davegravy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's okay to hear a little noise, but I would tighten it where you have it, and then backlap it and see if it quiets down for you.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. You agree I should be able to get a better cut than this yes?
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How many blades on your reel?
Click to expand...

It's an 8 blade, and I'm cutting at 7/8"


----------



## ag_fishing

Is a surging engine and stalling out when engaging the drive gear a symptom of dirty carb? I've cleaned the fuel tank, new fuel filter, air filter, spark plug, and oil. The lawn mower seems to run fine if the choke is all the way in. Anything else it's rough running. I cleaned the carb jet, but guessing I have to completely clean the entire carb


----------



## FATC1TY

gooodawgs said:


> Is there a way to tighten the front lever that engages/disengages the reel? Obviously I push it up when I start mowing, but occasionally it falls down and the reel disengages and I have to kick it back up. Anyone else have this issue?


Someone else had this problem a while ago on here and I don't know if they managed to get it fixed or not?

I know there's nuts on the actuator under the cover, you could try tightening, or cleaning it up and maybe putting some lightweight loctite on if they are worn and rattling loose.


----------



## FATC1TY

ag_fishing said:


> Is a surging engine and stalling out when engaging the drive gear a symptom of dirty carb? I've cleaned the fuel tank, new fuel filter, air filter, spark plug, and oil. The lawn mower seems to run fine if the choke is all the way in. Anything else it's rough running. I cleaned the carb jet, but guessing I have to completely clean the entire carb


Sounds like carb issues to me. Could try running seafoam in it and soak and add some fresh fuel and let it just run for a while, but likely will need to clean the whole setup.

When the belts engage it's likely too much for the surging engine to stay running.


----------



## ag_fishing

FATC1TY said:


> ag_fishing said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is a surging engine and stalling out when engaging the drive gear a symptom of dirty carb? I've cleaned the fuel tank, new fuel filter, air filter, spark plug, and oil. The lawn mower seems to run fine if the choke is all the way in. Anything else it's rough running. I cleaned the carb jet, but guessing I have to completely clean the entire carb
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like carb issues to me. Could try running seafoam in it and soak and add some fresh fuel and let it just run for a while, but likely will need to clean the whole setup.
> 
> When the belts engage it's likely too much for the surging engine to stay running.
Click to expand...

I figured so, just wanted to check on here. I'm just going to remove and completely clean the carburetor. It needs it anyways.


----------



## todmanning99

My new (to me) year 2000 GM 1000 has a leak in the gas tank. It seems to be coming from the seam at the mid-point of the tank as it wasn't leaking before with a small amount of gas but I recently filled it 3/4 full and now I have an issue.

According to the parts schematic it looks like there isn't a gasket or anything at the seam and I also don't think this is coming form any of the 4 attachment bolts. the leak appears to be near the attachment bolt directly above the spark plug and I think you can see the gas on the top of the seam in this photo.

It's a very small amount but I can't leave it like this.

Any thoughts as to what I can do to resolve this?

If I need to replace any recommendations on where to buy, should I be trying to find a used one (fully recognizing it may be in even worse condition)?

Thank you!


----------



## Bmossin

todmanning99 said:


> My new (to me) year 2000 GM 1000 has a leak in the gas tank. It seems to be coming from the seam at the mid-point of the tank as it wasn't leaking before with a small amount of gas but I recently filled it 3/4 full and now I have an issue.
> 
> According to the parts schematic it looks like there isn't a gasket or anything at the seam and I also don't think this is coming form any of the 4 attachment bolts. the leak appears to be near the attachment bolt directly above the spark plug and I think you can see the gas on the top of the seam in this photo.
> 
> It's a very small amount but I can't leave it like this.
> 
> Any thoughts as to what I can do to resolve this?
> 
> If I need to replace any recommendations on where to buy, should I be trying to find a used one (fully recognizing it may be in even worse condition)?
> 
> Thank you!


Chris at General Turf should be able to hook you up. They also have an eBay store. 828-329-4546.

Could also try gas tank sealer, like red-kote.


----------



## todmanning99

Awesome- thank you @Bmossin


----------



## Duckman501

I have a gm1000 1998 model (04052) and am wanting to achieve a hoc in excess of 1 inch. Is there an easy way to accomplish this goal? I was hoping to find a toro part number for a high hoc kit that was compatible but everything I see is for a gm1600. Thanks folks.


----------



## cutigers08

Duckman501 said:


> I have a gm1000 1998 model (04052) and am wanting to achieve a hoc in excess of 1 inch. Is there an easy way to accomplish this goal? I was hoping to find a toro part number for a high hoc kit that was compatible but everything I see is for a gm1600. Thanks folks.


I don't believe there is any easy way or high HOC arms to accomplish this. These machines were not intended to cut anywhere near 1", never mind more. What blade reel do you have? If its 11 or 14 you will see some pretty significant issues with quality of cut at or about 1"


----------



## Sfurunner13

Has anyone changed the front roller on their GM 1000 to a bigger roller with wider spacing between the grooves?


----------



## Duckman501

cutigers08 said:


> Duckman501 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a gm1000 1998 model (04052) and am wanting to achieve a hoc in excess of 1 inch. Is there an easy way to accomplish this goal? I was hoping to find a toro part number for a high hoc kit that was compatible but everything I see is for a gm1600. Thanks folks.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't believe there is any easy way or high HOC arms to accomplish this. These machines were not intended to cut anywhere near 1", never mind more. What blade reel do you have? If its 11 or 14 you will see some pretty significant issues with quality of cut at or about 1"
Click to expand...

I understand an 8 blade reel would improve the cut at somewhere around 3/4 inch and up. My 11 blade is currently doing an efficient job on my bermuda at 3/4 but I'm wanting to cut zoysia at 1.25-1.5, thus the reason I'm inquiring about a high hoc kit.


----------



## FATC1TY

Duckman501 said:


> cutigers08 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Duckman501 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a gm1000 1998 model (04052) and am wanting to achieve a hoc in excess of 1 inch. Is there an easy way to accomplish this goal? I was hoping to find a toro part number for a high hoc kit that was compatible but everything I see is for a gm1600. Thanks folks.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't believe there is any easy way or high HOC arms to accomplish this. These machines were not intended to cut anywhere near 1", never mind more. What blade reel do you have? If its 11 or 14 you will see some pretty significant issues with quality of cut at or about 1"
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I understand an 8 blade reel would improve the cut at somewhere around 3/4 inch and up. My 11 blade is currently doing an efficient job on my bermuda at 3/4 but I'm wanting to cut zoysia at 1.25-1.5, thus the reason I'm inquiring about a high hoc kit.
Click to expand...

Is your HOC adjustments the grenade style knobs?

Sounds like you might have the wrong tool for the job in this case.


----------



## Duckman501

Mine is not the "grenade" style adjustment. Mine is model #04052 which i believe to be a 1998 model.


----------



## ag_fishing

Is there a secret to cleaning the pilot jet that unscrews from the top of the carb on the Subaru engine? I thought I cleaned it well and ran a wire through the bottom hole. I cleaned the entire carb and it still surges. The only way the engine runs properly without using the choke is if I barely unscrew the pilot jet. That means it's still dirty but I don't know how it is.


----------



## Steely

I am new to owning a GM 1000 and am curious if I should be able to easily push or pull the mower when the reel lever is not engaged? It spins relatively easy on the differential, but pulling it backwards is very difficult. Is that normal?


----------



## Steely

As I'm going through my GM1K I took the drum belt cover (RH) off and noticed the belt is worn on the inside. I will probably replace this belt, but is there an adjustment to prevent this from happening again?


----------



## reel_green

Hello. I have tried to figure it out through searching but apparently I can't google. Can anyone tell me the year of a greensmaster 1000 with the serial number 
200001256
Model 0452

Thanks.


----------



## Bombers

reel_green said:


> Hello. I have tried to figure it out through searching but apparently I can't google. Can anyone tell me the year of a greensmaster 1000 with the serial number
> 200001256
> Model 0452
> 
> Thanks.


2000

and u probably meant 04052*


----------



## reel_green

Bombers said:


> reel_green said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello. I have tried to figure it out through searching but apparently I can't google. Can anyone tell me the year of a greensmaster 1000 with the serial number
> 200001256
> Model 0452
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 2000
> 
> and u probably meant 04052*
Click to expand...

Yes I sure did 04052' . Thank you.


----------



## MedozK

SpeedNess said:


> Curious to know who's got the oldest running/mowing Toro Greensmaster on TLF. I just used the Toro lookup and found out my GM1000 is 28 years old!!! Serial plate on mine is 04050-21802.
> 
> https://lookup3.toro.com/request/request.cfm


Mine is pretty old 04050-01437 - 1990 Model


----------



## ag_fishing

Well after trying to clean the carb and everything, I went and bought a replacement from Amazon and it fired right up and runs like a top


----------



## reel_green

ag_fishing said:


> Well after trying to clean the carb and everything, I went and bought a replacement from Amazon and it fired right up and runs like a top


What carb did you get? What Toro do you own?


----------



## ag_fishing

reel_green said:


> ag_fishing said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well after trying to clean the carb and everything, I went and bought a replacement from Amazon and it fired right up and runs like a top
> 
> 
> 
> What carb did you get? What Toro do you own?
Click to expand...

It's a Butom carburetor for an ex17, ex13, etc. For the Subaru robin engines. I have a 2013 greensmaster 1000 that has the Subaru ex13 engine. The carb was a perfect fit, but the gaskets required a little trimming which was no big deal and expected since all the reviews pointed that out


----------



## todmanning99

Just coming back to my earlier post about a leaking gas tank, I found one at the 'Kawasaki Engine Store'

https://www.kawasakienginestore.com/

Does anyone have any experience dealing with them? They claim to be selling OEM parts so I'd appreciate any feedback or experience people have had dealing with them.

Thanks.


----------



## gooodawgs

I greased the GM1600 for the first time today. Found all the grease fittings from the manual and I was able to get 2 or 3 squeezes into each fitting before a tiny amount came out and I stopped.

Issue is that the back middle (I think its called the differential?) fitting would never fill up. I think I did 10 or 15 squeezes and never saw any grease come out from any fittings. Is this just a giant compartment that was never greased before?

Here's the middle fitting I'm referring to. Anyone else do this?


----------



## mhale09

Hey there - anyone in the Atlanta area have a contact for maintenance - primarily reel grinding - for a Toro Greensmaster 1600? A couple of the golf courses I have contacted are not interested in taking that on - so wanted to see if anyone else in this area has someone they use and trust. thanks!


----------



## Chuuurles

mhale09 said:


> Hey there - anyone in the Atlanta area have a contact for maintenance - primarily reel grinding - for a Toro Greensmaster 1600? A couple of the golf courses I have contacted are not interested in taking that on - so wanted to see if anyone else in this area has someone they use and trust. thanks!


Have u tried Jerry Pate? ( saw on Ron Heny's Instagram ha ha )


----------



## FATC1TY

mhale09 said:


> Hey there - anyone in the Atlanta area have a contact for maintenance - primarily reel grinding - for a Toro Greensmaster 1600? A couple of the golf courses I have contacted are not interested in taking that on - so wanted to see if anyone else in this area has someone they use and trust. thanks!


Jerry Pate Turf will get it done. Awesome folks.


----------



## Jeep4life

mhale09 said:


> Hey there - anyone in the Atlanta area have a contact for maintenance - primarily reel grinding - for a Toro Greensmaster 1600? A couple of the golf courses I have contacted are not interested in taking that on - so wanted to see if anyone else in this area has someone they use and trust. thanks!


Reel works (https://www.reelworksllc.com/) is another option. I'm about to take mine to Jerry Pate, but mainly because of location.


----------



## Guest

you can also try mower medix


----------



## ZachUA

todmanning99 said:


> Just coming back to my earlier post about a leaking gas tank, I found one at the 'Kawasaki Engine Store'
> 
> https://www.kawasakienginestore.com/
> 
> Does anyone have any experience dealing with them? They claim to be selling OEM parts so I'd appreciate any feedback or experience people have had dealing with them.
> 
> Thanks.


I have a spare tank you can have. You will need to use muratic acid to clean the inside of it out before you use it but if you want it it's yours for free if you will pay shipping.


----------



## Retired292

Nixnix42 said:


> you can also try mower medix


Mower Medix is awesome I've used them twice


----------



## raymond

Through RR Products, would this be the correct product for a GM 1600 grass catcher? https://www.rrproducts.com/Grass-Catcher-~-Fits-26-in-product13666?k=grass%20catcher

I didn't see any grass catcher s in the schematic diagrams for the GM 1600.

Or is a grass catcher the kind of product i should get through my Toro dealer? I thought it was interesting to have a R&R logo on it :lol:


----------



## Guest

try ebay


----------



## Logan200TCP

You won't see the basket available new anywhere else than Toro.
Part # 94-5893


----------



## raymond

Logan200TCP said:


> You won't see the basket available new anywhere else than Toro.
> Part # 94-5893


Thank you


----------



## RangersFC

I have a 2015 Toro GM1600. I want to get the groomer kit (see kit pdf from Toro below), but can't seem to find a place that sells the full kit. RRProducts sells the actual groomer replacements, but not the full kit. Any ideas where I can get the full kit?

https://www.toro.com/getpub/51224


----------



## ZachUA

Do the wheels on a Greensmaster flex 21 also fit a Greensmaster 1600?


----------



## raymond

For those curious what the Toro walk behind mowers went for during the Week's auction this morning...

The prices for the 1600s absolutely blew my mind. Especially i hear how little folks used to pay for these mowers 2-3 years ago :roll:

*GM 1600s*


*GM 1000*


----------



## fredbiv

I picked up a used Greensmaster 1000 (serial #: 04052 - 50220) on fb marketplace, not sure what year. I'm going to clean out the engine. Owner had it at 1/2" with an 11 blade reel that has surface rust with a new tourney bed knife. I would like to mow closer to 1" and will swap out to an 8 blade reel and bed knife.

*My main question is can I upgrade the bed knife adjustment components to the familiar "click" turn bolt?* This machine has a different setup.

And any other upgrades or recommendations I should do when going over this whole machine?

I'm pretty new on these machines, but I have a great small engine repair friend willing to help. Along with a local golf course superintendent's mechanic who said I could bring the machine by for grind, maintenance etc…

I'll take any advice for a cool season Providence RI lawn greensmaster newbie. Thanks everyone for the help as I bring this machine to a great tip top shape for the fall.


----------



## Buddy

fredbiv said:


> I picked up a used Greensmaster 1000 (serial #: 04052 - 50220) on fb marketplace, not sure what year. I'm going to clean out the engine. Owner had it at 1/2" with an 11 blade reel that has surface rust with a new tourney bed knife. I would like to mow closer to 1" and will swap out to an 8 blade reel and bed knife.
> 
> *My main question is can I upgrade the bed knife adjustment components to the familiar "click" turn bolt?* This machine has a different setup.
> 
> And any other upgrades or recommendations I should do when going over this whole machine?
> 
> I'm pretty new on these machines, but I have a great small engine repair friend willing to help. Along with a local golf course superintendent's mechanic who said I could bring the machine by for grind, maintenance etc…
> 
> I'll take any advice for a cool season Providence RI lawn greensmaster newbie. Thanks everyone for the help as I bring this machine to a great tip top shape for the fall.


Good luck on the find! Is this one that was for sale in Holden MA for cheap? I browse periodically for greens mowers as I'd like to get into it, but not sure I can commit time wise yet. Saw you were in Providence, I'm nearby in MA just over the border. Good luck with it, and would love to see how you make out cutting once started.


----------



## Logan200TCP

ZachUA said:


> Do the wheels on a Greensmaster flex 21 also fit a Greensmaster 1600?


Yes, exact same kit is used.


----------



## Buddy

Buddy said:


> fredbiv said:
> 
> 
> 
> I picked up a used Greensmaster 1000 (serial #: 04052 - 50220) on fb marketplace, not sure what year. I'm going to clean out the engine. Owner had it at 1/2" with an 11 blade reel that has surface rust with a new tourney bed knife. I would like to mow closer to 1" and will swap out to an 8 blade reel and bed knife.
> 
> *My main question is can I upgrade the bed knife adjustment components to the familiar "click" turn bolt?* This machine has a different setup.
> 
> And any other upgrades or recommendations I should do when going over this whole machine?
> 
> I'm pretty new on these machines, but I have a great small engine repair friend willing to help. Along with a local golf course superintendent's mechanic who said I could bring the machine by for grind, maintenance etc…
> 
> I'll take any advice for a cool season Providence RI lawn greensmaster newbie. Thanks everyone for the help as I bring this machine to a great tip top shape for the fall.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck on the find! Is this one that was for sale in Holden MA for cheap? I browse periodically for greens mowers as I'd like to get into it, but not sure I can commit time wise yet. Saw you were in Providence, I'm nearby in MA just over the border. Good luck with it, and would love to see how you make out cutting once started.
Click to expand...

It does look like the one in Holden as I recall the T2 on the mower. Looks like you were able to scoop up a good deal. I saw this and was going to jump on it but tied up with things can't always act as fast as I would like.


----------



## Logan200TCP

RangersFC said:


> I have a 2015 Toro GM1600. I want to get the groomer kit (see kit pdf from Toro below), but can't seem to find a place that sells the full kit. RRProducts sells the actual groomer replacements, but not the full kit. Any ideas where I can get the full kit?
> 
> https://www.toro.com/getpub/51224


The kit, model 04132, is obsolete at the factory.
You will have to build from parts or find a GR1600 with a groomer already installed.


----------



## Logan200TCP

fredbiv said:


> I picked up a used Greensmaster 1000 (serial #: 04052 - 50220) on fb marketplace, not sure what year. I'm going to clean out the engine. Owner had it at 1/2" with an 11 blade reel that has surface rust with a new tourney bed knife. I would like to mow closer to 1" and will swap out to an 8 blade reel and bed knife.
> 
> *My main question is can I upgrade the bed knife adjustment components to the familiar "click" turn bolt?* This machine has a different setup.
> 
> And any other upgrades or recommendations I should do when going over this whole machine?
> 
> I'm pretty new on these machines, but I have a great small engine repair friend willing to help. Along with a local golf course superintendent's mechanic who said I could bring the machine by for grind, maintenance etc…
> 
> I'll take any advice for a cool season Providence RI lawn greensmaster newbie. Thanks everyone for the help as I bring this machine to a great tip top shape for the fall.


It's a 1995.
There won't be anything else to do with that unit other than maintenance, or reels and bedknives. 
Lots of meat on the reel, so that's good news.
Even it were possible, I wouldn't bother upgrading the adjustments you would be better off spending that money for a more current mower. For what it's worth, the quality of cut will be the same for your application.


----------



## fredbiv

Buddy you are correct this was in Holden and I was fortunate to scoop it up. Perhaps we'll have to meet up sometime.

Thanks Logan200TCP, so it is possible to upgrade the bed knife adjustment components as I show here from the R&R schematic list, but as you said it would be a chunk of change to swap out. So I'd need all of these components completely swapped and they'll fit the same mounting holes?


----------



## Logan200TCP

No but yes.
You need more than just those components. There is a subframe where the adjustment bolts are situated which needs to be updated. If you compare the model years of that GR, 1995 vs 2011 on Master parts viewer, you will see how different the assembly is.

Yours


compared to new style


The crossmember, part # 112-9272-01, alone is $700 Canadian, plus you will have a laundry list of parts which will need to be added. If you are hellbent on doing it, fill your boots, but given parts supply shortages and increasing raw material costs, I would just leave it alone.


----------



## fredbiv

Logan200TCP, wow I can see the difference now. I got a great price on this unit and figured I could put a few bucks into getting it running well, but that upgrade option is like buying a newer used greensmaster. Looks like I will need to learn how get good at adjusting that bed knife the old way. Thanks again.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

I have a 04052 model GM1000. The adjustment to the bedknife predates the click style of newer models. The screws and lock nut to the bedknife adjustment are rounded over and the lock nut is stuck where I can not lock it down. Would it be possible to upgrade to the newer click style?


----------



## fredbiv

Hey Logan,
So I wish I knew where to access and find when Toro made these model revisions. However, I'm stumped because I found a 1999 Greensmaster 1000 online with the click turn bolt bed knife adjustment. What year did Toro make the switch?

Here is the one I saw online:


----------



## raymond

Hi all! I just picked up a used 2008 GM1000 - everything works (more or less), except i seem to be having power / throttle issues. The engine cranks and runs smooth, but its almost as if it's missing the umph. If i change the choke, it revs up but struggles a bit, and when the choke it all the way pushed toward the engine, it dies - when it is extended as far out as possible, it's fine (but again little power). Choke aside, it seems like my throttle cable has very little travel (either low or high is within an inch swing of each other), but when i manually try to increase the throttle at the motor (after the cable), it doesn't really help. i'm lost... Any ideas or help? Much appreciated!!


----------



## FATC1TY

Probably a stretched out cable, look to replace that, especially if you can get it running snd the higher Tom's on the motor by manually moving the throttle.


----------



## gooodawgs

gooodawgs said:


> I greased the GM1600 for the first time today. Found all the grease fittings from the manual and I was able to get 2 or 3 squeezes into each fitting before a tiny amount came out and I stopped.
> 
> Issue is that the back middle (I think its called the differential?) fitting would never fill up. I think I did 10 or 15 squeezes and never saw any grease come out from any fittings. Is this just a giant compartment that was never greased before?
> 
> Here's the middle fitting I'm referring to. Anyone else do this?


Bumping this one up again to see if anyone has a suggestion.


----------



## Logan200TCP

fredbiv said:


> Hey Logan,
> So I wish I knew where to access and find when Toro made these model revisions. However, I'm stumped because I found a 1999 Greensmaster 1000 online with the click turn bolt bed knife adjustment. What year did Toro make the switch?
> 
> Here is the one I saw online:


Sorry, I am wrong. I was thinking about the new, new style of bedknife adjustment.

From what I can see (take it with a grain of salt now), the updated click style bedknife indexing you are referring to changed in 1997.



It appears you could convert to this style relatively easy with a few parts.


----------



## JerseyGreens

I'm (hopefully) going to add a 1600 to my arsenal this year...I've learned a TON from this thread such as used listings with Subaru engines are automatically "newer" than anything with Kawasaki's, etc.

I've also noticed that over time Toro has made the GM's easier to maintain/fix/replace components.

@Logan200TCP and others - is there a particular model year that would be best for me to look for? I heard a video on the 2020s that the machines never have to be greased (are they serious!?)

I'm thinking of 2016s and newer but was there perhaps a model change in 2014, or 2013 that would suffice for my needs? I'm good with tools but not a crazy mechanic or anything!


----------



## FATC1TY

gooodawgs said:


> gooodawgs said:
> 
> 
> 
> I greased the GM1600 for the first time today. Found all the grease fittings from the manual and I was able to get 2 or 3 squeezes into each fitting before a tiny amount came out and I stopped.
> 
> Issue is that the back middle (I think its called the differential?) fitting would never fill up. I think I did 10 or 15 squeezes and never saw any grease come out from any fittings. Is this just a giant compartment that was never greased before?
> 
> Here's the middle fitting I'm referring to. Anyone else do this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bumping this one up again to see if anyone has a suggestion.
Click to expand...

I think it'll just fill up, I've always just put about 3-4 shots in there and been done. I don't ever see it come out like you would the others.


----------



## FATC1TY

JerseyGreens said:


> I'm (hopefully) going to add a 1600 to my arsenal this year...I've learned a TON from this thread such as used listings with Subaru engines are automatically "newer" than anything with Kawasaki's, etc.
> 
> I've also noticed that over time Toro has made the GM's easier to maintain/fix/replace components.
> 
> @Logan200TCP and others - is there a particular model year that would be best for me to look for? I heard a video on the 2020s that the machines never have to be greased (are they serious!?)
> 
> I'm thinking of 2016s and newer but was there perhaps a model change in 2014, or 2013 that would suffice for my needs? I'm good with tools but not a crazy mechanic or anything!


My opinion on date? Probably not a huge difference other than maybe the motor. Subaru probably had more available parts, the rest is pretty standard.

I personally would look for machines from 2010 up at this point. They will run for a long long time, need minimal work, especially if they run, the rest of the stuff is so heavy duty it's merely wear parts like
Bedknife and reel and seals. Once changed you've got plenty of life on the mower for good while.


----------



## JerseyGreens

FATC1TY said:


> JerseyGreens said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm (hopefully) going to add a 1600 to my arsenal this year...I've learned a TON from this thread such as used listings with Subaru engines are automatically "newer" than anything with Kawasaki's, etc.
> 
> I've also noticed that over time Toro has made the GM's easier to maintain/fix/replace components.
> 
> @Logan200TCP and others - is there a particular model year that would be best for me to look for? I heard a video on the 2020s that the machines never have to be greased (are they serious!?)
> 
> I'm thinking of 2016s and newer but was there perhaps a model change in 2014, or 2013 that would suffice for my needs? I'm good with tools but not a crazy mechanic or anything!
> 
> 
> 
> My opinion on date? Probably not a huge difference other than maybe the motor. Subaru probably had more available parts, the rest is pretty standard.
> 
> I personally would look for machines from 2010 up at this point. They will run for a long long time, need minimal work, especially if they run, the rest of the stuff is so heavy duty it's merely wear parts like
> Bedknife and reel and seals. Once changed you've got plenty of life on the mower for good while.
Click to expand...

Thank you sir...also thank you for not yelling at me for posting something in a thread even though I don't own a GM yet...cough cough Swardman thread...cough... :lol:


----------



## JerseyGreens

My dreams of getting a GM1600 will have to be on hold...nothing decent on the used market, except this one and holy heck that is expensive for a used machine. (I know the new ones are 10k!)

https://miturfequip.com/product/2016-toro-greensmaster-1600-walking-greens-mower-2/


----------



## FATC1TY

JerseyGreens said:


> My dreams of getting a GM1600 will have to be on hold...nothing decent on the used market, except this one and holy heck that is expensive for a used machine. (I know the new ones are 10k!)
> 
> https://miturfequip.com/product/2016-toro-greensmaster-1600-walking-greens-mower-2/


Just recently, someone shared the prices of GM1600s from the recent Weeks auction last week. I know I didn't see any discussion on it. Perhaps people keeping it quiet in hopes of a deal, or they just knew it was going to be expensive. I checked in on the last day and the prices for the mowers was insanity.

If I recall the 1600s all were around 2008 or 2010 I think, one had a groomer, 2 had the gearbox and set up but no groomer bar, and all looked okay, but not outstanding in shape/paint.

I think $1100-1650 is what they all went for, and I assume all were running fine due to description.

I would imagine 1800-2600 for GM1600s with good 8 blade reels and in cutting condition isn't far off from reality at this point.

Your linked mower is a VERY nice setup. Looks nearly new, the reel looks brand new on it as well. If it were 800-1k cheaper it would be a steal.


----------



## jochoada

Hi Everyone,

I have a 2100 flex with a brush kit. I'd like to modify the current setup to allow for just a touch higher cut. Around 0.6 inch. I'd like to keep the groomer brush. I've got a couple of ideas.

1) drill a hole just below the current clamping bolt. This would allow manual non threaded adjustment.

2) cut the top off the hoc leg to allow just a bit more adjustment. Add a larger washer to the clamping bolt. Also allows for manual non threaded adjustment.

3) find a fabricator to modify the hoc legs. I'm betting an extension probably can't be added because of the kind of aluminum used. It looks cast.

4) fabricate something that will bolt to the existing hole where the roller axle goes through which will offset the roller to increase hoc. This would retain the oem adjustment. Just kinda difficult because of the curves in the area.

Has anyone solved this specifically already?

Thanks in advance,
Jason


----------



## Logan200TCP

JerseyGreens said:


> I'm (hopefully) going to add a 1600 to my arsenal this year...I've learned a TON from this thread such as used listings with Subaru engines are automatically "newer" than anything with Kawasaki's, etc.
> 
> I've also noticed that over time Toro has made the GM's easier to maintain/fix/replace components.
> 
> @Logan200TCP and others - is there a particular model year that would be best for me to look for? I heard a video on the 2020s that the machines never have to be greased (are they serious!?)
> 
> I'm thinking of 2016s and newer but was there perhaps a model change in 2014, or 2013 that would suffice for my needs? I'm good with tools but not a crazy mechanic or anything!


I don't personally like the Subaru engines, they don't run as well as the reliable Kawasaki.
Anything within the last decade is going to be suitable for your needs, there isn't anything in your application that will warrant a late model purchase...they are virtually the same.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

How do you adjust the Governor on the kawasaki to slow the speed down?

In the lowest throttle position my mower still requires a pretty brisk walk. I tried adjusting the screw off the carb but that didn't slow it any.


----------



## GrassClown

According to the Flex Greensmaster service manual, the telescoping coupler should just slide up and off the cutting unit hex shaft. The telescoping coupler on my mower doesnt budge. Any recommendations?


----------



## TigerKnight

I just picked up my first greensmower (Greensmaster 1000).

Just behind the front roller, it has a narrow brush facing the reel, but it does not touch the grass/ground. It does not seem to be a groomer.

What is this called / used for?

Thanks!


----------



## raymond

@TigerKnight - is it this?


----------



## TigerKnight

Yes, I think this is it. However, should the brush be facing (touching) the front roller? Currently, it is facing away from the front roller. Then again, in the picture below is seems it should face away from the front roller.

I guess I am confused about how its installed and its purpose to keep the roller clean?



raymond said:


> @TigerKnight - is it this?


----------



## fajitamondays

Hi, new guy here. Just picked up a 1998 GM800 to tinker with, and it's missing the nut/pin that holds the black plastic bellcrank cover to the clip attached to the hinge. Can one of you post a pic of what that part looks like, and how it holds it to the corresponding clip? It seems it should be some sort of studded pin.

Looking forward to getting this up and running for next season! The 800 seems to be a dainty little sibling to the 1000/1600.


----------



## TigerKnight

My Toro GM1000 is missing its gas cap. For those w/ the Kawasaki engine, is the below all I need based on the picture? Or is there another part?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/124724190389?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=124724190389&targetid=1267597141435&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9011070&poi=&campaignid=13383533174&mkgroupid=124069856838&rlsatarget=pla-1267597141435&abcId=9300579&merchantid=8204014&gclid=CjwKCAjwlrqHBhByEiwAnLmYUMKy_jGE2VFLfPEvrC9hoMHZS62iUT3SLwf0y5nxVuSzAuxI_d-bGBoCfkEQAvD_BwE


----------



## raymond

@TigerKnight looks correct


----------



## TigerKnight

raymond said:


> @TigerKnight looks correct


Thanks! Just purchased.


----------



## DeltaH2o9

GrassClown said:


> According to the Flex Greensmaster service manual, the telescoping coupler should just slide up and off the cutting unit hex shaft. The telescoping coupler on my mower doesnt budge. Any recommendations?


Not sure if you got an answer yet or if I'm even posting this right. For what it's worth.....
I have a 2014 flex 2100 and it has a pin thru the sliding coupler. I put the kickstand in the service position(so you can lean it back when the cutting unit is off). Loosen the 2 bolts that attach the cutting unit to the swing arm and slide(finagle) it out. With or without the transport wheels on.


----------



## raymond

I have a GM1000 (04052) - i can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I bought the "R150466- Bedknife - Super Thick .312 - 1.00 HOC". I have an original 11 blade toro reel. With the replacement extra thick bedknife installed on the bedbar I cannot get the bedbar screw hole to align to the frame. Is it known that the extra thick blade doesn't work with the 11 blade toro reel or do you think it's human error in my install? If you agree it isn't compatible then which of the replacement blades should i buy? I am not clear on the different of the two options below… thanks all!!



Edit: in this post other people have problems with the ultra thick, but I'm thinking that it may only be a problem with the R&R reels? Not sure https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=15032


----------



## ABit

Has anyone played with the gearing on their 2100 Flex? Mine has an 8 blade reel and even being 6'1'', it's a really uncomfortably fast speed to try to keep up with.


----------



## Bombers

raymond said:


> I have a GM1000 (04052) - i can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. I bought the "R150466- Bedknife - Super Thick .312 - 1.00 HOC". I have an original 11 blade toro reel. With the replacement extra thick bedknife installed on the bedbar I cannot get the bedbar screw hole to align to the frame. Is it known that the extra thick blade doesn't work with the 11 blade toro reel or do you think it's human error in my install? If you agree it isn't compatible then which of the replacement blades should i buy? I am not clear on the different of the two options below… thanks all!!
> 
> https://i.postimg.cc/T3q11rBB/A9864-C71-4-D7-D-49-D7-8-E6-F-D4848-A05-D2-AE.png[/mg][/URL]
> 
> Edit: in this post other people have problems with the ultra thick, but I'm thinking that it may only be a problem with the R&R reels? Not sure https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=15032
> [/quote]
> 
> Did you back out your bedknife to reel contact adjustment? A new/thicker knife will not align to your old setting when you reinstall the bedbar.


----------



## raymond

hey @Bombers - i have backed it off and no dice. I emailed R&R (and they replied super fast) and said...

"_Depending on how new your reel is, the R150466 bed knife may be too thick to allow for any adjustment and will therefore, may bind up against the reel. You may try grinding the top face of the bed knife down a little to allow for installation or try a thinner bed knife. Part number R93-4263 should work for you_."

The bedknife they are recommending is a match to what is listed in the Operators Manual... WISH i had matched R&R options and the Toro Operator's Manual to begin with, rather than trusting all the options listed by R&R. Live & Learn... only a $30 mistake... :roll:


----------



## Bombers

raymond said:


> hey @Bombers - i have backed it off and no dice. I emailed R&R (and they replied super fast) and said...
> 
> "_Depending on how new your reel is, the R150466 bed knife may be too thick to allow for any adjustment and will therefore, may bind up against the reel. You may try grinding the top face of the bed knife down a little to allow for installation or try a thinner bed knife. Part number R93-4263 should work for you_."
> 
> The bedknife they are recommending is a match to what is listed in the Operators Manual... WISH i had matched R&R options and the Toro Operator's Manual to begin with, rather than trusting all the options listed by R&R. Live & Learn... only a $30 mistake... :roll:


Since you have it, can you measure how thick it is at reel contact point? Also, you can always save it and get it ground to fit whenever you need a fresh reel grind.


----------



## ZachUA

Has anyone opened up the assembly on the side of the mower that houses the gears that turn the groomer/greens tender? My groomer/tender isn't spinning when reel engaged (it spins freely by hand). This is on a GM1600


----------



## TheCutShop

Keepin It Reel said:


> How do you adjust the Governor on the kawasaki to slow the speed down?
> 
> In the lowest throttle position my mower still requires a pretty brisk walk. I tried adjusting the screw off the carb but that didn't slow it any.


Back out the idle screw.


----------



## TheCutShop

ABit said:


> Has anyone played with the gearing on their 2100 Flex? Mine has an 8 blade reel and even being 6'1'', it's a really uncomfortably fast speed to try to keep up with.


I haven't. Looking at the exploded view it looks like it isn't possible without machining custom parts. The close coupling of the engine output shaft adds complexity.

A GM1000/1600 on the other hand is very doable. I have thought about putting a kit together for this.


----------



## TheCutShop

fajitamondays said:


> Hi, new guy here. Just picked up a 1998 GM800 to tinker with, and it's missing the nut/pin that holds the black plastic bellcrank cover to the clip attached to the hinge. Can one of you post a pic of what that part looks like, and how it holds it to the corresponding clip? It seems it should be some sort of studded pin.
> 
> Looking forward to getting this up and running for next season! The 800 seems to be a dainty little sibling to the 1000/1600.


First page of this thread has all the exploded views. Find the PN and order it up.


----------



## raymond

Hello again - for y'all that have replaced your v-belts on a GM1000/1600 can you provide tips on how to do so? It looks like I can maybe manage to wiggle them out if I have zero engagement and fully relaxed belts… or do I need to remove the idler pulley? Thanks in advance


----------



## ABit

TheCutShop said:


> ABit said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone played with the gearing on their 2100 Flex? Mine has an 8 blade reel and even being 6'1'', it's a really uncomfortably fast speed to try to keep up with.
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't. Looking at the exploded view it looks like it isn't possible without machining custom parts. The close coupling of the engine output shaft adds complexity.
> 
> A GM1000/1600 on the other hand is very doable. I have thought about putting a kit together for this.
Click to expand...

There was mention in this thread of lowering the idle or throttle but I don't want to start messing with the rpms or torque of the reel. I guess I'll eventually just get used to it.


----------



## raymond

raymond said:


> Hello again - for y'all that have replaced your v-belts on a GM1000/1600 can you provide tips on how to do so? It looks like I can maybe manage to wiggle them out if I have zero engagement and fully relaxed belts… or do I need to remove the idler pulley? Thanks in advance


For those that are interested, I removed bolt #1 and the engagement lever #2 and I was able to remove the belts



Edit: I'll sound crazy for saying this, but when I was on vacation a few weeks back I read this entire toro thread - all 80+ pages. This toro thread has so much good information, it's amazing. So I want to add my questions and solutions here to help contribute. Cheers


----------



## ZachUA

Does anyone know if there's a red spray i can get from Lowes or Home Depot that closely matches Toro red? Believe my Greensmaster is a late 2000's model, maybe around a 2008?


----------



## LittleBearBermuda

ZachUA said:


> Does anyone know if there's a red spray i can get from Lowes or Home Depot that closely matches Toro red? Believe my Greensmaster is a late 2000's model, maybe around a 2008?


Amazon has it Toro 361-10 Touch-Up Spray Paint - New Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008TSZNHK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ACMBZYM91J145G0E94G1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## raymond

LittleBearBermuda said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if there's a red spray i can get from Lowes or Home Depot that closely matches Toro red? Believe my Greensmaster is a late 2000's model, maybe around a 2008?
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon has it Toro 361-10 Touch-Up Spray Paint - New Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008TSZNHK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ACMBZYM91J145G0E94G1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Click to expand...

Prices on Amazon are nuts - jacks small engines also has them


----------



## ZachUA

raymond said:


> LittleBearBermuda said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if there's a red spray i can get from Lowes or Home Depot that closely matches Toro red? Believe my Greensmaster is a late 2000's model, maybe around a 2008?
> 
> 
> 
> Amazon has it Toro 361-10 Touch-Up Spray Paint - New Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008TSZNHK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ACMBZYM91J145G0E94G1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Prices on Amazon are nuts - jacks small engines also has them
Click to expand...

Thanks! Unfortunately once shipping is added, Jacks price is same as amazon.

I checked home depot this weekend and the spray paint section was incredibly bare. I only saw one single can of red paint and it was for fabric.


----------



## ZachUA

raymond said:


> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello again - for y'all that have replaced your v-belts on a GM1000/1600 can you provide tips on how to do so? It looks like I can maybe manage to wiggle them out if I have zero engagement and fully relaxed belts… or do I need to remove the idler pulley? Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> For those that are interested, I removed bolt #1 and the engagement lever #2 and I was able to remove the belts
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I'll sound crazy for saying this, but when I was on vacation a few weeks back I read this entire toro thread - all 80+ pages. This toro thread has so much good information, it's amazing. So I want to add my questions and solutions here to help contribute. Cheers
Click to expand...

thanks for sharing. I need to replace mine. where did you order the belts?


----------



## raymond

ZachUA said:


> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello again - for y'all that have replaced your v-belts on a GM1000/1600 can you provide tips on how to do so? It looks like I can maybe manage to wiggle them out if I have zero engagement and fully relaxed belts… or do I need to remove the idler pulley? Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> 
> For those that are interested, I removed bolt #1 and the engagement lever #2 and I was able to remove the belts
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I'll sound crazy for saying this, but when I was on vacation a few weeks back I read this entire toro thread - all 80+ pages. This toro thread has so much good information, it's amazing. So I want to add my questions and solutions here to help contribute. Cheers
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> thanks for sharing. I need to replace mine. where did you order the belts?
Click to expand...

R&R - https://www.rrproducts.com/Belt-~-Engine-Set-of-2-product25919 <- that is the v-belt that fit my 04052 GM 1000, i would verify for your model


----------



## ZachUA

raymond said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> For those that are interested, I removed bolt #1 and the engagement lever #2 and I was able to remove the belts
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I'll sound crazy for saying this, but when I was on vacation a few weeks back I read this entire toro thread - all 80+ pages. This toro thread has so much good information, it's amazing. So I want to add my questions and solutions here to help contribute. Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for sharing. I need to replace mine. where did you order the belts?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> R&R - https://www.rrproducts.com/Belt-~-Engine-Set-of-2-product25919 <- that is the v-belt that fit my 04052 GM 1000, i would verify for your model
Click to expand...

thank you kind sir. it does indeed appear to be same.

im going to go ahead and replace the cable that goes to the clutch/belt assembly and the drum belts, too. any other wear items i should look at replacing?


----------



## raymond

How much grass does it take to bog down your gm? 1/2 inch? 3/4 inch? More, less? My GM is still having issues bogging down - it's like the engine isn't strong enough to spin through and cut the grass. It's cutting paper and has new v-belts. It takes almost no grass for it to kill the engine


----------



## TLE

raymond said:


> How much grass does it take to bog down your gm? 1/2 inch? 3/4 inch? More, less? My GM is still having issues bogging down - it's like the engine isn't strong enough to spin through and cut the grass. It's cutting paper and has new v-belts. It takes almost no grass for it to kill the engine


Do you have the fuel turned on, the one under the air filter? Pointing straight up and down... I've made that same mistake and it acted like how you described.


----------



## raymond

TLE said:


> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> How much grass does it take to bog down your gm? 1/2 inch? 3/4 inch? More, less? My GM is still having issues bogging down - it's like the engine isn't strong enough to spin through and cut the grass. It's cutting paper and has new v-belts. It takes almost no grass for it to kill the engine
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have the fuel turned on, the one under the air filter? Pointing straight up and down... I've made that same mistake and it acted like how you described.
Click to expand...

No dice, fuel appears wide open


----------



## Redtwin

Hey, sorry I'm taking the easy route but I can't find anything on a very short search...

I need to replace the reel on my GM1000. I plan to replace the bedknife as well. What other parts should I plan on replacing while I have it all torn apart (seals, bearings, etc)? Is there a tutorial or anything on the forum?


----------



## ZachUA

Heres what I have in the cart to refresh my GM1600. Any other wear parts I should consider?


----------



## TLE

raymond said:


> TLE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> How much grass does it take to bog down your gm? 1/2 inch? 3/4 inch? More, less? My GM is still having issues bogging down - it's like the engine isn't strong enough to spin through and cut the grass. It's cutting paper and has new v-belts. It takes almost no grass for it to kill the engine
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have the fuel turned on, the one under the air filter? Pointing straight up and down... I've made that same mistake and it acted like how you described.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> No dice, fuel appears wide open
Click to expand...

Is the fuel filter clogged? The one right there by the same switch, it's reverse thread.

How about the carb, is the jets clear? Does the choke work?


----------



## FATC1TY

Redtwin said:


> Hey, sorry I'm taking the easy route but I can't find anything on a very short search...
> 
> I need to replace the reel on my GM1000. I plan to replace the bedknife as well. What other parts should I plan on replacing while I have it all torn apart (seals, bearings, etc)? Is there a tutorial or anything on the forum?


Let me go through my list. I got all my stuff from jerry pate. They ship from Pensacola. Cheaper than RR too.

I think I did the reel seals and bearings, and the reel and bedknife of course.

Pretty straight forward fix, use the manual online for schematics. If you have the groomer it's a little more involved, but nothing tough.


----------



## FATC1TY

ZachUA said:


> Heres what I have in the cart to refresh my GM1600. Any other wear parts I should consider?


Maybe a new air filter if you are so inclined.


----------



## raymond

TLE said:


> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TLE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have the fuel turned on, the one under the air filter? Pointing straight up and down... I've made that same mistake and it acted like how you described.
> 
> 
> 
> No dice, fuel appears wide open
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is the fuel filter clogged? The one right there by the same switch, it's reverse thread.
> 
> How about the carb, is the jets clear? Does the choke work?
Click to expand...

I've cleaned the fuel filter and float bowl twice since getting the machine. They both had junk in them. I haven't been haven't been able to really mow properly with it yet. I've cleared the main jet in the carb - there is only one jet (brass screw on the top of the carb), right? The main jet was clogged and since cleaning the jet and using seafoam the engine has been running smoother. Choke works fine. The engine will rev up/down when I first crank the machine but seems to settle out when I start to (try) mow. Thoughts? Sounds like you think the lack of power is fuel related since it dies under load?


----------



## ZachUA

raymond said:


> TLE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> No dice, fuel appears wide open
> 
> 
> 
> Is the fuel filter clogged? The one right there by the same switch, it's reverse thread.
> 
> How about the carb, is the jets clear? Does the choke work?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've cleaned the fuel filter and float bowl twice since getting the machine. They both had junk in them. I haven't been haven't been able to really mow properly with it yet. I've cleared the main jet in the carb - there is only one jet (brass screw on the top of the carb), right? The main jet was clogged and since cleaning the jet and using seafoam the engine has been running smoother. Choke works fine. The engine will rev up/down when I first crank the machine but seems to settle out when I start to (try) mow. Thoughts? Sounds like you think the lack of power is fuel related since it dies under load?
Click to expand...

possible there are some bearings that have gone bad? Something like that could place extra drag on the motor when engaging the reel. Does it bog down when you just drive it around without the reel engaged?


----------



## Bombers

raymond said:


> TLE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> No dice, fuel appears wide open
> 
> 
> 
> Is the fuel filter clogged? The one right there by the same switch, it's reverse thread.
> 
> How about the carb, is the jets clear? Does the choke work?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've cleaned the fuel filter and float bowl twice since getting the machine. They both had junk in them. I haven't been haven't been able to really mow properly with it yet. I've cleared the main jet in the carb - there is only one jet (brass screw on the top of the carb), right? The main jet was clogged and since cleaning the jet and using seafoam the engine has been running smoother. Choke works fine. The engine will rev up/down when I first crank the machine but seems to settle out when I start to (try) mow. Thoughts? Sounds like you think the lack of power is fuel related since it dies under load?
Click to expand...

Does reel spin freely when off?
Does it run without rev issues when the reel is not engaged?
Greased recently?
have you taken the side covers off to check for debris? Teeth on gears are accounted for?


----------



## cutigers08

Redtwin said:


> Hey, sorry I'm taking the easy route but I can't find anything on a very short search...
> 
> I need to replace the reel on my GM1000. I plan to replace the bedknife as well. What other parts should I plan on replacing while I have it all torn apart (seals, bearings, etc)? Is there a tutorial or anything on the forum?


When I did mine I did bearings, seals, and the plastic washers on the bed bar in addition to a reel, bedknife and benknife screws. There really isn't a whole lot to swapping the reel on a GM1000. Once you get the bearing housings out you can drive the bearings out and replace on the bench. Its 1000% easier than doing a DPA reel on a Flex with a groomer, and even that isn't bad. The service manual has solid instructions. A impact with some *** is recommended for the reel drive pulley though. It took some ugga duggas to get off.


----------



## Redtwin

@cutigers08 @FATC1TY Thanks for the guidance. I may just have to make it my off-season project this winter but I hope to not have to wait until then.


----------



## FATC1TY

Redtwin said:


> @cutigers08 @FATC1TY Thanks for the guidance. I may just have to make it my off-season project this winter but I hope to not have to wait until then.


You should be able to complete the swap in a few hours honestly. It's not too terribly bad, as long as stuff isn't seized up too bad.

Just don't forget to reset your HOC… I was so excited when I did mine I just went out for a spin and ended up with a mid summer scalp last year.


----------



## raymond

Bombers said:


> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TLE said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is the fuel filter clogged? The one right there by the same switch, it's reverse thread.
> 
> How about the carb, is the jets clear? Does the choke work?
> 
> 
> 
> I've cleaned the fuel filter and float bowl twice since getting the machine. They both had junk in them. I haven't been haven't been able to really mow properly with it yet. I've cleared the main jet in the carb - there is only one jet (brass screw on the top of the carb), right? The main jet was clogged and since cleaning the jet and using seafoam the engine has been running smoother. Choke works fine. The engine will rev up/down when I first crank the machine but seems to settle out when I start to (try) mow. Thoughts? Sounds like you think the lack of power is fuel related since it dies under load?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Does reel spin freely when off?
> Does it run without rev issues when the reel is not engaged?
> Greased recently?
> have you taken the side covers off to check for debris? Teeth on gears are accounted for?
Click to expand...

Reel does spin freely - it does has some rev issue still, though seems level out when trying to mow - I greased all the zerks when I first got the machine and I haven't really mowed with it at all - all teeth accounted for on belts.

I raised up the HOC today to max height - it was finally able to clip some grass, but after only a handful of passes my v-belts starting smoking… I swear I can't catch a break


----------



## Bombers

raymond said:


> Bombers said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've cleaned the fuel filter and float bowl twice since getting the machine. They both had junk in them. I haven't been haven't been able to really mow properly with it yet. I've cleared the main jet in the carb - there is only one jet (brass screw on the top of the carb), right? The main jet was clogged and since cleaning the jet and using seafoam the engine has been running smoother. Choke works fine. The engine will rev up/down when I first crank the machine but seems to settle out when I start to (try) mow. Thoughts? Sounds like you think the lack of power is fuel related since it dies under load?
> 
> 
> 
> Does reel spin freely when off?
> Does it run without rev issues when the reel is not engaged?
> Greased recently?
> have you taken the side covers off to check for debris? Teeth on gears are accounted for?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Reel does spin freely - it does has some rev issue still, though seems level out when trying to mow - I greased all the zerks when I first got the machine and I haven't really mowed with it at all - all teeth accounted for on belts.
> 
> I raised up the HOC today to max height - it was finally able to clip some grass, but after only a handful of passes my v-belts starting smoking… I swear I can't catch a break
Click to expand...

Might have to tear apart the carb and inspect the gaskets (there's like 3), and check fuel lines for clogs next. After that, I would try replacing the entire carb assy.


----------



## raymond

Thanks @Bombers, i agree.

While trying to cut grass (nothing crazy thick or tall) with the GM1000 the other day the v-belt starting burning/smoking. Has this happened to anyone?


----------



## TLE

raymond said:


> TLE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> No dice, fuel appears wide open
> 
> 
> 
> Is the fuel filter clogged? The one right there by the same switch, it's reverse thread.
> 
> How about the carb, is the jets clear? Does the choke work?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've cleaned the fuel filter and float bowl twice since getting the machine. They both had junk in them. I haven't been haven't been able to really mow properly with it yet. I've cleared the main jet in the carb - there is only one jet (brass screw on the top of the carb), right? The main jet was clogged and since cleaning the jet and using seafoam the engine has been running smoother. Choke works fine. The engine will rev up/down when I first crank the machine but seems to settle out when I start to (try) mow. Thoughts? Sounds like you think the lack of power is fuel related since it dies under load?
Click to expand...

Yeah I feel it's fuel related. There's another jet for idle that should be hidden behind or under the idle adjustment screw.

Is the parking brake belt adjusted properly? It could be dragging possibly.

How about the rest of the belts?


----------



## raymond

I think I installed the v-belt incorrectly when I replaced them… can someone confirm if they route above or below the bottom bar? I installed below, but think they maybe should go above based on ware pattern on the bar… it's a 04052 model gm1000


----------



## Bombers

raymond said:


> I think I installed the v-belt incorrectly when I replaced them… can someone confirm if they route above or below the bottom bar? I installed below, but think they maybe should go above based on ware pattern on the bar… it's a 04052 model gm1000


Just checked mine and it should be above mate. Should be an easy fix there and might also resolve the rev issue.


----------



## raymond

Bombers said:


> Just checked mine and it should be above mate. Should be an easy fix there and might also resolve the rev issue.


Thank you sir!

Other than my belts being installed wrong, I checked my fuel filter cap for the 3rd time since buying it (with very minimal attempts to use the machine) - not only was it full of sediment but also the filter itself was non existent. To actually fix the problem I definitely need to restore/replace the tank and replace the fuel lines. Such a PITA


----------



## Danimin420

Got a 2014 flex 2100, it's got the carbide groomer installed on it now, what do I need other than the high HOC kit to remove the groomer and raise the HOC


----------



## ZachUA

Can anyone offer advice as to how to raise and lower the groomer on a GM1600?

I'm at a loss. The knob won't turn either direction.


----------



## Kicker

raymond said:


> Bombers said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just checked mine and it should be above mate. Should be an easy fix there and might also resolve the rev issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you sir!
> 
> Other than my belts being installed wrong, I checked my fuel filter cap for the 3rd time since buying it (with very minimal attempts to use the machine) - not only was it full of sediment but also the filter itself was non existent. To actually fix the problem I definitely need to restore/replace the tank and replace the fuel lines. Such a PITA
Click to expand...

This is incorrect. My belts have always been below the bar. See the image directly from the service manual for an 04052 model GM1000.


----------



## TLE

Kicker said:


> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Bombers said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just checked mine and it should be above mate. Should be an easy fix there and might also resolve the rev issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you sir!
> 
> Other than my belts being installed wrong, I checked my fuel filter cap for the 3rd time since buying it (with very minimal attempts to use the machine) - not only was it full of sediment but also the filter itself was non existent. To actually fix the problem I definitely need to restore/replace the tank and replace the fuel lines. Such a PITA
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is incorrect. My belts have always been below the bar. See the image directly from the service manual for an 04052 model GM1000.
Click to expand...

You've missed the arrows in his picture. You're looking at the wrong bar.

He's referring to the BOTTOM bar, which he did in fact have it routed improperly before fixing it.


----------



## TLE

raymond said:


> Bombers said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just checked mine and it should be above mate. Should be an easy fix there and might also resolve the rev issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you sir!
> 
> Other than my belts being installed wrong, I checked my fuel filter cap for the 3rd time since buying it (with very minimal attempts to use the machine) - not only was it full of sediment but also the filter itself was non existent. To actually fix the problem I definitely need to restore/replace the tank and replace the fuel lines. Such a PITA
Click to expand...

I think you can get away with draining the fuel tank and flushing it out. Then remove each line, (there's not too many) blowing it out with compressed air and just reconfirming that your carb is still clear of the debris/sediment.

If you do it all together instead of each component separately you should be good to go.


----------



## Kicker

TLE said:


> Kicker said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you sir!
> 
> Other than my belts being installed wrong, I checked my fuel filter cap for the 3rd time since buying it (with very minimal attempts to use the machine) - not only was it full of sediment but also the filter itself was non existent. To actually fix the problem I definitely need to restore/replace the tank and replace the fuel lines. Such a PITA
> 
> 
> 
> This is incorrect. My belts have always been below the bar. See the image directly from the service manual for an 04052 model GM1000.
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You've missed the arrows in his picture. You're looking at the wrong bar.
> 
> He's referring to the BOTTOM bar, which he did in fact have it routed improperly before fixing it.
Click to expand...

I see now, Thanks for the clarification.


----------



## FATC1TY

ZachUA said:


> Can anyone offer advice as to how to raise and lower the groomer on a GM1600?
> 
> I'm at a loss. The knob won't turn either direction.


Probably just too tight by looking at the springs. Turn them counter clockwise to loosen it.


----------



## ZachUA

FATC1TY said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone offer advice as to how to raise and lower the groomer on a GM1600?
> 
> I'm at a loss. The knob won't turn either direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably just too tight by looking at the springs. Turn them counter clockwise to loosen it.
Click to expand...

Just turn the black knob counter clockwise? Do I need to do anything with the pin that is sticking out the side sitting in the notches.


----------



## Guest

your top belt pulley is installed incorrectly the bolt nut should be facing you with the bar on the other side. thats why that inboard belt is getting frayed/worn


----------



## FATC1TY

ZachUA said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone offer advice as to how to raise and lower the groomer on a GM1600?
> 
> I'm at a loss. The knob won't turn either direction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Probably just too tight by looking at the springs. Turn them counter clockwise to loosen it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just turn the black knob counter clockwise? Do I need to do anything with the pin that is sticking out the side sitting in the notches.
Click to expand...

Once you get the black knob loose the pin portion will rotate front or back easily. That will allow you to set the groomer level with it engaged, and then flip the pinned lever "on/off". It's pretty self explanatory once you see it.


----------



## ZachUA

FATC1TY said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> Probably just too tight by looking at the springs. Turn them counter clockwise to loosen it.
> 
> 
> 
> Just turn the black knob counter clockwise? Do I need to do anything with the pin that is sticking out the side sitting in the notches.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Once you get the black knob loose the pin portion will rotate front or back easily. That will allow you to set the groomer level with it engaged, and then flip the pinned lever "on/off". It's pretty self explanatory once you see it.
Click to expand...

ok thanks good sir! I will give er a good crankin tonight and see if it will break loose.


----------



## FATC1TY

ZachUA said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just turn the black knob counter clockwise? Do I need to do anything with the pin that is sticking out the side sitting in the notches.
> 
> 
> 
> Once you get the black knob loose the pin portion will rotate front or back easily. That will allow you to set the groomer level with it engaged, and then flip the pinned lever "on/off". It's pretty self explanatory once you see it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ok thanks good sir! I will give er a good crankin tonight and see if it will break loose.
Click to expand...

The black part should be able to be pulled up a little with spring tension once loose.


----------



## ZachUA

FATC1TY said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> Once you get the black knob loose the pin portion will rotate front or back easily. That will allow you to set the groomer level with it engaged, and then flip the pinned lever "on/off". It's pretty self explanatory once you see it.
> 
> 
> 
> ok thanks good sir! I will give er a good crankin tonight and see if it will break loose.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The black part should be able to be pulled up a little with spring tension once loose.
Click to expand...

I cranked down on it with everything I had but it won't move. I also sprayed some pb blaster down on the metal parts below in hopes it would loosen things up but no dice. Are the springs bound up because it's raised to max height?


----------



## Dlux4life

Anyone know of a good source for a parts machine? I am in need of some expensive parts only available through the toro dealer.


----------



## FATC1TY

ZachUA said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> ok thanks good sir! I will give er a good crankin tonight and see if it will break loose.
> 
> 
> 
> The black part should be able to be pulled up a little with spring tension once loose.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I cranked down on it with everything I had but it won't move. I also sprayed some pb blaster down on the metal parts below in hopes it would loosen things up but no dice. Are the springs bound up because it's raised to max height?
Click to expand...

Probably corroded or something then? No idea, other than suggesting maybe using a wrench SBR loosening the large brass bolts on the bottom. Be very careful you don't do them all the way, as it's under spring tension. Maybe that's enough give to let it unbind?


----------



## FATC1TY

Dlux4life said:


> Anyone know of a good source for a parts machine? I am in need of some expensive parts only available through the toro dealer.


Try the auctions for salvage mowers when they come around.


----------



## rogersta

Reel Low Dad said:


> With the next Weeks auction approaching I figure it is about time I document what was needed to remove the groomer from my Flex and install the High HOC brackets. This should help save you some shipping costs. Once a groomer is installed there are a few items that are removed. The manual states to keep them if you ever remove the groomer. Chances are you wont have these parts. Listed below is what you will need on a Flex 21.
> 
> 1. Counter-weight Part# TTP104-0534-03 -- I bought this from Smith Turf and that is their part number. Cost was $43.80
> 2. Reel Locknut Part R107-3227 -- Bought from R&R cost is $8.20
> 3. Plow Bolts (qty 2) Part R150647 Bought from R&R cost is $2.80 for both
> 4. Flanged nuts (qty 2) Part R14M7296 Bought from R&R cost is $0.80 for both.
> 5. 10mm x 1.5 tapered nuts (qty 2) Got these at Lowes, Not Listed on R&R but they probably have them. Item # 423474 Model # 884520 Cost is $2.80
> 6. High HOC kit. R106-4699 from R&R Cost is $ 90.95
> Optional Items: You may want to get R48-7610 (qty 2) these are the lock bolts that go into the HOC brakets and secure the roller. I reused mine.
> 
> The Reel locknut is a 34mm socket. So chance are you will want to pick one of those up as well.


Looking to install the high cut kit for the flex 21. In lieu of going aftermarket does the toro high hoc kit #120-9600 include all the necessary parts to make it happen. Anybody with advice or lessons learned? Tks


----------



## Reel Low Dad

rogersta said:


> Looking to install the high cut kit for the flex 21. In lieu of going aftermarket does the toro high hoc kit #120-9600 include all the necessary parts to make it happen. Anybody with advice or lessons learned? Tks


The R&R kit was just the arms and I reused the bolts that lock the roller in and the parts that connect the arms to the cutting unit. No clue on the Toro part, but I would think it is just the arms as well.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Anyone know where to determine the year? If the serial begins with 4024 what year was it manufactured?


----------



## raymond

Be careful using KasakiEngineParts for engine parts… Jack's didn't have what I needed so I went to KEP… I submitted my order a week ago… no shipping confirmation.. I call yesterday and they said they had NONE of my parts in stock and that it'd be another week… that sucks, I need the parts to use my gm1000

Edit: to be clear, nowhere on their website did they say any of the parts I needed were out of stock


----------



## TheCutShop

Keepin It Reel said:


> Anyone know where to determine the year? If the serial begins with 4024 what year was it manufactured?


There is a ton of info in this thread, I recommend if you own or looking to buy a Greensmaster to read this whole thread. Most of the questions asked are already answered. 
Having a printed copy of the service manual is a good idea too.


----------



## TheCutShop

raymond said:


> Be careful using KasakiEngineParts for engine parts… Jack's didn't have what I needed so I went to KEP… I submitted my order a week ago… no shipping confirmation.. I call yesterday and they said they had NONE of my parts in stock and that it'd be another week… that sucks, I need the parts to use my gm1000
> 
> Edit: to be clear, nowhere on their website did they say any of the parts I needed were out of stock


Curious if KEP website said the parts were in stock? Look at the bright side it will give you time to print the service manual and study it so you don't cause more damage fixing it.

Have you checked with your Toro dealer? Usually they are the fastest at getting your mower running. I've received all orders next day or two day.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

TheCutShop said:


> Keepin It Reel said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know where to determine the year? If the serial begins with 4024 what year was it manufactured?
> 
> 
> 
> There is a ton of info in this thread, I recommend if you own or looking to buy a Greensmaster to read this whole thread. Most of the questions asked are already answered.
> Having a printed copy of the service manual is a good idea too.
Click to expand...

The manuals do not tell me the year for this machine nor does any resource on Toros site.


----------



## ABit

This might be a long shot, but has anyone used both the Flex 2100 and a Flex 2120? Does anyone know if they have the same gearing in terms of speed of the drive system? I'm not a fan of how fast my 2100 is and I'm looking at possibly going with another model for my front yard and using the 2100 in back.


----------



## fajitamondays

Keepin It Reel said:


> TheCutShop said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keepin It Reel said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know where to determine the year? If the serial begins with 4024 what year was it manufactured?
> 
> 
> 
> There is a ton of info in this thread, I recommend if you own or looking to buy a Greensmaster to read this whole thread. Most of the questions asked are already answered.
> Having a printed copy of the service manual is a good idea too.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The manuals do not tell me the year for this machine nor does any resource on Toros site.
Click to expand...

Here's the lookup form: https://lookup3.toro.com/request/request.cfm

Punch in the model number and serial number, and it'll tell you the year. It's an obscure Toro page that could use more visibility.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

fajitamondays said:


> Keepin It Reel said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TheCutShop said:
> 
> 
> 
> There is a ton of info in this thread, I recommend if you own or looking to buy a Greensmaster to read this whole thread. Most of the questions asked are already answered.
> Having a printed copy of the service manual is a good idea too.
> 
> 
> 
> The manuals do not tell me the year for this machine nor does any resource on Toros site.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Here's the lookup form: https://lookup3.toro.com/request/request.cfm
> 
> Punch in the model number and serial number, and it'll tell you the year. It's an obscure Toro page that could use more visibility.
Click to expand...

Tried that but it doesn't tell the year


----------



## rogersta

Been reading over the thread the last few days. I have just finished installing a new yard (1 week old) with Northridge Bermuda here in Virginia Beach. Obviously the yard is still in the process of establishing and healing itself. I am looking for advice, suggestions on when to make my first cut and at what hoc as this is my first Bermuda yard.

I have a flex 21 with 11 blade reel that I believe has a current max hoc of .625 (maybe .5 if it is stock factory settings) that I plan on using for the smaller front yard area and perimeter passes for the side/back yard. I have the high hoc kit from toro but do not have the clip kit or an 8 blade reel.

For the larger back yard (20k sq ft) I have a 3300 with 11 blade reels currently set at its max hoc of 1 in. I am unsure about the min hoc.

I have grass catchers for both machine. Yay for nay on collecting clippings?

Don't really have any super tight areas but what some recommendations for edging/smaller areas?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Bombers

ABit said:


> This might be a long shot, but has anyone used both the Flex 2100 and a Flex 2120? Does anyone know if they have the same gearing in terms of speed of the drive system? I'm not a fan of how fast my 2100 is and I'm looking at possibly going with another model for my front yard and using the 2100 in back.


All the Toro GMs have the same speed at 1.5 mph to 3.3 mph. Flexes are technically at 1.6-3.7 so low-end speed difference is negligible and should be pretty slow based on my experience with my GM1000. I can mow around a small tree ring with the "turtle" setting taking baby steps.


----------



## Bombers

Keepin It Reel said:


> fajitamondays said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keepin It Reel said:
> 
> 
> 
> The manuals do not tell me the year for this machine nor does any resource on Toros site.
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the lookup form: https://lookup3.toro.com/request/request.cfm
> 
> Punch in the model number and serial number, and it'll tell you the year. It's an obscure Toro page that could use more visibility.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Tried that but it doesn't tell the year
Click to expand...

Flex 2120? I think they transitioned from 2100 to 2120 around 2016, and the current Flex 1018/1021 with Hondas started in 2020.


----------



## hunterb

I'm looking to source/price an 11 blade reel for a flex 1820. Current set up is 14 blade and I'm only looking to set HOC around 7/16". Is there and aftermarket source (Like R&R) or is Toro the only game in town? Any idea about what they are going for and is it worth considering an additional cutting unit if there's one out there with some life left in it? Thanks in advance


----------



## williams6966

Ware said:


> I changed my input drive belts today. The old ones were all cracked up. It was a little tricky, but I was able roll the old ones off and the new ones on without too much work. Hopefully the next owner appreciates them.
> 
> ETA: I had to adjust the little belt guard on the front of the idler pulley. It rubbed the belts with the clutch engaged. I'm glad I checked that before putting the cover back on. It had a couple grooves worn in it so apparently it had been rubbing a while. :|
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:


Do you have a detailed description of how you did this or a link to someone who did? The manual is vague and you seemed to have breezed through it. Did you have to remove anything to get them on and off? Any help would be appreciated thanks!!


----------



## williams6966

Also, did you have to adjust the tension after installing the new belts?


----------



## Ware

williams6966 said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> I changed my input drive belts today. The old ones were all cracked up. It was a little tricky, but I was able roll the old ones off and the new ones on without too much work. Hopefully the next owner appreciates them.
> 
> ETA: I had to adjust the little belt guard on the front of the idler pulley. It rubbed the belts with the clutch engaged. I'm glad I checked that before putting the cover back on. It had a couple grooves worn in it so apparently it had been rubbing a while. :|
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a detailed description of how you did this or a link to someone who did? The manual is vague and you seemed to have breezed through it. Did you have to remove anything to get them on and off? Any help would be appreciated thanks!!
Click to expand...

Wow, that was almost 4.5 years ago. I will defer to someone who has done it more recently.


----------



## raymond

@williams6966 - refer to my post on page 83


----------



## williams6966

Thank you gentlemen!!


----------



## williams6966

Did you have to adjust tension of belts once changed?


----------



## ABit

Bombers said:


> ABit said:
> 
> 
> 
> This might be a long shot, but has anyone used both the Flex 2100 and a Flex 2120? Does anyone know if they have the same gearing in terms of speed of the drive system? I'm not a fan of how fast my 2100 is and I'm looking at possibly going with another model for my front yard and using the 2100 in back.
> 
> 
> 
> All the Toro GMs have the same speed at 1.5 mph to 3.3 mph. Flexes are technically at 1.6-3.7 so low-end speed difference is negligible and should be pretty slow based on my experience with my GM1000. I can mow around a small tree ring with the "turtle" setting taking baby steps.
Click to expand...

Does/can slowing the throttle affect the cut quality?


----------



## TNTurf

> Does/can slowing the throttle affect the cut quality?


The reel and forward drum are all tied to engine RPM. So, no, it won't make any difference other than walking speed so far as the cut is concerned.


----------



## MrTophatJones

I bought a pair of wheels for my late 90s GM1000 that were for an older model without realizing it. The older models apparently used a round axle which is a bit smaller than the newer hex axles. So they don't fit. Think I'm SOL and should resell these wheels or try to shave some metal off of them to get them to fit?


----------



## ZachUA

MrTophatJones said:


> I bought a pair of wheels for my late 90s GM1000 that were for an older model without realizing it. The older models apparently used a round axle which is a bit smaller than the newer hex axles. So they don't fit. Think I'm SOL and should resell these wheels or try to shave some metal off of them to get them to fit?


You may be able to fab up an adapter and have it welded to the wheel. But that would probably cost half as much as just buying a set of wheels (if you don't know how or have a welder).

Edit I just reread and realized the hole in your wheel is smaller than the hex axle. So yeah you'd have to file it out into the shape of a hex, which is probably doable but would be a pain.


----------



## Lawn Burgundy

Ware said:


> GSA Price List for some Toro parts - courtesy of @FedDawg555


@Ware is this link still valid? i keep getting the 404 error


----------



## Ware

Lawn Burgundy said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> GSA Price List for some Toro parts - courtesy of @FedDawg555
> 
> 
> 
> @Ware is this link still valid? i keep getting the 404 error
Click to expand...

Doesn't look like it. I get the same error.


----------



## williams6966

Phxphenom said:


> Got a part # or any idea where one can buy a set?
> Thanks,
> marc
> 
> 
> 
> cutigers08 said:
> 
> 
> 
> They are to prevent hard cut lines on uneven turf
Click to expand...

Where did you purchase the clip kit?


----------



## williams6966

Can anyone tell me where I can purchase the clip kit for a greensmaster 1000? Did a search online and nothing pops up besides a part number


----------



## TheCutShop

Call your local toro dealer. They have territories that limit who they can sell to.


----------



## Joshbronko

Trying to figure out on an gm1600 why the back right drum does not want to spin when engaged. If you spin it by hand the opposite drum will spin opposite but noticed when you go up a hill only the left side will spin. All belts are in tacked. Not sure if the clutch assembly is bad based on the mechanical drawing.


----------



## TheCutShop

It's an open diff so if you're in a low traction spot only one will turn. Nothing is wrong.

ARB might make an air locker though.


----------



## Joshbronko

So even if it's suspended in air should only one transport wheel spin as well? I blocked it up and noticed the same


----------



## gooodawgs

Joshbronko said:


> So even if it's suspended in air should only one transport wheel spin as well? I blocked it up and noticed the same


That happens occasionally to me. I'll finish the mow, stop the throttle handle and put the kickstand up to put the wheels back on. Every few times the right drum axle is slowly spinning and i turn the machine off to get the wheel on. Not sure why that happens or if it's a problem.


----------



## gooodawgs

@FedDawg555 I read that you added the clip kit to your GM1600 (sorry you had to sell her, that must have been rough). As you know the clip kit isnt cheap, but curious to know your thought process on it. Why'd you get one, did you see an improvement, would you do it again, etc. I'm battling washboarding now cutting about .4" and wondering if something like the clip kit could help. Thanks!


----------



## TheCutShop

Which ever wheel has the least resistance will turn. If the diff hasn't been serviced for a while the grease will be pushed out of the spider gears. The grease can help transmit to both sides. Mine both spin while In the air this could be because of the new grease in the diff.


----------



## TheCutShop

gooodawgs said:


> @FedDawg555 I read that you added the clip kit to your GM1600 (sorry you had to sell her, that must have been rough). As you know the clip kit isnt cheap, but curious to know your thought process on it. Why'd you get one, did you see an improvement, would you do it again, etc. I'm battling washboarding now cutting about .4" and wondering if something like the clip kit could help. Thanks!


How many blades do you have on your reel?


----------



## FedDawg555

gooodawgs said:


> @FedDawg555 I read that you added the clip kit to your GM1600 (sorry you had to sell her, that must have been rough). As you know the clip kit isnt cheap, but curious to know your thought process on it. Why'd you get one, did you see an improvement, would you do it again, etc. I'm battling washboarding now cutting about .4" and wondering if something like the clip kit could help. Thanks!


At your HOC of .40 i wouldn't waste the money. It does help with quality of cut at HOC .75 and above but not by much. If I had to do it again I wouldn't put the money into that kit but I wanted to try it out. End of day I found mowing slower with good sharp blades with correct reel to bed-knife yielded the best cut quality and throwing in an occasional verticut to thin canopy.


----------



## FedDawg555

TheCutShop said:


> gooodawgs said:
> 
> 
> 
> @FedDawg555 I read that you added the clip kit to your GM1600 (sorry you had to sell her, that must have been rough). As you know the clip kit isnt cheap, but curious to know your thought process on it. Why'd you get one, did you see an improvement, would you do it again, etc. I'm battling washboarding now cutting about .4" and wondering if something like the clip kit could help. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> How many blades do you have on your reel?
Click to expand...

8 blade


----------



## MarineOh3

Hey guys. I'm almost at my wits end. Broke a bolt off the bottom of my bed bar on the GM1000 (04052) Ordered a new bed bar (R93-6053-01) from R&R and went to install and the two arms on the top of the bed bar are like 1/8th of an inch off from where you mount them in the adjusters - they just won't line up correctly to fit into the adjusters. Everywhere I look online says 93-6053 is the standard bed bar and is the same as part number 112-9821-01 which is what part number my Toro dealer has listed for my machine based on the S/N. So if you accept that those two part numbers refer to the same part, they don't fit my machine.

My bed bar is stamped on the bottom 93-6052 which shows up in exactly zero google searches and in no toro parts catalogs. I'm at a complete loss. Do you think it's possible that the bed bar I bought from R&R, which I assume is an aftermarket part, was made to the wrong specs and that's why it didn't fit? Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks!


----------



## TheCutShop

Is the original bedbar in good shape other than the broken bolt? A broken bolt isn't a big deal to remove, I would remove the bolt and run a tap through all of the holes and be back in business. If you can't find a local shop to do it, put it in a box and send it my way and I'll get you fixed up.


----------



## MarineOh3

TheCutShop said:


> Is the original bedbar in good shape other than the broken bolt? A broken bolt isn't a big deal to remove, I would remove the bolt and run a tap through all of the holes and be back in business. If you can't find a local shop to do it, put it in a box and send it my way and I'll get you fixed up.


It's in relatively great shape otherwise… about as great of shape as a 9 year old hunk of cast iron can be that has been exposed to water and the elements. I had considered doing the above but have never done it. I guess that would probably make the most sense right now… just give it a try.

Although postage to you and back for a bed bar and a bottle of bourbon sounds like too good a deal…


----------



## Bombers

See if you can return it to RR without a restocking fee by telling them the fitment problem. I'd get a quote through a toro turf dealer like jerry pate and see it the price is comparable. Drill and tap is probably the cheapest option. Make sure you put anti-seize to prevent future problems.


----------



## MarineOh3

Bombers said:


> See if you can return it to RR without a restocking fee by telling them the fitment problem. I'd get a quote through a toro turf dealer like jerry pate and see it the price is comparable. Drill and tap is probably the cheapest option. Make sure you put anti-seize to prevent future problems.


I returned it and they even paid for return shipping. I am thinking that their part was just made to the wrong specs. I just bought a used bedbar online and it should be here Monday at the latest… so we'll see. I still might try to dig out the old bolt and either hold on to the old bar for the future or see if anyone needs one.


----------



## Lawn Burgundy

gooodawgs said:


> @FedDawg555 I read that you added the clip kit to your GM1600 (sorry you had to sell her, that must have been rough). As you know the clip kit isnt cheap, but curious to know your thought process on it. Why'd you get one, did you see an improvement, would you do it again, etc. I'm battling washboarding now cutting about .4" and wondering if something like the clip kit could help. Thanks!


what number blade reel do you have currently?
I am getting washboarding, and plan on going from the 11 blade reel to the 8 blade reel and a clip kit to hit that magic H.O.C=clip rate target, its all about cut Diameter of reel, number of blades, speed of reel and Ground speed.


link to the document with more info below.

https://cdn2.toro.com/en/-/media/Fi...hash=1531E3CD624D41D0E5C07157493AFECD0FF67BEE


----------



## gooodawgs

@Lawn Burgundy I have an 8 blade. I did as suggested and slowed the throttle halfway and lift the handle a bit more to ensure good ground contact. The wavy look is significantly reduced. Thanks everyone


----------



## frozone

So I'm working through one thing after another and the machine is getting better. So far I'm down to .75" on my cool season blend, but as I'm getting lower, it's starting to struggle or stop the reel. I've noticed as I'm setting the reel to bedknife, it spins smoothly for half of a spin and then tightens up and squeaks and then loosens up again. Is this a bearing related issue or is the reel needing a grind? I can cut paper and it's cutting the grass really well once I power through setting a new HOC. I've attached a video showing what I'm experiencing. Thanks all.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/10-tyYtLbBCm56jUxknDBNAbvILSiqrW7/view?usp=drivesdk


----------



## Bombers

Could be a few factors. 
Maybe rust/build up on the reel after mowing damp/wet grass. Should clean up after engaging your reel for mowing.
Out of round reel. Gotta get a grind.
Loose reel. Check to see if there's any play or loose fasteners somewhere.


----------



## frozone

Doesn't go away after engaging the reel, and I'm not noticing any play in the reel, so I think I'm gonna go with "out of round reel"… I have an 8 blade reel I want to swap in, but I don't want to disassemble my operating unit at the moment. Especially when I'm not familiar with taking apart the reel assembly. I just don't want to get into the project and get stuck…


----------



## FATC1TY

gooodawgs said:


> @Lawn Burgundy I have an 8 blade. I did as suggested and slowed the throttle halfway and lift the handle a bit more to ensure good ground contact. The wavy look is significantly reduced. Thanks everyone


Glad that worked out. I cut really low sometimes, especially if double cutting, and I often wonder how people can't keep up.

I have a long stride and walk fast and I'm slowing down with a greens mower.


----------



## Bombers

frozone said:


> Doesn't go away after engaging the reel, and I'm not noticing any play in the reel, so I think I'm gonna go with "out of round reel"… I have an 8 blade reel I want to swap in, but I don't want to disassemble my operating unit at the moment. Especially when I'm not familiar with taking apart the reel assembly. I just don't want to get into the project and get stuck…


Sounds like a project for the off-season! Hopefully there's a nearby turf dealer or a mower repair business willing to take on the project if you don't want to take on the replacement yourself.


----------



## gutowscr471

Have a 2018 Flex 2120 with F-N-R groomer. One groomer adjust knob is missing. It's not like the older groomers (part no: TTP106-8482). I can't find the part number for it. Anyone know?


----------



## Logan200TCP

Yes, you need to view the groomer accessory breakdown as it is separate from the walker parts.

Assuming your machine is a 2018, Model 04648 is the groomer drive (installed on the cutting unit) and you will need part # 137-0828.
PM me you model and serial number of your machine to ensure it is 100% the correct part as Toro has been changing the groomer drives over the last 5 years.


----------



## Russ010

Keepin It Reel said:


> Anyone know where to determine the year? If the serial begins with 4024 what year was it manufactured?


2009 - 2011 - need the rest of the serial number to determine actual year

This is where I look them up.. most of the years can be found on the drop down. 
https://jponline.jerrypate.com/partsmart-parts-lookup


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Russ010 said:


> Keepin It Reel said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know where to determine the year? If the serial begins with 4024 what year was it manufactured?
> 
> 
> 
> 2009 - 2011 - need the rest of the serial number to determine actual year
> 
> This is where I look them up.. most of the years can be found on the drop down.
> https://jponline.jerrypate.com/partsmart-parts-lookup
Click to expand...

That's incorrect. 2011 models start with 311


----------



## Russ010

Keepin It Reel said:


> Russ010 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keepin It Reel said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know where to determine the year? If the serial begins with 4024 what year was it manufactured?
> 
> 
> 
> 2009 - 2011 - need the rest of the serial number to determine actual year
> 
> This is where I look them up.. most of the years can be found on the drop down.
> https://jponline.jerrypate.com/partsmart-parts-lookup
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's incorrect. 2011 models start with 311
Click to expand...

Your right, but he only gave the model number 4024


----------



## AFBiker2011

Jay20nj said:


> Does anyone have a gm1000 they use for parts? Looking for the reel drive cover, the groomer arm cover and one of the screws the has the allen head that goes through the groomer arm cover that holds the bearing housing in on the drive pulley side. Photos of the parts... any help is greatly appreciated and i can pay for the parts


Hey @Jay20nj , how did you remove the groomer arm cover, the part with the (2) Allen key bolts? Mine is rusted even worse than yours, and I'd like to replace it. I have the new part, but I cannot get the old one off. I can't get the Allen bolts to loosen. Besides removing the reel belt and the Allen bolts, is that all that is needed to take it off? I've referenced the service manual which has a process for removing the reel, but I'm not sure if all that is needed just to remove the arm cover. I've tried penetrant and rust remover gel. I'm about to get an impact driver Allen bit and use that instead of elbow grease.


----------



## Jay20nj

I used an air impact gun. That thing will loosen anything


----------



## JerseyGreens

For those that thin out their lawns by either scarifying/verticutting/topdressing, do you notice that GreensMowers struggle to get many of the stragglers because they are growing horizontally more (no crowding pressure from a neighboring grass blade as it was just thinned out)?

I went through the sand topdressing process and my 1600 is struggling big time to deliver a decent quality of cut. I'm chalking it up to it being a necessary evil of thinning out a lawn - and also not having a groomer attachment.

Please let me know if I'm missing something!

Here is a picture of my roller and 1600 - maybe this needs some tinkering around with...


----------



## TLE

It's part of the process.

You can try using various stiffness brushes on the lawn manually to hopefully speed up the process.

Sometimes I do a triple cut. The 2nd cut right back the way I just came and the 3rd cut on a diagonal.


----------



## JerseyGreens

TLE said:


> It's part of the process.
> 
> You can try using various stiffness brushes on the lawn manually to hopefully speed up the process.
> 
> Sometimes I do a triple cut. The 2nd cut right back the way I just came and the 3rd cut on a diagonal.


Thanks for the reply - pretty much what I figured.

I'm lucky enough to have an Allett which has a lawn "rake" between the front roller and reel that helps stand up some blades. Only going to use that for the time being but damn I miss using the 1600...

Just checked the manual - looks like my front roller is already in the ideal position (I guess :lol: ):


----------



## AFBiker2011

Jay20nj said:


> I used an air impact gun. That thing will loosen anything


Does anything near the reel cartridge need to be removed to take off the arm cover? I'd like to avoid removing unneeded parts.


----------



## Brackin4au

So a buddy of mine bought a Toro greensmower at a random local auction, and it might be the oldest thing I've ever seen haha. Anybody have any insight about this mower? I assume it's going to need some refurb parts to get it in any type of mowing shape, and we can't find any type of info on it with a google search, so I came to people smarter than google… FYI, I'm a JD guy (don't shoot!) so I'm lost ha


----------



## FATC1TY

Brackin4au said:


> So a buddy of mine bought a Toro greensmower at a random local auction, and it might be the oldest thing I've ever seen haha. Anybody have any insight about this mower? I assume it's going to need some refurb parts to get it in any type of mowing shape, and we can't find any type of info on it with a google search, so I came to people smarter than google… FYI, I'm a JD guy (don't shoot!) so I'm lost ha


Model is 04023… probably from the 50s-60s?

You ain't finding factory parts for it, but looks like the engine was replaced at some point.


----------



## Brackin4au

FATC1TY said:


> Model is 04023… probably from the 50s-60s?
> 
> You ain't finding factory parts for it, but looks like the engine was replaced at some point.


That's what I figured too. You think new bedknives will fit? I'm not sure what size the mower is, but if it's a 21" reel, should a bedknife for a GM1000 fit? Who knows if the screw hole design is even the same haha. I'll probably advise him to just email R&R to see what they have available that may work.


----------



## FATC1TY

Brackin4au said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> Model is 04023… probably from the 50s-60s?
> 
> You ain't finding factory parts for it, but looks like the engine was replaced at some point.
> 
> 
> 
> That's what I figured too. You think new bedknives will fit? I'm not sure what size the mower is, but if it's a 21" reel, should a bedknife for a GM1000 fit? Who knows if the screw hole design is even the same haha. I'll probably advise him to just email R&R to see what they have available that may work.
Click to expand...

I'd skip R&R and call a toro parts house like Jerry Pate Turf for any leads.


----------



## Brackin4au

FATC1TY said:


> I'd skip R&R and call a toro parts house like Jerry Pate Turf for any leads.


 :thumbup: Thanks


----------



## JerseyGreens

Finally got around to looking under the hood on the newest addition - GM1600. It never had an hour meter on it but I always assumed it was a low hour machine given the lack of wear and tear for a 2008MY.

Replaced the grease with WD-40 Marine grease and Mercury 2-4-C in the front roller. Checked the belts, pulleys, etc. All is well. In fact most belts look new. Some of the bolts I pulled off were rusted like crazy (easily replaceable).

The last owner(s) most likely used marine grease as the classic blue/teal grease was coming out of the bleeders. Why doesn't every grease fitting have a bleeder on the other end?

It was difficult replacing most of the grease in areas with just a rubber boot seal. I just bled the grease through the boot and wacked it back in place with a rubber mallet.

The reel engage lever area by far had the gnarliest, dark black, end of life grease coming out of it on the machine. I'm assuming this is part of the machine that gets the most heat/friction.


----------



## AFBiker2011

Nice find @JerseyGreens ! I recently acquired a much older GM1000 that is in much worse shape. Your mower's metal parts look almost brand new.


----------



## Guest

AFBiker2011 said:


> Jay20nj said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a gm1000 they use for parts? Looking for the reel drive cover, the groomer arm cover and one of the screws the has the allen head that goes through the groomer arm cover that holds the bearing housing in on the drive pulley side. Photos of the parts... any help is greatly appreciated and i can pay for the parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey @Jay20nj , how did you remove the groomer arm cover, the part with the (2) Allen key bolts? Mine is rusted even worse than yours, and I'd like to replace it. I have the new part, but I cannot get the old one off. I can't get the Allen bolts to loosen. Besides removing the reel belt and the Allen bolts, is that all that is needed to take it off? I've referenced the service manual which has a process for removing the reel, but I'm not sure if all that is needed just to remove the arm cover. I've tried penetrant and rust remover gel. I'm about to get an impact driver Allen bit and use that instead of elbow grease.
Click to expand...

blow torch and elbow grease


----------



## gooodawgs

@JerseyGreens I was putting marine grease near my reel engage this morning and I must have put 30 squeezes in without any overflow coming out from anywhere. Every other zerk or port would take 2 or 3 squeezes and a little would come out, but for some reason this section was a bottomless pit. Is this normal? I didnt see it coming out anywhere else on the machine...


----------



## JerseyGreens

gooodawgs said:


> @JerseyGreens I was putting marine grease near my reel engage this morning and I must have put 30 squeezes in without any overflow coming out from anywhere. Every other zerk or port would take 2 or 3 squeezes and a little would come out, but for some reason this section was a bottomless pit. Is this normal? I didnt see it coming out anywhere else on the machine...


Did you open up the cover to check? The overflow was inside the cover as there is an opening next to the reel engagement lever.


----------



## Mathwiz

Jay20nj said:


> I used an air impact gun. That thing will loosen anything


I used a battery 1/2 inch drive impact to remove my axles and it worked great.


----------



## gooodawgs

JerseyGreens said:


> gooodawgs said:
> 
> 
> 
> @JerseyGreens I was putting marine grease near my reel engage this morning and I must have put 30 squeezes in without any overflow coming out from anywhere. Every other zerk or port would take 2 or 3 squeezes and a little would come out, but for some reason this section was a bottomless pit. Is this normal? I didnt see it coming out anywhere else on the machine...
> 
> 
> 
> Did you open up the cover to check? The overflow was inside the cover as there is an opening next to the reel engagement lever.
Click to expand...

Yes I had the cover open and nothing was coming out. The level to engage/disengage the reel sounds a little "squishy" when I push it in and out, but no grease comes out anywhere. Could there just be a huge void in there that's filling up?


----------



## JerseyGreens

gooodawgs said:


> JerseyGreens said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gooodawgs said:
> 
> 
> 
> @JerseyGreens I was putting marine grease near my reel engage this morning and I must have put 30 squeezes in without any overflow coming out from anywhere. Every other zerk or port would take 2 or 3 squeezes and a little would come out, but for some reason this section was a bottomless pit. Is this normal? I didnt see it coming out anywhere else on the machine...
> 
> 
> 
> Did you open up the cover to check? The overflow was inside the cover as there is an opening next to the reel engagement lever.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes I had the cover open and nothing was coming out. The level to engage/disengage the reel sounds a little "squishy" when I push it in and out, but no grease comes out anywhere. Could there just be a huge void in there that's filling up?
Click to expand...

Either that or an air pocket in the gun.

Edit: there is a third scenario that I popped a seal somewhere in my picture that is hidden from view!! Yikes 😬


----------



## AVega

I just purchased a 2014 Toro Greensmaster Flex 2100 with 600hrs, new bed knife, high hoc kit, and the groomer/verticutter as well. This is my first real reel mower so pardon my ignorance. It had a pretty bad issues with surging idle where you had to leave the choke part way on for it to run when I bought it. I took the carb and gas tank off, removed a TON of debris, and it's all but alleviated a small bit of surging at the lowest RPMs (maybe cable adjustment can completely remedy this?).

That aside, I'm noticing a rattling sound that starts when you increase the RPMs. It's very hard to pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from, but it definitely is coming from center somewhere around the engine and where the gearbox connects. I've taken a video and the noise is easily noticed, I played with the throttle in the video and you clearly hear it when the engine revs up. If anyone can help identify what might be causing this and how to remedy it that would be amazing!

Link to video of rattle:
https://vimeo.com/640015966


----------



## AFBiker2011

Maybe the grass shield vibrating. My GM 1000 grass shield rattles at certain rpms and sounds a little similar to that.


----------



## rvczoysia

I have a 2007 GM 1000. Was wondering if anyone else has a problem with exhaust fumes from how to muffler is mounted on the top front? This is my first reel mower so I'm not sure if the mower is running rich or is this just how it is.


----------



## FATC1TY

rvczoysia said:


> I have a 2007 GM 1000. Was wondering if anyone else has a problem with exhaust fumes from how to muffler is mounted on the top front? This is my first reel mower so I'm not sure if the mower is running rich or is this just how it is.


Probably running rich, but it is an older motor. Might be worth a carb clean.


----------



## rvczoysia

FATC1TY said:


> rvczoysia said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 2007 GM 1000. Was wondering if anyone else has a problem with exhaust fumes from how to muffler is mounted on the top front? This is my first reel mower so I'm not sure if the mower is running rich or is this just how it is.
> 
> 
> 
> Probably running rich, but it is an older motor. Might be worth a carb clean.
Click to expand...

Thank you


----------



## Jay20nj

AFBiker2011 said:


> Jay20nj said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a gm1000 they use for parts? Looking for the reel drive cover, the groomer arm cover and one of the screws the has the allen head that goes through the groomer arm cover that holds the bearing housing in on the drive pulley side. Photos of the parts... any help is greatly appreciated and i can pay for the parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey @Jay20nj , how did you remove the groomer arm cover, the part with the (2) Allen key bolts? Mine is rusted even worse than yours, and I'd like to replace it. I have the new part, but I cannot get the old one off. I can't get the Allen bolts to loosen. Besides removing the reel belt and the Allen bolts, is that all that is needed to take it off? I've referenced the service manual which has a process for removing the reel, but I'm not sure if all that is needed just to remove the arm cover. I've tried penetrant and rust remover gel. I'm about to get an impact driver Allen bit and use that instead of elbow grease.
Click to expand...

@AFBiker2011 
To remove stuck allen bolts i cut a slot with a dremel tool and used the attachment to remove screws in the bedknife with the impact gun. Then replace them


----------



## AFBiker2011

Jay20nj said:


> AFBiker2011 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jay20nj said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a gm1000 they use for parts? Looking for the reel drive cover, the groomer arm cover and one of the screws the has the allen head that goes through the groomer arm cover that holds the bearing housing in on the drive pulley side. Photos of the parts... any help is greatly appreciated and i can pay for the parts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey @Jay20nj , how did you remove the groomer arm cover, the part with the (2) Allen key bolts? Mine is rusted even worse than yours, and I'd like to replace it. I have the new part, but I cannot get the old one off. I can't get the Allen bolts to loosen. Besides removing the reel belt and the Allen bolts, is that all that is needed to take it off? I've referenced the service manual which has a process for removing the reel, but I'm not sure if all that is needed just to remove the arm cover. I've tried penetrant and rust remover gel. I'm about to get an impact driver Allen bit and use that instead of elbow grease.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @AFBiker2011
> To remove stuck allen bolts i cut a slot with a dremel tool and used the attachment to remove screws in the bedknife with the impact gun. Then replace them
Click to expand...

Thanks


----------



## DeltaH2o9

AVega said:


> I just purchased a 2014 Toro Greensmaster Flex 2100 with 600hrs, new bed knife, high hoc kit, and the groomer/verticutter as well. This is my first real reel mower so pardon my ignorance. It had a pretty bad issues with surging idle where you had to leave the choke part way on for it to run when I bought it. I took the carb and gas tank off, removed a TON of debris, and it's all but alleviated a small bit of surging at the lowest RPMs (maybe cable adjustment can completely remedy this?).
> 
> That aside, I'm noticing a rattling sound that starts when you increase the RPMs. It's very hard to pinpoint exactly where the noise is coming from, but it definitely is coming from center somewhere around the engine and where the gearbox connects. I've taken a video and the noise is easily noticed, I played with the throttle in the video and you clearly hear it when the engine revs up. If anyone can help identify what might be causing this and how to remedy it that would be amazing!
> 
> Link to video of rattle:


Nice mower! Mine had a similar rattling sound. If I remember right it was just a nut on the throttle housing or something like that. Nothing internal. Hope yours is the same.


----------



## Steely

Anyone know the proper installation process for the plastic washers and the v-ring seals that go over the transport axles? I looked in the manual and it appears the rubber v-ring seals go on first and then the plastic washers go on next, but what keeps the washers from just spinning or falling off? And what purpose do they serve?


----------



## Bombers

I think you're having a brain fart  . Put the cover back on. The seal and plastic washer keeps debris from intruding. The order of installation is correct.


----------



## Steely

I know the cover will keep the plastic washer from completely falling off but I guess I didn't realize that the cover sets in far enough so the the plastic washer fits in the indent of the cover.

Thanks.


----------



## tboiles

Hey everyone. I spent last winter completely rebuilding a 2012 Greensmaster Flex 1800 that I bought at the weeks Auction. The thing was in pretty bad shape and just rust everywhere. I fixed and replaced everything it feels like. Stripped the paint and my kids picked the color. Well after using it twice it's just to much to handle for my yard design and size. I ended up finding a guy selling a Swardman on Craigslist and picked that up off of him. So I'm selling the Greensmaster.

I'm in Denver if anyone knows someone interested. I can give a lot more detail on what is replaced and the price if anyone is interested.


----------



## Mathwiz

Bombers said:


> I think you're having a brain fart  . Put the cover back on. The seal and plastic washer keeps debris from intruding. The order of installation is correct.


Be careful when installing the cover. Make sure the washer is properly oriented on the shaft. When I removed one of my covers the first time after purchasing my mower, the cover had been put on in a manner that warped the nylon washer. I had to heat it with a heat gun and place it between two pieces of flat steel to reshape it to the original "flat" shape.


----------



## Betucker3

I am looking at a Greensmaster Flex 21. It's a Kawasaki engine. The seller indicates it has a leaky fuel shut off valve. I am wondering how much of a process it is to fix that and cost associated. Does anybody have any insight? Thanks!


----------



## Bmossin

Betucker3 said:


> I am looking at a Greensmaster Flex 21. It's a Kawasaki engine. The seller indicates it has a leaky fuel shut off valve. I am wondering how much of a process it is to fix that and cost associated. Does anybody have any insight? Thanks!


Just get a new one...I usually by from Jacks Small WEngines but they dont have it listed as available.

https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Engine-Fe120d-Assembly-51023-2131/dp/B07KBR7HFY


----------



## Betucker3

Bmossin said:


> Betucker3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking at a Greensmaster Flex 21. It's a Kawasaki engine. The seller indicates it has a leaky fuel shut off valve. I am wondering how much of a process it is to fix that and cost associated. Does anybody have any insight? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Just get a new one...I usually by from Jacks Small WEngines but they dont have it listed as available.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Engine-Fe120d-Assembly-51023-2131/dp/B07KBR7HFY
Click to expand...

Will do. Good to know they are cheap. Any reason to stay away from a 2004 Flex 21 or is that still not too old? Thanks!


----------



## Lust4Lawn

I picked up a 2010 GM1000 (Model 04052) with ~650 hours. It has an 11 blade reel and was set up with a HOC around .16"


My plan is to mow likely around .75" but maybe lowering to .5" once I learn more. Right now my Toro dealer is quoting me special pricing on the following until the end of January.

Edge Series 8-Blade Reel $330

High Cut Bedknife $ 41.00

What is the recommended path here?

Is it ill-advised to have this reel sharpened and install a new high cut bedknife? I'm not expecting greens quality so should I just raise the height and see what I get or should I just bite the bullet and swap out the reel?

Are R&R reels anywhere near the quality of Toro (especially Edge Series)?

Does anybody have the bearing and seal numbers or do you just buy from Toro or R&R?

How does this reel life look? I realize that the best way is to measure the reel but I am unable to get my hands on the mower for ~6+ weeks.

Left-hand reel to bedknife adjuster


Right-hand reel to bedknife adjuster


----------



## Guest

Congrats on the GM1000..if you need a 8 blade R&R I have one for sale.
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=33676


----------



## Kicker

Lust4Lawn said:


> I picked up a 2010 GM1000 (Model 04052) with ~650 hours. It has an 11 blade reel and was set up with a HOC around .16"
> 
> 
> My plan is to mow likely around .75" but maybe lowering to .5" once I learn more. Right now my Toro dealer is quoting me special pricing on the following until the end of January.
> 
> Edge Series 8-Blade Reel $330
> 
> High Cut Bedknife $ 41.00
> 
> What is the recommended path here?
> 
> Is it ill-advised to have this reel sharpened and install a new high cut bedknife? I'm not expecting greens quality so should I just raise the height and see what I get or should I just bite the bullet and swap out the reel?
> 
> Are R&R reels anywhere near the quality of Toro (especially Edge Series)?
> 
> Does anybody have the bearing and seal numbers or do you just buy from Toro or R&R?
> 
> How does this reel life look? I realize that the best way is to measure the reel but I am unable to get my hands on the mower for ~6+ weeks.
> 
> Left-hand reel to bedknife adjuster
> 
> 
> Right-hand reel to bedknife adjuster


I would just use the 11blade for now. I'd attempt a backlap with the 11 blade before just replacing it with the 8 blade. Is the 8 blade better for the HOC you're aiming for. Sure. However the 11 blade will do just fine.

I have an 11 blade still on my GM1000 and found the sweet spot for a high HOC is 5/8ths (.650). Scalp at 3/8ths, or lower, if possible.


----------



## FATC1TY

I would backlap it, but if you can get a discounted reel, do it.

I think it's just a safer approach, and having destroyed a bedknife and then a reel in the same season, it's insurance. I can't recall what I paid, but those prices seem a touch high, atleast for the reel but like I said I can't recall.

I do know I paid less than R&R or close, and got genuine toro parts from my toro dealer shipped to my house in 48 hours. Based on the trouble some folks had, which I think was the bedknife to reel, I will be sticking with Toro branded parts myself.

Congrats on the purchase it looks like a very very clean mower that will bring seasons of great cutting.


----------



## Lust4Lawn

What is the guidance for changing the bedknife but keeping the old reel? My goal is to cut at .75" and maybe .5 in the future.

Is it a bad idea to change the bedknife for a new high cut model and keep the existing 11 blade reel other than clip rate? I have a local golf course that could grind the reel and change the bedknife for me in one visit.


----------



## Bombers

Lust4Lawn said:


> What is the guidance for changing the bedknife but keeping the old reel? My goal is to cut at .75" and maybe .5 in the future.
> 
> Is it a bad idea to change the bedknife for a new high cut model and keep the existing 11 blade reel other than clip rate? I have a local golf course that could grind the reel and change the bedknife for me in one visit.


That's fine. They'll mate both together through grinding.


----------



## Betucker3

Picking up a Flex 21 on Saturday. Anybody have any tips for transporting? It's about a 4hr trip and I will be hauling it inside of a uhaul trailer. Thanks!


----------



## Lust4Lawn

Betucker3 said:


> Picking up a Flex 21 on Saturday. Anybody have any tips for transporting? It's about a 4hr trip and I will be hauling it inside of a uhaul trailer. Thanks!


Tie downs, gas off, grass catcher secure where it can't blow away. I used an ATV ramp to get it in/out of the trailer.


----------



## Betucker3

Lust4Lawn said:


> Betucker3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Picking up a Flex 21 on Saturday. Anybody have any tips for transporting? It's about a 4hr trip and I will be hauling it inside of a uhaul trailer. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Tie downs, gas off, grass catcher secure where it can't blow away. I used an ATV ramp to get it in/out of the trailer.
Click to expand...

Thank you. Luckily the trailer is enclosed but I will still put the grass catcher in the SUV anyways. Any recommended places to tie down on the mower? I was thinking ratchet straps like these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-12-ft-x-1-in-Ratchet-Tie-Down-Straps-with-S-Hook-4-Pack-FH0829/312994495 but not sure of best way to route them as I don't want to damage the mower


----------



## Lust4Lawn

@Betucker3 I would just use cam buckle versions. These mowers are not too heavy and it will make it easier for you to get set up.


----------



## Betucker3

Lust4Lawn said:


> @Betucker3 I would just use cam buckle versions. These mowers are not too heavy and it will make it easier for you to get set up.


Gotcha. I'll see what all they have at Home Depot


----------



## XLT_66

Hey Folks -

I moved last year and sold off my reel mowers because my lot is/was very native and nothing close to reel ready. Here we are about a year later and I'm doing final grading before putting down Zeon and Celebration (front and back). I sold my Toro 1000 to the new homeowners at the last house (who've done quite well with it, really!) so I'm on the hunt for a GM1600 or JD260 for the new, larger yard.

Any ideas of where to look other than eBay, TurfNet, and FB Marketplace/CL/OfferUp? It's been awhile since I had to find one!


----------



## ZachUA

XLT_66 said:


> Hey Folks -
> 
> I moved last year and sold off my reel mowers because my lot is/was very native and nothing close to reel ready. Here we are about a year later and I'm doing final grading before putting down Zeon and Celebration (front and back). I sold my Toro 1000 to the new homeowners at the last house (who've done quite well with it, really!) so I'm on the hunt for a GM1600 or JD260 for the new, larger yard.
> 
> Any ideas of where to look other than eBay, TurfNet, and FB Marketplace/CL/OfferUp? It's been awhile since I had to find one!


I picked up a GM1600 last year. I may be selling it this season. Haven't decided for sure but let me know if you're interested.


----------



## Bombers

XLT_66 said:


> Hey Folks -
> 
> I moved last year and sold off my reel mowers because my lot is/was very native and nothing close to reel ready. Here we are about a year later and I'm doing final grading before putting down Zeon and Celebration (front and back). I sold my Toro 1000 to the new homeowners at the last house (who've done quite well with it, really!) so I'm on the hunt for a GM1600 or JD260 for the new, larger yard.
> 
> Any ideas of where to look other than eBay, TurfNet, and FB Marketplace/CL/OfferUp? It's been awhile since I had to find one!


https://usedreelmowers.com/ is from DFW and is/was a member here. Probably your best option to keep an eye on in-state for large selections.


----------



## T-McD

Asking for a little help regarding the overall width of a GM1000.

I am planning to pick up my first powered reel mower in about a week and am curious on the overall width of the machine. It is a 1998. I could either try to get it in the back of our Jeep Cherokee or I would have to rent a truck. It is about a 2.5hr drive out of state so I don't want to take the chance on the Cherokee and be wrong.

Any help on the largest width of the machine would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## csl23

Jeep grand Cherokee or cherokee?


----------



## Lust4Lawn

@T-McD 
Koven Carlson (@NoslracNevok) put a GM in his Prius if that helps:


----------



## Betucker3

T-McD said:


> Asking for a little help regarding the overall width of a GM1000.
> 
> I am planning to pick up my first powered reel mower in about a week and am curious on the overall width of the machine. It is a 1998. I could either try to get it in the back of our Jeep Cherokee or I would have to rent a truck. It is about a 2.5hr drive out of state so I don't want to take the chance on the Cherokee and be wrong.
> 
> Any help on the largest width of the machine would be appreciated. Thanks.


If your Jeep is set up for towing, I would just rent a uhaul 5x8 trailer. It has tie down spots that work really well for it. I did it on a flex last weekend and it was a breeze (first time towing anything). Going 55mph sucks but your driver is 2 hours shorter than mine was so shouldn't be bad.


----------



## T-McD

csl23 said:


> Jeep grand Cherokee or cherokee?


Just a Cherokee. I was hoping to get an actual measurement on a GM1000. The GM still has the transport tires, so I will take those off to hopefully help out a little. I don't have a hitch on the Cherokee either so unfortunately that isn't an option.


----------



## T-McD

Betucker3 said:


> T-McD said:
> 
> 
> 
> Asking for a little help regarding the overall width of a GM1000.
> 
> I am planning to pick up my first powered reel mower in about a week and am curious on the overall width of the machine. It is a 1998. I could either try to get it in the back of our Jeep Cherokee or I would have to rent a truck. It is about a 2.5hr drive out of state so I don't want to take the chance on the Cherokee and be wrong.
> 
> Any help on the largest width of the machine would be appreciated. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> If your Jeep is set up for towing, I would just rent a uhaul 5x8 trailer. It has tie down spots that work really well for it. I did it on a flex last weekend and it was a breeze (first time towing anything). Going 55mph sucks but your driver is 2 hours shorter than mine was so shouldn't be bad.
Click to expand...

Great idea, but unfortunately not set up with a hitch at the moment.


----------



## NoslracNevok

36" Wide. Also, leaning back it's 24" high, 52" long. Also good it (mine at least) didn't leak any fluids in this position. The shaft is flush with the wheels, so won't likely save width, but it will in height a little.

@T-McD


----------



## dpdphoto

I have a new-to-me GM1600. The mower seems fairly clean. I've noticed there is a clunking/knocking noise and feeling that happens when rolling the unit forward. Sounds like metal to metal. Mower does run and cuts, but I feel like I'm doing something wrong.

-Reel is not engaged. 
-Parking brake is off and the mower is in neutral. 
-Almost feels like something is loading up before it makes the sound. 
-sound/feeling happens only when rolling forward, not reverse. 
-this happens every 3 feet or so when rolling on the ground
-happens with or without transport wheels

Any thoughts?

Here's a video:
https://youtu.be/PvgYYbDdOxc


----------



## T-McD

NoslracNevok said:


> 36" Wide. Also, leaning back it's 24" high, 52" long. Also good it (mine at least) didn't leak any fluids in this position. The shaft is flush with the wheels, so won't likely save width, but it will in height a little.
> 
> @T-McD


Thank you!


----------



## Jeffersonzoysia

XLT_66 said:


> Hey Folks -
> 
> I moved last year and sold off my reel mowers because my lot is/was very native and nothing close to reel ready. Here we are about a year later and I'm doing final grading before putting down Zeon and Celebration (front and back). I sold my Toro 1000 to the new homeowners at the last house (who've done quite well with it, really!) so I'm on the hunt for a GM1600 or JD260 for the new, larger yard.
> 
> Any ideas of where to look other than eBay, TurfNet, and FB Marketplace/CL/OfferUp? It's been awhile since I had to find one!


I just purchased a GM 1600 from Midland Implement co. in Montana. They have 6 GM1000 models, but you may want to e-mail them and ask if they are getting any more in. They have their own shop and sharpen reel and bedknife as well do a overall check on the unit, so It should be ready to go when it gets here in a week or so. Shipping from Montana, but only had 585 hrs on it. Nothing on Marketplace within 250 miles for less than $2,000 available and they aren't in as good a shape as this unit was and paid less than $2,000 including freight.
Hope this gives you another option to consider.
Images were before maintenance and reel sharpening. They even replaced carb seals that were discovered to be worn when they went through it, so I feel they do a good job and deliver a great working unit.
Last pic was today before the shipper picked it up.


----------



## typed by ben

Got a question for all the beleaguered GM1000 owners out there- I have one with a knock off carburetor but I only paid $500 for the entire unit and the guy delivered it. Had some bad oil seals and bearings but w/e, small potatoes.

The carburetor on it is awful. It clogs all the time. Are the OEM units *any* better than the brand X? I don't want to pay $200 for an OEM cross reference that may or may not work with my linkages when I only have $550 into the unit if the OEM carbs are not that great either.

If not I am just going to have a clean one sitting on the shelf to change out whenever the unit on the mower gets clogged.


----------



## Bombers

typed by ben said:


> Got a question for all the beleaguered GM1000 owners out there- I have one with a knock off carburetor but I only paid $500 for the entire unit and the guy delivered it. Had some bad oil seals and bearings but w/e, small potatoes.
> 
> The carburetor on it is awful. It clogs all the time. Are the OEM units *any* better than the brand X? I don't want to pay $200 for an OEM cross reference that may or may not work with my linkages when I only have $550 into the unit if the OEM carbs are not that great either.
> 
> If not I am just going to have a clean one sitting on the shelf to change out whenever the unit on the mower gets clogged.


Plenty of owners here that have 10+ years old mowers with the OEM carb that are going strong if maintained consistently. Did you ask the guy if he still has the OEM carb laying around? If not, I'd give the aftermarket one a deep clean and go from there.


----------



## Holden

Hi,
I have a Toro Greensmaster 1000 and would really appreciate your help.
On the height of cut adjustment on the front rollers am I missing some parts as I do not see how I adjust.
Also I can't find out how old this mower is as the plate has been damaged.


----------



## Guest

you are missing the "grenade" knobs on top of the adjustment bolts..I'd say that's a early 1990's era gm1000 04050 model


----------



## Holden

Thanks for your quick response.
Many thanks


----------



## Guest

Holden said:


> Thanks for your quick response.
> Many thanks


Cheers :thumbup:


----------



## Bombers

cylinder muffler guard and bolt style blade adjustment is early 90s for sure. That thing is pretty clean for its age though. congrats.


----------



## atxmatt

Hi y'all! First post here. I recently acquired a GM1600 from offerup. Its a 2004 model with a groomer, basket, lights, and transport wheels. The belts seem to be in good condition, but I am having an issue where the carb surges. I see the recommended cleaning of the idle jet. I pulled it out and poked it with a needle. Cleaned the fuel filter, which was filled with dirt. Looks like maybe I need to clean the carb. I did drain and replace the fuel. The fuel was definitely old, but it didn't have any dirt in it, so I think the tank is good.

If I take off the carb, will I likely need new gaskets? I want to know what all I need to do to get this cleaned up and running well. I think I might try spraying some carb cleaner in the jet part of the carb first.

The other issue I have is one of the transport wheels has rusted out where the innertube valve comes out. Has anyone ever had this issue? I was thinking about trying to find a plastic washer that fills the gap, but my experience in cycling leads me to believe I will continue to have the value separate from the tube.

Has anyone tried filling the tires with spray foam? I need the wheels to get from the front to back yard as its up hill, and has a lip with gravel landscaping before it goes back into the grass. I do not think I could pull the mower up that hill and over that lip. It works with the flat tire, but leaves black marks if you go over concrete.


----------



## Guest

Take the carb off the engine and completely disassemble it jets, o-rings, and all. You will not truly know the condition of it unless you inspect/clean ALL the carb parts. The hubs rusting near where the tube inserts is a common issue as well. You could try filling in with some epoxy/JB weld I suppose after getting the rust off... I would NOT recommend filling with spray foam.


----------



## atxmatt

@Nixnix42 Thank you for the recommendation. I have been a little confused by Jacks Small Engines website. Can anyone point me to a gasket kit for this carb? Kawasaki FE120 engine.


----------



## Bmossin

atxmatt said:


> @Nixnix42 Thank you for the recommendation. I have been a little confused by Jacks Small Engines website. Can anyone point me to a gasket kit for this carb? Kawasaki FE120 engine.


E-replacement parts has been a little bit easier for me to navigate. Also, you can then at least get part numbers and google/ebay seach/amazon them

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/kawasaki-fe120gas00-stroke-engine-parts-c-30157_30211_30850.html

A lot of these parts are starting to get harder to find.


----------



## atxmatt

Thanks @Bmossin! Very helpful. I'll pull the carb apart this weekend and see what I need. I tried all the simple fixes, but it continues to surge. I was hoping to get a pre scalp in this weekend, but it looks like its going to rain anyhow.


----------



## atxmatt

Has anyone had luck with aftermarket carbs from ebay? Seems like I can get a brand new knock off carb for less than the price of a couple gaskets and it would come with those gaskets. I know carburetors are fairly simple. There are several in the $25-$60 range on ebay


----------



## Bmossin

atxmatt said:


> Has anyone had luck with aftermarket carbs from ebay? Seems like I can get a brand new knock off carb for less than the price of a couple gaskets and it would come with those gaskets. I know carburetors are fairly simple. There are several in the $25-$60 range on ebay


I also went that route...never completely replaced the stock carb, but replaced the pilot get with the ebay pilot jet.


----------



## raymond

@Bmossin link or part # for pilot jet?


----------



## Bmossin

raymond said:


> @Bmossin link or part # for pilot jet?


https://www.ereplacementparts.com/jetpilot38-p-428441.html

Or buy one off Amazon, or Ebay and swap some parts around if you need to.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174466415034


----------



## raymond

Has anyone replaced the metal gas tank with a plastic one? I tried to clean mine last season with vinegar, since there was rust and junk inside from old gas, but it flash rusted and then allowed debris to clog my carb. I then decided that I would just add an in-line filter between the tank and carb as a simple fix. I could re-clean and seal the tank, but would almost rather replace it with something plastic. Has anyone done this or would you recommend another path?


----------



## Guest

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125162815378
go with the OEM.


----------



## FATC1TY

I have OEM, and I just give it a cleaning every two years. I also use non ethanol gas, and I treat it, due to the humidity here.

Once I wind down mowing often, I also add seafoam to my last tank and run it too. Seems to really really help. My mower is a one crank machine.


----------



## Bombers

raymond said:


> Has anyone replaced the metal gas tank with a plastic one? I tried to clean mine last season with vinegar, since there was rust and junk inside from old gas, but it flash rusted and then allowed debris to clog my carb. I then decided that I would just add an in-line filter between the tank and carb as a simple fix. I could re-clean and seal the tank, but would almost rather replace it with something plastic. Has anyone done this or would you recommend another path?


I need to do this. what size hose clamps are those? a straight link would be great .


----------



## csl23

Can anyone share how to get the fuel filter off the gm1000. I've tried the best I can to get this thing loose and it won't budge. I'm wondering if it's never been unscrewed for the lifetime of the Machine. It's a 2008


----------



## Guest

if your talking about the petcock fuel filter yes it can be a bit of a hassle to get off if old. the gasket dries out and practically welds itself on. I've had to spray one with ATF and let sit overnight.. then wiggle it back and forth with a pair of plyers till it came loose.


----------



## csl23

Nixnix42 said:


> if your talking about the petcock fuel filter yes it can be a bit of a hassle to get off if old. the gasket dries out and practically welds itself on. I've had to spray one with ATF and let sit overnight.. then wiggle it back and forth with a pair of plyers till it came loose.



This filter. It's in such a bad spot that it's hard to get Any leverage on it with please. Is atf a penetrating oil? Does wd40 work?


----------



## raymond

Bombers said:


> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone replaced the metal gas tank with a plastic one? I tried to clean mine last season with vinegar, since there was rust and junk inside from old gas, but it flash rusted and then allowed debris to clog my carb. I then decided that I would just add an in-line filter between the tank and carb as a simple fix. I could re-clean and seal the tank, but would almost rather replace it with something plastic. Has anyone done this or would you recommend another path?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to do this. what size hose clamps are those? a straight link would be great .
Click to expand...

IZOKEE 1/4" Inch ID Fuel Line Set... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X2WQSXC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


----------



## Bombers

csl23 said:


> Nixnix42 said:
> 
> 
> 
> if your talking about the petcock fuel filter yes it can be a bit of a hassle to get off if old. the gasket dries out and practically welds itself on. I've had to spray one with ATF and let sit overnight.. then wiggle it back and forth with a pair of plyers till it came loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This filter. It's in such a bad spot that it's hard to get Any leverage on it with please. Is atf a penetrating oil? Does wd40 work?
Click to expand...

Turn it to off for clearance. Spray WD40 or PBblaster. Use the wrench on the flat sides. *Also I believe it's reverse threaded?* Can't remember. Correct me if I'm wrong please.


----------



## Guest

WD40/PBblaster is fine use a wrench on the flat side of the filter pot housing. I've also used a piece of rubber tubing to gain purchase when prying one off an older model gm1000..never taken off. if you can't get it off you can always just replace the assembly as well.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/125128484031?hash=item1d223d24bf:ggwAAOSwAiFhjWNQ


----------



## csl23

Bombers said:


> csl23 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nixnix42 said:
> 
> 
> 
> if your talking about the petcock fuel filter yes it can be a bit of a hassle to get off if old. the gasket dries out and practically welds itself on. I've had to spray one with ATF and let sit overnight.. then wiggle it back and forth with a pair of plyers till it came loose.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This filter. It's in such a bad spot that it's hard to get Any leverage on it with please. Is atf a penetrating oil? Does wd40 work?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Turn it to off for clearance. Spray WD40 or PBblaster. Use the wrench on the flat sides. *Also I believe it's reverse threaded?* Can't remember. Correct me if I'm wrong please.
Click to expand...

I finally got it loose.. Yes it is reverse threaded. I think that was part of my problem. I was making tighter!!! got it off once I started going the correct direction with it. Removing the cover of the air filter housing also helped me to gain more clearance to get my wrenches on there. One to hold stable just above the filter and another to turn.


----------



## Guest

:thumbup:


----------



## typed by ben

atxmatt said:


> Has anyone had luck with aftermarket carbs from ebay? Seems like I can get a brand new knock off carb for less than the price of a couple gaskets and it would come with those gaskets. I know carburetors are fairly simple. There are several in the $25-$60 range on ebay


I think for what you are getting they will do the trick. The ebay junk on my GM1000 has, for its faults, an all metal needle and a decent float and axle. That is more than you get in plenty of carbs out there today. Earlier I asked if the aftermarket carbs are any good and I think that was a little premature as the only times I have ever had a no start condition there was primarily water in my fuel system. Once that was cleared It started on the first pull.

Considering that I feel pretty good about my brand X carb.


----------



## Romangorilla

Shot in the dark here, fellas.
But here it goes:

I'm not the most mechanically inclined person to walk the earth.
So does anyone have a video of them taking the carb off the Kawasaki Motor on a Greensmaster 1000?

I can't find a video any where on the ole inter webs.
Motor surges when in idle like crazy, just want to take the carb off and clean it.

Thanks!


----------



## Bmossin

Romangorilla said:


> Shot in the dark here, fellas.
> But here it goes:
> 
> I'm not the most mechanically inclined person to walk the earth.
> So does anyone have a video of them taking the carb off the Kawasaki Motor on a Greensmaster 1000?
> 
> I can't find a video any where on the ole inter webs.
> Motor surges when in idle like crazy, just want to take the carb off and clean it.
> 
> Thanks!


I took these pictures really quick but can try and do a whole removal video later depending on the wife and kids.

Check the pilot jet first and clean the hell out of that. Spray it with carb cleaner, spray down into the carb with carb cleaner. Run a small wire through the holes in the jet. It is on the top of the carb and easy to do with everything still attached. 
Put it back in when done. Then see if that makes a difference.

Pictures are not in order but you should get the idea.


----------



## Romangorilla

Thanks for the info.
And a step by step video would great!
You should also upload that video to YouTube or something. Lol
I've cleaned the pilot jet. And drained the fuel lines.
And also cleaned the little fuel bulb filter.
She still surges pretty hard.



Bmossin said:


> Romangorilla said:
> 
> 
> 
> Shot in the dark here, fellas.
> But here it goes:
> 
> I'm not the most mechanically inclined person to walk the earth.
> So does anyone have a video of them taking the carb off the Kawasaki Motor on a Greensmaster 1000?
> 
> I can't find a video any where on the ole inter webs.
> Motor surges when in idle like crazy, just want to take the carb off and clean it.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> I took these pictures really quick but can try and do a whole removal video later depending on the wife and kids.
> 
> Check the pilot jet first and clean the hell out of that. Spray it with carb cleaner, spray down into the carb with carb cleaner. Run a small wire through the holes in the jet. It is on the top of the carb and easy to do with everything still attached.
> Put it back in when done. Then see if that makes a difference.
> 
> Pictures are not in order but you should get the idea.
Click to expand...


----------



## Bombers

Reference the parts list so you can see the blown modeling of the assembly. You start by taking parts of from the air filter side and work your way to the carb side. For the carb itself, it's similar to a honda carb and there are many out there showing how to dissemble and clean the carb itself. Most likely main nozzle (3:6) & one or both of the jets (pilot visible outside and main, 3:7, which is inside the carb), secondary cause is gaskets (there's like 4-5 of the same size).

gasket


Here's the service manual for the FE120 itself.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/760853/Kawasaki-Fe120.html?page=38#manual


----------



## Bmossin

Romangorilla said:


> Shot in the dark here, fellas.
> But here it goes:
> 
> I'm not the most mechanically inclined person to walk the earth.
> So does anyone have a video of them taking the carb off the Kawasaki Motor on a Greensmaster 1000?
> 
> I can't find a video any where on the ole inter webs.
> Motor surges when in idle like crazy, just want to take the carb off and clean it.
> 
> Thanks!


Wife went to Costco so I had the time. Daughter filmed it.

I'm no professional.


----------



## Romangorilla

Bmossin said:


> Romangorilla said:
> 
> 
> 
> Shot in the dark here, fellas.
> But here it goes:
> 
> I'm not the most mechanically inclined person to walk the earth.
> So does anyone have a video of them taking the carb off the Kawasaki Motor on a Greensmaster 1000?
> 
> I can't find a video any where on the ole inter webs.
> Motor surges when in idle like crazy, just want to take the carb off and clean it.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Wife went to Costco so I had the time. Daughter filmed it.
> 
> I'm no professional.
Click to expand...

Good sir,
Thank you so much for taking the time to make that video.
This is exactly what I needed.
I hope you buy a winning lottery ticket in your near future!
Thanks again!!!


----------



## Bmossin

Romangorilla said:


> Bmossin said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Romangorilla said:
> 
> 
> 
> Shot in the dark here, fellas.
> But here it goes:
> 
> I'm not the most mechanically inclined person to walk the earth.
> So does anyone have a video of them taking the carb off the Kawasaki Motor on a Greensmaster 1000?
> 
> I can't find a video any where on the ole inter webs.
> Motor surges when in idle like crazy, just want to take the carb off and clean it.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Wife went to Costco so I had the time. Daughter filmed it.
> 
> I'm no professional.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Good sir,
> Thank you so much for taking the time to make that video.
> This is exactly what I needed.
> I hope you buy a winning lottery ticket in your near future!
> Thanks again!!!
Click to expand...

Glad that's what you needed.


----------



## fajitamondays

Oh the joys of ordering OEM parts. Apparently this is what $850 in OEM parts looks like :shocked: 

Mostly due to the clip kit. I have a GM800 which doesn't have an 8 blade option.


----------



## Dlmartin1984

Picked up an GM1000 last week. 04052. Starts easy and runs well. Going to backlap and do a thorough cleaning this weekend. The only thing that I can see that is not working, is the On/Off switch.

Anyone have an idea why it wouldn't be working. It appears to be wired up correctly. Any thoughts are appreciated.


----------



## TC2

Dlmartin1984 said:


> It appears to be wired up correctly. Any thoughts are appreciated.


Did you check the ground wire was still attached to the frame? Mine vibrated itself loose one day and I couldn't turn it off!


----------



## Dlmartin1984

TC2 said:


> Dlmartin1984 said:
> 
> 
> 
> It appears to be wired up correctly. Any thoughts are appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you check the ground wire was still attached to the frame? Mine vibrated itself loose one day and I couldn't turn it off!
Click to expand...

Could you send a picture of what it should look like?


----------



## TC2

Dlmartin1984 said:


> Could you send a picture of what it should look like?




The red wire. I just zip tied it back on.


----------



## T-McD

Looking for some help…

I bought a used GM1000 a few months ago. It had been sitting for quite a while so naturally it needed some TLC. After doing as much maintenance as I knew how (oil change, grease, filters, a few new gaskets, backlap) it was cutting paper and ready to mow. The first mow was nice on my fall '21 reno (see pic below) however after the first mow, 2 potential problems arose:

1) after inspecting the mower upon completion of the mow, I noticed some oil around the base of the engine. This was not there prior to the mow. I was hoping someone could give me some guidance as to where I might first begin to diagnose where the leak is coming from.

2) at the very end of the mow, it felt as if I had to physically push the mower while the reel was engaged, even at full throttle. I then disengaged the reel and the mower appeared to be moving just fine again. Could this be a belt issue? I was thinking that maybe the belts are worn and stretched. Has anyone had this problem before?

Thanks for any help/feedback.


----------



## Redtwin

Is that a crack in the motor mount?


----------



## TC2

I'd first make sure that oil change nut is firmly sealed. They can slow leak if they aren't, especially after vibration and stresses from running..


----------



## T-McD

TC2 said:


> I'd first make sure that oil change nut is firmly sealed. They can slow leak if they aren't, especially after vibration and stresses from running..


Ok, I'll do that first. I went ahead and bought 2 new washers when I did the original oil change so I will put a new one on and see if that solves it (did the original oil change from the rear so I haven't touched the front one yet). If that doesn't work, I will then clean around the engine as best as I can to see if I can find any cracks. Really hoping I do not have to remove the engine.


----------



## raymond

Could it be coming from from around the dip stick?


----------



## T-McD

After giving the mower a wash and running it for about 10min, the oil began to leak again around the base of the engine. After wiping it off to see where it was coming from, I saw bubbles coming from around the base as the oil began to puddle up again. I think it is inevitable that I must take the engine off and investigate. It is looking like there must be a crack somewhere underneath the engine.

The service manual explains how to take off the engine, but it doesn't sound like an easy task for someone who knows nothing about engines. Oh well, I guess that's how you learn.


----------



## Redtwin

What I thought was a crack in the earlier photo was just the oil dripping down the mount. In my opinion, if it is not leaking too bad, I wouldn't deal with it until the off season and just carefully check the oil each mow. That way you won't be without the mower for an extended repair time. If you're anything like me, projects never go as planned and always seem to take three times longer than they should. I would think it just needs a new gasket or seal.


----------



## T-McD

Redtwin said:


> What I thought was a crack in the earlier photo was just the oil dripping down the mount. In my opinion, if it is not leaking too bad, I wouldn't deal with it until the off season and just carefully check the oil each mow. That way you won't be without the mower for an extended repair time. If you're anything like me, projects never go as planned and always seem to take three times longer than they should. I would think it just needs a new gasket or seal.


Ah, well said. That might be the game plan then. I could see a project like that taking entirely too long. I have a manual push reel but now that I own a GM1000, I want to use it! Appreciate the feedback.


----------



## Redtwin

T-McD said:


> Redtwin said:
> 
> 
> 
> What I thought was a crack in the earlier photo was just the oil dripping down the mount. In my opinion, if it is not leaking too bad, I wouldn't deal with it until the off season and just carefully check the oil each mow. That way you won't be without the mower for an extended repair time. If you're anything like me, projects never go as planned and always seem to take three times longer than they should. I would think it just needs a new gasket or seal.
> 
> 
> 
> Ah, well said. That might be the game plan then. I could see a project like that taking entirely too long. I have a manual push reel but now that I own a GM1000, I want to use it! Appreciate the feedback.
Click to expand...

I would use it and just keep a very close eye on it.


----------



## Guest

Is that a crack upper right? might be the cause of your oil leakage. JB weld to the rescue


----------



## Jeffersonzoysia

Question about the Kawasaki FE120 engine on a Toro GM1600:
My New-to-me Toro GM1600 kawasaki engine slightly surges while in idle, but not as much when drive and reel are engaged and cutting. Is this supposed to be like that, or does the carb need cleaning/adjusting? The dealer I got if from said they did an engine tune up and sharpened reel and bed knife and greased zerks. 
Starts on 1st pull, no problem, but it's always performed the same way, so I want to make sure if it's normal or not?


----------



## Guest

Doubt the carb needs cleaning if you're starting on the first pull..check the governor assembly/spring you might need to adjust it.


----------



## Jeffersonzoysia

Nixnix42 said:


> Doubt the carb needs cleaning if you're starting on the first pull..check the governor assembly/spring you might need to adjust it.


Thanks @Nixnix42, I will check that out.


----------



## Redtwin

@Jeffersonzoysia My Flex21 does the same. It starts on the first pull as well. I was going to clean the jets in the carb but just haven't gotten around to it. Once everything is engaged it runs smooth.


----------



## Jeffersonzoysia

Redtwin said:


> @Jeffersonzoysia My Flex21 does the same. It starts on the first pull as well. I was going to clean the jets in the carb but just haven't gotten around to it. Once everything is engaged it runs smooth.


I was wondering if that was the intended operating mode, cant find anything online to support that theory though.


----------



## Redtwin

Has anyone ever replaced their Kawasaki FE120 engine on a Toro Flex21 with a Predator engine or similar? Asking for a friend... :roll:

https://www.harborfreight.com/65-hp-212cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epa-69730.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12125676689&campaignid=12125676689&utm_content=119781803234&adsetid=119781803234&product=69730&store=566&gclid=CjwKCAjwo8-SBhAlEiwAopc9W7J9OGUSLxnqIyFB0pAf57-aOvs8J23jN-_lA2u6bj_uc5YYqp-0OxoCMnQQAvD_BwE


----------



## davegravy

Redtwin said:


> Has anyone ever replaced their Kawasaki FE120 engine on a Toro Flex21 with a Predator engine or similar? Asking for a friend... :roll:
> 
> https://www.harborfreight.com/65-hp-212cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epa-69730.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12125676689&campaignid=12125676689&utm_content=119781803234&adsetid=119781803234&product=69730&store=566&gclid=CjwKCAjwo8-SBhAlEiwAopc9W7J9OGUSLxnqIyFB0pAf57-aOvs8J23jN-_lA2u6bj_uc5YYqp-0OxoCMnQQAvD_BwE


Please start a thread so I can subscribe


----------



## htnguyen7

I've just replaced the carburetor on the GM1600. I was wondering if I have the governor rod, spring rod and spring governor attached properly?


----------



## raymond

I recently sold my 2008 GM 1000 but before doing so i did a full tune up to make sure it was running top-notch. Ultimately the slope on my front yard was too much for the GM 1000, so even with the machine running perfectly i decided to sell it.

The majority of the performance problems i had with the machine when i had it were caused by trash (rust, etc) in the gas tank and clogging up the carb causing surging.

I sealed the gas tank using an epoxy tank sealer which was super easy and future proofed the tank from rust - i would recommend!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09DLCC6R8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, i know a lot of folks here havent had luck with aftermarket carbs, but i bought a replacement carb off amazong for $30 and it was fantastic... worked well for me at least.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JYL5CTJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Food for thought. Best of luck to you all


----------



## FATC1TY

Thanks for the links @raymond


----------



## Bermuda_Rookie

Hey guys,

I took a leap of faith reading multiple posts on TLF and put in an offer to buy a Toro greens master 1000. Just a little bit about me I have never used reel mower and from the multiple discussions points I have learnt that people eventually move from rotary to residential reel mowers (McLane, Cal trimmer etc) and then finally to greens mower. I am trying to skip moving to reel mowers and jumping from my rotary to greens mower. Pasting the pictures of the Toro greenmaster 1000 that I put an offer on here. Will appreciate it if you can provide suggestions on whether this is a good buy or not. The agreed price is $700. Per the owner The manufacture date on this goes back to 1999. He also claims that the mower went through tune up last week. Plz let me know if this is a good deal.


----------



## Redtwin

@Bermuda_Rookie If everything moves and runs as it should I think it is a decent purchase considering it also has the groomer. It's obviously one of the older models but these machines are tanks and will run for a very long time. There still seems to be some decent meat left on the reel and bedknife.

I saw your last post about transitioning from rotary. I also jumped right into a GM1000 from rotary. There will be a bit of learning and popping wheelies at first but once you get the hang of it you'll love it.


----------



## uts

@Bermuda_Rob I don't know about prices in your area but in the NE area greensmower are harder to get and more expensive. That considered a Toro dealer has these on sale for 350 I think. That price includes the fact that the equipment is running. Would probably need a service and sharpening.


----------



## Holden

Hi,
I have a Greensmaster 1000 04050 model approx 1995.
I cut the lawns a few days ago and was working perfectly. However today the engine starts but cannot the drive to the rear rollers.
Took off all the belt covers and they all appear to be fine and am able to freely rotate them.

The problem appears to be the V belts 2 no on the clutch control. On engaging the drive the belts they are not driving the pulley? Is this an easy fix?


----------



## Bermuda_Rookie

Redtwin said:


> @Bermuda_Rookie If everything moves and runs as it should I think it is a decent purchase considering it also has the groomer. It's obviously one of the older models but these machines are tanks and will run for a very long time. There still seems to be some decent meat left on the reel and bedknife.
> 
> I saw your last post about transitioning from rotary. I also jumped right into a GM1000 from rotary. There will be a bit of learning and popping wheelies at first but once you get the hang of it you'll love it.


Thanks @Redtwin - when you switched to GM1000 from rotary how leveled was your lawn? My lawn has a lot of bumps and I am a bit nervous with GM1000 since the highest HOC on this one is .5". With my rotary the lowest HOC was 1.39" and it was scalping at some spots. Reducing the HOC to .5" I may end up damaging the lawn at lot is spots. I want to level the lawn for sure but waiting until May end /June period.


----------



## Bermuda_Rookie

uts said:


> @Bermuda_Rob I don't know about prices in your area but in the NE area greensmower are harder to get and more expensive. That considered a Toro dealer has these on sale for 350 I think. That price includes the fact that the equipment is running. Would probably need a service and sharpening.


Thanks for letting me know. Can you share details of the dealer with me plz? Or is there an online posting that I can look at?


----------



## Redtwin

Bermuda_Rookie said:


> Thanks @Redtwin - when you switched to GM1000 from rotary how leveled was your lawn? My lawn has a lot of bumps and I am a bit nervous with GM1000 since the highest HOC on this one is .5". With my rotary the lowest HOC was 1.39" and it was scalping at some spots. Reducing the HOC to .5" I may end up damaging the lawn at lot is spots. I want to level the lawn for sure but waiting until May end /June period.


It was still pretty bumpy and took several leveling session before I could get it down to under .5". My GM1000 has the ability to mow almost all the way to an inch so I had some flexibility. All you can really do is give it a shot and see how it does. You might be surprised at how little damage it will do if it can at least ride on the front and rear rollers.


----------



## The Flush

Hello Lawn Forum. First post here although I have lurked a lot in the past. I am foolish enough to attempt a home putting green here in southern Ohio. I would guess it is rolling about a 5 on the stimp meter if I had one.

I have only read 10% of this thread and learned a lot already, but I am hoping someone can give me a shortcut with my recent GM 1000 (04052) acquisition as I read through the rest of it.

This mower starts on the first pull and cut fine, but occasionally only 1/2 of the drum turns and I think I have seen it where neither half of the drum turns. It will start turning again if I move the traction engagement lever back and forth. What is the first thing to investigate for this? Is this a belt tension issue or something else?

Also, the reel takes a little more effort to spin manually than it seems like it should. Is there anyway it is related to the above issue? It actually sounds and feels like there is just some caked on grass clippings behind the reel and above the bed knife. Is there an easy way to clean that out without taking the reel off?

Thanks for the help,

-Jim


----------



## The Flush

The Flush said:


> Hello Lawn Forum. First post here although I have lurked a lot in the past. I am foolish enough to attempt a home putting green here in southern Ohio. I would guess it is rolling about a 5 on the stimp meter if I had one.
> 
> I have only read 10% of this thread and learned a lot already, but I am hoping someone can give me a shortcut with my recent GM 1000 (04052) acquisition as I read through the rest of it.
> 
> This mower starts on the first pull and cut fine, but occasionally only 1/2 of the drum turns and I think I have seen it where neither half of the drum turns. It will start turning again if I move the traction engagement lever back and forth. What is the first thing to investigate for this? Is this a belt tension issue or something else?
> 
> Also, the reel takes a little more effort to spin manually than it seems like it should. Is there anyway it is related to the above issue? It actually sounds and feels like there is just some caked on grass clippings behind the reel and above the bed knife. Is there an easy way to clean that out without taking the reel off?
> 
> Thanks for the help,
> 
> -Jim


Looking at this some more, it is not the drum drive belt tension, although it might have been a little lax. It appears that the the differential axle is not always turning even with the traction engagement lever engaged. It is the left side that is not turning. The right side will usually turn. However sometimes when mowing heavier grass or a near scalping situation, neither side will turn unless I give it full throttle and then it seems like both sides will turn and I am able to mow as low as I want.

Any thoughts on why the axle is not turning some of the time?


----------



## Redtwin

@The Flush Check the two belts under the exhaust for wear. I'm stealing a photo from @Holden but this is what they look like. I was having problems getting the mower to push through a hard scalp and replacing these two belts had me popping wheelies again.


----------



## ahlb0012

I searched, but couldn't find the answer to what I think is a dumb question. I just replaced the reel belt on my 1600 and can't figure out how to tighten the belt with the tensioner pulley. I thought I'd be able to loosen the pulley from the inside of the machine like you can with the drive belts on the rear of the machine, but I can't get a wrench on that bolt. What am I missing? Thanks in advance for your help!


----------



## The Flush

Redtwin said:


> @The Flush Check the two belts under the exhaust for wear. I'm stealing a photo from @Holden but this is what they look like. I was having problems getting the mower to push through a hard scalp and replacing these two belts had me popping wheelies again.


Thank you. I will look at the v-belts the next time I use the mower. This morning before I saw your post I tightened the tension of the differential belt and it seemed to help. Both drums turned all the time that drive was engaged.


----------



## g01fer41ife

I'm sure this has probably been asked before but I have not had luck finding it.

I believe my fuel tank on my GM1000 fe120 is rusted on the inside causing it to break off and clog up my carb. I only use pure gas no ethanol. Finding evidence in my fuel filter bowl of rust like substance but I have not removed my fuel tank as I haven't looked into that yet. I want to fix this by removing the rust and coating the inside. Also would like add an additional fuel filter but not sure what to do or purchase to do so. Also I need to replace some of my fuel lines and not sure where to purchase those from.

Sorry if this has been discussed before and any help will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Bombers

g01fer41ife said:


> I'm sure this has probably been asked before but I have not had luck finding it.
> 
> I believe my fuel tank on my GM1000 fe120 is rusted on the inside causing it to break off and clog up my carb. I only use pure gas no ethanol. Finding evidence in my fuel filter bowl of rust like substance but I have not removed my fuel tank as I haven't looked into that yet. I want to fix this by removing the rust and coating the inside. Also would like add an additional fuel filter but not sure what to do or purchase to do so. Also I need to replace some of my fuel lines and not sure where to purchase those from.
> 
> Sorry if this has been discussed before and any help will be greatly appreciated.





raymond said:


> Has anyone replaced the metal gas tank with a plastic one? I tried to clean mine last season with vinegar, since there was rust and junk inside from old gas, but it flash rusted and then allowed debris to clog my carb. I then decided that I would just add an in-line filter between the tank and carb as a simple fix. I could re-clean and seal the tank, but would almost rather replace it with something plastic. Has anyone done this or would you recommend another path?


Go back a few pages. I also did this and works great.


----------



## xraydesigns

Help here. Does anyone have a video changing the v-belt (p/n 92-9218) on the greensmaster 1600 or similar?


----------



## joeker

Hey all. Question regarding a flex 2120 I just picked up. I took it home and scalped my yard. About half way through, I hear some clicking/ticking. Eventually the reel keeps jamming on stolons and the reel won't engage. I was convinced the bedknife was just dull. I swap bedknives and backlap to cut paper. The reel still wouldn't engage so I was convinced the main belt in the transmission was worn from scalping so I replaced it. The reel engages now, but is very weak(I can stop the flex shaft with my hands). Anyone have any idea what else it could be??


----------



## g01fer41ife

Bombers said:


> g01fer41ife said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure this has probably been asked before but I have not had luck finding it.
> 
> I believe my fuel tank on my GM1000 fe120 is rusted on the inside causing it to break off and clog up my carb. I only use pure gas no ethanol. Finding evidence in my fuel filter bowl of rust like substance but I have not removed my fuel tank as I haven't looked into that yet. I want to fix this by removing the rust and coating the inside. Also would like add an additional fuel filter but not sure what to do or purchase to do so. Also I need to replace some of my fuel lines and not sure where to purchase those from.
> 
> Sorry if this has been discussed before and any help will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> raymond said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone replaced the metal gas tank with a plastic one? I tried to clean mine last season with vinegar, since there was rust and junk inside from old gas, but it flash rusted and then allowed debris to clog my carb. I then decided that I would just add an in-line filter between the tank and carb as a simple fix. I could re-clean and seal the tank, but would almost rather replace it with something plastic. Has anyone done this or would you recommend another path?
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Go back a few pages. I also did this and works great.
Click to expand...

@Bombers did you end up fixing your tank as well or just putting a filter in-line? I just ordered the filter from the link on Amazon someone had posted. I would like to stop the rust in general and add the extra safe guard of the in-line filter.


----------



## Bombers

> @Bombers did you end up fixing your tank as well or just putting a filter in-line? I just ordered the filter from the link on Amazon someone had posted. I would like to stop the rust in general and add the extra safe guard of the in-line filter.


No, I didn't recoat the tank since it was around scalping time so I had fuel in my tank. I wanted more time to research different products before I do it as well. Maybe I'll get to it this winter, but so far the in-line is keeping the fuel nice and clean down the line. One of my lines was brittle as well so it was good timing that I changed it out.


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## Lust4Lawn

@g01fer41ife Many motorcyclists have relied on Kreem https://kreem.com/fueltankliner.html


----------



## Saints

I just picked up an older 04050 GM with grenades and have read through this whole thread. It seems that this mower will only go as high as .5" HOC. I found this https://www.rrproducts.com/screw-roller-adjusting-high-cut-r65-9500.html and was wondering if this would allow for a little higher cut? It doesn't have any info, just says high cut. I'm trying to cut at 5/8".

It's also missing at least one Zirc fitting, does anyone know what size this mower takes?

I'm also having trouble with the carb. I tried to take it apart and clean it, but for the life of me I couldn't get the pin that holds the float out as goes between two metal pieces. I tried to take a pick and hammer it out, but didn't want to damage anything as I can't find a carb for this thing anywhere. It has the Kawasaki FG150 motor on it. I could barely find an air filter and it looks like I got the last one of those on Amazon.

One more thing, this thing wants to take off like a bat out of hell when I engage the clutch. Is this normal?


----------



## dmax

I wasn't planning on attempting to reel mow until nest season but I go a deal I couldn't pass up on a couple Greenmaster 1000's. One unit is from 1995 and the other is 2002. I got the 2002 unit running yesterday by just cleaning the fuel tank and the carb. It runs, drive and engages the reel however the reel and bed knife are in rough shape. The '95 unit I haven't messed with yet but the reel on it appears to be brand new maybe. I think I am going to swap the reel from the '95 to the '02 and get a new bed knife. If I think I will continue to reel mow then I'll look at getting an 8 blade reel.

Do you think after swapping the reel and new bedknife that I can just backlap to get it cutting? Anything else I need to consider? I'll prob due a full restore on both mowers this winter but wanted to get one cutting asap.


----------



## Saints

Follow up on my last post, looks like the rrproduct is not a high cut, but a direct replacement. That's fine, I can work with 0.5" cut, but the last hurricane (Ida) took a toll on my lawn as many trees were taken down. I have plans!

I'm going to have to figure out the broken Zirc fitting on the left side(operator facing) as the OEM is 1/4 inch fitting. It looks like the bearings have been pushed and I haven't been able to get the cover off because of stripped bolts to see how to fix that yet, seems to operate fine as of now.

As far as the carb goes, I haven't located a replacement and do not think I will be able too(FG150). It ran fine and then killed after the first mow and I couldn't get it started again. I replaced the spark plug, it was bad, and it started on the first pull. Im almost positive it is the needle, which I can find a replacement for, but I ordered a carb for an FE150 (less expensive) to see if it works. If not then I'll order a needle and take it apart for the 4th time.

Overall I've never worked on small engines, much less a 30 year old machine. I've been having fun learning and even more fun reviving a machine that is still a beast and runs and cuts and teaching me along the way.

As far as taking off like a bat out of hell I still need to look into that. I tried loosening the throttle cable, but like I said, I'm not that advanced yet.


----------



## Jeep4life

My GM1600 has been running less and less smooth each time I run it after I changed the filter and spark plug. From reading posts on here I'm wondering if the carb may be getting clogged from the oil that I put on the new filter? I'm going to add some fuel stabilizer to help clean a little, but also was thinking I'd clean the carb a bit. Is it really as easy as removing the filter and spraying carb cleaner into the hole? Just wanting to double-check to make sure I don't make anything worse, as I've been trying to learn and do more myself with my machines. Thanks!


----------



## Tx_LawnNerd

I would like to start by saying I have used the search topic function and tried googling with no luck. Has anyone found a source or can provide the calculation for Frequency of Clip for a flex 2100 for an 8 blade reel? I was hoping to have something similar to the chart that is on the inside of the cover of the drive unit and can be found on page 36 of the Service Manual in figure 8. I am looking to maintain between .25 and .5 for my lawn and would just like to know which pulley configuration would work best for my purposes. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Tx_LawnNerd

OK, well, i posted the above message and then immediately found a FOC calculation. I put this together with an assumed Speed of 3.5 MPH. So speed and RPM are assumed but I believe even if those are incorrect the resulting FOC will be close to correct based on the 11 and 14 blade results matching the factory figures.

I hope this helps someone else. Also, if anyone knows the correct figures or has an alternate source I would be happy to adjust to ensure accuracy.


----------



## Lust4Lawn

I purchased a used GM1000 with a 14 blade reel. I cannot get this thing to cut paper for my life. I back lapped it with valve lapping compound and tightened the reel to bedknife clearance but cannot get it to cut paper. It does cut grass but the edge is horrible.

Should I continue to backlap or start looking at service or parts? I do notice that there is very slight play in the bearing on left side of the real (opposite the drive belt).


----------



## thelawnlife

I'd have it checked out possibly a new reel with new bearings if that's in the cards as well.


----------



## Johnnyv12

Hi All,
Does anyone have experience adjusting the throttle on a GM that can share the steps in the process?

The throttle has been off since I got my GM 1600 over the winter. Seems to only have one speed even at high idle or low idle. I've cleaned the carb and tried to adjust the throttle cable but Something seems off.

I followed the instructions from the toro manual but doesnt seem to make a difference. Pretty much whether I throttle up or done the speed stays the same as the governor level doesnt move.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Redtwin

Sounds like you might have missed a clip or spring when cleaning the carb? Maybe it was missing all along. Does it have the FE120 engine?


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

So, last season my 3100D started spewing white smoke.

Diagnosis by the super I work with?

Water in the fuel / lines etc.

The fix is to drop the tank, get rid of fuel, dittos on the lines, replace all with fresh fuel, new filters and all. Get rid of water.

Unfortunately I don't have time for that!

How did it occur? I'm guessing I didn't keep the tank topped off over winter or regularly, and over 3 years it built up water.


----------



## bretben55

I was having problems with my gas catcher rubbing on the ground, then popping off the post holders, and rolling off the front of my GM1600. So I added a quick detachable latch on each side. Now the catcher stays on, and is quickly removed when time to dump.


----------



## bretben55

Another "*******" mod for my GM1600. Added a brush to the front, to lift the grass before cutting it. Got lucky, and it also flips up when not in use. Tried it out today, after already cutting the lawn earlier, it lifted more grass and cut off more! (Wife wasn't happy about taking the time to do a double cut)


----------



## xraydesigns

I am trying to buy a grooved roller for my gm1600 but i am seeing so many to choose from on R&R Products website. Can someone with enough info tell me which is a good one to buy.


----------



## ZachUA

bretben55 said:


> Another "*******" mod for my GM1600. Added a brush to the front, to lift the grass before cutting it. Got lucky, and it also flips up when not in use. Tried it out today, after already cutting the lawn earlier, it lifted more grass and cut off more! (Wife wasn't happy about taking the time to do a double cut)


Where did you get the brackets and parts?

I need to add this to mine!


----------



## rxb97

*HELP*
I have a question to anyone that has dealt with Flex 1820(or 2120)with groomer about HOC on a flex...I have a flex 1820 with a groomer...If i change the bed knife /will that allow me to cut higher without changing anything else?
Low cut (0.188-1.00 inch)
Tournament (0.125-0.500 inch)

Is there a high HOC kit that allows you to keep groomer for Flex 1820 or 2120?


----------



## ZachUA

rxb97 said:


> *HELP*
> I have a question to anyone that has dealt with Flex 1820(or 2120)with groomer about HOC on a flex...I have a flex 1820 with a groomer...If i change the bed knife /will that allow me to cut higher without changing anything else?
> Low cut (0.188-1.00 inch)
> Tournament (0.125-0.500 inch)
> 
> Is there a high HOC kit that allows you to keep groomer for Flex 1820 or 2120?


Wondering same thing. How does the bedknife adjust the HOC?


----------



## ZachUA

Also wondering where to purchase front roller extension kit, Toro part number 65-8560. I've searched around online and on ebay and can't seem find it.

Also, also wondering...do any of the Toro mowers with a floating head offer a HOC above .50? I have a Flex 21 with high HOC kit and I think it's only .5" maxed out.

My GM1600 goes higher but it doesn't have a floating head.


----------



## TheSwede

ZachUA said:


> Also wondering where to purchase front roller extension kit, Toro part number 65-8560. I've searched around online and on ebay and can't seem find it.
> 
> Also, also wondering...do any of the Toro mowers with a floating head offer a HOC above .50? I have a Flex 21 with high HOC kit and I think it's only .5" maxed out.
> 
> My GM1600 goes higher but it doesn't have a floating head.


The Flex21 should have about 0.5" max HOC in standard configuration (if you reel is really worn it will closer to 5/8" or even slightly higher). With the high HOC kit it will max out at about 1" with a brand new reel. At least mine does. Mine was fitted with a carbide tip groomer and to mount the high HOC kit I had to remove the groomer, but without the groomer and with the high HOC kit I can set it to about 1". Are you sure you have the high HOC kit?


----------



## ZachUA

TheSwede said:


> ZachUA said:
> 
> 
> 
> Also wondering where to purchase front roller extension kit, Toro part number 65-8560. I've searched around online and on ebay and can't seem find it.
> 
> Also, also wondering...do any of the Toro mowers with a floating head offer a HOC above .50? I have a Flex 21 with high HOC kit and I think it's only .5" maxed out.
> 
> My GM1600 goes higher but it doesn't have a floating head.
> 
> 
> 
> The Flex21 should have about 0.5" max HOC in standard configuration (if you reel is really worn it will closer to 5/8" or even slightly higher). With the high HOC kit it will max out at about 1" with a brand new reel. At least mine does. Mine was fitted with a carbide tip groomer and to mount the high HOC kit I had to remove the groomer, but without the groomer and with the high HOC kit I can set it to about 1". Are you sure you have the high HOC kit?
Click to expand...

Thanks! Do you have any pics of yours? In this pic I found online the bracket looks super long.










I found two high HOC kits on R&R products:

https://www.rrproducts.com/bracket-high-hoc-5-1-4-r110-7351.html

https://www.rrproducts.com/bracket-kit-high-height-of-cut-set-2-r106-4699.html

One appears longer than the other, but neither lists a length or how hight it'll raise the mower.

Mine looks like the first one.


----------



## TheSwede

@ZachUA, this is mine with groomer and standard HOC configuration:



And this is mine with the High HOC kit (the 4699 from RR);


----------



## ZachUA

TheSwede said:


> @ZachUA, this is mine with groomer and standard HOC configuration:
> 
> 
> 
> And this is mine with the High HOC kit (the 4699 from RR);


Looks great!

I think you have the same model Flex I have. Believe mines a mid 2000's...maybe an 03 or 04 model. I think I read that the early model flexes don't raise as high up as later models with or without the HOC kit (but I may be wrong about that).


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

@Pete1313 @Ware

Anybody know how to push the 3100D around? Mine isn't going to start (bad fuel, lines etc), and I need to get it pushed out into the driveway for pickup...


----------



## Ware

HoosierLawnGnome said:


> @Pete1313 @Ware
> 
> Anybody know how to push the 3100D around? Mine isn't going to start (bad fuel, lines etc), and I need to get it pushed out into the driveway for pickup...


Do you by chance have the manual handy? There should be a manual bypass valve somewhere that allows it to roll freely.

@MrMeaner


----------



## Ware

@HoosierLawnGnome here it is on page 4-5 of the service manual:


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

Thanks guys. Half an hr of reading through and searching the pdf werent finding it here....


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome

So, turns out, my instruction booklet has towing instructions for manual pushing on page 26. It has the same picture above, but my setup was not as pictured. My hydraulic bypass was a small screw on the hydraulic pump, just to the right and under one of the hoses. We rotated it a few times and were able to slowly push it out.

Perhaps mine had a new pump installed at some point? Who knows.

Anyways, it is off to the Toro servicer in the area to get ready for the fall.

5 weeks and 3 days until I (presumably) get this master's degree knocked out and can spend time in the yard more again.


----------



## MrMeaner

HoosierLawnGnome said:


> So, turns out, my instruction booklet has towing instructions for manual pushing on page 26. It has the same picture above, but my setup was not as pictured. My hydraulic bypass was a small screw on the hydraulic pump, just to the right and under one of the hoses. We rotated it a few times and were able to slowly push it out.
> 
> Perhaps mine had a new pump installed at some point? Who knows.
> 
> Anyways, it is off to the Toro servicer in the area to get ready for the fall.
> 
> 5 weeks and 3 days until I (presumably) get this master's degree knocked out and can spend time in the yard more again.


Glad you got it figured out... I only had an issue with my old 2000d triplex and the bypass valve was rusted shut. I felt like I was going to snap off the little metal tab I had to turn. Both 3100d I used to have never had any issues that needed towing.


----------



## bretben55

Sorry ZachUA, I forgot to respond. The broom is a 26" push broom from Lowes that I had in the garage. The angle brackets were left over from a Dish network satellite dish, the steel bars were from Lowes and then I had misc. bolts to attach everything.



ZachUA said:


> bretben55 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Another "*******" mod for my GM1600. Added a brush to the front, to lift the grass before cutting it. Got lucky, and it also flips up when not in use. Tried it out today, after already cutting the lawn earlier, it lifted more grass and cut off more! (Wife wasn't happy about taking the time to do a double cut)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get the brackets and parts?
> 
> I need to add this to mine!
Click to expand...


----------



## mbr961

Have the chance to buy a Flex21 for $900. New bedknife, transport wheels included. The reel was backlapped to the knew bedknife but not sharpened. Does it need to be? What else should I check out before buying? Currently using a Mclane and looking to upgrade.


----------



## Redtwin

Sounds like a decent price. As long as it cuts paper I wouldn't worry about grinding the reel.


----------



## mbr961

How much should the throttle lever on my Flex21 move back and forward? Just got it and it seems to barely move either way compared to other throttles I've used on other mowers.


----------



## Bombers

The throttle range on my GM1k is pretty short, but it's easy to dial it in once you get used to it.


----------



## Mathwiz

I agree that the throttle range is minimal. This begs the question: What is the optimal range for normal cutting? If you don't let it warm up a little, engage the reel and flip the go lever with the throttle on low speed, it will stall. As heavy as this thing is, I would prefer the lower speed. Does this affect the rpm's of the reel? Still in the "learning curve" with my GM1600. However, I do love mowing with this thing. The people walking by on my street can't quite figure it out.


----------



## Biggylawns

Anybody know what extreme undulation means? Since these are greensmowers, would any lawn that isn't perfectly flat use this setting? At my old house, I was using the middle setting but my yard was relatively flat. At my new property it seems I'm digging in with one end of the front roller at some points.

Note: I'm not mowing at green height so does it even matter at 1 inch?


----------



## Redtwin

@Biggylawns It means rolling smooth hills and humps. For uneven/bumpy lawns I would use the rearmost position but like you said, it's probably not as critical at 1" HOC. My yard is pretty flat but I do have some undulations in the back. I've tried the front position and it would dig in when I hit the humps. I use the middle and it is fine at 3/8" to 1/2".


----------



## killacam

Has anyone ordered engine parts from firedog? I wanted to get some gaskets and misc items for a kawasaki motor but wanted to know if their stuff was OEM parts or knockoff.


----------



## jsams22

2017 Greensmaster Flex 1800 14 blade owner. Was recently cutting at .400-500" with the clip gears in a 25A, 24B, 22C configuration no problem. All of a sudden I am getting wash boarding when cutting. I guess I could step the HOC down to .350" and see if that helps, but not wanting to maintain at that HOC throughout the summer. I am either going to invest in an 11 blade reel, or switch to an Allett/Swardman 

Question 1: I saw in the Greensmaster 1000/1600 versions there is a "Clip Kit" set to help with higher HOC. I have not been able to source anything for the Flex 1800. Does anything existing?

Question 2: Any recommendations on why I am all of a sudden wash boarding?


----------



## Redtwin

@jsams22 Do you have the option to verticut it? That took care of washboarding I had a couple of seasons ago. If not, the I would go the HOC reset route.


----------



## jsams22

Redtwin said:


> @jsams22 Do you have the option to verticut it? That took care of washboarding I had a couple of seasons ago. If not, the I would go the HOC reset route.


I guess I could get a sunjoe. Or do you mean use the groomer on the mower? Right now I am now using the groomer on the mower.


----------



## Redtwin

@jsams22 Oh yeah, if you have the groomer I would definitely take advantage of that.


----------



## Mathwiz

Redtwin said:


> @jsams22 Oh yeah, if you have the groomer I would definitely take advantage of that.


Pardon me for interrupting here but I have a question regarding the groomer. I have a GM1600 with a groomer on it and I don't really know how high or low to set it. I have an Accuguage for the HOC but I don't think it would work for the groomer. However, I do have a straight edge that will reach from the back drum to the front roller. I don't think it would have to be exact to the thousandth of an inch. Think is the operative word here. When I decide to use it, can you or someone tell me approximately where the tip of the groomer blade should be in relation to the line between the drum and the roller to perform correctly? I know I can buy an Accuguage for setting the groomer but I'm hoping that won't be necessary.


----------



## jsams22

Mathwiz said:


> Redtwin said:
> 
> 
> 
> @jsams22 Oh yeah, if you have the groomer I would definitely take advantage of that.
> 
> 
> 
> Pardon me for interrupting here but I have a question regarding the groomer. I have a GM1600 with a groomer on it and I don't really know how high or low to set it. I have an Accuguage for the HOC but I don't think it would work for the groomer. However, I do have a straight edge that will reach from the back drum to the front roller. I don't think it would have to be exact to the thousandth of an inch. Think is the operative word here. When I decide to use it, can you or someone tell me approximately where the tip of the groomer blade should be in relation to the line between the drum and the roller to perform correctly? I know I can buy an Accuguage for setting the groomer but I'm hoping that won't be necessary.
Click to expand...

It was recommended to me for groomer to be 1/2 the reel HOC. So if you are cutting .500", set groomer to .250"


----------



## Redtwin

What @jsams22 recommends sounds right to me. I would start there and you could always get more aggressive with it if needed. I have no personal experience since I use a verticutter but I believe most people who have groomers don't run them every single mow.


----------



## Mathwiz

Thanks, guys. Your info helps me figure this stuff out.


----------



## Romangorilla

Hey everyone,

I tried searching through the history of this thread before asking. But couldn't find an answer to my problem.

I'm extremely mechanically insufficient.
So bare with me as I try to explain the issue.

I just had an issue come up on my GM1000 this morning that I've never had before.

I turned the power switch to "on" the mower, pulled the cord, engine was purring like normal, then engaged the reel lever, then went to engaged the black throttle knob, but old girl just sat there. The engine sounded good, and everything seemed normal with the exception that it wasn't moving.

I had to manually push the mower a few feet while it was in the configuration before it would start moving forward on its own.

Almost as if the drum had to get moving before something would "catch" and begin operating as normal.

Anybody have any ideas?


----------



## TLE

Double check the belt is in decent condition, but I'm guessing you just need to re-adjust the tension on the belt due to natural stretch and then you'll be okay.


----------



## Redtwin

@Romangorilla Probably need new drive belt. It's a pretty easy procedures and I can take some photos later if needed.


----------



## TexasJohn

I've got the same issue, but I got the knob loose with that blaster spray, how do you adjust the GTC full down, its seems like it doesnt want to go down much THX



Ral1121 said:


> Encountered my first problem with my mower. I am not able to adjust my groomer down because the driver nut inside the adjustment knob is stripped or corroded. I tried soaking it in wd40 but it did not work. Anyone know how to take these apart? I can get the knob off but cannot get it apart.
> 
> Here is the knob
> 
> 
> 
> It is made up of three pieces and part 9.1 is bad. How do you get it apart?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I can't get it apart I will just order a new complete asm. Any help is greatly appreciated.


----------



## jsams22

Back with more questions. Kinda in a dilemma and would like some feedback.

Currently have a 2017 Flex 1800 - 14 blade reel. I am currently cutting at .375-.400" and its washboarding, I know the 14 blade is not designed to cut this high HOC.

Dilemma 1: Flex units do not have a "Clip Kit", so my only real option would be to move down to an 11 blade reel and hope this will allow me to cut at .350-500" with no washboarding. *Anyone able to comment on how much of a difference going from 14 to 11 blade reel would make?*

Dilemma 2: Wonder if an 8 blade reel off an 18" triplex head would fit on a Flex 1800? I have a call out to Toro technician to see if it would. I am not too optimistic on this route.


----------



## Don_Bass

Wat type of bed knife are u guys running on your gm1600? & where to purchase a new one?.


----------



## FATC1TY

Don_Bass said:


> Wat type of bed knife are u guys running on your gm1600? & where to purchase a new one?.


I use a high cut knife, and got it from a Toro dealer.


----------



## Mathwiz

Mine has the OEM thin knife. I purchased a replacement from R&R whenever I need to replace it in the future. I believe the OEM part # is 9015.


----------



## Don_Bass

FATC1TY said:


> Don_Bass said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wat type of bed knife are u guys running on your gm1600? & where to purchase a new one?.
> 
> 
> 
> I use a high cut knife, and got it from a Toro dealer.
Click to expand...

Wats the difference between that one & the tournament one


----------



## Don_Bass

Mathwiz said:


> Mine has the OEM thin knife. I purchased a replacement from R&R whenever I need to replace it in the future. I believe the OEM part # is 9015.


I was looking at them @ R&R & there's a few. Wats the difference between that one & the tournament one


----------



## Redtwin

Don_Bass said:


> I was looking at them @ R&R & there's a few. Wats the difference between that one & the tournament one


I believe the tournament one is thinner so it allows for a lower HOC but it isn't as durable.


----------



## Don_Bass

Redtwin said:


> Don_Bass said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at them @ R&R & there's a few. Wats the difference between that one & the tournament one
> 
> 
> 
> I believe the tournament one is thinner so it allows for a lower HOC but it isn't as durable.
Click to expand...

Which one would u recommend to buy? Current HOC is just a hair above 1/4in.


----------



## Redtwin

Don_Bass said:


> Which one would u recommend to buy? Current HOC is just a hair above 1/4in.


I would do the tournament cut. It is made for up to .5" so you will have some wiggle room if you need it.


----------



## Mathwiz

Don_Bass said:


> Mathwiz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Mine has the OEM thin knife. I purchased a replacement from R&R whenever I need to replace it in the future. I believe the OEM part # is 9015.
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at them @ R&R & there's a few. Wats the difference between that one & the tournament one
Click to expand...

This may be the info you are looking for:
https://turfproductscorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/Parts-Greens-Bedknives-Reference-Chart.pdf


----------



## Bombers

All the knives can go as low or high as your machine will go so physically they all can cut dirt or up to ~1 inch if you have a GM. The HOC Range is just the optimal range/best cut quality for that particular knife.


----------



## CChadwick1

Anyone been able to find the counterbalance weight that toro refers to in the service manual?


----------



## GrassClown

Trying to install a groomer on my flex 2100. What size socket is required for the bearing lock nut on the right hand side of the cutting unit? Also what size hex socket is required for the groomer drive gear that needs to be screwed to the reel shaft? For reference, I'm using Toro Form No. 3396-481 Rev B.


----------



## rhart

Quick question…I've got a new to me greensmaster 1000 11 blade reel with a smooth front roller. I went from a cali trimmer to this and and having issues. It cuts paper all the way across the reel and my hoc is 1/2" I have an accu gauge and it's right at 1/2" on both sides. When I cut I get these ridges or lines on the outside of each pass. When I go back for the next pass it almost looks lower than the last. Would a grooved front roller help with this or is there another issue?


----------



## ellsbebc

Stumbled upon two 2006 Flex 21's posted locally on FB marketplace for $750 total. I already have JD 220SL but this strikes me as a solid deal and could be a winter project for me.

Seller purchased these from golf course three years ago and mostly sat unused since then. Know I will need to address gas tank and carb on both machines plus missing air filter and cover on the one machine. No transport wheels for the second mower.

Appears to be 11-blade reels. Would prefer 8-blade cut I can always see how the 11-blade treats me first.

A couple questions:
1 - do those reels have a spin grind? I cannot tell if there is a relief cut. 
2 - anything specific about the Toro units I should investigate? One is model #04021 and the other is #04200.


----------



## csl23

rhart said:


> Quick question…I've got a new to me greensmaster 1000 11 blade reel with a smooth front roller. I went from a cali trimmer to this and and having issues. It cuts paper all the way across the reel and my hoc is 1/2" I have an accu gauge and it's right at 1/2" on both sides. When I cut I get these ridges or lines on the outside of each pass. When I go back for the next pass it almost looks lower than the last. Would a grooved front roller help with this or is there another issue?


Is this happening on every single pass on every section of your lawn or only in certain spots?


----------



## thelawnlife

ellsbebc said:


> Stumbled upon two 2006 Flex 21's posted locally on FB marketplace for $750 total. I already have JD 220SL but this strikes me as a solid deal and could be a winter project for me.
> 
> Seller purchased these from golf course three years ago and mostly sat unused since then. Know I will need to address gas tank and carb on both machines plus missing air filter and cover on the one machine. No transport wheels for the second mower.
> 
> Appears to be 11-blade reels. Would prefer 8-blade cut I can always see how the 11-blade treats me first.
> 
> A couple questions:
> 1 - do those reels have a spin grind? I cannot tell if there is a relief cut.
> 2 - anything specific about the Toro units I should investigate? One is model #04021 and the other is #04200.


toro greensmowers reels are setup for relief grinds only. not a bad deal assuming the engines/reels are good... most likely you can use one as a parts mower worst-case scenario.


----------



## rhart

csl23 said:


> rhart said:
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question…I've got a new to me greensmaster 1000 11 blade reel with a smooth front roller. I went from a cali trimmer to this and and having issues. It cuts paper all the way across the reel and my hoc is 1/2" I have an accu gauge and it's right at 1/2" on both sides. When I cut I get these ridges or lines on the outside of each pass. When I go back for the next pass it almost looks lower than the last. Would a grooved front roller help with this or is there another issue?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this happening on every single pass on every section of your lawn or only in certain spots?
Click to expand...

This is happening on every pass everywhere on the lawn.


----------



## bradleymichael

rhart said:


> csl23 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rhart said:
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question…I've got a new to me greensmaster 1000 11 blade reel with a smooth front roller. I went from a cali trimmer to this and and having issues. It cuts paper all the way across the reel and my hoc is 1/2" I have an accu gauge and it's right at 1/2" on both sides. When I cut I get these ridges or lines on the outside of each pass. When I go back for the next pass it almost looks lower than the last. Would a grooved front roller help with this or is there another issue?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this happening on every single pass on every section of your lawn or only in certain spots?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is happening on every pass everywhere on the lawn.
Click to expand...

Mine is doing the same thing. I have made sure the height of cut is even across the reel. Could it be the bedknife is not adjusted evenly across the reel? It cuts paper all across the bedknife.


----------



## csl23

I get a little bit of that on sections of my lawn that are not perfectly level. When the mower tips to far to one side or drops Into a dip this occurs for me. I also find that these areas become more apparent as the season goes on and the lawn become more thatchy/fluffy in certain spots. This cause further problems with the mower sitting perfectly flush on the ground. If this wasn't happening with the cal trimmer it could be because it's much lighter


----------



## ellsbebc

thelawnlife said:


> toro greensmowers reels are setup for relief grinds only. not a bad deal assuming the engines/reels are good... most likely you can use one as a parts mower worst-case scenario.


Good to know regarding the relief grind.

Seller says the both engines run and reels engage but second motor definitely need carb work. He runs landscape business so I'm partially trusting his knowledge and familiarity with small engines.

Will be sure to test both once I get opportunity to inspect them. Much appreciated.


----------



## thelawnlife

Make sure the kawi engines run with no smoke after warmed up alot of time the pistons rings are worn and will need to be rebuilt.


----------



## deanius

rhart said:


> csl23 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rhart said:
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question…I've got a new to me greensmaster 1000 11 blade reel with a smooth front roller. I went from a cali trimmer to this and and having issues. It cuts paper all the way across the reel and my hoc is 1/2" I have an accu gauge and it's right at 1/2" on both sides. When I cut I get these ridges or lines on the outside of each pass. When I go back for the next pass it almost looks lower than the last. Would a grooved front roller help with this or is there another issue?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this happening on every single pass on every section of your lawn or only in certain spots?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is happening on every pass everywhere on the lawn.
Click to expand...

I just went through this with my GM1000. The rear roller was not parallel to the reel/bedknife. So when I set the HOC on both sides, I was effectively twisting the whole machine. It was only off by 1/8", but significantly affected the quality of cut and was even worse on slopes. The steps for adjusting are in the service manual.


----------



## rhart

deanius said:


> rhart said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> csl23 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is this happening on every single pass on every section of your lawn or only in certain spots?
> 
> 
> 
> This is happening on every pass everywhere on the lawn.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I just went through this with my GM1000. The rear roller was not parallel to the reel/bedknife. So when I set the HOC on both sides, I was effectively twisting the whole machine. It was only off by 1/8", but significantly affected the quality of cut and was even worse on slopes. The steps for adjusting are in the service manual.
Click to expand...

Thank you sir I will check that out.


----------



## Redtwin

@rhart It could also be floating over the thicker turf. Usually a scalp or verticut will help.


----------



## csl23

deanius said:


> rhart said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> csl23 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is this happening on every single pass on every section of your lawn or only in certain spots?
> 
> 
> 
> This is happening on every pass everywhere on the lawn.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I just went through this with my GM1000. The rear roller was not parallel to the reel/bedknife. So when I set the HOC on both sides, I was effectively twisting the whole machine. It was only off by 1/8", but significantly affected the quality of cut and was even worse on slopes. The steps for adjusting are in the service manual.
Click to expand...

I've thought of trying this before but since my turf was unlevel I attribute most of my cut issues to that. But it couldn't hurt to check if rear roller is level regardless.
Did you use a bench plate or roller check device(https://accuproducts.com/mower-gaging-tools.html)

I read the service manual but is there a video anywhere demonstrating this procedure?


----------



## FATC1TY

csl23 said:


> deanius said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rhart said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is happening on every pass everywhere on the lawn.
> 
> 
> 
> I just went through this with my GM1000. The rear roller was not parallel to the reel/bedknife. So when I set the HOC on both sides, I was effectively twisting the whole machine. It was only off by 1/8", but significantly affected the quality of cut and was even worse on slopes. The steps for adjusting are in the service manual.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've thought of trying this before but since my turf was unlevel I attribute most of my cut issues to that. But it couldn't hurt to check if rear roller is level regardless.
> Did you use a bench plate or roller check device(https://accuproducts.com/mower-gaging-tools.html)
> 
> I read the service manual but is there a video anywhere demonstrating this procedure?
Click to expand...

That gauge from accuproducts is what you need, although, I've never done it myself.


----------



## rhart

FATC1TY said:


> csl23 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> deanius said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just went through this with my GM1000. The rear roller was not parallel to the reel/bedknife. So when I set the HOC on both sides, I was effectively twisting the whole machine. It was only off by 1/8", but significantly affected the quality of cut and was even worse on slopes. The steps for adjusting are in the service manual.
> 
> 
> 
> I've thought of trying this before but since my turf was unlevel I attribute most of my cut issues to that. But it couldn't hurt to check if rear roller is level regardless.
> Did you use a bench plate or roller check device(https://accuproducts.com/mower-gaging-tools.html)
> 
> I read the service manual but is there a video anywhere demonstrating this procedure?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That gauge from accuproducts is what you need, although, I've never done it myself.
Click to expand...

I took mine to our superintendent at the club and he had it all checked and everything was level. He was at a complete loss as to why it was cutting this way. So I think I'm going to be going back to the california trimmer where I had no issues.


----------



## deanius

csl23 said:


> deanius said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rhart said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is happening on every pass everywhere on the lawn.
> 
> 
> 
> I just went through this with my GM1000. The rear roller was not parallel to the reel/bedknife. So when I set the HOC on both sides, I was effectively twisting the whole machine. It was only off by 1/8", but significantly affected the quality of cut and was even worse on slopes. The steps for adjusting are in the service manual.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've thought of trying this before but since my turf was unlevel I attribute most of my cut issues to that. But it couldn't hurt to check if rear roller is level regardless.
> Did you use a bench plate or roller check device(https://accuproducts.com/mower-gaging-tools.html)
> 
> I read the service manual but is there a video anywhere demonstrating this procedure?
Click to expand...

I used a strip of MDF under the reel and did it on the cement garage floor. It can be done by one person, but much easier if someone else holds the reel down. I was going to ask my neighbor to help hoist it up on the table saw to use it as a bench plate, but the floor worked well enough.


----------



## Romangorilla

Hey guys!

I'm hoping some one with more mechanical ability can help me out.
Lately, when cutting the turf with my GM 1000, it seems ole girl is just not putting out enough power.
It still cuts the turf just fine, but I'm finding that no matter how much I increase the throttle, the power is just not there.
I feel like I'm almost pushing it along instead of holding on for dear life.

Any suggestions or previous experience with this type of issue?
It seems to be getting worse as in, the power of the engine seems to be getting less and less.

TIA


----------



## csl23

Sound like a belt may be stretched out so check the tension. Also make sure your reel is not to tight on the bed knife cause that causes the engine to work harder and will slow down the machine. 
Or you may need to increase the tension on the traction control.


----------



## Redtwin

@Romangorilla I'd start by checking to make sure the air filter is not clogging or needs replaced.


----------



## FATC1TY

Check your throttle cable as well.


----------



## FATC1TY

Whacked a roofing nail on the edge and apparently in and odd spot and it wedged. Bent the reel literally on the edge. Locked the reel up and wouldn't pass the bedknife.

Filed and filed and it was bent enough I couldn't get it to pass without lots and lots of noise. Snapped the belt I assume on my groomer too.

Toro was a month out on reels… and $50 more than RR. First time ever RR was better choice, got a reel in 3 days..

Apparently I'm really good at reel replacement, because I just swapped my reel and new bedknife in around 2 hours. Not something I'd care to brag about, it's not an overly fun job, but I did shorten it this time taking off more than I needed. A groomer makes reel changing much more challenging, that's for sure.


----------



## Romangorilla

Hey guys,

Me again. Again I feel the need to remind everyone that I’m not mechanical so when talking to me, you’re going to have to talk to me like I’m 5.
My GM 1000 has gotten worse.
Less and less power when mowing. and now on this last mow, white smoke started appear.
I have checked the air filter (it’s clean), I cleaned out the fuel filter. Checked all the belts (they look good).
But when I took off the air filter to inspect it, I noticed some oil in the opening that leads to the Carburetor.
Is this normal? If not normal, what can I do to remedy this?
I suspect the Carb needs to be replaced, but welcome ANY insight from the mechanically inclined in here.
TIA


----------



## Redtwin

The smoke and the oil in the carb is not a good sign. Check the oil to see what it looks like. Best case scenario is it may just be old with no viscosity and need changing or worst case you could be starting to have issues with the rings on the piston (see graphic above).


----------



## Romangorilla

Thanks for the info. @Redtwin 
The oil in the case definitely smells like gasoline. It’s filled to the appropriate level but definitely smells like gasoline.
Not sure if that helps the diagnosis but I forgot to add that earlier.
What rings on what piston are you referring to?
Lol again, you gotta talk to me like I’m 5 about this stuff.


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## Redtwin

The piston usually has 3 rings, one of which functions to keep oil out of the air/gas mix to the spark plug. When it starts going bad, the engine will lose power and start to smoke from oil getting mixed with the air/gas. That would also explain why the oil smells like gas. That’s also assuming the previous owner was smart enough not to fill the oil reservoir with gas. 









I only possess moderate mechanical skills so I’m sure I got part of my explanation wrong. If you are at the 5 year old level then I am a 5 1/2 year old explaining calculus to you. Bottom line… you might need to take the mower to a small machine shop. Sorry I could be more help. I was hoping it was something easier like a dirty filter.


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## thelawnlife

could very well be your piston rings are on the way out..get it to a small engine repair they can do a blow-by test to be sure.


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## Romangorilla

Thanks guys.
I appreciate the information.
Just dropped it off at STI here in Charlotte.
We’ll see what the diagnosis is.
I guess I’m lucky this happened right here at the end of the growing season.


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## FATC1TY

Call me weird, but I replaced my reel recently with a R&R reel because toro was like 3.5 weeks out for delivery.

these things are trash, and require way more work to mate the surfaces and get set up. I’ve been going back and forth with adjustments to dial in.

ill air filters and belts and stuff from them. Cutting surfaces- never again.


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## Redtwin

FATC1TY said:


> Call me weird, but I replaced my reel recently with a R&R reel because toro was like 3.5 weeks out for delivery.
> 
> these things are trash, and require way more work to mate the surfaces and get set up. I’ve been going back and forth with adjustments to dial in.
> 
> ill air filters and belts and stuff from them. Cutting surfaces- never again.


That's odd. I've always heard good things regarding their reels and bedknifes.


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## Mathwiz

Hmmm. I recently purchased a replacement bedknife from R&R. I was planning on getting a reel also for when the need arrived. Now I am wondering if I should get one from Toro. My closest supplier is Jerry Pate in Pensacola and I wasn't successful setting up an account earlier this summer. The form asked questions I didn't have answered for being a residential customer as opposed to a golf course, but I digress. Back on topic, I will be interested to see if you got things between your knife and reel squared away.


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## Flint_Hills

Ware said:


> I know several of us here run *Toro Greensmaster* reel mowers. This post is a resource to help you locate relevant manuals and documentation for your Toro greensmower.
> 
> Go here and enter your mower's model number (found on the serial number plate attached to the frame). The search result should list the serial number ranges for that particular model number. Make the appropriate selection to access things like the PDF *Operator's Manual* and *Parts Catalog* for your particular mower.
> 
> Go here to download the *Factory Service Manual* for your mower. This detailed manual will provide basically everything you need to know about taking care of your Greensmaster.
> 
> Current production Greensmasters have Subaru engines, but most that are currently on the secondary market are equipped with the *Kawasaki FE120 Engine* . The Service Manual for the Kawasaki engine can be found here (or several other places online with a quick Google search). Most common replacement parts for the Kawasaki engine are readily available from online parts warehouses like Jack's Small Engines.
> 
> If you are just looking for general *Greensmaster Specifications* (like HOC range, clip rate, etc.), you can find those here:
> Greensmaster 800/1000/1600 Spec Sheet​Greensmaster Flex Spec Sheet​
> If you are looking for part numbers for *Greensmaster Accessories* (like bedknife, reel and roller options), you can find those here:
> Greensmaster 1000 Accessories​
> Go here to learn more about increasing the HOC range of a Greensmaster Flex.
> 
> For common *aftermarket replacement parts and accessories*, I would suggest R&R Products. They make it pretty easy to find parts by selecting the make/model of your mower, then viewing the various parts schematics.
> 
> For *uncommon replacement parts and accessories*, you will need to contact the Toro Golf Equipment dealer that services your region. Note that Toro dealers who sell residential/commercial mowers do not have access to parts for Toro greensmowers and other "golfcourse equipment".
> 
> GSA Price List for some Toro parts - courtesy of @FedDawg555


Ware,
Would you happen to have a link or location of the legacy Flex 21 Service/Maintenance manuals? I'm hunting for the service manual for the 4202-27000xxx cutting unit. I am working on rebuilding the cutting unit and I am wanting to make sure I have all the correct parts ordered and specs for the rebuild. 
Thanks in advance,
BT


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## FATC1TY

Mathwiz said:


> Hmmm. I recently purchased a replacement bedknife from R&R. I was planning on getting a reel also for when the need arrived. Now I am wondering if I should get one from Toro. My closest supplier is Jerry Pate in Pensacola and I wasn't successful setting up an account earlier this summer. The form asked questions I didn't have answered for being a residential customer as opposed to a golf course, but I digress. Back on topic, I will be interested to see if you got things between your knife and reel squared away.


Call them. I’ve never had an issue calling customer service in parts. Have your part numbers ready. They’ll place and order and have it shipped out if it’s in stock. Tell them you want to set up a cash account. They will be extremely helpful, I buy stuff from jerry pate first and RR second.


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## FATC1TY

Redtwin said:


> That's odd. I've always heard good things regarding their reels and bedknifes.


Their reels have holes drilled in the insides and they’ll add a bolt and nut in spots to balance it. Never had that on the toro products. I also felt like the grind on the toros was much better.
RR was $50-60 cheaper, so it makes sense. Bedknife was pretty close to same price, within $5-7 bucks if I recall.


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## Mathwiz

Thanks @FATC1TY. I'll try again.


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## FATC1TY

Mathwiz said:


> Thanks @FATC1TY. I'll try again.


Yup! Report back if you have issues, I’ll find some numbers to pass along to get you taken care of. Just ask for customer service, and that you need to order some parts. Once with a rep, let them you want to do a cash account, and get some parts ordered. Pass along the CC numbers and shipping info and you are off to the races.


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## Ware

Flint_Hills said:


> Ware,
> Would you happen to have a link or location of the legacy Flex 21 Service/Maintenance manuals? I'm hunting for the service manual for the 4202-27000xxx cutting unit. I am working on rebuilding the cutting unit and I am wanting to make sure I have all the correct parts ordered and specs for the rebuild.
> Thanks in advance,
> BT


Sorry, I don’t - but I bet someone here does.


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## Goater90

Just took a look at a 1999 GM1000 this morning. Did my research on here and checked everything that was recommended.
A few concerns though:
1. When started it smoked quite a bit of white smoke for about 15 or 20 seconds or so until idled up and then it stopped. Created a pretty big cloud.
2. I pulled the fuel filter and there was lots of stuff in it. See picture below.
3. Would not cut any paper. We adjusted the reel to bedknife down two clicks and still wouldn't. Assume it needs a backlap? Buddy said he hasn't backlapped or checked real to bedknife since he bought it this spring.
4. Cracked belt cover on top, and one of the belts has a couple large cracks.

The good,
Reel and bedknife were replaced this spring, no damage to either. Started first pull. Ran good. Reel engaged and disengaged well. All other belts were in good shape. Reel did not have any play = good bearings. Reel spun freely by hand.

Guy is asking 2000CAD, but I got him down to 1500CAD, about 1100USD.

Is that smoking at start up normal or a concern. He claimed all the greensmasters he's had have done that. Not sure if he is BSing though.

Thanks for the help.


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## Redtwin

A little smoke at start up is not a big concern, especially if it hasn't been run in a while. Changing oil and filters is pretty standard on buying used as is replacing any worn belts. $1100USD sounds like a fair deal with recent prices but not sure what they are going for up in your area. If it has transport wheels and the catcher that is a great deal. The reel and bedknife look great.


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## Goater90

Redtwin said:


> A little smoke at start up is not a big concern, especially if it hasn't been run in a while. Changing oil and filters is pretty standard on buying used as is replacing any worn belts. $1100USD sounds like a fair deal with recent prices but not sure what they are going for up in your area. If it has transport wheels and the catcher that is a great deal. The reel and bedknife look great.


Usually up here in Canada they go for more just because there are far less of them than south of the border. I figured a bit of smoke would be ok, but when he started it in his garage it was puffing pretty hard, boarder line smoking out the garage. After a few seconds I made the comment to him of wow that's quite a bit of smoke, so he pushed it out the door and reved it up and it made a pretty good cloud outside hanging in the air and then stopped smoking after a few seconds. I wish I would have taken some video. He had mowed with it and washed it up the day before, so maybe he had it tipped over for a bit washing it but it had ran recently, and would of had to have ran and been driven into the garage after washing. He claimed the smoke was normal, but my old Briggs rotary doesn's smoke this much when started, haha. No smoke once going and seemed to run well. I had it tipped up to check the bedknife, and after when he started it back up again it made another pretty good cloud. I've tried to search some YouTube videos of people starting theirs up and none look like they smoke as much as this one did. Is a lot of smoke something people see after just having it tipped back on the handle bar for a bit? I just worry a piston ring could be going or something. Or maybe the symtoms could point to something with the carb? I am not very mechanically inclined, but have just read the horror stories. Sounds like those Kawasakis are quite expensive to rebuild. Thanks again for your input.


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## Redtwin

A lot of smoke isn't normal. I've had 4 machines with the FE120 engine and only one of them smokes at startup. That one has been abused so I know why it smokes. A puff of smoke at startup isn't a big deal especially on an older engine but if it smokes for more than a couple of seconds it might mean there is oil getting into the combustion. I can work on them but I am not an engine expert by any means. Hopefully someone can chime in who know more about these smaller engines.


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## Goater90

Redtwin said:


> A lot of smoke isn't normal. I've had 4 machines with the FE120 engine and only one of them smokes at startup. That one has been abused so I know why it smokes. A puff of smoke at startup isn't a big deal especially on an older engine but if it smokes for more than a couple of seconds it might mean there is oil getting into the combustion. I can work on them but I am not an engine expert by any means. Hopefully someone can chime in who know more about these smaller engines.


Thanks for sharing your experience. It's at least good to know that it isn't normal. I suppose I should pass this one up and keep looking. Would hate to have to drop a bunch of money into engine work.


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## Redtwin

I’d low ball it with the explanation that the engine is probably in its last days. I would still think $800 would be a good deal considering it has a new reel and bedknife.


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## Logan200TCP

Too much for a 23 year old walk greens mower as far as I'm concerned, especially with those issues you've noted. If that thing had been through a professional shop and was operating as expected, I would say go for it.
Worth noting and depending on your HOC, that 11 blade reel might be more trouble than it's worth. Lots of life on the reel, but no good for higher cuts.

Send me a PM if you are interested in a mower from the local Toro distributor.


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## SpartanDad

Hey everyone!

First time poster and could use a bit of advice. I purchased a 2001 Greensmaster 1600 back in September and am in the midst of a complete teardown / cleanup / restoration. Right now I'm checking all of the bearings seeing what all needs to be replaced, but the Power Shaft Bearing has me absolutely baffled.










Is it just me or does the grease seal look like it was installed upside down? The housing had a lot of old nasty grease which made me suspect that perhaps it wasn't installed correctly causing it to excessively leak out. I can't seem to find any good pictures showing what it's supposed to look like, but according to the service manual, the seals are supposed to be inserted from the flange end with the flat side pointing up. It doesn't specify which direction is "up" but I would assume that is the flange end.










Hoping someone with a bit more experience than I can let me know if this looks normal or not. I don't see these parts listed on R&R so I'm a little weary of taking it apart to see if it is indeed upside down.

Thanks!


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## Don_Bass

Anyone have A GM1600 Grass Catcher For Sale?.


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