# Tri-Plex Restoration Project? JD 2653A



## crussell

My dad has this diesel JD 2653A is the shop of his driving range. Long story short, it's not his but he thinks the owner wants to get rid of it for cheap (offering $500).

It's been parked for years, sounds like it might need a fuel pump, and I can only assume that the cutting units need some TLC. I remember mowing his range with this when I was back in High School, it was a sweet machine. Don't have a lot of experience with diesels but that's what having the right friends are for.

Worth the effort, or nah? I might have a use for it with my ball field project here: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=6243

Would this have any resale value in good operating condition?


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## Colonel K0rn

I think it would be a great addition for the field. Why not ask the owner if he'd be willing to donate it to the cause, and have some sort of tax write-off? You did do a fund raiser, so isn't there some sort of tax-exempt charity that could help out?


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## MasterMech

Great engines in those, fuel systems are a bit more complex than your average small engine. Nothing we can't work out with a video clip or two I'm sure.


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## crussell

@MasterMech Do these have the Yanmar? I haven't taken a close enough look at it yet to drill down into the specifics.

@Colonel K0rn I'm planning to buy and fix this up as my own, $500 seems like a fair price. If I can use it on the ball field, great. Part of me is wondering what the resale value would be if it was operating well.


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## MasterMech

crussell said:


> @MasterMech Do these have the Yanmar? I haven't taken a close enough look at it yet to drill down into the specifics.
> 
> @Colonel K0rn I'm planning to buy and fix this up as my own, $500 seems like a fair price. If I can use it on the ball field, great. Part of me is wondering what the resale value would be if it was operating well.


They are indeed a Yanmar. Same engine they used in the 455 garden tractors if I remember right.


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## silvercymbal

Looks like it could be a very fun machine, I hope you get it!


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## crussell

Only took me a year later, but I will be the proud owner of this machine!

Got it for $500, hoping to take it home this weekend.

Already starting to source anticipated parts and building a Bill of Materials spreadsheet. All I know is that is will supposedly start long enough to get it on a trailer... Have not had a close look at the cutting units, so fingers crossed that it is a soft blow to the checkbook! I'll try to keep you all updated on my progress. This should be an enjoyable winter project, and a nice addition to the Baseball Field.


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## MrMeaner

crussell said:


> Only took me a year later, but I will be the proud owner of this machine!
> 
> Got it for $500, hoping to take it home this weekend.
> 
> Already starting to source anticipated parts and building a Bill of Materials spreadsheet. All I know is that is will supposedly start long enough to get it on a trailer... Have not had a close look at the cutting units, so fingers crossed that it is a soft blow to the checkbook! I'll try to keep you all updated on my progress. This should be an enjoyable winter project, and a nice addition to the Baseball Field.


That's Awesome, Congrats!! Should clean up nice for you....

Diesel goes bad, would be a good idea to drain all the diesel and refill with fresh.


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## crussell

Thanks @MrMeaner

First action is certainly a bath. It's collected a healthy layer of dust over the years!

Will certainly be flushing the fuel system. I think I'm going to just bite the bullet and do full fluid replacement (fuel, oil, hydraulics, coolant, and all filters).

Question - These mowers are available with either 26" or 30" cutting units. Just looking at the photo, I'm inclined to think these are 30" units? I guess I'll find out for sure this weekend.

I can appreciate having the extra cutting width with 30" heads, but reels and bedknifes will be a little more costly should I have to replace any.


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## MrMeaner

Hard to tell reel size from the picture. What kind of trailer are you using to get it home? I know on my Toro 2000d with 27" reels barely fit on my 84" wide pipe top utility trailer.

Since it was used at a golf range it may have lower hours and the reels and bed knives may be in good shape. Give her a good bath and see what she looks like afterwards.

Congrats.. looks like you got a smoking deal and a good project to work on over the winter. Take some more pics once its cleaned up.


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## DJLCN

I pulled the front reels off mine and was easily able to get it on a 72" wide trailer.


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## crussell

Feeling like I stole this thing for $500.


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## crussell

Hey @MasterMech, wanted to loop you in on a couple questions.

So this thing started right up, only issue that I know of under the hood is a belt rubbing (smells like burning rubber). I'm feeling pretty good on getting the belt issue resolved and changing out all of the fluids, I think she's a runner.

Could use some advice on the cutting units. They all engage and spin, but upon closer inspection I'm seeing some reels with bent blades (see last photo above). I'm under the assumption they should be replaced, which I was mentally prepared for anyways. I've done reel replacements on my JD 220 & 260, but never on a cutting head unit like this. I know setting up the front and rear rollers parallel to the reel is important - Should I be buying a parallel gauge, bench plate, or anything else to accomplish this properly?


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## MrMeaner

Yes, you stole it for that price and its pure awesomeness!! With the new pictures the reels do in fact appear to be the larger 30" ones? What year and hours are on that thing?

I have a reel that's on one of my triplexes that's bent like that and it cuts just fine. The parallel gauge and bench plates are expensive, not sure I would spend the money on those now. I would take off the reels, grease everything and check/adjust the HOC, reinstall and backlap and see how they cut grass. Def drain the diesel and fill with fresh. Looks like its due for a new seat.


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## crussell

MrMeaner said:


> Yes, you stole it for that price and its pure awesomeness!! With the new pictures the reels do in fact appear to be the larger 30" ones? What year and hours are on that thing?
> 
> I have a reel that's on one of my triplexes that's bent like that and it cuts just fine. The parallel gauge and bench plates are expensive, not sure I would spend the money on those now. I would take off the reels, grease everything and check/adjust the HOC, reinstall and backlap and see how they cut grass. Def drain the diesel and fill with fresh. Looks like its due for a new seat.


Yup! - They are the 30" reels.

Seat has been ordered! Along with filters, battery, belt, and a couple other odds and ends for now.

I'm not sure on the year, but it is showing 3,646 hours on the meter. I'm guessing I can use the serial number to derive the year? The last service date, written on the Oil Filter was from 2004, it's been sitting a long time lol.

You have me hopeful that my reels are good "as-is". I need to remind myself that I now have 90" of cutting width to maintain over 3 heads, and I don't want to drive myself crazy by holding to the same standards as I would my walk behind mowers. A slightly bent blade shouldn't be a problem as long as the units are cutting well as a whole.

With that being said, I think I'll take the heads to the golf course down the road for some fresh grinds, and I'll install new bedknifes. If they tell me to replace the reels, I will do so.


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## The Anti-Rebel

crussell said:


> MrMeaner said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, you stole it for that price and its pure awesomeness!! With the new pictures the reels do in fact appear to be the larger 30" ones? What year and hours are on that thing?
> 
> I have a reel that's on one of my triplexes that's bent like that and it cuts just fine. The parallel gauge and bench plates are expensive, not sure I would spend the money on those now. I would take off the reels, grease everything and check/adjust the HOC, reinstall and backlap and see how they cut grass. Def drain the diesel and fill with fresh. Looks like its due for a new seat.
> 
> 
> 
> Yup! - They are the 30" reels.
> 
> Seat has been ordered! Along with filters, battery, belt, and a couple other odds and ends for now.
> 
> I'm not sure on the year, but it is showing 3,646 hours on the meter. I'm guessing I can use the serial number to derive the year? The last service date, written on the Oil Filter was from 2004, it's been sitting a long time lol.
> 
> You have me hopeful that my reels are good "as-is". I need to remind myself that I now have 90" of cutting width to maintain over 3 heads, and I don't want to drive myself crazy by holding to the same standards as I would my walk behind mowers. A slightly bent blade shouldn't be a problem as long as the units are cutting well as a whole.
> 
> With that being said, I think I'll take the heads to the golf course down the road for some fresh grinds, and I'll install new bedknifes. If they tell me to replace the reels, I will do so.
Click to expand...

Maybe I'm misunderstanding your statement, but the actual cutting width of the machine is only 84" with the overlap of the units.


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## joerob2211

How did you load it onto the trailer. I'll be picking up a toro 3100d pretty soon for our baseball field. Also did you just power wash it? The toro I am picking up has been sitting for a few years.


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## crussell

The Anti-Rebel said:


> Maybe I'm misunderstanding your statement, but the actual cutting width of the machine is only 84" with the overlap of the units.


Correct - There is 90" worth of reel/bedknife but with some overlap the actual cutting width is less.


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## crussell

joerob2211 said:


> How did you load it onto the trailer. I'll be picking up a toro 3100d pretty soon for our baseball field. Also did you just power wash it? The toro I am picking up has been sitting for a few years.


The loading actually went much easier than I thought it would.

The trailer had two steel ramps, but since this is a 3 wheeled machine, we had to use a board as our third ramp for the rear tire.

Also we had a clearance issue with the trailer fenders and the cutting units. We just laid some boards down on the trailer for the tires to drive on, and this gave us just an extra 1.5" that we needed for the cutting heads to clear above the fenders. Of course, you could also just take the cutting heads off.

I first rinsed it off with a garden hose to get rid of the cobwebs and heavy grass that had accumulated. Then I soaked it with some degreasing foam cleaner and followed it with a pressure wash.


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## crussell

Solved my "burning belt" issue.

Looks like the alternator bearing is shot, and the alternator pulley is not spinning. Explains the hot belt, also explains why it shut off on me yesterday when I turned too fast and my un-secured battery went flying into the street.

Rolling the dice on an Amazon replacement.

Spent some time prepping/priming/painting the operators area. Will look pretty fresh when the new seat gets here.

Ordered some new grip tape too.


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## Cheesetoast

subscribed!


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## Bmossin

This is cool!


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## MrMeaner

Any updates Crussell? Did you get it running enough to cut some grass?


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## crussell

Nothing too exciting to report just yet - I came home last night to a few Amazon boxes (battery, grip tape, yellow fuel can).

Still waiting for my Amazon replacement alternator.

I'll be in a little bit of a holding pattern until I get my John Deere parts order (New seat, filters, battery holder bracket, and misc.). I don't think these have even shipped yet.

In the meat time, I'm going to do a little disassembly of the heads and give some corroded parts a facelift. Still making arrangements to get the heads to the local golf course mechanic for them to grind/inspect.

Besides the alternator issue, all signs point to a strong running machine. I took it for a quick hot lap through the yard last weekend and it was cutting grass!


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## crussell

Has anyone changed the fan belt on a 2653A before???

The crankshaft pulley mounts directly to the hydraulic pump. There is no easy way to simply slip the belt off the pulleys, without unbolting the motor, removing the radiator, and a bunch of messing around. That's what I'm seeing anyways, hopefully I'm wrong.

I found this article that basically speaks to the same frustration I'm having.

http://gaturftech.blogspot.com/2014/11/john-deere-2653-belt.html

Do you think this Link Belt type is worth trying?


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## jimbeckel

You got a great deal on that mower, enjoy your new toy.


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## DJLCN

@crussell

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bxb5iFHmLry0RjA0dVNvWkFLajQ/edit

This should be the full technical manual (TM1554)


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## crussell

Thanks @DJLCN

Looks like replacing the belt, is in a fact a huge headache.

Have to drain the hydraulic system and coolant, then remove the hydraulic pump, oil cooler, and radiator...

I think I'll take my chances with the old belt haha. Already have a new one coming, I'll just keep it on hand in case I need to replace it one day.


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## DJLCN

crussell said:


> Thanks @DJLCN
> 
> Looks like replacing the belt, is in a fact a huge headache.
> 
> Have to drain the hydraulic system and coolant, then remove the hydraulic pump, oil cooler, and radiator...
> 
> I think I'll take my chances with the old belt haha. Already have a new one coming, I'll just keep it on hand in case I need to replace it one day.


You might consider something like this.

PowerTwist Plus V-Belt, 3L Profile, 3/8" Width, 5ft Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLG38JQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dliTDbWA3A2KW

EDIT, guess I should have read the blog link you posted. It suggested the same thing.


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## crussell

Found a little surprise when taking off the Yokes for a paint job today - Found a broken mount, looks like someone had attempted to braze weld it back together at one point.

Hoping I'll be able to weld it back up with some type of reinforcing plate for integrity, otherwise I may have to fab up a new mount.





Also I installed the new alternator, and am going to take my chances on the old belt.


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## DJLCN

@crussell On mine, I replaced all of the brass wear bushings in the lift arms and rear pivot through the hydro tank. I too found quite a few broken welds that had to be fixed in the lift arms and reel carriage. Note that the pins in the frame can be removed and rotated for a factory surface.


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## 2xjtn

Hey there crussell. I'm just across the border from you in Langley, B.C., but I'm originally from Whatcom County. Anyhow, I maintain a fleet of JD turf equipment including three (3) 2653A mowers, exactly like yours. These machines are pretty tough and for a baseball/sports field or even a high end lawn they give a pretty good cut. I've done everything to them over the years - reels, bearings, bedknives, etc, etc... pretty easy machines to work on you're willing to get your hands dirty. I wanted to mention also that these machines have common electrical issues that can be a nightmare to troubleshoot, so if you run into where the reels won't engage, or the engine won't restart after turning off, PM me and I'll give you some pointers where to go looking in the wiring.


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## crussell

2xjtn said:


> Hey there crussell. I'm just across the border from you in Langley, B.C., but I'm originally from Whatcom County. Anyhow, I maintain a fleet of JD turf equipment including three (3) 2653A mowers, exactly like yours. These machines are pretty tough and for a baseball/sports field or even a high end lawn they give a pretty good cut. I've done everything to them over the years - reels, bearings, bedknives, etc, etc... pretty easy machines to work on you're willing to get your hands dirty. I wanted to mention also that these machines have common electrical issues that can be a nightmare to troubleshoot, so if you run into where the reels won't engage, or the engine won't restart after turning off, PM me and I'll give you some pointers where to go looking in the wiring.


Thanks, that's good to know!

So far everything looks straight forward, with the exception of the fan belt (see previous posts). Not sure why such a common maintenance item was not designed for easier replacement, but I'll save that rant for another time!


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## crussell

Project Update.

Spent some time in the garage tonight - Things are going to come together nicely I feel like.

Remember the broken mount I found on the lifting arm? Well I cut it off, grabbed some 1/4" scrap plate and went to town. I think it turned out pretty well. I don't identify as any kind of master metal worker by an means, but I know enough to be handy. I'll get this primed and coated before reinstalling.







I've already been doing some prep/prime/paint - Here is how the other lifting arm turned out with Gloss Black:



A new seat should not be a pain in the @$$ but this was... The mounting hardware bolts the chair from the top, and the area underneath is so cluttered with hydraulic hoses/electrical, that it probably took me 30 minutes just to get the old chair off. Also the old seat had arm-rests (extra from John-Deere) so I transferred these over.



New battery, and new battery bracket/J-hooks.



I've managed to replace one section of Grip Tape - This is busy work that I would just rather procrastinate on. It's really the removing old grip tape part that I hate.



New Amazon Alternator:



Lastly - I've got two of the heads sitting on my garage floor taking up space. Need to take off the third and get these to the golf course mechanic soon, but I haven't called him yet. Maybe this weekend.


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## Bmossin

Very Cool! A friend of mine redid an old snapper rider, and instead of using grip tape, end ended up painting truck bed liner in place of where the grip tape would go. Did not have to worry about water or anything getting under the tape.


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## crussell

First off - Productive weekend. Got the fiberglass hood shined up with some restoration compound + wax, which made a noticable difference.





Re-assembled the front lifting arms after their paint job, then started into the cutting heads. Originally I just wanted to do some minor disassembly to freshen up a little paint, change the bedknives, and grease everything. BUT, my hopes are looking a little shattered, and now I'm at a costly decision making cross road...

First I noticed that two out of the three smooth rear rollers had lots of play, suggesting the bearings were out. This machine had been stored indoors for the last 15 years that I know of, but it is a 1996 model and I'm sure most of the cutting head parts are original.

When I got the first roller on the work bench, I found that the bearings were completely blown.. Beyond that, the retaining nuts on the shaft were so heavily rusted/corroded that I think the only removal methods would be destructive, and the shaft would not be salvageable.



So now I've added rollers to the shopping list, along with roller scrapers, bedknives, grass deflectors, and any other components that I've found to be aged and worn out.

Now I'm considering just adding to the pain and ordering 3 new reels + bearings while I'm at it. I figure if I'm going through the trouble of tearing the heads down, I might as well just do it all now. The current reels are questionable as it is with lots of bent blades and in need of grinding.

The dollar signs really start adding up on cutting heads. Spending the money for a full reel/bearing/bedknife/roller replacement on a walk behind reel mower is usually a pretty significant expense, so imagine multiplying that cost by 3 cutting heads.

I started some breaking them down last night. Took off the bed bars, and removed the bedknives. Ran into a few seized bedknife screws that I had to drill out, but once removed I prepped and primed the bars. My work bench is looking like a bomb went off.


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## MasterMech

Yeah, you're into 'er now baby! :lol: I would not try to salvage those reels as they are pretty much trashed. Even if you grind them true, they will be off balance and forever create headaches. Have you given some thought as to 5 vs 8 blade reels?


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## crussell

@MasterMech Thank you, I was leaning in that direction but needed someone to give me the final push. These triplexes are a slippery slope!

I'm open to advice on the blade count. I haven't established my desired HOC yet, but I have a rough idea. My plans are to use this on the baseball field, where I have currently been mowing the infield at 15/16" (max on my 260B), but I might start mowing the outfield now with this machine, which I'm thinking is better suited around 1.5". Obviously HOC is not something I plan to change on a daily basis, so I need to pick somewhere in the middle and stick with it. So I'd say my HOC range is between 1"-1.5".

The specs provide a clip frequency based on MPH, and the machine has a mowing speed of 0-5 mph.

Based on how I'm calculating this (see spreadsheet below) - The 5 blade appears to be sufficient for this HOC range. I've always understood that the clip rate should be similar to the HOC, does this seem appropriate for 1"-1.5"?? What if I decided to stick to the lower end of the range at 1", would a 5 blade appear sufficient?


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## MrMeaner

Getting to be quite the project!! It sounds like this little Chihuahua dog someone gave us... come to find out after taking it to the vet and $1000.00 later that free dog was quite expensive. Also reminds me of "free drinks" in Vegas 

On my Toro's they have a reel speed selector on the hydraulic manifold.. I would assume your JD has something similar. Also as far as mowing mph, they Toro have a throttle stop guage/screw you can set. Not sure how your yard is setup but I've never mowed with the pedal floored on my yard...now the ballfield may be a different story but unless its real flat and level I doubt you will mow at full speed.

As far as reel blades are concerned, I feel 8 blade reels are the most versatile if your cutting between .5" and 1.5" based on the Toro reel speed charts I've looked at.


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## crussell

I have yet, another question. Hoping @MasterMech @MrMeaner , or anyone else with some knowledge can help with.

Following the John Deere Manual for replacing the bedknife, it says to install it on the bed bar and then grind. I've replaced bedknifes on other mowers, but never had them ground. I always figured new was new, but I guess this could be a way to true up the cutting edge after it has been tourqed to spec on the bed bar... Is this somthing that is usually just ignored? Or is it important enough that I need to get them ground?

Also, I don't believe the 2653A has a reel speed adjustment for cutting operation. It does have a reverse valve for back lapping, and a speed adjustment, but I think this is only for "back lap mode". Still not sure what blade count to go with. I was thinking 5 but now @MrMeaner has me thinking 8.


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## crussell

Update:
Have all 3 heads almost all the way stripped down in the garage. I got one cleaned, prepped, primed, and a fresh coat of green paint. The garage is a warzone, can't wait for the dirty work to be done and get going on the re-assembly.



There was noticeable corrosion, mostly to the thin gauge sheet metal on the bottom side, but everything cleaned up pretty well. If you look in the garbage can I'm using as a table, you'll notice I've had a greasy mess on my hands. The worst of it is in the real bearing area, where the manual states to "fill" the bearing area with grease to prevent voids around the bearing. I also saw they require a No. 0 Grease, which is the consistency of Mustard (according to Wikipedia). Normal "All Purpose" grease is No. 2 and the consistency of Peanut Butter, which I think is what had been used. I was scooping out handfuls, and It got everywhere...



Finally, today I took one big step towards completion and placed my first order with RR.

I decided to break my total order into two separate orders. For now I have ordered all of the bearings, roller, scrapers, reel, bedknive, etc.. to rebuild one head. This way I can get the first one out of the way and make sure there are no other surprise parts that are needed, before I place the remaining order.

Oh, and I splurged and added the reel parallel setup tool to my RR order. Figure if I'm going to do this, I want to do this right.

Also hopped on Amazon and ordered some of this special No. 0 Grease (John Deere Corn Head Grease), new grease gun, and a magnetic angle finder for setting up heads with proper bedknife angle.


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## MrMeaner

crussell said:


> I have yet, another question. Hoping @MasterMech @MrMeaner , or anyone else with some knowledge can help with.
> 
> Following the John Deere Manual for replacing the bedknife, it says to install it on the bed bar and then grind. I've replaced bedknifes on other mowers, but never had them ground. I always figured new was new, but I guess this could be a way to true up the cutting edge after it has been tourqed to spec on the bed bar... Is this somthing that is usually just ignored? Or is it important enough that I need to get them ground?
> 
> Also, I don't believe the 2653A has a reel speed adjustment for cutting operation. It does have a reverse valve for back lapping, and a speed adjustment, but I think this is only for "back lap mode". Still not sure what blade count to go with. I was thinking 5 but now @MrMeaner has me thinking 8.


Not sure on the bed knife, my newest triplex came with new bed knives and they seemed sharp but never asked if they ground them or not. Ive never replaced anything on my other triplexes just done the back lapping.

I think you would be better off with 8 blade reels...seems to be the most versatile at your cutting heights. More so if you ever wanted to cut daily low. As far as speed adjustments go are you sure it only works in backslap mode? I assume it just reverses they way the hydraulic oil flows so should work forward and backwards. You want the back lap mode to be slow otherwise it will just sling backslap compound everywhere making a huge mess.


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## cglarsen

MrMeaner said:


> crussell said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have yet, another question. Hoping @MasterMech @MrMeaner , or anyone else with some knowledge can help with.
> 
> Following the John Deere Manual for replacing the bedknife, it says to install it on the bed bar and then grind. I've replaced bedknifes on other mowers, but never had them ground. I always figured new was new, but I guess this could be a way to true up the cutting edge after it has been tourqed to spec on the bed bar... Is this somthing that is usually just ignored? Or is it important enough that I need to get them ground?
> 
> Also, I don't believe the 2653A has a reel speed adjustment for cutting operation. It does have a reverse valve for back lapping, and a speed adjustment, but I think this is only for "back lap mode". Still not sure what blade count to go with. I was thinking 5 but now @MrMeaner has me thinking 8.
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure on the bed knife, my newest triplex came with new bed knives and they seemed sharp but never asked if they ground them or not. Ive never replaced anything on my other triplexes just done the back lapping.
> 
> I think you would be better off with 8 blade reels...seems to be the most versatile at your cutting heights. More so if you ever wanted to cut daily low. As far as speed adjustments go are you sure it only works in backslap mode? I assume it just reverses they way the hydraulic oil flows so should work forward and backwards. You want the back lap mode to be slow otherwise it will just sling backslap compound everywhere making a huge mess.
Click to expand...

I can confirm that the mower has reel speed adjustment independent of back lapping mode - knob adjusts from 1-6 forward or reverse. I just got mine a few months back and love it. All new fluids filters and about to get all reels ground. Then a paint refresh over the winter. These are greasy beasts for sure... So glad to see this thread!


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## crussell

@cglarsen Interesting - Since the adjustment controls the reel speed forwards and backwards, I guess now I'm curious why the manual puts so much emphasis on returning the flow control knob to the fully counter clockwise position except when backlapping? They don't seem to mention anywhere that this can be adjusted in forward direction to adjust clip rate.





In any case - I went with 8 blade reels which I think is the best fit for my HOC range.


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## cglarsen

@crussell That's true about the manual language. I think they intended for people to not forget to turn the speed back up following backlapping as mowing with the fluid flow throttled way down for extended periods could cause damage possibly. In any case, even at the max setting the reel speed isn't super fast. 8-blade is the best choice, I agree.

Which roller did you go with for the first head rebuild? I want to swap out the smooth front rollers that are not spinning as freely as I'd like even after cleaning and lubing. I plan to order grooved poly type from R&R most likely. They are incredibly expensive from JD ($270 each!).

Also how did you get this bracket support off the end of the roller? I removed the set screw and could not pry it apart any way I tried.


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## Pete1313

Interesting that the 2653A owners manual doesnt describe adjusting the reel speed. I briefly looked at the 2653B owners manual as well and couldn't find it. My 2500B has the same adjustment knob and backlap setup and in the 2500B owners manual it has a section on adjusting the reel speed.



http://manuals.deere.com/cceomview/OMTCU26781_L8/Output/Index.html?tM=


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## MrMeaner

Interesting...Once you get everything back together, I would run the machine and reels forward with it at full speed(fully counter clockwise)and see how it cuts. I think it will cut grass just fine for you so it will be a mute point. On my Toro triplexes, I run them all at 9-11(highest setting)and the cut has been fantastic on my Celebration Bermuda.


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## crussell

@cglarsen Those were a pain to get off - In fact, I still have two rollers ends that are stuck.

The best way I found was to unbolt the clamps and remove the roller with clamps still attached to the ends. I then put one clamp in my bench vise, with the roller hanging down below. I used a socket that fit over the grease zerk on the roller end, and started hammering (along with a combination of spray lubricant and a heat torch). If you get new rollers, it might just be worth ordering new brackets, they'll be a drop in the bucket compared to the rollers I think.

I'm hoping to re-use the front rollers, they are about the only items that appear to be in good shape. No slop in the bearings, and they still spin freely (mostly). I have the OEM front rollers which use the washers and spacers. The washers spin independently from the roller shaft, so even if the shaft were to stick, the washers would still "roll" along the surface.

I'm feeling more and more confident that the 8 blade reel at full speed will be just fine, especially if I'm mowing frequently and limiting the amount of grass blade being cut.


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## cglarsen

crussell said:


> @cglarsen Those were a pain to get off - In fact, I still have two rollers ends that are stuck.
> 
> The best way I found was to unbolt the clamps and remove the roller with clamps still attached to the ends. I then put one clamp in my bench vise, with the roller hanging down below. I used a socket that fit over the grease zerk on the roller end, and started hammering (along with a combination of spray lubricant and a heat torch). If you get new rollers, it might just be worth ordering new brackets, they'll be a drop in the bucket compared to the rollers I think.
> 
> I'm hoping to re-use the front rollers, they are about the only items that appear to be in good shape. No slop in the bearings, and they still spin freely (mostly). I have the OEM front rollers which use the washers and spacers. The washers spin independently from the roller shaft, so even if the shaft were to stick, the washers would still "roll" along the surface.
> 
> I'm feeling more and more confident that the 8 blade reel at full speed will be just fine, especially if I'm mowing frequently and limiting the amount of grass blade being cut.


Good call on getting new clamp/bracket on that end - they must be rusted solid.

What kind of grass are you going to be cutting? This machine really does best between 0.5 inch and 1.5 inch so the 8 blade is a great choice.


----------



## crussell

cglarsen said:


> crussell said:
> 
> 
> 
> @cglarsen Those were a pain to get off - In fact, I still have two rollers ends that are stuck.
> 
> The best way I found was to unbolt the clamps and remove the roller with clamps still attached to the ends. I then put one clamp in my bench vise, with the roller hanging down below. I used a socket that fit over the grease zerk on the roller end, and started hammering (along with a combination of spray lubricant and a heat torch). If you get new rollers, it might just be worth ordering new brackets, they'll be a drop in the bucket compared to the rollers I think.
> 
> I'm hoping to re-use the front rollers, they are about the only items that appear to be in good shape. No slop in the bearings, and they still spin freely (mostly). I have the OEM front rollers which use the washers and spacers. The washers spin independently from the roller shaft, so even if the shaft were to stick, the washers would still "roll" along the surface.
> 
> I'm feeling more and more confident that the 8 blade reel at full speed will be just fine, especially if I'm mowing frequently and limiting the amount of grass blade being cut.
> 
> 
> 
> Good call on getting new clamp/bracket on that end - they must be rusted solid.
> 
> What kind of grass are you going to be cutting? This machine really does best between 0.5 inch and 1.5 inch so the 8 blade is a great choice.
Click to expand...

Yea the ones that I managed to get separated were pretty corroded. Actually, the brackets cleaned up pretty well without any bad pitting, I think the corrosion from the shaft is what causes them to seize.

I'm cutting a mix of KBG/PRG/Weeds probably between 1"-1.5" HOC. You can check out the link in my signature for my baseball field project if you want to see what I'm up to!


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## cglarsen

@crussell My goodness, I salute you and your efforts. Well done all around! Love the flagpole!


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## crussell

Santa made an early stop by my place last week and delivered my first batch of goods. I spent most of my Friday afternoon rebuilding the first head. It's come together pretty nice, but I've still got a little more work yet.







Since I'm pretty much replacing everything except the front rollers, they really look out of place.



I've set the HOC at 1.05" which is the maximum height of my Accugauge (I would like to set at 1.25"). I've got the reel to bedknife clearance "close". I could not get it perfect without some very light contact, right now I'd say the reel "tickles" the bedknife, but I'm hoping a light backlap will hone this down.



The rear scrapers went on easy, but it's looking like I'll be running without front scrapers. I bought a Front Roller Scraper kit (3 EA) however they did not fit properly with my front roller. Long story short, the tines on the scraper did not match up with the groove spacing on my rollers. Unfortunately I tried modifying a scraper by cutting off a tine in hopes of making it work, but it didn't and now I can't return them... Any other 2653 guys out there need a front scraper kit?? Looks like this:


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## jhealy748

Awesome work! I am doing pretty much the same complete restore project as well and am at about the same stage so this is great to watch. I just sand blasted and painted my reel housings this weekend so will start reassembly this week. I also replaced pretty much everything other than the front rollers. I am thinking about taking a wire wheel to them just so they don't look so bad compared to everything else but man that seems like a lot of work for cosmetic only repairs! Mine is a 2315A fairway mower so I have to do 5 reels :shock: keep up the good work! I will get my pictures up today on my lawn journal if you want to check it out!https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=12192


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## jhealy748

Just out of curiosity have you had to replace any grease zerks on your mower yet? I am having a hard time finding zerks that fit. My local auto store says they are 7mm and all I can find are 6 8 or 10mm. Does JD have their own size of zerks that you have to buy from them??


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## crussell

@jhealy748 Sweet mower! I'm sorry you are going through the same pain and suffering, especially for 5 reels (my condolences to your wallet), but I must say that misery loves company!

I have not replaced any grease zerks yet, but I would look at ordering them from R&R if you are using them for your replacement parts.


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## jhealy748

I am using them and have been very happy so I will have to see what I can find on there. I got one of my reels all back together last night and man I was sure thinking they were going to go back together a lot easier than that!! It shouldn't surprise me anymore lol! It is a labor of love I suppose since we can't really be out working in the yard anymore this season. BTW where is ferndale? It seems to me your across the sound but maybe I am mixed up!


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## crussell

@jhealy748 Close, I'm in the very NW corner, about 1.5 hours North of Seattle and only 15 minutes from Canada.


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## joerob2211

I just mowed with a 1999 toro 3100d and the riding reel mower is so awesome. It will make the field you work on look so much better. This is cut at about 1.75 and the ryegrass isn't completely mature yet.


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## MrMeaner

@crussell How is the restoration project progressing these days?


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## crussell

MrMeaner said:


> @crussell How is the restoration project progressing these days?


It turned out great, but also kind of a sore subject for me to talk about right now... haha.

After months of blood, sweat, and beers (and a lot of $$$), I took it out to the ball field a couple weeks ago while we were having a field day, and invited my dad to come hang around. I didn't even get the last ratchet strap off the trailer and he was already in the seat turning the key. Long story short, he mowed the entire field and I never got a turn. But, it mowed great, and dad enjoyed it. Looking forward to the growing season and getting some seat time.

I'll try and get some final photos posted this weekend it the weather stays nice.


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## MrMeaner

crussell said:


> MrMeaner said:
> 
> 
> 
> @crussell How is the restoration project progressing these days?
> 
> 
> 
> It turned out great, but also kind of a sore subject for me to talk about right now... haha.
> 
> After months of blood, sweat, and beers (and a lot of $$$), I took it out to the ball field a couple weeks ago while we were having a field day, and invited my dad to come hang around. I didn't even get the last ratchet strap off the trailer and he was already in the seat turning the key. Long story short, he mowed the entire field and I never got a turn. But, it mowed great, and dad enjoyed it. Looking forward to the growing season and getting some seat time.
> 
> I'll try and get some final photos posted this weekend it the weather stays nice.
Click to expand...

Awesome!! Im sure you will get plenty of seat time come spring and summer. Looking forward to some pics


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## MPO2

Hey guys, I recently purchased a 2004 2653A and am planning to get her restored and hopefully looking half as great as what you all have done on your projects. I feel pretty lucky b/ mine appears to be in good shape with only 2,009 hours and came off a small college's baseball field.

While doing research on the 2653A, I came across this thread and really enjoyed hearing about these projects going on. As time progresses with my project, I'll post some of my experiences and may ask a few questions along the way. Good luck gents!


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## crussell

@MPO2 Good luck bud! Very cool machines and simple enough to work on, but the $$ start adding up quick when you start getting into the reels.


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## MasterMech

crussell said:


> @MPO2 Good luck bud! Very cool machines and simple enough to work on, but the $$ start adding up quick when you start getting into the reels.


And hydraulic hoses. Big expense that not everyone considers on an older hydro machine. All of the hoses are liabilities.


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## MPO2

Great, thank you for that feedback guys! I'm looking forward to diving in.


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## MPO2

crussell said:


> Project Update.
> 
> Spent some time in the garage tonight - Things are going to come together nicely I feel like.
> 
> Remember the broken mount I found on the lifting arm? Well I cut it off, grabbed some 1/4" scrap plate and went to town. I think it turned out pretty well. I don't identify as any kind of master metal worker by an means, but I know enough to be handy. I'll get this primed and coated before reinstalling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've already been doing some prep/prime/paint - Here is how the other lifting arm turned out with Gloss Black:
> 
> 
> 
> A new seat should not be a pain in the @$$ but this was... The mounting hardware bolts the chair from the top, and the area underneath is so cluttered with hydraulic hoses/electrical, that it probably took me 30 minutes just to get the old chair off. Also the old seat had arm-rests (extra from John-Deere) so I transferred these over.
> 
> 
> 
> New battery, and new battery bracket/J-hooks.
> 
> 
> 
> I've managed to replace one section of Grip Tape - This is busy work that I would just rather procrastinate on. It's really the removing old grip tape part that I hate.
> 
> 
> 
> New Amazon Alternator:
> 
> 
> 
> Lastly - I've got two of the heads sitting on my garage floor taking up space. Need to take off the third and get these to the golf course mechanic soon, but I haven't called him yet. Maybe this weekend.


Crussel, very impressive here!

With regards to removing the hydraulic system from the outside of the reel housing to work on those units on a workbench, do you have to drain the hydraulic system prior to removing from each side of the reel housing or does that simply unscrew from those units? Wanting to avoid an unexpected shot of hydraulic fluid to the face!


----------



## crussell

MPO2 said:


> Crussel, very impressive here!
> 
> With regards to removing the hydraulic system from the outside of the reel housing to work on those units on a workbench, do you have to drain the hydraulic system prior to removing from each side of the reel housing or does that simply unscrew from those units? Wanting to avoid an unexpected shot of hydraulic fluid to the face!


Nope no need to touch the hydraulic system, the motor simply unbolts from the bearing housing (2 nuts each to remove).

But - The housing should be FULL of grease. Beware that things might get messy.


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## MPO2

crussell said:


> MPO2 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Crussel, very impressive here!
> 
> With regards to removing the hydraulic system from the outside of the reel housing to work on those units on a workbench, do you have to drain the hydraulic system prior to removing from each side of the reel housing or does that simply unscrew from those units? Wanting to avoid an unexpected shot of hydraulic fluid to the face!
> 
> 
> 
> Nope no need to touch the hydraulic system, the motor simply unbolts from the bearing housing (2 nuts each to remove).
> 
> But - The housing should be FULL of grease. Beware that things might get messy.
Click to expand...

Thank you crussell for the info on the reels units and for the advice on the hydraulic hoses MasterMech. I looked hard through the hoses and they look to be in good shape with some actually looking to be somewhat new.

When removing the reels, they came off without a hitch. Interesting though as two of the reels housings had what appeared to be regular engine oil inside and the third had really thick grease as I would have normally expected. Anything I should be worried about there?

I gave her a really good power wash today and after cleaning years of dirt and grease off, I got excited b/ I think it might be in pretty good shape for a 2004. I also gave in and purchased all JD filters, oil, hydraulic fluid, coolant cleaner/coolant and greases to get everything changed out and updated.

As I'm still clueless as to what a good vs bad reel and bed knife look like, do you guys know what I'm up against here? Hoping I can get a few years out of these but will purchase if needed.

Thoughts all around? Thanks in advance!


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## crussell

MPO2 said:


> When removing the reels, they came off without a hitch. Interesting though as two of the reels housings had what appeared to be regular engine oil inside and the third had really thick grease as I would have normally expected. Anything I should be worried about there?
> 
> I gave her a really good power wash today and after cleaning years of dirt and grease off, I got excited b/ I think it might be in pretty good shape for a 2004. I also gave in and purchased all JD filters, oil, hydraulic fluid, coolant cleaner/coolant and greases to get everything changed out and updated.
> 
> As I'm still clueless as to what a good vs bad reel and bed knife look like, do you guys know what I'm up against here? Hoping I can get a few years out of these but will purchase if needed.


Well that's interesting - The grease that is supposed to be used in the bearing housings is a NLGI #0 (thicker than motor oil, but thinner than the "thick grease" you probably found). A #0 is supposed to be a similar consistency to brown mustard. The grease I found for this (per the manual) was John Deere "Corn Head Grease".

Those reels look to be in pretty good shape. As far as bed knife's, they are relatively cheaper to replace (~$45 EA) so you won't break the bank if you decide to put some fresh ones on.


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## Colinwjholding

Love this thread!

I recently rescued and pieced together a jacobsen greens king 6. I bought two, one a five and the other the six. I interchanged some parts to get one good working unit then tore the other one down keeping all the parts.

I have 5 sets if reels
2 sets of 11 blade
1 7 set of 9 blade
2 sets of verticutting reels.

Keep up the great work everyone nice job saving good units.


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## MPO2

Okay crew, so I am having an issue I can't figure out. I'm having issues with the mower slowly reversing with the hydrostatic drive pedals in what appears to be the neutral position. If I slightly put my foot on the forward pedal, I can get it to stop but not ideal. Even with the parking break set, it still creeps backwards but I'll work on tightening the parking break next. According to the manual, it says the linkages need adjusting but for the life of me, I've tried loosening/tightening where it would be applicable on the pedal linkages and it still creeps backwards. With the spring, I can't find where to adjust either. Anyone had this issue or any thoughts?


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## crussell

Here is what I found in the Technical Manual - Which by the way if you would like a copy just shoot me a DM with your email address and I'll send it to you.


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## tnbison

Anyone have issues with cornhead grease leaking from their support housing cap on the 2653? There is a recessed groove on the inside corner of the cap that looks like it could take an o-ring but nothing shown in the manual and/or parts diagram.


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## crussell

tnbison said:


> Anyone have issues with cornhead grease leaking from their support housing cap on the 2653? There is a recessed groove on the inside corner of the cap that looks like it could take an o-ring but nothing shown in the manual and/or parts diagram.


No O-Ring that I've ever seen, and yes, mine used to leak very small amounts. Not enough to ever drip onto the floor, but enough that I could take a shop towel and wipe a film of grease off the bottom of the housing.


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## thebmrust

As of now, would your say the $500 was a good investment? Should others follow suit and do a restoration or bite the bullet and get a lower maintenance (newer/regularly maintained/higher initial cost) unit?

Would you be willing to share the over all cost of replacement parts?


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## Ren

MasterMech said:


> And hydraulic hoses. Big expense that not everyone considers on an older hydro machine. All of the hoses are liabilities.


truth... i had a 1948 Ford 8n tractor and it used some oddball hydraulic fittings, when the hoses started leaking it was a challenge to find new fittings (and $$$). I found 4, replaced the worst 2 hoses and then sold the machine. :mrgreen:


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## MPO2

Hey JD 2653A gang! As a follow up to some of my past posts, I've got the 2653A running great! I actually had a JD technician make a "house call" and spent about 6 hours replacing some fuel lines, adjusting the parking break, the hydrostatic drive, showing me how to backlapp, and tuning the engine among a few other items. It runs and cuts great now and I'm loving mowing as seen by my goofy smile the entire time I'm mowing...my wife thinks I'm eat up with it! 
I'm looking forward to this winter where I plan on a full paint restoration to get her looking like she just rolled off the showroom floor!

Hope everyone else's projects are going well and would love to see some progress pics!


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## raymond

Very cool - congratulations - enjoy the product of your hard work :bd:


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## MPO2

Hey 2653 crew, when you all make your reel to bed knife adjustments, are you adjusting to the JD recommendation to have a .05mm feeler gauge spacing in between them or 'eyeballing' it with slight contact? I certainly don't want to put additional wear and tear on the reel or bed knife however. Thoughts all around?


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## crussell

It is a dream of mine to one day adjust a reel to factory tolerance but it has never been a reality for me. I have tried setting them with specified feeler gauge but there is always a few blades that don't quite cut paper.

I tighten the adjustment as little as possible until all blades cut paper, which usually means some slight contact.

Since most of us don't have a reel and bedknife grinder in our garage, I think some slight contact is a forgivable expectation.


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## crussell

BTW @MPO2 congrats on the mower! I wish I still had mine.


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## MPO2

Thank you crussel! I'm in that same boat of cutting paper on some blades and not on others. I'll give 'slight contact' a shot and see how it goes.

What, did you get rid of your 2653A?!?!? NOOOOOO! Did you finally finish the restore to showroom quality as your pictures appeared you were heading?


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## crussell

MPO2 said:


> Thank you crussel! I'm in that same boat of cutting paper on some blades and not on others. I'll give 'slight contact' a shot and see how it goes.
> 
> What, did you get rid of your 2653A?!?!? NOOOOOO! Did you finally finish the restore to showroom quality as your pictures appeared you were heading?


Ha well it wasn't showroom quality, but it was fresh. Rebuilt the cutting units with new reels/knifes/rollers, and the machine ran awesome - But long story short, I bought it for the baseball field I help with but after COVID happened we weren't doing anything with the field. Mower sat around for a year collecting dust. A local rugby club just redid their fields and was looking for a triplex, so I sold it to a good home.

and now I wish I still had it... Looking for another!


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## CoachLarry

I have a 20 year older A and a three year old B with QA7's on two different fields. The golf course mechanics i know always send them out with the blades singing a bit. I use the feeler gauge but getting 100% uniformity across the reel never happens. I go for better QOC. The Deere reels are the strongest around. The old A is still going pretty strong. Only had to change a starter about five years ago, a return to neutral spring, and the module blew last year. I need to rebuild the rollers one of these days or talk the facility into getting QAs. Nice to see a post about these mowers; lots of ball fields have them sitting dead in a corner. This is our B on delivery day.


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## crussell

That B is B-eautiful!

I started listening to the Reel Turf Tech podcast, and I've heard from several of guest Equipment Managers that they set up their reels with light contact, which should make us all feel better.


----------



## CoachLarry

crussell said:


> That B is B-eautiful!
> 
> I started listening to the Reel Turf Tech podcast, and I've heard from several of guest Equipment Managers that they set up their reels with light contact, which should make us all feel better.


Thank you! We got that B from the insurance company when our old A burned in the SoCal wildfire. I had only paid 4K for the A but they said they only replace with new equipment so we got a brand new 35k mower! The QA reels changed my life, haha.


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## socerplaye

@CoachLarry I just got a 2653b myself, though it's not brand new. Looking into getting grass catchers for it. How are you liking yours? Did you add them after the fact or did the dealer set them up?

Thanks,

Billy


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## CoachLarry

Duplicate post, sorry. Nice! We ordered our with the catchers, so the dealer did the hooks. They are useful for our infields but they are much too small for any serious pickup. As long as I'm not cutting more than an 1/8 inch off i can do about 7500 sq feet or so without dumping. They can spill out the sides if they get too full. I would give them a B grade for our purposes.


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## CoachLarry

socerplaye said:


> @CoachLarry I just got a 2653b myself, though it's not brand new. Looking into getting grass catchers for it. How are you liking yours? Did you add them after the fact or did the dealer set them up?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Billy


Nice! We ordered ours with the catchers, so the dealer did the hooks. They are useful for our infields but they are much too small for any serious pickup. As long as I'm not cutting more than an 1/8 inch off i can do about 7500 sq feet or so without dumping. They can spill out the sides if they get too full. I would give them a B grade for our purposes.


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## socerplaye

@CoachLarry thanks for the info. Hoping they'll come in handy for scalping and times when I've let the grass get away from me.


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## brownnl

crussell said:


> Thanks @DJLCN
> 
> Looks like replacing the belt, is in a fact a huge headache.
> 
> Have to drain the hydraulic system and coolant, then remove the hydraulic pump, oil cooler, and radiator...
> 
> I think I'll take my chances with the old belt haha. Already have a new one coming, I'll just keep it on hand in case I need to replace it one day.


Did you ever change the fan belt?

Alternator on mine seized today and torched the belt before I had a chance to diagnose.

It looks like a massive pain in the @ss to get access to the bottom pulley. I'm going to check to see if I can pull the hydro pump out of the way with everything attached to make a "gap" large enough to get a belt thru it… or try one of the "chain" style belts linked below.

Doh… looks like late season scalp is still in play.


----------



## crussell

brownnl said:


> crussell said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks @DJLCN
> 
> Looks like replacing the belt, is in a fact a huge headache.
> 
> Have to drain the hydraulic system and coolant, then remove the hydraulic pump, oil cooler, and radiator...
> 
> I think I'll take my chances with the old belt haha. Already have a new one coming, I'll just keep it on hand in case I need to replace it one day.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you ever change the fan belt?
> 
> Alternator on mine seized today and torched the belt before I had a chance to diagnose.
> 
> It looks like a massive pain in the @ss to get access to the bottom pulley. I'm going to check to see if I can pull the hydro pump out of the way with everything attached to make a "gap" large enough to get a belt thru it… or try one of the "chain" style belts linked below.
> 
> Doh… looks like late season scalp is still in play.
Click to expand...

Once I saw what an ordeal a belt replacement was, I put the new spare in a box and stayed the heck away from that undertaking.

Sorry to hear about yours. If it was me, I'd at least try the chain style before getting into that mess.


----------



## brownnl

crussell said:


> brownnl said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> crussell said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks @DJLCN
> 
> Looks like replacing the belt, is in a fact a huge headache.
> 
> Have to drain the hydraulic system and coolant, then remove the hydraulic pump, oil cooler, and radiator...
> 
> I think I'll take my chances with the old belt haha. Already have a new one coming, I'll just keep it on hand in case I need to replace it one day.
> 
> 
> 
> Did you ever change the fan belt?
> 
> Alternator on mine seized today and torched the belt before I had a chance to diagnose.
> 
> It looks like a massive pain in the @ss to get access to the bottom pulley. I'm going to check to see if I can pull the hydro pump out of the way with everything attached to make a "gap" large enough to get a belt thru it… or try one of the "chain" style belts linked below.
> 
> Doh… looks like late season scalp is still in play.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Once I saw what an ordeal a belt replacement was, I put the new spare in a box and stayed the heck away from that undertaking.
> 
> Sorry to hear about yours. If it was me, I'd at least try the chain style before getting into that mess.
Click to expand...

I ordered a chain belt… fingers crossed


----------



## crussell

@brownnl Good luck, and let us know how it works, I'm curious to find out.


----------



## brownnl

Link belt worked… many curse words, and skinned knuckles/fingers later.

Lessons learned:
1. They're directional. I spent >1hr fighting with it and installed it reverse. 
2. They have some stretch… you want them tight. When in doubt remove another link.
3. I'm happy I bought a 5ft length. Belt installed is only ~3ft, but extra length helps install immensely. It's a pain to thread the belt over the bottom pulley. 
4. Rhino ramps were a great investment. They're perfect for access to the underside of the mower.

It seems pretty robust. I expect it to hold up after getting it installed properly. It worked fine for my 20-25mins of mow time late this evening.


----------



## crussell

brownnl said:


> Link belt worked… many curse words, and skinned knuckles/fingers later.
> 
> Lessons learned:
> 1. They're directional. I spent >1hr fighting with it and installed it reverse.
> 2. They have some stretch… you want them tight. When in doubt remove another link.
> 3. I'm happy I bought a 5ft length. Belt installed is only ~3ft, but extra length helps install immensely. It's a pain to thread the belt over the bottom pulley.
> 4. Rhino ramps were a great investment. They're perfect for access to the underside of the mower.
> 
> It seems pretty robust. I expect it to hold up after getting it installed properly. It worked fine for my 20-25mins of mow time late this evening.


Oh man, glad it worked out! I definitely would not have considered wanting a longer length to help thread the belt through, but that makes sense.

Even though you had to do it twice at the expense of your knuckles, you are probably still hours ahead of doing the stock belt replacement!


----------



## Amoo316

@crussell this thread hurts my soul, only because I read this entire thread, and I currently follow the field thread. Knowing you're not out there on this thing all year right now sucks.


----------



## crussell

@Amoo316 Appreciate you following along with the ballfield journal.

It's a bummer, I wish I still had the mower, but there are worse things than walking behind a greensmower. Hopefully another one will come around, but until then I could use the exercise!


----------



## MPO2

@crussell , I hope you find another 2653 soon!

Also, with regard to adjusting the reel to bed knives, how often do you all make those adjustments? It seems like I have to make adjustments on one or two reels almost every time I mow. Thoughts?


----------



## cglarsen

MPO2 said:


> @crussell , I hope you find another 2653 soon!
> 
> Also, with regard to adjusting the reel to bed knives, how often do you all make those adjustments? It seems like I have to make adjustments on one or two reels almost every time I mow. Thoughts?


Yes, me too particularly in the second half of the growing season when the growth is not as forgiving in final cut appearance. I chalk it up to the yellow undercanopy that develops, causes floating, etc. Mine always seems to cut better in spring/early summer when all the growth is soft and green shoots.

Hey, what did your technician do to correct your creeping problem? I have the same but in the forward direction. I've adjusted the linkages to no avail. Even put an extra spring on it but I have not gone after the parking brake yet. I'm curious what your solution was.


----------



## MPO2

I messed with the linkages prior to him coming and think he adjusted the neutral switch and the eccentric (H) nut which fixed my issue. See pics below from the service manual and hope that helps sir!


----------



## ag_fishing

Looks like I might be joining this club soon too. Currently have a greensmaster 1000 that I mow about 8-10,000 square feet with and have another 20,000sq feet I use a zero turn on. I found a 2653A in really good shape that I might be adding to the fleet to replace the zero turn


----------

