# TruCut Reel Mower Questions



## dfw_pilot

Do you have a TruCut reel mower and have a question about working on it? Do you have something to share? Ask or share here.​


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## Gopwh2020

There's a guy locally who is selling this TruCut for $150. He says the blades need sharpening. I haven't looked at it yet, but he says it runs fine. Looks a little beat up to me, but is it worth the entry price to use on my bermuda and zoysia? Thx.


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## SGrabs33

Is it a craigslist ad? Just trying to see if there are more pictures to check out.

First impressions. 
150 is a pretty good price if it's working
It is the older model
Tires are worn down quite a bit, meaning it's just been used a lot.


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## Gopwh2020

Not a craigslist ad but another local group. Here's the other pic.


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## J_nick

SGrabs33 said:


> Is it a craigslist ad? Just trying to see if there are more pictures to check out.
> 
> First impressions.
> 150 is a pretty good price if it's working
> It is the older model
> Tires are worn down quite a bit, meaning it's just been used a lot.


+1 on everything Scott said. My first impression was how bald the back tires were. It has some miles one it. Definitely check the reel and bedknife. If you needed to replace that you could easily be spending $300+ for new parts. I searched the Atlanta Craigslist and saw some McLane's around the same price that looked fresher. I'm a fan of the TC's over the McLane's because they have more height adjustments, but quite a few members on here have beautiful McLane cut lawns.


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## SGrabs33

Doesn't look too bad for 150 if it's functional. I'd say take a stab at it and try it out.

If you go check it out just make sure there are not any large dings in the bed knife or the reel itself. If he said it needs sharpening that may be the reason. Or it might just need a good backlapping and a reel to bedknife adjustment to cut well. It's always hard to know how much the seller knows about the actual machine. If your not familiar with the controls just watch a few YouTube videos and you should be able to get the hang of what should be doing what.

If you get it and are not a fan, the Atlanta Craigslist market for TruCuts is pretty impressive. I think it would be hard to not get your money back for 150.

Let me know if you have any more questions.


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## Gopwh2020

Thanks everyone. I may pull the trigger on it tomorrow or at least go look at it.


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## SGrabs33

@Gopwh2020
@Jbrown has a California Trimmer Reel Mower which might be an option too.

This one is close to you and supposedly needs a new clutch.

I mention that because I know since you are in ATL and PeachTree Mowers is close and they service these types of reel mowers. They actually have this same mower for sale for $1295! I am not sure how much they would charge to fix and refurb it for you but I would have to imagine much less than $1295. Just an option...


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## Spammage

That $1295 is for a pre-owned unit too. I have a 20" Cal Trimmer and really like it. Unfortunately it wasn't heavy enough to cut my Zoysia. Worked great for my bermuda areas, but just floated on top of the Zoysia.


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## Alan

Bought a pack of grommets from HD ~$3.00 in the electrical section:



There are 8 to a pack and the size I used was second to the smallest(missing in the pic of all the grommets-above). I took the rods out and put the grommets in and re-inserted the rods. The grommets are a super tight fit so it'll take some elbow grease to get them inside the hole in the handle. I suppose you could cut the grommet so you could open it up, slip it around the rod which may make it easier to install. That would save you from pulling the rod out, but it's not that big a deal.


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## SGrabs33

Does anyone know how to tell the age of a Tru-Cut mower? Or can that not be found?

The only thing that I have noticed before are the differences in the main chain cover. I believe this is the correct order from oldest to newest..... but I could be wrong.

Thin chain cover:


Wider but curved cover:


Wider but rigid cover:


Obviously, how the used mower was taken care of is most important but it would be nice to know general age too.


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## Redtenchu

I believe your timeline is accurate.

The business number for Tru-Cut Inc is (310) 630-0422. I bet they can help with this question,...... I'm too chicken to call.


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## Redtenchu

DOLPHIN has posted some TC maintenance videos on youtube!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZmXDoWx5Lo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HJD260hYnGI


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## SGrabs33

I wonder what made them finally decide to make a few videos.

The clutch adjustment video is helpful but I find MQs walkthough quite a bit easier to follow. I just used it again the other day when doing some adjusting. Though, it is on the "other site".


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## Mightyquinn

Would you mind posting the link and I will try to add it here as I still have the pictures.


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## Mightyquinn

Ok, I will be referring to the mower as if you were standing in front of it. You will need a flat tip screw driver, 1/2" & 7/16" wrench and/or socket wrench and a 1" wrench or large Crescent wrench. You may also need some needle nose pliers or diagonal cutters to remove the cotter pin that holds the height adjustment bar in place. You will need to remove the chain cover on the far right side(1 bolt and 1 nut) and the large one that is just right of the engine(2 in the front and 2 in the back). You will also need to remove the cotter pin and washer holding the height adjustment bar to the front of the mower, once free, just move it off to the side, I usually prop it behind the gas cap. Now you can remove the large chain/clutch cover. You will also need to remove the chain on the far right side, you can loosen the slack in the chain on the adjuster, it is a 1/2" bolt, once you have slack in the chain, find the connector link on the chain by rotating the reel with your hand until it is found and pop it off with a flat tip screwdriver and remove the link and the chain.

Picture #1









Picture #2









Picture #3









In Picture #1, you will need to remove Item #1 with the 1" wrench. After removing the nut also remove the gear from the arm also. Now you should be able to remove the washer with the tabs(Item #2) by hand or persuade it off with a flat tip screwdriver. Now you have access to the adjustment nut(Item #3), there are a few more steps before coming back to this to make your adjustments.

In Picture #2, You will need to loosen Items #1 & #2, they are 1/2" bolts with a nut on the bottom of them so it will require a wrench on one side and a wrench or socket wrench on the other. Once these are loose you can begin the adjustment of the clutch.

In Picture #3, You will insert the feeler gauge as shown in Item #1 to test the gap of the clutch. There should be a gap between .020"-.030". I usually shoot for .025.

Now you will tighten/loosen Item #3 in Picture #1 until the gap is where it needs to be. Once you have the gap to where you want it you will need to reassemble everything being sure to tightening the bolts from Pic #2 Items #1 & #2 and putting Items #2 & #1 from Pic #1 back together. You will also need to reattach the chain and remove the slack from the chain too. I would refrain from reinstalling the Chain guards until you can test drive it and make sure it all works correctly. Be careful adjusting the clutch too tight as it will engage too easily or stay engaged and when reinstalling the large chain/clutch cover, make sure it isn't sitting too low or the chain will hit it and make a god awful sound!!! 

If I left something out please let me know so I can correct it or If you hit a snag let me know too!!!

Per SGrabs33's request, I moved this over here from ATY


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## SGrabs33

Thanks Andy. It was a big help when doing my adjustments in the past!


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## Redtenchu

Awesome instructions MQ!


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## Luthersrose

I have a tru cut p20 and it seems like I am having to replace the motor chain once a year. It stretches out and the link connector breaks. My guess is the clutch needs replacing. I've ordered a new one and it is on the way. How hard is it to replace? I order the whole assembly thinking it might be easier to replace than just the sprocket and shaft. What adjustments if any do I have to make after installing the clutch?. I have a new chain but it is too tight with the old clutch my guess is with the new one it should be long enough.


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## SGrabs33

Luthersrose said:


> I have a tru cut p20 and it seems like I am having to replace the motor chain once a year. It stretches out and the link connector breaks. My guess is the clutch needs replacing. I've ordered a new one and it is on the way. How hard is it to replace? I order the whole assembly thinking it might be easier to replace than just the sprocket and shaft. What adjustments if any do I have to make after installing the clutch?. I have a new chain but it is too tight with the old clutch my guess is with the new one it should be long enough.


First, it's great to have another NCer in here. What part are you from?

That's a pretty expensive guess. How much did the new clutch assembly run you. I have dealt with my share of TruCut problems but I do not know to tell when the clutch needs replacing. I'm not sure if there is anyone else on here knows any of the tell tale signs of when it goes bad???

What size chain are you using to do the replacement. I think the correct # is 40. That's weird that the link is breaking. Maybe the chain is too loose and that's causing extra wear and stress on the link. I'm not too sure. The best way to replace the chain is to count the links of the old chain and match that number to the new chain. That way the only difference in the two should be the stretching of the original.

Do you know what is included in the whole assembly that you purchased? Drive sprocket and both clutch cups for both sides? It shouldn't be too hard to replace as long as you are good at keeping track of what goes where and are somewhat mechanically inclined. If you were able to do a write up of the process with lots of pictures I think that would help a lot of people out in the future. I've been told my clutch may need replacing sometime soon.

You will definitely have to do some adjusting but MightyQuinn has done a great outline of that process above. It will be slightly different for the P20 but you should get the jist.

Do you have a picture of your reel and the chain area? I doubt we would be able to tell what is going with a pic but might as well try.

Also, what makes you think that the new chain you have will fit with the new clutch assembly? The drive sprocket replacement is not going to change in size enough to make a difference for that, I don't think.

Finally, I've been typing this on my phone in bed so I apologize for typos or if any of my comments seem aggressive. I've been going with train of thought typing.

Welcome to the forum!


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## Luthersrose

Thanks for the reply. I live in Willow Spring/ fuquay varina so I'm nearby. 
I bought the mower about five years ago used. I bought it in the spring time and by the fall the chain had already broken. Took it to a repair place in Fuquay and they put a new chain on an adjusted it. It work for the rest of that season and the spring of the following year. Then it broke again so I took it to a different place and they put a new sprocket on it comes off the motor and a chain and sent me on my way. Used to for the rest of that's growing season in the spring time of the following season . The chain broke again I took it back to the same people fix of the previous year they put a new chain on an adjusted it send me on my way . And now it's broken again. So I think the sprocket on the clutch is worn down and that's what causing the chain to stretch and break . To replace just that sprocket you have to take apart the whole clutch and it looks rather complicated. Plus the pads that surround the sprocket are worn down. So that's why I'm replacing the whole clutch. Plus when I called dolphin outdoor power equipment where I order the parts they suggested to replace the whole clutch as it's probably time to do so. 
As for the chain I slid the motor all the way forward and it still doesn't fit. But I will figure out a way to fix that. Thsts the least of my worries. I'm just tired of having to replace the chain every six months. I I should get longer than six months for one chain. 
Thanks


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## Mightyquinn

If the tension on the chain is too tight it will cause premature failure on the chain. Are they using the correct chain? I believe it's a #40 for the TruCut. There should be a little bit of slack in the chain to keep it from stretching out.


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## Luthersrose

yes it is a 40 chain. and it has slack in it. I believe its cause the teeth on the front sprocket on the clutch are worn down, but I could be wrong.


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## SGrabs33

Can you post a picture so we can see what you are looking at?


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## Mightyquinn

I'm still amiss with the chain breaking as there are only a few things that would cause that. Too little(much) slack in the chain, sprockets misaligned or poor quality chain. Unless there is something I'm missing


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## Spammage

I'm wondering if there is enough deflection that the chain is striking something while at speed.


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## Alan

Head scratching here too MQ. I buy chain at TSC and never had any issues.


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## Luthersrose

Thanks for the insight. Not sure what's going on either. The chain is a heavy duty 40 chain. The mower shop got me one last year and the new one I got from Dolphin Outdoor Power equipment looks the same. Here's a picture of the old one along some pictures of the sprocket and clutch.


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## Mightyquinn

Spammage said:


> I'm wondering if there is enough deflection that the chain is striking something while at speed.


I was thinking this too!



Alan said:


> Head scratching here too MQ. I buy chain at TSC and never had any issues.


That's where I use to get mine too :thumbup:

Have you ever compared the new chain to an old chain? You can see how much it has stretched over time as long as the link count is the same. Does the chain break at the connecting link or somewhere else on the chain?


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## Luthersrose

I will have to count the links later but it breaks at the connecting link each time


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## Spammage

A chain should have no more than 1/2" deflection at any point, and I prefer much less than that. I did have to use a half link on my TC to get the proper deflection. The half links can be bought at TSC as well.


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## Luthersrose

It doesn't hit anything and least I don't hear it doing so. It starts when the chai starts to have slack in it and when you make a turn with the mower it jumps off the front sprocket. I put it back on and it will work for a couple more mowings when it occasionally jumps off. Then eventually it comes apart at the connection. Then if you replace the connection and it last a few mores of cutting and breaks again.


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## Luthersrose

I counted the previous two chains and they have 25 links. The new one only has 23 and as I said previously it is too short. The previous two chains were too long when they were purchased and they had to be shortened. The new chain came from Dolphin outdoor power equipment and was told they are the correct length so not sure why it is too short. I have the motor slid as far forward as it will go.


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## SGrabs33

Luthersrose said:


> I counted the previous two chains and they have 25 links. The new one only has 23 and as I said previously it is too short. The previous two chains were too long when they were purchased and they had to be shortened. The new chain came from Dolphin outdoor power equipment and was told they are the correct length so not sure why it is too short. I have the motor slid as far forward as it will go.


I just counted the links on my P-20 and it has 24. Did they sell you the correct # of links for the engine you have. The P-20 could have either the Honda or Briggs. Not sure if there would be a difference there.

I actually have a P-20 that you could check out if it would be helpful. I actually have 2 of them. Haha. I'd sell you the one that's not working for parts and it would be cheaper than that clutch from Dolphin. It needs a new reel and drive sprocket but the clutches seem to be in good shape.

Let me know if there are any specific pics I could take that may be helpful in figure out what is going on with yours.


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## Luthersrose

SGrabs33 said:


> Luthersrose said:
> 
> 
> 
> I counted the previous two chains and they have 25 links. The new one only has 23 and as I said previously it is too short. The previous two chains were too long when they were purchased and they had to be shortened. The new chain came from Dolphin outdoor power equipment and was told they are the correct length so not sure why it is too short. I have the motor slid as far forward as it will go.
> 
> 
> 
> I just counted the links on my P-20 and it has 24. Did they sell you the correct # of links for the engine you have. The P-20 could have either the Honda or Briggs. Not sure if there would be a difference there.
> 
> I actually have a P-20 that you could check out if it would be helpful. I actually have 2 of them. Haha. I'd sell you the one that's not working for parts and it would be cheaper than that clutch from Dolphin. It needs a new reel and drive sprocket but the clutches seem to be in good shape.
> 
> Let me know if there are any specific pics I could take that may be helpful in figure out what is going on with yours.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offerson the old mower for parts and for taking pictures. The clutch should arrive tomorrow and I will work on installing it over the weekend. As for the chain I have the old ones so I might take a link from it or get one at tractor supply. If i find I need a picture or two I'll let you know. Thanks again


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## SGrabs33

No problem. Like I said before, if you have the extra time to take pics and post how your installation goes I think It would be very helpful!!! And not just to me  I have never been able to find a good walk through of that process. The best one is a recent post on the "other site" and it wasn't too thorough, just a bunch of random pics.


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## Luthersrose

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions and replies. Replacing the whole clutch is the way to go. Very easy to do. Here's how I did it. 
1. Removed the covers which cover the chains.
2. Removed all three chains
3. Removed the two thumb controls where they connect to the clutch assembly
4. Removed the 4 bolts which attach the clutch to the frame of the mower.
5. Removed the old clutch assembly
6. Set the new clutch assembly in place and reinstalled the bolts
7. Reattached the thumb control to the clutch assembly 
8 reinstalled the chains and cover plates 
9. Start mower and your good to go

A couple of things I immediately noticed with the new clutch. In the past if I let the grass get high due to rain or just not being able to cut it, when I eventually did cut the grass the reel would clog up and stop turning. With the new clutch I don't have this problem. It plowed right through it 
Also when I engage the clutch to make the back wheels turn I don't have to push the thumb control in as far. I barely push it in and it goes. 
Also the main chain runs much smoother and quieter. 
Hope this helps you all.


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## SGrabs33

That's great, I'm glad it all went well.

Unfortunately, I think I may be doing the same thing shortly. I believe my my drive side clutch plate seized to the shaft, right where the chain goes over the sprocket on the drive clutch. The drive side locked in today while I was mowing and started smoking. Whomp whomp. I thought that it was the cup seizing to the drive sprocket but I am able to get a putty knife in between. Even with the drive side thumb disengaged the wheels won't turn freely.



Any other ideas are welcome. I think I will have to decide between placing the cup and drive sprocket or replacing the whole assembly like luthersrose. About 150 bucks vs 340. I'm sure some of this bearings could be replaced too so it may just be best to do the whole thing.


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## SGrabs33

Luthersrose, do you have any pics of the new clutch? Either on or off the reel?


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## Luthersrose

SGrabs33 said:


> Luthersrose, do you have any pics of the new clutch? Either on or off the reel?


Unfortunately I put all the covers back on. So I would have to take them off. I have a friend coming over some night this week to check and see if I have enough tension and length in the motor chain. So when he comes and I take off the covers I'll snap a few pictures. Thanks.


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## SGrabs33

Does anyone know if the zerk on the reel clutch end is removable? I can't get this pill block bearing by it.


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## J_nick

All zerks should be removable. Is the bottom hex shaped? It looks like it is but it may just be from the light.


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## Mightyquinn

J_nick said:


> All zerks should be removable. Is the bottom hex shaped? It looks like it is but it may just be from the light.


+1 I would say 99% of most zerk fittings should be replaceable.


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## SGrabs33

Thank you both. I ended up getting it off. It was just hard to stabilize because the whole thing wasn't attached to the frame anymore. Hopefully I'll have a few more minutes tonight to check everything out and see what actually went wrong. And see what the $$$ damage is.


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## SGrabs33

Ok, as expected I think the drive side clutch plate seized to the shaft. I did grease the zerks since I bought it used so I'm not quite sure why the grease was not getting far enough to grease that area. You can see the golden ring between the cup and the shaft.



The bearing closest to that clutch plate is also not smooth when turning it. The grease must not have been making it that far I guess. Now that I already this deep into it I figure I should just replace all the bearings along with the parts that are needed. Those individual parts get me close to the cost of replacing the whole shaft parts and all, already put together so I guess that's the way I'm leaning.

I knew that a shop told the previous owner that the clutch most likely needed replacing soon so I knew I might have that cost in the future. Guess it's just a little sooner than later. Here is a pic of the reel clutch plate and the pad on the main sprocket. It looks pretty work to me, but I don't really know how to guage that.





I have a lot of pictures taking apart everything. Maybe I'll put them together so that someone replacing a single part could reference in the future.


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## Stro3579

I have a tru cut 27" mower. I am having issues with the drive lever and reel lever sticking in engage mode. If I actually pull them all the way back it stops. This just started after I pressure washer it. Any suggestions?


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## Ware

Stro3579 said:


> I have a tru cut 27" mower. I am having issues with the drive lever and reel lever sticking in engage mode. If I actually pull them all the way back it stops. This just started after I pressure washer it. Any suggestions?


I think that's normal. Or do you mean "sticking" like difficult to disengage?


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## Stro3579

It never stuck until I washed the unit.


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## J_nick

They are suppose to stick forward that way you don't have to hold them down all the time while mowing. After power washing you probably knocked some crude off that wasn't letting it fully engage.


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## SGrabs33

It sounds like to me that even when both sides are not fully locked in they are still engaged some, right?

I would guess that you knocked off some of the grease when you were power washing. Have you re-greased after the cleaning? Also there are small springs on the bottom of the control rods, where they attach to the clutch. Are those there? Its possible they were knocked loose.



Have you checked the clearance of both of you clutch pads? MQ talks about the appropriate spacing here.


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## Stro3579

I fixed it, spring was on wrong


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## SGrabs33

Great!


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## J_nick

After backlapping my H20 a couple weeks ago I saw the reel was coming into contact with the bed bar, what the bedknife attaches to. I ordered new bedknife and screws from Dolphin OPE. Their website and ordering process are a little crude but Don was very helpful in resolving any problems I had.

I used an impact screwdriver to remove the old screws. It worked for 3 out of 6 of them. The others stripped out or broke off. I ended up having to remove the bed bar to drill them out and retap them. Bolts circled in green pictured below is how you remove the bed bar, it looks the same on the opposite side. Once that was done it was smooth sailing putting it back together. The bolt holes through the frame are very snug with the bolts so the bed bar doesn't have any play to screw up reel to bedknife squareness.










Before mounting the bedknife you'll need to loosen the reel cam plates and roll the reel back so you have max clearance down by where reel/bk meet. I asked both Don at Dolphin OPE and TruCut about about torque specs for the bedknife screws and both just said to tighten them as much as possible. I went ahead and applied a liberal amount of anti-seize to them before I screwed them in. With bedknives tighten the screws in increments working from the middle out. Once that it complete you need to adjust the reel to bedknife and backlap to mate the 2 surfaces. Might take multiple backlaps depending on the condition of your reel. Mine took 3.

Yes there is a reason the bolts that hold the reel cam plate are numbered like a clock. I've heard tightening the screws in the wrong order can move the reel around. I was talking to SGrabs33 about this and he said he planned to call TruCut to ask them. While I had the guy on the phone anyways looking for the torque specs I went ahead and asked. See below:

I'll be talking left and right side, this is if you are standing in front of your mower.


All bolts hand tight
Right side tighten bolts at 5 & 9 o'clock
Left side tighten bolts at 9 & 2 o'clock
Right side tighten bolt at 2 o'clock
Left side tighten bolt at 5 o'clock


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## Spammage

Good info. I will add that these things can be really frustrating to set properly. I have found that tightening the top bolt first on each side, then the middle bolt, and finally the lower bolts seems to work best.

A weird thing I also figured out (at least for mine) is that it seems as though the top bedknife holder bolt can be of assistance. If you are getting proper contact only in the middle of the reel, try loosening the top bedknife bolt just a little at a time. Conversely, if your contact is only at the sides then you can tighten that bolt. I don't know if this was intended to work that way, but for me it has been great in improving cut quality and increasing time between backlaps.


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## J_nick

You should replace your bedknife before it ever gets in the condition mine was in. There is a raised lip on the leading edge of the bedknife. It was non-existent on mine. Look at the difference in size of the 2. The bedknife was around $35 so it's not going to break the bank to replace it.


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## SGrabs33

Great write up! I'll be backlapping next week and will have to try out the new sequence. That bedknife comparison is pretty extreme. I'm glad you were able to figure out your issue and that it was a fairy cheap fix!


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## Stro3579

$35? From where? I paid $89.


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## SGrabs33

Stro3579 said:


> $35? From where? I paid $89.


He mentioned it in his post prior.



J_nick said:


> I ordered new bedknife and screws from Dolphin OPE.


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## J_nick

Stro3579 said:


> $35? From where? I paid $89.


Sorry if my post was a little misleading. I've seen them on eBay for $35-40 range but was skeptical about buying from there. I bought mine from Dolphin OPE. The bedknife itself was $39.35 with the screws being $.93 a piece. They have a $20 processing fee if orders are under $75 so that's a PITA. Looking back I should have bought a few more things to spruce up the mower a bit and get it above $75 but hindsight is 20/20.


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## SGrabs33

J_nick said:


> Looking back I should have bought a few more things to spruce up the mower a bit and get it above $75 but hindsight is 20/20.


I know I mentioned this to you j_nick but in case anyone is looking for a few more bucks to spend...

A few easy things are the spanner wrench ($15) or the thin clutch wrenches($11 a piece).


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## SGrabs33

J_nick said:


> I've heard tightening the screws in the wrong order can move the reel around. I was talking to SGrabs33 about this and he said he planned to call TruCut to ask them. While I had the guy on the phone anyways looking for the torque specs I went ahead and asked. See below:
> 
> I'll be talking left and right side, this is if you are standing in front of your mower.
> 
> 
> All bolts hand tight
> Right side tighten bolts at 5 & 9 o'clock
> Left side tighten bolts at 9 & 2 o'clock
> Right side tighten bolt at 2 o'clock
> Left side tighten bolt at 5 o'clock


I backlapped my two TruCut's last night and this sequence worked well. I ended up just taking a red permanent marker to each of the "final" screws on each side of the mower. That way I can always remember which to tighten last :thumbup:


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## bbeckwor

Does anyone know what year model serial number 818171 would be? This unit is for sale at my local equipment shop, trying to decide if I should purchase or not. 20" w/ Briggs. $400


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## Concretestorm

I took my 2 month old tru cut to the dealer to have it backlapped. The mechanic that does the reel mower service said, "all backlapping does is make it quiet." He said the blades were totally shot and needed to be grinded. Not wanting to be confrontational, I explained that the manufacturer recommended backlapping. He said, " the manufacturer doesn't know how to fix em, they just make em". 
I was pissed, but left the machine hoping to get it cutting good again. Well, yesterday they called me and said it was ready and all it needed was adjustment. Bottom line is I know that it needs to be backlapped. I can't find anyone that knows how to work on my reel mowers, and I'm in a panic. 
Does anyone have any suggestions?


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## Ware

So they didn't do a grind or a backlap - just adjusted reel to bedknife? I would take some strips of paper and make sure it cuts them before you leave with it. Here is one Redtenchu's videos where he demonstrates cutting paper:

https://youtu.be/KlQUuPQLFAI​
There are different philosophies when it comes to reel mower mechanics - some swear by backlapping, some only like to grind. Then there is spin only grinding versus spin + relief grinding.


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## ahartzell

DIY with some ************ compound. I'm not familiar with TruCuts, but I'm sure it can be done. Can't say for sure, but sounds like dealer just wanted you to pay more hoping you didn't know what you were doing....or he doesn't know what he's doing. The comment "all backlapping does is make it quiet" would have made me leave right then.


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## Concretestorm

ahartzell said:


> DIY with some backlapping compound. I'm not familiar with TruCuts, but I'm sure it can be done. Can't say for sure, but sounds like dealer just wanted you to pay more hoping you didn't know what you were doing....or he doesn't know what he's doing. The comment "all backlapping does is make it quiet" would have made me leave right then.


I wanted to leave, but I only have 2 mowers and I'm trying to maintain 1/2" HOC. I can absolutely do it myself, but I need to see it done to learn. I can't find anyone that knows anything about reel mowers in my area. It is very frustrating.


----------



## ahartzell

This may be a better post for the Equipment section. Lots of people with TruCuts who could probably help


----------



## Ware

Concretestorm said:


> I wanted to leave, but I only have 2 mowers and I'm trying to maintain 1/2" HOC. I can absolutely do it myself, but I need to see it done to learn. I can't find anyone that knows anything about reel mowers in my area. It is very frustrating.





SGrabs33 said:


> I backlapped my two TruCut's last night and this sequence worked well. I ended up just taking a red permanent marker to each of the "final" screws on each side of the mower. That way I can always remember which to tighten last :thumbup:


I moved this over to the Tru-Cut thread. Also quoting SG to get his attention - I think he's the resident Tru-Cut guru. :thumbup:


----------



## Concretestorm

Ware said:


> Concretestorm said:
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to leave, but I only have 2 mowers and I'm trying to maintain 1/2" HOC. I can absolutely do it myself, but I need to see it done to learn. I can't find anyone that knows anything about reel mowers in my area. It is very frustrating.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I backlapped my two TruCut's last night and this sequence worked well. I ended up just taking a red permanent marker to each of the "final" screws on each side of the mower. That way I can always remember which to tighten last :thumbup:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I moved this over to the Tru-Cut thread. Also quoting SG to get his attention - I think he's the resident Tru-Cut guru. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Thank you, Ware


----------



## Spammage

You can get most of what you need from this thread CS, but if I remember right, you are in the DFW area. I know Plano Power Equipment sells and services Tru-Cuts, so that might be an option with some driving factored in if you really do need a grind.

If you just need backlapping, they can be a little finicky, but it is definitely doable. Have a look through the thread and let us know if you have any additional questions.


----------



## dfw_pilot

I think CS lives closer to a "weird" city.


----------



## Redtenchu

Concretestorm said:


> I took my 2 month old tru cut to the dealer to have it backlapped. The mechanic that does the reel mower service said, "all backlapping does is make it quiet." He said the blades were totally shot and needed to be grinded. Not wanting to be confrontational, I explained that the manufacturer recommended backlapping. He said, " the manufacturer doesn't know how to fix em, they just make em".
> I was pissed, but left the machine hoping to get it cutting good again. Well, yesterday they called me and said it was ready and all it needed was adjustment. Bottom line is I know that it needs to be backlapped. I can't find anyone that knows how to work on my reel mowers, and I'm in a panic.
> Does anyone have any suggestions?


After purchasing my first Reel Mower (TC-H20), I took it to a dealer in OKC to have it serviced. They backlapped it, but did a horrible job... I realized the only route was to do it myself.

I inquired about purchasing a new bedknife for my H20 at the same dealer, they informed me that a new Bedknife would require a new reel also... I knew that was a lie, never went back.


----------



## SGrabs33

bbeckwor said:


> Does anyone know what year model serial number 818171 would be? This unit is for sale at my local equipment shop, trying to decide if I should purchase or not. 20" w/ Briggs. $400


I think you will have to call the manufacturer to get the actual age. Just post a few of the pics or a link to the listing and some people can take a look and let you know their opinions on the condition



Concretestorm said:


> I took my 2 month old tru cut to the dealer to have it backlapped. The mechanic that does the reel mower service said, "all backlapping does is make it quiet." He said the blades were totally shot and needed to be grinded. Not wanting to be confrontational, I explained that the manufacturer recommended backlapping. He said, " the manufacturer doesn't know how to fix em, they just make em".
> I was pissed, but left the machine hoping to get it cutting good again. Well, yesterday they called me and said it was ready and all it needed was adjustment. Bottom line is I know that it needs to be backlapped. I can't find anyone that knows how to work on my reel mowers, and I'm in a panic.
> Does anyone have any suggestions?


Is this the dealer that you bought the machine from? Warranty if the blades are "shot"??? I'd ask them what "adjustment" was needed to get it back to working condition, per their remarks.

I am no expert on reel/bedknife but as long as there are no large gouges on either or the reel is no longer round I think backlapping will do you just fine.


----------



## Concretestorm

SGrabs33 said:


> bbeckwor said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what year model serial number 818171 would be? This unit is for sale at my local equipment shop, trying to decide if I should purchase or not. 20" w/ Briggs. $400
> 
> 
> 
> I think you will have to call the manufacturer to get the actual age. Just post a few of the pics or a link to the listing and some people can take a look and let you know their opinions on the condition
> 
> 
> 
> Concretestorm said:
> 
> 
> 
> I took my 2 month old tru cut to the dealer to have it backlapped. The mechanic that does the reel mower service said, "all backlapping does is make it quiet." He said the blades were totally shot and needed to be grinded. Not wanting to be confrontational, I explained that the manufacturer recommended backlapping. He said, " the manufacturer doesn't know how to fix em, they just make em".
> I was pissed, but left the machine hoping to get it cutting good again. Well, yesterday they called me and said it was ready and all it needed was adjustment. Bottom line is I know that it needs to be backlapped. I can't find anyone that knows how to work on my reel mowers, and I'm in a panic.
> Does anyone have any suggestions?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Is this the dealer that you bought the machine from? Warranty if the blades are "shot"??? I'd ask them what "adjustment" was needed to get it back to working condition, per their remarks.
> 
> I am no expert on reel/bedknife but as long as there are no large gouges on either or the reel is no longer round I think backlapping will do you just fine.
Click to expand...

Well, I got it back today. It is worse than before. I need to learn to do everything myself. 
Questions:
-do I need the backlapping kit?
-I have a cal trimmer, also. Is there a tool that can be used for both machines?
-anything else I'll need (besides lapping compound, etc.)


----------



## J_nick

All you'll need is some lapping compound, a socket set, hammer and punch and a electric drill with a 3/8" drive attachment.

TruCut makes a spanner wrench to eliminate the need for a hammer and punch but I don't have one and I backlapped mine with no problems.

I've never even seen a Cal Trimmer so I'm of no help there. Good luck!


----------



## SGrabs33

Agreed with what j_nick said above.


----------



## Spammage

I have a Cal Trimmer too, but there is nothing that will work with both. I do have the spanner wrench, but as stated you can get by without it.


----------



## SGrabs33

I thought I would do a write up on the location of the grease points for the TruCut. There are 6 grease points on the C27 (these might be the same for the 25" inch but I am not positive). I recommend greasing at least once a month or so for general maintenance. If it were me, and I had just bought a used TruCut, I would make sure to pump at least one whole tube of grease spread throughout all zerks. You never know how well it was maintained previously.

The grease gun I use: Lumax LX-1152 Black Heavy Duty Deluxe Pistol Grease Gun with 18" Flex Hose
This one works well, but I don't know if it works better than anything else on the market. 


The grease I use: Lucas Oil 10301 X-Tra Heavy Duty Grease or Lucas Oil 10005 Red 'N' Tacky Grease - 14 oz
I cant imagine that other grease would work much better or worse, this is just what I use. I also like to alternate the colors so that I can tell that the grease is making it to the different areas.

*The C27 ZERKS(6), should be pretty self explanatory with the arrows:*
Back side (2). 


Both ends of the clutch shaft(2):




Left: Reel shaft(1, spin the reel until you can see the zerk)
Right: Reel bearing retainer(1, there are two zerks on the bearing retainer, for convenience. They both grease the same bearing so there is no need to grease both. Try both to see which may be easier for you. It may be easier to lean the TruCut back on its handlebars to get to the zerk on the underside.


*The H20/P20 ZERKS(6, I think):*
Back side(2) I believe is the same as above. I will check later and update. 


Clutch shaft(2):


Reel (same as above):
Left: Reel shaft(1, spin the reel until you can see the zerk)
Right: Reel bearing retainer(1, there are two zerks on the bearing retainer, for convenience. They both grease the same bearing so there is no need to grease both. Try both to see which may be easier for you. It may be easier to lean the TruCut back on its handlebars to get to the zerk on the underside.


Let me know if anyone has any questions!


----------



## SGrabs33

Question for a friend with a TruCut C27:

You can see in the below pic that the reel is hitting the bedknife holder in addition to the bedknife(contact is all the way across the holder). Has anyone ever had this happen? He didn't get a chance to try it out but he thinks that the reel is rotated all the way backwards instead of all the way forwards.


----------



## J_nick

I had this happen on my H-20. Rotating the reel back raises the reel so it's rotated to far forward. The bedknife is worn out and needs a new one.


----------



## SGrabs33

J_nick said:


> I had this happen on my H-20. Rotating the reel back raises the reel so it's rotated to far forward. The bedknife is worn out and needs a new one.


That makes sense. Did your old bedknife have any lip left on it. My friend is telling me that he does still have a lip. Did you happen to do an old/new comparison? pic?

Thanks!


----------



## J_nick

SGrabs33 said:


> J_nick said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had this happen on my H-20. Rotating the reel back raises the reel so it's rotated to far forward. The bedknife is worn out and needs a new one.
> 
> 
> 
> That makes sense. Did your old bedknife have any lip left on it. My friend is telling me that he does still have a lip. Did you happen to do an old/new comparison? pic?
> 
> Thanks!
Click to expand...

Yep, pic is back on page 3 it didn't have a lip left


----------



## SGrabs33

Thanks for the feedback J_NICK.

The issue did end up being what he thought, the reel was rotated all the way back instead of forward. He said that it is now cutting MUCH better than ever before. His lawn is nice and flat and will be green again in no time.


----------



## FATC1TY

New to tru cut, do you guys run them wide open on the throttle? Then feather the clutch as needed for speed, keeping the reel engaged the whole time?

Mine runs good, sounds good except it does rattle a bit, and does have a scraping noise from the reel, cuts paper and can move by hand so it doesn't seem toooo terribly tight ?


----------



## SGrabs33

I don't quite have mine at full throttle unless I am scalping. But yes to feathering the drive wheel clutch while having the reel engaged the whole time. I do disengage the reel going over the sidewalk or driveway just in case it's hiding a rock.

I also have contact on my reel/bedknife that causes a scraping sound. Light contact should be just fine. The rattle could be a lose chain? Or a lose bolt/nut somewhere?

Show us a pic!


----------



## Jericho574

I just brought an H20 home last night. I know the HOC ranges but is there a guide somewhere that shows the height notch by notch?


----------



## SGrabs33

Jericho574 said:


> I just brought an H20 home last night. I know the HOC ranges but is there a guide somewhere that shows the height notch by notch?


I've never seen one unfortunately. I think the height can change some depending on casters/roller also so there is no standard.


----------



## Spammage

SGrabs33 said:


> Jericho574 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just brought an H20 home last night. I know the HOC ranges but is there a guide somewhere that shows the height notch by notch?
> 
> 
> 
> I've never seen one unfortunately. I think the height can change some depending on casters/roller also so there is no standard.
Click to expand...

+1 -- and how worn the bedknife is since the reel moves down to meet it.


----------



## Redtenchu

If I remember correctly... Once you get a base measurement, each notch on the HOC adjuster is 0.25"


----------



## FATC1TY

SGrabs33 said:


> I don't quite have mine at full throttle unless I am scalping. But yes to feathering the drive wheel clutch while having the reel engaged the whole time. I do disengage the reel going over the sidewalk or driveway just in case it's hiding a rock.
> 
> I also have contact on my reel/bedknife that causes a scraping sound. Light contact should be just fine. The rattle could be a lose chain? Or a lose bolt/nut somewhere?
> 
> Show us a pic!


Appears the rattle was the chain guard on the left side with a busted hole where the bolt keeps it attached to the body. The guard is held on with the bottom bolt but the tab is broken on the top. The guard is floating on the chain/sprocket. Gonna weld it back on. Should quiet it down!!

Thanks on the info for running. I keep it maybe 80 percent throttle and then keep the reel going, and like you when I go up on concrete or I'm travelling from front yard to back yard and not cutting.


----------



## FATC1TY

SGrabs33 said:


> Jericho574 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just brought an H20 home last night. I know the HOC ranges but is there a guide somewhere that shows the height notch by notch?
> 
> 
> 
> I've never seen one unfortunately. I think the height can change some depending on casters/roller also so there is no standard.
Click to expand...

I swore I measured the highest cut on mine when I got it, they guy had it zip tied to keep it from moving out the hole. It was 2.25 from bedknife to ground. Hope it helps.


----------



## FATC1TY

Maintenance :

How often are you guys squirting grease into the zerks all around the mower?

Do you rinse your mowers off, any cleaning worthwhile ?

Oil changes, air filters, gas treatments?

What kind, how much, what do you like for oils, filters, etc and where do you get them?

Is there an online source for tru cut materials like parts, Backlapping compound, etc?


----------



## Mightyquinn

You will probably want to live the zerk fittings every month or two during the mowing season.

I usually spray mine down with a hose after every mow and then dry it off with the leaf blower. At a minimum you want to blow all the clippings off after every mow.

Just change the oil annually and check the air filter when you lube it. All you usually need to do is blow out any dust and debris and put it back in.

No need for any special fuel additives except maybe Stabil, it has no oil filter.

For backlapping compound, most of us use Pinhigh as it comes in various grits and sizes. I'd recommend 120 grit as a good all around grit to use.


----------



## FATC1TY

Mightyquinn said:


> You will probably want to live the zerk fittings every month or two during the mowing season.
> 
> I usually spray mine down with a hose after every mow and then dry it off with the leaf blower. At a minimum you want to blow all the clippings off after every mow.
> 
> Just change the oil annually and check the air filter when you lube it. All you usually need to do is blow out any dust and debris and put it back in.
> 
> No need for any special fuel additives except maybe Stabil, it has no oil filter.
> 
> For backlapping compound, most of us use Pinhigh as it comes in various grits and sizes. I'd recommend 120 grit as a good all around grit to use.


Awesome- thank you sir.

Any preference to oil/weight for the 4HP Honda motor?


----------



## Mightyquinn

10W-30 should work fine.


----------



## Adrian82

Can someone explain how to interpret the quick height adjustment sleights (i.e. 1/16, 1/8th per slot)?


----------



## Redtenchu

Adrian82 said:


> Can someone explain how to interpret the quick height adjustment sleights (i.e. 1/16, 1/8th per slot)?





Redtenchu said:


> If I remember correctly... Once you get a base measurement, each notch on the HOC adjuster is 0.25"


This was on my H20 and a few years back, maybe someone can confirm or correct me on this?


----------



## J_nick

I raised mine 2 holes and it changed around 1/4"


----------



## Redtenchu

J_nick said:


> I raised mine 2 holes and it changed around 1/4"


So 1/8 per hole! Thanks J_Nick!


----------



## DetroitRocker

Hey guys - my TC H20 is pulling hard to the left; it would spin in counterclockwise circles if I didn't apply enough pressure to stay straight. Any ideas?


----------



## jayhawk

FATC1TY said:


> New to tru cut, do you guys run them wide open on the throttle? Then feather the clutch as needed for speed, keeping the reel engaged the whole time?
> 
> Mine runs good, sounds good except it does rattle a bit, and does have a scraping noise from the reel, cuts paper and can move by hand so it doesn't seem toooo terribly tight ?


Generally, I only engage the reel if I'm cutting and feather the drive....yard doesn't have long runs so I just burn the clutch  
I will put a bead of lube on the bed knife if the grass is dry.


----------



## SGrabs33

DetroitRocker said:


> Hey guys - my TC H20 is pulling hard to the left; it would spin in counterclockwise circles if I didn't apply enough pressure to stay straight. Any ideas?


Do you have an even cut? That would rule out an issue with the bedknife dragging and causing the issue. 
Check out the below. Where he lifts up the back to let the wheels freespin. Can you do that with yours? Maybe grease up the back zerks near the wheels. Just throwing out ideas because I'm not sure.


----------



## DetroitRocker

Thanks SGrabs33! I isolated the problem to a busted front caster wheel. I wasn't able to see it from the operators position. Good thing I have a roller on the way.


----------



## Jericho574

So last night about 3/4 into my mow, the reel chain on my H20 just falls to the ground. I removed the chain guard and it looks like all it needs is a new pin to reconnect the links. Is there anything wrong with that? Also, I put the chain back, less a connector pin...so how exactly do you physically put the pin back in because there isn't enough room to use a chain tool?


----------



## Shootermcgee

You could try adding half link to the chain. Tractor supply is good place to get that.


----------



## SGrabs33

Jericho574 said:


> So last night about 3/4 into my mow, the reel chain on my H20 just falls to the ground. I removed the chain guard and it looks like all it needs is a new pin to reconnect the links. Is there anything wrong with that? Also, I put the chain back, less a connector pin...so how exactly do you physically put the pin back in because there isn't enough room to use a chain tool?


Does your have a chain tension-er like in the picture? If that's loosened all the way I don't think it should be too hard to pull the chain and add the link. Its not easy to do, if it is then the chain is too loose(which does not sound like your issue). I agree that if it is really too tight, you can add a half link like shooter said.


----------



## Jericho574

Ok my mistake, it wasn't the reel chain.



When I flipped the mower on its side, it was a tight squeeze to thread the chain back over the sprocket. Which made me think "if fitting my hand in was this hard, how will I actually insert a pin with tools?


----------



## J_nick

The motor can slide forward and backward to get the right amount of tension on that chain.


----------



## Jericho574

J_nick said:


> The motor can slide forward and backward to get the right amount of tension on that chain.


Is that a quick/easy process or am I getting to the point where it should be brought into a shop?

Reconnecting a chain doesn't sound like a big deal but moving the motor and figuring the correct amount of tension sounds more in depth (again I'm very new to this and not the most mechanically inclined yet).


----------



## J_nick

It's fairly simple. 1 bolt at each corner of the motor. The chain should have a little slack and make sure the sprockets are lined up with each other.


----------



## SGrabs33

J_nick said:


> It's fairly simple. 1 bolt at each corner of the motor. The chain should have a little slack and make sure the sprockets are lined up with each other.


Exactly this!


----------



## Jericho574

Thanks guys!


----------



## Jericho574

Didn't need to move the engine. Just bought a $2.90 link in order to use the pin/clamp. I'm good to go. Thanks!


----------



## Adrian82

*Reel Keeps Moving Out of Alignment with Bedknife*

On Friday afternoon I backlapped then adjusted my reel/bedknife to pass the paper cut test. Shortly afterwards, I cut my yard, cleaned the reel and performed the paper cut test again. After cutting the yard, the paper cut test failed. The reel was moving "too freely" and there was a noticeable gap between the reel and bedknife.

This morning, I adjusted my reel/bedknife to pass the paper cut test (such an enjoyable feeling). I cut a different section of my yard. Afterwards, the entire (left, middle, right) reel failed the paper cut test again. I need some advice on this matter.

Tomorrow, I plan to purchase new retaining screws (6x) for the reel. I cannot began to understand why the reel keeps moving out of alignment.


----------



## Adrian82

Upon closer inspection, I noticed that the right side Retaining Ring (Part 35) is warped. Can someone provide guidance regarding the removal of the blade? I thought it would be as simple as pulling the reel bar sprocket as seen in the following video. The bar is not budging.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5pj7dklw7gs


----------



## SGrabs33

Adrian82 said:


> Upon closer inspection, I noticed that the right side Retaining Ring (Part 35) is warped. Can someone provide guidance regarding the removal of the blade? I thought it would be as simple as pulling the reel bar sprocket as seen in the following video. The bar is not budging.


Hey, that's me!

What do you mean by warped? Can you take a picture that would show the issue?

The bearings fit pretty tightly in the bearing retainers. I think I just ended up being able to pull the whole reel and leftmost bearing to the right and out of the leftmost bearing retainer. Just ensure that you have removed the bearing retainer ring from the right side(shown in the freeze frame of the you-tube video, its held on with three screws). If you don't that it will not move. The bearing retainer ring is removed in the below picture. This is the way everything should move once you get the leftmost bearing out of it bearing retainer. Ignore everything in the picture to the right of the bearing retainer, this was a picture I took dealing with another issue.



Let me know if if you need clarification on anything.


----------



## Adrian82

Sorry for pic quality, tropical storm Irma has knocked our power out. I cannot take decent pictures of the right (standing behind mower point of view) retaining bracket. I am able to unscrew the right and left retaining brackets. After unscrewing the retaining brackets, the right side of the reel moves and wants to come out. However, the the left side of the reel has no lateral motion thus preventing me from taking out the reel.

As far as the warped right bracket, visualize not being able to set the bracket unless it was in an exact position. If rotated the retaining bracket would not align flush against the mower to screw in bolts.

Should I attempt to remove the zerks?


----------



## SGrabs33

If you take he zerks out it may give you more room. But you still will not be able to take the reel out because the bearing is stuck in the bearing retainer, right?(on reel chain side)


----------



## Adrian82

SGrabs33 said:


> If you take he zerks out it may give you more room. But you still will not be able to take the reel out because the bearing is stuck in the bearing retainer, right?(on reel chain side)


The wheel bearings are stuck in both bearing retainers. I can't speak to greasing habits before I acquired the mower. Is this a fixable item?


----------



## SGrabs33

Adrian82 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you take he zerks out it may give you more room. But you still will not be able to take the reel out because the bearing is stuck in the bearing retainer, right?(on reel chain side)
> 
> 
> 
> The wheel bearings are stuck in both bearing retainers. I can't speak to greasing habits before I acquired the mower. Is this a fixable item?
Click to expand...

I would try and pump some grease in them to see if they loosen. That's probably a long shot though.
If your reel is still in good shape then yes it is definitely repairable. You will just have to find a way to remove the bearing/holder without damaging the reel. Then just seat new bearings with new retainers. I unfortunately don't have any helpful hints on how to get the bearing/holder off. I think a few people have had luck calling Tru-Cut directly((310) 630-0422). That may be your best option for a suggestion other than "use your muscle".


----------



## TulsaFan

I would rather read the forum than to ask questions that have been answered a 100 times. However, my reading has me more confused as to what applies to my lawn (zoysia) and mower (C25-7) vs greens mowers and other grass varieties.

In an ideal setting, will mowing without the grass being wet warp my reel? If so, how do you get past spreading fungus? I read to put a bead of lube on the blade. However, I have seen the result of excess grease from over lubing my mower.

FYI...I primarily mow at noon.

Trying to not warp the reel, spread fungus, and leave ruts in the yard with all the conflicting information.


----------



## Mightyquinn

TulsaFan said:


> I would rather read the forum than to ask questions that have been answered a 100 times. However, my reading has me more confused as to what applies to my lawn (zoysia) and mower (C25-7) vs greens mowers and other grass varieties.
> 
> In an ideal setting, will mowing without the grass being wet warp my reel? If so, how do you get past spreading fungus? I read to put a bead of lube on the blade. However, I have seen the result of excess grease from over lubing my mower.
> 
> FYI...I primarily mow at noon.
> 
> Trying to not warp the reel, spread fungus, and leave ruts in the yard with all the conflicting information.


I personally don't mind answering a question a 100 times as some people like to search and find it themselves and others are just not as good at it or they are new to lawn care and don't know what to search for. We were all new to this at one point in time, so I don't mind helping where I can.

Mowing dry grass with your TruCut shouldn't warp your reel at all as long as your reel to bedknife spacing isn't too tight. As long as you can rotate the reel with your finger, you should be good to go. Adding grease or oil to the blades will do nothing but gum up your reel blades and bedknife. Probably the best way to prevent the spread of fungus is to catch the clipping with the grass catcher and be sure to wash your mower after each mow and then blow dry it off with your leaf blower to prevent rust.


----------



## Spammage

I don't think you will have any issues cutting dry grass. The biggest concern is having too much contact with the bedknife. That will cause both the reel and bedknife to get hot and potentially warp. Cutting with the grass damp will aid in cleaning up the reel when you are done, but I don't even think about it when nearing Fall and potential fungus issues.

edit -- MQ is a Ninja!


----------



## jayhawk

i was on caltrimmer.com recently and they suggest cutting when it's wet for the reasons you mention - as when it's wet from due in the AM? (not sure what TruCut says) You'll probably mow at some time when it rained too much for the weight of the mower, creating small 'ruts' in places but you'll figure it out - what the limit is.

if you do wet the mower down for 'clean up' - as mentioned ...dry it off good or you will see rust. I assume the same principle applies here - try drying your razor blades after each use ...stays sharper longer


----------



## aug0211

Mightyquinn said:


> I personally don't mind answering a question a 100 times as some people like to search and find it themselves and others are just not as good at it or they are new to lawn care and don't know what to search for. We were all new to this at one point in time, so I don't mind helping where I can.
> ...


MQ, you rock. Thanks for helping all of us newbies.

Ok, now my reel (real?) question...

I'm only a few days (read:few hundred posts) into my research journey for my next mower. All I've looked at to this point is what I see as "residential" grade reel mowers. By that, I just mean reel mowers cutting in the ~2" range - maybe there's a better term?

I've understood McLane, Cali Trimmer, and Tru-Cut to be the three options in this category.

I'm thinking I need to maintain my lawn between 1.75-2.5" based on my climate, grass, knowledge and time available to commit. The higher end during the heat of late July/early August, closer to 2" the rest of the time.

Based on the reading I've done, it sounds like the TC has the HOC most appropriate for me.

Another requirement is that I'd like a wider deck (correct term for reels?) - 20" is not so interesting to me. The 27" TC is very interesting to me.

So, I've read enough to come to the early idea that a 27" TC might be a good fit - I have one question and 2 concerns at this point (more to come, I'm sure!):

Question 1 - is the TC a good pick for me? Should I be looking into others?

Concern 1 - cost is a factor, and supply seems short in my area (Ohio). I've seen the thread with a collection of links (which is great!)... but nothing on there for me so far (I'll keep checking). Any ideas on where to look?

Concern 2 (biggest concern) - maintenance. This scares me a lot. Read this thread tonight, and it seems like there are some pretty big things to dig in to with these mowers. My concern is taking the small amount of time I have to devote to my lawn and splitting it up for the mower, as well. Is this a valid concern? I've heard about 1 hour/month, but as I read this thread, I sense future nightmares and headaches. Am I off?


----------



## fusebox7

Question about throttle position... I have an H20 and I can only seem to get the throttle lever to "stick" in the "low" or "high" positions. I've been trying to run it at 80% as many have recommended but the throttle will move off of that position back down to "low". Is there something I can do with the throttle cable to make the lever stay where I put it? TIA!


----------



## MasterMech

fusebox7 said:


> Question about throttle position... I have an H20 and I can only seem to get the throttle lever to "stick" in the "low" or "high" positions. I've been trying to run it at 80% as many have recommended but the throttle will move off of that position back down to "low". Is there something I can do with the throttle cable to make the lever stay where I put it? TIA!


Some throttle controls have a tension nut near the handle. Otherwise you might be able to adjust tension at the throttle plate of the motor. Can't remember if the GC160 has such a setup!


----------



## fusebox7

MasterMech said:


> fusebox7 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question about throttle position... I have an H20 and I can only seem to get the throttle lever to "stick" in the "low" or "high" positions. I've been trying to run it at 80% as many have recommended but the throttle will move off of that position back down to "low". Is there something I can do with the throttle cable to make the lever stay where I put it? TIA!
> 
> 
> 
> Some throttle controls have a tension nut near the handle. Otherwise you might be able to adjust tension at the throttle plate of the motor. Can't remember if the GC160 has such a setup!
Click to expand...

I tightened both of the nuts (the one by the throttle handle tightened quite a bit) and it seems to have fixed my issue. Best part is, my cut seems to have improved running it at between 50-90% instead of full throttle. Awesome. Thanks!!!


----------



## 2xjtn

I love my TRU-CUT 27" !!  
This is just after I did a refresh on her. New reel bearings, chains, painted the reel and chute. Also added the roller, which is essential for a smooth cut and striping!


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## dfw_pilot

Looks awesome! Welcome to TLF.


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## SGrabs33

I always enjoy seeing a new TruCut joiner!


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## 2xjtn

Ware said:


> So they didn't do a grind or a backlap - just adjusted reel to bedknife? I would take some strips of paper and make sure it cuts them before you leave with it. Here is one Redtenchu's videos where he demonstrates cutting paper:
> 
> https://youtu.be/KlQUuPQLFAI​
> There are different philosophies when it comes to reel mower mechanics - some swear by backlapping, some only like to grind. Then there is spin only grinding versus spin + relief grinding.


I do my backlapping how it's shown in this video. I do adjust my reel-to-bk clearance so there's light contact, just to make sure I get an even lap. This should all be considered maintenance though, I maybe perform lapping 2 or 3 times during the season. In the off-season, I remove the reel, strip it down and re-apply fresh paint, then reinstall. I take the mower to my buddy at the local golf course, and they perform a grind. Not a spin-grind, a RELIEF grind. See, each blade needs to be ground individually so there's a few degrees of relief - this makes the cutting edge more exact, and sets it up nicely for the end user to do lapping later on. Same should be done for the bedknife, with it off the machine. They have a special jig and sharpening setup just for bedknives. Again, they grind and put a few degrees of relief on the edge. This leaves a little "hollow" for lapping compound to sit when it spins backwards. 
The Tru-Cut machines do have their quirks. Reel-to-bedknife adjustment is opposite of a true greens mower. On a JD, Toro, Jacobsen, you actually adjust the bedknife to the reel. On the Tru-Cut, you are moving the reel to the bedknife. But not in a linear fashion..When you turn those adjustment rings, the reel shaft/bearing is mounted-off center, 


and you move the reel down and towards the back of the machine. You end up getting a bit more life out of the bedknife this way..but this is why they are such a PITA to adjust. Then there's tightening the adjustment ring bolts - I see others here have had the same trouble and have found that tightening the 3 bolts in the correct order is crucial..
I have often though about fabricating a new concentric ring that has a banjo bolt or similar fitting mounted off center. Run that up alongside the frame through a welded block of steel. A couple of nuts to tighten it from moving. Would make adjustment much easier and more precise..? Just a thought


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## 2xjtn

Yep, that bearing on the chain side is shot. Better replace both bearings. To remove the reel:
1. Take the chain off
2. Take all the retaining ring bolts out of both sides.
3. Take the retaining ring off the chain side.
4. Take the bearing holder off the non-chain side.
5. Remove both grease zerks from the bearing holder on the chain side.
6. Now you'll have to weasel the entire reel towards the chain side, and "tuck" the right (non-chain) side of the reel down and out of the mower. Note that the bearing holder on the chain side will stay on during this process.
To get the bearings out of the bearing holders, put it carefully into a vise. Use a torch to heat up the bearing holder until it's good and hot. Also use lots of penetrating oil. On the right side holder, you will probably have to tap out the grease cap. Use a drift punch to gently tap the bearing out, working around the perimeter of the inside edge of the bearing. It takes some patience, but it will come out. A good time to make sure the zerks are good. Bearings are easily available at any good bearing supplier. Think I paid about $20 or so for the set of 2. Also a good time to clean up the bedknife/have it sharpened. Also clean up and give the grass deflector/chute a good shot of paint.


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## FATC1TY

First year done with my new to me H20.

I ran it empty with some storage stabil gas and blew all the junk off of it.

Anything you guys do now, other than Park it in the garage? Any maintenance worth doing now and not in February/March?

Figure an oil change- any idea how much oil it will take/need and any tricks to making it easier?

I have lapping compound but have yet to adjust the reel any. It spins by hand with some heard and felt contact.


----------



## Mightyquinn

FATC1TY said:


> First year done with my new to me H20.
> 
> I ran it empty with some storage stabil gas and blew all the junk off of it.
> 
> Anything you guys do now, other than Park it in the garage? Any maintenance worth doing now and not in February/March?
> 
> Figure an oil change- any idea how much oil it will take/need and any tricks to making it easier?
> 
> I have lapping compound but have yet to adjust the reel any. It spins by hand with some heard and felt contact.


I know you said you blew it off really good but I would go ahead and give it a good cleaning with a hose and get any/all the build up off the reel and then dry it off really good with a leaf blower. Check to make sure that it is still cutting paper cleanly to see if you need to backlap it, other than that just give it some fresh oil in the Spring and you should be good to go.


----------



## SGrabs33

Mightyquinn said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> First year done with my new to me H20.
> 
> I ran it empty with some storage stabil gas and blew all the junk off of it.
> 
> Anything you guys do now, other than Park it in the garage? Any maintenance worth doing now and not in February/March?
> 
> Figure an oil change- any idea how much oil it will take/need and any tricks to making it easier?
> 
> I have lapping compound but have yet to adjust the reel any. It spins by hand with some heard and felt contact.
> 
> 
> 
> I know you said you blew it off really good but I would go ahead and give it a good cleaning with a hose and get any/all the build up off the reel and then dry it off really good with a leaf blower. Check to make sure that it is still cutting paper cleanly to see if you need to backlap it, other than that just give it some fresh oil in the Spring and you should be good to go.
Click to expand...

The only other thing I can think of is to throw some grease in those zerks. That can be done now, or in the spring though. Maybe some WD40 on the throttle adjustment near the handlebars.


----------



## FATC1TY

Thanks for the info fellas.

It still cuts paper all the way across, figure it needs an oil change and new grease in the zerks and off we go.

Suppose I could pressure wash it and get all the grass stuck in the excess grease on the clutch and chains.


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## TulsaFan

The community on this website is the best. Extremely knowledgeable and helpful people!!! :thumbup:


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## cnet24

So after a year of researching, I finally brought home an almost new Tru Cut C27 on Friday- I got an extremely good deal that included a speed reducer kit & has only been used a hand full of times. I've spent some time tonight reading through this and have some questions- I'm sure there will be more to come as I get more acclimated with my new mower!

1) I did not get the 1" small wrench that looks like it is used to loosen many of the fasteners located around the mower- anyone know where I can get one or know the equivalent size in a standard wrench? Also, any special tools like this one I should consider replacing?

2) Backlapping- I've watched @Redtenchu 's videos on backlapping, and after mowing today I came in to try the paper test. After scalping most of the yard, it failed and I begin trying to figure out how to get the chain guard off. Anyone have step-by-step instructions on how to do this? I have some pinhigh 120 grit ordered and on it's way!


----------



## Mightyquinn

cnet24 said:


> So after a year of researching, I finally brought home an almost new Tru Cut C27 on Friday- I got an extremely good deal that included a speed reducer kit & has only been used a hand full of times. I've spent some time tonight reading through this and have some questions- I'm sure there will be more to come as I get more acclimated with my new mower!
> 
> 1) I did not get the 1" small wrench that looks like it is used to loosen many of the fasteners located around the mower- anyone know where I can get one or know the equivalent size in a standard wrench? Also, any special tools like this one I should consider replacing?
> 
> 2) Backlapping- I've watched @Redtenchu 's videos on backlapping, and after mowing today I came in to try the paper test. After scalping most of the yard, it failed and I begin trying to figure out how to get the chain guard off. Anyone have step-by-step instructions on how to do this? I have some pinhigh 120 grit ordered and on it's way!


Congrats on the new purchase :thumbup:

1) Not sure what wrench you are talking about specifically or are you talking about the spanner wrench that is used to adjust the reel up and down to the bedknife?

2) Not sure if it's the same as the C25 that I use to have but to remove the chain guard there were like 3 bolts that held it on and then it just came right off.


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## cnet24

@Mightyquinn yes the spanner wrench is another tool I need, but I'm speaking to the piece in the picture below. I think these are needed to get the bolts off? I tried all of my wrenches but didn't have one that fit. Also, there isn't enough clearance for a rachet to grip the bolt. So, before I buy a bunch of wrenches that are the wrong size, I thought I'd ask to see if anyone knew.


----------



## Mightyquinn

If they are 1" wrenches they are used to adjust the clutches on the TruCut. You need thin wrenches to make the adjustments but it "can" be done with regular ones.


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## SGrabs33

Congrats on your new reel!

Here are the standard tools for the TruCut:



Top 2 are the 1in wrenches that I believe your talking about. They are helpful when adjusting either clutches. The real benefit of these is that they are super thin. You would most likely have to grind down standard wrenches to get them to fit. If you buy these get two.

Third is the spanner wrench that MQ is talking about. It's used for backlapping and adjusting the distance between the reel and bedknife. This can be done without the tool but IMO it does make it easier. Anything to make backlapping easier :thumbup:

Last is a 15/16 socket used for backlapping. It goes around the reel nut to be able to spin the reel backwards.


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## cnet24

Thanks @SGrabs33 - those pictures are very helpful!

One more questions about the 1in wrench & spanner wrench- are these tru-cut specific? Or do you think I can get away with other brands?

For example, the spanner wrench is listed on the Dolphin OPE website to be $29.95- I found this universal one through Ace Hardware for only $9:

http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=19969716&KPID=15426230&cid=CAPLA:G:Shopping_-_Catch_All_-_DT_-_RLSA&pla=pla_15426230&k_clickid=69b36122-bb0e-4b1f-b8f8-3417c1555603&gclid=Cj0KCQiAiKrUBRD6ARIsADS2OLm5HjgswG7QvCeIg9Zejy18dtFXtTIxhhk6LeUz03enKsNbBbdoN3kaAiQpEALw_wcB

I'm fine with ordering the original tools, but if I can get away with a cheaper option (like listed above), I'd rather go that route. I just don't know if the included tools are very specific to the mower.

Also, thanks for the clarification on the socket. I was wondering what size was needed!


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## SGrabs33

both Could prob be non TruCut but you would have to check the specs. The only thing special with the 1in wrench is that it's really thin. There are two nuts side by side and it has to be thin to get a wrench in each. 
The spanner wrench you linked looks like it can work. I am not sure if anyone has had luck with these aftermarket ones. Maybe someone else will chime in. All 3 wrenches of mine are TruCut.


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## Adrian82

I am going to give the ACE hardware spanner a shot. If the wrench doesn't work immediately, I am going to purchase the wrench from Dolphin. I purchased a spanner from Harbor Freight and it was a hassle getting it to work perfectly as is required when making reel bedknife adjustments. You may save yourself a ton of pain and effort by splurging on the extra $20.

Last year, I could not replace bearings on my C27. It was a PITA and I never got the reel off. I will take it to Peachtree Mowers sometime next month.


----------



## SGrabs33

Adrian82 said:


> I am going to give the ACE hardware spanner a shot. If the wrench doesn't work immediately, I am going to purchase the wrench from Dolphin. I purchased a spanner from Harbor Freight and it was a hassle getting it to work perfectly as is required when making reel bedknife adjustments. You may save yourself a ton of pain and effort by splurging on the extra $20.
> 
> Last year, I could not replace bearings on my C27. It was a PITA and I never got the reel off. I will take it to Peachtree Mowers sometime next month.


FYI you may have a dealer that is closer than Dolphin. I know Blalock Machinery is the distributor in GA. They don't have an online presence though 😕 Dolphin will get you for shipping too before you hit the min.


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## DetroitRocker

SGrabs33 said:


> The spanner wrench you linked looks like it can work. I am not sure if anyone has had luck with these aftermarket ones. Maybe someone else will chime in. All 3 wrenches of mine are TruCut.


I tried two aftermarket spanner wrenches with no luck before finally purchasing the correct model from an authorized Tru-Cut dealer. The Tru-Cut wrench was only $17 - I was just trying to save myself a 70 minute round trip drive :lol:


----------



## DetroitRocker

On the topic of backlapping - I can't seem to get my reel uniformly sharp after backlapping several times over the course of the last eight months. I use Pinhigh 80 grit followed by 120 grit to finish. The left side of the reel is razor sharp, the center is sharp, and both the left and center pass the paper test with ease. However, the right side feels dull and won't cut paper or will crudely tear it. The reel is making contact with the bed knife; it's just refusing to sharpen.

Should I continue backlapping just the right side until it sharpens? Will continuing to backlap shorten the life of my reel? Is there a lower grit compound I should use first? Something else I am missing?

I could tell last year that I wasn't getting a clean cut on this side of my reel. It definitely would miss a few blades of grass, but would catch them on a re-pass.


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## cnet24

@DetroitRocker how does the bedknife look? Maybe it's making contact on the left side and not the right? An uneven bed knife is the first thing that comes to my mind.


----------



## Mightyquinn

DetroitRocker said:


> On the topic of backlapping - I can't seem to get my reel uniformly sharp after backlapping several times over the course of the last eight months. I use Pinhigh 80 grit followed by 120 grit to finish. The left side of the reel is razor sharp, the center is sharp, and both the left and center pass the paper test with ease. However, the right side feels dull and won't cut paper or will crudely tear it. The reel is making contact with the bed knife; it's just refusing to sharpen.
> 
> Should I continue backlapping just the right side until it sharpens? Will continuing to backlap shorten the life of my reel? Is there a lower grit compound I should use first? Something else I am missing?
> 
> I could tell last year that I wasn't getting a clean cut on this side of my reel. It definitely would miss a few blades of grass, but would catch them on a re-pass.


You may need to raise the left side of the reel so the right side can make better contact to the bedknife. It could just be a fraction of an inch off causing the issue. If you have a feeler gauge that goes down to .002", you could use that to see if the spacing is equal on both sides too. I would NOT recommend just backlapping the right side as it could make your situation worse by taking way more material on that side, causing the gap to grow. Worst case you would have to keep backlapping the left and center to bring the reel down even all the way across. Backlapping will wear your reel down eventually but it would take a really long time to do so. Just be patient and play around with it as I am sure you will figure it out :thumbup:


----------



## DetroitRocker

The reel appears to be making contact all along the bedknife. However, I did notice today that the wear pattern is different on each side. This is the left side, which is cutting beautifully. 


This is the right side, which is not...


You can see the left side has a ~1/32" notch where the reel hits. The right side doesn't have the same wear pattern, so perhaps you are correct. Would the fix be as simple as swapping the bedknife out, or do I have an alignment issue with my reel (e.g., tightening the left side tighter than the right)?


----------



## Mightyquinn

To me it looks like the right side isn't or hasn't been adjusted down as far as the left side which would totally explain the issue you are having.


----------



## ABC123

Could it be a bad bearing on that side?


----------



## cnet24

How do you adjust the bed knife on Tru Cuts? I finally got the correct spanner wrench but not sure how to adjust it.


----------



## DetroitRocker

Mightyquinn said:


> To me it looks like the right side isn't or hasn't been adjusted down as far as the left side which would totally explain the issue you are having.


Would this just be a matter of playing around/adjusting the bolts on the right side of the reel for better contact?


----------



## Mightyquinn

ABC123 said:


> Could it be a bad bearing on that side?


It could be, but I would try to adjust it correctly first and see if it will hold the adjustments before going in and replacing a bearing.



cnet24 said:


> How do you adjust the bed knife on Tru Cuts? I finally got the correct spanner wrench but not sure how to adjust it.


You don't really ever adjust the bedknife on TruCuts, you adjust the reel up and down to the bedknife. You have to loosen 3 bolts on each side of the reel and then use the spanner wrench to move the reel up or down to get the right contact you need. I always found it best to snug the bolts down(just barely more than hand tight) on both sides first and recheck your spacing then go ahead and tighten them. I will say it takes some time to learn the "feel" of what is right when it comes to adjusting the TruCut reel.


----------



## Mightyquinn

DetroitRocker said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> To me it looks like the right side isn't or hasn't been adjusted down as far as the left side which would totally explain the issue you are having.
> 
> 
> 
> Would this just be a matter of playing around/adjusting the bolts on the right side of the reel for better contact?
Click to expand...

Yes, I think that would be the best place to start.


----------



## MasterMech

With as big of a wear issue as you have on that knife, I would consider it scrap and look to replace it before we really get going into the early mowing season. It may also indicate a wear problem on the reel so checking the diameter of the reel on either end and the center would be a good check as well. It is normal for the reel to wear slightly more on the lead-in side resulting in a very slight conical wear profile. If the reel wear is minor, a quick spin grind and new bedknife should have that machine cutting good as new. Always make sure the reel bearings are free of any axial and/or radial play before having the unit ground.


----------



## SGrabs33

cnet24 said:


> How do you adjust the bed knife on Tru Cuts? I finally got the correct spanner wrench but not sure how to adjust it.


As others have said. you adjust the reel to the bedknife on the TruCut.

Here is MQ's thorough walk through, thanks Andy!


----------



## Mightyquinn

SGrabs33 said:


> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> How do you adjust the bed knife on Tru Cuts? I finally got the correct spanner wrench but not sure how to adjust it.
> 
> 
> 
> As others have said. you adjust the reel to the bedknife on the TruCut.
> 
> Here is MQ's thorough walk through, thanks Andy!
Click to expand...

That's for the clutch adjustment I believe :thumbup:


----------



## cnet24

Hey @Mightyquinn I read your explanation via a google search on ATY forum, and I got the sense there was some frustration from Tru-Cut users around adjusting the reel. What is the biggest frustration with this setup?


----------



## SGrabs33

Mightyquinn said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> How do you adjust the bed knife on Tru Cuts? I finally got the correct spanner wrench but not sure how to adjust it.
> 
> 
> 
> As others have said. you adjust the reel to the bedknife on the TruCut.
> 
> Here is MQ's thorough walk through, thanks Andy!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's for the clutch adjustment I believe :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Whoops, I can see pics on my work computer. That would have helped me see that.

The general process has been discussed in this thread. I can do a step by step if it would really be helpful.


----------



## SGrabs33

cnet24 said:


> Hey @Mightyquinn I read your explanation via a google search on ATY forum, and I got the sense there was some frustration from Tru-Cut users around adjusting the reel. What is the biggest frustration with this setup?


IMO it just takes some getting use to. Its not the easiest to adjust precisely and if you tighten the bolts in the wrong order(you should do it as j_nick says below) it can throw off the clearance again. Like MQ said, once you do it a few times you become an expert. Its the biggest maintenance time consumer for the brand in general and that't why, IMO, its the biggest annoyance. Greens mowers are easier because all you have to do with them(I think) is adjust a screw on each side.



J_nick said:


> I'll be talking left and right side, this is if you are standing in front of your mower.
> 
> 
> All bolts hand tight
> Right side tighten bolts at 5 & 9 o'clock
> Left side tighten bolts at 9 & 2 o'clock
> Right side tighten bolt at 2 o'clock
> Left side tighten bolt at 5 o'clock


----------



## Mightyquinn

cnet24 said:


> Hey @Mightyquinn I read your explanation via a google search on ATY forum, and I got the sense there was some frustration from Tru-Cut users around adjusting the reel. What is the biggest frustration with this setup?


To add to what Scott said, adjusting the reel on a TruCut with that spanner wrench can be frustrating as it's hard to move it in very small increments which is sometimes all that you need. That's why it takes some time to just mess around with it and you learn what feel right and what you can and can't do. Even after you think you have it adjusted correctly, you go to tighten the bolts on the left and right side and if you don't do it correctly it can throw your adjustments all out of whack and then you have to start all over again. It's not as bad as it seems but it can be frustrating at first but as long as you know what you are getting into and you are patient it can be done.


----------



## Redtenchu

MasterMech said:


> It may also indicate a wear problem on the reel so checking the diameter of the reel on either end and the center would be a good check as well.


+1


----------



## Topcat

Mightyquinn said:


> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey @Mightyquinn I read your explanation via a google search on ATY forum, and I got the sense there was some frustration from Tru-Cut users around adjusting the reel. What is the biggest frustration with this setup?
> 
> 
> 
> To add to what Scott said, adjusting the reel on a TruCut with that spanner wrench can be frustrating as it's hard to move it in very small increments which is sometimes all that you need. That's why it takes some time to just mess around with it and you learn what feel right and what you can and can't do. Even after you think you have it adjusted correctly, you go to tighten the bolts on the left and right side and if you don't do it correctly it can throw your adjustments all out of whack and then you have to start all over again. It's not as bad as it seems but it can be frustrating at first but as long as you know what you are getting into and you are patient it can be done.
Click to expand...

+1 I found it easier to adjust the reel with the bolts snug - not tight, and not loose. Then I use a brass dowel to lightly tap the indentation where the spanner fits the reel adjuster in the direction desired. It does not take a lot to move the reel at all.
I can't begin to tell you how frustrated I got using the spanner until I ditched it for the brass dowel method.


----------



## DetroitRocker

Mightyquinn said:


> DetroitRocker said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> To me it looks like the right side isn't or hasn't been adjusted down as far as the left side which would totally explain the issue you are having.
> 
> 
> 
> Would this just be a matter of playing around/adjusting the bolts on the right side of the reel for better contact?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, I think that would be the best place to start.
Click to expand...

After spending an hour playing with each bolt, I can't seem to find one that lowers the right side only. Any adjustments with the spanner wrench and/or bolt seem to move the reel in parallel with the bed knife.

Also, it seems to be just two isolated sections where the reel isn't hitting the bed knife. If I divide the right side into thirds, the two outer sections do not hit - the middle does.



If this is further support of a wear problem, is there a good way to check the diameter of the reel other than using a soft sided tape measure? And if it is a wear problem, how do I address it?


----------



## MasterMech

The unfortunate answer is that you are going to need some really expensive equipment to rectify a wear issue with that reel. It would be cheaper replace the mower (several times over) than buy a grind setup which it what you really need to straighten out a reel. The good news is that your local golf club is likely to have a grinder or for sure they know who does.

I know we advocate the DIY approach here on TLF but I really feel you'd be best served having someone with a good bit of experience look at your machine with you and explain what may be happening. You definitely have an alignment issue, likely compounded by either worn bearings or a slightly bent reel if not a warped bedknife.

Backlapping and setting the knife clearance is maintenance work that every reel owner should be up to speed on. But your machine has issues that I don't think will be solved with simple maintenance. But before I totally condemn the reel and knife, I'd have a pro take a look and see what can be done.


----------



## cnet24

SGrabs33 said:


> I don't quite have mine at full throttle unless I am scalping. But yes to feathering the drive wheel clutch while having the reel engaged the whole time. I do disengage the reel going over the sidewalk or driveway just in case it's hiding a rock.
> 
> I also have contact on my reel/bedknife that causes a scraping sound. Light contact should be just fine. The rattle could be a lose chain? Or a lose bolt/nut somewhere?
> 
> Show us a pic!


I started researching this throttle issue tonight- what is the danger in running close to or max full throttle on the Tru-Cut? I've been running mine 2/3 but cranked it up and got way better performance. I will add my lawn has a slight incline, and sometimes the 2/3 throttle would slow down considerably when going up it.


----------



## SGrabs33

cnet24 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't quite have mine at full throttle unless I am scalping. But yes to feathering the drive wheel clutch while having the reel engaged the whole time. I do disengage the reel going over the sidewalk or driveway just in case it's hiding a rock.
> 
> I also have contact on my reel/bedknife that causes a scraping sound. Light contact should be just fine. The rattle could be a lose chain? Or a lose bolt/nut somewhere?
> 
> Show us a pic!
> 
> 
> 
> I started researching this throttle issue tonight- what is the danger in running close to or max full throttle on the Tru-Cut? I've been running mine 2/3 but cranked it up and got way better performance. I will add my lawn has a slight incline, and sometimes the 2/3 throttle would slow down considerably when going up it.
Click to expand...

I don't know of any danger of running it max throttle. Obviously it's more strain on then engine but many of these have commercial grade Honda's on them. What does yours have? I say go for it!


----------



## MasterMech

Anybody know offhand what the max governed rpm spec is for a Tru-Cut? Some engines also lose precision if operated outside of their preferred rpm range. You can usually adjust the springs/geometry of the governor linkage to compensate, within reason.

Also - if increasing the rip'ms of the machine is resulting in a better cut, the reel to bedknife clearance is very likely to be in need of adjustment. Probably a good time to backlap and reset the reel to knife clearance.


----------



## FATC1TY

Looks like I need to tackle my first ever reel to bedknife job shortly. Not cutting paper in a few spots and pinching it instead unless I get some serious spinning on the reel by hand.

Don't have the spanner wrenches. I do have stuff to backlap( and have done before ).

Any tools I should ensure I have before I frustrate myself ?


----------



## cnet24

@FATC1TY I just did this for the first time and it wasn't too difficult. I would recommend the spanner wrench as it makes the job way easier- I posted earlier to a link from Ace that has a $9 adjustable option. Haven't tried it but it may be worth picking up.

Other than that, just need a socket. I would recommend reading through the posts earlier regarding the process as it can be a little cumbersome.


----------



## FATC1TY

Thanks for the info @cnet24

I'll look into the spanner and try to read through where the info on adjusting is.

Doesn't need much, figure adjust it and then backlap and I should be good for a bit.... hopefully.


----------



## cnet24

SGrabs33 said:


> I wonder what made them finally decide to make a few videos.
> 
> The clutch adjustment video is helpful but I find MQs walkthough quite a bit easier to follow. I just used it again the other day when doing some adjusting. Though, it is on the "other site".


Doing some additional reading through this thread now that I have some experience with the mower- what is the point of the clutch adjustment? How do you know when it is needed?

Also- is this the same as the speed reducer install?


----------



## SGrabs33

@cnet24

You want a small amount of distance between the drive sprocket and the clutch plates. I think there is an official amount I remember seeing at some point but I don't remember. I have about 0.025in between the drive sprocket and the clutches. The closer it is the more contact you will have with the drive sprocket when pushing the rods. I always lock in the reel drive when in use so I like that fairly tight. I never lock in the drive so that's a little looser for feel, even though the measurements don't say it.



The speed reducer adds a few different things to the reel. It changes the drive wheel sprocket entirely so that the chains connect elsewhere and that speeds down the ground speed. There is also another separate part that has to be installed. This is something completely different than a clutch adjustment.

Did any of that make sense? I was kind or rambling. I'm happy to make any clarifications.


----------



## cnet24

@SGrabs33 thanks for the reply. I have a speed reducer kit installed in my mower and sometimes I wonder if it is too slow for me.

So what are the signs a clutch adjustment is needed? Simply when the gap is larger than .025?


----------



## SGrabs33

cnet24 said:


> @SGrabs33 thanks for the reply. I have a speed reducer kit installed in my mower and sometimes I wonder if it is too slow for me.
> 
> So what are the signs a clutch adjustment is needed? Simply when the gap is larger than .025?


That would be a good one to start. Also, how easy it is to lock in each of the clutches. Like I said, I wouldn't ever want to lock in the drive clutch. I rather feather that one and I think most people would agree. 
I had a speed reducer on mine Before I seized the clutch. Decided not to get the speed reducer version again because I prefer it to go faster because I am pretty tall.


----------



## cnet24

@SGrabs33 agree with the speed reducer. I am tall as well and my property is on an angle. I'm thinking if I get the speed reducer kit taken off, I'll have more power to climb my incline when I mow, get into the back of my truck, etc.


----------



## J_nick

The speed reduced kit should increase torque to the wheels so it should climb hills easier albeit slower. I guess I'm in the minority here but I lock the drive clutch 90% of the time once I have it pointed in the right direction


----------



## cnet24

I ran into an issue tonight as I was adjusting my reel to bedknife. I cannot get the reel to make light contact- there seems to be an issue on the far left side (if standing in front of the mower). The blade makes contact with the bedknife, however the rest of the reel is not making contact at all. If I can get it past what seems to be a lip in the bedknife on that side, the reel spins freely because no other contact is made. What could be causing this issue?


----------



## Greendoc

Bedknife needs to be removed and the top surface ground so there are no lips on the sides. There also has to be a relief angle ground into the top surface so the contacted area is relatively small.


----------



## FATC1TY

Ugh gotta sit down and get deep adjusted this week. Got a cut in and it was okay, paper only cut on one side, tried to adjust and backlap and I think it's too tight as it squeaks and squeals.

Don't have spanned wrench, used a screw driver and hammer after loosening the bolts, but need to give it a shot and re adjust. I swore I remember there being a secret to adjusting it and then locking down the bolts??

Any help or pointers?? I know it needs to be able to move by hand with not a ton of force needed right ??


----------



## SGrabs33

FATC1TY said:


> Ugh gotta sit down and get deep adjusted this week. Got a cut in and it was okay, paper only cut on one side, tried to adjust and backlap and I think it's too tight as it squeaks and squeals.
> 
> Don't have spanned wrench, used a screw driver and hammer after loosening the bolts, but need to give it a shot and re adjust. I swore I remember there being a secret to adjusting it and then locking down the bolts??
> 
> Any help or pointers?? I know it needs to be able to move by hand with not a ton of force needed right ??


Yep, just a little contact to start the backlapping process. I actually just did it yesterday.

Here is the walk-through on tightening. :



J_nick said:


> I'll be talking left and right side, this is if you are standing in front of your mower.
> 
> 
> All bolts hand tight
> Right side tighten bolts at 5 & 9 o'clock
> Left side tighten bolts at 9 & 2 o'clock
> Right side tighten bolt at 2 o'clock
> Left side tighten bolt at 5 o'clock


----------



## Adrian82

FATC1TY said:


> Ugh gotta sit down and get deep adjusted this week. Got a cut in and it was okay, paper only cut on one side, tried to adjust and backlap and I think it's too tight as it squeaks and squeals.
> 
> Don't have spanned wrench, used a screw driver and hammer after loosening the bolts, but need to give it a shot and re adjust. I swore I remember there being a secret to adjusting it and then locking down the bolts??
> 
> Any help or pointers?? I know it needs to be able to move by hand with not a ton of force needed right ??


If possible, get the Spanner Wrench from Ace Hardware, to save long term pain. Precise micro adjustments are necessary to get the Tru-Cut cutting properly.


----------



## cnet24

@FATC1TY I was running into a very similar issue with the squeaking and squealing. I had a lip on my bedknife on the left side that was keeping the reel from making light contact evenly across- this might be your issue too.

I ended up taking @Greendoc 's advice and took it to Peachtree Mower Company for service and grinding- they did an excellent job and my Tru-Cut is running like a new mower again.

If you decide to take it to get serviced, the sooner the better. I called multiple companies that required about a week for completion since the season is starting in ATL. Good luck!


----------



## FATC1TY

Thanks guys. Will give it a shot again.

@cnet24 thanks for the info!
I'm down on the south side of town and don't want to have to make trips all the way up to Peachtree if I can.

I do have a lip on the bedknife, might have to look into buying a new one and installing it myself.

Got any pics of a worn one??


----------



## cnet24

FATC1TY said:


> Thanks guys. Will give it a shot again.
> 
> @cnet24 thanks for the info!
> I'm down on the south side of town and don't want to have to make trips all the way up to Peachtree if I can.
> 
> I do have a lip on the bedknife, might have to look into buying a new one and installing it myself.
> 
> Got any pics of a worn one??


I personally don't as mine is still a very new mower and the bedknife only needed a grinding. I'm sure others will have.
Check online to see if there is anywhere that will service the mower around you- the Atlanta market has many places that service reel mowers (Howard Brothers, Sosbee's, etc) peachtree mower is just one example I used since they are closest to my house.


----------



## FATC1TY

Might wonder down to the supers shop and see
If they sharpen and work on my mower if it's beyond my workmanship level.

He did offer me a Jake..... my yard however wouldn't be able to appreciate it.


----------



## MasterMech

FATC1TY said:


> Might wonder down to the supers shop and see
> If they sharpen and work on my mower if it's beyond my workmanship level.
> 
> He did offer me a Jake..... my yard however wouldn't be able to appreciate it.


Why not? My yard has definitely benefited from being rolled/cut with my Jake all winter. Of course not paying attention did just cost me $500.....


----------



## KappaSigmaPilot

I am new to the Tru-Cut community as I just bought a used H-20 yesterday. I did my best to backlap the reel today and was in the process of greasing the zerks when I made a mistake. While greasing the zerk on the left side of the center of the reel (if looking from the front) I shot too much grease in and blew out the seal at the left side of reel. How labor intensive is replacing this seal? I plan on having the mower sharpened this week or next. Would this be something they could address while sharpening the reel? Thanks in advance!


----------



## SGrabs33

KappaSigmaPilot said:


> I am new to the Tru-Cut community as I just bought a used H-20 yesterday. I did my best to backlap the reel today and was in the process of greasing the zerks when I made a mistake. While greasing the zerk on the left side of the center of the reel (if looking from the front) I shot too much grease in and blew out the seal at the left side of reel. How labor intensive is replacing this seal? I plan on having the mower sharpened this week or next. Would this be something they could address while sharpening the reel? Thanks in advance!


Congrats on you purchase and welcome to the forum!

I'm not quite positive what you mean by blowing out the seal. Do you happen to have a picture? The grease does ooze out of the bearing when filling it up. I'm wondering if that's what your talking about.

I would assume that most places that would sharpen a TruCut would also be able to help you with other issues. That isn't always the case though. Hopefully we can help out!


----------



## KappaSigmaPilot

SGrabs33 said:


> KappaSigmaPilot said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am new to the Tru-Cut community as I just bought a used H-20 yesterday. I did my best to backlap the reel today and was in the process of greasing the zerks when I made a mistake. While greasing the zerk on the left side of the center of the reel (if looking from the front) I shot too much grease in and blew out the seal at the left side of reel. How labor intensive is replacing this seal? I plan on having the mower sharpened this week or next. Would this be something they could address while sharpening the reel? Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats on you purchase and welcome to the forum!
> 
> I'm not quite positive what you mean by blowing out the seal. Do you happen to have a picture? The grease does ooze out of the bearing when filling it up. I'm wondering if that's what your talking about.
> 
> I would assume that most places that would sharpen a TruCut would also be able to help you with other issues. That isn't always the case though. Hopefully we can help out!
Click to expand...

Thanks! As I was adding grease, I looked at the side of the reel (where the arrow is pointed) and saw that as I squeezed, grease oozed out all around the reel. I reached back to check it out and there were the remains of an old black rubber piece that used to go where the grease was oozing from.... sorry for the lack of technical terms!


----------



## SGrabs33

@KappaSigmaPilot There should def be grease coming out from around the bearing. I am unsure about the plastic part though. I'm assumeing that the last person just didn't ever grease the reel and the old grease turned plasticy(apologies for my terms).

Here is a pic I just took of mine oozing grease for comparison.





I would grab the REEL and try and move it to check and see if it has any movement that it shouldn't. Left, right, up, and down it shouldn't move any really.


----------



## KappaSigmaPilot

@SGrabs33 Thanks for the info and the pictures. I haven't noticed any unusual movement with the reel. It is going to be a learning curve trying to master the reel to bedknife adjustment. Even using the suggested tightening pattern my reel seemed to move while tightening it. Looking forward to figuring this thing out.


----------



## SGrabs33

@KappaSigmaPilot Yeah, it's definatley going to take a little time.

I try and make sure that I keep one hand holding the spanner wrench steady so that it doesn't move while I am tightening the bolts. That has helped me a good amount.

Also, I would nuke all of the grease points with loads of grease. It doesn't seem like the previous owner greased it too much so make sure you do. And I'm being serious I would probably go through 2 sleeves of grease if I were you. Let it ooze out everywhere. Couple bucks worth of grease is much better than a 2-3 hundred dollar replacement part.


----------



## KappaSigmaPilot

@SGrabs33 okay, thanks for the advice. Is it possible to use too much grease on these greasing points or will any excess just ooze out?


----------



## SGrabs33

KappaSigmaPilot said:


> SGrabs33 okay, thanks for the advice. Is it possible to use too much grease on these greasing points or will any excess just ooze out?


I fairly certain the extra will just come out. If there is any of that additional plasticy stuff I just want to make sure that all gets out. Make sure to hit all the points, did you find a good list of where they all are? I think there is a list somewhere in this thread.


----------



## FATC1TY

Used the secret tightening pattern today and was successful. Loosened them all up and then adjusted the reel so the squeal stopped and it moved with a flick of the finger. Got slight contact and checked with two strips of paper and it cut it all the way across.

Tighten it up, checked the paper and it was good. Gave it a 120-180 grit backlap and washed it off. Sounds and feels so fresh now. Gave the front yard a snip. Didn't cut much off. I scalped on lowest setting, and am holding at around .850-1.00 height.

Thanks for all the leads and help guys. I think I can adjust, lock in and backlap now in under 30 min with some confidence.


----------



## SGrabs33

@FATC1TY :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


----------



## WolfmanC18

I have issues catching grass clippings with the grass catcher. They either fly over the top or the exhaust blows them out. Is their an adjustment I need to make to have it work better?


----------



## Guest

SGrabs33 said:


> Does anyone know how to tell the age of a Tru-Cut mower? Or can that not be found?
> 
> The only thing that I have noticed before are the differences in the main chain cover. I believe this is the correct order from oldest to newest..... but I could be wrong.
> 
> Thin chain cover:
> 
> 
> Wider but curved cover:
> 
> 
> Wider but rigid cover:
> 
> 
> Obviously, how the used mower was taken care of is most important but it would be nice to know general age too.


pull the serial number off the engine and you can get a approx age


----------



## SGrabs33

@Nixnix42 Where do you go to look up the serial # of the engine? Honda or Briggs website?


----------



## Guest

https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/faqs/browse/engine-manufacture-date.html


----------



## Coach8

Just bought a 27" used tru cut today. Went to use it for the first time and noticed the reel won't disengage consistently. It was working fine when I tried it out and when I first started mowing at home. Then about 1/2 way through my yard, I noticed the reel was still spinning when I disengaged it. The only way I could get it to stop was to turn off the mower. Anybody got an idea what could be causing that??


----------



## Guest

Luthersrose said:


> I have a tru cut p20 and it seems like I am having to replace the motor chain once a year. It stretches out and the link connector breaks. My guess is the clutch needs replacing. I've ordered a new one and it is on the way. How hard is it to replace? I order the whole assembly thinking it might be easier to replace than just the sprocket and shaft. What adjustments if any do I have to make after installing the clutch?. I have a new chain but it is too tight with the old clutch my guess is with the new one it should be long enough.


I've replaced the whole clutch reel/drive assembly on my old H20 1st year I had it. the clutch disc surface basically wore away and had no more room for adjustment. As I recall it was around $100 for the part and quite a few hours to disassemble and reassemble but doable with the right tools.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Coach8 Sounds like the clutch may need some adjusting. Here is MQs walkthrough. I've done this a few times now myself so let me know if you have any specific questions.


----------



## Coach8

@SGrabs33 thanks! I'll check it out!


----------



## jayhawk

WolfmanC18 said:


> I have issues catching grass clippings with the grass catcher. They either fly over the top or the exhaust blows them out. Is their an adjustment I need to make to have it work better?


It's a piss poor design. I don't have a great ideas but your not alone!


----------



## WolfmanC18

jayhawk said:


> WolfmanC18 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have issues catching grass clippings with the grass catcher. They either fly over the top or the exhaust blows them out. Is their an adjustment I need to make to have it work better?
> 
> 
> 
> It's a piss poor design. I don't have a great ideas but your not alone!
Click to expand...

Agreed. I adjusted the top piece that directs the grass, but it didn't do much. If the wind is blowing harder than the speed of a good, strong fart, I could catch more grass clippings with a butterfly net in my hand.


----------



## njoy1389

@WolfmanC18 this is what I did. It's peice of rubber truck bed mat, it's old and not very pliable, but added the 1x4 for extra support and zip ties on the other end and it just flips up when I need to dump. I have about 6500 sq feet and when I cut regularly only have to dump once anyway. I'm not sure what the % of catch rate is, but I do know that they clippings aren't getting on me or flying up in the air...this my first post by the way been lurking for a while.


----------



## SGrabs33

@njoy1389 Welcome to the forum and very cool mod!

I've never thought about how many clippings my TruCut is missing. It hasn't bothered me too much. Cool mod for sure tho!


----------



## Llano Estacado

njoy1389 said:


> @WolfmanC18 this is what I did. It's peice of rubber truck bed mat, it's old and not very pliable, but added the 1x4 for extra support and zip ties on the other end and it just flips up when I need to dump. I have about 6500 sq feet and when I cut regularly only have to dump once anyway. I'm not sure what the % of catch rate is, but I do know that they clippings aren't getting on me or flying up in the air...this my first post by the way been lurking for a while.


Welcome njoy! Hands down the best forum I've ever been a part of. So many helpful and friendly people.


----------



## njoy1389

First issue I'm having is the rod that goes to the height of cut adjustment handle is rubbing up against this housing.



The handles seem really low as well, I'm only 5'8 and they hit me below the waist making it difficult to feather the drive clutch.



Does the bolt that connects this bracket from the engine to handle need to be tight?





Not sure what slot the height adjustment handle needs to go into. I have this in the all the way up position. And using my DIY HOC I found on here I'm measuring under .5.



Setting I have the roller on.

Bought this unit used from a dealer here in town. I was assured It was sharp and when I got it home it cut paper all the way across. After several mows I started noticing not as clean of a cut. I cannot get it to get paper all the way across unless I have heavy contact. I did backlap and had cutting most of the way across except for about 1/4" in from both ends. So I'm thinking maybe a new bed knife. 
I can take it back to where I bought it from, but I believe some of these things I could handle myself just trying to get some input from you guys first.


----------



## njoy1389

2nd to last picture needs to be at the top. Sorry thought I had them in the right order


----------



## SGrabs33

@njoy1389 Something def seems off. Usually you adjust the handle height via loosening the bolt in the center of your below pic.



It does like look like based on where it is now the handles are in the highest position. Can you give more info on the bracket coming connecting the engine and the handles. I'm guessing it should be tight. Is there any adjustment there?

It does look like a different engine than the usual for TruCuts. What type of engine does it have? If it's not the norm the normal place where the handle bolts to the engine would be different and could be causing these issues. Hope that makes sense.


----------



## njoy1389

It has a subura engine. Dealer told me thEy put it on last fall for the guy. That could be the issue.

Initially when I got this the bracket had the a lot on the other end and I didn't feel like that was right, so I looked at other pictures and turned it around. That's just a Phillips screw long enough to fit, I have the bolt but lost the but so gotta get a new one.



Kinda hard to see down there, but that bolt does seem loose I'll try and tighten that up and see if it will work better


----------



## SGrabs33

@njoy1389 Yeah something is up. Here is a pic of that bracket on my old 20".


----------



## njoy1389

I switched this bracket on mine the other way, I'll turn it back around and go from there tomorrow and see what I can figure out. Thanks!


----------



## cnet24

I'm contemplating backlapping for a 3rd time this season but starting to think that might be excessive. I backlapped twice earlier this season (once after I got the mower, once a few weeks later) after failed paper cut tests. Since then, I have taken the mower to get a full service and sharpening. I got the mower back about a month ago, and after a mow over some aerated cores, I'm failing the paper test once again (went over with my rotary first to break up as much as possible). Reel to bedknife seems good from my limited knowledge. Blades still seem sharp for the most part, but not cutting paper. I just don't want to get too aggressive and wear out reel or bedknife excessively.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Did they put a relief grind on the mower when they sharpened it?


----------



## cnet24

They did, yes. I specifically asked.


----------



## SGrabs33

cnet24 said:


> They did, yes. I specifically asked.


Maybe take a pic of the reel so we can confirm? The only other thing I can think of is if the bolts holding the reel loosen and it changes the reel/bedknife gap.


----------



## cnet24

@SGrabs33


----------



## SGrabs33

@cnet24 Yep, that's a relief grind :thumbup:

I'm not sure what could be causing you to have to backlap that often. Honestly, I don't check that I am able to cut paper that often. I need to be better about it.


----------



## cnet24

I was thinking that before maybe it was because it just needed sharpening, but now that I have it I'm not sure why it's not cutting paper. I just noticed the cut wasn't clean after my last cut, which tipped me off about cutting paper.

It could just be the reel/bedknife. I've read through TL the explanations posted, but still don't have a good feel for it.

Another question- does anyone put lubricant on their actual reel mower blade? They did this for me when I got serviced and said to make sure I keep up with it. I haven't seen that on this forum.


----------



## Guest

I used to spray my reel down with a light coat after backlapping maybe its the ocd in me


----------



## cnet24

@Nixnix42 what do you use? Just like WD-40?


----------



## SGrabs33

I've used wd40 before after a wash and blow dry :thumbup:


----------



## cnet24

I'll give it a try. Thanks @SGrabs33 !


----------



## Guest

https://www.amazon.com/Lubricant-Corrosion-Inhibitor-11-75-oz/dp/B00PWZ0XNM/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1526838419&sr=8-20&keywords=spray+lubricant
fluid film safe for plastics and rubber gaskets too good stuff!


----------



## g-man

@cnet24 how do the leafs look like after mowing? Torn or clean cut?


----------



## cnet24

@g-man I would say clean cut.


----------



## g-man

Then, I would not worry about cutting paper.


----------



## njoy1389

@SGrabs33 thanks I was able to tighten a bolt here and there and fixed all my height issues...

As far as blade/bedknife relationship I'm able to get it to cut paper all the way across, but it takes some good force to rotate the reel...should I try to backlap or is this an indication that I need to replace bedknife.


----------



## Spammage

cnet24 said:


> Another question- does anyone put lubricant on their actual reel mower blade? They did this for me when I got serviced and said to make sure I keep up with it. I haven't seen that on this forum.


I use Stihl's resin remover on my reel after each cut. Zoysia blades are tough and leave a lot of residue on the reel.


----------



## SGrabs33

@njoy1389 great, glad you got the height figured out. Ideally you would have light contact and a little force would allow you to spin the reel. If it's cutting all the way across right now I wouldn't mess with it. You could backlap but it seems like it's cutting well. As long as you don't think the contact is excessive and it's causing extra strain on your engine.

@Spammage That product looks interesting. I hadn't heard of it before and need to check it out. My reels need a good clean and I would like get better at doing it regularly.


----------



## cnet24

So I did a light backlap, slight reel adjustment and added some lubricant and the mower is cutting paper all across. I think I might have finally cracked the code on the adjustment piece. Hopefully this solves my frequent backlapping issue.


----------



## SGrabs33

@cnet24 Glad to heat it!


----------



## njoy1389

How much contact is too much when adjusting reel to bed knife? I can rotate the reel with little to no contact, but it will only cut paper in the middle, pretty close to the middle. Then when I start adjusting it to a little more contact if reel is divided in thirds the middle third will cut. Then I notice the gap on the outer thirds is more than the middle. So I adjust a little more and can get it to cut paper all the way across, but the amount of effort it takes to spin the reel by hand from the position seems like it may be too much contact...
I haven't run it in this position due to fear of causing damage to something. Trying to get some input from you guys. 
I can try and take a video this evening to show.


----------



## SGrabs33

@njoy1389 you want light contact all the way across the bedknife. Also it needs to be even ideally. I think a good backlapping session would help to bring down that middle section to make it even with the ends.


----------



## njoy1389

@SGrabs33 thanks will try that


----------



## Alan

C27 chain size(s).

Can anyone with this mower and the slow down kit installed confirm that ALL of the chains are size 40. There are four(4) chains:

1) engine drive sprocket to clutch
2)clutch assy. to one sprocket on the slow down dual sprocket setup
3)the 2nd sprocket of the slow down setup to the drive wheel
4) the reel assy.

thanks.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Alan

I cannot confirm for sure but when I previously had the speed reduced installed I do not remember any of the chains being different from one of the others.


----------



## Alan

@SGrabs33

Thanks!! Then they should all be size 40.


----------



## SGrabs33

Alan said:


> SGrabs33
> 
> Thanks!! Then they should all be size 40.


 :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


----------



## Swsteven

Hi guys I have a tru-cut c27 and im wanting to install a riding sulky but cant seem to find a mount that will fit. Most sulky mounts require a flat metal in the back of mower but trucut has a round bar.


----------



## SGrabs33

Swsteven said:


> Hi guys I have a tru-cut c27 and im wanting to install a riding sulky but cant seem to find a mount that will fit. Most sulky mounts require a flat metal in the back of mower but trucut has a round bar.


It looks like the OEM sulky is a round attachment. I've never seen one in pictures other than the stock photos. I'm guessing you may have to do some fabrication if your not going to use the OEM one.


----------



## Swsteven

Thats what I was afraid of


----------



## fusebox7

General question about HOC with the TruCut machines... I realize that the HOC range is extremely wide on these machines. Is it reasonable to cut the lawn with the TruCut when the grass blades are above 2"? I love the clean cut the machine gives but since my irrigation is still off and I'm trying to walk the fine line of beating Poa (perennial), triv and get the KBG more established (working so far) I want to cut the lawn higher this year and see how it works out.

Are there any tips to using the H20 (7 blade) with a higher HOC (I realize slower pace/lower throttle = lower frequency of clip for longer grass) but should I put the caster wheels back on or continue with the roller? Any advice on this would be appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## cnet24

@fusebox7 I am not a cool grass person or KBG expert by any means, but on a warm season lawn mowing low will create and encourage lateral growth in the grass, which effectively helps choke out weeds. It's my understanding KBG does have some similar qualities to warm season grasses where mowing low will encourage lateral growth in the grass. Just something to consider before you start mowing high.

I think at 2 inches, you lose the "magic" of a reel mower and I would suggest just using a rotary at that point.


----------



## fusebox7

cnet24 said:


> @fusebox7 I am not a cool grass person or KBG expert by any means, but on a warm season lawn mowing low will create and encourage lateral growth in the grass, which effectively helps choke out weeds. It's my understanding KBG does have some similar qualities to warm season grasses where mowing low will encourage lateral growth in the grass. Just something to consider before you start mowing high.
> 
> I think at 2 inches, you lose the "magic" of a reel mower and I would suggest just using a rotary at that point.


I think KBG has a "widely-accepted" range of cut. The elite cultivars can be maintained as low as 0.5" and as high as 3.5-4" (the crowns will grow taller). My reasoning (since we're getting into this now) is that the poa annua and poa triv will outcomplete the KBG at the lower heights (since they grow faster and love water --- which I'll be needed to do more frequently if mowing low). I don't have any "right" answer for what height is best for my particular situation. I WANT to mow low but I don't want to end up with a 90% poa triv/annua lawn either (I just renovated in 2017).


----------



## jayhawk

Anyone have ideas here? Cut paper except outer, last inchish /edges ....about where wheels are. Can't turn bedknife screws any with Craftsman screw driver. Special tool need I guess?

Result is tearing grass so I can see lines where it looks like tires went.


----------



## SGrabs33

jayhawk said:


> Anyone have ideas here? Cut paper except outer, last inchish /edges ....about where wheels are. Can't turn bedknife screws any with Craftsman screw driver. Special tool need I guess?
> 
> Result is tearing grass so I can see lines where it looks like tires went.


That is usually the first section that doesent cut paper on mine. Is there any lip from where the reel hits the bedknife and the outer section that's wider than the reel? 
Try loading up the screws with some WD40 or PB blaster.


----------



## cnet24

@jayhawk same thing happens on my mower. I tested again yesterday before mowing and it failed on operator's left side. Previously, I was having this issue and took it in for an annual service which did fix it, but for whatever reason, it's failed again. Since it is only occurring with only 1-1.5 inches of the reel, I've decided to look past it for now.


----------



## FATC1TY

Bedknife replacement.....

Pretty easy?? Any easy place to purchase it online ??


----------



## Alan

FATC1TY said:


> Bedknife replacement.....
> 
> Pretty easy?? Any easy place to purchase it online ??


I ordered some stuff for my mower from Dolphin. You'll have to complete a hard copy order form and fax it or email it back to them. They don't take orders over the phone.

http://yhst-130346907426093.stores.yahoo.net/trucutpartscom.html


----------



## FATC1TY

Alan said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> Bedknife replacement.....
> 
> Pretty easy?? Any easy place to purchase it online ??
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered some stuff for my mower from Dolphin. You'll have to complete a hard copy order form and fax it or email it back to them. They don't take orders over the phone.
> 
> http://yhst-130346907426093.stores.yahoo.net/trucutpartscom.html
Click to expand...

Wow. What a time to be alive.


----------



## Alan

FATC1TY said:


> Wow. What a time to be alive.


Huh?

And they have a minimum order of $100 or they'll tack on a minimum order charge of $20(which is a crock if you ask me). I ordered what I needed and a few extras so I hit their $100 threshold.


----------



## FATC1TY

Alan said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wow. What a time to be alive.
> 
> 
> 
> Huh?
> 
> And they have a minimum order of $100 or they'll tack on a minimum order charge of $20(which is a crock if you ask me). I ordered what I needed and a few extras so I hit their $100 threshold.
Click to expand...

Was making a wise crack. How in 2018 companies want a faxed paper order form.

100 minimum is kind of garbage too, but I guess I could find 100 bucks worth of junk to replace on my mower anyways.

Appreciate the help!!


----------



## Spammage

@FATC1TY does Peachtree sell TruCut parts?


----------



## FATC1TY

Spammage said:


> @FATC1TY does Peachtree sell TruCut parts?


Not really sure. I've never used them, but worth calling I guess. Good idea.


----------



## cnet24

FATC1TY said:


> Alan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> Bedknife replacement.....
> 
> Pretty easy?? Any easy place to purchase it online ??
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered some stuff for my mower from Dolphin. You'll have to complete a hard copy order form and fax it or email it back to them. They don't take orders over the phone.
> 
> http://yhst-130346907426093.stores.yahoo.net/trucutpartscom.html
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wow. What a time to be alive.
Click to expand...

I had this same thought after I read the fax comment. Hilarious.


----------



## SGrabs33

Alan said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wow. What a time to be alive.
> 
> 
> 
> Huh?
> 
> And they have a minimum order of $100 or they'll tack on a minimum order charge of $20(which is a crock if you ask me). I ordered what I needed and a few extras so I hit their $100 threshold.
Click to expand...

Yep. I've been hit with that before.

Just add a few of the skinny 1 in. wrenches for clutch adjustments.


----------



## Alan

FATC1TY said:


> Was making a wise crack. How in 2018 companies want a faxed paper order form.
> 
> 100 minimum is kind of garbage too, but I guess I could find 100 bucks worth of junk to replace on my mower anyways.
> 
> Appreciate the help!!


Ahhh, got you. Yeah, that was bizarre.

I don't have a fax or access to one, nor do I have a scanner to get a hard copy into digital format. Fortunately my neighbor has a scanner, filled out the order form, scanned it to .pdf and emailed it to them. In my email, I explicitly asked them to "acknowledge receipt" (the email didn't bounce, so I know it was received, but was it read?), which they did not, so I had to email them again to find out my order status...good help is hard to find.

I think part of the reason they want a hard copy is to have your signature on file for the credit card info. the form asks for.


----------



## TulsaFan

So, I am going to get my first reel grind since owning my mower. I have no idea of the past history of my mower as I bought it used. However, I was told the owner used it a few times and became ill. I bought it at an estate sale. The Honda engine was made in 2012.

So I need to order $100 worth of parts...to keep from paying the $25 fee.
Bedknife blade is $49.45 (I need this in case my bedknife is shot) 
Bedknife screws are $0.93 each and I need (8) according to the diagram. Probably order (16) to

What else would you guys order to complete the order??? What are the most common parts that will need to be replaced?

Here is a photo from last year to give you an idea of my mower's age. It currently has a roller


----------



## Spammage

The mower looks great, so I doubt you will need a new bedknife. Post a pic of it if you want as there are several people here who have had to change them.


----------



## Alan

I have the slow speed option on mine and have replaced that sprocket 2x; it's made out of aluminum. I've replaced the main drive sprocket, the reel chain roller(tensioner looking thing) and chains(sourced locally from Tractor Supply).


----------



## SGrabs33

@TulsaFan How about the spanner wrench or 2 of the 1 inch wrenches for clutch adjustments. 
Maybe eventually you will want another outside chain guard if you get the current one dinged up a bit.


----------



## TulsaFan

SGrabs33 said:


> @TulsaFan How about the spanner wrench or 2 of the 1 inch wrenches for clutch adjustments.
> Maybe eventually you will want another outside chain guard if you get the current one dinged up a bit.


Good call...I do need a new chain guard due to the previous owner. Perhaps he was using it as a battlebot? I already have the wrenches, but I was thinking I might need the replacement bearings everyone mentions???

Also, I called one of the two OKC Tru-cut dealers today and was told my unit was sold new on 7/28/14 and was backlapped one time on 3/17/16. I have backlapped it three times since August of last year when I purchased it.


----------



## KappaSigmaPilot

Alright TruCut gurus... I am attempting to adjust my clutch, as the drive feature quit working the other day as I finished mowing the yard. After pulling the chain guard off I noticed there is about 1/8" gap instead of the .02-.03". I'm now having issues loosening the jam nut on the outside of the sprocket that MQ references in his post. Any ideas how to get it to loosen up?! Thanks in advance.


----------



## SGrabs33

KappaSigmaPilot said:


> Alright TruCut gurus... I am attempting to adjust my clutch, as the drive feature quit working the other day as I finished mowing the yard. After pulling the chain guard off I noticed there is about 1/8" gap instead of the .02-.03". I'm now having issues loosening the jam nut on the outside of the sprocket that MQ references in his post. Any ideas how to get it to loosen up?! Thanks in advance.


They make skinny 1 inch wrenches for this job. If you don't have those you will have to try and get a good grip on the nuts on both the inside and outside of that sprocket. If it's super tight now I would reccomend hitting them with something like WD40 and coming back to them in an hour or so to see if that helps.


----------



## RayTL

I searched, but didn't see it in the thread. Is there any particular brand of grease that works best or that y'all recommended for greasing the zerks?

Thanks, 
Ray


----------



## SGrabs33

RayTL said:


> I searched, but didn't see it in the thread. Is there any particular brand of grease that works best or that y'all recommended for greasing the zerks?
> 
> Thanks,
> Ray


Ive always used one of the Lucas products. Either the green or red has worked well :thumbup:


----------



## RayTL

Thanks @SGrabs33 !


----------



## Spammage

SGrabs33 said:


> RayTL said:
> 
> 
> 
> I searched, but didn't see it in the thread. Is there any particular brand of grease that works best or that y'all recommended for greasing the zerks?
> 
> Thanks,
> Ray
> 
> 
> 
> Ive always used one of the Lucas products. Either the green or red has worked well :thumbup:
Click to expand...

+1, but I've found I prefer the green. I believe it holds up better.


----------



## RayTL

Thanks @Spammage . I think mine has had red used on it for servicing ... or at least the grease I saw looked red. Do you know if they can be mixed?


----------



## Spammage

RayTL said:


> Thanks @Spammage . I think mine has had red used on it for servicing ... or at least the grease I saw looked red. Do you know if they can be mixed?


Lucas says they can, and I've done it without any issues, so you should be able to get whichever you want.


----------



## RayTL

Cool beans, thanks again !


----------



## DetroitRocker

DetroitRocker said:


> On the topic of backlapping - I can't seem to get my reel uniformly sharp after backlapping several times over the course of the last eight months. I use Pinhigh 80 grit followed by 120 grit to finish. The left side of the reel is razor sharp, the center is sharp, and both the left and center pass the paper test with ease. However, the right side feels dull and won't cut paper or will crudely tear it. The reel is making contact with the bed knife; it's just refusing to sharpen.
> 
> Should I continue backlapping just the right side until it sharpens? Will continuing to backlap shorten the life of my reel? Is there a lower grit compound I should use first? Something else I am missing?
> 
> I could tell last year that I wasn't getting a clean cut on this side of my reel. It definitely would miss a few blades of grass, but would catch them on a re-pass.


As an extension of this topic, when I can get my reel sharp (and it is sharp - enough to pass the paper test with ease), it only lasts for maybe five or six cuts before dulling out again. Are both of these issues related to a uneven wear pattern on my bedknife, perhaps?


----------



## Adrian82

SGrabs33 said:


> KappaSigmaPilot said:
> 
> 
> 
> Alright TruCut gurus... I am attempting to adjust my clutch, as the drive feature quit working the other day as I finished mowing the yard. After pulling the chain guard off I noticed there is about 1/8" gap instead of the .02-.03". I'm now having issues loosening the jam nut on the outside of the sprocket that MQ references in his post. Any ideas how to get it to loosen up?! Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They make skinny 1 inch wrenches for this job. If you don't have those you will have to try and get a good grip on the nuts on both the inside and outside of that sprocket. If it's super tight now I would reccomend hitting them with something like WD40 and coming back to them in an hour or so to see if that helps.
Click to expand...

I adjusted my clutch today. I purchased a Skinny Wrench from Amazon a few days ago. Using @Mightyquinn instructions with the skinny wrench and a crescent wrench = :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

Also I used a hammer and flat head to popup the fingers on the outside washer that were laying flat.

My clutch gap must have been +.60. The difference is huge.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Adrian82 Nice! Yeah slight adjustment in the clutch can make a huge difference! Glad it's working well.


----------



## Adrian82

DetroitRocker said:


> DetroitRocker said:
> 
> 
> 
> On the topic of backlapping - I can't seem to get my reel uniformly sharp after backlapping several times over the course of the last eight months. I use Pinhigh 80 grit followed by 120 grit to finish. The left side of the reel is razor sharp, the center is sharp, and both the left and center pass the paper test with ease. However, the right side feels dull and won't cut paper or will crudely tear it. The reel is making contact with the bed knife; it's just refusing to sharpen.
> 
> Should I continue backlapping just the right side until it sharpens? Will continuing to backlap shorten the life of my reel? Is there a lower grit compound I should use first? Something else I am missing?
> 
> I could tell last year that I wasn't getting a clean cut on this side of my reel. It definitely would miss a few blades of grass, but would catch them on a re-pass.
> 
> 
> 
> As an extension of this topic, when I can get my reel sharp (and it is sharp - enough to pass the paper test with ease), it only lasts for maybe five or six cuts before dulling out again. Are both of these issues related to a uneven wear pattern on my bedknife, perhaps?
Click to expand...

I was searching the forums last week about this and came across some conversations where TLFers were communicating that they backlapped every 2-3 weeks to maintain paper-cut sharpness. I plan to check sharpness every two weeks and will backlap as necessary, unless smarter people tell me its not ideal.


----------



## Spammage

Adrian82 said:


> DetroitRocker said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DetroitRocker said:
> 
> 
> 
> On the topic of backlapping - I can't seem to get my reel uniformly sharp after backlapping several times over the course of the last eight months. I use Pinhigh 80 grit followed by 120 grit to finish. The left side of the reel is razor sharp, the center is sharp, and both the left and center pass the paper test with ease. However, the right side feels dull and won't cut paper or will crudely tear it. The reel is making contact with the bed knife; it's just refusing to sharpen.
> 
> Should I continue backlapping just the right side until it sharpens? Will continuing to backlap shorten the life of my reel? Is there a lower grit compound I should use first? Something else I am missing?
> 
> I could tell last year that I wasn't getting a clean cut on this side of my reel. It definitely would miss a few blades of grass, but would catch them on a re-pass.
> 
> 
> 
> As an extension of this topic, when I can get my reel sharp (and it is sharp - enough to pass the paper test with ease), it only lasts for maybe five or six cuts before dulling out again. Are both of these issues related to a uneven wear pattern on my bedknife, perhaps?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was searching the forums last week about this and came across some conversations where TLFers were communicating that they backlapped every 2-3 weeks to maintain paper-cut sharpness. I plan to check sharpness every two weeks and will backlap as necessary, unless smarter people tell me its not ideal.
Click to expand...

One of those was probably me. First, I'm cutting zoysia japonica, which makes bermuda look like a sissy grass in comparison, and maintaining a sharp cut is essential. I would be adjusting and backlapping when my bermuda still looked great.

Second, that was with an old reel and bedknife. Both were replaced this off-season and I've only had to adjust/backlap once thus far this year. I'm really attentive to the reel now and will clean and oil slightly to help it maintain the cut quality. I also think that facing the bedknife is more important than having the reel really sharp.


----------



## tjalexander210

Does anyone have a write up on how to replace the wheels?


----------



## SGrabs33

@tjalexander210 Unfortunatley I don't think I have ever seen someone post on that process.

Are you planning on replacing some worn out wheels?


----------



## StyleGuy

I just picked up this c27 and I have a couple questions. It doesn't cut paper and the bed knife has some nicks and heavy wear so I'm assuming it needs to replaced? Is that something I can do or should I find somewhere to take it? How does the reel look? Also has anyone ever seen a chain cover like this? If it was home built it was done very well. I may just try to backlap it and see if I can get it sharp enough for the rest of the season. Thanks


----------



## g-man

Third image shows how much the original bedknife was and the current wear.


----------



## SGrabs33

@StyleGuy very cool chain guard. I def think that was a home made job.

As for the Reel and bedknife... I agree that the bedknife has quite a bit of wear on it. That is def something that you could do yourself but the REEL also looks like it does not have any relief left on it. That usually means that backlapping will not help much. I'm not good at estimating the life of a REEL but I feel like a few others on here would say it's toward the end of its life. I hope I'm wrong though.

If I were you I'd give backlappping a try, even though I said it may not help much. See how that goes and @ the end of the season take it to a shop and see if they think the REEL/bedknife should be replaced. Taking it to a shop during the winter could make it cheaper for you as they are not as busy then. Unfortunatley I have a REEL with similar wear and I think I will be replacing the combo myself over the winter.


----------



## Spammage

@StyleGuy the chain guard is definitely home made, but the stock one can fill with cut grass, so this could have been the reason for the change.

The reel and bedknife should be ground, with the reel getting a relief grind preferably. I'm guessing that you can get at least another year out of them.


----------



## cnet24

That's actually a really cool chain guard.


----------



## tjalexander210

SGrabs33 said:


> @tjalexander210 Unfortunatley I don't think I have ever seen someone post on that process.
> 
> Are you planning on replacing some worn out wheels?


Yes i plan on replacing them soon. I will provide a write up once I research and perform the replacement


----------



## cnet24

So I mowed yesterday and I started noticing the "washboard" effect on my lawn- I don't have a picture available, but what does that usually mean? Is there a way to easily adjust the mower to fix?


----------



## SGrabs33

cnet24 said:


> So I mowed yesterday and I started noticing the "washboard" effect on my lawn- I don't have a picture available, but what does that usually mean? Is there a way to easily adjust the mower to fix?


I think that means reel possibly isn't spinning fast enough for how fast your walking. Either slow down your walking pace or check to make sure that your reel clutch is adjusted properly so that it's spinning @ max speed when locked in.


----------



## cnet24

Thanks @SGrabs33. I feel like I owe you some $$$ with all the answers you've provided this season!

I snapped a pic of the clutch with the reel fully engaged... anything look off to you?


----------



## SGrabs33

@cnet24 nothing stands out.

Check the distance between the reel clutch and the drive sprocket when disengaged. It may be too wide, causing the reel clutch to not fully engage.


----------



## melliott2005

I've recently gotten a used C27 from a friend that needs quite a bit of work to get back in good shape. I'm very thankful for the posts on this thread because info on how to work on these things is hard to come by.

Anyways, one of the things I planned to do was replace the clutch. I've run into problems with two of the bolts holding it in place. I just cant get good access to them. The only thing left that I can think of it to remove the engine, but I wanted to check with everyone on here to see if anyone has replaced the clutch or removed it in the past. It seems somewhat simple to take the engine off the base, but I would hate to get in "project quicksand" where I end up doing more and more.


----------



## Spammage

@melliott2005 I've replaced the clutch and didn't have to remove the engine to do so.


----------



## SGrabs33

@melliott2005 I agree is not an easy process. I was able to get a pair of vice grips on the head of the bolts on top and then either another pair of vice or a ratchet wrench to loosen the bottom nut. I don't think they are locking nuts so once they are loosened slightly you should be able to remove them by hand. Maybe if it's an older REEL hit the bolts with some WD40 to make it a little easier.


----------



## cnet24

@SGrabs33 I just bought a grease gun tonight and spent some time reading your post about zerk locations... thanks for providing. Your layout was super easy to understand and I found all without issue.

Regarding the far left zerk on your first picture: is this located on the actual axle? I couldn't seem to find it, but after I looked closer I noticed a little hole where I think the zerk was once located. I tried to snap a picture the best I could given the low lighting- is this in the general area of that zerk? If I am missing one, is this something I can get at a local hardware store to replace? Thanks again!


----------



## SGrabs33

@cnet24 Glad the walkthrough helped!

There is a zerk above each of my fingers in the below pic.



That hole does look similar to what it would look like if a zerk was missing. I've looked online before and I think I saw some on amazon. Not sure if a big box would carry them.


----------



## StyleGuy

I've purchased zerk fittings at Lowe's. I think they were less than $1 each. You may also check Home Depot or Autozone.


----------



## cnet24

@SGrabs33 another question for you. I tried to grease the zerks tonight, but none of them would accept the grease and would spill out the side. The only thing I can think of is my gun: I bought a mini gun with 3,200 PSI. I noticed the one you listed in your write up is 7,000 PSI. Could this be the issue? The mower is only in its second season and the zerks have only been greased once (to my knowledge), so I don't think they need to be replaced.


----------



## SGrabs33

cnet24 said:


> SGrabs33 another question for you. I tried to grease the zerks tonight, but none of them would accept the grease and would spill out the side. The only thing I can think of is my gun: I bought a mini gun with 3,200 PSI. I noticed the one you listed in your write up is 7,000 PSI. Could this be the issue? The mower is only in its second season and the zerks have only been greased once (to my knowledge), so I don't think they need to be replaced.


Hmmmm, that's a good one. On mine you can screw the cap where the grease comes out to make it easier/harder to get on and off the zerk. My only though is that yours isn't tight enough to grab the zerk and shoot it into the little hole. I am unsure about the PSI requirements but if yours can only produce half the PSI that mine can that may be an issue. Sorry, I'm not too sure on the answer to this question.


----------



## RayTL

FWIW @SGrabs33 I have one of the smaller guns and it works on my C-27.


----------



## cnet24

Alright: so here is the verdict. I do think the issue was that the fitting on the grease gun wasn't tight enough. After tightening, I was able to get 3 out of the 6 zerks greased correctly. Essentially I pumped grease until I saw the old grease "spewing" out of the joint, is that correct?

1 zerk would not grease at all, and would pop out of its hole every time I put the gun around it. Not sure why.

I was able to locate the other zerk pointed out by @SGrabs33 , but it seemed like the first two zerks he mentions take a lot of grease? I probably put a whole 3oz tube in the left zerk and never saw old grease coming out of any joints? Does that seem correct? I know the grease is going in because I am not having any spill out the sides like in my original post.

Sorry for all of the questions, but 1) I've never messed around with a grease gun and 2) I still seem to be having issues with 3 zerks.


----------



## SGrabs33

@cnet24 Yeah, those back zeros can take a lot of grease depending on when they were last greased. I usually grease all of the points until I have the old grease spewing out like you said. For those zerks that won't take grease or the one that is missing you may be able to use a grease needle. For me it comes in handy for the harder to reach zerks.


----------



## cnet24

Thanks! I'm hoping my grease escapade is behind me now...


----------



## quiby145

So I was replacing my bed knife tonight and ended up drilling out all six screws after trying every method I had of removing them. Does anyone know the size and length of the bed knife screws?


----------



## TulsaFan

No idea, but if you have to order replacements...It is #50 in the diagram or part #90405.


----------



## SGrabs33

@quiby145 Give Dolphin OPE a call, they may tell you. If you can't figure it out I can try and take one out of the trashed REEL that I have and send it to you.


----------



## quiby145

Well I got all six out and tapped the holes. The shortest I could find at my local hardware store is half inch. They are about and 1/8th inch to long. The reel isn't making contact with the screws so it's good for now. I'll order the correct screws in the near future. Now my chain is to long so I had to order another chain. I tried using a #40 that I had laying around and it is to wide for the chain tensioner.


----------



## melliott2005

Im interested in knowing if i can pick up some new screws for the bed knife too, so please post if you find a solution.

I also ordered a new chain guard (the box type one near the engine), but i can't figure out where it attaches. Could someone post a picture of where it attaches? At first I thought it would be the u bolt, but that seems too far back.


----------



## SGrabs33

melliott2005 said:


> Im interested in knowing if i can pick up some new screws for the bed knife too, so please post if you find a solution.
> 
> I also ordered a new chain guard (the box type one near the engine), but i can't figure out where it attaches. Could someone post a picture of where it attaches? At first I thought it would be the u bolt, but that seems too far back.


Let me know if this works for you or if you need any better pics.


----------



## fusebox7

My drive control doesn't seem to be springing back when I release it after feathering the drive. Sometimes it will stick a bit and the machine will keep moving forward when I want it to stop. Any tips? Thanks!


----------



## SGrabs33

fusebox7 said:


> My drive control doesn't seem to be springing back when I release it after feathering the drive. Sometimes it will stick a bit and the machine will keep moving forward when I want it to stop. Any tips? Thanks!


Check the distance between your drive clutch pad and the main sprocket to see if that's ok. Also, there is a spring down where the rod goes into the clutch. You can bend that in the opposite direction to give it a little more spring so that it does not stick as easily.


----------



## fusebox7

SGrabs33 said:


> Check the distance between your drive clutch pad and the main sprocket to see if that's ok. Also, there is a spring down where the rod goes into the clutch. You can bend that in the opposite direction to give it a little more spring so that it does not stick as easily.


Thanks - I'll check tomorrow. I thought about the clutch pad but figured if anything that gap would increase over time and not decrease (since my symptoms are sticking clutch). Maybe the spring you mention has lost a bit of tension so I will definitely test that out and see if it fixes the issue.


----------



## jimbeckel

Can anyone help with connecting a grease gun to the zerk fitting that is located on the right side of the reel. The zerk location would be facing the mower from the front and is located on the right side of the reel and is really hard to get my grease gun connected because the reel obstructs. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## SGrabs33

jimbeckel said:


> Can anyone help with connecting a grease gun to the zerk fitting that is located on the right side of the reel. The zerk location would be facing the mower from the front and is located on the right side of the reel and is really hard to get my grease gun connected because the reel obstructs. Any help would be appreciated.


There should be two zerk fittings on that side. They did two on that side so that one would hopefully be easier to get to. Can you see the other one and is it easier to get to? The other option is to get a grease needle which has been mentioned on here before. That would allow you get a better connection in tight spaces.


----------



## fusebox7

fusebox7 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Check the distance between your drive clutch pad and the main sprocket to see if that's ok. Also, there is a spring down where the rod goes into the clutch. You can bend that in the opposite direction to give it a little more spring so that it does not stick as easily.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - I'll check tomorrow. I thought about the clutch pad but figured if anything that gap would increase over time and not decrease (since my symptoms are sticking clutch). Maybe the spring you mention has lost a bit of tension so I will definitely test that out and see if it fixes the issue.
Click to expand...

Bending the spring in the other direction worked - thank you.


----------



## SGrabs33

fusebox7 said:


> fusebox7 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Check the distance between your drive clutch pad and the main sprocket to see if that's ok. Also, there is a spring down where the rod goes into the clutch. You can bend that in the opposite direction to give it a little more spring so that it does not stick as easily.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks - I'll check tomorrow. I thought about the clutch pad but figured if anything that gap would increase over time and not decrease (since my symptoms are sticking clutch). Maybe the spring you mention has lost a bit of tension so I will definitely test that out and see if it fixes the issue.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Bending the spring in the other direction worked - thank you.
Click to expand...

Great :thumbup:


----------



## jimbeckel

I was able to loosen the shield on the back of the reel and barely got the grease gun on the zerk fitting and was able to push some grease out of the bearing, seems like I was able to get 5 or 6 zerks. Thanks for replying


----------



## SGrabs33

@jimbeckel Great, glad it worked!


----------



## FATC1TY

any part number assistance, and perhaps a place I can easily get this ordered??

Mower was acting kind of funky. Didn't want to go up the hills, then the blade stopped engaging well and was kind of dragging.

Thought the clutch was gone, but I managed to push it and get the blade going and get the front yard cut.

Long story short. The sprocket on the engine drive shaft thst feeds into the main portion of the clutch is completely trashed. It's rounded off enough that it had a loose chain and hence it won't tension up and run the drive chain or put power to the reel.

Any help so I can get this ordered fast?! Yard is headed south fast and was hoping to atleast keep it up through end of the month for an event at our house!


----------



## SGrabs33

@FATC1TY Here is the part number I believe from Dolphin OPE.


----------



## FATC1TY

Thank you!!!

If I order stuff from dolphin- is it best to do over phone in the future ??


----------



## SGrabs33

FATC1TY said:


> Thank you!!!
> 
> If I order stuff from dolphin- is it best to do over phone in the future ??


Yes, they are not too organized in my past experience. I would always give them a call to ask what is best.


----------



## Alan

Note that dolphin has a $100 minimum order or they charge a $20 service charge. So, order $100 worth of stuff or be prepared to spend $22.33+$20.00 for your sprocket.


----------



## FuzzeWuzze

This seems like a good place to ask. Found someone selling a trucut 3.5 hp mower for super cheap but it hasn't run in 2 years and doesn't sound like it was drained. But ran done before.

Not knowing much about reel mowers what are things I should look for to see if it's worth the work? I was just going to check to make sure it had oil and wasn't seized, maybe pull the starter a few times to also make sure it's not stuck. What other things would be a deal killer? Bare in mind this thing is only going for 50 bucks, so if I have to drop 100 in parts to fix it im all for it.

My hope is it just needs the carb cleaned out and maybe a few gaskets.


----------



## SGrabs33

@FuzzeWuzze Do you have any pics?


----------



## Spammage

@FuzzeWuzze the reel, bedknife and clutch are all expensive wear items that you should look at. As @SGrabs33 mentioned, if you have some pics, you may get some good input here.


----------



## FuzzeWuzze

@SGrabs33 @Spammage Here you go


http://imgur.com/SwRTwMk


It looks like its rusted pretty well on the outside, so thats a bit worrisome. The pictures kind of suck i can ask for more if they ever respond. They just show the two catch bins(plastic + metal) and 1 mower shot.


----------



## cnet24

FuzzeWuzze said:


> @SGrabs33 @Spammage Here you go
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/SwRTwMk
> 
> 
> It looks like its rusted pretty well on the outside, so thats a bit worrisome. The pictures kind of suck i can ask for more if they ever respond. They just show the two catch bins(plastic + metal) and 1 mower shot.
> [/@SGrabs33
> 
> I'd ask for pictures of of the parts mentioned above before going. Post here so we can give our thoughts.


----------



## Mrsamman

See if you can get the lesco spreader cheap....


----------



## FuzzeWuzze

Well got an image of the reel, it doesnt appear in great shape it looks like this thing was left outside in the rain here for 2 years.

Is this not something that i could just take apart and clean up with some WD40 or other anti-rust. Or grind some new edges onto the blades?

https://imgur.com/75vEeO2


----------



## SGrabs33

@FuzzeWuzze Yep, very rusty but could be fine with a little cleaning and a backlap. It looks like the isn't excessive wear on the reel so it probably has some
Life left. For 50 bucks give it a go! I've got an older trashed 20" that I'm sure I could pull some parts off for you if needed.


----------



## FuzzeWuzze

Great thanks yea im gonna go grab it later this week. I think i found my Winter garage project


----------



## SGrabs33

FuzzeWuzze said:


> Great thanks yea im gonna go grab it later this week. I think i found my Winter garage project


Nice, looking forward to seeing the progress!


----------



## Coach8

Was mowing tonight and all of a sudden both the reel and self propelled stop working on my 27" tru cut. Took off the chain cover and find that I'm missing a clutch pad on the outside of the sprocket. How difficult of a fix is that for someone who isn't the most mechanically inclined? And would losing a clutch pad on one side cause both the reel and drive to stop working or am I looking at a more serious issue?


----------



## SGrabs33

@Coach8 I think maybe that side doesn't have a clutch pad. I can't remember exactly. I think it may be becasue that side is the reel clutch and that is generally locked in.

I'd look elsewhere to see what might be the issue. Did you all of a sudden lose all power to the wheels and reel? Or was it just really weak power? I can't imagine a worn clutch pad would cause you to lose all power to both.


----------



## Coach8

I was mowing and all was working well and the self propelled stops in the middle of a pass. Then I looked and the reel was engaged but not spinning at all. All the chains were intact and I can move the reel by hand.


----------



## Coach8

Here are some more pics in case you see something I'm missing.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Coach8 How is that sprocket coming off of the engine shaft? Is it worn down?


----------



## Coach8

Its after dark here now but I will check tomorrow. I'm just hoping I'm not gonna have to spring for the whole clutch assembly...


----------



## SGrabs33

Coach8 said:


> Its after dark here now but I will check tomorrow. I'm just hoping I'm not gonna have to spring for the whole clutch assembly...


Yep, it's pretty pricey. Hoping it's just that sprocket that 2 other people on here have had issues with recently.


----------



## FuzzeWuzze

So got the cheapo $50 Tru-cut, siphoned out as much of the old gas as i could that smelled like varnish, and put in some non ethanol and was able to get it to start pretty easily. The movement seems to function when i push in the left knob, but on the right when i push it in i hear some pretty nasty sounds, im hoping it doesnt mean the clutch or something is out and that its just because my blade might be seized by rust since i havent taken it fully apart yet to clean it up. The guy insisted it worked the last time he used it 2 years ago so im hoping its not something major, and he seem'd like a honest guy FWIW, i'm used to shady people on craigslist ad's i guess.

Here's a video of the sound as i push in the right knob(which as i understand it starts the blade?) Ignore the motor revving down, that was me bringing it down so it wasnt so loud for the video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QLeq0ikxmcY

It honestly sounds like a car with a dead battery trying to turn over is the best comparison i can give.


----------



## SGrabs33

@FuzzeWuzze if you can, take that cover off the main sprocket and do a similar video pushing both of the knobs in. That way we can see how the whole clutch is operating.


----------



## FuzzeWuzze

Dont know why i didnt do that the first time, upon taking the smaller cover off for the chain for the blade it was covered rotting dry leaf's and spider webs so took that out and realized that the chain is rusted to high heaven. Unlike the other chains that have some play and grease in them, this one is rock solid as in none of the links move and i have to hit it with a wrench to move it even a centimeter. My guess is the chain is just rusted too badly for the drive to turn it, because if you watch the video you can see the sprocket studdering like its trying to turn but cannot. Let me know what you think.
I drenched the chain in WD40, as i assume the chain is supposed to be tight but not so tight none of the links can even flex. Ill continue to drench in WD40 to see if i can fix it, otherwise take the chain off and make sure it can spin without it and get a new chain which i presume i can get pretty much anywhere?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJsjVoIHsi4


----------



## SGrabs33

I see you took the main chain guard off. What's that looking like when engaging both of the clutches. Sorry for all the requests. Get a good look at both sides when pressing in their respective thumb controls.


----------



## SGrabs33

Have you greases anything at all with a grease gun yet? That would be a good idea before proceeding much more.


----------



## FuzzeWuzze

No i havent done anything other than make sure it would start at all before i did anything else 

Any recommendations on where i should grease?


----------



## Spammage

The chain could be the issue, but the reel could be rusted to the bedknife as well. I wouldn't try it again if you can't spin the reel by hand. In other words, loosen the reel and get it free from any contact, then try to spin it by hand. Don't burn up the clutch, it is the most expensive part except for the reel.


----------



## FuzzeWuzze

Heeding spammage's advice i went out and played with the reel and could not really move it more than a few inches in one direction, the chain now that its been soaked in WD40 for a while definitely seems better. After looking it was indeed just scraping against the bed knife's rust against the reel's rust. After cranking it around a few times with the bolt and liberal WD40 everywhere moving i was able to successfully get the reels engaged and spinning. The first t ime they started tons of wet rust and old yard crap flew out. Couldnt help but take it for a spin in my back yard, and while i may have gotten a little over zealous with my HOC and probably cut too much off in general the cut seemed good.

Now only if my back yard didnt look like poop from 50 trillion dead chopped up seed stalks that wont ever go away.

Now to buy some lapping compound to see if i can get things a bit better. I'm assuming i should probably go pretty course a few times since the blades were rusted?


----------



## FuzzeWuzze

Another question, is this thing supposed to be so heavy to push without the motor propelling it? It a 20" Home model from what i can gather.

With the drive engaged it pulls along nicely at a nice leisurely pace, but once that thing goes off man it turns into a sack of bricks, so doing things like a quick go forward, pull back, repeat in a small area are difficult to pull off as i dont want to be pivoting much and ripping the grass up.

Just want to make sure that its not a symptom of something else being wrong.


----------



## joeker

Anyone have experience or input with Reel Rollers brand for Tru Cut mowers vs the OEM roller from dolphinOPE?

http://reelrollers.com/shop-2/tru-cut-reel-mower-front-wheel-replacement/


----------



## SGrabs33

joeker said:


> Anyone have experience or input with Reel Rollers brand for Tru Cut mowers vs the OEM roller from dolphinOPE?
> 
> http://reelrollers.com/shop-2/tru-cut-reel-mower-front-wheel-replacement/


There is a thread on here somewhere where the owner of REEL Rollers goes over the differences. In short, I think their version is better than OEM. RR better replicates the weight and positioning of the original casters making it easier to lay the TruCut on its back. Also theirs has replaceable bearings which the OEM version does not. I have owner both versions and would go with RR of buying again.


----------



## joeker

SGrabs33 said:


> joeker said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have experience or input with Reel Rollers brand for Tru Cut mowers vs the OEM roller from dolphinOPE?
> 
> http://reelrollers.com/shop-2/tru-cut-reel-mower-front-wheel-replacement/
> 
> 
> 
> There is a thread on here somewhere where the owner of REEL Rollers goes over the differences. In short, I think their version is better than OEM. RR better replicates the weight and positioning of the original casters making it easier to lay the TruCut on its back. Also theirs has replaceable bearings which the OEM version does not. I have owner both versions and would go with RR of buying again.
Click to expand...

Perfect. Thats the answer I was looking for. Thanks @SGrabs33. Also.. Does everyone use the backlapping kit from dolphin? Or do they do the ducttape to sprocket method to run the reel in reverse with a drill? The dolphin kit is pretty steep in pricing


----------



## SGrabs33

@joeker The backlapping kit probably isn't necessary. All you need is a 15/16 socket to go over the large nut.



Probably get the scanner wrench for reel adjustments and the 1 inch wrenches for clutch adjustments.


----------



## joeker

SGrabs33 said:


> @joeker The backlapping kit probably isn't necessary. All you need is a 15/16 socket to go over the large nut.
> 
> 
> 
> Probably get the scanner wrench for reel adjustments and the 1 inch wrenches for clutch adjustments.


@SGrabs33.. 10-4, brother. I appreciate it. Is there a DIY on sharpening the bedknife? I've seen this video( 



 ) on youtube of someone replacing the bedknife/holder and they had to drill every the seized screws.

i'm thinking about grabbing one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustable-pin-wrench-36554.html


----------



## SGrabs33

@joeker that spanner wrench looks like it should work :thumbup:

There shouldn't be any need to sharpen your bedknife unless it has significant dings in it. Backlapping should be enough.


----------



## joeker

SGrabs33 said:


> @joeker that spanner wrench looks like it should work :thumbup:
> 
> There shouldn't be any need to sharpen your bedknife unless it has significant dings in it. Backlapping should be enough.


@SGrabs33 thanks! Looking to buy some pinhigh 120 and 180.

I'm assuming this is the large nut you're referring to as when I turn it clockwise, it rotates the reel in the opposite direction... Interestingly enough, 15/16 is wayyy too large. I was able to get a 3/4" and 19mm socket to grab onto it and there was still a some play.


----------



## SGrabs33

@joeker Sounds good on the compound. Yep, I didn't realize you have the 20" TruCut, that nut is going to be smaller than the one on my 27".


----------



## joeker

Please excuse my question if it seems dumb but.. Why wouldn't you run the reel at full speed regardless of wheel speed? I guess I'm used to using a rotary and running them full throttle all the time.


----------



## SGrabs33

No reason not to. I usually lock in the clutch rod for the reel when I'm using mine.


----------



## Laidbackcat

Joeker said "i'm thinking about grabbing one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustabl ... 36554.html"

let me know how that adjustable pin wrench works, I've been holding off buying the trucut spanner in hopes of finding something else that might work for a few bucks cheaper.


----------



## joeker

Laidbackcat said:


> Joeker said "i'm thinking about grabbing one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/adjustabl ... 36554.html"
> 
> let me know how that adjustable pin wrench works, I've been holding off buying the trucut spanner in hopes of finding something else that might work for a few bucks cheaper.


@laidbackcat It works very well


----------



## joeker

Thanks @SGrabs33. Backlapped and reel roller on!


----------



## SGrabs33

joeker said:


> Thanks SGrabs33. Backlapped and reel roller on!


Looking good :thumbup:


----------



## tcorbitt20

Alright, guys. I somehow managed to strip the nut on the inside of this bolt that holds the reel. I probably overtightened it before I learned of the magic of the correct order to tighten those bolts. I tried using a longer bolt to try to grab better, but no luck. Any suggestions? The nut on the inside is welded on. Would I have to get it replaced, or is there another way I can make it work? Thanks!


----------



## Spammage

@tcorbitt20 go to harbor freight and pick up a tap and die set. You will probably have to go up to a larger bolt size, but it should save you some money and time.

ps - the chain should be on the inside of the guide. If the chain has stretched, you can remove a link to make it work or buy some new chain at tractor supply.


----------



## tcorbitt20

Haha. Whoops! Thanks! @Spammage


----------



## jayhawk

Spammage said:


> @tcorbitt20 go to harbor freight and pick up a tap and die set. You will probably have to go up to a larger bolt size, but it should save you some money and time.
> 
> ps - the chain should be on the inside of the guide. If the chain has stretched, you can remove a link to make it work or buy some new chain at tractor supply.


That's for pro's . I've had to put on an additional locking nut...have the clearance on my 20.


----------



## walk1355

tcorbitt20 said:


> Alright, guys. I somehow managed to strip the nut on the inside of this bolt that holds the reel. I probably overtightened it before I learned of the magic of the correct order to tighten those bolts. I tried using a longer bolt to try to grab better, but no luck. Any suggestions? The nut on the inside is welded on. Would I have to get it replaced, or is there another way I can make it work? Thanks!


Sorry I can't help you but your post made me want to ask you a question. You mention you probably did this before learning the correct order to tighten them...what do you mean? What is the correct order? Educate me brother.


----------



## tcorbitt20

J_nick said:


> I'll be talking left and right side, this is if you are standing in front of your mower.
> 
> 
> All bolts hand tight
> Right side tighten bolts at 5 & 9 o'clock
> Left side tighten bolts at 9 & 2 o'clock
> Right side tighten bolt at 2 o'clock
> Left side tighten bolt at 5 o'clock


@walk1355 It's in this thread somewhere, but this is it. It's not in the manual for whatever reason... It makes it much easier to keep the reel in position after adjusting the bedknife contact. I tried several times before I came across this and never could keep the reel from moving slightly while tightening those bolts. Good luck.


----------



## joeker

tcorbitt20 said:


> J_nick said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be talking left and right side, this is if you are standing in front of your mower.
> 
> 
> All bolts hand tight
> Right side tighten bolts at 5 & 9 o'clock
> Left side tighten bolts at 9 & 2 o'clock
> Right side tighten bolt at 2 o'clock
> Left side tighten bolt at 5 o'clock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @walk1355 It's in this thread somewhere, but this is it. It's not in the manual for whatever reason... It makes it much easier to keep the reel in position after adjusting the bedknife contact. I tried several times before I came across this and never could keep the reel from moving slightly while tightening those bolts. Good luck.
Click to expand...

I used this method when i backlapped and it worked well enough.. After my first mow though, I checked to see if I was still cutting paper and surely enough I wasn't cutting on the outside edges. My Google-Fu led me to an old thread on the aroundtheyard forum where they specifically mention a "special" bolt used to raise and lower the bedknife adjustment. I tried it last night to verify and it definitely works.

https://aroundtheyard.com/forums2/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9103


----------



## cnet24

joeker said:


> tcorbitt20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> J_nick said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be talking left and right side, this is if you are standing in front of your mower.
> 
> 
> All bolts hand tight
> Right side tighten bolts at 5 & 9 o'clock
> Left side tighten bolts at 9 & 2 o'clock
> Right side tighten bolt at 2 o'clock
> Left side tighten bolt at 5 o'clock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @walk1355 It's in this thread somewhere, but this is it. It's not in the manual for whatever reason... It makes it much easier to keep the reel in position after adjusting the bedknife contact. I tried several times before I came across this and never could keep the reel from moving slightly while tightening those bolts. Good luck.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I used this method when i backlapped and it worked well enough.. After my first mow though, I checked to see if I was still cutting paper and surely enough I wasn't cutting on the outside edges. My Google-Fu led me to an old thread on the aroundtheyard forum where they specifically mention a "special" bolt used to raise and lower the bedknife adjustment. I tried it last night to verify and it definitely works.
> 
> https://aroundtheyard.com/forums2/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9103
Click to expand...

Can you post a picture of the bolt they are referring to?


----------



## walk1355

cnet24 said:


> joeker said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tcorbitt20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @walk1355 It's in this thread somewhere, but this is it. It's not in the manual for whatever reason... It makes it much easier to keep the reel in position after adjusting the bedknife contact. I tried several times before I came across this and never could keep the reel from moving slightly while tightening those bolts. Good luck.
> 
> 
> 
> I used this method when i backlapped and it worked well enough.. After my first mow though, I checked to see if I was still cutting paper and surely enough I wasn't cutting on the outside edges. My Google-Fu led me to an old thread on the aroundtheyard forum where they specifically mention a "special" bolt used to raise and lower the bedknife adjustment. I tried it last night to verify and it definitely works.
> 
> https://aroundtheyard.com/forums2/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9103
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Can you post a picture of the bolt they are referring to?
Click to expand...

I just read through that entire thread. I've never made a video but I am going to try and make one in the next couple of months and get it posted on youtube. I've searched high and low for this information as I am a perfectionist and have not been able to find all the information in one place that shows you how to backlap, and adjust the reel all at once. I'm going to create the content this time instead of complaining about it.


----------



## cnet24

@walk1355 that would be awesome. Yes tru Cut content is hard to come by.

And I have only been adjusting the bolts by the spinner wrench area. I've never touched the bolts on the other side...


----------



## joeker

cnet24 said:


> joeker said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tcorbitt20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @walk1355 It's in this thread somewhere, but this is it. It's not in the manual for whatever reason... It makes it much easier to keep the reel in position after adjusting the bedknife contact. I tried several times before I came across this and never could keep the reel from moving slightly while tightening those bolts. Good luck.
> 
> 
> 
> I used this method when i backlapped and it worked well enough.. After my first mow though, I checked to see if I was still cutting paper and surely enough I wasn't cutting on the outside edges. My Google-Fu led me to an old thread on the aroundtheyard forum where they specifically mention a "special" bolt used to raise and lower the bedknife adjustment. I tried it last night to verify and it definitely works.
> 
> https://aroundtheyard.com/forums2/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9103
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Can you post a picture of the bolt they are referring to?
> @walk1355 here you go
Click to expand...


----------



## joeker

walk1355 said:


> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> joeker said:
> 
> 
> 
> I used this method when i backlapped and it worked well enough.. After my first mow though, I checked to see if I was still cutting paper and surely enough I wasn't cutting on the outside edges. My Google-Fu led me to an old thread on the aroundtheyard forum where they specifically mention a "special" bolt used to raise and lower the bedknife adjustment. I tried it last night to verify and it definitely works.
> 
> https://aroundtheyard.com/forums2/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9103
> 
> 
> 
> Can you post a picture of the bolt they are referring to?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I just read through that entire thread. I've never made a video but I am going to try and make one in the next couple of months and get it posted on youtube. I've searched high and low for this information as I am a perfectionist and have not been able to find all the information in one place that shows you how to backlap, and adjust the reel all at once. I'm going to create the content this time instead of complaining about it.
Click to expand...

Just my experience, but I've read many threads suggesting anything other than 120 grit is overkill.. I purchased the pinhigh starter kit that comes with the 80 and 120 and I'm glad I did. When I started the initial backlap with the 80 grit, the only contact my reel had with the bedknife was in the center of the reel. Initially I couldn't get the reel to roll in reverse with my drill/driver so I made the first two turns with my 1/2" socket until the 80 grit loosened it up enough to turn with the drill. After that, I followed up with 120 grit while adjusting the bedknife/reel contact. I'm pretty sure it probably would have worked had I started with 120, but it probably would have taken more adjustments with the spanner wrench


----------



## ttrain

@SGrabs33 did you have a chance to confirm how many zerks on the H-20? I found 6 although I didn't see one on rear axle I saw one on sprocket. Just trying to find out if there are more I could be missing. Thanks


----------



## SGrabs33

ttrain said:


> SGrabs33 did you have a chance to confirm how many zerks on the H-20? I found 6 although I didn't see one on rear axle I saw one on sprocket. Just trying to find out if there are more I could be missing. Thanks


Sorry for the delay in responding. 6 sounds about right. Unfortunately I don't own an H-20 anymore so I cannot go outside and check.


----------



## ttrain

@SGrabs33 thanks for the reply. I just ordered the grease gun so I'll give it a shot soon. I'll likely film to help others although I guess this maintenance task isn't very involved...thanks for your input on the questions from this machine!


----------



## SGrabs33

ttrain said:


> SGrabs33 thanks for the reply. I just ordered the grease gun so I'll give it a shot soon. I'll likely film to help others although I guess this maintenance task isn't very involved...thanks for your input on the questions from this machine!


Happy to help! Yeah, it would be great if you made a video. Even if it's only a few second to point out everything.


----------



## ttrain

@SGrabs33 I did a quick one here, not even sure if this was correct but I tried. I gave you a shout out at the end, if this totally incorrect I will edit/remove. I am still learning so let me know lol.


----------



## SGrabs33

ttrain said:


> SGrabs33 I did a quick one here, not even sure if this was correct but I tried. I gave you a shout out at the end, if this totally incorrect I will edit/remove. I am still learning so let me know lol.


Great video, I'm sure that will help a lot of people. Thanks for the shout out too.

Liked and subscribed :thumbup:


----------



## Reelrollers

joeker said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> joeker said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have experience or input with Reel Rollers brand for Tru Cut mowers vs the OEM roller from dolphinOPE?
> 
> http://reelrollers.com/shop-2/tru-cut-reel-mower-front-wheel-replacement/
> 
> 
> 
> There is a thread on here somewhere where the owner of REEL Rollers goes over the differences. In short, I think their version is better than OEM. RR better replicates the weight and positioning of the original casters making it easier to lay the TruCut on its back. Also theirs has replaceable bearings which the OEM version does not. I have owner both versions and would go with RR of buying again.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Perfect. Thats the answer I was looking for. Thanks @SGrabs33. Also.. Does everyone use the backlapping kit from dolphin? Or do they do the ducttape to sprocket method to run the reel in reverse with a drill? The dolphin kit is pretty steep in pricing
Click to expand...

The Tru Cut 20" and 27" do require a different adapter to back lap. There are adapters and kits on our site ReelRollers.com if you need one.


----------



## joeker

Just curious what oil everyone is using in their tru cuts? Thinking about using some spare Mobil 1 5w30 I have laying around.


----------



## smurg

joeker said:


> Just curious what oil everyone is using in their tru cuts? Thinking about using some spare Mobil 1 5w30 I have laying around.


My P-20 GX120 manual recommends 10W-30 for general use, but also allows for 5W-30 (exceeding SJ API qualification). I just got mine and haven't changed the oil yet, but have some 10W-30 conventional laying around that I will use (exceeds SN+).

https://cdn.powerequipment.honda.com/engines/pdf/manuals/00X37Z4H6100.pdf

But they'll vary slightly depending on engine prefix and serial number; you can search below:

https://engines.honda.com/support-and-service/owners-manuals/gx120


----------



## BakerGreenLawnMaker

Does any know where you can get new rear tires for the C-27? Either online or somewhere relatively close to S. Carolina


----------



## SGrabs33

BakerGreenLawnMaker said:


> Does any know where you can get new rear tires for the C-27? Either online or somewhere relatively close to S. Carolina


Dolphin outdoor power equipment is one of the easier online places.


----------



## BakerGreenLawnMaker

Thanks! I'll check them out.

quote=SGrabs33 post_id=124739 time=1548470146 user_id=65]


BakerGreenLawnMaker said:


> Does any know where you can get new rear tires for the C-27? Either online or somewhere relatively close to S. Carolina


Dolphin outdoor power equipment is one of the easier online places.
[/quote]


----------



## SGrabs33

BakerGreenLawnMaker said:


> Thanks! I'll check them out.
> 
> quote=SGrabs33 post_id=124739 time=1548470146 user_id=65]
> 
> 
> BakerGreenLawnMaker said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does any know where you can get new rear tires for the C-27? Either online or somewhere relatively close to S. Carolina
> 
> 
> 
> Dolphin outdoor power equipment is one of the easier online places.
Click to expand...

Did you end up buying any? I don't think anyone has ever done a walkthrough on switching out the wheels before. Many have asked about it though.


----------



## BakerGreenLawnMaker

SGrabs33 said:


> BakerGreenLawnMaker said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! I'll check them out.
> 
> quote=SGrabs33 post_id=124739 time=1548470146 user_id=65]
> 
> 
> BakerGreenLawnMaker said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does any know where you can get new rear tires for the C-27? Either online or somewhere relatively close to S. Carolina
> 
> 
> 
> Dolphin outdoor power equipment is one of the easier online places.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Did you end up buying any? I don't think anyone has ever done a walkthrough on switching out the wheels before. Many have asked about it though.
Click to expand...

I looked into buying them, but decided to hold off until next year, they're a bit pricey and if I want to stay married... you know how that goes. Lol


----------



## SGrabs33

@BakerGreenLawnMaker I completely understand. The replacement parts aren't cheap, especially if you needed all 4 of them. The other option is to keep your eyes out for a beater to steal them and other potential extra parts from. The wife might not like that either :lol:


----------



## BakerGreenLawnMaker

Probably not. :lol: :lol: She's already mad cause I'm having the reels sharpened professionally.


----------



## BakerGreenLawnMaker

SGrabs33 said:


> @BakerGreenLawnMaker I completely understand. The replacement parts aren't cheap, especially if you needed all 4 of them. The other option is to keep your eyes out for a beater to steal them and other potential extra parts from. The wife might not like that either :lol:


Do you guys a Triangle Reel sharpens the blades on a TruCut. You're about three hrs from my house.


----------



## SGrabs33

BakerGreenLawnMaker said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @BakerGreenLawnMaker I completely understand. The replacement parts aren't cheap, especially if you needed all 4 of them. The other option is to keep your eyes out for a beater to steal them and other potential extra parts from. The wife might not like that either :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys a Triangle Reel sharpens the blades on a TruCut. You're about three hrs from my house.
Click to expand...

We provide backlapping and other general maintenance but no REEL grinding. I actually had a guy and his fam come up last year from Rock Hill to buy a REEL.


----------



## BakerGreenLawnMaker

SGrabs33 said:


> BakerGreenLawnMaker said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @BakerGreenLawnMaker I completely understand. The replacement parts aren't cheap, especially if you needed all 4 of them. The other option is to keep your eyes out for a beater to steal them and other potential extra parts from. The wife might not like that either :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys a Triangle Reel sharpens the blades on a TruCut. You're about three hrs from my house.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> We provide backlapping and other general maintenance but no REEL grinding. I actually had a guy and his fam come up last year from Rock Hill to buy a REEL.
Click to expand...

Nice! Lucky guy!


----------



## Coach8

Replacing the motor sprocket and chain on my C27. Got the chain off, took the Allen head bolt out that holds the sprocket on to the shaft. But cant get it to budge. Sprayed some fluid film on it to try to get it to come loose but no dice. Any ideas? Am I missing something? It seems like it should just slide off.


----------



## SGrabs33

Coach8 said:


> Replacing the motor sprocket and chain on my C27. Got the chain off, took the Allen head bolt out that holds the sprocket on to the shaft. But cant get it to budge. Sprayed some fluid film on it to try to get it to come loose but no dice. Any ideas? Am I missing something? It seems like it should just slide off.


Sorry I'm not much help. Mine did slide off easily after removing the Allen head bolt. Fluid film prob doesn't penetrate much. Maybe nuke it with pb blaster or wd40 and let it sit overnight.


----------



## wartee

Coach8 said:


> Replacing the motor sprocket and chain on my C27. Got the chain off, took the Allen head bolt out that holds the sprocket on to the shaft. But cant get it to budge. Sprayed some fluid film on it to try to get it to come loose but no dice. Any ideas? Am I missing something? It seems like it should just slide off.


A 2- or 3-jaw puller will do the trick. Just crank it a couple of turns and if it doesn't immediately come loose a tap with a hammer will shock it loose.


----------



## Coach8

Well, I finally got that sprocket off and changed. I did have another question. Is there a clutch pad/lining only on the inside of the drive sprocket? The other side of the housing on mine seems to be metal on metal when engaged. Is that correct or am I missing a clutch pad? Here are close ups of both sides.


----------



## Llano Estacado

The clutch pad is mounted on the sprocket on one side and but on the domed clutch plate on the other side. Hard to say what condition it is in by the pics.


----------



## SGrabs33

Llano Estacado said:


> The clutch pad is mounted on the sprocket on one side and but on the domed clutch plate on the other side. Hard to say what condition it is in by the pics.


Do you know how to gauge how worn it is by looking @ it? This is the one facet of the TruCuts that I not well versed in.


----------



## Llano Estacado

The top pic is likely the pad on the sprocket, still pretty thick if it is. The other one looks decent too. But I'm not 100% sure without seeing it in person. I think new the pads are 3/16" to 1/4" thick, best I remember. As they wear down you'll have to adjust the clutch tension. Don't think its too terribly difficult to do. Just need some thin spanner wrenches.


----------



## SGrabs33

Llano Estacado said:


> The top pic is likely the pad on the sprocket, still pretty thick if it is. The other one looks decent too. But I'm not 100% sure without seeing it in person. I think new the pads are 3/16" to 1/4" thick, best I remember. As they wear down you'll have to adjust the clutch tension. Don't think its too terribly difficult to do. Just need some thin spanner wrenches.


Yep, I have adjusted many clutches. I just have never been able to tell when the clutch pad is near the end of its life and needs to be replaced.


----------



## Llano Estacado

I may be asking you about adjusting the clutch. I'm trying to get my 27" project back together for this season. Its been on the back burner for a year and I'm ready to get it done.


----------



## SGrabs33

Llano Estacado said:



> I may be asking you about adjusting the clutch. I'm trying to get my 27" project back together for this season. Its been on the back burner for a year and I'm ready to get it done.


Would love to see some pics of your 27" project.

Here is the clutch adjustment walk through.


----------



## Coach8

I plan on doing my own backlapping on the 27" tru-cut. I have read different things as far as if a special adapter is needed for this. Can I use a standard socket with my drill or is there something special I need to get? Also, are there any other steps I need to do other than just making sure I have light contact between bedknife and reel and hook up the drill/socket and run it the opposite direction from normal reel movement while cutting while brushing on the lapping compound?


----------



## SGrabs33

@Coach8 Yep, just a socket on a drill should be all you need. Mine takes a 15/16 socket. The process is just how you described. Lightly brush on the compound and run the reel in reverse until the noise lessens. You prob will need to wash it all off and do the paper test to see if another round of lapping is needed.


----------



## Coach8

SGrabs33 said:


> @Coach8 Yep, just a socket on a drill should be all you need. Mine takes a 15/16 socket. The process is just how you described. Lightly brush on the compound and run the reel in reverse until the noise lessens. You prob will need to wash it all off and do the paper test to see if another round of lapping is needed.


Sounds good! Thanks for all the help! I'm sure I will be asking for more as things come up on this Tru-cut!


----------



## SGrabs33

Coach8 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Coach8 Yep, just a socket on a drill should be all you need. Mine takes a 15/16 socket. The process is just how you described. Lightly brush on the compound and run the reel in reverse until the noise lessens. You prob will need to wash it all off and do the paper test to see if another round of lapping is needed.
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds good! Thanks for all the help! I'm sure I will be asking for more as things come up on this Tru-cut!
Click to expand...

 :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


----------



## ttrain

Well I got out for the maiden voyage today and this chain broke. I looked around and cannot find the connecting link anywhere. Would I just need to buy the link and put it back on? Tractor supply my best bet? Any special tools?


----------



## SGrabs33

ttrain said:


> Well I got out for the maiden voyage today and this chain broke. I looked around and cannot find the connecting link anywhere. Would I just need to buy the link and put it back on? Tractor supply my best bet? Any special tools?


Yeah you can try a new connector link. It may be stretched too much and too lose. How much slack did it have before it broke? Best bet may be to replace the chain all together. If your going to do that count the number of links on the old chain and match that with the new chain. #40 chain. You can find it on amazon too.

The chain off the motor looks like it has a little kink in it. That makes me thing the chains are just old and possibly stretched.


----------



## Spammage

@ttrain Tractor supply should have the chain and connection links, half links, etc. I agree with @SGrabs33 too, I would replace them all.

edit - you will need a chain breaker if you don't have one.


----------



## sanders4617

I used a 11m combination wrench on the 3 bolts for reel to bed adjustment. Is there a standard conversion that you guys use? I want to find a bit for my drill to use on these.

Never mind. Looks like 7/16 should work.


----------



## ttrain

@SGrabs33 @Spammage Thanks guys I picked up a #40 connector link this morning so hopefully I can get it put on tonight. I went to HD and TS last night and they did not have it. You ain't learning if you ain't breaking stuff


----------



## SGrabs33

ttrain said:


> You ain't learning if you ain't breaking stuff


Very true!


----------



## cnet24

I really wish someone would put a video out on adjusting reel to bedknife on the Tru Cut... I know there is a walkthrough in this thread but a video would be very informative. Does anyone have the ability to do that?

Also- to set the HOC on a mower with a roller, is it as simple as loosening the bolts that connect it to the mower, moving it higher for a lower HOC, and then tightening again?


----------



## Coach8

Got another question on my Tru cut C27. I recently replaced the motor sprocket and chain. Took it for a short test spin that night and it seemingly worked fine. Went to go start my scalp tonight and I couldn't pull the starter cord. Took the cord/pulley off and it seemed a little sticky. Hit it with some lube and it seemed to free it up. Put it back on and still cant pull it far enough to get it to crank. Started checking other thing and it seems like the drive sprocket is semi seized up causing the chain not to spin. Any ideas on that?


----------



## SGrabs33

Coach8 said:


> Got another question on my Tru cut C27. I recently replaced the motor sprocket and chain. Took it for a short test spin that night and it seemingly worked fine. Went to go start my scalp tonight and I couldn't pull the starter cord. Took the cord/pulley off and it seemed a little sticky. Hit it with some lube and it seemed to free it up. Put it back on and still cant pull it far enough to get it to crank. Started checking other thing and it seems like the drive sprocket is semi seized up causing the chain not to spin. Any ideas on that?


The pic you took on 3/4 had the pad touching. Was it seized @ that point? Hopefully the clutch just needs adjusting and that it is not seized. Can you slip a putty knife in between? Also, what makes it seem "semi" seized? Maybe try loosening the clutch and seeing if you can separate them. Have you greases everything recently?


----------



## Coach8

SGrabs33 said:


> Coach8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Got another question on my Tru cut C27. I recently replaced the motor sprocket and chain. Took it for a short test spin that night and it seemingly worked fine. Went to go start my scalp tonight and I couldn't pull the starter cord. Took the cord/pulley off and it seemed a little sticky. Hit it with some lube and it seemed to free it up. Put it back on and still cant pull it far enough to get it to crank. Started checking other thing and it seems like the drive sprocket is semi seized up causing the chain not to spin. Any ideas on that?
> 
> 
> 
> The pic you took on 3/4 had the pad touching. Was it seized @ that point? Hopefully the clutch just needs adjusting and that it is not seized. Can you slip a putty knife in between? Also, what makes it seem "semi" seized? Maybe try loosening the clutch and seeing if you can separate them. Have you greases everything recently?
Click to expand...

I can get it to turn a bit at times, but not far enough to get the torque needed to start the mower. Other times I pull and it is completely stuck. Should the gap be .025 on both sides of the clutch? Or are they different?


----------



## SGrabs33

Coach8 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coach8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Got another question on my Tru cut C27. I recently replaced the motor sprocket and chain. Took it for a short test spin that night and it seemingly worked fine. Went to go start my scalp tonight and I couldn't pull the starter cord. Took the cord/pulley off and it seemed a little sticky. Hit it with some lube and it seemed to free it up. Put it back on and still cant pull it far enough to get it to crank. Started checking other thing and it seems like the drive sprocket is semi seized up causing the chain not to spin. Any ideas on that?
> 
> 
> 
> The pic you took on 3/4 had the pad touching. Was it seized @ that point? Hopefully the clutch just needs adjusting and that it is not seized. Can you slip a putty knife in between? Also, what makes it seem "semi" seized? Maybe try loosening the clutch and seeing if you can separate them. Have you greases everything recently?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I can get it to turn a bit at times, but not far enough to get the torque needed to start the mower. Other times I pull and it is completely stuck. Should the gap be .025 on both sides of the clutch? Or are they different?
Click to expand...

Yeah .025 on both sides. Try and loosen the clutch if you can and see if it releases. I wouldn't try and run it again until you get it released.


----------



## Coach8

I ordered 2 of the clutch wrenches a while back. Just checked with the place I ordered them from. Only 1 came in. Can I do the adjustment procedure with only 1 of the thin wrenches or is 2 a must?


----------



## Jeff20

In need of some advice, A guy is selling his tc h20. It's like new, has not been used but a half a season. But he says it needs a new clutch. He said he lowered it to low and it messed the clutch up. He says it will rotate but if it gets to low or in a bind it will stop. Do you think it needs a new clutch or it may need adjusting? .What would it take to fix the problem?Just to let you know I'm not mechanically inclined.


----------



## Spammage

My guess is that it just needs an adjustment.


----------



## Jeff20

OK thanks Spammage, Now to try getting him to come off his price. Looks like the reel has been painted over.


----------



## wartee

Coach8 said:


> I ordered 2 of the clutch wrenches a while back. Just checked with the place I ordered them from. Only 1 came in. Can I do the adjustment procedure with only 1 of the thin wrenches or is 2 a must?


I only have one thin 1" wrench for the inner nut and I use a "full-size" 1" wrench on the outer and it works just fine.


----------



## Coach8

wartee said:


> Coach8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered 2 of the clutch wrenches a while back. Just checked with the place I ordered them from. Only 1 came in. Can I do the adjustment procedure with only 1 of the thin wrenches or is 2 a must?
> 
> 
> 
> I only have one thin 1" wrench for the inner nut and I use a "full-size" 1" wrench on the outer and it works just fine.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I will try that tonight.


----------



## SGrabs33

Jeff20 said:


> OK thanks Spammage, Now to try getting him to come off his price. Looks like the reel has been painted over.


I think that what it looks like when it's new. I don't see any weirdness with the paint. If he thinks the clutch is bad tell him that a new one is like 250. That should help him come down on price.


----------



## Jeff20

OK Sweat! Thanks SGrabs33


----------



## Spammage

Jeff20 said:


> OK thanks Spammage, Now to try getting him to come off his price. Looks like the reel has been painted over.


I agree with @SGrabs33, that is typical for new TruCut reels.


----------



## Coach8

Adjusted the clutch gaps on both sides and got my clearance right. Went to cut and got a few passes in and then the reel stopped. It had opened up too big of a gap as I was running the mower on the reel drive side. Readjusted and the same thing happened. When I tighten up the jam nuts further where they wont budge as easy, the gap is too small. I did have to put some fluid film on the jam nuts to get them to budge at all at first, do you think that could be causing them to move around as I'm mowing? The jam nuts on that side are really loose (I can hand turn them) in order to get .025 clearance.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Coach8 said:


> Adjusted the clutch gaps on both sides and got my clearance right. Went to cut and got a few passes in and then the reel stopped. It had opened up too big of a gap as I was running the mower on the reel drive side. Readjusted and the same thing happened. When I tighten up the jam nuts further where they wont budge as easy, the gap is too small. I did have to put some fluid film on the jam nuts to get them to budge at all at first, do you think that could be causing them to move around as I'm mowing? The jam nuts on that side are really loose (I can hand turn them) in order to get .025 clearance.


Are the clutch plates really thin?


----------



## Coach8

Mightyquinn said:


> Coach8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Adjusted the clutch gaps on both sides and got my clearance right. Went to cut and got a few passes in and then the reel stopped. It had opened up too big of a gap as I was running the mower on the reel drive side. Readjusted and the same thing happened. When I tighten up the jam nuts further where they wont budge as easy, the gap is too small. I did have to put some fluid film on the jam nuts to get them to budge at all at first, do you think that could be causing them to move around as I'm mowing? The jam nuts on that side are really loose (I can hand turn them) in order to get .025 clearance.
> 
> 
> 
> Are the clutch plates really thin?
Click to expand...

They don't seem to be.


----------



## Coach8




----------



## Mightyquinn

Do you have the locking tabs knocked down? Might try adjusting it a hair tighter than recommended.


----------



## Coach8

@Mightyquinn I do not remember there being anything like that on the bolts on the reel side (side I am having problems setting in adjustment). Just the 2 jam nuts. Is there supposed to be something like that on that side as well? I am out of town right now so I can't go look at it.


----------



## jimbeckel

Wheel replacement: challenging to say the least, requires removal of two roll pins in the axle on each side, remove c clips on the end of each axle, remove wheel bearings pressed into the frame and careful disassembly of the differential. Be careful driving the axle out, if you mushroom the axle end it will not come out and potentially will need to be replaced.


----------



## jimbeckel




----------



## melliott2005

@jimbeckel , Great to see someone has replaced the wheels. I realized after my first use of a used C27 that the wheels were going to need replacing much sooner than I had hoped. There's very little information anywhere on anyone who has replaced them. I'm a little initimidated by it.


----------



## wartee

@jimbeckel I did that job ONCE. Never again. Once mine wear out I'll find another mower. If I were forced to do the job again, at least on a 25 or 27" model, I'd cut the axle in half and replace it with the tires. There's a spot on the bigger mowers where the axle doesn't get lunbrication and it seizes up.


----------



## FoldsPocketAces

Quick question guys. When you buy a new reel, does it come sharpened? One shop said it comes sharpened, and another shop told me it needs to be sharpened. I was hoping I could just intall it along with a new bedknife and backlap it.


----------



## jimbeckel

FoldsPocketAces said:


> Quick question guys. When you buy a new reel, does it come sharpened? One shop said it comes sharpened, and another shop told me it needs to be sharpened. I was hoping I could just intall it along with a new bedknife and backlap it.


I would think that buying a new reel it would be somewhat sharp but I would at the very least backlap it. Do the paper cut test after the reel replacement and see how it does.


----------



## jimbeckel

wartee said:


> @jimbeckel I did that job ONCE. Never again. Once mine wear out I'll find another mower. If I were forced to do the job again, at least on a 25 or 27" model, I'd cut the axle in half and replace it with the tires. There's a spot on the bigger mowers where the axle doesn't get lunbrication and it seizes up.


It was a pain to do the job, harder then stripping down the Toro I rebuilt last year. This P20 is going to a member in NC in April.


----------



## jimbeckel

melliott2005 said:


> @jimbeckel , Great to see someone has replaced the wheels. I realized after my first use of a used C27 that the wheels were going to need replacing much sooner than I had hoped. There's very little information anywhere on anyone who has replaced them. I'm a little initimidated by it.


If you decide to tackle wheel replacement I can help you if you have qustions, just shoot me a pm and I can give you my contact info.


----------



## SGrabs33

Nice @jimbeckel. I've got the frame and axle of a 20" in my shop that I was going to pull apart for fun sometime soon. Good info!

@Coach8 are you making sure to loosen the circled nuts below when adjusting each side? Two in the front and two in the back.


----------



## Coach8

I did loosen those at first. After I tightened them back up, I was still able to make adjustments without them loose. Is that the root of my issue?


----------



## SGrabs33

Coach8 said:


> I did loosen those at first. After I tightened them back up, I was still able to make adjustments without them loose. Is that the root of my issue?


I would def try loosening them before the adjustment and tightening them after.


----------



## Coach8

Mightyquinn said:


> Do you have the locking tabs knocked down? Might try adjusting it a hair tighter than recommended.


So those locking tabs need to hook down over the jam nut on the drive side?


----------



## Coach8

Coach8 said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have the locking tabs knocked down? Might try adjusting it a hair tighter than recommended.
> 
> 
> 
> So those locking tabs need to hook down over the jam nut on the drive side?
Click to expand...


This is what it looks like now. On the reel side, there are just 2 jam nuts side by side with nothing on the outside of those except a zerk.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Can you take a picture from the front of the same spot. It appears that you are missing a nut.


----------



## Mightyquinn

After looking some more you may NOT be missing a nut but YES those tabs need to be bent over the nut to keep it from coming loose.


----------



## Spammage

Mightyquinn said:


> After looking some more you may NOT be missing a nut but YES those tabs need to be bent over the nut to keep it from coming loose.


@Coach8 not all of the tabs need to be bent. I've just got two bent on either side of the nut. And, I don't think you are missing anything.


----------



## Coach8

Here are the 2 jam nuts.


----------



## Coach8

Is that what it should look like?


----------



## tcorbitt20

I checked my C27 today. It's cutting paper on the outsides but not in the middle. What could be the cause of that? Does it just need a backlap to even it up?


----------



## wartee

tcorbitt20 said:


> I checked my C27 today. It's cutting paper on the outsides but not in the middle. What could be the cause of that? Does it just need a backlap to even it up?


That's common for the middle to dull first. Just needs to be lapped to cut all the way across.


----------



## tcorbitt20

wartee said:


> tcorbitt20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I checked my C27 today. It's cutting paper on the outsides but not in the middle. What could be the cause of that? Does it just need a backlap to even it up?
> 
> 
> 
> That's common for the middle to dull first. Just needs to be lapped to cut all the way across.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I was hoping that's all it was.


----------



## TexasLawns

I recently bought a P20 tru cut and loving the results so far. However, when conducting a paper cut test I realize that the outer edges (approximately 1 inch each side) do not cut the paper. In other words, the middle 18" cuts perfectly but not the outer edges. I have bought a spanner wrench and tried adjusting. Adjusting the reel tighter makes it difficult to turn by hand. I have read a post that suggest loosening the top bolt of the bedknife assembly. I have not tried this yet but will soon. Does anyone else have suggestions or experienced this in the past?

Additional note, I have not noticed any uncut grass. Machine seems to be cutting across the full 20" and not leaving stragglers. Right now the grass is 50% green and coming out of dormant. I'm concerned that when the lawn is completly green and thick I will start to see uncut blades. Thanks.


----------



## SGrabs33

@TexasLawns if it seems to be cutting the grass ok now I wouldn't mess with it. It most likely will need to be backlapped to bring the middle of the REEL back in line with the edges.

I haven't heard the trick with loosening the bolt on the bedknife before. It could be worth a try but more likely than not backlapping the REEL will fix the issue.


----------



## TexasLawns

SGrabs33 said:


> @TexasLawns if it seems to be cutting the grass ok now I wouldn't mess with it. It most likely will need to be backlapped to bring the middle of the REEL back in line with the edges.
> 
> I haven't heard the trick with loosening the bolt on the bedknife before. It could be worth a try but more likely than not backlapping the REEL will fix the issue.


Well, it worked! Backed top bolts of the bedknife assembly on each side to less than finger tight. At that setting it wasn't cutting at all. Made reel adjustments with the spanner wrench and tightened bedknife bolds a couple of turns past finger tight. It's cutting all the way across now! Does anyone know the torque specs for the bedknife and reel bolts? There is definitely a secret to it to make it all match up properly.

P.S. I have officially schredded every piece of junk mail in the house doing the paper test.


----------



## sanders4617

Do you guys have a strong smell of gas after mowing with the Tru Cut? I used it the last 2 days. The first day, I went and stored it back in the garage. Yesterday I got home from work and the house was starting to smell like gas. Basically the smell from the garage was working into the house.

So I open the garage doors, let it air out with the Tru Cut parked outside. The smell went away and all is good.

I used the Tru Cut for another 20-30 minutes yesterday and left it outside. Late last night, I went to put the mower in garage. I figured the smell would have escaped and went off into the open air. But as got down and smelled around (lol), I noticed there is still a strong smell of gas around the engine.

Is this normal with all of these or could I have something going on? I also used my push mower and riding mower, but it did not have any residual smell and could be stored in garage with no problem.

I'm not a mechanic by any means, so looking for advice on what to look for.

Thanks


----------



## Spammage

sanders4617 said:


> Do you guys have a strong smell of gas after mowing with the Tru Cut? I used it the last 2 days. The first day, I went and stored it back in the garage. Yesterday I got home from work and the house was starting to smell like gas. Basically the smell from the garage was working into the house.
> 
> So I open the garage doors, let it air out with the Tru Cut parked outside. The smell went away and all is good.
> 
> I used the Tru Cut for another 20-30 minutes yesterday and left it outside. Late last night, I went to put the mower in garage. I figured the smell would have escaped and went off into the open air. But as got down and smelled around (lol), I noticed there is still a strong smell of gas around the engine.
> 
> Is this normal with all of these or could I have something going on? I also used my push mower and riding mower, but it did not have any residual smell and could be stored in garage with no problem.
> 
> I'm not a mechanic by any means, so looking for advice on what to look for.
> 
> Thanks


Sounds like either the gas cap is a little loose, or you could have an issue with a fuel line. Check the cap first. It should provide a little resistance when turning and be tight once on. If you can wiggle it, that could be the issue. Otherwise, check around the carb and the back of the fuel tank to see if you have any leaks.


----------



## drewwitt

Has anyone replaced the reel on a tru-cut? I have a very used P-20 and the 7 blade reel is rounded dull. It won't backlap. I'm trying to find a place locally that will spin grind it, but am not convinced it will work. The unit was in a barn for 7 years and the person selling it didn't even know what it was. They thought it "might be a mower" but wasn't sure. Needless to say I got a fantastic deal. I found parts on dolphins site, but haven't seen any videos or tutorials on how to pull the reel and swap out a new one. I'm wondering if it will be a straight forward process or if there are any tricks involved.


----------



## SGrabs33

drewwitt said:


> Has anyone replaced the reel on a tru-cut? I have a very used P-20 and the 7 blade reel is rounded dull. It won't backlap. I'm trying to find a place locally that will spin grind it, but am not convinced it will work. The unit was in a barn for 7 years and the person selling it didn't even know what it was. They thought it "might be a mower" but wasn't sure. Needless to say I got a fantastic deal. I found parts on dolphins site, but haven't seen any videos or tutorials on how to pull the reel and swap out a new one. I'm wondering if it will be a straight forward process or if there are any tricks involved.


I did it a while back and it wasn't too bad. I think trying to figure out how to get the bearings on was the hardest part for me. The bearings just sit in "bearing retainers" which sit in the frame of the mower.

Do you have any pics of REEL your replacing? I'd be interested to see how it looks.


----------



## drewwitt

it was fully rusted and my back-lapping took the surface rust off. But the edge is rounded and is smooth. I also have a new reel rollers front roller I'm going to put on it.


----------



## bblanco

i just received a tru cut c27 uncrated it, put it together, started it, it goes forward, but the blades won't engage and turn?


----------



## Spammage

@drewwitt looks like a grind could be all it needs.

@bblanco is there any resistance to the reel engagement rod? It could just need the clutch adjusted.


----------



## bblanco

the rod pushes forward it just does nothing , you can spin the blade by hand , nothing is obstructing it,


----------



## Mightyquinn

bblanco said:


> the rod pushes forward it just does nothing , you can spin the blade by hand , nothing is obstructing it,


Is the rod connected correctly?


----------



## drewwitt

Is the spring at the edge of the rod connected? Mine was off and the reel wouldn't engage. I attached the spring and it worked.


----------



## SGrabs33

Maybe take some pictures of the rod attachment area so we can see. It also could be the clutch is extremely lose, but that's less likely.


----------



## SGrabs33

Spammage said:


> @drewwitt looks like a grind could be all it needs.


I agree with this. It could just use a REEL grind. 
But... it all is looking quite rusty and I would question what type of shape the bearings are in so it may be more effective to get a new REEL/bearings. Tough to tell.


----------



## sanders4617

Spammage said:


> sanders4617 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys have a strong smell of gas after mowing with the Tru Cut? I used it the last 2 days. The first day, I went and stored it back in the garage. Yesterday I got home from work and the house was starting to smell like gas. Basically the smell from the garage was working into the house.
> 
> So I open the garage doors, let it air out with the Tru Cut parked outside. The smell went away and all is good.
> 
> I used the Tru Cut for another 20-30 minutes yesterday and left it outside. Late last night, I went to put the mower in garage. I figured the smell would have escaped and went off into the open air. But as got down and smelled around (lol), I noticed there is still a strong smell of gas around the engine.
> 
> Is this normal with all of these or could I have something going on? I also used my push mower and riding mower, but it did not have any residual smell and could be stored in garage with no problem.
> 
> I'm not a mechanic by any means, so looking for advice on what to look for.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like either the gas cap is a little loose, or you could have an issue with a fuel line. Check the cap first. It should provide a little resistance when turning and be tight once on. If you can wiggle it, that could be the issue. Otherwise, check around the carb and the back of the fuel tank to see if you have any leaks.
Click to expand...

Thanks. Smell coming from around the carb area. I cleaned the area really good.. had a lot of sut or whatever. And then also, after I used it yesterday.. I turned the gas off and let it run out of gas.

I didn't ever turn gas lever off before.. so maybe I should've been doing that along with turning switch to off?

No gas smell after last cut cutting gas lever to off.


----------



## RayTL

cnet24 said:


> I really wish someone would put a video out on adjusting reel to bedknife on the Tru Cut... I know there is a walkthrough in this thread but a video would be very informative. Does anyone have the ability to do that?
> 
> Also- to set the HOC on a mower with a roller, is it as simple as loosening the bolts that connect it to the mower, moving it higher for a lower HOC, and then tightening again?


+1 on the video and HOC question


----------



## SGrabs33

RayTL said:


> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I really wish someone would put a video out on adjusting reel to bedknife on the Tru Cut... I know there is a walkthrough in this thread but a video would be very informative. Does anyone have the ability to do that?
> 
> Also- to set the HOC on a mower with a roller, is it as simple as loosening the bolts that connect it to the mower, moving it higher for a lower HOC, and then tightening again?
> 
> 
> 
> +1 on the video and HOC question
Click to expand...

To change the HOC on a machine with a roller varies by brand. For a TruCut you just move the handle pointed out below to the next slot. CalTrimmer and McLane are just as easy. Greens mowers are a little more involved but not to difficult.



Or were you all meaning a rear drum roller?i see now that you both own TruCuts and probably know how to adjust the HOC :?


----------



## cnet24

@SGrabs33 yes but my question would be with the roller, depending on where you put it on (higher or lower) could potentially change the HOC correct? In my mind that would "set" the HOC, and then the lever would adjust?


----------



## Spammage

cnet24 said:


> @SGrabs33 yes but my question would be with the roller, depending on where you put it on (higher or lower) could potentially change the HOC correct? In my mind that would "set" the HOC, and then the lever would adjust?


You are correct.


----------



## SGrabs33

cnet24 said:


> SGrabs33 yes but my question would be with the roller, depending on where you put it on (higher or lower) could potentially change the HOC correct? In my mind that would "set" the HOC, and then the lever would adjust?


Yep, there are two "ranges" of heights based on the two sets of holes which the roller can be placed in.

Here is a breakdown of the ranges I found online.


----------



## drewwitt

SGrabs33 said:


> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> 
> @drewwitt looks like a grind could be all it needs.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with this. It could just use a REEL grind.
> But... it all is looking quite rusty and I would question what type of shape the bearings are in so it may be more effective to get a new REEL/bearings. Tough to tell.
Click to expand...

I pulled the reel off this weekend and stripped the bearings off. Removed all the old grease and pumped fresh grease in. They spin great and there's no wiggle or play in them. I don't think they have to be replaced.


----------



## SGrabs33

drewwitt said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> 
> @drewwitt looks like a grind could be all it needs.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with this. It could just use a REEL grind.
> But... it all is looking quite rusty and I would question what type of shape the bearings are in so it may be more effective to get a new REEL/bearings. Tough to tell.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I pulled the reel off this weekend and stripped the bearings off. Removed all the old grease and pumped fresh grease in. They spin great and there's no wiggle or play in them. I don't think they have to be replaced.
Click to expand...

Great news! Sounds like you just need to find someone to grind the REEL.


----------



## melliott2005

SGrabs33 said:


> RayTL said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I really wish someone would put a video out on adjusting reel to bedknife on the Tru Cut... I know there is a walkthrough in this thread but a video would be very informative. Does anyone have the ability to do that?
> 
> Also- to set the HOC on a mower with a roller, is it as simple as loosening the bolts that connect it to the mower, moving it higher for a lower HOC, and then tightening again?
> 
> 
> 
> +1 on the video and HOC question
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> To change the HOC on a machine with a roller varies by brand. For a TruCut you just move the handle pointed out below to the next slot. CalTrimmer and McLane are just as easy. Greens mowers are a little more involved but not to difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> Or were you all meaning a rear drum roller?i see now that you both own TruCuts and probably know how to adjust the HOC :?
Click to expand...

I thought maybe they were having the same issue I am having. Mine came with a roller whose hardware has to be so tight the handle won't move the HOC. If I loosen it at all the nuts vibrate do much they fall off. I'm curious what hardware comes with an aftermarket roller. I would assume a nylon lock nut or at least a lock washer.


----------



## Paul M

melliott2005 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RayTL said:
> 
> 
> 
> +1 on the video and HOC question
> 
> 
> 
> To change the HOC on a machine with a roller varies by brand. For a TruCut you just move the handle pointed out below to the next slot. CalTrimmer and McLane are just as easy. Greens mowers are a little more involved but not to difficult.
> 
> 
> 
> Or were you all meaning a rear drum roller?i see now that you both own TruCuts and probably know how to adjust the HOC :?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I thought maybe they were having the same issue I am having. Mine came with a roller whose hardware has to be so tight the handle won't move the HOC. If I loosen it at all the nuts vibrate do much they fall off. I'm curious what hardware comes with an aftermarket roller. I would assume a nylon lock nut or at least a lock washer.
Click to expand...

I just install a quick height adjustment kit and front roller on my old Tru Cut as it had fixed casters.. all the hardware used nylon lock nuts so you could tighten them without binding the adjuster. Once tightened they do not come loose.


----------



## tcorbitt20

I tried reading through the thread and using the search button, but I got frustrated (maybe a little lazy too).

I backlapped my C27 once last summer using the kit that came with the mower to reverse the spin using the engine, and it was a huge PITA. I now have a socket big enough to use a drill instead. I'm sure this is a stupid question, but will I need to remove the chain in order to perform the backlapping? Or can I leave it on? Thanks!


----------



## sanders4617

@tcorbitt20 I did not remove chain. Worked with no issues.

I just had my wife control the drill while I did the backlapping. Much easier than trying on my own.


----------



## tcorbitt20

@sanders4617 awesome! Thanks!


----------



## drewwitt

I leave my chain on.


----------



## drewwitt

I just installed a roller from Reel Rollers. It came with no hardware and I used the existing bolt, washers, and nylon lock nut. I tightened them, and then backed off about a full turn until I could move the handle. Took some time to dial it in.


----------



## SGrabs33

sanders4617 said:


> tcorbitt20 I did not remove chain. Worked with no issues.
> 
> I just had my wife control the drill while I did the backlapping. Much easier than trying on my own.


Agreed with this, no need to remove the chain!

That kit that trucut sells does look a little too complex for what can be replaced by a drill and socket.


----------



## Spammage

Maybe I'm weird, but I remove the chain. I don't want anything interfering with or providing resistance to the reel movement while backlapping. Just allows me to know more about the contact with the bedknife.


----------



## Greendoc

Not weird. I do the same when backlapping a Tru Cut, Do not want the chain providing resistance to the drill motor. I want to know the difference between the reel being too tight vs the chain and drivetrain resisting.


----------



## wartee

Greendoc said:


> Not weird. I do the same when backlapping a Tru Cut, Do not want the chain providing resistance to the drill motor. I want to know the difference between the reel being too tight vs the chain and drivetrain resisting.


Agree. I'll add - if you don't remove the chain you need to at least loosen the chain adjuster, if equipped. Otherwise it can be difficult to adjust bedknife clearance for back lapping.


----------



## SGrabs33

wartee said:


> Greendoc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not weird. I do the same when backlapping a Tru Cut, Do not want the chain providing resistance to the drill motor. I want to know the difference between the reel being too tight vs the chain and drivetrain resisting.
> 
> 
> 
> Agree. I'll add - if you don't remove the chain you need to at least loosen the chain adjuster, if equipped. Otherwise it can be difficult to adjust bedknife clearance for back lapping.
Click to expand...

I def agree that removing the chain makes it much easier to adjust the reel to bedknife.

I know this has been mentioned before but @wartee or @Greendoc do y'all have and special tricks with adjusting the REEL to bedknife. It seems like many of us have had issues where the correct clearance has been adjusted and then tightening the bolts throws it off again.

I definitely consider the trucut the hardest of the homeowner REELs to get that clearance set.


----------



## Greendoc

The last bolt on the bottom of the three bolts holding the bearing carrier with the spanner holes is for fine adjustment of the reel. Get it close with the spanner wrench. Tighten the two top bolts, Use the third bolt for the fine adjustment. These mowers are not good about staying in adjustment either. Unless all bolts have been tightened and the reel hammered into position by using a punch on the spanner holes. I know the mower shops in Hawaii do this.


----------



## Greendoc

The last bolt on the bottom of the three bolts holding the bearing carrier with the spanner holes is for fine adjustment of the reel. Get it close with the spanner wrench. Tighten the two top bolts, Use the third bolt for the fine adjustment. These mowers are not good about staying in adjustment either. Unless all bolts have been tightened and the reel hammered into position by using a punch on the spanner holes. I know the mower shops in Hawaii do this.


----------



## wartee

SGrabs33 said:


> do y'all have and special tricks with adjusting the REEL to bedknife. It seems like many of us have had issues where the correct clearance has been adjusted and then tightening the bolts throws it off


No tricks; it's a pain. Inevitably the reel loosens or tightens when torquing those bolts. In my experience it makes no difference what order you tighten them in; after all the bolts are equidistant. I usually snug them slightly then adjust the reel, tighten one side down then do the other. I've probably tried every pattern and sequence there is. Sometimes it goes great the first try and other times it's trial and error.


----------



## Spammage

wartee said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> do y'all have and special tricks with adjusting the REEL to bedknife. It seems like many of us have had issues where the correct clearance has been adjusted and then tightening the bolts throws it off
> 
> 
> 
> No tricks; it's a pain. Inevitably the reel loosens or tightens when torquing those bolts. In my experience it makes no difference what order you tighten them in; after all the bolts are equidistant. I usually snug them slightly then adjust the reel, tighten one side down then do the other. I've probably tried every pattern and sequence there is. Sometimes it goes great the first try and other times it's trial and error.
Click to expand...

That is pretty much the same thing I do.


----------



## Adrian82

While adjusting the reel and clutch, last Saturday, I saw noticed the clutch chain performing doing the robot dance. After inspecting the chain I went to Tractor Supply and purchased 40 chain link. I replaced the clutch and reel chains. So I have extra 40 chain if anyone needs.

Next I plan to replace the carb and spark plug this week. Hopefully, it will resolve my engine surging.


----------



## BakerGreenLawnMaker

SGrabs33 said:


> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 yes but my question would be with the roller, depending on where you put it on (higher or lower) could potentially change the HOC correct? In my mind that would "set" the HOC, and then the lever would adjust?
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, there are two "ranges" of heights based on the two sets of holes which the roller can be placed in.
> 
> Here is a breakdown of the ranges I found online.
Click to expand...

I had STI turf equipment in Charlotte, NC sharpen the blades for me and I just got it back two days ago. Before I took it I believe I had it set to 2.25in I have the height set to as high as I think it can go, but I'm measuring only 1.5in. How do I raise it to 2.25in?


----------



## SGrabs33

@BakerGreenLawnMaker there are two more holes on each side of the roller brackets that you need to move the bolts into. Higher holes = lower cut



Side note, it looks like they only did a spin grind on your REEL with no relief angle.


----------



## BakerGreenLawnMaker

@SGrabs33, what is a "relief angle" and how important is that?


----------



## SGrabs33

BakerGreenLawnMaker said:


> SGrabs33, what is a "relief angle" and how important is that?


You can see in the below there are two angles on the blade. The top one is the relief angle. Having a relief angle ground will make it easier to backlap your REEL in between sharpenings. Not all shops will do them though.


----------



## BakerGreenLawnMaker

So, I'm really confused/disappointed about my TruCut. Last night I pulled it out of my shed, pulled it down the driveway and went to crank it..... nothing. The pulley won't even budge. It's like the engine it completely locked up. Six weeks ago I took it to get serviced, picked up, I cranked it and it was fine. I then drove it to STI in Charlotte had the reel sharpened. I picked it up last week from STI drove it home, crank it up and mowed, no problems. A week later the dang thing won't even turn over. Any thoughts on why?


----------



## SGrabs33

BakerGreenLawnMaker said:


> So, I'm really confused/disappointed about my TruCut. Last night I pulled it out of my shed, pulled it down the driveway and went to crank it..... nothing. The pulley won't even budge. It's like the engine it completely locked up. Six weeks ago I took it to get serviced, picked up, I cranked it and it was fine. I then drove it to STI in Charlotte had the reel sharpened. I picked it up last week from STI drove it home, crank it up and mowed, no problems. A week later the dang thing won't even turn over. Any thoughts on why?


Are the blades or wheels still engaged?
Is the on/off switch off(I've done this an embarrassing amount)
When off can you spin the REEL with one finger.


----------



## BakerGreenLawnMaker

@SGrabs33, Last night, I made sure the switch was set to On, I checked to see if the blades/wheels were disengaged and that's where I'm lost at. Last week when I posted on here regarding changing the height... I tilted the mower back to make the change and never cranked it back up. Do you think the oil is setting in the interior of the engine causing this?


----------



## SGrabs33

@BakerGreenLawnMaker Yes, sometimes laying on its back can cause issues. The most that I've usually heard is it blows smoke for quite a while but not that it won't start. You said the reel spins freely?


----------



## BakerGreenLawnMaker

SGrabs33 said:


> @BakerGreenLawnMaker Yes, sometimes laying on its back can cause issues. The most that I've usually heard is it blows smoke for quite a while but not that it won't start. You said the reel spins freely?


Yes. It spins freely. I called the mechanic and he said I need to remove the spark plug because he thinks the engine or carburetor is clogged up from when I tilted it back. Thanks for your help man!


----------



## smurg

Anyone else have an oil bath air filters on their Honda engine? I have a GX120 specifically, but it uses a 17403-ZE1-810 filter element. It must have been the original since the previous owner seemed to lack on maintenance and maybe cut like once a month anyways (3-4 years old). I cleaned out the oil bath and when I re-oiled the element and squeezed it to release excess oil, it basically fell apart in my hands. I have some aluminum mesh I will try to make one out of that will be sturdy and should be permanent (the trick would be to match the density/airflow of the foam element). Replacement genuine Honda parts are like $6 + $5 shipping, bleh. Found a Briggs & Stratton foam air filter at Walmart that I could cut down if I was desperate.


----------



## Coach8

BakerGreenLawnMaker said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @BakerGreenLawnMaker Yes, sometimes laying on its back can cause issues. The most that I've usually heard is it blows smoke for quite a while but not that it won't start. You said the reel spins freely?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes. It spins freely. I called the mechanic and he said I need to remove the spark plug because he thinks the engine or carburetor is clogged up from when I tilted it back. Thanks for your help man!
Click to expand...

Check to see if the spark plug is wet. Did you say the pulley seems locked up? I had to take my pull cord off and hit it with some fluid film as well as resetting/tightening the pull cord at beginning of the season. Also had to adjust the clutch gaps as the reel side gap was non existent.


----------



## BakerGreenLawnMaker

@Coach8, last night I removed the spark plug, exercised the pull string about 12 times and worked the oil out of the spark plug port, I then put the spark plug back in, cranked her up and she smoked like a BBQ pit for about 5 mins. The TruCut is alive and well. I'll just need to remember to run the engine if I tilt it back to adjust the height again.


----------



## bp2878

Hello all, Im overhauling this 25" mower, new bedknife, bearings, grease, roller chain, paint, oil. Also replacing all the fasteners. Will also do reel and tires if I can find an extra $500 laying around but will likely wait until next season for that. I have a few questions though,

1. Found this little spring in the non-chain side reel bearing housing. Is this just something that fell out of bearing? Or something else?


2. These rings that go on the outside of the mower, (reel bearing housing retainers I guess?) are warped pretty bad, should I replace these also or is this common?



3. What are these adjusment screws for?



4. Possible the most important question, the entire front of the mower is kicked over to the right a bit. The black thing in the pic is a straight edge held against it showing the gap that it has moved. Is this common? I think I could probably beat it back into straight, but not sure if I should.


----------



## SGrabs33

@bp2878 
I haven't seen that little spring before. Check out the parts diagram on Dolphin OPE website. 
Yeah, not sure how those rings are warped. Might as well repair them if your doing a bunch of other stuff. 
Yeah, I would lightly try and straighten that out. 
I believe those adjustment screws just move the grass shield up and down to direct the grass coming out of the front.


----------



## NClawnnut78

So this will be the second season of mowing with my H20 from trucut. I would like to hear others and how they care for their tru-cut and how often.

to let you know what I did this off season.
1) spin grind
2)service, spark plug, air filter, grease points, Chain oiled, new cam shaft LOL long story.

I would like to hear what fellow tru-cut owners do during the mowing season. 
How frequent anyone does the grease points, and the chain to make sure its not dried out in a warm dry climate.
I clean it off with the leaf blower after mowing. How do people clean the build up off the underside of the reel blades and inside the real area?

I have been just running a putty knife lightly across the blades to clean excess off the blade 
how frequently do you adjust reel to bed knife. I am getting the tools free as the dealer forgot to give them to me. LOL long story.

Any tips and tricks are welcome and why has no one done a reel to bedknife adjustment video. I can find videos on others john deer, toro but not Tru-cut I am really close to getting a john deer greens mower and selling my tru-cut..... I found this for backlapping but its not really a video with tips....

The tru-cut is a tank I will give it that...

http://p11.hostingprod.com/@trucutreelmowers.com/TRU-CUT_BL_Kit_Instructions_06_2013.pdf


----------



## bp2878

SGrabs33 said:


> I haven't seen that little spring before. Check out the parts diagram on Dolphin OPE website.
> Yeah, not sure how those rings are warped. Might as well repair them if your doing a bunch of other stuff.
> Yeah, I would lightly try and straighten that out.
> I believe those adjustment screws just move the grass shield up and down to direct the grass coming out of the front.


Didnt see the spring on the parts diagram, not sure how it got in there, Im assuming it fell out of the bearing but who knows.

I will need to buy 4 tires for this mower, 2 on each wheel?

When all is replaced, I will have around 1100$ in this one, could have almost bought a new one. :lol: :lol: :lol: but at least I got to take it apart and put back together, which I kinda enjoy for some reason.


----------



## ttrain

@@NClawnnut78 8 I have the 20" and it is new to me so I am still trying to figure it out as well. I made a quick video pointing out the zerk locations (look back a few pages on this thread). The manual states to grease them every 8 hours of use but I think most ppl do once a month. I played with the reel to bedknife adjustment but have not mastered it yet. Once I do I will video it. I also apologize on the sound of the vids I am still learning a lot. :lol:


----------



## cnet24

@NClawnnut78 before backlapping you will need to make sure you get a relief grind- backlapping with a spin grind will not do you any good.

As for my maintenance, I grease once a month and backlap really when needed. I check the cut quality periodically and will backlap when needed.


----------



## Scbasteve

Hey all,
Long time reader first time poster.... had a c27 for about 3 years now, bought it used and it was not well taken care of but was in decent shape. First year just ran it as is (mistake). After which i found a guy at a local golf course who ground the reel and bedknife for me which worked great but he unfortunately passed away and none of the other courses seem to want to allow any side jobs which brings me to my plan to backlap it. 
So I started by removing the bedknife and grass shield. I cleaned each and then painted the grass shield. Then I took down the high spots from the nicks on the bedknife and reinstalled. Which brings me to question 1: does the grass shield fit into the bedknife holder or does it tuck behind it?

So as I am getting set up to backlap I had it set on the bedknife bar and found that the grass catcher was contacting the reel (with the adjustment screws backed out all the way) so I tucked it behind. As I started back lapping I found that it still contacted the reel. Which brings me to question 2: I was adjusting the reel rearward (moving the cams toward the engine) to bring the reel in contact with the bedknife. Is this wrong? I'm thinking that if I adjust it forward instead this won't be a problem, but it will be striking the bedknife at an odd angle causing it to dull quickly.

Hope this makes sense and any suggestions would be appreciated!

Steve


----------



## smurg

New air filter in place and will test it out this weekend. I wrapped it a bit tight so if it's struggling for air, I'll cut some out and keep it looser.


----------



## sanders4617

Oh great. I've broken a bolt on the reel to bedknife adjustment. lol.

Am I gonna have to drill and tap this hole? Or is there some special easy way that I don't know about?

It looks like the inside nut is part of the frame.. so not gonna be able to use that to my advantage.


----------



## Swede

I purchased a used Trucut Reel mower. My yard has a slope and when I attempt to cut along the slope the mowers auto shut off kills the engine due to the angle of the slope. It is not that steep but as soon as I get to the slope the mower turns off. This is very frustrating. Any ideas on how to bypass the auto shut off? Thanks!


----------



## sanders4617

Interesting @Swede .. I cut pretty steep slopes and no cut off. Bought mine used too. Oil levels good? Maybe triggering the oil shut off when angled?


----------



## Swede

Thanks. I will check that to verify oil good.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

I picked up a used 27'' Tru Cut recently and have been using it for spring cleanup and scalping before I get the blades sharpened at a nearby golf course. The first time I used it I didn't have any issues at all besides it having a slight pull to the left and right. I'm thinking the castor wheels dropping off in ruts is likely the cause which will hopefully balance out once I get the roller installed.

The other day I was using it and noticed the drive doesn't release when I let off the lever but instead continues to keep pulling for a few seconds. I'm not sure if the thumb lever is sticking a little and not disengaging when I release it or if it's a bigger issue. Are there any adjustments that can be made or something I can look for that might be causing this?


----------



## SGrabs33

MeanDean said:


> I picked up a used 27'' Tru Cut recently and have been using it for spring cleanup and scalping before I get the blades sharpened at a nearby golf course. The first time I used it I didn't have any issues at all besides it having a slight pull to the left and right. I'm thinking the castor wheels dropping off in ruts is likely the cause which will hopefully balance out once I get the roller installed.
> 
> The other day I was using it and noticed the drive doesn't release when I let off the lever but instead continues to keep pulling for a few seconds. I'm not sure if the thumb lever is sticking a little and not disengaging when I release it or if it's a bigger issue. Are there any adjustments that can be made or something I can look for that might be causing this?


There should be springs on the end of the clutch rods where they attach to the clutch. Make sure those are there and have good tension. 
Next check would be to check the clearance between the drive plate and the two clutch plates. Search for clutch adjustment and there is a walkthrough.


----------



## cnet24

Swede said:


> I purchased a used Trucut Reel mower. My yard has a slope and when I attempt to cut along the slope the mowers auto shut off kills the engine due to the angle of the slope. It is not that steep but as soon as I get to the slope the mower turns off. This is very frustrating. Any ideas on how to bypass the auto shut off? Thanks!


I use mine on a slope as well. Check the oil and it change- the Honda motors are designed to shut off if oil levels are not correct.


----------



## UFG8RMIKE

Swede said:


> I purchased a used Trucut Reel mower. My yard has a slope and when I attempt to cut along the slope the mowers auto shut off kills the engine due to the angle of the slope. It is not that steep but as soon as I get to the slope the mower turns off. This is very frustrating. Any ideas on how to bypass the auto shut off? Thanks!


This happened with my new to me trucut27 the 1st time I ran it from the person I purchased it from. I changed the oil a few day ago and filled it a little further by tilting back just a hair. Works perfectly now with no shutting off.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Here she is...got a hell of a deal $500 bucks. Think I purchased the one someone mentioned earlier in the thread that was listed on craigslist for 600 bucks. I installed the roller that was included and never used, changed the oil, greased all the zerks, and gave her a bath.

She cuts a business card, but not a single sheet of thin paper. I bought some lapping compound and have a spanner wrench on the way. The reel to bed knife deal sounds like a nightmare, so much so I'm probably better off waiting till it won't cut a business card. She seems to be doing a good job on the new empire zoysia lawn.

It appears there isn't a single shop anywhere close to the tampa area that services or sharpens these things. For those that have the backlapping process down to a science, plz post up some vids!!

Oh..and yes that is a large nutsedge weed in the background. Just took care of it, and the rest with some sedgehammer.

.


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## Spammage

@UFG8RMIKE nice find! Don't be to afraid of the reel-to-bedknife adjustment. You will have to figure it out, but after some initial misery with trial and error, you will be able to get it done. I plan on taking really good notes the next time I do it so I can refer back to them the next time(s).


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Are there videos showing how to adjust the reel to bedknife?


----------



## 95mmrenegade

Make sure you tighten the bolts on the right sequence to prevent the reel from moving.


----------



## smurg

95mmrenegade said:


> Make sure you tighten the bolts on the right sequence to prevent the reel from moving.


This is the post referencing the order: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=100&p=11310#p11310


----------



## 95mmrenegade

Yup


----------



## SGrabs33

smurg said:


> 95mmrenegade said:
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure you tighten the bolts on the right sequence to prevent the reel from moving.
> 
> 
> 
> This is the post referencing the order: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=100&p=11310#p11310
Click to expand...

Worked well for me just now.


----------



## smurg

Also, from previous reading, if your bolts aren't dead nuts tight, you can just tighten the #9 bolt in the above link on both sides to bring the reel in closer to the bed-knife (without going through the loosen and re-tightening steps). I believe the #9 bolt will be the one towards the back on each side (closer to the handlebar end).


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## bp2878

anyone ever changed reel bearings? pretty simple? is a puller needed? what about a press to install new ones?


----------



## Spammage

@bp2878 I needed a puller, but not a press.


----------



## smurg

I just got around to trying to dial in my reel to bedknife clearance as well as backlap. I followed the tightening order in the previous link but the clearance changed by the time everything got tightened down. I just tightened each bolt one at a time and then re-loosened them to finger tight to see how the reel was effected. The effects were the same once I started tightening the rest down. Here's what I found on my P-20 (perspective kneeling front in of the reel looking at it head-on):



The top bolt on the left-side increased the clearance (less contact) when tightened while the bottom bolt on the left-side decreased it (more contact). The opposite was true on the right side: top bolt decreased it while the bottom bolt increased it.

The bolt in the middle on each (front/back) could be tightened down completely with no effect. I did this first to help keep the reel in place from accidental bumping. I just went back to forth with quarter turns between the top bolt on each side, then bottom bolt on each and came out to roughly what I started with. Overall it still ended up a touch looser contact, so I may start with heavy contact and work backwards.


----------



## bp2878

Spammage said:


> @bp2878 I needed a puller, but not a press.


thanks, ill borrow one from autozone. the new ones just slide into place or did you have to hammer them on?


----------



## Spammage

bp2878 said:


> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> 
> @bp2878 I needed a puller, but not a press.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks, ill borrow one from autozone. the new ones just slide into place or did you have to hammer them on?
Click to expand...

I used a large socket with a hammer and "tapped" them into place.


----------



## drewwitt

smurg said:


> I just got around to trying to dial in my reel to bedknife clearance as well as backlap. I followed the tightening order in the previous link but the clearance changed by the time everything got tightened down. I just tightened each bolt one at a time and then re-loosened them to finger tight to see how the reel was effected. The effects were the same once I started tightening the rest down. Here's what I found on my P-20 (perspective kneeling front in of the reel looking at it head-on):
> 
> 
> 
> The top bolt on the left-side increased the clearance (less contact) when tightened while the bottom bolt on the left-side decreased it (more contact). The opposite was true on the right side: top bolt decreased it while the bottom bolt increased it.
> 
> The bolt in the middle on each (front/back) could be tightened down completely with no effect. I did this first to help keep the reel in place from accidental bumping. I just went back to forth with quarter turns between the top bolt on each side, then bottom bolt on each and came out to roughly what I started with. Overall it still ended up a touch looser contact, so I may start with heavy contact and work backwards.


I think you deserve some type of oscar award for doing this!


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## UFG8RMIKE

Horrible design on the reel to bed knife. WTF. Looks like we need an engineer to come up with aftermarket locking tensioner that will allow easier reel to bedknife adjustments.


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## ttrain

@drewwitt are you using the spanner wrench or just adjusting the bolts to move the reel? I just got my trucut H20 back after a shop had it for 3 weeks and it is still not right - long story but time I learn myself.


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## NClawnnut78

Yeah same here reel to bedknife gap cant cut paper.... and my shop works and sells golf course equipment ...Im getting my tools this weekend so hopefully will have time to adjust myself. Also I i hate to say it but im going to sell my tru-cut tank for a John deer greens mower. Easier to adjust HOC. Plus it will be an upgrade to a 10 to what ever blade. Trucut got me hooked on the reel mower look in my yard....


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## drewwitt

@ttrain I don't have a spanner wrench...I want one. I've just been using a hammer and finish nail punch. It's worked pretty good...but I think its because my reel is very old and rusty. It's not as finicky as the others described here.


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## ttrain

@drewwitt thanks for the reply! I think I'm going to try it this weekend. So this may be a very dumb question but is the hammer/punch/spanner wrench for "large movements" to adjust the reel? I think I'm confused as to why you can't just adjust the bolts to move the reel? Sorry this machine is very new to me still...


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## sanders4617

@ttrain I got that idea in my head last week... maybe I can adjust the reel-to-bedknife by how I tighten the bolts. I broke 1 of the bolts because I was trying to keep the contact just right.

For some reason on mine... the right side of the mower holds it's place really well. I can set the reel and tighten it down and everything stays really close.

On the left side, if I adjust the reel with slight contact.. and then tighten the bolts, the reel moves ever so slightly away from the bed knife, causing me to not have contact.

So what I have to do on the left side is set it a little past slight contact (I use a hammer and punch as well) and then tighten it up. It didn't matter which order I went in with the bolts, I got the same result.

So I think it is important to learn your machine and what it takes to achieve the proper setup. I'm not a fan of the adjustment process, but it is what it is.

I'm sure the more we all play with it, the better we will get and understand how to get OUR machine setup properly.


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## ttrain

@sanders4617 thanks so much for the info. I will just dive right in and start playing with it and I'll try to be careful with the bolts. I totally agree this process is a pain but I am thinking if I can master it then I will still love the machine. I took it to a local well known shop to have them adjust the reel clutch and they kept it for 3 weeks only to tell me that my clutch was shot (and charged me for this?!!!). While that may be true, I honestly don't even think they adjusted it at ALL! I plan to buy the 2 thin wrenches and try that soon as well.


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## sanders4617

@ttrain What are you guys looking at as far as the clutch goes? I've never really given it any thought. I crank the machine, turn the reel on, and push in the lever to propel. But I hear people talking about the clutch a lot.. I've got no clue on that matter.


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## SGrabs33

sanders4617 said:


> @ttrain What are you guys looking at as far as the clutch goes? I've never really given it any thought. I crank the machine, turn the reel on, and push in the lever to propel. But I hear people talking about the clutch a lot.. I've got no clue on that matter.


You only need to mess with the clutch if the REEL seems to be getting stuck/or keeps running when disengaged. Or same for the self propel.


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## ttrain

@sanders4617 so they have 2 clutches, the reel clutch on the right (perspective if you are using/driving it) and drive clutch on the left. You will know they need to be adjusted once they are hard to engage/get stuck, it is my understanding this is pretty common to have to adjust them (then again my machine is probably 18 years old or more). 
@SGrabs33 so my drive clutch is perfectly fine but my reel clutch takes A LOT of pressure to engage. I can see a noticable bigger gap on the reel clutch side. I am doing more research but don't you have to adjust these together or can you just adjust the reel clutch without touching the drive clutch??


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## SGrabs33

@ttrain no, you don't have to do both at the same time. Only adjust the REEL side if needed.


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## ttrain

@SGrabs33 excellent, now once I can acquire the 2 thin wrenches I will give it a shot. I have a very hard time paying that much for those little tools hahaha!


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## SGrabs33

ttrain said:


> SGrabs33 excellent, now once I can acquire the 2 thin wrenches I will give it a shot. I have a very hard time paying that much for those little tools hahaha!


Honestly if you have access to a grinder you should find two adjustable wrenches to grind down. I found that the wenches they make don't fit well and slip off easily. 
If you do get the TruCut brand ones you really only need one for the inside nut and you can use one of your own for the outside nut since it can hang out a little.


----------



## ttrain

@SGrabs33 I don't have a grinder but that's a great tip ill just get one thin wrench, thanks again!


----------



## drewwitt

ttrain said:


> @drewwitt thanks for the reply! I think I'm going to try it this weekend. So this may be a very dumb question but is the hammer/punch/spanner wrench for "large movements" to adjust the reel? I think I'm confused as to why you can't just adjust the bolts to move the reel? Sorry this machine is very new to me still...


@ttrain I lay the mower on its back and loosen the three bolts on each side that hold the "retainer rings". I keep the bolts in the nuts, but they're looser than finger tight. Then I use the punch to move the reel closer to the bed knife. My mower needs the reel to slightly contact the knife. It feels counter intuitive and that the reel is too "tight", but the reel blades touch the knife and cut paper. Then I tighten the bolts and double check again.


----------



## ttrain

@drewwitt thanks again, I'm going to give this a shot tonight or tomorrow :thumbup:


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## cnet24

For those that remove the side chain when backlapping- how do you do this?


----------



## ttrain

@cnet24 look for the connecting link and pop it off with a flathead screwdriver


----------



## cnet24

@ttrain thanks!


----------



## SGrabs33

cnet24 said:


> For those that remove the side chain when backlapping- how do you do this?


One screw and one bolt hold on the chain, take those off. Then on the chain find the connector link that looks like the below put together. Pop off the red with a flat head screw driver. Then slip out/off the green then yellow and the chain should fall off.


----------



## cnet24

@SGrabs33 perfect thank you!


----------



## ttrain

Ok guys I have the reel cutting paper after adjusting it but I think it's too tight to the bedknife. I have the chain off. To spin the reel it takes a good bit of effort with entire hand, I definitely cant spin it with a finger or anything. I've found when I loosen it up then I cant cut paper anymore. Any thoughts? @SGrabs33


----------



## SGrabs33

@ttrain take a close up pic of the REEL. Is the relief grind all gone?


----------



## ttrain

@SGrabs33 Im not sure here are some pics, all that paper is from me doing test cuts. If I need to take other pics I'm happy to do so


----------



## g-man

I think I see some relief in that reel. ************ might help.


----------



## ttrain

@g-man backlapping would help with the tightness? It's cutting across as is but you think it would kind of grind down the reel a hair to reduce the friction??


----------



## g-man

It coukd try to even it out.


----------



## SGrabs33

I agree backlapping could help. There isn't too much relief angle left it doesn't look like. With a reduced relief angle more of the reel contacts the bedknife and is causing the added tightness when trying to rotate the reel. Give backlapping a try. If that does not help I'd take it to get sharpened with a new relief angle. If you don't want to do that this year just try and get the reel/bedknife tight enough that you can still spin it with little resistance. It will still most likely give you a descent cut. Too much contact between the reel/bedknife will cause added strain on the engine and wear down the clutches faster.


----------



## ttrain

@SGrabs33 thanks for the info, I'm going to keep trying! Maybe I'll find that sweet spot one of these days. Ill save for the relief grind. Appreciate everyone's help


----------



## Spammage

@ttrain what is the condition of the bedknife? Ghe reel does have some relief and looks like it has a decent edge. Backlapping will definitely help. I usually do tighten the gap a little too tight and backlap to mate everything and "loosen" the contact.


----------



## ttrain

@Spammage the bedknife looks pretty good to me. Sorry for the image quality my phone is not the best.


----------



## smurg

cnet24 said:


> For those that remove the side chain when backlapping- how do you do this?


I mis-read your post, but will leave my original post in case someone else is wondering about the un-official method of backlapping.

--------------------------------

I believe you have to add another sprocket and re-orientate the chain:

http://p11.hostingprod.com/@trucutreelmowers.com/TRU-CUT_BL_Kit_Instructions_06_2013.pdf

However, I just took the cover off, stuck my 3/4" socket on and went at it (in the "forward" position for the drill). Worked fine. This process was posted earlier in the thread and is a ton easier; I'm not sure why they don't post this method instead.


----------



## smurg

Anyone else have an issue with gas leaking from under the fuel tank? I put a shop rag underneath fuel tank and it will collect small amounts overnight (and the garage tends to smell of gas). Looks to be between the fuel link and the tank. Took it apart and put it back together, but the hose clamp was already so tight, it was tough to even get it back together.

Should the tank be flowing and keep the fuel line to the carburetor full at all time? Still the hose clamp is not positioned the best or tight enough leading to the leak, but should the fuel link but flooded?


----------



## NClawnnut78

I can speak from trying to adjust the reel to bedknife on my H20 on Sunday its near impossible to cut paper all the way across the reel.
1) the chain is in the way but you can get around it. makes it harder to adjust but the tru-cut tool wrench helps a lot.
2 The order of bolt sequence helped but still did not allow to cut paper all the way across. 
3) anyone in NC who can assist help!!!!!!lol
4) I think tru-cut never intended the reel to actually cut paper all the way across.
5) I did a test cut and it looked ok, this weeks full mow will tell.
6) the engineer should be shot


----------



## SGrabs33

​


NClawnnut78 said:


> I can speak from trying to adjust the reel to bedknife on my H20 on Sunday its near impossible to cut paper all the way across the reel.
> 1) the chain is in the way but you can get around it. makes it harder to adjust but the tru-cut tool wrench helps a lot.
> 2 The order of bolt sequence helped but still did not allow to cut paper all the way across.
> 3) anyone in NC who can assist help!!!!!!lol
> 4) I think tru-cut never intended the reel to actually cut paper all the way across.
> 5) I did a test cut and it looked ok, this weeks full mow will tell.
> 6) the engineer should be shot


Bring it on by and I'm sure we can figure it out.


----------



## cnet24

NClawnnut78 said:


> I can speak from trying to adjust the reel to bedknife on my H20 on Sunday its near impossible to cut paper all the way across the reel.
> 1) the chain is in the way but you can get around it. makes it harder to adjust but the tru-cut tool wrench helps a lot.
> 2 The order of bolt sequence helped but still did not allow to cut paper all the way across.
> 3) anyone in NC who can assist help!!!!!!lol
> 4) I think tru-cut never intended the reel to actually cut paper all the way across.
> 5) I did a test cut and it looked ok, this weeks full mow will tell.
> 6) the engineer should be shot


I thought the same but when I went to backlap my mower this weekend I was still cutting paper all the way across. My mower is fully serviced every year with a spin and relief grind. I couldn't cut paper at all last year but I've mowed many times this season and it's still cutting well. A little bit of lubricant will help.


----------



## NClawnnut78

So bad news, the shop that was a golf course dealer did sharpen the reel however they only do a spin grind on the blade. They may have done a releaf grind per request but they said i could backlap with just a spin... found this a good video... 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Hd4ilzitrM


----------



## SGrabs33

NClawnnut78 said:


> So bad news, the shop that was a golf course dealer did sharpen the reel however they only do a spin grind on the blade. They may have done a releaf grind per request but they said i could backlap with just a spin... found this a good video...


Did you take it to Revels? Hope not as they probably took all of the relief off. You could have easily maintained a new relief reel with just backlapping for atleast a few years. As they said, you can backlap with just a spin grind but it's not as easy to do IMO.

I almost feel like those guys are doing a disservice to homeowners who's reels they grind. Especially when they grind a relief angle off an almost new reel. Most of the reels they grind go there multiple times a year I have to imagine. Most homeowners just can't afford the time or $ for that.


----------



## NClawnnut78

Do you grind the reel yourself? Revels is the only one I know in the area that sharpens reel mowers for homeowners in a three county radius. I don't know any golf course guys in the wake county area that do it but they might.


----------



## SGrabs33

NClawnnut78 said:


> Do you grind the reel yourself? Revels is the only one I know in the area that sharpens reel mowers for homeowners in a three county radius. I don't know any golf course guys in the wake county area that do it but they might.


No grinding for me. I just backlap, grease, adjust clutch, etc. Yep, chances are there are a few golf course guys that would do it in the offseason. I'll be calling around myself later in the year since I have a few REELs who's relied has run out.


----------



## bp2878

Putting this reel back in the same way It came apart and something doesnt seem right. I have a little bit of lateral movement on the reel, enough to where the reel contacts the bottom bolt on the non sprocket side. The original bolt was sheered off here so I guess it has been doing it for awhile. I put new bolts in it. The schematic calls for a washer between the flange on the reel and the bearing but it wasnt there when I took it apart. It also says the washer should have a 1/2" ID but the shaft is around 5/8" diameter. Is there suppose to be a washer here? Ive never pressed a bearing up against a washer before, seems odd. Am I reading the schematics correct? Should I have a littler lateral movement, doesnt seem like I should, this is my first reel so im new to the game and mechanics of it.




I pulled the bearing back off, it says there should be a washer between it and the reel? part # 38
@spammage


----------



## jphudy

Question about greasing. I picked up a used C-27 and used it for the tail end of last season. I just had it sharpened this year and it's working pretty well, but I think I'll need to adjust the clutch soon. In any case, I can also see that it hasn't been greased in a looong time. All the grease points and the springs are filled with a sludge of grass clippings, oil, dirt, and old grease. There's also no chain guards on it, so you can imagine the mess. In any case, would it be a bad idea to get out some Dawn and a bristle brush to clean everything out with water before re-greasing? Thanks!


----------



## SGrabs33

@jphudy I would just hit it with a nice stream of water and not use a brush and soap. I'm not positive if the soap idea is bad idea or not but I prob just wouldn't do it. Give it a nice re-greasing and then lube it up again nicely. Just wipe off any excess grease as the dirt tends to stick to it.


----------



## UFG8RMIKE

jphudy said:


> Question about greasing. I picked up a used C-27 and used it for the tail end of last season. I just had it sharpened this year and it's working pretty well, but I think I'll need to adjust the clutch soon. In any case, I can also see that it hasn't been greased in a looong time. All the grease points and the springs are filled with a sludge of grass clippings, oil, dirt, and old grease. There's also no chain guards on it, so you can imagine the mess. In any case, would it be a bad idea to get out some Dawn and a bristle brush to clean everything out with water before re-greasing? Thanks!


I used an electric power washer and old shop rags and wd-40 to clean up all the caked grass, dirt, and gresse, before drying and regressing everything. (Pic on p27)

.


----------



## bp2878

bp2878 said:


> Putting this reel back in the same way It came apart and something doesnt seem right. I have a little bit of lateral movement on the reel, enough to where the reel contacts the bottom bolt on the non sprocket side. The original bolt was sheered off here so I guess it has been doing it for awhile. I put new bolts in it. The schematic calls for a washer between the flange on the reel and the bearing but it wasnt there when I took it apart. It also says the washer should have a 1/2" ID but the shaft is around 5/8" diameter. Is there suppose to be a washer here? Ive never pressed a bearing up against a washer before, seems odd. Am I reading the schematics correct? Should I have a littler lateral movement, doesnt seem like I should, this is my first reel so im new to the game and mechanics of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I pulled the bearing back off, it says there should be a washer between it and the reel? part # 38
> @spammage


Reinstalled with 5/8 SS washer and it takes up the play and spins great.


----------



## UFG8RMIKE

What size socket to backlap at tuecut 27? Took chain guard off and had 3/4 socket ready and it's nowhere close. 15/16 fits but is not exact, almost as if it's metric which I don't have near that large of a size.

.


----------



## SGrabs33

UFG8RMIKE said:


> What size socket to backlap at tuecut 27? Took chain guard off and had 3/4 socket ready and it's nowhere close. 15/16 fits but is not exact, almost as if it's metric which I don't have near that large of a size.
> 
> .


I believe it is the 15/16 that I use.


----------



## cnet24

@UFG8RMIKE +1 on 15/16 I use that with no issue.


----------



## UFG8RMIKE

Messing with this right now....how much contact after tightening everything, prior to back lap. I'm either no contact, or tight. Can't find a middle ground. (enough that I can rotate it, but not with one finger. ) Thinking after ************ I'll be just right.

.


----------



## SGrabs33

UFG8RMIKE said:


> Messing with this right now....how much contact after tightening everything, prior to back lap. I'm either no contact, or tight. Can't find a middle ground. (enough that I can rotate it, but not with one finger. ) Thinking after backlapping I'll be just right.
> 
> .


A little more than one finger tight would be fine. But you don't want too much as you will wear the reel and bedknife down more than they need to be.


----------



## UFG8RMIKE

I'm all set, it wasn't too bad. Tightened everything up while the reel was a little tight on the bedknife.

There was a little more resistance on the right side so I followed the guide posted earlier and loosened the top screw on the right side and tighten the bottom one a bit and it was good to go, good contact, two finger spin.

Then I backlapped and it cuts like butter now except for the outer most 1" section on right and left side. Not sure this is something I can fix because the rest of the reel is perfect. If it were one side or the other then I could understand. But as is, I haven't a clue.

.


----------



## TexasLawns

What's the best way to get grease into the right side (as your looking at the mower head on) zerk on the reel? Currently have straight coupler and I cant get it on. Probably need to purchase a 90 degree adaptor.


----------



## jimbeckel

TexasLawns said:


> What's the best way to get grease into the right side (as your looking at the mower head on) zerk on the reel? Currently have straight coupler and I cant get it on. Probably need to purchase a 90 degree adaptor.


That zerk is a pain, amazon sells a coupler that slides over that zerk and it works great.


----------



## SGrabs33

TexasLawns said:


> What's the best way to get grease into the right side (as your looking at the mower head on) zerk on the reel? Currently have straight coupler and I cant get it on. Probably need to purchase a 90 degree adaptor.


That bearing retainer has two zerks that grease the same bearing. If you can't get to the visible one on the top lay your mower back on the handlebars and find the one one the underside.


----------



## TexasLawns

SGrabs33 said:


> TexasLawns said:
> 
> 
> 
> What's the best way to get grease into the right side (as your looking at the mower head on) zerk on the reel? Currently have straight coupler and I cant get it on. Probably need to purchase a 90 degree adaptor.
> 
> 
> 
> That bearing retainer has two zerks that grease the same bearing. If you can't get to the visible one on the top lay your mower back on the handlebars and find the one one the underside.
Click to expand...

"Here's your sign" is appropriate here. Its obvious I'm a rookie reel mower. Thank you.


----------



## TNTurf

TexasLawns said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TexasLawns said:
> 
> 
> 
> What's the best way to get grease into the right side (as your looking at the mower head on) zerk on the reel? Currently have straight coupler and I cant get it on. Probably need to purchase a 90 degree adaptor.
> 
> 
> 
> That bearing retainer has two zerks that grease the same bearing. If you can't get to the visible one on the top lay your mower back on the handlebars and find the one one the underside.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> "Here's your sign" is appropriate here. Its obvious I'm a rookie reel mower. Thank you.
Click to expand...

Don't feel too bad, I use a 90 degree coupler and have for several years, because I didn't know there was another fitting. Hmm


----------



## TexasLawns

gsmornot said:


> TexasLawns said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> That bearing retainer has two zerks that grease the same bearing. If you can't get to the visible one on the top lay your mower back on the handlebars and find the one one the underside.
> 
> 
> 
> "Here's your sign" is appropriate here. Its obvious I'm a rookie reel mower. Thank you.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Don't feel too bad, I use a 90 degree coupler and have for several years, because I didn't know there was another fitting. Hmm
Click to expand...

What's the best grease to use. General purpose or the high temp?


----------



## UFG8RMIKE

Don't think it matters, it's a mower. I used pensoil marine multipurpose , cause that's what I have in the gun for the boatlift and trailer.

.


----------



## drewwitt

This or something similar will work:

14.5 oz. Tube X-Tra Heavy Duty Grease
https://www.homedepot.com/p/202521548

I used this WD40 branded product last time because it was cheaper than the Lucas. It seems to be working fine. I'm not sure how hot these moving parts on the mower get. Do they get towards 500 degrees? I'm not sure...Maybe someone else knows.

14 oz. Heavy-Duty Extreme Pressure Grease
https://www.homedepot.com/p/300639536


----------



## Spammage

Personally I've found that the John Deere lithium grease is less prone to get thrown from the mower. I hate greasing the TC only to find small dead spots in the yard from thrown grease.


----------



## Bbq freakshow

Anybody else have issues with constantly having to adjust reel to bed knife? I can get it setup perfect cutting paper all the way across bed knife but after 1 mow there is a slight gap and just bends the paper over. Checked bearings for movement and they seem good.


----------



## Spammage

Bbq freakshow said:


> Anybody else have issues with constantly having to adjust reel to bed knife? I can get it setup perfect cutting paper all the way across bed knife but after 1 mow there is a slight gap and just bends the paper over. Checked bearings for movement and they seem good.


Could be the bearing retainers need to be replaced.


----------



## Bbq freakshow

Spammage said:


> Bbq freakshow said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody else have issues with constantly having to adjust reel to bed knife? I can get it setup perfect cutting paper all the way across bed knife but after 1 mow there is a slight gap and just bends the paper over. Checked bearings for movement and they seem good.
> 
> 
> 
> Could be the bearing retainers need to be replaced.
Click to expand...

Never even thought of that. Is there a way to test to verify that? I feel like the reel would have movement in it if that was the case but I really don't know!


----------



## Spammage

I don't know, but mine used to be the same way. When I replaced my reel, I also replaced the bearings and retainers. The retainers were bent and several of the nubs (don't know a better way to describe them) were worn completely off. Since replacing everything, I don't tighten the bolts anywhere near as tight and I haven't had that issue anymore.


----------



## Clawn928

Hello I'm new to this forum and to the tru cut mower I purchased this week. I found it used for $200 and what I am looking for is advice on what I need to do to get it back to great shape. It appears to of been used quite a lot but starts first pull still. I am not knowledgeable enough to take it to a shop and know what I'm talking about or if they know what they're talking about, hints my request for advice. I scoured the thread and discovered I can change the oil/air filter and grease the zerk fittings. The chains all appear to be very loose although not sure. I included a picture of the blade and knifebed I have very little knowledge when it comes to this and I don't want a shop to pull one over on me as I'm on a budget with this project. When I checked the oil level via the white cap near the front of the mower oil poured out so I'm guessing the original owner leaned the mower back on the handles to fill the oil (could this of done engine dmg) I plan to correct this before it's ran again. I included some pics (trying to show the slack in the chain, if you can't tell I could remove the chain from each sprocket without removing master link) if you guys could let me know what I could get away with and what needs replaced/fixed. I appreciate it thank you


----------



## bp2878

@Clawn928 You can replace all those chains for less than $35. Buy 10' of #40 chain at tractor supply, a pack of master links, and a pack of offset links. You will need a grinder and an awl to separate the chain, or you can buy a chain breaker tool. I just did mine.  Also buy a backlaping kit for that reel. Comes with 80 and 120 grit and a brush, the link can be found in this thread somewhere. I just bought one in rough shape like your and put new oil, grease, chains, bearings, bedknife, backlap and paint on it and have it running and cutting good. Will be cutting great next season when I get new reel and tires.


----------



## SGrabs33

bp2878 said:


> Clawn928 You can replace all those chains for less than $35. Buy 10' of #40 chain at tractor supply, a pack of master links, and a pack of offset links. You will need a grinder and an awl to separate the chain, or you can buy a chain breaker tool. I just did mine. Also buy a backlaping kit for that reel. Comes with 80 and 120 grit and a brush, the link can be found in this thread somewhere. I just bought one in rough shape like your and put new oil, grease, chains, bearings, bedknife, backlap and paint on it and have it running and cutting good. Will be cutting great next season when I get new reel and tires.


Just adding onto this.

Make sure you grease all of the zeros sooner rather than later. When replacing all the chains just make sure to count all
Of the links in the old chain and match them to the new chain. It's most likely that they are just stretched currently and the same # of links will be right for the new chains.

Also, I'm guessing the oil was overfilled because it has a Honda engine? People do this sometimes because there is a low oil sensor in the engines that often gets triggered when these machines are on slopes.


----------



## Clawn928

So I would like to have the ************ done at a shop atleast for the first time. Anyone know the average cost for having this done? Also the back tires are completely smooth is this a big deal? Do I need to buy new or will it be fine? (My lawn is flat)


----------



## ttrain

@Clawn928 I just got a relief grind done for $90. In my area (GA) I'd say average is about 90-$150. The tires are expensive and a good bit of effort to replace. I think a guy did a how-to on that in here already. I don't really see an issue with bald tires, maybe less traction but hopefully you aren't mowing a mountain.


----------



## SGrabs33

ttrain said:


> Clawn928 I just got a relief grind done for $90. In my area (GA) I'd say average is about 90-$150. The tires are expensive and a good bit of effort to replace. I think a guy did a how-to on that in here already. I don't really see an issue with bald tires, maybe less traction but hopefully you aren't mowing a mountain.


Man I wish there was someone close to me that would do a relief for 90 bucks.

If you lawn is flat @Clawn928 I wouldnt worry about the bald tires.


----------



## Clawn928

So by the picture above does it look like it needs a relief grind or just back lapping?


----------



## Bbq freakshow

Spammage said:


> I don't know, but mine used to be the same way. When I replaced my reel, I also replaced the bearings and retainers. The retainers were bent and several of the nubs (don't know a better way to describe them) were worn completely off. Since replacing everything, I don't tighten the bolts anywhere near as tight and I haven't had that issue anymore.


Nice what did that run you? Was already thinking of just doing that anyway.


----------



## Rhelms3+

I tried backlapping my 20" trucut i believe one of the old ones with the oil bath filter. It set for a while without being used. The backlapping did no good, does the sharpness of the bedknife make a difference? thanks


----------



## Spammage

Bbq freakshow said:


> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know, but mine used to be the same way. When I replaced my reel, I also replaced the bearings and retainers. The retainers were bent and several of the nubs (don't know a better way to describe them) were worn completely off. Since replacing everything, I don't tighten the bolts anywhere near as tight and I haven't had that issue anymore.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice what did that run you? Was already thinking of just doing that anyway.
Click to expand...

To much... but I don't remember exactly. I think it was around $400-450 for the 27" 10-blade reel, bearings, retainers and the sprocket, key and nut. I also replaced the grass shield as mine was rusting through and replaced the bedknife. Wouldn't you know that the clutch failed less than a month later. I wasn't a happy camper, but it has been working great since.


----------



## Bbq freakshow

Damn brotha that's a pisser offer! Lol Shit I didn't pay but like $300 for this h 20. Older mower but mostly good shape. Just gotta sort this lil issue out!


----------



## dwills02

I need some help fellas. I'm missing a zerk here and I've tried 1/4, 1/8, 8mm, and 10mm but none of them work. Any suggestions? Am I missing something or should one of those sizes work?


----------



## SGrabs33

dwills02 said:


> I need some help fellas. I'm missing a zerk here and I've tried 1/4, 1/8, 8mm, and 10mm but none of them work. Any suggestions? Am I missing something or should one of those sizes work?


Does it seem like there are female grooves left to screw the zerk into? With some of the older TruCuts I work with the zerk just falls out when I put my grease gun on it because there are basically no threads left.


----------



## dwills02

No threads at all from what I could tell. I ran a q tip in there and it was smooth as a baby's rear end


----------



## SGrabs33

dwills02 said:


> No threads at all from what I could tell. I ran a q tip in there and it was smooth as a baby's rear end


Haha. I guess the next best option is to look for the replacement part that holds the zerk. I may have an extra on in my shop. I can look if your interested. What size TruCut is it?


----------



## dwills02

It's a 27" and that would be great. I've been around reel mowers most of my life but this is the first time I've ever really gotten my hands dirty with one so I'm learning something new everyday about the one I just got. Any help is greatly appreciated!


----------



## Spammage

SGrabs33 said:


> dwills02 said:
> 
> 
> 
> No threads at all from what I could tell. I ran a q tip in there and it was smooth as a baby's rear end
> 
> 
> 
> Haha. I guess the next best option is to look for the replacement part that holds the zerk. I may have an extra on in my shop. I can look if your interested. What size TruCut is it?
Click to expand...

Either that or try a tap and die set if you have one.


----------



## BakerGreenLawnMaker

Can I mow the lawn with the reel mower while it's wet from the rain? Not sure if the wet grass will dull the blades.


----------



## TNTurf

dwills02 said:


> I need some help fellas. I'm missing a zerk here and I've tried 1/4, 1/8, 8mm, and 10mm but none of them work. Any suggestions? Am I missing something or should one of those sizes work?


None of the zerks on a Tru-Cut are threaded, they are all press fit. That one should be a 5/16 and you want it to have a 45 degree to reach it for filling.


----------



## TexasLawns

BakerGreenLawnMaker said:


> Can I mow the lawn with the reel mower while it's wet from the rain? Not sure if the wet grass will dull the blades.


Saw a guy doing it on a YouTube video and he claimed it was fine. I don't see how it could hurt. Would recommend running something over the grass to knock the dew off. At least that's what I see the golf courses doing. Also hose down the reel and let dry after cutting.


----------



## TexasLawns

Clawn928 said:


> So by the picture above does it look like it needs a relief grind or just back lapping?


I'm sure a relief grind wouldn't hurt. Try ************ first. Amazon sells a 80 & 120 grit package with an application brush. I used the 80 first and then the 120. It was as sharp as some of my cheap pocket knives after I did it.

https://www.amazon.com/Homeowners-Reel-Sharpening-Starter-Kit/dp/B078HY94GD/ref=sr_1_5?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7PDTgaeU4gIVmrjACh2UPAaGEAAYASAAEgL8PvD_BwE&hvadid=176970053422&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9027329&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=6763272802620714350&hvtargid=aud-676677759524%3Akwd-16270311849&hydadcr=7137_9462843&keywords=backlapping+compound&qid=1557606137&s=gateway&sr=8-5


----------



## TexasLawns

UFG8RMIKE said:


> I'm all set, it wasn't too bad. Tightened everything up while the reel was a little tight on the bedknife.
> 
> There was a little more resistance on the right side so I followed the guide posted earlier and loosened the top screw on the right side and tighten the bottom one a bit and it was good to go, good contact, two finger spin.
> 
> Then I backlapped and it cuts like butter now except for the outer most 1" section on right and left side. Not sure this is something I can fix because the rest of the reel is perfect. If it were one side or the other then I could understand. But as is, I haven't a clue.
> 
> .


You may try loosening the top bolt of the bedknife assembled about a half turn on each side. I had the same issue and read on here that loosening those bolts will adjust the reel to bedknife in the middle. Once you get some relief you may have to lower the reel down a bit more. Hope this helps.


----------



## Clawn928

I'm still a bit confused about this, a local shop I called said there's no point in ************ if you're going to do a relief grind. But I was under the impression you sharpen, then backlap to have a near perfect cut?


----------



## ttrain

@Clawn928 if you pay to have a relief grind then it will be like new, sharp and ready to go, no need to backlap again afterwards. After some time (mows) it will dull again and then that's when you would backlap yourself...


----------



## dwills02

gsmornot said:


> dwills02 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need some help fellas. I'm missing a zerk here and I've tried 1/4, 1/8, 8mm, and 10mm but none of them work. Any suggestions? Am I missing something or should one of those sizes work?
> 
> 
> 
> None of the zerks on a Tru-Cut are threaded, they are all press fit. That one should be a 5/16 and you want it to have a 45 degree to reach it for filling.
Click to expand...

@gsmornot thank you!! :yahoo: man I love TLF. Y'all are awesome


----------



## AllenbSC

Is there a way to determine the age of a tru-cut mower by serial/model number?.


----------



## njoy1389

Okay, so I took my tru-cut into the dealer about 2 months, finally got it back today. Asked them to adjust reel clutch and sharpen reel. I had it cutting almost all the way across minus the last 1" on one side before I took it one. But I could not tighten it down any more as there was too much resistance trying to backlap with my drill. They use a machine stronger than my drill so I figured they would be able to get it sharp and set correct.....Well got it back today and they did adjust the reel clutch, but the reel to bed knife was so tight I couldn't spin it with my hand even applying a good amount of force.

I don't really want to take it back to them at this point because when I dropped it off they said 2 week and it took two months. Not to mention after 3 weeks I called every other day to check on it and nobody knew why it wasn't done. Then after 4 weeks I went into the dealer 3x per week to check on it and they assured me it was going to be done soon. Then I get it back today and it wasn't right.

Will replacing the bedknife take care of my issue? On average what do you guys pay for a bedknife? I may go in there and have them order it and just do it myself.. But also may just order it from dolphin outdoor power equipment, what else should I get in order to not pay that processing fee if under $100. Probably get the clutch wrenches, that's the main reason took it into the dealer as I didn't want to order the wrenches.

Also the reel looks good in my opinion, but I may see if I can find a golf course to put a grind on it.


----------



## SGrabs33

njoy1389 said:


> Okay, so I took my tru-cut into the dealer about 2 months, finally got it back today. Asked them to adjust reel clutch and sharpen reel. I had it cutting almost all the way across minus the last 1" on one side before I took it one. But I could not tighten it down any more as there was too much resistance trying to backlap with my drill. They use a machine stronger than my drill so I figured they would be able to get it sharp and set correct.....Well got it back today and they did adjust the reel clutch, but the reel to bed knife was so tight I couldn't spin it with my hand even applying a good amount of force.
> 
> I don't really want to take it back to them at this point because when I dropped it off they said 2 week and it took two months. Not to mention after 3 weeks I called every other day to check on it and nobody knew why it wasn't done. Then after 4 weeks I went into the dealer 3x per week to check on it and they assured me it was going to be done soon. Then I get it back today and it wasn't right.
> 
> Will replacing the bedknife take care of my issue? On average what do you guys pay for a bedknife? I may go in there and have them order it and just do it myself.. But also may just order it from dolphin outdoor power equipment, what else should I get in order to not pay that processing fee if under $100. Probably get the clutch wrenches, that's the main reason took it into the dealer as I didn't want to order the wrenches.
> 
> Also the reel looks good in my opinion, but I may see if I can find a golf course to put a grind on it.


That stinks. Post a pic of the reel. Does it have a relief angle left? With the reel that tight it's going to wear the heck out of your clutch and put more strain on the engine.


----------



## UFG8RMIKE

I would contact them and dispute the charge w CC. That's BS, they should know what they are doing. You should be able to adjust it by by adjusting only the 3 and 5 o'clock bolts.

I set mine for heavy contact after tightening all screws, and prior to backlapping, then adjusted using the method described earlier to one finger spin. Then backlapped and its perfect. You may need to backlap again to get everything bedded right. Maybe not.


----------



## njoy1389

@SGrabs33 




Best images I could snag of reel


----------



## SGrabs33

Yeah, hard to say if they actually sharpened the REEL or not. There is no relief grind so they def did not do that. This will make it harder to backlap down the road. I would def ask for a refund of some sort since it is currently not right and also it took 2 months :shock:


----------



## njoy1389

Edges of bedknife


----------



## NClawnnut78

what grease do you use with the chains....also confirmed there is a second zerk from an earlier posting on the bottom of the right side of the reel. I don't know if they grease the same thing but there are two.


----------



## smurg

NClawnnut78 said:


> what grease do you use with the chains....also confirmed there is a second zerk from an earlier posting on the bottom of the right side of the reel. I don't know if they grease the same thing but there are two.


I've sprayed Fluid Film on my chains so far. Works well and easy to apply.


----------



## SGrabs33

NClawnnut78 said:


> what grease do you use with the chains....also confirmed there is a second zerk from an earlier posting on the bottom of the right side of the reel. I don't know if they grease the same thing but there are two.


Yes they grease the same bearing.

Fluid film is good for the chains.


----------



## TNTurf

I'm not sure if its the same thing but I use motorcycle chain lube on my chains. It's a bit drier and not as bad about attracting grass.


----------



## drewwitt

NClawnnut78 said:


> what grease do you use with the chains....also confirmed there is a second zerk from an earlier posting on the bottom of the right side of the reel. I don't know if they grease the same thing but there are two.


The second zerk is for convenience since the reel might not be located just right to hit the "other one". They grease the same bearing.


----------



## LittleTino

Just replaced my bedknife. Old one lost almost 3/8" of it's edge compared to new one. It had a rather concaved profile across the width. Now with new one on, I can only get good contact in the middle. Reel is barrelled around 2mm. Will a grind square it back up?


----------



## smurg

LittleTino said:


> Just replaced my bedknife. Old one lost almost 3/8" of it's edge compared to new one. It had a rather concaved profile across the width. Now with new one on, I can only get good contact in the middle. Reel is barrelled around 2mm. Will a grind square it back up?


As long as you have enough life left on the reel, a grind will remove the barrel and bring the reel back in square.


----------



## NClawnnut78

Wow for those DIY people out there never listen to the dealers or the shop.... so off a post on this forum(thank you) I decided as I have been mowing pretty frequent with an H20 to do some maintenance. Glad I did. so I am in agreement that every month maybe sooner to change the oil, grease the zerks, and oil the chains. I took my main chain cover off and the drive shaft chain on the motor was bone dry only after a month. Like the shop did not even put oil on it. I even found a possible issue were one chain link was not flexible and stuck. The roller inside the link was ok but that being said issues may arise later, hopefully not. I advise every new tru-cut owner to follow that post and clean and oil the chains once a month. Also go over every bolt as they shake loose from the vibrations before mowing. Be careful of the roller nuts as they cannot be fully tightened due to the HOC change lever.


----------



## Clawn928

Took my 20" 7 blade trut cut into a local shop to get the blade/bed knife sharpened and adjusted. They said it's $47 seemed cheap but they are reputable they've been in business over 30+ years selling/ repairing mowers. So I took it in, they said 2 weeks until it's ready no big deal we'll 12 days later I get a voicemail that the reel bearing need replaced and it'll be about $100 total for sharp and installation of new bearings. My question is I have little knowledge of these mowers so 1 I don't want to be taken advantage of and bearings not need replaced. 2 is it something that is easy to do or 3 is it worth $100. I paid $200 for the mower that wasn't in great shape but I'm lookin to spend as little as possible to have a permanent long term mower. Thank you for any help


----------



## SGrabs33

Clawn928 said:


> Took my 20" 7 blade trut cut into a local shop to get the blade/bed knife sharpened and adjusted. They said it's $47 seemed cheap but they are reputable they've been in business over 30+ years selling/ repairing mowers. So I took it in, they said 2 weeks until it's ready no big deal we'll 12 days later I get a voicemail that the reel bearing need replaced and it'll be about $100 total for sharp and installation of new bearings. My question is I have little knowledge of these mowers so 1 I don't want to be taken advantage of and bearings not need replaced. 2 is it something that is easy to do or 3 is it worth $100. I paid $200 for the mower that wasn't in great shape but I'm lookin to spend as little as possible to have a permanent long term mower. Thank you for any help


$47 sounds cheap for any type of service these days. An extra $53 for new bearings doesn't sound too bad. It's prob $15 in parts and the rest for labor.


----------



## cnet24

I think I know the answer to this but should I be backlapping as part of normal maintenance, even if my reel is cutting paper all the way across?

I had my mower sharpened and adjusted in February this year, and have mowed on average 3x a week this season. Tonight I went to backlap and I'm still cutting paper across the bed knife (even after hitting a tree root during my last mow. I'm wondering if I'm good, or should I go ahead and backlap since the reel hasn't been touched since February?


----------



## smurg

cnet24 said:


> I think I know the answer to this but should I be backlapping as part of normal maintenance, even if my reel is cutting paper all the way across?
> 
> I had my mower sharpened and adjusted in February this year, and have mowed on average 3x a week this season. Tonight I went to backlap and I'm still cutting paper across the bed knife (even after hitting a tree root during my last mow. I'm wondering if I'm good, or should I go ahead and backlap since the reel hasn't been touched since February?


If I'm cutting paper clean then I'm not backlapping. No point to take off more reel.


----------



## Wetwater

Hello, first time posting. Looking for some help with purchasing a Tru cut 27" mower. I've attached pictures below. The seller is asking $500 for it. As far as I can tell it looks rusty, the wheels don't look worn out and as far as I can the the bed knife and reels aren't too beat up.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.


----------



## drewwitt

appears to have a good relief angle. honda engine is a plus. Mine was in worse shape (got it for $200). I found a golf course mechanic who did a grind on the real, faced the bed knife, and back-lapped it for me for $65 cash. My reel is rusted on the inside just like the picture, but the blades cut like a champ. Make sure you get a grease gun and hit all those zerks to keep the bearings in good order.


----------



## TNTurf

You can call Tru Cut, give them the serial and they will tell you about how old it is. I can tell by the chain guard its older than mine which is about 14. I would guess its 15+. Should not matter and Dolphin has all the parts you need if you need any. My serial starts with 812 and they told me 14-15.


----------



## SGrabs33

Yep, def the older chain guard. Must have not been used much as those tires look great. There isn't a relief angle left on the blade so it
May need to be professionally sharpened to have a relief out back on so that you can backlap to maintain an edge. It has no roller so you may want to add that down the line($150). Bedknife doesn't have a lip on the end meaning it's not worn down excessively.

The big question would be what condition the clutch is in but that's hard to do without getting under that chain guard. This can be a costly repair if it's worn out.


----------



## Wetwater

@drewwitt @gsmornot @sgrabs33

Thank you guys for your reply. I think I'm goig to skip this offer has the seller made it seem that the unit was much newer. Claimed that it only had 54ish hours. I did happen to come to another mower but it's past my budget. What's are your thoughts? Pictures below.

Looks like it's a much newer and wouldn't have the clutch issues or bed knife issues that a 15 plus year mower would have.

Edit. They are asking $750, model c25


----------



## smurg

Wetwater said:


> @drewwitt @gsmornot @sgrabs33
> 
> Thank you guys for your reply. I think I'm goig to skip this offer has the seller made it seem that the unit was much newer. Claimed that it only had 54ish hours. I did happen to come to another mower but it's past my budget. What's are your thoughts? Pictures below.
> 
> Looks like it's a much newer and wouldn't have the clutch issues or bed knife issues that a 15 plus year mower would have.
> 
> Edit. They are asking $750, model c25


I'd be jumping at that since it looks practically new (double check in person to make sure they just didn't sand and paint it). They retail for $1900 or so. If you could scrounge up the cash, plan on another $150 for a roller.


----------



## ttrain

@Wetwater yepp I agree I'd be picking that one up looks brand new and like @smurg said get the roller


----------



## TNTurf

Wetwater said:


> @drewwitt @gsmornot @sgrabs33
> 
> Thank you guys for your reply. I think I'm goig to skip this offer has the seller made it seem that the unit was much newer. Claimed that it only had 54ish hours. I did happen to come to another mower but it's past my budget. What's are your thoughts? Pictures below.
> 
> Looks like it's a much newer and wouldn't have the clutch issues or bed knife issues that a 15 plus year mower would have.
> 
> Edit. They are asking $750, model c25


That looks fantastic. The thumb tabs aren't even rusted, no dirt in the grips, I would not know what to do. Other than to make it dirty and rusty from use but it looks great. I sold a 20 for the price they are asking for the 25. I would buy it.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

gsmornot said:


> You can call Tru Cut, give them the serial and they will tell you about how old it is. I can tell by the chain guard its older than mine which is about 14. I would guess its 15+. Should not matter and Dolphin has all the parts you need if you need any. My serial starts with 812 and they told me 14-15.


My model starts with an 804xxx as well and Tru Cut said it was 18-19 years old.


----------



## TNTurf

My 3 year old mower started with 834 as another reference. So, in 18 years plus a little they built/sold 30k mowers.


----------



## bp2878

What size mower takes a 10x3 tire? I ordered a set of 4 for my c25 thinking they were all the same, but after looking at my mower, they are 10 x 2.75. Will the 3" work?


----------



## Tigerwr423

I am looking into reel mowers and I just want to make sure my lawn is not to steep before I make the plunge. 




Any advice would be appreciated. TIA


----------



## gpbrown60

Tigerwr423, I think you will be fine if the reel mower has wheels. Your direction will be somewhat limited. I doubt you would be able to utilize a greens mower with a drum drive.


----------



## Tigerwr423

Thank you. I have been looking at the trucut 20" with front roller.


----------



## drewwitt

Tigerwr423 said:


> Thank you. I have been looking at the trucut 20" with front roller.


I have a P20 with a roller and it will work on your slope.


----------



## gpbrown60

Tigerwr423 said:


> Thank you. I have been looking at the trucut 20" with front roller.


 :thumbup:


----------



## jayhawk

Tigerwr423 said:


> I am looking into reel mowers and I just want to make sure my lawn is not to steep before I make the plunge.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any advice would be appreciated. TIA


Any will be fine (cal trimmer, mcLame, Tru)


----------



## Tmank87

What type of grease are you guys using on the zerks. How about chain lube?


----------



## Keepin It Reel

My mower will not crank. I checked the plug, it's getting fuel, and I think it's the on/off switch. Is there a way to bypass this temporarily or test it?


----------



## bp2878

MeanDean said:


> My mower will not crank. I checked the plug, it's getting fuel, and I think it's the on/off switch. Is there a way to bypass this temporarily or test it?


Is the plug firing when you pull the chord?


----------



## Keepin It Reel

bp2878 said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> My mower will not crank. I checked the plug, it's getting fuel, and I think it's the on/off switch. Is there a way to bypass this temporarily or test it?
> 
> 
> 
> Is the plug firing when you pull the chord?
Click to expand...

I don't think so. I removed the plug but left it on the boot and held it against the body and pulled the cord but couldn't get a spark.


----------



## smurg

Tmank87 said:


> What type of grease are you guys using on the zerks. How about chain lube?


Lucas Oil Products 14-oz Hardware Lubricant
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lucas-Oil-Products-14-oz-Hardware-Lubricant/50353740

Fluid Film 1-oz Lanolin Based Petroleum Oil
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Fluid-Film-1-oz-Lanolin-Based-Petroleum-Oil/50335157


----------



## Tmank87

Thanks a bunch


----------



## bp2878

MeanDean said:


> bp2878 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> My mower will not crank. I checked the plug, it's getting fuel, and I think it's the on/off switch. Is there a way to bypass this temporarily or test it?
> 
> 
> 
> Is the plug firing when you pull the chord?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't think so. I removed the plug but left it on the boot and held it against the body and pulled the cord but couldn't get a spark.
Click to expand...

I'd check the switch first, pull it off at check for continuity when in on position. If it's just 2 wire switch, twisting them together will bypass it.


----------



## gpbrown60

Does that model have an oil safety mechanism to prevent starting when the oil is too low?


----------



## Keepin It Reel

gpbrown60 said:


> Does that model have an oil safety mechanism to prevent starting when the oil is too low?


It's 18 years old... Not sure honestly

It was working fine and got low on gas so I filled up and continued to mow. I was mowing on a slight incline when it cut off and hasn't started back since.


----------



## Spammage

@MeanDean sure could be the oil cutoff. Have you checked/changed the oil in it?


----------



## drewwitt

Mine had a similar issue. It would try to stall when going on an incline. I drained the oil and put a fresh bottle in. Haven't had the issue since.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Spammage said:


> @MeanDean sure could be the oil cutoff. Have you checked/changed the oil in it?


It was serviced before I bought it or supposed to be. What type of oil is recommended for these machines?


----------



## drewwitt

I went to Home Depot and got whatever was in the mower isle. I forget what the specs were.


----------



## SGrabs33

MeanDean said:


> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MeanDean sure could be the oil cutoff. Have you checked/changed the oil in it?
> 
> 
> 
> It was serviced before I bought it or supposed to be. What type of oil is recommended for these machines?
Click to expand...

10w30 works


----------



## Spammage

SGrabs33 said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MeanDean sure could be the oil cutoff. Have you checked/changed the oil in it?
> 
> 
> 
> It was serviced before I bought it or supposed to be. What type of oil is recommended for these machines?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 10w30 works
Click to expand...

Yep. I use Rotella T Synthetic in everything I can, but it's because I always have some on hand.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Thanks guys. Is there a way to bypass the oil level sensor or troubleshoot to see if that's the problem?


----------



## gpbrown60

MeanDean said:


> Thanks guys. Is there a way to bypass the oil level sensor or troubleshoot to see if that's the problem?


Sorry, can't help you with that.


----------



## smurg

MeanDean said:


> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MeanDean sure could be the oil cutoff. Have you checked/changed the oil in it?
> 
> 
> 
> It was serviced before I bought it or supposed to be. What type of oil is recommended for these machines?
Click to expand...

10W-30


----------



## Keepin It Reel

So this guy was the culprit. I unplugged it and it fired right up. While it was running I reconnected the wires and it shut off again.


----------



## Putting for Birdie

Question for the Oklahoma guys. Are there any shops in the Tulsa area that service Tru Cuts? I need to have the bearings and retainers replaced and--I think--the clutch adjusted. I found a shop in OKC that sells and services Tru Cuts, but I would prefer not to have to take the time to go there. Especially if this turns out to be a multi-day job. Thanks for any information and assistance you can provide.


----------



## NClawnnut78

Question, tru-cut H20 backlap with chain on or off?

I am going to give it a shot.....anyone in the raleigh area have some backlap compound I can buy? I know Amazon but dont want to wait.. Its raining most of the week so it is a good time to work on the reel mower again.... RAIN RAIN go away lol...actually its helped a lot to bring back some hot spots with not enough soil..


----------



## SGrabs33

NClawnnut78 said:


> Question, tru-cut H20 backlap with chain on or off?
> 
> I am going to give it a shot.....anyone in the raleigh area have some backlap compound I can buy? I know Amazon but dont want to wait.. Its raining most of the week so it is a good time to work on the reel mower again.... RAIN RAIN go away lol...actually its helped a lot to bring back some hot spots with not enough soil..


It's easier to adjust the REEL to bedknife if the chain is off.

Yep, I'm in Raleigh and have some compound. PM me.


----------



## bp2878

MeanDean said:


> So this guy was the culprit. I unplugged it and it fired right up. While it was running I reconnected the wires and it shut off again.


Is that the low oil sensor?


----------



## thelawnpirate

Newbie to reel mowers here. Trying to read up as much as I can on different brands (and this whole thread). Hoping to make my first reel mower purchase this season as my reno is coming along.

Found this used Tru-Cut online posted for $550. What should I be looking out for? Unfortunately (possibly fortunately), seller only has this one picture and doesn't know much about the mower history. He said he "bought it to sell it". 
Also not super close, so want to make the trip worth it to check it out.

Any advice?


----------



## Pamboys09

betterpropertyguy said:


> Newbie to reel mowers here. Trying to read up as much as I can on different brands (and this whole thread). Hoping to make my first reel mower purchase this season as my reno is coming along.
> 
> Found this used Tru-Cut online posted for $550. What should I be looking out for? Unfortunately (possibly fortunately), seller only has this one picture and doesn't know much about the mower history. He said he "bought it to sell it".
> Also not super close, so want to make the trip worth it to check it out.
> 
> Any advice?


First check if its running,
Check the reel and bedknife life
Compute how much your going to spend to bring back to the good condition

For me i state that stuff i need to spend to rebuild it and sometimes it works wonders to negotiate the price lower than asking price.


----------



## bp2878

betterpropertyguy said:


> Newbie to reel mowers here. Trying to read up as much as I can on different brands (and this whole thread). Hoping to make my first reel mower purchase this season as my reno is coming along.
> 
> Found this used Tru-Cut online posted for $550. What should I be looking out for? Unfortunately (possibly fortunately), seller only has this one picture and doesn't know much about the mower history. He said he "bought it to sell it".
> Also not super close, so want to make the trip worth it to check it out.
> 
> Any advice?


I would ask for more pictures if possible, some close up of the reel. Depending on how far away it is, if they wont provide more pictures I would pass on it. New reel is $450, bed knife around 60$.  That's just my opinion though, you may not mind gambling the gas money to pick it up, my truck gets 11mpg so I have to take that into account with everything.


----------



## thelawnpirate

Thanks @Pamboys09 and @bp2878. If everything checks out and the reel/bedknife are in decent shape, would $450 be a fair price for this model? Would probably consider getting it serviced regardless.


----------



## MasterMech

bp2878 said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> So this guy was the culprit. I unplugged it and it fired right up. While it was running I reconnected the wires and it shut off again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that the low oil sensor?
Click to expand...

Sure is.


----------



## ttrain

@betterpropertyguy give this a quick look before you go

https://youtu.be/7vNqBTJ-lBg


----------



## drewwitt

betterpropertyguy said:


> If everything checks out and the reel/bedknife are in decent shape, would $450 be a fair price for this model? Would probably consider getting it serviced regardless.


The reel questions on the unit are 1) will it start on the first pull, 2) will the reel cut paper, 3) are the slip clutches in good shape? If those clutches are toast, you have to replace the whole assembly and its $$$.

That's an okay price if everything checks out. Those grass catchers are around $200 alone from dolphin. The tires look like they have a lot of tread on them which is a plus. They're a pain to change.

As stated by others, for that price it should start on the first pull (its a Honda engine), the reel should be good, and the bedknife decent. Bedknife is cheap and not a deal breaker, but if the reel is not cutting and is nicked, dull, etc, I wouldn't spend more than $300. Getting a new grind is probably $80-$120 depending on the shop, and a brand new 7 blade reel is $281.

Additionally, from the pic, it looks like the caster wheels are still on it and no roller. You'll want to budget $150 for the reelrollers front roller. It makes the mower.

Whats the model number? Looks like a 25" or 27" model? Maybe a C-27? Parts list here. I'm not sure what the differences are between the H and C series. If you can get a C27 for $500 and all the above checks out, that's a good score. Most "good" units in my area usually sell for $750-$1100.


----------



## ReelCentipede

Hello everyone! I joined the forum a week ago and have fully caught the "Reel" Bug. I have found a Trucut H25-H that is three years old. The guy says that he has just been too lazy to cut in the Texas heat and wants to get rid of it. 1000.00 3 yr old with the catcher and Reel Roller that he purchased for the mower. Is this a decent price? There's a big commitment if i want to do this because from Charleston to Houston is a pretty far hike. Thanks ahead of time!


----------



## TulsaFan

Putting for Birdie said:


> Question for the Oklahoma guys. Are there any shops in the Tulsa area that service Tru Cuts? I need to have the bearings and retainers replaced and--I think--the clutch adjusted. I found a shop in OKC that sells and services Tru Cuts, but I would prefer not to have to take the time to go there. Especially if this turns out to be a multi-day job. Thanks for any information and assistance you can provide.


No dealers in Tulsa. There are two in OKC:

Power Pro Equipment 
7405 S. May 
Oklahoma City, OK 73159
405.634.7313

Central Power Equipment
4121 N Macarthur Blvd
Oklahoma City, OK 73122
405.495.3732


----------



## dunk_machine

Hey guys, could use your help. I hit a bolt mowing yesterday and bent a blade on my TruCut C-25 mower. I tried heating the bent area up and bending/peening it back into shape, but not success. So looks like I'm going to need a new reel. I spent today trying to take the reel off and I'm at a stopping point. I think I'm to the point of needing to remove the bearing retainers on the right and left hand sides (Part #'s 32 and 39 below). I haven't been able to find a good way to remove it and decided to stop trying and see if I could get some help here. I've taken the bedknife holder off already and I think once I get these retainers off I should be good to remove the reel. I'm I'm wrong please feel free to get me back on track!

I would appreciate any help! Thanks.


----------



## bp2878

Take off the sprocket nut, and the three bolts out of each of the bearing retainers and it will come right out. Don't lose the little piece of key stock that is under the sprocket.


----------



## dunk_machine

Thank you for the reply. Unfortunately I'm not able to budge the retainers on either side. Does it take a Herculean effort? At the moment I have the retainer ring, sprocket nut and washer, sprocket and square key removed. When I grab the bearing retainer and pull I just can't get it to slide out. Same thing on the other side. I unbolted the retainer ring but the retainer won't move. Is there a certain orientation the retainer needs to be rotated to slide off?


----------



## SGrabs33

@dunk_machine it may just be stuck due to lack of grease or just sitting for a long while. A bearing puller would be able to get off the right side pretty easily I would think. Then the left side shouldn't be as much trouble. It's been a long while since I did this.


----------



## bp2878

If you have all 6 bolts out, should not be anything holding it in there. The reel and all will slide to the sprocketed side, then slide out. May take some wd40 and a little banging on that retainer to get it to move. Clean the retainers really well, or replace them before putting back in, you will need them to move freely to adjust reel to knife contact.


----------



## smurg

Could try to jam a putty knife under it to pry it out.


----------



## drewwitt

I use a flathead and carefully tap it out from the inside hitting towards the sprocket. My unit is very old and the retainers need to be replaced, so I don't feel bad about that method.


----------



## NClawnnut78

LocknLube grease connector is worth every penny. Greased my tru-cut except the one zerk that is the hardest to get to next to the reel on the right side facing the reel mower. I tried a flat 90 degree but it did not work. I am ordering the flat 90 degree from locknlube to see if it works. However well worth the purchase. My H20 only has 5 zerks on it and the lockNlube worked awesome on all 4.


----------



## RayTL

NClawnnut78 said:


> LocknLube grease connector is worth every penny. Greased my tru-cut except the one zerk that is the hardest to get to next to the reel on the right side facing the reel mower. I tried a flat 90 degree but it did not work. I am ordering the flat 90 degree from locknlube to see if it works. However well worth the purchase. My H20 only has 5 zerks on it and the lockNlube worked awesome on all 4.


I just got one of these as well. It's awesome! I have one zerk on my C-27 that I can't seem to get to, but LocknLube has a couple of adaptors options that should work. :thumbup:


----------



## TNTurf

NClawnnut78 said:


> LocknLube grease connector is worth every penny. Greased my tru-cut except the one zerk that is the hardest to get to next to the reel on the right side facing the reel mower. I tried a flat 90 degree but it did not work. I am ordering the flat 90 degree from locknlube to see if it works. However well worth the purchase. My H20 only has 5 zerks on it and the lockNlube worked awesome on all 4.


There is one on the bottom right as well, that bearing has a zerk top and bottom. I have a 90 degree end for my gun but if you dont, tilt the mower back and look underneath the reel.


----------



## drewwitt

gsmornot said:


> There is one on the bottom right as well, that bearing has a zerk top and bottom. I have a 90 degree end for my gun but if you dont, tilt the mower back and look underneath the reel.


+1

I always just tilt it back and turn the reel until that second zerk shows. Way easier.


----------



## NClawnnut78

So the 90degree I bought at a auto parts store did not work on the bottom one. Ordered the locknlube flat 90 degree to see if that works. However now I have another reel to bedknife question. for some reason everything i do I cannot get it to cut across the bedknife the whole way. I tried to even raise it the whole way and see saw the reel back down and can only get it alittle further than the picture. The reel also screaches to a stop when dis-engaged(not good) however after a long run it turns to a stop. Any adjustment advice is well taken. I am not giving up until I get this done myself. I even used the bolt tighten sequence suggested and it holds what I have but i want it closer and I am thinking the only thing left is backlap maybe. The reel has been sharpened but never backlapped. The actual cutting of the business card is over to the right a but more as I did a second adjustment. The reel does not turn easy with one finger.


----------



## NClawnnut78

So the 90degree I bought at a auto parts store did not work on the bottom one. Ordered the locknlube flat 90 degree to see if that works. However now I have another reel to bedknife question. for some reason everything i do I cannot get it to cut across the bedknife the whole way. I tried to even raise it the whole way and see saw the reel back down and can only get it alittle further than the picture. The reel also screaches to a stop when dis-engaged(not good) however after a long run it turns to a stop. Any adjustment advice is well taken. I am not giving up until I get this done myself. I even used the bolt tighten sequence suggested and it holds what I have but i want it closer and I am thinking the only thing left is backlap maybe. The reel has been sharpened but never backlapped. The actual cutting of the business card is over to the right a but more as I did a second adjustment. The reel does not turn easy with one finger.


----------



## Batsonbe

I know I could have greater exposure asking this question in a different sub forum but I was curious if the guys in SC could tell me where they're getting their reels ground at? I'm saving money for a tru cut, if my mind doesn't change a 100 more times, but not knowing of anywhere nearby to assist in the grind process has me concerned. I haven't called the local golf courses at this point just seeing if anybody had some suggestions at this point.

Thanks


----------



## ReelCentipede

Hey there bud. I just bought a used TC H20 and I'll be taking mine to https://www.turf-care.com/

I called yesterday and they said that it would be a standard 99.99 for a fresh Grind. Not sure if you're in the Charleston area or not, but it looks like they have multiple locations in a lot of other cities. Check the site out. Hope this helps you make your decision.


----------



## NClawnnut78

Good news Tru-cut owners all you need to keep all your zerks greased yourself is the locknlube extended connector and the locknlube 90degree flat push on and pull off. It will grease the top zerk on the right hand side when you face the reel that everyone complains about not being able to get to. It even puts docs video to shame. I will post a video later when time allows. Those two make it so easy to do and to upkeep your tru-cut grease points yourself. Only took me a year to figure that out duhhh. No more paying someone to do it. Now I found what may have happened to my reel when greasing the zerk and why I cant level the reel to bedknife, will post pictures later when time allows. Locknlube you are awesome.


----------



## NClawnnut78

ok now I have a problem question for tru-cut service and owners have you seen this after greasing your zerk...
looks like the cover came off of the when I greased the zerk on the top and bottom.

any ideas if this is a problem or just a cover to protect. I don't even think the dealer greased this as old grease did not come out. only my green grease or it was bone dry from usage. Glad I got it in there. Started turning the reel and it seemed to turn a lot better and not as much resistance maybe I avoided a failure or was getting close to huge ware and tare problems.


----------



## ReelCentipede

Man I am a new TC owner so I don't have that background. However, I have 20 years Aviation technician background and when a bearing blows out like that, you will more than likely have to replace said bearing. Might as well if you are going to take it apart and try to Jerry-rig the bearing cover back on. I am going to assume that this is a bearing....


----------



## drewwitt

If those are the bearing balls in the third picture, I think it's shot. I've not seen this happen...


----------



## NClawnnut78

I am all about sharing info.....

OK so Rosa at tru-cut(thank you so much)how long has she worked there? Was nice enough to get me in touch with the technical support department.

Tech support said this with the above bering cover is by design on H20's I cant speak to other models, the lockNlube 90 degree flat will grease at 1000PSI. Grease going through that bering as small as it is the cover was designed to come off in case pressure was to high. Guess standard grease guns are at a lower PSI sorry DOC your tool was inferior to lockNlube. It is just a snap on cover that a screwdriver will snap back in place. Thank god...no damage at all it is all by design per the vendor Tru-Cut.

So while I had techsupport on the phone as a I im a wanna be DIY guy I started asking questions.

1)Zerks are press fitted. if one falls off or breaks off well you may be able to get one in but a part will have to be ordered to avoid further damage

2)Grease your grease zerks every 30 hours or less.
3)Make sure your Chains are not dried out and oil them...take the chain cover off every so often and inspect.
4)before you get a grind backlap 2 or 3 times before they start the sharpen process.
5)After they grind have them backlap 2 or three times.
6) all chains on the H20 are #41 so if you have a motorcycle shop nearby like i do you can run over there to get a chain.
7) reel to bedknife adjustment - will add that later but need to confirm its not already posted but have more details on that process.


----------



## NClawnnut78

I am all about sharing info.....

OK so Rosa at tru-cut(thank you so much)how long has she worked there? Was nice enough to get me in touch with the technical support department.

Tech support said this with the above bering cover is by design on H20's I cant speak to other models, the lockNlube 90 degree flat will grease at 1000PSI. Grease going through that bering as small as it is the cover was designed to come off in case pressure was to high. Guess standard grease guns are at a lower PSI sorry DOC your tool was inferior to lockNlube. It is just a snap on cover that a screwdriver will snap back in place. Thank god...no damage at all it is all by design per the vendor Tru-Cut.

So while I had techsupport on the phone as a I im a wanna be DIY guy I started asking questions.

1)Zerks are press fitted. if one falls off or breaks off well you may be able to get one in but a part will have to be ordered to avoid further damage

2)Grease your grease zerks every 30 hours or less.
3)Make sure your Chains are not dried out and oil them...take the chain cover off every so often and inspect.
4)before you get a grind backlap 2 or 3 times before they start the sharpen process.
5)After they grind have them backlap 2 or three times.
6) all chains on the H20 are #41 so if you have a motorcycle shop nearby like i do you can run over there to get a chain.
7) reel to bedknife adjustment - will add that later but need to confirm its not already posted but have more details on that process.


----------



## sanders4617

I think a set screw on this piece worked itself out. I can move this back and forth no problem and my chain slipped off.

Anyone know what I need to get this locked back down?


----------



## cnet24

@NClawnnut78 go ahead and share with us what they said about reel to bedknife adjustment. That is one of the main issues with the Tru Cut and I'm sure there are others that are eager to hear what they said about it.


----------



## TNTurf

Works out that I always used motorcycle chain lube on the chains. Not too wet. The press fit zerks are easy to swap. I have replaced two so far and find them at tractor supply. They are 5/16 press fit. On the 27" there is one on the chain shaft going to the reel that sticks out of the cover so it broke off once.


----------



## NClawnnut78

Yeah I too use motorcycle chain cleaner and lube on my chains. I don't know about replacing pressfit zerks so just repeating what i was told. That question I did not ask.

ok so I read all over this forum thread and did not see anything posted on the correct order for reel to bedknife adjustment.
it was close but not correct and it could have changed as trucut has been around how long. This is for my H20 so I dont know if it applies to other models.

Facing the reel standing in the front

1) lower the reel to bedknife with your adjustment tools span wrench is prefered only not to cause issues. Chain can be on or off. make sure the reel to bedknife is straight across level

2) hand tighten all the bolts and make sure your still straight accorss the bedknife and can rotate the reel not spinning just a test....slowly...
3) facing the front towards the reel tighten the top right hand side bolts the 9 o'clock and 2 o'clock the order of bolt of which first I did not ask, I should have but did not. It may not matter.
4) facing the front towards the reel tighten the bottom two left hand side bolts the 5 o'clock and the 9'oclock. once these are tightened and re-test to see if your still level straight across.
5 ) tighten the last ones looking from behind each side changes the gap to the bedknife. check the reel to make sure its straight and light to mild contact occurs not a hard scraping and can rotate freely...

Again I was told this is the process but getting it straight may require tweaking as we all know tru-cut adjustments take a bit of time.

I hope this post helps....I know i was very curious about this process.


----------



## NClawnnut78

Yeah Tru-cut mentioned the chains cannot dry out. Keep oil on them and check them regular. If they dry out they will break or have issues.


----------



## Spammage

NClawnnut78 said:


> 4) facing the front towards the reel tighten the bottom two left hand side bolts the 5 o'clock and the 9'oclock. once these are tightened and re-test to see if your still level straight across.


This is interesting, and different from what I've seen in the past. Crazy enough, this side is what always gives me the most grief. Maybe this will be the answer to the problem.


----------



## SGrabs33

sanders4617 said:


> I think a set screw on this piece worked itself out. I can move this back and forth no problem and my chain slipped off.
> 
> Anyone know what I need to get this locked back down?


There are a couple of set screw on the sprocket. They have either loosened or slipped off.


----------



## TNTurf

Too bad Tru Cut moves the reel vs the bed knife.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

So this sprocket needs to be replaced and it's rusted. I twisted an Alan wrench trying to get it off. Any suggestions?


----------



## smurg

MeanDean said:


> So this sprocket needs to be replaced and it's rusted. I twisted an Alan wrench trying to get it off. Any suggestions?


WD40 and some channel locks.


----------



## bp2878

PB blaster and bearing puller if that doesn't get it.


----------



## TNTurf

bp2878 said:


> PB blaster and bearing puller if that doesn't get it.


That would be my first move. Spray it with penetrant and let it sit a bit then use a 2/3 jaw puller. Should pop right off. Not everyone has a puller so then you would need to get more creative. I have some ideas if you dont have one. I didn't for a long time and made do then was gifted several and now use them on a regular basis since I have older equipment.


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## bp2878

Autozone will lend you a puller for free if you have one close by.


----------



## Oceanus

Please consider adding you purchases to the new Mower Purchase List 3000


----------



## NClawnnut78

Ok reel to bedknife update. Back to where I got it back from reel sharpening in off season.(they did not backlap and cut paper after grinding I know better this year.) So tested with a note card. The note card will rotate the entire reel going all the way across the bedknife facing reel right to left.(even bought a level to stick on the reel bar between the blades, it was between the lines level) Cut this weekend looks like the center cuts better than the out edges but still looked ok if i cut the grass different directions or ran over multiple times. I did go back and see some grass being bent over or ripped. Now I think i need to backlap but have never backlaped before at all.

Backlap reel:

Tru-cut wants to backlap with a kit. (I get it sales)
Questions I have can you backlap with the current chain on? Anyone had issues with that method or will it damage the chain

How much reel to bedknife pressure when turning reverse
I was going to do it 3 times and re-adjust each time.

anyone got really good advice as I am new to backlapping.
looks like 80 grit is what tru-cut wants anyone else use anything different?

any help and lessons learned would be great


----------



## TNTurf

NClawnnut78 said:


> Ok reel to bedknife update. Back to where I got it back from reel sharpening in off season.(they did not backlap and cut paper after grinding I know better this year.) So tested with a note card. The note card will rotate the entire reel going all the way across the bedknife facing reel right to left.(even bought a level to stick on the reel bar between the blades, it was between the lines level) Cut this weekend looks like the center cuts better than the out edges but still looked ok if i cut the grass different directions or ran over multiple times. I did go back and see some grass being bent over or ripped. Now I think i need to backlap but have never backlaped before at all.
> 
> Backlap reel:
> 
> Tru-cut wants to backlap with a kit. (I get it sales)
> Questions I have can you backlap with the current chain on? Anyone had issues with that method or will it damage the chain
> 
> How much reel to bedknife pressure when turning reverse
> I was going to do it 3 times and re-adjust each time.
> 
> anyone got really good advice as I am new to backlapping.
> looks like 80 grit is what tru-cut wants anyone else use anything different?
> 
> any help and lessons learned would be great


Backlapping with the chain is no harder on it than cutting with the chain. 
You want light contact, no need to make it tight against the knife. The grit in the compound needs something to work against but not overdone. 80 should be fine to start if you have not done it before and its pretty dull. 120 or 180 will be a finer finish but slower to remove material. Just like sand paper.


----------



## NClawnnut78

OK tru-cut service guys and owners need help with this one.
every time I try to cut paper I cant.(well I can in a small area.) if I get the reel as level and as close as i can get there is a slight gap note card will not cut but turn the reel. 
Here is video of the reel loose and tight. 
loose: 



tight: 




paper cut range....loose: inside the magnets



papercut range tight: inside the magnets



This reel was sharpened this last off season will backlapping even the blade or will i need to grind it level again?

this is really got me scratching my head...should i make it tighter? is that acceptable?

let me know thanks..


----------



## Evoeric

Hey Guys,

New to grass care and lawn mowers. I recently had about 6000 sqft of Bermuda Tiff-tuff installed and found a push reel wasn't going to cut it (literally and figuratively). I found a two year old Tru Cut P20 mower locally for sale picked up for $300, seemed in good condition from what I researched. Tires and overall look of the mower was in good shape, reel blade and bed knife looked in decent shape, chains all have decent tension, first pull start lit the Honda GX120 engine right up. Pulled the reel lever and blades turned right on no sort of grinding or odd sounds, same with the drive lever so I thought it was a great buy.

Fast forward two more days come Saturday, turn the mower on lit right up. Start to mow and get about one run across the grass and the engine starts seemingly to choke out and die. Go to start again and lit back up, get about half way into a pass and dies again. Mower sitting idle runs no issues, when the reel is engaged it runs ok, running both the reel and drive at the same time on the turf it dies instantly. Come next day empty gas out and put premium 91 into the mower same behavior, I can walk the mower down the grade really slow and it may make it pass or may die.

I stopped check the oil, looks brand new so I started to search for what the issue could be which leads me here. I have replaced the carb with a brand new OEM Honda carb and no change in behavior. I just replaced tonight the spark plug and haven't had a chance to run it yet but wanted to see if any one has had similar experiences.

My turf is on a medium grade, grass has grown to about 2.5 to 3.6 inches in some areas since I simply cant keep up with the push reel mower (grass is so dense it just binds up).

Any help is appreciated.

Eric


----------



## Spammage

@Evoeric does the engine idle smoothly? If it does, and is only dying when on a slope, it is probably the oil shut-off switch. I always overfill my hondas a little bit by raising the front of the mower just a tad while filling.


----------



## Evoeric

Spammage said:


> @Evoeric does the engine idle smoothly? If it does, and is only dying when on a slope, it is probably the oil shut-off switch. I always overfill my hondas a little bit by raising the front of the mower just a tad while filling.


It seems to idle fine, doesn't sputter (as far as I can tell compared to videos of sputtering). I have latterly let it sit idle for about 15 minutes without issue. It seems to only be a problem while under load. How can I test the oil shut off switch?


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Is your Tru Cut obnoxiously loud? I think mine needs a new muffler or at least I'm hoping that will help to lower it a few decibels.


----------



## SGrabs33

Spammage said:


> @Evoeric does the engine idle smoothly? If it does, and is only dying when on a slope, it is probably the oil shut-off switch. I always overfill my hondas a little bit by raising the front of the mower just a tad while filling.


Just my thought


----------



## drewwitt

Will it cut "short" grass without any problem? I have a p20 but maintain 1/2". I never cut more than a sliver off at a time. At the HOC you mentioned, I'm wondering if that's over powering? I guess the other test would be to raise your HOC bar all the way so it's not cutting grass, and engage both reel and wheels and see if it still dies.


----------



## MrTophatJones

Available locally for $360. Good deal? Anything I should look out for?


----------



## Way2low01

Picked this bad boy up this week so I can retire the manual push reel I've been using for the past few months. Tru Cut says it's roughly 13-14 years old when I called them today. The engine was surging a bit when i looked at it but figured it was something I could address. I put a new carb on it, cleaned out the gas tank (had some sediment in there), new plug, fresh oil etc and it runs like a dream now. Reel and bed knife appear to be in good shape however it fails the paper test. Looking at Tru Cuts backlaping kit it doesnt' appear to be designed for this model so I called Tru Cut and they stated they don't sell a kit for this model and to take it to a dealer for sharpening. I'd like to the work myself so any ideas on how back lap this unit? I know california trimmer sells a special tool for their machine but i doubt that would work on this. Any suggestions?


----------



## Spammage

@MrTophatJones I'd pass. The tires show a lot of use, it has the B&S engine, and the reel needs to be ground. With that much use, the clutch is also a concern.

@Way2low01 I'm betting the CalTrimmer backlapping kit would work. What do you think @SGrabs33?


----------



## Way2low01

Spammage said:


> @MrTophatJones I'd pass. The tires show a lot of use, it has the B&S engine, and the reel needs to be ground. With that much use, the clutch is also a concern.
> 
> @Way2low01 I'm betting the CalTrimmer backlapping kit would work. What do you think @SGrabs33?


Thank you Spammage. I was actually on reelrollers website placing an order for my front roller (cut backyard today and while it's pretty darn flat the wheels have to go as it still scalped ) when I came across their backlapping kit for the center drive 25" model I have so killed two birds with one stone this evening.


----------



## Spammage

Evoeric said:


> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Evoeric does the engine idle smoothly? If it does, and is only dying when on a slope, it is probably the oil shut-off switch. I always overfill my hondas a little bit by raising the front of the mower just a tad while filling.
> 
> 
> 
> It seems to idle fine, doesn't sputter (as far as I can tell compared to videos of sputtering). I have latterly let it sit idle for about 15 minutes without issue. It seems to only be a problem while under load. How can I test the oil shut off switch?
Click to expand...

There is probably enough oil for the switch to register (and stay out of the way) on flat ground, but when you get on the slope, the switch believes that the oil level is low and shuts off the engine. Try putting in a little extra oil and see if that corrects the issue.


----------



## Batsonbe

ReelCentipede said:


> Hey there bud. I just bought a used TC H20 and I'll be taking mine to https://www.turf-care.com/
> 
> I called yesterday and they said that it would be a standard 99.99 for a fresh Grind. Not sure if you're in the Charleston area or not, but it looks like they have multiple locations in a lot of other cities. Check the site out. Hope this helps you make your decision.


Just rereading this thread and noticed a response. Thank you for that. I am in spartanburg. I found a guy in travelers rest. I Never found out his prices but he seems nice. He Has been working on reels for 25+ years.


----------



## Evoeric

Spammage said:


> Evoeric said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Evoeric does the engine idle smoothly? If it does, and is only dying when on a slope, it is probably the oil shut-off switch. I always overfill my hondas a little bit by raising the front of the mower just a tad while filling.
> 
> 
> 
> It seems to idle fine, doesn't sputter (as far as I can tell compared to videos of sputtering). I have latterly let it sit idle for about 15 minutes without issue. It seems to only be a problem while under load. How can I test the oil shut off switch?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> There is probably enough oil for the switch to register (and stay out of the way) on flat ground, but when you get on the slope, the switch believes that the oil level is low and shuts off the engine. Try putting in a little extra oil and see if that corrects the issue.
Click to expand...

Alright so gave the mower a run today and it ran like a champ. Even in spots where the grass was tall and thick the reel would stall and the engine kept running. So it seems the new spark plug did the trick.


----------



## NClawnnut78

Tru-cut fans need and opinion? Im calling tru-cut tomorrow but did not know if anyone has had this issue. I went to grease my grease points again for preventative maintenance and saw this during and at the end of my mowing. Its black not green grease that I put in. So it must be old grease. let me know if I have an issue.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=--y3xTjDOnI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZ9OwlsF-Uc


----------



## DoubleBarrel

Anyone ever experience a problem with the Tru Cut throttle control sticking? Seems like it won't come off it's slowest speed unless I pull the control knob all the way out.


----------



## SGrabs33

DoubleBarrel said:


> Anyone ever experience a problem with the Tru Cut throttle control sticking? Seems like it won't come off it's slowest speed unless I pull the control knob all the way out.


There should be a spring on the control rod down near the clutch. Should be one on both sides. Pop it off and make it more springy by bending it some.


----------



## DoubleBarrel

@S@SGrabs33 - Beers on me next time you in ILM.


----------



## SGrabs33

DoubleBarrel said:


> @[email protected] - Beers on me next time you in ILM.


 :beer: :beer:


----------



## melliott2005

My C27 grass catcher will only go on when on the 3rd HOC setting or lower.

And I can only raise it up to the 6th setting before it is restricted by the grass catcher.

It's never been a problem until I wanted to raise it a bit more to cut some new sod.

Has anyone ever had a similar issue?


----------



## TNTurf

NClawnnut78 said:


> Tru-cut fans need and opinion? Im calling tru-cut tomorrow but did not know if anyone has had this issue. I went to grease my grease points again for preventative maintenance and saw this during and at the end of my mowing. Its black not green grease that I put in. So it must be old grease. let me know if I have an issue.


No issue in the videos, the grease will come out once you get it warm and its full. The color is from being inside the hub with older grease. Over time you will see more green as you replace old grease.


----------



## TNTurf

melliott2005 said:


> My C27 grass catcher will only go on when on the 3rd HOC setting or lower.
> 
> And I can only raise it up to the 6th setting before it is restricted by the grass catcher.
> 
> It's never been a problem until I wanted to raise it a bit more to cut some new sod.
> 
> Has anyone ever had a similar issue?


Do you have a roller? If so, the catcher may be hitting the top of the roller brackets. I cut the front corners off mine to keep the catcher level.


----------



## RayTL

Hey All,

I've noticed the last two mows when I mow perpendicular to the hill I live on the mower seems to slide around, almost like one wheel is maybe going faster than the other, or like the roller is sliding on the grass. It doesn't seem to happen when mowing the opposite direction. Could this be a slipping drive clutch?

Thanks, Ray


----------



## FuzzeWuzze

So i have a really old 3.5Hp Briggs & Stratton TruCut i got for $50 last year because the dude just left it in the rain and it went to shit and rusted, cleaned it up a bit, backlapped it and it was cutting paper across the entire knife so i was happy. This year i think the fouled up gas tank got to it(it was full of rust) and it just starts and dies within seconds, i tried giving it a jump start with some carb cleaner in the intake but then it just runs for a few extra seconds and dies. So i figure the carb(their horizontal carb) jet is just screwed, after taking it apart this thing being probably 15+ years old the gaskets were not surprisingly pretty shot, especially around the gas tank i had to peel it off in pieces.

I'm a bit torn between buying an entirely new carb(presumably some chinese knockoff) or the gasket kit and hoping my cleaning of the existing carb works. There is only like a $5 difference between the two, so i am tempted to just go all new rather than potentially spending another week or two screwing with this thing trying to get it to fire properly.


----------



## TNTurf

FuzzeWuzze said:


> So i have a really old 3.5Hp Briggs & Stratton TruCut i got for $50 last year because the dude just left it in the rain and it went to s--- and rusted, cleaned it up a bit, backlapped it and it was cutting paper across the entire knife so i was happy. This year i think the fouled up gas tank got to it(it was full of rust) and it just starts and dies within seconds, i tried giving it a jump start with some carb cleaner in the intake but then it just runs for a few extra seconds and dies. So i figure the carb(their horizontal carb) jet is just screwed, after taking it apart this thing being probably 15+ years old the gaskets were not surprisingly pretty shot, especially around the gas tank i had to peel it off in pieces.
> 
> I'm a bit torn between buying an entirely new carb(presumably some chinese knockoff) or the gasket kit and hoping my cleaning of the existing carb works. There is only like a $5 difference between the two, so i am tempted to just go all new rather than potentially spending another week or two screwing with this thing trying to get it to fire properly.


For $5 more buy the new carb. You can coat the tank as well. Remove it, wash it out with solvent and coat it to cover the rust. Red-Kote is a good brand, just read the label on the can which is easy to follow.


----------



## FuzzeWuzze

TNTurf said:


> FuzzeWuzze said:
> 
> 
> 
> So i have a really old 3.5Hp Briggs & Stratton TruCut i got for $50 last year because the dude just left it in the rain and it went to s--- and rusted, cleaned it up a bit, backlapped it and it was cutting paper across the entire knife so i was happy. This year i think the fouled up gas tank got to it(it was full of rust) and it just starts and dies within seconds, i tried giving it a jump start with some carb cleaner in the intake but then it just runs for a few extra seconds and dies. So i figure the carb(their horizontal carb) jet is just screwed, after taking it apart this thing being probably 15+ years old the gaskets were not surprisingly pretty shot, especially around the gas tank i had to peel it off in pieces.
> 
> I'm a bit torn between buying an entirely new carb(presumably some chinese knockoff) or the gasket kit and hoping my cleaning of the existing carb works. There is only like a $5 difference between the two, so i am tempted to just go all new rather than potentially spending another week or two screwing with this thing trying to get it to fire properly.
> 
> 
> 
> For $5 more buy the new carb. You can coat the tank as well. Remove it, wash it out with solvent and coat it to cover the rust. Red-Kote is a good brand, just read the label on the can which is easy to follow.
Click to expand...

Interesting, thanks for the info ill try that. I already have it soaking in vinegar. If that doesnt do the job what solvent should i use? CLR or something?


----------



## TNTurf

FuzzeWuzze said:


> TNTurf said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FuzzeWuzze said:
> 
> 
> 
> So i have a really old 3.5Hp Briggs & Stratton TruCut i got for $50 last year because the dude just left it in the rain and it went to s--- and rusted, cleaned it up a bit, backlapped it and it was cutting paper across the entire knife so i was happy. This year i think the fouled up gas tank got to it(it was full of rust) and it just starts and dies within seconds, i tried giving it a jump start with some carb cleaner in the intake but then it just runs for a few extra seconds and dies. So i figure the carb(their horizontal carb) jet is just screwed, after taking it apart this thing being probably 15+ years old the gaskets were not surprisingly pretty shot, especially around the gas tank i had to peel it off in pieces.
> 
> I'm a bit torn between buying an entirely new carb(presumably some chinese knockoff) or the gasket kit and hoping my cleaning of the existing carb works. There is only like a $5 difference between the two, so i am tempted to just go all new rather than potentially spending another week or two screwing with this thing trying to get it to fire properly.
> 
> 
> 
> For $5 more buy the new carb. You can coat the tank as well. Remove it, wash it out with solvent and coat it to cover the rust. Red-Kote is a good brand, just read the label on the can which is easy to follow.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Interesting, thanks for the info ill try that. I already have it soaking in vinegar. If that doesnt do the job what solvent should i use? CLR or something?
Click to expand...

Vinegar maybe all you need. The tank coat needs a clean surface. Once the tank rusts it will likely rust again without some treatment. You could skip the step and clean everything out here and there and keep up with it but the coating makes it easier long term to live with.


----------



## Retired Soldier

Looking to go with a reel mower next year for my yard. Been looking at the truCut and found a 27 inch with roller and catcher for $650. I do have to drive 2.5 hours to pick up if I buy it. Looks to be in great shape and the guy selling it because he brought a JD Triplex(whatever that is lol) mower for his yard. What do you guys think? I've seen used ones going for almost double that price here in Atlanta. Here are a couple of pictures for now. He is texting more after work along with a video of it cutting. Says the blades and bed knife was just sharpened by a professional shop.


----------



## FuzzeWuzze

Seems legit, if for no other reason i'd say anyone thats replacing a Tru-Cut with a Triplex(what golf courses use) is pretty hardcore as they are very expensive, and therefore babied that Trucut. But you never know.


----------



## Retired Soldier

Thanks for the reply.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Retired Soldier looks pretty good for 650. It does look like it been sharpened recently. FYI it's missing both chain guards. He may have taken them off for maintenance so just ask if he still has them if you want them.


----------



## Retired Soldier

@SGrabs33, I'm about to ask him that right quick. Thanks for the heads up


----------



## Retired Soldier

He doesn't have the chain guards, is that a issue? I figured I could look into buying some.


----------



## SGrabs33

Retired Soldier said:


> He doesn't have the chain guards, is that a issue? I figured I could look into buying some.


Going to cost like $150 prob. Risk of throwing a chain and doing some damage if that happens.


----------



## Retired Soldier

@SGrabs33 Oh ok. Man, I appreciate the info.


----------



## SGrabs33

Retired Soldier said:


> SGrabs33 Oh ok. Man, I appreciate the info.


I'm sure lots of people use it without the guards but it's def a safety issue possibly.


----------



## drewwitt

Honda: check. Good tires: check. Front roller: check. Reel: double check. Clutch:????

Looks like a good buy. Do it.


----------



## Retired Soldier

drewwitt said:


> Honda: check. Good tires: check. Front roller: check. Reel: double check. Clutch:????
> 
> Looks like a good buy. Do it.


Thanks man lol, I'm sitting here trying to figure out if I should pull the trigger on it. Trying to find the chain guards for it. He sent me the serial number which starts with 82. Is that the year it was made? Still doing my research. Haven't seen a 27 inch that comes close to this price and shape so far.


----------



## drewwitt

Retired Soldier said:


> drewwitt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Honda: check. Good tires: check. Front roller: check. Reel: double check. Clutch:????
> 
> Looks like a good buy. Do it.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man lol, I'm sitting here trying to figure out if I should pull the trigger on it. Trying to find the chain guards for it. He sent me the serial number which starts with 82. Is that the year it was made? Still doing my research. Haven't seen a 27 inch that comes close to this price and shape so far.
Click to expand...

I think it's a great price for a 27 in that good of shape. FWIW I don't have chain guards on mine. They're missing. Dolphin power equipment seems to be the only place to buy that type of stuff.


----------



## SGrabs33

drewwitt said:


> Retired Soldier said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> drewwitt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Honda: check. Good tires: check. Front roller: check. Reel: double check. Clutch:????
> 
> Looks like a good buy. Do it.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man lol, I'm sitting here trying to figure out if I should pull the trigger on it. Trying to find the chain guards for it. He sent me the serial number which starts with 82. Is that the year it was made? Still doing my research. Haven't seen a 27 inch that comes close to this price and shape so far.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think it's a great price for a 27 in that good of shape. FWIW I don't have chain guards on mine. They're missing. Dolphin power equipment seems to be the only place to buy that type of stuff.
Click to expand...

I called Dolphin the other day and they said they aren't a TruCut dealer anymore :shock:


----------



## drewwitt

Oh man. Well. I hope someone emerges that doesn't charge a minimum $75 order...


----------



## cnet24

@SGrabs33 really? I have no idea where else you can go for parts...


----------



## SGrabs33

cnet24 said:


> SGrabs33 really? I have no idea where else you can go for parts...


Call TruCut and ask who your distributor is. Then your distributor can tell you which dealers are close to you. I've got one that is about 30 min from me.


----------



## Retired Soldier

SGrabs33 said:


> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 really? I have no idea where else you can go for parts...
> 
> 
> 
> Call TruCut and ask who your distributor is. Then your distributor can tell you which dealers are close to you. I've got one that is about 30 min from me.
Click to expand...

Guy ended up getting it the night before I was scheduled to drive up the next morning. I'll keep looking. Appreciate all the feedback from this forum.


----------



## FuzzeWuzze

Well turns out that i cant source the exact carb for my old Trucut, at least not for cheap(<$100). So ill be putting the old one i cleaned up back on once i can figure out where to find the gaskets. Hoping Napa or the like can help source for a reasonable price, the gas tank gasket and carb->block gaskets were pretty screwed up being so old.

Honestly though now my biggest worry is not being able to put it all back together. I regret not taking pictures of every step taking it apart. I know how the carb goes together, but not 100% sure how it all hooked up to the throttle and such...should be fun?


----------



## mre_man_76

I found some good deals on 3 different used Tru-Cuts for my centipede in North Carolina. Would like opinions based on my grass type and 10,000 sq ft lawn and if I should consider another brand/model. 2 are 20 inch and not sure of the 3rd but all reasonably priced. Only con is how far to travel to pick them up.

This is $300 and 6 hours away, no idea of size. No idea why selling but seller says blades need sharpening:








This is a 20 inch 2 hours away for $540. Selling because no longer use but owner says it's ready to cut:















This looks like the best deal of them all but it's 11 hrs away. It's a 20 inch for $300. Selling because he bought a toro greens master but he says after 1 cut with the toro that the tru-cut had a better cut:





Any input is appreciated.
TIA!!!!


----------



## drewwitt

Honda > Briggs.


----------



## mre_man_76

drewwitt said:


> Honda > Briggs.


Hate to nag but can you give a little more in depth as to why Honda, the Briggs?


----------



## drewwitt

My experience only: never had issues with my Honda engines. Briggs is another story. Most prefer Honda over Briggs. They're more expensive and last longer.

That said, the primary things you're looking for on a tru cut are 1) reel condition and 2 clutch. Those are the two most expensive and painful repairs and adjustments. I'd take a trucut that has a good reel and clutch with a Briggs over a Honda that needed a new clutch assembly.

If an engine is shot, you can get a preditor 212cc Honda Clone engine at harbor freight for $99 and swap it out.

I bought a used trucut p20 that sat in a barn for 7 years. It belonged to a diseased family member, and his heir was selling it. He didn't know if it was a mower or not. I had to tell him it was indeed a mower. I picked it up for $200 cash. I took it home, drained the gas and oil, put fresh gas and oil in it. Did NOT change the spark plug (was going to) and it started on the first pull. Has worked flawlessly since. Honda!


----------



## smurg

The tires on the first two are just about done and they're expensive to say the least. I'd keep waiting if you go for the 3rd.


----------



## mre_man_76

SGrabs33 said:


> Luthersrose said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a tru cut p20 and it seems like I am having to replace the motor chain once a year. It stretches out and the link connector breaks. My guess is the clutch needs replacing. I've ordered a new one and it is on the way. How hard is it to replace? I order the whole assembly thinking it might be easier to replace than just the sprocket and shaft. What adjustments if any do I have to make after installing the clutch?. I have a new chain but it is too tight with the old clutch my guess is with the new one it should be long enough.
> 
> 
> 
> First, it's great to have another NCer in here. What part are you from?
> 
> That's a pretty expensive guess. How much did the new clutch assembly run you. I have dealt with my share of TruCut problems but I do not know to tell when the clutch needs replacing. I'm not sure if there is anyone else on here knows any of the tell tale signs of when it goes bad???
> 
> What size chain are you using to do the replacement. I think the correct # is 40. That's weird that the link is breaking. Maybe the chain is too loose and that's causing extra wear and stress on the link. I'm not too sure. The best way to replace the chain is to count the links of the old chain and match that number to the new chain. That way the only difference in the two should be the stretching of the original.
> 
> Do you know what is included in the whole assembly that you purchased? Drive sprocket and both clutch cups for both sides? It shouldn't be too hard to replace as long as you are good at keeping track of what goes where and are somewhat mechanically inclined. If you were able to do a write up of the process with lots of pictures I think that would help a lot of people out in the future. I've been told my clutch may need replacing sometime soon.
> 
> You will definitely have to do some adjusting but MightyQuinn has done a great outline of that process above. It will be slightly different for the P20 but you should get the jist.
> 
> Do you have a picture of your reel and the chain area? I doubt we would be able to tell what is going with a pic but might as well try.
> 
> Also, what makes you think that the new chain you have will fit with the new clutch assembly? The drive sprocket replacement is not going to change in size enough to make a difference for that, I don't think.
> 
> Finally, I've been typing this on my phone in bed so I apologize for typos or if any of my comments seem aggressive. I've been going with train of thought typing.
> 
> Welcome to the forum!
Click to expand...

Another NC'er here. Please check out my recent post and tell me what you think. Trying to get setup for next year but trying to stay within a budget.

TIA!!!


----------



## BakerGreenLawnMaker

This may already be on this page, but on the TruCut there are (3) bolts on the outside of the reel, which bolt adjusts the reel to bedknife contact?


----------



## bp2878

BakerGreenLawnMaker said:


> This may already be on this page, but on the TruCut there are (3) bolts on the outside of the reel, which bolt adjusts the reel to bedknife contact?


All of them, 3 on each side. It's a cam adjuster. Loosen all of them, set it, then tighten them up. Look back in this thread for for proper sequence though, its important.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

bp2878 said:


> BakerGreenLawnMaker said:
> 
> 
> 
> This may already be on this page, but on the TruCut there are (3) bolts on the outside of the reel, which bolt adjusts the reel to bedknife contact?
> 
> 
> 
> All of them, 3 on each side. It's a cam adjuster. Loosen all of them, set it, then tighten them up. Look back in this thread for for proper sequence though, its important.
Click to expand...

I've not found that a sequence matters on mine. I've tried the recommended pattern from Tru Cut and it made no difference at all.


----------



## bp2878

MeanDean said:


> bp2878 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BakerGreenLawnMaker said:
> 
> 
> 
> This may already be on this page, but on the TruCut there are (3) bolts on the outside of the reel, which bolt adjusts the reel to bedknife contact?
> 
> 
> 
> All of them, 3 on each side. It's a cam adjuster. Loosen all of them, set it, then tighten them up. Look back in this thread for for proper sequence though, its important.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I've not found that a sequence matters on mine. I've tried the recommended pattern from Tru Cut and it made no difference at all.
Click to expand...

I assumed it did based on what everyone here says. Never tried it any other way. I think its a crappy design either way. Only real drawback of the trucut, other than the extremely high price of replacement parts. Very nimble and easy to use mower otherwise, although Ive found that mine doesn't function nearly as well when cutting sub .5"


----------



## Keepin It Reel

bp2878 said:


> MeanDean said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> bp2878 said:
> 
> 
> 
> All of them, 3 on each side. It's a cam adjuster. Loosen all of them, set it, then tighten them up. Look back in this thread for for proper sequence though, its important.
> 
> 
> 
> I've not found that a sequence matters on mine. I've tried the recommended pattern from Tru Cut and it made no difference at all.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I assumed it did based on what everyone here says. Never tried it any other way. I think its a crappy design either way. Only real drawback of the trucut, other than the extremely high price of replacement parts. Very nimble and easy to use mower otherwise, although Ive found that mine doesn't function nearly as well when cutting sub .5"
Click to expand...

I have a 27" and the difference in height from the far left to right side varies about 1/4" which I think is common on most. I'm sure anything less than 1/2" cut it would be noticeable.


----------



## bp2878

Mine pitches forward so much when cutting under 1/2" that the tires don't get great traction. Add the weight of the grass catcher to the nose with grass in it and it is even worse. I raised my cut height up to .75 and it performs like a completely different machine, like it should. I guess I shouldn't really expect it to do what a greensmower does. My 220b is complete opposite, it cuts better at sub .5 than .75. Nice to have both.


----------



## Way2low01

Agreed, the weight of the grass catcher causes my 25" to dig in quite a bit as well. Loaded up it adds a good bit of weight to the front of the machine. I seldom use the catcher myself.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

How often do you guys grease your machines?


----------



## thelawnpirate

Previous owner said "hasn't been used for last couple years, would need tune-up and blade sharpened. Sold for $1100 new"

I believe its an H20, owner confirmed its a Honda GC135. Serial # 811907. Posted for $300, thoughts on that price given whether it A) runs or not, which doesn't sound like it does and B) reel/bedknife condition? Only two pictures posted.

Going in expecting it needing a full-service, any advice?


----------



## mre_man_76

thelawnpirate said:


> Previous owner said "hasn't been used for last couple years, would need tune-up and blade sharpened. Sold for $1100 new"
> 
> I believe its an H20, owner confirmed its a Honda GC135. Serial # 811907. Posted for $300, thoughts on that price given whether it A) runs or not, which doesn't sound like it does and B) reel/bedknife condition? Only two pictures posted.
> 
> Going in expecting it needing a full-service, any advice?


You can add another 5-600 if the reel and clutch needs replacing which you can't tell unless you see it in person. Also is the size good for you? If it's relatively close by and the size is right I'd say check it out and even if the reel needs replacing but the clutch is good I'd jump on it. Heck, I drove 12 hours to get my C-27 and had no clue if the reel or clutch was in good condition. Luckily for me they were.


----------



## thelawnpirate

@mre_man_76 
Thanks for the quick response! Much appreciated. Size is fine by me, I think the 27 size would be a little bigger than what I could fit and/or need.

Here are a couple of dumb questions. How can I tell if the clutch needs replacing? And other than the reel/bedknife looking visibly bent, any other signs I should be looking for on the reel? It's not too far away, but want to go prepared.

If both reel/clutch need replacing, what would be a fair price?


----------



## mre_man_76

I'm no mechanic but what I looked for was any issues with the reel/wheels engaging/disengaging. That tells me either the clutch needs adjusting or replacing. Really a judgment call. As for the reel, unless it's really obvious a special tool is needed to tell if it's excessively worn. Just look out for any nicks or dents that back-lapping would not fix. Season is coming to an end so if you determine that it's in good enough condition to buy you can get it serviced in the off season to be ready for next spring.


----------



## drewwitt

I bought my p20 that sat in a barn for 7 years for $200. Guy was asking 400. It had a Honda. I replaced the gas and oil and it started on the first pull. The reel was rusty and needed a grind and backlap, but the clutch seems fine. I'd say 200-300 would be worth the gamble. A brand new reel is around $270 I think. Bedknife another $20-30 probably. I never researched the clutch set up, but I've heard horror stories.


----------



## Guest

I've replaced the clutch assembly myself on a P20 ain't no fun but it can be done. DIY cost was around $150 for the parts. 3-4 hours of greasy work


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Does anyone know why the TruCut website link now redirects to McLane Mowers?


----------



## TNTurf

Backyard Soldier said:


> Does anyone know why the TruCut website link now redirects to McLane Mowers?


trucutmower.com works fine for me


----------



## Backyard Soldier

TNTurf said:


> Backyard Soldier said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know why the TruCut website link now redirects to McLane Mowers?
> 
> 
> 
> trucutmower.com works fine for me
Click to expand...

That site seems wonky. It's not the site I've used in past to order items.

I've been trying:

http://www.trucutreelmowers.com/

But it now redirects me to McLane


----------



## Mister Bill

Backyard Soldier said:


> TNTurf said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Backyard Soldier said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know why the TruCut website link now redirects to McLane Mowers?
> 
> 
> 
> trucutmower.com works fine for me
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That site seems wonky. It's not the site I've used in past to order items.
> 
> I've been trying:
> 
> http://www.trucutreelmowers.com/
> 
> But it now redirects me to McLane
Click to expand...

I was informed Dolphin Outdoor Power Equipment (www.trucutreelmowers.com) is no longer a Tru-Cut dealer and has switched to selling Mclane products exclusively and is one of three wholesale distributers in the USA, hence, the redirect. The www.trucutmower.com link posted above is the manufacturers website, not Dolphin. Hope this helps.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Mister Bill said:


> Backyard Soldier said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TNTurf said:
> 
> 
> 
> trucutmower.com works fine for me
> 
> 
> 
> That site seems wonky. It's not the site I've used in past to order items.
> 
> I've been trying:
> 
> http://www.trucutreelmowers.com/
> 
> But it now redirects me to McLane
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was informed Dolphin Outdoor Power Equipment (www.trucutreelmowers.com) is no longer a Tru-Cut dealer and has switched to selling Mclane products exclusively and is one of three wholesale distributers in the USA, hence, the redirect. The www.trucutmower.com link posted above is the manufacturers website, not Dolphin. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

ahhh...this explains it...I also noticed that Dolphin deactivated all prior video content on TruCuts from YT. seems like there's been some fallout of sorts.

I haven't been able to find a way to order parts on the trucut site tho...lrt me keep searching, see what I'm doing wrong

thanks FKL


----------



## Mister Bill

Backyard Soldier said:


> Mister Bill said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Backyard Soldier said:
> 
> 
> 
> That site seems wonky. It's not the site I've used in past to order items.
> 
> I've been trying:
> 
> http://www.trucutreelmowers.com/
> 
> But it now redirects me to McLane
> 
> 
> 
> I was informed Dolphin Outdoor Power Equipment (www.trucutreelmowers.com) is no longer a Tru-Cut dealer and has switched to selling Mclane products exclusively and is one of three wholesale distributers in the USA, hence, the redirect. The www.trucutmower.com link posted above is the manufacturers website, not Dolphin. Hope this helps.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ahhh...this explains it...I also noticed that Dolphin deactivated all prior video content on TruCuts from YT. seems like there's been some fallout of sorts.
> 
> I haven't been able to find a way to order parts on the trucut site tho...lrt me keep searching, see what I'm doing wrong
> 
> thanks FKL
Click to expand...

If you go to Dolpin's website and under "Shop by category" click on "Beware of Scams" the last two paragraphs tell the tone of the divorce. Unprofessional in my opinion, but definitely some bad blood there. A few months ago Tru-Cut was the best thing since sliced bread and Mclane was inferior. Now, just the opposite. Were they lying then or lying now? :lol:

As far as I know, Tru-Cut doesn't sell parts to the public directly. You will need to go through an authorized retail dealer to do so. Good luck in your search.


----------



## jayhawk

Mister Bill said:


> Backyard Soldier said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TNTurf said:
> 
> 
> 
> trucutmower.com works fine for me
> 
> 
> 
> That site seems wonky. It's not the site I've used in past to order items.
> 
> I've been trying:
> 
> http://www.trucutreelmowers.com/
> 
> But it now redirects me to McLane
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was informed Dolphin Outdoor Power Equipment (www.trucutreelmowers.com) is no longer a Tru-Cut dealer and has switched to selling Mclane products exclusively and is one of three wholesale distributers in the USA, hence, the redirect. The www.trucutmower.com link posted above is the manufacturers website, not Dolphin. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Under beware of scams "Selling you a "Thumb Drive" Mower and not explaining that this is a labor-intensive and uncomfortable mower to operate - one which requires you use your left thumb to engage, disengage, and "feather" to adjust the ground speed of the mower." 
Labor intensive?


----------



## Backyard Soldier

jayhawk said:


> Mister Bill said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Backyard Soldier said:
> 
> 
> 
> That site seems wonky. It's not the site I've used in past to order items.
> 
> I've been trying:
> 
> http://www.trucutreelmowers.com/
> 
> But it now redirects me to McLane
> 
> 
> 
> I was informed Dolphin Outdoor Power Equipment (www.trucutreelmowers.com) is no longer a Tru-Cut dealer and has switched to selling Mclane products exclusively and is one of three wholesale distributers in the USA, hence, the redirect. The www.trucutmower.com link posted above is the manufacturers website, not Dolphin. Hope this helps.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Under beware of scams "Selling you a "Thumb Drive" Mower and not explaining that this is a labor-intensive and uncomfortable mower to operate - one which requires you use your left thumb to engage, disengage, and "feather" to adjust the ground speed of the mower."
> Labor intensive?
Click to expand...

Yeah dude,,,that entire statement alone make me wonder EVERYTHING else Dolphin claims. Whether true or not. Sheeeeesh


----------



## Luthersrose

So I take it from this posting that dolphin outdoor power equipment doesn't carry tru-cut parts anymore? Does anyone know someplace else to buy parts? I've bought parts from them before and had good service.
I need to replace the differential assembly on my P20. The teeth on the sprocket are worn down and the chain has too much play in it. I replaced the chain and had it snug. As soon as I turned it on and engaged the drive the chain become loose. I figure it's easier to replace the whole assembly than just the sprocket. I did that when I replaced the clutch assembly a few years back. Is that a correct assumption?
Thanks.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Correct. They no longer sell tru Cut parts. Hope someone can answer where now. I've been looking myself. Need a bedknife


----------



## drewwitt

I have found the thumb drive control to be a pleasurable experience. Grateful for the scam!


----------



## SGrabs33

@Luthersrose @Backyard Soldier 
Call TruCut and find out who your local dealer/distributor is.


----------



## SGrabs33

SGrabs33 said:


> @Luthersrose @Backyard Soldier
> Call TruCut and find out who your local dealer/distributor is.


Oh, I see now you all are in N.C. and S.C. your distributor is Blalock Machinery. Call them and ask for a local dealer. Mine is ProMow here near Raleigh NC.


----------



## Luthersrose

Thanks I'm in Raleigh as well. I've had pro mow fix it before but wasn't impressed with his repair side. Will see if he will order parts for me. Thanks.


----------



## Luthersrose

Also I've learned to fix it myself now and have a friend who retired from John Deere where he designed their golf course mowers and he helps me. Thanks


----------



## SGrabs33

Luthersrose said:


> Thanks I'm in Raleigh as well. I've had pro mow fix it before but wasn't impressed with his repair side. Will see if he will order parts for me. Thanks.


I had a similar experience. They were nice but there was an issue with a replacement part I ordered and I needed up having to call TruCut to get an answer.


----------



## Luthersrose

I have a p20 and replaced the clutch assembly a couple of years ago. It works great now. 
The other day the differential chain slipped off. I replaced it last night, thinking that that chain hadn't t been replaced since I bought the mower used 8 years ago. I had the new chain good and snug on there. I ran it for a few minutes and it became loose again with some play in it.
I went to cut the grass tonight and got about 30 minute of cutting before it slipped off again and won't stay on the back big sprocket that is attached to the back axle. My guess is I need to replace the differential assembly as the teeth on that sprocket are worn down and the chain won't stay on. Does that sound correct?
Thanks for the assistance/advice.


----------



## agrassman

Have an awesome brother and sister in-law that are downsizing with kids off to college and gave me a trucut. Here are the pics. Doesn't start but think it is just old gas as he hasn't used it in a while. Can anyone tell from the pics the condition? For free I can't complain. Will look to get it checked out in the winter to be ready for next spring.


----------



## Batsonbe

Hello everyone. I was back lapping my tru cut and I stripped the nut on the inside of the machine while tightening / loosening the bolts to adjust the reel to bedknife. I am curious how I'd go about fixing this?
Thank you


----------



## bp2878

Try running a tap thru it to straighten up your threads. 1/4-28 threads I believe. Should fix it. If not, you can get a little longer bolt and a locking jam nut as long as it doesn't make contact with the reel. If it does, grind the nut off and either have another welded in its place or just use a locknut without welding in place. A tap will probably take care of it though. I would also get a new bolt.


----------



## Luthersrose

I need some help with my tru cut p20. A couple of weeks ago the differential chain slipped off the differential sprocket. I replaced the chain as I had not done so since I purchased it seven years ago and I thought it was time. I turn the motor on and engaged the clutch for the wheels and the chain slipped off again. I ordered a new differential assembly and differential idler. I replaced both of them and put the chain back on and proceeded to cut the grass tonight. After cutting about 10 rows of grass the chain started slipping again and falls off. I'm not sure what to do to fix it. The chain was good and tight when I put it on. When I engage the the clutch it seemed to be tight and very little slack in the chain. Here are some pictures. Not sure if I have something incorrect in my set up or not. Any help/assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks


----------



## Luthersrose

Update on my posting above. I figured out as long as kept mower level the chain stayed on. It only slipped off when I was cutting my slope and mower was tilted to the left. Anyone have any idea what needs adjusted? Thanks.


----------



## SGrabs33

Luthersrose said:


> Update on my posting above. I figured out as long as kept mower level the chain stayed on. It only slipped off when I was cutting my slope and mower was tilted to the left. Anyone have any idea what needs adjusted? Thanks.


How loose is the chain? It looks like the tensioner is being used quite a bit there. That chain can come close to dragging on the ground if it isnt tight enough.


----------



## Luthersrose

Thanks. I think that might've been the problem. I took the chain off and took a link out, loosened the tensioner, connected the chain, and then tightened the tensioner but made sure it was further down towards the ground rather than up like it previously was. The chain is nice and snug now. I tried it and it works. Real test will come when I try to cut the grass. Thanks again for your help.


----------



## DLCHuntBchCA

Wish me luck... I am diving into the guts of the clutch assembly this week.

Just bought a H25 off of Craigs List last month. Makes a horrible racket from the chain drive/sprocket assembly. Chain is sooo bad, I'm surprised it works. About 20% of the links have lost their sleeves!

Besides the chain noise, the sprocket must be dry. I am guessing that there is a bearing in there. I have attempted to grease it from each end of the drive assembly, but cannot get it to quiet down at all. Greased the clutch assembly with over 2 (small) tubes of grease one on each end with half the tube without the clutches engaged and the 2nd half with. Have gone through 5 tubes of grease for the whole mower. Started with Plews multi purpose grease then switched to Lucas Marine. Worked great with seeing black to brown to blue on some of the exit spots. Guessing that the previous owner(s) had never greased it.

I'll take pictures of the pieces as I clean this up and figure out what I can and cannot replace myself. And I'm taking measurements to see what chains will work better or not for each of the sprockets. Visually, the wheel drive sprocket looks thicker than the motor and reel drive sprockets, but they all have the same size chain. First set of measurements do not show much of a difference:


----------



## SGrabs33

@DLCHuntBchCA keep is updated with some pics if you can! Looks like a fun project.


----------



## cnet24

My wife got me the grooved front roller for Christmas, and I finished the install over the Holidays. Overall super easy install (just a few bolts). When complete it's important to check and make sure the roller is level and doesn't need adjusting. I'll complete my first mow post install today on my overseed, so the jury is still out on cut quality. The roller seems much lighter compared to my previous one- I could immediately tell a difference afterward. Makes sense given the bar as less material, but I'm hoping that doesn't affect cut quality.


----------



## Chris LI

So, I'm beginning my search for an H20 or P20 and have been researching the solid and grooved rollers from Reel Rollers. As much as I want a grooved roller, and see the benefits from it, a solid roller might be more appropriate for my application. I have a smaller yard ~5k and have a lot of maneuvering with a few tight turns (mostly in the backyard). Even if I am careful to lift the front when turning, would I tear up the turf with multiple turns? I have no experience with the Tru-Cuts, so I'm trying to think ahead, in case I find one that still has casters on it, because they will be gone in no time.

Any input is appreciated (as well as any leads on any available units in the NY metro area).

Thanks in advance.


----------



## Chris LI

@cnet24 
Congrats! I'm looking forward to your feedback.


----------



## TexasJohn

I was scalping today for pre spring cut, I hit a rock or a nail took a good nick out of one of the blades, how will I fix that? Or do I leave this alone , I dont want it make the blade un even if I grind that nick out?


----------



## SGrabs33

TexasJohn said:


> I was scalping today for pre spring cut, I hit a rock or a nail took a good nick out of one of the blades, how will I fix that? Or do I leave this alone , I dont want it make the blade un even if I grind that nick out?


got a pic? you can try and backlap it to see if the nick goes away. best option if it isnt cutting well anymore is to get it ground.


----------



## smurg

TexasJohn said:


> I was scalping today for pre spring cut, I hit a rock or a nail took a good nick out of one of the blades, how will I fix that? Or do I leave this alone , I dont want it make the blade un even if I grind that nick out?


Depends on how bad the nick is. Before I bought a metal detector, swept the yard, and picked up 50+ sod staples, I clipped many sod staples. However, they either got flung or cut in half and let some small nicks. I just used a bastard file and got them ground down close to the remaining blade. When I back lapped next, it took them down even with the remaining blade. However, you are still missing part of the blade in that spot, so you may notice grass not getting cut. I cut two ways on most of the yard and go fairly slow, so I end up without any noticeable spots that are missed.


----------



## Ptb427

Just picked up a C27. It's in good shape but would like to repaint some areas eventually. Anybody have a source for the TruCut red or a paint code? Maybe a close substitute?


----------



## TexasJohn

Thanks just pissed me off that all of a sudden I have a rock or nail in the yard, been mowing it will reel for 1 year and never hit anything, I filed it down the ruff edges but its a good nick


----------



## TNTurf

TexasJohn said:


> Thanks just pissed me off that all of a sudden I have a rock or nail in the yard, been mowing it will reel for 1 year and never hit anything, I filed it down the ruff edges but its a good nick


I ran though a handful of change someone tossed in my yard once. Hit 3 nickels before I could stop and see what I was hitting. They were all grouped together.


----------



## kmajoros

Ptb427 said:


> Just picked up a C27. It's in good shape but would like to repaint some areas eventually. Anybody have a source for the TruCut red or a paint code? Maybe a close substitute?


Looking for this info as well.


----------



## lilslugger

First time post to ask a question, hope it's an easy one! Greased our P20 today for the first time, got most of the zerks but need a flat 90 lock n lube instead of the regular 90 coupler I had. The easy release lock n lube coupler was perfect. But before using it we used the coupler that came with the grease gun. It got stuck on the zerk and we pulled the zerk right out. Where can I buy a new zerk, what size, and do I need a special tool to put it in?


----------



## SGrabs33

lilslugger said:


> First time post to ask a question, hope it's an easy one! Greased our P20 today for the first time, got most of the zerks but need a flat 90 lock n lube instead of the regular 90 coupler I had. The easy release lock n lube coupler was perfect. But before using it we used the coupler that came with the grease gun. It got stuck on the zerk and we pulled the zerk right out. Where can I buy a new zerk, what size, and do I need a special tool to put it in?


Should be a press fit so you can reuse the one that popped out already. This may be the size of you need another.



TNTurf said:


> dwills02 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need some help fellas. I'm missing a zerk here and I've tried 1/4, 1/8, 8mm, and 10mm but none of them work. Any suggestions? Am I missing something or should one of those sizes work?
> 
> 
> 
> None of the zerks on a Tru-Cut are threaded, they are all press fit. That one should be a 5/16 and you want it to have a 45 degree to reach it for filling.
Click to expand...


----------



## lilslugger

Thanks!


----------



## Reelrollers

kmajoros said:


> Ptb427 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just picked up a C27. It's in good shape but would like to repaint some areas eventually. Anybody have a source for the TruCut red or a paint code? Maybe a close substitute?
> 
> 
> 
> Looking for this info as well.
Click to expand...

There is a Tru Cut color we used to purchase from Sherwin Williams
o	F77R14

Now we powder coat our brackets for the Tru Cut rollers to match the mowers and use RAL3003


----------



## Sooner_37

Anyone ever seen an OEM TruCut front roller versus the aftermarket one from Reel Rollers side by side? From what I have found, the OEM is much heavier and closer to the reel, but I wanted input before I get one. Thanks!


----------



## SGrabs33

Hulk37 said:


> Anyone ever seen an OEM TruCut front roller versus the aftermarket one from Reel Rollers side by side? From what I have found, the OEM is much heavier and closer to the reel, but I wanted input before I get one. Thanks!


Here is the overview of the differences from the aftermarket seller, Reel Rollers.

I'll add that the weight difference is the biggest thing to me. The OEM roller is heavy enough to where you can't sit the REEL on its back without it trying to sit back up on you.



Reelrollers said:


> Redtenchu said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would prefer that roller over my reelroller.com purchase! The swept back design keeps the roller closer to the reel, less likely to scalp on uneven surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> First, any roller is better than no roller! Full disclosure, we are the manufacture and patent holder for all California Trimmer, Tru Cut, and McLane Front Rollers.
> 
> But, if interested, I would love to send 2-3 folks at no charge our front roller if they own a Tru Cut mower with a Tru Cut brand front roller. I provided my comparision below with pictures, but it would be only fair if we had some unbiased opinions posted here on TLF. PM me if interested in putting together a video, post, and images and we'll ship one to you.
> 
> So here's the history and differences = Tru-Cut had to design their roller to be different from ours due to our patents. That's why theirs looks "after market" and our roller looks like it was manufactured with the roller. Because they need to have a different design, my experience with their roller has been:
> 
> 1. Their roller is too heavy. Ours 27" roller weighs 15lbs. Theirs is almost 22lbs. In theory better, but unfortunately it adds a lot of strain on the clutch and your thumb... Throw a grass catcher on there and you are really fighting that tank and putting a lot compaction on your turf.
> 
> 2. Their bearings are for conveyor indoor use (TT = metal sealed for fast dry conditions). RR are for outdoor dusty/ wet conditions (RS - rubber sealed).
> 
> 3. If their bearings ever go bad, you have to replace the entire roller because their end brackets are pressed into the bearings. Their design doesn't allow for you to replace their bearings. RR is designed to replace bearings because eventually, all bearings wear. We have rollers out there 15+ years old and still kicking strong.
> 
> 4. Closer roller to bed knife = better contour of turf. I agree. RR designed the roller to be the EXACT footprint as the front caster wheels. We assumed Tru Cut balanced their mower with their original design which is why we didn't put the roller closer to the bed knife. What you'll find with the Tru Cut roller is the mower is out of balance. You will absolutely experience 10x more "rear wheel spin outs" because the mower is now front heavy.
> 
> 5. RR is an exact replication of height, footprint, and adjustment as the stock caster wheels. You'll see in many of the pictures below, their brackets don't even align with their own stock caster wheels meaning your height is not the same. You can see how the RR bracket holes line up exactly with the stock caster wheels. The Tru Cut holes on their roller are way off.
> 
> This was my own experience when I first saw their roller 2 years ago. See the pictures below and hopefully we can get 2 -3 unbiased opinions posted online.
> 
> Black and Red Roller = Reel Rollers
> Unpainted = Tru Cut Roller
Click to expand...


----------



## Reelrollers

Luthersrose said:


> So I take it from this posting that dolphin outdoor power equipment doesn't carry tru-cut parts anymore? Does anyone know someplace else to buy parts? I've bought parts from them before and had good service.
> I need to replace the differential assembly on my P20. The teeth on the sprocket are worn down and the chain has too much play in it. I replaced the chain and had it snug. As soon as I turned it on and engaged the drive the chain become loose. I figure it's easier to replace the whole assembly than just the sprocket. I did that when I replaced the clutch assembly a few years back. Is that a correct assumption?
> Thanks.


We now have a Tru cuts parts page which has all the diagrams and parts listed in our site www.ReelRollers.com


----------



## SGrabs33

Reelrollers said:


> Luthersrose said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I take it from this posting that dolphin outdoor power equipment doesn't carry tru-cut parts anymore? Does anyone know someplace else to buy parts? I've bought parts from them before and had good service.
> I need to replace the differential assembly on my P20. The teeth on the sprocket are worn down and the chain has too much play in it. I replaced the chain and had it snug. As soon as I turned it on and engaged the drive the chain become loose. I figure it's easier to replace the whole assembly than just the sprocket. I did that when I replaced the clutch assembly a few years back. Is that a correct assumption?
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a Tru cuts parts page which has all the diagrams and parts listed in our site www.ReelRollers.com
Click to expand...

Very helpful! Those DolphinOPE diagrams were miserable!


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Reelrollers said:


> Luthersrose said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I take it from this posting that dolphin outdoor power equipment doesn't carry tru-cut parts anymore? Does anyone know someplace else to buy parts? I've bought parts from them before and had good service.
> I need to replace the differential assembly on my P20. The teeth on the sprocket are worn down and the chain has too much play in it. I replaced the chain and had it snug. As soon as I turned it on and engaged the drive the chain become loose. I figure it's easier to replace the whole assembly than just the sprocket. I did that when I replaced the clutch assembly a few years back. Is that a correct assumption?
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a Tru cuts parts page which has all the diagrams and parts listed in our site www.ReelRollers.com
Click to expand...

are you offering any Coupon codes to Forum members?


----------



## Reelrollers

Backyard Soldier said:


> Reelrollers said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Luthersrose said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I take it from this posting that dolphin outdoor power equipment doesn't carry tru-cut parts anymore? Does anyone know someplace else to buy parts? I've bought parts from them before and had good service.
> I need to replace the differential assembly on my P20. The teeth on the sprocket are worn down and the chain has too much play in it. I replaced the chain and had it snug. As soon as I turned it on and engaged the drive the chain become loose. I figure it's easier to replace the whole assembly than just the sprocket. I did that when I replaced the clutch assembly a few years back. Is that a correct assumption?
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> We now have a Tru cuts parts page which has all the diagrams and parts listed in our site www.ReelRollers.com
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> are you offering any Coupon codes to Forum members?
Click to expand...

No, I'm sorry. Was just tying to help fill the gap of accessing all Tru cut parts online. So many people have been asking us that we started to work with them to create a user friendly platform we are still improving.


----------



## Bermbum

Ugh. I'm having problems with the reel clutch slipping on my P20. The gap is adjusted appropriately. I just think it's worn. Anyone have experience replacing the clutch plate? Relatively simple? On the parts diagram it doesn't look like there is a lining between the plate and the sprocket. It would definitely be cheaper to just replace the reel clutch plate within the assembly but probably easier and quicker to just replace the whole assembly.


----------



## Ptb427

I bought a used C27 in the offseason and ran it a couple of weeks ago to scalp and it worked great. Wasn't cutting paper after that so I decided to backlap it and am having trouble getting it to cut paper. I think the first couple of attempts I was trying to rotate the reel down too much and had trouble spinning it after. Just backlaped again with less pressure between the reel and bedknife but still not cutting paper. Then I noticed it is starting to remove material from the piece above/behind the bedknife. Is this an issue, does this indicate I need a new bedknife? I was able to feel a raised lip on top of the bedknife edge and I believe it to have relatively low use on it. Also, any tips on how much pressure or how much to turn the cams for the reel when backlapping? Did a search and didn't really come up with many specifics on that. Picture of area around bedknife.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Ptb427 yes I'm guessing the bedknife is worn down. Are the faces of the REEL blades flat? Do you have a picture of the angle of the blades? It's possible that it could use a relief grind also.

There isn't much info on how much to turn the cams before backlapping. Usually just adjust them until they are making reasonable contact with the bedknife but you can still turn the REEL with one finger.


----------



## Ptb427

SGrabs33 said:


> @Ptb427 yes I'm guessing the bedknife is worn down. Are the faces of the REEL blades flat? Do you have a picture of the angle of the blades? It's possible that it could use a relief grind also.
> 
> There isn't much info on how much to turn the cams before backlapping. Usually just adjust them until they are making reasonable contact with the bedknife but you can still turn the REEL with one finger.


@SGrabs33 Thanks for the quick reply! Sounds like I will at least be getting a bedknife. Here are some pics of the reel, not sure if you can get a good idea of the angle or not but I can get some different ones if needed.

Thanks for the tips. I think when I get enough contact between the reel and bedknife, then I am getting too much contact/interference to spin it freely enough and this was making it difficult to determine how much to adjust the cams.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Ptb427 perfect pictures. There is no relief angle left on your REEL blades unfortunately. Check out the pic below. You see there are two angles on the front face of the blades. The top one is called the relief angle and it's purpose is so that there is not an overload of REEL to bedknife contact like you are noticing when you get it tight enough so that it cuts paper. Too much contact will cause extra strain on the engine and also on the clutches of the TruCut. The best thing to do would be to get it ground with a relief angle and a new bedknife. If you want to try and cut with it this year then back off the contact enough to where it's possibly cutting a thicker piece of paper like a business card, then get it ground over the winter. It might cut ok if you wait for the winter. Hard to say, you will just have to see if it's cutting the grass ok or if it's just bending it over.


----------



## Ptb427

@SGrabs33 I see what you're saying, makes sense now. After looking around the forum a little more I'm wondering if this could have been from the previous owner getting a spin grind on the reel?

I'll see if I can back it off and still cut. Either way, I will get a bedknife and check around and see if there is someone local that can do a relief grind.

Thanks for your quick responses and help explaining!


----------



## SGrabs33

Ptb427 said:


> @SGrabs33 I see what you're saying, makes sense now. After looking around the forum a little more I'm wondering if this could have been from the previous owner getting a spin grind on the reel?
> 
> I'll see if I can back it off and still cut. Either way, I will get a bedknife and check around and see if there is someone local that can do a relief grind.
> 
> Thanks for your quick responses and help explaining!


When the REELs are new they have a relief angle. Most likely the REEL hasn't been ground ever and the relief angle lessened over time with use and backlapping. When you get the REEL ground it will be spin ground and then have a relief angle added after. It's a two step process. Just some places don't do the second step.


----------



## Ptb427

SGrabs33 said:


> Ptb427 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @SGrabs33 I see what you're saying, makes sense now. After looking around the forum a little more I'm wondering if this could have been from the previous owner getting a spin grind on the reel?
> 
> I'll see if I can back it off and still cut. Either way, I will get a bedknife and check around and see if there is someone local that can do a relief grind.
> 
> Thanks for your quick responses and help explaining!
> 
> 
> 
> When the REELs are new they have a relief angle. Most likely the REEL hasn't been ground ever and the relief angle lessened over time with use and backlapping. When you get the REEL ground it will be spin ground and then have a relief angle added after. It's a two step process. Just some places don't do the second step.
Click to expand...

Ahh ok. That helps explain the the spin/relief. Thanks!


----------



## g-man

The relief on the reel also helps in the backlapping process. The lapping compound sits in this area in the back spin gets pushed into the bedknife to act as sand paper and polish the surfaces.

The relief is cut with a separate grinding wheel in a special machine. But once the reel is worn too much, you cant do it anymore and you will need to replace the reel. Looking at your image, I dont see a lot of distance between the edge of the reel and the web that holds the reel blades. I'm not experienced in TruCut, but it might need a reel replacement in the future. Like SGrabs33 says, get some light contact between the reel and the bedknife to get it to cut.


----------



## Ptb427

g-man said:


> The relief on the reel also helps in the backlapping process. The lapping compound sits in this area in the back spin gets pushed into the bedknife to act as sand paper and polish the surfaces.
> 
> The relief is cut with a separate grinding wheel in a special machine. But once the reel is worn too much, you cant do it anymore and you will need to replace the reel. Looking at your image, I dont see a lot of distance between the edge of the reel and the web that holds the reel blades. I'm not experienced in TruCut, but it might need a reel replacement in the future. Like SGrabs33 says, get some light contact between the reel and the bedknife to get it to cut.


Thanks for the insight! This gives me some things to research and to try.


----------



## TexasLawns

How often should you change the reel bearings? Also, how do you know they are bad?

The bearing on the right (as you look at the reel) oozes out grease when the reel is spinning. Certainly no mechanic but this would seem to me as a sign of a bad bearing. Additionally, when doing my spring sharpening I noticed that I could feel a vibration in the drill.

Thoughts?

Lastly, where is the best place to purchase tru cut parts?

Thank you!


----------



## SGrabs33

@TexasLawns no designated time on how often you have to change them. I would say they need changing when you can grab the REEL and move it left/right or forward/back. Then you would know they have started to go. Hope that makes sense.

Check to see if you have a dealer close to you for parts. Also @Reelrollers website is up and running to buy them online if that's easier.


----------



## NClawnnut78

Well tru-cut owners I have gone back to the dark side and went back to a rotary mower but my yard type changed to tall fescue. I will be doing a tall fescue to Tiff Tuff conversion over the years with plugs and sod. NC summers get warm and the yard gets alot of sun so it might be a 2 to 3 year conversion in the front. I want to thank you for all your advice to take care of my tru-cut H25.


----------



## bzauc1990

Hi everyone - long time lurker but first time poster here. I picked up a used Tru-Cut P20 this weekend and am replacing the carb as the existing one was super gummed up and the engine won't stay running. I mistakenly took off the throttle assembly during the disassembly process and now can't figure out where a few things connect to. Would someone with a GX engine mind sending a few photos of the throttle piece on the engine block? I found this photo online but if I put the throttle cable in the hole specified, it slips out (through/under) at certain points so I find it hard to believe that that's the correct placement.

There's also a spring (none of the ones pictured, it starts under the gas tank) that I haven't found a home for...

Rookie mistake not taking pictures of everything before I started!


----------



## SGrabs33

I think if you flip the throttle cable holder the other way it may stay. You can kinda see that extra spring in this pic too.


----------



## bzauc1990

Thanks @SGrabs33 for the tip! I tried a few different things and the positioning that I get the easiest and most reliable throttle movement from is pictured below. Do you anticipate any issues from using the right hole vs. the left? The spring I was asking about is circled so thanks for helping me find its home.

Is the "Stop" position supposed to be functional? I can't move the throttle handle into Stop and when the throttle is at "Slow", there's no more room for movement on the actuator.

"Choke"



"F"



"S" (but not Stop)


----------



## jpos34

Looking to buy my first reel mower, found this on CL about an hour away from me. Do you think its a good deal or not. They are asking 175$


----------



## SGrabs33

@jpos34 the roller is worth $150 so I'd say as long as it's running and cutting it should be a good deal!


----------



## Rammy1546

@jpos34 Where did you find that? Been looking on Craigslist for some time now for a used Trucut. I'm out of bham as well. I would be interested since it has the roller but I am huge Honda guy.


----------



## njoy1389

Anybody put a 10 blade reel on their 20" homeowner?

I mowed about half the summer with a john deere 220b last year and my grass did get much thicker. Did get rid of the JD due not being super mechanically inclined and all the necessary maintenance it needs regularly. I'm not sure if it was the weight, reel count as it was an 11 or the groove front roller than may it a better cut. May have been all three.

I have a 7 blade tru cut with solid front roller, which cuts good, but I feel that it could cut better. Towards end of last summer it started to float on the thicker grass... It also does seem to cut on one end well, looks like it leaves a tire track, so just a small strip. I've tried overlapping more on the passes as well. I did have it relief ground and new bedknife last summer and it does cut paper..... So my options i'm playing with in my head are: get the grooved front roller and see if that helps or upgrade to a 10 blade reel or do both (which is kinda out of the budget.)


----------



## jpos34

Rammy1546 said:


> @jpos34 Where did you find that? Been looking on Craigslist for some time now for a used Trucut. I'm out of bham as well. I would be interested since it has the roller but I am huge Honda guy.


I found it on CL but the person won't respond back today after telling them I would come get it


----------



## SGrabs33

​


njoy1389 said:


> Anybody put a 10 blade reel on their 20" homeowner?
> 
> I mowed about half the summer with a john deere 220b last year and my grass did get much thicker. Did get rid of the JD due not being super mechanically inclined and all the necessary maintenance it needs regularly. I'm not sure if it was the weight, reel count as it was an 11 or the groove front roller than may it a better cut. May have been all three.
> 
> I have a 7 blade tru cut with solid front roller, which cuts good, but I feel that it could cut better. Towards end of last summer it started to float on the thicker grass... It also does seem to cut on one end well, looks like it leaves a tire track, so just a small strip. I've tried overlapping more on the passes as well. I did have it relief ground and new bedknife last summer and it does cut paper..... So my options i'm playing with in my head are: get the grooved front roller and see if that helps or upgrade to a 10 blade reel or do both (which is kinda out of the budget.)


How y'all are you cutting? The extra blades shouldn't make too much of a difference if your not cutting in the lowest few holes of the TruCut range.

I did put on a 10 blade on my first ever REEL that I bought used. I don't think it did too much for me as I was still cutting around .5-1". The grooved roller from @Reelrollers should help some with the mower floating.


----------



## Rammy1546

@jpos34 Sounds about right. Maybe he had second thoughts about selling!


----------



## njoy1389

@SGrabs33 cutting around 1/2"...The roller is the cheaper option so always down for that. That's kinda what I was thinking and leaning towards.Thanks.


----------



## SGrabs33

Fun project for the night!


----------



## Coach8

I looked through the thread, and may have missed if this has already been posted. What's the best method for changing the oil on a 27" with Honda GX120 4.0 Engine? The set up for this doesn't seem ideal. Also, how much oil does it generally take?

I also seem to have a little bit of surging in the engine going on. Any ideas on what I should check for that?


----------



## smurg

Coach8 said:


> I looked through the thread, and may have missed if this has already been posted. What's the best method for changing the oil on a 27" with Honda GX120 4.0 Engine? The set up for this doesn't seem ideal. Also, how much oil does it generally take?
> 
> I also seem to have a little bit of surging in the engine going on. Any ideas on what I should check for that?


Take out the plug in the back and slightly tilt it back until empty. Put Plug back in. Use a long funnel and place new oil in front plug location.


----------



## Coach8

I only saw a plug in the front. I will look again tomorrow.


----------



## njoy1389

The back left wheel on my tru cut has has some play in it. I can move that whole assembly side to side on the axel shaft. Wheel also wobbles a bit. I have video can't figure out how to post. Could possibly email or text it to somebody if you had a good idea. Basically trying to decide what parts need to be replaced, maybe won't really know until I take it apart .


----------



## SGrabs33

njoy1389 said:


> The back left wheel on my tru cut has has some play in it. I can move that whole assembly side to side on the axel shaft. Wheel also wobbles a bit. I have video can't figure out how to post. Could possibly email or text it to somebody if you had a good idea. Basically trying to decide what parts need to be replaced, maybe won't really know until I take it apart .


Back left when facing the reel from the front?


----------



## njoy1389

@SGrabs33 Back right in that case. Left if you are standing behind it operating it.


----------



## SGrabs33

njoy1389 said:


> @SGrabs33 Back right in that case. Left if you are standing behind it operating it.


This roll pin isn't supposed to be sticking out like that. Can you see if it goes all the way trough to the other side or if it's inching its way out. That may be causing your issue.


----------



## njoy1389

@SGrabs33 sorry forgot to mention I already started exploring. I already took the snap ring off and knocked the roll pin out on that side....the other side is stuck, not pressing as I don't know next step once I get it out....

Roll pin did appear to be position correctly before I punched it out


----------



## EricsLawnscapes

I have a TruCut and some of the prices mentioned here are a steal! However, one thing I don't like about them is they are HEAVY and I wish the wheels were wider and less aggressive to support the weight better. Have to wait until the lawn is really dry or you will put small ruts in lawn


----------



## hitmonchau

Local guy is selling a Tru-Cut C25 for $1,150. Seems a bit high but it looks to be in good condition. No rust apparent in the pictures but I have not seen it in person. Any idea on the price, seems a bit high.


----------



## cnet24

@hitmonchau seems to be a little high, but I'm only speaking from prices I have seen locally in Atlanta. If it looks to be in better condition, it's going to demand a higher price point. When I purchased my Trucut, I paid $1,950 which is much higher than others are selling in Atlanta. However, this one was used only 3 times after being purchased new and had some additional features I was looking for. So yes, paid much more than normal, but only because of how new it was.

Post some pictures and I'm sure others will be willing to give their perspective.


----------



## hitmonchau

cnet24 said:


> @hitmonchau seems to be a little high, but I'm only speaking from prices I have seen locally in Atlanta. If it looks to be in better condition, it's going to demand a higher price point. When I purchased my Trucut, I paid $1,950 which is much higher than others are selling in Atlanta. However, this one was used only 3 times after being purchased new and had some additional features I was looking for. So yes, paid much more than normal, but only because of how new it was.
> 
> Post some pictures and I'm sure others will be willing to give their perspective.


Here are a couple of pictures:


----------



## cnet24

@hitmonchau things I like:

-Honda Engine
-Tires are great condition (these are expensive to replace)
-Front Roller instead of casters (this is an upgrade that costs more money)
-Reel looks to have plenty of life left

Ask for pics of the reel and bedknife and last service date.

Also important to note this is a starting price- you can always negotiate down.


----------



## hitmonchau

Looks like it sold today, oh well. Thanks for looking.


----------



## Quitplayingcrabgrass

I recently inherited a p-20. Bedknife and bedknife holder were detached (and in rough shape).

Anyways bought a new holder and bedknife but need to know the correct bolts and nuts etc to buy. I've had some trouble finding the best part list and just want to make sure I'm doing it right. Only need the pieces that attach the bedknife holder to mower.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## SGrabs33

Quitplayingcrabgrass said:


> I recently inherited a p-20. Bedknife and bedknife holder were detached (and in rough shape).
> 
> Anyways bought a new holder and bedknife but need to know the correct bolts and nuts etc to buy. I've had some trouble finding the best part list and just want to make sure I'm doing it right. Only need the pieces that attach the bedknife holder to mower.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Looks like number #46 maybe?

https://reelrollers.com/product-category/tru-cut-replacement-parts/tru-cut-20/reel-assembly-20/


----------



## Mister Bill

Quitplayingcrabgrass said:


> I recently inherited a p-20. Bedknife and bedknife holder were detached (and in rough shape).
> 
> Anyways bought a new holder and bedknife but need to know the correct bolts and nuts etc to buy. I've had some trouble finding the best part list and just want to make sure I'm doing it right. Only need the pieces that attach the bedknife holder to mower.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I just installed a new reel, bed knife, an holder a couple of weeks ago and went through the same. There are six shoulder bolts and six lock washers, no nuts. The holder is threaded for the bolts. The bolts have a 1/8" shoulder that aligns the knife holder to the mower frame and are not a standard hardware item.

In looking through my notes, I believe the bolt number is TC90396, but I have already discarded the bag that had the part number, so double check. I see you are in Atlanta, if you are so inclined, call Adam Johnson at Howard Brothers in Duluth. He cross referenced everything I needed from the serial/model number and every part he sent was the correct one for my mower.

I also found the numerous parts lists floating around on the web are not always correct for the various models. Keep in mind many of the parts between the H, P, and C models are not interchangeable and the parts lists do not always correspond correctly.

Hope this helps.


----------



## SGrabs33

Mister Bill said:


> Quitplayingcrabgrass said:
> 
> 
> 
> I recently inherited a p-20. Bedknife and bedknife holder were detached (and in rough shape).
> 
> Anyways bought a new holder and bedknife but need to know the correct bolts and nuts etc to buy. I've had some trouble finding the best part list and just want to make sure I'm doing it right. Only need the pieces that attach the bedknife holder to mower.
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> I just installed a new reel, bed knife, an holder a couple of weeks ago and went through the same. There are six shoulder bolts and six lock washers, no nuts. The holder is threaded for the bolts. The bolts have a 1/8" shoulder that aligns the knife holder to the mower frame and are not a standard hardware item.
> 
> In looking through my notes, I believe the bolt number is TC90396, but I have already discarded the bag that had the part number, so double check. I see you are in Atlanta, if you are so inclined, call Adam Johnson at Howard Brothers in Duluth. He cross referenced everything I needed from the serial/model number and every part he sent was the correct one for my mower.
> 
> I also found the numerous parts lists floating around on the web are not always correct for the various models. Keep in mind many of the parts between the H, P, and C models are not interchangeable and the parts lists do not always correspond correctly.
> 
> Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

 :thumbup:


----------



## 95mmrenegade

EricsLawnscapes said:


> I have a TruCut and some of the prices mentioned here are a steal! However, one thing I don't like about them is they are HEAVY and I wish the wheels were wider and less aggressive to support the weight better. Have to wait until the lawn is really dry or you will put small ruts in lawn


Start putting air 8 down.


----------



## Quitplayingcrabgrass

Thanks for all of the responses folks! Can't wait to get this thing hummin.


----------



## mre_man_76

95mmrenegade said:


> EricsLawnscapes said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a TruCut and some of the prices mentioned here are a steal! However, one thing I don't like about them is they are HEAVY and I wish the wheels were wider and less aggressive to support the weight better. Have to wait until the lawn is really dry or you will put small ruts in lawn
> 
> 
> 
> Start putting air 8 down.
Click to expand...

☝🏿
This


----------



## njoy1389

can somebody link the 1" wrenches they use to adjust clutch? I know you could previously get them from dolphin. I did look through reel rollers and did not see them offered. Id imagine just about any thin 1" wrench would work, just seeing what everybody else is using that works before I buy. Thanks.


----------



## SGrabs33

njoy1389 said:


> can somebody link the 1" wrenches they use to adjust clutch? I know you could previously get them from dolphin. I did look through reel rollers and did not see them offered. Id imagine just about any thin 1" wrench would work, just seeing what everybody else is using that works before I buy. Thanks.


I did not see them on the website either. Honestly, they're not super easy to use. They're so thin and almost hard to handle. And sometimes the jam nut is on that really tight. I would recommend using a regular one inch wrench and putting a 2 x 4 or something similar in the reel to loosen the jam nut. It doesn't sound pretty but it works and it doesn't do any damage.


----------



## njoy1389

@SGrabs33 gotcha, so you are blocking the reel and just using one wrench?


----------



## SGrabs33

njoy1389 said:


> @SGrabs33 gotcha, so you are blocking the reel and just using one wrench?


That's right. Especially if that jam that is super tight.


----------



## Coach8

njoy1389 said:


> can somebody link the 1" wrenches they use to adjust clutch? I know you could previously get them from dolphin. I did look through reel rollers and did not see them offered. Id imagine just about any thin 1" wrench would work, just seeing what everybody else is using that works before I buy. Thanks.


I got my wrenches and all my other Tru-Cut parts from Smith Distributing here in OKC. Always been easy to work with and helpful. However, since I am close enough to just go pick up my stuff at their place, I'm not sure about their shipping policies, etc. http://www.smithdistributingcompany.com/


----------



## njoy1389

@Coach8 appreciate it. I'll look into it.


----------



## Mister Bill

njoy1389 said:


> can somebody link the 1" wrenches they use to adjust clutch? I know you could previously get them from dolphin. I did look through reel rollers and did not see them offered. Id imagine just about any thin 1" wrench would work, just seeing what everybody else is using that works before I buy. Thanks.


As already stated, the wrenches are not a necessity. However, if you want them or any other part, any local dealer can order them for you. Here is one listed for your area.

https://www.smithoutdoorpowerequipment.com/aboutus


----------



## njoy1389

@Mister Bill appreciate it as well. I've tried to do business with those guys a couple of times. Terrible experience with workmanship as well as customer service.


----------



## Mister Bill

njoy1389 said:


> @Mister Bill appreciate it as well. I've tried to do business with those guys a couple of times. Terrible experience with workmanship as well as customer service.


Ooops, that wasn't mentioned on their website. :lol:


----------



## Coach8

I have a little play in the reel on my 27". I can move it a bit from right to left by hand. Is this a bearing issue? And if it is, how difficult of a fix is it?


----------



## Mister Bill

Coach8 said:


> I have a little play in the reel on my 27". I can move it a bit from right to left by hand. Is this a bearing issue? And if it is, how difficult of a fix is it?


How much is a bit? Should not feel any movement, so most likely, yes. How difficult depends on your mechanical ability.  Not difficult at all if you have the required tools and basic mechanical skillset. About 20-30 minutes to tear it down and an hour or so to put it all back together and set the reel to bed knife.


----------



## Coach8

@Mister Bill It moves a fair bit. I would guess at least a 1/16-1/8 inch. And I will be the first to admit that I am not the most mechanically inclined person. Can you describe the process and what tools will be needed?


----------



## Mister Bill

Coach8 said:


> @Mister Bill It moves a fair bit. I would guess at least a 1/16-1/8 inch. And I will be the first to admit that I am not the most mechanically inclined person. Can you describe the process and what tools will be needed?


If it's not moving fore and aft, I wouldn't be immediately concerned with a 1/16"-1/8" sideways. Split in half it's actually only moving 1/32-1/16" each direction assuming the center of the movement is where the reel should ideally sit. With that said, it should not be moving at all, but parts do wear, and with wear, comes acceptable movement, aka wear tolerances. The question, therefore, is how much wear tolerance is acceptable before a rebuild is required. Without actually seeing the mower, I would venture to say it still has some life left assuming all else is in order. Keep it properly greased and inspect frequently for further wear would be my suggestion with plans to repair it in the off season.

To repair, basic mechanics hand tools, an inexpensive bearing puller, and a method to press new bearings onto the reel shaft (not as difficult as it sounds, quite easy actually).

Remove the reel chain guard, reel chain, front roller/caster assembly, bed knife holder, sprocket nut, sprocket/key, bearing retainer ring bolts on both sides, pull right bearing retainer. At this point, the reel is ready to be removed. Slide reel assembly to the right, then drop the left side of reel down and outward to give enough clearance to remove the right side of the reel from the mower frame. Pull left bearing retainer. The bearings should be a snug fit coming out of and into the retainers and may need gentle persuasion with emphasis on gentle. Once reel assembly is removed from the mower, pull old reel bearings from the reel shaft, clean and inspect reel and all of the removed parts to ensure they are serviceable. Reverse the process to reassemble.

Hope this helps.


----------



## SGrabs33

Mister Bill said:


> Coach8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Mister Bill It moves a fair bit. I would guess at least a 1/16-1/8 inch. And I will be the first to admit that I am not the most mechanically inclined person. Can you describe the process and what tools will be needed?
> 
> 
> 
> If it's not moving fore and aft, I wouldn't be immediately concerned with a 1/16"-1/8" sideways. Split in half it's actually only moving 1/32-1/16" each direction assuming the center of the movement is where the reel should ideally sit. With that said, it should not be moving at all, but parts do wear, and with wear, comes acceptable movement, aka wear tolerances. The question, therefore, is how much wear tolerance is acceptable before a rebuild is required. Without actually seeing the mower, I would venture to say it still has some life left assuming all else is in order. Keep it properly greased and inspect frequently for further wear would be my suggestion with plans to repair it in the off season.
> 
> To repair, basic mechanics hand tools, an inexpensive bearing puller, and a method to press new bearings onto the reel shaft (not as difficult as it sounds, quite easy actually).
> 
> Remove the reel chain guard, reel chain, front roller/caster assembly, bed knife holder, sprocket nut, sprocket/key, bearing retainer ring bolts on both sides, pull right bearing retainer. At this point, the reel is ready to be removed. Slide reel assembly to the right, then drop the left side of reel down and outward to give enough clearance to remove the right side of the reel from the mower frame. Pull left bearing retainer. The bearings should be a snug fit coming out of and into the retainers and may need gentle persuasion with emphasis on gentle. Once reel assembly is removed from the mower, pull old reel bearings from the reel shaft, clean and inspect reel and all of the removed parts to ensure they are serviceable. Reverse the process to reassemble.
> 
> Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Literally just did this two days ago.

Only thing I didn't do above was remove the bedknife holder. Didn't think it was necessary.


----------



## Mister Bill

SGrabs33 said:


> Literally just did this two days ago.
> 
> Only thing I didn't do above was remove the bedknife holder. Didn't think it was necessary.


You are correct, it doesn't need to be removed for the reel to clear. I removed it to replace the knife before I removed the reel and reinstalled it after reel assembly. I type much faster than I can think, and I am a very slow thinker. :thumbup:


----------



## Sooner_37

Are these the bolts to loosen to move the engine? My chain has some slack and I wanted to tighten it up first before I replaced the chains.


----------



## SGrabs33

Hulk37 said:


> Are these the bolts to loosen to move the engine? My chain has some slack and I wanted to tighten it up first before I replaced the chains.


They are. There is 4 total.


----------



## Sooner_37

SGrabs33 said:


> Hulk37 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are these the bolts to loosen to move the engine? My chain has some slack and I wanted to tighten it up first before I replaced the chains.
> 
> 
> 
> They are. There is 4 total.
Click to expand...

I loosened up all 4 but had trouble getting the motor to budge. Should it take quite a bit of force?


----------



## SGrabs33

Hulk37 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hulk37 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are these the bolts to loosen to move the engine? My chain has some slack and I wanted to tighten it up first before I replaced the chains.
> 
> 
> 
> They are. There is 4 total.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I loosened up all 4 but had trouble getting the motor to budge. Should it take quite a bit of force?
Click to expand...

It's probably just been sitting in that position for a while. Take a short 2x4 and a hammer and give it a little tap. Make sure that there is room on the bolt holes to slide, or if it is already maxed out. Possible there are other bolts on the side of the engine near the shaft that are holding it also. Those bolts hold the handle in place but you might need to loosen them some for the engine to move.


----------



## Coach8

Going to try my first backlapping today. Do you guys tighten the bolts all the way down when backlapping? I was watching a video online (Doc's) that mentioned only hand tightening the bolts on each side during backlapping so the reel can float a little more freely and basically take off the material where needed. What has worked well for you guys?


----------



## Mister Bill

Coach8 said:


> Going to try my first backlapping today. Do you guys tighten the bolts all the way down when backlapping? I was watching a video online (Doc's) that mentioned only hand tightening the bolts on each side during backlapping so the reel can float a little more freely and basically take off the material where needed. What has worked well for you guys?


What has worked well for me is not listening to YouTube stars. YMMV.


----------



## SGrabs33

Coach8 said:


> Going to try my first backlapping today. Do you guys tighten the bolts all the way down when backlapping? I was watching a video online (Doc's) that mentioned only hand tightening the bolts on each side during backlapping so the reel can float a little more freely and basically take off the material where needed. What has worked well for you guys?


Could work. Usually I keep them reasonably tight once I get it set where I like it. Everyone kind of has there own method.


----------



## Coach8

SGrabs33 said:


> Coach8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Going to try my first backlapping today. Do you guys tighten the bolts all the way down when backlapping? I was watching a video online (Doc's) that mentioned only hand tightening the bolts on each side during backlapping so the reel can float a little more freely and basically take off the material where needed. What has worked well for you guys?
> 
> 
> 
> Could work. Usually I keep them reasonably tight once I get it set where I like it. Everyone kind of has there own method.
Click to expand...

Also, what kind of drills are you guys using? I tried my 19.2 volt battery drill on it at the highest torque setting and it barely spun the reel a few times and then wouldn't spin it any more. It has light enough contact where i can spin it with 1 finger and is even across the bedknife. Would a corded drill be a better choice, and if so, any recommendations?


----------



## Coach8

Mister Bill said:


> Coach8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Going to try my first backlapping today. Do you guys tighten the bolts all the way down when backlapping? I was watching a video online (Doc's) that mentioned only hand tightening the bolts on each side during backlapping so the reel can float a little more freely and basically take off the material where needed. What has worked well for you guys?
> 
> 
> 
> What has worked well for me is not listening to YouTube stars. YMMV.
Click to expand...

 :lol: That's why I'm asking you guys.


----------



## Jeff20

Hey Coach8, Just did my 1st back lap yesterday. I Adjusted the reel to where I could barely hear contact. Worked well for me.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Coach8 harbor freight special corded drill will work fine. One that has a slower speed to it as you don't need to spin fast.


----------



## 95mmrenegade

I use a 1/2" high torque corded drill. Works well.


----------



## Coach8

Thanks guys. Looks like I will be making a Home Depot/Lowe's run in the morning.


----------



## Mister Bill

Coach8 said:


> Mister Bill said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coach8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Going to try my first backlapping today. Do you guys tighten the bolts all the way down when backlapping? I was watching a video online (Doc's) that mentioned only hand tightening the bolts on each side during backlapping so the reel can float a little more freely and basically take off the material where needed. What has worked well for you guys?
> 
> 
> 
> What has worked well for me is not listening to YouTube stars. YMMV.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> :lol: That's why I'm asking you guys.
Click to expand...

You are a smart man. :lol:

Yep, as stated above, set reel to bed knife so there is light contact across the reel to where the reel still spins freely with your fingers. A floating reel is not what you want. :roll:

When back lapping, it only takes a small amount of compound across each blade. Spin the reel backwards slowly until you no longer hear the honing action of the blades against the knife. This should take less than 2-3 minutes. Test for contact/sharpness, repeat if necessary. Some people apply the compound by the brush full and continually add it while back lapping for 10-20 minutes. Don't listen to those guys either. :lol:


----------



## Mister Bill

Coach8 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Coach8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Going to try my first backlapping today. Do you guys tighten the bolts all the way down when backlapping? I was watching a video online (Doc's) that mentioned only hand tightening the bolts on each side during backlapping so the reel can float a little more freely and basically take off the material where needed. What has worked well for you guys?
> 
> 
> 
> Could work. Usually I keep them reasonably tight once I get it set where I like it. Everyone kind of has there own method.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Also, what kind of drills are you guys using? I tried my 19.2 volt battery drill on it at the highest torque setting and it barely spun the reel a few times and then wouldn't spin it any more. It has light enough contact where i can spin it with 1 finger and is even across the bedknife. Would a corded drill be a better choice, and if so, any recommendations?
Click to expand...

I use a 3/8" 20V Dewalt cordless. I've not had any issues with it not being powerful enough. Whatever you use, you'll want variable or low speed.


----------



## AdamH

I am struggling with properly adjusting the reel to bedknife. I am able to cut paper along the whole length except for about 1-2 inches on the right side(when facing the reel). There is too much clearance. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


----------



## SGrabs33

AdamH said:


> I am struggling with properly adjusting the reel to bedknife. I am able to cut paper along the whole length except for about 1-2 inches on the right side(when facing the reel). There is too much clearance. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.


What happens if you adjust it tighter only on the right side?


----------



## AdamH

SGrabs33 said:


> AdamH said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am struggling with properly adjusting the reel to bedknife. I am able to cut paper along the whole length except for about 1-2 inches on the right side(when facing the reel). There is too much clearance. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> What happens if you adjust it tighter only on the right side?
Click to expand...

I guess my question should have been, how do I tighten just the right side? I am still learning. Thanks.


----------



## Coach8

AdamH said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AdamH said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am struggling with properly adjusting the reel to bedknife. I am able to cut paper along the whole length except for about 1-2 inches on the right side(when facing the reel). There is too much clearance. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> What happens if you adjust it tighter only on the right side?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I guess my question should have been, how do I tighten just the right side? I am still learning. Thanks.
Click to expand...

There are 3 bolts around the cam with 2 punch holes on each side of the reel. If you loosen the 3 bolts on each side then you can either use the spanner wrench for the Tru-Cut, or a hammer and a punch to barely rotate that cam on each side. This is what adjusts the reel to the bedknife. It doesn't take much movement to make the adjustments. It is a frustrating process at first, but it becomes easier as you learn by trial and error. Then use the tightening sequence posted by J_Nick earlier in this thread to tighten it down otherwise you will throw it back out of adjustment.


----------



## Coach8

Here is the tightening sequence that J_Nick posted after talking to TruCut.

I'll be talking left and right side, this is if you are standing in front of your mower.

1. All bolts hand tight
2. Right side tighten bolts at 5 & 9 o'clock
3. Left side tighten bolts at 9 & 2 o'clock
4. Right side tighten bolt at 2 o'clock
5. Left side tighten bolt at 5 o'clock


----------



## AdamH

Thank you gentlemen.


----------



## SGrabs33

AdamH said:


> Thank you gentlemen.


Sorry. Didn't mean for that to come off badly if it sounded negative.

@Coach8 got you the perfect answer :thumbup:


----------



## Coach8

Ordered a drill tonight as mine is old and not cutting it for backlapping. Also ordered a grease gun so I can start greasing my own zerks. @SGrabs33 I ordered the same one you mentioned earlier in the thread, even though a lot of reviews mentioned having issues with it leaking as well as getting the coupler off the zerks (or even pulling them out). Have you had any issues with that and did you find the need for any other couplers to grease the Trucut 27"?


----------



## SGrabs33

Coach8 said:


> Ordered a drill tonight as mine is old and not cutting it for backlapping. Also ordered a grease gun so I can start greasing my own zerks. @SGrabs33 I ordered the same one you mentioned earlier in the thread, even though a lot of reviews mentioned having issues with it leaking as well as getting the coupler off the zerks (or even pulling them out). Have you had any issues with that and did you find the need for any other couplers to grease the Trucut 27"?


Nice! Yeah that grease gun has done a descent job. The lockNlube might be a good investment. I haven't got one yet myself but have heard good things. Yeah, I have had that grease gun pull off a few zerk fittings on me. You can adjust the hold on the coupler so probably just adjust that pretty loose.


----------



## Coach8

SGrabs33 said:


> Coach8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered a drill tonight as mine is old and not cutting it for backlapping. Also ordered a grease gun so I can start greasing my own zerks. @SGrabs33 I ordered the same one you mentioned earlier in the thread, even though a lot of reviews mentioned having issues with it leaking as well as getting the coupler off the zerks (or even pulling them out). Have you had any issues with that and did you find the need for any other couplers to grease the Trucut 27"?
> 
> 
> 
> Nice! Yeah that grease gun has done a descent job. The lockNlube might be a good investment. I haven't got one yet myself but have heard good things. Yeah, I have had that grease gun pull off a few zerk fittings on me. You can adjust the hold on the coupler so probably just adjust that pretty loose.
Click to expand...

Yeah, after reading the reviews, I will probably adjust the coupler a little looser before I use it. I just can't justify $85 for the LockNLube considering this is all I will be using it for. Were the zerks hard to put back in when you did pull them off? And were you able to get to all the zerks on the C-27 with the provided coupler?


----------



## SGrabs33

@Coach8 only 30 for the lockNlube. But yes, you should be able to get to all the 27" zerks with the one provided. The ones that are harder to get are on the 20" model.


----------



## Coach8

I meant $85 for the LockNLube Grease Gun, not just the coupler. Yeah, I will see how frustrating it is to get off the zerks when I have it loosened up and if it is, I may get a different coupler for it. Thanks for the help as always!


----------



## evergreek

Hey guys - trying to lube the following zerks on an h20 but it seems they are impossible to get to with the grease fun I bought off amazon. Are there any tricks!?


----------



## SGrabs33

@evergreek tire one is tough. Might need the needle grease fitting for that. The reel one you should be able to get if you lay the mower on its back. There are two fitting for that retainer and it's easiest to get to the one on the underside.


----------



## AdamH

How much life do you think this reel has left? How about the relief? Thanks for the help!


----------



## SGrabs33

@AdamH there is no relief left at all. Not positive how much life is left. Maybe one more grind with relief. Those are about the baldest tires I've seen before on a TC.


----------



## NClawnnut78

get the flat 90 degree from lock and lube. It is worth the money and it goes on and comes off easy. Trust me Tru-cut reels are grease hogs. and those zerks will need to be greased every month during the growing season. You will thank me later. the soft inner part of the lock and lube flat 90 makes it a breeze to get it on and off and with the PSI it will shoot grease in there with no problem. I got the larger main coupler and it was from a dealer here in my area. You can order online cheaper. I wanted to support our local stores. 
for greasing your zerks those are the only two tools you need....and they work easy on the reel zerks both sides top and bottom. 
I would give you mine free of charge but don't know if the wife is going to allow me to buy an allett or swardman later so holding on to it while im converting from tall fescue to tiff tuff bermuda. Im using a 
toro prostripe 560 right now during the conversion.

https://locknlube.com/collections/locknlube-grease-coupler/products/locknlube-grease-coupler-xl

https://locknlube.com/collections/all/products/push-on-90-grease-coupler


----------



## Jeff20

SGrabs33 said:


> @evergreek tire one is tough. Might need the needle grease fitting for that. The reel one you should be able to get if you lay the mower on its back. There are two fitting for that retainer and it's easiest to get to the one on the underside.


I use a needle for the bottom zerk on the reel. It's not straight in, but I was able to make it work, Horrible design.


----------



## Mister Bill

evergreek said:


> Hey guys - trying to lube the following zerks on an h20 but it seems they are impossible to get to with the grease fun I bought off amazon. Are there any tricks!?


It's probably camera angle, but the one behind the tire on mine appears to be higher than yours in the photo. If I line up a groove in the tire to the zerk and then place the grease coupler in the groove of the tire and press down hard enough, I can get it to go onto the zerk and take grease. The one on the reel I can get from the bottom without any adapters as stated above.


----------



## evergreek

Thanks guys! Appreciate it!


----------



## mre_man_76

Anyone know where I can find a used catcher for the c27?


----------



## Coach8

Anybody else notice their TC cutting much lower than the height notches say? I scalped on the 3rd notch this year and was taking it down to the dirt. I mowed today on the 6th notch, and after mowing, I was curious as to the height. Took a ruler and measured the grass in multiple parts of the yard and it was right around .5 inch. I don't see how you could mow at the lowest notch. It would be like fraze mowing with my Tru-Cut.


----------



## SGrabs33

Coach8 said:


> Anybody else notice their TC cutting much lower than the height notches say? I scalped on the 3rd notch this year and was taking it down to the dirt. I mowed today on the 6th notch, and after mowing, I was curious as to the height. Took a ruler and measured the grass in multiple parts of the yard and it was right around .5 inch. I don't see how you could mow at the lowest notch. It would be like fraze mowing with my Tru-Cut.


Agreed, the heights aren't really too accurate. Your bedknife would drag before you start fraze mowing :lol: the heights are based on a level surface so your yard would have to be super flat for them to be close. Also the added roller can change the height as the listed heights are usually based off of the caster wheels.


----------



## Arnezkanizzle

I'm the new owner of a C27, and I'm having some carb issues on the GX160. I'm able to start it and turn off the choke and it will idle fine and then die after a couple minutes. I also noticed that it would surge at full throttle. I have replaced the fuel filter, air filter, and spark plug which did not remedy the problem. So, I took apart the carb and cleaned it with carb cleaner, but that did not help either. Any ideas? Anyone have a link to a replacement carb they have had good luck with? I'm inclined to just buy an OEM from jacks small engine.


----------



## TNTurf

Arnezkanizzle said:


> I'm the new owner of a C27, and I'm having some carb issues on the GX160. I'm able to start it and turn off the choke and it will idle fine and then die after a couple minutes. I also noticed that it would surge at full throttle. I have replaced the fuel filter, air filter, and spark plug which did not remedy the problem. So, I took apart the carb and cleaned it with carb cleaner, but that did not help either. Any ideas? Anyone have a link to a replacement carb they have had good luck with? I'm inclined to just buy an OEM from jacks small engine.


You can get carb cleaner, take it apart and soak it or like you said order one from Jacks. The new one will be the easiest option. It sounds like your jet is clogged but might as well swap since they sell pretty cheap.


----------



## cnet24

Does anyone know the Zerk sizes on the Tru-Cut? I had one fall out and need to replace it.


----------



## crstude

cnet24 said:


> Does anyone know the Zerk sizes on the Tru-Cut? I had one fall out and need to replace it.


Does 3/16 sound right? I saw that on a parts list #9

http://www.smithdistributingcompany.com/pdf/tru_cut/C25_C27.pdf


----------



## cnet24

Looks right, thanks @crstude


----------



## BubbaGrumpus

First mow since having it serviced.. cut like a champ.

Found the ground for the electrical box.



Think it looks like a new reel? Hoping I can save it.. taking it in Tuesday. Man I can't afford a $400 reel right now..


----------



## drewwitt

I have a P20. Tires are almost bald. Has anyone attempted a tire replacement on these suckers?


----------



## wartee

BubbaGrumpus said:


> First mow since having it serviced.. cut like a champ.
> 
> Found the ground for the electrical box.
> 
> 
> 
> Think it looks like a new reel? Hoping I can save it.. taking it in Tuesday. Man I can't afford a $400 reel right now..


I've saved a few reels with similar damage. Reels with steel spiders like yours I was usually able to bend the blade into shape enough that I could run my relief grinder on it. In a couple of cases I had to use an angle grinder on the damaged section just to give enough clearance so I could sharpen the rest of the reel. If the weld holding the blade to the spider is broken, a good shop should be able to tack weld it back or just grind off enough so it can't catch on the bedknife.


----------



## wartee

drewwitt said:


> I have a P20. Tires are almost bald. Has anyone attempted a tire replacement on these suckers?


I did it...once. About 20 years ago. I quoted $200 for labor and it wound up not being near enough for my time. You might find it easier just cutting the axle in two and replacing it.


----------



## Sycamore

drewwitt said:


> I have a P20. Tires are almost bald. Has anyone attempted a tire replacement on these suckers?


Long time reader, first time poster. This thread has been great getting to know my Tru-cut and reference for servicing.

I have an H20 and recently rebuilt including tire replacement. I fooled around with the spring pins pinning the hubs to the axle for several evenings trying to remove. The one on the drive side came out no problem, but the one on the other side wouldn't budge. I finally hacksawed the axle and replaced it. Depending on if you get both pins out, you'll likely need a new wheel hub as it's still attached to the axle half after cutting. Make sure you order both new spring pins for reassembly. Overall, the job is not bad if you commit to sacrificing the original axle. Good luck.


----------



## falainwest

I think I've lost one bearing. Does anyone know the steps on how to replace the bearing in the picture below? Thanks.


----------



## SGrabs33

falainwest said:


> I think I've lost one bearing. Does anyone know the steps on how to replace the bearing in the picture below? Thanks.


I'd probably take the main chain off and pop the clutch off to work on it. Makes it easier. Check out the parts diagram but all you should have to do is pop off the two nuts on that let side and start disassembly until you find the part that needs replacing. Make sure to check everything else out as you might want to replace anything else that looks like it may go soon while your in there.


----------



## TulsaFan

I saw this on Facebook Marketplace in Enid, OK. I really like idea of a cover for the grass basket. I am going to send a message and see how well it works for him.


----------



## Batsonbe

TulsaFan said:


> I saw this on Facebook Marketplace in Enid, OK. I really like idea of a cover for the grass basket. I am going to send a message and see how well it works for him.


My tru cut grass thrower shout could probably be adjusted to work better with that mod but in the current state it would not work that well for me. I can't imagine how difficult that would make dumpling the clippings if you have a lot of yard like me that you reel mow.


----------



## TulsaFan

Batsonbe said:


> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> I saw this on Facebook Marketplace in Enid, OK. I really like idea of a cover for the grass basket. I am going to send a message and see how well it works for him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My tru cut grass thrower shout could probably be adjusted to work better with that mod but in the current state it would not work that well for me. I can't imagine how difficult that would make dumpling the clippings if you have a lot of yard like me that you reel mow.
Click to expand...

The seller stated that the mod really worked well for him. He hated western Oklahoma wind blowing out his grass clippings. Who knows??? :?


----------



## Batsonbe

TulsaFan said:


> Batsonbe said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> I saw this on Facebook Marketplace in Enid, OK. I really like idea of a cover for the grass basket. I am going to send a message and see how well it works for him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My tru cut grass thrower shout could probably be adjusted to work better with that mod but in the current state it would not work that well for me. I can't imagine how difficult that would make dumpling the clippings if you have a lot of yard like me that you reel mow.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The seller stated that the mod really worked well for him. He hated western Oklahoma wind blowing out his grass clippings. Who knows??? :?
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. The tru cut isn't something I've played around with much beyond maintenance


----------



## agrassman

My trucut ran out of gas with the blades off moving it around the house to put up. I tilted it back as I was going down a hill thinking it would get a little more gas. I didn't think anything of it and put it away. Filled it with gas a week later to mow and now it won't start. I read in this thread about removing the spark plug and pulling it. I did that about a dozen times but still no luck. The reel spins when I move it with my hand. It barely starts and then stops the first or second pull. Below is a video I took of what's happening. Any suggestions?

https://youtu.be/xRzGsCRr43U


----------



## gpbrown60

agrassman said:


> My trucut ran out of gas with the blades off moving it around the house to put up. I tilted it back as I was going down a hill thinking it would get a little more gas. I didn't think anything of it and put it away. Filled it with gas a week later to mow and now it won't start. I read in this thread about removing the spark plug and pulling it. I did that about a dozen times but still no luck. The reel spins when I move it with my hand. It barely starts and then stops the first or second pull. Below is a video I took of what's happening. Any suggestions?
> 
> Does it have an automatic shuttoff when the oil is low? If so, when you tilted the mower back that could have triggered it. Add some oil and see if it will start. Can't hurt to try.


----------



## agrassman

No idea if it has an oil cutoff. I'll check it out tomorrow. Thanks.


----------



## nhagerty

Does anyone recognize these bushings that have come off my Tru-Cut C25? I found a couple fragments during the previous cut and again during today's cut. Definitely came from machine, they were blazing hot when I picked them up. Looks like a couple different sizes?


----------



## Spammage

@nhagerty those look like they came from the chain tensioner.


----------



## gpbrown60

nhagerty said:


> Does anyone recognize these bushings that have come off my Tru-Cut C25? I found a couple fragments during the previous cut and again during today's cut. Definitely came from machine, they were blazing hot when I picked them up. Looks like a couple different sizes?
> 
> Could it be the baffle inside the muffler? It will burn itself out over time.


----------



## Mister Bill

agrassman said:


> No idea if it has an oil cutoff. I'll check it out tomorrow. Thanks.


Almost guarantee it has a low oil cut off. Common problem with these and the first place to check when a Honda is doing what yours is. Overfill the oil slightly by tipping the mower back a few inches. If it is still doing it, jump the wires going to the sensor to eliminate that the sensor itself isn't malfunctioning. Hope this gets you going.


----------



## agrassman

Oil cutoff was the issue. Added a tiny bit of oil and it is fine now. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## Mister Bill

agrassman said:


> Oil cutoff was the issue. Added a tiny bit of oil and it is fine now. Thanks for the tip!


Good to hear. :thumbup:


----------



## nhagerty

Spammage said:


> @nhagerty those look like they came from the chain tensioner.


Turns out it is the actual chain that is coming apart.





I put Blaster lube on every few cuts. Thoughts on what would cause the chain to bind like it has and get extremely tight?



Looks like it is 51 links. I haven't replace one yet, so curious if it is standard and easiest place to pick one up?


----------



## Spammage

@nhagerty Tractor Supply is usually an easy place to get them. You might consider replacing all of them at once, because you buy it in 10ft lengths. I think you can get a chain breaker there too, but I'm not sure. Get some half-length pieces too, just in case you need them.


----------



## nhagerty

@Spammage thanks for the info and tips. I'll head over to TSC tomorrow to pick up the items mentioned.

Could I also get your thoughts on if the reel chain is too loose?





There are currently 44 links. Should I remove 1 link (or half) and then adjust tensioner?


----------



## Cjames1603

When I had a c-27 my chain always seemed a bit loose. I had a ************ kit and I fought and fought trying to get the chain back tight. I never thought to try to remove a link, I just knew the fight was coming every time.


----------



## Spammage

nhagerty said:


> @Spammage thanks for the info and tips. I'll head over to TSC tomorrow to pick up the items mentioned.
> 
> Could I also get your thoughts on if the reel chain is too loose?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There are currently 44 links. Should I remove 1 link (or half) and then adjust tensioner?


You should only have at most 1/2" of deflection in any chain. I keep the reel chain on the tighter side because it will eat the head off of the tensioner bolt if it gets too much play.


----------



## nhagerty

Spammage said:


> You should only have at most 1/2" of deflection in any chain. I keep the reel chain on the tighter side because it will eat the head off of the tensioner bolt if it gets too much play.


Thanks! 👍 I'm going to try to tighten it up a little when I pick up the new chain.


----------



## drewwitt

Not sure if my chain is on wrong, but my tensioner is in the middle of the chain pushing tension outward. One of ours is wrong? I have about 3/8"-1/2" deflection.


----------



## SGrabs33

drewwitt said:


> Not sure if my chain is on wrong, but my tensioner is in the middle of the chain pushing tension outward. One of ours is wrong? I have about 3/8"-1/2" deflection.


I've always seen the deflector on the outside pressing one chain towards the other.


----------



## thesourgin

SGrabs33 said:


> drewwitt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if my chain is on wrong, but my tensioner is in the middle of the chain pushing tension outward. One of ours is wrong? I have about 3/8"-1/2" deflection.
> 
> 
> 
> I've always seen the deflector on the outside pressing one chain towards the other.
Click to expand...

I just got a (used) P20 the other day and can confirm mine is also on the outside pressing in.


----------



## Spammage

SGrabs33 said:


> drewwitt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if my chain is on wrong, but my tensioner is in the middle of the chain pushing tension outward. One of ours is wrong? I have about 3/8"-1/2" deflection.
> 
> 
> 
> I've always seen the deflector on the outside pressing one chain towards the other.
Click to expand...

+1 -- I'm not sure if the chain guard would fit the other way.


----------



## drewwitt

I got a used p20 with NO chain guard. Figures. I'll swap the placement.


----------



## falainwest

Does anyone knows the specifications of the 1" jam nut on the C-25? I lost mine yesterday, I need to buy one asap but don't know the specs. Thanks


----------



## kichigai

Gents... Does anybody have any info on how to change the reel on TC P20? I want to goto a 10 blade. It's practically a new mower purchased in 10/19 everything is solid, I back lapped and it cuts paper all the way across But whenever I mow I can't stop it from giving me that washboard/corduroy effect. I like to cut low I keep the height adjuster level at the 2nd hole from the bottom. FWIW I'm cutting platinum paspalum. Basically my main question is, can the reel be taken out without having to split the sides apart?

Thank you


----------



## drewwitt

I have a p20 and have taken mine out. I pulled the chain off, and then somehow got the bearings pulled. I was able to rotate the reel out. I think it took 20 min and I'm not mechanically inclined. I remember there being post detailing this many pages back in this thread. Not sure what page but maybe someone remembers.


----------



## Mister Bill

Last paragraph.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=257013#p257013


----------



## cnet24

Does anyone know the size of the bolts used for reel to bedknife adjustment? I ended up snapping one in half yesterday after trying to tighten it...


----------



## Batsonbe

cnet24 said:


> Does anyone know the size of the bolts used for reel to bedknife adjustment? I ended up snapping one in half yesterday after trying to tighten it...


I've managed to strip 3 of 6 of those things


----------



## Mister Bill

Batsonbe said:


> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the size of the bolts used for reel to bedknife adjustment? I ended up snapping one in half yesterday after trying to tighten it...
> 
> 
> 
> I've managed to strip 3 of 6 of those things
Click to expand...

You guys are waaaay over tightening those if you are breaking and stripping them. A 7/16" wrench choked is all that is needed as the back of the retainer ring is serrated.

1/4" X 5/8" fine (28) thread.

Edit: Tru-Cut Part number T90100. Any hardware will have the bolt though. Grade 5 is suitable for that application.


----------



## cnet24

[/quote]You guys are waaaay over tightening those if you are breaking and stripping them. A 7/16" wrench choked is all that is needed as the back of the retainer ring is serrated.[/quote]

I think this has to do with how frustrated I get when adjusting reel to bedknife on these machines, and let's just say I might be taking out a little anger haha. Thanks for providing.


----------



## Mister Bill

You guys are waaaay over tightening those if you are breaking and stripping them. A 7/16" wrench choked is all that is needed as the back of the retainer ring is serrated.[/quote]

I think this has to do with how frustrated I get when adjusting reel to bedknife on these machines, and let's just say I might be taking out a little anger haha. Thanks for providing.
[/quote]

Not trying to be smug, but I have not found it that difficult to set. 5-6 minutes at the most. Using the bolts to try and move the reel to bed knife is not going to provide good results, in my humble opinion.


----------



## cnet24

@Mister Bill 5-6 minutes is quick. Mind sharing your process with others on the board? I'm sure there are plenty that would benefit.

For me, adjusting isn't the issue. It's just tightening down the bolts on the reel that causes it to miss align, and makes me start over.


----------



## BermudaBen

I'm working on replacing the rear wheels, the reel, bearings, and bedknife on my 25" trucut and have a question for anyone that has taken the wheel axle apart... I removed one of the roll pins, but I'm not positive about the location of the other. I have attached the diagram annotating where I believe it is. It's either a roll pin or some form of grease hole. If anyone can help me figure out how to get this axle out, I'd greatly appreciate it.


----------



## corneliani

Can anyone tell from these pics if I have a relief or spin grind on this c27 I recently picked up? It hasn't been used in ages from the looks of it and I attempted to do a back lap.. just can't seem to see a relief bevel. Not sure how pronounced it should be as this is my first reel mower. 
Thanks for any help.


----------



## SGrabs33

@corneliani yep looks like a good amount of relief angle left. It's just still painted like the rest of the reel.


----------



## BermudaBen

BermudaBen said:


> I'm working on replacing the rear wheels, the reel, bearings, and bedknife on my 25" trucut and have a question for anyone that has taken the wheel axle apart... I removed one of the roll pins, but I'm not positive about the location of the other. I have attached the diagram annotating where I believe it is. It's either a roll pin or some form of grease hole. If anyone can help me figure out how to get this axle out, I'd greatly appreciate it.






I have tried everything. I've gone through 4 - 1/8in" punches, 5 titanium and cobalt bits, I've torched it numberous times, I beat it and beat it and it hasn't budged a millimeter. The only thing I know to do is start taking the mower completely a part for the machine shop.


----------



## BubbaGrumpus

Anyone know where/if it's possible to get one of these..



From the owners manual.. "spanner wrench for reel to bedknife adjustment"

Ever since taking it to get it serviced and adjustment.. my confidence in the machine is gone. I've had to take it back in 3 times in as many weeks to "fix" something that wasn't broke before."

Currently my reel starts squealing something awful if it's not in green grass and actively cutting.

I've decided to do this myself. That tool would be a fantastic find for a lot of us I think.


----------



## Spammage

@BubbaGrumpus I ordered it from Dolphin OPE, but I'm not sure if they are still in business. @Reelrollers is now selling TruCut parts (I believe).


----------



## BubbaGrumpus

Thank you! Also..

Is the reel squealing a normal thing? Or is the reel/bedknife too tight?

I'm also have "issues" with my chains. Are they supposed to be quiet at idle? Mine are audible even over the engine noise. At full throttle they make a heck of a racket..


----------



## Spammage

BubbaGrumpus said:


> Thank you! Also..
> 
> Is the reel squealing a normal thing? Or is the reel/bedknife too tight?
> 
> I'm also have "issues" with my chains. Are they supposed to be quiet at idle? Mine are audible even over the engine noise. At full throttle they make a heck of a racket..


The reel is probably too tight. Have you checked for heat buildup in the reel? If not, when it's squealing, stop the reel and hand check the reel. It should be the same temp from end to end and approximately ambient temperature. If the squealing is because it's too tight, there will be a noticeable heat buildup in the reel in a short time.

As far as the chains go, there should be no more than 1/2" deflection in them. You can adjust the tensioners until they are "tight" and have only a little deflection. Don't over tighten them though, as you can burn out a chain that way.


----------



## LawnFlyer

I'm a new member, have never been on a forum or posted to one. So, forgive me in advance if I'm doing this wrong. 
I recently acquired a TruCut 25" from a friend who used it for one summer. He ended up going with a yard service. Other than needing some basic adjustments, it is like new. I took it to a local golf club maintenance shop to have it back-lapped. The guy confirmed it was in great shape. 
I love just about everything about it, except the minimum cut height. It appears you can't adjust for a cut lower than factory. For context, I have 25k+ sf of lawn. I mow 90% with a Ferris zero turn, and the back yard with the TruCut. I have a "putting green" area that I cut at the lowest, but it's not short enough. I end up using a McLane that I set up to cut at about 1/4". I have a vintage Trimmer that will cut even shorter, but 5 blades leaves ripples. 
Unless someone has an idea for adjusting the TruCut lower, I'm considering a front roller and drilling new mount holes to reposition the frame lower. 
Thoughts and suggestions appreciated.


----------



## SGrabs33

@LawnFlyer Welcome!

Do you have the casters on it still? There are two sets of holes on the casters/roller. Do you have the bolts in the holes for the lower setting?


----------



## Spammage

@LawnFlyer unless the bedknife is really worn, that will be your limiter on cutting at the heights you are wanting to cut.


----------



## LawnFlyer

I still have the casters and run them locked. I've relocated the mounting bolts to give me the lowest cut, which looks like just under 1/2". I'd be happy with the bed knife just resting on the grass. Not so much to wear unreasonably. I don't actually use it as a putting green. Just want it to resemble a green. It's a sickness.


----------



## Jbird95

Howdy Fellas-
So I'm currently cutting my Zorro Zoysia @ 2" with a Gravely 44" ZT. Yard looks good but time to up my game. I'm pretty sold on the TC, but gotta say some of the issues I'm reading about have me thinking I'm gonna be doing more wrench turnin' than mowing. TC has virtually zero dealer support within 100 miles of me if something goes wrong and that makes me nervous. Is lack of local dealer support a deal ended?


----------



## LawnFlyer

I find the TC is far more advanced or complicated (you can take your choice) than the McLane and Trimmer I have. Like most things, preventive maintenance is a key to avoiding future difficulties. Especially keeping up with lubrication. I've tinkered with mine a little and find it fairly intuitive if you are mechanically inclined. That said, you may at some point need the services of a shop. There are two in my area (Central California), but I saw some advice when I was researching sharpening to check with local golf courses. I called one a few miles from my house and the maintenance shop there was very knowledgeable of TC mowers. I had them do my back lapping and adjusted the blade/knife contact. Did a great job.


----------



## Fishboy96

Hi all I just replaced both the bed knife and reel on my H25. Wasn't easy but also better than waiting 3+ weeks for someone to do it for me. Has anyone else noticed a brand new reel/bedknife doesn't mate all the way across the bedknife? It is almost as if there is some warping of the bedknife after everything is tightened down leaving about the left and right 1/3 making good contact but a gap in the middle of approx 10-12" across. This gap is about 1-2mm and I am hoping I don't have to backlap to get solid cutting across the entire knife. Any thoughts would be appreciated...


----------



## smurg

Fishboy96 said:


> Hi all I just replaced both the bed knife and reel on my H25. Wasn't easy but also better than waiting 3+ weeks for someone to do it for me. Has anyone else noticed a brand new reel/bedknife doesn't mate all the way across the bedknife? It is almost as if there is some warping of the bedknife after everything is tightened down leaving about the left and right 1/3 making good contact but a gap in the middle of approx 10-12" across. This gap is about 1-2mm and I am hoping I don't have to backlap to get solid cutting across the entire knife. Any thoughts would be appreciated...


I'd take any type of straight edge you have and confirm whether it's in fact the reel or bedknife.


----------



## corneliani

I would think that backlapping is necessary even with a new reel & bedknife ... the small tolerances require that they be mated to each other. But if you're 2 mm off on center I'd put a straight edge on it too. Could be the bedknife followed the contour of the frame a tad (?)


----------



## Adamg77

Anyone know where to obtain parts for the older Honda g200s? I have developed a leak from the fuel bowl on my trucut 27" I have the gasket and the metal threaded portion but the plastic portion is pretty deformed.


----------



## Spammage

@Adamg77 I've bought new carb replacements on Amazon for about $10. You do need to check the configuration though, because some are made slightly different for different applications, even though they will fit the GX engines.


----------



## Fishboy96

corneliani said:


> I would think that backlapping is necessary even with a new reel & bedknife ... the small tolerances require that they be mated to each other. But if you're 2 mm off on center I'd put a straight edge on it too. Could be the bedknife followed the contour of the frame a tad (?)


I used a straightedge and it definitely had some curve in it. I've backlapped it slowly several times until I got good contact between the reel and the center of the bed knife. I could see in the cut the center was darker and taller, and had some brown tearing but after I got it dialed in it's cutting beautifully. Before and after pics below...


----------



## Adamg77

@spammage thanks! I tried looking but only found one that looked like it would fit. I pulled the primer bulb off an old Ryobi weed eater and it worked perfectly


----------



## tcorbitt20

Has anybody ever replaced the reel and bedknife on a C-27? How much will I hate doing it? Had a chain break a couple weeks ago and found a piece of it later with the reel. I've had it ground once or twice, and I've put it through its paces over the last couple years.


----------



## Spammage

@tcorbitt20 it's a job, and pricey because I would suggest replacing the bearings and retainers too. That doesn't look that bad though. I would think you could work that a little and then grind it if needed. The bedknife is about $85 if I remember correctly.


----------



## tcorbitt20

Spammage said:


> @tcorbitt20 it's a job, and pricey because I would suggest replacing the bearings and retainers too. That doesn't look that bad though. I would think you could work that a little and then grind it if needed. The bedknife is about $85 if I remember correctly.


I already hammered that area pretty hard to keep it from sticking when spinning then ***********. There's a lot more blade on the reels on the ends than in the middle. It's pretty thin there. I'm still leaning toward trying to find a decent, used triplex, but I'd like to keep the TruCut in good order to use when needed.


----------



## Bermuda_Triangle

If you were going to tackle a hobby project with a Trucut 27 and replace the engine what engine would you recommend?

I notice most Trucut 27s have the Honda GX160. I was thinking about using a Honda GX200 for a little more weight and low end torque for the hills. Would a Honda GX240 approach being ridiculous?


----------



## cnet24

What does everyone use to keep the bed knife sharp during the mowing season? Can you use a grinder, similar to what you would use on a rotary blade to maintain edge?

I believe it is causing the below quality of cut issue- thoughts on what might be causing this? Just checked I am cutting paper


----------



## LawnFlyer

I'll let a more experienced user address the bed knife, but pretty sure you shouldn't grind it. On the cut, I get a similar situation on one part of my lawn and it is an area of very dense grass. I have Princess 77 Bermuda where I use the TC and it is in need of verti-cutting to reduce the density.


----------



## Jbird95

I played with a TC today at a local distributor. Question- when feathering the clutch while mowing does the thumb paddle start hurting your hand/thumb after use?


----------



## LawnFlyer

I haven't found it to be the case. I have long runs but with a lot turns. I only occasionally lock it in place. I change up My pattern to shorter diagonal runs and never lock the clutch. I'm hoping, as a newer owner, I don't regret it someday.


----------



## cnet24

Jbird95 said:


> I played with a TC today at a local distributor. Question- when feathering the clutch while mowing does the thumb paddle start hurting your hand/thumb after use?


That's normal if you are using it for the first time. Sounds strange, but you will get used to it overtime. My thumb feels that way at the beginning of every season. Takes awhile to build endurance in those muscles I guess!


----------



## Jbird95

Thanks CNET. Both thumb levers required quite a bit of force, more than I expected, I will not let that be a deal killer.


----------



## IlliniFaninTX

cnet24 said:


> @Mister Bill 5-6 minutes is quick. Mind sharing your process with others on the board? I'm sure there are plenty that would benefit.
> 
> For me, adjusting isn't the issue. It's just tightening down the bolts on the reel that causes it to miss align, and makes me start over.


+1 on sharing your process @ Mister Bill. I literally spent 30 minutes on it and the best I was able to get was cutting paper across most of the reel. Won't cut on far right. I was able to get a clean cut all the way across with the 6 bolts loose, but once I went to tighten, regardless of the order (used the order posted here early in the thread), it always moves. The way I have it now was the best I was able to get after multiple attempts to tighten.


----------



## Mister Bill

IlliniFaninTX said:


> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Mister Bill 5-6 minutes is quick. Mind sharing your process with others on the board? I'm sure there are plenty that would benefit.
> 
> For me, adjusting isn't the issue. It's just tightening down the bolts on the reel that causes it to miss align, and makes me start over.
> 
> 
> 
> +1 on sharing your process @ Mister Bill. I literally spent 30 minutes on it and the best I was able to get was cutting paper across most of the reel. Won't cut on far right. I was able to get a clean cut all the way across with the 6 bolts loose, but once I went to tighten, regardless of the order (used the order posted here early in the thread), it always moves. The way I have it now was the best I was able to get after multiple attempts to tighten.
Click to expand...

In my humble opinion, the design and engineering, or lack of for a better description, lends no credence to the magic bolt tightening sequence formulas. Some will disagree, I'll let them argue it out amongst themselves. 

The first step is setting the retaining rings so they are parallel to the side panels so the gap between the rings and side panels are even all around. Doesn't have to be feeler gauge perfect, but the gap should be equal all around. At this point, the bolts should be just loose enough to allow smooth movement of the bearing retainers with the leverage of a spanner wrench to adjust reel to knife, but yet snug enough to hold that position once set. To adjust the reel to knife, assuming the reel and knife are true, use the spanner wrench to set one side end corner of a reel blade to the knife and then do the same to the opposite side. When the end corners of the reel blade are set to the knife at the at the high point of the arc, the center of the reel blades to knife will automatically be set as well. Once the reel to knife is set, start bringing in the retaining ring bolts 1/16th of a turn each by hand with a short 7/16" wrench. Choke the wrench to use little as little leverage possible. The goal here is to bring in the gap between the rings and side panels evenly without moving the bearing retainers. Start with one side and turn all three bolts no more than a 1/16th turn each. Do the same to the other side. Check the reel to knife. Continue with this process until one side or the other of the reel to knife changes. At this point use a drift punch and small hammer and lightly tap the bearing retainer in the direction needed using the spanner wrench holes to fine tune the clearance of the reel to knife. A 16 ounce ball peen hammer is more than sufficient, choke the hammer and use light but firm taps. As the bolts are tightened further, the amount of hammer force will need to be increased accordingly. Done correctly, it will take 2-3 times of back and forth using the punch to fine tune the reel to knife back into in place as the bolts are being tightened. Do not over tightened the bolts, inch pounds is the key here. The back of the rings are serrated, it doesn't take a lot of torque to hold them in place. The retaining ring bolts are to hold the ring in place after the adjustment is set, not to adjust the reel to knife.

A couple of notes, keeping the gap between the side panel and ring even during tightening may entail having to back out one bolt slightly and then tighten the remaining two the same amount to keep the gap even as the rings are seating against the side panel of the mower frame. The spanner wrench is basically useless once the reel is initially set to the bed knife. This step can be omitted if the reel to knife is already in place. To back lap, loosen the bolts evenly until the punch can move the retainers. Then proceed as stated above, 1/16th-1/8th turns with the wrench is the most a bolt should be turned at a time. Otherwise, the ring will kick out of being parallel with the side panel as stated above. When testing sharpness with paper, hold the paper no less than 90 degrees to the bed knife when turning the reel. Holding the paper flat to the bed knife will not give an accurate test of the sharpness as the paper will usually pinch rather than cut.

This may seem like a lot of back and forth steps, but the entire process takes less than ten minutes and provides consistent results.


----------



## Lawn Burgundy

Mightyquinn said:


> Ok, I will be referring to the mower as if you were standing in front of it. You will need a flat tip screw driver, 1/2" & 7/16" wrench and/or socket wrench and a 1" wrench or large Crescent wrench. You may also need some needle nose pliers or diagonal cutters to remove the cotter pin that holds the height adjustment bar in place. You will need to remove the chain cover on the far right side(1 bolt and 1 nut) and the large one that is just right of the engine(2 in the front and 2 in the back). You will also need to remove the cotter pin and washer holding the height adjustment bar to the front of the mower, once free, just move it off to the side, I usually prop it behind the gas cap. Now you can remove the large chain/clutch cover. You will also need to remove the chain on the far right side, you can loosen the slack in the chain on the adjuster, it is a 1/2" bolt, once you have slack in the chain, find the connector link on the chain by rotating the reel with your hand until it is found and pop it off with a flat tip screwdriver and remove the link and the chain.
> 
> Picture #1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture #2
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture #3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In Picture #1, you will need to remove Item #1 with the 1" wrench. After removing the nut also remove the gear from the arm also. Now you should be able to remove the washer with the tabs(Item #2) by hand or persuade it off with a flat tip screwdriver. Now you have access to the adjustment nut(Item #3), there are a few more steps before coming back to this to make your adjustments.
> 
> In Picture #2, You will need to loosen Items #1 & #2, they are 1/2" bolts with a nut on the bottom of them so it will require a wrench on one side and a wrench or socket wrench on the other. Once these are loose you can begin the adjustment of the clutch.
> 
> In Picture #3, You will insert the feeler gauge as shown in Item #1 to test the gap of the clutch. There should be a gap between .020"-.030". I usually shoot for .025.
> 
> Now you will tighten/loosen Item #3 in Picture #1 until the gap is where it needs to be. Once you have the gap to where you want it you will need to reassemble everything being sure to tightening the bolts from Pic #2 Items #1 & #2 and putting Items #2 & #1 from Pic #1 back together. You will also need to reattach the chain and remove the slack from the chain too. I would refrain from reinstalling the Chain guards until you can test drive it and make sure it all works correctly. Be careful adjusting the clutch too tight as it will engage too easily or stay engaged and when reinstalling the large chain/clutch cover, make sure it isn't sitting too low or the chain will hit it and make a god awful sound!!!
> 
> If I left something out please let me know so I can correct it or If you hit a snag let me know too!!!
> 
> Per SGrabs33's request, I moved this over here from ATY


@Mightyquinn 
For the reel adjustment (mine always spins) would I do almost the same but on the opposite side? 
As shown below, just loosen the nut and jam nut and loosen them so the clutch disengages?


----------



## Mightyquinn

I would think so but it's been so long since I have owned one, I'm kind of rusty on some of the techniques of servicing it, I would refer you to @SGrabs33 as he has worked on them more recently. I do know all the info is in the service manual which should be easily found online.


----------



## SGrabs33

@STRES yes, you loosen the jam nut and then the other nut adjust me the spacing between the clutch pad. What are you trying to do?


----------



## Lawn Burgundy

@SGrabs33 my reel will not disengage with the lever so I assumed it was the clutch was too tight. I can start the mower and it will stay stationary but once engaged it never disengages unless I turn it off. Is it the same ~.25 gap as the wheel clutch? Is this measured when engaged i assume?

Thanks for the help @Mightyquinn


----------



## SGrabs33

STRES said:


> @SGrabs33 my reel will not disengage with the lever so I assumed it was the clutch was too tight. I can start the mower and it will stay stationary but once engaged it never disengages unless I turn it off. Is it the same ~.25 gap as the wheel clutch? Is this measured when engaged i assume?
> 
> Thanks for the help @Mightyquinn


It's measured when disengaged. When engaged there should be 0 gap.

Does the thumb control for the reel pop back any when you take your finger off now? How about if you manually pull it backwards to disengage? Is it kissing the spring that helps it disengage when you take off your thumb?


----------



## Lawn Burgundy

SGrabs33 said:


> STRES said:
> 
> 
> 
> @SGrabs33 my reel will not disengage with the lever so I assumed it was the clutch was too tight. I can start the mower and it will stay stationary but once engaged it never disengages unless I turn it off. Is it the same ~.25 gap as the wheel clutch? Is this measured when engaged i assume?
> 
> Thanks for the help @Mightyquinn
> 
> 
> 
> It's measured when disengaged. When engaged there should be 0 gap.
> 
> Does the thumb control for the reel pop back any when you take your finger off now? How about if you manually pull it backwards to disengage? Is it kissing the spring that helps it disengage when you take off your thumb?
Click to expand...

@SGrabs33 
It "locks" like the wheel clutch does but it has some vertical play once locked. But when I go to disengage it the reel just keeps spinning there is virtually no gap for the clutch where there is almost a 1/8" gap for the wheel clutch but it seems to be operating normally. I do have the slow speed transmission if that matters. 
If you are talking about the red spring that's against the clutch almost it does seem to have contact.


----------



## corneliani

I may have experienced the same symptom today, except on the wheel side of the clutch.. It seems like the thumb lever does not always come back far enough to disengage the clutch.. I had to help it back a few times. Is this a clutch adjustment issue? Or is there a spring I need to be looking for? I will add that both my levers are surprisingly easy to engage, unlike the question posted a few days ago. Almost funny easy... I can feather the drive wheels with hardly any engagement on my end. I've been mowing one handed & in flip flops the pst couple mows! Love it.


----------



## blaw

Hoping for some advice on a 25" rear roller drive. Is there any thing in particular to test regarding the roller drive? I've mostly seen wheel drive models here. Owner is asking 600




Also, is there a safe way to lift one of these? Thinking of loading into back of minivan since I got no truck.


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## cnet24

@blaw I am selling my Tru-Cut and located in your neck of the woods if interested:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/686391348578841


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## blaw

cnet24 said:


> @blaw I am selling my Tru-Cut and located in your neck of the woods if interested:
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/686391348578841


Oh, I've seen your listings (you've got it on Letgo too I believe). It's the one would get if money were no issue. Your mower looks awesome and really wish it was within budget. But if you want, I can reply to you listing with a "will you take half?" :lol:


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## Lawn Burgundy

So, 
Update on the Reel not disengaging, while i was trying to loosen the jam nuts without the proper tools (unsuccessfully might i add) i must have loosened it just enough to start working properly, so as long as it keeps working i wont mess wit it. 
Tools are on the way for future adjustments. 
I also grabbed a grease gun and some other tools needed for backlapping, while i was adding grease to the zirc by the drive chains under the Chain cover to the left of the engine, it popped out due to the pressure, are these zirc's 1/4-28 threads? 
hopefully it was just loose, (i damaged the threads removing it from the gun) i don't want to try to tap and thread another one on as i've never done that before, should i just buy a kit to replace the Zirc? would that work or am i needing to tap and re-thread?


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## falconsfan

I thought I read on here somewhere that the zirks are push in.


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## SGrabs33

falconsfan said:


> I thought I read on here somewhere that the zirks are push in.


@STRES This is right. They are press fit.


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## Lawn Burgundy

@SGrabs33 Any link to the specific size & type i'm new to the greasing world


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## SGrabs33

STRES said:


> @SGrabs33 Any link to the specific size & type i'm new to the greasing world





crstude said:


> cnet24 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the Zerk sizes on the Tru-Cut? I had one fall out and need to replace it.
> 
> 
> 
> Does 3/16 sound right? I saw that on a parts list #9
> 
> http://www.smithdistributingcompany.com/pdf/tru_cut/C25_C27.pdf
Click to expand...


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## Lawn Burgundy

Thanks @SGrabs33 
Found them here for $3.40 for a pack of 10
https://www.mcmaster.com/1102K34/
if anyone is interested this is what the dimensions are


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## Lawn Burgundy

Has anyone tried to put different grips on the Trucut? like dirtbike rubber grips? or similar i wonder if they are the same diameter tubing?
something like these https://www.amazon.com/Biltwell-GR-...ds=biltwell+grips&qid=1596743472&sr=8-42&th=1


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## mre_man_76

Hello all. Second season with my new to me C-27. I get it serviced at my local reel mower shop at the end of each season but I Definitely need to step up my general maintenance. I don't know what year this Was manufactured but I know how to find out since it was posted earlier in this thread. All in all it performs they way it should.

With that being said I noticed with my last few cuts that I am losing torque. It is getting to the point where the drive wheels will occasionally stop moving with the clutch fully engaged but the reels continue to spin. The last service I got back in March, the service tech said the clutch was good and have a lot of life left in it. Is there some adjustments I can make to remedy this or does it need to go to the shop?

I think the first symptoms I noticed was in the beginning of this season where the rpms would drop to like the lowest setting. No matter how many times I open the throttle up, within 30 seconds it drops down to low.

Lastly, what is the proper way to operate the mower? I do not fully engage the clutch when I mow. I feather the clutch 100% of the time. Is this causing too much stress on my clutch and causing it to fail?

I appreciate any input you all have.

TIA!!!


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## falconsfan

Most of us feather the drive clutch while the blade clutch is fully engaged. Should not cause any problems. Sounds like you need a clutch adjustment and a tightening of your throttle cable.


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## mre_man_76

Thanks, that is very good to hear. I'll look into those adjustments.


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## Lawn Burgundy

STRES said:


> Has anyone tried to put different grips on the Trucut? like dirtbike rubber grips? or similar i wonder if they are the same diameter tubing?
> something like these https://www.amazon.com/Biltwell-GR-...ds=biltwell+grips&qid=1596743472&sr=8-42&th=1


I was at cycle gear getting a new tube put in my front motorcycle tire and saw a pack of grips from pro taper for 10$ so I figured I would give it a try 
Seems to have worked out quite well.




So much better feel of the grips no more crazy hard plastic, I haven't mowed with it yet but it feels like a good upgrade


----------



## DDW

Hi, I picked up a used H-20 recently and I'm curious if the shims under the pillow block for the clutch are supposed to be there. The motor is mounted with some spacers also to provide clearance for the tires I would assume but the shims under the clutch block I'm not sure about. It has the Honda GC135 engine and the mower is about 15 years old based off the ser #.


----------



## JRS 9572

I'm looking at buying a new Tru Cut this winter or very early spring. I'm 200 miles from ATL, and 110 miles from Charlotte (in the Columbia SC metro area.)

Can you folks recommend a preferred dealer to work with in either area? I filled out an inquiry with Interstate Supplies and Services in Stallings, NC yesterday. Waiting to hear back from them. But I have no idea what they're like to deal with.

Any advice would be most appreciated.


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## cnet24

@JRS 9572 try Peachtree mowers in ATL


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## JRS 9572

@cnet24 thanks. Any particular person you have dealt with over there? If not, then I'll just call/say I'm looking to buy a tru-cut.


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## cnet24

JRS 9572 said:


> @cnet24 thanks. Any particular person you have dealt with over there? If not, then I'll just call/say I'm looking to buy a tru-cut.


It's a small operation. Their names escape me right now.


----------



## Yo M-F

My Tru-cut 25 drive clutch started slipping. I tried to adjust the drive side of the clutch but maxed out the adjustment and wasn't able to set the .025 gap between the clutch lining and drive housing. I noticed the drive housing was loose enough that I could twist it on the shaft. I disassembled the drive side clutch and the 1 ½" bronze bushing #163 is cracked with half remaining in spacer #164. I probably wasn't lubricating the shaft enough or it just gave out.

I would like to replace the bushing and spacer without replacing much else but I'm not sure if the clutch lining has enough meat left on it or if the drive housing face that engages the clutch lining is supposed to be crosshatched or smooth. There are no gouges on either surface. I'm guessing the machine is at least 25 years old based on the olds school single motor chain guard.

Update:
Tru-cut said there is enough meat on the lining and the drive housing doesn't need to be finished. I'm replacing the two bronze bushings and one of the lock washers and calling it a day.


----------



## jrbreeland

Can somebody post pics of all the grease locations? Or a link to the owners manual for a c27?


----------



## Lawn Burgundy

jrbreeland said:


> Can somebody post pics of all the grease locations? Or a link to the owners manual for a c27?


http://p8.hostingprod.com/@dolphinope.com/TRU_CUT_OWNERS_MANUAL_with_Cover_06_2013.pdf


----------



## jrbreeland

STRES said:


> jrbreeland said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can somebody post pics of all the grease locations? Or a link to the owners manual for a c27?
> 
> 
> 
> http://p8.hostingprod.com/@dolphinope.com/TRU_CUT_OWNERS_MANUAL_with_Cover_06_2013.pdf
Click to expand...

Thanks. I assumed it was going to be more detailed.


----------



## corneliani

jrbreeland said:


> Thanks. I assumed it was going to be more detailed.


Can't help chuckling at this. I think we all expected a little more information in their 'owners manual' ... it is indeed very underwhelming & lacking of any detail. Hence why this forum is invaluable! 👍


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## SGrabs33

jrbreeland said:


> Can somebody post pics of all the grease locations? Or a link to the owners manual for a c27?


https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=13771#p13771


----------



## jrbreeland

SGrabs33 said:


> jrbreeland said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can somebody post pics of all the grease locations? Or a link to the owners manual for a c27?
> 
> 
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=13771#p13771
Click to expand...

Huge help thank you!


----------



## falconsfan

Just noticed this today, seems previous owner over greased this bearing. How bad is this to DIY? Can it be run in the mean time? Thanks in advance.


----------



## SGrabs33

falconsfan said:


> Just noticed this today, seems previous owner over greased this bearing. How bad is this to DIY? Can it be run in the mean time? Thanks in advance.


Yep. That bearing failed. Does it have any movement left/right or up/down. If not you may be able to get a little time out of it still. But keep checking. Probably a good winter project to replace the bearing.


----------



## corneliani

Hey y'all, is it normal for the reel to stop spinning when encountering resistance?? Is that some kind of built in safety feature? Or does the clutch need adjustment?
I was taking my turf down a bit, ahead of these hurricane rains, and when I'd come up on the thicker/taller patches the reel would stop. It required me cleaning out the reels a bit (just slammed it against the ground a few times actually) in order for it to continue.


----------



## SGrabs33

corneliani said:


> Hey y'all, is it normal for the reel to stop spinning when encountering resistance?? Is that some kind of built in safety feature? Or does the clutch need adjustment?
> I was taking my turf down a bit, ahead of these hurricane rains, and when I'd come up on the thicker/taller patches the reel would stop. It required me cleaning out the reels a bit (just slammed it against the ground a few times actually) in order for it to continue.


Yeah if it's not super sharp then if your cutting off too much @ once it could jam. Happens more often when scalping. Backlapping the reel or adjusting the clutch could help.


----------



## Kevbell

Does anyone have experience with the PR Roller drive Tru-cuts, as opposed to the wheel drive? Pros or Cons?


----------



## SGrabs33

Kevbell said:


> Does anyone have experience with the PR Roller drive Tru-cuts, as opposed to the wheel drive? Pros or Cons?


Not too many of those out there anymore I don't think. Rarely see them.

It would have the more basic drive function of the McLane or Trimmer with the harder to adjust reel/bedknife.

Do they still make that model?


----------



## Kevbell

SGrabs33 said:


> Kevbell said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have experience with the PR Roller drive Tru-cuts, as opposed to the wheel drive? Pros or Cons?
> 
> 
> 
> Not too many of those out there anymore I don't think. Rarely see them.
> 
> It would have the more basic drive function of the McLane or Trimmer with the harder to adjust reel/bedknife.
> 
> Do they still make that model?
Click to expand...

They are listed on the Tru-Cut website. PR I imagine stands for Professional Reel.


----------



## Kevbell

I called tru-Cut today to ask about the roller models. Guess they don't sell too many. The gentleman said the roller drive is like the Cal. Trimmer, drop the roller and you're running! Sounds like the is no feathering the drive on it like there is on the wheel drive.


----------



## DFWdude

Where can someone find specs on a tru-cut 27" model, specifically HOC range?
Where can someone buy a new tru-cut?

Thanks!


----------



## mre_man_76

If I remember correctly it's half an inch - 2.25 inches


----------



## DFWdude

mre_man_76 said:


> If I remember correctly it's half an inch - 2.25 inches


Thanks. Do they have authorized dealers, or are they factory direct? Their website seems pretty bare bones!


----------



## Lawn Burgundy

There is 2 height ranges(Low and high) , and each notch is 1/8" I believe I'm on the low and added some cheater labels. I believe I am correct but I could be wrong.


----------



## Mister Bill

DFWdude said:


> mre_man_76 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If I remember correctly it's half an inch - 2.25 inches
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Do they have authorized dealers, or are they factory direct? Their website seems pretty bare bones!
Click to expand...

Authorized dealers. Both McLane and Tru-Cut are stuck in the 1940's. I am old school as well, but they take it to a new level. :lol:


----------



## Mister Bill

DFWdude said:


> Where can someone find specs on a tru-cut 27" model, specifically HOC range?
> Where can someone buy a new tru-cut?
> 
> Thanks!


I recall seeing a dealer in Plano mentioned here before. I would venture to say a city the size of Dallas would have several authorized dealers to choose from. Some small mower sales/repair shops and/or hardware stores are authorized dealers, although they may not keep many units in stock or advertise as being a dealer.

The HOC from my cheat sheet is as follows;

Low Cut Position 3/8″ min. to 1-5/8 max.
High Cut Position 1″ min. to 2-1/4″ max

Maximum Ground speed is approximately 250 ft. per minute for commercial/pro units and 200 ft. per minute for home owner versions. A speed reducing kit can be purchased for the C models.

I do not recall where I saved that information from, perhaps the old Dolphin site.


----------



## Mister Bill

Kevbell said:


> I called tru-Cut today to ask about the roller models. Guess they don't sell too many. The gentleman said the roller drive is like the Cal. Trimmer, drop the roller and you're running! Sounds like the is no feathering the drive on it like there is on the wheel drive.


Correct, no feathering on the roller drive model. The drive design and operation is the same as the McLane and Trimmer mowers.


----------



## DFWdude

The largest roller drive is 25", correct?


----------



## Reelrollers

DFWdude said:


> mre_man_76 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If I remember correctly it's half an inch - 2.25 inches
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Do they have authorized dealers, or are they factory direct? Their website seems pretty bare bones!
Click to expand...

We are an authorized dealer and partnered with Tru Cut last year to help Tru Cut get back into the market by selling their mowers both online and at our shop. We didn't want to sell them until we could first revamp all of their parts manuals which we did in 2020, and now we are working in the manuals for the mowers. They haven't updated their material in a long time and before we started selling them, they had to become more user friendly. This off season we'll be finishing up their videos, doing comparisons, and partnering with Tru cut to increase their marketing. we are going to sell our 2 favorite models of Tru Cut which are the 27" and 20" with the GX Honda engine (commercial models). We just got a few in to start shouting some new photos as well yesterday.


----------



## cnet24

Reelrollers said:


> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mre_man_76 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If I remember correctly it's half an inch - 2.25 inches
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Do they have authorized dealers, or are they factory direct? Their website seems pretty bare bones!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> We are an authorized dealer and partnered with Tru Cut last year to help Tru Cut get back into the market by selling their mowers both online and at our shop. We didn't want to sell them until we could first revamp all of their parts manuals which we did in 2020, and now we are working in the manuals for the mowers. They haven't updated their material in a long time and before we started selling them, they had to become more user friendly. This off season we'll be finishing up their videos, doing comparisons, and partnering with Tru cut to increase their marketing. we are going to sell our 2 favorite models of Tru Cut which are the 27" and 20" with the GX Honda engine (commercial models). We just got a few in to start shouting some new photos as well yesterday.
Click to expand...

 :thumbup: Very much needed. They could certainly capitalize on the homeowner reel market if their material could be updated. I think this will be a slam dunk.


----------



## Reelrollers

cnet24 said:


> Reelrollers said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. Do they have authorized dealers, or are they factory direct? Their website seems pretty bare bones!
> 
> 
> 
> We are an authorized dealer and partnered with Tru Cut last year to help Tru Cut get back into the market by selling their mowers both online and at our shop. We didn't want to sell them until we could first revamp all of their parts manuals which we did in 2020, and now we are working in the manuals for the mowers. They haven't updated their material in a long time and before we started selling them, they had to become more user friendly. This off season we'll be finishing up their videos, doing comparisons, and partnering with Tru cut to increase their marketing. we are going to sell our 2 favorite models of Tru Cut which are the 27" and 20" with the GX Honda engine (commercial models). We just got a few in to start shouting some new photos as well yesterday.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> :thumbup: Very much needed. They could certainly capitalize on the homeowner reel market if their material could be updated. I think this will be a slam dunk.
Click to expand...

Some samples from today's pics.


----------



## kichigai

Does anybody have the repair manual for the tru cut p20 ?


----------



## SGrabs33

kichigai said:


> Does anybody have the repair manual for the tru cut p20 ?


There isn't such a thing I don't believe. What issues are you having?


----------



## Reelrollers

kichigai said:


> Does anybody have the repair manual for the tru cut p20 ?


We do. Can your shoot us an email and we'll scan it in and email it to you?


----------



## kichigai

Thank you


----------



## kichigai

Who do I contact @ reelrollers? I got reply saying you guys don't have a copy and there's no such thing


----------



## Lawn Burgundy

@Reelrollers see above


----------



## Reelrollers

kichigai said:


> Who do I contact @ reelrollers? I got reply saying you guys don't have a copy and there's no such thing


Owners manual, yes. Service manual, we don't know of one. I'll PM you, sorry


----------



## kichigai

Thank you


----------



## Greendoc

If I remember rightly, the TC owners manual has the instructions for adjusting the plate clutches and chains.


----------



## Greendoc

I also know that adjusting those clutches required me to mill down 2 open end 15/16 wrenches


----------



## crstude

SGrabs33 said:


> Hulk37 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> They are. There is 4 total.
> 
> 
> 
> I loosened up all 4 but had trouble getting the motor to budge. Should it take quite a bit of force?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's probably just been sitting in that position for a while. Take a short 2x4 and a hammer and give it a little tap. Make sure that there is room on the bolt holes to slide, or if it is already maxed out. Possible there are other bolts on the side of the engine near the shaft that are holding it also. Those bolts hold the handle in place but you might need to loosen them some for the engine to move.
Click to expand...

Anyone have an easy way or how they get the front bolts loosened up to slide the motor back? I'm thinking the motor may have wiggled it's way forward thus causing the drive chain to get thrown off consistently. Chain and sprocket is in good shape and seems like excessive slack when the chain is on. Any good methods for sliding this motor back? Trucut C27 Honda 160 for reference.


----------



## kichigai

Does anybody know which red (rustoleum) spray paint matches the tru cut red? Thanks


----------



## jpos34

Why are your thoughts on this mower? It's about a 4 hour drive for me. Does it seem like a good price? The owner sent me a video of it running and it appeared to be in good working order best I could tell.


----------



## AllisonN

jpos34 said:


> Why are your thoughts on this mower? It's about a 4 hour drive for me. Does it seem like a good price? The owner sent me a video of it running and it appeared to be in good working order best I could tell.


Run it. I'm sure he will take $400. Backlap the reel and you'll hopefully be good to go. I judge a lot off the tires and the reel.


----------



## SGrabs33

@jpos34 looks in descent shape. It does not have any relief angle on the blade it doesn't look like so it will be a little harder to backlap and adjust.

Those older briggs carbs are a bit hard to work on IMO. If it's running now then it should be fine. Just make sure to run ethanol free it in. Make sure the gas tank is rust free.

Big plus it already has the roller.

Always hard to tell the condition of the clutch pads. Just make sure both thumb controls operate correctly if you go and take a look.


----------



## jpos34

@SGrabs33. I'm new to all of this what the best way to tell about clutch pads working correctly? If they don't is that a hard/expensive repair?


----------



## SGrabs33

jpos34 said:


> @SGrabs33. I'm new to all of this what the best way to tell about clutch pads working correctly? If they don't is that a hard/expensive repair?


Just make sure that it propels when you push the left thumb and the REEL spins when you push the right. A whole new clutch would be around 400. But if your handy and want to just replace the pass yourself it's less than 100 plus your time.


----------



## jpos34

Got my first reel mower today. Tru Cut C25. I'm gonna share some pictures of it and let me know what you think. I have a couple questions as well. First off in some of these pictures you will notice a lot of grease caked up on some areas. Would you recommend using say an engine degreaser and pressure washer and trying to wash this off. Or will that cause more issues than just me dealing with a dirty mower. I was just trying to clean it up nice since I just got it and being my first one it's kinda like a new car. Also the lever that lower cutting height is kind of difficult to adjust either way. In the picture can you tell anything out that would cause this issue. On the picture of the wheels you'll notice wheels are running the metal housing, is that how it's supposed to be. Doesn't seem to cause any issue when engaging drive. Final question I have for now is when you engage the drive clutch it causes the reel to spin slightly. Is this normal or does something need to be adjusted. Thanks for any input you may have.


----------



## SGrabs33

@jpos34 nice score!

Sure you can use a degreaser for most of the machine. I would just keep it off the clutch.

Dont know why the height arm wouldn't work easily. Maybe spray it with some wd40.

Yeah those wheels always seem to run up against the housing. You can try and Bend it away slightly but it shouldn't cause any issues.

If the reel is engaging when you use the drive the clutch could need some adjusting. Is the reel and bedknife touching at all right now or is it spinning freely. If you backlap the machine and get some contact between the reel and bedknife that could stop the reel from spinning when you engage the drive.


----------



## jpos34

@SGrabs33 the reel and bedknife are not making contact at the moment and it does not cut paper. I will try that adjustment first before I attempt the clutch adjustment. Took the chain guard off today when I cleaned it. I'm guessing this much slack is not normal? Does this mean I need to get a new chain? Or can I take links out?


----------



## AllisonN

jpos34 said:


> @SGrabs33 the reel and bedknife are not making contact at the moment and it does not cut paper. I will try that adjustment first before I attempt the clutch adjustment. Took the chain guard off today when I cleaned it. I'm guessing this much slack is not normal? Does this mean I need to get a new chain? Or can I take links out?


You can remove a link if the motor is at the end of its adjustment. Or you can replace the chains as over time, yes they will stretch.


----------



## AllisonN

AllisonN said:


> jpos34 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @SGrabs33 the reel and bedknife are not making contact at the moment and it does not cut paper. I will try that adjustment first before I attempt the clutch adjustment. Took the chain guard off today when I cleaned it. I'm guessing this much slack is not normal? Does this mean I need to get a new chain? Or can I take links out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can remove a link if the motor is at the end of its adjustment. Or you can replace the chains as over time, yes they will stretch.
Click to expand...

And reel to bed knife, I adjust one side and set it then the other. Super hard to ever get it right with setting and trying to tighten the 3 bolts on each side. Some say a sequence, I've tried them all and don't use a sequence other than tighten in the reverse of loosing. As in top bottom middle loose then middle bottom top back tight. Works for me but some will argue their way....


----------



## AllisonN

AllisonN said:


> AllisonN said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jpos34 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @SGrabs33 the reel and bedknife are not making contact at the moment and it does not cut paper. I will try that adjustment first before I attempt the clutch adjustment. Took the chain guard off today when I cleaned it. I'm guessing this much slack is not normal? Does this mean I need to get a new chain? Or can I take links out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can remove a link if the motor is at the end of its adjustment. Or you can replace the chains as over time, yes they will stretch.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> And reel to bed knife, I adjust one side and set it then the other. Super hard to ever get it right with setting and trying to tighten the 3 bolts on each side. Some say a sequence, I've tried them all and don't use a sequence other than tighten in the reverse of loosing. As in top bottom middle loose then middle bottom top back tight. Works for me but some will argue their way....
Click to expand...

The height adjustment could also be tight due to the front roller being to tight on the 2 bolts on each side. Also could of not used the correct bolts on the roller that has cause the front roller to be over tightened.


----------



## jpos34

@AllisonN i was able to move the engine back like you suggested and got the chain to what I would think is the right tension. I also went and adjusted the front roller down to the lower HOC setting and I'm certain they didn't use the right bolts as they are all different lengths and types. Only one had a nylon lock nut on it. I didn't tighten them as much and that helped loosen up the height adjustment. But now I want to get the correct bolts, washers, and nuts. Do you know what is the correct ones of each of these? I didn't tighten up any of the nuts as I wanted it to be easier to adjust height for now. My lawn is dormant right now so I won't be using the mower until the spring but want to get it corrected as I'm sure they will just back of the bolts and fall off.


----------



## AllisonN

jpos34 said:


> @AllisonN i was able to move the engine back like you suggested and got the chain to what I would think is the right tension. I also went and adjusted the front roller down to the lower HOC setting and I'm certain they didn't use the right bolts as they are all different lengths and types. Only one had a nylon lock nut on it. I didn't tighten them as much and that helped loosen up the height adjustment. But now I want to get the correct bolts, washers, and nuts. Do you know what is the correct ones of each of these? I didn't tighten up any of the nuts as I wanted it to be easier to adjust height for now. My lawn is dormant right now so I won't be using the mower until the spring but want to get it corrected as I'm sure they will just back of the bolts and fall off.


The correct ones have a shank on the bolts that only allow you to tighten so far. This evening I will get a picture of them and see if I can't find the part number for them. But it uses the same bolts wether it's for a roller or the caster wheels.


----------



## Sooner_37

jpos34 said:


> @AllisonN i was able to move the engine back like you suggested and got the chain to what I would think is the right tension. I also went and adjusted the front roller down to the lower HOC setting and I'm certain they didn't use the right bolts as they are all different lengths and types. Only one had a nylon lock nut on it. I didn't tighten them as much and that helped loosen up the height adjustment. But now I want to get the correct bolts, washers, and nuts. Do you know what is the correct ones of each of these? I didn't tighten up any of the nuts as I wanted it to be easier to adjust height for now. My lawn is dormant right now so I won't be using the mower until the spring but want to get it corrected as I'm sure they will just back of the bolts and fall off.


Reelrollers.com have TruCut parts. The diagram parts are accurate. If you have a local dealer that sell parts, that would be cheaper. If not, this site should take care of you


----------



## Adamg77

Hello, 
I have a trucut 27" that I'm looking to freshen up over the next few months. I am looking to replace nuts, bolts, and potentially some bearings as I will be disassembling most of the machine to get painted. Is there a list of all hardware somewhere. I have seen the parts diagram but do not see a list of parts. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## Reelrollers

Adamg77 said:


> Hello,
> I have a trucut 27" that I'm looking to freshen up over the next few months. I am looking to replace nuts, bolts, and potentially some bearings as I will be disassembling most of the machine to get painted. Is there a list of all hardware somewhere. I have seen the parts diagram but do not see a list of parts. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!


You can find all the diagrams and parts at www.reelrollers.com if you have questions feel free to give us a call.


----------



## Jonesy

Purchased an older 20" model over the offseason. It did not come with a grass catcher. Is there somewhere to order one online? Could grass catchers for other brands be made to work like Mclane or CalTrimmer? What have you guys done if anyone has been in this situation before?


----------



## SGrabs33

Jonesy said:


> Purchased an older 20" model over the offseason. It did not come with a grass catcher. Is there somewhere to order one online? Could grass catchers for other brands be made to work like Mclane or CalTrimmer? What have you guys done if anyone has been in this situation before?


Would be hard to fit another brand on because of the way it attaches I think. Reel rollers sells them I believe.


----------



## falainwest

The reel of my C-25 usually stops spinning when scalping thick grass. What could possible be the cause of this, or is it just a normal thing with reel mowers?


----------



## SGrabs33

falainwest said:


> The reel of my C-25 usually stops spinning when scalping thick grass. What could possible be the cause of this, or is it just a normal thing with reel mowers?


When's the last time it was sharpened? Or backlapped? Scalping is definitely the hardest part on the grass or excuse me on the reel because it's dead and brown. Not much lubrication. Is the mower cutting paper all the way across the bedknife?


----------



## Reelrollers

SGrabs33 said:


> falainwest said:
> 
> 
> 
> The reel of my C-25 usually stops spinning when scalping thick grass. What could possible be the cause of this, or is it just a normal thing with reel mowers?
> 
> 
> 
> When's the last time it was sharpened? Or backlapped? Scalping is definitely the hardest part on the grass or excuse me on the reel because it's dead and brown. Not much lubrication. Is the mower cutting paper all the way across the bedknife?
Click to expand...

Agree with SGrabs, could be a dull reel or could be too much of a gap between reel and bedknife which will cause the grass to "jam" vs cut. Paper test will definitely tell you a lot. If you are making contact with the bedknife, odds are the bedknife/ reel need to be sharpened. If you have no contact of the reel to bedknife, you may need to make an adjustment to slightly tighten things.

In the end, my focus would be how well it does on green grass vs making too many changes based on how it cuts dormant grass.


----------



## falainwest

SGrabs33 said:


> falainwest said:
> 
> 
> 
> The reel of my C-25 usually stops spinning when scalping thick grass. What could possible be the cause of this, or is it just a normal thing with reel mowers?
> 
> 
> 
> When's the last time it was sharpened? Or backlapped? Scalping is definitely the hardest part on the grass or excuse me on the reel because it's dead and brown. Not much lubrication. Is the mower cutting paper all the way across the bedknife?
Click to expand...

It hasn't been back lapped for a while, I guess I need to do some back lapping. Thanks for the insight.


----------



## budweiserfroggs

Hi everyone. I'm a new TruCut owner and am having a squealing sound coming from my reel that I'm wondering how to proceed with. I've linked a video of my C25 showing what the sound is like. Could this be an uneven bed knife? BTW I'm moving it forward in the video just to show what the sound is like in the normal direction. I backlapped backwards. When the unit was put together it makes the same noise with the engine on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bi6Fy-zN3c8&ab_channel=VintageCraft

The previous owner had the bedknife / reel ridiculously tight that it sometimes wouldn't spin when I first tried it. So I brought it home, back lapped it for about 10 minutes and here we are. It cuts paper decent but if I back off any further it won't cut. I don't see any noticeable dings on the bed knife that could contribute to this.


----------



## UFG8RMIKE

I would guess the reel isn't leveled/aligned properly, and it needs a good backlap. Tightening the screws on each side can take some trial and error to get the reel aligned properly with the bedknife all they way across


----------



## SGrabs33

budweiserfroggs said:


> Hi everyone. I'm a new TruCut owner and am having a squealing sound coming from my reel that I'm wondering how to proceed with. I've linked a video of my C25 showing what the sound is like. Could this be an uneven bed knife? BTW I'm moving it forward in the video just to show what the sound is like in the normal direction. I backlapped backwards. When the unit was put together it makes the same noise with the engine on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The previous owner had the bedknife / reel ridiculously tight that it sometimes wouldn't spin when I first tried it. So I brought it home, back lapped it for about 10 minutes and here we are. It cuts paper decent but if I back off any further it won't cut. I don't see any noticeable dings on the bed knife that could contribute to this.


Metal on metal without and lubrication it's going to squeal like that. Maybe a light backlapping where you have it now would help a little bit. But I would see how it is cutting grass.


----------



## budweiserfroggs

Update on the squealing:

I finally just took it in as I spent about 6 hours trying to get it running properly and failed. Plano Power in DFW said immediately that the bearings were shot and needed to be replaced. They wanted to backlap too so I told them to go ahead but they ran into problems while doing it. It was hitting in some spots and not touching in other spots. Required a full sharpening they said. Total costs for the bearing replacement and reel sharpening/backlap was $149.91. Picking it up later today! I've read good things about Plano Power here and my experience was good as well.

I could definitely feel that the reel was hitting in some spots and other spots it wasn't even close to touching. I'm not totally convinced the bearings needed replacing but it was only $17 a piece to replace them. All I need to do now is adjust the clutch and I should be good to go (already replaced all the chains, changed oil, cleaned air filter). I paid $680 for my C25 with a Honda engine thinking it was in great condition as the previous owner said he always had it professionally serviced. In retrospect I should have tried talking the guy down more but I didn't know how bad the unit was. In addition to the reel, the chains were in terrible condition. But it always starts on first pull which I'm super happy about. Thank you everyone for the comments!


----------



## jpos34

First year using a reel mower. Got a C-25 in the off season with the older Briggs engine. Scalped my yard last week and ran fine. I went to cut again today and got about half way through the yard and the engine started surging. Thought I ran out of gas but the tank was nearly full. Eventually the engine just cut off. Please tell me it's just a dirty carb from the scalp and nothing major.


----------



## SGrabs33

jpos34 said:


> First year using a reel mower. Got a C-25 in the off season with the older Briggs engine. Scalped my yard last week and ran fine. I went to cut again today and got about half way through the yard and the engine started surging. Thought I ran out of gas but the tank was nearly full. Eventually the engine just cut off. Please tell me it's just a dirty carb from the scalp and nothing major.


Did you check out the air filter? Probably covered in grass


----------



## jpos34

Crossed my mind but I didn't. Knowing my luck I figured it'd be more difficult than that. I will check that tomorrow. Thanks @SGrabs33


----------



## smurg

falainwest said:


> The reel of my C-25 usually stops spinning when scalping thick grass. What could possible be the cause of this, or is it just a normal thing with reel mowers?


Depends on how tall it is when scalping. I normally do it in stages since too thick of grass can build up around the reel and stall it out (it all doesn't get flung into the catcher for me).


----------



## olddart

Hi all,

Tru-cut H20 owner. Bought my mower late last year from the original owner's son. Mower was originally purchased in 1978 or 1979. Overall pretty good shape. I had to buy a new slightly used reel, and a couple other items.

Non-drive side tire is bald. Drive side tire has tread, but wobbles, and seems loose at the tire/wheel. The adjacent, larger sprocket can move half an inch in either direction (about 1" travel in total). I'm assuming this isn't supposed to happen. Any suggestions for things to check, or simple solutions? Could be a missing spacer or washer, or something...

Thanks in advance!


----------



## jpos34

I've only used my C-25 twice since I got it in November. Once to scalp and another mow after the scalp. Both times I had reel to bedknife correct with paper cutting. After I got done cutting both times there was no longer contact, and I have to adjust again. Before doing this next adjustment is there something I can do to try and prevent this? Can you over tighten the 3 bolts on each side? Don't want to break any bolts. Any suggestions would be great.


----------



## Two_Rivers

Just wanted to pop in and thank everyone who contributed to this thread. I've read through to get acquainted since acquiring a H-20.


----------



## jpos34

I've had a C25 for a couple months now l, but just bought an H20 for my dads house. Used it for the first time today. I couldn't figure out how to attach grass catcher. It's pretty easy on my C25 but with the 20. It was a struggle to force it on and then couldn't move height adjustment. Also with my C25 I could literally run behind it, it moves so fast so I feather the drive clutch. With the 20 it's no where near as fast even when fully engaged. Please help with fixes for both of these. I'll attach a few pics of the grass catcher.


----------



## turfman73

@jpos34

I have the H20 and wish I could help more but mine is in the shop at the moment getting sharpened so I cant compare with your pics. I have never mowed with the C25 so I can not compare speed but my throttle is slightly backed off max when running normally, so when I fully engage the wheels it is a nice steady pace, if I press the throttle to max it speeds up but definitely not running speed. Maybe a speed reducer, if its even available for H20?

As far as the catch bucket, I seem to recall there being an issue with it when the mower is at a high cut setting. - Are you mowing at a high setting? I believe it happens if you have the roller installed to give the highest cut setting and have HOC adjustment set to a high setting the red cross bar gets pushed into the bucket where the plastic starts. I got mine 5 years ago and made adjustment to the roller to achieve a lower HOC. My lawns never gets above 1" so I don't go up higher than 6/7 notches

I know lining up the bucket and getting it to catch on the hooks was a little tricky when I first got it but I can do it with my eyes closed now. I will say the catch bin for the Tru-Cut is a horrible design. Whoever designed it never mowed with a slight wind or scalped a yard of dead Bermuda.


----------



## jpos34

@turfman73 I got the bagger situation figured out. The meta bracket that wraps the plastic bin was just bent out of whack. Just a little twisting a contorting back into place and it works fine now. I haven't had a chance to look at the speed problem yet. It's not as big of a deal to me only cause I won't be the main one using it and probably doesn't have to be as fast as I would like it if it were my everyday mower.


----------



## Spammage

@jpos34 does the new mower have the speed reduction kit installed?


----------



## jpos34

@Spammage To be honest I'm not even sure what to look for to see if it has the reduction kit or not.

Edit: Do they even make a speed reducing kit for the H-20? I cant find anything on the H20 in regards to this. Just to clarify my C-25 I could run behind, but the H 20 is a much slower pace.


----------



## SGrabs33

jpos34 said:


> @Spammage To be honest I'm not even sure what to look for to see if it has the reduction kit or not.
> 
> Edit: Do they even make a speed reducing kit for the H-20? I cant find anything on the H20 in regards to this. Just to clarify my C-25 I could run behind, but the H 20 is a much slower pace.


Never seen a speed reducer on the 20.

Check the distance between the clutch. Might be excess gap that is causing it to slip. I have noticed that the 25 and 27 are a little faster than the 20s that I have had in the past.


----------



## jpos34

Thanks @SGrabs33 I will look at the clutch this evening when I get home.


----------



## Adrian82

budweiserfroggs said:


> Update on the squealing:
> 
> I finally just took it in as I spent about 6 hours trying to get it running properly and failed. Plano Power in DFW said immediately that the bearings were shot and needed to be replaced. They wanted to backlap too so I told them to go ahead but they ran into problems while doing it. It was hitting in some spots and not touching in other spots. Required a full sharpening they said. Total costs for the bearing replacement and reel sharpening/backlap was $149.91. Picking it up later today! I've read good things about Plano Power here and my experience was good as well.
> 
> I could definitely feel that the reel was hitting in some spots and other spots it wasn't even close to touching. I'm not totally convinced the bearings needed replacing but it was only $17 a piece to replace them. All I need to do now is adjust the clutch and I should be good to go (already replaced all the chains, changed oil, cleaned air filter). I paid $680 for my C25 with a Honda engine thinking it was in great condition as the previous owner said he always had it professionally serviced. In retrospect I should have tried talking the guy down more but I didn't know how bad the unit was. In addition to the reel, the chains were in terrible condition. But it always starts on first pull which I'm super happy about. Thank you everyone for the comments!


How was the unit after the bearings replacement? I had a grind sharpening and I cannot get the unit to properly cut paper across the reel.


----------



## Adamg77

Can someone please post a picture of the throttle return spring, governor spring, and the anti surge spring on their Tru cut? I have an older 27" that is surging quite badly. After a brand new carb I believe it has something to do with these springs.


----------



## SGrabs33

GX160?


----------



## Adamg77

SGrabs33 said:


> GX160?


It is actually an older model. It's a g200


----------



## SGrabs33

Adamg77 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> GX160?
> 
> 
> 
> It is actually an older model. It's a g200
Click to expand...

I doubt many people on here have that one. I would check out YouTube and see if they have anything more like the below...


----------



## LawnGeek

Hey guys, I currently own a Cal Trimmer and am in the market to upgrade. I am interested in an H20, but would like to educate myself on the pros and cons compared to the commercial versions. Or, H20 pros and cons, in general. Thanks in advance for any info you guys could share. Take care.


----------



## SGrabs33

LawnGeek said:


> Hey guys, I currently own a Cal Trimmer and am in the market to upgrade. I am interested in an H20, but would like to educate myself on the pros and cons compared to the commercial versions. Or, H20 pros and cons, in general. Thanks in advance for any info you guys could share. Take care.


Honestly think it would be a even trade. Do you need the rear tire drive to get up hills or anything? The Trimmer and TruCut are going to have a very similar quality of cut.

With that being said I think the main difference is that the H models come with a GC Honda motor where the P models come with the GX Honda motor.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

SGrabs33 said:


> LawnGeek said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I currently own a Cal Trimmer and am in the market to upgrade. I am interested in an H20, but would like to educate myself on the pros and cons compared to the commercial versions. Or, H20 pros and cons, in general. Thanks in advance for any info you guys could share. Take care.
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly think it would be a even trade. Do you need the rear tire drive to get up hills or anything? The Trimmer and TruCut are going to have a very similar quality of cut.
> 
> With that being said I think the main difference is that the H models come with a GC Honda motor where the P models come with the GX Honda motor.
Click to expand...

@LawnGeek 
I agree with this as well. For the money you could get a green's mower and have a superior cut. Adjusting HOC is not as easy as the Cal Trimmer or Tru-Cut but better in almost every other way.


----------



## LawnGeek

Theycallmemrr said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LawnGeek said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I currently own a Cal Trimmer and am in the market to upgrade. I am interested in an H20, but would like to educate myself on the pros and cons compared to the commercial versions. Or, H20 pros and cons, in general. Thanks in advance for any info you guys could share. Take care.
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly think it would be a even trade. Do you need the rear tire drive to get up hills or anything? The Trimmer and TruCut are going to have a very similar quality of cut.
> 
> With that being said I think the main difference is that the H models come with a GC Honda motor where the P models come with the GX Honda motor.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @LawnGeek
> I agree with this as well. For the money you could get a green's mower and have a superior cut. Adjusting HOC is not as easy as the Cal Trimmer or Tru-Cut but better in almost every other way.
Click to expand...

Thank you for your thoughts. Right now, my main goal is to get away from the continuously spinning drive wheel of the cal trimmer. The tru cut offers me the ability to move the mower and spin the reel independently of one another. I would love to have a greens mower, but my yard just isn't there yet in regard to it being smooth/level. Plus, I have a lot of obstacles to go around, I'm not sure if a greens mower would be suitable. Maybe one day!


----------



## GadgetVictim

Need some help in finding correct zerk fitting size for one missing on my P-20 clutch shaft (right or reel lever side).

I read through some of the forum chats wrt to zerk fitting size, but I'm still confused on exact fitting size. There were some conflicting info provided wrt exact size.

This is the Tru-Cut part number: T-11204, but could not find any cross reference info wrt size of fitting.

All I can assume from what I saw, that the zerk fitting is: press-fit vice screw-in type, and the size is somewhere between 3/16" and 5/16".

If anyone ever replaced these Tru-Cut zerks with non OEM parts, and knows zerk fitting size, would be very appreciative.


----------



## Lawn Burgundy

GadgetVictim said:


> Need some help in finding correct zerk fitting size for one missing on my P-20 clutch shaft (right or reel lever side).
> 
> I read through some of the forum chats wrt to zerk fitting size, but I'm still confused on exact fitting size. There were some conflicting info provided wrt exact size.
> 
> This is the Tru-Cut part number: T-11204, but could not find any cross reference info wrt size of fitting.
> 
> All I can assume from what I saw, that the zerk fitting is: press-fit vice screw-in type, and the size is somewhere between 3/16" and 5/16".
> 
> If anyone ever replaced these Tru-Cut zerks with non OEM parts, and knows zerk fitting size, would be very appreciative.


this is what i found that works on my C-27

Found them here for $3.40 for a pack of 10
https://www.mcmaster.com/1102K34/
if anyone is interested this is what the dimensions are


----------



## GadgetVictim

Lawn Burgundy said:


> GadgetVictim said:
> 
> 
> 
> Need some help in finding correct zerk fitting size for one missing on my P-20 clutch shaft (right or reel lever side).
> 
> I read through some of the forum chats wrt to zerk fitting size, but I'm still confused on exact fitting size. There were some conflicting info provided wrt exact size.
> 
> This is the Tru-Cut part number: T-11204, but could not find any cross reference info wrt size of fitting.
> 
> All I can assume from what I saw, that the zerk fitting is: press-fit vice screw-in type, and the size is somewhere between 3/16" and 5/16".
> 
> If anyone ever replaced these Tru-Cut zerks with non OEM parts, and knows zerk fitting size, would be very appreciative.
> 
> 
> 
> this is what i found that works on my C-27
> 
> Found them here for $3.40 for a pack of 10
> https://www.mcmaster.com/1102K34/
> if anyone is interested this is what the dimensions are
Click to expand...

Thank you. I read your original post wrt finding this zerk, but not found ur follow up stating that it fit correctly in ur TC.

My other concern was 3/16" zerks are such an odd size, that it's hard to find. 
The source u provided is great, and for me living way out here in the 50th State, additional shipping cost is always a killer.

The local TC distributors couldn't cross the part numer of zerk to it's physical size either, However, could order it for me via part number, but would take 3 to 4 weeks...that's way too long even for HI standards!!

Anyway, I found 3/16" zerks listed on Amazon with free shipping that should arrive in less then a week: 
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B16QJTC/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_M5PDPK8CTM3VRVXGGMWX

Mahalo Nui Loa for your quick response, Gadget


----------



## Lawn Burgundy

GadgetVictim said:


> Lawn Burgundy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GadgetVictim said:
> 
> 
> 
> Need some help in finding correct zerk fitting size for one missing on my P-20 clutch shaft (right or reel lever side).
> 
> I read through some of the forum chats wrt to zerk fitting size, but I'm still confused on exact fitting size. There were some conflicting info provided wrt exact size.
> 
> This is the Tru-Cut part number: T-11204, but could not find any cross reference info wrt size of fitting.
> 
> All I can assume from what I saw, that the zerk fitting is: press-fit vice screw-in type, and the size is somewhere between 3/16" and 5/16".
> 
> If anyone ever replaced these Tru-Cut zerks with non OEM parts, and knows zerk fitting size, would be very appreciative.
> 
> 
> 
> this is what i found that works on my C-27
> 
> Found them here for $3.40 for a pack of 10
> https://www.mcmaster.com/1102K34/
> if anyone is interested this is what the dimensions are
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you. I read your original post wrt finding this zerk, but not found ur follow up stating that it fit correctly in ur TC.
> 
> My other concern was 3/16" zerks are such an odd size, that it's hard to find.
> The source u provided is great, and for me living way out here in the 50th State, additional shipping cost is always a killer.
> 
> The local TC distributors couldn't cross the part numer of zerk to it's physical size either, However, could order it for me via part number, but would take 3 to 4 weeks...that's way too long even for HI standards!!
> 
> Anyway, I found 3/16" zerks listed on Amazon with free shipping that should arrive in less then a week:
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01B16QJTC/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_M5PDPK8CTM3VRVXGGMWX
> 
> Mahalo Nui Loa for your quick response, Gadget
Click to expand...

No worries Brah, anytime I'm no Haole! J/k haha


----------



## GadgetVictim




----------



## tcorbitt20

Mowing this morning when something happened with the clutch, I assume, on my C27. I used to be able to feather the throttle to go slower, but now the throttle slides all the way wide open and doesn't turn the wheels. I tried my best to adjust the clutch, but I can't seem to make it work much. I loosened everything on the block to slide it closer, but that didn't seem to make a difference other than making it where it will go a little with the throttle pushed all the way in. But now the reel won't turn. What's going on? Thanks!

EDIT: Upon further inspection, it looks the shaft running through the clutch has broken in the center. Half of it pulled out pretty easily from the reel drive side. Now trying to decide if I want to keep repairing this thing or just move on. I hate when stuff doesn't work right.


----------



## klsmith259

The individual parts are available or the entire clutch assembly which would require removing the chains and is bolt on from there as far as I know. I've ordered various parts numerous times from ReelRollers and the turnaround is very fast. Power Tool Outfitters was a little slower to ship out but they have some parts that ReelRollers does not have and the price may be higher or lower depending on the part. That said, it's up to you and what you desire (working on it or buying something new). I don't feel like the resale value would be too high without a working clutch.

https://reelrollers.com/product-category/tru-cut-replacement-parts/
https://powertooloutfitters.com/brand/tru-cut/


----------



## cnet24

tcorbitt20 said:


> Mowing this morning when something happened with the clutch, I assume, on my C27. I used to be able to feather the throttle to go slower, but now the throttle slides all the way wide open and doesn't turn the wheels. I tried my best to adjust the clutch, but I can't seem to make it work much. I loosened everything on the block to slide it closer, but that didn't seem to make a difference other than making it where it will go a little with the throttle pushed all the way in. But now the reel won't turn. What's going on? Thanks!
> 
> EDIT: Upon further inspection, it looks the shaft running through the clutch has broken in the center. Half of it pulled out pretty easily from the reel drive side. Now trying to decide if I want to keep repairing this thing or just move on. I hate when stuff doesn't work right.


I've been biting my tongue while reading your lawn journal but I sold my tru-cut last year and picked up a JD 220E greens mower due to the frustrations I kept having with it (reel to bed knife adjustment mostly) and so glad I did. I would HIGHLY recommend a greens mower not only because you have the right property for it but also the maintenance is completed very easily.


----------



## tcorbitt20

cnet24 said:


> tcorbitt20 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Mowing this morning when something happened with the clutch, I assume, on my C27. I used to be able to feather the throttle to go slower, but now the throttle slides all the way wide open and doesn't turn the wheels. I tried my best to adjust the clutch, but I can't seem to make it work much. I loosened everything on the block to slide it closer, but that didn't seem to make a difference other than making it where it will go a little with the throttle pushed all the way in. But now the reel won't turn. What's going on? Thanks!
> 
> EDIT: Upon further inspection, it looks the shaft running through the clutch has broken in the center. Half of it pulled out pretty easily from the reel drive side. Now trying to decide if I want to keep repairing this thing or just move on. I hate when stuff doesn't work right.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been biting my tongue while reading your lawn journal but I sold my tru-cut last year and picked up a JD 220E greens mower due to the frustrations I kept having with it (reel to bed knife adjustment mostly) and so glad I did. I would HIGHLY recommend a greens mower not only because you have the right property for it but also the maintenance is completed very easily.
Click to expand...

I did something.


----------



## cnet24

@tcorbitt20 heck yes! Congratulations! Also, love the truck. I drive an AT4 myself.


----------



## UFG8RMIKE

Go big or go home!


----------



## tcorbitt20

@UFG8RMIKE "If we gon' do it den, we gon' do it big den." - Jameis Winston


----------



## trojandnc

Is $1300 for a year old P-20 with flat front roller and Honda GX engine and about 4 or 5 mows under its belt a good deal?


----------



## klsmith259

That's hard to say. Do they have paperwork proving it's only a year old? Also, 4-5 times why so little use? If all is true and it's in great shape I don't think it's a terrible price but one could be had cheaper on the used market. It depends on your risk appetite. A brand new p20 with flat roller is $1800-1900 I believe.


----------



## Shottiherc

I was wondering if anyone has experienced this problem (C25)? When I engage the reel clutch, the drive clutch rod can be pulled all the way back, but the drive plate will make contact with the center shaft sprocket and move the mower forward. As soon as I disengage the reel clutch, the issue subsides. Any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.
P.G.


----------



## SoCalBermuda

Hoping someone can help me out with an old Kato Pro-Master I picked up from Offer Up a few weeks ago. The secondhand market for reel mowers in San Diego is very dry, I had two Mclanes and jumped on this 10 blade greens mower that looks like the step brother of a TruCut. Guy I got it from worked for Calloway and said he got it from a buddy of his who was a golf course superintendent. I've cleaned it up a bit, got a new air filter and greased her up. There was quite a bit of rust, I think due to costal climate, but nothing too scary. The guy lived two blocks from the beach and left it outside. Maybe I'll paint it one of these days. The reel to bedknife seems to be a little loose and needs to be tightened. I planned on messing with the reel to bedknife and backlapping this weekend but wanted some insight before loosening anything.


----------



## ricmaz

I was wondering if anyone has installed the speed reduction kit on a TruCut? I am trying to figure out the easiest way to get the new drive sprocket onto the drive shaft. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Rich


----------



## Logan0183

Hey this is my first post on the forums and I just bought a used tru-cut yesterday. I obviously have some questions. I don't know how old it is, but according to what I've seen regarding the chain guard it appears to be newer. It dies have the Honda GC160 motor. When pressing the right button for reel engagement, how hard is it supposed to be for it to be locked in? I will add that the reel does engage when pushed in, but its not currently touching the bedknife. When pushing the mower without the drive wheels engaged, is it supposed to be super easy to move? I was under the impression it wasn't supposed to be. Also in an attached picture, there is a nick on one of the blades....can I fix that with backlapping or will it need to be sharpened to fix that one spot.


----------



## falconsfan

Wheels should move freely with clutch out. If the blade is not touching the bed knife I'd get it sharpened and adjusted by a good shop. It will not cut well as is.


----------



## budweiserfroggs

My bearing on the right side of the reel has two zerks (see top and bottom in the picture). I"m assuming I only have to grease one zerk? The top one is impossible to reach. The bottom one I was able to get to with the below linked grease needle recommended here.

Grease needle:
https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubrication-5803-Grease-Needle/dp/B0002SR6XE/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=needle+grease+zerk&qid=1625237473&sr=8-7


----------



## jpos34

budweiserfroggs said:


> My bearing on the right side of the reel has two zerks (see top and bottom in the picture). I"m assuming I only have to grease one zerk? The top one is impossible to reach. The bottom one I was able to get to with the below linked grease needle recommended here.
> 
> Grease needle:
> https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubrication-5803-Grease-Needle/dp/B0002SR6XE/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=needle+grease+zerk&qid=1625237473&sr=8-7


 Yea just one of the them is all you need to do.


----------



## olddart

Hi all,

Working on about 4,000 sq ft of lawn. Most of the yard is a 60 year mix of common bermuda, prg, and whatever else. I recently put in 1250 sq ft of West Coast Turf's Bandera Bermuda.

Old part of the yard is not leveled well, new sod area is decent. Cutting with a Tru-cut H20, caster wheels. 5 blade reel, cutting paper all the way across.

On each pass, it looks like the mower is only cutting half. Double cutting doesn't seem to help, leaving squares of tall grass. Any suggestions for an adjustment? I have a buddies Mclane that I've adopted. Much more enjoyable for the daily mow…. I don't think I'd feel comfortable even selling this with how it currently cuts.


----------



## jpos34

I attempted my first HOC reset post sand level where I have been using rotary. I was only able to get a few passes done due tot he fact the blade kept getting "jammed up or locked up" in the thick grass. Do you think I should slowly take it back down notch by notch, or you think my clutch needs to be adjusted?


----------



## tcorbitt20

jpos34 said:


> I attempted my first HOC reset post sand level where I have been using rotary. I was only able to get a few passes done due tot he fact the blade kept getting "jammed up or locked up" in the thick grass. Do you think I should slowly take it back down notch by notch, or you think my clutch needs to be adjusted?


Sounds like you're maybe just taking off too much at a time. Try it a notch or two up and see what happens.


----------



## jpos34

tcorbitt20 said:


> jpos34 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I attempted my first HOC reset post sand level where I have been using rotary. I was only able to get a few passes done due tot he fact the blade kept getting "jammed up or locked up" in the thick grass. Do you think I should slowly take it back down notch by notch, or you think my clutch needs to be adjusted?
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like you're maybe just taking off too much at a time. Try it a notch or two up and see what happens.
Click to expand...

Thank you thats what ill try tonight.


----------



## Texas_Bermuda

NClawnnut78 said:


> Yeah I too use motorcycle chain cleaner and lube on my chains. I don't know about replacing pressfit zerks so just repeating what i was told. That question I did not ask.
> 
> ok so I read all over this forum thread and did not see anything posted on the correct order for reel to bedknife adjustment.
> it was close but not correct and it could have changed as trucut has been around how long. This is for my H20 so I dont know if it applies to other models.
> 
> Facing the reel standing in the front
> 
> 1) lower the reel to bedknife with your adjustment tools span wrench is prefered only not to cause issues. Chain can be on or off. make sure the reel to bedknife is straight across level
> 
> 2) hand tighten all the bolts and make sure your still straight accorss the bedknife and can rotate the reel not spinning just a test....slowly...
> 3) facing the front towards the reel tighten the top right hand side bolts the 9 o'clock and 2 o'clock the order of bolt of which first I did not ask, I should have but did not. It may not matter.
> 4) facing the front towards the reel tighten the bottom two left hand side bolts the 5 o'clock and the 9'oclock. once these are tightened and re-test to see if your still level straight across.
> 5 ) tighten the last ones looking from behind each side changes the gap to the bedknife. check the reel to make sure its straight and light to mild contact occurs not a hard scraping and can rotate freely...
> 
> Again I was told this is the process but getting it straight may require tweaking as we all know tru-cut adjustments take a bit of time.
> 
> I hope this post helps....I know i was very curious about this process.


Thanks for this post @NClawnnut78 . Can you post an example of a span wrench you use to tighten up the reel to the bedknife (assuming that's what these instructions are for). I just got a used h20 and having a helluva time getting the thing to cut paper tests. Thanks!


----------



## klsmith259

https://powertooloutfitters.com/product/tru-cut-t40429-spanner-wrench/

Link to spanner wrench with picture. A generic will work as well. Benefit of the specific tru cut is it's one size that fits. Still a pain to adjust.


----------



## AllenbSC

Looking for recommendation's for TruCut service / parts near Greenville, S.C.


----------



## Guest

https://reelrollers.com/ 
for the parts they have a complete online trucut parts catalog for different models homeowner and pro.


----------



## kmajoros

olddart said:


> Hi all,
> 
> Working on about 4,000 sq ft of lawn. Most of the yard is a 60 year mix of common bermuda, prg, and whatever else. I recently put in 1250 sq ft of West Coast Turf's Bandera Bermuda.
> 
> Old part of the yard is not leveled well, new sod area is decent. Cutting with a Tru-cut H20, caster wheels. 5 blade reel, cutting paper all the way across.
> 
> On each pass, it looks like the mower is only cutting half. Double cutting doesn't seem to help, leaving squares of tall grass. Any suggestions for an adjustment? I have a buddies Mclane that I've adopted. Much more enjoyable for the daily mow…. I don't think I'd feel comfortable even selling this with how it currently cuts.


I have a 27" and find that it cuts unevenly as well. From everything I've read this is the nature of Trucuts. I bought mine brand new about 3 years ago and have had this issue from the beginning. If I weigh down the front with a bag of fert of something (around 30 pounds) it seems to help, but I don't normally do that.

I measured all the tolerances and everything is spot on. For mine, the left side digs in a little more. This is especially evident on HOC around .75-1". I don't go higher. I even saw a thread where McClane's can cut unevenly as well...but I don't know for sure. It's really annoying.


----------



## olddart

@kmajoros Appreciate the response. I took mine to a local golf course to double-check it. They backlapped and checked tolerances. All looked okay-today was my first cut in a few weeks with my tru-cut (using a borrowed mclane in the meantime with little to no unevenness) and it's doing the same thing. Do you use a roller? I could see that helping some, but don't want to spend 150 bucks if I'm not going to keep it.

Maybe I should be more patient… between typing this, I triple cut a section and it's looking decent.


----------



## orangeokie

tcorbitt20 said:


> Mowing this morning when something happened with the clutch, I assume, on my C27. I used to be able to feather the throttle to go slower, but now the throttle slides all the way wide open and doesn't turn the wheels. I tried my best to adjust the clutch, but I can't seem to make it work much. I loosened everything on the block to slide it closer, but that didn't seem to make a difference other than making it where it will go a little with the throttle pushed all the way in. But now the reel won't turn. What's going on? Thanks!
> 
> EDIT: Upon further inspection, it looks the shaft running through the clutch has broken in the center. Half of it pulled out pretty easily from the reel drive side. Now trying to decide if I want to keep repairing this thing or just move on. I hate when stuff doesn't work right.


I just watched this video and found it very helpful and it may be pertinent to your situation. Pay particular attention to the need to grease the brass bushings on the shaft.


----------



## dkmesa

Does anyone know where I can find black replacement handlebar and height adjuster grips rather than white?


----------



## Lawn Burgundy

dkmesa said:


> Does anyone know where I can find black replacement handlebar and height adjuster grips rather than white?


Any slip on motorcycle grips will work I replaced mine with some from cycle gear I think I posted it in this thread somewhere back a bit
EDIT: found it


Lawn Burgundy said:


> So I was at cycle gear getting a new tube put in my front motorcycle tire and saw a pack of grips from pro taper for 10$ so I figured I would give it a try
> Seems to have worked out quite well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So much better feel of the grips no more crazy hard plastic, I mowed with it yesterday, and it made a world of difference! plus at 10$ easy to replace and you can find them anywhere


----------



## SouthernTiftuf

I've been in the market for a little looking for a good deal on a reel mower while I wait for the weeks auction next month. I came across this on marketplace for $700 and wondered what everyone's thoughts were on it? Comes with the catcher and roller and was serviced last year and used once since. Tires look good but I am new and wanted the experts opinions.


----------



## Guest

H-20 looks like it might need a grind soon. $700 is a bit high IMHO see if you can negotiate lower.


----------



## SouthernTiftuf

Nixnix42 said:


> H-20 looks like it might need a grind soon. $700 is a bit high IMHO see if you can negotiate lower.


Yeah $700 seemed high. I was thinking of offering $500 or $600


----------



## Guest

In this inflation economy reel mower prices are going up just like everything else.


----------



## andalexander

Hey all!

I'm Andrew, and I work at Reel Rollers. I've been drinking from the fire hose for about three years at Reel Rollers now, and I've had a front row seat with the art of reel mowing. In my time here, I've learned so much, and I've had several requests over my time here for a video and a clear explanation on how to backlap and ADJUST a Tru-Cut reel mower. I've heard all the horror stories. I get it, it's finicky. However, I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed, and if I can do it, I have to believe that anyone can. I went through all of the existing content on YouTube, and watched every minute of every video of others that offer content on the process of sharpening up a Tru-Cut. I even read the comments to see what people thought might be missing. This is what I've come up with- a full video on the process of blade maintenance on a Tru-Cut. I hope it serves you well, and that you get some utility from it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wU0CpYe1uR4


----------



## Guest

:thumbup: excellent video Sir


----------



## andalexander

Thank you sir!


----------



## robbybobby

My H-20 fires up and then craps out within 7-8 seconds while spitting out some white smoke. Any thoughts?


----------



## Guest

white smoke gas carb jet probably blocked with oil white smoke burning oil. disassemble carb and thoroughly clean carb jets.


----------



## robbybobby

Nixnix42 said:


> white smoke gas carb jet probably blocked with oil white smoke burning oil. disassemble carb and thoroughly clean carb jets.


appreciate you sir. project for me tonight


----------



## jahsoul

How is everyone doing? Quick question; I'm looking at buying a 4 year old P-20 for $450 but it states that it needs a new clutch disc. Unless my google fu is failing me, I could find anything on a clutch disc specifically and I was just wondering if I would need to replace the whole clutch or is that part sold individually and is it an easy repair? And am I paying too much?


----------



## klsmith259

It depends on the clutch and what part is bad. A new clutch is $400 for the entire assembly. Other things to consider is the wear of the tires, reel, bedknife, etc.

https://reelrollers.com/product-category/tru-cut-replacement-parts/tru-cut-20/p-model/


----------



## jahsoul

I'm about to send a message now asking about this specifically. It just mentions that the mower needs a clutch disc and it wouldn't be worth it to spend $450 for a mower and then have to spend another $400 minimum to have it working.


----------



## SGrabs33

Time to swap out some bald tires. Hope it isn't too bad!


----------



## klsmith259

SGrabs33 said:


> Time to swap out some bald tires. Hope it isn't too bad!


Looks like you only need 2 tires. The price of replacement parts has went up so much over the past year. Im curious how hard it ends up being replacing them. Ive seen varying accounts.


----------



## SGrabs33

klsmith259 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Time to swap out some bald tires. Hope it isn't too bad!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you only need 2 tires. The price of replacement parts has went up so much over the past year. Im curious how hard it ends up being replacing them. Ive seen varying accounts.
Click to expand...

Yeah. Actually doing it for a customer. I've gotten one roll pin out. Soaking the other right now so hopefully it will pop out easily. Then onto the shaft which might be a bit harder. We will see.


----------



## SGrabs33

jimbeckel said:


> Wheel replacement: challenging to say the least, requires removal of two roll pins in the axle on each side, remove c clips on the end of each axle, remove wheel bearings pressed into the frame and careful disassembly of the differential. Be careful driving the axle out, if you mushroom the axle end it will not come out and potentially will need to be replaced.


Any tips on getting the shaft out. Getting the roll pins weren't too bad and I've also got the outside bearings off. The shaft near the right wheel, standing from behind, looks like it's part of the wheel. I don't think this is the case, right? The whole shaft is just one single long piece? I can move the whole shaft left/right. The left wheel can move laterally on the shaft but the right doesn't seem to want to. Thanks.


----------



## jimbeckel

SGrabs33 said:


> jimbeckel said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wheel replacement: challenging to say the least, requires removal of two roll pins in the axle on each side, remove c clips on the end of each axle, remove wheel bearings pressed into the frame and careful disassembly of the differential. Be careful driving the axle out, if you mushroom the axle end it will not come out and potentially will need to be replaced.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any tips on getting the shaft out. Getting the roll pins weren't too bad and I've also got the outside bearings off. The shaft near the right wheel, standing from behind, looks like it's part of the wheel. I don't think this is the case, right? The whole shaft is just one single long piece? I can move the whole shaft left/right. The left wheel can move laterally on the shaft but the right doesn't seem to want to. Thanks.
Click to expand...

The shaft looks rusted, I'd try heat where there is rust on the shaft where it meets the frame, don't hit the end of the shaft with a hammer or it won't come out at all. You might end up buying a new shaft, seems like after mine wouldn't budge i punted and just bought a new one.


----------



## SGrabs33

@jimbeckel the shaft/hub is free of the frame. It's more that the shaft and wheel hub won't separate. I can spin the right wheel without the shaft also spinning. But that might be due to the gearing?



I did try some heat and it did show a little more definition between the shaft and the hub. Sure doesn't look like it will free itself though. Not even sure if I was planning to buy a new shaft how I'd get this free of the hub to get it out.


----------



## jimbeckel

SGrabs33 said:


> @jimbeckel the shaft/hub is free of the frame. It's more that the shaft and wheel hub won't separate. I can spin the right wheel without the shaft also spinning. But that might be due to the gearing?
> 
> 
> 
> I did try some heat and it did show a little more definition between the shaft and the hub. Sure doesn't look like it will free itself though. Not even sure if I was planning to buy a new shaft how I'd get this free of the hub to get it out.


Can you send me some detailed photos of where you think it is sticking, I'm working today and would need to look at the exploded diagram to refresh my memory on how this crazy thing comes apart.


----------



## SGrabs33

jimbeckel said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @jimbeckel the shaft/hub is free of the frame. It's more that the shaft and wheel hub won't separate. I can spin the right wheel without the shaft also spinning. But that might be due to the gearing?
> 
> 
> 
> I did try some heat and it did show a little more definition between the shaft and the hub. Sure doesn't look like it will free itself though. Not even sure if I was planning to buy a new shaft how I'd get this free of the hub to get it out.
> 
> 
> 
> Can you send me some detailed photos of where you think it is sticking, I'm working today and would need to look at the exploded diagram to refresh my memory on how this crazy thing comes apart.
Click to expand...

Shaft won't come out of the "right wheel hub assembly"


----------



## jimbeckel

Take the wheels apart, they are split rims, I think that is part of your problem


----------



## jimbeckel

https://youtu.be/y_zhtRs5lkM

This might help from YouTube university


----------



## SGrabs33

jimbeckel said:


> Take the wheels apart, they are split rims, I think that is part of your problem


Hmmm. Ok I can try and take the hubs off while they are still on the shaft I guess. Can see if that give some wiggle to the shaft coming off. In the vid you posted, I've watched it a few time prior, it looks like his wheels with hubs just slip right off of the shaft.

It does seem like mine might be a bit rusted together like you said before.


----------



## SGrabs33

jimbeckel said:


> Take the wheels apart, they are split rims, I think that is part of your problem


Wheels came apart just fine. Unfortunately the wheel hub is still stuck on the shaft. I've tried heat. Also been soaking it with pb blaster for over a day. Not much moving. I'm all ears if you have any other ideas  thanks again for the help. Looks like the hub and new shaft is like $135 or so. But still would have to cut the shaft in half or something to get it out of there. Not sure.


----------



## jimbeckel

SGrabs33 said:


> jimbeckel said:
> 
> 
> 
> Take the wheels apart, they are split rims, I think that is part of your problem
> 
> 
> 
> Wheels came apart just fine. Unfortunately the wheel hub is still stuck on the shaft. I've tried heat. Also been soaking it with pb blaster for over a day. Not much moving. I'm all ears if you have any other ideas  thanks again for the help. Looks like the hub and new shaft is like $135 or so. But still would have to cut the shaft in half or something to get it out of there. Not sure.
Click to expand...

Can you post up a picture of the current state of disassembly? I'd like too see what level of rust you're looking at on the hub and wheel shaft.


----------



## SGrabs33

@jimbeckel here are some pics. The wheel is loose but cannot get off because the Axle is stuck on the wheel hub. I've used ospho to get the rust off. Maybe I just need to hammer at it a bunch.





This is where the shaft is stuck in the wheel hub. I used the rust remover and soaked it with a bunch of pb blaster.


----------



## jimbeckel

One last thing I would try is a bottle jack in there sideways wedged between the frame and wheel hub, start pumping the jack and see if you can force the parts off of the axle.


----------



## klsmith259

Maybe a gear puller or bearing puller where the pin/shaft lines up with the tru-cut. A bottle jack works too &#128513;


----------



## klsmith259

@SGrabs33 Were you successful removing the axel? Curious if you have any tips or tricks to share? Or a disclaimer 😁


----------



## SGrabs33

klsmith259 said:


> @SGrabs33 Were you successful removing the axel? Curious if you have any tips or tricks to share? Or a disclaimer 😁


No luck unfortunately. Even bought a new torch to heat it up. No dice. Was actually just putting it all back together today and was having a hard time getting the roll pins back in.


----------



## klsmith259

SGrabs33 said:


> klsmith259 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @SGrabs33 Were you successful removing the axel? Curious if you have any tips or tricks to share? Or a disclaimer 😁
> 
> 
> 
> No luck unfortunately. Even bought a new torch to heat it up. No dice. Was actually just putting it all back together today and was having a hard time getting the roll pins back in.
Click to expand...

Damn. I was rooting for you. I may replace the drive shaft of my mower since I've been restoring piece by piece over time. I want to powder coat the mainframe and the last parts are the drive and clutch.


----------



## Adamg77

When replacing the drive clutch housing are there any other parts that need to be replaced with it? The bearings have been replaced recently. On reel rollers it does not have a picture of the part number 161. The sprocket appears that it is part of the part as well. Any help would be appreciated thank you


----------



## JFortner5

Hey guys I picked up a new toy this past weekend. I've been wanting a reel mower for a while but I couldn't ever seem to find one anywhere close to me (near Birmingham, AL). A coworker said he had one that wasn't used very much and I got it for $200. It's an H-20. Its pretty dusty from sitting for a few years but the Honda started on the 3rd pull. After a back lap it seems to be cutting pretty good.



I greased all the zerks I found except the one on the right side of the reel facing the mower. I'll post some more pictures later. Does a front roller make a big difference?


----------



## Brewdawg

Absolutely. Especially if your lawn isn't sanded to perfection. With casters, each depression on left or right will cause the cutting angle to change, giving an uneven cut. I don't know why they even come with casters instead of a roller as stock. I have the same model as you, and looks like you got a great deal. I paid about $800 for slightly used (less than a year) back in the mid '90's, and it still works great. I have it serviced annually, and have only replaced the clutch and rear wheels. Also replaced the blade, but only because I hit a sprinkler. They're great machines.

I've learned to backlap it myself, which is nice to be able to do a few times a year. Adjustments are insanely difficult to do right, until you learn. But this is the best vid I've ever seen for how to do it.


----------



## thelawnlife

try this one for adjustment/backlap of the reel/bedknife
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wU0CpYe1uR4&t=406s


----------



## jbcarter14

New Tru Cut owner here. I have looked but could find a guide on reel mower maintenance. How often to back lap, how often to grease the fittings, annual maintenance, etc. do you check to see if it's cutting paper every time, even if you just mowed a few days ago. I know a lot depends on grass type, frequency of mowing, yard size, etc. but just some general rules.


----------



## Schwebel7

klsmith259 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> klsmith259 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @SGrabs33 Were you successful removing the axel? Curious if you have any tips or tricks to share? Or a disclaimer 😁
> 
> 
> 
> No luck unfortunately. Even bought a new torch to heat it up. No dice. Was actually just putting it all back together today and was having a hard time getting the roll pins back in.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Damn. I was rooting for you. I may replace the drive shaft of my mower since I've been restoring piece by piece over time. I want to powder coat the mainframe and the last parts are the drive and clutch.
Click to expand...

I am currently in the middle of rebuilding the rear drive shaft/assembly, had the exact same issue with the right-side axel being stuck but a lot of heat and a big hammer got it to move at a sacrifice of mushrooming the shaft and cutting the end off. My machinists at work already made me a new shaft, bushings out of PEEK and in the middle of rebuilding the sprocket/axle assembly.


----------



## Mattrj87

Hey guys. I just picked up this tru cut p20. My question is the lever to adjust the height of cut doesn't go all the up to the highest setting. Which I guess is ok, as the lever goes all the way down to make the cut the lowest setting. But why can I not lift the HOC all the way to the top notch?


----------



## SouthernTiftuf

Super upset with myself. Was trying to adjust my reel to bed knife on my H20 and had the right side done and cutting paper. Was working on the left side and the bolt snapped


----------



## GAbermuda

Super dumb question here. I have a brand new C27 in my garage and won't start using it until July. Never used a reel mower in my life and I am not mechanically inclined, but I will learn. I want to make sure there is grease in all the zerks. I don't 100% trust the assembly of the new Indiana plant, I know how quality dips when you move assembly to a new plant. Anyhow just want to double check everything is greased fully and learn where all the zerks are and put caps on the zerk fittings to keep them protected and more importantly to make them easy to find next time I need to grease them. Anyhow the manual doesn't say how to remove the chain gaurd. To me it looks like 4 bolts total to remove the gaurd, two 7/16 on the front and two 1/2 on the back. Looks obvious but doublechecking that I need to remove these 4 bolts just because 4 bolts to hold a chain gaurd seems excessive and I dont trust myself yet to start taking off bolts on a brand new 3k machine. Thx


----------



## falconsfan

Use to have a C27 but don't remember how many bolts to remove the guard. I'd go slow and remove the obvious ones and then go from there. Also consider using ethanol free gas if available nearby. Makes a difference in small engines.


----------



## GAbermuda

falconsfan said:


> .......Also consider using ethanol free gas if available nearby. Makes a difference in small engines.


Always in all my small engines. Learned the hard way with carbs always gumming up over the years. Finally forced myself to learn how to clean small engine carbs. Luckily the nearest gas station to me sells ethol free gas


----------



## SGrabs33

Cross post for those interested in a NEW Split Grooved TruCut roller with TLF Discount and Giveaway!





If you have any questions please ask them on the post above as I don't want to litter this thread with too many posts.

Thanks!


----------



## Juddweiser

If the clutch disc for the reel remains in contact with the sprocket even after the lever is disengaged, does the clutch need to be adjusted tighter or looser?


----------



## joesmoe3

I just purchased a 2007 Tru-Cut H20-5, and I'm looking for an operator manual for it, please.

I gather TRU-CUT went out of business and sold the name. I see reference an the McLane site that Tru-Cut closed their parts factory in California in 2021, and the McLane (I don't understand the connection) has spare parts.

The current Tru-Cut website is apparently owned by an Indiana firm Midwest Tractors or some such - at least that's how they answer the phone number listed on the Tru-Cut web page, and while that page has manuals for download, the manual associated with the H20 is a parts manual.

The Tru-Cut machine has a fair level of complexity, and I would like to understand how to treat it right, while at the some time getting the most out of it.

This one has a Honda 5-hp motor.

Thank you.


----------



## falconsfan

joesmoe3 said:


> I just purchased a 2007 Tru-Cut H20-5, and I'm looking for an operator manual for it, please.
> 
> I gather TRU-CUT went out of business and sold the name. I see reference an the McLane site that Tru-Cut closed their parts factory in California in 2021, and the McLane (I don't understand the connection) has spare parts.
> 
> The current Tru-Cut website is apparently owned by an Indiana firm Midwest Tractors or some such - at least that's how they answer the phone number listed on the Tru-Cut web page, and while that page has manuals for download, the manual associated with the H20 is a parts manual.
> 
> The Tru-Cut machine has a fair level of complexity, and I would like to understand how to treat it right, while at the some time getting the most out of it.
> 
> This one has a Honda 5-hp motor.
> 
> Thank you.


https://usermanual.wiki/Document/TRUCUTOWNERSMANUALwithCover062013.3194143484/view

Here's a link to the operators manual. Operation is pretty simple, keep in mind most do not fully engage the drive clutch while mowing. We just feather it while the blade clutch remains fully engaged. The biggest maintenance item is keeping the zerks greased. I do mine every 10 hours or so. Upthread there is a diagram with all the zerk locations. 7 or 8 on the 20 inch iir. Find a good shop for sharpening and it will provide decades of service.

I believe Tru Cut was sold to the Indiana company which then moved the manufacturing. They also are the makers of the Champ engine which is now the only one available on new models.


----------



## joesmoe3

Where is the "triple LIKE" button when you need it ?

THANK YOU !!!

And yes, I need to find the sharpening around here. How to search for that, please ?

And parts ? I see in the manual, the chains don't last that long. Sounds like I need to have five or ten on hand, if they only last 100 hours.

What other parts should I have on hand / stock up ?

Thank you.


----------



## falconsfan

Don't worry about the chains I have owned a TC 20 for a decade (bought used) and used weekly. I have replaced exactly one chain in that time. Easy diy. Just search for local reel mower and you will find someone with a good rep. Grease gun and some chain lube and you'll be good.


----------



## RayTL

Morning all, has anyone had an issue with the C-27 stalling while on a tilted mowing angle? Every time I get the left wheel lower than the right on a hill it stalls. If I mow the opposite direction, with the right wheel below the left, no stall. Thanks in advance, Ray


----------



## mre_man_76

Have to look throughout this thread but could be the safety feature on the engine when it senses low oil level. In essence when the left wheel is lower than the right it triggers it. Could be as easy as checking oil levels and topping off.


----------



## UFG8RMIKE

RayTL said:


> Morning all, has anyone had an issue with the C-27 stalling while on a tilted mowing angle? Every time I get the left wheel lower than the right on a hill it stalls. If I mow the opposite direction, with the right wheel below the left, no stall. Thanks in advance, Ray


Add oil.


----------



## RayTL

UFG8RMIKE said:


> RayTL said:
> 
> 
> 
> Morning all, has anyone had an issue with the C-27 stalling while on a tilted mowing angle? Every time I get the left wheel lower than the right on a hill it stalls. If I mow the opposite direction, with the right wheel below the left, no stall. Thanks in advance, Ray
> 
> 
> 
> Add oil.
Click to expand...

Will try that, ty!


----------



## RayTL

mre_man_76 said:


> Have to look throughout this thread but could be the safety feature on the engine when it senses low oil level. In essence when the left wheel is lower than the right it triggers it. Could be as easy as checking oil levels and topping off.


Thank you, will check it out!


----------



## SGrabs33

joesmoe3 said:


> I gather TRU-CUT went out of business and sold the name. I see reference an the McLane site that Tru-Cut closed their parts factory in California in 2021, and the McLane (I don't understand the connection) has spare parts.


Others are correct, the trucut company got bought buy a manufacturer over the past year.

as far as parts, what your seeing is most likely the website, owned by Dolphin OPE a distributor in FLA that use to sell trucut and now sells mclane. they probably just have inventory of parts from when they used to sell trucut. @Reelrollers has plenty of trucut parts.


----------



## Twodollarblue

Does anyone know the diameter of a new C25 reel and width of a new bedknife?


----------



## GAbermuda

Twodollarblue said:


> Does anyone know the diameter of a new C25 reel and width of a new bedknife?


I just bought a new c27. I'm not 100% positive but pretty damn sure that the only change with the new ownership is the Champ engine. Everything else is the same.. if you want confirmation on that call ReelRollers and talk to Lee or Andrew


----------



## Twodollarblue

GAbermuda said:


> Twodollarblue said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know the diameter of a new C25 reel and width of a new bedknife?
> 
> 
> 
> I just bought a new c27. I'm not 100% positive but pretty damn sure that the only change with the new ownership is the Champ engine. Everything else is the same.
Click to expand...

Really looking for the numbers where I can compare to mine to see how worn they are.


----------



## upslash

Does a 25/27 inch Trucut (more tires) have considerably more climbing power than a 20 inch, or would the lighter weight of the 20 inch outperform on a slope?

I am interested in reel mowers, and obviously Trucut seems like a good entry point and also a good climber from what I'm reading. My front yard is pretty sloped and the back has a hill that might be more than a reel mower can/should handle. I found a clean Trucut 20 for sale for $1000 that comes with front roller, casters, and grass catcher.


----------



## falconsfan

I have never used a 25 but have owned a 20 and 27. Like you my yard has some slope and I can say that the 20 handles it much better. The 27 is huge and hard to handle vs the 20. The 27 struggled on the slope, no issues with my 20. Sold the 27 for a number of reasons.


----------



## upslash

falconsfan said:


> I have never used a 25 but have owned a 20 and 27. Like you my yard has some slope and I can say that the 20 handles it much better. The 27 is huge and hard to handle vs the 20. The 27 struggled on the slope, no issues with my 20. Sold the 27 for a number of reasons.


Good insight, thanks.

For reference, I'm adding a few pictures to help everyone understand the slope of my yard.


----------



## JavMan

I just bought a tru cut h20. Current gap between reel and bedknife is .012" with a feeler gauge. It also needs backlapping. I've watch the @Reelrollers video on backlapping a tru cut and Andrew mentioned moving the reel away from the bedknife to create space for the compound to work. He doesn't specify what that gap is? Does anyone have a recommendation.


----------



## falconsfan

@upslash glad I don't have to mow that back yard!


----------



## thelawnlife

no way I'd cut that much with just a 20" if I had an option for a 25" or 27". go with a larger cut and grooved roller for the slopes.


----------



## upslash

falconsfan said:


> @upslash glad I don't have to mow that back yard!


It's a good workout!


----------



## GoDawgs

JavMan said:


> I just bought a tru cut h20. Current gap between reel and bedknife is .012" with a feeler gauge. It also needs backlapping. I've watch the @Reelrollers video on backlapping a tru cut and Andrew mentioned moving the reel away from the bedknife to create space for the compound to work. He doesn't specify what that gap is? Does anyone have a recommendation.


I always go with .010 or .012. Basically you just want it as close as possible. But most importantly is that the gap across the entire reel is even between reel and bedknife.


----------



## joesmoe3

Another question - did not find in the manual - at least the one I have.

The handles for the one I have are adjusted for someone who is between four and five feet tall - painfully low for an average or taller person.

How is this adjusted please ?


----------



## Mikefao

Hi folks. Looking for some help with a TC C-27 mower. We've burnt through 2 clutches in a year. The first time I lost drive capability, this time I lost the reel side of things. Mower is less than 4 years old. I cut seashore paspalum,, short (setting 2-3) weekly, about an hour and a half runtime, so not over working the mower. The answer from the guy who has 'maintained' the mower is a new clutch. That get's expensive. Trying to figure out what might be causing this? Not operating correctly? Some preventive maintenance step I am missing? Any help appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## falconsfan

Have you been hitting those zerks with grease?


----------



## thelawnlife

Grease them zerks/bearings regularly make sure your chains are aligned properly and not too tight. You should have at least a 1/2" of deflection on them.


----------



## Twangin

Been eyeing an older looking C27 locally listed at $650. No grass catcher, no front roller, and seller says "the choke broke so I have a secondary choke modified on it".. so obviously would not pay full price. 
I'm really torn between this and a 25" McLane.
What's the lowest HOC on the TruCut C27? I've read info saying both 1/4" and 3/8" is the lowest. Would want to be able to scalp as low as possible.


----------



## falconsfan

IIR both hoc are correct, depending on if you have the wheels on high or low setting. Reel Rollers sells a sticker with the various hoc's. The TC is much easier to adjust the height on the fly and is built better IMO. All chain driven with zerks to keep everything lubed properly. It takes a little more maintenance but it's really only a few minutes every 10 cuts or so. If the wheels still have decent tread it's probably got some good life left. If they are bald it's got a lot more use on it. Try it out to make sure you're comfortable. The 27 is a beast and is tougher to handle than a 20 inch. Good luck.


----------



## Twangin

falconsfan said:


> IIR both hoc are correct, depending on if you have the wheels on high or low setting. Reel Rollers sells a sticker with the various hoc's. The TC is much easier to adjust the height on the fly and is built better IMO. All chain driven with zerks to keep everything lubed properly. It takes a little more maintenance but it's really only a few minutes every 10 cuts or so. If the wheels still have decent tread it's probably got some good life left. If they are bald it's got a lot more use on it. Try it out to make sure you're comfortable. The 27 is a beast and is tougher to handle than a 20 inch. Good luck.


Thanks. The tires still have a ton of tread left on it, and it has a B&S 5hp motor on it. If it had a roller on it already I'd be jumping on it. The fact that I have to get a grass catcher AND a roller really adds to the "true" cost of it.


----------



## jpbaker14

Hey - just picked up a used C27 this past weekend. Was wondering what everyone's opinion was on the condition of this bedknife?

Is this normal wear?

Do I need to replace it?

Thanks for any help.


----------



## thelawnlife

looking a little worn I'd replace it not too expensive $56


----------



## jpbaker14

thelawnlife said:


> looking a little worn I'd replace it not too expensive $56


Where are you finding one that cheap? They're $200ish on reelrollers.


----------



## thelawnlife

Bedknife blade. TRU CUT BEDKNIFE *BLADE* 27 PART #T37404 $56
TRU CUT BEDKNIFE *HOLDER* 27 PART #T37402 $146


----------



## jpbaker14

thelawnlife said:


> Bedknife blade. TRU CUT BEDKNIFE *BLADE* 27 PART #T37404 $56
> TRU CUT BEDKNIFE *HOLDER* 27 PART #T37402 $146


Aha. I see now. The assembly is 200ish. Thanks!


----------



## thelawnlife

:thumbup:


----------



## Twangin

How much remaining relief on the reel should one be looking for when looking at used Tru Cuts?

For reference, is the amount on @jpbaker14 a good benchmark for used and not need an immediate grind?


----------



## jpbaker14

Twangin said:


> How much remaining relief on the reel should one be looking for when looking at used Tru Cuts?
> 
> For reference, is the amount on @jpbaker14 a good benchmark for used and not need an immediate grind?


Good question. I'd like to know the answer to that as well. I backlapped it today and it's cutting paper all the way across now.

I'm hoping I'm good for the rest of this season. I'm struggling to find some one that will do a relief grind close to me.


----------



## Twangin

jpbaker14 said:


> Twangin said:
> 
> 
> 
> How much remaining relief on the reel should one be looking for when looking at used Tru Cuts?
> 
> For reference, is the amount on @jpbaker14 a good benchmark for used and not need an immediate grind?
> 
> 
> 
> Good question. I'd like to know the answer to that as well. I backlapped it today and it's cutting paper all the way across now.
> 
> I'm hoping I'm good for the rest of this season. I'm struggling to find some one that will do a relief grind close to me.
Click to expand...

Hopefully someone will chime in on this since it does play into the offer price when buying on the used market. I'm no expert by any means but by looking at your pics it looks like you still have a good bit of relief left on that reel.

A company called Reel Rollers just launched a feature on their website that helps folks find someone near them that offers reel grinding.. may be worth you checking that out.


----------



## Twangin

Well, I just picked up a new-to-me Tru Cut C27 as my first reel mower!


Overall I feel like it's in great condition for it's age, it functioned well while testing, and this thing just feels so SOLID and well-made.

I'm really excited and have a few questions I was hoping for some input on:

Any confirmation on what year model this would be? I'm think around 1997 per motor serial number. 




Any input on how much life is left on the reel? Needs a backlap as It's not cutting copy paper at the moment. Also might need a reel to bed knife adjustment as the contact seems to be extremely minimal, maybe even a tiny gap. Good thing is there are zero nicks or gouges. 


Here's a pic of the bedknife that shows the only dings I could find on it. Is this ok?


Any recommendation on locating replacement for this plastic part that's broke on the choke? Also curious why there's a choke labeled on the throttle, as well as the main choke lever on the engine?


Should the HOC adjustment lever be on the underside like this? Most TCs I've seen have them on top. 


Lastly, I want to go ahead and order a roller. Is the grooved roller really that much better than smooth? Will be cutting tifway 419.. both at low chipping green HOC and then around 1"-ish for the bulk of my yard.

Any other recommendations for first things to do are welcome- Thanks in advance for the help!


----------



## falconsfan

Don't have answers to all your questions but the HOC lever is definitely upside down. Correct that and then order a HOC sticker and grooved roller from Reel Rollers. If you're adding a roller, might as well go grooved. Also make sure you grease all the zerks on the mower. Somewhere in this thread is a diagram with all zerk locations, 7 or 8 IIR. Grease them every 10 cuts or so. Good luck!


----------



## Twangin

falconsfan said:


> Don't have answers to all your questions but the HOC lever is definitely upside down. Correct that and then order a HOC sticker and grooved roller from Reel Rollers. If you're adding a roller, might as well go grooved. Also make sure you grease all the zerks on the mower. Somewhere in this thread is a diagram with all zerk locations, 7 or 8 IIR. Grease them every 10 cuts or so. Good luck!


Thank you! Any particular grease/gun fittings I need to use?

Was planning on getting grooved roller but wanted to make sure the extra $ for it wasn't a waste.


----------



## falconsfan

Any grease and gun will work. Wipe off any excess or it will end up on your lawn.


----------



## klsmith259

Twangin said:


> falconsfan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Don't have answers to all your questions but the HOC lever is definitely upside down. Correct that and then order a HOC sticker and grooved roller from Reel Rollers. If you're adding a roller, might as well go grooved. Also make sure you grease all the zerks on the mower. Somewhere in this thread is a diagram with all zerk locations, 7 or 8 IIR. Grease them every 10 cuts or so. Good luck!
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you! Any particular grease/gun fittings I need to use?
> 
> Was planning on getting grooved roller but wanted to make sure the extra $ for it wasn't a waste.
Click to expand...

Just a heads up the adjuster plate that is on upside down is too small for the HOC sticker. The sticker is based on a newer version of the plate. It also may be upside down to prevent the HOC rod from hitting the exhaust. I had that problem when i replaced the briggs engine with a predator and also bought the newer adjustment plate and it solved the problem.


----------



## Twangin

klsmith259 said:


> Twangin said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> falconsfan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Don't have answers to all your questions but the HOC lever is definitely upside down. Correct that and then order a HOC sticker and grooved roller from Reel Rollers. If you're adding a roller, might as well go grooved. Also make sure you grease all the zerks on the mower. Somewhere in this thread is a diagram with all zerk locations, 7 or 8 IIR. Grease them every 10 cuts or so. Good luck!
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you! Any particular grease/gun fittings I need to use?
> 
> Was planning on getting grooved roller but wanted to make sure the extra $ for it wasn't a waste.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just a heads up the adjuster plate that is on upside down is too small for the HOC sticker. The sticker is based on a newer version of the plate. It also may be upside down to prevent the left clutch rod from hitting the exhaust. I had that problem when i replaced the briggs engine with a predator and also bought the newer adjustment plate.
Click to expand...

Good to know- So do you think I may need to just leave the hoc adjuster plate upside down?


----------



## klsmith259

If you use the current briggs engine it shouldnt be a problem either way. If you swap to a honda style engine it most likely will scrape/rub the muffler.

the choke lever i would search for the carb/engine model #. Those levers arent always the same so it may be trial and error.

As for the roller if you have any hills or inclines i would get the grooved. I believe most people prefer and buy the grooved roller. Either will be fine on a flat lawn.


----------



## ricmaz

The guy that sharpens my C27 ordered a bed knife for it from Reel Rollers about 3 weeks ago. Still hasn't arrived. Anyone have a source for the bed knife? Anyone else having this issue?


----------



## Reel_Alabama

ricmaz said:


> The guy that sharpens my C27 ordered a bed knife for it from Reel Rollers about 3 weeks ago. Still hasn't arrived. Anyone have a source for the bed knife? Anyone else having this issue?


I'm waiting on the 27" bedknife from RR too. I called them and they said it's on backorder and expect them soon.


----------



## Twangin

My bedknife has these three nick's on it- I'm about to do my first backlap on a fairly dull reel. Are these nicks ok?


----------



## klsmith259

Someone more knowledgeable can chime in, but I don't think a backlapping will fix the nicks. You need to take it in and have the bedknife and reel sharpened at minimum. If you need a new bedknife it is cheap to replace. The reel is much more expensive.


----------



## klsmith259

Reel_Alabama said:


> ricmaz said:
> 
> 
> 
> The guy that sharpens my C27 ordered a bed knife for it from Reel Rollers about 3 weeks ago. Still hasn't arrived. Anyone have a source for the bed knife? Anyone else having this issue?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm waiting on the 27" bedknife from RR too. I called them and they said it's on backorder and expect them soon.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what is going on, but it seems like a lot of parts are being ordered from the new company directly when needed. I replaced the HOC plate and it took 2-3 weeks for RR to receive it and after that it was promptly shipped to me.


----------



## klsmith259

klsmith259 said:


> Reel_Alabama said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ricmaz said:
> 
> 
> 
> The guy that sharpens my C27 ordered a bed knife for it from Reel Rollers about 3 weeks ago. Still hasn't arrived. Anyone have a source for the bed knife? Anyone else having this issue?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm waiting on the 27" bedknife from RR too. I called them and they said it's on backorder and expect them soon.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what is going on, but it seems like a lot of parts are being ordered from the new company directly when needed. Maybe managing inventory costs or just due to new logistics. I believe there was a warehouse in Georgia previously but that's not the case anymore? I replaced the HOC plate and it took 2-3 weeks for RR to receive it and after that it was promptly shipped to me.


----------



## jmichnowicz

Has anyone found another tru cut distributor or been able to get parts directly from tru cut? I understand new ownership at tru cut has been a problem with sending parts. It's been over a month for an order at reel rollers. Seems no one can give an estimate of when the parts will be shipped.


----------



## jpos34

@klsmith259 What predator engine did you use to replace your briggs. I have an older model briggs on a c-25 that im thinking about replacing, and how easy was the swap?


----------



## klsmith259

jpos34 said:


> @klsmith259 What predator engine did you use to replace your briggs. I have an older model briggs on a c-25 that im thinking about replacing, and how easy was the swap?


212cc predator. The swap is easy. Potential issues or challenges include length of chain, removing the sprocket from the current engine/shaft to transfer to new engine, hoc adjustment rod and muffler clearance depending on old or new index plate, and rotating the pull cord orientation.


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## Reelrollers

The delay is REAL getting parts right now. It's not all parts, but there is a considerable back log on bedknives, reels, and clutches.

This will be a short lived problem for Tru Cut. Their challenge is they did not have an off season or spring to build up inventory, they were moving facilities during that time. 2023 will be much better


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## Luthersrose

I have a tru cut p20. I replaced the clutch assembly a few weeks back and it worked fine for a few cuts. I cut the front yard at lunch time and it worked fine. Went out after work to cut the back. It worked fine for a few passes then when I tried to push the thumb control for the drive part of the clutch it wouldn't go in or engage that side of the clutch. However the thumb control that engages the reel also is now controlling the drive part of the clutch. I.e. I push in the control to turn on the reel the drive part works as well. I also noticed that when the mower is turned off the the reel and the drive chain moves and it doesn't normally do that. The whole clutch spins around. Anyone have any ideas what the problem might be? Thanks in advance.


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## jmichnowicz

Luthersrose said:


> I have a tru cut p20. I replaced the clutch assembly a few weeks back and it worked fine for a few cuts. I cut the front yard at lunch time and it worked fine. Went out after work to cut the back. It worked fine for a few passes then when I tried to push the thumb control for the drive part of the clutch it wouldn't go in or engage that side of the clutch. However the thumb control that engages the reel also is now controlling the drive part of the clutch. I.e. I push in the control to turn on the reel the drive part works as well. I also noticed that when the mower is turned off the the reel and the drive chain moves and it doesn't normally do that. The whole clutch spins around. Anyone have any ideas what the problem might be? Thanks in advance.


I believe the assembly is just too tight. Loosen the nuts on the left side (facing the reel) and that should solve your problem.


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## Hawaiimower

dfw_pilot said:


> Do you have a TruCut reel mower and have a question about working on it? Do you have something to share? Ask or share here.​





SGrabs33 said:


> First, it's great to have another NCer in here. What part are you from?
> 
> That's a pretty expensive guess. How much did the new clutch assembly run you. I have dealt with my share of TruCut problems but I do not know to tell when the clutch needs replacing. I'm not sure if there is anyone else on here knows any of the tell tale signs of when it goes bad???
> 
> What size chain are you using to do the replacement. I think the correct # is 40. That's weird that the link is breaking. Maybe the chain is too loose and that's causing extra wear and stress on the link. I'm not too sure. The best way to replace the chain is to count the links of the old chain and match that number to the new chain. That way the only difference in the two should be the stretching of the original.
> 
> Do you know what is included in the whole assembly that you purchased? Drive sprocket and both clutch cups for both sides? It shouldn't be too hard to replace as long as you are good at keeping track of what goes where and are somewhat mechanically inclined. If you were able to do a write up of the process with lots of pictures I think that would help a lot of people out in the future. I've been told my clutch may need replacing sometime soon.
> 
> You will definitely have to do some adjusting but MightyQuinn has done a great outline of that process above. It will be slightly different for the P20 but you should get the jist.
> 
> Do you have a picture of your reel and the chain area? I doubt we would be able to tell what is going with a pic but might as well try.
> 
> Also, what makes you think that the new chain you have will fit with the new clutch assembly? The drive sprocket replacement is not going to change in size enough to make a difference for that, I don't think.
> 
> Finally, I've been typing this on my phone in bed so I apologize for typos or if any of my comments seem aggressive. I've been going with train of thought typing.
> 
> Welcome to the forum!


I also have a P20 mower and the repair shop said I will probably need to replace the clutch assembly since the reel binds sometimes and I need to stop it and manually clear the grass from the blade. Online from Reel Rollers the whole assembly is about $350. Does anyone know if I need to get a skinny wrench to adjust the 2 locking nuts on the shaft?


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