# Which general fertilizer should I use?



## MasonDixon (Jun 2, 2020)

I have been neglecting my lawn the past few years. I have a mixture of Kentucky blue grass, rye and fescue plus weeds. I live near the MD/PA border. A neighbor suggested I apply fertilizer this week because of the time of year and we have small showers in the forecast over the next few days. I read a suggestion about using mostly slow release Milorganite with some 64-0-0 pure urea mixed in.

I've read online that pure urea could burn the lawn if applied when it's too hot. How many days must it be overcast in a row when applying urea? I will be using a spreader to cover the lawn.

While I realize a soil test will be best, I'd like to apply this late spring fertilizer now and then have my soil tested later in the summer so I can better fertilize in the fall. Does this sound like a good idea for the fertilizer mixture? Are there any other recommendations?


----------



## stotea (Jul 31, 2017)

I do not recommend urea 46-0-0 in your case. Like you said, it can indeed cause turfgrass injury relatively easily. It's more of an intermediate/advanced fertilizer. My general recommendation to people is usually something organic like Milorganite or Lesco 24-0-11.


----------



## MasonDixon (Jun 2, 2020)

stotea said:


> I do not recommend urea 46-0-0 in your case. Like you said, it can indeed cause turfgrass injury relatively easily. It's more of an intermediate/advanced fertilizer. My general recommendation to people is usually something organic like Milorganite or Lesco 24-0-11.


Thank you for the quick and helpful reply. 
Between those two, Lesco has much more nitrogen. Moligranite has phosphorus but no potassium while Lesco has no phosphorus.

Of those two, which is the better late-spring feeding for a lawn that hasn't been fertilized in a few years? Or a combination of the two? Or something else?


----------



## Batsonbe (May 9, 2019)

I haven't had any issues with high nitrogen fertilizers. My soil test came back as sufficient and or excessive phosphorus and potash. They recommended 34-0-0 to me. I just make sure I apply less than 1/2lb N each app with rain in the forecast preferably, and don't apply the fert if I need to mow before it's going to rain. 
34-0-0
.34 Nitrogen x 1.25lbs of fertilizer = .425 Total nitrogen. Then multiple that by sq ft of yard. 7,500/1000sqft = 7.5 1.25lbs fert x 7.5 total area 
I need 9.375lbs of fert to cover my yard area.

Some guys probably feel that information is common knowledge but I'm sure it could help other people. Definitely don't buy a bag of fertilizer and put the whole thing out on your lawn. Do some basic math, so you know what you're putting down. I keep a log every year of fertilizer apps. I'd recommend that as well.


----------



## MasonDixon (Jun 2, 2020)

Batsonbe said:


> 34-0-0
> .34 Nitrogen x 1.25lbs of fertilizer = .425 Total nitrogen. Then multiple that by sq ft of yard. 7,500/1000sqft = 7.5 1.25lbs fert x 7.5 total area
> I need 9.375lbs of fert to cover my yard area.
> 
> Some guys probably feel that information is common knowledge but I'm sure it could help other people. Definitely don't buy a bag of fertilizer and put the whole thing out on your lawn. Do some basic math, so you know what you're putting down. I keep a log every year of fertilizer apps. I'd recommend that as well.


None of this is common knowledge for me. It's good you shared. Should N, P & K all be present in a late spring fertilizer?


----------



## cglarsen (Dec 28, 2018)

20-20-20 or close to it for first app of the year.


----------



## MasonDixon (Jun 2, 2020)

cglarsen said:


> 20-20-20 or close to it for first app of the year.


Is Milorganite not the correct fertilizer to use in my situation? Is that used by someone who has already regularly been applying fertilizer?

With a quick search I haven't found any granular 20-20-20. Is that an option? Or is water soluble the best option to apply now?


----------

