# Eagle fungicide



## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

So the last 2 years I was late getting fungicide down and ended up with disease and death/ugly lawn.

I am heading to one die tomorrow and wanted to pick up a bag of granular eagle. When would be best to get this down considering I missed the window the last 2 years with propocanizol


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## Turfguy93 (Aug 30, 2017)

Eagle needs to be re applied every 14 days and you should rotate. When to put it down depends on the disease you're trying to treat and the conditions that cause that disease


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

I just want to be preventative.

They didn't have eagle, so ended up with a bag of lesco t storm


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## Turfguy93 (Aug 30, 2017)

To be preventative you'll have better results if you know what you're trying to prevent. Some fungicides are more effective against certain diseases and some may not be effective at all against what you're trying to treat. For example if you are trying to prevent brown patch 1. say you have tall fescue 2. night time temps are above 68 degrees 3. humidity is high 4. Leaves are staying wet for extended periods of time 8+ hours a day. Then you would want to spray your preventive fungicide like a azoxystrobin or thiophanate methyl would be effective as well


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## Turfguy93 (Aug 30, 2017)

@kolbasz if you feel like doing some reading google the disease triangle and it will help to make more sense!


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

+1 to Turfguy93

Also if it is a foliar fungus, then a foliar application is best. If it a root one, then a soil application is best.


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## Turfguy93 (Aug 30, 2017)

g-man said:


> +1 to Turfguy93
> 
> Also if it is a foliar fungus, then a foliar application is best. If it a root one, the a soil application is best.


I agree g-man I'm not a big fan of the granular fungicides. Unless you're treating like a Pythium root rot, fairy ring, summer patch, necrotic ring spot. Strictly root pathogens


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

@g-man @Turfguy93 
Well crap. I guess I have no good clue. I only know the last 2 years I have seen things like red thread, what I believe is rust and something else causing spotting.

I was assuming with the rotation of fungicides that most broad products covered everything. I also assumed there was a general preventative application of these to try an get ahead of things.

Maybe I'm not cut out for this grass stuff.


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## Turfguy93 (Aug 30, 2017)

kolbasz said:


> @g-man @Turfguy93
> Well crap. I guess I have no good clue. I only know the last 2 years I have seen things like red thread, what I believe is rust and something else causing spotting.
> 
> I was assuming with the rotation of fungicides that most broad products covered everything. I also assumed there was a general preventative application of these to try an get ahead of things.
> ...


Sure you are! For the likes of red thread and rust your window is right now but I would use a different chemistry such as the propiconazole and increase the N. For summer the t storm would work if the patches are brown patch or summer patch since you have prg/kbg. But it still has to be applied every 14-21 days. And rotation is still important.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Gotta agree with @Turfguy93 that you are game for turf care.

Your lawn looked amazing in the photo you posted in another thread. :thumbup:


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

Turfguy93 said:


> kolbasz said:
> 
> 
> > @g-man @Turfguy93
> ...


I have done the propiconazole in the past, so the thought was to avoid the same fungicide, which yielded the t storm.

I guess I didn't realize it was a 2-3 week fix.

I just thought of it as a maintenance application, 3-4 per year. A landscaper once told me memorial day, July 4th and labor day


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

@kolbasz You are learning and taking an active role to improve your lawn.

In my experience in Indy, I dont need to do a preventive fungicide program. I keep good cultural controls and keep my eyes open to trouble areas. I have a product at hand to treat if needed. These practices include: irrigate in the am, dont let the hoc to be too high when humidity is high, dont over fertilize, don under fertilize.

I think Eagle (Myclobutanil) is an excellent foliar fungicide. I have this bottle at home. I use it for dollar spot and leaf spot.

T storm is a good product for root issues as Turfguy93 indicated.

Once you learn which fungus is giving trouble this year, then you could start a preventive program for the following year.

By the way, could you update your profile to add your lawn size and largest town? It helps me in my recomendations


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

So, to be clear, we are saying there is no point at this time to apply this t storm, even for preventative purposes at this time. The plan was early May, but I guess I will hold off for the time being.

I added some details to my profile


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Like I said above, I'm not in the preventive camp. Others might chime in. Fungus do start to build resistance to the fungicides, so I prefer not to use them. If you do, you have to switch them around. I know folks in the transition zone have to do the preventive approach since their weather is warmer/humid for longer period of time. I think @LawnNerd does preventive.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

Maybe this is what also throws me off. The whole transition zone. For instance I saw @Pete1313 doing propocanizol recently and I wonder what am I missing.

In the past, once the grass began growing and I mowed a few times, I jumped right to my max cut height 3.5". Partially because of the POA a, I thought if the good grass gets long it can out compete the POA a.

I cut the other day, I am at maybe 2 or 2.5 I will have to look. Maybe I will focus keeping things shorter for a bit, maybe even the summer.

I was always worried about the summer heat and thought the answer was proper irrigation and high HOC. Maybe this year we mix it up a little.


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## LawnNerd (Sep 2, 2017)

Few things.

I do preventative fungicide, but i live pretty close to the southeastern edge of the transition zone line. For ME, fungal disease is not an IF, but a WHEN... as I hit all 5 of the 4 listed below. 


Turfguy93 said:


> ...1. say you have tall fescue 2. night time temps are above 68 degrees 3. humidity is high 4. Leaves are staying wet for extended periods of time 8+ hours a day....


In these conditions listed, it's easier for me to prevent than to combat BP.

However, i do not believe you have an urgent need for preventative fungicide measures.



kolbasz said:


> Maybe this is what also throws me off. The whole transition zone. For instance I saw @Pete1313 doing propocanizol recently and I wonder what am I missing.


Can you link to this post? I can't seem to locate it, but i did see where he said he was NOT doing any preventative's this year.

With that said, I am going to attempt to explain why you might see some people dropping preventative fungicides in the spring. Summer Patch, while symptoms are seen in the summer, actually begins in the spring when soil temps reach 65 degrees. What you are seeing on the surface in the summer is a result of the rooting damage done in the spring from the fungus.

And unless you know you have Summer Patch, then there is no need to worry about this. If you have a disease present, try to identify it first. If you can't ID, post a pic, and see if anyone here can help point you in a good direction.


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## Pete1313 (May 3, 2017)

I have never used propiconazole. I recently put down prodiamine and don't plan on doing a preventative fungicide plan this year but instead see how the yard fares and act with a curative if needed.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

Pete1313 said:


> I have never used propiconazole. I recently put down prodiamine and don't plan on doing a preventative fungicide plan this year but instead see how the yard fares and act with a curative if needed.


I can't read. It was from here:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=436&start=440#p44804


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

LawnNerd said:


> Can you link to this post? I can't seem to locate it, but i did see where he said he was NOT doing any preventative's this year.


see above


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