# llO0DQLE's 2018 Front Lawn Reno (Bewitched Monostand)



## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

I am currently in the middle of a reno. I am on Day 15 today. Going with a Bewitched Monostand. Some pics of the lawn before the kill.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Timeline:

May 18 - Applied 1 lb NPK per 1,000 ft2
May 20 - Round Up
May 24 - Scalped and levelled
May 28 - Seed Down, applied Milo 1#N/M
June 6 (Day 10) - Germination. Only a few sprouts in a few spots.
June 12 (Day 16) - Reseeded washout area.
June 13 (Day 17) - Applied 0.25# N/M urea, repeated reseeding in bare areas (windy yesterday, didn't feel like I dropped 
seed properly).
June 19 (Day 23) - Applied 0.5# N/M urea, BLSC, Kelp Help, Milk and Molasses, reseeded problem area by tree
June 21 (Day 25) - Germination on reseeded washout area. Took 10 days to germinate. Same as the first batch.
June 24 (Day 28) - First mow, barely cut anything
June 27 (Day 31) - 2nd mow
June 28 (Day 32) - Reseeded bare/thin areas (washout area, back part, small bare spots)
June 29 (Day 33) - Tenacity 4oz/A
June 30 (Day 34) - 0.5lb N/M + 1lb P/M (urea & MAP)
July 3 (Day 37) - Reseeded bare areas by tree and front left corner and top dressed with peat moss.
July 8 (Day 42) - 0.5lb N/M urea, reseeded bare/thin areas in the back.
July 11 - Natria 2oz/M
July 17 - BLSC, Kelp Help, Cream (was out of milk lol), molasses
July 18 (Day 52)- 0.5lb N/M urea
July 20 (Day 54) - Overseeded all thin/small bare areas - front left corner, near tree, washout area, back section
July 22 - Milo @ 0.8lb N/M
July 27 - Natria 2oz./M
July 30 - Overseeded bad spot in the back, area by tree and other thin areas in the back, as well as front left corner
July 31 - Tenacity 4oz./A
Aug 1 - 0.22lb N, 1lb P & K /M (MAP & MOP)
Aug 6 - 1lb N/M Milorganite
Aug 8 - Prodiamine 0.5lb/A (3 month duration)
Aug 11 - Natria 3oz./M
Aug 12 - 0.5lb N/M urea
Aug 15 - BLSC + Kelp Help + Milk + Molasses
Aug 19 - 0.5lb N/M urea
Aug 22 - Natria 2oz./M
Aug 23 - Tenacity 4oz./A
Aug 26 - 0.5lb N/M + 1lb P&K from urea/MAP/MOP
Aug 29 - FAS
Sept 2 - 0.5LB N/M urea, Tenacity 4oz./A, Natria 4oz.
Sept 4 - FROST ADVISORY
Sept 6 - BLSC, Kelp Help, Molasses, Milk
Sept 27 - FAS


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

May 30 (Day 3)



Currently dealing with some washout areas due to a storm yesterday. I will reseed this area probably tomorrow as germination is spotty in this area.


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

:wave: pare! Looking forward to the progress.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Thanks kabayan! I'm a little late to posting my reno here as I'm quite busy these days with a new baby and I didn't see a "Renovations" sub forum. I have a thread at ATY too and I have a bit more detail there but I'll just pick it up from this point here.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I wanted to ask in ATY, but I was banned, are you doing a full yard or just this strip?


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

lol crazy how many people are banned. I'm just doing this strip..which is all of my front lawn.  It will be a test run for a monostand as this is my first mono. Depending on how things go, I may do the backyard next year. We'll see.


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

As you know I was following your thread over on ATY but I don't really like posting there much anymore so I'm really glad you made a thread here. Looking forward to seeing the progress.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Yeah I had intended on posting here from the get go but didn't find a reno forum so I went on ATY first. Thanks man, your lawn is looking great. I can't wait for mine to get established.


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## PHXCobra (Mar 20, 2018)

Looks like good progress. Really dig cool season Reno's because you have to commit. Payoff is slower but just as rewarding.

What's your goal for height of cut on it? Since it's a smaller area I can't imagine you can get many stripes


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

I can stripe a bit, but not that much. I don't really go for stripes per say, just the tracks of my mower. I like taller grass so I would probably shoot for 4" eventually, maybe in the 3rd year as I know it takes time for the density to get to the point where it can support that HOC. I start off around 2.5" then raise it from there. I like tight crew cut look of shorter HOC but also love the darker color and the more meadowy look of higher HOC. Since I lower the cut in the fall anyway, I find that I will sort of get the best of both worlds that way.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

I filled in the low spots in the washed out area today and reseeded that area and tossed some seed in other areas with no/little germination. I didn't top dress as I'm out of peat moss and had a bit better germination in my pots last year without any topdressing. https://aroundtheyard.com/forums2/viewtopic.php?t=22915 We'll see how it goes. I'm contemplating fertilizing on Day 21. It's Day 16 today.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I had the same issue with a timer. Out of the blue it keep running. At first I was think one of the neighbor kids was messing with it, but it happen again. I ended up changing the batteries.

edit: in reference to your 05Jun18 post.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Thanks g-man. Maybe that's what it is as I've never changed the batteries on mine. They've been in there since 2015. lol I was wondering too if someone messed with my timer.


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

Wow day 16 already. I feel early fertilizing helped establish my reno faster and get things going. I can't remember the exact amount I put down but I started light weekly urea apps at day 15. Weather conditions and time of year were obviously different for me than you though. If I reno my backyard this fall I'll do the same thing again and start the urea apps early.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

You put down 0.25lb N. I got germination on Day 10. I feel like Day 14 may be too soon. Grass right now seems to be really pouting and are very short. When I looked at Paul's 2016 reno thread, his grass seemed longer at Day 7.


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

SNOWBOB11 said:


> Wow day 16 already. I feel early fertilizing helped establish my reno faster and get things going. I can't remember the exact amount I put down but I started light weekly urea apps at day 15. Weather conditions and time of year were obviously different for me than you though. If I reno my backyard this fall I'll do the same thing again and start the urea apps early.


+1. I did the same thing. :thumbup:


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

How long were your grasses when you fertilized? My sprouts are like 1cm long.


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

llO0DQLE said:


> How long were your grasses when you fertilized? My sprouts are like 1cm long.


I was not worried about how long they were. I was more worried about walking on it. If you can get over that fear... then throw it down. 

I have a Day 7 - Day 98 gallery up here... starting day 14 I started to spoon feed the lawn. You can see the difference.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Well I've been walking on it already so I guess I should just throw it down. Your Day 14 pic has longer/thicker areas than mine currently but looks similar in the thinner areas. So you don't think it matters how long/mature the grass is before yiu start throwing down urea? Did you do 0.25 or 0.5lbs?


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

llO0DQLE said:


> Well I've been walking on it already so I guess I should just throw it down. Your Day 14 pic has longer/thicker areas than mine currently but looks similar in the thinner areas. So you don't think it matters how long/mature the grass is before yiu start throwing down urea? Did you do 0.25 or 0.5lbs?


Forgot exactly who I read it from on the other forum, maybe TT... but he always spoon fed a small amount of N early during his renos and I just went with it. I did somewhere in between, lol.. I was at .33lbs for 2 weeks.. then moved to .5lbs for a week, then 1 for the rest of the season.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Yeah TT I think was the one who really started voicing out the early spoon feeding which was contrary to the advice of Morph and Andy. So you went all the way up to 1lb/K by the 3rd app weekly? That seems to be a lot of N no?


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

llO0DQLE said:


> So you went all the way up to 1lb/K by the 3rd app weekly? That seems to be a lot of N no?


Week 1: .33
Week 2: .33
Week 3: .5
Week 4+: 1

The grass was happy so I kept at it. :twisted:


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Ok thanks! I threw down 0.25lb about an hour ago. I haven't tried early fertilization before so I'm being a little chicken.. lol

Note to self: Today is Day 17.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

And I threw a little bit more seed in other sparse areas as well. It was too windy yesterday and I felt that some of the seed I dropped didn't go down that well and felt that some areas that I didn't put seed on yesterday could use some.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Some areas that were bare or thin and that I thought needed reseeding are starting to show some sprouts. I knew that reseeding may not have been needed in some of those areas and I knew I was being a bit panicky but also knew that it shouldn't be too bad as I seeded at 2.5lbs / K and went pretty light with the reseeding. I am guessing I put it down at a rate of 1lb/K which I did on purpose in case sprouts do come up in those areas. As always, we'll see how it goes and deal with what happens next.


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

It's difficult to just wait and do nothing when your waiting for seeds to germinate isn't it? At least you have a lot of time to reseed any areas that don't come in good. I guess that is an advantage with you doing a late spring reno. Did you start any pots? Or are you just relying of spreading and plugs for bare areas?


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

It wasn't so much the waiting, it was the fear that for whatever reason I wasn't going to get any/good germination in those areas as other areas were already showing decent germination. It's that tough call of whether reseeding is really needed or not. If I wait too long and reseeding was really needed then the grass in those areas are way behind the first sprout then it messes up your timeline for future applications of fert and herbicides. I didn't do pots. In my last reno the bare areas were so small that I just let it fill in. With what I've seen with how KBG can spread and fill in, I didn't feel pots were necessary and honestly, I feel like they're a chore to keep healthy and plant into the ground. I'd rather toss more seed if the bare areas are that big, otherwise just let KBG spread.


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

Yeah I agree with you on the pots they are a hassle. And like you said bluegrass will fill in any bare areas on its own especially with apps of N. From what I've seen bewitched really likes extra N. This spring I was applying urea weekly and you could see the grass look better with each app.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

How's the color looking on your Bewitched? Is it darker than last year? I know you've posted pics but it's hard to say how accurate it is with what I see on my screen.


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

Colour definitely has got darker than last year. It still isn't as dark as I'd like though. I have a high ph soil of 7.9 so I need to rely on foliar apps of iron to get the colour better. I applied FAS a couple weeks ago and I think I put down too much and got some ugly black areas on the grass so it's been growing those out. Next time I do FAS I'll do so at a lower rate and see how that goes. Even though I haven't got the colour exactly where I want it I'm loving the even colour and growing hight of all bewitched. I know there is more risk to a monostand but once you've done it there is no going back.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Glad to hear color is getting darker for you. Yeah 7.9 is pretty high. But HLG's previous lawn was 7.8 so we know you can make that lawn awesome regardless.


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## Greenrebellion (Jun 13, 2018)

Be patient with Bewitched. Turf Toes from ATY said that his Bewitched got noticeably darker after year 2 and is now darker than his Blueberry. And it continues to get darker through year 5.

I'm throwing down lots of milorganite on my high PH front yard Bewitched reno. Hopefully that will build up some available iron.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Yeah TT's comments were what made me decide to go Bewitched mono aside from the shade tolerance. Seems like the best cultivar atm if you need the shade tolerance. Top performer in shade, tough, darker green than the other popular cultivars and slower vertical growth. What's not to like? Only question is the blue tones.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Day 23 Pics taken yesterday, June 19/18.

Front area that gets full sun has the best coverage


Washout area. Has some sprouts here and there. I don't think the sprouts are from the reseeding. 


This spot actually has decent coverage. Doesn't show that well in pics.


Germination here is a little thin. I think it's due to the area staying wetter for longer.


Problem area due to sprinkler coverage which I anticipated. I reseeded this yesterday, June 19 (Day 23).


I also fertilized yesterday (Day 23) with 0.5lb N/M with urea. (6 days from last fertilization because I had the day off yesterday).

Today I sprayed some BLSC and Kelp Help + Molasses + Milk.


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

Looks like it's coming along well. Must be good to see some green back in the lawn.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Yeah it's nice to be able to see some green without squinting anymore, or going down on my hands and knees with an LED flashlight at night (I still do that tho lol). I can't wait for it to reach 1.5 - 2" and start mowing with my reel mower and I'm looking forward to see what it will look like 2 weeks from now. I am loving the Tenacity at seed down. Almost zero weeds. My 2015 reno was FULL of weeds as I didn't get Tenacity until around Day 60. I hardly fallowed with this reno. I've read posts on ATY saying that with Tenacity, fallowing may not really be necessary or beneficial. In my case, with low weed pressure in my lawn and surrounding lawns, I'd tend to agree.


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## Greenrebellion (Jun 13, 2018)

Fallowing may still be helpful for those with a lot of Poa Annua or other grassy weed infestation. I fallowed last year for 4 weeks and kept it super moist and was able to get substantial amounts of grassy weeds, primarily Poa Annua to germinate even though it was late July.

In any event, I agree with you that Tenacity is a game changer for renovations.


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## LawnNerd (Sep 2, 2017)

Oh, @Greenrebellion . Man good to see you here. You had your hands full with all that poa. 2 years in a row! So, how did your Tenacity bomb experiment turn out? I actually used your plan and your research to come up with a plan for myself this spring and it worked wonderfully.


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## Greenrebellion (Jun 13, 2018)

Man, I can't believe how well things turned out. Two renovations in a row I had the thickest stand of Poa annua germinate each time, but the second year my Tenacity timing and application rates completely destroyed the stuff. I am being super diligent around pre-em timing and may do the Tenacity regimen again this fall in the front yard if enough Poa annua escapes the pre-em barrier.

Glad to hear my results helped guide you in your efforts!


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Glad I told you about the more frequent apps greenreb. Looks like it worked great.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Greenrebellion said:


> Fallowing may still be helpful for those with a lot of Poa Annua or other grassy weed infestation. I fallowed last year for 4 weeks and kept it super moist and was able to get substantial amounts of grassy weeds, primarily Poa Annua to germinate even though it was late July.
> 
> In any event, I agree with you that Tenacity is a game changer for renovations.


Yes for sure. And don't get me wrong, I'm not advocating not to fallow. I just think that in some lawns, where weed pressure is low, it may not be that much of a difference if using Tenacity at seed down and then 4 weeks later, which seems to be the case for my lawn. I am starting to see some grassy weeds and broadleafs sprouting but I am nearing the 4 week mark and Tenacity should wipe them all out fairly easily.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

I saw sprouts on the reseeded washout section last night which I don't think I saw the previous day so I'll call it yesterday, Day 25, as germination day for that reseeded area. Interestingly, it took exactly 10 days for the reseeded area(s) to germinate, the same as the original seed. I will adjust my fertilizer inputs for that section and will skip it the next time I drop some urea, which will probably be June 24, Sunday, as I am leaving for a mini vacation for 4 days on Monday. I also plant to cut back the watering at that point to 3x a day since it's time for it for the existing grass that sprouted first, as well as the fact that my Orbit timer can only be programmed to water 3x a day. I think I will also start spraying Natria (Serenade) soon.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

*Day 31 Pics taken June 27/18*

Front is doing really well.




Washout area is still thin but has more sprouts. I reseeded it again June 28 as well as other thin/bare areas.


Bad spot by the tree continues to be bare. I'm considering starting two pots to plant here.


This spot is doing okay. There are more sprouts than can be seen in the pic and are more visible at night with an LED flashlight.


This spot is still thin and has more sprouts than can be seen in the pic as well but the sprouts are wispy and look fragile. I also reseeded this area on June 28. 


I'm not sure if this is moss or a bunch of grass seeds that I seeded too heavy in this area. 


I've mowed 2x thus far with my reel mower, only cutting a little bit at first on June 24. Seems to have thickened up quite a bit from that first mow. I really believe in cutting new grass when it first reaches around 2 inches to help it tiller.

Left - June 24 (Day 28) first mow; Right - June 27 (Day 31) 2nd mow 3 days later


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

Good stuff. Very decent coverage so far. Just a suggestion. Instead of starting pots for the area by the tree try putting a layer of top soil and re seed it. It looks a bit dry and compact and I found my seeds germinated better in some areas I spread soil to level. You know what your doing and I shouldn't really be giving out any suggestions to you but thought I would anyways.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Thanks Bob, if I wasn't so lazy, I would drive to the Rona that's 2 minutes from my place and buy some peat moss and I could seed and top dress that bad spot by the tree. Actually, I'm not lazy, just hard to sneak out to do lawn stuff before the wife complains because.. baby.

However, I don't know if that alone will solve it as I think the water droplets are just not reaching that spot that well due to the tree's canopy. I could go out there and hand water but I don't know if that will cut it either as I won't be able to water when I'm at work. I could either do plugs, pots, seed and topdress with peat moss + hand water or let it spread but the latter option means waiting quite a while, possibly Jul/August next year at the earliest for that gap to really close up.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Oh and I'm always open to suggestions. That's what a forum is for.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

So I reseeded the bare area by the tree and front left corner and top dressed with peat moss on July 3rd, 9 days ago. I hand watered those areas to ensure they were kept moist. The front left corner was not getting hit by my sprinkler for some reason even though it was in the beginning of the reno. Anyway, adjusted the spray pattern and it is getting hit now. I still give it a quick spray when hand watering the bare area by the tree for good measure. I also reseeded thin areas in the back part of the lawn on July 8.

*Day 46 Pics*

Front part is looking nice.



Previous bare area by tree. Reseeded July 3 (9 days ago), germinated around 6 or 7 days after seeding. Again, doesn't show too well in pics during day light but there are a lot of sprouts with pretty even coverage which is seen more clearly at night with an LED light. I really should take night shots with my LED flashlight.


Same spot on July 3rd


Washout area. Getting better. 


General view of the back area. I reseeded those thin areas 4 days ago. 


Worst area right now. However, there are sprouts in there that are not visible in daylight and I reseeded this as well 4 days ago. 



Shot from across the street. I like this vantage point as it shows the pie shape clearer. Looks like a lawn from this far. 


I've been adjusting watering to keep the seeded areas moist but not too wet. Since we sometimes get days that are hotter at around 28-30 C (82 - 86 F) and then at times drop to around 17 - 21 C (62 - 70 F), I've been adjusting the watering durations and frequencies so as to keep the seed bed moist but not pooling with water. The challenge with my front lawn is that the front area is full sun but the back part is part sun to part shade and since I don't have an irrigation system and have to put the two sprinklers on the same watering schedule due to the limited options with my Orbit timer, it has been a game of compromises and tweaking watering to strike a balance. I prioritized my watering regimen to suit the front part of the lawn at first as I didn't want the seedlings to get scorched and now that it's fairly established, I am focusing on the back. I am currently watering 3x/day at around 7 minutes each time. It's probably not a very deep watering for the more established front area but again, compromises have to be made. I'm not too worried about it.

I've been mowing with my Troy Bilt reel mower every 3-4 days or so. I cut today before I took pics and took off quite a bit more than last mow. I probably should've cut sooner or raised the HOC. It's pretty dense that it was a bit hard to push the mower at first. I've been keeping up with the weekly urea and have sprayed some Natria (Serenade) and a few other inputs. For reference, check the 2nd post on the first page of this thread. I frequently update that section when I do something even if I don't write a new post. I've also been hand pulling some broadleaf and grassy weeds here and there. I don't seem to see any Poa Annua and just seem to only have a few barnyard type (I think) grassy weeds. I did my 2nd blanket spray of Tenacity 4oz./A at around week 5 and did not see any whitening of any grasses. I did have an issue with my sprayer not spraying properly at that time due to some debris blocking the nozzle outlet but I didn't stop to fix it as I didn't know what was causing the issue at the time and was in a hurry to get it done. I probably didn't have very even coverage as evidenced by the broadleaf weeds emerging after the 2nd Tenacity app but the lawn is looking fine. Next pic update will be at Day 60. Overall I'm happy with how things are progressing.


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

Wow. That has really thickened up since your last update. It's filling in well. It looks like your weekly urea is helping. Also looks like it's leaching into your neighbors yard as evidence by the dividing line between the two houses on there side is about 20 times greener than there main lawn. :shock:


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Something is not right with the neighbors tree. Your yard looks great.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

@SNOWBOB11 lol that's because of my sprinkler watering about a foot or so into their lawn. They don't do any yard work except to mow the lawn maybe once every 1-2 weeks although they did a bit of cleaning up a few days ago (weeding, edging, etc).

@g-man Yes, I think it's dead. It didn't green up after winter. It was fine last year going into winter but somehow didn't wake up this year.

Thanks for the compliments guys.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

Getting there!

I see you reseeded again. So, you're coming up on the last week or two to successfully seed KBG and have it mature enough before Winter, right? In my area, no one really seeds this time of year, but I've heard some people do shaded areas around this time, so I think early next week I'm going to give that a shot.

What's your plan for the accidental small triangle spot in the neighbor's yard near your front border? Can you move plugs of the original grass type into it?


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Yeah I figure I still have time. I know I've said something like early to mid July should probably be the latest to seed but that's more my gut feeling. I haven't tried seeding first week of August to see if that could work. I know I've been successful seeding in May/June multiple times and failed once seeding mid August. In any case, since we're talking about thin/bare areas, it can't hurt to reseed as worst case scenario is those areas don't take so I'm right where I would be if I hadn't reseeded.

My neighbors don't care. Their back lawn is full of dead patches from their Great Dane. They don't do anything to the lawn except mow it once every two weeks. I'll just let my or their grass spread into that spot.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

I overseeded all my thin and small bare areas today. The previous bare area by the tree and mugo pine have decent coverage from my July 3rd reseed but have very small areas that didn't have germination. I also reseeded the front left corner, including the "oops" on my neighbor's lawn. I forgot that I actually reseeded that "oops" area when I reseeded the bare spot on the corner of my lawn but it only has a handful of sprouts. The washout area has good coverage but it could be thicker. There are small areas in the back as well that did not have complete coverage and the worst area in the very back did not have much germination from my July 8 reseed. I am suspecting either seed rot from too much moisture or some washout as that area pools easily. I was only going to reseed this bad area in the back initially but I figured I'll hit all the spots that have less than 100% coverage as well as all the areas that I would like to thicken up. However, we got hit with a storm this evening (with tornado warnings!) after I reseeded so I will inspect the back area and if it looks like seed got washed out I will reseed again tonight when I get home from work or tomorrow morning.

This is my last chance to seed anyway so I don't have much to lose except a a handful of seed. Also, I will be away for four days next week for a mini vacation from July 23 -26, so I have to pick a watering strategy - either get seed to sprout or deeper watering for the more established areas. This is due to the fact that I have limited options with my timer and so my watering schedule will have to be geared towards getting seed to sprout as my main concern is to get that back area filled in with more grass. Because of this I figured I might as well overseed all the bad areas. Weather forecast is cool for the next week, around 21 C (70 F) so I think the more mature grass will be fine with less water. I have been watering more deeply every now and then to give the mature grass more water and hopefully encourage the roots to go deeper. I know the mantra is "deep and infrequent" but I think that if the soil temps are favorable, soil is moist enough in the deeper sections, and grass is fed, then the roots should still keep growing deeper. That's my personal theory anyway. I still have time to switch to deep and infrequent before winter hits anyway.

I also plan to drop some Milo on Sunday (July 22) just before I leave for vacation. I am choosing Milo because I just dropped urea 2 days ago and Sunday will only have been 4 days since last fertilization. I'm figuring I'll drop around 0.8lb N/M from Milo since it's apparently 40% quick release N so the grass will get 0.32lb quick release N/M 4 days since last urea app of 0.5lb N/M. The soil and grass could use some organic fertilizing as well anyway. I've also been putting down BLSC and Kelp Help to help with microbial activity.

Overall the lawn is doing fine, not too many issues. I definitely have some grassy weeds, including Poa Annua. I have pulled a couple plants so far. I can't really tell the P. Anna apart easily as the Bewitched is pretty light green at this point. The ones I pulled had seed heads. I don't know if it's my seed batch or soil but I had the same experience when I grew it in pots last year. Not as light green as they were in the pots but definitely lighter green than my KBG blend (Blueberry, Prosperity, Midnight, Sudden Impact and Bewitched) when I did my 2015 reno. Both my old lawn and current lawn have a pH of around 7.2 so I'm not sure what it is. The light green Bewitched pot was planted in the ground last year and it is pretty dark green now though so I'm not worried. I know it will darken next year.

I am waiting to pull the trigger on more Tenacity apps and putting down my Prodiamine due to the perpetual reseedings and having tiny seedlings in a bunch of areas in the lawn. I am just keeping an eye on the weed pressure, hand pulling what I can and if it gets to the point that I want to make those apps sooner than ideal, I will just skip the areas I reseeded so I don't hit young seedlings prematurely.


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

Good to hear things are going well. I wouldn't be concerned about the colour at this stage. Last year when I reno'd the bewitched was fairly light coloured at the early stages, but now almost 1 year on the colour Is looking great. I took a close up picture yesterday to show how the colour is looking. Difficult to tell from the picture but you can see it's got much darker and has a bit of a blue look to it now.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Very nice Bob! Yeah I planted my pots of Bewitched and Blueberry that I grew last year near each other in a bare area in the lawn and forgot to take note which one's which and now I can't tell! They're both pretty dark. Apparently Bewitched surpasses Blueberry in dark green color at year 3 and even more in later years so I'll probably be able to pick it out next year. lol


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

*Day 60 Pics* (Taken July 26/18)




*Wash Out Area*

This area is filling in pretty good. I overseeded it 6 days ago but in hindsight I don't think it was really necessary. I haven't even really looked closely if there are new sprouts in there.



*Previous Bare Area by Tree*

This area has improved a lot. Again, there are more smaller sprouts not visible in the pic. Coverage is pretty good and I'm confident this spot will turn out well. This area was also reseeded 6 days ago so the tiny sprouts are not very visible in this pic.



*Back Area*

I also overseeded/reseeded thin/bare areas here and it's filled up quite nicely. Not sure how much of the improvement was from new sprouts or previous seedlings just tillering and thickening up.



*Bad Spot in the Back*

This area has improved as well, but is still not quite there. There are some sprouts not visible in the pic but I still don't have very even coverage. I think I keep getting washout or seed rot here. I do have tiny seedlings that I am trying to nurture and coax to mature. I'm not sure if I'm going to lightly overseed this spot again or just leave it be and just let if fill in.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

I came across a Melnor timer at Home Depot with 4 zones which were all individually programmable so I picked it up. Kinda late in the game but will come in handy with regular lawn watering and any future renovations. Also picked up another hose and a small spot sprinkler. I may just position the small sprinkler in the bad spot in the back so I can keep that small section on a seeding regimen and transition the rest of the lawn to deep and infrequent. Had I known that my local HD had this timer before the reno I may have just picked it up and set up a more ideal watering regimen for the different sections in the lawn. Last year and previous years my local HD and Canadian Tire (and even Rona and Lowes) did not have much for timers but it seems that they've brought in more stock this year. I already had my Orbit timer and thought I would just make do as I didn't want to be too anal about this reno from the get go due to how busy I was with the new baby. Canadian Tire even has the NRG type rain gauges that I overpaid for online a couple years ago especially with the USD exchange rate and shipping.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

*FRONT*

May 30/18 (Day 3)


June 19/18 (Day 23) 


June 27/18 (Day 31)



July 12/18 (Day 46)



July 26/18 (Day 60)



August 25/18 (Day 89)


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

*Washout Area*

June 5/18 (Day 9)- First major washout due to timer glitching and running for 5 hours.



June 6/18 - Repair


June 11/18 (Day 15)- Second washout in the same spot due to storm



June 12/18 (Day 16) - Repair


June 19/18 (Day 23)


June 27/18 (Day 31)


July 12/18 (Day 46)


July 26/18 (Day 60)


August 25/18 (Day 89)


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

*Bare Area by Tree*

*Problem area due to spotty sprinkler coverage

June 19/18 (Day 23)- Reseeded the day prior. First germination in the lawn was on Day 10 so this is 13 days after.


June 27/18 (Day 31) - 9 days later.


July 3/18 (Day 37) - Reseeded again.


July 12/18 (Day 46) 


July 26/18 (Day 60)


August 25/18 (Day 89)


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

*Back Area*

June 19/18



June 27/18


July 12/18


July 26/18


August 25/18


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

*Bad Spot in the Back*

June 19/18


June 27/18


July 12/18



July 26/18


August 25/18


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

That is looking great. It is really thickening up. It looks like a full lawn from far back. By next year it's going to look awesome. How's weed pressure so far? Are you going to go ahead with a follow up tenacity app?


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Weed pressure is not bad. There are some grassy weeds including P. Annua which is much harder to detect this time around because of Bewitched's lighter green color at this stage. In my 2015 reno the Poa was very noticeable as my blend was just darker for some reason. I noticed a few due to the seed heads and was able to pull a couple out. A couple were so intertwined and I did not want to rip out Bewitched so I just pulled the stalks with the seed heads. There are also some broadleaf weeds and I've been pulling the obnoxious looking ones. I don't worry too much about dandelions as the leaves aren't so bad and they're not getting too big and they'll die in the winter even if I don't spray any herbicides.. There aren't that many broadleaf weeds though. I do plan to do a follow up Tenacity app and some Prodiamine but I'm kind of just waiting to pull the trigger due to the immature grass I have from the reseedings. I am keeping a close eye on the weed pressure, esp. Poa Annua and if I can't stand it anymore or feel like it's starting to get too many then I'll hit it with Tenacity at 4oz/A, then probably twice more with 2oz/A at 5 day intervals. I only have 8oz/A left. If it's only a couple areas I may skip the 2oz./A and just spot spray. Then it will be Prodiamine 4 weeks after the 4oz/A Tenacity app, or sooner if the grass is mature enough. Tenacity will probably wipe out everything but if any broadleaves survive, I will then use Killex but I don't think that will be necessary.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

This was my 2015 Reno at Day 60. Blueberry, Midnight, Prosperity + SSS Shade Mix (Bewitched, Midnight, Sudden Impact). See how much darker it was. Also, see if you can spot the Poa Annua spot in pic #3. I had a pretty concentrated area of annua. I didn't have Tenacity until Day 57 if I remember correctly so I had just applied it for the first time before these pics were taken. As you can see, I had way more weed pressure that's why this time around it's really no sweat compared to what I had before.






This is the spot with a high concentration of poa. The light green poa really stood out against the much darker KBG. It was really ugly. I didn't want to just nuke it either because even though it's not obvious in the pic, I had a lot of good KBG intertwined. Luckily another forum member shared with me a source for Tenacity so i was able to get it and eradicate P. annua.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

So with my new Melnor timer having the capability to have each zone with it's own watering schedule, I decided to overseed the bad spot in the back as well as some other thinner areas in the back, the spot by the tree and front left corner area. I rigged up my hose nozzle to water the bad spot in the back with it's own schedule and just doing the other areas by hand. The rest of the lawn is currently on a daily watering slowly being transitioned to deep and infrequent.



I mowed the lawn with the rotary mower for the first time the other day, skipping any tender areas and I'm loving the cleaner cut due to the suction. Also edged it for the first time and was surprised how much it's grown over onto the driveway. I should've done it sooner, I had to take a knife to certain sections.

Also, a couple days ago, I was out being neighborly, chatting with my neighbor when his dog goes running up on the lawn chasing my cat tearing up the section by the tree with new seedlings. I kept my poker face on as this was the first time I had a chance to really chat with this neighbor after moving in to this place 1.5 years ago. The guy just sort of lazily tells his dog to bugger off but the dog kept running back and tore it up like 2-3x .I didn't want to freak out because I didn't want to look like a lawn nazi. He kinda goes "Oh Bella look what you did to his lawn." And I'm like, oh it's ok I can fix it. And he nonchalantly says "Oh yeah it'll come back." as if grass just grows back overnight like dandelions do. lol A few years ago I probably would've been pretty pissed but with some experience with grass now I've kinda learned not to take some things too seriously. I took a pic of the damage at the time but didn't notice it was a blurry pic.



Anyway, damage isn't too bad and I was able to press some seedlings and clumps of grass back into the ground.

Here's a close up pic of the density of the lawn at this time. Section is by the front. Color is a bit darker in person. I'm just using my Samsung S5 with the Flickr app.



I've noticed a few more P. Annua so I decided to do a blanket spray of Tenacity at 4oz./A yesterday. Also dropped MAP and MOP today and will drop some Milo with micros this weekend.


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

I always look forward to updates on your lawn. Looks like things are more than doing good. Stinks about the damage but as you say it doesn't look too bad. The density is really looking good.

Are you still dropping weekly urea? Or are you giving it a break being your going to be using milo?


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

I'm glad you're enjoying it. I was and am still aiming to spoon feed it weekly N. What happened was that I was going on vacation on July 23 and my last urea drop was on July 18. I wasn't going to be back until the 26th so either I was going to fertilize a bit earlier or a bit later. I decided to do it earlier but use Milo instead. I thought that if I'd drop 0.8lb N/M of Milo, which apparently has 40% WSN, then I'd be dropping 0.32lb N/M (WSN) 4 days since last urea app on July 18. So it's a bit less than the standard 0.5lb N/M urea weekly since it's 3 days early. Since the rest of the N is slow release, it still counts towards total N but is a bit different - organic, has to be processed by soil microbes before it becomes available to the grass yadda yadda yadda.

So after that I decided that 90% of the grass was mature enough to receive the harsher MOP, and from my last Soil Test recommendations by Andy on ATY last year, I am supposed to drop P&K monthly so I figured I should make an app. So 10 days since Milo app, I applied MAP and MOP at 1lb P&K/M which includes 0.22N/M from MAP. So I figured that that kind of evens out to around 0.5lb N/M per week since July 18.

Then, I figured I also need to drop micros so I'm using Milo as my carrier. I will probably apply 1lb N/M from Milo with the micros this weekend. I also think that the Milo will green it up a bit as my last soil test 2 years ago showed a pH of 7.2 if I recall, plus stimulate the microherd as well. I haven't been doing as much organics except for Kelp Help so that's another reason I wanted to get some Milo in there to keep the microherd going especially as the MOP apparently tends to harm it. I also wanted to get some Milo in while it's still warm enough as soil microbes won't be able to process it when it gets cooler. I'll switch back to urea then, maybe in September, depending on how the weather goes. We're still hitting 25 - 28 C so Milo it is for now.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

So it's been 4 days since my last Tenacity app at 4oz./A and I barely see any bleaching on the Poa annua, and even on the broadleafs. I don't know why. My previous Tenacity app at 4oz./A weeks ago also did not show any bleaching. Application went fine, no wind, spray was even, had good coverage etc. I did use a new sprayer so I'm wondering if the droplet size is too big. It's just a regular Home Depot $20 Chapin sprayer. I will use my old sprayer for the next app. The Tenacity was purchased 3 years ago in 2015 but I know it still works as I applied it at seed down and had almost no weeds for 4 weeks. I am planning to do another app tomorrow, 5 days since last app, and have 4oz./A left for my yearly limit. Here's the questions:

1. Should I do another 4oz./A tomorrow and spot spray any remaining annua, and just take the risk of overshooting yearly limits? Or do 4oz./A but no more spot spray after that. I am worried that anything less than 4oz./A will not bleach the annua.

2. Stick with 2 oz./A apps. - Do 2oz./A tomorrow and then another 2oz./A in 5-7 days, and just trust that the Tenacity will do it's thing?

3. I was due for a cut yesterday but we've had a lot of rain lately and the grass is approx. 3" in the dense front section, and 4" in the back for some reason. I've been cutting at 2.5". Should I spray before cut for maximum leaf surface or mow down to 2.5" to expose any annua hiding under the canopy, esp. in the front where it's pretty dense. I see most of the seedheads in the front area as well.


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## JDgreen18 (Jun 14, 2018)

I just read your whole jounal...its lookin good.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Thanks!


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

My opinion, wait a couple of more days. I have seen tenacity slow to show the whiting. 4 days is still too soon. Hand pull the poa annua that you see.

Edit: I would mow at 2in for the rest of the year.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Ok maybe I'll wait to reasses until 7 days after I last applied. Regarding the 2" HOC, is that in relation to Tenacity or just a general recommendation for HOC for the season? My mower only has 5 settings. Scalp, setting #2 which I can't remember the exact HOC of, maybe 1.75", middle notch which is 2.5" and what I maintain my lawn at. The last 2 notches are too tall and the grass flops over.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I think since you have a mono of Bewitched, it will like to be mowed short for it to spread laterally. I rotary mowed my northern mix at 1.75in all of last fall. It looked great.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Hmm is that something about Bewitched specifically? I didn't know BW liked to be mowed short in order to spread laterally. So anything higher than 2 inches and it doesn't spread as much?

I double checked my mower's HOC by actually measuring the distance from the ground to the blade and my middle notch is 2". Previously (a long time ago) I had just measured the HOC of the grass after a mow and that's where I got 2.5". So I guess I've been mowing at 2" all along. I measured the grass height after mowing yesterday and it measured 2" in some spots and 2.5" in others, probably due to uneveness in the lawn.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

This is the description from preferred seed "Bewitched (A99-2041) is a compact type with a low compact growth habit which makes it an excellent candidate for golf course fairways and sod farms due to it's reduced vertical growth rates and 1/2 inch height of cut. "

Other compact type of KBG share the same properties. I dont know if there is a difference at higher than 2in, but I would guess so. Since the leaf can grow long to collect energy, why will it till or try to grow new leafs?


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

My understanding from the statement is that BW _*can*_ be mowed short at 1/2" HOC and since it has a slow vertical growth rate, it makes it suitable for fairways.

I've read that KBG (any of the elites) will spread the same (maybe some cultivars more aggressively so than others) at mowing heights since, as a grass, it wants to reach 1 foot tall or so to flower and if it can't reproduce that way because it's being mowed, then it will spread instead to survive and multiply. Apparently the act of regular mowing gives it the stimulus to spread. I can't remember the exact terms and explanation but something to do with cutting off the tips and doing it regularly is the stimulus that makes the KBG spread.

I've read of experienced forum members' experiences that they have not seen much difference in spreading speed at different regular mowing heights, anywhere from 2-4" and have had decent spreading at even 4". Now, a lot of these members had blends so that's why my question was specifically regarding BW since as we all know, some cultivars may exhibit different traits.

Also, to throw a bit of a different angle to this discussion, I've read that spreading, which is rhizome production, is stimulated by factors and cultural practices that enhance root growth, and that one of these factors is a slightly higher HOC. What that height is I don't know since "higher" and "lower" are subjective terms. I think the only way to know is to do a test plot side by side with the same growing conditions and inputs with only HOC as the variable.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

So, I've decided to wait to spray Tenacity until tomorrow (7 days since last app) as the Poa annua may just be taking time to bleach, as the metabolism is probably slow at this time of year. I will also spray Prodiamine tomorrow. I did seem to notice more seedhead production which tells me that the Tenacity is working and the Poa annua is trying to reproduce because it's about to die. I mowed yesterday which exposed more whitened broadleafs at the base of the plants. I did bag mow in case there were more seedheads I missed and was not able to pluck. I was able to pluck some plants intact but some were so intertwined I just plucked the seed heads so as not to add to my soil's seed bank.



I was not going to post pics until Day 90 but the lawn was looking nice after I mowed at my regular HOC of 2" so I snapped a couple pics.

*DAY 70*


My bad spot in the back showed germination around Aug. 2 or 3. My last overseed was July 30 which puts that at 3-4 days after seed down. I've never seen germination that quick in my lawn so I am thinking that this is most likely from the previous overseed at July 20, which puts that at 14 days from seed down. The germination is not so heavy so I think it will turn out fine if I get more germination from the July 30 overseed. I didn't want to wait too long to overseed again in case the July 20 overseed didn't take, so that's why I overseeded again on July 30, 10 days later, since I was seeing germination by 10 days with previous seedings on this reno. Also, with my window of seeding coming to a close, I decided to do a last overseed on July 30.


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

I cut most of this year at 2.5" but raised the HOC to 3" when it got really hot and dry this summer. I'm not sure if it would spread better at a lower HOC but all I can say is I'm more than impressed with the spreading I've seen. Now I'm talking about the full sun areas. The areas that get more shade spread much slower with the areas that get lots of shade spreading very little at all. The full sun area is so thick right now it's crazy.

Also I think the poa a you are seeing is probably from the seed. I noticed several areas of poa a this spring as well. As you know the brett young seed is certified but not listed as sod quality so I think there is the chance of poa a seeds in the mix. I just dug them out and never did a tenacity app this spring and it worked out fine. More importantly I didn't notice any poa t and other than some fairly insignificant annual rye I didn't see much other weeds.

By the way the lawn is looking great. Good to see your already getting stripes. It already looks ten times better than your neighbors lawn.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Thanks Bob. Yeah I love it when it gets to the point where you can actually see stripes.

Yes, I think if you maintain your grass at typical lawn heights, you will see similar spreading with different HOC and other variables will matter more such as amount of sun, water, fertilizer etc.

My guess is the Poa annua came from the soil. There's Poa annua all over the neighborhood and in the city, it was in my previous lawn despite using sod quality seed and the Bewitched pots using Brett Young seed last year did not have any Poa annua.

I think your journal needs some new pics!


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Ok, it was too windy today so I couldn't spray Tenacity. I was also looking for this article Tenacity: A New Weapon in the Poa Annua Battle last night but was having trouble locating it. I had come across it a while back and wanted to review it to come up with an application plan. My original plan was to do a 4oz. blanket spray to highlight the Poa Annua then do repeat apps at 2oz./A with short intervals, around 5 days apart. I remembered that that's what I did on my 2015 reno which worked out well. For that reno, my first app which was at 4oz./A was on July 31 and it was a hot year and the Poa Annua bleached right away. When the Poa Annua didn't bleach this time around, I was unsure with what was going on and how to proceed.

As per the article above, when temps are high, the half life of Mesotrione is 1-2 days, which is probably why the Poa Annua didn't bleach this time around. In hindsight, I should've reviewed the article before applying Tenacity a week ago and planned on a low dose short interval app schedule of every 2-3 days.

In any case, I'm at Day 7 today since last app at 4oz./A and don't see any bleaching of the Poa Annua at all. I doubt it will bleach in the next few days, especially since we are going to continue to have highs in the 25-30C range (77-86F). The broadleafs on the other hand are showing more bleaching.

So I've got a decision to make. I only have 4oz./A left for my Tenacity allowance this year. Do I:

1. Continue on and do 2oz./A tomorrow and another 2oz./A in 3 days?
2. Write off the 4oz./A app I did 7 days ago, wait until temps cool down in the fall, do a 4oz./A app to bleach the Poa and then either spot spray or hand pull? I know if I spot spray I will be over the limit and will be taking a risk. I would probably figure out a 1-2oz./A dilution for spot spraying if I go this route so I don't go over too much. 
3. Some other regimen I haven't considered.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Also, I was thinking to mix Prodiamine with Tenacity if I do decide to spray tomorrow. I know Prodiamine and Tenacity can be mixed as per label but since I need to use surfactant for Tenacity, I'm wondering if this would affect how much Prodiamine I get into the soil by mixing them together or if it would be better to spray them separately.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I would not mix prodiamine with nis.

I would light it up with the 4oz and hand pull. You don't have a huge area.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

g-man said:


> I would not mix prodiamine with nis.


Thanks for confirming.



g-man said:


> I would light it up with the 4oz and hand pull. You don't have a huge area.


You're referring to waiting for fall option right? I'm not too worried about the size of the area, more about the difficulty of hand pulling intertwined Poa Annua with KBG without pulling KBG out as well.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

I've been keeping an eye on the Poa Annua and have been noticing more seed heads crop up. I decided to take some time this morning and hand pull as much as I can. I didn't realize that I had quite a number of Poa Annua plants as they blend in quite well and really intertwine with the good KBG. It's tedious work when you're trying to hand pull the whole plant that's intertwined with good KBG and trying not to pull out the KBG with it. Sure is satisfying though when you successfully pull out the whole plant.



Took me a bit over an hour and filled up half a small grocery bag. The above pic are just the first few I pulled out.

Also, for the past week or so, I've been noticing a bunch of Poa Annua plants that are fairly browned out. Seems like they got hit pretty good with the one 4oz./A app of Tenacity I did on July 31. Seems like these are younger plants and were likely more susceptible. Some look dead while some look like they're badly injured but not quite dead.

I've noticed that on these plants that have been hit pretty good but are not dead, there are some red colorations on the stem. Not sure what exactly is going on but it's just something I've observed.



Plan right now is to wait until temps cool down around end of August or first week of September and do another 4oz./A app of Tenacity. I'll either hand pull what lights up or exceed my yearly limit by spot spraying at 1oz./A. I will also spray FAS to darken the Bewitched maybe a day after I spray Tenacity so I can see a good contrast. My thought is that the Tenacity will start working on the Poa Annua first and then the FAS won't darken the Poa Annua. I'm not sure it will work that way but that's what I'm hoping for.


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## Guest (Aug 24, 2018)

Hey, glad to see another Edmontonian on here. I joined a month ago looking for info on doing my own reno. I was curious to see if anyone was from Edmonton when I found your lawn journal. Good thing i found it too because it made me realize that i needed to start my reno ASAP.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Nice! I've been wondering if there were ever any Edmontonian lawn care nuts. Whereabouts are you in the city? You can PM me if you don't wanna broadcast that info. IMO, it's too late in the season to do a reno. I did a reno in 2014 with a seed down date of Aug. 19 and it all came back dead after the winter. Not enough time to establish, temps start cooling off a lot by mid - August and the daytime is shorter and the sun is pretty low by September. I suggest doing it next year as early as possible.


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## Guest (Aug 24, 2018)

I've edited my post. Sorry for putting my question here and appreciate you steering me in the right direction.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Please open a journal and we can tackle your questions there. That way we don't muddle this thread and you can have your own journal where everyone else can help you. Tag me after you've done so and I'll answer your questions there.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

*Day 89 - August 25/18*

Front

Lawn's looking like a lawn already. Actually, it looked like a lawn at around August 15, Day 79. Most of the lawn is pretty mature (for a first year lawn), just a few small bare spots left, density is good.



Front Left Corner

This was the spot that wasn't getting hit by the sprinkler very well and needed to be reseeded. I think I last reseeded this on July 31. There's some broadleaf weeds and at least one Poa Annua plant in this section that I haven't pulled because I just sprayed Tenacity 2 days ago and I want to observe it for bleaching.



Previous Washout Area

This section has filled in quite well. Not as dense as the front section of the lawn but that's to be expected as it was behind. The bare spot there is from where my sprinkler was sitting.



Previous bare area by the tree

Still has some filling in to do, bare areas are tiny and not clear in the pic. Overall I'm very pleased with how this previous bare area turned out.



View from the back



Only a few small bare areas left in this previous bare/thin section in the back.



Previous bad spot in the back

I'm pretty happy with how this has filled in as well. I'm glad I jerry rigged my hose nozzle to spot spray this area with my last reseeding from July 31.



So what have I been up to lately? Well, just keeping up with weekly spoon feeding nitrogen applications, MOP & MAP monthly (due for an app tomorrow), Natria bi-weekly, watering deep and infrequent-ish (around 4-5 day interval at this time, 0.5" applied. Will transition to full inch weekly soon), BLSC and Kelp Help q 3 - 4 weeks. I applied Prodiamine on August 8 and did my final 4oz./A app of Tenacity 2 days ago. No bleaching yet. I don't see any seed heads either aside from that one Poa Annua plant in the front left corner. I'll keep an eye on it see what happens in the next few days. Not much more to do for the rest of the season. I'll probably be pausing in 2 - 3 weeks. I wasn't able to do micros as I was too busy and I will try to do a FAS app in the next couple of days. Overall, I'm very pleased with how this reno turned out.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

This is a shared strip with my neighbor on the right side of my driveway. I think this is where the Poa Annua came from. It's mostly Poa Annua and grassy and broadleaf weeds. I hit it with Tenacity a couple days ago as well and sprayed Prodiamine too.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

BTW, I updated the time lapse progress pics of the different sections on Page 3 & 4 in case anybody was interested.


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

Awesome. The amount of filling in since day 60 is crazy. Would love to see a pic if you do a FAS app to see how it darkens up.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Yeah I'll post a pic for sure if I do FAS. Yeah the grass just filled in. I wasn't even being so anal anymore about hand watering around Day 70 but somehow it just took off. That problem area by the tree just filled in after that dog damage without me even noticing how thick it had become. The back also did the same. I think the cooler temps right around first week of August kicked everything into gear. Or maybe it's all that smoke coming from BC.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Poopgiggles said:


> I've edited my post. Sorry for putting my question here and appreciate you steering me in the right direction.


No worries and no need to edit the post. Just thought that you could have your own thread as you would likely have more questions along the way with your lawn journey. Been watching for your thread but haven't seen it. Mention me when you have it up. I wanted to answer your questions.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

So I took my Tenacity out today to spray the shared strip with my neighbor and noticed that the liquid was separating, like paint when it has been left sitting for a while. I stirred it and noted a lot of solidified material settled on the bottom. I was able to mix it up though. I think there's my answer as to why I've been having minimal or no bleaching with my last few apps. I sprayed about 7 days ago and see almost no bleaching at all on the Poa annua and broadleaf weeds. I did shake the bottle each time I've applied in the past and did not see this separation until today. The consistency looked normal to me so I didn't think to stir it with my previous apps. I've applied 16oz./A thus far but with the diluted consistency, I think it's possible that I've only applied enough AI equivalent to 8-12oz./A (50%-75% of 16oz./A). I am planning to apply 4oz./A one more time so I can light up the Poa Annua.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Sprayed FAS yesterday afternoon, pics taken this morning. I don't know how green it looks on your screen. It looks pretty dark green and vibrant on my phone but very different on my desktop, less dark, less vibrant and looks kinda dull. The image on my phone is more true to life.


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## Harts (May 14, 2018)

Colour looks awesome! Nice deep dark green :thumbup:


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Thanks!


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Looks like I've got some fungus - either leaf spot or melting out or both. I used MSU Turf Disease ID Tool as reference.



I noticed after I mowed a couple days ago on Saturday, Sept. 1, that some of the grass tips were brown. I thought the mower blade needed to be sharpened. Yesterday I looked closer and saw the spots. It's been cool and wet for the past week or so, temps around 13-18 C (55-64 F) with light drizzles almost daily. I also see the spots only in the front section of the lawn where it's the densest. It's not very bad at this point but is definitely there. It's not very noticeable unless you get on your hands and knees and comb through the grass blades.

I've been spraying Natria at 2-3oz./M since July 11 (Day 45) every 2 weeks. I sprayed yesterday at 4oz./M which was only 11 days after last app due to discovering these spots.

Plan is to keep a close eye on the infestation and spray Propiconazole if it starts to get worse. I don't have any other chemical fungicides at this point. I will also up my Natria to maybe 3oz./M weekly at this point. I am still doing weekly spoon feeding of urea at 0.5lb. N/M weekly with my last app being yesterday as well. I plant to mulch leaves tomorrow if able. (I have a stockpile of leaves from previous years)

Any thoughts or advice is appreciated.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

*Sept 2/18  - Day 97* (4 days after FAS)



*Sept 8/18 - Day 103* (12 days after FAS. Seems to peak in color at this point)



*Sept 11/18 - Day 106* (15 days after FAS. Color seems to be returning to normal)




*Sept 13/18 - Day 108*


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Shared strip with my neighbor. I've applied 16oz.A of Tenacity so far (which may actually only be 14oz./A due to the clumping). I think I probably should've just used Round Up lol


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

llO0DQLE said:


> *Sept 13/18 - Day 108*


I think there is a problem with your fas application. I'm not looking forward to that white stuff.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

Wow, you got snow while the tree leaves were still green.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

g-man said:


> llO0DQLE said:
> 
> 
> > *Sept 13/18 - Day 108*
> ...


Lol Yeah, this is the time of year where my depression sets in. Lol By December I'll be counting the days until Spring.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Green said:


> Wow, you got snow while the tree leaves were still green.


It's just a temporary thing and will melt. Around Halloween is when we typically get snow that stays for the winter. By mid November it's pretty much guaranteed we're covered in snow.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

@llO0DQLE how is the reno this year?


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

llO0DQLE said:


> I've applied 16oz.A of Tenacity so far (which may actually only be 14oz./A due to the clumping).


Just a little tip: Careful with clumped Tenacity. I found it was actually MORE concentrated than the liquid stuff, and a couple of years ago, killed some of my grass by using it. In hindsight, I should have gone by the color of the final mixture to evaluate the concentration, rather than how much concentrate I thought I was adding.

Hope things are going well.


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