# Fungus on zoysia and or pool damage?



## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Hi everyone hope spring green up and growth are :thumbup:

I have an area of year near pool with this awful burnt look about it. But I swear it's gotta fungus. Anyone help me ID. The grass is palisades zoysia.



Then a few feet away another spot has this neon or yellowing look about it. Different look but a fungus maybe?

I did put down diseaseX and another home depot avail anti fungal this spring. So surprised to see this happening!

Thanks for the help!


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

I see so much going on here.

Fungus. Maybe leaf spot or dollar spot. I would mix in Daconil with whatever systemic you choose. Maybe try 3336F or similar.

Chlorotic leaves. Could be due to fungus. Could be due to inadequate nutrition (nitrogen/sulphur).

White leaf tissue showing where surface has been scraped reminds me of the damage you find right before sod webworms start notching the leaf blades. I wrote about this in my journal.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Thanks @ionicatoms!

On the chlorosis: yes I have very high ph soil at 8.0 and so use ams once growing season begins, and use FEature as well. I have much to improve there.

Appreciate suggestion on the daconil and do more research on a systemic - I'm still sort new to this. Is there a systemic you recommend as I don't have anything liquid and can start with anything.

Thanks for the rec in web worms and will look at your journal. I did have armyworks once so look fwd to another potential pest battle.

Thanks!!


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

I would recommend you try 3336F next. You can only spray it 4 times per year according to the label, so you'll need to rotate with other systemic products like the two you have already tried.

Cheapest option for 3336F is probably in the marketplace: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=27805

If you really like granular, there is one available (more expensive).

I also use Azoxystrobin and Propiconazole liquid products. Both are good, but check NCSU for fungicide effectiveness on leaf spot and dollar spot.

The Daconil is not labeled for residential lawns anymore. Supposedly it is hazardous to children who play/contact the grass. So I keep my family off of any areas that I have sprayed Daconil on for a week. Not sure if that would work for you in this location.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Thank you! I do have kids and a dog and hard to get anyone to stay off my grass which I often try. Lots to look into.

I did the soap test like the UGA link in your Journal suggested. Didn't find any webworms. Will keep investigating the shape of that tapered blade.

Thanks for your insights. Will update after I get to work.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Here's a better pic (with my new iPhone! Finally switch from Samsung. Oh vey)

Is this a distinctive pattern of any fungus on a wide blade zoysia like palisades?

Trying to narrow in on the anti fungal most likely to work.

Thanks!

Distinctive blade deterioration



Almost a golden discoloration on the affected grass


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## gkaneko (Dec 11, 2018)

I'll add one thing, just from experience. Your grass is long. I notice with my lawn that when I let it grow too long, all kinds of weird things start to happen. If you keep a lower cut consistently, you will have healthier grass.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

gkaneko said:


> I'll add one thing, just from experience. Your grass is long. I notice with my lawn that when I let it grow too long, all kinds of weird things start to happen. If you keep a lower cut consistently, you will have healthier grass.


that's for sure. i get only 4 hours of direct sun, then it's full shade by the house. so i leave it on the longer side, which ive read pallisades can take... but i do have constant problems! need to scalp and level in a few weeks and then invest in a reel mower.


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## Philly_Gunner (Apr 23, 2019)

I also noticed that a lot of the tips look pretty ragged. Are your blades sharp?


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Philly_Gunner said:


> I also noticed that a lot of the tips look pretty ragged. Are your blades sharp?


The first set of pics was after I cut it down to 1" and the blade was not sharp. Sharpened before the second set. If tips still appear too ragged then I need to hone the sharpening skill!


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

@Spammage can you ID this fungus?


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

ionicatoms said:


> @Spammage can you ID this fungus?


Looks like dollar spot.


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

:thumbup:


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

ionicatoms said:


> :thumbup:


Thanks @ionicatoms and @Spammage !!


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

ionicatoms said:


> I would recommend you try 3336F next. You can only spray it 4 times per year according to the label, so you'll need to rotate with other systemic products like the two you have already tried.
> 
> Cheapest option for 3336F is probably in the marketplace: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=27805
> 
> ...


thanks again @ionicatoms 3336F and Clearys are on the way for a rotational program.... thanks!!!


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> thanks again @ionicatoms 3336F and Clearys are on the way for a rotational program.... thanks!!!


Good luck!

3336 has a rating of good control when disease pressure is moderate, excellent control when disease pressure is low

and the Risk rating is High which means Rotate to different chemical class after EVERY application or tank-mix with low or medium risk product for EVERY application.

Read more at: https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/dollar-spot-in-turf/


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Thanks @ionicatoms .

My plan was to rotate the clearys (class 1, thiophen, systemic) and the prop (class 3, also systemic) in separate applications. Sounds like I also need a contact? Hence your recommendation on the daconil?

I believe we might be catching the dollar spot somewhat early although maybe looks are deceiving. so was gunna hit it hard with 3 apps of prop, then 3336, then prop again, in the next 6 weeks and see where that leaves it.

Any recommendations for a fall application plan to keep this from happening again next spring?

Thoughts?


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> My plan was to rotate the clearys (class 1, thiophen, systemic) and the prop (class 3, also systemic) in separate applications. Sounds like I also need a contact? Hence your recommendation on the daconil?


Rotating or mixing with another mode of action is a must with 3336. I like rotating because I feel it gives me longer coverage through the year without exceeding annual maximums for individual products.

I suspect mixing two or more fungicides gives better control, but my grass is so prone to fungus that I need to be careful about how much I'm putting out.

Yes, Daconil is a contact fungicide; obviously less desirable than systemics which are labeled for residential lawns. But, I'll say this. I was having a horrendous time with GLS last year and sometimes you feel the choice is between continuing to lose grass or spraying off-label.

I'm not really familiar with Dollar spot or its prevention. I suspect most fungus can be managed with cultural practices, but I'm still relying on fungicides to meet my goals.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Yes I'm reluctant to use anything not labeled for resi use because of little kids.

I'm totally new to fungicide. Is my plan to alternate the clearys and 3336 every 14 days considered "rotating" as you described?


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> I'm totally new to fungicide. Is my plan to alternate the clearys and 3336 every 14 days considered "rotating" as you described?


Clearys is a brand, not a product. Clearys 3336F is a mode 1 fungicide. Rotating means applying a different mode of action from a different product before reapplying 3336F.

Example would be:
3336F (mode 1), followed by
Propiconazole (mode 3), followed by,
Azoxystrobin (mode 11).

Repeat the cycle as needed.

If you don't rotate, the fungus will mutate, reproduce and become resistant to the products.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

i made a typo in my prior post that was very confusing.

what i meant to say was a bi-weekly rotation of 3336 (1; Thiophanate-methyl) and Propiconazole (3). i was under the impression those were different modes of action.

you added azoxy (11) the rotation. what's the rationale for that? just to put more time between applications of 3336? to round out a total preventative program?

thanks!


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> what i meant to say was a bi-weekly rotation of 3336 (1; Thiophanate-methyl) and Propiconazole (3). i was under the impression those were different modes of action.
> 
> you added azoxy (11) the rotation. what's the rationale for that? just to put more time between applications of 3336? to round out a total preventative program?
> 
> thanks!


Yes, 3336 is a different mode of action than Propiconazole. I added Azoxystrobin because it's best to have at least 3 in your arsenal, but also because you mentioned using DiseaseEx, which is just Azoxystrobin.

You're well on your way!


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

ionicatoms said:


> Texas_Bermuda said:
> 
> 
> > what i meant to say was a bi-weekly rotation of 3336 (1; Thiophanate-methyl) and Propiconazole (3). i was under the impression those were different modes of action.
> ...


good man, thank you! i'm going to pick up some liquid azoxy then... it aint cheap!!

thanks so much for all your help! will report back in a few weeks.


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

Try to get a split from the marketplace section of this forum. The cheapest I've found is a product called Abound which is the same thing as you find elsewhere for less money.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> Here's a better pic (with my new iPhone! Finally switch from Samsung. Oh vey)
> 
> Is this a distinctive pattern of any fungus on a wide blade zoysia like palisades?
> 
> ...


Circling back in this fungus thread after 8 weeks of curative measures. The fungus is more widespread now. It was only near the pool previously and now it wholly across the 1100sft yard. There are now purple colorings and more of these disfigured thin golden blades. You can see the difference versus the original pics above from early may.

Any idea what's going on here?

FYI- In the last 8 weeks I've applied prop; 3336; prop/azoxy in three label-abiding intervals.


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## Jap274 (Jun 22, 2021)

@Texas_Bermuda 
Jumping into the conversation here because I too am seeing that same "deterioration" of top half of the blade brown and skinny and healthy blade below that. I went to the local fertilizer supplier to get their input. Guy there said he does not have any reason to think it is fungus (fungus problems will show up in small areas/circles, not be an immediate widespread problem.) I just starting using a used push reel that wasn't very sharp and we concluded that it was probably folding the grass over instead of snipping it, and the brown tops were due to damage from the mower (all the blades have the same ratio of brown-top to green-bottom, indicating a mowing height consistency)
He recommended backlapping the reel weekly to keep the blades sharp and the blades will not experience this "stripping" between the blade and bed knife. Hope this eases your worry a bit and gives you a new game plan. Sharpen your reel and this damage won't occur (as often).


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## Viru (Apr 11, 2020)

My palisade was sodded last year, and dealt with dollar spot most of last year, some this year but better with prevention (headwayG) and spraying eagle20 at curative rate at first sign.

those last two pics really does not look bad at all, overall the leaves seems health, some some browning at cut site which maybe due to dull blade. Those thin blades of dried grass may just be clippings.

One thing that helped me was dethatching my lawn since thatch seems to be a medium for fungus, I was surprised how much had build up in one year old sod, despite me always bagging my clipping.

I also bough 3336G just so i can rotate fungicides.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Thanks everyone. Here's a better pic of the grass. Any ideas for hats going on here?? Took this pic inspired by @ionicatoms suggestion.


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

Can you get some more clear pics of the stolons and roots? The tip death has me wondering what is blocking the leaf from getting adequate exchange.

Looks like you treated with Azoxystrobin… did you water it in so that it entered the plant via the roots?

If it's not some sort of fungus, then could be nematodes or anything else that interferes with root/stolon function.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

ionicatoms said:


> Can you get some more clear pics of the stolons and roots? The tip death has me wondering what is blocking the leaf from getting adequate exchange.
> 
> Looks like you treated with Azoxystrobin… did you water it in so that it entered the plant via the roots?
> 
> If it's not some sort of fungus, then could be nematodes or anything else that interferes with root/stolon function.


Nematodes!? I've only ever heard @Greendoc speak of them! thought it couldn't happen to me! Ha.

Here's a more complete pic although unsure how helpful. Having a hard time removing the very clay based sod layer to reveal the roots. Did find this guy in there as well. Unsure what he is.

I'm terms of other environmental issues, the soil is heavily limestone based (ph=8) and the lawn only received about 4 hours of direct sun, plus maybe 1-2 more of dappled morning.


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

@Texas_Bermuda that guy is a grub worm, and they feed off the roots. I would put some imidacloprid down which should help if it's grubs causing the issue.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

I'm not convinced it's all grubs though. I did the soapy water test and nothing came up. Two years ago I had army worms in my Bermuda (which I subsequently replaced for other reasons), and a bunch of army worms came up. This seems different. Not ruling out grubs, but the devolution of the grass this year has been a bummer (see the pics up top this thread with the wispy golden thread looking blades).

Doesn't the purple/red coloring suggest a fungus?


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## rotolow (May 13, 2020)

Just to add to this. I had the same withered blades on most of my hybrid bermuda after the 2-3 weeks of almost daily rainfall we've had here in central Texas.

A couple of days ago had to do a reset cut (dang it looks bad). I went with a preventative rate of 3336 and Azoxy, 1lb of N, .25lb of K, and sprayed some Main Event. I'm hopeful it pushes whatever it is out.

I think a lot of this might have to do with the extreme amount of rainfall we've gotten this year.


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## Vatintman1 (May 26, 2021)

Start with this, sharpen your blade or reel/bedknife. Zoysia hates a dull blade or a reel improperly cutting. Treat for grubs because you do have them, granular would be fine.
If you have some cooler days or overcast slightly lower your cutting height to remove the improper cutting marks at least I believe thats what those are. But dont scalp it in the heat. You could also do a small test plot with scissors first if you want.

Everything looks ok but if this continues maybe its nematodes but you usually see yellow first at least from my education and textbook learning, ive never dealt with nematodes personally, well I hope im having a issue with yellow grass right now and sent greendoc a PM with pics.

Good luck hope this helps


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Thanks all. I bought a reel mower and dropped HOC from 2" to 1". Probably a mistake in the heat, grass looks yellowish all over but hoping with the last hit of PgR wearing off it'll grow back quickly. Will hit it with another round of fungicide as I agree with the prior posters that the rainy spring plus my shaded yard plus my perimeter walls plus fence breed the fungus.

@ionicatoms no I did not water in the azoxy. I thought that it was foliar uptake. I have 3336, azoxy and prop; could I ask how would you recommend I hit it with one more curative app?


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## ionicatoms (Mar 8, 2020)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> @ionicatoms no I did not water in the azoxy. I thought that it was foliar uptake. I have 3336, azoxy and prop; could I ask how would you recommend I hit it with one more curative app?


All three of those fungicides are upward moving within the plant; in order to get full protection throughout the roots, rhizomes, and stolons (and above), they need to be watered in lightly or applied with plenty of water.

I'm not sure which fungicide in particular will be the best match to your symptoms. At this point, I'm not even sure you are looking at a fungal disease, but keeping up your rotation and watering in your next series of apps may be prudent in any case.


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