# Soil Test Comparisons



## mmaer (Mar 19, 2020)

In my first post (https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=15789), I discussed my plans for the upcoming year and posted the results of my Yard Mastry soil test. After reading the responses and browsing around a bit, I decided to send more soil off to Waypoint this week. The tests were done roughly two weeks apart, and I did toss down 50# of dolomitic lime per square foot a little over a week ago (before the Waypoint soil was collected). I found some of the differences interesting (specifically the iron)…




























I'm going to with Waypoint results and am planning on using their recommendations. My goal is to have a nice lawn (as good as it can get for old turf that was never maintained) for the next few months, get the soil in better shape, and kill everything off at the end of July and do a complete reno with 80% TTTF/20% KBG. I'll be starting a lawn journal shortly to document the journey.

I have the following products on hand:

•	Urea 
•	Carbon X
•	N-EXT products (RGS, Air-8, Humic12, and Micro Greene 0-0-2)
•	The Andersons Prodiamine
•	Milo
•	SOP
•	21-0-0-24S Ammonium Sulfate
•	Iron Sulfate 50% 5% S

I was looking for feedback or anything you guys would recommend doing outside of the Waypoint recommendations knowing a complete reno is coming. Thanks!


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Wow, what a difference. It is a very different test method. Here are my thoughts around Mysoil.

I'm glad you used a real lab because we now can address some issues. First is that you need lime to fix the pH. You should use dolomitic lime to raise the magnesium like waypoint indicates. Do 50lb/ksqft now.

Since the pH is low, you should not use the ammonium sulfate (ok if you just want to do FAS).

Your soils CEC is low. This correlates with a soil that is mostly sand. It won't hold nutrients that great. I recommend any applications to be split in half and apply twice a month instead of one monthly application.

Phosphorus is very high. I think you should avoid the biosolids (eg Milo).

Potassium is very low (deficient). The SOP you have should address this.

Iron is at a great level. You should not need to add anymore.

I would not worry about boron right now. If one of the products you have has manganese, then apply it, but don't worry too much about it. Let's get the pH addressed first.

Check the Soil Remediation Guide for details on application rates, frequency and products.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Although the author is discussing the Haney method, his analysis hold true for the Soil Savvy and MySoil tests:
https://agronomypro.com/Haney-soil-test.pdf


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## mmaer (Mar 19, 2020)

Thanks, I'm glad I went with Waypoint as well.

Lime is down @ 50lb/ksqft. The SOP will go down next. It seems like 2lb/ksqft split apps seem to be the norm and what I will go with.

From what I'm reading, the soil CEC is challenging to adjust. In my previous thread, a member suggested tilling in compost before seed down during my reno. Is that something you'd recommend?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Your OM is at 4%, so I don't think compost will cause a drastic help. You will need to bring in clay soil, but that will be impossible to mix. One of the stated benefits of biochar is to increase CEC. You could try xsoil.

But don't stress about it. Knowledge is power and now you know that you should do split apps. Golf greens are done on sand, therefore you can have a great lawn.


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