# California Trimmer Reel Mower Questions



## jbrown

http://caltrimmer.com



Do you have a California Trimmer reel mower and have a question about working on it? Do you have something to share? Ask or share here.


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## Ware

jbrown said:


> http://caltrimmer.com
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a California Trimmer reel mower and have a question about working on it? Do you have something to share? Ask or share here.


Ha, dfw forgot one! Do you run one?


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## jbrown

[/quote]Ha, dfw forgot one! Do you run one?[/quote]

I do, a 25" with a front roller.

JB


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## trc

Here's mine:


I have it serviced every spring at Peachtree Mowers but the cut starts to degrade by fall. I probably need to backlap throughout the season but not havent found the kit anywhere to do so. Any advice on what is required to backlap and keep the reel in shape?


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## Mightyquinn

trc said:


> Here's mine:
> 
> 
> I have it serviced every spring at Peachtree Mowers but the cut starts to degrade by fall. I probably need to backlap throughout the season but not havent found the kit anywhere to do so. Any advice on what is required to backlap and keep the reel in shape?


All you need is some backlapping compound and figure out how to turn the reel with a cordless drill. Can you take a picture of what's under that cover on the side of the mower.

It's real easy to do and once you do it once or twice you will kick yourself for paying someone else to do it


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## SGrabs33

That's one sharp looking reel! Love the look of the CalTrimmers.


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## Spammage

I've got a 20" and they are good mowers - just not heavy enough to cut my zoysia. Shoot, now the 27" TruCut has started trying to "float" a little. If you go to caltrimmer.com you can get a number for Evergreen turf equipment. They are nice guys and can hook you up with the backlapping tool. You will have to remove the reel chain and the tool fits over the sprocket.


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## Ware

Spammage said:


>


That's pretty slick! :thumbup:


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## SGrabs33

Yeah, that adapter is really nice.


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## trc

Spammage said:


> I've got a 20" and they are good mowers - just not heavy enough to cut my zoysia. Shoot, now the 27" TruCut has started trying to "float" a little. If you go to caltrimmer.com you can get a number for Evergreen turf equipment. They are nice guys and can hook you up with the backlapping tool. You will have to remove the reel chain and the tool fits over the sprocket.


Just called and ordered their backlapping kit which includes the adapter. Thanks Spammage!


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## Spammage

:thumbup:


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## SGrabs33

I saw this while on the Cal Trimmer FB page looking around. I do not believe they were ever put into production at any point but they sure are cool.


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## Cory

SGrabs33 said:


> I saw this while on the Cal Trimmer FB page looking around. I do not believe they were ever put into production at any point but they sure are cool.


I just ordered 20" last Friday, a rear roller was not an option on any of the models, only the front.


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## ABC123

Is $600 extra worth 5 in? As in going from a 20 to 25in


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## Cory

ABC123 said:


> Is $600 extra worth 5 in? As in going from a 20 to 25in


I wish I would have bought the 25", the extra money would have been worth it to me. We have a large lawn, if you have a smaller lawn then the 20" should be fine


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## DJLCN

Spammage said:


>


Here is the backlapping tool I made for my Trimmer. I was afraid the tool you have would damage the gear and be hard to keep engaged while using. The one I made slides over the hub and I tighten the set screws into the hub set screw holes.


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## Spammage

Nice work! The tool sent by Trimmer works great with no real risk of damaging the sprocket though, and I think would be significantly easier to obtain for most people rather than making one like yours.


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## Shindoman

I have a 25" commercial Trimmer. It's a beast for my lawn. It cut's great but where I live in the Pacific Northwest it rains A LOT! When you drop the drive roller it will rip up the lawn. well Annoy's me greatly.


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## SGrabs33

Shindoman said:


> I have a 25" commercial Trimmer. It's a beast for my lawn. It cut's great but where I live in the Pacific Northwest it rains A LOT! When you drop the drive roller it will rip up the lawn. well Annoy's me greatly.


Very nice! Where do you keep that beast in your new/clean garage?

One of the recommendations they have is to give it a push(freewheel) before dropping the drive wheel. I assume you've already tried that though. I often have issues with my TruCut spinning its wheels in the areas of my lawn that stay more wet than the others. Sometimes I just manually push the reel through those areas.

I'm a little late on this but welcome to the forum!


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## Shindoman

SGrabs33 said:


> Shindoman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 25" commercial Trimmer. It's a beast for my lawn. It cut's great but where I live in the Pacific Northwest it rains A LOT! When you drop the drive roller it will rip up the lawn. well Annoy's me greatly.
> 
> 
> 
> Very nice! Where do you keep that beast in your new/clean garage?
> 
> One of the recommendations they have is to give it a push(freewheel) before dropping the drive wheel. I assume you've already tried that though. I often have issues with my TruCut spinning its wheels in the areas of my lawn that stay more wet than the others. Sometimes I just manually push the reel through those areas.
> 
> I'm a little late on this but welcome to the forum!
Click to expand...

I actually keep it in my Garden shed. It's pretty organized also but not as fancy as my garage.
I do always try and give it a bit of a push but at the end of a pass I'm back up against the garden beds and don't have enough room to give it a decent shove. Thanks for the welcome.


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## Bermuda_Newbie

I just inherited (borrowed-ish) a Trimmer lawn mower 20" from my grandfather-in-law. It will probably end up being mine as I don't see him using it now that he's in a house that has fescue. At 90, he's still mowing his own lawn which is impressive on its own. It's a 1985 and we were able to get it up and going. I just sent it to the shop to have the reel sharpened and the engine looked over because it sat for some time (15 years) and has some parts that need to be replaced. The guy at the shop mentioned that I may at some point want to get a 7 blade for the mower. They run about $300. My question for you all is what is the benefit to a 7 blade vs a 5 blade? Also, is it worth the $300 to invest in a mower this old?


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## SGrabs33

Bermuda_Newbie said:


> I just inherited (borrowed-ish) a Trimmer lawn mower 20" from my grandfather-in-law. It will probably end up being mine as I don't see him using it now that he's in a house that has fescue. At 90, he's still mowing his own lawn which is impressive on its own. It's a 1985 and we were able to get it up and going. I just sent it to the shop to have the reel sharpened and the engine looked over because it sat for some time (15 years) and has some parts that need to be replaced. The guy at the shop mentioned that I may at some point want to get a 7 blade for the mower. They run about $300. My question for you all is what is the benefit to a 7 blade vs a 5 blade? Also, is it worth the $300 to invest in a mower this old?


Welcome to the forum!

I love the look of the old CalTrimmers. It's also great that they make replacement parts for them too!

The benefit of a 7 blade over a 5 deals with "Frequency of Cut" (FOC). Basically the lower you want to cut the more blades you should have. Most people on here with REELs and warm season grasses have 7 blades or more.

I am a CalTrimmer dealer and can check on the price I could get for you on a new REEL. If you were to replace the reel you should also replace the bearings while your at it. You right that 300 bucks would be quite a bit when a new one retails for around 1049.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

I would love to see some pics of the REEL if you have any!


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## Bermuda_Newbie

SGrabs33 said:


> I am a CalTrimmer dealer and can check on the price I could get for you on a new REEL. If you were to replace the reel you should also replace the bearings while your at it. You right that 300 bucks would be quite a bit when a new one retails for around 1049.
> 
> Let me know if you have any other questions.
> 
> I would love to see some pics of the REEL if you have any!


I just got it back today. I thought they spray painted it but they said they just cleaned it. Not in bad shape for being 33 years old. I'd love to know if your price is different than the shop for a 7 blade. I don't know that I could install it myself though. They said they tuned it up and it runs better than when it was new because they put some spring in the top part to regulate something. You can see it in the last picture a little bit. I don't know squat about motors so I'll take their word for it. Here's the pictures.


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## Cory

@Bermuda_Newbie Nice! I see they haven't changed much in 33 years :lol:


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## SGrabs33

@Bermuda_Newbie That's looks great all cleaned up!

Here is a great video on a few of the replacement parts that they make for the older versions.


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## Gudor

Here is what I made up after looking at YouTube videos(probably the same one SGrabs33 mentioned above). Simple and CHEAP. I got a 5/8 deep socket (12 pt., not 6 pt.), drilled and tapped a 1/4x20 hole. The smaller hole with cotter pin is not necessary (IIRC), I think I added it so I could backlap a little push reel mower. Use an extension on a drill (I prefer corded for this) with swivels before and after the extension - works like a dream.



Edit: turns out I had to back lap my McClane (tuning to sell), so I made up the same modified socket (11/16 in this case). In the following picture, strapping drill to long board makes it pretty safe (IMO). This particular drill is nice because it has a setting for 300 RPMs, and even when you add compound it keeps the RPMs consistent.


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## Rule11

Just replaced the old 5-Blade with a 7- Blade Reel. The folks at Evergreen Turf Equipment were awesome. Replaced the bearings with ease. New reel and bed knife kit. The Reel Roller shows up today. It is an investment but I will be using this strictly for my small 1000 sqft back yard. My commercial 25" is just to much for the back yard. So exited to put down some stripes today.



This Reno is at almost 4 weeks. Ready to start bringing down the HOC.


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## SGrabs33

@Rule11 Very cool, I love the look of the older CalTrimmer REELs!


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## Rule11

SGrabs33 said:


> @Rule11 Very cool, I love the look of the older CalTrimmer REELs!


@SGrabs33
Thank You! Once it's complete I will post a photo of big brother (25") and little brother (20") side by side in the garage


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## Gudor

That is awesome Rule11,

Was the change because you want the HOC lower? If so, what height did you decide was okay with the 5 blade but lower required the 7?

Looks great back there...love the brick border.


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## Rule11

Gudor said:


> That is awesome Rule11,
> 
> Was the change because you want the HOC lower? If so, what height did you decide was okay with the 5 blade but lower required the 7?
> 
> Looks great back there...love the brick border.


No, just wanted a fresh reel. My 25" has a 7 blade so I went with the same. Front yard is at 9/16" which I brought up from 7/16" because I need to lighten up the thatch layer. Hopefully back down to 7/16" next summer. The back yard is still young. So I hope to have it under an 1" by the end of this growing season. And slowly bring it down to a 1/2" by next year. The 20" and 25" Cal Trimmers are listed as different cutting heights. The 25" is in 1/16" scales and the HO 20" is in 1/8". That's why I say 1/2" in the back and 7/16" in the front next year.


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## Bermuda_Newbie

Rule11 said:


> The 25" is in 1/16" scales and the HO 20" is in 1/8". That's why I say 1/2" in the back and 7/16" in the front next year.


Is there a scale on your mower or do you have something to measure it with? I'm going to adjust the height on mine but I was just going to eyeball what looked good on my grass. Is there a way to me more accurate without buying a measuring device? I didn't see anything on my Trimmer mower but is a 1985.


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## Rule11

Here is a ball park for standard 20" Home Owner Cal Trimmer models


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## Bermuda_Newbie

Thank you!


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## Rule11

Big Bro and little Bro, even sporting a little TLF swag from @Ware


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## Ware

Rule11 said:


> Big Bro and little Bro, even sporting a little TLF swag from @Ware


Very cool. :thumbup:


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## Gudor

Those look sweet...the reels definitely make me think - one day maybe I will pull the trigger and change my 5 blade.


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## Rule11

Finally learned how to back lap my reels! Love it. So glad I jumped off the fear cliff and went for it. At least now I will know how much effort is going into my reels. Also save a few hundred dollars a year.


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## SGrabs33

Rule11 said:


> Finally learned how to back lap my reels! Love it. So glad I jumped off the fear cliff and went for it. At least now I will know how much effort is going into my reels. Also save a few hundred dollars a year.


Looks like you have a great set up there to do it!


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## Rule11

Thanks, just took some ideas I have seen from others. Works great for a "makeshift". This winter I refine it with a adjustable trigger mechanism so I don't have to hold down the trigger. Did both 20" and 25" this evening. That new reel on that 20" was perfect. The commercial 25" was a bit more of a challenge. But improved the cut as well. Cut my back yard Reno for the first time today with the 20" at 1 1/4" HOC. Slowly going to bring her down.


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## SGrabs33

Rule11 said:


> Thanks, just took some ideas I have seen from others. Works great for a "makeshift". This winter I refine it with a adjustable trigger mechanism so I don't have to hold down the trigger. Did both 20" and 25" this evening. That new reel on that 20" was perfect. The commercial 25" was a bit more of a challenge. But improved the cut as well. Cut my back yard Reno for the first time today with the 20" at 1 1/4" HOC. Slowly going to bring her down.


Looking forward to seeing your Reno. Love the pics of the 20" and 25" side by side!


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## Rule11

It will be a nice weekend. I will take some pics this weekend. This was a light start because I seeded in June. I new it would be a bit of a gamble but wanted to get some turf established so when I do a heavy mid August sand and over seed it would really take off. I think some of the PRG is getting a little heat stress. But I am still learning like most of us.


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## Shindoman

I seem to have a problem with my 25" commercial that I would describe as torque steer. It's hard to drive a straight line as the mower wants to twist to the side. I'm cutting at 3/4" and the problem is not bad. Trying to cut at 1/2" and it is really hard to keep straight. It also seems like the bed knife digs in at the lower height. I have a 7 blade reel. Does anyone else experience this?


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## SGrabs33

Shindoman said:


> I seem to have a problem with my 25" commercial that I would describe as torque steer. It's hard to drive a straight line as the mower wants to twist to the side. I'm cutting at 3/4" and the problem is not bad. Trying to cut at 1/2" and it is really hard to keep straight. It also seems like the bed knife digs in at the lower height. I have a 7 blade reel. Does anyone else experience this?


Is the roller spinning well? Make sure there isn't any resistance keeping that from spinning. Are the sides of the Mower dragging on the turf causing it to try and turn. That would usually be due to the density of your turf. If that's the case with either the sides or bedknife digging in it may help to do a light verticutting to thin everything out a bit. I've noticed before that as the summer goes on this is more likely to happen.


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## Shindoman

SGrabs33 said:


> Shindoman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I seem to have a problem with my 25" commercial that I would describe as torque steer. It's hard to drive a straight line as the mower wants to twist to the side. I'm cutting at 3/4" and the problem is not bad. Trying to cut at 1/2" and it is really hard to keep straight. It also seems like the bed knife digs in at the lower height. I have a 7 blade reel. Does anyone else experience this?
> 
> 
> 
> Is the roller spinning well? Make sure there isn't any resistance keeping that from spinning. Are the sides of the Mower dragging on the turf causing it to try and turn. That would usually be due to the density of your turf. If that's the case with either the sides or bedknife digging in it may help to do a light verticutting to thin everything out a bit. I've noticed before that as the summer goes on this is more likely to happen.
Click to expand...

Roller seems fine. I was thinking it was due to thick turf. Mine is very very thick. I'm probably in need of a 10 blade reel to cut at 1/2". I prob won't spend the money on a new reel as I have my eye on a Swardman reel mower. The trimmer is too big and heavy for my yard. I have a couple of small areas under 200 sq. ft. that I need to push it up a ramp to access.


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## SGrabs33

@Shindoman Yeah, the thick turf makes a lot of sense. I'm not sure if a 10 blade REEL would help much for that. Many people have had good luck with the $100ish dollar dethatchers & thinning their turf. Maybe that could help you out & thin the turf for a low entry point. Might be worth a try.


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## Shindoman

SGrabs33 said:


> @Shindoman Yeah, the thick turf makes a lot of sense. I'm not sure if a 10 blade REEL would help much for that. Many people have had good luck with the $100ish dollar dethatchers & thinning their turf. Maybe that could help you out & thin the turf for a low entry point. Might be worth a try.


SGrabs33, I did borrow my friends cheap electric dethatcher about a month ago and it did a pretty good job. I'm holding out for the Sawrdman as it has verticutter and scarifier cartridges that would be a huge help. Just glad to know that my Caltrimmer is not out of adjustment or anything like that.
Thanks


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## Rule11

SGrabs33 said:


> Rule11 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, just took some ideas I have seen from others. Works great for a "makeshift". This winter I refine it with a adjustable trigger mechanism so I don't have to hold down the trigger. Did both 20" and 25" this evening. That new reel on that 20" was perfect. The commercial 25" was a bit more of a challenge. But improved the cut as well. Cut my back yard Reno for the first time today with the 20" at 1 1/4" HOC. Slowly going to bring her down.
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to seeing your Reno. Love the pics of the 20" and 25" side by side!
Click to expand...

First Cut at 1 1/8". It's a bit of a shock to her. But she will get used to it.


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## SGrabs33

@Rule11 Looking good!


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## Shindoman

Nice!


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## Ware

That is a good looking machine - I think a brand new reel mower is what dreams are made of.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bi6-xwBBoE-/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link


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## SGrabs33

Had to reshare this great pic that @Shindoman shared with me here in the CalTrimmer thread!


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## Cory

Nice! @SGrabs33 I hav a couple from th other day. If you want to use them you are welcome to.


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## SGrabs33

Thanks @Cory, your yard is looking as great as ever!


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## SGrabs33

FYI on a new stand we're offering. Great for maintenance!

https://instagram.com/p/BnUe0cSBUcm/


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## MatthewinGA

I love seeing those flat level lawns but, I have 3 hills to cut (about 15 degrees) with some flat areas.

Do these go up hill easily or are they only for flat, level (90 degree) lawns.

I have Bermudagrass. I use the Honda HRR216 with rear wheel drive and bagger in the spring and fall. When it gets hot, I use the 46" riding mower mulching.

I'm I really going to want to push this thing uphill in the summer?


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## SGrabs33

@MatthewinGA These are self propelled and work pretty well on inclines. Here is a pic of my front hill that gets cut with a REEL. The incline on this hill is around 30 degrees.


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## Cory

That's pretty cool @SGrabs33!

@MatthewinGA I can't speak for other brands but with the California trimmer you don't have push, it does just fine by itself. The rubber drum is the reason why I chose it and not a greens mower. I'm sure a greens mower couldn't handle my ditch but the trimmer handles it like a champ horizontally and vertically


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## MatthewinGA

@SGrabs33 @Cory

Thanks guys.

You mentioned a rubber drum. What do the others have? Does the rubber slide in wet (dew) grass, any slippage?


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## MatthewinGA

@Cory

In picture 3, what is your neighbors doing wrong? Because MAN!!! You got it right !!!


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## Cory

@MatthewinGA Trimmer, Mclane and some tru-cuts have a rubber drive drum. The nicer Tru-cuts have rubber drive tires. Greens mowers have bare aluminum drive drums. Here is a photo of the drive drum in my trimmer


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## MatthewinGA

@Cory that's like a big fat tire. 
What's the HP?


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## Cory

@MatthewinGA I have never had a problem with slipping with mine.

He doesn't fertilize or water and only mows once every two weeks. The builder didn't install irrigation so it's alot of extra work to keep it green when we don't get any rain. More effort than most people have time for or are willing to put in to keep it nice is my guess. Neighbors probably think I'm nuts out there every two days mowing and such, if we didn't work from home I doubt my lawn would look as good as it does.

Mine has the Honda GX 120 motor, 3.5 hp, 5.4 torque


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## MatthewinGA

My sentiments exactly (WFH) and I spend too much time and money on my lawn.

Let them think what they want about us...

Some of my neighbors have no self respect, dignity in their home or respect for other neighbors/Neighboorhood.

Some don't even mow. No ordinances here for lawns- Some leave all their clippings on the sidewalk and in the middle of the street.

SHAMEFUL in a brand new neighborhood-


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## NanserbE

Got this from someone at my station, can anyone tell me more about it?





$150. Blade was sharpened last year. I changed the oil today, changed the fuel out to ethanol free and put in seafoam. It's already running great. Lawn is down to 1 1/8" already.

Might be a winter restoration in a month or two after I purchase a few cans of spray paint.


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## Spammage

@NanserbE it's an older 20" model with a Briggs and Stratton engine and a 5 blade reel. The great thing about these is you can still get parts if you find you need them.


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## NanserbE

@Spammage Sweet! Thanks!

I've been seeing people putting a big single roller across the front, is that a good upgrade?

The blade on this thing is really noisy as well, are they generally quieter? It seems like it's pretty hard to turn and puts a big load on the mower when you have the blade engaged but the wheel still in the air.


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## Spammage

NanserbE said:


> Spammage Sweet! Thanks!
> 
> I've been seeing people putting a big single roller across the front, is that a good upgrade?
> 
> The blade on this thing is really noisy as well, are they generally quieter? It seems like it's pretty hard to turn and puts a big load on the mower when you have the blade engaged but the wheel still in the air.


Sounds like the reel to bedknife is set to tight. When properly set and sharpened, there should be little noise. The adjustment point is the metal rod on each side in front of the tires and sticking up. If I remember correctly, turning them clockwise tightens, so counter clockwise would loosen. I would start by backing off each side about a quarter turn and keep going until you can spin the reel fairly easy with a finger. You may find it's even, or just one side may be to tight. Once you have the right amount of light contact, then backlapping will "mate" the two together and sharpen the cutting surfaces. @SGrabs33 sells them and can help you with parts or the backlapping tool.


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## Cory

@NanserbE here is the owners manual for the current one, not much has changed since that one had been made http://caltrimmer.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/RL20-25-Operators-Manual-4-2016.pdf


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## ABC123

If you find the reel is hard to turn or has to make excessive reel to bed knife contact to cut paper it most likely has a micro burr on the bed knife and just needs to be filed slightly.


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## NanserbE

ABC123 said:


> If you find the reel is hard to turn or has to make excessive reel to bed knife contact to cut paper it most likely has a micro burr on the bed knife and just needs to be filed slightly.


Do you recommend just filing the leading edge really lightly with a file? Or something else?


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## ABC123

NanserbE said:


> ABC123 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you find the reel is hard to turn or has to make excessive reel to bed knife contact to cut paper it most likely has a micro burr on the bed knife and just needs to be filed slightly.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you recommend just filing the leading edge really lightly with a file? Or something else?
Click to expand...

Here's a thread on the tool. https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=2082

I used a soft sharpening stone from the dollar store.


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## NanserbE

ABC123 said:


> NanserbE said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ABC123 said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you find the reel is hard to turn or has to make excessive reel to bed knife contact to cut paper it most likely has a micro burr on the bed knife and just needs to be filed slightly.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you recommend just filing the leading edge really lightly with a file? Or something else?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Here's a thread on the tool. https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=2082
> 
> I used a soft sharpening stone from the dollar store.
Click to expand...

Good thinking, any idea what angle it needs to be?

Or did you do it by hand?


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## ABC123

NanserbE said:


> Good thinking, any idea what angle it needs to be?
> 
> Or did you do it by hand?


I've only done the forward face and had good results so I didn't do the top. You can defiantly feel the knife getting sharper with how much smoother the paper gets cut.

Here's another view I've found that describes it very well on a Facebook comment at the bottom. 



__ https://www.facebook.com/HectorsShop/posts/484444281626018


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## wcampbell42

Hey y'all, long time lurker, first time poster. I had issues towards the end of last season with the drive chain on the left hand side popping off. I am not sure where to tighten in order to correct this. I attempted to tighten the clutch, but that only made it had to engage. If anyone has any advice on this it would be greatly appreciated since the season will be upon us soon.


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## Hexadecimal 00FF00

wcampbell42 said:


> Hey y'all, long time lurker, first time poster. I had issues towards the end of last season with the drive chain on the left hand side popping off. I am not sure where to tighten in order to correct this. I attempted to tighten the clutch, but that only made it had to engage. If anyone has any advice on this it would be greatly appreciated since the season will be upon us soon.


@wcampbell42

Chains stretch. Maybe a link (or more) needs removed.

== Edit ==
The tensioner, that @SGrabs33 mentioned, would be the place to start before messing with chain link removal. Good call, SGrabs33, I didn't think about that.


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## SGrabs33

@wcampbell42 does yours have a chain tensioner like the one circled below? If so you can adjust that so there is only 1/4" movement.



Also as @Hexadecimal 00FF00 said, it's possible that the chain has stretched over time. You can shorten it by taking out a link or a half. Also you could replace the chain. If you do that be sure to count the # of links so that you can match that with the replacement.

Here is the manual for more info.


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## Cory

Which model do you have @wcampbell42? Commercial models are different than the classic models.


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## SGrabs33

Cory said:


> Which model do you have wcampbell42? Commercial models are different than the classic models.


His profile says the 25"


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## wcampbell42

It was a Craigslist find, so I am not sure of the exact model since the sticker has almost all flacked off, but it does have a Honda engine. I suspect late 90's early 00's.

Thank you all for the tips, I will update with what works for me!


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## Cory

Check the bolts that hold the axle to the body, number 15 on the chart. If they are loose there could be some movement in the axle that would throw the chain.


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## raymond

How much would yall pay for a used used 7 reel 25 inch CT? Honda engine... no roller... rust on reel... worn but not much rust on body... probably an older model since the pay is more of an army green than the newer evergreen paint.


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## Bermuda_Newbie

raymond said:


> How much would yall pay for a used used 7 reel 25 inch CT? Honda engine... no roller... rust on reel... worn but not much rust on body... probably an older model since the pay is more of an army green than the newer evergreen paint.


You can find the year by looking at the model number. I can't remember exactly how but if you google it, you can find some guy telling you exactly what the model numbers are for the year on gardenweb. That's how I found out mine was an '85.


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## SGrabs33

raymond said:


> How much would yall pay for a used used 7 reel 25 inch CT? Honda engine... no roller... rust on reel... worn but not much rust on body... probably an older model since the pay is more of an army green than the newer evergreen paint.


I love the look of the older models! It kinda depends on how the reel looks and if it needs to be replaced soon. A new REEL/bedknife/bearings combo would probably run around 300-400. Honda engine is a plus. Roller would cost your around 140ish depending on shipping.


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## raymond

@SGrabs33 @Bermuda_Newbie

Few additional pictures. Current asking price is $700-thoughts?


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## Spammage

@raymond that would be a pass for me with the condition of the reel. That reel looks like it should have been replaced a few years ago.


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## Bermuda_Newbie

@raymond The ones in that condition on Craigslist sell for around $300 in my area. I'm sure this varies by region and it may be a little higher with the 7 blade depending on whether it has been sharpened recently.


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## SGrabs33

@raymond there is the same model in Gwinnett for only 550. That's a little more reasonable. The reel looks cleaner on that one too. I'd still try and talk him down a little off 550 though.


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## Cory

@raymond No way I would pay that much for that, especially in the Atlanta area. Definitely needs a new reel, most likely a bedknife, a roller, no grass catcher, probably needs new bearings, and anything else it may need that you can't see. By the time you add all that up plus labor you may as well buy a new one. I wouldn't pay more than $300 for it personally.


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## wcampbell42

I bought that same one for $250 a few years ago, also in the Atlanta area. Its a good mower, but definitely not worth that much.
I'd definitely check craigslist, looks like some much better deals out there. 
https://atlanta.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=reel%20mower&sort=rel


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## raymond

wcampbell42 said:


> I bought that same one for $250 a few years ago, also in the Atlanta area. Its a good mower, but definitely not worth that much.
> I'd definitely check craigslist, looks like some much better deals out there.
> https://atlanta.craigslist.org/search/sss?query=reel%20mower&sort=rel


Agree - many tru-cut and mcleans... dont think i'm interested in either given what' i've read in this forum


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## Bermuda_Newbie

Yesterday my front yard now with Bermuda was mowed for the first time. My husband mowed it for me due to our upcoming arrival of baby #2 so this is second hand info but... He said it was extremely difficult to go up the hill in our yard and maneuver the mower around. The grass was dry when mowed. I know there are some of us here that have some pretty steep hills @Cory has that ditch and I think there have been some others. He was thinking that maybe our drive wheel is too worn down to propel the mower. The mower is 34 years old so it's not unthinkable that the tread may have seen better days. Can anyone comment on whether that would be the issue here? I've attached pictures of our hill (older pictures but same steepness) and the tread on the drive wheel.


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## Cory

@Bermuda_Newbie it does look a bit slick but Not sure if that's what the problem is. It does look like it wouldn't hurt to replace it though, the treads on mine are more of a soft rubber yours looks hard. Could it be hanging up on the the bumps in between the sod? What hight is it set at? I can't mow with mine set lower than 5/8" because the bedknife will drag on the crest of my ditch.


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## Bermuda_Newbie

Cory said:


> @Bermuda_Newbie it does look a bit slick but Not sure if that's what the problem is. It does look like it wouldn't hurt to replace it though, the treads on mine are more of a soft rubber yours looks hard. Could it be hanging up on the the bumps in between the sod? What hight is it set at? I can't mow with mine set lower than 5/8" because the bedknife will drag on the crest of my ditch.


My husband said it slides like the grass is wet even though it wasn't. It wasn't getting stuck on the sod lines which aren't as pronounce now than they were. He said he wanted to try lowering it before we bought a new drive wheel. I found one on eBay for $140. I don't want to spend the money on it but I'm concerned that lowering it will just gouge the lawn. I don't know what height of cut it was set at since I didn't cut it. I told him to go as low as he could since it was the first mow. He said no scraping like you experienced but your ditch is really steep. He wants to try gluing some tire tread on it. I'm not a fan of this idea.


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## SGrabs33

@Bermuda_Newbie the cost for a new one should be cheaper than 140. Also, you said that your model was quite old. The older models have an 8 inch rear roller while the newer ones have a 9 inch.


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## Bermuda_Newbie

SGrabs33 said:


> @Bermuda_Newbie the cost for a new one should be cheaper than 140. Also, you said that your model was quite old. The older models have an 8 inch rear roller while the newer ones have a 9 inch.


Do you think the roller could be the issue? I hate to spend the money if it's just going to keep happening. What do you think of jerry-rigging some tread over it? I'd love a quote by the way if you can get me one.


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## Cory

@Bermuda_Newbie it looks like it has markes on it from spinning. Ask him if he tilts back on the handle if it will take off. The chain that lifts the drum could possibly be too short. That chain doesn't look like it's original.

Sheesh, sorry for all the edits, typos killing me haha


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## Bermuda_Newbie

Cory said:


> @Bermuda_Newbie it looks like it has markes on it from spinning. Ask him if he tilts back on the handle if it will take off. The chain that lifts the drum could possibly be too short. That chain doesn't look like it's original.
> 
> Sheesh, sorry for all the edits, typos killing me haha


The chain isn't original or at least I don't think it is and was shortened a little because it was digging into the ground and causing marks. That's something we'll try first. He did mention that it was just spinning if it was lowered more. I haven't had the same issue mowing in the backyard but it's flat. Unfortunately I probably won't be able to mow myself for the next month or so.


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## hefegrass

well, i have a brand new california trimmer with a nice treaded roller and im currently shopping for a rotary mower because this trimmer will not go up hills. i have the front roller, it doesnt help and possibly hurts on the hills since it takes more weight off the rear drive wheel. I really hope once my lawn fully grows in it will have traction on the hills.


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## Bermuda_Newbie

hefegrass said:


> well, i have a brand new california trimmer with a nice treaded roller and im currently shopping for a rotary mower because this trimmer will not go up hills. i have the front roller, it doesnt help and possibly hurts on the hills since it takes more weight off the rear drive wheel. I really hope once my lawn fully grows in it will have traction on the hills.


What does it do when you try and go up the hill? Do you have to push it or is it just hard to maneuver?


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## hefegrass

it spins the tread and sometimes tears the grass up, with the metal roller and/or the hopper up front its even worse. I have
plenty of slack in the chain, the tread roller is making good contact with the ground.


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## SGrabs33

@Bermuda_Newbie I would def try to lengthen the chain first to see if that helps. Is does look like the roller is quite worn though.

@hefegrass I would also recommend trying to lengthen the chain for you. I have some chain extensions for the newer models so if you want to give that a try I can send you a couple.

Sometimes the roller doesn't touch the grass at this time of the year cause people are cutting at the lowest heights and there isn't too much grass For the roller to grab onto. The manufacturer is working on a more robust fix for this to be able to shorten and lengthen the chain more easily. In the meantime it's probably easiest to keep the chain a little long and then when the grass starts growing more you can shorten the chain with a simple lock nut and bolt like the below. Just make sure that when you shorten the chain the rear roller is not hitting the frame.


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## hefegrass

SGrabs33 said:


> @Bermuda_Newbie I would def try to lengthen the chain first to see if that helps. Is does look like the roller is quite worn though.
> 
> @hefegrass I would also recommend trying to lengthen the chain for you. I have some chain extensions for the newer models so if you want to give that a try I can send you a couple.
> 
> Sometimes the roller doesn't touch the grass at this time of the year cause people are cutting at the lowest heights and there isn't too much grass For the roller to grab onto. The manufacturer is working on a more robust fix for this to be able to shorten and lengthen the chain more easily. In the meantime it's probably easiest to keep the chain a little long and then when the grass starts growing more you can shorten the chain with a simple lock nut and bolt like the below. Just make sure that when you shorten the chain the rear roller is not hitting the frame.


that would be very helpful, i was thinking just a little bit of extra length might solve the problem for me.


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## ox1574

Should I purchase this mower??? Just popped up today for $350. The seller estimates it to be around 15 years old, but not sure. I'm still waiting on model/serial # and some additional pics. Below are the initial pics, says he replaced the bedknife and reel last year and has only mowed ~ 10 times since. What are your initial impressions?


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## Cory

ox1574 said:


> Should I purchase this mower??? Just popped up today for $350. The seller estimates it to be around 15 years old, but not sure. I'm still waiting on model/serial # and some additional pics. Below are the initial pics, says he replaced the bedknife and reel last year and has only mowed ~ 10 times since. What are your initial impressions?


Is buy it for $350 for sure. If you could knock them down a little then why not but I would have no problem paying what they are asking. It may be old but it doesn't look like it was used that much.


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## SGrabs33

@ox1574 I agree with @Cory that a good buy. Especially because it's the 25" model and already has a front roller.

Just make sure it operates and cuts as it should.


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## ox1574

Do you guys know where the serial number would be located, and where to plug it in to see when it was manufactured?


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## SGrabs33

ox1574 said:


> Do you guys know where the serial number would be located, and where to plug it in to see when it was manufactured?


You can't really do that with a trimmer. You can probably with the Honda engine though.

Really I wouldn't care about that as long as it operates as it should and the REEL/bedknife are in good condition. If he said those are new, and they are, you should be good. Those are the largest replacement expenses on that machine really.


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## hefegrass

ive noticed my trimmer works much better on hills now that i actually have grass starting to grow
the picture doesnt show the grade too well
my first stripes


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## SGrabs33

hefegrass said:


> ive noticed my trimmer works much better on hills now that i actually have grass starting to grow
> the picture doesnt show the grade too well
> my first stripes


Nice! Yeah, that rear roller grips the fresh green grass a lot better than the dead brown grass.


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## Gksdudrms

Picked up a 25" commercial 7-blade Trimmer with a front roller off CL a month or so ago. I believe it is 30+ years old. The engine was smoking a bit and had some rust but was still cutting grass so took it up to a local shop that gave it a thumbs up. He ground the reel and bedknife and replaced the engine with another used Honda engine (GX160) without charging extra for the engine replacement. It's cutting great and love that I'm finally using a powered reel. The thing is a beast. However, with me knowing squat about engines, I'm not sure if there is anything I may be looking past especially given that it's a used engine.

For one, it feels to me that the noise from the engine is quite loud and the reel makes a lot of noise too when engaged. Having used a manual reel prior, I don't really have a basis for comparing engine sounds. Maybe it just seems loud to me because I had almost no sound before. Also, there's a bit of a vibration on the engine as well as some pinging when starting up. FYI I am using non-ethanol gas.

Like I mentioned, coming from a manual reel, I have no idea based off sound or feel as to what is/isn't working as expected so just throwing it out to those who have had experience with the old commercial Trimmers and older Honda engines. Thanks in advance!


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## Bermuda_Newbie

@Gksdudrms

Mine is both loud and vibrates a fair amount. I use gloves and earplugs and it cuts down on both and makes it usable. It is a big difference coming from a manual. I also had a manual (Fiskars) before I got my grandfather-in-law's 35 year old mower. The cut though is so much better.

If you have a landscape blade for noise comparison, it is quieter than the landscape blade.


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## Gksdudrms

@Bermuda_Newbie That's good to know. Thanks! I just feel bad for my neighbors having to hear the noise 2-3x/week...but they know I am crazy already so..


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## Bermuda_Newbie

Gksdudrms said:


> @Bermuda_Newbie That's good to know. Thanks! I just feel bad for my neighbors having to hear the noise 2-3x/week...but they know I am crazy already so..


I think about this too. I'm a little self-conscious mowing the front yard that much but it needs to be done.


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## Cory

@Gksdudrms if the reel is making a lot of noise while engaged then there is probably too much reel to bedknife contact. The reel and bedknife shouldn't be grinding hard against each other. Mine makes very little noise when engaged. With the mower off can you easily push the mower with the drive drum down? If it's adjusted properly you should be able to push the mower and the reel should spin easily. If I park mine on a slight incline on my driveway it will roll away on its own with the drive drum down.

Not sure what the deal is with the engine but it shouldn't be overly loud either.


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## Bermuda_Newbie

@Cory Mine doesn't roll away. In fact, I need to push pretty hard to get it to roll when it's not on. Do you know what I can adjust to fix this?


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## Gksdudrms

@Cory That was my first thought as well - that the reel to bedknife might be too close. I'll double-check with the guy who serviced it. They're a very well-regarded shop that runs the majority (or all) of their business on servicing reels so I assumed they had properly adjusted it. I'll test pushing the mower with the drive drum down once I get home later today. Thanks for that info!

And regarding the noise, I think it's more from the reel than anything else...the engine just sounds loud to me because I'm used to minimal sound. Also...now that I think about it, could the vibration be coming from too much contact between reel to bedknife? Maybe a quick adjustment there might solve both my issues..hmm


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## SGrabs33

@Gksdudrms let's see your set up! I love the look of the older Trimmers.

I agree with Cory, that there could be just too much contact between the REEL and bedknife. Also, that model is chain driven so that's could be what's making a lot of the noise. You could check all of the chains to see how much slack they gave in them. Excess slack can be quite noisy.


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## Laxton777

Hello everyone,
I am about to purchase my first California trimmer. I live in Central Florida and I have Empire Zoysia grass. Currently I am mowing every 3-4 days with a manual Fiskars 5 blade reel mower. I keep the grass right at 2 inches and sharpen the blades every 2.5 months. There are some minor slopes on the property and if my schedule is off by 1 day, I am killing myself to get the job done. So I'm looking at buying the Cal Trimmer 7 blade Honda "High Cut" to keep the grass about the same height. Does anyone have any thoughts on this purchase with keeping the grass at 2 inches or just below. The pictures I'm looking at are mostly putting greens and very flat. Will this unit have any trouble at this height keeping the grass level? It's a big purchase for me so any thoughts would be appreciated !!!!! Added some pics so you see what I have to work with.


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## Cory

Laxton777 said:


> Hello everyone,
> I am about to purchase my first California trimmer. I live in Central Florida and I have Empire Zoysia grass. Currently I am mowing every 3-4 days with a manual Fiskars 5 blade reel mower. I keep the grass right at 2 inches and sharpen the blades every 2.5 months. There are some minor slopes on the property and if my schedule is off by 1 day, I am killing myself to get the job done. So I'm looking at buying the Cal Trimmer 7 blade Honda "High Cut" to keep the grass about the same height. Does anyone have any thoughts on this purchase with keeping the grass at 2 inches or just below. The pictures I'm looking at are mostly putting greens and very flat. Will this unit have any trouble at this height keeping the grass level? It's a big purchase for me so any thoughts would be appreciated !!!!! Added some pics so you see what I have to work with.


I can't remember exactly what hight it was, I'd have to go outside and switch the roller to the middle adjustment on mine to find out for sure. But these pictures are well over 1" (probably closer to 2") of my backyard. It's common Bermuda and was a bumpy mess.







My front was leveled at the beginning of the year and was being mowed at 5/8" for some of the year but ended up at 1" to 1.25".





You should have no problem keeping your Zoysia at 2" with a California Trimmer.


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## Cory

@Bermuda_Newbie the reel to bedknife adjustment is different depending on the model. Here's the maintenance manual from California Trimmer http://caltrimmer.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Cal-Trimmer-Mower-Maintenance-Manual-Small.pdf


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## Bermuda_Newbie

@Cory thanks! Do you think it's the reel that needs adjusting? I'll take a look at it. The chain that was replaced by my grandpa with what looks like piano chain is getting replaced today since it's breaking. I am mowing my front yard today so I'll be able to see if that fixes some of the noise but I'll have to check out the reel and bed knife if it doesn't fix it. Just like the other guy, it came back from the shop like this so maybe it's just because it's old.


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## Cory

@Bermuda_Newbie it will be ok, I just prefer mine not grinding together so much. The more you use it the more the metals will wear down and it won't be as loud.


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## Spammage

@Laxton777 I really like the CalTrimmers, but my issue with it was the weight and the roller. It works great on my bermuda, but wasn't great on the zoysia. The blades are so stiff that the mower floats and the roller can't get the traction that it needs. I switched to a 27" TruCut which made a huge difference, and now I have a John Deere 220B.


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## SGrabs33

Spammage said:


> Laxton777 I really like the CalTrimmers, but my issue with it was the weight and the roller. It works great on my bermuda, but wasn't great on the zoysia. The blades are so stiff that the mower floats and the roller can't get the traction that it needs. I switched to a 27" TruCut which made a huge difference, and now I have a John Deere 220B.


Sorry, I can't remember what variety of zoysia you have? Is it really fine bladed? If so that can tend to happen if you have a really dense turf. I'm sure the added weight of the 7 extra inches of TruCut helped!

@Laxton777 your Empire is more of a medium blade so the CalTrimmer should work well!


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## Bermuda_Newbie

Cory said:


> @Bermuda_Newbie it will be ok, I just prefer mine not grinding together so much. The more you use it the more the metals will wear down and it won't be as loud.


After mowing my front yard this evening, I realized the noise is from the grass catcher vibrating on the metal bar. My reel is actually ok with it's position. I don't think there is a fix for my grass catcher since it looks like the hooks have seen better days. I guess I could buy a new grass catcher but other than scalping, I'm trying to mow often enough that I don't need it.


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## Spammage

SGrabs33 said:


> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> 
> Laxton777 I really like the CalTrimmers, but my issue with it was the weight and the roller. It works great on my bermuda, but wasn't great on the zoysia. The blades are so stiff that the mower floats and the roller can't get the traction that it needs. I switched to a 27" TruCut which made a huge difference, and now I have a John Deere 220B.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, I can't remember what variety of zoysia you have? Is it really fine bladed? If so that can tend to happen if you have a really dense turf. I'm sure the added weight of the 7 extra inches of TruCut helped!
> 
> @Laxton777 your Empire is more of a medium blade so the CalTrimmer should work well!
Click to expand...

El Toro and Palisades - so very similar to Empire. I know the added weight helps, but I don't know if he's looking at a 20" or 25". Personally I would like to have one of the Peachtree 30" mowers.


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## SGrabs33

@Spammage got ya, thanks. Yeah, those peachtree mowers look nice. Basically a clone of the CalTrimmer 25" models but 30" :shock:


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## Laxton777

Thanks everyone !!!!! The empire is definitely a medium blade. I am looking at the 20" Cal trimmer 7 blade honda motor unit. What are your thought as far as maneuverability? I have several spots (corners) where I push forward to the max and have to pull it back and repeat. Does this unit have a reverse and or with the weight is it difficult to pull back ? California trimmers were the first mowers that I saw, I am guessing that I need to do more research. My manual Fiskars gets a very even cut but I have to double cut the yard in opposite directions to get it perfect and at 47, I'm beginning to realize that I've been trying to "Sprint" my way through life when I should have been taking a nice easy Jog !!!!!!!!


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## Laxton777

Also read on California Trimmers site that they should never be used to cut dry grass due to friction. Can anyone expand on this ? Is everyone cutting their grass when it's wet ? I always use my push mower on dry grass.
"The California Trimmer reel lawnmower should never be used to cut dry grass. The use of the mower while cutting dry grass can cause an excessive amount of friction causing a heating of the blades on the reel and the cutter bar. Without moisture, friction is created and cutting dry grass can cause warping of the cutter bar." -Cal Trimmer-
Thanks again everyone !!


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## hefegrass

im not sure how close empire is to compadre (which is what i was told i have here by a neighbor, how can i get a more accurate assessment?) but I am using the 20in cal trimmer 7 blade high-cut honda version and cutting at 1 5/8" currently. I currently have a front roller installed. I find that it cuts very well, for the small dips and larger hills in my lawn a normal metal roller greens mower would definitely not work.


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## SGrabs33

Laxton777 said:


> Thanks everyone !!!!! The empire is definitely a medium blade. I am looking at the 20" Cal trimmer 7 blade honda motor unit. What are your thought as far as maneuverability? I have several spots (corners) where I push forward to the max and have to pull it back and repeat. Does this unit have a reverse and or with the weight is it difficult to pull back ? California trimmers were the first mowers that I saw, I am guessing that I need to do more research. My manual Fiskars gets a very even cut but I have to double cut the yard in opposite directions to get it perfect and at 47, I'm beginning to realize that I've been trying to "Sprint" my way through life when I should have been taking a nice easy Jog !!!!!!!!


Yes, when you pull up the rear roller is is fairly easy to pull back on it own, aka freewheel. I do this when maneuvering around my mailbox and getting the "close cut side" on each side of my mailbox. There is not actual reverse function. I believe the only reel that is really offered on is the electric Swardman.

As for cutting dry grass.... as long as your grass is green it should have enough moisture in it to be cut and not cause issues. Also a factor for this is how close your REEL/bedknife are set to each other. The main time I would worry about excessive metal to metal contact would be in the spring time when you scalp the dead brown grass. All that being said it's nice to cut the grass when it has a little dew on the blades as it provides a little extra moisture. You can hose the REEL off after the fact but just make sure to Blow it dry after that :thumbup:


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## Laxton777

Thanks Hefe and SGrabs for the info. That was exactly what I needed to hear !!! Looks like I will pull the trigger today on the California trimmer, thanks again to everyone that weighed in. Very much appreciated !!!


----------



## joerob2211

Laxton777 said:


> Thanks Hefe and SGrabs for the info. That was exactly what I needed to hear !!! Looks like I will pull the trigger today on the California trimmer, thanks again to everyone that weighed in. Very much appreciated !!!


I just purchased a cal trimmer and used it today for the first time. I previously used a Jacobsen for the last couple of months but it was to big for my yard. It cut awesome and assembly was easy out of the box. Here is a pic after I cut the grass from 3 inches to 1. I haven't been able to mow in two weeks. Very happy with the purchase.


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## SGrabs33

@joerob2211 nice looking machine you got there! Congrats :thumbup:


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## Gksdudrms

Bermuda_Newbie said:


> @Cory Mine doesn't roll away. In fact, I need to push pretty hard to get it to roll when it's not on. Do you know what I can adjust to fix this?


Been pretty busy lately so haven't been able to post but I did try to roll it as well. It won't budge at all for me no matter how hard I push. More specifically, the rear roller won't budge at all. It just kind of "locks up". Not sure if there's any way to adjust this or if it's absolutely needed just because cut-wise, I'm not having any noticeable issues. :?



SGrabs33 said:


> @Gksdudrms let's see your set up! I love the look of the older Trimmers.
> 
> I agree with Cory, that there could be just too much contact between the REEL and bedknife. Also, that model is chain driven so that's could be what's making a lot of the noise. You could check all of the chains to see how much slack they gave in them. Excess slack can be quite noisy.


I'll try to snap a photo soon! My camera on my phone is broken so I'll need to have my wife snap some. But yeah, the older look is really growing on me.

Also, I think you may be onto something with the chain. The chain at times gets loose when idling and gets really loud but snaps back on when I re-engage the reel. Not sure if that makes any sense. I'll look into the posts on the chain adjustments and see if I can figure it out. I checked with my shop and they confirmed that they adjusted the reel to bedknife so I think I can rule that out as a culprit. Anyways, thanks to all who chipped in! Quality information as always!


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## Gksdudrms

@SGrabs33 A few photos... Will probably look to work the rust off the body and spray paint it down the road with the classic army green.


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## SGrabs33

@Gksdudrms Nice, I like her just the way she is


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## LoneStarHog

About to purchase this used California Trimmer. It's my first reel mower. Does anyone see anything I should be concerned about?


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## Cory

LoneStarHog said:


> About to purchase this used California Trimmer. It's my first reel mower. Does anyone see anything I should be concerned about?


Looks like it's new


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## SGrabs33

Cory said:


> LoneStarHog said:
> 
> 
> 
> About to purchase this used California Trimmer. It's my first reel mower. Does anyone see anything I should be concerned about?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like it's new
Click to expand...

Agreed. Can't be more than a few years old. Just make sure it operates, rear roller and reel spin, and you should be :thumbup:


----------



## LoneStarHog

Thanks @Cory and @SGrabs33.


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## wcampbell42

Over the past few weeks the reel, and drive wheel spin freely whether the clutch is engaged or not. Any idea of what is going on?


----------



## SGrabs33

wcampbell42 said:


> Over the past few weeks the reel, and drive wheel spin freely whether the clutch is engaged or not. Any idea of what is going on?


Clutch prob needs adjusting.

http://caltrimmer.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/RL20-25-Operators-Manual-4-2016.pdf


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## Bryan34w

Picked this old girl up a month back. Decided to start Reel mowing my front. Looks old but runs and cuts good. I'm thinking I'll tear it down and restore it this winter. Ordered a roller for it the other day and I just installed it. If it doesn't rain any more today I might be able to try it out tomorrow.


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## SGrabs33

@Bryan34w I love the look of the older models! Congrats on the new machine!


----------



## Bryan34w

SGrabs33 said:


> @Bryan34w I love the look of the older models! Congrats on the new machine!


Thanks. The motor kind of has a "Roll" in the sound of the motor but I think a carb rebuild would probably fix that. Not my first reel mower. Had a gardener for about the last 6 yrs but just recently fired him so I'm buy equipment again.


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## Cory

wcampbell42 said:


> Over the past few weeks the reel, and drive wheel spin freely whether the clutch is engaged or not. Any idea of what is going on?


Not enough contact between the reel and bedknife is my guess. I personally set mine to not have enough contact so the drive drum rolls easily without the clutch engaged but enough contact it still cuts paper. It's easier to maneuver the mower that way instead of lifting the drum every time you want to back up or whatever. If it's still cutting paper then it's all good.


----------



## Bermuda_Newbie

This is kind of a strange question but how freely should my reel roll when my mower is off? I was trying to see if my reel and bed knife we're adjusted to cut paper but it's fairly hard to move. Should it spin freely or should there be some resistance. I tried to find a video of someone spinning the reel with the mower off but I couldn't find one. I seem to remember it being looser when I got it back from getting sharpened last year but I could be remembering wrong. Can someone point me in the direction of a video or tell me their experience when there's is calibrated properly?

Edit: and I just read @Cory 's post above mine. So I guess I need to loosen my reel. Cool.


----------



## Cory

Bermuda_Newbie said:


> This is kind of a strange question but how freely should my reel roll when my mower is off? I was trying to see if my reel and bed knife we're adjusted to cut paper but it's fairly hard to move. Should it spin freely or should there be some resistance. I tried to find a video of someone spinning the reel with the mower off but I couldn't find one. I seem to remember it being looser when I got it back from getting sharpened last year but I could be remembering wrong. Can someone point me in the direction of a video or tell me their experience when there's is calibrated properly?
> 
> Edit: and I just read @Cory 's post above mine. So I guess I need to loosen my reel. Cool.


I keep explaining it but how about a video 



 :thumbup:

It still cuts paper and I'm barely pulling it or pushing it. I like it set this way because I don't have to lift the drive drum ever.


----------



## Bermuda_Newbie

Cory said:


> Bermuda_Newbie said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is kind of a strange question but how freely should my reel roll when my mower is off? I was trying to see if my reel and bed knife we're adjusted to cut paper but it's fairly hard to move. Should it spin freely or should there be some resistance. I tried to find a video of someone spinning the reel with the mower off but I couldn't find one. I seem to remember it being looser when I got it back from getting sharpened last year but I could be remembering wrong. Can someone point me in the direction of a video or tell me their experience when there's is calibrated properly?
> 
> Edit: and I just read @Cory 's post above mine. So I guess I need to loosen my reel. Cool.
> 
> 
> 
> I keep explaining it but how about a video
> 
> 
> 
> :thumbup:
> 
> It still cuts paper and I'm barely pulling it or pushing it. I like it set this way because I don't have to lift the drive drum ever.
Click to expand...

You're awesome! I was trying to move the blade with my foot and I had to practically step on it to get it to move. That didn't seem right to me. I finally figured out why it wasn't working on the hill. It wasn't the traction, the chain was messed up to the drive wheel so now it freely rolls when the drive wheel is up. It definitely doesn't spin though. I'll adjust it this evening when it is cooler. In the past, I've been lazy about the bed knife to reel situation but I think between the tightness and the sand from leveling, my blade is quite dull. Live and learn! At least it's on an old mower that was free. I would hate to be learning on a fancy one or one that I paid for. Thanks again!


----------



## Cory

@Bermuda_Newbie No problem!


----------



## mha2345

Hoping y'all might be able to help me. I want to take the lawn reel low and am considering a new Cal trimmer. My lawn is about 4500 sq. ft and would like to take it as low as possible but can't afford a greens mower honestly. It will be my first reel mower, and I'm wondering if it's a good purchase for me? From what I understand the lowest hoc is .25" on these? So I could maintain under 1"? Can anyone recommend which model to go with?


----------



## SGrabs33

mha2345 said:


> Hoping y'all might be able to help me. I want to take the lawn reel low and am considering a new Cal trimmer. My lawn is about 4500 sq. ft and would like to take it as low as possible but can't afford a greens mower honestly. It will be my first reel mower, and I'm wondering if it's a good purchase for me? From what I understand the lowest hoc is .25" on these? So I could maintain under 1"? Can anyone recommend which model to go with?


Happy to help.

The lowest cut on the 20" is 3/8"
The lowest cut on the 25" is 1/4"

The other choice would be Briggs or Honda engine. Both are good IMO but the Honda is considered "commercial" and comes with one extra year of warranty.

Front roller option is usually a must for owners.

Happy to answer any other questions you may have!


----------



## Cory

The rl207h I had couldn't go lower than 1/2" with the front roller installed. I'm not sure about the 25" model but the 20" definitely can't go to 1/4", the bedknife is too thick. But you can definitely maintain at 1" with any of them. I like the model I had with the hand clutch, I don't care for the lever engage clutch it's not as user friendly in tight spaces.


----------



## mha2345

@SGrabs33 it looks like there is a 20" that can go down to 1/4", https://www.mowersdirect.com/California-Trimmer-RL207H-GX120-Lawn-Mower/p62069.html

@Cory i'd like to eventually mantain around 5/8 or 3/4", think its doable?


----------



## Cory

@mha2345 That's the same model I had, definitely doesn't go down to 1/4" unless they know something I don't. But you can definitely maintain at 5/8" with it


----------



## SGrabs33

mha2345 said:


> SGrabs33 it looks like there is a 20" that can go down to 1/4", https://www.mowersdirect.com/California-Trimmer-RL207H-GX120-Lawn-Mower/p62069.html
> 
> @Cory i'd like to eventually mantain around 5/8 or 3/4", think its doable?


Must be a typo then. They say it's the RL207H. Here is the manual stating 3/8" as the low.

http://caltrimmer.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/RL20H-Operators-Manual-rev0717.pdf


----------



## mha2345

@SGrabs33 @Cory Must be a typo! I am glad I checked first and thank you for clarifying, looks great at 5/8! Any advantages I should consider other than going lower that the 25" has over the 20"? @Cory y any particular reason why you switched to a greens mower, would you still recommend a Cal trimmer?


----------



## Bermuda_Newbie

@SGrabs33 why does it say in the manual that position #8 is not possible in the current configuration? I've used the very last position on my grass. Perhaps I'm reading the document wrong and position #8 is not the last hole?


----------



## Cory

@mha2345 I wanted a greens mower for a while. @SGrabs33 had one so we traded. The only thing I didn't like about the California Trimmer was the tire tracks it left, if the made it with a solid drive drum it would be the perfect mower for me.

Honestly though, knowing what I know now after using the greens mower for a couple months I would rather have the California Trimmer. It worked better for me with my ditch because it's easier to operate. Also because my backyard is common Bermuda I can't mow it as low as the front. It's a pain to change the HOC on the greens mower every time you mow so I'm not even gonna bother reel mowing the backyard anymore.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

My California Trimmer is only a couple of months old and is running great.

The past 2 or 3 mows....about 2 or 3 times during mowing I will hear the sound of a "clink" coming from the Reel.

It sounds similar to "if you were to take hammer and tap a metal pole".

Everything runs fine after or before this...its just I can't figure out were or why it's doing this?

Any ideas?

Thanks


----------



## SGrabs33

ENC_Lawn said:


> My California Trimmer is only a couple of months old and is running great.
> 
> The past 2 or 3 mows....about 2 or 3 times during mowing I will hear the sound of a "clink" coming from the Reel.
> 
> It sounds similar to "if you were to take hammer and tap a metal pole".
> 
> Everything runs fine after or before this...its just I can't figure out were or why it's doing this?
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks


I can't think of anything mechanically that would be doing it.

Any chance there are some small stones in your yard? Does it happen in the same area of your lawn every time?


----------



## spud

Mine will sometimes make a noise as the chain on the right side hits the chain cover. If you have newer mower it might have tensioner you could check.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

SGrabs33 said:


> ENC_Lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> My California Trimmer is only a couple of months old and is running great.
> 
> The past 2 or 3 mows....about 2 or 3 times during mowing I will hear the sound of a "clink" coming from the Reel.
> 
> It sounds similar to "if you were to take hammer and tap a metal pole".
> 
> Everything runs fine after or before this...its just I can't figure out were or why it's doing this?
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> I can't think of anything mechanically that would be doing it.
> 
> Any chance there are some small stones in your yard? Does it happen in the same area of your lawn every time?
Click to expand...

It doesn't happen in the same area each time...however I could see where hitting a stone would make that noise...however I never see any rocks or stones kicked up?


----------



## ENC_Lawn

spud said:


> Mine will sometimes make a noise as the chain on the right side hits the chain cover. If you have newer mower it might have tensioner you could check.


I will check the chain cover next time....this happens.

Thanks!


----------



## WillyT

Is there any idea what the HOC is with the roller attachment? I have seen the chart(put below) but that is with the wheel attachment. I have a 20 inch Classic and love it. The roller attachment is on the middle slot and I have been mowing on the 5th from the highest setting which looks more like 5/8 than 3/4. The lowest setting(8th hole) wont even roll for me on the concrete and doubt I could go lower than one more setting in my yard and its been leveled pretty decently.

Cutting Heights**
Handle
Position
Caster Axle
Position
Bottom Middle
#1 1-7/8" 1-3/8"
#2 1-3/4" 1-1/4"
#3 1-5/8" 1-1/8"
#4 1-1/2" 1"
#5 1-1/4" 3/4"
#6 1" 5/8"
#7 7/8" 3/8"


----------



## wareseeker

I have a kit to sharp this machine. I would sell to anyone who need it. I used to have a Cal trimmer.


----------



## Cory

WillyT said:


> Is there any idea what the HOC is with the roller attachment? I have seen the chart(put below) but that is with the wheel attachment. I have a 20 inch Classic and love it. The roller attachment is on the middle slot and I have been mowing on the 5th from the highest setting which looks more like 5/8 than 3/4. The lowest setting(8th hole) wont even roll for me on the concrete and doubt I could go lower than one more setting in my yard and its been leveled pretty decently.
> 
> Cutting Heights**
> Handle
> Position
> Caster Axle
> Position
> Bottom Middle
> #1 1-7/8" 1-3/8"
> #2 1-3/4" 1-1/4"
> #3 1-5/8" 1-1/8"
> #4 1-1/2" 1"
> #5 1-1/4" 3/4"
> #6 1" 5/8"
> #7 7/8" 3/8"


I had my roller installed in the top hole, measurements were roughly 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", and 7/8". If I remember correctly #7 wasn't usable because the bedknife drags, and #1 & 2weren't usable because the chain was too short. If you have floor jack or jack stands you can lean the mower forward and rest on the gas tank then use a straight edge to span the roller and wheels to get exact measurements


----------



## twolf

I have bought mine this winter, so it is pretty new. It came with the front roller.
Last time I was greasing whatever needs to be greased, I noticed that the roller squeaks when rolled by hand. You know that same sound a door hinge would make when asking for a bit of lube.
There are no zerks, and it looks like it has bearings sealed with rubber or plastic. I sprayed both sides with my chain spray, and the sound is gone. But I am thinking if I should disassemble the roller and put some grease inside.
Any thoughts?


----------



## WillyT

Cory said:


> WillyT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any idea what the HOC is with the roller attachment? I have seen the chart(put below) but that is with the wheel attachment. I have a 20 inch Classic and love it. The roller attachment is on the middle slot and I have been mowing on the 5th from the highest setting which looks more like 5/8 than 3/4. The lowest setting(8th hole) wont even roll for me on the concrete and doubt I could go lower than one more setting in my yard and its been leveled pretty decently.
> 
> Cutting Heights**
> Handle
> Position
> Caster Axle
> Position
> Bottom Middle
> #1 1-7/8" 1-3/8"
> #2 1-3/4" 1-1/4"
> #3 1-5/8" 1-1/8"
> #4 1-1/2" 1"
> #5 1-1/4" 3/4"
> #6 1" 5/8"
> #7 7/8" 3/8"
> 
> 
> 
> I had my roller installed in the top hole, measurements were roughly 1/2", 5/8", 3/4", and 7/8". If I remember correctly #7 wasn't usable because the bedknife drags, and #1 & 2weren't usable because the chain was too short. If you have floor jack or jack stands you can lean the mower forward and rest on the gas tank then use a straight edge to span the roller and wheels to get exact measurements
Click to expand...

10-4 Thanks for the tip. Will try that and see where it lands.


----------



## WillyT

This is what I measured with the roller attachment.

Middle slot
1 - 1 1/4 inch
2- 1 1/8 inch
3- 1 inch 
4- 3/4 inch 
5- 5/8 inch 
6- 1/2 inch 
7- 3/8 inch 
8- n/a


----------



## Stuofsci02

Hey guys/gals,

Thinking of pulling the trigger on a Cal Trimmer with Honda motor and Roller.. Since I will need to order and drive to the US to pick up this is a little bigger purchase than most... It seems like most are happy with these units for "hobby level" short cut lawns and then some eventually go all out greens mowers.. What are peoples experiences using these in the 1-1.25" range on KBG/PRG?


----------



## WillyT

Stuofsci02 said:


> Hey guys/gals,
> 
> Thinking of pulling the trigger on a Cal Trimmer with Honda motor and Roller.. Since I will need to order and drive to the US to pick up this is a little bigger purchase than most... It seems like most are happy with these units for "hobby level" short cut lawns and then some eventually go all out greens mowers.. What are peoples experiences using these in the 1-1.25" range on KBG/PRG?


I cant say much on the KBG/PRG but it cuts well at that height on my Bermuda when I first got the mower (I cut at 5/8 inch now). I went with the same set up you are describing in the classic version. The classic has a throttle that acts as a clutch, it is great for starting/slowing down/going around objects. The commercial does not have this function and that is typically why cal trimmer has a bad wrap. I purchased mine from home depot and got it delivered to the store with the roller installed from cal trimmer. This could be a good option for you. I have been very happy with the mower and glad I got the roller and Honda upgrades.


----------



## Stuofsci02

Thanks Willy,

I appreciate your input and advice.

Cheers,

Stu


----------



## WillyT

Anyone have experience adjusting the clutch cable? Why you adjusted it and if it helped. I purchased my new cal trimmer at the beginning of the summer and the clutch is feeling different. Hard to explain but when the trigger starts to engage the mower hesitates and seems to be making more noise and vibration when starting or stopping the mower. I backlapped my reel last night and determined it has nothing to do with the reel as the chain was off that engages the reel but the noise and minor vibration is still there. When engaging the handle it feels like more resistance than before as well. I am thinking of adjusting the cable and checking the clutch tonight to see if that is the issue.


----------



## SGrabs33

WillyT said:


> Anyone have experience adjusting the clutch cable? Why you adjusted it and if it helped. I purchased my new cal trimmer at the beginning of the summer and the clutch is feeling different. Hard to explain but when the trigger starts to engage the mower hesitates and seems to be making more noise and vibration when starting or stopping the mower. I backlapped my reel last night and determined it has nothing to do with the reel as the chain was off that engages the reel but the noise and minor vibration is still there. When engaging the handle it feels like more resistance than before as well. I am thinking of adjusting the cable and checking the clutch tonight to see if that is the issue.


Take the belt cover off to see if it is coming from that area. Sometimes the belt can make some noise when stopping and starting based on the tightness of the clutch.


----------



## WillyT

Thanks, the belt was not being stopped quick enough so the metal bar was causing noise and vibration. Adjusted it and eliminated the noise and vibration. Thanks again



SGrabs33 said:


> WillyT said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have experience adjusting the clutch cable? Why you adjusted it and if it helped. I purchased my new cal trimmer at the beginning of the summer and the clutch is feeling different. Hard to explain but when the trigger starts to engage the mower hesitates and seems to be making more noise and vibration when starting or stopping the mower. I backlapped my reel last night and determined it has nothing to do with the reel as the chain was off that engages the reel but the noise and minor vibration is still there. When engaging the handle it feels like more resistance than before as well. I am thinking of adjusting the cable and checking the clutch tonight to see if that is the issue.
> 
> 
> 
> Take the belt cover off to see if it is coming from that area. Sometimes the belt can make some noise when stopping and starting based on the tightness of the clutch.
Click to expand...


----------



## SGrabs33

@WillyT glad it was an easy fix!


----------



## Mrdi2003++

Does the big nut (on the port/left side facing forward) on the roller
restrict getting close to a curb that is higher than the grass?


----------



## SGrabs33

Mrdi2003++ said:


> Does the big nut (on the port/left side facing forward) on the roller
> restrict getting close to a curb that is higher than the grass?


It shouldn't restrict you much. Though, I would recommend that you bring up that grass height to be @ or just slightly above the curb. That way you can just hang the roller over.


----------



## spud

So I did this this week...

Changed out the rear drive roller.

Put on my Reel Rollers grooved roller.

Made a turnbuckle adjuster for HOC. Works great. Micro adjusting SOOO easy now. I'm thinking I might turn it 1 or 2 turns higher every week after spring scalp. We'll see.

Then I put some McLane style fins on the grass chute to even out the distribution of grass in the grass catcher. Grass kept piling up on left side affecting HOC and how often I have to dump grass catcher. Haven't tested that yet.

Don't make fun of my welds... It was my first project with my new MIG welder (merry xmas to me).


----------



## Greendoc

Nice work. How low do you want to go with your Emerald Zoysia? Not laughing at your welds at all. Mine look the same or worse with a lunchbox stick welder.


----------



## spud

i usually scalp just below 1/2 inch and keep it 5/8 to 3/4 the rest of the year.

That might change this year with the grooved roller???


----------



## spud

I'd like to scalp lower but I get into the "black stuff" and it takes a LONG time to recover.


----------



## Chocolate Lab

I was surprised with a brand new Cal Trimmer for Christmas. Didn't expect that and I personally wouldn't ever spend that much, but they were readily available through Home Depot, and I think my dad had good memories of his dad, who had an amazing, award-winning lawn and is my inspiration for all this.

I never paid much attention to CTs, because the used models I see around here are all McLanes and Tru-Cuts, so I have some reading to do.

One thing I didn't expect was how compact it is. I love that. It's like a chunk of granite, and actually takes up less space than my old rotary. Really, I almost hate to start and use it!


----------



## Teej

Chocolate Lab said:


> I was surprised with a brand new Cal Trimmer for Christmas. Didn't expect that and I personally wouldn't ever spend that much, but they were readily available through Home Depot, and I think my dad had good memories of his dad, who had an amazing, award-winning lawn and is my inspiration for all this.
> 
> I never paid much attention to CTs, because the used models I see around here are all McLanes and Tru-Cuts, so I have some reading to do.
> 
> One thing I didn't expect was how compact it is. I love that. It's like a chunk of granite, and actually takes up less space than my old rotary. Really, I almost hate to start and use it!


I'm glad to hear you are diggin' the CT. I'm currently looking at picking one of these up. The form factor is a plus since I don't have a ton of room for storage.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Chocolate Lab what a great surprise! You will love it even more once you start using it. Happy to help answer any questions you have.


----------



## XLT_66

I've got a pretty old Cal Trimmer Homeowners Model that I keep around for scalping duty, etc.

I need to replace the reel drive chain. Anyone happen to know what size chain this is? Thanks!


----------



## SGrabs33

XLT_66 said:


> I've got a pretty old Cal Trimmer Homeowners Model that I keep around for scalping duty, etc.
> 
> I need to replace the reel drive chain. Anyone happen to know what size chain this is? Thanks!


I haven't dealt with many of the older(1968-2003) models myself. Online they have it listed as "CHAIN, REEL, OLD HO, 41x46". I believe that is 46" of #41 chain.

Parts Manual


----------



## XLT_66

Thanks, I'll take some measurements to confirm a #41 chain.


----------



## Spammage

XLT_66 said:


> Thanks, I'll take some measurements to confirm a #41 chain.


I'm relatively sure it is #41 too.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

I'm gonna back lap my California Trimmer for the first time here soon.

What compound grit should I purchase?

I see 80 grit as well as 120 grit.

I have never back laped before...but recently purchased the back laping tool.


----------



## SGrabs33

ENC_Lawn said:


> I'm gonna back lap my California Trimmer for the first time here soon.
> 
> What compound grit should I purchase?
> 
> I see 80 grit as well as 120 grit.
> 
> I have never back laped before...but recently purchased the back laping tool.


Nice, it should be easy with the adjustment posts @ the top of the mower!

Here is a thread on the different compounds people use.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

SGrabs33 said:


> ENC_Lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna back lap my California Trimmer for the first time here soon.
> 
> What compound grit should I purchase?
> 
> I see 80 grit as well as 120 grit.
> 
> I have never back laped before...but recently purchased the back laping tool.
> 
> 
> 
> Nice, it should be easy with the adjustment posts @ the top of the mower!
> 
> Here is a thread on the different compounds people use.
Click to expand...

Thanks!!! :thumbup:


----------



## ENC_Lawn

@SGrabs33 I noticed earlier in this thread California Trimmer had what looked like a rear roller prototype at one time.

Any suggestions on how to get the Cal Trimmer to strip Bermuda better like a Greensmower or Swardsman?

Thanks


----------



## SGrabs33

@ENC_Lawn yes, it was a prototype that never went into any type of production.

It's going to be hard to emulate what a full rear roller can do as far as striping. I have found that the Trimmer has striped my lawn best when the grass was @ 3/4" to 1". That way there was enough grass there to push over and create the striping affect.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

SGrabs33 said:


> @ENC_Lawn yes, it was a prototype that never went into any type of production.
> 
> It's going to be hard to emulate what a full rear roller can do as far as striping. I have found that the Trimmer has striped my lawn best when the grass was @ 3/4" to 1". That way there was enough grass there to push over and create the striping affect.


 :thumbup:


----------



## Reelrollers

SGrabs33 said:


> @ENC_Lawn yes, it was a prototype that never went into any type of production.
> 
> It's going to be hard to emulate what a full rear roller can do as far as striping. I have found that the Trimmer has striped my lawn best when the grass was @ 3/4" to 1". That way there was enough grass there to push over and create the striping affect.


I have one of the prototypes which were made by Trimmer. The idea was good, but due to the rear center wheel drive being set so far back, you constantly stepped on/ kicked the rear roller.

Another tip for more defined stripes is to mow East to West vs North to South. The sun will hit the grass better and stripes pop more.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

@Reelrollers Thanks for the tip!

I will try the East to West mow for better stripping!

@SGrabs33 I scalped my yard this past Saturday. Scalped down to the dirt as low as I could go.

I stopped once to take a break and when I went back to cutting the lawn the Cal Trimmer blades were stuck not wanting to turn in the forward position.

I could turn them rearward and eventually turned them enough rearward that I could give the trimmer full power and with enough momentum they blades became unstuck and started back working fine.

I am guessing this was the metal expanding and stopping the blades due to the lawn not being wet and the grass being dormant there was not moisture in the grass blades to lubricate the mower enough to stay "cool"...therefor the extra friction caused excess heat and swelling causes the blades to get stuck....or am I way off on my estimation?


----------



## SGrabs33

@ENC_Lawn yes, that could be part of it. More likely just too much leaf tissue getting stuck and wedged between the REEL and bedknife. You can try taking a little more off at a time and that may help.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

SGrabs33 said:


> @ENC_Lawn yes, that could be part of it. More likely just too much leaf tissue getting stuck and wedged between the REEL and bedknife. You can try taking a little more off at a time and that may help.


 :thumbup:


----------



## ZCraig-Trimmer

I just did a retro-fit on my Calif. Trimmer mower from high school - circa 1970. Yeah.... 50 years old. My Dad said my brother-in-law had it in his garage and wasn't using it. So I rescued it. It's a 20" homeowner model that my Dad bought to cut our Tif-dwarf lawn that was sown in 1969. It replaced the push mower that was my nemesis. I unintentionally killed the push mower.... but that's another story. So Dad needed to get a reel mower. Tustin Mower said we should get a Trimmer to properly cut the Tif-Dwarf. And Dad did. Boy was I happy to be done with the push mower.

In the past month I've had a local Trimmer dealer give the thing a full tune-up, sharpening, new bearings etc. I also put on a grooved Reel Roller. However, this old machine didn't have the multi-position height adjustment on newer Trimmer models. The lever arm on the Reel Roller assembly had nothing to connect to for setting height. So I contacted Evergreen and ordered the adjustment bracket, arm and connecting rod assembly from the Trimmer parts list. And guess what? It all fits. An ancient machine retro-fitted with a much later height adjuster and a brand new Reel Roller. Pretty slick. Further proof that good design & engineering doesn't have to change.

Now to see how it does on my new sod lawn - with Tif-Green overseeded with rye.

Cleaned & sharpened.


Full Retro-fit


----------



## SGrabs33

Very cool @ZCraig-Trimmer. I have always loved the look of the older Trimmers and its great that you were able to get some new parts, that fit, to add functionality. The guys over @ Evergreen are great and super helpful.

Welcome to the forum!


----------



## ENC_Lawn

Just curious if anyone know's why the California Trimmer is not able to go but so low before the bed knife hits the dirt.

How do Greens mowers and other reel mowers manage to get to lower HOC without the bed knife hitting the dirt?


----------



## SGrabs33

Probably just because of a thicker bedknife. The low on the trimmer is listed as 3/8".

Greens mowers are made to go super low. The trimmer and other standard homeowner REELs(McLane, trucut) are not.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

SGrabs33 said:


> Probably just because of a thicker bedknife. The low on the trimmer is listed as 3/8".
> 
> Greens mowers are made to go super low. The trimmer and other standard homeowner REELs(McLane, trucut) are not.


Gotcha...thanks for the help!!! :thumbup:


----------



## ENC_Lawn

Back lapped my California Trimmer today for a good bit.

I used right much 120 grit paste and ran the reel for a while.

I did not adjust the the bed knife at all....

Should I have adjusted the bed knife. I have only had it for 1 lawn season?

Anyway after back lapping the reel several times and putting the chain back on the reel...I did the paper test and the reel was not cutting the paper.

Any idea...what I did wrong?


----------



## SGrabs33

ENC_Lawn said:


> Back lapped my California Trimmer today for a good bit.
> 
> I used right much 120 grit paste and ran the reel for a while.
> 
> I did not adjust the the bed knife at all....
> 
> Should I have adjusted the bed knife. I have only had it for 1 lawn season?
> 
> Anyway after back lapping the reel several times and putting the chain back on the reel...I did the paper test and the reel was not cutting the paper.
> 
> Any idea...what I did wrong?


You probably want to adjust the reel to bedknife so it's making contact before you backlap. Enough contact where you can hear it but still can turn the reel fairly easily with a finger or two. Then after doing some light backlapping you test it with the paper test. If it's not cutting paper then you can adjust the reel to bedknife slightly again to see if it will cut paper.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

SGrabs33 said:


> ENC_Lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Back lapped my California Trimmer today for a good bit.
> 
> I used right much 120 grit paste and ran the reel for a while.
> 
> I did not adjust the the bed knife at all....
> 
> Should I have adjusted the bed knife. I have only had it for 1 lawn season?
> 
> Anyway after back lapping the reel several times and putting the chain back on the reel...I did the paper test and the reel was not cutting the paper.
> 
> Any idea...what I did wrong?
> 
> 
> 
> You probably want to adjust the reel to bedknife so it's making contact before you backlap. Enough contact where you can hear it but still can turn the reel fairly easily with a finger or two. Then after doing some light backlapping you test it with the paper test. If it's not cutting paper then you can adjust the reel to bedknife slightly again to see if it will cut paper.
Click to expand...

Ok...I did the above steps backwards.

I backlapped first then I just adjust the reel to bedknife today.

Currently the reel has been backlapped and now the bedknife and reel are making contact.

So it sounds like I need to do another paper test and if it doesn't cut paper...just backap until it does and I should not have to adjust the bedknife again.

Am I correct?

Thanks for the help!!! :thumbup:


----------



## SGrabs33

@ENC_Lawn You definitely want to make sure you have even contact on both sides of the bedknife before backlapping or you could be backlapping off more on one side than the other. It's possible that you don't have to adjust the reel/bedknife after backlapping in order to cut paper but you may need to just a little bit. Possibly 1/8-1/4 turns until light contacts is obtained again.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

SGrabs33 said:


> @ENC_Lawn You definitely want to make sure you have even contact on both sides of the bedknife before backlapping or you could be backlapping off more on one side than the other. It's possible that you don't have to adjust the reel/bedknife after backlapping in order to cut paper but you may need to just a little bit. Possibly 1/8-1/4 turns until light contacts is obtained again.


Gotcha....thanks again for the guidance and help!!! :thumbup:


----------



## Bulldog

Thinking of picking up my first reel mower, a new California trimmer my Bermuda grass. Would you guys recommend the smooth or grooved roller for it? From my understanding the groove roller is better than a smooth but I read somewhere that the groove roller causes the lawn to get torn up when repositioning the mower. What are your thoughts? Thanks


----------



## Josh

Quick question about my RL207H. Has anyone shortened the chain for the drive wheel? I constantly find myself dragging it when its in the up position.


----------



## SGrabs33

Josh said:


> Quick question about my RL207H. Has anyone shortened the chain for the drive wheel? I constantly find myself dragging it when its in the up position.


Yep, but it's easiest to put a bolt through it with a lock nut on the end. That way you can take it out if you need to.


----------



## Josh

SGrabs33 said:


> Josh said:
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question about my RL207H. Has anyone shortened the chain for the drive wheel? I constantly find myself dragging it when its in the up position.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, but it's easiest to put a bolt through it with a lock nut on the end. That way you can take it out if you need to.
Click to expand...

Perfect! Thanks!


----------



## Murfandturf

quick question for anyone that added a front roller to their cali.... did you install on the middle or top holes? And do we know the respective cutting heights for both? Assuming it has to be lower with the roller installed on the top hole since it would be offering less ground clearance.

Also-really dumb question but just wanted to verify. When you are moving the handle for cutting height- do you read the positions as 1 being closest to your feet or 1 being closest to the front roller? Thanks!


----------



## SGrabs33

Murfandturf said:


> quick question for anyone that added a front roller to their cali.... did you install on the middle or top holes? And do we know the respective cutting heights for both? Assuming it has to be lower with the roller installed on the top hole since it would be offering less ground clearance.
> 
> Also-really dumb question but just wanted to verify. When you are moving the handle for cutting height- do you read the positions as 1 being closest to your feet or 1 being closest to the front roller? Thanks!


I think this info from the manual should answer all your questions :thumbup: let me know if you need anymore clarification.


----------



## Murfandturf

SGrabs33 said:


> Murfandturf said:
> 
> 
> 
> quick question for anyone that added a front roller to their cali.... did you install on the middle or top holes? And do we know the respective cutting heights for both? Assuming it has to be lower with the roller installed on the top hole since it would be offering less ground clearance.
> 
> Also-really dumb question but just wanted to verify. When you are moving the handle for cutting height- do you read the positions as 1 being closest to your feet or 1 being closest to the front roller? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> I think this info from the manual should answer all your questions :thumbup: let me know if you need anymore clarification.
Click to expand...

Thanks-Ive referenced this chart. Just seems like with the roller it cuts lower than those settings. Maybe I'm just getting use to what a legit reel mower cutting height is haha


----------



## SGrabs33

Murfandturf said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Murfandturf said:
> 
> 
> 
> quick question for anyone that added a front roller to their cali.... did you install on the middle or top holes? And do we know the respective cutting heights for both? Assuming it has to be lower with the roller installed on the top hole since it would be offering less ground clearance.
> 
> Also-really dumb question but just wanted to verify. When you are moving the handle for cutting height- do you read the positions as 1 being closest to your feet or 1 being closest to the front roller? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> I think this info from the manual should answer all your questions :thumbup: let me know if you need anymore clarification.
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks-Ive referenced this chart. Just seems like with the roller it cuts lower than those settings. Maybe I'm just getting use to what a legit reel mower cutting height is haha
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm sure there is some wiggle room based on those numbers depending on how tight different bolts are. Has to be pretty close though.


----------



## Cory

SGrabs33 said:


> Murfandturf said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I think this info from the manual should answer all your questions :thumbup: let me know if you need anymore clarification.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks-Ive referenced this chart. Just seems like with the roller it cuts lower than those settings. Maybe I'm just getting use to what a legit reel mower cutting height is haha
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yeah, I'm sure there is some wiggle room based on those numbers depending on how tight different bolts are. Has to be pretty close though.
Click to expand...

That chart is way off with the roller, it only applies to the casters. I installed my roller 
In the top holes, the lowest it would go was 1/2", and each notch raised 1/8" if I remember correctly.


----------



## Josh

Cory said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Murfandturf said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks-Ive referenced this chart. Just seems like with the roller it cuts lower than those settings. Maybe I'm just getting use to what a legit reel mower cutting height is haha
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'm sure there is some wiggle room based on those numbers depending on how tight different bolts are. Has to be pretty close though.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That chart is way off with the roller, it only applies to the casters. I installed my roller
> In the top holes, the lowest it would go was 1/2", and each notch raised 1/8" if I remember correctly.
Click to expand...

Cory is right. I've got my bolts in the "middle" and the lowest I can get is 1/2" which is the 3rd setting. Settings 1 and 2 drag frame with the roller.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

Second back lap attempt.

I tightened the reel to bed knife.

Used right much 120 grit. And *********** for the 2nd time in a row and still not cutting paper?

Any suggestions?


----------



## SGrabs33

@ENC_Lawn Im not too sure what could be going on. It's a fairly new machine, right? Usually the newer machines only need a light backlapping to get back to cutting paper? Is it just folding over the paper when you try? Will it cut a index or business card?

I remember you said it was making a clicking noise last year. Did you ever figure out what that was?


----------



## ENC_Lawn

SGrabs33 said:


> @ENC_Lawn Im not too sure what could be going on. It's a fairly new machine, right? Usually the newer machines only need a light backlapping to get back to cutting paper? Is it just folding over the paper when you try? Will it cut a index or business card?
> 
> I remember you said it was making a clicking noise last year. Did you ever figure out what that was?


Correct its a brand new machine purchased last year....the clicking "noise" I think was small rocks hitting the reel / bedknife but I can't be for sure.

I have had zero problems with it...and after scalping this year...(I scalped down as low as I could hitting dirt sometimes)....I decided to backlapp.

I am using printer paper to test the cut.

I spin the real with the chain off and the paper snags up or just gets bent over.

From what i understand because my reel is fairly new I shouldn't even have to adjust the bedknife to reel...correct?

Roughly how long does a backlapp take?

Should I be running my drill and 120 grit for 5 mins, 10 mins...etc?

Thanks


----------



## SGrabs33

ENC_Lawn said:


> Correct its a brand new machine purchased last year....the clicking "noise" I think was small rocks hitting the reel / bedknife but I can't be for sure.
> 
> I have had zero problems with it...and after scalping this year...(I scalped down as low as I could hitting dirt sometimes)....I decided to backlapp.
> 
> I am using printer paper to test the cut.
> 
> I spin the real with the chain off and the paper snags up or just gets bent over.
> 
> From what i understand because my reel is fairly new I shouldn't even have to adjust the bedknife to reel...correct?
> 
> Roughly how long does a backlapp take?
> 
> Should I be running my drill and 120 grit for 5 mins, 10 mins...etc?
> 
> Thanks


When backlapping you are spinning the REEL backwards, right? Just making sure.

Untrue, no matter how old your reel is it is always possible that you will need to adjust the reel to bedknife. Especially if it's hitting things other than grass in your lawn like small stones.

Backlapping should not take 5 or 10 minutes usually. After you apply the paste when the REEL is spinning you should be able to hear the grinding noise lessen the longer you spin the REEL. Eventually you won't hear much noise besides the sound of the drill. After that wash the compound off, dry the REEL some, and give the paper test a try. If it's not cutting then try adjusting the reel to bedknife a little tighter.

Are you anywhere near Raleigh. If so you can always bring it by and I can give it a look.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

SGrabs33 said:


> ENC_Lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Correct its a brand new machine purchased last year....the clicking "noise" I think was small rocks hitting the reel / bedknife but I can't be for sure.
> 
> I have had zero problems with it...and after scalping this year...(I scalped down as low as I could hitting dirt sometimes)....I decided to backlapp.
> 
> I am using printer paper to test the cut.
> 
> I spin the real with the chain off and the paper snags up or just gets bent over.
> 
> From what i understand because my reel is fairly new I shouldn't even have to adjust the bedknife to reel...correct?
> 
> Roughly how long does a backlapp take?
> 
> Should I be running my drill and 120 grit for 5 mins, 10 mins...etc?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> When backlapping you are spinning the REEL backwards, right? Just making sure.
> 
> Untrue, no matter how old your reel is it is always possible that you will need to adjust the reel to bedknife. Especially if it's hitting things other than grass in your lawn like small stones.
> 
> Backlapping should not take 5 or 10 minutes usually. After you apply the paste when the REEL is spinning you should be able to hear the grinding noise lessen the longer you spin the REEL. Eventually you won't hear much noise besides the sound of the drill. After that wash the compound off, dry the REEL some, and give the paper test a try. If it's not cutting then try adjusting the reel to bedknife a little tighter.
> 
> Are you anywhere near Raleigh. If so you can always bring it by and I can give it a look.
Click to expand...

Yes...I am spinning the reel backwards until the paste no longer makes the grinding sound.

I adjusted the reel to bed knife by turning the knobs on each side of the mower....until it started scraping a little.

That is the correct way to adjust...correct?

I am about and 1 hour and 15 minutes from Raleigh...so I may just take you up on that offer...if I can't figure this things out.

I gotten so frustrated...I just considered selling it...but I am not throwing in the towel yet 

Thank you for your help!


----------



## SGrabs33

@ENC_Lawn just let me know when you want to bring it by!


----------



## ENC_Lawn

SGrabs33 said:


> @ENC_Lawn just let me know when you want to bring it by!


 :thumbup:


----------



## twolf

Interesting how it works. I have just had all the same 2 questions mentioned in few last posts here.

1) The manual height chart is way off for the factory roller. It seems last year my mow height of 1"" (#4 from the manual) was actually 3/4". I have found it 3 days ago when I was scalping the lawn and nothing was making sense until I measured HOC with a ruler. So, thanks for confirming it.
2) Re. Backlapping. It was first backlapping for my mower. All the same I could not make any progress, until I cleaned all paste with water, and started again with a fresh paste. I had to repeat this 3 times. Initially it had too tight contact on both sides and almost no contact in the middle. So, as my reel was getting lighter to rotate, I was tightening it further. It now rotates very well with light contact and cuts along full length of the back blade. It feels better than when it just came new. I believe they did over-tighten it to compensate for this center cutting problem. In short, wash off paste and repeat - you will get it.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

twolf said:


> Interesting how it works. I have just had all the same 2 questions mentioned in few last posts here.
> 
> 1) The manual height chart is way off for the factory roller. It seems last year my mow height of 1"" (#4 from the manual) was actually 3/4". I have found it 3 days ago when I was scalping the lawn and nothing was making sense until I measured HOC with a ruler. So, thanks for confirming it.
> 2) Re. Backlapping. It was first backlapping for my mower. All the same I could not make any progress, until I cleaned all paste with water, and started again with a fresh paste. I had to repeat this 3 times. Initially it had too tight contact on both sides and almost no contact in the middle. So, as my reel was getting lighter to rotate, I was tightening it further. It now rotates very well with light contact and cuts along full length of the back blade. It feels better than when it just came new. I believe they did over-tighten it to compensate for this center cutting problem. In short, wash off paste and repeat - you will get it.


Thank you....

This is a really dumb rookie question but is there any easier way to get the chain off then the way I am doing it.

I basically take a screw driver and keep working the link connector until it "pops" off...which seems like I am going into eventually damage my chain...not to mention I get grease everywhere.


----------



## SGrabs33

@ENC_Lawn wedge the screwdriver into the angle created on the bottom side of the clip. Then rotate your screwdriver clockwise to pop it off. Have a hand over it so it doesn't go flying.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

@SGrabs33 You are the man!

Thanks for info!!! :thumbup:


----------



## LBK_419

SGrabs33 said:


> @ENC_Lawn wedge the screwdriver into the angle created on the bottom side of the clip. Then rotate your screwdriver clockwise to pop it off. Have a hand over it so it doesn't go flying.


Ok... I feel dumb now! Every time I take one of these off I feel like I'm solving a rubix cube... thanks for the info..


----------



## Zimmerman

Hey guys,

I just bought a new 20 inch trimmer with the Honda engine. Followed all the initial start up instructions, but it won't stay running. I've played with the fuel switch lever and it helps some to leave it in the middle but it still has the same problem. Seems to turn off when the tank is on the downhill side (not a steep slope at all). Any advice?


----------



## SGrabs33

Zimmerman said:
 

> Hey guys,
> 
> I just bought a new 20 inch trimmer with the Honda engine. Followed all the initial start up instructions, but it won't stay running. I've played with the fuel switch lever and it helps some to leave it in the middle but it still has the same problem. Seems to turn off when the tank is on the downhill side (not a steep slope at all). Any advice?


Easy fix. There is a low oil shut off on the honda. When your on the hill it gets triggered. Fill up the oil reservoir a little more and see if that helps.


----------



## Zimmerman

Thank you @SGrabs33 I'll do this tomorrow


----------



## ENC_Lawn

Back lapped for the third time in a row today.

Made sure the reell to bed knife wasn't over tightened.

Ran ************ for a good 5 minutes in reverse.

Used 120 grit several times and let the reel backlapp until the sound of the grit was gone.

Washed reel. Clean the grit off very good and still can't get it to cut paper.

Now given I never did the paper test when I purchased it brand new...I just assumed new reel would cut paper...but none the less I have never tried the paper test until now.

I have tried everything at this point and don't have a clue why I can't get it to cut paper.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?


----------



## SGrabs33

@ENC_Lawn share some pics of the reel and bedknife. Maybe something is off.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

SGrabs33 said:


> @ENC_Lawn share some pics of the reel and bedknife. Maybe something is off.


Will do...I am going to try to get back under my garage today and work on it some more and I will take some pictures.

I was watching the California Trimmer Backlapp video "again" last night...and I am going to make sure I wipe down the reel today with a cloth vs spraying it down with the water hose.

Also I checked and make sure my 120 Grit compound paste was water based and not oil based...and it is.

I noticed in the California Trimmer video. They appear to tighten the reel to bedknife "right much"...I will give that a try today.

Seriously @SGrabs33 .....thank you for the help!  :thumbup:


----------



## Cory

@ENC_Lawn you have to adjust the bedknife after backlapping. Backlapping removes metal from the reel and bedknife so you have to adjust them closer until the reel is cutting paper again. Also the reel and bedknife need to be dry before trying to cut paper, any moisture makes paper weaker.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

Update.

Ok so I just finished backlapping again.

The good news is we are cutting paper.

I adjusted the bedknife to where there was a good grind to it against the reel.

I then added backlapping compound and backlapped a good 5 or more minutes.

Washed all of the compound off and let it air dry.

Then did the paper test and it cutting paper!!!

@Cory Thanks for the advice on the mower being 100% dry....that may have contributed to some of it before but I hadn't thought of that...so thanks again!

Also a big thank you to @SGrabs33 ....for all the help!

Ok...so with the reel being sharp and cutting paper...I head out to the lawn for quick cut.

Everything cutting and going great and THEN on the 3rd or 4th pass the reel stops turning and a broken chain is laying on the lawn?

So apparently the chain that turns the reel has broken off?

Is this easily fixable or is this a "carry it to a service shop type of thing".


----------



## nickmg

Easy,

Just bring your old chain to a hardware store and they will make a new one, pick up a new master link to put it all together.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

nickmg said:


> Easy,
> 
> Just bring your old chain to a hardware store and they will make a new one, pick up a new master link to put it all together.


Gotcha!

Thanks :thumbup:

Yeah...when the chain broke...I just didn't take the time to look to see where on the trimmer the the chain came from...hopefully a google search will show where it attaches to and like you said just get a new chain made.

Thanks again everyone!


----------



## Josh

So here's a quick question. Just backlapped the machine and I have it cutting paper all the way across. Is spins fairly easy but not like super easy. When you start the mower and engage the reel it's fairly quiet and then it starts a very high pitched squeel like metal on metal. Is that common without any moisture on the reel?


----------



## SGrabs33

Josh said:


> So here's a quick question. Just backlapped the machine and I have it cutting paper all the way across. Is spins fairly easy but not like super easy. When you start the mower and engage the reel it's fairly quiet and then it starts a very high pitched squeel like metal on metal. Is that common without any moisture on the reel?


Yes. The metal on metal can cause a squeal. Try it while cutting the grass and make sure the noise subsides. You can also try loosening the adjustment bolt just a tad on each side if you want. That could reduce the noise and it will possible still cut paper well.


----------



## Josh

When you have the rear roller down should it free wheel when not engaged?


----------



## SGrabs33

Josh said:


> When you have the rear roller down should it free wheel when not engaged?


No, the rear roller needs to be up to be able to free wheel.

If you want to free wheel and cut around a mailbox or something you need to have the rear roller up and then you can engage the clutch to still use the reel to cut(the rear roller will still spin but not engage the ground because it is in the up position).


----------



## Josh

SGrabs33 said:


> Josh said:
> 
> 
> 
> When you have the rear roller down should it free wheel when not engaged?
> 
> 
> 
> No, the rear roller needs to be up to be able to free wheel.
> 
> If you want to free wheel and cut around a mailbox or something you need to have the rear roller up and then you can engage the clutch to still use the reel to cut(the rear roller will still spin but not engage the ground because it is in the up position).
Click to expand...

Gotcha. When I first got the unit it would free wheel with the wheel down and would spin the reel with the unit off. Now it will just skid along the ground and not turn when not engaged. Wasnt sure if that was an issue or not.


----------



## Cory

Josh said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Josh said:
> 
> 
> 
> When you have the rear roller down should it free wheel when not engaged?
> 
> 
> 
> No, the rear roller needs to be up to be able to free wheel.
> 
> If you want to free wheel and cut around a mailbox or something you need to have the rear roller up and then you can engage the clutch to still use the reel to cut(the rear roller will still spin but not engage the ground because it is in the up position).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Gotcha. When I first got the unit it would free wheel with the wheel down and would spin the reel with the unit off. Now it will just skid along the ground and not turn when not engaged. Wasnt sure if that was an issue or not.
Click to expand...

You should be able to push it with the drum down, it shouldn't push super easy but the drum should still roll not skip. If it's skipping there is to much contact between the reel and bedknife.


----------



## Chasemat96

Hey everyone. My wife and I moved into a new construction home around a month ago and I have roughly 7k square feet of Bermuda sod. I have been using a rotary for years and never have used a reel mower before but I am so impressed with the cut quality I want to make the switch and cut reel low. I am considering a new California Trimmer or a new Mclane. Would the California trimmer be a good fit for a complete beginner like myself? Any suggestions would be very helpful. Thanks!


----------



## hitmonchau

Chasemat96 said:


> Hey everyone. My wife and I moved into a new construction home around a month ago and I have roughly 7k square feet of Bermuda sod. I have been using a rotary for years and never have used a reel mower before but I am so impressed with the cut quality I want to make the switch and cut reel low. I am considering a new California Trimmer or a new Mclane. Would the California trimmer be a good fit for a complete beginner like myself? Any suggestions would be very helpful. Thanks!


I'm in a similar situation, considering also 20 vs 25 inch cut, worth the upgrade for 7-8000 square feet?


----------



## SGrabs33

@Chasemat96 @hitmonchau

I think the California Trimmer is a great REEL for a newb or experienced mower. The brand has been around for a long time and has a great following. It also has a very straight forward operation and maintenance is pretty easy thanks to the ease of adjusting the reel to bedknife.

The 20" or 25" questions is answered by how long you want to spend in the lawn really. 7-8k is a descent amount and the 25" model could save you 10ish minutes per mow or so(YMMV).


----------



## joerob2211

@Chasemat96 @hitmonchau

@SGrabs33 is right on the money. I had an old McClane first then went to a Jacobsen 522a to a cal trimmer. I have around 5k and the Jacobsen was to big and fast for my yard/trees. The cal trimmer is perfect because of the speed and it takes me roughly 30 minutes to mow my yard if that. It is very easy to adjust the HOC and to backlap. My current HOC is 5/8. Second and third picture is last year just under an inch.


----------



## pschattle15

Thoughts on this mower? Listed for $200. The ad says "7 blade reel, carb has been replaced, sharpened, cleaned up etc. Honda engine 2.2hp. Trimmer Lawn Mower Co"

This would be my first reel mower, but the price seems right. Looks like an older model. Thoughts?


----------



## SGrabs33

pschattle15 said:


> Thoughts on this mower? Listed for $200. The ad says "7 blade reel, carb has been replaced, sharpened, cleaned up etc. Honda engine 2.2hp. Trimmer Lawn Mower Co"
> 
> This would be my first reel mower, but the price seems right. Looks like an older model. Thoughts?


Looks pretty descent for a first one. It is a 20"? It looks fairly narrow. Also you will probably want to add a roller which will be another 150-200.


----------



## pschattle15

SGrabs33 said:


> pschattle15 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thoughts on this mower? Listed for $200. The ad says "7 blade reel, carb has been replaced, sharpened, cleaned up etc. Honda engine 2.2hp. Trimmer Lawn Mower Co"
> 
> This would be my first reel mower, but the price seems right. Looks like an older model. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks pretty descent for a first one. It is a 20"? It looks fairly narrow. Also you will probably want to add a roller which will be another 150-200.
Click to expand...

It's an 18". I still think it would be a good entry level reel, dont you think? Anything specific i need to look for if i go look at it?


----------



## Victory Green

i found this California Trimmer on FB. It is an hour drive away. The asking price was $600 and he agreed to $300. 
I will be purchasing a front roller online. 
Is this a good deal or am I getting myself into a lot of repair and replacement parts?


----------



## SGrabs33

@Victory Green it could be in good shape. Hard to tell really. If I were you I would probably pass though. It has a 5 blade REEL which wouldn't be ideal for your Bermuda. If you plan on cutting around 1 inch or lower you would want the 7 blade REEL.


----------



## Victory Green

Ok I will keep looking. Thanks for the help!!!!


----------



## Meximusprime

WillyT said:


> This is what I measured with the roller attachment.
> 
> Middle slot
> 1 - 1 1/4 inch
> 2- 1 1/8 inch
> 3- 1 inch
> 4- 3/4 inch
> 5- 5/8 inch
> 6- 1/2 inch
> 7- 3/8 inch
> 8- n/a


Thank you @WillyT for taking the time to get these measurements! It helped me yesterday as I finally received my new Cali Trimmer. And of course everyone else who has contributed great info on this thread!


----------



## NMRR

Bought a new RL25-10 and I'm trying to get the hang of it. Have had a 20 inch 7 blade McLane for about a decade and the speed of the drive wheel makes this new one a different beast.

My question for you guys is on HOC. I have a front roller installed on the new one and have it on the lowest cut setting it will take. Position six on the high axle. Only two more notches to go lower but then the outside frame/sidewall (not the bedknife) bottoms out. So, I'm as low as it will go right now and it is still a good .25 higher than I normally cut, which is under a half inch on my Tif 419.

Question.....and bear with me here....anyone ever file down the bottom portion of the outside frame on each side to give more clearance for an issue like this? Like I said, my bed knife has the clearance to go at least one more setting down but the side wall is my issue.

Any thoughts or alternative recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## SGrabs33

​


NMRR said:


> Bought a new RL25-10 and I'm trying to get the hang of it. Have had a 20 inch 7 blade McLane for about a decade and the speed of the drive wheel makes this new one a different beast.
> 
> My question for you guys is on HOC. I have a front roller installed on the new one and have it on the lowest cut setting it will take. Position six on the high axle. Only two more notches to go lower but then the outside frame/sidewall (not the bedknife) bottoms out. So, I'm as low as it will go right now and it is still a good .25 higher than I normally cut, which is under a half inch on my Tif 419.
> 
> Question.....and bear with me here....anyone ever file down the bottom portion of the outside frame on each side to give more clearance for an issue like this? Like I said, my bed knife has the clearance to go at least one more setting down but the side wall is my issue.
> 
> Any thoughts or alternative recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks.


Congrats on the new mower.

Hmmm, something must be a little off. Position 6 is is technically below the minimum height of cut of 1/4". If you put the mower of level concrete can you check the height of cut at that low setting you have it on? You do have it in the higher set of holes, right?


----------



## NMRR

SGrabs33 said:


> ​
> 
> 
> NMRR said:
> 
> 
> 
> Bought a new RL25-10 and I'm trying to get the hang of it. Have had a 20 inch 7 blade McLane for about a decade and the speed of the drive wheel makes this new one a different beast.
> 
> My question for you guys is on HOC. I have a front roller installed on the new one and have it on the lowest cut setting it will take. Position six on the high axle. Only two more notches to go lower but then the outside frame/sidewall (not the bedknife) bottoms out. So, I'm as low as it will go right now and it is still a good .25 higher than I normally cut, which is under a half inch on my Tif 419.
> 
> Question.....and bear with me here....anyone ever file down the bottom portion of the outside frame on each side to give more clearance for an issue like this? Like I said, my bed knife has the clearance to go at least one more setting down but the side wall is my issue.
> 
> Any thoughts or alternative recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats on the new mower.
> 
> Hmmm, something must be a little off. Position 6 is is technically below the minimum height of cut of 1/4". If you put the mower of level concrete can you check the height of cut at that low setting you have it on? You do have it in the higher set of holes, right?
Click to expand...

My apologies. You are correct. It is actually on position 5. Position 6 is where the side walls bottom out.

Even at 5, the actual cut is nowhere close to 1/4. My yard is pretty level and it is 1/2 inch tall or more across most of the yard. That is where I had the idea of filing down the side walls to allow for one more setting down because it isn't the bed knife that is bottoming out just yet.


----------



## SGrabs33

@NMRR no need to apologize. I know the HOC can be a little different with the roller because those listed heights are based on the caster wheels. Maybe take a ruler and stick it down in between the blades to see what your actual HOC is.

Would love to see a pic of your yard. Sounds like you have it in great shape!

As to Filing down there frame..... I cant think of any damage that could be done by doing that. It may get you another 1/4".


----------



## NMRR

@SGrabs33 , it is a trimmer brand roller so would there be a height differential from their casters? Is that not something they'd engineer to be consistent?

Thank you for your time. I appreciate it.


----------



## SGrabs33

NMRR said:


> @SGrabs33 , it is a trimmer brand roller so would there be a height differential from their casters? Is that not something they'd engineer to be consistent?
> 
> Thank you for your time. I appreciate it.


There could def be a difference. Not a lot, but some. Also depends on how tight you have some of the nuts and bolts that are linked to the height adjustment system.

Take a ruler and stick it in between the blade. See what the height is to the top of your bedknife.


----------



## NMRR

After using a ruler, the Trimmer's lowest height is right at .5 inch. Dragged out the old McLane and it has five levels lower than that for me to choose from. Yard is .25 lower now and looks much nicer with my old red 7 blade.

Looks like I've got a brand new 25 inch 10 blade trimmer with a roller for sale if anyone is interested!


----------



## LBK_419

NMRR said:


> After using a ruler, the Trimmer's lowest height is right at .5 inch. Dragged out the old McLane and it has five levels lower than that for me to choose from. Yard is .25 lower now and looks much nicer with my old red 7 blade.
> 
> Looks like I've got a brand new 25 inch 10 blade trimmer with a roller for sale if anyone is interested!


@NMRR I'd be interested if the price is right!
I have 2 restored 20" California trimmers that I'm considering selling... I'd love to sell them and buy yours...


----------



## NMRR

LBK_419 said:


> NMRR said:
> 
> 
> 
> After using a ruler, the Trimmer's lowest height is right at .5 inch. Dragged out the old McLane and it has five levels lower than that for me to choose from. Yard is .25 lower now and looks much nicer with my old red 7 blade.
> 
> Looks like I've got a brand new 25 inch 10 blade trimmer with a roller for sale if anyone is interested!
> 
> 
> 
> @NMRR I'd be interested if the price is right!
> I have 2 restored 20" California trimmers that I'm considering selling... I'd love to sell them and buy yours...
Click to expand...

You know what's funny? I think we're in the same town. I assume you're in Lubbock?

It really is a nice machine. Just isn't cutting as low as I expected and not sure I can do anything about it. Let me know if you'd like to chat about it.


----------



## LBK_419

NMRR said:


> LBK_419 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NMRR said:
> 
> 
> 
> After using a ruler, the Trimmer's lowest height is right at .5 inch. Dragged out the old McLane and it has five levels lower than that for me to choose from. Yard is .25 lower now and looks much nicer with my old red 7 blade.
> 
> Looks like I've got a brand new 25 inch 10 blade trimmer with a roller for sale if anyone is interested!
> 
> 
> 
> @NMRR I'd be interested if the price is right!
> I have 2 restored 20" California trimmers that I'm considering selling... I'd love to sell them and buy yours...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You know what's funny? I think we're in the same town. I assume you're in Lubbock?
> 
> It really is a nice machine. Just isn't cutting as low as I expected and not sure I can do anything about it. Let me know if you'd like to chat about it.
Click to expand...

That's funny. I just noticed that. I'll send you a PM


----------



## Percheron

I'm looking at buying a CalTrimmer, are you guys happy with yours? The 20" high cut is what I'll probably get as my lawn isn't smooth enough yet for lower than 1.5"and our soil is rocky and sandy so it dries out quickly and the grass does better a little longer. Anyway, I'd like your opinions.

-Derek


----------



## Paul M

I just pulled the trigger on a new 20" standard, 7 blade with Honda engine and front roller, it will be arriving this Wednesday. I am replacing my 1980's vintage Tru Cut. Hopefully it works as good and lasts as long.


----------



## LawnGeek

Cory said:


> Bermuda_Newbie said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is kind of a strange question but how freely should my reel roll when my mower is off? I was trying to see if my reel and bed knife we're adjusted to cut paper but it's fairly hard to move. Should it spin freely or should there be some resistance. I tried to find a video of someone spinning the reel with the mower off but I couldn't find one. I seem to remember it being looser when I got it back from getting sharpened last year but I could be remembering wrong. Can someone point me in the direction of a video or tell me their experience when there's is calibrated properly?
> 
> Edit: and I just read @Cory 's post above mine. So I guess I need to loosen my reel. Cool.
> 
> 
> 
> I keep explaining it but how about a video
> 
> 
> 
> :thumbup:
> 
> It still cuts paper and I'm barely pulling it or pushing it. I like it set this way because I don't have to lift the drive drum ever.
Click to expand...

Cory, is there any way you could re post this video? After reading these comments, I'm paranoid that mine has never spun as freely as it should! I have to push relatively hard to spin the reel, unless the reel chain is removed...


----------



## Cory

@LawnGeek not sure why that video disappeared but here's a new link 




Watching the video again looks like it could have been a little looser, you can hear the squeal.


----------



## LawnGeek

Thank you, Cory. Now I know that my set up is incorrect. I tried it again today, before you posted the video. My wheel does not turn at all, completely locked. I have the suspicion that even if I were to loosen the reel, to the point that it makes no contact, that the drive wheel still won't turn. I'll have to see what I can find. Thanks again!


----------



## LawnGeek

I spent some time on my trimmer today, trying to see if I could get to the bottom of why my drive wheel will not spin freely, as Cory's does in the video above. I disconnected the reel chain, to see if it might be something will the reel keeping the drive wheel frozen. Come to find out, it still would not turn, with the reel chain disconnected. The drive wheel isn't frozen, but very difficult to turn. I would like to think that my late model would perform the same as a newer model. Mine does happen to be the commercial RL207. Maybe the chain driven drive shaft operates differently? If not, then the only thing i can think of is that the drive shaft is not turning as freely as it should and perhaps the bearings on each end are shot. Anyone here have the same model as i do?


----------



## SGrabs33

LawnGeek said:


> I spent some time on my trimmer today, trying to see if I could get to the bottom of why my drive wheel will not spin freely, as Cory's does in the video above. I disconnected the reel chain, to see if it might be something will the reel keeping the drive wheel frozen. Come to find out, it still would not turn, with the reel chain disconnected. The drive wheel isn't frozen, but very difficult to turn. I would like to think that my late model would perform the same as a newer model. Mine does happen to be the commercial RL207. Maybe the chain driven drive shaft operates differently? If not, then the only thing i can think of is that the drive shaft is not turning as freely as it should and perhaps the bearings on each end are shot. Anyone here have the same model as i do?


I believe you are correct, that on the commercial model 20" the rear roller will not free spin when the reel chain is removed like on the homeowner models. The clutch operation is a bit different.


----------



## NewHomeOwner

I've spent a month researching which reel mowers to go with and decided to go with a cal trimmer. Reliability was a big factor. It was originally bought at Peachtree Mowers. It took a minute getting used to being pulled around the yard. I think I'm gonna need to get it serviced at first, until I can get everything needed to service/sharpen it myself.


----------



## rmattgolden

Hey all,

First post and I'm new to reel mowers...but I'm diving in deep. Bermuda in Athens, GA area.

I picked up a 25" cal trimmer from ReelWorks and scalped my lawn to .5" and now am cutting twice a week at .75". It's greening up fairly well, but I'm kinda concerned with some waviness in the cut. Obviously with the walk speed and FOC tied together, I can't really just speed up the reel and walk slower. Anyone else have this issue or any suggestions? Do I just need to keep cutting?

Also - who knew it was so hard to walk straight?


----------



## Steely

Can a 20" High Cut be converted to a standard cut? If so, is there a kit to do that? I found a really nice TL205HC on FM, but I want the low cut version.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Steely it can be done but it isn't too easy. Here are the basics that I have been told on how to go from HC to H.

Move the rear axle position in the frame
Move the drive roller assembly mounting position (disconnecting / reconnecting the springs)
Replace the axle drive chain
Replace the driver roller lift chain
Add a link to the reel drive chain


----------



## Steely

SGrabs33 said:


> @Steely it can be done but it isn't too easy. Here are the basics that I have been told on how to go from HC to H.
> 
> Move the rear axle position in the frame
> Move the drive roller assembly mounting position (disconnecting / reconnecting the springs)
> Replace the axle drive chain
> Replace the driver roller lift chain
> Add a link to the reel drive chain


@SGrabs33 thanks for the quick reply. That sounds way more involved than I was hoping for. Probably keep looking for something else.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

@SGrabs33 I backlapped around end of Febuary after my spring scalp.

Mower is cutting fine as far as I can see.

When should I backlap again? Can I make it through the season or should I be backlapping once or twice a season?

Thanks


----------



## SGrabs33

ENC_Lawn said:


> @SGrabs33 I backlapped around end of Febuary after my spring scalp.
> 
> Mower is cutting fine as far as I can see.
> 
> When should I backlap again? Can I make it through the season or should I be backlapping once or twice a season?
> 
> Thanks


I would reccomend checking the REEL to bedknife every few weeks atleast. Probably backlapping twice a season if you have under 10k or so. Lean it back and do a paper test to check.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

SGrabs33 said:


> ENC_Lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> @SGrabs33 I backlapped around end of Febuary after my spring scalp.
> 
> Mower is cutting fine as far as I can see.
> 
> When should I backlap again? Can I make it through the season or should I be backlapping once or twice a season?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> I would reccomend checking the REEL to bedknife every few weeks atleast. Probably backlapping twice a season if you have under 10k or so. Lean it back and do a paper test to check.
Click to expand...

 :thumbup:


----------



## Brou

New CT owner here (20"). Crazy question...should the reel keep spinning when the clutch lever isn't engaged? I think I know the answer to that.

So next question, what would cause the reel to keep spinning even after the lever is released?

I haven't mowed with it yet but while testing it out the only way I could get the reel and wheel to stop was by reducing the engine's speed to a crawl.


----------



## Paul M

Kamauxx said:


> New CT owner here (20"). Crazy question...should the reel keep spinning when the clutch lever isn't engaged? I think I know the answer to that.
> 
> So next question, what would cause the reel to keep spinning even after the lever is released?
> 
> I haven't mowed with it yet but while testing it out the only way I could get the reel and wheel to stop was by reducing the engine's speed to a crawl.


No, the reel and roller should not spin with the clutch disengaged no matter what the engine speed is. My CT is a month old and when the clutch is release there is no movement.


----------



## Brou

My California Trimmer review:

I bought. Swardman Electra 55 about five weeks ago. As the temps continued to creep up they conspired with my yard and Fiskars manual reel mower to kicked my butt. I got tired of fighting with the heat. I got tired of the "washboard" effect from the Fiskars (not to mention I was only cutting at 1 3/4"). Things got so miserable that I cut the yard with my Timemaster 30 for the first time this year. I decided not to keep waiting on the Swardman.

So yesterday I went ahead and bought a California Trimmer 20". I've read more than a few times about the learning curve of using a powered reel so I started out on the side of my house where it's kind of hidden from street view. With the first squeeze of the clutch lever the mower was off and the grass catcher slammed into my fence. Good start! As I moved onto the main part of the lawn I realized it was a bit more difficult to cut in a straight line. Actually, my first few passes looked like I was drunk mowing. As I neared the end of yard I began to get the hang of it and the lines straightened out. It also took me until the end of the cut to get the hang of turning at the end of a pass.

After cutting I was honestly quite disappointed. I put the mower away and told my wife how horrible it was. I went back out to edge the lawn and someone walked by and said "your yard looks like a golf course!" As few minutes later, as I'm blowing the clippings onto the yard the same guy walked by and yelled "nobody got nothing on your lawn!"

Here I've been struggling with a Fiskars for months and never heard a thing from a neighbor. Three minutes after the CT cut I'm getting compliments.

I went in the house and checked out my handiwork from an upstairs window and decided it wasn't nearly as bad as I felt. I'm not exactly happy with my performance but I'm thrilled with the cut the California Trimmer gave me. I just need a little more practice with it before I'm completely comfortable.

As for the clutch issue mentioned above, it actually worked itself out a few minutes into the cut. I guess the tolerances were a little tight from the factory. All's well now.

Overall, I'm happy with my purchase.

P.S. it was over $2k cheaper than the Swardman I ordered, so that's cool too. :thumbup:


----------



## Chocolate Lab

Uh, oh... This morning I was mowing my easy little 1200 sf or so and suddenly the mower wouldn't move forward. Yes, the drive drum was down and the motor was running just fine, but it wouldn't go forward.

I cut the motor off and went over to the small strip I hadn't done yet, thinking maybe it needed a little rest.  Now it won't start. I haven't tried it again after letting it cool down.

Any ideas?


----------



## Paul M

Kamauxx said:


> My California Trimmer review:
> 
> I bought. Swardman Electra 55 about five weeks ago. As the temps continued to creep up they conspired with my yard and Fiskars manual reel mower to kicked my butt. I got tired of fighting with the heat. I got tired of the "washboard" effect from the Fiskars (not to mention I was only cutting at 1 3/4"). Things got so miserable that I cut the yard with my Timemaster 30 for the first time this year. I decided not to keep waiting on the Swardman.
> 
> So yesterday I went ahead and bought a California Trimmer 20". I've read more than a few times about the learning curve of using a powered reel so I started out on the side of my house where it's kind of hidden from street view. With the first squeeze of the clutch lever the mower was off and the grass catcher slammed into my fence. Good start! As I moved onto the main part of the lawn I realized it was a bit more difficult to cut in a straight line. Actually, my first few passes looked like I was drunk mowing. As I neared the end of yard I began to get the hang of it and the lines straightened out. It also took me until the end of the cut to get the hang of turning at the end of a pass.
> 
> After cutting I was honestly quite disappointed. I put the mower away and told my wife how horrible it was. I went back out to edge the lawn and someone walked by and said "your yard looks like a golf course!" As few minutes later, as I'm blowing the clippings onto the yard the same guy walked by and yelled "nobody got nothing on your lawn!"
> 
> Here I've been struggling with a Fiskars for months and never heard a thing from a neighbor. Three minutes after the CT cut I'm getting compliments.
> 
> I went in the house and checked out my handiwork from an upstairs window and decided it wasn't nearly as bad as I felt. I'm not exactly happy with my performance but I'm thrilled with the cut the California Trimmer gave me. I just need a little more practice with it before I'm completely comfortable.
> 
> As for the clutch issue mentioned above, it actually worked itself out a few minutes into the cut. I guess the tolerances were a little tight from the factory. All's well now.
> 
> Overall, I'm happy with my purchase.
> 
> P.S. it was over $2k cheaper than the Swardman I ordered, so that's cool too. :thumbup:


I went through the same thing on the first cut with my new CT after owning a Tru Cut for many years. Now that I've got around eight mows in with it, it's a piece of cake and I actually like it better in some ways. I had to shorten the chain that lifts the drive roller since my turf is a little thicker so when it is lifted it does not make contact and keep driving the mower when I don't want it to. For the price point, the CT does a great job.


----------



## Brou

Paul M said:


> Kamauxx said:
> 
> 
> 
> My California Trimmer review:
> 
> I bought. Swardman Electra 55 about five weeks ago. As the temps continued to creep up they conspired with my yard and Fiskars manual reel mower to kicked my butt. I got tired of fighting with the heat. I got tired of the "washboard" effect from the Fiskars (not to mention I was only cutting at 1 3/4"). Things got so miserable that I cut the yard with my Timemaster 30 for the first time this year. I decided not to keep waiting on the Swardman.
> 
> So yesterday I went ahead and bought a California Trimmer 20". I've read more than a few times about the learning curve of using a powered reel so I started out on the side of my house where it's kind of hidden from street view. With the first squeeze of the clutch lever the mower was off and the grass catcher slammed into my fence. Good start! As I moved onto the main part of the lawn I realized it was a bit more difficult to cut in a straight line. Actually, my first few passes looked like I was drunk mowing. As I neared the end of yard I began to get the hang of it and the lines straightened out. It also took me until the end of the cut to get the hang of turning at the end of a pass.
> 
> After cutting I was honestly quite disappointed. I put the mower away and told my wife how horrible it was. I went back out to edge the lawn and someone walked by and said "your yard looks like a golf course!" As few minutes later, as I'm blowing the clippings onto the yard the same guy walked by and yelled "nobody got nothing on your lawn!"
> 
> Here I've been struggling with a Fiskars for months and never heard a thing from a neighbor. Three minutes after the CT cut I'm getting compliments.
> 
> I went in the house and checked out my handiwork from an upstairs window and decided it wasn't nearly as bad as I felt. I'm not exactly happy with my performance but I'm thrilled with the cut the California Trimmer gave me. I just need a little more practice with it before I'm completely comfortable.
> 
> As for the clutch issue mentioned above, it actually worked itself out a few minutes into the cut. I guess the tolerances were a little tight from the factory. All's well now.
> 
> Overall, I'm happy with my purchase.
> 
> P.S. it was over $2k cheaper than the Swardman I ordered, so that's cool too. :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> I had to shorten the chain that lifts the drive roller since my turf is a little thicker so when it is lifted it does not make contact and keep driving the mower when I don't want it to.
Click to expand...

Ya know, I actually noticed the same thing. How hard was it to shorten the chain?

Is this process the same for the CT? 




*Edit: Nevermind. I just realized there's a bolt going through it. I'll do it when my garage isnt 200 degrees. How many links did you shorten yours by?


----------



## Paul M

Kamauxx said:


> Paul M said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Kamauxx said:
> 
> 
> 
> My California Trimmer review:
> 
> I bought. Swardman Electra 55 about five weeks ago. As the temps continued to creep up they conspired with my yard and Fiskars manual reel mower to kicked my butt. I got tired of fighting with the heat. I got tired of the "washboard" effect from the Fiskars (not to mention I was only cutting at 1 3/4"). Things got so miserable that I cut the yard with my Timemaster 30 for the first time this year. I decided not to keep waiting on the Swardman.
> 
> So yesterday I went ahead and bought a California Trimmer 20". I've read more than a few times about the learning curve of using a powered reel so I started out on the side of my house where it's kind of hidden from street view. With the first squeeze of the clutch lever the mower was off and the grass catcher slammed into my fence. Good start! As I moved onto the main part of the lawn I realized it was a bit more difficult to cut in a straight line. Actually, my first few passes looked like I was drunk mowing. As I neared the end of yard I began to get the hang of it and the lines straightened out. It also took me until the end of the cut to get the hang of turning at the end of a pass.
> 
> After cutting I was honestly quite disappointed. I put the mower away and told my wife how horrible it was. I went back out to edge the lawn and someone walked by and said "your yard looks like a golf course!" As few minutes later, as I'm blowing the clippings onto the yard the same guy walked by and yelled "nobody got nothing on your lawn!"
> 
> Here I've been struggling with a Fiskars for months and never heard a thing from a neighbor. Three minutes after the CT cut I'm getting compliments.
> 
> I went in the house and checked out my handiwork from an upstairs window and decided it wasn't nearly as bad as I felt. I'm not exactly happy with my performance but I'm thrilled with the cut the California Trimmer gave me. I just need a little more practice with it before I'm completely comfortable.
> 
> As for the clutch issue mentioned above, it actually worked itself out a few minutes into the cut. I guess the tolerances were a little tight from the factory. All's well now.
> 
> Overall, I'm happy with my purchase.
> 
> P.S. it was over $2k cheaper than the Swardman I ordered, so that's cool too. :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> I had to shorten the chain that lifts the drive roller since my turf is a little thicker so when it is lifted it does not make contact and keep driving the mower when I don't want it to.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ya know, I actually noticed the same thing. How hard was it to shorten the chain?
> 
> Is this process the same for the CT?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit: Nevermind. I just realized there's a bolt going through it. I'll do it when my garage isnt 200 degrees. How many links did you shorten yours by?
Click to expand...

It's easy, you don't need to remove links, just get a machine screw #6 or possibly #8 about an inch long with a lock nut, put the roller down and remove some of the slack by folding a couple links together and put the screw through them and tighten the nut down. You could also use a strong wire tie. I believe it is shown in one of the previous posts on this thread. Make sure you do not shorten the chain too much or the roller will contact the frame and you will not have adequate contact with your turf. Doing this was a game changer.


----------



## Brou

Paul M said:


> Kamauxx said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Paul M said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had to shorten the chain that lifts the drive roller since my turf is a little thicker so when it is lifted it does not make contact and keep driving the mower when I don't want it to.
> 
> 
> 
> Ya know, I actually noticed the same thing. How hard was it to shorten the chain?
> 
> Is this process the same for the CT?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit: Nevermind. I just realized there's a bolt going through it. I'll do it when my garage isnt 200 degrees. How many links did you shorten yours by?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It's easy, you don't need to remove links, just get a machine screw #6 or possibly #8 about an inch long with a lock nut, put the roller down and remove some of the slack by folding a couple links together and put the screw through them and tighten the nut down. You could also use a strong wire tie. I believe it is shown in one of the previous posts on this thread. Make sure you do not shorten the chain too much or the roller will contact the frame and you will not have adequate contact with your turf. Doing this was a game changer.
Click to expand...

Man I'm glad you mentioned that. The nut and bolt was already there. It only took a few minutes to shorten. Can't wait to mow in a couple of days! Thanks :thumbup:


----------



## PGunn

Kamauxx said:


> My California Trimmer review:
> 
> I bought. Swardman Electra 55 about five weeks ago. As the temps continued to creep up they conspired with my yard and Fiskars manual reel mower to kicked my butt. I got tired of fighting with the heat. I got tired of the "washboard" effect from the Fiskars (not to mention I was only cutting at 1 3/4"). Things got so miserable that I cut the yard with my Timemaster 30 for the first time this year. I decided not to keep waiting on the Swardman.
> 
> So yesterday I went ahead and bought a California Trimmer 20". I've read more than a few times about the learning curve of using a powered reel so I started out on the side of my house where it's kind of hidden from street view. With the first squeeze of the clutch lever the mower was off and the grass catcher slammed into my fence. Good start! As I moved onto the main part of the lawn I realized it was a bit more difficult to cut in a straight line. Actually, my first few passes looked like I was drunk mowing. As I neared the end of yard I began to get the hang of it and the lines straightened out. It also took me until the end of the cut to get the hang of turning at the end of a pass.
> 
> After cutting I was honestly quite disappointed. I put the mower away and told my wife how horrible it was. I went back out to edge the lawn and someone walked by and said "your yard looks like a golf course!" As few minutes later, as I'm blowing the clippings onto the yard the same guy walked by and yelled "nobody got nothing on your lawn!"
> 
> Here I've been struggling with a Fiskars for months and never heard a thing from a neighbor. Three minutes after the CT cut I'm getting compliments.
> 
> I went in the house and checked out my handiwork from an upstairs window and decided it wasn't nearly as bad as I felt. I'm not exactly happy with my performance but I'm thrilled with the cut the California Trimmer gave me. I just need a little more practice with it before I'm completely comfortable.
> 
> As for the clutch issue mentioned above, it actually worked itself out a few minutes into the cut. I guess the tolerances were a little tight from the factory. All's well now.
> 
> Overall, I'm happy with my purchase.
> 
> P.S. it was over $2k cheaper than the Swardman I ordered, so that's cool too. :thumbup:


I'm glad I came across your review. I have been looking hard at Swardman, but given the backorders and it already being mid-July, I figured it wasnt worth it for this year..... That will be an offseason purchase! Then I got to looking at the CT, because of the rear wheel. I don't have a flat yard, it's got a slight slope to it and my JD greensmower slips quite a bit and have concerns a Swardman would too. I really do like the versatility Swardman has to offer but think a CT will suit me just fine too. Doe the CT have a variable throttle or is it all or nothing like most greens mowers?


----------



## SGrabs33

@PGunn the throttle is variable but the reel and propel are linked. You don't want to throttle it down too much as it will lessen the reel speed. You can however still engage the clutch with the rear roller in the up position and cut without the self propel.


----------



## Paul M

I just set the throttle for a comfortable pace, with the Honda engine there is plenty of power and it's quite too.


----------



## johnr

Scalping ?? So I have a bermuda lawn which has some 'bumps'. It was leveled once 7 or 8 years ago. 
My question is this: IF your CT has a roller, does it scalp the grass ... say at 3/4 inch setting .... without a lot of leveling of the lawn? I am concerned that the reel may be a waste without expensive leveling first.
Your thoughts on how much scalping occurs....with or without a front roller, and without a perfectly level lawn.
Thanks for your input !

p.s. I live in a "reel mower desert" i.e. no reel mower dealers or storefronts. Any suggestion for online sources, or ones to stay away from?


----------



## SGrabs33

@johnr front roller addition will greatly reduce the possibility of scalping. No need to level before entering into the reel mower market. If you have deep divots in your lawn pick up a bag of play sand and fill them in. Other than that you should be just fine around 3/4.


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## Paul M

If you order the roller option it will be installed when it ships and the caster assembly is also included with the machine and will be packed with the mower as well.


----------



## SGrabs33

Paul M said:


> If you order the roller option it will be installed when it ships and the caster assembly is also included with the machine and will be packed with the mower as well.


Some retailers offer a roller option now as well :thumbup:


----------



## Paul M

johnr said:


> Scalping ?? So I have a bermuda lawn which has some 'bumps'. It was leveled once 7 or 8 years ago.
> My question is this: IF your CT has a roller, does it scalp the grass ... say at 3/4 inch setting .... without a lot of leveling of the lawn? I am concerned that the reel may be a waste without expensive leveling first.
> Your thoughts on how much scalping occurs....with or without a front roller, and without a perfectly level lawn.
> Thanks for your input !
> 
> p.s. I live in a "reel mower desert" i.e. no reel mower dealers or storefronts. Any suggestion for online sources, or ones to stay away from?


Cal Trimmers are easily bought online, you can raven order them through the Home Depot if you want, however, they don't offer the commercial models.


----------



## PGunn

So I am beginning to take a hard look at the CT RL207H-GX120. I am currently using a JD greens mower on a yard that has a decent slope to it. I get some slippage but nothing too crazy, but the main reason I am looking at this option is due to the more "ease of use". My greens mower is a beast to maneuver around the yard. It does a beautiful job but with an 11 blade reel, it requires me to cut about every 72hrs or it misses grass. On top of that, it is not variable speed, so you engage, and you go, making tight spots tricky work in.

One of my concerns is that I hear a lot about the rear wheel leaving marks in the yards on the CT, but when I look at pictures of yards cut with them, they look great and I really see any concerns...... I am cutting at 1" and may get to .75 down the road but 1" is looking good thus far.

Any advice from someone who joined the CT family from a greensmower? I know usually its the other way around but thought I'd ask. Thank you!


----------



## LBK_419

@PGunn 
I have three CTs and have never had an issue with the rear wheel leaving any marks. I also have heard of other people saying they have issues so I'm not sure what causes it. I have had my original CT for 20 years. Last year I had a JD 220B for about 6 months, but had to sell if for the exact reasons you speak of. The CT is built like a tank! And...in my opinion is very easy to maneuver. Parts are readily available and affordable. Most of all, compared to a JD, the height adjustment and reel to bedknife adjustment are a breeze. I saw no difference in cut at all between the JD and CT. I cut mine anywhere from 1/4" to 1/2" throughout the season. Holler at me if you have any questions at all.


----------



## PGunn

Thanks @LBK_419 maybe someone else can chime regarding the wheel issues that we all keep hearing about.


----------



## Brou

I've read complaints about the wheels as well. I think it comes from people driving through turns instead of picking up the wheel then turning.

Scroll forward to 2:15 and check out the technique being used to avoid that issue.

https://youtu.be/w-E7SA2AiXU


----------



## PGunn

That would make a lot more sense. I always assumed it had to do with the lawn stripes, not necessarily the turning around.


----------



## Gilley11

Just read through this whole thread, glad I did. @SGrabs33 , what are the differences between the commercial and homeowner models other than engine?


----------



## SGrabs33

@Gilley11

Pro 20" and 25" is chain driven. They come with GX120 and GX160. The clutch is different than the homeowner model. To engage the clutch on the pro you throw a Lever forward(similar to Toro) and it locks in. To disengage the clutch you pull that lever back. Adjusting the height of cut is the same. Adjusting the reel to bedknife is more difficult on the pro model. The reel is adjusted to the bedknife by tapping the cam holding the reel bearing similar to the McLane and trucut.



The 20" homeowner model comes with a Briggs BS550 or honda Gx120. The clutch is belt driven so you squeeze the left handle to engage the clutch. The reel to bedknife adjustment is the easiest on this model by far, when compared to McLane and trucut. There are two posts, one on each side of the mower, which turn and adjust the bedknife closer or further from the reel. It's much more precise than other models/brands.



The other components are the same I believe. No reason to believe that the pro model with last longer than the homeowner model.

I really only sell the homeowner model and the 25" pro model. There is no 25" homeowner model.

The 20" homeowner model is super easy to work on and maintain for a homeowner. That why I like it the most.


----------



## Gilley11

@SGrabs33 thanks again 😏


----------



## Jbird95

I was told the 20" CT is significantly more user friendly than the 25." I'm torn as I am looking to reel 8000sqdt of zorro zoyisa. I'm currently mowing with a 48" ZT and the thought of going from 48 to 20 is rattling


----------



## PGunn

@Jbird95 I've been mowing 9k with an 18" JD. Ordered a CT 20" that arrives tomorrow. It's worth the few extra passes in my opinion to use the reel.


----------



## pittpanther

Hello all - new Cal Trimmer 20" owner. Finished my first cut tonight with it. Very happy, except is it me or is the grass catcher completely worthless? I tried all 3 settings on the arm, and I found more grass flying out of the catcher than in! Is there some trick or modification that can make it actually worthwhile using? Anyone using the grass shield?

https://zampree.com/products/grass-shield-ho?_pos=3&_sid=fcc2a3586&_ss=r


----------



## SGrabs33

pittpanther said:


> Hello all - new Cal Trimmer 20" owner. Finished my first cut tonight with it. Very happy, except is it me or is the grass catcher completely worthless? I tried all 3 settings on the arm, and I found more grass flying out of the catcher than in! Is there some trick or modification that can make it actually worthwhile using? Anyone using the grass shield?
> 
> https://zampree.com/products/grass-shield-ho?_pos=3&_sid=fcc2a3586&_ss=r


Congrats on the new mower!

That grass shield is probably the actual part that is already in the mower that helps throw the grass forward. I've seen people place covered over other brands grass catchers when having similar issues. Might be worth a try.


----------



## Brou

pittpanther said:


> Hello all - new Cal Trimmer 20" owner. Finished my first cut tonight with it. Very happy, except is it me or is the grass catcher completely worthless? I tried all 3 settings on the arm, and I found more grass flying out of the catcher than in! Is there some trick or modification that can make it actually worthwhile using? Anyone using the grass shield?
> 
> https://zampree.com/products/grass-shield-ho?_pos=3&_sid=fcc2a3586&_ss=r


I used the grass catcher for about 45 seconds before abandoning it. Not only does a lot of the grass miss the catcher, it also makes it harder to see where you're going.

If you're scalping it'll probably help to reduce the mess.


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## PGunn

New CT 20" owner as of yesterday. Did a cut at 1" today and I really think it did a better job than my JD greensmower. Mostly due to my HOC and it being a 7blade vs. the 11 blade of the JD. Maybe if I was at 1/4" or 3/8" a greensmower would work better but I am beyond impressed with the maneuverability and ease of use of this machine. Happy owner!


----------



## Gilley11

PGunn said:


> New CT 20" owner as of yesterday. Did a cut at 1" today and I really think it did a better job than my JD greensmower. Mostly due to my HOC and it being a 7blade vs. the 11 blade of the JD. Maybe if I was at 1/4" or 3/8" a greensmower would work better but I am beyond impressed with the maneuverability and ease of use of this machine. Happy owner!


Awesome to hear. Got any pictures?


----------



## PGunn

Gilley11 said:


> PGunn said:
> 
> 
> 
> New CT 20" owner as of yesterday. Did a cut at 1" today and I really think it did a better job than my JD greensmower. Mostly due to my HOC and it being a 7blade vs. the 11 blade of the JD. Maybe if I was at 1/4" or 3/8" a greensmower would work better but I am beyond impressed with the maneuverability and ease of use of this machine. Happy owner!
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore the crooked lines... first timer here.
> 
> Awesome to hear. Got any pictures?
Click to expand...


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## SGrabs33

@PGunn great stripes! Looks great!


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## johnr

Nice mower and great lawn. But I got to ask, did you buy used or new because I know new are on backorder for another few weeks or so.
Good luck with your purchase.


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## PGunn

Thanks!!

Brand new. Ordered last Tuesday and it arrived yesterday. They put me in touch with a rep out of Dallas and he got it all taken care of for me. Happy to share his info with you, send me a DM.


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## Jbird95

@PGunn

I'm really looking forward to hearing about your experiences the CT. What zoysia type do you have?


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## PGunn

Jbird95 said:


> @PGunn
> 
> I'm really looking forward to hearing about your experiences the CT. What zoysia type do you have?


@Jbird95 It's Meyer's.


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## johnr

Scalping with the Trimmer:

1. If you scalp with the Trimmer, how much wear is done to the reel and bedding knife? Would the reel need to shapened or would a simple backlap take care of something like this? I assume with a scalp on my uneven lawn I will hit dirt a couple of times also. Ug!

2. Once the lawn has been sand leveled, what is the wear and tare on the Trimmer for the first few cuts with all the sand being tossed about during these cuts?

I am sure the Trimmer is up to it but at what "damage", so to speak. Would appreciate your thoughts or experience.


----------



## Bermuda_Newbie

Where would be a good place to purchase a replacement bedknife? My 4 year old planned a trap of rocks in my grass that was missed. The bedknife snapped and now I'm midscalp and need a replacement. I looked on ebay and there's one for $42. Does that seem like a reasonable price?


----------



## SGrabs33

Bermuda_Newbie said:


> Where would be a good place to purchase a replacement bedknife? My 4 year old planned a trap of rocks in my grass that was missed. The bedknife snapped and now I'm midscalp and need a replacement. I looked on ebay and there's one for $42. Does that seem like a reasonable price?


Yes 46 is the retail. Just make sure that one fits your model.


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## Bermuda_Newbie

I don't know if this can go here or needs to go in the marketplace but I accidentally bought the wrong bedknife for my caltrimmer. I bought a 20" classic and I need the 20" homeowners. If anyone with a 20" classic is in need of a bedknife or wants to purchase a spare, let me know. I paid $46 for it but make me a fair offer and it's yours. Don't want it to go to waste.


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## Brou

Cal Veterans, I have a question. When I mow I'm left with these little pieces of grass that are cut lower than the rest for some reason. It leaves large amounts of brown specs all over the lawn. Anyone know what could cause this?

You can see them scattered about in this picture.



And a close up of the lawn confetti.


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## Gilley11

Got any close-up pics of those brown spots?


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## Brou

Gilley11 said:


> Got any close-up pics of those brown spots?


Just edited and posted above.

*Edit*Asking specifically about the dead patches that are cut and lying about.

The other brown areas are sod webworms and fungus that I'm fighting. Hmm, I suppose now that I say that it could be areas where the worms destroyed the roots and the reel is just blowing the rootless grass around.


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## Gilley11

Yeah that's not the mower, those pieces are toast.


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## JohnM9999

Hi - new to the forum - I am moving to a new house with a really well kept short lawn, which has obviously been cut with a reel mower. I happen to have an old California trimmer - I bought it used around 1990, and used it for about 5 years, but then moved, and it has been in storage since 1995. It was tuned and sharpened once about 7 years ago, but then it didn't get used. Would this be worth restoring? Photos attached. It looks pretty rough, with paint flaking off and rust on the blades, but seems sound overall.
Thanks very much!
John


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## Gilley11

Restoration is a personal choice. Are you sentimental towards that machine or do you just want a working reel mower? Got any close up pictures of the blades? Is the engine running?


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## SGrabs33

@JohnM9999 I love the look of the older trimmers! It looks like a fun winter project to me. Parts are readily available so that's a good thing. The headquarters for trimmer is just below you in Auburn Washington.

As @Gilley11 said try and get that engine running would be a good start. Then you can do a once over of the rest of the machine to see what may need replacing. Maybe try backlapping the reel to see if you can get it cutting well. That would be a good start.

Happy to help you figure out parts if you want.


----------



## Lp_chazychaz

I wanted to check back in with this thread and take a page out of @Kamauxx book and post my first thoughts/review of my California Trimmer. I hope this post will be helpful for someone looking through this thread who hasn't reel mowed before and is curious on what a new owner thinks.

First off, thank you @SGrabs33 for helping me with questions and making it so easy to get my hands on this mower. I really appreciate all your help and the sale!

When I first got the mower, it rained for a few days so I couldn't really do much. I didn't really know where to start with using the mower. Here are some of my first impressions after using only rotary mowers on my Bermuda:
-This mower is pretty small. I felt like the handle was much lower than my previous mowers. I don't mind it at all now tho. 
-Although the mower is small, it's very heavy! It feels like a very dense machine. I'll get into this later, but I used my toro rotary mower to pick up clippings at one point and it felt like I was pushing a piece of plastic around after using the cal trimmer.

When I finally was able to use the machine, I decided to test mow my Bermuda on the tallest setting of the mower, just to get a feel for it. Turns out I under estimated how tall my Bermuda was! I didn't quite scalp it at the tallest setting, but I was cutting a lot off. I was faced with the decision to maintain a HOC that is the top setting of the mower or scalp. I decided to scalp as time is running out in the season. I have never done a mid season scalp before so I wanted to make sure I had enough time left for the Bermuda to green up again.

I guess this was the best way to get used to the machine, as I had to go over it like 20 times. When I first started scalping, I put the setting right down like 4 notches. I didn't have a HOC in mind, just wanted some room so I could raise the mower a bit if I decide I want it longer. When I went down 4 notches and tried to cut, it was definitely too much for the mower. The mower was getting caught on the long grass and clippings. Looking back on it, I am dumb as hell for trying to cut it all off at once lol. I wanted to really test out the machine though.

After struggling with that for a few passes, I decided to do a few cuts, lowering the HOC by one notch each cut. This worked way better and allowed me to use the machine more and get the hang of it. Speaking of getting the hang of it, Holy crap, this is a new experience. It's really hard for me to explain but using a reel mower is a whole new thing. You start it, operate, turn it around, all differently than a rotary. I had a really hard time operating the mower at first. I'm a small guy so I had to really get used to it for a while. A few things I played with were the throttle where you can adjust the speed, and practicing turning around.

I had read this whole thread before getting the mower so I thought I knew how to operate it. It's just way different when trying to actually use the damn thing. Well now I've gotten a lot better at handling it and I think that scalp when I first got it was pretty important for my experience.

After I finished going over the grass a million times, I used my toro rotary mower to bag as many clippings as I could. I will say, the grass catcher doesn't really do a good job at grabbing clippings. I can see the idea, but this thing just isn't going to work for me right now. Maybe after I get more practice with the machine, I will be able to make use of the grass catcher.

Now I'm waiting for it to green up. It's been about a week since I scalped and we are making good progress. I put about 1lb of N per 1k Sq ft and am watering much more than usual. Of course no rain now lol. I'm not sure if this is best practice, but some areas are greening up and I am deciding to cut the grass to keep these green areas within my new HOC (1 inch.) I have cut a few times since the scalp and it's a much more enjoyable experience to just go out there and maintain the HOC. I am assuming the scalping is a pain in the *** for everyone else? Maybe just cut a ton off. I probably went from 2-2.5 inches down to .75.

As I cut now, I'm seeing some nice stripes on my scalped Bermuda. Hopefully we see some stripes on 1 inch Bermuda when it's all green. Fingers crossed!

One thing I specifically wanted to mention here, is that I have a ditch. I was super concerned with how the Trimmer would handle my ditch. For most of my operation of the machine, I have been doing perpendicular passes to the ditch. So I go towards the street/ditch and go straight down and back up the ditch. This thing has had no problem with cutting the ditch in that pattern. I did a few passes parallel with the ditch, where I went straight down the valley of the ditch all the way down. I don't think that will work out. I think you can cut down the sides of the ditch horizontally, but that last pass at the bottom of the ditch, the mower will dig into the sides and cause some bad scalping on either side. I also did one pass where I went diagonally down the ditch and it seemed like the mower handled it okay. It was literally one pass though when the grass was scalped so maybe I missed something. I hope I can do diagonal patterns as that was my favorite with my rotary. If you have a ditch, as long as it's not a super big county ditch, I think you'll be okay cutting it with a California trimmer.

Also my lawn isn't super level. I have leveled it once with compost/soil and once with sand. Both weren't particularly successful. My lawn is still bumpy. It's not the craziest bumps, but definitely not as level as some of the guys on this forum. It's probably an average bumpy yard. The Trimmer cuts my lawn SO MUCH BETTER than my rotary. It produces such a more even blended cut. I have a grooved front roller so I've read that helps with this. When I'm done and I stand back, it looks so smooth. I'm so glad to be done with those damn circular scalping marks from my toro. Even if your lawn isn't super level yet, a reel mower is still an option! I look forward to future leveling projects where my grass is much shorter due to the reel mower.

I think that covers my first impressions of this machine pretty well. I am super happy with my purchase. I originally wanted a swardman, but couldn't get my hands on one. I really love this machine though so I'm not worried about the swardman anymore. We'll see how it goes as my grass greens back up, but for now I am pretty excited to be a California Trimmer owner! Thanks for reading this!


----------



## SGrabs33

@Lp_chazychaz thanks for taking the time to write all of that up! Glad your happy with your purchase. Looking forward to seeing pic of your 1" bermuda soon!


----------



## Brou

Great wrote up @Lp_chazychaz. I also found that the grass catcher isn't particularly useful. I've been kicking around some ideas on how to modify it to catch more clippings. As it stands a large amount of the clippings simply fly over it.

You can get a handle extension kit for $30 if the handle height starts bothering you.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/California-Trimmer-4-in-Handle-Extension-Kit-for-RL20H-Reel-Lawn-Mowers-HEK-HO/304781994


----------



## Lp_chazychaz

Kamauxx said:


> Great wrote up @Lp_chazychaz. I also found that the grass catcher isn't particularly useful. I've been kicking around some ideas on how to modify it to catch more clippings. As it stands a large amount of the clippings simply fly over it.
> 
> You can get a handle extension kit for $30 if the handle height starts bothering you.
> 
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/California-Trimmer-4-in-Handle-Extension-Kit-for-RL20H-Reel-Lawn-Mowers-HEK-HO/304781994


I'm pretty short so prob don't need the handle extension. I'm glad that exists tho. I am sure some folks will find it useful.

Let us know if you mod your grass catcher at all and if you have any success! Super interested in that. I love to bag my clippings so hopefully we can figure something out.


----------



## Gilley11

The clippings all gather to one side and the catcher quickly overflows back into the reel, but only on one side. It looks like that is just the nature of the way the helical reel cuts, gathers and disperses the grass. If there was a way to divert the clippings more evenly across the catcher, that would be the ticket.


----------



## DFWLawnNut

Lp_chazychaz said:


> I wanted to check back in with this thread and take a page out of @Kamauxx book and post my first thoughts/review of my California Trimmer. I hope this post will be helpful for someone looking through this thread who hasn't reel mowed before and is curious on what a new owner thinks.
> 
> First off, thank you @SGrabs33 for helping me with questions and making it so easy to get my hands on this mower. I really appreciate all your help and the sale!
> 
> When I first got the mower, it rained for a few days so I couldn't really do much. I didn't really know where to start with using the mower. Here are some of my first impressions after using only rotary mowers on my Bermuda:
> -This mower is pretty small. I felt like the handle was much lower than my previous mowers. I don't mind it at all now tho.
> -Although the mower is small, it's very heavy! It feels like a very dense machine. I'll get into this later, but I used my toro rotary mower to pick up clippings at one point and it felt like I was pushing a piece of plastic around after using the cal trimmer.
> 
> When I finally was able to use the machine, I decided to test mow my Bermuda on the tallest setting of the mower, just to get a feel for it. Turns out I under estimated how tall my Bermuda was! I didn't quite scalp it at the tallest setting, but I was cutting a lot off. I was faced with the decision to maintain a HOC that is the top setting of the mower or scalp. I decided to scalp as time is running out in the season. I have never done a mid season scalp before so I wanted to make sure I had enough time left for the Bermuda to green up again.
> 
> I guess this was the best way to get used to the machine, as I had to go over it like 20 times. When I first started scalping, I put the setting right down like 4 notches. I didn't have a HOC in mind, just wanted some room so I could raise the mower a bit if I decide I want it longer. When I went down 4 notches and tried to cut, it was definitely too much for the mower. The mower was getting caught on the long grass and clippings. Looking back on it, I am dumb as hell for trying to cut it all off at once lol. I wanted to really test out the machine though.
> 
> After struggling with that for a few passes, I decided to do a few cuts, lowering the HOC by one notch each cut. This worked way better and allowed me to use the machine more and get the hang of it. Speaking of getting the hang of it, Holy crap, this is a new experience. It's really hard for me to explain but using a reel mower is a whole new thing. You start it, operate, turn it around, all differently than a rotary. I had a really hard time operating the mower at first. I'm a small guy so I had to really get used to it for a while. A few things I played with were the throttle where you can adjust the speed, and practicing turning around.
> 
> I had read this whole thread before getting the mower so I thought I knew how to operate it. It's just way different when trying to actually use the damn thing. Well now I've gotten a lot better at handling it and I think that scalp when I first got it was pretty important for my experience.
> 
> After I finished going over the grass a million times, I used my toro rotary mower to bag as many clippings as I could. I will say, the grass catcher doesn't really do a good job at grabbing clippings. I can see the idea, but this thing just isn't going to work for me right now. Maybe after I get more practice with the machine, I will be able to make use of the grass catcher.
> 
> Now I'm waiting for it to green up. It's been about a week since I scalped and we are making good progress. I put about 1lb of N per 1k Sq ft and am watering much more than usual. Of course no rain now lol. I'm not sure if this is best practice, but some areas are greening up and I am deciding to cut the grass to keep these green areas within my new HOC (1 inch.) I have cut a few times since the scalp and it's a much more enjoyable experience to just go out there and maintain the HOC. I am assuming the scalping is a pain in the @ss for everyone else? Maybe just cut a ton off. I probably went from 2-2.5 inches down to .75.
> 
> As I cut now, I'm seeing some nice stripes on my scalped Bermuda. Hopefully we see some stripes on 1 inch Bermuda when it's all green. Fingers crossed!
> 
> One thing I specifically wanted to mention here, is that I have a ditch. I was super concerned with how the Trimmer would handle my ditch. For most of my operation of the machine, I have been doing perpendicular passes to the ditch. So I go towards the street/ditch and go straight down and back up the ditch. This thing has had no problem with cutting the ditch in that pattern. I did a few passes parallel with the ditch, where I went straight down the valley of the ditch all the way down. I don't think that will work out. I think you can cut down the sides of the ditch horizontally, but that last pass at the bottom of the ditch, the mower will dig into the sides and cause some bad scalping on either side. I also did one pass where I went diagonally down the ditch and it seemed like the mower handled it okay. It was literally one pass though when the grass was scalped so maybe I missed something. I hope I can do diagonal patterns as that was my favorite with my rotary. If you have a ditch, as long as it's not a super big county ditch, I think you'll be okay cutting it with a California trimmer.
> 
> Also my lawn isn't super level. I have leveled it once with compost/soil and once with sand. Both weren't particularly successful. My lawn is still bumpy. It's not the craziest bumps, but definitely not as level as some of the guys on this forum. It's probably an average bumpy yard. The Trimmer cuts my lawn SO MUCH BETTER than my rotary. It produces such a more even blended cut. I have a grooved front roller so I've read that helps with this. When I'm done and I stand back, it looks so smooth. I'm so glad to be done with those damn circular scalping marks from my toro. Even if your lawn isn't super level yet, a reel mower is still an option! I look forward to future leveling projects where my grass is much shorter due to the reel mower.
> 
> I think that covers my first impressions of this machine pretty well. I am super happy with my purchase. I originally wanted a swardman, but couldn't get my hands on one. I really love this machine though so I'm not worried about the swardman anymore. We'll see how it goes as my grass greens back up, but for now I am pretty excited to be a California Trimmer owner! Thanks for reading this!


Great review! What front roller did you get? Reel rollers? I've been debating between this and an allett. I just don't know how much I will like having only one motor setup versus the dual control on the allett. But at almost $1000 cheaper I could probably live with it.


----------



## Lp_chazychaz

@DFWLawnNut I'm not sure what front roller I got. I ordered through Triangle Reel Mowers and @SGrabs33 handled the roller. It was already installed and good to go by the time I received my mower.

I was in a similar boat as you with the decision. I will say lowering the throttle I don't really notice any impact on cut quality with the reel spinning slower. It sounds like it spins fast as hell regardless. Now that I'm getting the hang of it, I keep the throttle pretty high so it's not an issue. If you decide on a Trimmer I think you'll be impressed!


----------



## Paul M

You really won't see much cut difference at a lower engine speed since the ground speed is reduced. The reel speed is directly tied to the ground drive.


----------



## Gilley11

@SGrabs33 when letting off the clutch, as the reel spins down a squealing sound developed. Thoughts on how to eliminate this?


----------



## SGrabs33

Gilley11 said:


> @SGrabs33 when letting off the clutch, as the reel spins down a squealing sound developed. Thoughts on how to eliminate this?


You may just have a slight amount too much reel to bedknife contact. Try and lessen the contact and see if that helps. It still should cut paper.


----------



## La24

Oh hey guys, I should get my trimmer delivered tomorrow. I was wondering what kind of gas and oil do I need for the trimmer? Do I need the fuel stabilizer also? I had it on order but for some reason it not coming with my mower, I'll be receiving it later.


----------



## Paul M

La24 said:


> Oh hey guys, I should get my trimmer delivered tomorrow. I was wondering what kind of gas and oil do I need for the trimmer? Do I need the fuel stabilizer also? I had it on order but for some reason it not coming with my mower, I'll be receiving it later.


If you bought the mower new, it comes with a quart of engine oil. As far as gas, just run regular. I don't use stabilizer but I mow all year round.


----------



## Sebastian

Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum.

I have a Zoysia yard in Melbourne Beach, FL. Our neighborhood lawn company has been tearing up our yard with dull blades, mowing in pouring rain giving us ruts, bringing fungus from other yards, etc....anyways, just pulled the trigger on a California Trimmer. Excited to put it in use. Unfortunately we have to bring in some more soil to level the yard back out and also lay a pallet or 2 where the grass has been killed. After we get that done I plan on overseeding before we go into fall.

Anyone in Central Florida have any tips on using this mower on Zoysia? Thanks!


----------



## DFWLawnNut

Sebastian said:


> Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum.
> 
> I have a Zoysia yard in Melbourne Beach, FL. Our neighborhood lawn company has been tearing up our yard with dull blades, mowing in pouring rain giving us ruts, bringing fungus from other yards, etc....anyways, just pulled the trigger on a California Trimmer. Excited to put it in use. Unfortunately we have to bring in some more soil to level the yard back out and also lay a pallet or 2 where the grass has been killed. After we get that done I plan on overseeding before we go into fall.
> 
> Anyone in Central Florida have any tips on using this mower on Zoysia? Thanks!


What are you going to overseed with?


----------



## Edwardjd

Hi All,

I intend to switch from a rotary mower to powered reel mower like California Trimmer. Searching on the internet using Google, I found some difference among California trimmers (see the screenshot below): different style of Clutch Engagement Lever. Please let me know if there are any benefits (i.e. disadvantage & advantage) of those clutch levers. Can they interchangeable?

I'd very appreciate about that.


----------



## Spammage

@SGrabs33 should be along shortly to assist.


----------



## SGrabs33

Edwardjd said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I intend to switch from a rotary mower to powered reel mower like California Trimmer. Searching on the internet using Google, I found some difference among California trimmers (see the screenshot below): different style of Clutch Engagement Lever. Please let me know if there are any benefits (i.e. disadvantage & advantage) of those clutch levers. Can they interchangeable?
> 
> I'd very appreciate about that.


Thanks @Spammage

The clutch engagement on the left two is the commercial machine(20" and 25"). You throw forward that lever to engage the clutch. The clutch locks in.

The right one is our homeowner(H) series 20". To engage the clutch on this one all you have to do it squeeze the handle. The other main difference is that the reel/bedknife adjustment is much easier on the H model. There are two posts, one on each side of the reel, which can be turned with a wrench to easily adjust the reel/bedknife.

The commercial models are also a bit faster than the homeowner ones. The commercial ones are chain driven off the engine where the H models are belt driven.

It looks like you have around 2250 sq ft. I would def reccomend the H model for that small an area.

Feel free to DM me if I can help answer any other questions!


----------



## hpdrifter

Edwardjd said:


> Hi All,
> 
> I intend to switch from a rotary mower to powered reel mower like California Trimmer. Searching on the internet using Google, I found some difference among California trimmers (see the screenshot below): different style of Clutch Engagement Lever. Please let me know if there are any benefits (i.e. disadvantage & advantage) of those clutch levers. Can they interchangeable?
> 
> I'd very appreciate about that.A


I am a relative newby to reel mowers and California trimmers. All I can add is that I just bought a 20+ year old trimmer just to get started. I paid $50 too much probably but pickings were kinda slim around here $150. Guy said it had relatively new reel and bed knife(looks like lots of meat left tome) It so old the lever for the clutch is on operators right side instead of left like in the first picture(homeowners)
I back-lapped the blades and it cuts beautifully. I'm mowing 328 Tif about 1/2"- maybe 5/8" at the moment with plans to go a bit lower, not a lot tho. I have to do some leveling first tho.
Seems to me they are sturdy, long lived machines. Wonderfully simple. Anybody that has turned a wrench should be able to work on them.
One thing I have learned; when you come to the end of a cut, disengage drive wheel and don't lean on the handles, it'll want to keep going because the drive wheel will be activated by lowering to the ground. Cut a "perimeter cut", maybe 2 cuts deep and you have plenty of maneuver space to turn. Of course, I'm mowing two different levels; simulated green and fringe, just for some chipping and pitching practice so I can't over run the short section. One reason I think I will remain satisfied with this unit(although a 25" would be nice) is the easy of going between different HOCs.

As I said, I am certainly no expert, heck, just hardly a dribble but I just got one and am completely satisfied so far.
BTW.......hi to all and hope I didn't step on any toes by posting my limited knowledge.


----------



## Sebastian

DFWLawnNut said:


> Sebastian said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum.
> 
> I have a Zoysia yard in Melbourne Beach, FL. Our neighborhood lawn company has been tearing up our yard with dull blades, mowing in pouring rain giving us ruts, bringing fungus from other yards, etc....anyways, just pulled the trigger on a California Trimmer. Excited to put it in use. Unfortunately we have to bring in some more soil to level the yard back out and also lay a pallet or 2 where the grass has been killed. After we get that done I plan on overseeding before we go into fall.
> 
> Anyone in Central Florida have any tips on using this mower on Zoysia? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> What are you going to overseed with?
Click to expand...

Was planning on using Zoysia seed or Scott's turf builder. Any suggestions?


----------



## DFWLawnNut

Sebastian said:


> DFWLawnNut said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sebastian said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum.
> 
> I have a Zoysia yard in Melbourne Beach, FL. Our neighborhood lawn company has been tearing up our yard with dull blades, mowing in pouring rain giving us ruts, bringing fungus from other yards, etc....anyways, just pulled the trigger on a California Trimmer. Excited to put it in use. Unfortunately we have to bring in some more soil to level the yard back out and also lay a pallet or 2 where the grass has been killed. After we get that done I plan on overseeding before we go into fall.
> 
> Anyone in Central Florida have any tips on using this mower on Zoysia? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> What are you going to overseed with?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Was planning on using Zoysia seed or Scott's turf builder. Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

Zoysia seed takes forever to grow so its usually just sold as sod. It's hard to find it in large quantities as well.


----------



## Spammage

@Sebastian zoysia shouldn't be overseeded with more zoysia. If the growing conditions are right, it will get thick on its own. Overseeding like that is a cool season grass work around for fescue and rye grasses because they are clump/bunch grasses and don't spread by stolons and rhizomes like zoysia and bermuda do.

Keep it properly fed, watered and give it enough sunshine and zoysia will get so thick that you will question why you even want it.


----------



## DFWLawnNut

Spammage said:


> @Sebastian zoysia shouldn't be overseeded with more zoysia. If the growing conditions are right, it will get thick on its own. Overseeding like that is a cool season grass work around for fescue and rye grasses because they are clump/bunch grasses and don't spread by stolons and rhizomes like zoysia and bermuda do.
> 
> Keep it properly fed, watered and give it enough sunshine and zoysia will get so thick that you will question why you even want it.


 :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: 
Its so hard to mow my backyard lol. The Bermuda is creeping back in on me and Im tempted to let it. But that Emerald color is so hard to beat.


----------



## Sebastian

Great info! I appreciate it. Inherited this yard from previous owners, never had anything but St Augustine. Should have my new mower early next week. Any recommendations on what level to mow it?


----------



## hpdrifter

I recently acquired and old, old trimmer. I like it a lot and it seems to cut and operate just fine.
I got one question, so far. I know it's a function of the drive style, but it seems to cut quite a bit lower when you manually push it. Is there and adjustment or operational hint that might help to cut the same HOC when drive is not engaged?


----------



## El Toro

SGrabs33 said:


> I saw this while on the Cal Trimmer FB page looking around. I do not believe they were ever put into production at any point but they sure are cool.


That is slick, I may make one for my mclane


----------



## Chungus

Is there anyway to change the gearing on them? Mine seems like the travel speed to blade speed is out of whack. Barely above idle the mower goes faster than I care to go. At full engine speed you have to be running to keep up with it. It seems like it cuts better at higher RPMs. I would like to be able to have the blades going faster but be able to travel at a more leisurely pace.


----------



## hpdrifter

"Is there anyway to change the gearing on them?"

I'm not educated on the everyday workings of the California Trimmer. Just know what I have seen and for untrained eyes sometimes that can be misleading, so take all of this a with a healthy dose of salt.

You could change the sprocket gearing to the drive, but really there isn't much room to make considerable moves. You'd need a smaller drive sprocket on the main shaft and it's already pretty small. And/or a bigger sprocket on the driver roller and it's also pretty well maxed out and it'd PROBABLY take someone to machine the mounting holes. I don't know if any options are made.

Finally you might be able to change the engine to drive shaft gearing the same way, but that would also affect the cutting speed, so you'd have to do some changes there. All of that might affect the torque of the system also.

Last, the drive roller might be shaved to reduce diameter, but that is an expensive piece and might not drive too good after that; limited contact with ground.

So, from my limited knowledge, I'd say; I doubt it.

People here know a lot more than I do and they may know a solution.

I'm gonna be on the look out for a response, so I can learn something also.
It may be something so simple, I'm blinded by it.
Oh, btw; this only applies to the H model. If you have a commercial model...................never mind. I don't know anything about them, even less than the homeowners...


----------



## Lp_chazychaz

When I first got the Trimmer I said the grass catcher didn't work too well, but after using it for a while I actually have grown to enjoy the catcher more than I thought. I was cutting a lot off at first so it was pretty annoying. Lately I'm following the 1/3 rule so my clippings are very fine and the catcher scoops up a ton of them. It makes the lawn look more clean and the weight of it contributes to more defined stripes in my opinion


----------



## SGrabs33

@Lp_chazychaz man that's looking great! Handling your ditch really well too :thumbup:


----------



## SGrabs33

hpdrifter said:


> I recently acquired and old, old trimmer. I like it a lot and it seems to cut and operate just fine.
> I got one question, so far. I know it's a function of the drive style, but it seems to cut quite a bit lower when you manually push it. Is there and adjustment or operational hint that might help to cut the same HOC when drive is not engaged?


I would check all of the connections with the roller/casters. My guess is that when you are manually pushing it makes the front sit lower and cut lower. There is usually a little wiggle in the change of height adjustment so that it can be easily adjusted.


----------



## Lp_chazychaz

@SGrabs33 thanks man!


----------



## rhart

I have been mowing about 1/2 of my 17,000 sq feet this year with a 20" sunjoe manual reel mower at 1.5". My lawn looks really good and I love the cut, but I am leaning towards a California Trimmer. I've been looking for the past few weeks for something used. I haven't found much of anything remotely close to me here in Nebraska. Does anyone know of anything slightly used around my area, or would I be better off just buying new and having it shipped? Thanks for your time.


----------



## SGrabs33

rhart said:


> I have been mowing about 1/2 of my 17,000 sq feet this year with a 20" sunjoe manual reel mower at 1.5". My lawn looks really good and I love the cut, but I am leaning towards a California Trimmer. I've been looking for the past few weeks for something used. I haven't found much of anything remotely close to me here in Nebraska. Does anyone know of anything slightly used around my area, or would I be better off just buying new and having it shipped? Thanks for your time.


Honestly I think your the first person that I remember being on TLF from Nebraska so I think your used options are going to be few and far between unfortunately.

The best used spots to check out are usually craigslist or Facebook.


----------



## rhart

@SGrabs33 thanks for the reply. I have been checking both of those regularly and haven't found anything. I am not opposed to driving a bit if that's what it takes. I guess I will have to wait and see. Thanks again.


----------



## Nick2879

Hi guys. Just wanted to join in and say hi. I received my new 20" with a Honda engine this weekend. Kept Looking for a used greens mower but like others have said slim pickings in the Raleigh area. And when I received a 15% off coupon for Home Depot i figured it was a sign. Scalped my yard from 1.75" to 7/8" this weekend. Hoping it doesn't take too long to bounce back.


----------



## SGrabs33

Nick2879 said:


> Hi guys. Just wanted to join in and say hi. I received my new 20" with a Honda engine this weekend. Kept Looking for a used greens mower but like others have said slim pickings in the Raleigh area. And when I received a 15% off coupon for Home Depot i figured it was a sign. Scalped my yard from 1.75" to 7/8" this weekend. Hoping it doesn't take too long to bounce back.


Looking good and welcome to the forum. Hi from Apex!


----------



## Gilley11

Blade speed and travel speed are directly related, there is only one clutch. If you want to go slower, don't squeeze the clutch handle as much.


----------



## Gilley11

I'm s still loving my CT. Cuts awesome and is easy to work on. Happy costumer!


----------



## Brou

@SGrabs33 do you provide post-season maintenance for Cali Trimmers? If not, do you know anyone in the area that does? (Blade sharpening, and such)


----------



## SGrabs33

Kamauxx said:


> @SGrabs33 do you provide post-season maintenance for Cali Trimmers? If not, do you know anyone in the area that does? (Blade sharpening, and such)


I sure do!


----------



## Brou

SGrabs33 said:


> Kamauxx said:
> 
> 
> 
> @SGrabs33 do you provide post-season maintenance for Cali Trimmers? If not, do you know anyone in the area that does? (Blade sharpening, and such)
> 
> 
> 
> I sure do!
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks!


----------



## ENC_Lawn

@SGrabs33 or others...I did a hard scalp today.

Went as low as I could this time of year with my Bermuda scalp.

About half way through the scalp the Trimmer started bogging down and reel would stop turning from too many clippings.

I would back up give the reel some space to let the clippings drop free and start back cutting again...but I started noticing a burnt smell...almost like burnt rubber.

Any idea what this could be?

As far As I know everything on the Trimmer is chain driven?


----------



## SGrabs33

ENC_Lawn said:


> @SGrabs33 or others...I did a hard scalp today.
> 
> Went as low as I could this time of year with my Bermuda scalp.
> 
> About half way through the scalp the Trimmer started bogging down and reel would stop turning from too many clippings.
> 
> I would back up give the reel some space to let the clippings drop free and start back cutting again...but I started noticing a burnt smell...almost like burnt rubber.
> 
> Any idea what this could be?
> 
> As far As I know everything on the Trimmer is chain driven?


If the reel isn't spinning and your still holding the clutch in your probably burning up the belt. That would be the rubber smell. I've got replacements if you need it.

Sounds like you were just taking a little too much off at once.

How's it all look?


----------



## Gilley11

Sounds like you'd be better off taking it down in two passes instead of 1.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

SGrabs33 said:


> ENC_Lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> @SGrabs33 or others...I did a hard scalp today.
> 
> Went as low as I could this time of year with my Bermuda scalp.
> 
> About half way through the scalp the Trimmer started bogging down and reel would stop turning from too many clippings.
> 
> I would back up give the reel some space to let the clippings drop free and start back cutting again...but I started noticing a burnt smell...almost like burnt rubber.
> 
> Any idea what this could be?
> 
> As far As I know everything on the Trimmer is chain driven?
> 
> 
> 
> If the reel isn't spinning and your still holding the clutch in your probably burning up the belt. That would be the rubber smell. I've got replacements if you need it.
> 
> Sounds like you were just taking a little too much off at once.
> 
> How's it all look?
Click to expand...

@SGrabs33 lawn looks terrible...lol. I tried to scalp to the dirt like I did this spring when I went to 2nd notch from the bottom on the trimmer...but I could only go to the 3rd notch today.

Hopefully the belt is ok. I want know until I cut the lawn next time during a normal mow I guess?


----------



## ENC_Lawn

Gilley11 said:


> Sounds like you'd be better off taking it down in two passes instead of 1.


@Gilley11 yelp...you are correct.

Lesson learned....I was trying to rush.

Truth to be told I am over Bermuda and reel mowing this year. :lol:


----------



## SGrabs33

@ENC_Lawn yeah. Taking too much off can be hard on that belt. Good thing tho it that only really the belt get toasted and it's easy to swap out.

Daily late in the year to scalp. You going to level any or was it just getting a little too tall? Little extra water and fert?


----------



## ENC_Lawn

SGrabs33 said:


> @ENC_Lawn yeah. Taking too much off can be hard on that belt. Good thing tho it that only really the belt get toasted and it's easy to swap out.
> 
> Daily late in the year to scalp. You going to level any or was it just getting a little too tall? Little extra water and fert?


I had let it get out of hand.

I have been cutting with the rotary and it the lawn has gotten too puffy and started to scalp really bad.

So I rolled the dice and just went with it. :shock:


----------



## Steely

Is it possible to take the HOC down lower than 3/8"? I would like to be able to mow my entire lawn at .75", but also be able to quickly switch the HOC down low for a putting green.


----------



## SGrabs33

Steely said:


> Is it possible to take the HOC down lower than 3/8"? I would like to be able to mow my entire lawn at .75", but also be able to quickly switch the HOC down low for a putting green.


3/8 is a low as it will go. Frame will drag at that height unless you are perfectly level.


----------



## Sebastian

Scalped it, kind of wussed out in some spots where I lifted it up a little. Scared of killing it off. Hopefully it bounces back. I've taken it down 2x since I got my CT 3 weeks ago. Now its less than half as long as it was. Killed off some Bermuda that was taking over a section as well. So far I love the CT. The grass catcher sure does fill up quickly when you are taking it down.


----------



## SGrabs33

Sebastian said:


> Scalped it, kind of wussed out in some spots where I lifted it up a little. Scared of killing it off. Hopefully it bounces back. I've taken it down 2x since I got my CT 3 weeks ago. Now its less than half as long as it was. Killed off some Bermuda that was taking over a section as well. So far I love the CT. The grass catcher sure does fill up quickly when you are taking it down.


Nice work. Looking good. Yeah the father does fill up quickly for sure when your scalping.


----------



## DFWdude

Does anyone use the 25" commercial model for residential use? I'd like to because my yard is rather large, but the MFG thinks it's overkill for me?

Thanks


----------



## SGrabs33

DFWdude said:


> Does anyone use the 25" commercial model for residential use? I'd like to because my yard is rather large, but the MFG thinks it's overkill for me?
> 
> Thanks


Sure. I use mine a descent amount. How many sq ft were you going to cut with the reel? All 15k?


----------



## DFWdude

Yes, all 15k. Seem reasonable?


----------



## SGrabs33

DFWdude said:


> Yes, all 15k. Seem reasonable?


As long as you ok with the slightly faster ground speed of the commercial model. And know that the clutch operation is all or nothing, as in it locks in similar to a greens mower. You should be good.

15k would be a lot to do with a 20" model


----------



## DFWdude

RE the clutch, so its either full speed forward w blade spinning or full stop? I take it that the non commercial allows clutch slipping to slow things down as needed?

Thanks for the insight


----------



## SGrabs33

DFWdude said:


> RE the clutch, so its either full speed forward w blade spinning or full stop? I take it that the non commercial allows clutch slipping to slow things down as needed?
> 
> Thanks for the insight


Yes but you can slightly adjust the speed by throttling down. Also you can lift the rear roller and still engage the clutch and cut with the rear roller in the up position.

Only homeowner reel that you can slip is the trucut.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

DFWdude said:


> Does anyone use the 25" commercial model for residential use? I'd like to because my yard is rather large, but the MFG thinks it's overkill for me?
> 
> Thanks


I do. It is built like a tank. As mentioned you can use the throttle to slow down instead slipping clutch like a homeowner model. At times I wish it were faster. I cut about 9 M sq.ft. with it in about 45 minutes when I double cut.


----------



## Steely

Is there anyway to tell what year this is by the pictures?

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1669095736605001/

Any thoughts on offering $100?


----------



## Bermuda_Newbie

$100 seems like a good deal to me if it runs. They go for around $250-$300 here. Find out how the blade looks and when the last time it was serviced. You want to know how much life is left on the reel. I just had to replace my bedknife and the whole apparatus but mine is 35 years old.


----------



## LBK_419

Steely said:


> Is there anyway to tell what year this is by the pictures?
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1669095736605001/
> 
> Any thoughts on offering $100?


That's a good deal. I would scoop it up!
I just bought one that almost looks identical and mine was made in 1985. Same engine/stickers/etc.
I'm working on my third restoration. If you buy it and need any help with it whatsoever- I'd be glad to help.


----------



## Steely

Thanks for the input @LBK_419 i think I will make an offer. Appreciate the offer for help too. Seems like it would be a fun winter project to clean up. It would be my first reel mower.


----------



## Steely

I haven't seen the mower in person yet, but he said he would take $100. He does small engine work and said he rebuilt the carb and it runs and cuts good. He also said there is no play in any shaft or bearing so that sounds promising. The big question is what is the condition of the reel and bed knife.

Here are some pics.


----------



## Spammage

@Steely it looks like it could be worth $100. The reel appears to have enough life to be ground, but unfortunately looks like it needs to be ground. The 5 blade reel is going to be fine for 1/2" cuts or higher typical of home lawns. You will want a front roller, so factor in another $200 there. The nice thing about the CalTrimmer is that it's built like a tank. Make sure you hear it run properly and make sure there isn't any play or weird noise in the reel bearings.


----------



## Steely

I was able to get the Mower for $100. The motor runs great and I did try cutting with it even though the reel is really dull. It cut better than expected.

I'm very happy with it and will hopefully have some fun working on it this winter.

I did quickly degrease it and it already looks much better.


----------



## LBK_419

Steely said:


> I was able to get the Mower for $100. The motor runs great and I did try cutting with it even though the reel is really dull. It cut better than expected.
> 
> I'm very happy with it and will hopefully have some fun working on it this winter.
> 
> I did quickly degrease it and it already looks much better.


@Steely 
Looks good! Congrats!


----------



## Steely

I will eventually pick up a front roller for my Cal Trimmer and was wondering if there are better quality rollers than others? Reel rollers seem to have the best price right now, but what about the ones that Home Depot or Zampree?

Also, do they all come with the bracket?

Dan


----------



## ocean-front

I am waiting on a grooved roller from Reel Rollers to arrive this coming week.They come with everything your need to plug and play.They also have smooth rollers and back lapping kits for Calif Trimmers.Great customer service!!


----------



## Steely

Thanks @ocean-front


----------



## ENC_Lawn

@SGrabs33 I think we discussed this a while back but just to revisit...I was reading the thread about the toro 1600 bed knife.

@MasterMech and others who are very knowledgeable where commenting on the size of the bed knife and etc.

@SGrabs33 Is there anyway with the California Trimmer we could get a lower cut by swapping out a bed knife to a slimmer bed knife or is that just not possible?

I don't want to go the greens mower route or swardsman route yet...and I was thinking is there a way to make the Trimmer cut lower without it hitting dirt earlier than a greens mower would?

Just curious if there any options...


----------



## SGrabs33

ENC_Lawn said:


> @SGrabs33 I think we discussed this a while back but just to revisit...I was reading the thread about the toro 1600 bed knife.
> 
> @MasterMech and others who are very knowledgeable where commenting on the size of the bed knife and etc.
> 
> @SGrabs33 Is there anyway with the California Trimmer we could get a lower cut by swapping out a bed knife to a slimmer bed knife or is that just not possible?
> 
> I don't want to go the greens mower route or swardsman route yet...and I was thinking is there a way to make the Trimmer cut lower without it hitting dirt earlier than a greens mower would?
> 
> Just curious if there any options...


Interesting question.

Unfortunately I think the answer is no unless you grind down part of the frame. If you put the mower on a flat surface and lower it down you notice that it's the frame that hits the ground before the bedknife.

Can you check your to make sure that's the case. If not, happy to dig further.


----------



## ENC_Lawn

SGrabs33 said:


> ENC_Lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> @SGrabs33 I think we discussed this a while back but just to revisit...I was reading the thread about the toro 1600 bed knife.
> 
> @MasterMech and others who are very knowledgeable where commenting on the size of the bed knife and etc.
> 
> @SGrabs33 Is there anyway with the California Trimmer we could get a lower cut by swapping out a bed knife to a slimmer bed knife or is that just not possible?
> 
> I don't want to go the greens mower route or swardsman route yet...and I was thinking is there a way to make the Trimmer cut lower without it hitting dirt earlier than a greens mower would?
> 
> Just curious if there any options...
> 
> 
> 
> Interesting question.
> 
> Unfortunately I think the answer is no unless you grind down part of the frame. If you put the mower on a flat surface and lower it down you notice that it's the frame that hits the ground before the bedknife.
> 
> Can you check your to make sure that's the case. If not, happy to dig further.
Click to expand...

I think you are exactly right now that I think of it! :thumbup:

I have noticed this changing the height between HOC adjustment notches on my concrete driveway.


----------



## thatguyhileman

Got a Trimmer last year with the Honda mower brand new. Used it late in the season, probably last time around October. Got it out today and it's not wanting to stay running. I had issues last year the few times I used it with fuel. The only way it would run correctly is using TruFuel. I was able to get it going using Non-Ethanol gas from QT, which is the current gas in it. I didn't use any stabilizers or anything over the winter as I have never done that with anything I have. It'll run about 1-2 minutes, kind of rough, then die. What a minute or two, start it back up and the same thing. Are these engines really that sensitive to fuel? My dad has a pressure washer with a Honda that he rarely uses and never does any stabilizing and it cranks first pull every time and runs fine. Could there be more wrong with mine? Thanks for any help in advance.


----------



## Dave Z

Does anyone have any experience converting a high cut model to standard configuration. Raising the wheels and axle to top set of holes . Does the chain need to be shortened and any other modifications.


----------



## SGrabs33

Dave Z said:


> Does anyone have any experience converting a high cut model to standard configuration. Raising the wheels and axle to top set of holes . Does the chain need to be shortened and any other modifications.


This should cover it. Much harder to go the other way, H to HC.

Move the rear axle position in the frame
Move the drive roller assembly mounting position (disconnecting / reconnecting the springs)
Replace the axle drive chain
Replace the driver roller lift chain
Add a link to the reel drive chain


----------



## Dave Z

Thanks wealth of knowledge on this forum is so helpful. . Lowest hoc on high cut model is 3/4in. With the front roller in the middle axle position the deck angle seems extreme. Will this affect the quality of cut? Thinking about converting from high cut. Definitely doable


----------



## SGrabs33

Dave Z said:


> Thanks wealth of knowledge on this forum is so helpful. . Lowest hoc on high cut model is 3/4in. With the front roller in the middle axle position the deck angle seems extreme. Will this affect the quality of cut? Thinking about converting from high cut. Definitely doable


Lowest in the high cut is 5/8. If you planning on maintaining around 1" or lower I would def consider the switch. Though I don't think it affects the cut too much with the deck angle.


----------



## DFWdude

Just got my cali trimmer and was doing some cutting with it today. A few minutes into cutting it started making a banging noise. Any idea what it is? Only happens when the reel is spinning med speed or above. Doesnt seem to be one noise per revolution.

If i open the clearance between reel and bedknife, it goes away. But then it wont cut paper.

I have a vid, but cant post it here.


----------



## Slim 1938

Do those of you that purchased a new 20 wish you would've bought the 25 instead? I'm debating a commercial 25 or homeowners 20. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks


----------



## SGrabs33

Slim 1938 said:


> Do those of you that purchased a new 20 wish you would've bought the 25 instead? I'm debating a commercial 25 or homeowners 20. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks


10k sq ft is quite a bit. Just depends on how long you want to be out cutting your grass. The 25" is less maneuverable than the 20". The clutch and reel/bedknife is a bit more complex and harder than the 20" to adjust.


----------



## SCGrassMan

Slim 1938 said:


> Do those of you that purchased a new 20 wish you would've bought the 25 instead? I'm debating a commercial 25 or homeowners 20. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks


If the only difference is reel size, 20" is more maneuverable. When you say commercial vs homeowner, if there are other differences besides reel size, go with the commercial model. I had a Toro GM1600 which I liked quite a bit, but I have a small yard with lots of turns and it was a bit unwieldy. I would probably go with the John Deere or the GM1000 with the smaller reel if I had to do it again. Hope that helps!


----------



## Slim 1938

Thanks @SGrabs33 . Most of my lawn is fairly uniform so cuts will be long straight runs. My side ditch ill keep mowing with my tractor since it's a county ditch that has rocks in it.


----------



## SGrabs33

Slim 1938 said:


> Thanks @SGrabs33 . Most of my lawn is fairly uniform so cuts will be long straight runs. My side ditch ill keep mowing with my tractor since it's a county ditch that has rocks in it.


Yep. Long straight runs is what the 25" is great at. The clutch in that model is all or nothing, very similar to a greens mower. That makes it good for larger uniform lawns.


----------



## Slim 1938

Well I pulled the trigger on the commercial 25. It's a beauty for sure. It'll take a little to get used to but cuts way nicer than my Mclane.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Slim 1938 haha. That was quick. Congrats!


----------



## Slim 1938

🤣🤣@SGrabs33, I pretty much had my mind set on it but wanted to make sure I wouldn't regret getting the bigger bulky machine. I mowed my front yard and man I like it. I was hoping it wasn't too fast but it easily throttles down without losing reel speed. Thanks for your help.


----------



## gardencityboy

Slim 1938 said:


> Well I pulled the trigger on the commercial 25. It's a beauty for sure. It'll take a little to get used to but cuts way nicer than my Mclane.


Congratulations !!! How easy is it to adjust the bedknife to reel adjustment on the commercial mower. I think it is different from the 20" ones and from you pictures I dont see any adjustment screws.


----------



## SGrabs33

gardencityboy said:


> Slim 1938 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well I pulled the trigger on the commercial 25. It's a beauty for sure. It'll take a little to get used to but cuts way nicer than my Mclane.
> 
> 
> 
> Congratulations !!! How easy is it to adjust the bedknife to reel adjustment on the commercial mower. I think it is different from the 20" ones and from you pictures I dont see any adjustment screws.
Click to expand...

Yep it's not quite as easy. You have to loosen 3 bolts on each cam holding the reel. Then use a hammer and punch to adjust.


----------



## gardencityboy

SGrabs33 said:


> gardencityboy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim 1938 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well I pulled the trigger on the commercial 25. It's a beauty for sure. It'll take a little to get used to but cuts way nicer than my Mclane.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep it's not quite as easy. You have to loosen 3 bolts on each cam holding the reel. Then use a hammer and punch to adjust.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok thanks lot
Click to expand...


----------



## Slim 1938

Thanks @gardencityboy . It does look more difficult to set bedknife to reel but good thing https://www.howardslawnequipment.com is close by so I'll probably haul it to them if any adjustments is needed till I figure it out.


----------



## Steely

I just finished restoring an older (1985) home owner model this winter and now that I'm starting to use it this spring, it seems to be throwing chains. I believe I can resolve the roller chain issue by ordering the roller brackets with the set screws as mine do not have the set screws. I think this will keep the U brackets from sliding on the yoke and thus causing the roller chain to come off.

But, just as I was finishing my mow, the engine chain came off. It has a ton of slack (more than the recommended 1/4") and I can't see a way to eliminate that. I tried removing a link, but that will not work because of how the links are inset or outset making it impossible to remove just 1 link.

Any suggestion to eliminate the slack in this chain?


----------



## SGrabs33

Steely said:


> I just finished restoring an older (1985) home owner model this winter and now that I'm starting to use it this spring, it seems to be throwing chains. I believe I can resolve the roller chain issue by ordering the roller brackets with the set screws as mine do not have the set screws. I think this will keep the U brackets from sliding on the yoke and thus causing the roller chain to come off.
> 
> But, just as I was finishing my mow, the engine chain came off. It has a ton of slack (more than the recommended 1/4") and I can't see a way to eliminate that. I tried removing a link, but that will not work because of how the links are inset or outset making it impossible to remove just 1 link.
> 
> Any suggestion to eliminate the slack in this chain?


Can you show me what you mean by the chain being inset or outset? All the chains I've seen the trimmers use have removable links.

Other option would be putting some spacers under the engine possibly.


----------



## Steely

Thanks for the reply @SGrabs33. Here is a picture of the chain and link. I would like to remove the link facing up. It just seems like removing 1 link will throw off the ability to connect them. I'll be trying to connect 2 wider links. I'm not sure it I'm making sense.



Interesting idea about adding spacers on the engine, I may have to stew over that idea.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Steely ah, got you. Yeah you would need to remove back to the arrow. You could do that and buy a 1/2 link to add back. That's would make it a bit shorter.


----------



## Steely

I put the chain back on and then raised the engine pulley/bearing housing with 2 washers which removed some slack. I'll see how this works after some testing this week.


----------



## SGrabs33

Steely said:


> I put the chain back on and then raised the engine pulley/bearing housing with 2 washers which removed some slack. I'll see how this works after some testing this week.


Great. Let me know how it works.


----------



## Gergrass

Hey Everyone!
Is it a good idea to use rubber grease zerk caps on the reel blade shaft grease fittings?


----------



## SGrabs33

Gergrass said:


> Hey Everyone!
> Is it a good idea to use rubber grease zerk caps on the reel blade shaft grease fittings?


Never seen those before but I can't imagine they would hurt!


----------



## bulletiii

Just bought a new Homeowner 20" Trimmer last week. On the second mow, I started having some problems with the clutch staying engaged even though I had it disengaged. A few moments later the reel wouldn't move at all. Took off the belt drum and the belt had snapped in two. Bought a new belt and put it on, and now the reel and wheel stay engaged even with the clutch disengaged. Any ideas before I bring it in??? Thanks, guys!


----------



## SGrabs33

bulletiii said:


> Just bought a new Homeowner 20" Trimmer last week. On the second mow, I started having some problems with the clutch staying engaged even though I had it disengaged. A few moments later the reel wouldn't move at all. Took off the belt drum and the belt had snapped in two. Bought a new belt and put it on, and now the reel and wheel stay engaged even with the clutch disengaged. Any ideas before I bring it in??? Thanks, guys!


Sometimes it takes a little wear on that belt to get it to seat properly. Once it does that it shouldn't be engaged when you have the clutch disengaged. You can also look in the manual on how to adjust the clutch slightly, it sounds a little too tight which makes sense as there was probably too much ware on them that caused the belt to snap.


----------



## Steely

SGrabs33 said:


> Steely said:
> 
> 
> 
> I put the chain back on and then raised the engine pulley/bearing housing with 2 washers which removed some slack. I'll see how this works after some testing this week.
> 
> 
> 
> Great. Let me know how it works.
Click to expand...

Adding the washers under the pulley/bearing housing seemed to help a bit. Mowed tonight and things were working great.


----------



## SGrabs33

Steely said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Steely said:
> 
> 
> 
> I put the chain back on and then raised the engine pulley/bearing housing with 2 washers which removed some slack. I'll see how this works after some testing this week.
> 
> 
> 
> Great. Let me know how it works.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Adding the washers under the pulley/bearing housing seemed to help a bit. Mowed tonight and things were working great.
Click to expand...

Glad to hear it!


----------



## Pixelmaestro

Picked up my California Trimmer from @SGrabs33 on Friday. Cut with my rotary as low as it could go to pick up any debris. Sourced a new 2-gallon gas can and filled it with non-Ethynol gas for my new mower. Very happy with the results and the lawn already looks better than my two neighbors who have been using push reel mowers for the last two years. I gave them both an up-and-close demonstration. I will focus on getting the lawn and soil as healthy as possible this year.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Pixelmaestro got the stripes going already! It was great working with you. Your going to have that lawn looking great I'm not time!


----------



## Steely

Did you get a front roller? I can't see in the pictures.


----------



## Pixelmaestro

Steely said:


> Did you get a front roller? I can't see in the pictures.


Yes, I have the smooth roller. I am hoping to one day graduate on a grooved front roller. My Lawn has some uneven parts, I had a sand/soil mixture that was applied last year.


----------



## ocean-front

Get one while they have them in stock,its worth it!


----------



## wcampbell42

I experienced some serious wobble out of my back axle yesterday. So much so that the drum drive chain slipped.

Has anyone experienced this before, and if so what can I do to correct it?


----------



## SGrabs33

wcampbell42 said:


> I experienced some serious wobble out of my back axle yesterday. So much so that the drum drive chain slipped.
> 
> Has anyone experienced this before, and if so what can I do to correct it?


Check the bolts for the Realer axle. Two on each side of the machine.



Also check these bolts on the rear drive roller. Two on each side. These are actually used to adjust/loosen to take slack out of that chain that drives the rear drive roller.


----------



## Steely

I had a similar problem with my older Trimmer which doesn't have the set screws that @SGrabs33 shows in his pictures of the U-bolt brackets. I drilled/tapped holes with set screws which has stopped the bracket from sliding forward and thus causing the roller chain to be thrown.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Steely thats a great idea!


----------



## Gergrass

I noticed some oil marks on the lawn after my first cut. I also noticed some oil marks after my 2nd cut. Is this normal?


----------



## SGrabs33

Gergrass said:


> I noticed some oil marks on the lawn after my first cut. I also noticed some oil marks after my 2nd cut. Is this normal?


Nope. Check the drain plug on the engine.


----------



## ellsbebc

Looking to dip my toes into reel mowing a portion of my lawn (around 5k sqft). This mower is listed for $200 and know I will need to invest just as much in a front roller. I'm waiting for more pics from the seller. Thoughts on the condition of the reel and bed knife?


----------



## SGrabs33

@ellsbebc looks like a good deal to me. That honda is almost worth the $200.

Reel looks like it has a good amount of life left. I'd guess it cuts great after a backlap.


----------



## ellsbebc

SGrabs33 said:


> @ellsbebc looks like a good deal to me. That honda is almost worth the $200.
> 
> Reel looks like it has a good amount of life left. I'd guess it cuts great after a backlap.


That's encouraging. Thanks @SGrabs33.


----------



## ellsbebc

Cal Trimmer 20" from the previous page was acquired. Prior owner used it only once and been garage kept ever since. He even changed the carb, fuel, and oil beforehand.

Will order a grooved roller and backlap kit from reel rollers so I can start laying some stripes!

Below is the serial # of the unit. I couldn't find the year of manufacturing with a quick Google search.


----------



## SGrabs33

@ellsbebc year of manufacturing isn't needed to find parts really. Just have to know if it's belt or chain driven off the engine. Also, does it have reel/bedknife adjustment posts on the top of each side of the unit.


----------



## Ortiz

Hello Everyone,

I am very close to making a Cal Trimmer purchase. I have a question for everyone that has been mowing for awhile. Quick background, I maintain a small section of yard as at .5 inch with a very old Atco Short Cut push mower. It is a mix if PRG, and Colonial Bent. I love the look of that part of the yard and want to redo the rest of the property in PRG. As much as I rake and prep the grass before mowing I run into the occasional twig, or mulch chip that stops my reel. Not a big deal, as soon as I notice it, I stop and clear it. I tried out a Sun Joe electric reel mower(insert joke here), and bent the reel within 10 minutes. Like seriously bent. 1 piece of mulch and I had to gently hammer the reel back into shape until the second piece. My question is how would a powered reel do under similar circumstances. I am thinking the reel in a Cal Trimmer is much more robust, and there would be no damage. Just wondering if anyone has any insights, or similar experiences. Thanks


----------



## Theycallmemrr

Ortiz said:


> Hello Everyone,
> 
> I am very close to making a Cal Trimmer purchase. I have a question for everyone that has been mowing for awhile. Quick background, I maintain a small section of yard as at .5 inch with a very old Atco Short Cut push mower. It is a mix if PRG, and Colonial Bent. I love the look of that part of the yard and want to redo the rest of the property in PRG. As much as I rake and prep the grass before mowing I run into the occasional twig, or mulch chip that stops my reel. Not a big deal, as soon as I notice it, I stop and clear it. I tried out a Sun Joe electric reel mower(insert joke here), and bent the reel within 10 minutes. Like seriously bent. 1 piece of mulch and I had to gently hammer the reel back into shape until the second piece. My question is how would a powered reel do under similar circumstances. I am thinking the reel in a Cal Trimmer is much more robust, and there would be no damage. Just wondering if anyone has any insights, or similar experiences. Thanks


@Ortiz 
I have mowed over some smaller pieces of mulch with my Trimmer and it has not damaged it. That being said I try not to mow over mulch as getting the reel ground is an expensive hassle.


----------



## Steely

I have a heavy wooded backyard and have hit some smaller twigs with my trimmer and it doesn't flinch. However, I do have washed river rock beds that I am super paranoid about hitting one of those stones. I have been leaf blowing a lot more to prevent that sort of incident as I know the stone would do some major damage.


----------



## ellsbebc

SGrabs33 said:


> @ellsbebc year of manufacturing isn't needed to find parts really. Just have to know if it's belt or chain driven off the engine. Also, does it have reel/bedknife adjustment posts on the top of each side of the unit.


Was out of town the past week and just checked the machine. Yes, vertical bedknife adjustment posts on each side and chain driven.


----------



## SGrabs33

ellsbebc said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @ellsbebc year of manufacturing isn't needed to find parts really. Just have to know if it's belt or chain driven off the engine. Also, does it have reel/bedknife adjustment posts on the top of each side of the unit.
> 
> 
> 
> Was out of town the past week and just checked the machine. Yes, vertical bedknife adjustment posts on each side and chain driven.
Click to expand...

Looks like a nice older homeowner model.


----------



## Gergrass

Hi everyone, Is STA-LUBE EXTREME PRESSURE MOLY GRAPH multi-purpose grease a good grease to use? its time to grease the reel blade shaft.


----------



## feinhorn

Pixelmaestro said:


> Picked up my California Trimmer from @SGrabs33 on Friday. Cut with my rotary as low as it could go to pick up any debris. Sourced a new 2-gallon gas can and filled it with non-Ethynol gas for my new mower. Very happy with the results and the lawn already looks better than my two neighbors who have been using push reel mowers for the last two years. I gave them both an up-and-close demonstration. I will focus on getting the lawn and soil as healthy as possible this year.


@Pixelmaestro Do you recall what cut height this was? I also pickup up a mower from Scott but haven't used it for the initial cut yet.


----------



## feinhorn

WillyT said:


> This is what I measured with the roller attachment.
> 
> Middle slot
> 1 - 1 1/4 inch
> 2- 1 1/8 inch
> 3- 1 inch
> 4- 3/4 inch
> 5- 5/8 inch
> 6- 1/2 inch
> 7- 3/8 inch
> 8- n/a


Does everyone concur with these measurements with the front roller installed in middle slot? I am currently cutting at slot 4 and wonder if its 1" or 3/4".


----------



## Slim 1938

I'm wondering the same. Mine is the 25" commercial and I'm told it's in 1/8 inch increments. I'm on the 2nd from bottom notch.


----------



## SGrabs33

Slim 1938 said:


> I'm wondering the same. Mine is the 25" commercial and I'm told it's in 1/8 inch increments. I'm on the 2nd from bottom notch.


----------



## SGrabs33

feinhorn said:


> WillyT said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is what I measured with the roller attachment.
> 
> Middle slot
> 1 - 1 1/4 inch
> 2- 1 1/8 inch
> 3- 1 inch
> 4- 3/4 inch
> 5- 5/8 inch
> 6- 1/2 inch
> 7- 3/8 inch
> 8- n/a
> 
> 
> 
> Does everyone concur with these measurements with the front roller installed in middle slot? I am currently cutting at slot 4 and wonder if its 1" or 3/4".
Click to expand...


----------



## Slim 1938

@SGrabs33 thanks. I'm on 7 and it mows great with no issues but I do have a smooth front roller. How much does that change things?


----------



## SGrabs33

Slim 1938 said:


> @SGrabs33 thanks. I'm on 7 and it mows great with no issues but I do have a smooth front roller. How much does that change things?


Maybe like 1/8 or an inch possibly. Depends on how tight bolts are and a few other things.


----------



## Slim 1938

Thanks @SGrabs33 . My yards still filling but this is today's mow on #7 position.


----------



## Pixelmaestro

I have been alternating between 4 and 5. The backyard has some washboarding that might cause scalping so I am playing it safe. I picked up the backlap kit. I need to stop by hardware store to get 1/2 adapter for the my drill. Also planning on a soil test to get a base level on the health of the soil.


----------



## ryless01

I am looking to replace a reel and bedknife and more to my old california trimmer homeowners addition. I can't seem to find any videos on how to take it apart to replace bearings and reel. Please help. Thank you in advance.


----------



## Prospect

I saw your post about bending your reel yesterday, must have hit something good. Ouch
Have you looked at the parts blow up on California Trimmers site? That should point you in the right direction
Try finding a donor machine for a reel. There is one on Craigslist in my neck of the woods for $50
Sorry about your mower. Good luck


----------



## Mightyquinn

ryless01 said:


> I am looking to replace a reel and bedknife and more to my old california trimmer homeowners addition. I can't seem to find any videos on how to take it apart to replace bearings and reel. Please help. Thank you in advance.


@ryless01 I moved your question over to this thread as you should get a quicker response here :thumbup:


----------



## GrassAndWater12

When I was mowing yesterday I could hear the chain slapping the cover whenever I would stop the reel to make a turn. When I took the cover off it has definitely slapped it a few times but nothing terrible. Do I need to adjust my cover or does my chain have to much play? If so can I tighten it or just take a link out? 20" Homeowner. Thanks


----------



## Spammage

@GrassAndWater12 the chain looks too loose. A chain should have 3/8"-1/2" of deflection.


----------



## Slim 1938

Anyone know what these bolts on the reel with washers are for? I figured something to do with balance but just a guess.


----------



## GrassAndWater12

Spammage said:


> @GrassAndWater12 the chain looks too loose. A chain should have 3/8"-1/2" of deflection.


Yeah my thoughts exactly. Does anyone know how to tighten it or just take a link out?


----------



## SGrabs33

GrassAndWater12 said:


> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> 
> @GrassAndWater12 the chain looks too loose. A chain should have 3/8"-1/2" of deflection.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah my thoughts exactly. Does anyone know how to tighten it or just take a link out?
Click to expand...

No tightening in that one. Might have to take out a whole link and add back 1/2.


----------



## SGrabs33

ryless01 said:


> I am looking to replace a reel and bedknife and more to my old california trimmer homeowners addition. I can't seem to find any videos on how to take it apart to replace bearings and reel. Please help. Thank you in advance.


What step are you on now?

Usually a bearing puller to yank off the bearing retainers/bearings. Then put it back in the opposite way. Take the bedknife off before all else.


----------



## jskaterp

I scalped my lawn in Sunday with a 207H, I must've hit some small stones. When I inspected the reel afterwards it had some nicks in them, do I need to have it grinded out or can I just backlap and take it to be serviced in the off season?


----------



## SGrabs33

jskaterp said:


> I scalped my lawn in Sunday with a 207H, I must've hit some small stones. When I inspected the reel afterwards it had some nicks in them, do I need to have it grinded out or can I just backlap and take it to be serviced in the off season?


I would adjust it and backlap to see if that takes care of it. It usually will clean it up just fine.


----------



## jskaterp

SGrabs33 said:


> jskaterp said:
> 
> 
> 
> I scalped my lawn in Sunday with a 207H, I must've hit some small stones. When I inspected the reel afterwards it had some nicks in them, do I need to have it grinded out or can I just backlap and take it to be serviced in the off season?
> 
> 
> 
> I would adjust it and backlap to see if that takes care of it. It usually will clean it up just fine.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply man, I'll do that the next day I'm off!


----------



## Slim 1938

Ran across this ad thought I'd share. 3 25" trimmers in lubbock Tx. 
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/487920595597909/


----------



## hitmonchau

I have the 25" commercial mower and noticed yesterday when attempting to mow at 7/16" (position 6) that both sides (at the front) of my mower were contacting the pavement. It was barely usable in the lawn, every turn would tear up grass where the side was in the lawn. I attached two pictures for reference. Does anyone have any idea what is going on? I'd assume it shouldn't contact the lawn/concrete, especially since it isn't even the lowest setting.

On another note, is there any way to verify or adjust the level of the mower on one side or the other? I might be crazy but it seems to cut a little lower on one side than the other.


----------



## SGrabs33

@hitmonchau I would move it into the upper hall to get into the lower height of cut range. You'll still have one notch above and below 7/16.

As for the level. I would take a ruler and put it between the reel voids to measure the distance between the bottom of the bed knife to the floor. Obviously doing it on a level surface.


----------



## Prospect

hitmonchau said:


> I have the 25" commercial mower and noticed yesterday when attempting to mow at 7/16" (position 6) that both sides (at the front) of my mower were contacting the pavement. It was barely usable in the lawn, every turn would tear up grass where the side was in the lawn. I attached two pictures for reference. Does anyone have any idea what is going on? I'd assume it shouldn't contact the lawn/concrete, especially since it isn't even the lowest setting.
> 
> On another note, is there any way to verify or adjust the level of the mower on one side or the other? I might be crazy but it seems to cut a little lower on one side than the other.


Yes, that dragging of the side "fins" tore up my lawn as well. I honestly don't know how mechanically you can go any lower as is. I seriously considered cutting a portion of the side "fins" off so they wouldn't drag in the soil.
my remedy was buying a Toro GreensMaster. Problem solved, makes my Trimmer feel like a kids toy.
I love my Trimmer but the Toro is AWESOME


----------



## hitmonchau

Appreciate the feedback. I cut at 7/16" for a bit of a "summer" scalp so I think I'll go back and try to maintain at 9/16", if not move to the upper position and maintain at 11/16".

Greensmaster is a possibility later on, but too expensive right now!


----------



## Slim 1938

Yep my 25 does the same. It doesn't hit on flat areas but where I have a gradual slope it does leave marks. I mow on the #7 position usually. If I mow on 6 it doesn't leave marks. Mine has a factory roller and not a reelroller brand one. Not sure on how much different they are in diameter.


----------



## Slim 1938

For reference here's 7 spot mow and next pic is the 6 spot with stripes. I've thought about grinding that area down but I noticed when on flat concrete the rollers not even touching on the 7 spot anyway.


----------



## feinhorn

what grease is everyone using?


----------



## SGrabs33

feinhorn said:


> what grease is everyone using?


Usually just whatever Lucas high temp grease I can find @ a good deal


----------



## ellsbebc

Seeking guidance with the [new to me] Honda GC160 5.0 hp (model GCAHA3161687) on my older Cal Trimmer 20" homeowner model. I used the mower for roughly two hours but when I went to pull the recoil after dumping some clippings, it locked up. I am far from a small engine expert but have performed the following due diligence so far. Any advice on what to investigate or what could be the source of my problem?

- Replaced the carb before I used the engine for two hours so don't think it's carb related.

- Removed the recoil, spark plug and valve cover. I can hand crank it from TDC to BDC to TDC. The exhaust valve opens during this so I believe I am hand cranking the combustion and exhaust strokes. However, it gets stuck at TDC again and will not transition to the intake stroke.

- Timing appears to be off by one tooth. My research suggests this shouldn't cause my issues though.

- Oil was previously overfilled. Have since drained this to proper level. Could there be oil in the chamber preventing engine from turning over to intake stroke? If so, how to address?


----------



## LawnGeek

So i was looking at the IPB for the older RL205/207s and noticed that the bed knife has a lip that folds upward. My bed knife folds downward. Initially i just thought that i was in desperate need of a relief grind, until i saw this picture. Now i am wondering if my knife is upside down....? I did buy this thing used, so i wouldn't be surprised if that was the case. Any of you guys with an older commercial trimmer have any input? Thanks


----------



## SGrabs33

LawnGeek said:


> So i was looking at the IPB for the older RL205/207s and noticed that the bed knife has a lip that folds upward. My bed knife folds downward. Initially i just thought that i was in desperate need of a relief grind, until i saw this picture. Now i am wondering if my knife is upside down....? I did buy this thing used, so i wouldn't be surprised if that was the case. Any of you guys with an older commercial trimmer have any input? Thanks


Oh my. Can't imagine a that's right. Can you take a picture to share?


----------



## LawnGeek

SGrabs33 said:


> LawnGeek said:
> 
> 
> 
> So i was looking at the IPB for the older RL205/207s and noticed that the bed knife has a lip that folds upward. My bed knife folds downward. Initially i just thought that i was in desperate need of a relief grind, until i saw this picture. Now i am wondering if my knife is upside down....? I did buy this thing used, so i wouldn't be surprised if that was the case. Any of you guys with an older commercial trimmer have any input? Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Oh my. Can't imagine a that's right. Can you take a picture to share?
Click to expand...



This is what the IPB shows. You can see how it curves upward. I'll have to post my mower when i get to the house and take a picture. Essentially, my bedknife looks to be doing the exact opposite of what is represented here. Does your bedknife look like this one?


----------



## LawnGeek

Took a look, once i got home. I don't know what i was looking at yesterday, but it is oriented correctly. But, the top of the lip is very thin, I'd say it feels roughly the thickness of a dime. Can anyone chime in and tell me if that is thick enough to grind, or is it probably time to invest in a new one? Better yet, can anyone tell me how thick that lip typically is on a new bedknife? I've never had a new one. Thanks guys.


----------



## ellsbebc

ellsbebc said:


> Seeking guidance with the [new to me] Honda GC160 5.0 hp (model GCAHA3161687) on my older Cal Trimmer 20" homeowner model. I used the mower for roughly two hours but when I went to pull the recoil after dumping some clippings, it locked up. I am far from a small engine expert but have performed the following due diligence so far. Any advice on what to investigate or what could be the source of my problem?
> 
> - Replaced the carb before I used the engine for two hours so don't think it's carb related.
> 
> - Removed the recoil, spark plug and valve cover. I can hand crank it from TDC to BDC to TDC. The exhaust valve opens during this so I believe I am hand cranking the combustion and exhaust strokes. However, it gets stuck at TDC again and will not transition to the intake stroke.
> 
> - Timing appears to be off by one tooth. My research suggests this shouldn't cause my issues though.
> 
> - Oil was previously overfilled. Have since drained this to proper level. Could there be oil in the chamber preventing engine from turning over to intake stroke? If so, how to address?


Think I found the problem...the intake valve was stuck and possibly not completely closed, causing the piston to strike the intake valve. Need to gap the valves and get some Hondabond to reinstall the valve cover. Cross my fingers the motor runs smoothly after this troubleshooting.


----------



## LawnGeek

ellsbebc said:


> ellsbebc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Seeking guidance with the [new to me] Honda GC160 5.0 hp (model GCAHA3161687) on my older Cal Trimmer 20" homeowner model. I used the mower for roughly two hours but when I went to pull the recoil after dumping some clippings, it locked up. I am far from a small engine expert but have performed the following due diligence so far. Any advice on what to investigate or what could be the source of my problem?
> 
> - Replaced the carb before I used the engine for two hours so don't think it's carb related.
> 
> - Removed the recoil, spark plug and valve cover. I can hand crank it from TDC to BDC to TDC. The exhaust valve opens during this so I believe I am hand cranking the combustion and exhaust strokes. However, it gets stuck at TDC again and will not transition to the intake stroke.
> 
> - Timing appears to be off by one tooth. My research suggests this shouldn't cause my issues though.
> 
> - Oil was previously overfilled. Have since drained this to proper level. Could there be oil in the chamber preventing engine from turning over to intake stroke? If so, how to address?
> 
> 
> 
> Think I found the problem...the intake valve was stuck and possibly not completely closed, causing the piston to strike the intake valve. Need to gap the valves and get some Hondabond to reinstall the valve cover. Cross my fingers the motor runs smoothly after this troubleshooting.
Click to expand...

You may not be an expert, but you from the sound of it, you aren't far off! :lol: That's a good find, I hope it fixes your issue.
As much as i love working with lawn equipment, small engine knowledge is one of my weaknesses!


----------



## DFWdude

How hard is it to adjust reel to bed knife clearance on the commercial 25"? 
Also, per the recent posts above, does this model truly dig into the ground with its sides on low HOC settings?


----------



## hitmonchau

DFWdude said:


> How hard is it to adjust reel to bed knife clearance on the commercial 25"?
> Also, per the recent posts above, does this model truly dig into the ground with its sides on low HOC settings?


I adjusted the roller to the top setting which will allow me to cut as low as I want, under 1/2". It's not a greensmower but it does have it's advantages. Reel to bedknife isn't as easy as others but I don't have to adjust that often.


----------



## The_Dave

hitmonchau said:


> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> How hard is it to adjust reel to bed knife clearance on the commercial 25"?
> Also, per the recent posts above, does this model truly dig into the ground with its sides on low HOC settings?
> 
> 
> 
> I adjusted the roller to the top setting which will allow me to cut as low as I want, under 1/2". It's not a greensmower but it does have it's advantages. Reel to bedknife isn't as easy as others but I don't have to adjust that often.
Click to expand...

Mine cuts grass well enough, but there's enough of a gap that it doesn't cut paper. I've looked at the instructions for adjusting reel to bed knife and it seems daunting for someone not mechanically inclined (like me). But I suppose that's the downside of having the commercial unit.


----------



## LawnGeek

DFWdude said:


> How hard is it to adjust reel to bed knife clearance on the commercial 25"?
> Also, per the recent posts above, does this model truly dig into the ground with its sides on low HOC settings?


It's not difficult, but can be time consuming. As you adjust one side, it can affect the other side. So you will probably have to go back and forth several times before you get it cutting paper all the way across. Just take your time. And yes, these mowers will dig into the soil, if your yard is not perfectly flat. The lower you go, the greater the risk of digging into the yard, especially if you have high/low spots. But, if the yard isn't level and you go too low, you're going to create scalps on the high spots and longer grass in the low spots. It won't look good.


----------



## ellsbebc

Unfortunately, looks like my "fix" to the engine was only temporary because the piston is freezing in the chamber again. In addition, the spark plug hole is also stripped.

As foolish as it sounds, I am tempted to purchase a new Honda gc160 engine to start "fresh". Anyone know how to confirm this engine will fit the 20" homeowner model? Current engine is model # GCAHA-3161687.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_296_296?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Engines%20%3E%20Horizontal%20Engines%20%3E%20121Cc%20-%20240Cc%20Honda%20Horizontal%20Engines&utm_campaign=Honda%20Engines&utm_content=60594&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq4-Uhc2S8QIVOv3jBx0hogWvEAQYASABEgJx_fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#


----------



## Spammage

ellsbebc said:


> Unfortunately, looks like my "fix" to the engine was only temporary because the piston is freezing in the chamber again. In addition, the spark plug hole is also stripped.
> 
> As foolish as it sounds, I am tempted to purchase a new Honda gc160 engine to start "fresh". Anyone know how to confirm this engine will fit the 20" homeowner model? Current engine is model # GCAHA-3161687.
> 
> https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_296_296?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Engines%20%3E%20Horizontal%20Engines%20%3E%20121Cc%20-%20240Cc%20Honda%20Horizontal%20Engines&utm_campaign=Honda%20Engines&utm_content=60594&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq4-Uhc2S8QIVOv3jBx0hogWvEAQYASABEgJx_fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#


I would go with a Predator from Harbor Freight. Their small one might be enough, but the next one is comparable to a gx160.


----------



## SGrabs33

The_Dave said:


> hitmonchau said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> How hard is it to adjust reel to bed knife clearance on the commercial 25"?
> Also, per the recent posts above, does this model truly dig into the ground with its sides on low HOC settings?
> 
> 
> 
> I adjusted the roller to the top setting which will allow me to cut as low as I want, under 1/2". It's not a greensmower but it does have it's advantages. Reel to bedknife isn't as easy as others but I don't have to adjust that often.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Mine cuts grass well enough, but there's enough of a gap that it doesn't cut paper. I've looked at the instructions for adjusting reel to bed knife and it seems daunting for someone not mechanically inclined (like me). But I suppose that's the downside of having the commercial unit.
Click to expand...


----------



## ellsbebc

Spammage said:


> ellsbebc said:
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, looks like my "fix" to the engine was only temporary because the piston is freezing in the chamber again. In addition, the spark plug hole is also stripped.
> 
> As foolish as it sounds, I am tempted to purchase a new Honda gc160 engine to start "fresh". Anyone know how to confirm this engine will fit the 20" homeowner model? Current engine is model # GCAHA-3161687.
> 
> https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_296_296?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Engines%20%3E%20Horizontal%20Engines%20%3E%20121Cc%20-%20240Cc%20Honda%20Horizontal%20Engines&utm_campaign=Honda%20Engines&utm_content=60594&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIq4-Uhc2S8QIVOv3jBx0hogWvEAQYASABEgJx_fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#
> 
> 
> 
> I would go with a Predator from Harbor Freight. Their small one might be enough, but the next one is comparable to a gx160.
Click to expand...

I had not even considered that! The HF 6.5hp looks to be an identical clone - same shaft diameter and length plus keyhole. Will research that more this week and pull the trigger. Thanks, @Spammage.

https://www.harborfreight.com/65-hp-212cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epa-69730.html


----------



## Spdude

What would you say is a fair price for this 20" Cal Trimmer? Just cleaned the carb, fresh oil change, new plug, new belt. Recently backlapped. New air filter, aftermarket roller. Come with grass catcher. Just upgraded to a McLane 25" w/ Honda Engine, so I'll be selling this one.


----------



## ellsbebc

Thanks again @Spammage. Predator engine fit perfectly and took her for a spin at half throttle yesterday. Will open it up next mow.

Went all out with a double cut. Not bad for first ever reel mow on non-irrigated common Bermuda at 1 5/8".


----------



## dubyadubya87

ellsbebc said:


>


Nice stripes!


----------



## Spammage

ellsbebc said:


> Thanks again @Spammage. Predator engine fit perfectly and took her for a spin at half throttle yesterday. Will open it up next mow.
> 
> Went all out with a double cut. Not bad for first ever reel mow on non-irrigated common Bermuda at 1 5/8".


Looks awesome!


----------



## Chocolate Lab

After backlapping a Mascot manual, I realize my CT has gotten dull and needs a good backlap itself.

Has anyone come up with an easy way to attach a drill to the sprocket besides ordering the specialized part? I need to do it ASAP, plus I don't need the compound and brush that come with the kits.

(I read many pages of this thread but I confess to not reading them all!)


----------



## SGrabs33

Chocolate Lab said:


> After backlapping a Mascot manual, I realize my CT has gotten dull and needs a good backlap itself.
> 
> Has anyone come up with an easy way to attach a drill to the sprocket besides ordering the specialized part? I need to do it ASAP, plus I don't need the compound and brush that come with the kits.
> 
> (I read many pages of this thread but I confess to not reading them all!)


I can sell you just the adapter if you want. On me if you want.


----------



## Steely

Chocolate Lab said:


> After backlapping a Mascot manual, I realize my CT has gotten dull and needs a good backlap itself.
> 
> Has anyone come up with an easy way to attach a drill to the sprocket besides ordering the specialized part? I need to do it ASAP, plus I don't need the compound and brush that come with the kits.
> 
> (I read many pages of this thread but I confess to not reading them all!)


I use a 32mm socket and just put some duct tape on the sprocket. Works great.


----------



## Chocolate Lab

Thanks @Steely, that's exactly what I ended up doing. I had a big socket I used on my Fiskars (maybe not 32mm but close) with about a quarter roll of duct tape.

Now I'm thinking my CT should have been backlapped when I first got it? Because it was never even close to this sharp even when brand new.


----------



## Steely

@Chocolate Lab my socket was for my Fiskars too. Glad I saw your question as it reminded me that i really needed a sharpening. Now it cuts paper all the way across. Can't wait to mow.


----------



## SGrabs33

Chocolate Lab said:


> Now I'm thinking my CT should have been backlapped when I first got it? Because it was never even close to this sharp even when brand new.


Mowers come sharp and adjusted from factory. Surprised it's wasn't. It can always get knocked out of adjustment during shipping. But not usually.


----------



## TherapyRequired

I'm really itching for a reel mower for my Bermuda in the backyard. Will still cut it at 1" to 1.5" but my rotary just doesn't do with some of my unevenness.

Saw this posted for sale somewhat locally.

A 20" classic. Appears to have 7 blades. What is this unit worth, assuming it's in proper working order? They are asking $500

I use a Honda hrx now which is, what, 21". Will this 20" model be too small to mow a 6k backyard?





Thanks in advance!

Edit: the yard I'll be mowing. It has a slope to it.


----------



## GrassAndWater12

TherapyRequired said:


> I'm really itching for a reel mower for my Bermuda in the backyard. Will still cut it at 1" to 1.5" but my rotary just doesn't do with some of my unevenness.
> 
> Saw this posted for sale somewhat locally.
> 
> A 20" classic. Appears to have 7 blades. What is this unit worth, assuming it's in proper working order? They are asking $500
> 
> I use a Honda hrx now which is, what, 21". Will this 20" model be too small to mow a 6k backyard?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> Edit: the yard I'll be mowing. It has a slope to it.


I mow 5,500 sq ft and love mine! I wouldn't be afraid of the hill as long as it's 100% dry. Check out my journal. I paid $750 and stole mine, I would definitely jump on that deal. Keep us informed. At Home Depot brand new they are $1,110-$1,500. If you don't get it let me know lol


----------



## TherapyRequired

GrassAndWater12 said:


> I mow 5,500 sq ft and love mine! I wouldn't be afraid of the hill as long as it's 100% dry. Check out my journal. I paid $750 and stole mine, I would definitely jump on that deal. Keep us informed. At Home Depot brand new they are $1,110-$1,500. If you don't get it let me know lol


Dang it. Went to tell the person I'd take it and it's sold.


----------



## Jcm0241

New to the CT world, and motorized reel world all together. I took the plunge on an older 20" unit that needed carb work. I've gotten it started and will run but it's not quite there yet...

Anyway, and I acknowledge in advance I'm not a small motor guru... Is there not anyway to slow the speed down on these things? After engaging the "drive" on it, it MOVES! Like so fast that there's no way it can be getting an even and clean cut. Lowering the throttle doesn't seem to make any significant difference on the speed. Plus, as mentioned I don't have the carb right and can't keep it running at lower rpm speeds.

Am I missing something or is this just the way it is?


----------



## Steely

The only way I know is to lower the RPMs which works pretty well for me.


----------



## SGrabs33

Jcm0241 said:


> New to the CT world, and motorized reel world all together. I took the plunge on an older 20" unit that needed carb work. I've gotten it started and will run but it's not quite there yet...
> 
> Anyway, and I acknowledge in advance I'm not a small motor guru... Is there not anyway to slow the speed down on these things? After engaging the "drive" on it, it MOVES! Like so fast that there's no way it can be getting an even and clean cut. Lowering the throttle doesn't seem to make any significant difference on the speed. Plus, as mentioned I don't have the carb right and can't keep it running at lower rpm speeds.
> 
> Am I missing something or is this just the way it is?


Most likely is just lowering the throttle but it's possible some of the older mowers are different.

Can you share some pictures?


----------



## Jcm0241

SGrabs33 said:


> Jcm0241 said:
> 
> 
> 
> New to the CT world, and motorized reel world all together. I took the plunge on an older 20" unit that needed carb work. I've gotten it started and will run but it's not quite there yet...
> 
> Anyway, and I acknowledge in advance I'm not a small motor guru... Is there not anyway to slow the speed down on these things? After engaging the "drive" on it, it MOVES! Like so fast that there's no way it can be getting an even and clean cut. Lowering the throttle doesn't seem to make any significant difference on the speed. Plus, as mentioned I don't have the carb right and can't keep it running at lower rpm speeds.
> 
> Am I missing something or is this just the way it is?
> 
> 
> 
> Most likely is just lowering the throttle but it's possible some of the older mowers are different.
> 
> Can you share some pictures?
Click to expand...

You're probably right. I definitely need to get the carb issue fixed before I'll have any luck fixing the speed issue. The guy I bought it from let me know he had a cheap Amazon carb on there and he finally gave up on it. Bad part is I can't find a reputable carb for the gx110 motor.

I was able to have it running for a few passes before it died on me a few times. Again, thanks to this carb. I think it's running too rich right now and flooding after a few minutes of use.

Here are a few pictures. There is no model or sn sticker but there is an 50 yr anniversary sticker, so it was probably made sometime between 85-95. Any other educated guesses by you pros would be appreciated.

One thing i only just noticed tonight when taking these pictures... The reel looks very un-centered. If you'll notice in the pics below, I have about 1/8" gap on one side and about 7/8" on the other. Yo can even see some rub marks on the close side. Normal or no?

Last question. Is it possible to get a roller on this old of a model?


----------



## Jcm0241

Looking again at the last two photos, I now realize that the reel needs to clear those nuts on the inside there. So maybe it isn't as off center as originally thought?


----------



## SGrabs33

Jcm0241 said:


> Looking again at the last two photos, I now realize that the reel needs to clear those nuts on the inside there. So maybe it isn't as off center as originally thought?


Centering looks fine. No issues there.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Jcm0241 is there a belt or a chain coming off the engine?

I'm guessing chain which makes it a 20" pro model. Those are a little faster than the homeowner models. Throttling down the engine is going to be how you adjust the speed. So I would figure out your carb issues and get it running right before messing with the speed :thumbup:


----------



## Jcm0241

SGrabs33 said:


> @Jcm0241 is there a belt or a chain coming off the engine?
> 
> I'm guessing chain which makes it a 20" pro model. Those are a little faster than the homeowner models. Throttling down the engine is going to be how you adjust the speed. So I would figure out your carb issues and get it running right before messing with the speed :thumbup:


Hey @SGrabs33 appreciate the reply bud. It is in fact a chain behind the guard from the motor. Nice to know it's the professional, I suppose! Seems though that a roller may not be doable on this setup due to the inside brackets for the wheels. But will keep researching to see if anyone has found a way.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Jcm0241 font roller is completely comparable. It's a direct swap for that model!

If it were mine….
I'd grease up the grease fitting
Do an oil change
Get a backlap kit to backlap it

If all that turns out ok I'd buy a roller for it!


----------



## Steely

@Jcm0241 you should be able to put a @Reelrollers smooth or grooved roller on that model. Mine seems to be a similar vintage and the grooved roller works fantastic.

Here is my build thread…
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=380027#p380027


----------



## Spammage

@Jcm0241 @Reelrollers can get you fitted with a roller.


----------



## Jcm0241

SGrabs33 said:


> @Jcm0241 font roller is completely comparable. It's a direct swap for that model!
> 
> If it were mine….
> I'd grease up the grease fitting
> Do an oil change
> Get a backlap kit to backlap it
> 
> If all that turns out ok I'd buy a roller for it!


Don't judge me, but what's the grease fitting? I definitely have some learning to do.


----------



## Steely

@Jcm0241 the Cal Trimmers have a few grease fittings (with grease zerks). There are 2 on the reel shaft ends, 2 on the caster wheels, and others. Buy a cheap grease gun and a tube of #2 lithium grease and pump grease into those fittings until it comes out somewhere.

The operators manual covers all the locations of the fittings.

https://caltrimmer.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/RL20H-Operators-Manual-rev0717.pdf


----------



## DFWdude

Neither my 20" residential nor 25" commercial cal trimmers really stripe all that well. Is that just the nature of the beast, or an indication that adjustments should be made?

Bermuda, HOC 1/2"


----------



## SGrabs33

DFWdude said:


> Neither my 20" residential nor 25" commercial cal trimmers really stripe all that well. Is that just the nature of the beast, or an indication that adjustments should be made?
> 
> Bermuda, HOC 1/2"


1/2" Bermuda is hard to see super defined stripes without a full rear drum just because of how dense the grass is it's harder to lay over. You should see them stripe better if you brought up closer to 1".


----------



## DFWdude

@SGrabs33 thanks for the quick reply. 1" is too high for me, at least now. Maybe come fall.


----------



## Bobby_D

Greetings everyone!

Just bought my first reel mower! It's an old cal trimmer 20" 5 blade. Found it on marketplace in my neighborhood for $100! It definitely needs attention but runs at cuts. I figured for that price it's a good entry level/ getting my feet wet into reel mowing.

I've already been reading the pages on the post and finding good info on things i need to get done but I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions in the process!


----------



## hitmonchau

Should I have reel to bed knife contact? I can only cut paper with contact, but it's awfully loud…


----------



## SGrabs33

hitmonchau said:


> Should I have reel to bed knife contact? I can only cut paper with contact, but it's awfully loud…


Sounds like you need to backlap then.

Just light contact is best


----------



## hitmonchau

SGrabs33 said:


> hitmonchau said:
> 
> 
> 
> Should I have reel to bed knife contact? I can only cut paper with contact, but it's awfully loud…
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like you need to backlap then.
> 
> Just light contact is best
Click to expand...

Copy, thanks.


----------



## Erickson89

Hi everyone, my buddy just bought a house and the previous owner left a cal trimmer. He has no plans to cut his own grass and told me to make an offer.

Is this thing even worth the effort? The blade won't turn but I don't know if that's because it needs to be backed out or for another reason. It looks like it was serviced by peach tree mowers at some point as the gas tank was super clean inside.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Erickson89 The good thing is all the parts are there! Does the engine run? It looks like it's been sitting for quite a while. The rear Roller doesn't have much tread left on it. The real is also pretty worn. It be a good winter project. You can always get it and try to back lap it to see how well it cuts. Wouldn't hurt anything. They make replacement parts for those machines so you can find those really easily


----------



## Erickson89

SGrabs33 said:


> @Erickson89 The good thing is all the parts are there! Does the engine run? It looks like it's been sitting for quite a while. The rear Roller doesn't have much tread left on it. The real is also pretty worn. It be a good winter project. You can always get it and try to back lap it to see how well it cuts. Wouldn't hurt anything. They make replacement parts for those machines so you can find those really easily


Thank you for the update. It looks like it was serviced by Peachtree mowers before it sit because there's a tag on it from them and the gas tank was super clean inside. So I haven't had a chance to fire it up.

Any idea what year it might be or where I can I figure that out? Also, thanks in advance!


----------



## SGrabs33

Erickson89 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Erickson89 The good thing is all the parts are there! Does the engine run? It looks like it's been sitting for quite a while. The rear Roller doesn't have much tread left on it. The real is also pretty worn. It be a good winter project. You can always get it and try to back lap it to see how well it cuts. Wouldn't hurt anything. They make replacement parts for those machines so you can find those really easily
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the update. It looks like it was serviced by Peachtree mowers before it sit because there's a tag on it from them and the gas tank was super clean inside. So I haven't had a chance to fire it up.
> 
> Any idea what year it might be or where I can I figure that out? Also, thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

That's great there isn't anything in the gas tank. Usually those are rusted out if they sit for a long time.

Honestly the year doesn't matter from a mechanical perspective. You can more easily find it out by by looking up the serial number on the honda engine most likely.

The trimmer model is below. 
https://caltrimmer.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/RL20-25-Operators-Manual-rev0919.pdf


----------



## Jcm0241

Erickson89 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Erickson89 The good thing is all the parts are there! Does the engine run? It looks like it's been sitting for quite a while. The rear Roller doesn't have much tread left on it. The real is also pretty worn. It be a good winter project. You can always get it and try to back lap it to see how well it cuts. Wouldn't hurt anything. They make replacement parts for those machines so you can find those really easily
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you for the update. It looks like it was serviced by Peachtree mowers before it sit because there's a tag on it from them and the gas tank was super clean inside. So I haven't had a chance to fire it up.
> 
> Any idea what year it might be or where I can I figure that out? Also, thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

Yours looks really similar to the one I picked up a few weeks ago. Your setup looks really close to mine, including the metal grass catcher. I have some pictures posted a few posts above here.

What model is your Honda motor?


----------



## DFWdude

Has anyone fabbed up a drag behind roller or a lawn brush on their cal trimmer to help it stripe better?


----------



## Erickson89

So quick update, I took the mower up to Peachtree Mowers today. They said the mower was definitely a pre 93 model. Looks like the reel still has some life, but initial inspection is the bed knife needs repalced among some other smaller parts. I'll have some news from them on what to expect later this week/next week.


----------



## SGrabs33

Erickson89 said:


> So quick update, I took the mower up to Peachtree Mowers today. They said the mower was definitely a pre 93 model. Looks like the reel still has some life, but initial inspection is the bed knife needs repalced among some other smaller parts. I'll have some news from them on what to expect later this week/next week.


Sounds like a good deal. Bedknife is only 60 bucks or so.


----------



## TifTufTrent

Hello all,

First time poster here. Been following the forum for about 3 months now and have found it quite helpful. Thanks for all the input!

I Renovated the yard June 11th with TifTuf, and purchased a used Cal trimmer July 5th with the Honda GX120. This past Monday I figured I'd take a peek at the engine oil level before mowing, just to be safe. When I removed the cap (gray), oil started flowing pretty heavily from the opening. I quickly recapped it and figured I needed to use the black cap one on the other side. Same thing occurred when I removed that cap as well. Never seen this happen before when checking oil. All I can figure is that the engine was overfilled by the previous owner?? I'm not much of an engine guy, but I do know too much and too little is bad. With that in mind, should I drain some?

I appreciate any advice!


----------



## Steely

If the mower is on a level surface, the oil should not be flowing out. Sounds like it was overfilled. You're removing the plastic plug, right? And not the metal threaded drain plug, correct?


----------



## TifTufTrent

Correct. I removed the gray plastic plug first. When it came flowing from it, I tried the black plug on the other side.


----------



## La24

TifTufTrent said:


> Correct. I removed the gray plastic plug first. When it came flowing from it, I tried the black plug on the other side.


Yeah definitely shouldn't be leaking from backside where u fill the oil. I would recommend getting one of those hand pump siphon things for draining the oil. The only other way is the drain plug which could be real messy.


----------



## SGrabs33

TifTufTrent said:


> Hello all,
> 
> First time poster here. Been following the forum for about 3 months now and have found it quite helpful. Thanks for all the input!
> 
> I Renovated the yard June 11th with TifTuf, and purchased a used Cal trimmer July 5th with the Honda GX120. This past Monday I figured I'd take a peek at the engine oil level before mowing, just to be safe. When I removed the cap (gray), oil started flowing pretty heavily from the opening. I quickly recapped it and figured I needed to use the black cap one on the other side. Same thing occurred when I removed that cap as well. Never seen this happen before when checking oil. All I can figure is that the engine was overfilled by the previous owner?? I'm not much of an engine guy, but I do know too much and too little is bad. With that in mind, should I drain some?
> 
> I appreciate any advice!


There is a low oil cut off on those Honda's. Possible the last person had a hilly yard and they overfilled the oils slightly to stop the sensor from shutting the engine off too often


----------



## spud

Anybody know the bedknife angle?

I'm thinking about making a DIY bedknife buddy.

I assume they're the same but I have the 25 inch.

Thanks


----------



## Jcm0241

I'm having issues adjusting my reel to make contact with the bed knife. I watched a video online where it shows loosening the reel bolts 1/4 turn or so and tapping on the reel down and in until there is barely contact. However, I'm not able to get any adjustment even with forceful taps. (I took the sprocket off to make a backlap adapter. The 32mm socket idea is too small for my sprocket)


----------



## DFWdude

Like JCM, I cannot get my 25" commercia reel to bedknife clearance adjusted. It seems the side opposite the drive chain responds to medium taps, but the drive side isnt moving. 
Are their tips / tricks for adjusting the 25"?


----------



## DFWdude

Also, one of my reel blades is now hitting the bedknife at the drive sprocket end.


----------



## Jcm0241

DFWdude said:


> Also, one of my reel blades is now hitting the bedknife at the drive sprocket end.


It's hitting so much that it's completely stopping it? Some contact is good but I cannot get mine to budge at all.


----------



## DFWdude

Jcm0241 said:


> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> Also, one of my reel blades is now hitting the bedknife at the drive sprocket end.
> 
> 
> 
> It's hitting so much that it's completely stopping it? Some contact is good but I cannot get mine to budge at all.
Click to expand...

Yes, full contact interference. And I cant seem to bang it free by hitting it from below.


----------



## Jcm0241

Well shoot... Maybe try loosening the bolts a little more even and then give it a couple taps?

Do you have any wiggle in the bearings?


----------



## DFWdude

Jcm0241 said:


> Well shoot... Maybe try loosening the bolts a little more even and then give it a couple taps?
> 
> Do you have any wiggle in the bearings?


Bearings are good, and i loosened up all 6 bolts a ton trying to free it.


----------



## DFWdude




----------



## DFWdude

Lessons learned so far;
When hitting the hub i dont think you are trying to move the reel closer to the bedknife, But rather trying to rotate the hub itself as it is mounted on a cam. You can see this by looking at the drive shaft with the gear; the shaft is not centered. 
So perhaps we are banging away hoping things move, when we should be lightly tapping trying to rotate the hubs.


----------



## DFWdude

Fully removed all six bolts, and got the reel free. Put it back in, and this is where things currently stand

https://youtu.be/-80NVuIVhpo

Pretty sure that the cams on each end of the reel shaft are not aligned, causing interference.


----------



## DFWdude

I got it turning freely and aligned left to right. 
Slowly moved the reel in until it cut paper...but for that to happen i can barely turn the reel. I need a 2' wooden breaker to backspin it. Might just do that with some lapping compound 2000x to see if she frees up. 
Mud drill wont even spin it


----------



## DFWdude

https://youtube.com/shorts/kGuQ5Y82FHc?feature=share

Did this for a few min. Now the mud drill will spin it,
But it still needs some serious torque to get it going And it still wont spin freely.


----------



## Spammage

DFWdude said:


> I got it turning freely and aligned left to right.
> Slowly moved the reel in until it cut paper...but for that to happen i can barely turn the reel. I need a 2' wooden breaker to backspin it. Might just do that with some lapping compound 2000x tonsee if she frees up.
> Mud drill wont even spin it


Back it off a little and start backlapping. You might need to readjust and continue the process a few times to get it correctly adjusted and sharp. A full reel and bedknife will only cut paper with extreme contact and that is what this sounds like. Honestly a professional grind is what you probably need, but if you take your time and do as I've suggested, you can probably eventually get it corrected.


----------



## DFWdude

@Spammage what do you mean by extreme contact to cut paper? My 20" easily cuts paper and spins freely while not sounding like this one.

Any harm if i just backlap as is, other than wearing away a bit more material?


----------



## Jcm0241

DFWdude said:


> @Spammage what do you mean by extreme contact to cut paper? My 20" easily cuts paper and spins freely while not sounding like this one.
> 
> Any harm if i just backlap as is, other than wearing away a bit more material?


Would probably just take longer to get a clean result.


----------



## Jcm0241

Jealous of your 10 blade reel! How long have you had the trimmer?


----------



## DFWdude

Either way, post ************ it should spin freely, correct? Of course, no chain connected


----------



## DFWdude

Jcm0241 said:


> Jealous of your 10 blade reel! How long have you had the trimmer?


Got this one june 9th


----------



## Spammage

DFWdude said:


> @Spammage what do you mean by extreme contact to cut paper? My 20" easily cuts paper and spins freely while not sounding like this one.
> 
> Any harm if i just backlap as is, other than wearing away a bit more material?


Sorry, autocorrect got me. A DULL reel and bedknife will only cut paper with extreme contact.


----------



## DFWdude

@Spammage 10-4. Thanks

This reel was dull. I think i got bamboozled a bit on this unit.

Thanks for the help!


----------



## DFWdude

Ok fam, help me out here...

I used my mud drill and compound to backlap the crap out it. Reel blades are nice and shiny, and sharp!

But it still wouldn't cut paper or spin freely. So I backed the reel far away from the bedknife, and then started moving it slowly back in again and backlapping. And again, the reel gets *really* hard to turn by hand the closer it gets to the bedknife. And it still wont cut paper. I can keep moving it closer trying to get it to cut paper, but whats the point in that if the reel wont spin?

So where do I go from here?

Summary;
Reel backed off spins freely; no interference or noise
If I move the reel toward the bedknife, the reel gets very hard to spin and it wont cut paper. 
At some point today, I was able to make it cut paper on one side, but now I cant repeat that.
I am adjusting the reel by turning the cam hubs via screwdriver on the hub bosses, and tapping w a hammer.
I need to mow NLT Tues, so lets get this sorted!


----------



## Spammage

@DFWdude what lapping compound are you using? My CalTrimmer initially had a similar issue to what you are experiencing. I set it tight, but just tight enough that the drill could spin it and used 80 grit compound. When that would spin freely, repeat the process. Keep repeating and you will eventually get there. I went through several batteries this way and it was a few days project, but I eventually had it cutting beautifully. Again, a professional grind is what it needs, but you can get it to where it needs to be with time and effort.


----------



## DFWdude

I'm not sure what grit the compound is; its the reel rollers stuff that came with their kit. EDIT. 80 grit is what they provide.

I'll keep at it, but I guess the part that is most puzzling to me is the interference upon spinning. While that wont cut paper cleanly, it should at least rip it apart right? Because right now, it wont. Could the reel be rubbing on the mower body, or elsewhere?


----------



## DSchlauch

@DFWdude I had similar issues with my Cal Trimmer as well. It seemed as though I could never find a happy medium between acceptable RTBK contact and sharpness. The only option short of a grind and new bed knife is really as you have been doing: backing off the reel enough to be able to backlap, over and over and over. On the commercial Cal Trimmer's it may be worth it to just get the grind and new bed knife since adjusting the RTBK on those units is like the worst design ever.


----------



## DFWdude

@DSchlauch 
What pisses me off is that my cal trimmer distributor sold me the unit as a demo and said he has used it maybe 10 times. If that is true, how could I need a grind and new bed knife after a month of mowing?!

Do I order the bed knife from Cal Trimmer? 
Anyone have a lead on a DFW shop that can grind the reel?

And yes, the adjustment on this model is painful!


----------



## Jcm0241

DFWdude said:


> @DSchlauch
> What pisses me off is that my cal trimmer distributor sold me the unit as a demo and said he has used it maybe 10 times. If that is true, how could I need a grind and new bed knife after a month of mowing?!
> 
> Do I order the bed knife from Cal Trimmer?
> Anyone have a lead on a DFW shop that can grind the reel?
> 
> And yes, the adjustment on this model is painful!


Following here. I'm in Haslet, myself.


----------



## SGrabs33

DFWdude said:


> @DSchlauch
> What pisses me off is that my cal trimmer distributor sold me the unit as a demo and said he has used it maybe 10 times. If that is true, how could I need a grind and new bed knife after a month of mowing?!
> 
> Do I order the bed knife from Cal Trimmer?
> Anyone have a lead on a DFW shop that can grind the reel?
> 
> And yes, the adjustment on this model is painful!


Which model was the demo that you got the 20 or 25. If they were demo model from the dealer they should've arrived ready to go. No need for a grind or bedknife. Can you take a picture of the reel?


----------



## DFWdude

@SGrabs33 the 25" was the demo.

This is the only reel pic I have before my backlapping



Edit; also this pic from the day it was delivered.


----------



## DSchlauch

@DFWdude I usually ordered any parts I needed from  here . I would check ebay as well, I've seen bed knifes on there pretty cheap.

After dealing with mine, I concluded that the reels and bed knifes were just not made of material that could take much wear. This may not be the case at all, but I really could not figure out any other explanation for having such difficulty in maintaining an edge with acceptable contact. It was not uncommon for me to get the reel performing perfectly and then it not cut paper any longer after one mow. I usually ended up having more RTBK contact than should be needed, to the point it would not spin very easily, definitely not freely, but that allowed me to not have to readjust and/or have to backlap as frequently. And if I'm being honest, if I had to go through the process required to adjust the commercial models, I probably would have just sold it and got something else. That was the primary reason I bought the home owner model instead of the commercial one.

I wholeheartedly agree with that low of hours on it this should not be necessary, but if there is a better explanation I have no shame in deferring to an expert ......


----------



## DFWdude

Well, I had (and still have) the 20" model first. Dealer said it would be fine for my size yard, but after using it a bit, no dang way. I need the larger size and increased speed of the 25". 
But if I cant get this sorted and I'm a mech engr, something ain't right...

@DSchlauch when you ran w excessive contact, did it cut paper? Did the reel get hot and cause any concerns?


----------



## DSchlauch

Yes, I could get it to cut paper, but it was a struggle. I bought it new, and the first season wasn't terrible, but not easy. The next 2 seasons were a PITA. I did not check to make sure it would cut paper before every mow though, and I'm pretty sure it would not most of the time. I honestly just got tired of fighting with it and tried to keep an eye out for poor cut quality on the grass before I made adjustments.


----------



## Jcm0241

DSchlauch said:


> Yes, I could get it to cut paper, but it was a struggle. I bought it new, and the first season wasn't terrible, but not easy. The next 2 seasons were a PITA. I did not check to make sure it would cut paper before every mow though, and I'm pretty sure it would not most of the time. I honestly just got tired of fighting with it and tried to keep an eye out for poor cut quality on the grass before I made adjustments.


Do you have a commercial or home trimmer?


----------



## DFWdude

Ok folks, I got it to where i figured the engine could power through the last bit of contact, so I tried to put it back together. But....now the chain is too long?



The idler was STUCK in place when I took the chain off, almost parallel with the ground. So it used to be much higher. Not sure what changed, bit I cant run it like this bc the chain is contacting itself, and now the chain guard interferes with the idler arm.

Per cal trimmer, it should look like this



Help?


----------



## Jcm0241

Dfw, as you mentioned the cam is not centered, so rotating it would cause the chain to either loosen or tighten. But wow, that's alot of extra slack created.. I would imagine a link needs to be removed..?


----------



## DFWdude

Jcm0241 said:


> Dfw, as you mentioned the can is not centered, so rotating it would cause the chain to either loosen or tighten. But wow, that's alot of extra slack created.. I would imagine a link needs to be removed..?


I fear this, because I cant put it back. But I see no other way.


----------



## SGrabs33

DFWdude said:


> Jcm0241 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Dfw, as you mentioned the can is not centered, so rotating it would cause the chain to either loosen or tighten. But wow, that's alot of extra slack created.. I would imagine a link needs to be removed..?
> 
> 
> 
> I fear this, because I cant put it back. But I see no other way.
Click to expand...

$15 chain breaker on Amazon to take out a link.

If you need a temporary fix… you might be able to get a mow in by having the chain rest on top of the tensioner. *not advice


----------



## DFWdude

I can remove the link no problem. I just scratch my head that I have to.


----------



## DSchlauch

Jcm0241 said:


> DSchlauch said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I could get it to cut paper, but it was a struggle. I bought it new, and the first season wasn't terrible, but not easy. The next 2 seasons were a PITA. I did not check to make sure it would cut paper before every mow though, and I'm pretty sure it would not most of the time. I honestly just got tired of fighting with it and tried to keep an eye out for poor cut quality on the grass before I made adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a commercial or home trimmer?
Click to expand...

residential model, 207H


----------



## Amoo316

@DFWdude I'm sure you're not exactly happy with them right now, but you mentioned you've kinda gotten the shaft from the dealer twice. Do they have a physical location around there somewhere or did you order it?

If it was me I'd call them, ask for a tech and ask wtf is going on with that think.


----------



## DFWdude

Its a distributor; some guy out of his personal garage. No store front. I've used it for a month, so they will likely tell me to pound sand.


----------



## Jcm0241

DFWdude said:


> Its a distributor; some guy out of his personal garage. No store front. I've used it for a month, so they will likely tell me to pound sand.
> 
> Here is a fun fact. With a link removed the chain is now too short.


 :lol: :lol: :lol: your fun fact made me literally laugh out loud. That's the craziest thing I've ever seen.


----------



## DFWdude

I got the chain on, but the engine power wont spin the reel/drive roller.


----------



## DSchlauch

@DFWdude , always an option!


----------



## Amoo316

DFWdude said:


> Its a distributor; some guy out of his personal garage. No store front. I've used it for a month, so they will likely tell me to pound sand.


I mean if you got it from a licensed distributor, he may tell you to pound sand, but I was suggesting call the company themselves, tell them what's up and maybe you can find some sympathy and get some help.


----------



## DFWdude

Amoo316 said:


> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> Its a distributor; some guy out of his personal garage. No store front. I've used it for a month, so they will likely tell me to pound sand.
> 
> 
> 
> I mean if you got it from a licensed distributor, he may tell you to pound sand, but I was suggesting call the company themselves, tell them what's up and maybe you can find some sympathy and get some help.
Click to expand...

Oh, i did that today. Awaiting feedback

Also, got it running and spinning. Cleaned off the lapping compound and hit it with some canola oil (grass safe, hopefully. But with the way things are going...)

Will mow tomorrow. Or at least try. Stay tuned.


----------



## DFWdude

DSchlauch said:


> @DFWdude , always an option!


Hahahaha. 🍺🍺


----------



## DFWdude

I put a summary of this work and its conclusion into my lawn journal. I dont think the mower was ever cutting well, but it is now!


----------



## SGrabs33

DFWdude said:


> I put a summary of this work and its conclusion into my lawn journal. I dont think the mower was ever cutting well, but it is now!


Glad you got it cutting well!


----------



## Smurfe

Looking at the California Trimmer. Are the regular model and the High Cut model the same machine with the wheels mounted in different holes? I want the High Cut model but if I found a used regular model for sale, would I be able to move the wheels to other bolt holes in the frame to convert it to a high cut? Looking at their website, it looks like the same mower with the wheels bolted in different holes. I also notice the high cut sells for a few dollars more. Is that simply due to labor costs for the retailer having to move the wheels to the other provided holes? Just curious. I am torn between the Cal Trimmer High Cut and the Tru-cut P-20


----------



## SGrabs33

Smurfe said:


> Looking at the California Trimmer. Are the regular model and the High Cut model the same machine with the wheels mounted in different holes? I want the High Cut model but if I found a used regular model for sale, would I be able to move the wheels to other bolt holes in the frame to convert it to a high cut? Looking at their website, it looks like the same mower with the wheels bolted in different holes. I also notice the high cut sells for a few dollars more. Is that simply due to labor costs for the retailer having to move the wheels to the other provided holes? Just curious. I am torn between the Cal Trimmer High Cut and the Tru-cut P-20


Yes they are the same set up but with the rear axle in the top hole for the standard and the low hole for high cut.

Moving from the standard to high cut isn't too easy. It involves moving the axle but also some of the cables would need to be switched out because they are longer on the high cut.


----------



## Bobby_D

I have two questions. I'm new to these mowers and I just picked up my second cal trimmer.

I noticed on the second one I bought it has this bracket on the operators right side of the reel. My other one doesn't have it. What is it?



My second question:
I tried to adjust my bedknife and when the middle of the bedknife is cutting paper that outside edges are not. I can fold the paper and the outside cuts. With that much of a difference will a backlap be enough to dial it in? Or do I need a new bedknife?


----------



## DFWdude

Backlapping is usually done when the ends cut and not the middle. But I think you'll be OK backlapping.


----------



## DFWdude

Ok, me again. I mowed yesterday and it now seems like 1/2 the reel is cutting poorly. This is evident bc the tips of the cut grass on one side of each pass are now brown.

I assume this means that the side of the reel leaving the brown tips needs to have tighter reel to bedknife clearance?



Bad/brown side



Good/green side


----------



## Jcm0241

Alright trimmer friends. Got a situation... My commercial 20" has two stripped bolt holes on the non-chain side. You'll see in the picture that there is a non painted bolt. That one was actually missing when I bought this unit. Guess it was missing for good reason, as it won't hold..

Do these bolts hold the reel in place, as far as the contact with the bedknife goes? Or is that all controlled by the opposite side?

What are my options here? I tried to re-thread and they're too far gone.


----------



## DFWdude

Jcm0241 said:


> Do these bolts hold the reel in place, as far as the contact with the bedknife goes?


This is exactly what they do. If you cant retap them with the same size, maybe try d&t the next size up, or replacing the internal collar into which they thread.


----------



## jerrit

I recently picked up an old Cali Trimmer, HO 20. Looking to do a rebuild this winter, I have a honda gx120 laying around and I think the trimmer needs it. Has anyone tried to convert the wheel and reel lever to a cable operated one? I think the new ones have a handle attached to a cable to engage the wheel and reel. Open to hear of any other mods I might as well do while I have thorn this thing apart? I already bought a front grooved roller!


----------



## SGrabs33

@jerrit cool machine. Unfortunately I don't think those are easy to convert at all. It would involve welding etc.

No other upgrades besides a roller really. Just go through all the parts to see what may need replaced.

https://caltrimmer.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Old-HO-DPL-2.pdf

Should be a fun project.


----------



## dubyadubya87

Okay Cal Trimmer community, I'm about to purchase one of these bad boys. My question is on the front roller: smooth or grooved? I know the grooved is supposed to help with thatch, which I've never had an issue with (frequent mowings with manual reel), but I think I've seen it also allows for a better cut. Has anyone used both? I guess I'd say stripe quality would be my biggest wish. Would love some feedback. I have half of my yard in zoysia/common and the other in St.Aug. I'll be getting the High-Cut.
Excited to join the 'club' and thanks.


----------



## DFWdude

I only used the flat roller twice until my grooved roller arrived. The only difference that I could note was that with the grooved roller, it was slightly easier to keep the mower going in straight lines.


----------



## dubyadubya87

DFWdude said:


> I only used the flat roller twice until my grooved roller arrived. The only difference that I could note was that with the grooved roller, it was slightly easier to keep the mower going in straight lines.


Good feedback, thank you @DFWdude!


----------



## Langley

Quick question….

Picking up a 20" one month old trimmer. Any chance it would fit in the trunk of a Honda Accord? If not I'll just rent a truck but if I can avoid that it would be great.


----------



## DFWdude

It might, but its way heavier than a normal mower. I'd rent the truck


----------



## Langley

DFWdude said:


> It might, but its way heavier than a normal mower. I'd rent the truck


Yeah that's what I did when I got my Mclane. Thanks


----------



## Spammage

@dubyadubya87 I think the smooth roller stripes better, but if you maintaining taller than the grooves in the roller, it might not make much difference.


----------



## SGrabs33

Langley said:


> Quick question….
> 
> Picking up a 20" one month old trimmer. Any chance it would fit in the trunk of a Honda Accord? If not I'll just rent a truck but if I can avoid that it would be great.


You buying from Diana on FB?

No on the accord. Any car with a full trunk and seats that will fold down. Truck. Can. Suv. Mini Cooper.


----------



## La24

I bought the groove roller this year, I was planning on leveling my lawn. But never got to it, the groove roller leaves alot of lines in my lawn after cutting. So I went back to the smooth roller, no more lines and better stripes. So it all depends if u have a level lawn or not, for which roller to use.


----------



## AlaTex

Lately I've noticed some of the grass blades aren't being completely cut, only half way or so. I do a paper test before each cut and it cuts perfectly. Does it need a reel to bed knife adjustment? I've already adjusted it twice but if so, how much contact should the reel make with the bed knife? It makes slight contact right now.

My lawn's pretty level but still needs more leveling. I'm sure the unevenness isn't helping matters.

FYI, I'm currently cutting it at 1 1/8" every three days. I first noticed the problem after the grass got overgrown while I was on vacation and brought it down from ~1 3/4 to 1 3/8, then down to 1 1/8, over the course of two cuts.


----------



## SGrabs33

@AlaTex weird it is partially cutting it. Obviously the reel won't cut high grass very well. Bringing it down in increments was a good idea.

Reel to bedknife should have light contact all the way across.


----------



## ellsbebc

My 20" homeowner cal trimmer with RR grooved front roller is somehow unlevel. I have been maintaining at 1.25" and noticed it gave a very uneven cut after the last mow. Don't have a fancy HOC gauge but I estimate the the clearance to bed knife on right side is approx. 1/8" higher than the left.

Do I need to remove the front roller to inspect it and/or adjust somehow?


----------



## AlaTex

SGrabs33 said:


> @AlaTex weird it is partially cutting it. Obviously the reel won't cut high grass very well. Bringing it down in increments was a good idea.
> 
> Reel to bedknife should have light contact all the way across.


I'm going to chalk it up to the longer grass after being out of town. Next time I may just cut a little off with the rotary and then the rest using the trimmer.


----------



## Jcm0241

Anyone have a solution for an older Commercial trimmer with a loose chain after backlap? I'm wondering if I could just add one using one of the bolt holes, shown in the picture below?

Evidently they didn't utilize chain tensioners back when this particular one was made and the parts guide recommends engine shims but I can't find anywhere that sells that part number.

Also, any clue to what may have been bolted on to the upper left of the reel sprocket?


----------



## SGrabs33

Jcm0241 said:


> Anyone have a solution for an older Commercial trimmer with a loose chain after backlap? I'm wondering if I could just add one using one of the bolt holes, shown in the picture below?
> 
> Evidently they didn't utilize chain tensioners back when this particular one was made and the parts guide recommends engine shims but I can't find anywhere that sells that part number.
> 
> Also, any clue to what may have been bolted on to the upper left of the reel sprocket?


Use the bolt holes for a tensioner? You could possibly but I would just replace the chains if they are stretched too far.

Do you need engine shims? Is the engine chain lose?


----------



## Jcm0241

SGrabs33 said:


> Jcm0241 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have a solution for an older Commercial trimmer with a loose chain after backlap? I'm wondering if I could just add one using one of the bolt holes, shown in the picture below?
> 
> Evidently they didn't utilize chain tensioners back when this particular one was made and the parts guide recommends engine shims but I can't find anywhere that sells that part number.
> 
> Also, any clue to what may have been bolted on to the upper left of the reel sprocket?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the bolt holes for a tensioner? You could possibly but I would just replace the chains if they are stretched too far.
> 
> Do you need engine shims? Is the engine chain lose?
Click to expand...

I think I'm about a half chain link oversized right now after backlapping. Can I make that type of adjustment in the chain? It's loose enough to rub the chain guard and make an ungodly sound.

Regarding engine shims, I think I agree with what you're saying. I didn't gain any slack in the engine chain, but the reel chain. I guess I misunderstood what the parts guide was referencing.


----------



## DFWdude

Just order and install a tensioner?


----------



## Jcm0241

DFWdude said:


> Just order and install a tensioner?


Well look at that. It's the exact spot of the hole in the frame. 10-4 DFW.


----------



## SGrabs33

Jcm0241 said:


> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just order and install a tensioner?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well look at that. It's the exact spot of the hole in the frame. 10-4 DFW.
Click to expand...

High cut and 25" reels have the tensioner. The 20" standard homeowner does not use one.


----------



## DFWdude

Doesnt he have the 25? Or at least the commercial 20?


----------



## SGrabs33

DFWdude said:


> Doesnt he have the 25? Or at least the commercial 20?


Not sure. Was just putting it in as an FYI.


----------



## DFWdude

&#128077;&#127996;


----------



## Jcm0241

DFWdude said:


> Doesnt he have the 25? Or at least the commercial 20?


20" commercial. Looking at the frame it looks like there may have been something bolted there in the past, based on rust marks. But the direction looks to be pointed upwards, so who knows.

I've bought more damn parts for this thing. The 4" handle extension is not as universal as the description states. My clutch rod for instance is one solid rod. Not split like the newer ones. So I had to now buy a split rod to work with the new extension. Of course that's the last part of the install and so it's now unusable until I get that piece delivered..


----------



## orangeokie

AlaTex said:


> Lately I've noticed some of the grass blades aren't being completely cut, only half way or so. I do a paper test before each cut and it cuts perfectly. Does it need a reel to bed knife adjustment? I've already adjusted it twice but if so, how much contact should the reel make with the bed knife? It makes slight contact right now.
> 
> My lawn's pretty level but still needs more leveling. I'm sure the unevenness isn't helping matters.
> 
> FYI, I'm currently cutting it at 1 1/8" every three days. I first noticed the problem after the grass got overgrown while I was on vacation and brought it down from ~1 3/4 to 1 3/8, then down to 1 1/8, over the course of two cuts.


The first half of this video talks about setting the "gap" between the bed knife and the rotor blades. It uses a Jacobson reel for demonstration purposes, but I found it interesting that this Jacobson expert trainer set the distance (between the bed knife and reel blade} with a piece of paper. Zero contact steel on steel. I have heard others reference using a 1/thousandth feeler gage, as the proper distance, where a 2/thousandth would not fit. Make sense?


----------



## orangeokie

ellsbebc said:


> My 20" homeowner cal trimmer with RR grooved front roller is somehow unlevel. I have been maintaining at 1.25" and noticed it gave a very uneven cut after the last mow. Don't have a fancy HOC gauge but I estimate the the clearance to bed knife on right side is approx. 1/8" higher than the left.
> 
> Do I need to remove the front roller to inspect it and/or adjust somehow?


This master trainer for the Jacobson says to start at the left side of the reel, as you face it, (the leading edge side) and adjust the clearance so that a single strip of tying paper snuggly fits between. Then move to the right side (the trailing edge side) and do the same.


----------



## JML

Jcm0241 said:


> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> Doesnt he have the 25? Or at least the commercial 20?
> 
> 
> 
> 20" commercial. Looking at the frame it looks like there may have been something bolted there in the past, based on rust marks. But the direction looks to be pointed upwards, so who knows.
> 
> I've bought more damn parts for this thing. The 4" handle extension is not as universal as the description states. My clutch rod for instance is one solid rod. Not split like the newer ones. So I had to now buy a split rod to work with the new extension. Of course that's the last part of the install and so it's now unusable until I get that piece delivered..
Click to expand...

Had the same thing and the extension is the wrong size/threading as the split rod. The split rod was 1/4-28, so had to by couplers and a rod off Amazon to make it work. Hopefully yours works better.


----------



## orangeokie

SGrabs33 said:


> The_Dave said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hitmonchau said:
> 
> 
> 
> I adjusted the roller to the top setting which will allow me to cut as low as I want, under 1/2". It's not a greensmower but it does have it's advantages. Reel to bedknife isn't as easy as others but I don't have to adjust that often.
> 
> 
> 
> Mine cuts grass well enough, but there's enough of a gap that it doesn't cut paper. I've looked at the instructions for adjusting reel to bed knife and it seems daunting for someone not mechanically inclined (like me). But I suppose that's the downside of having the commercial unit.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Was this video showing a 25" model? Don't the 20" models have to vertical screw posts you turn to adjust the reel to bed knife gap?


----------



## Jcm0241

JML said:


> Jcm0241 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> Doesnt he have the 25? Or at least the commercial 20?
> 
> 
> 
> 20" commercial. Looking at the frame it looks like there may have been something bolted there in the past, based on rust marks. But the direction looks to be pointed upwards, so who knows.
> 
> I've bought more damn parts for this thing. The 4" handle extension is not as universal as the description states. My clutch rod for instance is one solid rod. Not split like the newer ones. So I had to now buy a split rod to work with the new extension. Of course that's the last part of the install and so it's now unusable until I get that piece delivered..
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Had the same thing and the extension is the wrong size/threading as the split rod. The split rod was 1/4-28, so had to by couplers and a rod off Amazon to make it work. Hopefully yours works better.
Click to expand...

Well great... I haven't gotten that far yet since the rods haven't arrived but I'm hoping that isn't an issue. Thanks for the heads up.

Ran into my 2nd issue with the extension.. The new chain supplied that raises and lowers the drive wheel was too short by about two links. When engaged it wouldn't make contact with the ground.

In other news, it doesn't seem like I'll be able to use the chain tensioner. My frame doesn't have the threaded pegs that are shown in the picture. I do have a hole there but it doesn't look like I can get clearance from the inside for the reel, and on the outside for the "connector" that sets the height.

If I ever get the stars to align on this thing, I think it'll be a really nice machine.


----------



## orangeokie

The_Dave said:


> hitmonchau said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> How hard is it to adjust reel to bed knife clearance on the commercial 25"?
> Also, per the recent posts above, does this model truly dig into the ground with its sides on low HOC settings?
> 
> 
> 
> I adjusted the roller to the top setting which will allow me to cut as low as I want, under 1/2". It's not a greens mower but it does have it's advantages. Reel to bedknife isn't as easy as others but I don't have to adjust that often.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Mine cuts grass well enough, but there's enough of a gap that it doesn't cut paper. I've looked at the instructions for adjusting reel to bed knife and it seems daunting for someone not mechanically inclined (like me). But I suppose that's the downside of having the commercial unit.
Click to expand...

I just watched this video. I think might help you with your adjustments.


----------



## orangeokie

gardencityboy said:


> Slim 1938 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well I pulled the trigger on the commercial 25. It's a beauty for sure. It'll take a little to get used to but cuts way nicer than my Mclane.
> 
> 
> 
> Congratulations !!! How easy is it to adjust the bedknife to reel adjustment on the commercial mower. I think it is different from the 20" ones and from you pictures I dont see any adjustment screws.
Click to expand...


----------



## JML

Jcm0241 said:


> JML said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jcm0241 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 20" commercial. Looking at the frame it looks like there may have been something bolted there in the past, based on rust marks. But the direction looks to be pointed upwards, so who knows.
> 
> I've bought more damn parts for this thing. The 4" handle extension is not as universal as the description states. My clutch rod for instance is one solid rod. Not split like the newer ones. So I had to now buy a split rod to work with the new extension. Of course that's the last part of the install and so it's now unusable until I get that piece delivered..
> 
> 
> 
> Had the same thing and the extension is the wrong size/threading as the split rod. The split rod was 1/4-28, so had to by couplers and a rod off Amazon to make it work. Hopefully yours works better.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well great... I haven't gotten that far yet since the rods haven't arrived but I'm hoping that isn't an issue. Thanks for the heads up.
> 
> Ran into my 2nd issue with the extension.. The new chain supplied that raises and lowers the drive wheel was too short by about two links. When engaged it wouldn't make contact with the ground.
> 
> In other news, it doesn't seem like I'll be able to use the chain tensioner. My frame doesn't have the threaded pegs that are shown in the picture. I do have a hole there but it doesn't look like I can get clearance from the inside for the reel, and on the outside for the "connector" that sets the height.
> 
> If I ever get the stars to align on this thing, I think it'll be a really nice machine.
Click to expand...

I believe the new chain is supposed to be an extension- meaning you use both. It then made my chain too long so had to zip tie several of the upper links together. But it works until I get a chain breaker.


----------



## AlaTex

orangeokie said:


> AlaTex said:
> 
> 
> 
> Lately I've noticed some of the grass blades aren't being completely cut, only half way or so. I do a paper test before each cut and it cuts perfectly. Does it need a reel to bed knife adjustment? I've already adjusted it twice but if so, how much contact should the reel make with the bed knife? It makes slight contact right now.
> 
> My lawn's pretty level but still needs more leveling. I'm sure the unevenness isn't helping matters.
> 
> FYI, I'm currently cutting it at 1 1/8" every three days. I first noticed the problem after the grass got overgrown while I was on vacation and brought it down from ~1 3/4 to 1 3/8, then down to 1 1/8, over the course of two cuts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The first half of this video talks about setting the "gap" between the bed knife and the rotor blades. It uses a Jacobson reel for demonstration purposes, but I found it interesting that this Jacobson expert trainer set the distance (between the bed knife and reel blade} with a piece of paper. Zero contact steel on steel. I have heard others reference using a 1/thousandth feeler gage, as the proper distance, where a 2/thousandth would not fit. Make sense?
Click to expand...

Interesting. I'll make that adjustment before my next cut and see if it helps. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## LawnGeek

I can understand the frustration. My drive chain has so much slap. I got sick of all the noise and ordered the tensioner, nut and bolt. I get out there today to put it on only to realize that my frame doesn't have the tab to mount the tensioner! I go back to the illustrated parts breakdown and happen to see the note that states mowers without the tab need "shims" for under the engine. Well, I just used a bunch of washers! I left some slack to allow assembly of the chain, and still making a racket. Do y'all's drive chains make that much noise?


----------



## DFWdude

@LawnGeek i used to live in Rockwall!

My drive chains are quiet on the 20" residential and 25" commercial.


----------



## LawnGeek

DFWdude said:


> @LawnGeek i used to live in Rockwall!
> 
> My drive chains are quiet on the 20" residential and 25" commercial.


How about that. Small world! What part of Rockwall did you live in? I'm in Fate actually. 
It might be time to replace that chain then. I'm sure it has stretched over time, but it also has some side to side play on the sprocket.


----------



## DFWdude

I was about a mile north of 66 on the east side of Ray Hubbard. I loved it there, but momma needed a shorter commute to work so we are on the West side of town now.

Side to side play in the chain, or the sprocket is moving on the shaft?


----------



## DFWdude

On a 25" commercial, is the bedknife location fixed, or does it have some play and only becomes fixed when you torque the screws?


----------



## Theycallmemrr

So my chain popped off the other day on my commerial CT and noticed that the bar to engage the drive/reel bends towards the chain. Is it time for a clutch adjustment or adjust the bar? The bar the operates the clutch is a two piece system.


----------



## GrassAndWater12

LawnGeek said:


> I can understand the frustration. My drive chain has so much slap. I got sick of all the noise and ordered the tensioner, nut and bolt. I get out there today to put it on only to realize that my frame doesn't have the tab to mount the tensioner! I go back to the illustrated parts breakdown and happen to see the note that states mowers without the tab need "shims" for under the engine. Well, I just used a bunch of washers! I left some slack to allow assembly of the chain, and still making a racket. Do y'all's drive chains make that much noise?


Have you thought about removing one link and installing a half link? Google it I never knew it existed but SGrabbs told me about it.


----------



## 1BAMFR

Any advice on how to remove the bedknife screws? Can't seem to get them off.


----------



## Steely

Get a manual impact screwdriver…

TEKTON 3/8 Inch Drive Impact Screwdriver Set (7-Piece) | 2905 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5YRQZBDMBNJ2Z5TKZRM5


----------



## AustinR

GrassAndWater12 said:


> LawnGeek said:
> 
> 
> 
> I can understand the frustration. My drive chain has so much slap. I got sick of all the noise and ordered the tensioner, nut and bolt. I get out there today to put it on only to realize that my frame doesn't have the tab to mount the tensioner! I go back to the illustrated parts breakdown and happen to see the note that states mowers without the tab need "shims" for under the engine. Well, I just used a bunch of washers! I left some slack to allow assembly of the chain, and still making a racket. Do y'all's drive chains make that much noise?
> 
> 
> 
> Have you thought about removing one link and installing a half link? Google it I never knew it existed but SGrabbs told me about it.
Click to expand...

+1 
Replaced my drive chain after it snapped a month ago. Bought some chain and trimmed it to what I thought, from the parts manual, was the size but it had a ton of slack. Would smack against the back of the grass catcher, and about tripled the noise I was making mowing. Replaced a link with a half link, and it runs great now - and much quieter.


----------



## Cody_S

1BAMFR said:


> Any advice on how to remove the bedknife screws? Can't seem to get them off.


I have a RL207 that I just replaced the bed knife on a few weeks back. Had to grind off the head of the old bolt, drill into the threaded area, then use a tap to get mine out. That's after using penetrating lubricant, snapping multiple hammer drill / impact bits, and trying the manual impact(not even close to working) before giving in and grinding/drilling away. My advice, go straight to drilling and using a tap to get them out. Take the engine off and turn it over, gives the best access/angle for work.


----------



## DFWdude

Can you weld a nut onto them and then use a socket?


----------



## Reel_Alabama

My 20" H showed up yesterday. I dropped the roller to the bottom hole and raised it up so I could play with it in the backyard. I've been cutting with a Fiskars and it's a bit late for me to scalp. I'm also recovering from army worms. I laid down some stripes and I'm really excited for next spring! I have really learned a bunch reading through this thread. Thanks for all of the great insight.


----------



## DFWdude

Looks great! My 20" doesnt stripe at all.

Do y'all's cal trimmers get way, way louder when you engage the reel? Mine are both super quiet without the reel spinning; just the hum of the honda. But when i set thing in motion its like nails on the chalkboard.


----------



## Slim 1938

Today I noticed the drum on my 25" CT is rubbing on a gaurd. It has to happen when I turn around after pass and lean it back on the part of my lawn that slopes. My mowers only on its first season and at this rate it's going to wear fast. I looked through others pics on here and I noticed the same damage area. I'm wondering if notching the gaurd will help.


----------



## GrassAndWater12

Reel_Alabama said:


> My 20" H showed up yesterday. I dropped the roller to the bottom hole and raised it up so I could play with it in the backyard. I've been cutting with a Fiskars and it's a bit late for me to scalp. I'm also recovering from army worms. I laid down some stripes and I'm really excited for next spring! I have really learned a bunch reading through this thread. Thanks for all of the great insight.


Congrats on the new purchase. It'll put your lawn game on a whole new level!


----------



## SGrabs33

Slim 1938 said:


> Today I noticed the drum on my 25" CT is rubbing on a gaurd. It has to happen when I turn around after pass and lean it back on the part of my lawn that slopes. My mowers only on its first season and at this rate it's going to wear fast. I looked through others pics on here and I noticed the same damage area. I'm wondering if notching the gaurd will help.


Do you have a bolt in the chain to raise the rear roller higher off the ground in the up position? If so maybe lessen the amount of chain in the bolt.

You could try notching the frame but I would guess that piece is there for a reason. Might void the warranty though.


----------



## Slim 1938

@SGrabs33 no I don't have anything holding the chain up. I tried that when I first got it but it made it slip top much. It's just a bad design. I mowed today and it doesn't take much to make it rub. The tab that hold the gaued is the problem. It's welded on at an angle instead of straight across. Ill get a pic in a sec.


----------



## DFWdude

Here are my 20" and 25"


----------



## dubyadubya87

The game changer showed up yesterday, 20" High Cut.
Spent the evening putting it together and installing an hour meter to help with maintenance. I only cranked it up and mowed like 20 square feet beside my garage, but this beast is going to take some getting used to after manhandling my 30 pound Scotts around like a ragdoll for the last three years. Heavy isn't the word for it, but I know it will take getting used to. I am going to have to tighten the chain to the drive wheel. Even in the 'off' position, I found it was still catching the ground. Just need to bring it up a slight bit. I'd seen earlier in this forum where someone used a screw and bolt to cinch the chain up, going to try that.


----------



## DFWdude

@dubyadubya87 nice! Did you order from HD or our local distributor?


----------



## dubyadubya87

DFWdude said:


> @dubyadubya87 nice! Did you order from HD or our local distributor?


Thank you, Reel Lawn Guy hooked me up. I'm a shop local guy. Didn't even know HD carried them.


----------



## DFWdude

I told ya in a PM about HD.

No worries. Hope you dig it!


----------



## dubyadubya87

Faint in the picture, I know, but anyone else notice the regular 'ridge' on each pass, parallel to my picture? I'm hoping these are just wheel marks that I never had with the light manual or are they something else?


----------



## DFWdude

Did you catch the clippings or leave them on the lawn?


----------



## dubyadubya87

DFWdude said:


> Did you catch the clippings or leave them on the lawn?


I did leave them, but I always do. This was just way more than usual!


----------



## DFWdude

The trimmer throws clipping to the left as you walk, which can leave a striped pile of clippings depending how much you are cutting. 
Are the ridges just clippings, or taller grass? If the latter, could just be the result of a non-level lawn.


----------



## dubyadubya87

DFWdude said:


> The trimmer throws clipping to the left as you walk, which can leave a striped pile of clippings depending how much you are cutting.
> Are the ridges just clippings, or taller grass? If the latter, could just be the result if a non-level lawn.


Not clippings, it's taller grass and you are probably right as I know it's not as level as it should be. Thank you!


----------



## DFWdude

You could also be floating the mower on the grass causing it to tilt


----------



## dubyadubya87

DFWdude said:


> You could also be floating the mower on the grass causing it to tilt


Anything is possible at this point, with my learning curve! If it is the level, raising my HOC should minimize the ridge, correct?


----------



## Reel_Alabama

dubyadubya87 said:


> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> You could also be floating the mower on the grass causing it to tilt
> 
> 
> 
> Anything is possible at this point, with my learning curve! If it is the level, raising my HOC should minimize the ridge, correct?
Click to expand...

On my first few mows I was applying too much downward pressure on the handles causing a similar issue. I try to slightly pull up now and I don't see it as much. May be worth a shot before changing HOC.


----------



## dubyadubya87

Reel_Alabama said:


> dubyadubya87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> You could also be floating the mower on the grass causing it to tilt
> 
> 
> 
> Anything is possible at this point, with my learning curve! If it is the level, raising my HOC should minimize the ridge, correct?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> On my first few mows I was applying too much downward pressure on the handles causing a similar issue. I try to slightly pull up now and I don't see it as much. May be worth a shot before changing HOC.
Click to expand...

I did notice where when turning or randomly I'd applied pressure and caused it to 'ride' up, so this too could be right. I'm going to leave it on the same setting and see if my ridges are still there Saturday. If it's a level issue, they'll be in the same place. I certainly hope it's a 'newb' user error, much easier to fix.
Thank you, this forum's community rocks!


----------



## GrassAndWater12

dubyadubya87 said:


> The game changer showed up yesterday, 20" High Cut.
> Spent the evening putting it together and installing an hour meter to help with maintenance. I only cranked it up and mowed like 20 square feet beside my garage, but this beast is going to take some getting used to after manhandling my 30 pound Scotts around like a ragdoll for the last three years. Heavy isn't the word for it, but I know it will take getting used to. I am going to have to tighten the chain to the drive wheel. Even in the 'off' position, I found it was still catching the ground. Just need to bring it up a slight bit. I'd seen earlier in this forum where someone used a screw and bolt to cinch the chain up, going to try that.


Congrats on the new purchase it looks awesome. Yes, the bolt or zip tie works but CT also just came out with this bracket in the picture. It makes it quick and easy to adjust and it just looks cleaner.


----------



## dubyadubya87

[/quote]Congrats on the new purchase it looks awesome. Yes, the bolt or zip tie works but CT also just came out with this bracket in the picture. It makes it quick and easy to adjust and it just looks cleaner. 

[/quote]Thank you for the info. I had put on a #8 bolt and nut and it's working atm


----------



## DFWdude

My 25" has started making a rattling noise when the unit has the reel and drive roller engaged, but the drive roller is not contacting the ground, or when it is contacting but the unit is in short grass (barely has anything to mow).

Any ideas what might be causing this? Seems like the reel needs grass to quiet it down, but that would indicate contact between it and the bedknife leading to heat, of which there is none.

https://youtube.com/shorts/3SpJr1Ew1Io?feature=share


----------



## woogieboogie

Sorry if this has already been asked but just pulled the trigger on a classic California 20 inch with Honda motor and I was wondering what specific gas and oil do you use with the machine? I feel stupid asking this but just want to treat it right and take care of it from the get go. Thanks for the help!


----------



## JML

woogieboogie said:


> Sorry if this has already been asked but just pulled the trigger on a classic California 20 inch with Honda motor and I was wondering what specific gas and oil do you use with the machine? I feel stupid asking this but just want to treat it right and take care of it from the get go. Thanks for the help!


Standard unleaded gas (if you have an ethanol free station near you, even better). Oil is 10w-40.


----------



## feinhorn

woogieboogie said:


> Sorry if this has already been asked but just pulled the trigger on a classic California 20 inch with Honda motor and I was wondering what specific gas and oil do you use with the machine? I feel stupid asking this but just want to treat it right and take care of it from the get go. Thanks for the help!


I put ethanol free in mine.


----------



## DFWdude

Ethanol free gas and 10w-40 small engine oil.


----------



## Mathwiz

All I will add is I am a synthetic oil kind of guy. It IS superior and the cost @ less than 1qt per change negates cost. AAMOF I just bought synthetic 30wt for my mower. Congrats and I hope you are reely happy with it.


----------



## woogieboogie

Where are you guys getting ethanol free gas? Is there a specific brand? And will definitely be getting synthetic oil. Any specific brand there?


----------



## DFWdude

I get my ethanol free at Buc-ee's
Oil-wise, I am in the finished lube business so I'm biased. But really any name brand will suit you. I usually buy the OEM juice or the Castrol brand that most closely matches OEM spec.


----------



## Mathwiz

My options for synthetic were limited for straight 30wt. so I purchased Royal Purple (never used this brand before). In a 10W-40 you have many options. I agree with DFW. With refining being what it is nowadays, they are all quality products. Heck, I even hear really solid reviews on Wal Marts Super Tech brand.


----------



## DFWdude

I would shy away from super tech. Walmart is really good at beating up their suppliers on cost. So while a supertech oil might meet the listed spec, will it exceed it in any way? Not likely.


----------



## DFWdude

Mathwiz said:


> My options for synthetic were limited for straight 30wt. so I purchased Royal Purple (never used this brand before). In a 10W-40 you have many options. I agree with DFW. With refining being what it is nowadays, they are all quality products. Heck, I even hear really solid reviews on Wal Marts Super Tech brand.


Apologies for the tangent, but refining is really a small piece of the puzzle, and that is base oil. Yes base oil plays a major role in the overall fluid performance, but no one is using poorly refined / junk base oil. At least not a name brand and certainly not a full synthetic. What really matters is the additive package and its treat rate. An oil can be formulated for cost (barely passing required testing) or for performance (far exceeds required testing). The sad fact is as long as an oil meets the minimum specs, its can carry the associated claims and be sold. Joe Consumer cant tell if he is buying good enough oil or really good oil.

So to play it safe, OEM oil is good bc the mfg knows it will protect their hardware. Name brand, top tier oil is good because they typically use better additives and at higher treat rates.

Hope this helps


----------



## woogieboogie

Okay so a good Mobil 1 would probably be good, right? and why would I want 10W40 vs 10W30? Thanks for everyone's help by the way


----------



## DFWdude

40 vs 30; that is how thick the oil will be at operating temp. Higher number means thicker oil. Engines are designed to use a specific weight oil; clearances, bearings etc. 
so while a lower viscosity could net you lower fuel consumption, it could possibly do so at the cost of less mechanical protection. And truthfully, chances are you'd never even be able to tell the fuel useage difference. 
So if a piece of equipment calls for X, use X. One step up or down and you'd likely be fine. But why risk it?


----------



## JML

woogieboogie said:


> Where are you guys getting ethanol free gas? Is there a specific brand? And will definitely be getting synthetic oil. Any specific brand there?


https://www.pure-gas.org/


----------



## Reel_Alabama

woogieboogie said:


> Where are you guys getting ethanol free gas? Is there a specific brand? And will definitely be getting synthetic oil. Any specific brand there?


Are you close to any marinas? There are usually lots of ethanol free options around them. I see you're in CA so I'm not sure if the regulations are prohibitive in your state. I'm a big fan of Mobil 1.


----------



## DFWdude

Ant ideas what this noise is?

https://youtube.com/shorts/deZmf70VfJ0?feature=share


----------



## JML

DFWdude said:


> Ant ideas what this noise is?
> 
> https://youtube.com/shorts/deZmf70VfJ0?feature=share


Chain slap. Take off the cover and adjust the tensioner.


----------



## DFWdude

JML said:


> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ant ideas what this noise is?
> 
> https://youtube.com/shorts/deZmf70VfJ0?feature=share
> 
> 
> 
> Chain slap. Take off the cover and adjust the tensioner.
Click to expand...

Chain slap even with the clutch disengaged and the reel not spinning?


----------



## Jcm0241

DFWdude said:


> JML said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> Ant ideas what this noise is?
> 
> https://youtube.com/shorts/deZmf70VfJ0?feature=share
> 
> 
> 
> Chain slap. Take off the cover and adjust the tensioner.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Chain slap even with the clutch disengaged and the reel not spinning?
Click to expand...

Do you have the noise when it the clutch *is* engaged? Regarding the slap, you could take the drive chain guard off to confirm.


----------



## DFWdude

Jcm0241 said:


> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JML said:
> 
> 
> 
> Chain slap. Take off the cover and adjust the tensioner.
> 
> 
> 
> Chain slap even with the clutch disengaged and the reel not spinning?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Do you have the noise when it the clutch *is* engaged? Regarding the slap, you could take the drive chain guard off to confirm.
Click to expand...

Cant confirm if the noise is present when the clutch is engaged just yet; dont want to piss of the neighbors.

But I can confirm the drive chain (edited) is under plenty of tension.

The only "loose" item I could move and make noise with was this;


----------



## DFWdude

Update; the clutch chain and sprocket are sloppy.

https://youtube.com/shorts/ji9Tc4XCIkg?feature=share

I tightened up the clutch a bit, and the problem remains.

This has to be Excessive chain slop, right? 
https://youtube.com/shorts/4TTgYYBPcPs?feature=share

Is the chain worn, the sprocket worn or both? Seems fishy on a unit I got on 09 June of this year.


----------



## JML

DFWdude said:


> Jcm0241 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DFWdude said:
> 
> 
> 
> Chain slap even with the clutch disengaged and the reel not spinning?
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have the noise when it the clutch *is* engaged? Regarding the slap, you could take the drive chain guard off to confirm.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Cant confirm if the noise is present when the clutch is engaged just yet; dont want to piss of the neighbors.
> 
> But I can confirm the drive belt is under plenty of tension.
> 
> The only "loose" item I could move and make noise with was this;
Click to expand...

The 25" doesn't have a belt; it's a chain. Left side of the engine take the cover off. Is that chain tight?


----------



## DFWdude

Sorry, wrong word choice. Yes, the drive chain is super tight. Nor could it be making the noise since the noise is present when the reel (and drive chain) are not spinning.

Per my recent posts, its the clutch chain and sprocket making the noise.


----------



## JML

DFWdude said:


> Sorry, wrong word choice. Yes, the drive chain is super tight. Nor could it be making the noise since the noise is present when the reel (and drive chain) are not spinning.
> 
> Per my recent posts, its the clutch chain and sprocket making the noise.


I fully understand what you're saying and have read every reply and and video you've posted. But your last video still shows the chain guard on. You need to remove this. Left side is the engine, there's a triangular shaped guard (clutch engagement level rod runs through it). Remove that cover. With the engine on, you'll see that the engine's output shaft spinning, turning the sprocket and chain that's running to the clutch sprocket on the drive shaft. That's why it has nothing to do with the clutch being engaged- that chain always spins.

Some models have a chain tensioner that you'll need adjust, some don't and you just need to put a couple washers between he engine and fame. That will remove the tension and noise.


----------



## DFWdude

@JML Ok, i'm tracking. When I said drive chain i was talking about the chain on the far right, that rotates the drive drum and reel. 
You're talking about the chain that connects the engine to the clutch, and that chain is absolutely the culprit per my previous.

Cover removed and as found:



Tensioner fully extended, and chain still not fully tight



Video of it running after the tensioner adjustment. 
https://youtube.com/shorts/MK_QZ3pzvKE?feature=share


----------



## JML

Your mower has 3 separate chains, I would recommend taking some time to understand what each one does, because when you say the far right one, it still sounds like you're referring to the (middle) one that spins the drive wheel, not the one that turns the reel. It's an important distinction.

From here- #1 I would recommend replacing that tensioner pulley (https://zampree.com/collections/california-trimmer-parts/products/tensioner-chain) as it's visably very worn. There is another one that lives in the far right chain guard that does the same thing and might as well replace both if needed.
To resolve the issue- your options are #1) removing removing a link from the chain. Check your local Ace hardware for a #40 half link. Or #2) removing the 4 nuts that hold down the engine and adding washers to each post. This will raise the engine and remove slack and get the chain closer to the tensioner roller.


----------



## DFWdude

JML said:


> Your mower has 3 separate chains, I would recommend taking some time to understand what each one does, because when you say the far right one, it still sounds like you're referring to the (middle) one that spins the drive wheel, not the one that turns the reel. It's an important distinction.
> 
> From here- #1 I would recommend replacing that tensioner pulley (https://zampree.com/collections/california-trimmer-parts/products/tensioner-chain) as it's visably very worn. There is another one that lives in the far right chain guard that does the same thing and might as well replace both if needed.
> To resolve the issue- your options are #1) removing removing a link from the chain. Check your local Ace hardware for a #40 half link. Or #2) removing the 4 nuts that hold down the engine and adding washers to each post. This will raise the engine and remove slack and get the chain closer to the tensioner roller.


Thank you for the info.

RE the 3 chains, I'm not sure how "far right" can be construed as anything other the one under the chain guard on the very far right of the machine; The chain the physically connects the drive drum shaft to the reel. Im not trying to be a D here; just clarifying what I mean by far right. 
And technically, it has 4 chains if you count the one that raises and lowers the drive drum 😜



To your point about the tensioner being worn, let me ask you this. How much mowing do you think would be required to achieve such wear? I got the mower from my local dealer in Jun, and have mowed just about every 4 days with it, covering ~13k sq ft each time.

The reason I ask is that I've had nothing but issues with this mower and they are all wear related. Dull reel, big rtbk clearance, angled reel (clutch side closer to bedknife than opposite end), and now this badly worn tensioner.

Many thanks for the help!


----------



## JML

DFWdude said:


> The only "loose" item I could move and make noise with was this;


Tightening bolt #32/21 will remove that slop.


----------



## DFWdude

I Bought a 1/2 link of chain, removed one link and installed the halfer and for some reason the the chain ends were just a hair too far apart, even under tension. That is when I noticed a few seized link pins, causing max length to not be achieved as the chain could not fully match the diameter of the sprockets. 
Also, maybe part of my noise issue is the chain's side to side play allowing it to chew into the drive sprocket as shown. If not a contributor to the noise, likely what caused the pins to seize.


----------



## schwa75

This thread is great! I have read all 36 pages and I'm ready to pull the trigger on a 20HO model. I have 10k sqft of zoysia in SWFL. It is currently mowed to 2" weekly. My lawn service's rotary does not do a good job, leaving swirls. They follow up with a walk behind bagger but I'm still not satisfied with the job.

What height would you guys cut the zoysia to? I plan to mow ever 3 to 4 days. Would you recommend a 5 or 7 blade reel? Grass will always be damp or wet when I have a chance to cut it.

Thanks for all the amazing input on this forum.


----------



## SGrabs33

schwa75 said:


> This thread is great! I have read all 36 pages and I'm ready to pull the trigger on a 20HO model. I have 10k sqft of zoysia in SWFL. It is currently mowed to 2" weekly. My lawn service's rotary does not do a good job, leaving swirls. They follow up with a walk behind bagger but I'm still not satisfied with the job.
> 
> What height would you guys cut the zoysia to? I plan to mow ever 3 to 4 days. Would you recommend a 5 or 7 blade reel? Grass will always be damp or wet when I have a chance to cut it.
> 
> Thanks for all the amazing input on this forum.


What type of zoysia do you have? Every three or four days is a great plan. You would be able to maintain it pretty low if there's a way she can handle it depending on variety.

Seven blade most likely.


----------



## schwa75

@SGrabs33 I believe Empire was installed. Confirming that now. We are coming out of the rainy season now - June, July, Aug, and Sept all had over 10 inches of rain each month and headed to the dry season. The lawn is completely irrigated on well, so we can keep up with the watering needs the other 8 months. I need to do more research on the zoysia to understand its needs better.


----------



## Bombers

schwa75 said:


> This thread is great! I have read all 36 pages and I'm ready to pull the trigger on a 20HO model. I have 10k sqft of zoysia in SWFL. It is currently mowed to 2" weekly. My lawn service's rotary does not do a good job, leaving swirls. They follow up with a walk behind bagger but I'm still not satisfied with the job.
> 
> What height would you guys cut the zoysia to? I plan to mow ever 3 to 4 days. Would you recommend a 5 or 7 blade reel? Grass will always be damp or wet when I have a chance to cut it.
> 
> Thanks for all the amazing input on this forum.


2 inch and swirls means your yard is not leveled. You probably want to plan for a level as you make the switch to a reel mower.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

schwa75 said:


> This thread is great! I have read all 36 pages and I'm ready to pull the trigger on a 20HO model. I have 10k sqft of zoysia in SWFL. It is currently mowed to 2" weekly. My lawn service's rotary does not do a good job, leaving swirls. They follow up with a walk behind bagger but I'm still not satisfied with the job.
> 
> What height would you guys cut the zoysia to? I plan to mow ever 3 to 4 days. Would you recommend a 5 or 7 blade reel? Grass will always be damp or wet when I have a chance to cut it.
> 
> Thanks for all the amazing input on this forum.


@schwa75 
The lower the HOC the more blades you want. I would go with a 7 if given those two choices.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

Anyone use a 428 chain? I know the stock one is size 40 but thought I could use a 428 with gold nitride coating and either O-ring or X-ring to better resist chain rust.


----------



## schwa75

Bombers said:


> schwa75 said:
> 
> 
> 
> This thread is great! I have read all 36 pages and I'm ready to pull the trigger on a 20HO model. I have 10k sqft of zoysia in SWFL. It is currently mowed to 2" weekly. My lawn service's rotary does not do a good job, leaving swirls. They follow up with a walk behind bagger but I'm still not satisfied with the job.
> 
> Thanks for all the amazing input on this forum.
> 
> 
> 
> 2 inch and swirls means your yard is not leveled. You probably want to plan for a level as you make the switch to a reel mower.
Click to expand...

@Bombers we spent days and tons of man-hours leveling and pitching the yard for drainage before the new sod was put down. I threw a fit when I saw the different pallets had different thickness of sod and all that work of leveling went to waste as they mixed and matched from different pallets. I guess I am paying for that now. At least we have a lot of sand down here! Off to do my research on leveling...


----------



## schwa75

SGrabs33 said:


> schwa75 said:
> 
> 
> 
> This thread is great! I have read all 36 pages and I'm ready to pull the trigger on a 20HO model. I have 10k sqft of zoysia in SWFL. It is currently mowed to 2" weekly. My lawn service's rotary does not do a good job, leaving swirls. They follow up with a walk behind bagger but I'm still not satisfied with the job.
> 
> What height would you guys cut the zoysia to? I plan to mow ever 3 to 4 days. Would you recommend a 5 or 7 blade reel? Grass will always be damp or wet when I have a chance to cut it.
> 
> Thanks for all the amazing input on this forum.
> 
> 
> 
> What type of zoysia do you have? Every three or four days is a great plan. You would be able to maintain it pretty low if there's a way she can handle it depending on variety.
> 
> Seven blade most likely.
Click to expand...

@SGrabs33 I confirmed that I do have Empire. Looks like is is recommended to be maintained between 1" and 2.5". I would like to be on the 1" side of that. Given that should I purchase the HC model?

Last question, buy a Briggs model today or wait at least two months for a Honda?


----------



## Flyersdude

When I release the clutch on my trimmer there's a horrible high vibration noise that comes from the housing where the belt is. Something within the housing just vibrates as the reel slows down the stop after it's been going full speed. Any suggestions?

It's not the reel That's coming from the housing with the 7 logo

https://youtube.com/shorts/wHOoH43JFn8?feature=share

Also side note, what is the model number of replacement belts? Can I grab on amazon?


----------



## Slim 1938

My 25" is making noises too. I plan on taking in so they can give it a thorough I inspection and service.


----------



## Flyersdude

Slim 1938 said:


> My 25" is making noises too. I plan on taking in so they can give it a thorough I inspection and service.


Does you come from the belt housing? I'm going to take the house and off and see if I can pinpoint exactly where it's coming from.

When getting service on these machines or diagnosing problems like that does that fall under warranty since it has two years residential? Is there a way to find authorized centers


----------



## Slim 1938

@Flyersdude I'm not sure exactly where it's coming from. It does it without anything engaged. The place I bought it does warranty repair.


----------



## Slim 1938

Update. I adjusted tensioners like others have said and it took care of all the noises. I do need to get a half link for the drive chain.


----------



## Steely

Where r u guys getting the 1/2 links from? I can't seem to find the correct size locally.


----------



## Slim 1938

I think my local coop carries them. Not sure where other guys are getting them. I know tractor supply has them.


----------



## GrassAndWater12

How often does everyone backlap, and is it something that can be done to much? I'm extra careful with the reel and have a debri free yard but it seems like the middle of the reel has a hard time cutting paper while the ends do fine.


----------



## Greendoc

schwa75 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> schwa75 said:
> 
> 
> 
> This thread is great! I have read all 36 pages and I'm ready to pull the trigger on a 20HO model. I have 10k sqft of zoysia in SWFL. It is currently mowed to 2" weekly. My lawn service's rotary does not do a good job, leaving swirls. They follow up with a walk behind bagger but I'm still not satisfied with the job.
> 
> What height would you guys cut the zoysia to? I plan to mow ever 3 to 4 days. Would you recommend a 5 or 7 blade reel? Grass will always be damp or wet when I have a chance to cut it.
> 
> Thanks for all the amazing input on this forum.
> 
> 
> 
> What type of zoysia do you have? Every three or four days is a great plan. You would be able to maintain it pretty low if there's a way she can handle it depending on variety.
> 
> Seven blade most likely.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @SGrabs33 I confirmed that I do have Empire. Looks like is is recommended to be maintained between 1" and 2.5". I would like to be on the 1" side of that. Given that should I purchase the HC model?
> 
> Last question, buy a Briggs model today or wait at least two months for a Honda?
Click to expand...

1"-.2.5" is rotary mower height. Maintenance height for wide bladed Zoysia types such as Empire or El Toro is between 0.5-0.75".


----------



## schwa75

Thanks @Greendoc !

I will go with the regular height trimmer then and work that Empire down to .75". I guess I will need to upgrade to a greens mower to get lower than that. Baby steps...


----------



## dubyadubya87

Eight hours in on my new mower and the tension belt is splitting. I've messaged my dealer, hopefully they'll make it right.


----------



## JML

dubyadubya87 said:


> Eight hours in on my new mower and the tension belt is splitting. I've messaged my dealer, hopefully they'll make it right.


The tensioner guide is pointing almost straight up, it should be parallel to the ground. That probably causing rubbing and belt destruction.


----------



## dubyadubya87

JML said:


> dubyadubya87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Eight hours in on my new mower and the tension belt is splitting. I've messaged my dealer, hopefully they'll make it right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tensioner guide is pointing almost straight up, it should be parallel to the ground. That probably causing rubbing and belt destruction.
Click to expand...

Which is the tensioner guide, please?


----------



## ellsbebc

dubyadubya87 said:


> JML said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dubyadubya87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Eight hours in on my new mower and the tension belt is splitting. I've messaged my dealer, hopefully they'll make it right.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tensioner guide is pointing almost straight up, it should be parallel to the ground. That probably causing rubbing and belt destruction.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Which is the tensioner guide, please?
Click to expand...


----------



## Steely

Notice the position of mine…


----------



## dubyadubya87

Steely said:


> Notice the position of mine…


No wonder! Thank you!


----------



## Meximusprime

@dubyadubya87 Some additional info in regards of position of Idler arm which seems to be in correct position while disengaged.


----------



## Slim 1938

I went to dealer I purchased my 25 CT from and bought a half link to shorten drive chain. I asked about bringing it in for a RTB adjustment and sharpening. He said he had 500 units to sharpen in front of me and it would be January before he could get to it. Wow!


----------



## Bendrix72

Hello, 1st time post and new to the forum here. I have Meyer Zoysia and would like to start using a California Trimmer reel mower next year. My question would be which mower should I get, the standard or high cut? I'd like to keep the HOF around 1 and half inches.

Any input would be great!


----------



## dubyadubya87

I have the high cut, but only because my back yard is St. Augustine. If you know you'll never mow higher than 1 and 7/8 inches, go with the low. You'll be able to mow down to 3/8" versus the high cut's lowest is 5/8".


----------



## BabsSB

Hey all,

Found an older cal trimmer on FB marketplace for $150. Seller says it's in good working order, and inspired by @Steely 's restoration, thinking I want to take the same project on.

Based on the images, is there anything that stands out to you that would suggest I'm in for a world of disappointment? I haven't seen another one yet with gas tank tucked behind the engine, so a little unnerved by that. Any feedback would be much appreciated.


----------



## Steely

It looks rough, but the reel looks like it still might have some life left. I would say the biggest question mark will be the engine. I don't see any visible spots that are rusted through. The great thing about Trimmers is that you can easily find parts that are reasonably priced. Maybe you could find a used Honda GX120 on FBM assuming it would work on that year.

I would offer $100 and see if they bite.

Good luck.


----------



## Jcm0241

BabsSB said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Found and older cal trimmer on FB marketplace for $150. Seller says it's in good working order, and inspired by @Steely 's restoration, thinking I want to take the same project on.
> 
> Based on the images, is there anything that stands out to you that would suggest I'm in for a world of disappointment? I haven't seen another one yet with gas tank tucked behind the engine, so a little unnerved by that. Any feedback would be much appreciated.


Looks pretty complete to me. Bonus for it having a front roller even though it's not grooved. Those aren't all that cheap if you were to buy one as an add-on later. The reel looks to have some life left which I think would be the biggest thing to look at. The motor can be swapped out with something from harbor freight, if you had to.

I bought mine for 250 in much better visual shape but I "had to" add the grooved roller and replace the roller chain guard, amongst a few other hardware items. I'd say go for it if you want a project.


----------



## BabsSB

Negotiated down and took the plunge. Everything totally working motor has started on first pull every time. It's clear the reel and roller aren't as old as the machine, and spark plug replaced sometime recently. Definitely needs to be sharpened, but all and all super happy about it. Time to get to work, thanks @Steely and @Jcm0241!


----------



## Jcm0241

BabsSB said:


> Negotiated down and took the plunge. Everything totally working motor has started on first pull every time. It's clear the reel and roller aren't as old as the machine, and spark plug replaced sometime recently. Definitely needs to be sharpened, but all and all super happy about it. Time to get to work, thanks @Steely and @Jcm0241!


Congrats! A little paint and back lap and she'll be ready to go.


----------



## Steely

Hey congrats. Enjoy the restore and make sure to share pictures.


----------



## Bendrix72

I've been debating about which engine to go with before I buy a California Trimmer this upcoming spring. I have a good slope in the front and back yard. I've read the Honda has a oil sensor that will shut off on slopes and other inclines. I've heard some folks add more oil to remedy this. I'm concerned about overfilling it. Does the Briggs have a similar sensor like the Honda?


----------



## Steely

I have an older Trimmer with the Honda GX-160 and some pretty good hills (~18 degree) and my Honda has never shut off for that reason.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

Bendrix72 said:


> I've been debating about which engine to go with before I buy a California Trimmer this upcoming spring. I have a good slope in the front and back yard. I've read the Honda has a oil sensor that will shut off on slopes and other inclines. I've heard some folks add more oil to remedy this. I'm concerned about overfilling it. Does the Briggs have a similar sensor like the Honda?


I have Trimmer from the 90s with a Honda motor and it has been very reliable. Starts on 1st pull, does not smoke, etc.

I would go with the Honda.


----------



## GrassAndWater12

Bendrix72 said:


> I've been debating about which engine to go with before I buy a California Trimmer this upcoming spring. I have a good slope in the front and back yard. I've read the Honda has a oil sensor that will shut off on slopes and other inclines. I've heard some folks add more oil to remedy this. I'm concerned about overfilling it. Does the Briggs have a similar sensor like the Honda?


The Briggs does not have the sensor you are referring to (or at least I haven't found it). I have the Briggs and I have no complaints whatsoever. However, I have recently worked on my neighbors Honda mower and I can tell a huge difference in build quality. If I didn't buy mine used I would've went with the Honda after digging in to it and seeing the quality.


----------



## Angel2289

This is my first post  I have a question for anyone that has had this issue with their cal trimmer, my 20 inch home owner model I've owned for about 3 years seems to always struggle with thick grass like the reel gets stuck and I have to pull machine back and pretty much go over multiple times, when I scalp for over seed it's really a pain, if anyone has any info would really appreciate it thanks you.. my grass is tifway 419 and I do use pgr so grass is dense,


----------



## Bendrix72

I just recently bought a new California Trimmer and added the handle extension. I'm trying to adjust the clutch. When I have the drive roller up and in engage the throttle the rear drum spins. Is this normal? And if not, any input would helpful. Thanks!


----------



## Reel_Alabama

It is normal. It spins anytime you engage the throttle. Raising it allows you to keep it from propelling the mower while still cutting.


----------



## Jcm0241

Did you mean engage the throttle or clutch?


----------



## Reel_Alabama

Clutch.


----------



## Bendrix72

My error....when I engage the clutch with the drive roller up, the rear drum spins. Is that normal? If not what adjustments should I make?


----------



## Jcm0241

Bendrix72 said:


> My error....when I engage the clutch with the drive roller up, the rear drum spins. Is that normal? If not what adjustments should I make?


It's normal.


----------



## AlaTex

Does anyone know where to find that part CT makes that shortens the lift chain? I can't seem to find it.


----------



## GrassAndWater12

If you are referring to this one contact Jim at:
[email protected]


----------



## AlaTex

GrassAndWater12 said:


> If you are referring to this one contact Jim at:
> [email protected]


That's the one. Much appreciated!


----------



## Steely

Has anyone ever tried adding a reel chain tensioner to older 20" HO models?

https://zampree.com/products/tensioner-chain?_pos=1&_sid=6ac4509a6&_ss=r

I would like to eliminate the chain slop but removing a link (or half link) doesn't seem to be a great option. I have tried and I can't find the 1/2" links for my older CT. Just thought the tensioner might be a better option.


----------



## JML

Steely said:


> Has anyone ever tried adding a reel chain tensioner to older 20" HO models?
> 
> https://zampree.com/products/tensioner-chain?_pos=1&_sid=6ac4509a6&_ss=r
> 
> I would like to eliminate the chain slop but removing a link (or half link) doesn't seem to be a great option. I have tried and I can't find the 1/2" links for my older CT. Just thought the tensioner might be a better option.


Look up "#41 half link". Most Ace hardware or tractor supply carry them. But yes, easy to do as long as your model has a hole drilled for one. You'll just need the bolt/but also, as the part generally doesn't come with it.

https://i.postimg.cc/Qt1QY5W6/96-BBC554-70-C7-42-C7-A578-CC07453577-DE.jpg


----------



## Steely

Thanks @JML. Mine currently does not have the hole drilled, but I'm willing to drill one in the frame.


----------



## Jcm0241

Steely said:


> Thanks @JML. Mine currently does not have the hole drilled, but I'm willing to drill one in the frame.


If you do, please post a pic of where you drill and put the tensioner. I actually bought a new #40 chain from Amazon and trimmed it to length, but I still feel like I have a 1/2 link too much.

Ps: mine is an older 20" commercial.


----------



## GrassAndWater12

I went through similar issues with my 20" HO. A half link made it to short and a full link made it have to much slack. Installed a tensioner and problem solved.

Here's where to drill:
1.25" straight above the left bedknife adjuster bolt and 0.75" diagonally from the axle mount bolt.


----------



## Steely

Thanks @GrassAndWater12 I'm going to give that a go. Appreciate the detailed pictures and measurements. I'll post my results once I do this.


----------



## Jcm0241

Is there any reason why a tensioner wouldn't work on the motor chain?


----------



## GrassAndWater12

Steely said:


> Thanks @GrassAndWater12 I'm going to give that a go. Appreciate the detailed pictures and measurements. I'll post my results once I do this.


Glad to help but I can't take full credit…. Jim at CT helped me with my chain issue.


----------



## JML

Jcm0241 said:


> Is there any reason why a tensioner wouldn't work on the motor chain?


It'll work as long as you have the tab on the frame to mount it. Some of the really early commercial models didn't have that tab; so you have to go the washers under the engine route.


----------



## JollyGreen

Question for the group….

How do you change the CT High Cut mower to a regular (low cut I guess) mower? Is it as easy as changing the connection point that the front roller attaches to (mine is at the lowest of three holes) or is it more than that?


----------



## JML

JollyGreen said:


> Question for the group….
> 
> How do you change the CT High Cut mower to a regular (low cut I guess) mower? Is it as easy as changing the connection point that the front roller attaches to (mine is at the lowest of three holes) or is it more than that?


Yes, that's it. Moving to the top hole will allow you to get down to 5/8"


----------



## JollyGreen

JML said:


> JollyGreen said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question for the group….
> 
> How do you change the CT High Cut mower to a regular (low cut I guess) mower? Is it as easy as changing the connection point that the front roller attaches to (mine is at the lowest of three holes) or is it more than that?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, that's it. Moving to the top hole will allow you to get down to 5/8"
Click to expand...

Thank you.


----------



## SGrabs33

JollyGreen said:


> Question for the group….
> 
> How do you change the CT High Cut mower to a regular (low cut I guess) mower? Is it as easy as changing the connection point that the front roller attaches to (mine is at the lowest of three holes) or is it more than that?


The high cut won't be able to switch to the standard version very easily. To get to the lowest HOC setting on you mower, like others have said, just make sure your roller is in the top hole on the frame. That will get you down to the lowest on the High Cut which is the 5/8"


----------



## Steely

GrassAndWater12 said:


> I went through similar issues with my 20" HO. A half link made it to short and a full link made it have to much slack. Installed a tensioner and problem solved.
> 
> Here's where to drill:
> 1.25" straight above the left bedknife adjuster bolt and 0.75" diagonally from the axle mount bolt.


I got my chain tensioner recently and finally drilled the hole tonight.


----------



## Flyersdude

What is the model number of a replacement belt for Standard Cut Cal Trimmer?


----------



## DavidBH

New User.
I just mowed for the first time with my new California Trimmer Reel Mower (Honda GX120 Engine). I have the following questions:

1) I stalled about 25 times (the engine stopped). Finally I moved the choke lever a bit while running and it seemed to improve things. Is this a common problem? Maybe it is just that I haven't run it very much yet.

2) How do I move the mower when the engine is off? It is very heavy and doesn't seem to roll very well. It "drags" rather than rolls.

3) Is there a way to have the mower move forward without the blade spinning? I have to go up over the drainage lip between the street and my yard. I am afraid to do that with the reel spinning. I don't want to hit the cement with the blade.

4)Since the mower doesn't move backwards, what is the technique to use when turning around? This seems quite difficult.

5)The mower doesn't seem to pickup lawn debris like a rotary lawn mower. Not many pine needles got swept into the catch-bin. In fact the catch-bin got very little of the grass trimmings either. Is that normal?

6) Have you found that using the mower is hard work? a) I have to lift up on the handles so the front doesn't come up and leave a bare spot. b) Keeping the throttle lever pressed in is a real test of grip.

7) I can't see where I mowed. I feel like I am mowing the same strip two and three times to be sure. How do you tell?

8) I've seen videos where the home owner mows the lawn twice: Once vertically and once at a 45% angle from the vertical. Is there a reason to do this?


----------



## JML

Flyersdude said:


> What is the model number of a replacement belt for Standard Cut Cal Trimmer?


2180 aka 4L180

Zampree.com is a great site for parts and diagrams. Except for belts- much cheaper on Amazon or locally. I believe they're owned by CalTrimmer or atleast operate out of the same warehouse.


----------



## JML

DavidBH said:


> New User.
> I just mowed for the first time with my new California Trimmer Reel Mower (Honda GX120 Engine). I have the following questions:
> 
> 1) I stalled about 25 times (the engine stopped). Finally I moved the choke lever a bit while running and it seemed to improve things. Is this a common problem? Maybe it is just that I haven't run it very much yet.
> 
> 2) How do I move the mower when the engine is off? It is very heavy and doesn't seem to roll very well. It "drags" rather than rolls.
> 
> 3) Is there a way to have the mower move forward without the blade spinning? I have to go up over the drainage lip between the street and my yard. I am afraid to do that with the reel spinning. I don't want to hit the cement with the blade.
> 
> 4)Since the mower doesn't move backwards, what is the technique to use when turning around? This seems quite difficult.
> 
> 5)The mower doesn't seem to pickup lawn debris like a rotary lawn mower. Not many pine needles got swept into the catch-bin. In fact the catch-bin got very little of the grass trimmings either. Is that normal?
> 
> 6) Have you found that using the mower is hard work? a) I have to lift up on the handles so the front doesn't come up and leave a bare spot. b) Keeping the throttle lever pressed in is a real test of grip.
> 
> 7) I can't see where I mowed. I feel like I am mowing the same strip two and three times to be sure. How do you tell?
> 
> 8) I've seen videos where the home owner mows the lawn twice: Once vertically and once at a 45% angle from the vertical. Is there a reason to do this?


1) Shouldn't stall. Clean the carb or replace it completely for $15.
2) Make sure you lift the rear drive roller when your trying to push it. The wheels are on a clutch and free sprin, so there shouldn't be any dragging.
3)There is not. You can raise up the front roller/wheels and tip the handle back.
4) I think #2 will help with this. Raise the roller drum. Tip the handle back and spin.
5 & 7) Seems like you're cutting higher than you want. Lowering the height of cut will help. A lot of people will swap the front wheels for a roller that helps stripe the lawn. This will help prevent scalping the lawn as you don't have a wheel falling into a divot/low spot in the lawn. Ie. Everything is smooth and you can tell which direction you mowed.
6) It definitely takes a month or so of mowing to get the hang of it. You shouldn't have to raise the handle up. Get a socket to tighten the nut on the throttle lever and it will stay put.
8) it looks pretty


----------



## sa1126

Has anyone had issues with their cal trim chains? I have an RL20 set to the lowest cut height which raises the back quite a bit. I think it threw off the geometry of the drive and the chain keeps coming off. I replaced the chain after it broke but it keeps coming off, and I have not heard anything back from california trimmer.


----------



## Jcm0241

Anyone know of a place in dfw that works on Cali trimmers? I had an entirely too loose drive chain.. Ended up popping off and breaking the 9 tooth sprocket (split it in half) and who knows what else? I've ordered a replacement sprocket and chain but I imagine I did more damage than just that.


----------



## SGrabs33

sa1126 said:


> Has anyone had issues with their cal trim chains? I have an RL20 set to the lowest cut height which raises the back quite a bit. I think it threw off the geometry of the drive and the chain keeps coming off. I replaced the chain after it broke but it keeps coming off, and I have not heard anything back from california trimmer.


You talking about the chain for the drive roller? You can loosen the nuts on the sides of the roller and the set screw. They will allow you to pull the roller back to tighten the chain.


----------



## SGrabs33

Jcm0241 said:


> Anyone know of a place in dfw that works on Cali trimmers? I had an entirely too loose drive chain.. Ended up popping off and breaking the 9 tooth sprocket (split it in half) and who knows what else? I've ordered a replacement sprocket and chain but I imagine I did more damage than just that.


Take some pics. I can try and help.


----------



## Gergrass

Is it normal for the red paint on the reel to start peeling off at some point? I did a scalp a week ago, and noticed the red paint on the reel starting to peel off. Any thoughts would be helpful. Thanks.


----------



## SGrabs33

Gergrass said:


> Is it normal for the red paint on the reel to start peeling off at some point? I did a scalp a week ago, and noticed the red paint on the reel starting to peel off. Any thoughts would be helpful. Thanks.


Yes that's pretty normal. Especially if you get it wet occasionally either washing the mower or cutting wet grass.


----------



## Gergrass

Makes sense. Silly me-grass was damp when I did the scalp. Thanks for the feedback...much appreciated.


----------



## Jcm0241

SGrabs33 said:


> Jcm0241 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know of a place in dfw that works on Cali trimmers? I had an entirely too loose drive chain.. Ended up popping off and breaking the 9 tooth sprocket (split it in half) and who knows what else? I've ordered a replacement sprocket and chain but I imagine I did more damage than just that.
> 
> 
> 
> Take some pics. I can try and help.
Click to expand...

Nothing really to take a picture of. Just missing the sprocket off of the motor and the chain. Is there anything in the drive axle. I had the wrong size chain on it for sure. However I've now brought directly from zampree and hoping it arrives tomorrow. Will report back.


----------



## SGrabs33

Jcm0241 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jcm0241 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know of a place in dfw that works on Cali trimmers? I had an entirely too loose drive chain.. Ended up popping off and breaking the 9 tooth sprocket (split it in half) and who knows what else? I've ordered a replacement sprocket and chain but I imagine I did more damage than just that.
> 
> 
> 
> Take some pics. I can try and help.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nothing really to take a picture of. Just missing the sprocket off of the motor and the chain. Is there anything in the drive axle. I had the wrong size chain on it for sure. However I've now brought directly from zampree and hoping it arrives tomorrow. Will report back.
Click to expand...

You said you thought you did more damage so I thought I'd look. Reel mower guy, is the name of a dealer in DFW I believe.


----------



## Jcm0241

SGrabs33 said:


> Jcm0241 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Take some pics. I can try and help.
> 
> 
> 
> Nothing really to take a picture of. Just missing the sprocket off of the motor and the chain. Is there anything in the drive axle. I had the wrong size chain on it for sure. However I've now brought directly from zampree and hoping it arrives tomorrow. Will report back.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> You said you thought you did more damage so I thought I'd look. Reel mower guy, is the name of a dealer in DFW I believe.
Click to expand...

Here are a couple pics. Sorry for the poor quality. Hard spot to take a picture of from the top. What I think happened before the motor sprocket blew apart was the chain on the axle somehow became sideways (how? I don't know). It sure looked like the axle was bending in the middle. It was all a very weird chain of events. No pun I tended.


----------



## Jcm0241

Here's a video of what I'm dealing with


----------



## Pixelmaestro

I have created a label that will allow a quick reference for the height of the cut. The plan is to 3D print the decal in two colors. A white base with black text. Let me know if you think it could be useful, and I will post a photo of the prototype.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

@Pixelmaestro 
I like it!


----------



## Slim 1938

@Pixelmaestro Nice! Great idea.


----------



## dubyadubya87

@Pixelmaestro that would be handy! I second guess my counting two or three times after referring to the chart in the manual.


----------



## SGrabs33

Pixelmaestro said:


> I have created a label that will allow a quick reference for the height of the cut. The plan is to 3D print the decal in two colors. A white base with black text. Let me know if you think it could be useful, and I will post a photo of the prototype.


Very cool!


----------



## Pixelmaestro

I am having a one off prototype produced. I will take a photo with it placed on my mower. Switched it up to full color to blend in with the traditional paint scheme.


----------



## Twangin

I've been heavily researching the 25" CT versus the 27" McLane.. they both seems to be VERY similar but for the most part I see more love for the CT.. any thoughts on one versus the other? Goal HOC would be 1/2" to 1.5".. Bermuda, and a very important feature being able to switch between HOC's very quickly.


----------



## dubyadubya87

Twangin said:


> I've been heavily researching the 25" CT versus the 27" McLane.. they both seems to be VERY similar but for the most part I see more love for the CT.. any thoughts on one versus the other? Goal HOC would be 1/2" to 1.5".. Bermuda, and a very important feature being able to switch between HOC's very quickly.


I heavily researched both as well. What mostly tipped me to my CT was the High-Cut version but also that there seemed to be more manufacturer support versus McClane.


----------



## Jcm0241

Anyone know what this piece is/does on my new shaft?


----------



## Steely

Pixelmaestro said:


> I have created a label that will allow a quick reference for the height of the cut. The plan is to 3D print the decal in two colors. A white base with black text. Let me know if you think it could be useful, and I will post a photo of the prototype.


Great idea. I would love to have something like this. How big will the decal be?


----------



## Spammage

Jcm0241 said:


> Anyone know what this piece is/does on my new shaft?


Interesting. I don't know, but would guess that is a "set screw" type that would allow you to line up the other small sprocket with the existing one.


----------



## TifTufTrent

@Pixelmaestro

Great idea and I'm buying if you're selling. Also, do those measurements assume the roller is in the middle or top hole?

Thanks!


----------



## SGrabs33

Twangin said:


> I've been heavily researching the 25" CT versus the 27" McLane.. they both seems to be VERY similar but for the most part I see more love for the CT.. any thoughts on one versus the other? Goal HOC would be 1/2" to 1.5".. Bermuda, and a very important feature being able to switch between HOC's very quickly.


Disclaimer, I sell Trimmers.

Mclane is lighter and easier to maneuver manually. It also has a dead man's lever if your interested in that. Mclane min height, unless you spend an addition $200 on a different roller from reel rollers is .75".

Trimmer is beefier and parts are cheaper. The clutch locks in which is better for longer, wide open stretches but not as easy if you have a lot of maneuvering to do around trees and whatnot. Height of cut is easier to change on the trimmer and there are more notches.

Let me know if there are any other questions I can help answer!


----------



## LawnGeek

So, I back lapped my machine yesterday and went to put the drive chain back on and it was super tight. The tensioner was barely even able to press into the chain. Not sure what happened. I made some adjustments in the sprockets, to try and make some slack and was able to do so. But the chain still seemed tighter than normal. Put it all back together, started and engaged the reel and the mower vibrated and made a clicking sound. Clicking really fast though, almost a buzz. Adjusting the reel couldn't have reduced slack in that chain, could it? Totally perplexed as to how i lost slack in the chain!


----------



## SGrabs33

LawnGeek said:


> So, I back lapped my machine yesterday and went to put the drive chain back on and it was super tight. The tensioner was barely even able to press into the chain. Not sure what happened. I made some adjustments in the sprockets, to try and make some slack and was able to do so. But the chain still seemed tighter than normal. Put it all back together, started and engaged the reel and the mower vibrated and made a clicking sound. Clicking really fast though, almost a buzz. Adjusting the reel couldn't have reduced slack in that chain, could it? Totally perplexed as to how i lost slack in the chain!


Yeah backlapping shouldn't have lost your slack. Not too sure what that could have been. Guessing clocking might be one end of the reel hitting the bedknife? Or can you tell it's from that chain side? Share a picture if you can.


----------



## Twangin

SGrabs33 said:


> Twangin said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been heavily researching the 25" CT versus the 27" McLane.. they both seems to be VERY similar but for the most part I see more love for the CT.. any thoughts on one versus the other? Goal HOC would be 1/2" to 1.5".. Bermuda, and a very important feature being able to switch between HOC's very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> Disclaimer, I sell Trimmers.
> 
> Mclane is lighter and easier to maneuver manually. It also has a dead man's lever if your interested in that. Mclane min height, unless you spend an addition $200 on a different roller from reel rollers is .75".
> 
> Trimmer is beefier and parts are cheaper. The clutch locks in which is better for longer, wide open stretches but not as easy if you have a lot of maneuvering to do around trees and whatnot. Height of cut is easier to change on the trimmer and there are more notches.
> 
> Let me know if there are any other questions I can help answer!
Click to expand...

Thanks man! I think we may have already been messaging back and forth on Instagram recently regarding the CT. May try and swing by your shop to test one out once I get closer to ready to buy.


----------



## SGrabs33

Twangin said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Twangin said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've been heavily researching the 25" CT versus the 27" McLane.. they both seems to be VERY similar but for the most part I see more love for the CT.. any thoughts on one versus the other? Goal HOC would be 1/2" to 1.5".. Bermuda, and a very important feature being able to switch between HOC's very quickly.
> 
> 
> 
> Disclaimer, I sell Trimmers.
> 
> Mclane is lighter and easier to maneuver manually. It also has a dead man's lever if your interested in that. Mclane min height, unless you spend an addition $200 on a different roller from reel rollers is .75".
> 
> Trimmer is beefier and parts are cheaper. The clutch locks in which is better for longer, wide open stretches but not as easy if you have a lot of maneuvering to do around trees and whatnot. Height of cut is easier to change on the trimmer and there are more notches.
> 
> Let me know if there are any other questions I can help answer!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks man! I think we may have already been messaging back and forth on Instagram recently regarding the CT. May try and swing by your shop to test one out once I get closer to ready to buy.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a plan, happy to help!


----------



## sa1126

Does anyone with a roller installed constantly have issues with it getting stuck after using? I always have to use WD40 before each cut or else it will just drag and cause the mower to move erratically. Can I clean or grease something to avoid this?


----------



## SGrabs33

sa1126 said:


> Does anyone with a roller installed constantly have issues with it getting stuck after using? I always have to use WD40 before each cut or else it will just drag and cause the mower to move erratically. Can I clean or grease something to avoid this?


You can try lubing them but they are sealed bearings so you might have to order some and replace them. It's not too hard to do. Sometimes WD40 will get them rolling again well but probably isn't a long term solution.

How old is your roller and where did you buy it from?


----------



## sa1126

SGrabs33 said:


> sa1126 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone with a roller installed constantly have issues with it getting stuck after using? I always have to use WD40 before each cut or else it will just drag and cause the mower to move erratically. Can I clean or grease something to avoid this?
> 
> 
> 
> You can try lubing them but they are sealed bearings so you might have to order some and replace them. It's not too hard to do. Sometimes WD40 will get them rolling again well but probably isn't a long term solution.
> 
> How old is your roller and where did you buy it from?
Click to expand...

I use WD40 every time and that works but it is annoying. I have had my mower < 1 year so I am not sure where the roller came from, but I do not think it is older than ~3 years or so.


----------



## DFW245

Any trimmer sellers in the DFW area? Can't ever seem to get up close to one to feel it out


----------



## dubyadubya87

DFW245 said:


> Any trimmer sellers in the DFW area? Can't ever seem to get up close to one to feel it out


Reel Lawn Guy in Sunnyvale sold me mine.


----------



## Dad_Who_Mows_Best

dubyadubya87 said:


> DFW245 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any trimmer sellers in the DFW area? Can't ever seem to get up close to one to feel it out
> 
> 
> 
> Reel Lawn Guy in Sunnyvale sold me mine.
Click to expand...

Ditto https://reellawnguy.com/ Buddy sold mine to me, he's amazing!


----------



## Blake_DFWlawn

Dad_Who_Mows_Best said:


> dubyadubya87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DFW245 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any trimmer sellers in the DFW area? Can't ever seem to get up close to one to feel it out
> 
> 
> 
> Reel Lawn Guy in Sunnyvale sold me mine.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ditto https://reellawnguy.com/ Buddy sold mine to me, he's amazing!
Click to expand...

Agree. Buddy sold mine to me last spring. He's great. Came out to deliver the mower and gave me a crash course. Here I am 1 year later with 5 yards of sand in the driveway. Enjoy!


----------



## DFW245

Thanks for all the helps guys, I'll be looking into this heavily today.


----------



## falconsfan

Need some help from the CT community. I'm a tru cut owner but my neighbor has asked for some help selling his CT. He can no longer mow so it has to go. I started it on the first pull and I know it was sharpened last summer and not used much since then. Looks to be 20 inch and he has the catcher, backlap tool and some compound too.

Anyone care to ballpark a fair price? I have no idea what it's worth. Thanks in advance.


----------



## spud

So I had my bed knife replaced this spring. Now I have real issues going up hills without getting stuck or slowed down with significant rear wheel slippage (on the grass).

I think that the bed knife is acting like a shovel and pushing the grass creating resistance. This did not happen with my old bed knife, maybe because of less shovel shape from years of wear and sharpening. I don't know.

Having emerald zoysia and trying to cut in the am before it gets hot with wet (dew) grass does not help...

I'm cutting at 16mm now but this seems to happen no matter the cutting height. I don't think I have excess thatch either.

Has anybody else had this issue or have any suggestions?


----------



## DFW245

falconsfan said:


> Need some help from the CT community. I'm a tru cut owner but my neighbor has asked for some help selling his CT. He can no longer mow so it has to go. I started it on the first pull and I know it was sharpened last summer and not used much since then. Looks to be 20 inch and he has the catcher, backlap tool and some compound too.
> 
> Anyone care to ballpark a fair price? Thanks in advance.


Ahh this sounds so good. But I know I can't afford it/offer something respectable. So I'll just sit here n wish I could lol


----------



## LawnGeek

spud said:


> So I had my bed knife replaced this spring. Now I have real issues going up hills without getting stuck or slowed down with significant rear wheel slippage (on the grass).
> 
> I think that the bed knife is acting like a shovel and pushing the grass creating resistance. This did not happen with my old bed knife, maybe because of less shovel shape from years of wear and sharpening. I don't know.
> 
> Having emerald zoysia and trying to cut in the am before it gets hot with wet (dew) grass does not help...
> 
> I'm cutting at 16mm now but this seems to happen no matter the cutting height. I don't think I have excess thatch either.
> 
> Has anybody else had this issue or have any suggestions?


I literally just had this experience an hour ago. I fought my bedknife all day Saturday, that sucker was rusted in place! Anyway, I just mowed my easement strip, to test out the cut, and noticed how difficult it is to keep it going. It keeps getting caught. I assumed that I had something wrong, but then thought about how the new bedknife might be a little thicker than the old, worn one. A buddy of mine has a brand new one. I called and asked him and he confirmed that it is very difficult to push when set very low.


----------



## LawnGeek

SGrabs33 said:


> LawnGeek said:
> 
> 
> 
> So, I back lapped my machine yesterday and went to put the drive chain back on and it was super tight. The tensioner was barely even able to press into the chain. Not sure what happened. I made some adjustments in the sprockets, to try and make some slack and was able to do so. But the chain still seemed tighter than normal. Put it all back together, started and engaged the reel and the mower vibrated and made a clicking sound. Clicking really fast though, almost a buzz. Adjusting the reel couldn't have reduced slack in that chain, could it? Totally perplexed as to how i lost slack in the chain!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah backlapping shouldn't have lost your slack. Not too sure what that could have been. Guessing clocking might be one end of the reel hitting the bedknife? Or can you tell it's from that chain side? Share a picture if you can.
Click to expand...

After changing out my bedknife I had to adjust my reel, since the new bedknife is thicker than the worn out one. So I adjusted the reel up, to compensate, and lo and behold I got my chain slack back. And then some. So, when you adjust your reel down, to get closer the the knife, the reel drive chain gets tighter. When you adjust the reel up (off of the knife) your chain will get loose. Don't ask me why, though! lol. I think the buzzing sound was the tight chain wrapping on the sprocket. It's gone now, so it had to be that chain causing that sound.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

So this happened when cutting the lawn last week. The reel hit the edge of my driveway. I am pretty confident that this cannot be repaired. So I thought about doing a whole restoration on it since I have to take it apart to put in a new reel and bedknife. Should I stick with the original color or something else? What color do you suggest?


----------



## Mak725

Can a 5 blade cal trimmer blade be swapped out to be a 7 blade?


----------



## Dono1183

falconsfan said:


> Need some help from the CT community. I'm a tru cut owner but my neighbor has asked for some help selling his CT. He can no longer mow so it has to go. I started it on the first pull and I know it was sharpened last summer and not used much since then. Looks to be 20 inch and he has the catcher, backlap tool and some compound too.
> 
> Anyone care to ballpark a fair price? I have no idea what it's worth. Thanks in advance.


@falconsfan, I bought my Cal Trimmer this February. It was used, from FB Marketplace. It was in good condition, (needed some maintenance stuff by choice) and has the B&S engine on it. I paid $800. I've seen them around that price fairly consistently. I would wage an extra $100 for the Honda engine would go over easily. I can't really tell if it has a front roller or not, but if it doesn't, I would say you can knock off $100. I've also seen these for $1,200, but that wasn't something I was willing to spend for a used mower as the new ones are not much more than that. I hope this helps.


----------



## falconsfan

@Dono1183 thanks for the info, it does have the roller so I have it priced at $750


----------



## cfinden

Hi All, I'm now a proud owner of a used 20" Caltrimmer home version, see pic below.

I changed the oil and replaced the carb and air filter on the Honda GX120, and now it runs great.

Backlapped the reel and now it cuts paper, however it is fairly tight.. it can still be turned by hand.

One thing I've noticed is when I start the engine cold, let it warm up a bit, then engage the reel/drive the engine stalls immediately. I tried moving the reel by hand and I can barely move it. Is that normal? Maybe the clutch is too tight?


See video of the reel running, does it sound OK to you guys?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HmUKqxAkn6Jtx9Q67


----------



## SGrabs33

cfinden said:


> Hi All, I'm now a proud owner of a used 20" Caltrimmer home version, see pic below.
> 
> I changed the oil and replaced the carb and air filter on the Honda GX120, and now it runs great.
> 
> Backlapped the reel and now it cuts paper, however it is fairly tight.. it can still be turned by hand.
> 
> One thing I've noticed is when I start the engine cold, let it warm up a bit, then engage the reel/drive the engine stalls immediately. I tried moving the reel by hand and I can barely move it. Is that normal? Maybe the clutch is too tight?
> 
> 
> See video of the reel running, does it sound OK to you guys?
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/HmUKqxAkn6Jtx9Q67


Is it belt driven?

It should be relatively easy to spin by hand. Unless it's the chain driven model.


----------



## cfinden

SGrabs33 said:


> cfinden said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi All, I'm now a proud owner of a used 20" Caltrimmer home version, see pic below.
> 
> I changed the oil and replaced the carb and air filter on the Honda GX120, and now it runs great.
> 
> Backlapped the reel and now it cuts paper, however it is fairly tight.. it can still be turned by hand.
> 
> One thing I've noticed is when I start the engine cold, let it warm up a bit, then engage the reel/drive the engine stalls immediately. I tried moving the reel by hand and I can barely move it. Is that normal? Maybe the clutch is too tight?
> 
> 
> See video of the reel running, does it sound OK to you guys?
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/HmUKqxAkn6Jtx9Q67
> 
> 
> 
> Is it belt driven?
> 
> It should be relatively easy to spin by hand. Unless it's the chain driven model.
Click to expand...

Would the belt be under the top metal cover right next to the engine?

I see 3 chains moving when I manually try to move the reel.


----------



## Spammage

Tough to say for sure from that picture, but it appears all of the relief is gone from the reel. Might need someone to grind the reel and bedknife for you.


----------



## cfinden

@Spammage That sounds bad? What is the relief? Here's another pic:


----------



## Spammage

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2079&hilit=Relief+or+spin


----------



## spud

spud said:


> So I had my bed knife replaced this spring. Now I have real issues going up hills without getting stuck or slowed down with significant rear wheel slippage (on the grass).
> 
> I think that the bed knife is acting like a shovel and pushing the grass creating resistance. This did not happen with my old bed knife, maybe because of less shovel shape from years of wear and sharpening. I don't know.
> 
> Having emerald zoysia and trying to cut in the am before it gets hot with wet (dew) grass does not help...
> 
> I'm cutting at 16mm now but this seems to happen no matter the cutting height. I don't think I have excess thatch either.
> 
> Has anybody else had this issue or have any suggestions?


So I took the mower into the workshop for a quick backlap and noticed the U-bolt holding the left side of the drive wheel had slipped and the wheel was canted 20 degrees or so. I fixed it and now I'm able to go uphill again.

Just thought I'd post the good news.


----------



## SGrabs33

Cross post for those interested in a NEW Split Grooved California Trimmer roller with TLF Discount and Giveaway!





If you have any questions please ask them on the post above as I don't want to litter this thread with too many posts.

Thanks!


----------



## Dono1183

I bought a used cal trimmer this past winter, and I don't have much experience with maintaining this type of equipment. I would like to lube and grease the mower, but really don't know where to start. Does anyone have a reference to proper lubrication and greasing points? Thanks in advance, I appreciate your help!


----------



## SGrabs33

Dono1183 said:


> I bought a used cal trimmer this past winter, and I don't have much experience with maintaining this type of equipment. I would like to lube and grease the mower, but really don't know where to start. Does anyone have a reference to proper lubrication and greasing points? Thanks in advance, I appreciate your help!


Which model do you have? 20" or 25"? Homeowner or pro? Can post some pics and I will know.


----------



## Dono1183

I have a 20" home owner model with the Briggs&Stratton engine. Thanks @SGrabs33! Edit: (not High Cut either)


----------



## SGrabs33

Dono1183 said:


> I have a 20" home owner model with the Briggs&Stratton engine. Thanks @SGrabs33! Edit: (not High Cut either)


Nice machine!

Get a great gun like this. This one is overkill as far as quality and price goes but you can find a similar one in the $30 range.

LockNLube Heavy Duty Pistol-Grip Grease Gun. Includes our patented LockNLube® Grease Coupler (locks on, stays on, won't leak!) plus a high-quality 20" hose and in-line hose swivel. https://a.co/d/cG2h7QE

There is a zero grease fitting at each end of the reel. Then one on each wheel also.

Then just a spray lube like This for all the chains.

DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver Dry Self-Cleaning Lubricant https://a.co/d/dGUhiyb

Clean off air filter with a vac occasionally.

Change the oil.

Backlap to sharpen. That should cover it


----------



## Dono1183

SGrabs33 said:


> Dono1183 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 20" home owner model with the Briggs&Stratton engine. Thanks @SGrabs33! Edit: (not High Cut either)
> 
> 
> 
> Nice machine!
> 
> Get a great gun like this. This one is overkill as far as quality and price goes but you can find a similar one in the $30 range.
> 
> LockNLube Heavy Duty Pistol-Grip Grease Gun. Includes our patented LockNLube® Grease Coupler (locks on, stays on, won't leak!) plus a high-quality 20" hose and in-line hose swivel. https://a.co/d/cG2h7QE
> 
> There is a zero grease fitting at each end of the reel. Then one on each wheel also.
> 
> Then just a spray lube like This for all the chains.
> 
> DuPont Teflon Chain-Saver Dry Self-Cleaning Lubricant https://a.co/d/dGUhiyb
> 
> Clean off air filter with a vac occasionally.
> 
> Change the oil.
> 
> Backlap to sharpen. That should cover it
Click to expand...

Thanks @SGrabs33! I replaced the air filter, and oil when I bought it. So far it's been great to work on. I recently leveled, so I'm planning on backlapping soon, now that the grass has gotten close to fully recovering.

On another note, the front roller makes a lot noise as it rolls. Is there a way to lubricate that? Or is it a case of the bearings going bad? Thanks again!


----------



## SGrabs33

@Dono1183 you can spray some of the chain save lube down by the bearings. It may help some but they are sealed bearings and may need replaced it the doesn't help much.


----------



## Dono1183

SGrabs33 said:


> @Dono1183 you can spray some of the chain save lube down by the bearings. It may help some but they are sealed bearings and may need replaced it the doesn't help much.


Sounds good. Thanks again, really appreciate the help!


----------



## Gizmo

First cut with the new Cal Trimmer 20" today. I'm really pleased with the cut. Can't wait to get it down to 3/4" over a few cuts.

I have two issues that I'm trying to solve:

1. There is a little grinding after I release the clutch when the reel is slowing to a stop. I adjusted the reel/bedknife a little. Slightly better, still a small amount of grinding. Should I backlap? Possibly a burr? Will it go away over time?

2. I'm having a hell of a time turning the mower with the clutch disengaged and the drive wheel up. I can maneuver it easily on concrete when on or off, but on the grass it takes some serious effort to turn it with the clutch off even when the drive wheel is up. Do I need to adjust the drive wheel height or anything?

Can't wait to dial this thing in a little bit. It cuts so much better than my rotary.


----------



## Gizmo

*Update:* the 20" comes with the chain harness and pins to adjust the chain for the drive roller. That was nice of them. I've raised up the roller a bit. Will see if that helps with turning while the clutch is disengaged and the roller is up while on the grass.

My first mow was on the second highest setting, and I believe that influenced the whole thing.


----------



## Gizmo

*Update:* Both of my issues appear to be resolved.

For the slight grinding noise, I slightly adjusted the bed knife/reel distance and mowed when a little wet. No more grinding.

For the difficulty turning with the clutch engaged and wheel up, I raised the drive roller (mine came equipped with the new adjustable chain). Lowering the HOC helps too, but since I've been lowering gradually, I had to raise the drive roller.

Now, all is well.


----------



## Theycallmemrr

Has anyone ever used an aftermarket reel for their trimmer? I recently broke my when the reel caught the edge of the driveway. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CBL4Y3...olid=37KJS5VQTIX61&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it


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## Gizmo

I just got mine, so no. But I've seen this store pop up several times in my searches for accessories...

https://www.singlecylinderstore.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=california%20trimmer%20blade

They seem to have all the sizes/varieties.


----------



## AlaTex

I discovered my belt is tearing. Is there a non OEM belt I can purchase asap? I'm leaving town tomorrow and would prefer to get it replaced today instead of having to order one.


----------



## SGrabs33

AlaTex said:
 

> I discovered my belt is tearing. Is there a non OEM belt I can purchase asap? I'm leaving town tomorrow and would prefer to get it replaced today instead of having to order one.


How old is the belt? Any idea why it's breaking? 
Gates 6818 or…
4L180


----------



## AlaTex

Belt's only 15 months old. I'm thinking when I added the handle extension last summer I probably didn't have the belt alignment right.

Thanks for the info. I'll see if anyone local carries it.


----------



## Erickson89

Hi everyone! Got my '95 commercial Cal Trimmer fixed up a couple weeks ago. All new wheels, chains, bed knife, etc.

I've used the mower extensively to cut the grass the last couple weeks with no issues. However, I was doing a scalp HOC reset to start mowing reel low. The chain on the drum roller has been slipping off. It's happening when I turn the machine around to make the next pass. I'm still learning to not tilt the machine back slightly to make the turn so I can only assume the drum is hitting the ground and causing tension/lateral force on the chain.

Any idea why this would be happening and what I can do to fix it?


----------



## JML

Erickson89 said:


> The chain on the drum roller has been slipping off. It's happening when I turn the machine around to make the next pass. I'm still learning to not tilt the machine back slightly to make the turn so I can only assume the drum is hitting the ground and causing tension/lateral force on the chain.
> 
> Any idea why this would be happening and what I can do to fix it?


Sounds like 2 different issues. First sounds like the bolts holding the drum in place have loosened and the drum is sliding forward. Loosen these, pull back on the drum till the chain is tight, ensure it's parallel and re-tighten.



The drum dragging is due to the drum lift chain being too long. You can either use some sting zip ties, some people have used a long skinny bolt/nuts, or they make an adapter. Just take up a couple links and you should be good. It's more likely to occur when cutting at a very high HOC because the front roller/casters have caused the mower to be higher in the front (pitched back) and the drive drum no longer fully off the ground when lifted.


----------



## rllynch1

Recently bought this used, so not sure of what prior maintenance has been done, or even when the belt was last replaced.

It seems to be struggling to cut the thicker part of my yard without bogging down(recently sodded a section). I took the cover off and found that this chain seems a bit loose - does it look like it to y'all as well? If so, what is my next step? Take a link out?

FWIW, I don't think I need a clutch adjustment as it cuts just fine in the thinner part of my yard and it doesn't spin without me engaging the clutch.

https://imgur.com/gallery/ikB1YRc


----------



## BruceAlmighty22

Anyone added lights to their mower? I was thinking about adding some battery powered LED lights.


----------



## Erickson89

So it was the nuts on the brass lever that tightens down drive shaft and helps engage the clutch that were loose causing the chain to slip. My clutch was engaging even though it was disengaged. Once I got those nuts tightened all was good! 


JML said:


> Erickson89 said:
> 
> 
> 
> The chain on the drum roller has been slipping off. It's happening when I turn the machine around to make the next pass. I'm still learning to not tilt the machine back slightly to make the turn so I can only assume the drum is hitting the ground and causing tension/lateral force on the chain.
> 
> Any idea why this would be happening and what I can do to fix it?
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds like 2 different issues. First sounds like the bolts holding the drum in place have loosened and the drum is sliding forward. Loosen these, pull back on the drum till the chain is tight, ensure it's parallel and re-tighten.
> 
> 
> 
> The drum dragging is due to the drum lift chain being too long. You can either use some sting zip ties, some people have used a long skinny bolt/nuts, or they make an adapter. Just take up a couple links and you should be good. It's more likely to occur when cutting at a very high HOC because the front roller/casters have caused the mower to be higher in the front (pitched back) and the drive drum no longer fully off the ground when lifted.
Click to expand...


----------



## Erickson89

Anyone know the exact height of cut measurements for a '95 commercial mower with a roller attached? I'm having a hell of a time measuring it and not seeing information on the older commercial mowers. Thank you in advance.


----------



## WannaBeGreensKeeper

I just bought my first reel mower, CT used 20" homeowner with a B&S engine and 5 blades (I live in the PNW with cool season grass). Based on the serial number it is a '78, but is in good condition despite being 44 years old. That said, I'm starting to think about routine maintenance such as frequency of lubing bearings and such and am looking for guidance on where the lube points are.


----------



## Slim 1938

For those of us that have a commercial 25" this video I ran across on YT really helps understand reel adjustment since it's different than home owners. 
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SM9DLrWPsXk


----------



## johnnyutahco23

Hi all, considering a cal trimmer for my lawn. 2 questions.

Can the cal trimmer classic 20" be used as a push mower in tight spots that need slower and more movability?

I have just under 1k sq ft. Lawn. Is it even work it to get one of these or should I just get a manual push reel mower?


----------



## Steely

Yes, with my 1985 HO model I can manually push the mower as needed. I often times do this on my perimeter pass without the rear wheel drum engaged or dropped.


----------



## Jcm0241

Steely said:


> Yes, with my 1985 HO model I can manually push the mower as needed. I often times do this on my perimeter pass without the rear wheel drum engaged or dropped.


Mine is the same year but commercial, and I do this as well. Do you notice that pushing it results in it cutting a little lower? I have wiggle room at the bracket for the front roller


----------



## Steely

Maybe a little bit because I'm putting a forward motion to the front roller by manually pushing vs. the roller wanting to lift the front end.


----------



## darina99611

jbrown said:


> http://caltrimmer.com
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a California Trimmer reel mower and have a question about working on it? Do you have something to share? Ask or share here.


my brother has been using it for a month and he likes it


----------



## Cody_S

If I set the HOC under 3/4" the sides are dragging. With the drive wheel raised up its scraping to a point where it won't even free roll down the drive. I really want to reset HOC to maintain at 3/4", but that means I need to get to the 5/8" level to reset first.

Any ideas why it's doing this? According the manual I should be able to now under a half inch and that's definitely not happening how it's set right now.

Thank you all in advance for the help!


----------



## DavidBH

In early April of this year (2022), I purchased the California Trimmer Reel Mower (Honda GX120 Engine) 20-inch, with the roller attachment. I bought it new and have mowed for a total of 9.5 hours. I am still a somewhat inexperienced user. I mow with the blade at a height of 1.5 inches (from a level surface to the bottom of the spinning blades). 
I am finally getting used to the fact that the only effective way to move the mower is at full power with the blade spinning. I tip the mower up so the blade doesn't hit the driveway etc.

I have questions on the following issues: 
1.	I use only ethanol-free gas in the mower. I always run with the throttle lever on full power. The mower consistently stalls 
when I go over a 2-inch diameter hole.

2.	The mower often stalls when I mow along the side of a mild gradient (with left side higher than right). Anybody else 
experience this?

3.	I live in Georgia and have Zeon Zoysia grass that has grown nice and thick this summer. I do not apply any growth 
inhibitors on the grass, so it grows pretty fast. I have to mow every 4-5 days. I have to go over the thick parts twice or it 
looks sloppy. Anyone else have to do this? I overlap a lot on each row, but I still have to go back over many of the 
strips.

4.	How often should the trimmer "blade" be sharpened?

5.	Despite me tightening the gas cap until it clicks and filling the tank only ¾ full, it seems like the gas leaks out of the top a 
little bit. Not sure why. Does anyone else have this issue?


----------



## JML

Cody_S said:


> If I set the HOC under 3/4" the sides are dragging. With the drive wheel raised up its scraping to a point where it won't even free roll down the drive. I really want to reset HOC to maintain at 3/4", but that means I need to get to the 5/8" level to reset first.
> 
> Any ideas why it's doing this? According the manual I should be able to now under a half inch and that's definitely not happening how it's set right now.
> 
> Thank you all in advance for the help!


You need to move the front roller/wheels to the highest hole setting.


----------



## ntoben

Anyone here running a 25" commercial?


----------



## Slim 1938

ntoben said:


> Anyone here running a 25" commercial?


I am.


----------



## TurfZaddyATL

I was cutting with my cal trimmer today the rod that goes through the middle of the smooth roller got caught on a metal edging strip and got pulled out just enough so the roller fell out of place. Has that happened to anyone? I managed to get the roller reassembled, but in the process noticed there is nothing on the HOC adjustment side preventing the rod from getting pulled out. Am I missing something? How can I prevent that from happening again. I see on the new grooved roller there is clearly a pin on the HOC adjustment side.


----------



## ntoben

Slim 1938 said:


> ntoben said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone here running a 25" commercial?
> 
> 
> 
> I am.
Click to expand...

How do you like it? And why did you choose that over a 20?


----------



## Slim 1938

ntoben said:


> Slim 1938 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ntoben said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone here running a 25" commercial?
> 
> 
> 
> I am.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How do you like it? And why did you choose that over a 20?
Click to expand...

Sorry for late reply, been on the road. I chose the 25 basically to cover more ground quickly. My front and backyard are big rectangles and fairly flat with a small slope on one end. It works great. Mine has a Honda engine and a smooth front roller.


----------



## jdrop01

What is your HOC? I am starting to believe I need to go way lower next year with my CT to avoid tire marks.



Slim 1938 said:


> ntoben said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Slim 1938 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am.
> 
> 
> 
> How do you like it? And why did you choose that over a 20?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sorry for late reply, been on the road. I chose the 25 basically to cover more ground quickly. My front and backyard are big rectangles and fairly flat with a small slope on one end. It works great. Mine has a Honda engine and a smooth front roller.
Click to expand...


----------



## Slim 1938

@jdrop01 I try to keep it at about .5 for most of season.


----------



## williams6966

Slim 1938 said:


> @jdrop01 I try to keep it at about .5 for most of season.


----------



## williams6966

can anyone help me locate the correct air filter for the gx110 engine with this type of housing? Thanks


----------



## JML

williams6966 said:


> can anyone help me locate the correct air filter for the gx110 engine with this type of housing? Thanks
> View attachment 66








Element- Air Cleaner [17403-ZE1-810] for Honda Lawn Equipments | eReplacement Parts


Buy a Honda Element- Air Cleaner [17403-ZE1-810] for your Honda Lawn Equipment - We have the parts and diagrams to make your repairs easy.




www.ereplacementparts.com


----------



## williams6966

JML said:


> Element- Air Cleaner [17403-ZE1-810] for Honda Lawn Equipments | eReplacement Parts
> 
> 
> Buy a Honda Element- Air Cleaner [17403-ZE1-810] for your Honda Lawn Equipment - We have the parts and diagrams to make your repairs easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ereplacementparts.com





JML said:


> Element- Air Cleaner [17403-ZE1-810] for Honda Lawn Equipments | eReplacement Parts
> 
> 
> Buy a Honda Element- Air Cleaner [17403-ZE1-810] for your Honda Lawn Equipment - We have the parts and diagrams to make your repairs easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ereplacementparts.com


Thank you man that helped me so much! Can you please link to the initial page for all of the parts of that year range and I’ll buy them from you guys because I need a few more. I would have bought all the wrong stuff. Thank you again


----------



## williams6966

williams6966 said:


> Thank you man that helped me so much! Can you please link to the initial page for all of the parts of that year range and I’ll buy them from you guys because I need a few more. I would have bought all the wrong stuff. Thank you again





JML said:


> Element- Air Cleaner [17403-ZE1-810] for Honda Lawn Equipments | eReplacement Parts
> 
> 
> Buy a Honda Element- Air Cleaner [17403-ZE1-810] for your Honda Lawn Equipment - We have the parts and diagrams to make your repairs easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ereplacementparts.com





JML said:


> Element- Air Cleaner [17403-ZE1-810] for Honda Lawn Equipments | eReplacement Parts
> 
> 
> Buy a Honda Element- Air Cleaner [17403-ZE1-810] for your Honda Lawn Equipment - We have the parts and diagrams to make your repairs easy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.ereplacementparts.com


Can you tell me which diagram is associated with that mower


----------



## JML

williams6966 said:


> Can you tell me which diagram is associated with that mower


So loaded question, because the engine can differ over years and different models (gx110, gx120, briggs). Honda also made minor changes such as the air filter over the years. So it’s not an exact science. Click the compatibility link on that page. Or enter your engine’s vin onto that site’s search and you should be in the ballpark.

The best place I’ve found for Cal Trimmer parts is Zampree.com they generally ship next day. Belts are way cheaper on Amazon though.


----------



## williams6966

Is it possible to tell the difference between the standard and high cut model? Are there any visible differences? Looking for a used model but don’t want the high cut version thanks.


----------



## TC Green

Just got my first CT and tested it out on my final cut of the season. I believe it's a 2019 model. Two questions:

1. The clutch is difficult to squeeze. Is that normal?

2. I tightened up the drive roller chain by pulling it backwards and tightening the u-bolts and set screws but when I was done it was slack again.

Any thoughts are appreciated! It made even dormant Bermuda look good.


----------



## Dono1183

Any ideas on what to do about a broken zerk? I got the connection stuck and in trying to get it off, the piece just came off the reel. Thanks in advance for the help.

Edit:
Is it just that I’ll need to buy a new reel?


----------



## Reel_Alabama

You can use an Easy Out then replace the fitting. The next time your gun gets stuck on a fitting you can unscrew the hose from the gun and it will release the vacuum. Ask me how I know. Haha


----------

