# John Deere 220SL Reel Replacement and Reconditioning



## Pete1313

"Reunited, and it feels so good"...

This was the mower that got it all started for me. The mower that made low cut KBG a reality at my last home. After selling it to a co-worker and he didn't use it to it's full potential, I bought it back from him. I am currently reconditioning it for a cool-season member here, and am excited that soon he will be low mowing cool-season grass as well. This is my favorite mower! It is a 2011 John Deere 220SL with an 11-blade reel. In the next few posts I will show how to replace the reel, bearings, bedknife, as well as some other things as I get it ready for it's new owner.


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## Ridgerunner

You are my favorite poster to read by far. You rolled out the red carpet for the JD? Seriously? :roll:


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## Pete1313

Ridgerunner said:


> You are my favorite poster to read by far. You rolled out the red carpet for the JD? Seriously? :roll:


Thanks Ridgerunner! This mower has a special place in my heart... so ofcourse it gets the red carpet treatment!..  Stay tuned, it is all torn apart. Plenty of pics to upload tonight.


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## ericgautier

I wished I lived closer to you! Someone is going to be very happy with this machine.


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## Pete1313

So let's get to it. First off, I am currently an auto mechanic and have been working on cars for 15 years. Mechanical tasks come easy to me. This reel replacement is alittle more involved then the reels on my QA5 cutting heads. I feel anyone can do it, but go at your own risk as there are alot of things to remove. This process would be the same on all John Deere A/B/C/SL fixed head reel mowers from 1997-Current.

First I removed the chain cover on the side of the mower.









Behind it are the one roller drive chain and the reel drive chain.









You can see that both chains have too much deflection. The deflection spec on the roller drive chain is 7/16" and 1/4" on the reel chain. You can adjust the deflection, and I will do it on reassembly.


















Next I removed the top sprocket that is on the differential shaft.









There is a keyway on the differential shaft. When removing the sprocket and chain, capture the key and make sure not to lose it.









I then worked on the other side of the reel where the compression spring is. There would normally be a cover that goes on top of this, and is missing because the previous course that had it must of had a groomer assembly on it and removed it before auction. I will get a new cover for reassembly so dirt/debris wont get into the new reel bearings. You can see the gear that is left on there is normally not on a unit without a groomer. The compression spring is what holds the preload on the reel bearings and is a good idea to replace it when reconditioning the reel.









I then removed the compression spring bolt, groomer gear, spacer, and a ring that I believe is only needed on a setup with a groomer.









Next I loosened both of the bolts that hold the bedknife adjusters on both sides, fully unscrewed both adjusters, and removed them from the unit.



























Next I removed the 3 bolts on the left and right reel bearing housing assemblies that bolt on to the frame, and then slide out the reel/bed bar/bedknife assembly as one piece.


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## Pete1313

ericgautier said:


> I wished I lived closer to you! Someone is going to be very happy with this machine.


 it is going to be fun to rebuild. Part of me does this hobby just for the equipment. And the new owner will enjoy a machine that is in great shape!


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## g-man

A lucky guy


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## Pete1313

Then I removed both bed bar pivot bolts and separated the bed bar from the reel bearing housings.


















Capture both springs and adjuster bolts and set them to the side









Remove the key from the keyway on the compression spring side of the reel, and then slide off the bearing housing assembly.









Remove the nut that holds the sprocket on the other side of the reel and then remove the sprocket.









Remove the key from the keyway on the reel and then remove the other bearing housing.









I then removed the bedknife from the bed bar.









Make sure you use an impact/striking screwdriver when removing the bedknife screws with a bit that fits tightly in the screws.



























I then removed the bearing cone, cup, and seals from both bearing housing assemblies. You can use a special race remover tool, a press, or do it back alley style like I did and find a socket that is the perfect fit and tap them out.



























Although they would cut paper, both the reel and bedknife both have wear. The reel is supposed to be 5" in diameter but is worn down to 4.5". It has some relief left, but at this point is getting replaced. John Deere has an option for a 9-blade reel that would fit, but both the new owner and I agree on keeping it an 11-blade reel.


















The bedknife is worn as well. There is very little front face left. We will be putting a high-cut fairway knife on it. Since the high-cut fairway knife is significantly thicker, it has a minimum HOC of .3", but it is a stronger knife and will last longer.


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## Pete1313

I then took the other side cover off and looked at the other roller chain. It was alittle loose as well.


















I then adjusted the deflection to spec, which is 7/16" for the roller chain. The deflection is easy to adjust. All you do is loosen the nut on the idler pulley and then slide it tighter or looser, measure your deflection and then tighten the nut on the idler. I then cleaned off any large debris, and then added some more grease to the chain. John Deere recommends using John Deere Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease or an NLGI grade No.2 equivalent grease. How the chain looks with the proper deflection.


















So that is about it for now. There are a few other minor non reel-related parts that need replacement, but i will go into details on those when I replace them. All cleaned up, and now it is parts ordering time! I will update once I receive the parts.


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## wardconnor

Nice info Pete. Excellent write up.


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## Pete1313

wardconnor said:


> Nice info Pete. Excellent write up.


Thanks Connor.


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## Pete1313

I'll be finishing up this project this weekend. Finally got the parts needed. It has taken alittle longer to get the parts then normal as John Deere was waiting on one part I ordered for the speedlink system before they shipped the order. For now, here are some pics of the new reel and also comparing it to the old one. More to come in a couple days.


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## MasterMech

I'm very curious as to why you decided to keep the 11-blade setup. Especially for cool-season grass. Of course, this curiosity has NOTHING to do with two boxes from R&R sitting in my foyer. :nod:

One more bit of curiosity - did you go with Deere or aftermarket parts for the reel and knife?


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## Pete1313

MasterMech said:


> I'm very curious as to why you decided to keep the 11-blade setup. Especially for cool-season grass. Of course, this curiosity has NOTHING to do with two boxes from R&R sitting in my foyer. :nod:


A 9-blade would have increased the clip rate to .222" from .182 with the 11-blade and I agree would of been a better fit on longer cool season turf, although only slightly better. It was a decision I left to the new owner as to what reel to go with. Part of the decision was based on keeping it original, maybe the possibility of resale, that he has not 100% decided what turf he is planting and what HOC he will end up maintaining at, and also that the 11-blade on this mower previously maintained KBG and did well.

I love R&R. Great service, fast shipping. I used them for the reel bearings and seals for this mower. There were a few specialty items that I needed to get from JD and also decided to keep the reel and bedknife JD.

You piqued my curiosity! What's in the boxes in your foyer?


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## MasterMech

Pete1313 said:


> You piqued my curiosity! What's in the boxes in your foyer?


The 7-blade reel and high-profile bed-knife for the Jake. It's not doing as well as I had hoped with the 11-blade setup. Double-cuts are pretty much mandatory.

For the heights that most of us are mowing at, (over .375") I would think 7/8/9 blade reels would be desireable. We mowed PRG tee boxes @ .500" with 8 blade reels and I remember having to double cut with the walk mower (11 Bld) to rival what the triplexes were getting in 1 pass.


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## Pete1313

MasterMech said:


> The 7-blade reel and high-profile bed-knife for the Jake. It's not doing as well as I had hoped with the 11-blade setup. Double-cuts are pretty much mandatory.


Sorry to hear about your cut quality issues. Hopefully the new knife and reel fix it. :thumbsup: I know I initially got stragglers and some missed cuts when I first started going low(even with the triplex with 7-blade QA5 reels). Once I kept up on the mowing, and the grass transitioned/learned the lower HOC, the stragglers and missed cuts disappeared. Since renovating, and keeping the KBG short from the start, the only time I got missed cuts is when I let it get too long between cuts (which was my fault and had to double cut). My experience is only with KBG though and not bermuda.


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## MasterMech

Pete1313 said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> The 7-blade reel and high-profile bed-knife for the Jake. It's not doing as well as I had hoped with the 11-blade setup. Double-cuts are pretty much mandatory.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear about your cut quality issues. Hopefully the new knife and reel fix it. :thumbsup: I know I initially got stragglers and some missed cuts when I first started going low(even with the triplex with 7-blade QA5 reels). Once I kept up on the mowing, and the grass transitioned/learned the lower HOC, the stragglers and missed cuts disappeared. Since renovating, and keeping the KBG short from the start, the only time I got missed cuts is when I let it get too long between cuts (which was my fault and had to double cut). My experience is only with KBG though and not bermuda.
Click to expand...

I'm actually mowing Annual Rye now @ about 1.25". So the weak canopy isn't helping anything for sure. The stuff grows at an insane rate, I'm getting nearly an inch of growth every 4 days. That would be a lot easier to keep up with if it didn't get dark at 5pm this time of the year or I wasn't mowing 20k of the stuff.


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## Redtenchu

Love this thread Pete!

Have you needed to use or make any special tooling to remove the reel bearings or seals?


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## Pete1313

Redtenchu said:


> Love this thread Pete!
> 
> Have you needed to use or make any special tooling to remove the reel bearings or seals?


You can just use a socket and tap the seal and outer race out at the same time. Just use a socket that fits just inside the opening in the bearing housing. Putting the new seals and races in are alittle trickier. I'll show the install in a bit.


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## Pete1313

Time to get this thing put back together! To start, I took the bearing housings to work to press in the new seals and outer bearing races. If you look close inside the housings you can see a lip/stepped bore. The seal presses in the smaller bore, and the outer race in the larger one.


















Press the seal in first and it is important that you press it all the way down until it bottoms out against the back of the housing. You might be able to do this with a socket and hammer if you have the perfect size, but I ended up using the shop press and adapters.


















Then press the outer races in and make sure they bottom out against the stepped lip that is inside the housing.


















It is important that the seal and race are pressed separately and that the seal is bottomed out all the way in the housing. There needs to be a space between them. This is because the opening for the grease fitting is right between them and if it is covered you won't be able to grease the bearing properly.









I then took them home to be assembled with the reel. I did alittle work on the bed bar. First I ran a tap thru the holes for the bedknife screws. Then cleaned the mating surface for the bedknife, removing any surface rust and built up grass clippings. A wire brush works good for this, and then finished up by rubbing alittle fluid film across the bottom.


















I ran a tap and die thru the bed bar/bedknife adjusters and bolts and then gave a coating of fluid film to the threads. Be careful when using a tap and die on John Deere equipment as some of the threads are metric and some are standard.









A quick look on how JD packages its new reels. The blocks of wood have holes drilled in the center that snuggly centers the reel in the box.









Then took the bearing housings with new seals and races and put alittle grease on the seals and races.









I then installed the bearing housings on the reel, installed the bed bar to the housings by tightening the bed bar pivot bolts and fit the bed bar adjuster bolts and springs netween the bed bar and bearing housings.


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## Pete1313

After the bearing housings and bed bar were installed on the reel,









I went ahead and bolted the assembly into the mower frame with the three bolts on each side that go into the bearing housings. Make sure the reel shield bolts are loose so the new, larger reel doesn't contact it when installing.


















Then I put a thin coating of grease in the hold down clamps for the bedknife adjusters and slid the adjusters thru them and threaded them onto the adjuster bolts.


















Packed the bearing cones and then slid them over the ends of the reel and into the bearing housings.



























I then worked on the chain side of the reel. There was a snap ring that was missing when I disassembled the reel and am surprised it didn't cause any issues when mowing in the past with this mower. It snaps onto the reel and holds the bearing cone In place on the chain side so when the compression spring on the other side is tightened the cone will stay firmly against the outer race. Without it, that bearing, and the reel in general can walk around.


















I installed the snap ring onto the reel.









I then installed the old removed key onto the new reel keyway.









Installed the outer bearing seal in the bearing housing. There is an outer seal on the chain side only.









Then installed the chain gear and tightened the 32mm nut.









Went over to the compression spring side and reinstalled the old key into the new keyway.









Then installed installed the spacer, groomer gear, compression spring, and compression spring bolt.









I then shot some more grease into both bearing housing assemblies.


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## Pete1313

I then worked on installing the reel drive chain. I installed the key onto the keyway for the differential shaft that drives the reel, then installed the chain with the gear and tightened the nut.









Then set the deflection to spec for the reel drive chain by sliding the idler pulley, and then tightening the nut on the idler. Deflection spec on the reel drive chain is 1/4"


















I also set the deflection to spec on the roller drive chain, which is 7/16".


















Then blew off any old clippings and debris and greased up both chains.









Added a new cover bolt that was missing, and installed the cover.


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## Ware

Unbelievable write-up. Someone is going to stumble upon this someday and be thankful that you took the time to do this. It's definitely an inspiration for the next project I undertake. :thumbup:


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## Pete1313

Thanks Ware! I look forward to seeing your next project and hope this can help anybody that reads it!


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## Pete1313

I am replacing the old bedknife and will be using a high-cut fairway version. There are some advantages to using this thicker knife, but has a minimum HOC of .3" due to it being thicker. Here are a couple pics showing the difference in size compared to the old one.


















I then test fit the old knife and then the new one to the mower to show how each one looks different under the mower. The HOC in both pics are 5/8". Due to its size the high-cut fairway knife's angle is alittle more aggressive. 

















Even at a higher HOC of 1 1/16" the knife still has some angle to it. Before with the smaller(worn to 4 1/2") reel and thinner knife, the bedknife angle was basically parallel to the ground at the higher HOC.









I then installed the new bedknife to the bed bar with new screws that I applied antisieze to. I hand threaded all screws and then used a torque wrench to tighten the screws to the spec of 62in lbs. When tightening the screws, start in the center and alternate your way to the outside screws.









I then set the bedknife to reel clearance to backlap, and installed the backlap bolt. The backlap bolt is a 3/8" with a 24 thread pitch. You could also use a 32mm socket.


















Backlapped the reel, cleaned it, set the bedknife to reel clearance, set the reel shield clearance, set the HOC and the reel and bedknife replacement is complete.


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## Pete1313

I did a few other small things to get the mower ready for its new home. I replaced the worm gear for the front roller adjuster on the one side. The part that sticks out and attaches to the speedlink bar broke off making the speedlink feature unable to be used.




































I also replaced the belts









And changed out the differential fluid.









Parked and ready to go!


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## g-man

Pete, this is a fun project. You could turn the reel rebuilding into a business.


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## Pete1313

g-man said:


> Pete, this is a fun project. You could turn the reel rebuilding into a business.


It was a fun project! I dont think i can make it a business, but there will be other reel mowers in the future and I enjoy working on them!


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## pennstater2005

Pete, I'm jealous of your mechanical ability.


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## Pete1313

pennstater2005 said:


> Pete, I'm jealous of your mechanical ability.


Thanks pennstater. Being an auto mechanic makes this project easier, but I think if one has some mechanical ability, patience, and an understanding how it comes apart and goes back together by reading these posts, they can tackle this project!


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## pennstater2005

Pete1313 said:


> pennstater2005 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Pete, I'm jealous of your mechanical ability.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks pennstater. Being an auto mechanic makes this project easier, but I think if one has some mechanical ability, patience, and an understanding how it comes apart and goes back together by reading these posts, they can tackle this project!
Click to expand...

None of those describe me :lol:


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## MasterMech

Great Job!

I just replaced the reel in the Jake and in doing so realized that I could probably do a better instruction set than what was in the Jake manual I have. Hopefully I will have a better shop setup the next time I dig into it that far. The lighting in my garage was very poor for taking pics, and my work space was limited to a small area, sitting on the floor. My garage is packed with all of our stuff from the move still, lots of my stuff and all of the kids ride-on toys. (Grumble grumble)

Back to my point, these kinds of write-ups like what Pete1313 has here are invaluable because nobody outside of golf and sports turf mechanics really rebuilds this type of equipment, leaving an ambitious DIY'r somewhat on their own for the knowledge necessary to avoid some expensive lessons!


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## g-man

MasterMech said:


> leaving an ambitious DIY'r somewhat on their own for the knowledge necessary to avoid some expensive lessons!


+1

Just knowing what you are getting into and the tools you will need (ie. a press) makes a huge difference. Thanks Pete.


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## Pete1313

MasterMech said:


> Great Job!...
> 
> Back to my point, these kinds of write-ups like what Pete1313 has here are invaluable because nobody outside of golf and sports turf mechanics really rebuilds this type of equipment, leaving an ambitious DIY'r somewhat on their own for the knowledge necessary to avoid some expensive lessons!


Thanks for the kind words, and although the operators manual has alot of info on the maintenance of these machines, I agree that their is not much info about rebuilding them.



g-man said:


> Just knowing what you are getting into and the tools you will need (ie. a press) makes a huge difference. Thanks Pete.


No problem. You might be able to install the new bearings and seals without a press, but I didn't try. FYI, the 220E cutting unit that you are looking into with the QA5 cutting head is much different and alot easier to rebuild. You definitely wont need a press or any special tools besides some snap ring pliers. There are a couple snap rings you need to watch out for, but the bearing races are not press fit by design. You can just about slide them out by hand. Worst case, a couple easy taps with a hammer and punch. I wish i took more pics when I rebuilt the QA5 heads last year.


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## g-man

Thanks for the info. I've been thinking why they designed it that way. Good to know the improved the design in the QA5.

I'm going to try the auction this week. There are 4 available on this one. I already started the shipping quotes process. Hopefully it will work out.


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## Pete1313

g-man said:


> Thanks for the info. I've been thinking why they designed it that way. Good to know the improved the design in the QA5.
> 
> I'm going to try the auction this week. There are 4 available on this one. I already started the shipping quotes process. Hopefully it will work out.


No problem. I wouldn't say they improved the design with the QA5 as if the SL line is less of a design. The SL and E model with the QA5 head are both current JD models. The SL is the fixed head design and the E is the floating head design. Each has different advantages.

Best of luck at the auction!


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## Mightyquinn

I will just echo what everyone else has said about your right up here, great job and very detailed! You almost make me want to get a JD greens mower 

I was curious if you cleaned the mower at all while you were in there fixing and replacing everything? Especially inside where the chain drive is at!


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## Pete1313

Mightyquinn said:


> I will just echo what everyone else has said about your right up here, great job and very detailed! You almost make me want to get a JD greens mower
> 
> I was curious if you cleaned the mower at all while you were in there fixing and replacing everything? Especially inside where the chain drive is at!


Thanks Mightyquinn! You and I both know where there are alot of JD greensmowers if you decide you "almost" want one in a few weeks! 

I did a thorough job cleaning out the bearing housings and bed bar before reassembly. I spent some time clearing out the reel shield of any built up clippings and debris as well spent some time on the bedknife adjusters to make sure they moved freely. I also gave the exterior of the mower a good wash when everything was done.

In regards to the chains and chain covers, I cleaned them up but did not go crazy. What I did was take a blow gun to the chains and inside of the covers to remove any grass clippings and large debris, but left the existing grease intact and coated them with a layer of new grease. It seems like clippings and dust seem to find their way inside.

Here is a pic when I first took the cover off









And one right before I put the cover back on


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## Redtenchu

Dang, it's like a brand new mower!

I hope you sold it for the MSRP of $7k! If not then ABC got a great deal!


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## Pete1313

Redtenchu said:


> Dang, it's like a brand new mower!
> 
> I hope you sold it for the MSRP of $7k! If not then ABC got a great deal!


Thanks Red! Not quite $7k..  I think it was worthwhile for ABC to drive down and get it. I enjoy working on these machines almost as much as mowing with them.


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## Txmx583

Great write up!!! About to replace the same parts on my 180b and this is priceless!!!! Thanks a ton!!


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## Pete1313

Glad you will make use of the write up! :thumbsup:


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## Flynt2799

Can't thank you enough @Pete1313 . Just finished replacing the seals and bearing on my 180. Bout half way through I couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong. Reverted back to your thread and it saved the day!


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## Pete1313

Glad to help!


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## TonyC

Weeks Auction yesterday, JD 180SL & 220SL overhaul in my future.

Has anybody done the engine side of such an overhaul? Not talking about internal piston and rings, more carb and idle.

Thanks for a great post! @Pete1313


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## Pete1313

Thanks @TonyC, unfortunately I did not need to do any reconditioning on the engine side. Everything was good there.


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## crussell

This is great @Pete1313

I have a used 260B coming my way and I'm literally on RR ordering a new 7-blade reel and high cut bedknife (+bearings, seals). Will definitely be following this write-up.

Can you point me in the direction of the service manual you were using? is there an online pdf?


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## Pete1313

Thanks @crussell! I did not use the service manual, just used the owners manual a couple times for reference, but mechanical things are easy for me. If you need links to the shop manual @g-man reposted them HERE


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## crussell

@Pete1313 Cool I saw @g-man post and found the shop manual for the 180/220/260C's. I'm assuming this models is close enough to the B's that everything should be relatively the same? I just want to give it a skim for tolerances and specs for fluid and lube.

Thanks!


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## crussell

Rebuilding my 220B right now - Was nervous about installing the seals and races that Pete pressed in, so I picked up this Bearing Driver kit from Motion Pro.

The 40mm is a great size for the inner seals, and the 47mm is exact for the races and outer seal. Worked awesome, highly recommend. Motion Pro makes awesome tools for small engine, dirt bike, ATV's, etc.

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0551


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## khayden10

Thank You, Thank You, Thank You!! Can not believe I didn't see this before I just ordered a new reel and bed knife for my 220a and this is going to help me out sooooo much! I'm planing on leveling this year with sand should I wait to change out the reel and bed knife? I did not know if the sand would effect it?


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## TonyC

I am beginning my own 220SL & 180SL renewing, and I would like to understand the Reel Compatibility of these JD models. I will be mowing Zeon Zoysia at around 1" HOC. I'm planning to switch to a fairway bedknife and replace bearing hardware also.

What 7 or 9 blade reel options do I have? Are the JD A/B/C reels all compatible because they are all fixed head models?

I've seen multiple references (including a couple in this thread), but no actual part numbers referenced.


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## TonyC

I believe I've found in information on the 9-blade reel for a 220SL in the John Deere Greens Mowers Questions thread.



Pete1313 said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> The AMT2903 is the 7 blade reel ($275 at greenfarmparts). I would replace the reel bearings too and get new bedknife screws.
> 
> 
> 
> AMT2903 is a 26" reel and will only fit the 260B/C/SL.
> 
> AMT2867 is the 9-blade like MasterMech mentioned, and is the least number of blades you can get on the 220B/C/SL.
Click to expand...


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## g-man

For that hoc, the lower the blade the best.

If you enter your model in this website, it will give you all the part numbers and price. You could order from them too.


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## 985arrowhead

@Pete1313 could you post your receipt, minus any personal information on the parts you ordered or post a parts list of the bearings and seals etc. one would need to complete this?

Reel and bedknife are easy to ID but as a quick reference for someone that may want to do this!

I bend two blades on my reel the other day and have tried to straighten them. Initially the reel would not even turn. I was able to get it to cut by tapping and bending the blades back and then back lapping 3 or 4 time for about 10-15 minutes each but I know I severely wore down the knife doing that.

It still cuts paper all the way across except for about 1/4" on that side except for those two blades but the mower now vibrates a little more and is more noisy.

Thoughts, recommendations or ideas other than an overhaul?

Thanks......Love this site


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## ZachUA

Hi Pete, thank you so much for posting these photos and making a write up explaining each step. I have read this probably 5 times trying to prepare for the job. I need to order all the parts and hope to get everything in one swoop. Nothing worse than tearing down a machine to realize that you forgot one small part that's integral to everything working. Do you by chance have a parts list that I could cross check my order with?

Mine has a groomer on it. Is there anything special to removing it? I started tinkering with it last night but was really confused as to how exactly it's mounted.


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## Pete1313

Here are the part numbers as well as quantity for the bearing cups, cones and seals that I would recommend doing when replacing the reel.


Here are a couple parts that I would suggest doing as well while you are in there. Item#44(qty 1) is the compression spring that holds the preload on the reel bearings. Item#45(qty 2) are the springs for the bedknife adjusters.


Ofcourse you will need to pick the reel you want and a new bedknife and screws if you want to replace that as well. You shouldn't need anything else, but will never know until you tear it apart. On the one I did, it was missing an important snap ring.

I have not removed a groomer assembly on the fixed head reels, only the QA5 heads. They look alittle different. By the parts diagram it looks like you need to separate the case on the GTC drive and then there will be a snap ring in there but I am not sure. Maybe someone else can comment?


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## Pete1313

@ZachUA, click this link and go to page# 154. It will show you how to disassemble the GTC assy.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B7QaaYwb_60ealFMeGVRSkVCbUk/edit?usp=drive_web


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## ZachUA

Pete1313 said:


> Here are the part numbers as well as quantity for the bearing cups, cones and seals that I would recommend doing when replacing the reel.
> 
> 
> Here are a couple parts that I would suggest doing as well while you are in there. Item#44(qty 1) is the compression spring that holds the preload on the reel bearings. Item#45(qty 2) are the springs for the bedknife adjusters.
> 
> 
> Ofcourse you will need to pick the reel you want and a new bedknife and screws if you want to replace that as well. You shouldn't need anything else, but will never know until you tear it apart. On the one I did, it was missing an important snap ring.
> 
> I have not removed a groomer assembly on the fixed head reels, only the QA5 heads. They look alittle different. By the parts diagram it looks like you need to separate the case on the GTC drive and then there will be a snap ring in there but I am not sure. Maybe someone else can comment?


Whew that's not too bad!  Thank you for taking time to take screen shots. This will be extremely helpful for me, but also anyone else doing this in the future.

After I put the reel and bedknife in the cart on r&r site yesterday, I saw the cost :shock: and hoped there wouldn't be too many more parts to add. The exploded diagram of the reel/components makes it look like it's 50 pieces. :shock:


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## Txmx583

Pete1313 said:


> I have not removed a groomer assembly on the fixed head reels, only the QA5 heads. They look alittle different. By the parts diagram it looks like you need to separate the case on the GTC drive and then there will be a snap ring in there but I am not sure. Maybe someone else can comment?


I am doing mine now thanks to your write up. Mine has a groomer and you do have to open the groomer gear box and remove a large snap ring to get the gear box off. After that the reel comes out as if there was no groomer. Ordering a new gasket for the gear box then I'll be reassembling mine.


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## Txmx583

So thankful for this thread!!! Gave me the confidence to do my 180b!!! Is it just me, or are these JD bed-knives a thing of beauty!!! Almost a shame to get it dirty...


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## Pete1313

@Txmx583, it does look beautiful! I'm glad this thread has helped you as well as others! :thumbsup:


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## Txmx583

Pete1313 said:


> @Txmx583, it does look beautiful! I'm glad this thread has helped you as well as others! :thumbsup:


I need your help Pete.. I'm putting everything back together and have a stopped spacer that I can't remember where it goes lol. I've checked parts micro Fische and am kinda lost. Have you seen this spacer and can you confirm where it goes?


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## Pete1313

That spacer is part #13 in this diagram and goes in right after the bearing cone. Since you have a GTC setup, you wont have part #19(o-ring/seal) or part #1(another spacer).


That part #1 in the first diagram gets replaced by part #16 in this diagram which is the gear for the GTC. As far as which direction the stepped spacer goes, I don't remember exactly. I want to say the shoulder part of the gear(part #16) fits inside that spacer, but it should become clear when you start reassembling.


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## Txmx583

Pete1313 said:


> That spacer is part #13 in this diagram and goes in right after the bearing cone. Since you have a GTC setup, you wont have part #19(o-ring/seal) or part #1(another spacer).
> 
> 
> That part #1 in the first diagram gets replaced by part #16 in this diagram which is the gear for the GTC. As far as which direction the stepped spacer goes, I don't remember exactly. I want to say the shoulder part of the gear(part #16) fits inside that spacer, but it should become clear when you start reassembling.


Cool, that was the only part I figured it would be. The stepped part of the spacer was throwing my off. Do you know if it matters which direction it goes? The spacer isn't big enough for the spring to go inside of it, I tried that already. Thanks Pete!!!


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## Pete1313

In the first pic you can actually see the spacer installed in the bearing housing already. Then in the second pic you can see the gear goes on, then compression spring and lastly the bolt.


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## Pete1313

And also looks like in those pictures that the larger diameter opening of that stepped spacer faces out.


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## Txmx583

Pete1313 said:


> And also looks like in those pictures that the larger diameter opening of that stepped spacer faces out.


Perfect thanks!!! I bet the stepped part is for the key, I didn't even think about the key or what it hits up against. Thanks for the help! I'll try and have mine back together tomorrow. 🙌🏻👍🏻


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## ChiTX2015

crussell said:


> @Pete1313 Cool I saw @g-man post and found the shop manual for the 180/220/260C's. I'm assuming this models is close enough to the B's that everything should be relatively the same? I just want to give it a skim for tolerances and specs for fluid and lube.
> 
> Thanks!


@crussell I'f love to hear about how it went. Did you find any difference/gap between the 180/220/260C's manual and the 260B unit?


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## crussell

ChiTX2015 said:


> crussell said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Pete1313 Cool I saw @g-man post and found the shop manual for the 180/220/260C's. I'm assuming this models is close enough to the B's that everything should be relatively the same? I just want to give it a skim for tolerances and specs for fluid and lube.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> @crussell I'f love to hear about how it went. Did you find any difference/gap between the 180/220/260C's manual and the 260B unit?
Click to expand...

None that I could tell - I mostly just referenced the manual for torque specs and lubricant types, but everything seemed the same.


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## walk1355

crussell said:


> Rebuilding my 220B right now - Was nervous about installing the seals and races that Pete pressed in, so I picked up this Bearing Driver kit from Motion Pro.
> 
> The 40mm is a great size for the inner seals, and the 47mm is exact for the races and outer seal. Worked awesome, highly recommend. Motion Pro makes awesome tools for small engine, dirt bike, ATV's, etc.
> 
> https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0551


@crussell @Pete1313

I have a lot of tools, but don't know much about bearing drivers. Would a kit like this work? Looking to save a little money vs the Motion Pro set.

https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Piece-Custom-Bearing-Driver/dp/B01443Z21A/ref=sr_1_31_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=bearing+driver+set&qid=1585751654&s=hi&sr=1-31-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFWUFcxTk1TWkxaTFQmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA3MDI3MjgzT0Y4QVJIWkNJMlFIJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1ODU4MjVNSkExTkVVSVhGRlomd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl


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## crussell

walk1355 said:


> crussell said:
> 
> 
> 
> Rebuilding my 220B right now - Was nervous about installing the seals and races that Pete pressed in, so I picked up this Bearing Driver kit from Motion Pro.
> 
> The 40mm is a great size for the inner seals, and the 47mm is exact for the races and outer seal. Worked awesome, highly recommend. Motion Pro makes awesome tools for small engine, dirt bike, ATV's, etc.
> 
> https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0551
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @crussell @Pete1313
> 
> I have a lot of tools, but don't know much about bearing drivers. Would a kit like this work? Looking to save a little money vs the Motion Pro set.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/8milelake-Piece-Custom-Bearing-Driver/dp/B01443Z21A/ref=sr_1_31_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=bearing+driver+set&qid=1585751654&s=hi&sr=1-31-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFWUFcxTk1TWkxaTFQmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA3MDI3MjgzT0Y4QVJIWkNJMlFIJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1ODU4MjVNSkExTkVVSVhGRlomd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9idGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Click to expand...

Looks like it should work - I really like the Motion Pro kit I bought (they make great tools by the way for the powersports world) because the sizes are nearly perfect for rebuilding the John Deere's. The kit you found obviously has a ton more sizes for the price, and would likely work just fine for what you need it for.


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## g-man

@walk1355 instead on buying this, you can rent it for free at most autoparts.


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## GadgetVictim

crussell said:


> Rebuilding my 220B right now - Was nervous about installing the seals and races that Pete pressed in, so I picked up this Bearing Driver kit from Motion Pro.
> 
> The 40mm is a great size for the inner seals, and the 47mm is exact for the races and outer seal. Worked awesome, highly recommend. Motion Pro makes awesome tools for small engine, dirt bike, ATV's, etc.
> 
> https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0551


@crussell 
I own a 220sl, and would like to know if this tool would work for pressing both my reel and front roller bearings? 
I'm thinking of getting the R&R roller extraction tool recomended by @Pete1313, but not sure if this Motion Pro would work in getting bearing pressed in front roller. Any recommendations if it'll work or which tool to get?


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## crussell

@GadgetVictim I only used this bearing driver set for my reel bearings, but did not replace my roller bearings so I can't say for sure. It does come with several sizes from 32mm-47mm, might be worth measuring the ID of your roller housing to see if it is in this size range.

One other way I've done it too, is use a closely sized socket and an extension. I like to use the extension through the open end of the socket so that the flat end of the socket is against the bearing. Something that may get you by if you have some larger sockets on-hand.


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## GadgetVictim

crussell said:


> @GadgetVictim I only used this bearing driver set for my reel bearings, but did not replace my roller bearings so I can't say for sure. It does come with several sizes from 32mm-47mm, might be worth measuring the ID of your roller housing to see if it is in this size range.
> 
> One other way I've done it too, is use a closely sized socket and an extension. I like to use the extension through the open end of the socket so that the flat end of the socket is against the bearing. Something that may get you by if you have some larger sockets on-hand.


@crussell Thanks for quick response. Okay, don't have it apart and ready yet. But, will try measuring.
Going back to using your Motion Pro to press bearing on reel application, Is there a counterpart tool kit to remove the bearings from reel gracefully. I've seen some YouTube videos where guys uses an ADT tool to extract bearing from auto. But, but those parts in kit all look for auto application, and too big to fit smaller mowers. I was just wondering if there was smaller sized puller kit for greens mower application.

This is the YouTube video:


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## GadgetVictim

I took some screenshots of 220SL Tech manual that referenced there roller bearing puller and press tools.

However, I could not find anything in the JD 220SL parts catalog, nor the offering put out by R&R on those part numbers.

These are the part numbers in the tech manual:


Roller extraction/pullers:


Roller press, which looks very complex and expensive:


If anyone finds out where the press tools are available, and how much$$, I'd like to know. I probably won't be able to afford, but still curious.

For: @crussell , and @Pete1313 , Now, maybe just a rhetorical question: Assuming the Motion Pro tool kit has the right fitting for the outer race and easily fits into the front roller bearing, can it be the tool to use to manually press (wack) the bearing into the ends of the roller?


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## g-man

The press is just a auto shop floor press, like these: https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/category/auto-shop-presses/

I'm not sure going with a wack is a good idea. You want the bearing to slide in straight and I dont think the you can do that without a press.

One of my rollers had a bad bearing. Once I started to price the replacement (parts, tools, etc), it was cheaper/easier to buy a new roller. The turfco one have an easy to replace bearing system. If you have a triplex, then of course getting the tools will save you money.


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## gutowscr471

@Pete1313 Thanks for this great writeup. I have one question on the reel gear drive outter seal. You have yours installed like I would expect. Took mine off and it was put in reverse (pic attached). Thoughts on which way is correct?


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## g-man

I think Pete is on vacation this week. I do think that the seal is installed incorrectly in your image.

The pictures in the service manual might help too:
http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual

PS. Check the shoulder bolt and bushing clearance in the bottom of your image. It looks like the bushing in there is not round anymore. Replace it if it is oval.


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## Pete1313

gutowscr471 said:


> @Pete1313 Thanks for this great writeup. I have one question on the reel gear drive outter seal. You have yours installed like I would expect. Took mine off and it was put in reverse (pic attached). Thoughts on which way is correct?


Looks like yours is in backwards.


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## gutowscr471

Pete1313 said:


> gutowscr471 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Pete1313 Thanks for this great writeup. I have one question on the reel gear drive outter seal. You have yours installed like I would expect. Took mine off and it was put in reverse (pic attached). Thoughts on which way is correct?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like yours is in backwards.
Click to expand...

Completely agree. I just put mine back together and installed like in your picture and everything is fine. Have to say getting this back together with the GTC is a whole new level, but it was an awesome project that turned out perfect. Many thanks to you.


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## Pete1313

Nice work @gutowscr471! Looks beautiful!


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## gutowscr471

g-man said:


> I think Pete is on vacation this week. I do think that the seal is installed incorrectly in your image.
> 
> The pictures in the service manual might help too:
> http://www.gaturftech.com/service-manual
> 
> PS. Check the shoulder bolt and bushing clearance in the bottom of your image. It looks like the bushing in there is not round anymore. Replace it if it is oval.


It was definitely the angle of the photo and shadows for shoulder bolt bushing. I bought new bushings, shoulder bolts and grease fitting, but didn't need the bushing. Wanted to make sure I had everything I needed to do it right.


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## Deltahedge

Pete, thank you so much for documenting this process. I am cleaning up a 260SL and this post has been EXTREMELY helpful.


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## Pete1313

No problem @jspearm1983! :thumbsup:


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## Deltahedge

Hi @Pete1313 The seal (part #30) in this diagram is pictured between the housing (#26) and the reel. Should this seal be pressed inside the housing followed by the tapered cup (#31)?


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## Pete1313

Yes @jspearm1983.
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=28707#p28707


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## Deltahedge

Pete1313 said:


> Yes @jspearm1983.
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=28707#p28707


Ok Perfect, I saw how yours worked and assumed the 260 was the same. But it was a little strange seeing it different on the 260 parts diagram. I was just wanting to sense check myself that the 220 and 260 were the same. Thanks!!!


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## TexasJohn

Pete what the PArt number for the black cap that you installed on the outside of the reel?

THX John


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## Pete1313

TexasJohn said:


> Pete what the PArt number for the black cap that you installed on the outside of the reel?
> 
> THX John


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## Kstacks

Did you have to use a impact drive to get the nut free to get the reel off?


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## Herring

Kstacks said:


> Did you have to use a impact drive to get the nut free to get the reel off?


I locked vice grips on the reel on the ground to keep it from turning, and used channel lock pliers to loosen that nut since the reel was being replaced anyway.


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## Kstacks

Awesome, thank you got it. It's 1 3/16" socket for anyone else wondering the size.


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## g-man

@Kstacks double check. Most of the JD stuff is in metric.


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## Kstacks

You're probably correct, it worked for me. I'll definitely look into that though.


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## kay7711226

Pete1313 said:


> I then worked on installing the reel drive chain. I installed the key onto the keyway for the differential shaft that drives the reel, then installed the chain with the gear and tightened the nut.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then set the deflection to spec for the reel drive chain by sliding the idler pulley, and then tightening the nut on the idler. Deflection spec on the reel drive chain is 1/4"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also set the deflection to spec on the roller drive chain, which is 7/16".
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then blew off any old clippings and debris and greased up both chains.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added a new cover bolt that was missing, and installed the cover.


I checked and did this adjustment today(the roller drive chain was OK) The Reel however was very loose, adjusted it to spec however, started hearing "chain grinding sound", disengaged the reel and sound was gone, loosen it back to original and grinding sound was less obvious. I noticed when it's to spec the idler pulley tends to spin when I engage the reel and the grinding sound is back. The pulley on the drum does not spin when engaged. Should the pulley spin when it's adjusted correctly for both?


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## Pete1313

kay7711226 said:


> I checked and did this adjustment today(the roller drive chain was OK) The Reel however was very loose, adjusted it to spec however, started hearing "chain grinding sound", disengaged the reel and sound was gone, loosen it back to original and grinding sound was less obvious. I noticed when it's to spec the idler pulley tends to spin when I engage the reel and the grinding sound is back. The pulley on the drum does not spin when engaged. Should the pulley spin when it's adjusted correctly for both?


The pulley should spin when the chain is moving.


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## Herring

I am nearing the end of the replacement of a Coretask 11 blade reel and hi-cut fairway bedknife on my 220B. This has been quite the project and I have learned a lot from this thread. I was able to rent a bearing driver kit from Advanced Auto that was great for the seals and races. My 220B has the GTC that added some more time to assemble. I did notice, the technical manual instructs to remove the large snap ring in the GTC housing but says nothing about reinstalling it from what I see. I will have to go back in and add the large snap ring.


Also left over in parts is this O ring that I can not find where it goes.

For the reel to cut paper there is moderate contact between the reel and bedknife, would this be solved with backlapping?


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## halfape

That's not an o-ring. It's a spring from the back side of one of the shaft seals (see image below). It helps the rubber seal against the shaft. This particular one is most likely from the outside seal on the chain drive side of the reel. In my experience, they tend to pop off the seal and onto the inner race of the bearing when you drive that seal out. If you used new seals, you should be fine.


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## Herring

halfape said:


> That's not an o-ring. It's a spring from the back side of one of the shaft seals (see image below). It helps the rubber seal against the shaft. This particular one is most likely from the outside seal on the chain drive side of the reel. In my experience, they tend to pop off the seal and onto the inner race of the bearing when you drive that seal out. If you used new seals, you should be fine.


Thank you so much that's good to know, I did replace seals so it should be good to go.


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## rsh87

Thank you for this walktrough, it was a great help changing the reel on my 180b &#128588;


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## Dad_Who_Mows_Best

I am in the middle of replacing the reel and bedknife on my SL, but wanted to confirm with @Pete1313 that 62 inch pounds is the correct torque spec for the bedknife screws? Seemed aweful light compared to a Toro GM.

Thanks,
MIchael


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## williams6966

I've read conflicting things can you please help clarify. I want my cut kept between .50-.75... Would a 9 Blade or 11 blade reel be better? 2 does the 9 Blade actually fit the SL model? If so do you know what it takes to make the 9 Blade fit into the SL model? Is it different bearings etc?...


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## Dad_Who_Mows_Best

williams6966 said:


> I've read conflicting things can you please help clarify. I want my cut kept between .50-.75... Would a 9 Blade or 11 blade reel be better? 2 does the 9 Blade actually fit the SL model? If so do you know what it takes to make the 9 Blade fit into the SL model? Is it different bearings etc?...


I can answer the 9 blade working question. I was told by R&R products for a 9 blade to fit where the mower had an 11 blade (my 2013 SL), the seal is different. This was after I sent the 9 blade back thinking it just wouldn't work, when it can if you change out the seal too.

Direct quote
"The ET11055 reel uses a ET11063 seal.

The AMT537 reel uses a MT1160 seal.

The OD of the seals are the same, but the ET11063 has a 22mm ID and the MT1160 seal has a 25mm ID."

Michael


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## williams6966

Dad_Who_Mows_Best said:


> williams6966 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've read conflicting things can you please help clarify. I want my cut kept between .50-.75... Would a 9 Blade or 11 blade reel be better? 2 does the 9 Blade actually fit the SL model? If so do you know what it takes to make the 9 Blade fit into the SL model? Is it different bearings etc?...
> 
> 
> 
> I can answer the 9 blade working question. I was told by R&R products for a 9 blade to fit where the mower had an 11 blade (my 2013 SL), the seal is different. This was after I sent the 9 blade back thinking it just wouldn't work, when it can if you change out the seal too.
> 
> Direct quote
> "The ET11055 reel uses a ET11063 seal.
> 
> The AMT537 reel uses a MT1160 seal.
> 
> The OD of the seals are the same, but the ET11063 has a 22mm ID and the MT1160 seal has a 25mm ID."
> 
> Michael
Click to expand...

Thank you sir


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## williams6966

Is this nut or the one on the other side left hand thread?


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