# Suggestion for Grub control



## ejudgie

I got hit with a bad grub problem in the Fall where a skunk tore up the lawn and so I was looking for some advice on how to address the problem this year. I assume I want to put something down early to kill the grubs, then plant grass seed and then use something more long term (I have used Merit in the past) in the summer so the same problem does not occur in the Fall. Does this sound like a good plan and if so what products should I use and timing of application (I live in Massachusetts)? I used organic fertilizer last year from Espoma and it worked well (maybe too well  ). Are there any safer grub control products that work? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Ed


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## daniel3507

Milky spore is the only "organic" one I'm aware of. A lot of us here use Grubex in the spring and have good luck with it


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## Ware

I apply GrubEx around April 15th each year.


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## Green

daniel3507 said:


> Milky spore is the only "organic" one I'm aware of.


There is also GrubGone (Bacillus spore), but it's brand new and probably still freakishly expensive. FYI, they say early August for applying it in CT.

We really need another mode of action that we can cycle with, since Chlorantraniliprole is the only one in many places now. In some places, you can still use Imidacloprid. For someone who used Merit in the past year or two, I'd use the Chlorantraniliprole (GrubEx/Acelepryn). But it really needs to be put down between mid April and mid May in Northern locations. There is still a lot of misinformation out there about proper application timeframe. Too late, and it won't be effective. But it's definitely both safer and longer-lasting than Imidacloprid.


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## ejudgie

Thanks Everyone. What's the safest way to put this down?
Before it rains? Stay off it a day or 2 or until it dries?
I assume avoid all skin contact? 
Anything else?


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## Dkrem

I spray my yard with imitaclorprid.


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## BakerGreenLawnMaker

Any ideas as to what this is? It's definitely not an earthworm. Found this little guy in the soil beneath a dead spot in my SA


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## ejudgie

Does anyone know if GrubEx works right away? Is it considered a "curative"? Skunks are back and I am looking for something quickly. I saw this as it seems to kill them in 24 hours.

https://www.amazon.com/Bayer-Advanced-700740S-Granules-10-Pounds/dp/B001H1GQ54/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Bioadvanced+24-Hour+Grub+Killer+Plus+Granules&qid=1584570222&sr=8-2

If I used this product I would also put something down later to control it going forward. Thoughts?


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## 440mag

Here's an excellent (somewhat perennial although this link is the 2018 (latest I have) version: https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/how_to_choose_and_when_to_apply_grub_control_products_for_your_lawn

Hope it helps.

That grub does not appear to be a Japanese Beetle and I am an unfortunate discoverer that there actually exist at least a few grub species that are not fazed by any grub chemicals available currently. I.e., the dreaded wire worm

For them (actually, ANY grub population under my turf!), I prefer Live Beneficial Live Nematodes over chemicals - the more grubs they cannibalize and lay eggs in, the more they reproduce; and, not only do you have less grubs, you have more and more beneficial nematodes. (Saw a time frame shot video once where the hatching nematodes "explode" the grubs from the inside out! = grubs gone for keeps!)

https://www.arbico-organics.com/product ... -nematodes

I always try to put them out when they - and thus the soil - will stay the coolest and moistest the longest. Extreme heat will kill the nematodes and they require moisture to survive (and reproduce).

That almost always means spraying them just at / after dusk if not twilight for me (I always know I've timed it right when I am putting away the hose and sprayer, etc in complete darkness, ha-ha! ... :lol:

The first time I used them was kind of comical looking back on it; I was in a bit of a panic over the damage being done by those wire worms and as luck would have it the delivery didn't arrive until very (very!) late in the day. It was late Spring early / early summer and so, I found myself finishing in complete darkness, ha-ha. The next time I ordered them I had my buckets ready - I filled buckets with water a day or two ahead of delivery so any chlorine or other chemicals the municipality adds to our water could dissipate - and my hoses laid out (quite a task given the size of our yard! :shock:

I can say it was / remains worth the little bit of trouble I go to every other (or third year, sans any evidence of subterranean trouble makers)

The folks I buy from (link provided in preceding post) are good about advising how many millions per square foot area you can expect t and I go by their rates.

Yes, I use a plain ol' hose end sprayer with any fine filter removed; dispersing them across a wide area is very easy (tip: use a ton of blue food dye to avoid wasting the little buggers by overspraying any area unnecessarily) and to be honest I just watched some YouTube videos. THIS was actually one of those I 
https://youtu.be/sXPJJx_U4E0


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## 440mag

ejudgie said:


> Does anyone know if GrubEx works right away? Is it considered a "curative"?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Bayer-Advanced-700740S-Granules-10-Pounds/dp/B001H1GQ54/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=Bioadvanced+24-Hour+Grub+Killer+Plus+Granules&qid=1584570222&sr=8-2
> 
> If I used this product I would also put something down later to control it going forward. Thoughts?


I would (edit, what I have done is):

1) go with Bayer Advanced 24 hr Grub Killer Plus - Granular (trichlorfon 9.3%) NOW ASAP! and be sure to water it in deep and sufficiently id label calls for it 
AND THEN, 
2) go with Scott's GrubEx (chlorantraniliprole 0.08%) mid-April to May 1

I think the brand name you ask about ("GrubEx") is very different from the product you provide a link to.

Here is a snip I keep in my chemical locker, from that MSU guide, above and preceding post:

- The preventive compound chlorantraniliprole should ideally be applied in April or May to control grubs that would be damaging turf in the fall as it will take longer for the material to move to where the grubs will be feeding in July.
- To kill grubs in the spring or fall, use carbaryl or trichlorfon.

*Available preventive products*

*Scotts Grub-Ex - Granular*
chlorantraniliprole 0.08%
Apply between April 1 and May 30 (no later than July 15) for best results.

*Bayer Advanced Season-Long Grub Control and Turf Revitalizer* - Granular
imidacloprid 0.25% and a low fertilizer rate (6-0-1)
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.
(local distributors name)

*Premium Grub Control* (Do not confuse with "Premium Insect Control")
imidacloprid 0.2% - Granular
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.

*Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer Liquid *attach-to-hose-bottle
cyfluthrin 0.36% and imidacloprid 0.72%
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.

*Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer Granules - Granular*
cyfluthrin 0.05% and imidacloprid 0.15%
Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.

*Available curative products*

Sevin Lawn Insect Granules - Granular carbaryl 2.0%
Apply in spring or fall to active grubs.

Bayer Advanced 24 hr Grub Killer Plus - Granular trichlorfon 9.3%
Apply in spring or fall to active grubs.

*Products that will NOT kill grubs*

Spectracide Triazicide Insect Killer for Lawns - Granular
gamma-cyhalothrin 0.05%
This product will not kill grubs at any rate. This product was tested by MSU for grub control in 2006 and gave identical results as the untreated plots.


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## 440mag

ejudgie said:


> What's the safest way to put this down?


Not sure if you're referring to the Milky Disease Spore or, one of the other products mentioned?

If you're referring to the Milky Disease Spore, I punched a half dozen or so 1/8" to 3/16" holes in the bottom of an old soup can and used screws to fasten that can to an old broom stick, about 4" or so up from the bottom of the stick. I mowed the lawn shorter than usual (for me and TTTF that is 2" or 2-1/2" or so) and then I "walked" my yard in exaggerated steps, "thumping" the stick each time my right foot hit the ground. One large step for me is easily 3-feet and so when I finished I had a perfect "checkerboard effect" of hundreds of evenly spaced white spots across our terrain, each dot of white about 6' in all directions from any other marked spot.

The instructions will tell you if you need to "water-in" Milky Disease Spore; I honestly cannot remember - we have only used it once to deal with being overrun by hordes of Japanese Beetles and since putting Milky Disease Spore down back in 2014-15 we have NOT had to repeat it, for Jap Beetles anyway.)

I will say this: I was skeptical but, ... the ... stuff ... REALLY ... works!


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## uts

440mag said:


> Here is a snip I keep in my chemical locker, from that MSU guide, above and preceding post:
> 
> - The preventive compound chlorantraniliprole should ideally be applied in April or May to control grubs that would be damaging turf in the fall as it will take longer for the material to move to where the grubs will be feeding in July.
> - To kill grubs in the spring or fall, use carbaryl or trichlorfon.
> 
> *Available preventive products*
> 
> *Scotts Grub-Ex - Granular*
> chlorantraniliprole 0.08%
> Apply between April 1 and May 30 (no later than July 15) for best results.
> 
> *Bayer Advanced Season-Long Grub Control and Turf Revitalizer* - Granular
> imidacloprid 0.25% and a low fertilizer rate (6-0-1)
> Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.
> (local distributors name)
> 
> *Premium Grub Control* (Do not confuse with "Premium Insect Control")
> imidacloprid 0.2% - Granular
> Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.
> 
> *Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer Liquid *attach-to-hose-bottle
> cyfluthrin 0.36% and imidacloprid 0.72%
> Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.
> 
> *Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer Granules - Granular*
> cyfluthrin 0.05% and imidacloprid 0.15%
> Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.
> 
> *Available curative products*
> 
> Sevin Lawn Insect Granules - Granular carbaryl 2.0%
> Apply in spring or fall to active grubs.
> 
> Bayer Advanced 24 hr Grub Killer Plus - Granular trichlorfon 9.3%
> Apply in spring or fall to active grubs.
> 
> *Products that will NOT kill grubs*
> 
> Spectracide Triazicide Insect Killer for Lawns - Granular
> gamma-cyhalothrin 0.05%
> This product will not kill grubs at any rate. This product was tested by MSU for grub control in 2006 and gave identical results as the untreated plots.


I was looking at grub and insect control options and this is exactly what I needed. Can we sticky this somewhere for newbies like me who are looking for different options.

Also if we can add different professional products of the same AI that would help people who are looking for most cost effective options for larger lawns. The same way we have the fungicide guide!!

Interestingly I had no idea that spectricide does NOT kill grubs even though stated on it. It worked wonderfully for ants that I had last season coming into the house. I thought I had grubs covered as well.

Does anyone use a commercial/pro product for grub control? I want to stick to a granular product just for the sake of fumes/inhalation of any and obviously it's easier.

I did look at Acelepryn G and also at IMIDACLOPRID 0.5G/Merit but dont know the pro/cons over each other or any other product?

A few fast calculations that I did (taking average prices not discounted)

Grub ex 30lb (chlorantraniliprole 0.08%) = $48
Max Coverage 10,000sqft. 
AI/M= 0.24%
Price/M= $4.8

Acelepryn G 25lb (chlorantraniliprole 0.2%) =$120
Max coverage (based on 1.15lb/M on label)= 21800sqft
AI/M=0.23%
Price/M=$5.52

Anyone has any better options?

P.S my intention was not to hijack this thread.


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## Dkrem

uts said:


> I want to stick to a granular product just for the sake of fumes/inhalation of any and obviously it's easier.


My viewpoint is actually the complete opposite of this statement, at least for me in my environment.

I use liquid Imidacloprid (Dominion 2L) and load it up in my trailer sprayer and just go to town. Done correctly I don't get any on me or even catch a smell of what I'm spraying from the nozzles about 5 feet to my rear. I also have a tow behind granular spreader and find its distribution to be far less easy to control compared to spraying. In this class of stuff liquid concentrates are far cheaper per area treated compared to granular. So spraying is both easier for me, and cheaper for me. The price I paid for my 2.5Gal jug of Imidacloprid puts me at $0.30/M to spray my yard.

For walk behind or hand options... Yeah, spraying out in front of you naturally causes you to have to pass through it, same with granular push spreaders. The only real solution there is long boots or waders.


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## uts

Dkrem said:


> uts said:
> 
> 
> 
> I want to stick to a granular product just for the sake of fumes/inhalation of any and obviously it's easier.
> 
> 
> 
> My viewpoint is actually the complete opposite of this statement, at least for me in my environment.
> 
> I use liquid Imidacloprid (Dominion 2L) and load it up in my trailer sprayer and just go to town. Done correctly I don't get any on me or even catch a smell of what I'm spraying from the nozzles about 5 feet to my rear. I also have a tow behind granular spreader and find its distribution to be far less easy to control compared to spraying. In this class of stuff liquid concentrates are far cheaper per area treated compared to granular. So spraying is both easier for me, and cheaper for me. The price I paid for my 2.5Gal jug of Imidacloprid puts me at $0.30/M to spray my yard.
> 
> For walk behind or hand options... Yeah, spraying out in front of you naturally causes you to have to pass through it, same with granular push spreaders. The only real solution there is long boots or waders.
Click to expand...

That's the advantage of having a tow behind which I do not have. If I end up getting a new mower then yes, I will def plan that. For now it's a 4gal sprayers plus backpack sprayer taht I will be using for almost everything.


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## 440mag

Hi, uts, dkrem - good evening, all!

Dkrem, it is not possible for me to quantify the envy I have for anyone with terrain that will allow for a tow behind. Sigh, there are sooo many advantages to living in The Foothills (emphasis on the "hills") but, tow behinds and even push tank spreaders aren't among 'em! 

Uts, you may want to simply "Bookmark" or "Save to Favorites" this link - it is to the wonderful guide from the wonderful folks at Michigan State University (GO Spartans!  and one advantage of your "bookmarking" it over any sticky is you will likely access the updated version they put out every other year or 3. Here you go!:

*How to choose and when to apply grub control products for your lawn*_Not all the grub control products on store shelves will be effective this spring. Here's how to choose and use the right one for your lawn_: https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/how_to_choose_and_when_to_apply_grub_control_products_for_your_lawn

I may be wrong (I can't go to sleep unless I'm wrong at least 1/2 dozen times that day! :lol: ) but, I'm pretty sure "the Pros" use the very same active ingredients we do, just under different labels (and mayyyyyyybe stronger concentrations although I doubt that somewhat).

1) Bayer Advanced 24 hr Grub Killer Plus - Granular (trichlorfon 9.3%) Spring / Fall; AND, 
2) Scott's GrubEx (chlorantraniliprole 0.08%) mid-April to May 1

Either way, the grubs don't know it / any difference as they are croaking! :twisted:

And, I don't see no hijacking goin' on - it's all about protecting our turfs tender toes (roots) from dem nasty grubs! :thumbup:


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## Dkrem

Before the tow behind I used my trusty Ortho dial-and-pray hose-end for broadcast applications. They do work quite well if you know what you are doing, and pre-dilute specially strong concentrates.

Yep, pro chemicals and our chemicals are really the same with only a few restricted availability and use exceptions, the differences are usually that pro labeled stuff is more concentrated in the container, and available in larger containers. But mixed up and applied it is the same amount of chemical per M (same EPA labels apply).


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## uts

Dkrem said:


> Before the tow behind I used my trusty Ortho dial-and-pray hose-end for broadcast applications. They do work quite well if you know what you are doing, and pre-dilute specially strong concentrates.
> 
> Yep, pro chemicals and our chemicals are really the same with only a few restricted availability and use exceptions, the differences are usually that pro labeled stuff is more concentrated in the container, and available in larger containers. But mixed up and applied it is the same amount of chemical per M (same EPA labels apply).


From what I have seen pro versions are more co concentrated, bigger packaging and are noticeably cheaper/M when taking the whole bag/bottle into account. That helps people who have larger lawns. In the case of grub control though, no granular has come close to being economical - I know, I know liquid is the way to go I guess.


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## 2strokeracer

440mag said:


> *Products that will NOT kill grubs*
> 
> Spectracide Triazicide Insect Killer for Lawns - Granular
> gamma-cyhalothrin 0.05%
> This product will not kill grubs at any rate. This product was tested by MSU for grub control in 2006 and gave identical results as the untreated plots.


Wish I would have read this before dumping an entire bag on my lawn


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## JBC-1

Any advice for someone in Canada who can't get their hands on all of the items listed above?

I notices Scotts has a new product "Grub BGone" but since its so new there are no reviews.

Also anyone know if Wollastonite is any good. I can get this product and they say its great for killing grubs, but I just don't know.


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## g-man

@JBC-1 look at active ingredients on those products. Brand names are not that important.


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## JBC-1

The active ingredient in the Scotts Brub BGone is (Bacillus thuringiensis subsp. galleriae strain SDS-502).

Wollastonite is a calcium inosilicate mineral (CaSiO3) that may contain small amounts of iron, magnesium, and manganese substituting for calcium.


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## g-man

I don't know how either one of those will help.


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## Ohio Lawn

Ware said:


> I apply GrubEx around April 15th each year.


Would you apply grub prevention to a 1 year old lawn? Or wait to see if there is a grub problem down the road?


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## Ware

@Ohio Lawn I don't think it would hurt.

I've never had a grub problem, but I still apply it as a preventive - in the same way I do pre-e. On the other hand, I would not apply a curative grub product unless I had an issue - in the same way we do post-e herbicides.


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## g-man

On a new cool season lawn, to me it is almost a must do. A new lawn doesnt have a strong root system, so why take a risk with grubs eating the roots?


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## Ohio Lawn

@Ware @g-man Imidacloprid or chlorantraniliprole?


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## g-man

It depends. Read the article from MSU in this Grub Control thread


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## Ohio Lawn

g-man said:


> It depends. Read the article from MSU in this Grub Control thread


Thanks. I read the MSU article and it didn't really help me choose between Imidacloprid or chlorantraniliprole. Imidacloprid looks a lot cheaper especially with things like this https://www.domyown.com/prime-source-imidacloprid-2f-ti-p-12208.html. 
It would be nice to find chlorantraniliprole is a less expensive form than Grub-Ex.


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## g-man

Both works, pick the one you prefer.


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## DuncanMcDonuts

I prefer chlorantraniliprole because it has less risk towards bees.


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## Jordan90

I've heard good things about acelepryn as a preventative. Seems pricey but a lot less expensive than grub damage.


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## Matthew_73

How soon should you water Grubex in? Day. 2-3 days? Week? I have a window to apply but rain in a few days.


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## ejudgie

I am kind of late in getting my grub control down this year. I live in Massachusetts, and I am trying to decide between the following 3 options:


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053S5ATU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A19ACGBD0C3FXF&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050DW2M6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09K95XHY4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Is anyone better than the other? Will all work if I get it done by July 15?


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## 440mag

ejudgie said:


> I am kind of late in getting my grub control down this year. I live in Massachusetts, and I am trying to decide between the following 3 options:
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053S5ATU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A19ACGBD0C3FXF&psc=1
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050DW2M6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09K95XHY4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
> Is anyone better than the other? Will all work if I get it done by July 15?


Your are certainly "pushing the envelope" and as much as I prefer the active ingredient in the GrubEx (chlorantraniloprole), that a.i. (chlorantraniloprole) takes more time to reach the critical soil depth so, were it I, I simply couldn't get the Merit (your first link I believe) down and **thoroughly watered in** quick enough!

(Side note: LOL, the fact we are quickly coming up on the "too late, for grubs" point for the Merit - your first link - probably explains why the Amazon link shows the price as "29% off" although that is the same price shown at DMOPC …)

From the MSU article:

"_Products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam, clothianidin or chlorantraniloprole will not control grubs in the spring. They are preventive products that work very well on newly hatched grubs present in July, but do not work well for large grubs found from September to May. There are different recommended timings for application depending on the active ingredient. Although the bag often says apply anytime from May to Aug. 15, *it is highly recommended that products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam, clothianidin be applied and irrigated into the soil in June or July*. If applied in early spring, the pesticide may move through the soil or partially degrade by the time the grubs hatch in late July. If applied too late, preventative products may not be effective as they work best on small grubs._

_Preventive products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam or clothianidin will consistently reduce 75-100% of the grubs if they are applied in June or July and *if they are watered-in with 0.5 inches of irrigation immediately after application*. Lawn sprinklers can be used if you do not have an irrigation system.

There is another active ingredient in some insecticides called chlorantraniliprole that will also work in preventing grub problems, but it is less water soluble than the other preventive compounds mentioned above, so it can be applied any time after the grass turns green in the spring. Chlorantraniliprole can be applied as early as April and up to mid-July. This chemical consistently reduced grub numbers by about 65-80% and research has shown that applications made before June are more efficacious than June or July application_."


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## robjak

https://gddtracker.msu.edu/?model=11&offset=0&zip=18707

First uses Imidacloprid which can go down now and I mean ASAP. Water in right after. 
cheaper alt: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPD60A/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza

The third might use Imidacloprid. Conflicting info.

2nd one needed to be put down in April or May.


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## robjak

440 Bioadvanced website shows the newer version of their season long grub killer has an AI of imidacloprid and not the lamda-cyhalthorin as listed on Amazon.


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## ejudgie

440mag said:


> ejudgie said:
> 
> 
> 
> I am kind of late in getting my grub control down this year. I live in Massachusetts, and I am trying to decide between the following 3 options:
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0053S5ATU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A19ACGBD0C3FXF&psc=1
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050DW2M6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09K95XHY4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
> Is anyone better than the other? Will all work if I get it done by July 15?
> 
> 
> 
> Your are certainly "pushing the envelope" and as much as I prefer the active ingredient in the GrubEx (chlorantraniloprole), that a.i. (chlorantraniloprole) takes more time to reach the critical soil depth so, were it I, I simply couldn't get the Merit (your first link I believe) down and **thoroughly watered in** quick enough!
> 
> (Side note: LOL, the fact we are quickly coming up on the "too late, for grubs" point for the Merit - your first link - probably explains why the Amazon link shows the price as "29% off" although that is the same price shown at DMOPC …)
> 
> From the MSU article:
> 
> "_Products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam, clothianidin or chlorantraniloprole will not control grubs in the spring. They are preventive products that work very well on newly hatched grubs present in July, but do not work well for large grubs found from September to May. There are different recommended timings for application depending on the active ingredient. Although the bag often says apply anytime from May to Aug. 15, *it is highly recommended that products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam, clothianidin be applied and irrigated into the soil in June or July*. If applied in early spring, the pesticide may move through the soil or partially degrade by the time the grubs hatch in late July. If applied too late, preventative products may not be effective as they work best on small grubs._
> 
> _Preventive products containing imidacloprid, thiamethoxam or clothianidin will consistently reduce 75-100% of the grubs if they are applied in June or July and *if they are watered-in with 0.5 inches of irrigation immediately after application*. Lawn sprinklers can be used if you do not have an irrigation system.
> 
> There is another active ingredient in some insecticides called chlorantraniliprole that will also work in preventing grub problems, but it is less water soluble than the other preventive compounds mentioned above, so it can be applied any time after the grass turns green in the spring. Chlorantraniliprole can be applied as early as April and up to mid-July. This chemical consistently reduced grub numbers by about 65-80% and research has shown that applications made before June are more efficacious than June or July application_."
> 
> IT IS WORTH NOTING the a.i. in your third link (Bio-Advanced "Season Long Grub Control") is *lamda-cyhalthorin and iirc one of the a.i.'s / products SPECIFICALLY CALLED OUT AS ESSENTIALLY USELESS AGAINST GRUBS* (at least it is on my own personal list of products to NOT BUY "for grub" curative or preventative …
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for the reply. Just to clarify. Did you mean "would" instead of "couldn't" above?
ie "I simply *would* get the Merit (your first link I believe) down and **thoroughly watered in** quick enough!"
If so, I will go with that solution. Thanks.


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## 440mag

ejudgie said:


> Thank you very much for the reply. Just to clarify. Did you mean "would" instead of "couldn't" above?
> ie "I simply *would* get the Merit (your first link I believe) down and **thoroughly watered in** quick enough!"
> If so, I will go with that solution. Thanks.


Yes. I WOULD get that Merit (or any imidacloprid) down and irrigated in sufficiently ASAP

(Saying "I couldn't get it down fast enough" probably comes from a combination of: a) playing blackjack in a former life; and, b) a post graduate environ where assignments were handed down with "word-count" requirements ("10,000 words," etc.) instead of "pages." :lol:



robjak said:


> 440 Bioadvanced website shows the newer version of their season long grub killer has an AI of imidacloprid and not the lamda-cyhalthorin as listed on Amazon.


Ahhhhh, I missed that entirely! (Edited my original post deleting the erroneous info) :thumbup:


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## Green

daniel3507 said:


> Milky spore is the only "organic" one I'm aware of. A lot of us here use Grubex in the spring and have good luck with it


Not so anymore!

I used GrubGone last September for the first time. It's a brand new grub prevention the last few years. There are other brands of the same thing, as well. The Andersons has their own version of it, for example. This one goes down in late Summer for best results, unlike the others.

The year before, I used nothing.

The 5 or so years prior to that, I used Grubex / Acelepryn in April or May.

Prior to that, it was Merit / Imidacloprid in July (but not every year in a row).

In the future, I plan to alternate yearly between GrubGone and Grubex / Acelepryn, (leaning heavier toward GrubGone due to my history of using Grubex 4-5 years in a row when nothing else was available for DIYers in my state) and occasionally plan to just skip a year all together.

My goal is to manage resistance and also to keep off-target effects minimal. Merit has been "restricted use only" for grub prevention in my state for more than several years now. It's only sold to licensed pros here, now, it's not an option for rotation.


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## robjak

440,

Your original post was not erroneous. Amazon was still showing the old bag, so if bought you never know what Amazon would ship. One of the issues with buying from Amazon.


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## Akam

I put down GrubEx (chlorantraniliprole) in April and my landscaper put Allectus (imidacloprid) in July. Are there interactions between these two that should concern me or will the grubs just be extra controlled this year?


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## Pschultz91

Hello Everyone,

I have a relatively new lawn. The sod was laid around Early February and I have noticed some spots that could be grubs. Has anyone here had any good luck with using "The Andersons DuoCide".


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## Green

Akam said:


> I put down GrubEx (chlorantraniliprole) in April and my landscaper put Allectus (imidacloprid) in July. Are there interactions between these two that should concern me or will the grubs just be extra controlled this year?


Never heard of any interactions. But it would probably be rare that both would be needed so close together. Allectus has Imidacloprid (and Bifenthrin too for surface feeding insects), which should be sufficient alone for grubs. I would rather see you rotate between the two every year or two than to use both for the same pest a few months apart. Then again, things happen sometimes and it's possible you guys just didn't coordinate. It's also possible he used a lower rate if he knew you had put down the other.


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## Akam

Green said:


> Never heard of any interactions. But it would probably be rare that both would be needed so close together. Allectus has Imidacloprid (and Bifenthrin too for surface feeding insects), which should be sufficient alone for grubs. I would rather see you rotate between the two every year or two than to use both for the same pest a few months apart. Then again, things happen sometimes and it's possible you guys just didn't coordinate. It's also possible he used a lower rate if he knew you had put down the other.


Yeah miscommunication. I find my landscaper tends to miss half the lawn when he applies anything so I got a drop spreader and do everything myself now, and I get much more even coverage. Half the lawn never get fertilizer before and the difference is pretty obvious.


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## Green

Akam said:


> Green said:
> 
> 
> 
> Never heard of any interactions. But it would probably be rare that both would be needed so close together. Allectus has Imidacloprid (and Bifenthrin too for surface feeding insects), which should be sufficient alone for grubs. I would rather see you rotate between the two every year or two than to use both for the same pest a few months apart. Then again, things happen sometimes and it's possible you guys just didn't coordinate. It's also possible he used a lower rate if he knew you had put down the other.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah miscommunication. I find my landscaper tends to miss half the lawn when he applies anything so I got a drop spreader and do everything myself now, and I get much more even coverage. Half the lawn never get fertilizer before and the difference is pretty obvious.
Click to expand...

Sounds like it might be time to take over fertilizing duties fully from him.


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