# How are these soil test results? Is this a standard method?



## Muddysneakers77 (Nov 3, 2018)

Attached are two(2) soil tests for my yard. One is the 'Old Lawn' about 1.5 years old (came with new home construction), and the second is the 'New Lawn' that I installed in the summer of 2018 over my drain field.

http://imgur.com/gallery/9OJ899w

http://imgur.com/gallery/MMlN2hz

I went with a full spectrum soil test (all macros and micros).

I notice the ph is slightly acidic (standard for this area), and a lot of the macros (Sulfur) are 'VERY HIGH,' except for P. I've only used Milorganite fertilizer (every 6 weeks) and expected the Iron to be very high; but to have the P high and K very high seems odd with this fertilizer. Guess that is why a soil test is important!

How does everything look? Any recommendations?

I got nailed hard with P. Blight, rust, red-thread this past summer, on my PRG and I do not want to have the same issues again.


----------



## gpbrown60 (Apr 7, 2018)

I can see the New lawn test now. Did you have the option of getting the Cation Exchange Capacity (CEC) and Base Saturation % of Magnesium, Calcium, Sodium and Sodium?


----------



## Muddysneakers77 (Nov 3, 2018)

I thought all of that stuff would be included in a full spectrum analysis, but I guess it was not included.

From a brief overview of posts I've read here, some of the macros/micros need to be in check/cannot be absorbed when other things are out of optimal range. I know that I have a lot 'Very High' items, but am having trouble figuring out how to remedy. Among other things.


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I think their recommendations are pretty good. They did not test for cec. They use Bray for their phosphorus and it seems like it continues to be low, but not deficient. Did you only use Milo in the past for your phosphorus? I would consider a synthetic one (triple super phosphate 0-46-0).

In the lime I would use calcitic lime to avoid increasing the magnesium. I don't think you need to remedy anything else. The fungus issues you had don't seem to be related to the soil.


----------



## Muddysneakers77 (Nov 3, 2018)

I only used Milo for my fertilizer. Any brand recommendations for the triple super phosphate?

I have been debating which calcitic lime to use. Solu-cal vs Mag-i-cal. Suggestions?

This was my mentality for the coming spring here in Seattle, please advice is this is sufficient?

Aerate in the spring. Same day as aeration, apply quick release Mag-i-cal and Andersons HumicDG and an organic fertilizer. I was thinking 'Purely Organic fertilizer' ...but now, with P being lower end, go back to Milorganite.

Thoughts?


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

For the TSP (0-46-0), go with the cheapest you could find.

The same with calcitic lime. I think the Lowe's brand is the cheapest one (sta-green), from what I remember reading from other members.

I don't aerate unless I'm adding sand or compost. There are a lot of opinions around aeration. I don't see a prem in your plan. If crabgrass is a problem in your area, I would suggest adding it.

Milo is a good product, but could turn expensive if it your only fertilizer source. TSP would allow to decouple your N from your P.


----------



## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

http://www.simplysoiltesting.com/methods.html
You can find the sufficiency ranges for each type of test used and the nutrient in my soil test thread.


----------

