# Best Amendment to Lower pH



## Slingblade_847 (Apr 13, 2020)

Hey Fellas -

Currently have a soil pH of 7.6, and looking to renovate my lawn this year. While this isnt an alarming pH, i would like to get it down a smidge. Any recommendations on safest route? - ammonium sulfate, citric acid, elemental sulfur, etc.?? Looking for a quicker fix, but not looking to dump 20lbs/ksqft either. Recommendations appreciated, and thanks in advance!


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

I got my soil test and mine is 7.7. While I have a thread for my soil test, I am posting to see what suggestions you get as well.


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## ABC123 (Jul 14, 2017)

I've used elemental sulfur at 2lb/k only done it twice though and haven't re tested.


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## bernstem (Jan 16, 2018)

General recommendations for reducing pH are elemental sulfur at 10 lb/1000/year with a max single application rate of 5 lbs/1000. Sulfur is a long term reduction, but only works in hot weather. Citric acid can be used as a short term reduction at 1-2 lbs/1000/month. Citric acid needs to be watered in immediately to prevent burning. Ammonium Sulfate as a Nitrogen source will also reduce pH. How much elemental sulfur you need would be determined by a soil test.


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

bernstem said:


> General recommendations for reducing pH are elemental sulfur at 10 lb/1000/year with a max single application rate of 5 lbs/1000. Sulfur is a long term reduction, but only works in hot weather. Citric acid can be used as a short term reduction at 1-2 lbs/1000/month. Citric acid needs to be watered in immediately to prevent burning. Ammonium Sulfate as a Nitrogen source will also reduce pH. How much elemental sulfur you need would be determined by a soil test.


Where I get it doesn't really get that hot that often. If I were to use elemental sulfur, does that mean it would only begin to work when the temperatures rise? Or would it be a waste to apply it prior to having high temps?


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## bernstem (Jan 16, 2018)

@turfnsurf If you apply in cold weather, it will just sit there until it gets hot enough for soil microbes to use it.


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## Mr McTurf (Jun 21, 2018)

If you irrigate your lawn, you should check the pH of your irrigation water.


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## tragiclawn (Oct 4, 2020)

bernstem said:


> General recommendations for reducing pH are elemental sulfur at 10 lb/1000/year with a max single application rate of 5 lbs/1000. Sulfur is a long term reduction, but only works in hot weather. Citric acid can be used as a short term reduction at 1-2 lbs/1000/month. Citric acid needs to be watered in immediately to prevent burning. Ammonium Sulfate as a Nitrogen source will also reduce pH. How much elemental sulfur you need would be determined by a soil test.


Hey @bernstem ,

When you say hot weather what do you mean by that? what temps and frequency should i be looking at for someone who lives in houston?


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## ruxie88 (Dec 20, 2018)

Slingblade_847 said:


> Hey Fellas -
> 
> Currently have a soil pH of 7.6, and looking to renovate my lawn this year. While this isnt an alarming pH, i would like to get it down a smidge. Any recommendations on safest route? - ammonium sulfate, citric acid, elemental sulfur, etc.?? Looking for a quicker fix, but not looking to dump 20lbs/ksqft either. Recommendations appreciated, and thanks in advance!


If you want to add OM, peat moss is acidic and will lower PH over time.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

The sulfur reducing bacteria are most active/efficient at 80 to 85 degrees F. They are less efficient at cooler and hotter temps. They are inactive at temps below around 55-60.

Regarding using peat: it will take about 10 lbs of a high quality peat to do the same acidifying as one pound of sulfur.


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## ruxie88 (Dec 20, 2018)

Ridgerunner said:


> The sulfur reducing bacteria are most active/efficient at 80 to 85 degrees F. They are less efficient at cooler and hotter temps. They are inactive at temps below around 55-60.
> 
> Regarding using peat: it will take about 10 lbs of a high quality peat to do the same acidifying as one pound of sulfur.


@Ridgerunner I've done all the above to successfully lower my PH. I also want to increase my OM. I just want to verify that peat would help more in this aspect compared to compost. I think we are seeking multiple ways to help lower PH knowing it is a "marathon" versus a " sprint". Thanks.


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## rjjrmiller (Jun 4, 2020)

Im at 7.5pH also and found using Ammonium Sulfate at closer to spoon feeding frequency apps and adding a smaller amount of Ammonium sulphate to my herbicides and basically whatever else I spray I'll add a small scoop to it. About 1/8th of my normally already very light application rate. Humic, fullvic micros, Tzone.
And to the water before adding any herbicide I bring down my pH with a really really small pinch of citric acid. Think the smallest spoon or cup in the kit. It's literally a pinch, not half a teaspoon, more like 1/20th a teaspoon (not tablespoon) to bring the water down from the mid 7s to the low 6s. Like an amount that counting the grains could be done if I wanted to...a pinch, so small it seems like its too small. That's for roughly 1k ft in a gallon or 1.5 max.

I'm pretty sure it's my water that is a little alkaline.


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## bernstem (Jan 16, 2018)

Peat moss has a pH of ~4 and will lower pH and add late stage organic matter. Compost pH varies from around 6 to 8 depending on what goes into it, but in my experience is usually on the alkaline side. You can ask the compost supplier what the pH is, but they may not know. Compost organic matter is also earlier stage than Peat Moss, and compost is ~50% water by weight. Between the two, Sphagnum Peat Moss is a much better choice to reduce soil pH while also adding organic matter.


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