# Fungicide help



## kur1j (Jul 2, 2017)

So, with everything it seems, the rabbit hole goes deeper than meets the eye.

Wanting to try and prevent some potential root rot (in some shrubs), kill some algae (should I bother), and I'm monitoring places for some potential dollar spot.

Is there a generic (2-4d type broad spectrum) fungicide that I should be looking to get? Should I be looking at more specific types of fungicide to specifically kill each one? Should I be applying fungicide preventatively or is this only an after the fact thing? Basically looking to open the can of warms on understanding fungicides and what is generally recommended.


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

For broad spectrum disease control, I like this. http://www.biosafesystems.com/zerotol-2-0/Very good safety profile once diluted and low risk of resistance. I consider it a first response while I figure out what is actually happening disease wise. This even works on algae and moss. I would not apply conventional fungicides unless I was sure of the disease I was targeting.


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## kur1j (Jul 2, 2017)

Would there happen to be a generic or a smaller batch size that you know of? I've got about 200sqft of algae along a fence line I would like to see if I could get rid of, 3 shrubs that I'm speculating might have root rot and watching my property line to see if my neighbors dollar spot will invade my lawn. So I probably wouldn't need a ton.

Also reading the label, it states to kill algae you would need a systemic product? What type of product would they be implying to use?l


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## Delmarva Keith (May 12, 2018)

kur1j said:


> So, with everything it seems, the rabbit hole goes deeper than meets the eye.
> 
> Wanting to try and prevent some potential root rot (in some shrubs), kill some algae (should I bother), and I'm monitoring places for some potential dollar spot.
> 
> Is there a generic (2-4d type broad spectrum) fungicide that I should be looking to get? Should I be looking at more specific types of fungicide to specifically kill each one? Should I be applying fungicide preventatively or is this only an after the fact thing? Basically looking to open the can of warms on understanding fungicides and what is generally recommended.


From what you've said, you want a broad spectrum fungicide / biocide with low resistance risk (you want to apply something that will take care of the issue without having to deal with rotating modes of action and exotic tank mixes, etc.), for root rot on shrubs. Broad spectrum with low resistance risk points to contact fungicides or phosphonates. Narrowing the choices further is what's approved for residential use (I assume you want to do this legally). Narrowing choices even further is the need for systemic action to deal with root diseases. This leaves pretty much only the phosphonate type fungicides (or biologicals, but I don't know much about them).

Qualipro foestyl-Al does appear to be labeled for ornamental landscape use to control a variety of root diseases. It is not labeled for residential turf. It is a broad spectrum, systemic fungicide with low resistance risk. It may fit what you are looking for.

For residential turf, I have yet to find a similar product. You can use a DMI / strob mix like Headway or mix it yourself at much lower cost, but it still retains high risk of resistance for multiple applications. I haven't been able to find anything that's cost effective to rotate to. Mefenoxam has been suggested but it's as expensive as the azoxystrobin, maybe more so, making for a pretty pricey overall program. I'm down that same rabbit hole :mrgreen: .


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Delmarva Keith said:


> ...You can use a DMI / strob mix like Headway...


Just a note - bermudagrass can be sensitive to Headway. Anyone applying it to bermuda should pay close attention to the limits on the label. :thumbsup:


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## kur1j (Jul 2, 2017)

@Delmarva Keith

Well I've got 1 issue and 2 potential issues.

The two potentials.

1) Root rot on shrubs. We just planted 3 gardenias and they are losing their leaves (yellowing and dropping). I don't think I'm underwatering because i've been watering every 2 days. I don't think they are being overwatered as I pulled one up to see if I had root rot and didn't see anything abnormal. But just preventatively was thinking to throw something down as we have had the issue in the past with other plants.

2) Dollar spot is in my neighborhood and it's in my neighbors yards (both sides). i hsvent seen any of it in mine yet, but wanted some on hand to try and take care of it if it showed up.

3)There is a fence line on my property line with one of my neighbors. This areas was in a drainage area and the fence hinders the flow of water so it stays more moist. This has caused algae to grow. Would like to take care of this problem.

Would you still second GreenDocs response? My biggest issue is that it's a lot for what I have to treat. It also says for algae to use another systemic product for control. Not sure what they would imply to use for thst.


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

You can definitely overwater shrubs.

There is this resource for your turfgrass http://turfdiseaseid.ncsu.edu/


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## kur1j (Jul 2, 2017)

Movingshrub said:


> You can definitely overwater shrubs.
> 
> There is this resource for your turfgrass http://turfdiseaseid.ncsu.edu/


I'm getting an error loading that page.


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## Delmarva Keith (May 12, 2018)

kur1j said:


> @Delmarva Keith
> 
> Well I've got 1 issue and 2 potential issues.
> 
> ...


The Qualipro product I mentioned above. That discussion was intended to address the root rot pathogens on ornamental shrubs. You may be overwatering. Keep an eye on the soil moisture. Don't let it get soggy. Just moist and let it get a little more toward "less moist" (not sure how to describe this - not dry but not very moist either) between waterings.



> 2) Dollar spot is in my neighborhood and it's in my neighbors yards (both sides). i hsvent seen any of it in mine yet, but wanted some on hand to try and take care of it if it showed up.


My answer concening residential turf above. There is no magic bullet. There is considerable research showing you can do a lot more damage than good if you don't either use a broad spectrum fungicide with low resistance risk, or rotate modes of action to ensure that you don't end up wiping out beneficial organisms while allowing some bad ones to flourish. There is no broad spectrum fungicide with low resistance risk that I'm aware of for residential turf. Rotating modes of action os a proven strategy but requires money and dedication. No easy fixes in this category.



> 3)There is a fence line on my property line with one of my neighbors. This areas was in a drainage area and the fence hinders the flow of water so it stays more moist. This has caused algae to grow. Would like to take care of this problem.


Unfortunately, you have to do something about the drainage. Killing the algae is just a short term, cosmetic solution. You can use something as simple as a dilute mix of bleach to kill algae. Do some test spots to get a feel for how high a dilution you can go without causing undesirable injury to nearby plants.



> Would you still second GreenDocs response? My biggest issue is that it's a lot for what I have to treat. It also says for algae to use another systemic product for control. Not sure what they would imply to use for thst.


I respect Greendoc's opinion and I know he has a lot of experience with his recommendations. All I can say about that product in particular is it wouldn't be what I would use for the root rot problem you mentioned..


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

kur1j said:


> Movingshrub said:
> 
> 
> > You can definitely overwater shrubs.
> ...


I visited it before I posted earlier and it work. I assume you broke it.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Ware said:


> Just a note - bermudagrass can be sensitive to Headway. Anyone applying it to bermuda should pay close attention to the limits on the label. :thumbsup:


 :twisted: What sort of damage it causes? :twisted:


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Low mowed Bermuda is stunted and damaged by Propiconazole and many other fungicides using the same MOA. To be safe, I use Myclobutanil(Eagle 20EW) instead of Propiconazole when I want a fungicide using that MOA.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

g-man said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> > Just a note - bermudagrass can be sensitive to Headway. Anyone applying it to bermuda should pay close attention to the limits on the label. :thumbsup:
> ...


 :lol:


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

kur1j said:


> Would there happen to be a generic or a smaller batch size that you know of? I've got about 200sqft of algae along a fence line I would like to see if I could get rid of, 3 shrubs that I'm speculating might have root rot and watching my property line to see if my neighbors dollar spot will invade my lawn. So I probably wouldn't need a ton.
> 
> Also reading the label, it states to kill algae you would need a systemic product? What type of product would they be implying to use?l


I do not see that on the label concerning needing other products to kill algae. This is one of the few products labeled and legal for controlling algae. The other products I know of are labeled for golf course use only. As for usage of the Zerotol, it is not applied as a low volume spray. I run the application through a hose end gun dispensing 1 oz per gallon and I drench soil, turf or plants needing treatment. 21/2 gallons does not go that far when applied that way.


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## kur1j (Jul 2, 2017)

It must be the old label or something.

https://www.pestrong.com/file/343-ZeroTol%20LABEL&MSDS

This is the area I'm having issues with the algae.

It's the lowest part of the properties and it leads water to the ditch which has a drain in it. Not sure what else I could do.

Older picture but same thing happens now when it rains.


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## Bkell101 (Jun 25, 2018)

Hey guys, new on here and pretty inexperienced on lawn stuff. My first ever home 😀.

I live in Cincinnati OH and my lawn is a mix of random types of grass as far as I can tell. Noticed quite a few weird brown spots and many areas that almost looked like a teenager with bleached blind tips from back in the 90's. Those pics are of the grass blades. I also noticed mushrooms popping up in my grass. I have a company I hired to do the fertilization and weed application program. They said it's fungus and that it's expensive to treat and would recommend just letting it run it's course. Somewhat surprised by their response.

1. Is just going to go away? Or will it spread a and cause long term damage to my yard year after year?

2. I would like to eventually educate myself and do the lawn program on my own (which is why I just signed up for this site)....if I were to treat it, what products and application schedule/frequency would you recommend to a rookie like myself that are fairly easy to use and apply?

Thanks!


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

@Bkell101 that definitely appears to be fungal. With your TTTF lawn and location, you may get more viewers and advice in the cool season forum.


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

kur1j said:


> It must be the old label or something.
> 
> https://www.pestrong.com/file/343-ZeroTol%20LABEL&MSDS
> 
> ...


I would bury either a channel drain or drain boxes where the water is standing and get it out of there. On the Zerotol, https://www.amazon.com/BioSafe-Dise...e=UTF8&qid=1530055488&sr=8-6&keywords=zerotol There is the same product in a consumer friendly size. If you see the reviews talking about burnt orchids, etc, that is because on tender plants, your dilution ratio is no more than a couple of teaspoons per gallon not the 1 oz that the hose end dispenser dilutes to. On hardy plants and turf, 1 oz per gallon is no problem.


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## Bkell101 (Jun 25, 2018)

Spammage said:


> @Bkell101 that definitely appears to be fungal. With your TTTF lawn and location, you may get more viewers and advice in the cool season forum.


Ok cool thanks!


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## kur1j (Jul 2, 2017)

@Greendoc oh awesome! Looks like the exact same AI. Do you think there would be much difference between the two of only percentages of AI?

As for the draining, would suspect a french drain would work? Not sure of any other methods where I could make the drain where it wouldn't be visible.


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

None whatsoever.

The French drain would be the other way to get rid of that standing water. Bermuda is not a water plant.


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## kur1j (Jul 2, 2017)

@Greendoc Thanks! I ordered the Zerotol.

You can't see it raining in the picture but that was last year right after a complete downpour. All of the water rushes down the side of the fence. That was right after they built the fence and first time I noticed it. The water doesn't stand in that area but it does stay really damp as it's just a lot of water. It flows out to drainage ditch.


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