# Weed Killer Killed my Bermuda grass. Help!



## cancun555 (Apr 5, 2020)

I applied some herbicide (Eraser 41% Weed Killer Herbicide Glyphosate-isopropylammonium) to my lawn that had patches of weeds everywhere. Lawn is dead now. I know I messed up, there was some miscommunication on what to apply. Can somebody advise me what to get preferably liquid to start my lawn to start accelerating its growth and make it green again? Any help will be appreciated.


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## Buster (Apr 3, 2020)

Oh man! Sorry this happened. Mistakes happen. I wish I had advice for you here.


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## Huff (Oct 22, 2018)

It's bermuda grass. It will eventually fill back in whether you do anything or not. If it was my lawn, I would make sure to throw the fertilizer at it, keep it watered and cut it short to encourage lateral growth. It may look bad for a while, but it will recover. It's just a matter of time,.


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## cancun555 (Apr 5, 2020)

What fertilizer would you guys recommend for best recover and growth?


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## Mister Bill (Apr 12, 2019)

You can't kill Bermuda that easily. It's not dead, it's just mad.

This occurs all too frequently. Well intentioned people giving advice to use glyphosate on "dormant" Bermuda. That advice may work in colder areas of the country, but in Atlanta, Bermuda rarely goes completely 100% dormant. If there is any green at the soil line, and there almost always is, you have witnessed the result firsthand. Don't fret, it will be good as new by mid season. Keep it watered at 1" per week and use slow release fertilizer at 1 pound nitrogen per 1,000 rate per month and it'll be as if nothing happened in short order.

If you have pre-m down using a lawn weasel to scratch up the dead areas will help it fill in quicker. Downside is you are inviting weeds, but it's a trade off to help rooting of the new turf growing in. You can deal with the weeds post treatment after the turf is filled back in. As for a magic liquid to repair the damage, that is an open end question that will lead you down a rabbit hole of no return. It will fill in quick enough on its own. Don't overthink it.


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## Darrell_KC (Mar 20, 2019)

Since it's bermuda, you can also use a Pro-Plugger or similar tool and transplant plugs from unaffected areas to open areas. You can also harvest the sprigs that will grow across your sidewalk or driveway, and instead of tossing them, clip them and plant them in bare areas. That will help get a little coverage back and is more of a "every little bit helps". The most important thing will be the fertilizer, low mowing and water as everyone has mentioned.


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## HarryZoysia (Aug 27, 2019)

Huff said:


> It's bermuda grass. It will eventually fill back in whether you do anything or not. If it was my lawn, I would make sure to throw the fertilizer at it, keep it watered and cut it short to encourage lateral growth. It may look bad for a while, but it will recover. It's just a matter of time,.


This. Throw some 34-0-0 on it every other week and water water water

Or put some plugs of green into it and do the above

It'll be back pretty quickly


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## CenlaLowell (Apr 21, 2017)

cancun555 said:


> What fertilizer would you guys recommend for best recover and growth?


Somewhere between 36-0-0 and 46-0-0 your local feed store should have this for a cheap price. Water plenty, now frequently. Update this thread as I'm curious to how long it will take.


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## Mister Bill (Apr 12, 2019)

I purposely did not mention the straight "hot stuff" because I didn't know the OP's experience with them, hence my rabbit hole comment. But, yea, that will git-r-done in a hurry IF he is experienced enough not to burn up the rest of the yard with it. :lol: :thumbup:


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## claydus (Jun 2, 2019)

Get a pro plugger and transplant some good grass to those areas. Add fertilizer and water like others said

https://proplugger.com/


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

I have a neighbor whose post-emergent regiment every single spring seems to be glyphosate, since he has these yellow spots throughout his lawn every year. I've never paid attention to how long it takes for them to come back but the lawn manages to repair itself without much fertilization, I'm sure. My guess is that the blades that came in contact w the glypho were killed but the systemic action of glypho doesn't get deep into the roots, and new growth gets pushed out eventually. I'd be curious myself to see how fast you can grow yours back - with the concerted effort that only TLF members can justify


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## cancun555 (Apr 5, 2020)

Okay thanks for the recommendations guys! greatly appreciated. I been seeing some fertilizers burn the lawn out. and I'm also planning to apply it to rest of my lawn.

Question: is 24-0-11 better than 30-0-0 for my dead spots?

I was looking at these two: 
1) Safer Brand Lawn Restore, 9-0-2, but won't burn lawn for any overseeding
2) Scotts® Turf Builder® Weed & Feed 28-0-3 or 28-0-4, saw this can burn lawn?


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## NCLTulsa (Sep 26, 2019)

Take your string trimmer ( weed eater, weed whacker) and scalp the dead areas down as low as you can go, down to dirt. This will help remove all the old dead Bermuda as well as increase the amount of sunlight that can come in contact with the stolons and rhyzomes left. Then follow the above fertilizer app. And continue to mow. It will bounce back in 4 weeks or so. I have accidentally grab the wrong spray tank and spot sprayer grass killer before.


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## HarryZoysia (Aug 27, 2019)

cancun555 said:


> Okay thanks for the recommendations guys! greatly appreciated. I been seeing some fertilizers burn the lawn out. and I'm also planning to apply it to rest of my lawn.
> 
> Question: is 24-0-11 better than 30-0-0 for my dead spots?
> 
> ...


Go to your local co-op and get some 34-0-0 or close to it. It'll be a TON cheaper there than a box store.

Don't use either one of those you listed for what you are doing. Never use the weed & feed.

As long as you don't put down a horrendous amount of high nitrogen fertilizer you aren't going to burn it. Just be sure to water it in immediately


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## cancun555 (Apr 5, 2020)

I couldn't find a high content 32-0-0 or above so using 28-0-3. Somebody told me to cut my lawn, water, apply the 28-0-3, and patch it with sand.

Does this method sound legit? What is purpose of the sand?


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## HarryZoysia (Aug 27, 2019)

cancun555 said:


> I couldn't find a high content 32-0-0 or above so using 28-0-3. Somebody told me to cut my lawn, water, apply the 28-0-3, and patch it with sand.
> 
> Does this method sound legit? What is purpose of the sand?


As long as it's not weed n feed. But you want to mow it, fertilize it, then water it. Don't water before fertilizer. Bermuda tends to like sand to spread on to. It's not necessary but it could make it spread more quickly


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## cancun555 (Apr 5, 2020)

Got it! What would go wrong if I put weed and feed?


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## HarryZoysia (Aug 27, 2019)

1. Weed n feed contains a herbicide to control broadleaf weeds. No need to put it down unless you have weeds
2. Weed n feed doesn't work that well as a herbicide anyway
3. Nitrogen without herbicide will work better for what you are doing
4. Weed n feed doesn't work that well
5. See 2 & 4 above


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## cancun555 (Apr 5, 2020)

If I have a lot of weeds, would you say go ahead and put weed and feed?

PS. I bought weed and feed bc that was the highest thing I could find close to 34-0-0, and I still have a lot of weeds.

I just mowed the lawn that had weeds. I have it in a mulch right now. Do you recommend spreading that over the dead spots after I put the weed and feed?


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## cancun555 (Apr 5, 2020)

I will return the weed and feed, and just get a regular turf builder Scotts 30-0-3 from another store. ill deal with the weeds later. Thoughts?


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## cutigers08 (Aug 16, 2019)

I would go to a SiteOne or feed and seed and make sure you are getting a urea fertilizer. Slow release is not what you want here. SiteOne near me has 28-0-3 for $30 for 50#. It's a Urea fert that I find easier to spread than the hotter stuff. I am not 100% but I would think the Scott's stuff is at least a blend of slow and fast release. Plus, you will spend a lot less through a place like SiteOne or a feed and seed.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

I say keep the weed & feed and use it, just make sure to follow the label directions. It specifies to apply on a wet lawn (early morning w dew out, or after an irrigation cycle). This helps the herbicide portion of the product stick to the weed blades better otherwise it won't work. 
This is precisely the reason why most TLF'ers on here prefer not to use a W&F. You get better control and efficacy from doing your nutrition & herbicide apps separate & distinct from each other. But if you don't have your post emergent liquid herbicides yet then this is the product to use anyhow.

My advice is to keep it simple. It's not the end of the world.. feed your lawn as you would normally. Well, maybe on the higher & more often side of 'normal' but with that same mindset. Get you a bag of 10-10-10 or 13-13-13 if you want some quicker release and apply at 2.5-3#/1000 every 2-3 weeks.

To recap: 
Use your Scott's weed & feed per label, now & again 30 days later.

Or

Apply something like a triple-10 or 13 at the lowest setting your spreader can muster a consistent application at, every 2 weeks.

Water fertilizer in.
Mow
Water
Mow

Come June you should see good progress.

Keep us posted.


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