# Another front lawn reno, Charlotte NC (Update 10/15- NEED HELP)



## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

Hey guys,

Just wanted to show everybody where I am at, and a couple questions...I know I will have more along the way. I was posting theses in a other thread, but didn't want to hijack that thread anymore, so I started my own. Located in Charlotte, NC FYI

Staring back in August I started spraying roundup on my lawn.....After 2-3 treatments I had pretty much killed off all the crab grass, clover, dallas grass, and what little fescue was there. Tested all my soil pH, and put down lime everywhere it was low (Mainly the areas I had trees taken down last year).

Got an aerator and did that in 4 different directions over the entire lawn....Spread Lesco starter fert, 18-24-12, a little bit more lime, and 250lbs of TTTF lesco seed. Watering 3 times daily for 15-20 min now. Have germination after only 5 DAYS, ONLY in the shady spots of my lawn....Makes me a little nervous. Today I decided to increase watering to 4x daily in ONLY the suny spots where germination is not happening so we will, see how things play out over the next week. Moving forward I am thinking that when I do my first cut (a few weeks out when grass reaches 3in) I will bust up the bare soil areas and seed the bare areas again with seed and do a round of milo.

My one question, I do feel like I am starting to see crab grass come up again...What would y'all recommend? Drive XLR8? Will the be to hard on the new seed? I just need to get my lawn established then I plan to start the GCI program if $$ will allow.

Before, ALL CRAB GRASS AND CLOVER



After aerating, and spreading seed


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Trobin1991 said:


> What would y'all recommend? Drive XLR8? Will the be to hard on the new seed?


The AI in Drive is Quinclorac. Quinclorac (often paired with MSO) will definitely address the crabgrass if that is what is coming up. I believe that you will need to wait at least 7 days post germination before you use it. That puts you in a tough spot, because you will likely have seedlings sprouting at different rates. Alternatively, you could pull what crabgrass you are seeing, but again, I wouldn't recommend walking on seedlings that have just germinated. Either way, I think you will need to give it some more time before addressing the crabgrass.
Many of us use tenacity at seed down to help prevent crabgrass during renovations.

Most importantly, I would not stress at all about different germination rates in sunny vs shady areas. It is a game of patience and persistence (with watering) at this point. In a situation such as yours, you might consider increasing the frequency and/or duration of watering in the sunny areas; but you have already done that, so you are ahead of the game, IMO.


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## Mario6099 (Apr 11, 2018)

If I'm not wrong I think you can spray tenacity and it won't interrupt tall fescue seed germination . Let me know how it goes


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## Khy (Jul 27, 2018)

Do not spray Tenacity on young seedlings, if you're going to spray Tenacity it has to be before any germination has begun or after your 2nd mow or 30 days whichever is longer.

Quinclorac/DriveXLR you can apply before seeding, at seeding or 7 days post-germination and at no stage will it harm your new turf grass w/ TTTF.

If there's any KBG or PRG in your seed mix though, hold off for 28 days post-germination.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

Thanks for the reply guys! What I may end up doing is just holding out right now, and let things come in....I already missed the boat on tenacity prior to seeding.....I guess I just assumed that since my lawn sat for 2 weeks and nothing came up I was good, but forgot account for what would happen after aeration.....Learning process right??? :roll:

I may do Quinclorac in a couple weeks after everything has germinated, then reseed the areas that are still bare, cause if it has not germinated after 3 weeks...its probably not gonna come up there. Right?

Thanks so much, Ill keep everybody posted.

Also, just so I know I am correct.....when the grass hits 3-3.5", I should cut down to 2-2.5" for my first cut? (gotta sharpen my blades)....Why not wait till it gets to 4-5", then cut down to 3"? My ideal HOC is 4.5-5" in the summer, but around 3.5-4" for fall.


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## ForsheeMS (May 21, 2018)

Just leave the crabgrass alone. Once you get a couple good frosts on it it will die. Trying to kill it with young grass is asking for trouble IMO. Your biggest crabgrass concern should be getting a good pre emergent down early spring before it germinates. Prodiamine is what I would recommend. This will also prevent the dallisgrass from germinating as well. I can guarantee there are still viable crabgrass and dallisgrass seeds on the ground just waiting for next year.

I would wait to reseed any bare/thin spots until after the first mow. Remember, even the thicker spots will appear to be sort of thin for a while but will get thicker as you mow and it tillers out. It will even thicken up a lot more after spring green up. Don't get in too big of a hurry, you have plenty of time to get more seed down.

I usually wait until it hits 3.5" to 4" for the first cut and trim it back to about 3". New TTTF grows a lot faster than you might think. Watch the weather closely and if there is a lot of rain coming when it's getting close to the first cut it would be best to mow a little early. You don't want the new grass to get too tall, especially if it's wet as it could flop over and once it does it's a done deal. Learned that lesson the hard way.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

ForsheeMS said:


> Just leave the crabgrass alone. Once you get a couple good frosts on it it will die. Trying to kill it with young grass is asking for trouble IMO. Your biggest crabgrass concern should be getting a good pre emergent down early spring before it germinates. Prodiamine is what I would recommend. This will also prevent the dallisgrass from germinating as well. I can guarantee there are still viable crabgrass and dallisgrass seeds on the ground just waiting for next year.
> 
> I would wait to reseed any bare/thin spots until after the first mow. Remember, even the thicker spots will appear to be sort of thin for a while but will get thicker as you mow and it tillers out. It will even thicken up a lot more after spring green up. Don't get in too big of a hurry, you have plenty of time to get more seed down.
> 
> I usually wait until it hits 3.5" to 4" for the first cut and trim it back to about 3". New TTTF grows a lot faster than you might think. Watch the weather closely and if there is a lot of rain coming when it's getting close to the first cut it would be best to mow a little early. You don't want the new grass to get too tall, especially if it's wet as it could flop over and once it does it's a done deal. Learned that lesson the hard way.


This is great information! Thanks for your opinion. Never knew about the flop over issue. I have been reading up on Pre-E, and am planning to do prodiamine, even bought a soil thermometer to ensure I get it down at the 50-55 degree mark.


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## ForsheeMS (May 21, 2018)

Trobin1991 said:


> This is great information! Thanks for your opinion. Never knew about the flop over issue. I have been reading up on Pre-E, and am planning to do prodiamine, even bought a soil thermometer to ensure I get it down at the 50-55 degree mark.


The good thing about prodiamine is you can put it down a little early if needed. The amount you put down determines how long the protection lasts. I usually do the first app towards the end of February to the first of March. Then a second app mid to late May that will get me through August just in time for overseeding in September.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

ForsheeMS said:


> Trobin1991 said:
> 
> 
> > This is great information! Thanks for your opinion. Never knew about the flop over issue. I have been reading up on Pre-E, and am planning to do prodiamine, even bought a soil thermometer to ensure I get it down at the 50-55 degree mark.
> ...


 :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: So you cant put to out much, just keep it out enough to give yourself a good barrier! Got it. Does it matter if the prodiamine is liquid or granular? Thinking about getting the back back batttery sprayer and GCI nozzle to cut down on my application time.


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## ForsheeMS (May 21, 2018)

Trobin1991 said:


> :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: So you cant put to out much, just keep it out enough to give yourself a good barrier! Got it. Does it matter if the prodiamine is liquid or granular? Thinking about getting the back back batttery sprayer and GCI nozzle to cut down on my application time.


Yes, you can put too much out. Read the label carefully. It tells you how much product to put down depending on how long you want it to last. Read the label several times and if you aren't 100% positive on rates let us know and we'll help you out.

Prodiamine WDG65 is a water dispersable granular formula so you mix it well in water and apply. You can buy a 5lbs jug from domyown.com for about $65 and it will last you years.


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## probasestealer (Apr 19, 2018)

ForsheeMS said:


> Just leave the crabgrass alone. Once you get a couple good frosts on it it will die. Trying to kill it with young grass is asking for trouble IMO. Your biggest crabgrass concern should be getting a good pre emergent down early spring before it germinates. Prodiamine is what I would recommend. This will also prevent the dallisgrass from germinating as well. I can guarantee there are still viable crabgrass and dallisgrass seeds on the ground just waiting for next year.
> 
> I would wait to reseed any bare/thin spots until after the first mow. Remember, even the thicker spots will appear to be sort of thin for a while but will get thicker as you mow and it tillers out. It will even thicken up a lot more after spring green up. Don't get in too big of a hurry, you have plenty of time to get more seed down.
> 
> I usually wait until it hits 3.5" to 4" for the first cut and trim it back to about 3". New TTTF grows a lot faster than you might think. Watch the weather closely and if there is a lot of rain coming when it's getting close to the first cut it would be best to mow a little early. You don't want the new grass to get too tall, especially if it's wet as it could flop over and once it does it's a done deal. Learned that lesson the hard way.


I was going to type a response, this is it. 
If it's really obnoxious I would consider Tenacity at 37ish days post seed down, but the crabgrass will start looking sad soon anyway, it likes hot temps and full sun (it's getting cooler and daylight hours are decreasing)


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

A couple of updated pics from this morning. This is 8 days after spreading everything.

I think I am just gonna let the crab grass roll for now....we are due for a frost in a few weeks, so I don't think it will be that big of a deal.....After my first cut, would you guys do a round of Milo on a lower setting, or Urea? 20,000 sqft, so I think it would be 20lbs into the spreader and throw it out at the lowest setting. Thanks for everything, this site has been awesome for a newbie taking on this project. I am really surprised how much I am getting into this lawn care thing.


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## ForsheeMS (May 21, 2018)

It's really up to you. You could actually do both urea and milo if you want. The milo will take at least a week to kick in, maybe two and the urea will be a day or two. Still plenty of growing time for the grass to use up the milo plus it will give you a little more color.

What urea will you be using? The stuff I get from Southern States is 34-0-0 which I would go with about 18lbs. If you're using 46-0-0 drop back to about 12lbs. I like to go a little lighter on the first app or two.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

ForsheeMS said:


> What urea will you be using? The stuff I get from Southern States is 34-0-0 which I would go with about 18lbs. If you're using 46-0-0 drop back to about 12lbs. I like to go a little lighter on the first app or two.


I think I will be better off with the 34-0-0, I am still a newbie and don't want to put down to much to where I burn or hurt the lawn. I did put down less starter fert, 18-24-12 8 days ago, so this should last a little while before I do another application correct?


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## ForsheeMS (May 21, 2018)

Don't be too scared of urea. It's really pretty safe this time of year unless you get crazy and throw down way too much. If you do 34-0-0 and put down 18 pounds that's only .31lbs of nitrogen per 1k and a very safe amount even for new grass. If you use 46-0-0 and put down 12lbs that's only .28lbs of nitrogen per 1k. To do any damage to the grass you would have to screw that up really bad! The only real issue to be aware of since you are here in NC is to keep an eye on the weather forecast. As long as they aren't calling for temps in the 90's a few days after the urea app you'll be fine.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

ForsheeMS said:


> As long as they aren't calling for temps in the 90's a few days after the urea app you'll be fine.


What do the high temperatures do? My guess would be cause chemical burns to the lawn?


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

Is there anything imparticular you guys do about the mushrooms? I am starting to see them everywhere, which I think is a good sign that the soil is staying nice and moist, but don't wanna do to many chemicals to my baby grass which is really starting to come in nicely!


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Mushrooms are harmless. They will get mowed.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

g-man said:


> Mushrooms are harmless. They will get mowed.


Good point.

I am starting to think I messed up by not getting down any tenacity. Starting to see a lot of broadleaf clover again......Would y'all hit it with 2,4D? Triple Herbicide, or just let it ride till spring?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Once your overseed matures, then treat it since your weeds might not go dormant in NC.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

g-man said:


> Once your overseed matures, then treat it since your weeds might not go dormant in NC.


Thanks G-man!

At what point is it safe to say that if there are still bare spots, they are gonna stay bare and nothing is going to germinate? Gonna do another round of seed/milo probably middle of October after 1-2 cuts. I probably have 3-5 days before I think I am starting to knock on the door of my first cut.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Two weeks from seed down is when I evaluate.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

When y'all do your first cut on an reno, do you take the stripper off the mower? Will leaving it on hurt the baby grass at all? Gonna sharpen my blades today.....MAYBE cut friday or saturday. I have some areas still at 1.5"-2", others creeping up to 4".Then get down some milo, and put more seed down in all my bare spots. Wednesday is gonna be 2 weeks from seed down. Ill post pics then!


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

Here are some pics at the 2 week date....still some bare spots :roll: :roll: :roll: Ohhh, and got a call from the county that my water bill is up to 400.00 :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:


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## probasestealer (Apr 19, 2018)

@Trobin1991 time for some cooler weather. I never went above $250 for 2 months last year during my reno.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

@probasestealer Yeah, looking at the weather it looks like we are gonna in the mid 90s for another 5 days, then its going to start raining and getting cool......Gotta love unpredictable NC


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## j4c11 (Apr 30, 2017)

Trobin1991 said:


> Good point.
> 
> I am starting to think I messed up by not getting down any tenacity. Starting to see a lot of broadleaf clover again......Would y'all hit it with 2,4D? Triple Herbicide, or just let it ride till spring?


+1. Don't let clover get out of hand, it will grow through winter and take over large areas.. Hit it with 3-way after the second mow.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

Will be doing my first mow tomorrow! Unfortunately, I don't have a baging mower....My options are borrowing my neighbors 20in push mower @ 3' (It will not adjust), vs my 42in zero turn at 3-3.5', and I really don't think I should get out the big mower on this new baby grass.....Thoughts?????

Also, Would y'all throw down seed/milo FIRST or wait till after I mow???? I can't decided what would be best since I have no bagging option.

I went ahead and decided to scale back my watering to 30min the the AM at all zones....may increase to 45 min, will just need to keep an eye on my soil over the next few days. Its getting to how to water in the middle of the day, and I am starting to worry about fungus at night.

Front...Still a few thin spots on the ditch.


Thinest spot at about 2.5inch


Thickest spots at like 4-4.5


Back Yard


Thanks for everybody help! This is super addicting.


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## probasestealer (Apr 19, 2018)

I would borrow your neighbors. The ground is damp and turning your large mower is going to tear up the baby grass.

I would do any seeding after you mow. That's just my preference. I've always been concerned about about "sucking" up a few seeds and the mower damaging them. But it may not matter.

FYI I rarely bag, not even on my prior renos, so I wouldn't sweat it. You might want to get the blower out on any areas that look matted, but that's not a problem I've encountered. Obviously seed after blowing.

We all have different opinions, but that's mine.


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## probasestealer (Apr 19, 2018)

@Trobin1991

sorry I was having trouble editing the above post and wanted to tag you.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

@probasestealer Thanks for the input!!! I a gonna rain delay my sprinklers in the morning so things are not to wet, and nothing clumps up! Glad to hear people still have success without bagging.


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## quattljl (Aug 8, 2018)

It's coming in nicely! I'm a few days behind you with my reno (seeded 9/24). My first mow will likely be Monday. I also have a 42" rider (not a zero turn) that I plan to keep off the grass for a while. When is it usually advisable to go back to using the rider? I do at least have a 3-in-1 push mower I can use.

As for mowing, everyone recommends to mulch your clippings rather than side discharge or bagging them. It helps return nutrients to the soil. The only time I would bag is later in the fall when there are lots of leaves to pick up.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

Did my first mow today @ 3"!!!! Gonna leave my final HOC around 3.75-4". I also cultivated and threw some seed down in all my bare spots. Pretty happy with the results so far, BUT my neighbor cam over and told me he has a bad grub issue....Guess I'm off to the store tomorrow for some Dylox! Does percentage matter?


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

Put down Dylox last night, bags said 5k soft per bag...., and I have 21k, so I put down 4 bags....This morning out moving the sprinkler around and I couldn't be happier!!!!



Would you guys put down another application at some point? or am I good for the year now?

Only reason I put this down was because my neighbor told me that he had a bad grub issue, and I remember the beetles being really bad this summer. Looks like I was right.


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## ken-n-nancy (Jul 25, 2017)

Congrats on determining the cause of the problem and fixing it! The dylox you applied should eliminate your problem for the remainder of 2018. However, to get ahead of the cycle, you should use a preventative product next spring. My personal recommendation would be a product using chlorantraniliprole (e.g. Scotts GrubEx2) in mid-April. I like chlorantraniliprole as it is gentler on honeybees and earthworms, and has a long residual. The only downside is that it needs to be applied a little earlier in the year than the former (say a decade ago) primary recommendation for grub prevention, imidacloprid.

However, don't just take my word for it, read the following article that is my "go-to" article for grub control. It is updated every year with new information. https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/how_to_choose_and_when_to_apply_grub_control_products_for_your_lawn


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

:thumbup: apply preventive for the next year's.

Dylox will continue to kill for the next few days. No need to apply more. It is organic matter going into the soil.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

@ken-n-nancy & @g-man

Thanks for the input. It is greatly appreciated! Ill post pics in a another week or so after my 2nd mow with the striper (Gonna avoid the bare areas though)


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

So, I did my first cut last week at 3 inches and was planning on leaving it at 3.75-4'....With all the rain from hurricane matthew I went out this morning and noticed it is starting to lay over in LOTS of spots...am I doomed? Or just get out the mower with high lift blades as soon as it dries out?


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

Trobin1991 said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Just wanted to show everybody where I am at, and a couple questions...I know I will have more along the way. I was posting theses in a other thread, but didn't want to hijack that thread anymore, so I started my own. Located in Charlotte, NC FYI
> 
> ...


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## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

Trobin1991 said:


> So, I did my first cut last week at 3 inches and was planning on leaving it at 3.75-4'....With all the rain from hurricane matthew I went out this morning and noticed it is starting to lay over in LOTS of spots...am I doomed? Or just get out the mower with high lift blades as soon as it dries out?


I would mow it at 2" and keep it there for the winter. The 4" length is good for the middle of summer when it is hot and dry. Now, with the grass being new, keep it lower and also, shorter grass gets better air flow so less chance of fungus and matting of the grass. Use high lift blades and bag if you can. Otherwise, maybe mow it twice on side discharge in 2 directions to help cut up the clippings a bit more. Mow as soon as you can.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

Okay, ill drop the deck a little! Hopefully some early morning sun will allow me to mow tomorrow..doubt it, but one can be hopefully. Saturday morning probably, Sunday at the latest.


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## Methodical (May 3, 2018)

OP, here's a fertilizer rate calculator - save your brain and use this to determine the amount and rate of fertilizer to use.

https://turf.purdue.edu/fertilizerCalculator/index.html


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

Okay guys, need some help....Where did I mess up, and what should I do? Things came in great. I mowed at 3inch with push mower....then waited.......then I did not get a chance to mow before hurricane Matthew (I think this is where I got screwed. Grass was about 3.5 by then, and flopped over after all the rain, and I did everything I could to get it back up. All these areas are now brown and dieing out.....Maybe I put down to much seed cause this is really just in all the areas it came in really thick......I also know I have some sort of a fungus issue when all this happened...Here is the issue...I AM TAPPED OUT ON $$$$ for this project. Have already spent double what I Budgeted....What should I do??? I am currently mowing at 3", and think I need to raise to final HOC for the year of 3.5 with my next cut...which will be my 4th one...I then play on doing some 3 way herbicide for all the weeds I now have....Should I.....

A) Wait till spring and create, reseed again, then get down PreE??? I have DIY irrigation, so could keep it wet.

B)Aerate again NOW, and put down some of the last seed I have?

C) Break up the soil in the messed up areas and hand spread seed?

D) Somehow come up with some more $$ to get down a fungicide???? Would this bring back the brown areas or are those areas long gone????

From far away it looks good...when you get up close you can tell all the dead areas.

Located in NC...just started getting 40-50 degree days in the AM...who knows, could be 70-80 degrees tomorrow..could snow????


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## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

@Trobin1991 I think it was just too long for new grass especially since new grass tends to have thinner blades thus less stability to stay vertical. I would mow it lower. 2" or 2.5" at most. This will reduce the chance of fungus since the grass will have more airflow across the soil surface. The grass will stand upright as well being cut shorter. Save the long lengths for the middle of summer if it is dry and you aren't irrigating. You can cut fescue down to 1" if you really want. It doesn't have to be long.

For now, mow it on side discharge at 2" or 2.5" if your lawn is a bit bumpier (don't want to accidentally scalp it in a dip) and if the clippings are really long, go over it once more at a different direction, maybe 90 degrees. Spread some grass seed in the sparse areas and ride over it with your mower so the tires push them into the dirt. I wouldn't be too concerned about trying to fill those areas since its getting colder now. With fescue, it is a marathon. Seed every fall until you have the density you are happy with. It is hard to have a perfect lawn with fescue and rye since they don't spread so these lawns really rely on success with seeding. You may be able to salvage some of the grass you have left by mowing it shorter. Leave it at 2" all winter.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

@Suburban Jungle Life Thanks for the information man! I will leave it at the 2.5-3" mark cause my lawn is EXTREMELY un even despite my efforts and I do scalp in spots. Fescue is a marathon, great example! I know I need to do PreE in the spring....would you try to reseed around this time as well to fill it in or just wait till next fall???

Trying to decide what I wanna do about the fungus issue...Strobe is EXPENSIVE. Would the brown areas come back to life or are they long gone?


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

From afar it looks good though!


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## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

@Trobin1991 Yowza! Nice stripes!! If you have extra seed, you can spread it now if you want. It might be a crap shoot depending on how cold it gets soon. If the cold weather holds off for a while, you might have decent success. Seed if you have extra and can afford for it to die off if it doesn't work. As for a spring seeding, they usually don't have great success surviving the summer since they didn't have fall through spring to grow a stronger root system. If you can keep it well watered all summer long, then there is a much better chance. Of course, that means you probably will have higher chances of fungus in the summer since you will be keeping it more moist. If you don't want to use a fungicide program, watering infrequently would be the best choice but of course, that's not great for new grass from a spring seeding.

Personally, if you have the seed and can afford to buy more next year, you aren't saving it, then I would seed now. I wouldn't bother with a spring seeding. Manage weeds in the spring and get what you have to tiller. Seed every fall to thicken it up. Find some way to get the lawn a little more level so you can cut it to 2" if you want at some point. You can sand or use screened and dry top soil in the spring to level some of the low spots. I would figure out a way to have some type of fungicide on hand for next summer in case it is a wet one.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

@Suburban Jungle Life I like the idea! I don't have much seed left, and might as well get it out now and see what will happen. Come Feb/March I am gonna get more supplies...PreM, Fungicide, Fert and some other goodies. I am just tapped on on money this fall. I redid all the landscaping around my house as well, so thats were a lot of $$ went. Ill try my best to pull up the diseased areas by hand, and weasel in some seed by hand......I really appreciate all the input. Wish I could get down some propriocon/azoxystrobin now, but its just to pricey for me right now. HOPEFULLY it won't continue to spread and kill off my lawn.... I am learning so much by reading, and posting. The real question is...why did I start caring about this overnight??? lol


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## Jconnelly6b (Mar 4, 2018)

Mow frequently and I think that will fill in nicely, most of those brown spots will disappear in 2 weeks.

I would still throw down what seed you have left.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

The other thing I just realized is that all my fungus issues, and when stuff started struggling was when I did a LIGHT application of milorganite.....Would that have anything to do with it as well?


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## Avalawn T (Sep 11, 2018)

I would find a way to get some fungicide down. I had the same experience this year and it's not going to just go away. Half my yard has been reseeded. I'm on top of it now but what a battle. Wish you the best of luck, this year was a beast.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

If I had my way, I would get down strobe/propriocon but Its expensive. Any other recommendations that won't be so expensive?


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## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

Trobin1991 said:


> If I had my way, I would get down strobe/propriocon but Its expensive. Any other recommendations that won't be so expensive?


Check out the fungicide guide link below and see the cost comparisons. Also, buy bigger sizes for lower cost/M.

Edit: Propiconazole from DYM
32oz bottle: $1.47/M so 20M is $30
2.5gal bottle: $0.59/M so 20M is $11.75


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## Avalawn T (Sep 11, 2018)

Trust me I know it costs some money but at this point you have to protect your investment. You already spent a lot of time and effort plus the cash. I have been in the same boat this year. I would hate to see all your hard work be undone.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

@Avalawn T I am literally loosing sleep over this....I never planned on the fungus issues, and honestly this is just my own ignorance.....I didn't know enough. This yard thing is a big learn as your go.....I wish I had planned on doing some type of fungicide, but with my budget being 2k, and I am now @ 4k total into my landscaping reno....I have nothing left to spend. My only hope is that I can back off on the watering and let things dry out a little and hope they fill in.....


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## probasestealer (Apr 19, 2018)

I'm in Winston. My home Depot has Black Flag prop for $2.50 a bottle (hose end). See link, check brickseek

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Black-Flag-Extreme-32-oz-Ready-to-Spray-Lawn-Insect-Killer-Plus-Fungus-Control-HG-11111/300339839


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## Avalawn T (Sep 11, 2018)

I hear ya, first time reno for me too. I went through the exact same thing. Good luck brother hopefully the cool weather helps. I would think so but no one seems to know if it does.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

Avalawn T said:


> I hear ya, first time reno for me too. I went through the exact same thing. Good luck brother hopefully the cool weather helps. I would think so but no one seems to know if it does.


Ill keep you posted man! I just had so much to do with pulling trees, grading land, grinding stumps which chewed up a lot of my budget. Hopefully I will get to keep most of it....will get my PreM down this spring, get my dirt right over the next year, and come at it again next year!


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## Avalawn T (Sep 11, 2018)

Man you did have a lot to do. You have a great attitude I'm sure you will be just fine. What you have going does look great also.


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## nclawnguy (Jun 27, 2017)

First, take a deep breath. From what I see, you left new grass too high, it flopped over with heavy rain and blades browned out...it happens. You have time still in Charlotte to get down some seed in dead spots. The good news is your lawn, overall looks good. Not every reno goes 100% to plan.


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## Trobin1991 (Aug 17, 2018)

@nclawnguy Thanks man! I have learned a TONS throughout this process, and I deff think my initial mistake was just leaving it to high. Lesson learned!!! Ill get my dirt right, and hit it hard again next year with new seed. I think putting seed down in the spring will be a waste of money.


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## nclawnguy (Jun 27, 2017)

@Trobin1991 
Spring seeding cool season lawns in Charlotte is never a good idea. Gets too hot and you want to put down a good pre-m barrier so you don't get killed by crabgrass. Anytime after Sept 1st will work for seeding.

Honestly, you still have time now to fix some spots.


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