# Hunter solenoid seems to be clogged



## hiccups25 (8 mo ago)

I need help with a hunter solenoid that seems to get clogged over time. It is a 60-6800 type. Over time it seems to get clogged and starts buzzing until it engages until it just buzzes and won't engage at all. At this point, if I remove the solenoid and turn the zone on it buzzes until it fires.... it's almost like water is getting in the plunger (by this I mean in the body of the solenoid, not the valve) and the pressure is too much for the solenoid to engage until I remove it and shake the water out of the solenoid.... then it works fine for 7 or 8 cycles until the problem starts again and I have to remove and get the water out. Has anyone else seen this? This is the second solenoid I've put in with the exact same problem as the first. Very frustrating. Is it a design flaw? Are there any alternative manufacturers that make a solenoid that can replace this one? Is there a way I can get the rubber at the end of the solenoid to seal so no water gets in? Should water be coming into the hole the solenoid screws into?


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## jduncan (Jul 22, 2017)

Water should come out of the solenoid area when activated. Power on and the plunger retracts and lets water out. Same as turning the manual screw,,, it lets water out and turns the valve on. Question: is it the solenoid buzzing or the diaphragm in the valve body? I've seen those Hunter valves buzz in the valve itself,,, usually caused by low pressure to that valve or low flow thru the valve (not enough gpm)

https://youtu.be/Zijg05h-Lzw


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## hiccups25 (8 mo ago)

No, the solenoid itself is buzzing. I've thought maybe it's not getting enough power but it doesn't make sense that it works until after a handful of cycles and then seems to jam up. It's like the water is getting inside the plunger and it can't retract inside the solenoid body due to hydraulic pressure.


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## jduncan (Jul 22, 2017)

well sense you've already changed out the solenoid I'd check the power next,,, make sure you've got 24 vac(min) and ohm out that zone looking for something between 20 and 50 ohms. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jWIT9RIdpg4

If you pass the electrical,,, then I'd probably change out the whole valve. If swapping out the valve is difficult maybe replace just the diaphragm.

https://www.amazon.com/Hunter-Industries-RTL1201332100-Irrigation-Replacement/dp/B00NO52CVI/ref=sr_1_1?crid=Z2VRU4TOIPFS&keywords=Hunter+Industries+RTL1201332100+Hunter+PGV+Diaphragm+Irrigation+Valve+Replacement&qid=1652403823&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=hunter+industries+rtl1201332100+hunter+pgv+diaphragm+irrigation+valve+replacement%2Clawngarden%2C151&sr=1-1


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## Hawkeye_311 (Mar 8, 2021)

jduncan said:


> well sense you've already changed out the solenoid I'd check the power next,,, make sure you've got 24 vac(min) and ohm out that zone looking for something between 20 and 50 ohms.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have a rainbird sprinkler valve where the diaphragm is being sucked or swallowed back into the pipe. Never seen that before and can't even pull it out with pliers. I would like to just replace the diaphragm instead of the whole valve. Any ideas?


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## jduncan (Jul 22, 2017)

I'd try cutting a a small circle with a pocket knife right where the spring goes,,, being careful of not damaging any of the hard plastic of the valve body itself.. The diaphragm needs to seal on those surfaces. Then use needle nose pliers and see if you can pull the old out. If it's sucked way in then start at the edge by the screws and work from there. I've never seen one sucked in before like you're describing. I'd like to see a pic if you have time.

https://www.google.com/search?q=rainbird+sprinkler+valve+where+the+diaphragm&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_vSCBYp3dGqGA0PEPtvGNsA431


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## Hawkeye_311 (Mar 8, 2021)

jduncan said:


> I'd try cutting a a small circle with a pocket knife right where the spring goes,,, being careful of not damaging any of the hard plastic of the valve body itself.. The diaphragm needs to seal on those surfaces. Then use needle nose pliers and see if you can pull the old out. If it's sucked way in then start at the edge by the screws and work from there. I've never seen one sucked in before like you're describing. I'd like to see a pic if you have time.
> 
> It's almost like the diaphragm and the valve body are connected as one piece. FYI - This the master valve to the system.
> 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=rainbird+sprinkler+valve+where+the+diaphragm&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#kpvalbx=_vSCBYp3dGqGA0PEPtvGNsA431


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## jduncan (Jul 22, 2017)

Strange for sure. I'd run my pocket knife under the rubber at all screw hole "ears" first, then slowly work deeper toward the sealing edge. Man, that sucker almost looks glued. No harm in getting a bit more aggressive in removal,,, just try not to mar up the sealing surfaces too much.


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## Hawkeye_311 (Mar 8, 2021)

jduncan said:


> Strange for sure. I'd run my pocket knife under the rubber at all screw hole "ears" first, then slowly work deeper toward the sealing edge. Man, that sucker almost looks glued. No harm in getting a bit more aggressive in removal,,, just try not to mar up the sealing surfaces too much.


Thanks for the input. It's almost like the diaphragm and valve body are one piece. I have replaced 2 others with zero issues. I started looking around with my heads wouldn't pop on my first run of the season. I suspected a leak until I saw this.


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## jduncan (Jul 22, 2017)

since it's the main,,, give it a blast of water from the backside w/ the cap off?


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## Hawkeye_311 (Mar 8, 2021)

jduncan said:


> since it's the main,,, give it a blast of water from the backside w/ the cap off?


She's off. Had to get the vice grips out and anchor my foot against the side of the house to pull it.


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## jduncan (Jul 22, 2017)

Nice!


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