# re-seeding somewhat failed overseed. more fert?



## bentz69 (Jun 12, 2018)

I attempted to overseed on 8/31 with 100% GCI tttf but many areas did not germinate and/or are still extremely thin. I also spread Scott's starter fert w/meso and diseaseex.

This weekend will be 3 weeks post seeding. I'm cutting low and reseeding again with GCI 85% tttf/15% *** (they were sold out of 100% tttf). I'm spreading a thin layer of screened top soil in the failed areas.

Can I apply more scotts start fertilizer w/meso since I'm adding new soil? I thought I read somewhere that additional mesotrione would hurt newly grown grass? If so, what about starter fert without the meso?


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## halby (Jun 8, 2020)

What do you contribute to your failed germination? Do you think it was user error? Asking because im puzzled why you would by seed from the same company if you had a failed overseed with it previously. But to answer your question, do not apply anymore tenacity or mesotrione until 30 days after your initial germination.


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## jimmythegreek (Aug 7, 2020)

Just use regular starter fertilizer but wait a week to do so. Adding it at seed down is gonna make the existing grass grow faster shadowing your seedlings amd yiu wont be able to cut for a while after seeding.


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## Dieseldan9 (Aug 18, 2020)

jimmythegreek said:


> Just use regular starter fertilizer but wait a week to do so. Adding it at seed down is gonna make the existing grass grow faster shadowing your seedlings amd yiu wont be able to cut for a while after seeding.


I agree I am doing the samething


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## 7824 (Oct 23, 2019)

Use quality compost (not mushroom soil) instead of topsoil. It's the magic sauce.


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## samzone7a (Jul 14, 2020)

Maybe use milo instead of starter fert.

Have you done any soil tests ?


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## bentz69 (Jun 12, 2018)

halby said:


> What do you contribute to your failed germination? Do you think it was user error? Asking because im puzzled why you would by seed from the same company if you had a failed overseed with it previously. But to answer your question, do not apply anymore tenacity or mesotrione until 30 days after your initial germination.


Heres my post about the issue (https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=22998&p=327954#p327954 )

But to sum up, I sprayed prodiamine at a 7 month rate in April and I'm not sure if I was able to break down the barrier enough even though I dethatched twice and core aerated *heavily*.

On the other hand, there were almost 2 straight days of hard rain that dropped almost 2.5" about 8 days post seeding so some seed may have washed away.

I figure if the prodiamine is still active in the soil then I am hoping some new fresh soil will get the seeds going....
OR
If not the prodiamine and the seeds were washed away, then new seeds are needed regardless.



learningeveryday said:


> Use quality compost (not mushroom soil) instead of topsoil. It's the magic sauce.


Hmmmm, when I called the local nursery they had compost as an option or a mix. In my case, I'm just looking to add "something" over the existing soil at about 1/8" - 1/4" so there is something loose to add new seeds to. I dont want to run a rake over the lawn because of the already germinating new grass from 2 weeks ago.

Perhaps a compost/soil mix? Based on spreading soil in the past, it took a bit over 10 yards to cover 8000sqft. I figure now I would need only 3 yards to go after the bare/thin areas.



samzone7a said:


> Maybe use milo instead of starter fert.
> 
> Have you done any soil tests ?


Another option and easily available. But isnt milo branded as a "slow" release and a starter is beneficial to new seeds to give them a boost?

I have not done a soil test. It is on the to do list


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## 7824 (Oct 23, 2019)

You're making it much harder than it needs to be.

Like I said, use straight compost. Do not use a mix and do not use topsoil. 2 yards of DRY compost will cover 10k sqft with a peat/compost spreader. They are very efficient.

Do not use Milo, it's 40%+ quick release.


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## SOLARSUPLEX (Aug 4, 2020)

learningeveryday said:


> You're making it much harder than it needs to be.
> 
> Like I said, use straight compost. Do not use a mix and do not use topsoil. 2 yards of DRY compost will cover 10k sqft with a peat/compost spreader. They are very efficient.
> 
> Do not use Milo, it's 40%+ quick release.


Hey, im curious why you'd suggest against using Milo? Are you saying to not use it at seed down because the germination will occur after the milo has been 'used'. Wouldnt applying it after germination be smart considering the new grass needs N to continue its growth? Trying to learn as i recently did a renovation and waiting for germination to occur.


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## Harts (May 14, 2018)

I would avoid any and all nitrogen at seed down, whether from milo or another source. 1) the new seeds have the nutrients they need for the first few weeks and 2) the N will force your existing grass to grow and out compete the new seedlings.


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## Dieseldan9 (Aug 18, 2020)

I agree I also did not fert on my overseed

Going to wait for some growth first


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## bentz69 (Jun 12, 2018)

I completed the first cut today. New tttf was over 3" and existing grass was closer to 5". I cut to 2.5" and spread some thin topsoil over the whole lawn. 3 yards covered 8k sqft. I used a large push broom to work the topsoil through the existing grass and it worked pretty good. I spread GCI tttf/kbg at 3lb/1k sqft over the whole lawn with more attention to the bare/thin areas.

Daytime temps are in the mid 70s and night temps are in the low 50s and even touching high 40s. Question about watering with this second attempt at seeding. Considering the drop in temps I assume I can cut back on the 5-6 short watering times per day that were needed in early September to maybe 3? 7am/noon/3pm @ 6 minutes per zone. I have the Rachio set to water for 3 minutes and soak for 18 minutes between zones. For my uneven lawn, this is the best way to prevent puddles and runoff.


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## M32075 (May 9, 2019)

Harts said:


> I would avoid any and all nitrogen at seed down, whether from milo or another source. 1) the new seeds have the nutrients they need for the first few weeks and 2) the N will force your existing grass to grow and out compete the new seedlings.


I agree 💯


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## M32075 (May 9, 2019)

bentz69 said:


> I completed the first cut today. New tttf was over 3" and existing grass was closer to 5". I cut to 2.5" and spread some thin topsoil over the whole lawn. 3 yards covered 8k sqft. I used a large push broom to work the topsoil through the existing grass and it worked pretty good. I spread GCI tttf/kbg at 3lb/1k sqft over the whole lawn with more attention to the bare/thin areas.
> 
> Daytime temps are in the mid 70s and night temps are in the low 50s and even touching high 40s. Question about watering with this second attempt at seeding. Considering the drop in temps I assume I can cut back on the 5-6 short watering times per day that were needed in early September to maybe 3? 7am/noon/3pm @ 6 minutes per zone. I have the Rachio set to water for 3 minutes and soak for 18 minutes between zones. For my uneven lawn, this is the best way to prevent puddles and runoff.


3 quick watering should work. 7 am is a little early. Days are short now and you want your last watering to be 2 hours before sundown so grass blades dry to combat fungus.


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## NotFadeAway77 (Aug 15, 2020)

I'm facing the same issue and had to overseed my entire renovated area (1000 sq/ft) due to subpar germination. I read to water the new grass deeper and less frequent but the main reason for my poor germination, I believe, was due to overwatering. How do you balance short frequent watering for new seeds with deeper watering for the estalished seedlings?


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## outdoorsmen (Jul 23, 2018)

I DID put down some carbon x xsrt starter fert and milo same day as over seed. I scalped the lawn to much due to an unknown flat tire in my mower and it caused alot of damage that I am still trying to fix. But point being ive only mowed twice at 3" since my overseed and fert. Old grass us not growing g like crazy and out growing new grass.


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## M32075 (May 9, 2019)

outdoorsmen said:
 

> I DID put down some carbon x xsrt starter fert and milo same day as over seed. I scalped the lawn to much due to an unknown flat tire in my mower and it caused alot of damage that I am still trying to fix. But point being ive only mowed twice at 3" since my overseed and fert. Old grass us not growing g like crazy and out growing new grass.


if you scalped the existing lawn down to the crown or close it takes awhile for it to recover which is not a bad thing it gives the seed a chance to germinate and fill in a little even with fertilizer put down with seed.


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## Justmatson (Apr 4, 2020)

learningeveryday said:


> Use quality compost (not mushroom soil) instead of topsoil. It's the magic sauce.


100% agree. I had some left over from a veggie garden and threw some along my driveway when I seeded. That section came up faster, thicker, less weeds.


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