# New Trucut winter-ish project



## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Haven't posted here in some time. Last winter I did a rebuild of a Tru-cut C20. If went from this pile







.

To this










This little Tru-cut served me well last season. A huge improvement over my old rotary. And as much as I have enjoyed using it I was always looking for something more. Yesterday I found her.




























This Tru-cut C27 needs a little work. But is in better overall condition than the last one I rebuilt. Last one I ended up putting a Harbor Freight Predator engine on, which at $99 is really an amazing little engine. With the 27 I'm moping to do a rebuild of the original engine. I'll try to post my progress along the way.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

Amazing!!!! I can't wait to see it when you are done. Your first project looks like a brand new mower :thumbup:


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

How did you tackle the painting of the large pieces? Can spray paint?


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

g-man said:


> How did you tackle the painting of the large pieces? Can spray paint?


Used a regular spray gun. I sandblasted all the parts, applied a epoxy primer and a urethane topcoat.


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## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

I love it, can't wait to see how the C27 turns out.


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Doing some tear down work last night. Removed the engine, clutch assembly, chains, height adjustment bar, grass deflector and the reel.




























The bearing holder in the last picture can be a pest. It has to be removed to get the reel out of the frame. Has a grease zerk that needs to be removed first before you can attempt to remove the bearing holder itself. Had to heat things with a torch to get it off but was able to remove it without to much difficulty.

All that is left to remove is the rear axle, bed knife and handle bar assembly. Roll pin in the axle is being stubborn but hope to have that apart this weekend.


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

Very cool project. Looking forward to the updates!


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Completed the disassembly this weekend. That rear axle ended up being a problem. Was not able to remove one of the roll pins and had to end up drilling it out. Once that done was I began trying to remove the rear axle.










Took a good amount of heating before I was able to get that axle to budge. It did end up freeing up enough to get the non drive side hub off. There was a good amount of surface corrosion that had it stuck in place. This is where my lack of patience got me. Once the non drive side was removed I continued trying to force the axle out through the drive side. Hindsight now tells me I should have started on the other side and drove it back through the other direction. I didn't do that however and I ended up getting the axle stuck again, at this point I ended up dragging out the sawzall and cut through it. But it's all apart now and outside of an axle I think all I'll need to replace are the bearings and maybe the bedknife.










Also this weekend I began work on the engine. Its a Honda GX160, aftermarket parts are abundant and cheap for this engine.










I don't know much about small engines so its hard for me to say the overall condition of this one. I do think the crankcase and piston are in good condition though. Plating on the crankcase sleeve looks to be in good shape, didn't get a picture of it.



















The head had what looked like a fair amount of carbon build up on it, but cleaned up decently.










The exhaust valve also had a good amount of build up.










Contemplating whether to try to clean these items up or just replace them. A new head assembly can be had for $35 off ebay. At the moment I'm still thinking I'll just try to get them cleaned up. Ordered a gasket kit and a ring kit, will also probably replace the crank bearings since I have it apart.

All in all a productive weekend. Major lesson learned is be patient and think things through. Had I done so I'd have saved myself having to buy a $50 axle.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

I would re-use as many of the OEM parts as possible. The aftermarket is ok for these engines (not so much for the smaller two-cycle stuff) but I have yet to see an AM part outlast or outperform an OEM part. I would def wire brush that exhaust valve clean and lap both valves back to their seats. It's a nearly dead art in small engine work due to cheap replacement engines but it's a very rewarding "hobby" if you will. Maybe replace the piston rings since you've already removed that assembly and mic the crank journal to check for wear. (Doubtful that this will be a problem) those cylinders are usually cast iron, not plated like a small two-cycle would be and if you can see the original hone marks (cross-hatching) I would leave it alone. If said marks are polished smooth in spots, take a bore gauge and a mic to the cylinder in multiple spots. If everything checks out ok, you can re-hone the cylinder yourself and then reassemble.


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

MasterMech said:


> I would re-use as many of the OEM parts as possible. The aftermarket is ok for these engines (not so much for the smaller two-cycle stuff) but I have yet to see an AM part outlast or outperform an OEM part. I would def wire brush that exhaust valve clean and lap both valves back to their seats. It's a nearly dead art in small engine work due to cheap replacement engines but it's a very rewarding "hobby" if you will. Maybe replace the piston rings since you've already removed that assembly and mic the crank journal to check for wear. (Doubtful that this will be a problem) those cylinders are usually cast iron, not plated like a small two-cycle would be and if you can see the original hone marks (cross-hatching) I would leave it alone. If said marks are polished smooth in spots, take a bore gauge and a mic to the cylinder in multiple spots. If everything checks out ok, you can re-hone the cylinder yourself and then reassemble.


I'm putting new rings on it. The oil ring broke when removing it. I did see the crosshatching you are talking about. Didn't know those were from honing, that's good to know. I may just lightly run a hone on it and call it good.

Thanks for the advice!


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

I took the reel into my local power equipment shop just to have them look at it before I end up putting everything back together. Didn't want to go through all the trouble if there was anything that would prevent them from sharpening the reel. What I was told is that it is just worn out and they might be able to sharpen it one more time but they couldn't promise me anything. So its looking like its going to have to be replaced at a cost of about $400. I still would have likely tried to purchase the mower knowing it needed replacing, but would have offered less than I gave. Oh well, lesson learned. Still will have way less invested compared to a new unit.

I ended up doing a little engine work last night. Carb has been disassembled and cleaned, ready to put back together once my oring kit shows up. Also cleaned off the build up off the valves and lapped them.










Besides expensive lawn mowers I also have an obsession for expensive RC cars. I have to tell my wife its better than being hooked on cocaine.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Llano Estacado said:


> Besides expensive lawn mowers I also have an obsession for expensive RC cars. I have to tell my wife its better than being hooked on cocaine.


That thing looks awesome!


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Since I'm likely going to replace the reel, would it be better to go a 5 blade or 7 blade? My 20" TC has a 7 blade.


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## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

Between 5&7 I would choose 7.

If it's an option, I would use a 10 blade reel.


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

That was the route I was planning on. More blades lends itself better to lower HOC correct?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Look for a blade that gets a frequency of cut (foc) as close to your desired hoc as possible. The foc will depend on the blades and rpm / forward speed of your machine.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

I'm not sure if I've ever seen any FOC specs for a Tru-Cut. The way you feather the clutch to operate the drive wheels, I think it would be variable - unlike a greens mower where the ground drive and reel speed are geared.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Llano Estacado said:


> ...More blades lends itself better to lower HOC correct?


I would say generally yes, particularly on a homeowner reel like a Tru-Cut.

Greens mowers are designed to cut much lower, and have a shorter clip, so an argument can be made that more blades is not always better for those when used on a home lawn.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Like g-man pointed out, the ideal cut is supposed to be when Clip = HOC.

Here is a good explanation (starting on page 11 of that document). :thumbup:


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Ware said:


> Like g-man pointed out, the ideal cut is supposed to be when Clip = HOC.
> 
> Here is a good explanation (starting on page 11 of that document). :thumbup:


That is some nice information. Thanks


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

Ware said:


> I'm not sure if I've ever seen any FOC specs for a Tru-Cut. The way you feather the clutch to operate the drive wheels, I think it would be variable - unlike a greens mower where the ground drive and reel speed are geared.


But for purposes of taking a SWAG at FOC, I would ignore the clutch slippage and just take the reel rpm and use the nominal forward speed.

A triplex or fairway mower has its FOC calibrated and it too is variable when starting or stopping the machine. (Hydro trans) In that particular case it doesn't matter much as the units are typically raised when the reels start and then lowered to the turf but the ground speed can vary when mowing approaches or clean-up passes.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Or call the vendor and ask. If they are selling a 5, 7 and 10 blade, they should have a recommendation of hoc range for each one.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

MasterMech said:


> But for purposes of taking a SWAG at FOC, I would ignore the clutch slippage and just take the reel rpm and use the nominal forward speed.


What you're saying makes sense, but that's not really how a Tru-Cut works. Fully engaging the clutch on the C-27 I had would really take you for a ride if you weren't careful. With the clutch locked in it would run much faster than I could ever mow my lawn. I think that's probably why they started offering the T60345 Speed Reducer Kit as an accessory.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

Ware said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> > But for purposes of taking a SWAG at FOC, I would ignore the clutch slippage and just take the reel rpm and use the nominal forward speed.
> ...


How often must the clutch be replaced/serviced if everyone is out there running behind these things and continuously slipping the clutch? :lol:


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## J_nick (Jan 28, 2017)

I run mine around 80% throttle, but even at full throttle it's not bad just a brisk walking pace


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## 2xjtn (Nov 29, 2017)

Wow, nice work on the C-27 - Cant wait to see that thing all restored!!


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Engine rebuild is done.










Next up... spend a small fortune on parts...


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

Llano Estacado said:


> Engine rebuild is done.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Wow, the engine looks great. What parts are you having to buy???


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Going to replace the reel. That alone is about $400. Will probably put a new bed knife on it as well. Plus bearings, new axle, top and side chain guards, and new chains. Still will be considerably less than a new unit, but having to spend more than I wanted to.


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Oh and front roller.


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

So just a quick update. Have sand blasted and painted some of the parts, still have the frame and a few small parts left to go. Have not yet ordered my parts as my wife has told me I'm exceeding my budget. I hope to get those ordered later this month though.

I did get the engine running, started up on the 2nd pull and ran perfectly. Let it sit a couple of days and couldn't get it to start back up. Finally for some reason I decided to check the oil and gasoline came pouring out of the crankcase. I must have a bad carb float or bad seal in the carb. I guess thats one reason they put a fuel shut off on them things.... :fool:

Not going to look like your normal Trucut. Painting it with a metallic gray. Thought about doing it in low rider colors... but just couldn't make myself.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Llano Estacado said:


> ...Not going to look like your normal Trucut. Painting it with a metallic gray. Thought about doing it in low rider colors... but just couldn't make myself.


Anxious to see this!


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

Ware said:


> Llano Estacado said:
> 
> 
> > ...Not going to look like your normal Trucut. Painting it with a metallic gray. Thought about doing it in low rider colors... but just couldn't make myself.
> ...


+1 can't wait!


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## Adrian82 (Jun 5, 2017)

Llano Estacado said:


> The bearing holder in the last picture can be a pest. It has to be removed to get the reel out of the frame. Has a grease zerk that needs to be removed first before you can attempt to remove the bearing holder itself. Had to heat things with a torch to get it off but was able to remove it without to much difficulty.


Can you provide additional insight into removing the reel? Based on the pic I assumed you removed the sprocket and hex nut prior to removing the chain-side bearing holder. Anything special to remove those parts?

Can you explain which parts were heated up to remove the bearing holder? I removed the chain-side zerks, however, I am stuck at removing the chain-side bearing holder.

Thanks


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

@Adrian82 You shouldn't need anything special to remove the nut or sprocket. Make sure to not lose the key for the sprocket.

If the zerks are out of the chain side bearing holder it should slip out. Either sides bearing should slip out of the bearing holder. So either the right side bearing holder comes off and the reel stays where it is. Or the left side bearing slips out of the holder and the whole reel along with the right side bearing and bearing holder shift to the right.

Does that make sense? I did this about 2 years ago but I'm pretty sure that's the deal.

I'm guessing maybe the heat was used to help coax the bearing out of the holder but I am not sure.


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## Adrian82 (Jun 5, 2017)

SGrabs33 said:


> @Adrian82 You shouldn't need anything special to remove the nut or sprocket. Make sure to not lose the key for the sprocket.
> 
> If the zerks are out of the chain side bearing holder it should slip out. Either sides bearing should slip out of the bearing holder. So either the right side bearing holder comes off and the reel stays where it is. Or the left side bearing slips out of the holder and the whole reel along with the right side bearing and bearing holder shift to the right.
> 
> ...


Can someone post a picture of the key? I purchased the mower, used, a year ago. I am not sure if the previous owner lost the key. My bearings are very snug, so I think some heat is required.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

Adrian82 said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> > @Adrian82 You shouldn't need anything special to remove the nut or sprocket. Make sure to not lose the key for the sprocket.
> ...


It's going to be a square metal key that fits in a slot on the rod that keeps the sprocket from spinning freely on the rod.


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## Adrian82 (Jun 5, 2017)

I am pretty sure the square key is missing. I will order another.


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

@Adrian82 What MQ said. Basically a square piece of metal about the size of a pea that fits in a cutout of both the sprocket and the rod.


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

@Adrian82 If you can grab just the sprocket and turning it makes the reel turn then it's still in there. It will most likely fall out if you were to take the nut and sprocket off. Since you haven't done that I think it's still in there :thumbup:


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## Adrian82 (Jun 5, 2017)

SGrabs33 said:


> @Adrian82 If you can grab just the sprocket and turning it makes the reel turn then it's still in there. It will most likely fall out if you were to take the nut and sprocket off. Since you haven't done that I think it's still in there :thumbup:


Gotcha! I will focus on heating the bearing holder. Honestly, I just need a need new retaining ring on the non-chain side. An old screw broke in half and I cant punch it out.


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## Colonel K0rn (Jul 4, 2017)

Judging by the condition of the sprocket, and the other end of the real, I'm wondering if the key has been sheared off. I've seen that happen in other keyed shafts.


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

@Adrian82 What are you working on exactly? New bearings? New reel?


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## Adrian82 (Jun 5, 2017)

SGrabs33 said:


> @Adrian82 What are you working on exactly? New bearings? New reel?


I need to replace the non-chain side retaining ring. The retaining ring has a broken screw that I cannot get out. Also the retaining ring is slightly warped.


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

@Adrien Ah, I got ya. I figured you were doing a bigger project and then noticed that issue.


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

FWIW, I just replaced my reel, bearings, bearing holders, etc. I went ahead and picked up a new sprocket as well, and the new sprocket doesn't have a key. The sprocket is cut such that the key is part of the sprocket.


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## Adrian82 (Jun 5, 2017)

Spammage said:


> FWIW, I just replaced my reel, bearings, bearing holders, etc. I went ahead and picked up a new sprocket as well, and the new sprocket doesn't have a key. The sprocket is cut such that the key is part of the sprocket.


Did you need an impact wrench to remove the hex bolt? That hex bolt destroyed my 1/2 torque wrench.


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

Adrian82 said:


> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> > FWIW, I just replaced my reel, bearings, bearing holders, etc. I went ahead and picked up a new sprocket as well, and the new sprocket doesn't have a key. The sprocket is cut such that the key is part of the sprocket.
> ...


Scratch that. I'm drunk and just don't remember. I think I used a breaker bar.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

Adrian82 said:


> Spammage said:
> 
> 
> > FWIW, I just replaced my reel, bearings, bearing holders, etc. I went ahead and picked up a new sprocket as well, and the new sprocket doesn't have a key. The sprocket is cut such that the key is part of the sprocket.
> ...


Just FYI, you shouldn't use a torque wrench as a breaker bar as it isn't designed for that task and it could throw the calibration of the torque wrench off too!


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

@Adrian82 Okay, I'm thinking a little more clearly this morning. I used a 24" long 1/2" breaker bar and socket. I used a crow bar to prevent the reel from spinning, because I knew I was replacing it and causing damage to the reel wasn't a concern.

Also, the old sprocket (like the replacement) had the key portion as part of the sprocket and not a separate piece.


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## Adrian82 (Jun 5, 2017)

Mightyquinn said:


> Adrian82 said:
> 
> 
> > Spammage said:
> ...





Spammage said:


> @Adrian82 Okay, I'm thinking a little more clearly this morning. I used a 24" long 1/2" breaker bar and socket. I used a crow bar to prevent the reel from spinning, because I knew I was replacing it and causing damage to the reel wasn't a concern.
> 
> Also, the old sprocket (like the replacement) had the key portion as part of the sprocket and not a separate piece.


I am still learning. I had to google a breaker bar. Thanks for the advice gents.


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## Adrian82 (Jun 5, 2017)

With the breaker bar it took seconds to remove the hex and sprocket. Any advice on heating the bearing holder or other parts to remove the bearing holder from the reel?

Thanks again for all the assistance!


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

nm


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

.


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Ordered parts today. Going to try to get this project back underway.


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Made a little progress on my project this morning. Frame and new reel are ready for paint.

Had to put on my space suit first!









My company is in the process of setting up a powder coating operation so somebody had to test the blast room. 









Blasting using aluminum oxide abrasive with a full recovery and recycling system on it. 









Here are the parts after I finished up. Didn't get everything off the reel because I was trying to be careful not to blast it too much. The aluminum oxide is super aggressive. Too maybe a minute combined to blast the frame and reel. 









Next up I'll put a zinc rich epoxy primer, followed by an intermediate coat of epoxy and then a gray metallic urethane finish coat.

Still have to all the bearing that go in it and the front roller. Hope to be able to use it later in the season.


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

Probably my favorite project on here. Keep the updates coming!


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

Is that an Empire booth? They make good blast equipment!


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

MasterMech said:


> Is that an Empire booth? They make good blast equipment!


 :nod:


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

My original plan was to paint this thing a metallic gray. I've decided to go a different route on color. Stay tuned...


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Spent some time at my little spray booth today. Here is the frame hung and ready to get primed. Has a little flash rust on it, but nothing that should hurt anything once its painted.










I put a zinc rich epoxy primer and let that sit for 45 minutes or so then put a second coat of a white epoxy primer over it. Didn't think to take any pictures of those.... but who wants to see primer?

As I said I was going to paint this a gray metallic color and I just didn't think it was fitting for a reel mower.... so I pimped it out. 





































It is a brighter green than what comes across in the pictures. The paint is a silver metallic base, but I added yellow and green to make this color and that gives the flake a gold look. Think _Low Rider_ green. I'll be mowing reel low in style! :lol:


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

Very very cool @Llano Estacado


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Tru-Cut in tlf green. I love it.


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

HVLP or airless sprayer?


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Binks 95G spray gun. Conventional LVHP spray is the only way I roll. Never been a big HVLP fan and airless would be to uncontrollable for this small and complex a part.


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Greendoc said:


> Tru-Cut in tlf green. I love it.


Thought a few of those TLF stickers would look good on it.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Llano Estacado said:


> Thought a few of those TLF stickers would look good on it.


I'll donate to this cause. Shoot me a PM and let me know what you want and where to send them. :thumbup:


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Little more paint work today. The Honda engine cover and pull start are of course Honda Red. I really didn't want a TruCut Kris Kringle Edition so I decided to paint them to match the frame.



















Chain guards are all now white.










Still have a fair amount of small parts left to paint, as well as to order a reel roller. Also going to start making a list of all the nuts and bolts I'll need. Going to go with all new stainless bolts on this.

The chrome on the handlebars isn't in perfect shape, I'm hoping I can save it with some steel wool. If not its getting blasted and painted.


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

The above post is having technical difficulties. Tried using photobucket since postimages seems to be messed up again.

I'll update it once postimages is working again.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Yeah, photobucket wants you to pay them to share images online.


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Ware said:


> Yeah, photobucket wants you to pay them to share images online.


I guess thats why I quit using them. I've updated my post with postimages links. Guess they'll show up once they get their stuff working again.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

@Llano Estacado I can see them now. :thumbsup:


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Thats strange... all I can see is the word "image". Not a link... just a word.


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Ahh... I use the privacy badger plug in on firefox. That was what was blocking my images.


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## TulsaFan (May 1, 2017)

I can't wait to see this reassembled!!!


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## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Looking fabulous. Much better than the Tru-Cuts I run into with the red paint flaking off exposing rust holes in the sheet metal and all of the relief ground off of the reel.


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Greendoc said:


> Looking fabulous. Much better than the Tru-Cuts I run into with the red paint flaking off exposing rust holes in the sheet metal and all of the relief ground off of the reel.


I bought a new 7 blade reel for this one and was surprised how narrow the blades are when new. The new blades are exactly 1" wide and only 1/2" of that is past the discs the blades are welded to. Doesn't seem to leave much available for relief grinding.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Relief grind should not change the OD of the reel. It only removes material from the thickness of the blade at the tip. One challenge (as explained to me by the JD guy) is that the grind wheel cant get deep enough because of the disk the blades are welded to.


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

g-man said:


> Relief grind should not change the OD of the reel. It only removes material from the thickness of the blade at the tip. One challenge (as explained to me by the JD guy) is that the grind wheel cant get deep enough because of the disk the blades are welded to.


Ok... I was not aware of what a relief grind was Thought it was just the term used when the reel was ground. With a little quick research it seems the purpose of the relief is to extend the life of the reel as the relief cut provides... well relief as the leading edge of the blade passes over the bed knife. Am I on the right path?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Yes, This thread has a ton of info and a graphic/picture showing the differences. https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2079&p=39242&hilit=relief+grind#p39242

In short, less contact area = less wear.


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

The green on the engine cover and pull start looks pretty good I think.


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Finished up painting all my parts this weekend. Need to pick up bearings, chains, nuts and bolts to begin assembly. Getting closer to the finish line each day now.

Another teaser...


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

So, will you mow with it?


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Absolutely. Its been a fun project and I think it will look real nice... but its still a mower and its gonna get used!


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## green is king 01 (Mar 9, 2018)

I was thinking museum


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## bugee_d (Jun 16, 2018)

Could you please tell me how many pins need to be removed and where they are located inorder to remove the axle. I'm in the process of trying to replace the wheels on tru-cut 27.


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## Ral1121 (Mar 19, 2018)

@Llano Estacado

Anymore updates on this project?


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Have not had much time to work on this project the last month or so. I'm very close to starting to reassemble things though.


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## TulsaFan (May 1, 2017)

@Llano Estacado

Looking forward to your next update....


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

TulsaFan said:


> @Llano Estacado
> 
> Looking forward to your next update....


Me too! :lol:


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

Haha. Me three!


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

Man its been a long time... but I'm finally getting this project back on track... for now.

Have started reassembly. Some of this stuff is a pain, but overall going pretty smoothly. 








Rear axle, differential, drive wheel and associated bearings are all in.

The eccentric bearing holders, bearings, and reel are done as well. 









Got the clutch assembly back together last night, that process was pretty straight forward. I did have to get a clutch face rivet put on that had came out during tear down. 









Set the engine on it last night just to see how it would look. 









I should have most of the material needed to finish this thing up. Cautiously optimistic I'll have it completed this weekend.

Really looking forward to being done with this thing and putting it to actual use.


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

Been waiting for an update on this and it almost got buried in my unread posts :shock:

Looks great man! I've thought about doing a similar project.


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## jimbeckel (May 27, 2018)

That thing looks awesome, nice solid work


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## drewwitt (Jun 25, 2018)

I've been checking for updates and am glad to see them! Well done.


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## drewwitt (Jun 25, 2018)

Did you buy a brand new reel and paint it white? Or refurb the old reel and paint it?


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## RayTL (Jun 4, 2018)

Llano Estacado said:


> Man its been a long time... but I'm finally getting this project back on track... for now.
> 
> Have started reassembly. Some of this stuff is a pain, but overall going pretty smoothly.
> 
> ...


Looking good!!


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

drewwitt said:


> Did you buy a brand new reel and paint it white? Or refurb the old reel and paint it?


Bought a new reel, sandblasted and painted it.

Got the handle bars back on last night.









And more importantly some badging. Thanks to @Ware for the decal.


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## drewwitt (Jun 25, 2018)

So hot.


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## TN Hawkeye (May 7, 2018)

Man that looks awesome. When do you anticipate the maiden voyage?


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## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

TN Hawkeye said:


> Man that looks awesome. When do you anticipate the maiden voyage?


I'm hoping to test it out this weekend. Down to just getting the chains on, and all the controls back on it.


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## Bmossin (May 31, 2018)

Awesome


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