# OK to aerate?



## Tex86 (Jun 4, 2017)

After my infestation of crabgrass last year, prodiamine was recommended to me by a few of you fellas and I had great results. This year I am following the same regimen and applying half the annual limit in Spring and the other half in the Fall.

I have my Spring application down, but I am unsure on if I should aerate in a few weeks with the fear of crabgrass returning full force. If it does, then ill used what worked for me last year whichnis a combination of Quinclorac, a surfactant, and some hand pulling.

Additionally, I have read studies saying it doesn't disrupt the barrier, however, what are y'alls experiences and opinions on this moving forward?


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## FATC1TY (Jul 12, 2017)

If you've got two down correctly, even with that, if you had a ton of crabgrass it'll return in some areas.

I wouldn't fear aerating, and would do so once the yard is green and able to repair itself.

Some people even split their apps even moreand do an application late spring to assist with certain weeds like goosegrass.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

Do you plan on topdressing after aerating?


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## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

Do you need to aerate? With the exception of a few trouble spot that I aerate by hand, I've never aerated my entire lawn.


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## Tex86 (Jun 4, 2017)

MQ, yes, once the holes fill up I will be leveling the yard. Tired of mowing my grass at a longer height because of how uneven it is.

Red, yeah, my soil here where I live is pretty bad. It definitely needs to be fully aerated.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

Tex86 said:


> MQ, yes, once the holes fill up I will be leveling the yard. Tired of mowing my grass at a longer height because of how uneven it is.
> 
> Red, yeah, my soil here where I live is pretty bad. It definitely needs to be fully aerated.


Why don't you just use the sand to fill in the holes?  Is your lawn actively growing right now?


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## Tex86 (Jun 4, 2017)

Mightyquinn said:


> Tex86 said:
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> > MQ, yes, once the holes fill up I will be leveling the yard. Tired of mowing my grass at a longer height because of how uneven it is.
> ...


You're right, I could!

No, not really. If I had to judge, I'd say it's about 30% green, if that. I know you want to do it when the grass is growing, which I am waiting for before I aerate. I'll attach a picture that I took 5 minutes ago of my backyard to give you an idea.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

What kind of mower do you have? Have you scalped at all?


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## Tex86 (Jun 4, 2017)

Mightyquinn said:


> What kind of mower do you have? Have you scalped at all?


I have a rotary mower. My yard is too lumpy to cut with a reel, which I plan on getting at the end of the year. That is if all goes well on getting this yard level.

With my rotary and a very sharp blade, I am scalping the grass in some areas with the mower at 1 inch or lower. It was an eyesore to say the least. Beautiful, green Bermuda in some areas, scalped bermuda in others.

After a while, I began cutting at 1.5 inches until I could get it leveled which helped, but it was frustrating to do so. So this year, it's time for a change.

In regard to scalping, I had it in the calendar to do it today, but it has been a strong drizzle since 9 a.m c.t. So I am under a weather delay.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

If you are planning a heavy leveling project, I would wait until the lawn is fully greened up before tackling that since it will recover a lot faster.


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## Tex86 (Jun 4, 2017)

Mightyquinn said:


> If you are planning a heavy leveling project, I would wait until the lawn is fully greened up before tackling that since it will recover a lot faster.


Couldn't agree with you more on that.


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## Fishnugget (Sep 29, 2017)

My backyard is lumpy as well, whats a good tool for areation of a small lawn, about 2000 sq ft?


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

Fishnugget said:


> My backyard us lumpy as well, whats a good tool for areation of a small lawn, about 2000 sq ft?


A walk-behind aerator rented from your local HD or equipment rental would tear up your 2k in record time. If you're feeling frisky and not in a hurry, you could buy a hand aerator and have a hoe-down on the lawn. :lol:


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

MasterMech said:


> Fishnugget said:
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> > My backyard us lumpy as well, whats a good tool for areation of a small lawn, about 2000 sq ft?
> ...


I agree, for 2K of lawn you could probably knock it out with a hand aerator in an hour or two easily.


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## high leverage (Jun 11, 2017)

I to have read the studies that aeration doesn't disturb the pre-emrgent barrier. And from my personal experience I am skeptical.

Here's the background story. I had a hand full of clients that wanted their fescue lawn aerated and over-seeded in the fall, roughly mid September. So I rented the unit for the whole day. I got done early and decided what the hell I'll go ahead and aerate my Bermuda. Knowing full well this was way too late to aerate Bermuda and have it fully recover before dormancy. I had applied prodiamine two weeks before the aeration and fully watered the herbicide in. Now here it is early spring and I have Henbit popping up in some areas at or near the aeration holes. So I can not say for certain these to circumstance are related but my gut feeling tells me they are. Either the aeration disturbed the barrier or the Henbit already started to germinate before I applied prodiamine.

This is what I now do for my clients that want aeration. I apply only enough prodiamine in February to cover a 3-4 month window. Roughly May to June time frame. I schedule all my aeration in May. I then follow up with a second round of either prodiamine or Dithiopyr (claims to have post-emergent non-tillered crabgrass control) just a few days after to aeration. At another 3-4 month rate to get me to fall. Then this fall I am switching to Specticle for it's pre-emergent control of Poa Annua. Keep in mind that I now do this for a living so I am able to justify the costs of all these different pre-emergnts. For a homeowner this maybe well outside of their annual herbicide budget


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## Tex86 (Jun 4, 2017)

high leverage said:


> I to have read the studies that aeration doesn't disturb the pre-emrgent barrier. And from my personal experience I am skeptical.
> 
> Here's the background story. I had a hand full of clients that wanted their fescue lawn aerated and over-seeded in the fall, roughly mid September. So I rented the unit for the whole day. I got done early and decided what the hell I'll go ahead and aerate my Bermuda. Knowing full well this was way too late to aerate Bermuda and have it fully recover before dormancy. I had applied prodiamine two weeks before the aeration and fully watered the herbicide in. Now here it is early spring and I have Henbit popping up in some areas at or near the aeration holes. So I can not say for certain these to circumstance are related but my gut feeling tells me they are. Either the aeration disturbed the barrier or the Henbit already started to germinate before I applied prodiamine.
> 
> This is what I now do for my clients that want aeration. I apply only enough prodiamine in February to cover a 3-4 month window. Roughly May to June time frame. I schedule all my aeration in May. I then follow up with a second round of either prodiamine or Dithiopyr (claims to have post-emergent non-tillered crabgrass control) just a few days after to aeration. At another 3-4 month rate to get me to fall. Then this fall I am switching to Specticle for it's pre-emergent control of Poa Annua. Keep in mind that I now do this for a living so I am able to justify the costs of all these different pre-emergnts. For a homeowner this maybe well outside of their annual herbicide budget


I am with you and think it does disturb the barrier when you aerate. Additionally your point in splitting applications up is a solid reason to spirit up into quarterly applications. I'll have to ponder on that.

My neighbors have poa everywhere. Fortunately, I hand pick mine the second I see them but I haven't had any issues. Never heard of Specticle though.


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## high leverage (Jun 11, 2017)

Tex86 said:


> high leverage said:
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> > I to have read the studies that aeration doesn't disturb the pre-emrgent barrier. And from my personal experience I am skeptical.
> ...


The price of Specticle per acre or 1000 ft2 is astronomical compared to prodiamine. Kinda puts it out of reach for most homeowners. For a weed control and fert company it can make since if you consider the cost of post-emergent herbicides for Poa Annua. I have no personal experience with Specticle yet but I heard from those that use it now swear by it. Like I said I plan to use it this fall.


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## Tex86 (Jun 4, 2017)

high leverage said:


> Tex86 said:
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Yeah, prodiamine is budget friendly. Keep is updated on the use of it this Fall. I'm curious to see it.


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## Fishnugget (Sep 29, 2017)

MasterMech said:


> Fishnugget said:
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> 
> > My backyard us lumpy as well, whats a good tool for areation of a small lawn, about 2000 sq ft?
> ...


Thanks MasterMech, I actually saw a hand aerator at my local home depot. Going to check out the rental prices on a walk behind. Recently landscaping my yards put a toll on my body. Dont mind paying a little more for an easier time aerating.


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## Fishnugget (Sep 29, 2017)

Mightyquinn said:


> MasterMech said:
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Thanks MQ, I will check it out. I will probably aerate/top dress once all my PRG is dead and the bermuda has taken over. I figure some time in April/May this will happen.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

Fishnugget said:


> MasterMech said:
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Hmm. Fair warning then - those walk-behind aerators are not a "walk in the park". They usually move quick and getting them turned around requires some effort. You are only doing a small area however. I doubt you'll feel it as much as I do after 20k!


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

MasterMech said:


> Fishnugget said:
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A piece of advice from someone that has rented one several times. I have found it best to go in concentric circles around the perimeter of your lawn. It's a lot easier to keep the momentum going around the "corners" than to stop, put the wheels down, turn the machine 180°, put the wheels back up and start on your next row. You will wear yourself out trying to use it like a mower :thumbup:


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

> A piece of advice from someone that has rented one several times. I have found it best to go in concentric circles around the perimeter of your lawn. It's a lot easier to keep the momentum going around the "corners" than to stop, put the wheels down, turn the machine 180°, put the wheels back up and start on your next row. You will wear yourself out trying to use it like a mower :thumbup:


 :thumbup:


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## Fishnugget (Sep 29, 2017)

Dang good advice guys, you just saved my back and arms, haha


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