# What kind of soil test should I have performed?...update: results



## Saint Louisan (Jul 31, 2019)

Hello all, I'm sure your already sick of the soil test questions but I could use a few tips from the experts....you all!

I've got a Missouri university extension office near me and plan on having my soil tested by them out of convenience.

My question, having never done a soil test before, which of the test services should I opt for as a first test? Should I choose the same test in concurrent yrs or would a more basic test be acceptable once the parameters are set?

https://extension2.missouri.edu/pro...ratory/spl-submit-samples/spl-tests-fees#soil

Tell me what test to pay for, or reccomend me a test facility so I can post it back here and beg for more advice.

Thanks for the read.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

The sticky thread in the soil forum has a few options that most of us use with last year prices. These involve mailing the samples in most cases. If you can take the sales to UM, then you could save $8 in the USPS small box. Assume you have high pH in your soil.

In an ideal world I think you should test for: pH, P, K, Can, Mg, iron and sulfur. For UM, that will be Regular analysis plus Fe, Cu, Mn plus sulfate-sulfur. Once you get things corrected, then you can do just the regular or every 3 yrs.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Agree. For your first soil test, you should test for the most parameters possible. After that you can test yearly to monitor only those nutrients you are adjusting and then just monitor the Primary nutrients every couple of years.
Some quality labs can be a better bargain than others. For instance, compare the cost of the S3C test from Midwest Labs to the total cost of testing the same items from UM. Both use the AA method for testing Base Cations (apples to apples).

Midwest Labs https://midwestlabs.com/our-industries/agriculture/soil-testing/
Organic Matter, Available Phosphorus, (both P1 Weak Bray and P2 Strong Bray) Exchangeable Potassium, Magnesium, Calcium and Hydrogen, Soil pH, Buffer Index, Cation Exchange Capacity, Percent Base Saturation, Soluble Salts, Sodium, Excess Lime, Sulfur, Zinc, Manganese, Iron, Copper, and Boron - $25.50
Add Olsen P test in case soil is alkaline + $1
Add recommendations +$1
Total: $27.50 + mailing/shipping

U of Missouri
Organic Matter, Available Phosphorus, P1 Weak Bray, Exchangeable Potassium, Magnesium, Calcium and Hydrogen, Soil pH, Cation Exchange Capacity, Buffer Index? (if not included, it is $6 additionally), Recommendations are included - $12.50
Soluble Salts - $6
Sodium - $2
Excess Lime -unavailable 
Sulfur - $5
Zinc, Manganese, Iron, Copper - $7.50
Boron - $5
Olsen P test in case soil pH is high - $5
Bray P2 - $4
Total $47 plus mailing/shipping
If you do not need or want to fully test in future years, as @g-man mentioned you could use the UM $12.50 basic test or the Midwest $10.50 basic test.

Give https://thelawnforum.com/posting.php?mode=edit&f=24&t=7162&p=122306 a read and see if that helps you.


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## Saint Louisan (Jul 31, 2019)

Well I finally got the results back.

I'm working from my phone (wouldn't matter if I was at a desktop I'm computer illiterate) and can't figure out how to edit the personal info from the download but yolo right? And (bonus) If anyone in my ao needs pool liner replacement or pump repair feel free to call or email. Lol

What do you fine folks think of my dirt? What's the bit mentioned at the bottom about soil water ph? 6.5 something or other.

When should I add the lime and what type? Also any reason why lime instead of gypsum? Looks like the magnesium is already high. And I know it's an inconsquential amount but wouldn't gypsum aid in loosening the clay soil as lime would not. Just asking, correct me if my broscience is wrong.

I was planning on dethatching in the coming week/s and aerating shortly thereafter...I guess. What would be an ideal timeline the mechanical works and application of lime? I take it I should apply a fast acting N fert.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I think you should use calcitic lime. It brings calcium into the soil and lowers the pH. Gypsum will bring calcium, but not address your pH. Do lime as soon as you can.

No need for P, but you can build up your potassium reserves. Mulch mow if possible.

Check the Soil Remediation Guide for more details of products.


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## Saint Louisan (Jul 31, 2019)

Should I wait until I dethatch to apply? And what form is this lime, pellets or powder? How do you generally apply it.

Is there another bag/slang name for this type of lime? I've done a quick search of my local Lowe's and home depot, there's several lime products but I'm not seeing "calcitic".

I'm gonna subject jump here but as long as I've got your ear.....Do you think it's ok to dethatch zoysia now or should wait a week or two? It started greening up slowly 2 weeks ago, I've mowed twice at 1.5". It's got about 1" of thatch at the moment.

Thank you for your time.


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## Saint Louisan (Jul 31, 2019)

Ok last questions I promise.

I've read up on your soil remediation guidelines, all very good info. I'm wondering about SOP application guidelines. What amount should I apply to my lawn(full 2lb) and how often? Once a yr or multiple smaller apps throughout...yearly or retest next year and go from there?

In regards to your application guidelines what does kqft and ksqft stand for?

My last question or better bit of advice I'm seeking (there may well a posted thread, there's alot to take in here) would be a timeline for applying the lime and SOP this spring. Toss it down a couple days apart..a week or 3? Then just business as usual?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

SOP max is 2lb of SOP per 1000 square feet of lawn and can apply this once a month. Ksqft = 1000 sqft. Target the months the lawn is growing and re test next year to see the improvement. If you can keep the SOP 2 weeks after lime, great.


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## Saint Louisan (Jul 31, 2019)

Thank you sir, I appreciate your time.


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