# Multiple MOA Pre-Emergent Plan for Small Bermuda Yards



## Amoo316

If you're one of those people that just throws down 1 pre-emergent (Pre-M) and treats whatever pops up with post and are happy with that approach, this thread is not for you. The goal of this post is to provide a guide for people who want to try the multiple Mode of Action (MOA) + "Zone Defense" approach as highlighted by the UT Turf Trials (Video at bottom of Post). This post is intended to be educational and used as a guide, not gospel.

The goal of 3MOA + Zone Defense is to minimize any spot treating needed throughout the year. You may have to make minor changes year over year if you have specific trouble weeds that this program doesn't cover, but you should be relatively close to total control of most weeds. Sedges and Kyllinga take a few years to kill off as regular Pre-Ms don't kill off nutlets and tubers.

*SPRING*
As soil temps begin to approach 55F you want to put out your first Spring Pre-M. Spring Pre-M is treating for weeds you'll start seeing in the summer.

*Spring 1* (Broadcast): Coastal @ .55oz/1000ft2
Wait 30-60 days
*Spring 2* (Broadcast): Coastal @ .55oz/1000ft2 + Quinclorac @ 10.4g/1000ft2 + Sulfentrazone @ .14oz/1000ft2
Wait 35 days
*Spring 3* (Broadcast): Sulfentrazone @ .14oz/1000ft2

*Note 1*: If any crabgrass remains 30 days after Spring 2: Spot Treat - Quinclorac @10.4g/1000ft2 + MSO
*Note 2*: If any weeds remain 30 days after Spring 3:, spot treat with Celsius and Certainty (Sulfosulfuron) for most weeds (See Labels) or Sedgehammer/Empero (Halosulfuron) for Sedges/Kyllinga.

*FALL*
As soil temps begin to approach 70F you want to be putting out your first fall Pre-M. Fall Pre-M is for weeds you'll see in the winter and the spring.

*Fall 1* (Broadcast): Coastal @ .73oz/1000ft2
Wait 30-60 days
*Fall 2* (Broadcast): Coastal @ .73oz/1000ft2 + Certainty (Sulfosulfuron) @ 1.6g/1000ft2

*Note 3*: Can substitute Negate for Certainty
*Note 4: * If any POA remains 30 days after Fall 2, spot treat with Certainty (Sulfosulfuron) @ .8g/1000ft + NIS
*Note 5:* Certanty (sulfosulfuron) can be combined with Glyphosate on DORMANT Bermuda grass for spot treatment. Read the Label.

All links are to Domyown.com. Please use the link at the top of the forums to help support the site. These products and rates are for these exact versions of these products. Please use the marketplace exchange for splits or shop around for best prices.

*Products required:*
Coastal: https://www.domyown.com/coastal-herbicide-p-22477.html
Quinclorac: https://www.domyown.com/prime-source-quinclorac-75-df-select-herbicide-p-12205.html
Sulfentrazone: https://www.domyown.com/agrisel-sulfentrazone-4f-herbicide-p-21369.html
Certainty: https://www.domyown.com/certainty-herbicide-125-oz-p-1339.html

*Spot Treat products:*
Celsius: https://www.domyown.com/celsius-wg-herbicide-p-1923.html
Empero: https://www.domyown.com/empero-p-20869.html
Methylated Seed Oil (MSO): https://www.domyown.com/prime-source-duo-stick-p-12239.html
Non-Ionic Surfactant (NIS): https://www.domyown.com/nonionic-surfactant-for-herbicides-p-1771.html

*Spring Explanation:*
Spring 1 you are trying to get your 3MOA Pre-M down before preemergence of crabgrass and other broadleaf weeds.
Spring 2 you are putting down the second half of your split dose of 3MOA Pre-M. The Quinclorac is acting as a post-emergent (POST) for any crabgrass plus everything else listed on the label that happened to germinate. This is part of the zone defense approach in the video below. The Sulfentrazone is acting as a pre-emergent for nutsedge/kyllinga and providing control for everything else on it's label. If you want to spray just the Coastal + Sulfentrazone in Spring 2 by itself, water it in, then go back and follow up with Quinclorac + MSO in Spring 2 you may increase your effectiveness.
Spring 3 is a follow up Pre-M dose of Sulfentrazone for pre-M purposes.
Notes 1 and 2 are worst case scenario and how to handle spot treating if you even have to. They are not expected to be needed, but in the event they are, they are part of this guide.

*Fall Explanation:*
Fall 1 you are again trying to get down your first 3MOA Pre-M before germination of POA and other winter/spring weeds.
Fall 2 you are applying your second split app of 3MOA Pre-M. Certanty(Sulfosulfuron) is used at the high rate for any POA that germinated already as well as other weeds on it's label If you want to spray just the Coastal then water it in, then follow up with Certainty + NIS in Fall 2, you may increase your effectiveness.
Note 3: If you want to substitute Negate for Certainty in Fall 2 you can do so and it will be cheaper.
Note 4 and Note 5 are for any spot treated needed.

Cost Per 1000ft2 (K) as of this post:
Coastal = 2.56oz/K per year @ $4.90/K
Quinclorac = 10.4g/K per year @ $1.19/K
Sulfentrazone = .28oz/K per year @ $2.02/K
Certainty = 1.6g/K per year @ $4.55/K
Annual Pre-M + Zone Defense total = $12.66/K

Add Celsius and Empero and you will have everything you need to treat almost any weed in your yard all year long IF you get any breakthrough.

PLEASE DOUBLE CHECK ALL LABELS BEFORE MAKING ANY APPLICATIONS.

WARNING: All broadcast apps are meant to be applied without surfactant and are to be sprayed and watered in as per label instructions. Do not use surfactants with Coastal or Sulfentrazone in this plan.

This is intended to be a guide to show people the cost and a plan they can follow. It's extremely important you understand what you are putting down, how much you are putting down and why you are putting it down. As you learn more you may want to rotate out different MOAs for sedge control annually as recommended or other things, but this plan should be used as a guide of how to develop a year long weed prevention plan.

This may apply to other warm season lawns, but I only checked rates for Bermuda.

Credit to @cldrunner and @Jagermeister for in depth discussions on these topics.

**Somebody please double check my math**

[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O4sKzPLnoq4[/media]


----------



## BU Bear

Very informative - definitely bookmarking for later! Is there any benefit to using Coastal rather than separately mixing the three AIs separately? Seems like for larger lawns that may be the more cost effective (per app) solution - plus I already have pretty much a lifetime supply of prodiamine on hand.


----------



## Amoo316

BU Bear said:


> Very informative - definitely bookmarking for later! Is there any benefit to using Coastal rather than separately mixing the three AIs separately? Seems like for larger lawns that may be the more cost effective (per app) solution - plus I already have pretty much a lifetime supply of prodiamine on hand.


I specifically made this for smaller yards and for folks to keep as few chemicals on hand as possible. I may do one for larger yards at some point. I just wanted a place to consolidate all the info since it keeps popping up.

It's almost always cheaper to roll your own. It's just bigger container sitting around for longer, so I didn't want to add that as part of the OP.


----------



## Jagermeister

@Amoo316 Nice work summarizing all of this!

As you state, Coastal (or Echelon) are good solutions to keep it simple, esp for smaller yards and for those can't find folks to split chems with. If you attempt to go the multi-MOA route, you will end up with decades worth of chems that will go bad!


----------



## Amoo316

WOW Echelon is way over priced for what it is. Prodiamine + Sulfentrazone for $400 for a gallon with only 13.6% Sulfentrazone. I'd definitely stay away from that one.


----------



## Jagermeister

Amoo316 said:


> WOW Echelon is way over priced for what it is. Prodiamine + Sulfentrazone for $400 for a gallon with only 13.6% Sulfentrazone. I'd definitely stay away from that one.


Yeah, all of these branded mixes are super premium for what is in them.....Solitaire, Speedzone, TZone, Echelon, etc etc. roll your own if you can!


----------



## Ware

I would just note that utilizing multiple MOA's simultaneously to target a difficult to control weed like poa is not the same as rotating MOA's to prevent resistance. Repetitive application of those same three groups can cause some of the same issues as applying one MOA repetitively. This is addressed on page 4 of the Coastal label:



I just don't want anyone reading this to mistake this for an MOA rotation plan, which is another topic that comes up a lot. :thumbup:


----------



## Amoo316

Ware said:


> I would just note that utilizing multiple MOA's simultaneously to target a difficult to control weed like poa is not the same as rotating MOA's to prevent resistance. Repetitive application of those same three groups can cause some of the same issues as applying one MOA repetitively. This is addressed on page 4 of the Coastal label:
> 
> 
> 
> I just don't want anyone reading this to mistake this for an MOA rotation plan, which is another topic that comes up a lot. :thumbup:


Exactly @Ware . The idea behind multiple MOAs with "Zone Defense" is IF you have any breakthroughs, you're relying on the zone defense part of the strategy to kill them and stop resistance as opposed to just using 1MOA and no zone defense. Study is still on going.

Rotating MOA vs This strategy is still in testing as well.


----------



## JayGo

I've used prodiamine in the Spring and dithiopyr in the Fall for the last 6 years. It's worked great for me thus far.
Like most folks, I'll get a few sedges, and I'll spray those. On occasion, I'll see a bit of oxalis here and there. I just pull those as soon as I see them.
But for sure, my lack of weeds is not a result from me doing more than just pre-em and hand pulling. It's probably luck.

It was either just last year or the year before that I saw a Matt Martin video where he recommends rotating pre-em AI's to help reduce weeds developing a resistance. I figure I'll just keep doing what I've been doing until I see it not working.

I feel like I should know more about weed control after the years I've been digging this lawn hobby, but I've been fortunate to have not had the problems that would make me go down that rabbit hole.
Knock on wood. ✊&#127997;&#128682;


----------



## Amoo316

I realized this was a sensitive topic, and I was hesitant to even make the post. At the end of the day, I try to follow the science side of it as much as possible. I also know that science on paper doesn't always work out well in practice. Our yards are not 16x16 test plots.
Right now the science is saying 3MOA is more effective in combating breakthrough, than 1 MOA even on rotation. The science is still out on how 3MOA + "Zone Defense" Compares to rotating in regards to resistance.

At the end of the day I think we could all agree Indaziflam (Specticle Flo) is probably the best single product on the market, with no known resistances. Their tests considered that and got better results with Indaziflam + 2 others, then Indaziflam alone.

I don't want to turn this into a justification for 3MOA vs 1 MOA. That IMO is another topic. I know there are many people on this forum who use just Prodiamine and Post and have very little weed pressure and think this is all silly. As I said, I think that's another topic of conversation. I wanted a place to consolidate all of the 3MOA + Zone talk after the 3rd thread popped up asking about it after our initial discussion. That is where I would like to stay here.


----------



## JayGo

To be clear, @Amoo316, I'm not dogging your post at all. I sure hope that isn't the way it comes across.

I'm simply putting my method out there. It has absolutely worked for me. Maybe it'll work for someone else. Maybe it won't.
The multi-MOA approach makes total sense. I'm just glad I haven't needed to jump into those waters, yet.


----------



## Amoo316

JayGo said:


> To be clear, @Amoo316, I'm not dogging your post at all. I sure hope that isn't the way it comes across.
> 
> I'm simply putting my method out there. It has absolutely worked for me. Maybe it'll work for someone else. Maybe it won't.
> The multi-MOA approach makes total sense. I'm just glad I haven't needed to jump into those waters, yet.


Sorry @JayGo I didn't mean for that to come across like it was directed at you. It certainly wasn't. I apologize if you took it that way. MQ has one of the best looking lawns on this site IMO and he's a straight Prodiamine guy. I get it. I also realize there is a lot of we'll say "skepticism/criticism" around this method and would prefer to keep that discussion about what's better somewhere else. Obviously people can post what they want, I just wanted to consolidate this info here since we've seen it pop up multiple times now.


----------



## Ware

JayGo said:


> I've used prodiamine in the Spring and dithiopyr in the Fall for the last 6 years. It's worked great for me thus far.
> Like most folks, I'll get a few sedges, and I'll spray those. On occasion, I'll see a bit of oxalis here and there. I just pull those as soon as I see them.
> But for sure, my lack of weeds is not a result from me doing more than just pre-em and hand pulling. It's probably luck.
> 
> It was either just last year or the year before that I saw a Matt Martin video where he recommends rotating pre-em AI's to help reduce weeds developing a resistance. I figure I'll just keep doing what I've been doing until I see it not working.
> 
> I feel like I should know more about weed control after the years I've been digging this lawn hobby, but I've been fortunate to have not had the problems that would make me go down that rabbit hole.
> Knock on wood. ✊🏽🚪


I'm pretty sure Prodiamine and Dithiopyr are both Group 3 herbicides, but it is clearly working for you. Your results speak for themselves. I'm of the opinion that maintaining a nice tight bermuda lawn often does more to combat weed pressure than worrying about what you should spray next. :thumbup:


----------



## cldrunner

@Amoo316 that is a great analysis for small yards. This should help folks develop a good pre and post plan. From a cost standpoint if I had a <5k yard I would be using Coastal or rotating with Indaziflam.

It is amazing that all the big box retailers for the most part only provide group 3 pre -emergents. Some of the smaller garden centers carry isoxaben. For rotating MOA the big retailers and herbicide companies do not seem to care. I guess the group 3's seem to be more forgiving for the small or large consumer.


----------



## Amoo316

cldrunner said:


> It is amazing that all the big box retailers for the most part only provide group 3 pre -emergents. Some of the smaller garden centers carry isoxaben. For rotating MOA the big retailers and herbicide companies do not seem to care. I guess the group 3's seem to be more forgiving for the small or large consumer.


Cost.

If the cost of fert + pre-M is significantly more expensive then "weed & feed" most people are just going to wonder why bother imo.


----------



## GoDawgs

Great write up! Wish I had found this info prior to purchasing individually. Once I get through this 14 year supply of indaziflam, prodiamine and simazine I'm definitely jumping on board the coastal train.


----------



## Trader Jay

@ Amoo316. Thanks for sharing. Just had a quick question regarding the spring application of Coastal. Label allows for 1.10 oz per 1000 sqft during Spring, which would be 0.55 oz on Spring 1 application and 0.55 oz on Spring 2 application. Am I missing something? Let me know. Thanks


----------



## Amoo316

Trader Jay said:


> @ Amoo316. Thanks for sharing. Just had a quick question regarding the spring application of Coastal. Label allows for 1.10 oz per 1000 sqft during Spring, which would be 0.55 oz on Spring 1 application and 0.55 oz on Spring 2 application. Am I missing something? Let me know. Thanks


Good catch, thank you. I double split the app when doing the math there. 1.10oz/K total for spring is the correct number.

Fixed spring and double checked the fall math and we're good on coastal. Adjusted overall price per K


----------



## d213rr

I just bought a vacation home in South Carolina which has zoysia, possibly Palisades. There is a significant amount of spurge and some other weeds that I'd like to take care of quickly, but it is also about time to put down the first pre-emergent (per this topic). I bought Coastal, but also have Celsius and Certainty at the ready.

Should I just spray Coastal and will that do the trick on the existing weeds and prevent in the future, or should I go ahead and spot or broadcast spray one or both of the post-emergent herbicides, then apply Coastal? How long should I wait between, or could I spray multiple together to do it in one fell swoop?

Thank you


----------



## Amoo316

d213rr said:


> I just bought a vacation home in South Carolina which has zoysia, possibly Palisades. There is a significant amount of spurge and some other weeds that I'd like to take care of quickly, but it is also about time to put down the first pre-emergent (per this topic). I bought Coastal, but also have Celsius and Certainty at the ready.
> 
> Should I just spray Coastal and will that do the trick on the existing weeds and prevent in the future, or should I go ahead and spot or broadcast spray one or both of the post-emergent herbicides, then apply Coastal? How long should I wait between, or could I spray multiple together to do it in one fell swoop?
> 
> Thank you


You'd have to double check the labels on each for Zoysia. Coastal prevents weeds from germinating, it doesn't kill the weeds that are already there. Granted the spurge you mentioned would die off in the cold weather.

Spurge is a broadleaf weed, any generic 3-way herbicide like Trimec Southern would be a much cheaper solution then Celcius and Certainty if you really want to take care of it. A generic 3 way is what I put down with my Fall 1.


----------



## cldrunner

@Amoo316 @d213rr

https://www.sipcamagrousa.com/turf-products/herbicides/coastal/
https://www.sipcamagrousa.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/COASTAL_sell-sheet.pdf

Weeds controlled post emergent on page 5.
https://www.sipcamagrousa.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/11/Coastal-Label-Cropped.pdf

It does kill some weeds that are there. That is what the Imazaquin is in the mix for. Unfortunately spurge is not labeled for post emergent.


----------



## Amoo316

@cldrunner Good links. I am aware Imazaquin has post properties, but I kind of classify it like Simazine, where it has some pre and some post. My understanding of it, is it's in the same group as all of the sulf-urea (ALS inhibitors), hence it's frequently used as a sedge control product. I understand why they put it in the mix, but I doubt it had much to do with it's post control. It's possible they're getting decent coverage with SImazine and Imazquin for post, but both of those product tend to lag well behind others of price vs performance for a lot of their labeled post uses.

Here'sthe Image label which is the granular version of Imazaquin


----------



## d213rr

Hi, Ron Henry posted a new video today and talked about Coastal. He said the rate for warm season grasses was just under 1.5 fluid ounces/1000.

Probably a rookie question but are the rates noted in the first post by weight versus fluid ounces? What am I missing?

I measured the 0.73/1000 by fluid ounces on my first apps so may have given a half dose for my first app.

Also another rookie mistake...I applied it with a foliar spray tip.


----------



## Highlife159

d213rr said:


> Hi, Ron Henry posted a new video today and talked about Coastal. He said the rate for warm season grasses was just under 1.5 fluid ounces/1000.
> 
> Probably a rookie question but are the rates noted in the first post by weight versus fluid ounces? What am I missing?
> 
> I measured the 0.73/1000 by fluid ounces on my first apps so may have given a half dose for my first app.
> 
> Also another rookie mistake...I applied it with a foliar spray tip.


Definitely not as experienced as some of the people here but I believe the 1.5 rate he's using in the video is the maximum single application rate from the label  (in the label it says max single application is 64 floz/acre which is ~1.47 floz/1000). The rates @ammo82 is suggesting are broken up into multiple smaller applications which has multiple benefits but mainly is done to cover any spots that you might have missed in the initial application or spots that might have been washed out by heavy rain.

As long as you make your second application within 45-60 days you should be good.


----------



## d213rr

Oh, thank you. Not sure why I didn't think of that.


----------



## Hoghead22

@Amoo316 I'm about to apply my fall 2 according to your multiple MOA plan with the rain in the forecast. Can I mix the certainty with the coastal or should I apply that separate?


----------



## Rick S

Thank you for posting this. I am always learning new things here.


----------



## Rick S

I know it's off topic, but this is a great place to ask.
I have a large yard with a lot of trees and shade (that I don't want to get rid of). 
My yard is predominantly Bermuda with a lot of Fescue in the shade areas.

I use Prodiamine in the Fall and Dithiopyr in the Spring on the Fescue only.
I use one of those, plus Simazine and Indaziflam on the Bermuda only. All of those are split apps.

It's doable, but I have to really watch my lines so I don't get overspray on the adjacent grass, double apply an area, or miss an area entirely.

It would be nice if I could spray both the Fescue and the Bermuda with the same tank mixture.

Other than Prodiamine and Dithiopyr: Are there any other Pre-Emergents that are safe on both Warm Season and Cool Season grasses - that would give me the 3 MOA control?


----------



## Theycallmemrr

Indaziflam aka Specticle Flo aka Esplanade.
Isoxaben


----------



## Rick S

Theycallmemrr said:


> Indaziflam aka Specticle Flo aka Esplanade.
> Isoxaben


 Thanks. But Specticle Flo's label shows it is for Warm Season Grasses only. It specifies "Do Not use on Tall Fescue."


----------



## Theycallmemrr

Rick S said:


> Theycallmemrr said:
> 
> 
> 
> Indaziflam aka Specticle Flo aka Esplanade.
> Isoxaben
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. But Specticle Flo's label shows it is for Warm Season Grasses only. It specifies "Do Not use on Tall Fescue."
Click to expand...

Sorry about the recommendation of Specticle Flo. I checked the product guide and did not see any mention of it for warm season grasses only. I should I have checked the label.


----------



## Jagermeister

Rick S said:


> I know it's off topic, but this is a great place to ask.
> I have a large yard with a lot of trees and shade (that I don't want to get rid of).
> My yard is predominantly Bermuda with a lot of Fescue in the shade areas.
> 
> I use Prodiamine in the Fall and Dithiopyr in the Spring on the Fescue only.
> I use one of those, plus Simazine and Indaziflam on the Bermuda only. All of those are split apps.
> 
> It's doable, but I have to really watch my lines so I don't get overspray on the adjacent grass, double apply an area, or miss an area entirely.
> 
> It would be nice if I could spray both the Fescue and the Bermuda with the same tank mixture.
> 
> Other than Prodiamine and Dithiopyr: Are there any other Pre-Emergents that are safe on both Warm Season and Cool Season grasses - that would give me the 3 MOA control?


I am dealing with the same issue. I have a super shady section that is Fescue and the rest of my yard is Bermuda. I have to have two different pre-m strategies and still sorting that out. The only pre-ms that I know of that works on both warm and cool are prodiamine and dithiopyr that you mentioned. For fescue / cool season, there not many options. You can add in tenacity and ethofumesate for cool seaon. You can use ethofumesate on dormant bermuda and has some post effects on poa. Problem with these is that it doesn't last long and have to reapply.


----------



## Bombers

Rick S said:


> Theycallmemrr said:
> 
> 
> 
> Indaziflam aka Specticle Flo aka Esplanade.
> Isoxaben
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. But Specticle Flo's label shows it is for Warm Season Grasses only. It specifies "Do Not use on Tall Fescue."
Click to expand...

https://www.domyown.com/bensumec-4lf-herbicide-p-1576.html


----------



## Rick S

Thanks Bombers.


----------



## Amoo316

Hoghead22 said:


> @Amoo316 I'm about to apply my fall 2 according to your multiple MOA plan with the rain in the forecast. Can I mix the certainty with the coastal or should I apply that separate?


Sorry for the delayed response, been out of town a lot the last 2.5 weeks with my final tournaments of the year.

It depends. I DON'T spray them separate if I'm not concerned I missed much in Fall 1 and I'm not seeing much when it's time for Fall 2.

If you want to get the most out of the Certainty, spray it separate with the recommended surfactant.

You will get better effectiveness spraying them separate, but based on what I have seen it's not a necessity. To say the effectiveness is the same though would simply be untrue. It's close, but not the same. For a small yard, if you can spray them separate, go ahead. For a larger yard, it makes more sense to spray them together.


----------



## Amoo316

@Rick S your best bet would be to use this chart and check the Pre-Ms on it and see if there is any cross over in warm and cool season.

https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdf/AG/AG39800.pdf


----------



## Hoghead22

@Amoo316 I got my second round of coastal down with the certainty. We happened to get heavy rains the night of, like a couple inches. Do you think it's okay or should I reapply?


----------



## cldrunner

@Hoghead22 I think you will be fine. If it was me I would not apply again. You could have some movement into other areas so if you applied again those areas would be double or triple dosed. I think you probably hadgood timing and it got watered in well.


----------



## Amoo316

I tend to agree with @cldrunner on this one. You have a small yard. Just keep an eye on it through winter and if you start seeing some breakthrough you can always cheaply knock it out with a dormant Glypho spray. I would hedge my bets closer to you being fine though.


----------



## Katodude

So after getting about 4 inches of rain in the last couple of days, looking to tweak this plan for S. Florida. Since we never go dormant and the weather is still severe I need to keep the barrier strong. I am currently using Prodiamine and Pennant Magnum with split apps. Going to add Isoxaben since I have pretty strong pressure from broad leaf weeds. So between 3 different MOA's and splitting apps I can put down one product every 2 months.

The only thing I add to the PreM is urea since both like being watered in fairly quickly. Its more work, but I think for my environment will yield better results.


----------



## itsmejson

@Amoo316 question for fall 2 app it says coastal + certainty. Are these to be mixed and applied at the same time? it says in the notes to not use surfactant with coastal.

I’m thinking they are applied separately? Thx


----------



## vallecrucis

Another question - I'm doing Fall #2 soon and I will probably try to add the Certainty in the mix on this one. First time using it - is the rate here correct?
"Certainty (Sulfosulfuron) @ 1.6g/1000ft2"

I was reading the label a bit online last night, and for some reason that seemed kinda high?


----------



## cldrunner

vallecrucis said:


> Another question - I'm doing Fall #2 soon and I will probably try to add the Certainty in the mix on this one. First time using it - is the rate here correct?
> "Certainty (Sulfosulfuron) @ 1.6g/1000ft2"
> 
> I was reading the label a bit online last night, and for some reason that seemed kinda high?


The way I understand that is the 1.6g is the 2 oz per acre rate. I have always used the 1.25 oz/acre rate for sedges with good results. I would probably go with the lower rate, wait 30 days, then apply again if needed. What exactly are you trying to kill with Certainty?

EDIT: For selective control of annual bluegrass (Poa annua), apply this product at 1.25 to 2.0 ounces per acre. Use the higher rate of this product for control in areas of established, dense weed infestation.


----------

