# $300 toro greensmaster 1000 (old unit) - guidance needed



## ISU (May 8, 2019)

New to the forum and hoping to get some guidance on purchasing what would be my first reel mower. Found local craigslist ad asking $300. based on other threads this would appear to be a steal. Per the seller he has owned the unit for 5yrs but only used it 10times or so (unit has mainly sat). He indicated got it tuned up recently and that runs good. My concern is the age and wondering if price is fair for such older unit. Would any of u shy away from such old unit? per image the reel looks in need to be replaced as appears to be rusted. Would this unit be a good buy or am I looking at having to put a bunch of money upfront? Hoping the unit does run good as stated by seller and only needing to replace the reel. I recently started to mow lower at 1" or so with rotary mower (toro recycler-Kentucky blue) and thanks to The lawn rebel I got hooked on the look of mowing low and now wanting to take lawn to the next level with using greensmower.


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## jimbeckel (May 27, 2018)

I'd go for it, $300 seems like a fair price, reel replacement isn't too bad and while you're in there replace the bearings.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

^+1 and that is assuming you need to replace the reel. All it might need is a sharpening or backslap.


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

I appreciate the response fellas, I'm sure I'll have more questions once I have the unit. Any ideas as to the age range of the unit?(1999?). Im going to look at it this Saturday, if all it ends up needing is a good sharpening i will hold off on new reel for a bit. Are these unit heavy? Planning on transporting it home in my Jeep (grand Cherokee), I want to say I read somewhere they are 275lbs...is that right? So how often are u guys mowing during the grown season? I'm already having to mow 2-3 times a week with the rotary to keep up with the grass, is it crazy to want to mow every other day with the reel mower? 

Can't wait to see what that mower does to the lawn, pumped! This is the current state of the lawn today. (Should see milo kicking in soon, put down first app of the season over a week ago).


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Yes they are heavy, but nothing your jeep can't handle. Taking the handles off will make it easier to load/unload from the SUV. A helper (neighbor) will be ideal.

PGR (t-nex) reduces your mowing frequency. Nice lawn by the way.


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## walk1355 (May 31, 2018)

When loading take the transport wheels off and use the axles as a grab point to help lift the mower.


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## Trippel24 (Jul 9, 2018)

ISU said:


> I appreciate the response fellas, I'm sure I'll have more questions once I have the unit. Any ideas as to the age range of the unit?(1999?). Im going to look at it this Saturday, if all it ends up needing is a good sharpening i will hold off on new reel for a bit. Are these unit heavy? Planning on transporting it home in my Jeep (grand Cherokee), I want to say I read somewhere they are 275lbs...is that right? So how often are u guys mowing during the grown season? I'm already having to mow 2-3 times a week with the rotary to keep up with the grass, is it crazy to want to mow every other day with the reel mower?
> 
> Can't wait to see what that mower does to the lawn, pumped! This is the current state of the lawn today. (Should see milo kicking in soon, put down first app of the season over a week ago).


They are heavy. I needed help loading into my truck, but was able to lift it out... don't recommend this. I paid $400 for mine and was in much better condition. I had my golf course mechanic give it a look and all he did was backlap, change oil & spark plug, and greased all the fittings. I wouldn't run from the $300, but try to negotiate a few bucks off.


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## Jordan90 (Apr 7, 2019)

Buy it for sure maybe sneak down the price if you can to save you some $ for any replacement parts you may need. They are heavy for sure, so bring a friend.

I haven't used it but if you're going to be cutting it a lot I'd look into PGR. I plan on getting into it once I get the mowing frequency established.


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

Yeah I plan on offering less than asking price since Ad has been up for almost a month (don't see much of a market for a homeowner buying reel mower around here). Either way I plan on bringing it home with me. Any idea of the age of such unit? Thinking has to be a 1995 or so model but not sure yet, not much I have found online. Once I have the mower can I search for manual via toro site using the model#?


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

ISU said:


> Yeah I plan on offering less than asking price since Ad has been up for almost a month (don't see much of a market for a homeowner buying reel mower around here). Either way I plan on bringing it home with me. Any idea of the age of such unit? Thinking has to be a 1995 or so model but not sure yet, not much I have found online. Once I have the mower can I search for manual via toro site using the model#?


Yep, the model can usually be found on a plate on the rear of the mower. The toro site where you can plug in the serial number can be found on the general Toro question and answer thread.


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## zeus201 (Aug 30, 2017)

I saw this on CL as well and thought about buying it as a parts mower, but wife would kill me having 3 greens mowers.

I would offer $100 and see what happens.

Like everyone else said, get PGR, especially at lower HOC.


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## Reelsharpcarolina21 (Apr 14, 2019)

That's a good deal on the gm 1000 just give it a sturdy look over before purchasing.
Go as far as pulling covers off and looking at belts and make sure they're in decent shape. Use the bit of rust and state of reel and bedknife as negotiation points for a lower price.
These machines are well built. I've bout a lot of gm 1000's. They're hard to beat. Good luck and enjoy!


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

thanks for all the input fellas, I certainly plan on checking everything I can when I go get it this Saturday. Question regarding the reel being rusted , based on the image would you say it would be a must to get it stone grind or will good backslap be all needed to start cutting with it? I'm going to be tempted to use it right away so just wondering if something I should take in to get restored right away prior to using it. Hoping a good backslap will get me by to start using the unit right away ( assuming it runs good and bed knife not in bad shape etc) but I do plan on getting the reel replace either this season or prior to next for sure.


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

Zeus- Glad you decided not to pull the trigger on it, don't think I seen these local. Are you near Des Moines? If so, any place in particular you recommend where for parts locally or taking in to get work done? I plan on doing everting myself but I do have a toro distributor near by I get all my irrigation parts from so plan on stopping by there to see if they work on these...they cater to golf courses and sale toro mowers so I assume they would.


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## Polarjk (Aug 16, 2018)

Check out your local toro dealer they normally have trade in for about 200$. I bought both mine that way. Give them a good look over mine got me threw a year before I need a new reel.


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## zeus201 (Aug 30, 2017)

ISU said:


> Zeus- Glad you decided not to pull the trigger on it, don't think I seen these local. Are you near Des Moines? If so, any place in particular you recommend where for parts locally or taking in to get work done? I plan on doing everting myself but I do have a toro distributor near by I get all my irrigation parts from so plan on stopping by there to see if they work on these...they cater to golf courses and sale toro mowers so I assume they would.


Did you end up picking it up? I live up in Huxley, yourself? As for service, I remember the guy who runs Zimco Turf Supply telling me places to go but I cannot remember. Biggest thing is finding a place to do the grind and relief cut on the reel, but everything else I would tackle myself like you.

As for Toro specific parts, my brother-in law used to work for Toro and still has contacts there and can help get Toro specific parts at cost basically. However, majority of parts can be purchased from R&R (https://www.rrproducts.com/), but if you ever need anything specific from Toro, let me know and I can ask him.


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

zeus201 said:
 

> As for Toro specific parts, my brother-in law used to work for Toro and still has contacts there and can help get Toro specific parts at cost basically.


You could make A LOT of friends on here fast with that comment. :shock: :shock: :shock:


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

zeus201 said:


> ISU said:
> 
> 
> > Zeus- Glad you decided not to pull the trigger on it, don't think I seen these local. Are you near Des Moines? If so, any place in particular you recommend where for parts locally or taking in to get work done? I plan on doing everting myself but I do have a toro distributor near by I get all my irrigation parts from so plan on stopping by there to see if they work on these...they cater to golf courses and sale toro mowers so I assume they would.
> ...


Getting her tomorrow morning...just dont have time to go up there during the week, will provide more info once I have it. I'll definitely reach if unable to find parts needed in the future. :thumbup:


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

Ok fellas she's at home now...looks like I will need to replace the back covers at some point. The mower runs but if u let go of the choke the mower stops. He recently changed the carburetor and said perhaps got the wrong one as not identical to the prior one (which he gave me in case wanted to swap it). Any ideas of what could be causing the mower to stop running ? Adding images below


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

Also no serial # on back of the frame...it basically gone. And no idea what year this unit is to lookup parts.


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

Any chance he still has that old carb he replaced? The one for that model runs about $120 so it would be great if you could just rebuild the old one. I rebuilt 2 just last week.


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

Going to be hard to figure out what model it is. My best guess would be that maybe the throttle stickers changed some over the years. Try and match those with the toro parts online. May be a terrible idea but figured you needed somewhere to start.


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

SGrabs33 said:


> Any chance he still has that old carb he replaced? The one for that model runs about $120 so it would be great if you could just rebuild the old one. I rebuilt 2 just last week.


Yeah he gave me the old one just in case so I do have it. Do I just take it apart and clean it good? Also there's a serial# on the carb, would that help find the mower model#?


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

@ISU nice! I took mine almost as far apart as possible and soaked everything in a can of Gunk Carb Cleaner. It cleaned everything up really nice.

Next step for you would prob be to go to firedog.com and look up a generic Kawasaki FE120 carb parts diagram to make sure you have everything. If you have everything and it's descent then I'd reccomend the carb cleaner I mentioned before. You could also use carb cleaner spray. I opted for the soak as I have 2 I'm rebuilding and the liquid can be reused.


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## jimbeckel (May 27, 2018)

ISU said:


> Ok fellas she's at home now...looks like I will need to replace the back covers at some point. The mower runs but if u let go of the choke the mower stops. He recently changed the carburetor and said perhaps got the wrong one as not identical to the prior one (which he gave me in case wanted to swap it). Any ideas of what could be causing the mower to stop running ? Adding images below



Attached is the carb on my unit, looks like a connecting rod is not connected on your carb, this might be the cause of your unit dying.


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

jimbeckel said:


> ISU said:
> 
> 
> > Ok fellas she's at home now...looks like I will need to replace the back covers at some point. The mower runs but if u let go of the choke the mower stops. He recently changed the carburetor and said perhaps got the wrong one as not identical to the prior one (which he gave me in case wanted to swap it). Any ideas of what could be causing the mower to stop running ? Adding images below
> ...


I found the connecting rod and was not connected .... what exactly does this connector do? I just tried to connected to the carb but since it's an aftermarket carb the rod has a slight bent on the end so doesn't go into the slot of the carb.


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

Also, should the connector go in the circular slot or the other on this carb? This might be a stupid question but I just don't know much these things...hoping I can get it running without drying after it starts.


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## cwrx82 (Sep 16, 2018)

ISU said:


> Also, should the connector go in the circular slot or the other on this carb? This might be a stupid question but I just don't know much these things...hoping I can get it running without drying after it starts.


The circular part is the pivot point, the connector goes in the slot. Not a stupid question, we all have to learn something about something new at some point in time. That's what this place is for, ask away.


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

Ok so I placed the connector as such below and. The machine did not die right away so think I'm on the right track but it still didn't seem was running in full throttle/strong (kinda running weak I think), I moved the slot back and forth to see if it would power the machine strong but then turned off. Is there a throttle adjuster I would need to mess with?


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

The would both need to go into the end of that slot. You have to turn/bend the heavy rod to fit it. It takes a bit of effort.

With that being said I still definitely think its best to go back to your original carb. I think that will solve your problems if you can clean it up well.


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

I just tried to run it again and started strong but then died...this time some gas leaked by the filter housing. Also now when I tried to reverse the mower it makes a wrenching sound, did I brake something? Do I have the choke/throttle correct on this carb as listed below? (Perhaps I'm messing with throttle when I don't need to be?


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## cwrx82 (Sep 16, 2018)

ISU said:


> I just tried to run it again and started strong but then died...this time some gas leaked by the filter housing. Also now when I tried to reverse the mower it makes a wrenching sound, did I brake something? Do I have the choke/throttle correct on this carb as listed below? (Perhaps I'm messing with throttle when I don't need to be?


Did you mess with the float in the carb bowl? It may not be sitting in there correctly and causing the fuel to leak like that since the float isn't cutting off the flow.


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

SGrabs33 said:


> The would both need to go into the end of that slot. You have to turn/bend the heavy rod to fit it. It takes a bit of effort.
> 
> With that being said I still definitely think its best to go back to your original carb. I think that will solve your problems if you can clean it up well.


I'll with that a try next.


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

cwrx82 said:


> ISU said:
> 
> 
> > I just tried to run it again and started strong but then died...this time some gas leaked by the filter housing. Also now when I tried to reverse the mower it makes a wrenching sound, did I brake something? Do I have the choke/throttle correct on this carb as listed below? (Perhaps I'm messing with throttle when I don't need to be?
> ...


Only think I messed with was what I think to be the choke and the throttle.


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## TN Hawkeye (May 7, 2018)

ISU said:


> Also no serial # on back of the frame...it basically gone. And no idea what year this unit is to lookup parts.


It looks like the number was stamped on. Could you pop the plate off and look at the back side to see if it pressed a reverse image of the number?


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## cwrx82 (Sep 16, 2018)

@ISU if you still have the Kawasaki carb that came on it, I'd try cleaning it up and using that. Take the bowl off, just be careful with the float and spring inside the bowl and put them back correctly. Also, take out the jet and make sure it's not clogged or gummed up.


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

cwrx82 said:


> @ISU if you still have the Kawasaki carb that came on it, I'd try cleaning it up and using that. Take the bowl off, just be careful with the float and spring inside the bowl and put them back correctly. Also, take out the jet and make sure it's not clogged or gummed up.


This is all I did and they work great. I didn't even take out the jet because it was not coming lose easily and I didn't want to strip it. The I just soaked them in the Gunk carb cleaner for 12-36 hours and cleaned out all of the holes with the wire from a twisty-tie.

Here is the link to the carb diagram.


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## SGrabs33 (Feb 13, 2017)

TN Hawkeye said:


> ISU said:
> 
> 
> > Also no serial # on back of the frame...it basically gone. And no idea what year this unit is to lookup parts.
> ...


This is a great idea!


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

I'll pick up some carb cleaner tonight and will follow up once I reinstall the original one. Any idea about the wrenching noise when I move the mower in reverse? It began to do it after the gas leak incident...wondering now if I broke something on the mower trying to get it going. I only messed with the throttle and choke.


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## cwrx82 (Sep 16, 2018)

ISU said:


> I'll pick up some carb cleaner tonight and will follow up once I reinstall the original one. Any idea about the wrenching noise when I move the mower in reverse? It began to do it after the gas leak incident...wondering now if I broke something on the mower trying to get it going. I only messed with the throttle and choke.


Make sure the reel is not engaged down by the front, not the handlebars. If the reel is engaged it's probably rubbing on the bedknife. Also, it could be the drum dragging on the concrete. Hard to tell without being able to hear it.


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

Turns out the wrenching noise is coming from this section highlighted below...does it need to be greased? Again, it just started to make such noise out of nowhere. I did check to make sure the reel was not engaged at bottom lever (disengaged).


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## cwrx82 (Sep 16, 2018)

ISU said:


> Turns out the wrenching noise is coming from this section highlighted below...does it need to be greased? Again, it just started to make such noise out of nowhere. I did check to make sure the reel was not engaged at bottom lever (disengaged).


Open up the part that says GreensMaster 1000 on it and see if there are any signs of what's making the noise in there. It'll open by using that knob on the cover.


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

So I caved and just dropped her off at the shop to get serviced and take care of the carb problem...last night I realized I only had the top part of the original carb so would have needed to order new carb parts. Figured not being familiar with this thing yet the mower would sit in garage all season so decided to pay to get it up/running. Praying this thing won't need much of anything replaced to get it running and cutting soon, there goes $300 to service it completely (new bed knife, reel sharpened, greased up, etc).


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## cwrx82 (Sep 16, 2018)

ISU said:


> So I caved and just dropped her off at the shop to get serviced and take care of the carb problem...last night I realized I only had the top part of the original carb so would have needed to order new carb parts. Figured not being familiar with this thing yet the mower would sit in garage all season so decided to pay to get it up/running. Praying this thing won't need much of anything replaced to get it running and cutting soon, there goes $300 to service it completely (new bed knife, reel sharpened, greased up, etc).


What are they going to do with the carb? If that price includes replacing the carb as well, then that's a steal of a price.


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

Not sure about extra cost regarding the carb yet, the $300 price was just to service the unit, anything else needed to be done to get the unit running good would be extra. Service manager said they would call me prior to fixing anything wrong with the mower once they look at it, I will know how much more cash it would be at that point. I did confirm they do trade ins/ purchase used equipment and currently have a few newer units (mostly gm 1600 or flex 21) so depending on how much I would need to put into my mower this could be an option to look at vs dropping a lot of cash upfront to get mine going. Just hoping the carb issue and the new noise (wrenching/grinding noise issue when moving it backwards) is nothing major.


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## zeus201 (Aug 30, 2017)

ISU said:


> Not sure about extra cost regarding the carb yet, the $300 price was just to service the unit, anything else needed to be done to get the unit running good would be extra. Service manager said they would call me prior to fixing anything wrong with the mower once they look at it, I will know how much more cash it would be at that point. I did confirm they do trade ins/ purchase used equipment and currently have a few newer units (mostly gm 1600 or flex 21) so depending on how much I would need to put into my mower this could be an option to look at vs dropping a lot of cash upfront to get mine going. Just hoping the carb issue and the new noise (wrenching/grinding noise issue when moving it backwards) is nothing major.


What did you end up paying for it?

Flex21s are nice but the maximum HOC in "stock" form is quite limited (under 0.50" or less IIRC) unless you get the high HOC kit. If you haven't already, check out JD 220e-cuts. Still have the floating cutting head like the Flex but maximum HOC can above 1". I was going to get one of those but ended going the Baroness route instead.


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

zeus201 said:


> ISU said:
> 
> 
> > Not sure about extra cost regarding the carb yet, the $300 price was just to service the unit, anything else needed to be done to get the unit running good would be extra. Service manager said they would call me prior to fixing anything wrong with the mower once they look at it, I will know how much more cash it would be at that point. I did confirm they do trade ins/ purchase used equipment and currently have a few newer units (mostly gm 1600 or flex 21) so depending on how much I would need to put into my mower this could be an option to look at vs dropping a lot of cash upfront to get mine going. Just hoping the carb issue and the new noise (wrenching/grinding noise issue when moving it backwards) is nothing major.
> ...


I paid $200 for it. Yeah the flex21 would not be ideal for me due to the limited HOC. Their website does. Have another gm 1000 listed for $500 "as is" with no wheels or basket (if I recall right) so they would still need to service it which will add additional cost. Thinking sticking with mine might be best option, we'll see if that holds true once they contract me with all the info on what mine will need to get done. The shop I took it to it's MTI locate in grimes, not sure if you know the place.


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## BlackOut (May 24, 2019)

@isu so what became of the gm1000?


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

Well after a month I found out today how much the shop will charge me to get it fully serviced and ready to cut....they quote me $600-$700 which is more I'm willing to spend on it. And was hoping would cut over an inch but half inch is the max. I'm going have to sell it and see if I can recoup what I paid.


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## Dooman185 (Jul 6, 2018)

Did they tell you what was making all the noise in the front on the unit?


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

Dooman185 said:


> Did they tell you what was making all the noise in the front on the unit?


No the service manager never really went into much details other than letting me know the unit ran but needed work done (correct carb put on, cables hooked up right, reel sharpened, new bedknife) and quoted $600-$700 to get it up and running.

I ended up with a 26" Baroness in mint condition so it worked out good for me.😁


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## krusej23 (May 8, 2018)

@ISU What shop did you take this to?


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## ISU (May 8, 2019)

I took it to the MTI location in Grimes.



krusej23 said:


> @ISU What shop did you take this to?


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