# Soil Test Results



## SoilSecrets (Apr 12, 2019)

Hello,

I just received my soil test results from Soil Savvy and it show my PH is low, potassium is low but calcium and magnesium is high. Most micros are high. Can I put lime down or JG Magical safely since calcium and magnesium are high already?

I had purchased soil savvy test kit before learning about Spectrum Analytics on J. Perry's lawncology soil series so I can't provide a CEC and organic matter content.

Since potassium is low I put down some Sustane 18-1-8 along with some LESCO Carbon Pro L with MobilX soil amendment. Any other thoughts on what to do next.


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## SoilSecrets (Apr 12, 2019)

This is a follow up to an early July post when I used Soil Saavy to analyze my soil. I decided to do a second test using Rutgers Univ. Soil Laboratory. Attached are the results. I welcome constructive recommendations and whether forum experts agree with the fertilizer ratio recommendations.

I had a good conversation with the Ph.D. who runs the soil laboratory. One of the general recommendations was make certain to work compost into the soil to help maintain healthy organic matter. I was thinking of getting Mirimichi Green CarbonizPN 50% compost / 50% bio char.

I had overseeded last year early September and by mid to late November the new grass was turning yellow and dying. I had applied Clarus Screaming Green late Oct. as a final feet application.

Thoughts...


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

You should get @Ridgerunner's input. He's probably avoiding this thread because it started off with Soil Savvy, which he just doesn't bother with. But he could have something useful to say about the Rutger's analysis. I was struck with the difference in pH between Soil Savvy and Rutgers. I would trust Rutgers much more to have an accurate reading.

They are advising you to avoid compost around the ornamentals because it could raise pH. They also say you are high in organic matter for a sandy loam. So the compost seems to be optional for the lawn, keep it away from the bushes. I'm not familiar with the product you mention but it seems fine to me.

I would quibble with the fertilizer equally divided in spring and fall. I would go light in the spring and heavy in the fall, maybe August, September, and October. And light applications in spring, like 1/2 lb/1000 sq ft of nitrogen.

Ridgerunner may have something to say about the boron. The fertilizer with nitrogen, no phosphorus, and some potassium seems on target.

Why do you think your grass died last November?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

The difference in pH with soil savvy is drastic. There is also a difference between iron and mn.

Overall, a maintenance strategy. Nitrogen with some K to maintain the levels. The P is very high. I would avoid biosolids(Milo). Did you ever apply lime or gypsum to this lawn?


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## SoilSecrets (Apr 12, 2019)

Thanks for the suggestions. I was struggling with PH last year and had been applying Jonathan Green Magical at double rate according to the label until July because my SoilSaavy test last year indicated an acidic soil (5.0 ph). I was thinking the ph might have dropped again last year causing the soil to become more acidic leading to the grass dying off.

I don't use JG any longer. I use pelletized lime by Cal Pro Turf. I have been treating the soil with Humic 12 applications for the last several months as well so I suppose that helped. The Rutgers test result said not to lime anymore this year so I'll follow the recommendation.


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## SoilSecrets (Apr 12, 2019)

I will be overseeding in the next two weeks. I'll apply some Tenacity but with the Rutgers fertilizer ratio recommendations its left me puzzled because I only have Matt Martin's Carbon X which is a 24-0-4, a bag of Sustane 18-1-8 and Mirimich Green 3-2-3 - the latter is labeled for trees and shrubs.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

They're recommending 3 lb of N/1000 sq ft with a fertilizer with 3-0-1 ratio so they're recommending 1 lb of K/1000 sq ft. The 24-0-4 fertilizer used at 4 lb/1000 sq ft will give you .96 lb of N/1000 sq ft and .16 lb of K/1000 sq ft. The 18-1-8 fertilizer used at 5.5 lb/1000 sq ft will give you .99 lb/1000 sq ft of N and .44 lb of K/1000 sq ft. So two applications of Sustane and one application of Carbon X will give you .44 +.44 + .16= 1.04 lb of K/000 sq ft.


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## SoilSecrets (Apr 12, 2019)

Thank you


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

@SoilSecrets Other than phosphorous and potassium, the nutrients are in good shape and shouldn't be creating any turf impediment. Boron is at the lower end of the range (0.4/0.5-1.5) but at 0.6 ppm should be plenty sufficient as the range was developed for crops and turf uses about 25% of B that crops need.
Phosphorous is at 133 ppm. That's quite high. Phosphorous easily combines with cations, both major and micro nutrients, creating compound forms that make both the P and the cation (Fe, Ca, etc) unavailable for the plant. In addition at some point above 100 ppm of P, the plant rejects root inoculation by mycorrhizal fungi which help solubolize P, carry other nutrients including N and micros, and may aid in moving water to the roots for plant uptake. Avoid adding P until levels fall below 50 or between 26-54.
Potassium is 75 ppm. Recommended levels for loams is 75-175 and 50-115ish for sands. Greater than 110 ppm (e.g. 150-200) is recommended. At a CEC of 8.6, your soil is somewhere on the sandy side of in between. You might target 110-150 ppm.
As a general rule of thumb, Turf grasses use between 0.5 and 1 lb of K for every pound of N. Cool season grasses use the lower 0.5lb amount. Theoretically, to maintain current levels of K, you would want to use a 2-0-1, like the Sustane 18-1-8 (except for the P in it doesn't thrill me). Using a 1-0-1 for a short period (for a year), would help build up some reserve K (every pound of K2O applied can add 18ppm, less the amount used by the grass), then you could return to using a 2-0-1 for regular maintenance feedings to maintain levels.
Use up the Sustane and CX you have to finish up the year. Avoid the Mirimich Green 3-2-3 for the lawn--way too much P. Then shop around to see if you can find a 2-0-1 (or close) and a 15-0-15 for K building or, better yet, if you can find SOP, combining that with 46-0-0 or 21-0-0 will give you real flexibility to get the N and K you want while avoiding P. Hope that is of some guidance.


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## SoilSecrets (Apr 12, 2019)

Thank you. The comments and recommendations are much appreciated. I'll have to see if I can source the additional appropriate fertilizer.


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