# Spring/Summer plan for recently Grub infested yard



## cleveille21 (Oct 2, 2018)

Hello all,

I posted here last fall once I realized my lawn was just about dead due to grubs (I had *just* reseeded everything the fall prior so it was all fresh tender roots for the grubby bastids...).

Anyways, now I'm trying to come up with my plan for the spring/summer. Essentially I'm trying to figure out the timing of my grub chemicals. Since I put the 24-hr killer the first week of October I'm not sure if I got all of the grubs. Should I put down another 24-hr grub killer sometime in the April/May timeframe? I'm not sure what grubs were able to survive and when they're going to come up and start feeding again.

I am definitely going to put a grub preventer down this year. I live in Massachusetts so I'm trying to figure out when to put the preventer down. Is the last week of May/first week of June the recommended time?

Also, what's the rough air temperature for when grass seed will germinate? I have a couple more spots to seed this spring and I wanted to get an early start as I've tended to have a hard time seeding in the spring. Would waiting for highs of 65 and lows of 40ish be a good guide?

*In summary....*
1) Should I put second treatment of dylox down on my yard this year and WHEN should I do it if so?
2) When is the best time to put down Grub Preventer in Massachusetts?
3) When do you recommend spring seeding?

I hope these aren't dumb questions, you all helped out last fall so I figured I'd come back here again! I'll take any advice I can get!!


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## NikeFace (Feb 14, 2018)

I'm in a similar situation and I'm also in MA.

From researching this site, my plan is to apply Bayer Season Long or GrubEx in spring as soon as the turf greens up.

In terms of seeding, it's possible but not easy to do in the spring. The fall is ideal. That said, I also plan on seeding a few small spots in the spring but I'll have realistic expectations as to the odds of it surviving our hot dry summers. Seed and baby grass are hard to keep watered throughout spring and summer.

Hopefully the experts chime in on the grub control because I could use more knowledge as well.


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## MassHole (Jun 27, 2018)

Western Mass here. I use Grub Ex once a year, never had an issue. Here's my past application dates:
2016 - June 4
2017 - June 8
2018 - June 11


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## Scagfreedom48z+ (Oct 6, 2018)

Also in mass. Would anyone recommend putting down dylox and imidacloprid at the same to get curative and preventative measures, for sod webworm,cinch bugs and grub?

I have both in a large quantity from a local sale so being wasteful is much of an issues


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## Chris LI (Oct 26, 2018)

MassHole said:


> Western Mass here. I use Grub Ex once a year, never had an issue. Here's my past application dates:
> 2016 - June 4
> 2017 - June 8
> 2018 - June 11


@cleveille21

This timing sounds very reasonable. I was always taught to apply grub treatment around Father's Day, in my area. Of course, you should follow the labeled directions.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

MSU recommends chlorantraniliprole at green up.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

As soon as the snow melts, soil thaws, and everything dries out (for Chlorantraniliprole).


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## Hoosier (Jun 12, 2018)

One of the obviously things to mention with this is that the grub treatment needs to be watered in very well, and ideally immediately after applying. I say obviously, but this apparently wasn't obvious to me, as I did my treatment last year and still had a ton of damage to fix in the fall.

As g-man mentioned, chlorantraniliprole is the treatment of choice due to being less harmful to bees, from what I remember reading. I have only found this in Scott's GrubEx and Acelpryn, but no generic versions yet. For 3/4 of an acre (not sure if that's all turf or the size of the whole lot with the house), the preventative rate will probably run you around $100-120, and should only need to be done annually.

Imidacloprid is off patent, and a $50 bag of Quali-pro Imidacloprid will treat 16,000 square feet. I'm in the transition zone and plan to get mine down around the 1st/2nd week of June.

Lastly, in terms of seeding bare spots, my understanding is that the sweet spot for fescue is 55-75 degrees. For spring seeding, you'd want to do this as early as possible in hopes that it will survive the summer. If evening temps drop into the 40s, you should still be ok, assuming the soil temp is warm enough.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

Chris LI said:


> MassHole said:
> 
> 
> > Western Mass here. I use Grub Ex once a year, never had an issue. Here's my past application dates:
> ...


You guys are going to want to up that by a month or two if using Grubex/Acelepryn.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

NikeFace said:


> From researching this site, my plan is to apply Bayer Season Long or GrubEx in spring as soon as the turf greens up.


As of last year, Bayer was Imidacloprid, so June/July is the ideal time depending on area. Maybe May down South.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

Hoosier said:


> As g-man mentioned, chlorantraniliprole is the treatment of choice due to being less harmful to bees, from what I remember reading. I have only found this in Scott's GrubEx and Acelpryn, but no generic versions yet.


No generics yet but someone mentioned in the next few years they should be coming.


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## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

Well... you could use altriset termiticide.... :wink:


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## Scagfreedom48z+ (Oct 6, 2018)

Would anyone recommend putting down dylox and imidacloprid at the same to get curative and preventative measures, for sod webworm,cinch bugs and grub?


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

Scagfreedom48z+ said:


> Would anyone recommend putting down dylox and imidacloprid at the same to get curative and preventative measures, for sod webworm,cinch bugs and grub?


Only if you need both. But I could have sworn Bayer had a product that had that combo. Not sure, since they don't sell it here anymore due to regulations.


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## Delmarva Keith (May 12, 2018)

Scagfreedom48z+ said:


> Would anyone recommend putting down dylox and imidacloprid at the same to get curative and preventative measures, for sod webworm,cinch bugs and grub?


Old big grubs coming up to feed and then pupate can be zapped with Dylox. New tiny grubs after emergence and egg lay can be zapped with imidacloparid. Timing would be different.

I can't seem to find a definitive soil temp for when the big grubs start to come up to feed from their winter deep soil hideouts, other than "Spring" or "before the end of "May" (when they stop feeding and pupate). You might want to actually check to find grubs and when you see them, time to apply the Dylox. Aside from that, maybe early to mid-April as a compromise date?

For new grub egg lay and application of imidacloparid, your university extension or a local GDD tracker website can give good dates, but conventional wisdom is June/July time frame.


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## cleveille21 (Oct 2, 2018)

Thank you all for the replies!!

So it seems like the consensus is the first week of June for the grub preventer (day before it rains).

Monitor the yard in April/May and monitor the yard for grubs and once they appear put down some dylox (day before it rains) to kill any remaining grubs from last fall.

And lastly... wait for ovenight lows to remain above 40, at that point it should be a good time to seed. Right now it's looking like it'd mean the last week of April/first week of May. I bought an automated 4 zone timer and that thing was a life saver last fall. I couldn't recommend one of those enough!!!

The yard is 3/4 of turf (I'll count dirt and crabgrass right now haha). It's a little over an acre including everything but I have some woods and a large ranch/wide driveway. It's quite a bit to try and take care of. Especially when you have to reseed a year after a complete yard renovation. Now I just need to buy a tow-behind spreader for my mower. Putting 600lbs of milo down in a 35 lb spreader is gonna kill me this year :lol: :shock:


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## MassHole (Jun 27, 2018)

cleveille21 said:


> And lastly... wait for ovenight lows to remain above 40, at that point it should be a good time to seed. Right now it's looking like it'd mean the last week of April/first week of May.


I hope not, I was hoping to seed first week of April in Western Mass to hit the spots that didn't germinate last fall. Another month would suck


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## Chris LI (Oct 26, 2018)

MassHole said:


> cleveille21 said:
> 
> 
> > And lastly... wait for ovenight lows to remain above 40, at that point it should be a good time to seed. Right now it's looking like it'd mean the last week of April/first week of May.
> ...


You don't need to wait to drop seed. I would drop it right now. Many of us dormant seed in late winter (February is typically the best month, according to research). I dropped mine sometime in mid January, so I didn't miss the window, because I get busy during February. The seed will germinate naturally when soil temperatures are suitable. The only concern is if a severe cold snap occurs after germination and kills the tender seedlings. It's worth it IMHO, because it's important to develop the roots as much as possible before the summer heat/ drought hits. You can always reseed dead spots.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

Why is everyone still targeting June and July for Chlorantraniliprole? That is flat out too late.


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