# DIY home irrigation - design & feedback



## coloradom1212 (Aug 3, 2021)

I've been working on a sprinkler design for our house and wanted to see if you all had feedback or suggestions. I've installed the backflow preventer already (teed off of the 3/4" copper mainline in the house to a 1" pipe and 1" PVB). Unfortunately, I have low pressure at my house (municipal water) - I have measured between 44-52 PSI static pressure and was most recently measuring 44 PSI off the backflow with ~12 GPM flow.

I am planning to use MP Rotators with PRS40 bodies. I know my pressure is pretty low, does that sound like it will work vs. the PRS30 bodies? I also know the upper right left of the backyard isn't getting great coverage, any suggestions on how to tweak that area?

Thanks in advance


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

Nice job!
I would bring that red 3H head to split that gap evenly between the 2Q & 1-3Q heads. Possibly same for the blue 2H head too (if you can handle some overspray on that house corner).

One thought about the PRS heads... you may be able to get away with non-regulated heads with your pressure! Those are 1/4 the price.


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## coloradom1212 (Aug 3, 2021)

Thanks! Unfortunately I am in Colorado which are requiring pressure regulating heads for all new sales.


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## Glen_Cove_5511 (Jun 13, 2020)

I'm doing the same thing right now. Designing the layout for my lawn. Backflow gets installed on the 9th. What did you use to draw your plan? I'd really like to find something that will allow me to see coverage like that!


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## coloradom1212 (Aug 3, 2021)

I used the free Rainbird design service to get an initial idea. I wasn't happy with how they laid out the zones and some of the assumptions they made but it was helpful for head placement.


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## Glen_Cove_5511 (Jun 13, 2020)

So that's a drawing they did, not something you did with an online tool or something?


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## coloradom1212 (Aug 3, 2021)

Correct - I just took their drawing and overlaid the circles on top of it with my specific labeling


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

I would think the safer bet would be to go with PRS30 heads as opposed to PRS40. I have regulated heads in my system, but my pressure is much higher. I'm not sure if you'd be able to hold 40psi the entire run, once you start getting load on the system.

@Ware knows a lot about the regulated heads.


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## coloradom1212 (Aug 3, 2021)

Amoo316 said:


> I would think the safer bet would be to go with PRS30 heads as opposed to PRS40. I have regulated heads in my system, but my pressure is much higher. I'm not sure if you'd be able to hold 40psi the entire run, once you start getting load on the system.


Thanks @Amoo316 I wasn't sure if there was any downside to PRS40 in the case where I have between 30-40 PSI, which is I think where I would land without pressure regulation. With my layout, I might benefit from getting a bit longer throw and dialing back if needed.


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

I THINK you'll get more consistent performance if you go the PRS30 route including end of run throw distance, again though, I would trust Ware's opinion on that over mine. I just think 44PSI and 12GPM is cutting it awfully close right at the backflow valve.


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## coloradom1212 (Aug 3, 2021)

One other question I had is if there is an outsized benefit to go with a 6" spray body. The cost is significantly different so I would prefer to go with the 4" unless that will significantly underperform or cause issues. Seems like 4" is really common here for installs, so I am leaning towards the 4".


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## Amoo316 (Jul 8, 2021)

Unless you have massive obstacles you're trying to throw over top of, close to the heads, I don't see any reason to put 6" in that small of a location.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

@Amoo316 has a great suggestion with the prs30 heads, since 12' radii seem to be a common denominator in your layout. You're putting in more upfront labor & expense but I think it'll give you the ultimate in efficiency & uniformity. Here's a quick idea:


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

coloradom1212 said:


> One other question I had is if there is an outsized benefit to go with a 6" spray body. The cost is significantly different so I would prefer to go with the 4" unless that will significantly underperform or cause issues. Seems like 4" is really common here for installs, so I am leaning towards the 4".


I have TTTF that I maintain at 4" plus during the summertime and could've used the 6" heads, but if you're mowing lower than that there's no need to spend that extra $. If anything set your heads up 1" out of the ground, esp the perimeter ones that can be placed in the landscape beds. That's what I'm having to do, pull them up a bit as they settle.


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## coloradom1212 (Aug 3, 2021)

corneliani said:


> @Amoo316 has a great suggestion with the prs30 heads, since 12' radii seem to be a common denominator in your layout. You're putting in more upfront labor & expense but I think it'll give you the ultimate in efficiency & uniformity.


This is a really thoughtful suggestion, thanks for spending the time on this. Can you explain the optional MP2000 in the corner? Is that in replacement for the MP1000 to get it to reach the head above it? Also, do I need to think about zones any differently than I had in the original layout from a pressure/layout perspective (assuming the zone flow stays below my design flow)?


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

Design/layout is as much art as science because you need to take things such as sun/shade exposure, topology, soil type, etc into account. Coupled with the reality that no yard fits the perfect radius of a sprinkler head you have to use these other factors to bias towards a leaner or heavier grouping. To that end there's flexibility as to where you direct the water and how much and still stay within an acceptable efficiency percentage.

That MP2000 is such a decision. since you need a 20' throw to reach the other head. Doing so oversupplies on the side of the house though, so this is where your site knowledge comes into play. Is this a low spot? Then you don't want to flood the area even more. Is this a high spot in full sun? Maybe extra water may be necessary. That's kind of the thinking process I have, and it pertains to the other 'floating' type heads where you're not anchored down to a set location or spacing. I hope this makes sense.


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## burntfire (Dec 10, 2020)

I personally would stick with one body type vs mix and matching as it'll throw different precip rates down. I do however like @corneliani layout better than the RB layout.

Also your 2nd layout will have a dry spot in the bottom right corner at the 3Q nozzle.

Did you post on reddit? I swear I've seen this layout.


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## coloradom1212 (Aug 3, 2021)

burntfire said:


> Did you post on reddit? I swear I've seen this layout.


Yes, I did post there also. I'll have to keep an eye on the corner you mention, it wouldn't be too hard to add a head if needed.

I did the install this weekend and following up with an update on how it went. All sprinkler heads are popping with throws generally as planned and no leaks, so really happy about that! Thank you here to all of the help.


To save the grass, I rented a sod cutter where I wanted to dig the trenches. If I did this again, I would consider just trenching and buying sod to cut into strips since I didn't have too many trenches and area to cover

I rented the smallest trencher which was a manual 18" and that was A LOT of work. I would definitely pay more for a better trencher next time that moves on its own

I got worried at first when flushing the sprinkler lines since all of the heads weren't popping. I have pretty low pressure, so I think it was just due to a higher flow rate with the flush nozzles on, once the rotator nozzles were on, it was fine

To save time, I used Blu-Lock fittings and the 1/2" swing pipe and that worked great. Totally worth the additional cost for the ease/time savings given I'm only doing this once. I also used the Action Manifold system for my two manifolds and that worked great as well.


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