# TNEX is the worst



## RLaschober (Mar 24, 2019)

This is my first year using TNEX And I can't figure out why I am not having the same results as you all. Every time I apply my yard becomes sickly yellow/brown and this time around seems like some of it will be dead for rest of year. Here are some before and after pictures after applying at about 0.2 to 0.25 ounces per thousand square feet. What am I doing wrong? I have seen so many folks rave about this product that I really wanted to work. My grass always looks better after the month after an application when the product wears off. I do have another area of my lawn that has done OK with the product (browns slightly but doesn't go dormant. Definitely suppresses vertical growth)


Before (sorry couldn't find a better picture)


10 days after app


Closer up


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## Wax0589 (Jun 11, 2020)

Are you fertilizing as well?


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## anthonybilotta (Aug 11, 2018)

Do you apply it with any nitrogen or iron ?

Is your sprayer calibrated ?


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## Easyluck (Feb 5, 2019)

Could it be that your application intervals are spaced too far apart? I've noticed bronzing when I reapply during the rebound stage, but not when keeping it under 250 GDD.


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## Jimefam (Jun 22, 2018)

Hmmm something is clearly off and it isnt the Tnex. I apply at twice the rate you do and I dont wait a month for next application. Here is my yard 3 days after applying.


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## RLaschober (Mar 24, 2019)

Fertilizing 1lb N/mo
Applying TNEX with iron (Trying to improve that like green you see in first photo!)

It has definitely been an extended time since last TNEX app. I applied in May and June in this area and then did not in July. It's hard to want to apply again when the yard still looks like this . I'm at GDD 194 from this 7/27/20 TNEX app so I am weary about applying again in the near future with these results. But maybe that is my problem


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## Jimefam (Jun 22, 2018)

RLaschober said:


> Fertilizing 1lb N/mo
> Applying TNEX with iron (Trying to improve that like green you see in first photo!)
> 
> It has definitely been an extended time since last TNEX app. I applied in May and June in this area and then did not in July. It's hard to want to apply again when the yard still looks like this . I'm at GDD 194 from this 7/27/20 TNEX app so I am weary about applying again in the near future with these results. But maybe that is my problem


Greenkeeper says my regulation is up tomorrow which means i am spraying in about 30 mins from now. I very rarely let it come out of regulation and never by choice just like if I go on vacation or something. However even when i have let it come out of regulation it never has looked bad. Any chance your applying way more then you think you are? Could the tnex be very old or been in high heat? I think the Tnex is the second best thing I do for the lawn besides the XGRN.


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## Sbcgenii (May 13, 2018)

So you applied 1 shot glass worth of Tnex and it did that? You have other issues. Have you applied any other herbicides/fungicides? I don't see that kind of damage in the other parts of your yard.


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## RLaschober (Mar 24, 2019)

Hearing experiences like yours make me want to keep with this product! I bought it in April from domyown.com. Kept in the garage in Texas so it is definitely warmer in there. I'm pretty positive I measured accurately. Maybe I need to drop the rate down and just work my way up as the grass tolerates.

Would you really apply again in a week or so though with the grass looking like this? Or maybe I should just abandon PGR ship for this year and try again at a lower rate next year


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## Redtwin (Feb 9, 2019)

I don't think T-Nex is the problem; I've never seen it do that. Double- and triple-check your rate and application process. Also, not letting it come out of rebound helps as mentioned above but what you have is not simple bronzing. I'm not sure going to a lower rate will help. .2oz/1000sf is pretty low already. I see the garden hose running across your lawn. What is your irrigation rate and frequency? Could it be that you started T-Nex right at the time of year it was starting to get hot and your grass needed more water? Over the long term T-Nex improves roots but the first season you may still have to baby in the super hot months. I recommend a tuna can challenge.


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## RLaschober (Mar 24, 2019)

That area is a localized dry spot but I had zero issues until applying. No irrigation so I use a watering tractor that gets 0.75 inches/wk per tuna can test. (That's rubbing it every other day, hard to do much more). Maybe it was a perfect storm with 100 degree temps, localized dry spot, and then a tnex app? I totally hear you all on fungus concerns- this has just happened now 3times after applying tnex in this area. Rest of yard looks OK. But still sickly


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## RLaschober (Mar 24, 2019)

Same area one day before tnex


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## Jimefam (Jun 22, 2018)

RLaschober said:


> Hearing experiences like yours make me want to keep with this product! I bought it in April from domyown.com. Kept in the garage in Texas so it is definitely warmer in there. I'm pretty positive I measured accurately. Maybe I need to drop the rate down and just work my way up as the grass tolerates.
> 
> Would you really apply again in a week or so though with the grass looking like this? Or maybe I should just abandon PGR ship for this year and try again at a lower rate next year


Thing is I dont see Tnex doing that to your grass so I dont think I would factor it in to whether I apply or not. Maybe stop everything and just stick to water and fert til its better then add in one thing at a time. But i have applied up to 1oz/1k of tnex and just got some light bronzing.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

I agree with @Redtwin, I don't think it's a TNex issue at all and looks more like a water/fertilizer problem to me. I do have several questions though that may help us get to the bottom of this.

1. How often are you watering/How much rain have you had?
2. What kind of sprinklers do you have?
3. What have you fertilized with?
4. Is the whole backyard 7,000 sq/ft? if not then how big is it?
5. What did you use to apply the T-Nex?
6. What is the application rate of the sprayer you are using? (gallons/1,000 sq/ft)
7. Does the front yard look like the backyard?

There may be more questions to follow after we get some answers but the more we know the better we can help.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

I see that you just posted so that will answer some of the questions I had. I am also wondering how often are you mowing and at what HOC are you at?


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## RLaschober (Mar 24, 2019)

Thanks Mightyquinn-figured I'd still answer questions so they are all in one place.

1. Little rain over last month. Watering 0.25inches every other day
2. Lawn watering tractor 
3. Milorganite monthly at Nitrogen rate of 1 lb/1000sqpft
4. Back yard is 3500sqft
5. Field King backpack sprayer-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AYHKUO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. with 3 nozzle boom wand https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Y850A2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
6. 0.85gal/1000sqft
7. Front yard is in pictures above. Not as bad. but still doesn't look great.

Mowing every 5-7 days at 1.25" using Honda HRX 217VKA rotary mower


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## SumBeach35 (Jul 11, 2019)

My suggestion would be to try to spray iron when spraying Tnex and other PGR's. you can find FEature in the marketplace and the link in my signature. This can help mitigate some of the yellowing the the PGR will cause. I would also try to find another N source, Milo needs to be broken down to become available and that isnt something you can control. Putting down 0.1-0.2 lb/N/K from AMS or Urea would be beneficial. Id also suggest doing a tuna can challenge considering the lawn watering tractor.


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## Easyluck (Feb 5, 2019)

I couldn't find your soil test, but maybe you need some potassium. No potassium in milo. If your mulching clippings then your getting some but if your bagging then maybe your potassium deficient after 2 two years of milo.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Some close up photos of the damaged leaf blades would be helpful.


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## RLaschober (Mar 24, 2019)

Potassium is an issue. See soil test below. After some input from others previously I will applying K in september: Potassium Sulfate 2lb/1000sqft


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

I think you maybe mowing too low especially for only mowing every 5-7 days. I think you should raise your mower up a notch and see if that helps.

I'm also wondering if you might have bugs or grubs in the lawn causing the issue. Have you tried the soapy water test? Get a bucket and fill it with water and mix in some dish soap so you have a nice soapy water solution and pour it over one of the troubled areas and wait a minute or two and you should see some bugs or grubs come to the surface if there are any in there. You want to pour the whole bucket in one spot so it will flush them out.

So you are putting 17lbs/M(1,000 sq/ft) down a month of Milorganite? Over 100 lbs over the whole lawn?


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## LoveMyLawn (Oct 14, 2019)

I don't think it's the TNex either. I'm 75 miles from you and I'm spraying 0.125oz every 2 weeks with no issues. I was advised to back my N apps down to 1/2lb/k per month while on a PGR program. Which I have. I also spray Humic12 and RGS, Feature at the same time and I'm impressed with the results.

I have a couple buddies that use Milor. And they just aren't getting great results. Honestly I haven't seen too many TX lawns getting that great of results using it, specially with zero K in it.. I'm sure there are some though. I don't have a doubt you'll get this figured out and be rocking in no time.


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## RLaschober (Mar 24, 2019)

Here are two pictures of the problem area. I did the soapy water bug testa d no bugs/grubs. My lawn is actually 8,000 sqft (need to update profile) And so I put down just a tad bit more to make it 3 50pound bags. I have been pretty pleased with the milorganite. Also really like not having to worry about the burn here in Texas in the summer without an irrigation system. Thanks for all the help y'all


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## cldrunner (May 14, 2019)

@RLaschober Maybe the iron is burning your lawn. I think most people wash it off the next morning with their sprinklers.


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## ABC123 (Jul 14, 2017)

Magnesium is low too, find and apply 2lb epsom per/k per month.

Magnesium (Mg)

Magnesium promotes winter hardiness and early growth. It is essential for nitrogen metabolism and chlorophyll synthesis, and helps the turf to utilise iron and phosphate. Turf which is short of magnesium has yellowing drooping leaves. 
Magnesium interacts with both calcium and potassium so should be kept in balance with those. Ideally the calcium to magnesium ratio should be about 10:1.

https://www.pitchcare.com/news-media/the-role-of-nutrients-in-turfgrass-and-the-soil.html


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## wking (Jun 7, 2019)

RLaschober said:


> Here are two pictures of the problem area. I did the soapy water bug testa d no bugs/grubs. My lawn is actually 8,000 sqft (need to update profile) And so I put down just a tad bit more to make it 3 50pound bags. I have been pretty pleased with the milorganite. Also really like not having to worry about the burn here in Texas in the summer without an irrigation system. Thanks for all the help y'all


This really looks dry. I am betting there is something sub surface causing the yard to dry out faster in your problem area. try to stick a screw driver there, see if you hit rock, brick, block, construction material, etc. I know you are watering .25 every other day, but is there a way to water more in a single day without sprinklers? Have you tried additional water on those spots to see if that is the issue. I have a area that would look similar, but I know I need to water it everyday manually as it dries out way faster than the rest of my yard. This winter, I am digging it out as I cant get a screw driver in without a hammer.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

+1 @wking

Try taking a drill and your longest drill bit and drilling several holes in that area and then saturating that area with water from a garden hose and see how it responds.

You either have debris under those spots or just very dry and hydrophobic soil. I had a spot in my lawn that would dry out abnormally fast and I would water the hell out of it and it did nothing. Once I drilled a few holes in the area and watered it really good it perked back up in a day or two.


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## JRS 9572 (May 28, 2018)

Anyone else think the pH of 8.0 could be a problem? The exchange capacity on it looks really good though.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

JRS 9572 said:


> Anyone else think the pH of 8.0 could be a problem? The exchange capacity on it looks really good though.


I don't think the pH is the issue here as I have seen Bermuda grow in all kinds of conditions. I really don't worry about pH with Bermuda as it will grow in a wide range and generally you would only worry about it when you are trying to tweak your lawn and get it to the next level.


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## JRS 9572 (May 28, 2018)

Mightyquinn said:


> JRS 9572 said:
> 
> 
> > Anyone else think the pH of 8.0 could be a problem? The exchange capacity on it looks really good though.
> ...


Good to know. I was always told between 6 and 6.5. Of course I live in acid water and soils country around here. You'll never see 8.0 around here.


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

@RLaschober I've got a different view of the close-up pictures. That looks scalped to me. I have an area with no supplemental irrigation (easement/HOA issues) that is about 4000sf and kept with a rotary. Obviously the weather is similar to yours, so it typically will at least start to go dormant around this time of year every year. I cut this grass twice per week at 1.75" to ensure that it doesn't get scalped. I don't fertilize this grass much at all, but certainly not around these hot/drought times of the year. Milorganite does have a fast release nitrogen component, and you are putting it down very heavy in my opinion for someone who doesn't have in-ground irrigation. Putting down .25" every other day may be about all you can do with the tractor sprinkler, but we lose nearly that much water to evapotranspiration every day (on average) this time of year.

I believe your grass is under a perpetual state of stress from all of these conditions in combination with what looks like possibly heavy use (swingset, battery powered car, pool, etc). I would not be applying T-Nex this time of year based on all of these conditions unless you started applying early in the Spring.

I would start by trying to figure out how to put down .5" of water at once, probably by running the tractor sprinkler over the same areas twice in the same day. Moving hoses sucks, but think of it as a cycle/soak to help get the water deeper into the soil profile. Watering this way should allow you to only water each area twice per week. I also try to water the morning after I cut to provide immediate relief to the stressed grass.

I would back off of the Milo. Again, I like Milo, but half that rate would likely be enough for even highly maintained turf, so you should be able to back off enough to stop pushing growth while maintaining the green color Milo will give you.

I would also cut it at least twice a week. Try to put a schedule in place to cut every Saturday morning and every Tuesday evening (or something similar) as this will essentially be every 3.5 days. Cut it even if you don't think it needs it, because it probably does.

Try to limit traffic. I'm not telling you not to let the family enjoy the lawn, but it can be managed. For example, don't leave that pool on the lawn very long without moving it, try to get the family to spread around the fun where the same areas aren't being trampled repeatedly, etc.

Making those changes should help the grass significantly, and then using T-Nex might be able to offer you some benefit. T-Nex is a great tool, but not a miracle in a bottle. If all of the turf maintenance practices are in order, then it helps you to reduce clippings, improve drought, traffic and shade tolerance, and maintain a deeper green color with fewer inputs. You would see better benefit by starting your applications early in the year -- probably late April or early May in this area for most years. I have applied as early as late March depending on the year. Then continuing the PGR use in the summer can be beneficial.


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## rjw0283 (May 11, 2020)

RLaschober said:


> Potassium is an issue. See soil test below. After some input from others previously I will applying K in september: Potassium Sulfate 2lb/1000sqft


Why you waiting till September? I apply 2lbs per month via foliar and granular. And has helped alot of my dry spot issues. I also apply a wetting agent. Previous years my grass would start browning in spots 3 days of no water and 95 plus temps. This year I'm able to go 6-7 days before I see brown spots, it's unclear what product is more responsible (wetting agent or k) bit whatever it is... It's working.


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## RLaschober (Mar 24, 2019)

I appreciate it y'all. I drilled with a large drill bit and have been watering like crazy. I will raise HOC, continue to work to increase watering, and start adding K now.

So on the rest of the yard (Part of the yard that browned but nothing like this dry spot)- would you reapply TNEX? (I'm on GDD 257 today). If I raise to next HOC level I will be at 2"- do people really use PGR when moving at 2". Or should I call it for Tnex for this year. Spammage it sounds like your vote is call it on tnex for the year


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

@RLaschober yes, that would be my vote based on the info provided about your situation. Trinexapac-ethyl and other growth regulators work best on closely mown turfgrass, and I'm not sure you would see the right benefits of using it now. Besides, you have been happier with the lawns appearance without it this year anyway. I would use the rest of this year to dial in the rest of your maintenance and then start application of the T-Nex next Spring after complete green-up when you can't maintain the 1/3rd rule while cutting twice a week.


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## SumBeach35 (Jul 11, 2019)

@RLaschober your order went out today


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## DLav8r (Jun 15, 2020)

rjw0283 said:


> RLaschober said:
> 
> 
> > Potassium is an issue. See soil test below. After some input from others previously I will applying K in september: Potassium Sulfate 2lb/1000sqft
> ...


What product of K do you use for foliar app? Thanks


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## SumBeach35 (Jul 11, 2019)

DLav8r said:


> rjw0283 said:
> 
> 
> > RLaschober said:
> ...


potassium acetate is a good foliar source of K.


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