# DIY Inground Irrigation Design and Layout



## Eric

I'm going to use this thread to discuss my thoughts and questions as I work through designing an irrigation system. I'm going to take to look at 2 different connection options, pros and cons of each, and from there the layout should be the same. I'm just learning all of this so I hope it can help others down the road as they attempt the same thing!

My first question is, does anyone know of any free online designing software to help create nice size able drawing to help Layout the system and make it easy for others to read?


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## Eric

Ok I'm gonna list a materials list:

1" Pipe for main lines and laterals:
https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/polypipe/1-100-psi-irrigation-pipe-yellow-label-flexible-water-pipe/p-1444431564118.htm

1/2" pipe to go to sprinklers:
https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/water-systems/watering-irrigation/drip-irrigation/drip-irrigation-tubing/rain-bird-swing-pipe-100-ft-coil-for-sprinkler-installation/p-1444451880306-c-8657.htm?tid=1258999796872508715&ipos=6

Connections to heads:
https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/water-systems/watering-irrigation/underground-sprinkler-systems/underground-sprinkler-accessories/rain-bird-swing-pipe-elbow-1-2-barb-x-1-2-mnpt/p-1444451886736-c-8652.htm?tid=1625235453450438523&ipos=8
(Obviously I will buy some 3/4" where needed as well)

From the laterals to the heads:
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Insert-Fitting-p/1401-130.htm

Now I'm either going to run 2 Melnor 4 valve spigot timers or go full blown valves and controller.

For the spigot timers I'll need:

Basically I need to run 3/4" poly off the hose thread then convert it to 1" either for the poly runs if doing timers, or 1" poly to run it into the manifold.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007AHI3QY/ref=asc_df_B007AHI3QY5169222/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B007AHI3QY&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198079373928&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4198307165873313625&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017770&hvtargid=pla-319346663450

http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Insert-Fitting-p/1429-131.htm

Now if I go full blown I'll need to manifolds and I'm thinking the following:
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Sprinklers-Valves-Manifolds-Kits-p/dura-4pgv-barb.htm
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Sprinklers-Valves-Manifolds-Kits-p/dura-3pgv-barb.htm

I'll need one of these to connect the 2 manifolds with 1" poly pipe:
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Dura-Sprinkler-Valve-Manifold-Parts-p/335-010.htm

And lastly I'll need 1 of these bad boys:
https://www.amazon.com/Rachio-Smart-Sprinkler-Controller-Generation/dp/B01D1NMLJU

As I think of things l'll add them, and as always please offer thoughts/suggestions on what I could change or am missing!


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## Eric

Reserved


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## Movingshrub

I sketched out my yard and sent it to rainbird and let them come up with a plan, at no cost.


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## Eric

Movingshrub said:


> I sketched out my yard and sent it to rainbird and let them come up with a plan, at no cost.


That's going to be my last resort, not that I'm against it, just kinda want to do this DIY from the start. I want to lay it out so I know why I put what where and with what regulated heads.

The system will be built with Hunter heads, more than likely MP Rotators and PGP Rotors if I decide to incorporate some!


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## Ware

I used AutoCAD for mine, but realize that's not an option for everyone. There are some free alternatives out there, but there might be a learning curve.


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## J_nick

Graph paper, accurate measurements of your yard and a compass will be your best friend.


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## Eric

J_nick said:


> Graph paper, accurate measurements of your yard and a compass will be your best friend.


I know, lol! Just need to draw one out and make many copies so as I screw up I have more to screw up over and over again, just like the cleanliness of doing one on the computer!


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## Eric

Ware said:


> I used AutoCAD for mine, but realize that's not an option for everyone. There are some free alternatives out there, but there might be a learning curve.


I do have a question for you, on your plan your backyard by the sidewalk where you have the strip heads, how wide is that?


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## Ware

Eric said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> I used AutoCAD for mine, but realize that's not an option for everyone. There are some free alternatives out there, but there might be a learning curve.
> 
> 
> 
> I do have a question for you, on your plan your backyard by the sidewalk where you have the strip heads, how wide is that?
Click to expand...

I'm confused - the sidewalk in my back yard does not have side strip heads. That is drip irrigation for shrubs.

The side strip outside my fence - between the fence and the future sidewalk is 5ft and 8ft. I used a single row of MP Rotator side strip heads on the 5ft wide section, and opposing rows on the 8ft. The MP Rotator side strip specs are 5x15 and 5x30.


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## Eric

Ware said:


> Eric said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> I used AutoCAD for mine, but realize that's not an option for everyone. There are some free alternatives out there, but there might be a learning curve.
> 
> 
> 
> I do have a question for you, on your plan your backyard by the sidewalk where you have the strip heads, how wide is that?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm confused - the sidewalk in my back yard does not have side strip heads. That is drip irrigation for shrubs.
> 
> The side strip outside my fence - between the fence and the future sidewalk is 5ft and 8ft. I used a single row of MP Rotator side strip heads on the 5ft wide section, and opposing rows on the 8ft. The MP Rotator side strip specs are 5x15 and 5x30.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the confusion the area by future sidewalk was what I was referencing. Thanks!


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## Ware

Yeah, it changes from about 5ft to about 8ft. :thumbup:


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## Colonel K0rn

FWIW, I fiddled around with Orbit's site, and they have a pretty comprehensive online designer. You can use a model based on satellite photos of your house, or just draw it out, and the completed drawing shows the layout, along with a BOM (bill of materials)for the products used in your design. Check it out, it's pretty neat, and will give you a good starting point.

http://www.design.orbitonline.com/



Ware said:


> I used AutoCAD for mine, but realize that's not an option for everyone. There are some free alternatives out there, but there might be a learning curve.


Sketchup is a good free alternative for AutoCAD for mere mortals


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## g-man

I'm with J_nick, paper is best to brainstorm and get the an initial layout. I recommend getting a large cardboard or large paper to do the yard to scale. Then make card board circles, 180, 90 at the different nominal throw distance from the heads (ie mp2000 is 18ft). This way you could move them around and see how to fit them and get head to head coverage.

Once you get your general idea, I would then go to AutoCAD to get all the details, laterals mains paths and valves. Once you've done a few of layouts, then you could just do it in your head and write it in a napkin.

Post what you come up with and we could give you opinions. I think there are enough of us that have design our own to point you in the right direction.

In regards to the side strips, the way ware setup the 5ft section is not ideal, but it works. The ideal would be to have some opposing ones. I would definitely keep these in a separate zone to adjust the duration to the precipitation rate.


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## Eric

I started making a materials list up above if you all can check it and see if I'm on the right path!


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## J_nick

I vote for in ground valves over the spigot timers. Have you checked your GPM?


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## Eric

J_nick said:


> I vote for in ground valves over the spigot timers. Have you checked your GPM?


Yes it's 7.5 GPM at 70 psi, I was going to create the zones at a max of 6.5 to error in the side of caution.


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## g-man

You don't want to use that 1/2 distribution tubing. That's for drop irrigation and low pressures (70psi max) and more rigid. You want to use swing pipe instead (tough rubber hose).

Remember for the spigots that something has to turn to get the threads to connect. The fitting you have is fixed unless you get the poly to fitting connection loose to turn on it. You will like the rachio more since it is easier to deal with long term (ie adjusting the schedule).

Measure your psi/gpm at 6am when everyone (houses, HOA common areas, etc) is watering their lawns. During the peak of drought, my psi/gpm drops to the point that I'm avoiding that time.


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## Eric

g-man said:


> You don't want to use that 1/2 distribution tubing. That's for drop irrigation and low pressures (70psi max) and more rigid. You want to use swing pipe instead (tough rubber hose).
> 
> Remember for the spigots that something has to turn to get the threads to connect. The fitting you have is fixed unless you get the poly to fitting connection loose to turn on it. You will like the rachio more since it is easier to deal with long term (ie adjusting the schedule).
> 
> Measure your psi/gpm at 6am when everyone (houses, HOA common areas, etc) is watering their lawns. During the peak of drought, my psi/gpm drops to the point that I'm avoiding that time.


Changed the pipe to swing pipe from Menards, I wasn't a fan of the hose connection I had picked out, still researching the connection from the bib to the manifold.

Found what I believe will work for the hose connection as well, changed above as well


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## Eric

So long story short, my 4 zone Melnor timer is broke after one year and I was hoping to buy another, but don't want to buy 2! I'm not ready to put my cheap system in yet, but I'm thinking of buying the Gen2 Rachio now if I can figure out how to make the following work! This is where I need help! Lol

These are on super clearance at Menards, problem is they are 1" MNPT. What I want to do is figure out how to run a hose to a 4-way splitter then piece small sections of hose from the splitter to each valve and connect my garden hoses on the exit! I'm hoping someone knows more than me and can help me find the right connection!

I know it's pretty *******, but it's temporary until o truly want to put in a system!

https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/watering-irrigation/underground-sprinkler-systems/underground-sprinkler-valves-boxes/1-male-threaded-in-line-jar-top-sprinkler-control-valve/57467/p-1444450332499.htm


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## unclebucks06

Would need to reduce the 1" to 3/4"


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## Eric

Yeah reducing the 1" to 3/4" is this issue! I think I've figured it out!

-Build a manifold out of 3/4" PVC and fittings
-Buy 8 of these 
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Dura-Sprinkler-Valve-Manifold-Parts-p/329-007.htm
-Buy 5 of these

https://www.dripdepot.com/item/dura-schedule-40-pvc-mht-by-slip-adapter-mht-size-three-quarter-inch-slip-size-1-inch?gdffi=cf83ccffd3ab412e9fd6fb117dbb26c9&gdfms=1E86D60752F148208BE5B2F7B8866672&gclid=CjwKCAjw7IbaBRBqEiwA6AyZgiO4ZKtM2l6nBKpGHvwLzcWy9P4MUU-8rXdGXG2N8SuLoaiVu65-rBoCuqUQAvD_BwE

I think this would work, for roughly $200-210 I would have a full functioning manifold ran by rachio pushing garden hose above ground sprinklers

I would bury the system in this box!
https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/watering-irrigation/underground-sprinkler-systems/underground-sprinkler-valves-boxes/14-x-19-box-overlapping-cover-icv/113bc/p-1444448951300.htm


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## g-man

Eric:

You need to check the valve minimum gpm. Some will not work if your gpm are low.

At Menards near the PEX fittings you should be able to find an adapter from the 1in to Garden hose thread (GHT). A PVC union and a couple of T and you could build your manifold. Before buying the box, make sure you can fit all the valves in there. There needs to be some room between valves for repairs/ access.


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## Eric

g-man said:


> Eric:
> 
> You need to check the valve minimum gpm. Some will not work if your gpm are low.
> 
> At Menards near the PEX fittings you should be able to find an adapter from the 1in to Garden hose thread (GHT). A PVC union and a couple of T and you could build your manifold. Before buying the box, make sure you can fit all the valves in there. There needs to be some room between valves for repairs/ access.


Gonna hit Menards tomorrow and see what I can find! This is temporary until I decide to go all in, just don't feel like spending more on a faucet timer if they aren't going to last!

Don't necessarily need a rachio either, I'll see what Menards has and then decide, just figured it'd be beneficial down the road!


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## g-man

The rachio is nice since you could trigger zones from the phone. It is also something that you could use in the future.

I like your plan. Also at Menards they sell polypipe and fittings. That's all you will need to bury the pipes / heads after you get the valves.


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## Eric

So if I were to just build a manifold with 4 valves and sit it on the ground instead of bury it for now, would rain/elements mess with the wires/valves or would it be ok for 3 months this fall?


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## g-man

They are built like a tank and could take the elements. The wire connections should be waterproof.

Long term sun UV could weather the plastics, but not in 3 months.


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## Eric

Well here she is! My $18 manifold!


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## g-man

:thumbup:


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## Eric

Rachio should be here today! Hope to install it tonight! Moving forward I will post info in the thread I started last fall and forgot about, as over the next year I foresee this turning into a full blown system, and hope to be able to help others along the way!

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1193


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## Eric

So forgot I started this thread so I'm going to use it from here on out! Step one started today!

What you see is a Menards bargain manifold ran by a Rachio Gen 2! My Melnor timer took a crap and I decided it's time to go all in. Whether any heads get added/buried this year I don't know, I'm still researching it all out! All my thoughts and questions will be posted here!





My first new question is 3/4" PVC and Polypipe big enough to run zones pushing 6-7 GPM or should it be 1"?


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## g-man

3/4 is fine in my experience at 5-6gpm. 1in is better. I would recommend your run from the valve to your first head at 1in, after that then 3/4. Normally that's the longest path with all the flow so it is higher pressure loss.

The first step is to figure out how many gpm your house could provide. That means looking at the main water line. What is the diameter and material (copper, PEX) .


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## Eric

@g-man By the way thanks for recommending the Rachio! It's a pretty sweet/simple unit!


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## b0nk3rs

That little patch hose from the bibb to the pvc looks like a potential choke point, just a thought.


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## Eric

b0nk3rs said:


> That little patch hose from the bibb to the pvc looks like a potential choke point, just a thought.


Yep it's a spare washing machine hose, buying parts to build a proper one tonight! Noticed flow was restricted last night, but I was like a kid at Christmas had to test to make sure it all worked!


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## g-man

I think the hose is the lease of flow issues. The spigot is likely feed by a 1/2 pipe, so you will be limited in your gpm. Is this in a basement that you could change the spigot to a larger infeed line?


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## Eric

g-man said:


> I think the hose is the lease of flow issues. The spigot is likely feed by a 1/2 pipe, so you will be limited in your gpm. Is this in a basement that you could change the spigot to a larger infeed line?


I actually had that thought last night, if I tap into the 3/4" copper past the meter and run a new line strictly for this spigot! I just noticed a drop in pressure from garden hoses to the manifold setup, I'm pulling 7.5 GPM out of the spigot right now, that hose has a small ID which might be restricting some. I think I have decided moving forward everything will be either 1" PVC or Poly, talking probably couple hundred different in price when all said and done, but probably worth it


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## g-man

With 3/4 poly/PVC you should be able to safely do 11gpm if the pressure is good. The added valves do cause some minor pressure drop. I would do the bucket test using a hose after your manifold/valve setup to see what is your gpm. Source: https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/gpm-psi-municipal-water-source/

If you tap to add another spigot and decide to use PEX instead of copper, then use 1in PEX. PEX is easier to deal with, but it is more restrictive.


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## Eric

So here's what I've found tonight:
-GPM of faucet right past meter in the basement is 12 GPM
-GPM of Sillcock is 7.5 GPM
-GPM of little black hose connected 6 GPM
-GPM of hose off one valve 5.5 GPM

So I'm losing 1.5 GPM just from the little hose and another .5 GPM through the valve manifold(which I expected)! So what to do......

Obviously I need to change to a bigger hose at the bare minimum. I always planned on setting zones for 6 GPM, but I could potentially do this:

Cut into my 1" supply line past the meter and put one of these in
https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/fittings/quick-connect-fittings/watts-reg-brass-quick-connect-tee-fitting/0472037/p-1444446179380-c-12709.htm

Then run this over to where the sillcock is

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/pipe/pex-pipe/nibco-reg-1-white-pex-tubing/px60230/p-1444449310219-c-19654.htm?tid=-7973127862711445156&ipos=1

Then use one of these

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/fittings/quick-connect-fittings/watts-reg-brass-quick-connect-elbow-fitting/0472020/p-1444446186511-c-12709.htm

Then a small piece of copper and finally these

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/pipe-tubing-hoses-fittings-accessories/fittings/quick-connect-fittings/watts-reg-brass-quick-connect-female-adapter-fitting/0472007/p-1444446193741-c-12709.htm

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbing/rough-plumbing/valves/hose-bibbs-wall-faucets-wall-hydrants/woodford-reg-3-4-mpt-x-3-4-fswt-x-8-l-freezeless-anti-siphon-wall-hydrant/17cp3-8-mh/p-1444429468047.htm

This would give me a 3/4" sillcock feed by 1" PEX straight off the stack! Would I be able to pull close to the 12 GPM on the outside? I may have to choose higher quality Pex as it says it's a Pex-c and the fittings work with A and B. Looking at $100-140 to make this happen. Is it worth it!


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## g-man

If you want to go PEX, then get a PEX spigot. That way to avoid all of the changes. I think they sell 1in PEX spigots.

I would add a ball valve after the T. It helps if thing go wrong and the wife wants water in the rest of the house.

They sell shorter length of PEX at Menards and different colors. No need to buy 50ft. Remember to follow the PEX curves.

Do you have PEX tools?


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## Eric

g-man said:


> If you want to go PEX, then get a PEX spigot. That way to avoid all of the changes. I think they sell 1in PEX spigots.
> 
> I would add a ball valve after the T. It helps if thing go wrong and the wife wants water in the rest of the house.
> 
> They sell shorter length of PEX at Menards and different colors. No need to buy 50ft. Remember to follow the PEX curves.
> 
> Do you have PEX tools?


I have access to tools, just have to decide if it's something I want to do! If I go this route the whole system will definately have to be made out of 1" material as opposed to 3/4", but it would be nice to run more heads of each zone!


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## Eric

So I've spent most the afternoon drawing this up, I apologize for the low tech picture, but it's the skills I have!

Specs are as follows:
-Total of 36 heads
-Purple dots are MP 1000s, using PRS 40 CV bodies
-Orange dots are Hunter I20s running a mix of regular and SR 1.5 nozzles using the PR 45 CV bodies
-7 zones total back(North) is 3 zones equally 18 GPM, West is 5.09 GPM, East is 2.87 GPM, and Front Yard is 2 zones equally 9 GPM
-I intend to run off my regular hose spigot as is with a max of 6GPM per zone
-really leaning towards 3/4" PVC and Poly as it should handle what I need it to do

I am not irrigating the east side of the garage as it doesn't need it! The SE front section isn't ideal but I designed it that way intentionally. I push a lot of snow there in the winter and I don't want to rip the heads out with the plow!

I also know I'm watering the sidewalk, but it allows me to have 6 heads up front instead of 20-24!

Please take a look and let me know your thoughts!


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## unclebucks06

Back yard is ok. Your front is a no go for me. You should not water the side walk.
Need another head by the flower bed and maybe a 360 in the middle. I didnt look at it too closely.


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## bassadict69

Holy cow!! Thank you for this thread! I have been running a 2hp centrifugal pump, pulling water from the lake, into a 1 1/2" discharge plumbing to a simple spigot at the bank that I have a water hose connected to and 3 sprinkler heads hooked in parallel via water hoses. I am watering an acre so you can only imagine how tired I am of dragging around water hoses to move the sprinklers!

I have been saying for several years we would put in a permanent irrigation system but every year something else comes up to take the money I would need for the irrigation.

I think something like this would be perfect as a temporary solution to what I am dealing with... I will probably have plenty of questions for you!


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## Eric

bassadict69 said:


> Holy cow!! Thank you for this thread! I have been running a 2hp centrifugal pump, pulling water from the lake, into a 1 1/2" discharge plumbing to a simple spigot at the bank that I have a water hose connected to and 3 sprinkler heads hooked in parallel via water hoses. I am watering an acre so you can only imagine how tired I am of dragging around water hoses to move the sprinklers!
> 
> I have been saying for several years we would put in a permanent irrigation system but every year something else comes up to take the money I would need for the irrigation.
> 
> I think something like this would be perfect as a temporary solution to what I am dealing with... I will probably have plenty of questions for you!


I hope this thread eventually helps other like me! After receiving a bid last year for $5000 plus the added cost of adding a second meter for an additional $4-600, I just couldnt justify it!

1) I really only need it 3-4 months out of the year
2)I have yet to find an installer that installs systems the correct way! Can't tell you how many I've seen that aren't set up right, and to do so would probably cost more

This will probably be a multi year process, but trying to lay it all out now. I'm guessing all in I'll probably have $1200-1500 in the complete system!


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## zeus201

Who did you have bid on irrigation? This is was my pricing breakdown for 8k of turf using my design.

- $3,300 for irrigation install, PVB install / testing and 2 year warranty. 
- $625 for plumbing of secondary meter. 
- $250 for secondary meter.
- $179 for Rachio Gen2.


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## Eric

zeus201 said:


> Who did you have bid on irrigation? This is was my pricing breakdown for 8k of turf using my design.
> 
> - $3,300 for irrigation install, PVB install / testing and 2 year warranty.
> - $625 for plumbing of secondary meter.
> - $250 for secondary meter.
> - $179 for Rachio Gen2.


Risco out of Gilbert! Just the plumbing part to meet Ames stupid codes was $1200!

I called Iowa Irrigation for a bid last fall and they were just "too busy", call back in the spring! So yeah they pissed me off! Who doesn't have time to write up a bid?


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## Rain Bird Corp

Eric said:


> I called Iowa Irrigation for a bid last fall and they were just "too busy", call back in the spring! So yeah they pissed me off! Who doesn't have time to write up a bid?


I have no idea who Iowa Irrigation is or how good they are, but..... most contractors in freezing climates are working 15 hour days in the fall getting their customers' systems blown out so there is not freeze damage. If you think that they may be good except for this experience, cut them some slack and give them another shot.


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## g-man

In the Midwest they are also super busy with installations. The demand is higher than the offer. I saw a commercial company doing an install 04Jul in a brutal sunny hot day. You might get their attention in January for bids and design. They are trying to maximize the amount of warm days to work before the ground freezes or rains makes it impossible to work.

I did my own install just because I could not wait.


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## ken-n-nancy

g-man said:


> In the Midwest they are also super busy with installation.


Same here in New England. Before yesterday, it had been 15 days here in southern NH since rain. That might not sound like a long time to many of you from drier states, but it's not common to go for more than 7-10 days here without rain. Any non-irrigated lawn here is showing drought stress (if not completely dormant), which pushes up the demand for irrigation installations.


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## zeus201

Eric said:


> zeus201 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Who did you have bid on irrigation? This is was my pricing breakdown for 8k of turf using my design.
> 
> - $3,300 for irrigation install, PVB install / testing and 2 year warranty.
> - $625 for plumbing of secondary meter.
> - $250 for secondary meter.
> - $179 for Rachio Gen2.
> 
> 
> 
> Risco out of Gilbert! Just the plumbing part to meet Ames stupid codes was $1200!
> 
> I called Iowa Irrigation for a bid last fall and they were just "too busy", call back in the spring! So yeah they pissed me off! Who doesn't have time to write up a bid?
Click to expand...

Hahaha, Risco never called me back.

I used Iowa Irrigation and was quite happy with the installation. They were cool my design, helped keep the zone boxes closer to planting beds (asthetics) and did their best trying to maintain look of the lawn. Of course the ridges from pulling the pipe annoy me, but I'd like to think all of us would even though it is part of the deal.

Now, getting them to come out is a different story. They truley are super busy and I started pestering them last summer. They honestly have several months to do installs and after that it is straight to "winterizing". After many calls they finally came out in October (2017) towards the end of the season. Even this year they were set back with installs as winter didn't want to give up, which set back my install date.

If you are truley interested in irrigation, I can get you in contact with the residential / commerical designer rather than talking to the receptionist.



Rain Bird Corp said:


> Eric said:
> 
> 
> 
> I called Iowa Irrigation for a bid last fall and they were just "too busy", call back in the spring! So yeah they pissed me off! Who doesn't have time to write up a bid?
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea who Iowa Irrigation is or how good they are, but..... most contractors in freezing climates are working 15 hour days in the fall getting their customers' systems blown out so there is not freeze damage. If you think that they may be good except for this experience, cut them some slack and give them another shot.
Click to expand...




g-man said:


> In the Midwest they are also super busy with installations. The demand is higher than the offer. I saw a commercial company doing an install 04Jul in a brutal sunny hot day. You might get their attention in January for bids and design. They are trying to maximize the amount of warm days to work before the ground freezes or rains makes it impossible to work.
> 
> I did my own install just because I could not wait.


They installed my system in 90 degree / humid a$$ day. I felt for them and they were hanging out in the shade of the house inbetween breaks.


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## b0nk3rs

I haven't read the entire thread but I highly encourage you to buy a small test zone's worth of supplies first and do some extensive testing before splurging for a bunch of materials.


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## Eric

b0nk3rs said:


> I haven't read the entire thread but I highly encourage you to buy a small test zone's worth of supplies first and do some extensive testing before splurging for a bunch of materials.


Yeah I'm currently running sprinklers off a built manifold, ran by a controller, 12-13 heads! Thinking I may do the front this fall(if I have time), ideally I would love to have someone put a system in, but not sure it's worth the additional $$, something I'm still working through. Worse case is I'll have what I want laid out if I don't install for them to bid!

@zeus201 I may give them another shot, because I heard they were reasonable. But I just felt as if they didnt want/need the business! Turned me off! But maybe I shouldn't write them off!


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## g-man

Eric, I agree with @unclebucks06. The front left side needs one more head right at the arc of the 180 by the street. I would use a 270 instead of a 360 to avoid watering the house. I also dont like watering the sidewalks, but i get why you went that way. It is not hard to go underneath the sidewalk with a pvc pipe, but it adds more heads.

The right side needs more heads. My driveway is a similar layout. I have a corner MP in the corner of the 3rd car driveway. There should be 2 heads along the straight section of the 3rd car garage too. The heads are placed at the soil level and you wont hit them with the snow plow unless you are digging dirt up.


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## Eric

Just to clarify the bottom of my sheet is the street, so I have 3 rotors shooting back at the front lawn on the left. And 2 MPs on the right. I'm gonna redraw the front using MPs probably tomorrow, I'm going under the sidewalk on both runs I just freaked when I realized the hell strip on the left would need 12 heads all by itself, that's why I decided on rotors!


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## Mdos

Interested in how this turns out. I was looking into one of those cheap rain bird ones but don't think it's going to be big enough for what I need so I have been throwing the idea of a 2-3 zone system.

Good luck


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## gm560

Eric said:


> b0nk3rs said:
> 
> 
> 
> That little patch hose from the bibb to the pvc looks like a potential choke point, just a thought.
> 
> 
> 
> Yep it's a spare washing machine hose, buying parts to build a proper one tonight! Noticed flow was restricted last night, but I was like a kid at Christmas had to test to make sure it all worked!
Click to expand...

Sweet thread!

How did you go from the hose to the PVC pipe manifold? Currently trying to figure out how to get from my hose bib to this


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## g-man

@gm560 look at this thread. thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=4271
You need a garden hose thread (GHT) adapter. Eric used a plastic one, but they also have metal.

@Eric could I merge these two threads?

edit: I merged the threads so it is all in one place.


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## Eric

@gm560 I just built a new connection tonight from the hose bib to the manifold! I'll take pictures tomorrow. Used 3/4" poly with 3/4"barb to 1/2" thread on each end then a 1/2" brass to FHT! The leader hose I was using was supposed to be 5/8" but started looking like a 1" hose being under 70 psi all the time. Was afraid it was gonna break!

My manifold is built out of 3/4" pvc with a slip fitting with 1/2" threads with a brass 1/2" thread to a 3/4" MHT


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## Eric

Here's some pic!


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## gm560

Eric said:


> Here's some pic!


Awesome. I was thinking about making a hose out of poly as well. Appreciate the tips.


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## cousineau18

Eric said:


> Just to clarify the bottom of my sheet is the street, so I have 3 rotors shooting back at the front lawn on the left. And 2 MPs on the right. I'm gonna redraw the front using MPs probably tomorrow, I'm going under the sidewalk on both runs I just freaked when I realized the hell strip on the left would need 12 heads all by itself, that's why I decided on rotors!


Quick question how did you end up going under the sidewalk? Did you just did enough to be able to shove a pvc pipe under or did you have a tool?


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## g-man

I haven't seen Eric around in a while.

Used a 1 or 1.25in pipe and cut it with a 45degree angle. On the other side I did a couple of thru holes. Dig a section next to the sidewalk to lay the pipe. Insert the pipe with the cut end, use the holes to turn it with a screwdriver then pull the pipe out. Clear the soil inside the pipe and repeat. Eventually you will get to the other side. I left my pipe in there and ran the poly one thru it. If I ever need to replace the poly, the PVC one is there for a quicker change.


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## gm560

I used this to get under my bluestone walk. FYI... the tunneling totally sucked and made a huge mess, but this got it done.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-Walkway-Tunnel-Kit-53333/100127846


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## hsvtoolfool

This may sound crazy, but in most soil, even most clay, you can just drive 1" SCH40 PVC pipe under a sidewalk with a sledge hammer. Just put a PVC cap on the end and go. I learned this trick from a pro irrigation installer who helped me finish my front yard install.

Unfortuately, one of my runs under the sidewalk was extremely compacted and also had TONS of chert rock everywhere. In the end, I ran to my local Site-One and got a "Sidewalk Sleever" gizmo for about $100....

www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/upi-sidewalk-sleever-boring-tool-sidewalk-sleever

www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBfT46t68GU

I later gave the "Sidewalk Sleever" gizmo to my buddy for helping me.


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