# Help with TX lawn



## larrb (Apr 10, 2018)

This is our 3rd Spring in our house that was built 5yrs ago, outside of Austin, TX. These past 2 springs, our lawn hasn't been as green as the first year, with brown spots.

The only thing I've done to it this year was Scotts yellow weed n feed, about 3-4 weeks ago. Honestly it didn't seem to do too much.

I'm looking for some advice on what my next move is. I feel like I need to feed it again, but not sure how long I should wait, and what product to use. Honestly I'm overwhelmed on what to do. I feel like if I just had a program, I could easily follow it. I just don't know what that is.

I water it twice a week for an hour with a sprinkler system.

Also, I'm curious about de-thatching, and if that could possibly be my issue. I took a regular metal rake to some of the brown spots, and took up a bunch of long , dry brown runners, or whatever theyre called. I thought maybe they were smothering the new growth?

These pictures are after mowing, today.

Any guidance in this area is greatly appreciated!


----------



## w0lfe (Mar 19, 2018)

Have you had a soil test done?


----------



## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

I doubt you need to dethatch unless it feels spongey, but no harm if you do so once it's prime growing season.

Those runners are called stolons and that's one of the ways that Bermuda grass spreads.

You could try using a long screw driver to poke under the brown spots and see if there is any kind of construction debris that's preventing the grass from developing deep roots.

In terms of irrigation, considering water pressure is different everywhere, amount of water is more useful information than length of time you let the system run. You could use an empty tuna can to catch water and then measure with at ruler the dept of water. Bermuda needs between and 1" and 1.5" total per week. Your irrigation should be to supplement rain and you want long deep run times rather than a bunch of short run times.

How much weed and feed did you apply?


----------



## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Welcome to TLF! Glad you're here!

If you haven't already, I would read Bermuda Bible: The New Testament. It is a great resource for all things bermuda.

Regarding the sprinkler system, you'll want to go beyond run time and figure out what the actual precipitation rate is for each zone. It can vary wildly depending on the design of the system (which heads are used, etc). The best way to do that is to do an irrigation audit with gauges like these scattered around each zone. Run the zone for 15 minutes, then multiply the amount of water in the gauges by 4 to get your precipitation rate in units of inches/hour (or multiply by 2 if you run the test for 30 minutes). Figuring this out will help you ensure that your grass is getting enough, but not too much water.


----------



## Killbuzz (Apr 30, 2017)

Looks like it needs a good scalping.


----------



## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

Killbuzz said:


> Looks like it needs a good scalping.


+1. You should take the grass down as far as you can every Spring to remove last year's dormant top growth. Bermuda will look and perform best at low mowing heights with frequent mowing (at least twice a week) through the growing season. Shade might be an issue for you around the house and trees as bermuda prefers 8+ hours of direct sunlight each day to thrive.

As far as feeding is concerned, you shouldn't need to feed again so soon. The colder than normal temps are what is holding it back right now.


----------



## larrb (Apr 10, 2018)

Thanks for the replies!
I will study the Bermuda Bible , and will test how much I'm watering. That seems to be the consensus as the first order of business.
I have not had a soil test.
I used the scotts yellow weed and feed, and used the edgeguard mini spreader on 3.5 setting.
It barely put a dent in the 42lb bag
For the past 2 years, I've been using the highest setting on my mower, but since the first mow of the season(I think I've mowed 3-4 times now)I have kept it 1 tick lower. There are 4 or 5 settings on my mower.
Should I go lower next time?

My lot is 6300sqft, and the house is 1850, so counting the garage, small patio, flower bed, driveway, I'll estimate 2500sqft of grass?

So should I put down some 10-10-10 fertlizer in the next week? What ratio should I be using? I was a bit unclear on this section of the Bible.

edit: Sorry Spammage, didn't see your post till after my reply.

So I guess I'm now wondering if I should cut the grass on the lowest setting now, or if it's too late


----------



## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

larrb said:


> For the past 2 years, I've been using the highest setting on my mower, but since the first mow of the season(I think I've mowed 3-4 times now)I have kept it 1 tick lower. There are 4 or 5 settings on my mower.
> Should I go lower next time?


Yes, maybe more than one tick lower if viable.


----------



## Llano Estacado (Jul 18, 2017)

larrb said:


> Thanks for the replies!
> I will study the Bermuda Bible , and will test how much I'm watering. That seems to be the consensus as the first order of business.
> I have not had a soil test.
> I used the scotts yellow weed and feed, and used the edgeguard mini spreader on 3.5 setting.
> ...


I cut my celebration bermuda as low as I can without scalping. If you're cutting with a rotary on the highest setting you're likely cutting way too tall. Now is the time to knock it down but be prepared to mow 2-3 times a week.


----------



## gardencityboy (Mar 8, 2018)

Movingshrub said:


> larrb said:
> 
> 
> > For the past 2 years, I've been using the highest setting on my mower, but since the first mow of the season(I think I've mowed 3-4 times now)I have kept it 1 tick lower. There are 4 or 5 settings on my mower.
> ...


+1 
I would suggest to go to the lowest setting and mow your lawn. I had similar issues with my lawn and once I scalped it, I now see new green leaves coming up and the lawn look much better shape.


----------



## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

gardencityboy said:


> Movingshrub said:
> 
> 
> > larrb said:
> ...


+1. The N-P-K numbers on the bag of fertilizer will be your guide as to how much you should apply. They indicate (N)itrogen-(P)hosphorous-(K)potassium in that order and the percentage of the product by number. For example, a 25-25-25 would represent 25% each for those nutrients, 10-10-10 would be 10%, etc. The Scott's W&F product is showing 28-0-3 on Lowe's website. If the goal is to put down a pound of nitrogen per 1000 square feet, then you would need 3.57lbs/1000sf. If you have 2500sf, then you should apply 8.9 pounds to your lawn.


----------



## larrb (Apr 10, 2018)

Ok great, thanks for all the help.
I tested my watering amount last night with a tuna can in the middle of the front yard. For 1.5hr watering, I got 3/4".
So I'll project 2hrs will get me an inch. I've got the system currently set for twice a week for an hour, so I'll just do once a week, for 2 hours now.
I'll scalp the yard in a day or two


----------



## gardencityboy (Mar 8, 2018)

larrb said:


> Ok great, thanks for all the help.
> I tested my watering amount last night with a tuna can in the middle of the front yard. For 1.5hr watering, I got 3/4".
> So I'll project 2hrs will get me an inch. I've got the system currently set for twice a week for an hour, so I'll just do once a week, for 2 hours now.
> I'll scalp the yard in a day or two


Sound great. Make sure you bag your clippings that way you don't end up with thatch on the scalped lawn.


----------



## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

gardencityboy said:


> larrb said:
> 
> 
> > Ok great, thanks for all the help.
> ...


+1 - plus, you may find with our fine native soil that less than an inch is needed (especially this time of year), or that you need to cycle the irrigation to allow the water to infiltrate the soil and avoid runoff. You can accomplish this by running the system for an hour, stopping for an hour, and then starting another cycle. Your irrigation controller may have this functionality built-in, or you can just set different start times for the two (or more) runs.


----------



## larrb (Apr 10, 2018)

Ok thanks guys. Well I missed the last post about bagging, so I didn't bag when I cut yesterday. I cut on the second to lowest setting. I've attached some pictures. Should I try and rake the yard? I went over the lawn multiple times, as I always do, to get the clippings left on the lawn very fine. Will that do?


----------



## skiwhe (Apr 18, 2017)

larrb said:


> Ok thanks guys. Well I missed the last post about bagging, so I didn't bag when I cut yesterday. I cut on the second to lowest setting. I've attached some pictures. Should I try and rake the yard? I went over the lawn multiple times, as I always do, to get the clippings left on the lawn very fine. Will that do?


You will be fine. Some of us bag and some of us mulch. As long as your thatch layer isn't too thick (feeling spongy) you'll be fine. The primary goals is to water, fertilize and mow low consistently. Just putting down a good, organic fertilizer every 4-6 weeks, watering consistently, and mowing low will make a world of difference. I'd recommend a soil test some time in the next few weeks just to check to see what you need to add to the soil. Once you get these steps under control, weed control is all that is left.


----------

