# Baroness Greens Mower Questions



## dfw_pilot

Do you have a Baroness greens mower and have a question about working on it? Do you have something to share? Ask or share here.​
*Here are some useful links for new and current Baroness owners*
LockNLube Grease Coupler
Lumax Heavy Duty Deluxe Pistol Grip Grease Gun with 18 in Flex Hose
Accu-gage *(Hands free magnet option highly recommended!)*
Surecan
No-Spill
Hardline Products HR-8061-2 Hour Meter/Tachometer for up to 2-Cylinder Engines. *Hour Meter*
Sierra Tools JB5684 Battery Operated Liquid Transfer Pump.


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## Redtenchu

Started reaching for my Visa after watch this video, then I remembered the DFW investment post... I'll just stick with what I have for now.

https://youtu.be/lXjQ1cSFDUM


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## Topcat

very nice


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## J_nick

I don't know the egg shaped piece on the transport wheel axle is a deal breaker :lol:


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## Mightyquinn

I love the video and have watched it numerous times and I'm REALLY happy that I have one of these


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## palms

For those in the know, particularly MQ...initial thoughts on the following listing?

http://miturfequip.com/product/used-turf-equipment/used-walking-greens-mowers/baroness-lm56g-22″-walking-greens-mower/

There seem to be a few on the forum that have had good dealings with this seller. Haven't made any additional inquiries pertaining to year of the units, hours, etc. Just looking for a feel on the advertised price point assuming they are decent, operable mowers that might just need a little aesthetic TLC. I'm attracted to the gear-driven design of these units (vice belts) and the Honda engine. Also, I'm guessing that most reputable golf courses "could" grind the reel when needed in the same manner as any of the usual big three (JD, Toro, Jacobsen)...assuming that the proper business/personal relationship is in place. Thoughts?


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## Mightyquinn

palms said:


> For those in the know, particularly MQ...initial thoughts on the following listing?
> 
> http://miturfequip.com/product/used-turf-equipment/used-walking-greens-mowers/baroness-lm56g-22″-walking-greens-mower/
> 
> There seem to be a few on the forum that have had good dealings with this seller. Haven't made any additional inquiries pertaining to year of the units, hours, etc. Just looking for a feel on the advertised price point assuming they are decent, operable mowers that might just need a little aesthetic TLC. I'm attracted to the gear-driven design of these units (vice belts) and the Honda engine. Also, I'm guessing that most reputable golf courses "could" grind the reel when needed in the same manner as any of the usual big three (JD, Toro, Jacobsen)...assuming that the proper business/personal relationship is in place. Thoughts?


Funny you posted this as another member here has PM'd me about this same mower(s). For $950, I think it's a good deal initially as they appear to be in good shape and come with everything mine did originally(Grass Catcher, Headlight(which sucks BTW), transport tires and a Groomer). They look pretty clean and have hardly any rust on them. I really love mine and enjoy the fact that I don't have to worry about any belts or anything. I just make sure to lube it every 10 hours and change the oil every 50 hours. I also believe the seller is an actual Baroness Dealer too if that's worth anything to anyone.

I did learn one thing about sharpening these mowers(which I have never done, just backlapping) is that they require a special stone since the reels are made from a harder steel than the other manufacturers. One of our other members was curious about it and emailed Baroness directly about it and they said to contact Foley United to see if they know of anyone in your location who could do it.

This is a portion of the email.

Unfortunately being in California without a dealer located by you, we don't have a ton of information regarding people that grind near you. My boss said you might be able to get some information by contacting Foley United tel:1-800-225-9810. They are a grinding company that knows who Baroness is and might be able to point you towards someone. They also have our relief angle information. We don't have a grinder ourself and have someone come to our location, might want to just do a google search near your area and see what comes up. I'm sure there is the same type of person out near you for the golf courses. What I've seen is that many golf courses will buy the grinder but their mechanic doesn't understand how to grind properly, therefore keeping the job of the guy who drives around sharpening reels and bedknives for golf courses. The 2 things I would recommend you ask about if you get in touch with someone, do they understand relief angle grinding, if they don't they will ruin your reel, and do they understand Baroness reels and bedknives. If they have never worked on Baroness equipment before, they probably have a grinding stone meant for toro Jacobson or John Deere. We use a much harder steel than the other manufacturers, so you need a harder stone. The upside is they last longer and stay sharper way longer than the competition. We have customers that mow everyday and go a few years without grinding if they are backlaping and understand how to maintain a reel and bedknife. 
I hope this points you in the right direction. If you cannot find anyone and foley cannot help, let me know and I can ask our grinder person if he knows someone, maybe saw at the gis or something.

Regards,
Alex Yokoi

If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask away.


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## palms

MQ - thanks for the insight and perspective, especially concerning the carbon steel reel. I hadn't considered that it would need more specialized attention, but it certainly makes sense. Good to know!


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## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> "We have customers that mow everyday and go a few years without grinding if they are backlaping and understand how to maintain a reel and bedknife." Alex Yokoi


Anyone, @Mightyquinn, @ajmikola, @gpbrown60, or @bigmks care to share how you have proceeded with the backlapping process or finding someone to grind your reel? I read where Mightyquinn uses 400 grit clover compound. Is it straight to 400 or is there a 180 grit or higher beforehand?

Anyone explored the cost of buying a grinding stone from Foley? Perhaps, we could ship it to one another?

Everyone using EP #2 grease?

Any problems with clutches so far?

I join this group on Monday...my mower is waiting for me at a shipping terminal in Tulsa that is closed on the weekend.


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## Mightyquinn

I think Pinhigh makes a 180 grit backlapping compound but if the reel on the mower you got is anything like the one @bigmks has and it still has the gold rust preventative on it all you should need is the 400 grit Clover compound. You may also want to have 120 grit on hand too just in case. There is a 13mm nut on the right side of the mower as you are looking at it that you will attach a drill with socket to in order to backlap the mower. Let me know if you need any further instructions. You shouldn't need to sharpen the blade for at least 3-4 years as long as you don't hit anything to cause damage and just an occasional backlap will get you back to cutting in no time.

I've looked into all the DIY sharpening systems and they are all cost prohibitive, you best bet is to find a local golf course that can do it for you and it's probably best to try and get it done in the offseason.

I've been using Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty Grease in the green tube since I got it without any issues.

I've had zero issues with my clutch. Is there a reason you are asking?

Just FYI, the Clover compound is VERY sticky and doesn't wash off very easily like a normal backlapping compound does. I have found that using Super Clean does a fairly good job at removing it and breaking it down not to mention it's also a great degreaser/cleaner to have around in the garage.


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## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> I've had zero issues with my clutch. Is there a reason you are asking?


Just curious as to whether anyone has had any clutch issues from "feathering" their mowers. I have a small yard with none forgiving obstructions. So, I plan on running this mower at its lowest rpm setting and feathering alot! However, one should never underestimate the ability of a transport axle to act as a grappling hook. :lol: (I honestly think the introduction of the Rotary Power Scissors/Landscape Blade was a game changing moment for homeowners wanting to use greens mowers.)

I guess I should have included @touchofgrass in the shoutout! I may just send her a PM if there is something about the mower that you cannot answer! :thumbup:


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## ajmikola

I have nothing really to add that the other guys haven't. I backlap, a lot. Do the grease thing as recommended, make sure it can cut paper across the bedknife, adjust reel to bed knife when needed. 
For height adjustment i went to lowes and bought a 15/16th self ratcheting box wrench, it has really helped because the locking nut and bolt don't twist so easily on mine. 
I cut off the transport axles with an angle grinder. 
For the engine, I dumped the oil and gas when i first bought it, replaced the carb and put in fresh oil. New filter as well. I only use ethanol free gas. The freakin honda gx120 engine starts with 1/2 a pull. Best engine i have ever had. 
I just tuned it up for the season and it cuts paper better than my wife's expensive shears she uses for sewing . I love it, I do wish it had an independent reel you could take off and adjust on a bench. I use a cinder block on the middle of the handle to hold it all the way down while I do adjustments. 
I have been meaning to make a youtube video, but I've been to busy. Good luck, hope that helps. Much props to @Mightyquinn for showing me the ropes.


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## Mightyquinn

I do have to have the transport wheels on to make any HOC/groomer adjustments as the HOC bar won't fully seat on the bedknife but that's something you shouldn't have to adjust too often.

@ajmikola What did you do with your other Baroness?


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## ajmikola

Mightyquinn said:


> I do have to have the transport wheels on to make any HOC/groomer adjustments as the HOC bar won't fully seat on the bedknife but that's something you shouldn't have to adjust too often.
> 
> @ajmikola What did you do with your other Baroness?


I sold it to a buddy of mine. I have gone back and forth about backing off a bit on my lawn. I am going to try to be very aggressive with my PGR this year so I don't have to cut as much.


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## bigmks

@Mightyquinn has been so helpful in the process. He is my goto guy with questions about the mower. I bought the 280 grit compund, but like @Mightyquinn said if you'res is like mines it will be awhile before you have to backlap. 
 I bought this to change the oil after Mightyquin recommendation. All that is left for me to do is change the oil and start it up. I made a diy HOC gauge as well. I'm looking forward to taking it into the backyard to figure how exactly it works. This is all new to me. I'm a young grasshopper!!


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## MasterMech

I'm a fan of fluid extractors instead of drain plugs. http://liquivac.com


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## Ware

I like it. I have seen the larger/more expensive marine versions. For me, this is a no brainer for small engines. Ordered. :thumbup:

Here is the Amazon link.


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## bigmks

Pump suction action?


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## MasterMech

bigmks said:


> Pump suction action?


Yes. Pump it down, open the valve and it sucks all of the oil up into the reservoir. Works best with the oil warmed up. Mow, enjoy a beverage, then change your oil.


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## MasterMech

Ware said:


> I like it. I have seen the larger/more expensive marine versions. For me, this is a no brainer for small engines. Ordered. :thumbup:
> 
> Here is the Amazon link.


My "professional" rig was an airbrush compressor and a 4 gallon reservoir with a float valve on the suction inlet to prevent flooding the pump. Little pricey for us homegamers but couldn't beat it for multiple oil extractions every day.


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## SGrabs33

Ware said:


> I like it. I have seen the larger/more expensive marine versions. For me, this is a no brainer for small engines. Ordered. :thumbup:
> 
> Here is the Amazon link.


@silvercymbal used one of the marine ones in his Toro video that piqued my interest.


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## TulsaFan

Enough of the non-Baroness talk!  Picked this up today from the freight terminal. Pretty excited for this spring.


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## bigmks

Yes sir there you go!!


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## bigmks

Looks just Ike mines. In damn near new condition.


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## Shindoman

TulsaFan said:


> Enough of the non-Baroness talk!  Picked this up today from the freight terminal. Pretty excited for this spring.


Sweet Ride!


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## TulsaFan

The groomer blades are extremely long in comparison to my John Deere SL's. The way they split the front gaps of the roller is pretty sweet too. After I use the Graden to veritcut and the Trucut to scalp, I am going to do an extreme search for rocks in my yard.


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## Mightyquinn

She looks great!!! That light on there is about worthless though


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## driver_7

TulsaFan said:


> Enough of the non-Baroness talk!  Picked this up today from the freight terminal. Pretty excited for this spring.


  It's beautiful!!


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## Spammage

TulsaFan said:


> Enough of the non-Baroness talk!  Picked this up today from the freight terminal. Pretty excited for this spring.


Congrats!! I'm looking forward to seeing your results this season.


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## TulsaFan

Spammage said:


> Congrats!! I'm looking forward to seeing your results this season.


This is my third season of having zoysia. I was told by the guy at the sod store that the third season is where you really reap the rewards of your work. Let's hope so! Now, I just have to pick a new HOC. :thumbup:

To everyone else regarding the Baroness, thanks for your support! This kind of support is what makes The Lawn Forum special.


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## TulsaFan

Checked the reel for the first time. It cut paper across the entire reel, but the cut wasn't as crisp as I think it should be. Thinking it might need to be backlaped once to remove any possibility of rust?

It has light superficial rust in about six spots after sitting for so long: Front roller, couple bolts, kickstand, handlebar, and muffler. Any recommendations for cleaning up those spots?

The Oppama Pulse PET-3200R hour meter is not working and the internal battery last only five years. So, it appears that the battery cannot be replaced and a new hour meter will have to be purchased. Any recommendations?



As mentioned before, the difference between the gap between the front roller and groomer is vastly different for the Baroness and John Deere SL. Also, the depth of the front roller on the Baroness is significantly more aggressive than the John Deere.


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## Mightyquinn

For the rust, you could sand it down and maybe find something close at the auto parts store. I haven't really bothered with the small amount of rust that mine has.

My Hour Meter quit on me about a year after I got it and I replaced it with a cheap one from Amazon and then that died about a year later so I replaced it with this Hardline Hour Meter. It's been going strong ever since.

The more you raise your HOC the further away the groomer will be from the front roller just FYI.

A light backlap or slight reel to bedknife adjustment is all you should need to getting it cutting crisp again.


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## bigmks

I made a slight adjustment to the bedknife to reel on mines. Cuts paper all the way across now. I haven't gotten around to changing the oil and firing it up yet.


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## TulsaFan

bigmks said:


> I made a slight adjustment to the bedknife to reel on mines. Cuts paper all the way across now. I haven't gotten around to changing the oil and firing it up yet.


I need to change the oil on mine as well...or at least check it before I run it again!


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## Mightyquinn

A fellow Baroness owner reached out to the company to get specific information on the mowers and he asked me to post it here. I think this is great info to have especially if you take your mower to get sharpened and the shop isn't aware of the specification that are required.

*"This mower will give you many years of reliable service if maintained as needed. When grinding the reel and bed knives, the normal Foley stones are okay. I recommend minimal contact when grinding, as the biggest mistake I see is removing of more material than actually needed. When replacing the bed knives, you will not need to grind the bedknife if you use Baroness original bed knives. The bed bar and the contact surface on the bed knives are CNC machined, and will ensure an accuracy that regular grinders cannot match."
*
Specifications for sharpening and backlapping are as follows:

*Any grit around the #180-220 range is fine. The grinding angles are as follows.

Front edge of bedknife. 11 degree 
Top edge of bedknife. 7 degree
Relief on reel. 30 degree.

The Foley should be able to achieve the relief angle due to its smaller stone diameter.
*
One more thing, depending on what your Serial# is your mower was most likely made in 2008. My serial# is 28134 and based of what the other member was told about his mower I can say mine was made in the early 2nd quarter of 2008.

I was also thinking it would be nice to know what the torque specs for the bedknife screws are, so if anyone else knows please post it here :thumbup:


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## Mightyquinn

I was informed today that Baroness has updated there website with the new manuals for the mower with a lot better information and more detail.

Baroness Manuals


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## TulsaFan

I found a PDF of the unique selling points of a Baroness...


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## Mightyquinn

Great find &#128077;. Never knew some of those options were available!!


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## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> Great find 👍. Never knew some of those options were available!!


I wonder if the stub axles is something that could be changed out with one with existing transport axles?

It isn't listed on here but a thumb throttle is also available and I would love to demo a mower with this option.


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## Mightyquinn

TulsaFan said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Great find 👍. Never knew some of those options were available!!
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if the stub axles is something that could be changed out with one with existing transport axles?
> 
> It isn't listed on here but a thumb throttle is also available and I would love to demo a mower with this option.
Click to expand...

I was going to look into that when I get home from work today. I found some stuff last night that I will post too.

I think the thumb throttle would require new handle bars?


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## TulsaFan

Here's a very informative Baroness video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=23Q4FiUrNpM


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## Mightyquinn

I was looking at the Baroness website the other day and found this little nugget of information and it explains a lot of the advantages of the mower in great detail. Some of this info was new to me as I had never seen it before or even know about it. The one thing I really liked was finally knowing the FOC(Frequency of Cut) of the mower :thumbup:

Baroness Mower Brochure

Here is most of the brochure broken down so it's all in one place :thumbup: It's amazing at all the options you can get!!

*The Line Up:*









*IGCA(Independent Grass Catcher Arm)*

















*FOC(Frequency of Cut)*

















*Groomer, Dethatcher and Brush*









*Bedknives and Support Rollers*

















*Drums and Handles*


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## Mightyquinn

I was at the local Baroness Dealer today to price a few parts for the new mower and that had a few interesting pieces on the showroom floor that surprised me.

*LM101-22" Floating Head Greens Mower.* I saw this the other day on the Baroness Website and didn't realize they even offered one of these.


















*LM315 Triplex Greens Mower* It was nice to see one in person and this one was used too, I never did ask how much it was since I'm not in the market for one :lol:


































They also had 2(I think there are a few more in the back) older LM56 greens mowers on the floor that I posted about last year on the forum but they were asking way too much for them at the time and wanted me to pay extra for the groomer attachment, not sure what the price of them is now since it's been a year.


























If anyone is interested in anything here you can call Eastern Turf Equipment @ 910-483-0179/800-277-8873 ask for John or Jeff and they should be able to help you.


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## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> I was at the local Baroness Dealer today to price a few parts for the new mower and that had a few interesting pieces on the showroom floor that surprised me.
> 
> *LM101-22" Floating Head Greens Mower.* I saw this the other day on the Baroness Website and didn't realize they even offered one of these.


Did you ask the price of the LM101?


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## bigmks

I'm sure its pretty high. I remember talking with one of the mechanic and he basically told me I got a steal on the one I bought. I believe he said the lowest one was around 3k??


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## Mightyquinn

TulsaFan said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was at the local Baroness Dealer today to price a few parts for the new mower and that had a few interesting pieces on the showroom floor that surprised me.
> 
> *LM101-22" Floating Head Greens Mower.* I saw this the other day on the Baroness Website and didn't realize they even offered one of these.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you ask the price of the LM101?
Click to expand...

No, I took the pictures as I was leaving and I'm sure it's WAY out of my price range


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## zeus201

Joined the Baroness family today. Went with LM56, came with groomer attachment and picked up detacher attachment for $150. Hour counter is missing, but overall, the machine looks quite new and fresh.... even the reel still has factory gold coating on the blades.

GM1000 will be relgated to backup duty going foward.

Thanks @TulsaFan for sharing the post and shear luck that I am 3 hours away from the seller.


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## bigmks

Sweet welcome to the family!!


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## Mightyquinn

Welcome to the Family!!! Can't wait to hear your thoughts


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## TulsaFan

zeus201 said:


> Joined the Baroness family today. Went with LM56, came with groomer attachment and picked up detacher attachment for $150. Hour counter is missing, but overall, the machine looks quite new and fresh.... even the reel still has factory gold coating on the blades.
> 
> GM1000 will be relgated to backup duty going foward.
> 
> Thanks @TulsaFan for sharing the post and shear luck that I am 3 hours away from the seller.


Looks great!!! I am very curious as to your thoughts on the Baroness after a few mows. So, keep us updated.

Hopefully, you can convince some others to join the Baroness family with your review!

Regarding the hour meter, the original ones have a non-replaceable battery and was probably dead. The gold on your reel blades tells you all you really need to know! :thumbup:


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## gpbrown60

Congrats!


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## TulsaFan

I found this quote on another thread...



zeus201 said:


> As for Toro specific parts, my brother-in law used to work for Toro and still has contacts there and can help get Toro specific parts at cost basically.


Talking about being a Judus! Not only does he have contacts for Toro parts at cost, but he switched to Baroness! :lol:

@zeus201, How is the Baroness working out for you? :thumbup:


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## zeus201

TulsaFan said:


> I found this quote on another thread...
> 
> 
> 
> zeus201 said:
> 
> 
> 
> As for Toro specific parts, my brother-in law used to work for Toro and still has contacts there and can help get Toro specific parts at cost basically.
> 
> 
> 
> Talking about being a Judus! Not only does he have contacts for Toro parts at cost, but he switched to Baroness! :lol:
> 
> @zeus201, How is the Baroness working out for you? :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Hahahahah....Judas

Mowed with Baronness twice now, and what a machine!!!. Night and day difference between LM56 and GM1000. LM56 feels so refined and smooth, like a fine wine, while my GM1000 feels like box'd wine...just gets the job done, nothing else. LM56 feels quite a bit heavier than the Toro. Currently cutting right below 1" but may end up going back to a lower HOC, but the strips 1" HOC LOOK way better imo!.

The learning curve coming from on/off reel lever on GM1000 to clutch style LM56 is taking some getting used to, especially when cutting around the trees in the backyard. It is also a challenge doing the smaller sections of my yard and ended just using the Toro instead. Other than that, I love the ability to change the groomers rotation direction. Adusting the HOC, reel to bedknife and groomer height was a breeze.

So glad I was able to get the this machine in near pristine condition...almost felt bad using it the first time. I'm going to keep in contact with Bryan up in MN. If these eventually keep sitting and they drop down the price, I'd be highly interseted in getting another one as backup.


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## TulsaFan

Always great to hear a different perspective from a converted Toro cult member! :lol:


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## TulsaFan

Anyone use their De-thatcher accessory attachment yet?

I switched out the groomer with it today. It exposed way too many runners in my bermuda in the back yard. I probably need to lower my HOC for it to be really effective.


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## Mightyquinn

What was your HOC for the dethatcher set at? I think it depends on how thick your Bermuda is too. I've used the dethatcher on the new mower on the first few mows with it set at .125" and I didn't have any issues.


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## gpbrown60

Haven't used my dethatcher one time since I got it. I have the groomer on now.


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## zeus201

Been using the groomer. May give it a try later in the season.

Random question, has anyone noticed lack of power when going up a small grades (5% or so) when using the High Frequency Clip Rate and groomer? I've noticed this a couple of times mowing my front yard while using the groomer in either direction. I tried it without the groomer going but really didn't notice a different. Backyard which is "flatter", not as obvious but just have to give it a little extra juice when getting going.

Ended up going back to low clip rate which still provide a great cut.

Just something I've encountered and wondering if anyone has?


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## Mightyquinn

What is your groomer set at?


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## gpbrown60

Can't say I have but will pay more attention the next time I cut. It could be awhile as we are going through somewhat of a drought.


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## zeus201

HOC @ 0.75"
Groomer @ ~0.6"

Should I set the groomer a bit higher?


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## Mightyquinn

I would say to set it lower, at your HOC, the groomer isn't going to really get low enough to cut the stolons and I'm not even sure with your grass mix, there are stolons to cut. The groomer will basically be used to help lift the grass blades for a more even cut.


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## TulsaFan

@Mightyquinn, @ajmikola, @ThomasPI, @zeus201,

It's about time to do some maintenance on my Baroness. You guys have a suggestion on how to replace the drive belts or tighten the chains?


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## ThomasPI

TulsaFan said:


> @Mightyquinn, @ajmikola, @ThomasPI, @zeus201,
> 
> It's about time to do some maintenance on my Baroness. You guys have a suggestion on how to replace the drive belts or tighten the chains?


If you have problems with a tight, twisted or frayed belt you can use a breaker bare to help you out :mrgreen:


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## Tmank87

Ha!

How often are you geasing though?


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## TulsaFan

There is a page on the manual that shows which zerks need it every 10 hours and the zerks that need it every 50 or 100 hours? I have only greased twice so far. Once, when I got it and about seven hours later when I realized I probably didn't use enough grease the first time.


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## Tmank87

Cool, thanks. Will Google the manual when the unit arrives to get her food and lubed up. Thanks for turning me (us) onto these.

Also turns out that one of their 5 (?) US dealers is about 3 hours from me. Works out pretty well.


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## SGrabs33

Tmank87 said:


> Cool, thanks. Will Google the manual when the unit arrives to get her food and lubed up. Thanks for turning me (us) onto these.
> 
> Also turns out that one of their 5 (?) US dealers is about 3 hours from me. Works out pretty well.


Prob over near Fayetteville and @Mightyquinn


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## Tmank87

That's right. It is in Fayetteville.

@Mightyquinn have you ever been by Eastern Turf? Didn't realize you were in the area.


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## Mightyquinn

Tmank87 said:


> Also turns out that one of their 5 (?) US dealers is about 3 hours from me. Works out pretty well.


Is it Eastern Turf Equipment in Fayetteville?  I've been in there more than I would like :thumbup:

As for the lubing of the mower I do it every 10/50 hours that is why an hour meter is so important to have!!

And to any worries on if you are over lubing the gears, I don't think there should be any concern. I removed the old 11 blade real from my original Baroness last weekend and had to remove the side plate with all the gears and here is what it looked like inside.


























In case if you were wondering why I am doing this, last year while I was mowing, I hit my back patio just right and it bent the bedknife up and the reel hit it and bent one of the blades. I was able to grind down the blade so it wouldn't hit anymore and replaced the bedknife to get it back into operation and I bought a new 9 blade reel but never got around to replacing it until now. Taking it out was fairly easy but I stripped one bolt out that holds in the bearing housing on the left side so I had to use an extractor to get it out and had another bolt that the head wore down on from mowing so close to my curbing around the house. That's why I am waiting until tomorrow to put everything back together, just got the bolts the other day. So if anyone needs any pointers or extra bolts please PM me or post in this thread and I will help as much as I can.


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## Mightyquinn

I forgot to add that all the grease you see is from greasing every 10 hours for the last 3 years.


----------



## Tmank87

Nice! I was actually just speaking with Adam over there today. He was pretty helpful. Was inquiring about the cost of a new bed knife and reel if it ever came to it.

What kind of grease are you gents using? I have the Lucas Red N Tacky - would that suffice or should I pick up something different?

Any of you guys have any videos operating these puppies? I'm sure it's not rocket science but I've never actually driven any GM and was wondering about the learning curve etc.

Thanks a bunch, appreciate all the insight.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Tmank87 said:


> Nice! I was actually just speaking with Adam over there today. He was pretty helpful. Was inquiring about the cost of a new bed knife and reel if it ever came to it.
> 
> What kind of grease are you gents using? I have the Lucas Red N Tacky - would that suffice or should I pick up something different?
> 
> Any of you guys have any videos operating these puppies? I'm sure it's not rocket science but I've never actually driven any GM and was wondering about the learning curve etc.
> 
> Thanks a bunch, appreciate all the insight.


Adam is the owner of the business, he took it over from his father a few years ago I think, he use to be the fertilizer salesman and never wanted to sell me anything but what he wanted, so I quit asking what they had  . I usually talk to Jeff or John when I get parts. Jeff is the parts guy and John is the equipment salesman.

I have been using Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty grease from day one but I would think any NGLI #2 will work just fine.

I don't have any videos on the operation of the mower but it's fairly easy to learn the controls, just be sure to "test" it out in a wide open area until you get comfortable(it won't take long  )


----------



## Tmank87

Ha, thanks. Adam was definitely pretty to the point and I had to butter him up a bit to get him going. He was (understandably) in a bit of a rush to get out to Pinehurst to try to sell a few TriPlex machines. Said when I got the unit he'd be happy to help me out if he could. We will see!


----------



## Mightyquinn

BTW, new bedknives are anywhere between $95-$150 and a new reel is somewhere around $750. As great as these machines are, the parts are NOT cheap . I've always found it good to have an extra bedknife on hand as it's saved my butt more than once. It seems that the bedknife will break before the reel will. When you start mowing reel low, it's amazing at what your mower will find!


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Also turns out that one of their 5 (?) US dealers is about 3 hours from me. Works out pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> Is it Eastern Turf Equipment in Fayetteville?  I've been in there more than I would like :thumbup:
> 
> As for the lubing of the mower I do it every 10/50 hours that is why an hour meter is so important to have!!
> 
> And to any worries on if you are over lubing the gears, I don't think there should be any concern. I removed the old 11 blade real from my original Baroness last weekend and had to remove the side plate with all the gears and here is what it looked like inside.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In case if you were wondering why I am doing this, last year while I was mowing, I hit my back patio just right and it bent the bedknife up and the reel hit it and bent one of the blades. I was able to grind down the blade so it wouldn't hit anymore and replaced the bedknife to get it back into operation and I bought a new 9 blade reel but never got around to replacing it until now. Taking it out was fairly easy but I stripped one bolt out that holds in the bearing housing on the left side so I had to use an extractor to get it out and had another bolt that the head wore down on from mowing so close to my curbing around the house. That's why I am waiting until tomorrow to put everything back together, just got the bolts the other day. So if anyone needs any pointers or extra bolts please PM me or post in this thread and I will help as much as I can.
Click to expand...

Those gears remind me of a fine Swiss Japanese watch! :lol:


----------



## Mightyquinn

LOL @TulsaFan

I didn't see any wear at all on the gears. I will try to take some more pictures tomorrow when I put it all back together. I cleaned as much of the grease out of there already and plan to give it a good coating before putting the cover back on.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

How would you guys rate the cost of ownership and maintenance for a Baroness vs a JD 220e? I'm highly considering these mowers and @TulsaFan made a good pitch to me. I'm looking to keep around 1" HOC. I like how the 220e has a higher range for HOC, but you guys make it sound like a Baroness to a JD is like a Cadillac to a Ford.


----------



## zeus201

TulsaFan said:


> @Mightyquinn, @ajmikola, @ThomasPI, @zeus201,
> 
> It's about time to do some maintenance on my Baroness. You guys have a suggestion on how to replace the drive belts or tighten the chains?


Hahahahaha


----------



## TulsaFan

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> How would you guys rate the cost of ownership and maintenance for a Baroness vs a JD 220e? I'm highly considering these mowers and @TulsaFan made a good pitch to me. I'm looking to keep around 1" HOC. I like how the 220e has a higher range for HOC, but you guys make it sound like a Baroness to a JD is like a Cadillac to a Ford.


Reel low is a virus! I don't hear too many people raising their HOC. Most are pushing the limits of their lawn to go even lower.

I would make the comparison of a Lexus to a Ford. :lol:


----------



## ThomasPI

Tmank87 said:


> Cool, thanks. Will Google the manual when the unit arrives to get her food and lubed up. Thanks for turning me (us) onto these.
> 
> Also turns out that one of their 5 (?) US dealers is about 3 hours from me. Works out pretty well.


Glad it worked out for you :thumbup: Which size did you go with ?


----------



## Mightyquinn

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> How would you guys rate the cost of ownership and maintenance for a Baroness vs a JD 220e? I'm highly considering these mowers and @TulsaFan made a good pitch to me. I'm looking to keep around 1" HOC. I like how the 220e has a higher range for HOC, but you guys make it sound like a Baroness to a JD is like a Cadillac to a Ford.


I've never owned a JD Greens mower but as for the cost of ownership is pretty low as long as you don't do any damage to the mower itself. There isn't much to do except for greasing it every 10 hours and changing the oil once a year. You will need to occasionally adjust the reel to bedknife or give it a quick backlapping but other than that you shouldn't really need to do much else for routine maintenance. If you get one with a fairly new reel on it, you shouldn't have to worry about getting it sharpened for at least 3-5 years.


----------



## Tmank87

ThomasPI said:


> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Cool, thanks. Will Google the manual when the unit arrives to get her food and lubed up. Thanks for turning me (us) onto these.
> 
> Also turns out that one of their 5 (?) US dealers is about 3 hours from me. Works out pretty well.
> 
> 
> 
> Glad it worked out for you :thumbup: Which size did you go with ?
Click to expand...

Ended up going 26. Getting it all finalized in the am. We've agreed in principal on the sale and shipping front. The shipping contact was clutch, thanks :thumbup:


----------



## TulsaFan

Congrats on the 26"! Welcome to the laziest maintenance group on TLF! :thumbup:


----------



## Tmank87

Ha, that's my kind of maintenance program. It's also why I am partial to my actual Lexus! Hoping this Japanese brand is built similarly!


----------



## zeus201

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> How would you guys rate the cost of ownership and maintenance for a Baroness vs a JD 220e? I'm highly considering these mowers and @TulsaFan made a good pitch to me. I'm looking to keep around 1" HOC. I like how the 220e has a higher range for HOC, but you guys make it sound like a Baroness to a JD is like a Cadillac to a Ford.


I do not have a JD but those 220e are nice machines as well. Outside of JD being awfully proud of their parts and pricing them as such, I've heard the electrical parts on those can cost you quite a bit.

These were the biggest selling points for me: 
- Maintenance consist of lubing at specific hours, occasional backlap, check / adjust clutch engagement and grind after several years of use. No belts or chains to mess with. Oh yeah, maybe filling the tires up with air when needed :lol: 
- Ability to change the frequence of cut. I believe the JD 220e has bit more adjustably other than high or low on the Baroness, but it honetly works. I keep mine on low, but have used the high and there is a noticeble difference. 
- Attachments are breeze to change out and you can change the direction they rotate (foward or reverse). 
- Clutch engagement makes for much smoother starts.
- Plus they are red, which is my favorite color lol.

Reel mowing is an addiction albiet a spendy one if you break something regardless of brand. Man, if I had a warm season turf, I'd be mowing that thing around 0.50" if not shorter. Leave the 1" HOC for us nothern folk.

1" on warm season turf! If I had a warm season grass, for sure being trying to go as low as possible. But, 


Mightyquinn said:


> BTW, new bedknives are anywhere between $95-$150 and a new reel is somewhere around $750. As great as these machines are, the parts are NOT cheap . I've always found it good to have an extra bedknife on hand as it's saved my butt more than once. It seems that the bedknife will break before the reel will. When you start mowing reel low, it's amazing at what your mower will find!


Constantly walking the lawn looking for reel or bedknife damaging objects. Wife decided to landscape one of the gardenbed drainspouts with river rock in various sizes which leads to end of the turf. Lamented to her please use larger rocks which will not get washed down into the grass. Been using my GM1000 to do the all of the trim passes as reel and bedknifes are much cheaper to replace.

BTW, where are you sourcing Baroness parts? My area is devoid of dealers and I assume I'd have to call Baroness for parts.

Also, what grit are people using to backlap?


----------



## TulsaFan

Tmank87 said:


> Ha, that's my kind of maintenance program. It's also why I am partial to my actual Lexus! Hoping this Japanese brand is built similarly!


I have owned several Lexi and one Ford. I meant that analagy.


----------



## Tmank87

That makes me even happier


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

TulsaFan said:


> Reel low is a virus! I don't hear too many people raising their HOC. Most are pushing the limits of their lawn to go even lower.
> 
> I would make the comparison of a Lexus to a Ford. :lol:


I'd go for a sub 1" lawn if I could keep up with the mowing, but life is too busy at the moment. 

@Mightyquinn Good to know that the maintenance isn't much, but those replacement parts are quite expensive!

@zeus201 I really go back and forth between the mowers with their pros and cons. Ultimately, I think I'd be satisfied with either. I just need to take the plunge. Deciding between them is hard, but convincing the wife will be harder. :lol:


----------



## TulsaFan

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Reel low is a virus! I don't hear too many people raising their HOC. Most are pushing the limits of their lawn to go even lower.
> 
> I would make the comparison of a Lexus to a Ford. :lol:
> 
> 
> 
> I'd go for a sub 1" lawn if I could keep up with the mowing, but life is too busy at the moment.
> 
> @Mightyquinn Good to know that the maintenance isn't much, but those replacement parts are quite expensive!
> 
> @zeus201 I really go back and forth between the mowers with their pros and cons. Ultimately, I think I'd be satisfied with either. I just need to take the plunge. Deciding between them is hard, but convincing the wife will be harder. :lol:
Click to expand...

I am mowing every other day at 7am. It is fantastic. Very cool in the morning and my neighbors don't mind. The Honda GX120 is pretty quite. My power rotary scissors is what makes the most noise...along with the blower. I have PGR, but I am holding off until my grass fills in from the grubs.


----------



## ThomasPI

Mower is on the way and a big thanks to @TulsaFan and @bigmks for everything :mrgreen:


----------



## gpbrown60

ThomasPI said:


> Mower is on the way and a big thanks to @TulsaFan and @bigmks for everything :mrgreen:
> 
> :thumbup:


----------



## Mightyquinn

Congrats on the new mower @ThomasPI !!!! Can't wait to hear what you think about it 

As for an update on changing out my reel on the Baroness, I finished everything up yesterday and got it all back together and it ran and operated just fine :thumbup:. I do wish the manual was translated a little better as you have to read it over and over again to make sure you are doing it correctly. It wasn't that difficult of a job and you don't really need any specialized tools to get it done. I think the hardest part while removing the reel was getting the bedknife bar off of the adjustment arms. If you look under the mower to the right and left of the bedknife you will see (2) 13mm bolts that hold the adjusting arms onto the bedknife bar, that arm slides down into the bedknife bar and it was corroded in there so I had to sacrifice a 10mm deep well socket to hammer it out. I ended up sanding down both ends do it would slide in there better during installation and I also added a coat of anti-seize compound to help facilitate the removal if and when it ever comes to it. The only other "minor" issue I had was removing the side cover as it was on there really good but I just went around the edges with a rubber mallet to help break the seal. Replacing the reel bearings and races was pretty straight forward too as they came out with very little effort and the new ones went back in the same way.

During installation, the only issue I had was making sure I installed the bedknife bar correctly by following all the steps, they are not very clear on everything so it took some deciphering to figure out what exactly I needed to do. Once I figured it out it fairly simple process. There are a lot of brass washers/spaces on this thing so make sure you take pictures while you are taking it apart and make notes of where they all go. I didn't have too many issues here but I could see it being an issue if you didn't know, the grease does help keep everything in place though . I did have to use the rubber mallet to tap the side cover back on as there are some fittings on the cover that are a snug fit. Oh yeah, one more thing, the FOC adjuster knob threw me off too as I had to stick a screwdriver in the hole to pull the gear out so that the rod on the selector switch would line up correctly and function properly. I ended up cleaning as much of the old grease off all the gears and plates as I could and recoated everything in new grease and then once everything was put back together I hit all the zerk fittings with a good 4-5 pumps of grease just to make sure. If anyone has to tackle this in the future, feel free to PM me and I will do my best to talk you through it.

Sorry I didn't take that many pictures as I was too focused on getting it done and forgot all about it. I will say it is AMAZING how well this thing cuts when you have a new reel and bedknife on it. It was literally like cutting paper with a razor blade or a brand new high end knife. I installed the 5mm Tipped bedknife (K2510000160) which is the thickest bedknife Baroness offers. I'm going to wait to cut with it since I just added some sand in a few spots in the lawn so once those grow in I will take it for it's maiden voyage.


----------



## ThomasPI

Thanks @Mightyquinn going to pick it up Monday. We use a lawn service in our current rental house and I don't dare try to cut this lawn with the Baroness. We signed the contract to build our new house and waiting on the lender to do their thing. When your self employed they want a ton of documents and your first born LOL. I gave them everything so we wait for closing hopefully within a month. Won't put the mower to use till the Spring but one less thing to deal with and it was a hell of a deal.


----------



## ThomasPI

A question, what are owners using as a stand for service to adjust HOC or just to work in the mower ? @TulsaFan or @Mightyquinn ?


----------



## TulsaFan

ThomasPI said:


> A question, what are owners using as a stand for service to adjust HOC or just to work in the mower ? @TulsaFan or @Mightyquinn ?


HOC adjustment doesn't require a stand. So far, I typically lean it back against the handle bar for adjustments. I do use a kneeling pad to protect the handle bar from the concrete.

Did you buy the Accu-gage from BigMKS?


----------



## Mightyquinn

ThomasPI said:


> A question, what are owners using as a stand for service to adjust HOC or just to work in the mower ? @TulsaFan or @Mightyquinn ?


Transport wheels :thumbup:


----------



## bigmks

TulsaFan said:


> ThomasPI said:
> 
> 
> 
> A question, what are owners using as a stand for service to adjust HOC or just to work in the mower ? @TulsaFan or @Mightyquinn ?
> 
> 
> 
> HOC adjustment doesn't require a stand. So far, I typically lean it back against the handle bar for adjustments. I do use a kneeling pad to protect the handle bar from the concrete.
> 
> Did you buy the Accu-gage from BigMKS?
Click to expand...

Yes I sold it to him as well. @mightyquinn told me it was a good investment. Just remember to keep the transport wheel on when adjusting.


----------



## ThomasPI

Thanks to all, now I just wait for construction to start.


----------



## MOCcock8

Which compound are you guys using to backlap? Looks like I'm getting the LM66 from Bryan. Also, anyone want to do a video or tell me best way for HOC? Thanks!


----------



## Mightyquinn

MOCcock8 said:


> Which compound are you guys using to backlap? Looks like I'm getting the LM66 from Bryan. Also, anyone want to do a video or tell me best way for HOC? Thanks!


For the lapping compound, you can get some Pinhigh 220 grit or some Clover compound. I use Clover 400 grit compound and I believe @TulsaFan uses 600 grit.

Adjusting the HOC is easy but you will need to have a HOC bar. You can either make one yourself or buy one from Accu-gauge or R&R. Just do a search for DIY HOC here on TLF and you should get some hits.


----------



## TulsaFan

I have Pinhigh 220 grit as well as the Clover 600 grit compound. I ordered 400 grit and was sent the wrong one. When I asked someone's opinion who I trust, he told me to keep the Clover 600 rather than send it back.


----------



## ThomasPI

Back lapping ? How often are y'all back lapping your Baroness mowers? Granted everyone will have a different answer but just looking for a general idea. Assuming mowing say 2 to 3X per week.


----------



## Mightyquinn

All that is usually required is a minor adjustment to the reel and bedknife.


----------



## ThomasPI

Mightyquinn said:


> All that is usually required is a minor adjustment to the reel and bedknife.


Thanks @Mightyquinn :thumbup:


----------



## MOCcock8

Officially a baroness owner now! It'll probably be shipped next week. Only one more LM66 left from Bryan. Now next year I might have to see how much to add a groomer.


----------



## MOCcock8

Should I get 220 and 400? Pin high has both.


----------



## ThomasPI

MOCcock8 said:


> Officially a baroness owner now! It'll probably be shipped next week. Only one more LM66 left from Bryan. Now next year I might have to see how much to add a groomer.


Congrats I'd get the 220 and see about the 600. Pick mine up in the morning but it'll sit till Spring when new house is done. Clover 600 compound that is.


----------



## ctrav

zeus201 said:


> Joined the Baroness family today. Went with LM56, came with groomer attachment and picked up detacher attachment for $150. Hour counter is missing, but overall, the machine looks quite new and fresh.... even the reel still has factory gold coating on the blades.
> 
> GM1000 will be relgated to backup duty going foward.
> 
> Thanks @TulsaFan for sharing the post and shear luck that I am 3 hours away from the seller.


Big CONGRATS as that looks like a sweet machine!! :thumbup:


----------



## TulsaFan

MOCcock8 said:


> Should I get 220 and 400? Pin high has both.


Fyi...the manual calls for 400 grit. A Baroness tech told me I could use 220 grit. Someone on TLF suggested I keep the 600 grit.


----------



## MOCcock8

TulsaFan said:


> MOCcock8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Should I get 220 and 400? Pin high has both.
> 
> 
> 
> Fyi...the manual calls for 400 grit. A Baroness tech told me I could use 220 grit. Someone on TLF suggested I keep the 600 grit.
Click to expand...


Might just get both..says #200-400


----------



## TulsaFan

MOCcock8 said:


> Officially a baroness owner now! It'll probably be shipped next week. Only one more LM66 left from Bryan. Now next year I might have to see how much to add a groomer.


Congrats by the way!!! :thumbup:

A dethatcher for the 22" was going to cost me $900 plus shipping from Baroness. I would check with Byan and see if he can get it cheaper for you.


----------



## ThomasPI

Mission complete just picked up the Baroness and it's in the garage.


----------



## ctrav

ThomasPI said:


> Mission complete just picked up the Baroness and it's in the garage.


Congrats on the new reel....pics plz


----------



## ThomasPI

Will do within a few days. It's pretty much going to sit until our new house is done in the Spring. It's basically a new mower with maybe 3 to 4 hours on it and too good to pass on.


----------



## ISU

Congrats! Picking up mine on Tuesday.


----------



## Tmank87

Mine just got here tonight. Havent really had a chance to look it over and take pictures. First impressions I am pleased. Bigger than I thought!

Would anyone mind posting a picture of how the handle is assembled from behind?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Tmank87 said:


> Mine just got here tonight. Havent really had a chance to look it over and take pictures. First impressions I am pleased. Bigger than I thought!
> 
> Would anyone mind posting a picture of how the handle is assembled from behind?


Does this help?

Baroness Handle Bar Connection


----------



## Tmank87

Yes, thank you!


----------



## Tmank87

Just got the handle put on. Need to change the oil and gas and get her fired up. In my novice opinion, reel appears to be in good shape. She needs a good bath!


----------



## ThomasPI

Just spent a couple of hours giving the mower a cleaning. The engineering and workmanship in these mowers is amazing and coming from and engineering background I can appreciate it. This mower is like new, paint still on parts of the reel. Big thanks to @TulsaFan for pointing this out and to @bigmks for making this a smooth transaction.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Tmank87 said:


> Just got the handle put on. Need to change the oil and gas and get her fired up. In my novice opinion, reel appears to be in good shape. She needs a good bath!


Looking good and can't wait to see the pics after you clean her up :thumbup: I will say it looks odd without a groomer or verticutter on it, I guess I have never seen one without it. I also wonder what the white paint on the roller is for? My guess would be the overlap for mowing the tee boxes?


----------



## Tmank87

What grease gun "attachment" are you gents using to grease the zerks? I have a grease gun, but not sure what is best to grease the needle like opening. I'm a grease novice, at best.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Tmank87 said:


> What grease gun "attachment" are you gents using to grease the zerks? I have a grease gun, but not sure what is best to grease the needle like opening. I'm a grease novice, at best.


I'm using whatever came on my grease gun and it works just fine. I don't think there is any need to buy something special unless you want to.


----------



## zeus201

ThomasPI said:


> Just spent a couple of hours giving the mower a cleaning. The engineering and workmanship in these mowers is amazing and coming from and engineering background I can appreciate it. This mower is like new, paint still on parts of the reel. Big thanks to @TulsaFan for pointing this out and to @bigmks for making this a smooth transaction.


Pristine condition!!!


----------



## ThomasPI

zeus201 said:


> ThomasPI said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just spent a couple of hours giving the mower a cleaning. The engineering and workmanship in these mowers is amazing and coming from and engineering background I can appreciate it. This mower is like new, paint still on parts of the reel. Big thanks to @TulsaFan for pointing this out and to @bigmks for making this a smooth transaction.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pristine condition!!!
Click to expand...

Thanks it's pretty clean, cuts paper like a knife thru butter and starts 1st pull.


----------



## crzipilot

Tmank87 said:


> Just got the handle put on. Need to change the oil and gas and get her fired up. In my novice opinion, reel appears to be in good shape. She needs a good bath!


Nice, let me know when your tired of it and ready to move on to something else....hahaha


----------



## Tmank87

Come on over and cut it for me!


----------



## ISU

She's on her way home ...she's a beast!


----------



## TulsaFan

ISU said:


> She's on her way home ...she's a beast!


Congrats! :thumbup:

It is hard to explain how wide a 26" mower truly is unless you have seen one in person.


----------



## ThomasPI

TulsaFan said:


> ISU said:
> 
> 
> 
> She's on her way home ...she's a beast!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats! :thumbup:
> 
> It is hard to explain how wide a 26" mower truly is unless you have seen one in person.
Click to expand...

You ain't kidding. Mine ran edge to edge on the pallet, glad I am building a 3 car garage.


----------



## UFG8RMIKE

Without a doubt, that's the best looking greens mower out there. Like the Ferrari of mowers. Only downside, I hear they cost just about as much to fix.

.


----------



## Mightyquinn

UFG8RMIKE said:


> Without a doubt, that's the best looking greens mower out there. Like the Ferrari of mowers. Only downside, I hear they cost just about as much to fix.


I think they are a little more expensive to fix but not Ferrari expensive  Usually if you need to fix it though, it was self inflicted


----------



## ISU

I lucked out on this unit, looks new to me. the reel and bed knife are very sharp still...cuts paper very smooth. Bryan said he would be shocked if I need to replace the bed knife within 3yrs (for a home owner usage, 2-3x week mow). Said if anything all it may just need down the road would be to get it sharpen if issues cutting. (Finding a place that will do it around here for when the time comes might be tough).

This weekend I will take it on my very first reel mow (bringing HOC from 1.5" to 1" on my KBG mix) but so far I'm really impressed with the condition it's in, it's basically new.

She cleans up nice too :thumbup:


----------



## zeus201

Looks mint! One of the few I have seen without attachments. Did it come with the basketcatcher?

Supposedly Briarwood has Foley stones, but have not confirmed myself.


----------



## Startingout

Beautiful machines. Ive been searching for a good shipper but haven't had that great of luck getting a quote to any shippers going out west. Anyone care to pm me?


----------



## andynese

Bought the LM-56, should be here Thursday. Biggest problem with it; Bryan told me it was a demo still has the gold coating on the reel. However, it was missing the bedknife bar and bed knife along with the bolts/ nuts. Already purchased them from Baroness. Has anyone changed or at least put the bed bar back together? Mainly asking for some tips.

Also, how are y'all adjusting the groomers HOC? And what oil and grease are y'all using? Any tips on what I should also do when I get it other than change the oil and gas. Also planning on installing a new hour meter since the one on the mower either doesn't work or is out of battery; did y'all have this issue? Thanks in advance and sorry for all the questions; new to reel mowing.


----------



## Mightyquinn

andynese said:


> Bought the LM-56, should be here Thursday. Biggest problem with it; Bryan told me it was a demo still has the gold coating on the reel. However, it was missing the bedknife bar and bed knife along with the bolts/ nuts. Already purchased them from Baroness. Has anyone changed or at least put the bed bar back together? Mainly asking for some tips.
> 
> Also, how are y'all adjusting the groomers HOC? And what oil and grease are y'all using? Any tips on what I should also do when I get it other than change the oil and gas. Also planning on installing a new hour meter since the one on the mower either doesn't work or is out of battery; did y'all have this issue? Thanks in advance and sorry for all the questions; new to reel mowing.


I just replaced the reel in mine the other week and had to remove the bedknife bar so I will try to do a how to for it this week. If I forget by the time you get the parts just PM me to remind me. :thumbup: The instructions in the manual are a little confusing but if you read over it several times you can figure it out.

For the HOC on the groomer, I have an Accu-Gauge groomer gauge to adjust mine. For the hour meter, I bought a Hardline hour meter off Amazon and it works great.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Startingout said:


> Beautiful machines. Ive been searching for a good shipper but haven't had that great of luck getting a quote to any shippers going out west. Anyone care to pm me?


I used freightcenter.com to get a quote on both of mine.


----------



## ISU

zeus201 said:


> Looks mint! One of the few I have seen without attachments. Did it come with the basketcatcher?
> 
> Supposedly Briarwood has Foley stones, but have not confirmed myself.


Yeah it came with the basket, I don't think any of the 26" had any attachments. At least non of the wider units had them on. I meant to ask Bryan while I was there to see if I could get one but completely forgot now that you mention it. My assumption is they just didn't use them for the lm66 units?


----------



## ISU

Has anyone tried the 22"units without a groomer/verticutter? Now I'm wondering if I will run into scalp issues due the wider gap between reel/bedknife to the front roller when not having an attachment. I hope not the case but will find out over the weekend once I take it for its first mow.


----------



## Startingout

ISU said:


> zeus201 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks mint! One of the few I have seen without attachments. Did it come with the basketcatcher?
> 
> Supposedly Briarwood has Foley stones, but have not confirmed myself.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it came with the basket, I don't think any of the 26" had any attachments. At least non of the wider units had them on. I meant to ask Bryan while I was there to see if I could get one but completely forgot now that you mention it. My assumption is they just didn't use them for the lm66 units?
Click to expand...

Speaking with the Baroness representative today, he mentioned that attendants would not normally use the groomer attachment for the lm66 due to them cutting primarily tees (except in Japan). He would even caution against buying one unless absolutely necessary, or if I was hosting a golf tournament in my yard. His suggestion was to get cutting and get comfortable with the mower and if in the future it was needed, then contact a dealer, or factory if no dealers service your area.

Beyond that, appreciate the help with the shipping recommendations. I was able to grab a lm66 with $250 shipping from Minnesota to Washington.

Looking forward to the upgrade from a McClane 20 to this Bad Larry!

Edit - and murphy showed up shortly after I submitted this post and the carrier came back and stated that they assumed the pallet would be framed in. Shipping came in at $420. :bandit:


----------



## ISU

Startingout said:


> ISU said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> zeus201 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks mint! One of the few I have seen without attachments. Did it come with the basketcatcher?
> 
> Supposedly Briarwood has Foley stones, but have not confirmed myself.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it came with the basket, I don't think any of the 26" had any attachments. At least non of the wider units had them on. I meant to ask Bryan while I was there to see if I could get one but completely forgot now that you mention it. My assumption is they just didn't use them for the lm66 units?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Speaking with the Baroness representative today, he mentioned that attendants would not normally use the groomer attachment for the lm66 due to them cutting primarily tees (except in Japan). He would even caution against buying one unless absolutely necessary, or if I was hosting a golf tournament in my yard. His suggestion was to get cutting and get comfortable with the mower and if in the future it was needed, then contact a dealer, or factory if no dealers service your area.
> 
> Beyond that, appreciate the help with the shipping recommendations. I was able to grab a lm66 with $250 shipping from Minnesota to Washington.
> 
> Looking forward to the upgrade from a McClane 20 to this Bad Larry!
Click to expand...

Awesome thanks for info! Congrats on the new mower.


----------



## ThomasPI

Going once, going twice and .......


----------



## Tmank87

ISU said:


> I lucked out on this unit, looks new to me. the reel and bed knife are very sharp still...cuts paper very smooth. Bryan said he would be shocked if I need to replace the bed knife within 3yrs (for a home owner usage, 2-3x week mow). Said if anything all it may just need down the road would be to get it sharpen if issues cutting. (Finding a place that will do it around here for when the time comes might be tough).
> 
> This weekend I will take it on my very first reel mow (bringing HOC from 1.5" to 1" on my KBG mix) but so far I'm really impressed with the condition it's in, it's basically new.
> 
> She cleans up nice too :thumbup:


Man, that does look new. My unit is no where close in terms of condition.


----------



## TulsaFan

Tmank87 said:


> What grease gun "attachment" are you gents using to grease the zerks? I have a grease gun, but not sure what is best to grease the needle like opening. I'm a grease novice, at best.


For the Baroness, I bought another  grease gun for $11 from Atwoods. Then, I bought a LocknLube coupler for $30. :?

However, the LockNLube was worth it to me. Very simple to attach and remove and kept the grease on the zerks and off of everything else! :thumbup:


----------



## Ware

TulsaFan said:


> ...Then, I bought a LocknLube coupler for $30. :?
> 
> However, the LockNLube was worth it to me. Very simple to attach and remove and kept the grease on the zerks and off of everything else! :thumbup:


That's pretty slick. I need to order one of those. :thumbup:


----------



## ThomasPI

Ware said:


> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...Then, I bought a LocknLube coupler for $30. :?
> 
> However, the LockNLube was worth it to me. Very simple to attach and remove and kept the grease on the zerks and off of everything else! :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> That's pretty slick. I need to order one of those. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

X 2 ordering tomorrow.


----------



## ISU

Need confirmation if this is normal or not, first time greasing anything and to me looks the grease just spills out the grease gun but not inside the zerks, is this normal? See images. Do I need a different attachment on the grease gun? To me just feels like no grease goes in but just spills out.


----------



## Mightyquinn

ISU said:


> Has anyone tried the 22"units without a groomer/verticutter? Now I'm wondering if I will run into scalp issues due the wider gap between reel/bedknife to the front roller when not having an attachment. I hope not the case but will find out over the weekend once I take it for its first mow.


The gap will be there with or without the groomer/verticutter but they are still pretty close together and the chances of it causing a scalping issue is really low.


----------



## Mightyquinn

ISU said:


> Need confirmation if this is normal or not, first time greasing anything and to me looks the grease just spills out the grease gun but not inside the zerks, is this normal? See images. Do I need a different attachment on the grease gun? To me just feels like no grease goes in but just spills out.


How many pumps is that? Is the fitting on the end of the grease gun screwed in tight? I rarely ever have any issues with the grease going into the zerk fittings. You might also want to get a pin or a pick and work the "ball" in the middle of the zerk fitting loose.


----------



## ISU

Mightyquinn said:


> ISU said:
> 
> 
> 
> Need confirmation if this is normal or not, first time greasing anything and to me looks the grease just spills out the grease gun but not inside the zerks, is this normal? See images. Do I need a different attachment on the grease gun? To me just feels like no grease goes in but just spills out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How many pumps is that? Is the fitting on the end of the grease gun screwed in tight? I rarely ever have any issues with the grease going into the zerk fittings. You might also want to get a pin or a pick and work the "ball" in the middle of the zerk fitting loose.
Click to expand...

It's just one pump. So should the little pin ball in the center of the zerks be pushed in? Perhaps that's block the grease from going in.


----------



## Mightyquinn

That ball is on a spring, so when the grease is pushed in there the ball goes in and allows the grease into the fitting. If there isn't a good seal or the ball is stuck, the grease will push out the sides. If the metal cap on the end of the grease gun isn't tight it will do the same thing since it doesn't have a tight seal.


----------



## ISU

Thanks the tip, I think I have it figured out now. I pushed the little ball in and then greased it again and that did the trick! Looks the little ball on each zerk was just stock a bit initially not allowing for the grease to go in. that and the fact that I was initially squeezing the gun really slow at first seem to not private sufficient force for the grease to push the ball in to allow it inside the zerks. Gave it a nice pump action and grease went in. Just never used a grease gun before so learning as I go.


----------



## learnt

Startingout said:


> ISU said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> zeus201 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks mint! One of the few I have seen without attachments. Did it come with the basketcatcher?
> 
> Supposedly Briarwood has Foley stones, but have not confirmed myself.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it came with the basket, I don't think any of the 26" had any attachments. At least non of the wider units had them on. I meant to ask Bryan while I was there to see if I could get one but completely forgot now that you mention it. My assumption is they just didn't use them for the lm66 units?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Speaking with the Baroness representative today, he mentioned that attendants would not normally use the groomer attachment for the lm66 due to them cutting primarily tees (except in Japan). He would even caution against buying one unless absolutely necessary, or if I was hosting a golf tournament in my yard. His suggestion was to get cutting and get comfortable with the mower and if in the future it was needed, then contact a dealer, or factory if no dealers service your area.
> 
> Beyond that, appreciate the help with the shipping recommendations. I was able to grab a lm66 with $250 shipping from Minnesota to Washington.
> 
> Looking forward to the upgrade from a McClane 20 to this Bad Larry!
> 
> Edit - and murphy showed up shortly after I submitted this post and the carrier came back and stated that they assumed the pallet would be framed in. Shipping came in at $420. :bandit:
Click to expand...

@Startingout

Hi! Just curious how you set up shipping... please just let me know. Trying to secure unit with Bryan!... unless shipping costs will be too high.


----------



## ThomasPI

If anyone needs a great shipping co, PM me. I shipped my mower from SC to FL with 5K of insurance for $280.


----------



## andynese

Yes, Thomas is the man with a plan when it came to getting mine shipped! Can't thank him enough! @ThomasPI


----------



## ThomasPI

andynese said:


> Yes, Thomas is the man with a plan when it came to getting mine shipped! Can't thank him enough! @ThomasPI


Glad it worked out for you :thumbup:


----------



## andynese

How do I get this to free roll? It seems like the brakes are always on no matter what I press.


----------



## TulsaFan

Release the hand brake.


----------



## Mightyquinn

andynese said:


> How do I get this to free roll? It seems like the brakes are always on no matter what I press.


Rotate the selector switch to "TRAVEL OFF" and make sure the hand brake is released :thumbup:


----------



## andynese

How?? @TulsaFan


----------



## ThomasPI

TulsaFan said:


> Release the hand brake.


And before you do anything else, download user manual :thumbup:


----------



## andynese

How do I release the hand brake? Been reading this manual and nothing seems to works.


----------



## TulsaFan

Squeeze it really hard! I am not at home to take a picture for you!

Edited for pics...
This is a photo of the parking brake in the locked position:


This is a photo of the parking brake not applied:


----------



## Mightyquinn

TulsaFan said:


> Squeeze it really hard! I am not at home to take a picture for you!


It's like a parking brake in a car, you have to compress it all the way down before it releases. I use mine as a theft deterrent if I have to leave the mower out front and go to the back yard for something  No one is going to figure it out in time and you definitely can't pick the thing up :lol:


----------



## TulsaFan

Don't feel stupid when you figure it out. I applied the brake once to keep from hitting my mailbox and couldn't get my mower to move. It took me way too long to figure out the brake was locked into position!!! :? :shock: :lol:

@Mightyquinn It should be called a theft deterrent and not a brake! :thumbup:


----------



## Mightyquinn

TulsaFan said:


> Don't feel stupid when you figure it out. I applied the brake once to keep from hitting my mailbox and couldn't get my mower to move. It took me way too long to figure out the brake was locked into position!!! :? :shock: :lol:
> 
> @Mightyquinn It should be called a theft deterrent and not a brake! :thumbup:


I'm guilty of this too. I've put the brake on before to clean it and then went to move it and couldn't figure out what was wrong until I had a "AHA" moment. :lol:


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Don't feel stupid when you figure it out. I applied the brake once to keep from hitting my mailbox and couldn't get my mower to move. It took me way too long to figure out the brake was locked into position!!! :? :shock: :lol:
> 
> @Mightyquinn It should be called a theft deterrent and not a brake! :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm guilty of this too. I've put the brake on before to clean it and then went to move it and couldn't figure out what was wrong until I had a "AHA" moment. :lol:
Click to expand...

Before my "AHA" moment, I was feeling uncontrolled PANIC that the Baroness was down!!! :shock:


----------



## andynese

Thank you fellas! It worked, took me an hour of fiddling/ panicking before I decided to consult y'all.


----------



## ISU

Haha I was guilty of this the day I picked it up! Felt like I was going to break that plastic handle off was pressing so hard and the brake wouldn't release still.

Well I took her out for her first mow tonight as I couldn't wait until the weekend...it handles beautifully! Definitely a learning curve for never having used a reel mower before but not too bad. The backyard was a breeze however the front will be more of a challenge to get used to mowing being smaller. Now I just need to get 22" just to use on front!😁

Over all this thing is just awesome and glad purchased one.


----------



## ThomasPI

Looks great and congrats.


----------



## TulsaFan

ISU said:


> Haha I was guilty of this the day I picked it up! Felt like I was going to break that plastic handle off was pressing so hard and the brake wouldn't release still.
> 
> Well I took her out for her first mow tonight as I couldn't wait until the weekend...it handles beautifully! Definitely a learning curve for never having used a reel mower before but not too bad. The backyard was a breeze however the front will be more of a challenge to get used to mowing being smaller. Now I just need to get 22" just to use on front!😁
> 
> Over all this thing is just awesome and glad purchased one.


How does this compare to your Toro Greensmaster?


----------



## ISU

TulsaFan said:


> ISU said:
> 
> 
> 
> Haha I was guilty of this the day I picked it up! Felt like I was going to break that plastic handle off was pressing so hard and the brake wouldn't release still.
> 
> Well I took her out for her first mow tonight as I couldn't wait until the weekend...it handles beautifully! Definitely a learning curve for never having used a reel mower before but not too bad. The backyard was a breeze however the front will be more of a challenge to get used to mowing being smaller. Now I just need to get 22" just to use on front!😁
> 
> Over all this thing is just awesome and glad purchased one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How does this compare to your Toro Greensmaster?
Click to expand...

The Toro didn't end up working out, was going to cost me what I paid for the Baroness to get it up and running...plus was only going to allow me to cut at 1/2" max. I'm glad it didn't otherwise wouldn't have end it up with this beast!

I believe Zeus201 has a Toro 1000 and had previously said liked the baroness better. The comparison between going from a ford to a Cadillac or Lexus as others have mentioned would appear to hold true between the two mowers.


----------



## zeus201

ISU said:


> The Toro didn't end up working out, was going to cost me what I paid for the Baroness to get it up and running...plus was only going to allow me to cut at 1/2" max. I'm glad it didn't otherwise wouldn't have end it up with this beast!
> 
> I believe Zeus201 has a Toro 1000 and had previously said liked the baroness better. The comparison between going from a ford to a Cadillac or Lexus as others have mentioned would appear to hold true between the two mowers.


That is correct, both get the job done but the Baroness is a far better machine. I still use the Toro to do the trim passes around flower beds as the mulch always seems to find a way out.


----------



## Tmank87

Is it easy to get the transport wheels on and off? I havent tinkered with them


----------



## Mightyquinn

Tmank87 said:


> Is it easy to get the transport wheels on and off? I havent tinkered with them


Make sure it's on it's kickstand and squeeze the tabs together and they should pull off fairly easy. Depending on how long they have been on there it may take some wiggling to remove them.


----------



## Tmank87

Mightyquinn said:


> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is it easy to get the transport wheels on and off? I havent tinkered with them
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure it's on it's kickstand and squeeze the tabs together and they should pull off fairly easy. Depending on how long they have been on there it may take some wiggling to remove them.
Click to expand...

My man. Thanks. Wife is taking the two kids to her folks on Sunday. A full clean, tune up and mow is on the horizon!


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Would you guys recommend the dethatcher attachment to replace a Greenworks dethatcher? I'd love it if it could so I could save the space and not need to run a cord. But if it won't, then I could save a few extra bucks without it. @TulsaFan has been super helpful and a great hype man for Baroness mowers, but I'm already spending more than I want to. I'd try to keep a HOC around 1".

Also, did anyone hack off the transport wheel axles to cut closer to obstacles? I know people do it for their JD greensmowers. I don't expect to move the mower off my property, so I don't think I'd have much need for the transport wheels.


----------



## DetroitRocker

Hi all - I just received my LM56 this afternoon and have been spending the last few hours getting familiar with it, including reading through the manual a few times. Five questions for the super users here:

1. How do you all go across the driveway or sidewalks to mow a boulevard or backyard? Do you pop the transport wheels on and off, or do you just roll across the concrete with the reel/bedknife tipped up towards the sky?

2. Do you use the high or low efficiency clip? The Barnoess video seemed to suggest the low during the summer, but idk.

3. Is the groomer necessary? It came with mine, but was not installed. I'm currently cutting at .75. If I continue to cut at .75, what should I set my groomer at?

4. How many pumps of grease to you do? With my tru-cut, I could see the old grease being pushed out. I don't seem to have that luxury here. 10 pumps?

5. Is the independent grass catcher supposed to be so loose/free floating? The assumption is yes, since it's 'independent', but I've never seen anything like it.

I'm sure I'll have a few more - appreciate all of your insight!!


----------



## TulsaFan

Hype man??? No!!! :roll:

Happy owner and enthusiastic advocate??? Yes!!! :nod:

Hype is when something is made out to be better than promised. I don't think any of the new owners believe I have hyped the quality and engineering of the Baroness mower.

The mowers are legit! :thumbup:


----------



## andynese

Fellas, need help! Got the bedknife and bedknife bar on after hours of trying to decipher the manual. But now, the bed knife is jammed up against the reel. How do I lower this? Tried what the manual said, maybe im missing something. @Mightyquinn, you have any insight bud? Thanks in advance!


----------



## Shindoman

TulsaFan said:


> Hype man??? No!!! :roll:
> 
> Happy owner and enthusiastic advocate??? Yes!!! :nod:
> 
> Hype is when something is made out to be better than promised. I don't think any of the new owners believe I have hyped the quality and engineering of the Baroness mower.
> 
> The mowers are legit! :thumbup:


I can attest, @TulsaFan loves his Baroness and wants to spread the word. You'd almost think he's getting a commission! Lol 😂


----------



## bigmks

Did you get the correct bedknife and bar set? Silly questions. I was looking at the parts manual, and its very confusing. Maybe a guru can help out? Where did you order the parts from?


----------



## andynese

Yeah i did bud, got it from Baroness themselves.


----------



## TulsaFan

andynese said:


> Yeah i did bud, got it from Baroness themselves.


Did you use anti-seize on your bedknife screws?

I believe you twist these clockwise to increase the gap between th bedknife and reel. Do both sides with equl turns. No need for the rubber to be removed.


----------



## TulsaFan

Mine looks like this with the black rubber cap removed...


Your spring appears completely compressed.


----------



## andynese

Update: got it to work now and free spinning. Had to adjust the cam bushing at the bottom by rotating until it cut paper, then bolted the fulcrum arm back on. Afterwards, the knife might not spin anymore due to over- tighten the bolt on the fulcrum arm; so don't over tighten (the manual does make note that washers may be required for the gap; i only needed 1). Fine tune that and adjust the nut mentioned above until it cuts and free spins again; counterclockwise to lift the blade up. Also, please be careful when spinning the reel during the adjustment; cut myself pretty bad.

As far as how compressed my spring is; not sure if it will effect anything, I'll post a new pic tomorrow after I clean and do an oil/ gas change. @TulsaFan what did you mean by anti-seize?

Fingers cross that it works and cuts my grass in the morning! Hopes this helps someone; if my method is barbaric or unconventional in anyway, please share some tips! Thanks!


----------



## Mightyquinn

andynese said:


> Update: got it to work now and free spinning. Had to adjust the cam bushing at the bottom by rotating until it cut paper, then bolted the fulcrum arm back on. Afterwards, the knife might not spin anymore due to over- tighten the bolt on the fulcrum arm; so don't over tighten (the manual does make note that washers may be required for the gap; i only needed 1). Fine tune that and adjust the nut mentioned above until it cuts and free spins again; counterclockwise to lift the blade up. Also, please be careful when spinning the reel during the adjustment; cut myself pretty bad.
> 
> As far as how compressed my spring is; not sure if it will effect anything, I'll post a new pic tomorrow after I clean and do an oil/ gas change. @TulsaFan what did you mean by anti-seize?
> 
> Fingers cross that it works and cuts my grass in the morning! Hopes this helps someone; if my method is barbaric or unconventional in anyway, please share some tips! Thanks!


Glad to see you figured it out. What Tulsafan was suggesting was to use some Anti-Seize Lubricant on the threads for the bedknife screws. A little goes a long way and will also get all over your fingers too  but it washes off fairly easily. I also applied some to where the bedknife bar attaches to the adjusting arm since I had to pound those out to separate the two. It took me one or two times to get everything right also when reinstalling the bedknife bar/reel.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I forgot to add that I have been using these bedknife screws from McMaster-Carr. They are WAY easier to put on and take off then the flat head ones from Baroness.


----------



## andynese

Update:

Everything seems like it is working in perfect condition. However, I have a few questions/ concerns.

1) My engine is really quiet; it cuts and mows fine. However, is this a normal thing? I'm graduating from a rotary and push mower so I have no idea how "loud" a Honda GX120 sounds. It's significantly quieter than my rotary mower; about half the loudness.

2) The fulcrum arm spring. It was brought to my attention that mine seems a little compressed; after going through 3 different versions of the manual, 2/3 of them made note that it should be compressed to 50mm. Mine is at about 40mm; if I try to decompress the spring to 50mm, the bed knife makes too much contact with the reel and won't spin. Right now it cuts fine, just don't want this minor thing turn into a bigger issue longterm. Any suggestions?

Here's a little landing strip I made during my test cut; I embarrassingly scalped my lawn @ 1" HOC (first cut in about 1.5 weeks due to rain). My house is at an incline so cutting with this will be a learning curve. Cheers to all the help and glad I decided to pull the plug and upgrade from my push!


----------



## TulsaFan

andynese said:


> Update:
> 
> Everything seems like it is working in perfect condition. However, I have a few questions/ concerns.
> 
> 1) My engine is really quiet; it cuts and mows fine. However, is this a normal thing? I'm graduating from a rotary and push mower so I have no idea how "loud" a Honda GX120 sounds. It's significantly quieter than my rotary mower; about half the loudness.
> 
> 2) The fulcrum arm spring. It was brought to my attention that mine seems a little compressed; after going through 3 different versions of the manual, 2/3 of them made note that it should be compressed to 50mm. Mine is at about 40mm; if I try to decompress the spring to 50mm, the bed knife makes too much contact with the reel and won't spin. Right now it cuts fine, just don't want this minor thing turn into a bigger issue longterm. Any suggestions?
> 
> Here's a little landing strip I made during my test cut; I embarrassingly scalped my lawn @ 1" HOC (first cut in about 1.5 weeks due to rain). My house is at an incline so cutting with this will be a learning curve. Cheers to all the help and glad I decided to pull the plug and upgrade from my push!


Regarding #1, the mower is so quiet that I mow three days a week at 7am and the neighbors are fine with it. Also, I have mowed outside the bedroom window without waking up the wife!

Regarding #2, my mower was used as a demo one time and sat for a long time. So, I have only greased it and replace the carb. Lets page @Mightyquinn who had the self inflicted gun shot and is the SME!!! :thumbup:


----------



## Mightyquinn

What does your fulcrum arm look like right now? I measured both of mine and one spring is about 46mm and the other one that I just replaced the reel on is like 43mm I don't believe it's a huge deal in the long run. What kind of bedknife did you end up putting on it?


----------



## zeus201

DetroitRocker said:


> Hi all - I just received my LM56 this afternoon and have been spending the last few hours getting familiar with it, including reading through the manual a few times. Five questions for the super users here:
> 
> 1. How do you all go across the driveway or sidewalks to mow a boulevard or backyard? Do you pop the transport wheels on and off, or do you just roll across the concrete with the reel/bedknife tipped up towards the sky?


Roll it across the concrete slightly tipped back. Sounds awful but it is fine.



DetroitRocker said:


> 2. Do you use the high or low efficiency clip? The Barnoess video seemed to suggest the low during the summer, but idk.


I've used both and there is a noticeable difference. However, I use low frequency and cuts well on my cool season lawn.



DetroitRocker said:


> 3. Is the groomer necessary? It came with mine, but was not installed. I'm currently cutting at .75. If I continue to cut at .75, what should I set my groomer at?


I'll defer to warm season users. For my setup on a cool season, I'm using it to help stand the turf before getting cut. Cannot remember the exact value but for me I checked to make sure it was not completely digging into the turf. I think it helps...



DetroitRocker said:


> 4. How many pumps of grease to you do? With my tru-cut, I could see the old grease being pushed out. I don't seem to have that luxury here. 10 pumps?


Single pump which usually leaves me a little bit too clean up on the Zerk fitting.



DetroitRocker said:


> 5. Is the independent grass catcher supposed to be so loose/free floating? The assumption is yes, since it's 'independent', but I've never seen anything like it.


I took mine off but it was free floating supported by the brackets on the front of machine.


----------



## Mightyquinn

DetroitRocker said:


> Hi all - I just received my LM56 this afternoon and have been spending the last few hours getting familiar with it, including reading through the manual a few times. Five questions for the super users here:
> 
> 1. How do you all go across the driveway or sidewalks to mow a boulevard or backyard? Do you pop the transport wheels on and off, or do you just roll across the concrete with the reel/bedknife tipped up towards the sky?
> 
> 2. Do you use the high or low efficiency clip? The Barnoess video seemed to suggest the low during the summer, but idk.
> 
> 3. Is the groomer necessary? It came with mine, but was not installed. I'm currently cutting at .75. If I continue to cut at .75, what should I set my groomer at?
> 
> 4. How many pumps of grease to you do? With my tru-cut, I could see the old grease being pushed out. I don't seem to have that luxury here. 10 pumps?
> 
> 5. Is the independent grass catcher supposed to be so loose/free floating? The assumption is yes, since it's 'independent', but I've never seen anything like it.
> 
> I'm sure I'll have a few more - appreciate all of your insight!!


#1 Just roll across the concrete, it sounds like crap when you do but there is no real damage happening. Not a bad idea to tip it up a little too while doing this.

#2 I have been using the LOW FOC without any issues but it is definitely something you can play around with to see what works best for you.

#3 If you are mowing at .75" I'm not sure the groomer will go low enough to really do anything. You could probably set it as low as it will go and see if it does any damage (I don't think it will). I usually run mine in the reverse direction. It may help lift some of the grass blades for a better more even cut.

#4 I usually do 2-3 pumps per zerk fitting. The old manual says to add 1g of grease which is approximately 1-2 pumps.

#5 Yes, the IGC is suppose to be kind of loose and free floating so it's perfectly fine.


----------



## ThomasPI

Any of the newly minted owners have any feedback after a first mow? My mower is sitting idle for quite sometime to come until the spring so I'm quite curious to get thoughts !


----------



## surs73

Here are my impressions after day 1. Engine wouldn't stay running so I had to clean the carb jets which solved the problem. I'm coming from a rotary cut so it struggled a bit bringing the hoc down on my thick zoysia but after a few cleanup passes it looks great. Unfortunately the short safety lever snapped off when I was engaging the reel so i'm Officially down until I order new parts.


----------



## Mightyquinn

surs73 said:


> Here are my impressions after day 1. Engine wouldn't stay running so I had to clean the carb jets which solved the problem. I'm coming from a rotary cut so it struggled a bit bringing the hoc down on my thick zoysia but after a few cleanup passes it looks great. Unfortunately the short safety lever snapped off when I was engaging the reel so i'm Officially down until I order new parts.


What safety lever are you talking about? If it's what I think it is, you can just remove it and be on your way. I have removed both of them off my mowers :thumbup:


----------



## ISU

ThomasPI said:


> Any of the newly minted owners have any feedback after a first mow? My mower is sitting idle for quite sometime to come until the spring so I'm quite curious to get thoughts !


Used mine couple times now and enjoying the cut quality. Night and day difference compared to rotary. Only thing I have noticed it's I get some stragglers after the mow. Overall I'm very happy.


----------



## ISU

Mightyquinn said:


> surs73 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my impressions after day 1. Engine wouldn't stay running so I had to clean the carb jets which solved the problem. I'm coming from a rotary cut so it struggled a bit bringing the hoc down on my thick zoysia but after a few cleanup passes it looks great. Unfortunately the short safety lever snapped off when I was engaging the reel so i'm Officially down until I order new parts.
> 
> 
> 
> What safety lever are you talking about? If it's what I think it is, you can just remove it and be on your way. I have removed both of them off my mowers :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Perhaps the clutch safety lever? It's that fairly easy to remove?


----------



## Mightyquinn

ISU said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> surs73 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my impressions after day 1. Engine wouldn't stay running so I had to clean the carb jets which solved the problem. I'm coming from a rotary cut so it struggled a bit bringing the hoc down on my thick zoysia but after a few cleanup passes it looks great. Unfortunately the short safety lever snapped off when I was engaging the reel so i'm Officially down until I order new parts.
> 
> 
> 
> What safety lever are you talking about? If it's what I think it is, you can just remove it and be on your way. I have removed both of them off my mowers :thumbup:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Perhaps the clutch safety lever? It's that fairly easy to remove?
Click to expand...

Yes, it is real easy to remove. Let me know if you need any assistance :thumbup:


----------



## surs73

This is the part that broke. It won't move forward up a slight incline without whatever that lever engages/disengages. How would I bypass this?


----------



## surs73

sorry,....here is the pic


----------



## Mightyquinn

Look under that cover where it attaches and you will see a "C" clamp ring I think that holds the lever on there. You should be able to pop them off with a flat tip screw driver.


----------



## ThomasPI

Loaded up Owners and Parts Manual onto my iPad and need to steal some time from work to sit in the garage with mower and iPad to get familiar with the beast.


----------



## Tmank87

I finally got her bathed, greased, oil change and some fresh gas. Considering it feels about 105 here, only fooled around with it in the backyard. The difference between this machine and my Tru Cut is honestly astounding. It's not in the same ball park. Hell, it's not even the same sport. Couldn't be more pleased. Appreciate all the guidance here and to Thomas for the shipping contact. I think I will look forward to mowing.


----------



## ThomasPI

Looks great. I'm coming from a rotary so I can't wait till spring when house is done.


----------



## ctrav

Tmank87 said:


> I finally got her bathed, greased, oil change and some fresh gas. Considering it feels about 105 here, only fooled around with it in the backyard. The difference between this machine and my Tru Cut is honestly astounding. It's not in the same ball park. Hell, it's not even the same sport. Couldn't be more pleased. Appreciate all the guidance here and to Thomas for the shipping contact. I think I will look forward to mowing.


Looks like an awesome unit and then you have to go and do the golf ball pic and make the rest of us look bad


----------



## Tmank87

Ha! @ctrav - I've still got a long way to go! I saw some of those pics when I first joined and I've been Jonesin' to take one since! Appreciate it.


----------



## ISU

Tmank87 said:


> I finally got her bathed, greased, oil change and some fresh gas. Considering it feels about 105 here, only fooled around with it in the backyard. The difference between this machine and my Tru Cut is honestly astounding. It's not in the same ball park. Hell, it's not even the same sport. Couldn't be more pleased. Appreciate all the guidance here and to Thomas for the shipping contact. I think I will look forward to mowing.


Very nice, congrats!


----------



## Shindoman

I'm still flabbergasted by how little you guys are paying for what is an 
amazing Mower.


----------



## TulsaFan

Shindoman said:


> I'm still flabbergasted by how little you guys are paying for what is an
> amazing Mower.


You can stop now!!! I am not sharing any of my commissions!!! :lol:


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> Look under that cover where it attaches and you will see a "C" clamp ring I think that holds the lever on there. You should be able to pop them off with a flat tip screw driver.


I just did this procedure and love my Baroness more than I did before! :thumbup: :shock: :lol:


----------



## Shindoman

TulsaFan said:


> Shindoman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still flabbergasted by how little you guys are paying for what is an
> amazing Mower.
> 
> 
> 
> You can stop now!!! I am not sharing any of my commissions!!! :lol:
Click to expand...

No need to split commissions. Just do a heavy discount on that Plugr. :thumbup:


----------



## ThomasPI

Shindoman said:


> I'm still flabbergasted by how little you guys are paying for what is an
> amazing Mower.


Supply and demand will kick in when supply dries up soon :mrgreen:


----------



## Tmank87

Anyone know if Bryan has any left?


----------



## TulsaFan

Tmank87 said:


> Anyone know if Bryan has any left?


He has a few 22" left. They should dissapear fairly quickly with all the hype! :roll:


----------



## Shindoman

TulsaFan said:


> Hype man??? No!!! :roll:
> 
> Happy owner and enthusiastic advocate??? Yes!!! :nod:
> 
> Hype is when something is made out to be better than promised. I don't think any of the new owners believe I have hyped the quality and engineering of the Baroness mower.
> 
> The mowers are legit! :thumbup:


Hype? :lol:


----------



## TulsaFan

Maybe Bryan will take your Dennis as a trade-in?


----------



## Shindoman

TulsaFan said:


> Maybe Bryan will take your Dennis as a trade-in?


Why buy a Lexus when I have a Rolls?


----------



## TulsaFan

Shindoman said:


> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe Bryan will take your Dennis as a trade-in?
> 
> 
> 
> Why buy a Lexus when I have a Rolls?
Click to expand...

Wow...You are starting to sound like a Toro owner! :lol: I like it though! Nothing like a bunch of lawn nerds bragging about their mowers! :thumbup:


----------



## Shindoman

TulsaFan said:


> Shindoman said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe Bryan will take your Dennis as a trade-in?
> 
> 
> 
> Why buy a Lexus when I have a Rolls?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wow...You are starting to sound like a Toro owner! :lol: I like it though! Nothing like a bunch of lawn nerds bragging about their mowers! :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Toro? The Chevy of greens mowers.


----------



## bigmks

Hasn't toro copied baroness lately ,and have gone all gear driven?


----------



## andynese

Finally got her all cleaned up today; Japanese craftsmanship is something to be admired. Furthermore, is it normal for it to kind of stall out when engaging only the clutch and not with the throttle? I'm thinking it's not and might have to change the carburetor.


----------



## Tmank87

Is that the dew roller, grooved roller and the groomer?


----------



## surs73

andynese said:


> Finally got her all cleaned up today; Japanese craftsmanship is something to be admired. Furthermore, is it normal for it to kind of stall out when engaging only the clutch and not with the throttle? I'm thinking it's not and might have to change the carburetor.


Mine did the same thing....once I cleaned the carb jets, everything worked great.


----------



## surs73

Mightyquinn said:


> Look under that cover where it attaches and you will see a "C" clamp ring I think that holds the lever on there. You should be able to pop them off with a flat tip screw driver.


Thanks everyone for the tips. I removed a spring loaded clip that held a metal rocker plate in position. With that spring off, it flops around so once i figure out how to secure it in the unlocked position, I'm hoping I'll be home free.

Here is a pic from my first cut....good from afar but not ready for a close up shot yet. It's always been rotary cut so I'm guessing it will take time to acclimate.


----------



## andynese

Tmank87 said:


> Is that the dew roller, grooved roller and the groomer?


That's the independent grass catcher roller, groove roller and brush. I'll be taking out the brush this weekend and might either attach the groomer or dethatcher/verticutter.


----------



## bigmks

What did it cost for the brush? Never seen one before on one. I'm guessing you got it from the dealer? Silly questions but I've never mastered how do you set the the attachments de-thatcher,groomer etc cutting @ 1 inch?


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

I just ordered my LM56 from Bryan. He's got one more to sell, but he says he needs to service it first. It'll include the basket, transport wheels, and a groomer. Still waiting on a few more shipping quotes and hoping for one that's below $300.

Thanks to @TulsaFan for sharing these deals and for his advice in helping me pick my first reel mower!


----------



## Mightyquinn

Did Bryan sell all his mowers to TLF members? &#128512;


----------



## Tmank87

I honestly think he did. I was inquiring about whether he had anymore because I was considering even picking up a LM56 if it had a number of the attachments.


----------



## Tmank87

andynese said:


> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is that the dew roller, grooved roller and the groomer?
> 
> 
> 
> That's the independent grass catcher roller, groove roller and brush. I'll be taking out the brush this weekend and might either attach the groomer or dethatcher/verticutter.
Click to expand...

Ah, thanks. I guess the LM56 must be newer? I was watching a video and it suggested that system was introduced in 2016? I was under the impression these were 2011 models they took back on a three year lease. Maybe my understanding of that was wrong.


----------



## Mightyquinn

There are 2 versions of the IGC. The older version has one arm and the new one has 2 arms.


----------



## andynese

bigmks said:


> What did it cost for the brush? Never seen one before on one. I'm guessing you got it from the dealer? Silly questions but I've never mastered how do you set the the attachments de-thatcher,groomer etc cutting @ 1 inch?


Not sure how I am gonna do it, just wanna give it a shot :lol:

As far as the attachment, I got all of mine from Bryan. Mine is a LM56 so he had a few attachments available. I guess I lucked out because this was a demo and had the brush already in it when he sold it to me. It was missing the bedbar and bedknife, so he threw in all of the other attachments for it (groomer and verticutter/dethatcher; still not sure if there's a difference since it seems like Baronness uses verticutter/dethatcher interchangeably when it comes to this attachment). Someone please correct if I'm wrong.



DuncanMcDonuts said:


> I just ordered my LM56 from Bryan. He's got one more to sell, but he says he needs to service it first. It'll include the basket, transport wheels, and a groomer. Still waiting on a few more shipping quotes and hoping for one that's below $300.
> 
> Thanks to @TulsaFan for sharing these deals and for his advice in helping me pick my first reel mower!


Hit up @thomaspi or pm me and ill forward the shipping company I used, paid $280 shipped and insured.


----------



## Mightyquinn

The groomer is to be used above ground and the verticutter is to be used at ground level or below. The blades on the verticutter are thicker than on the groomer. The groomer has more blades too.


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> What safety lever are you talking about? If it's what I think it is, you can just remove it and be on your way. I have removed both of them off my mowers :thumbup:


So, I had @Mightyquinn tell me how to remove my Safety Lock Lever last night. I removed it this morning before my 7am mow. It made mowing so much more enjoyable. I highly recommend this if you have no small children!

The last two photos are of the (2) plugs on each side of the cover that you will need to remove. Removing the cover, will allow you to remove the Safety Lock Lever after you pull off the rubber knob.


----------



## surs73

TulsaFan said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> surs73 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my impressions after day 1. Engine wouldn't stay running so I had to clean the carb jets which solved the problem. I'm coming from a rotary cut so it struggled a bit bringing the hoc down on my thick zoysia but after a few cleanup passes it looks great. Unfortunately the short safety lever snapped off when I was engaging the reel so i'm Officially down until I order new parts.
> 
> 
> 
> What safety lever are you talking about? If it's what I think it is, you can just remove it and be on your way. I have removed both of them off my mowers :thumbup:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So, I had @Mightyquinn tell me how to remove my Safety Lock Lever last night. I removed it this morning before my 7am mow. It made mowing so much more enjoyable. I highly recommend this if you have no small children!
> 
> The last two photos are of the (2) plugs on each side of the cover that you will need to remove. Removing the cover, will allow you to remove the Safety Lock Lever after you pull off the rubber knob.
Click to expand...

Yep, that's the spring I removed. Tried taking off the plugs holding on the plastic cover but it didn't want to budge. Will be so happy when that thing is off the mower


----------



## Tmank87

What's the situation with HOC and reel to bed knife adjustments? Havent looked into either but was wondering if it was fairly easy/straightforward? I guess I'd need an accugauge?


----------



## andynese

Mightyquinn said:


> The groomer is to be used above ground and the verticutter is to be used at ground level or below. The blades on the verticutter are thicker than on the groomer. The groomer has more blades too.


Got cha bud, however, Bryan kept using de-thatcher and verticutter interchangeably so I was a little confused when I got mine with a brush, groomer and verticutter attachment. I'm assuming the verticutter can be used as a dethatcher or is there a separate attachment? Baroness brochure never mentioned a verticutter.


----------



## TulsaFan

andynese said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> The groomer is to be used above ground and the verticutter is to be used at ground level or below. The blades on the verticutter are thicker than on the groomer. The groomer has more blades too.
> 
> 
> 
> Got cha bud, however, Bryan kept using de-thatcher and verticutter interchangeably so I was a little confused when I got mine with a brush, groomer and verticutter attachment. I'm assuming the verticutter can be used as a dethatcher or is there a separate attachment? Baroness brochure never mentioned a verticutter.
Click to expand...

You have a brush, groomer, and dethatcher attachment. The dethatcher is a lightly used tool that removes thatch throughout the season...not at the beginning or end of the season like a true dedicated dethatcher/verticutter. You might use it every two weeks as part of your maintenance program.


----------



## ISU

Tmank87 said:


> What's the situation with HOC and reel to bed knife adjustments? Havent looked into either but was wondering if it was fairly easy/straightforward? I guess I'd need an accugauge?


I found the HOC adjustment to be fairly easy, coming from a rotary mower to this beast can be intimidating but basically untighten a bolt and raise/lower the front roller to your liking and ensure you have the right height. I personally don't yet have a fancy HOC tool as I'm cutting at max HOC of just over 1", so far i've been using a piece of wood and measuring tape to check the HOC which works just as good (maybe not as fast of a process with the actual tool but no big deal). I do plan on purchasing a HOC tool as would like to start testing the lawn below 1" mark but still trying to justify the price for a piece of metal with a gauge but having the tool will just make it faster to check the adjustments. There are alternatives DIY versions which I might try first.

It's one of things where u don't realize how easy it is until you give it a try.


----------



## Tmank87

Ha - thanks, that's exactly why I asked. I didn't really even look mostly out of intimidation.

I really need to bump my HOC down to .5-.75 to get a "scalp" in order to maintain at the max HOC, 1".

Appreciate the response.


----------



## zeus201

TulsaFan said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> What safety lever are you talking about? If it's what I think it is, you can just remove it and be on your way. I have removed both of them off my mowers :thumbup:
> 
> 
> 
> So, I had @Mightyquinn tell me how to remove my Safety Lock Lever last night. I removed it this morning before my 7am mow. It made mowing so much more enjoyable. I highly recommend this if you have no small children!
> 
> The last two photos are of the (2) plugs on each side of the cover that you will need to remove. Removing the cover, will allow you to remove the Safety Lock Lever after you pull off the rubber knob.
Click to expand...

By removing that it, it allows us to engage the reel / clutch w/out it?


----------



## ThomasPI

Tmank87 said:


> Ha - thanks, that's exactly why I asked. I didn't really even look mostly out of intimidation.
> 
> I really need to bump my HOC down to .5-.75 to get a "scalp" in order to maintain at the max HOC, 1".
> 
> Appreciate the response.


FYI with Zoysia the preferred HOC to maintain it at is 1/2" per Greendoc and others, if kept at higher HOC thatch can be an issue.


----------



## Tmank87

I really cant maintain right now at .5" (lack of time, it's not flat like a green) so I'm going to have to take my chances.


----------



## Mightyquinn

@zeus201 yes, it removes the safety and you can just mow without unlocking it every time.


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> @zeus201 yes, it removes the safety and you can just mow without unlocking it every time.


If you do remove it, be sure to use the parking brake as a Safety Sally measure if small kiddos are around! Although I removed mine, I still caught myself trying to push it forward the first time without it. (Sorry for not responding, I missed your question.)


----------



## ThomasPI

Touch up paint ? Curious, since we are basically sitting on waterfront property in Perdido Key we contend with mother nature and the elements of salt water. In time I'll invariably nick the red paint etc and I want to keep corrosion at bay. Has anyone got a red color match enamel paint or Rustoleum etc so I can keep on top of anything that occurs ? It'll get washed and dried after each use but....... rather be proactive.


----------



## Mightyquinn

ThomasPI said:


> Touch up paint ? Curious, since we are basically sitting on waterfront property in Perdido Key we contend with mother nature and the elements of salt water. In time I'll invariably nick the red paint etc and I want to keep corrosion at bay. Has anyone got a red color match enamel paint or Rustoleum etc so I can keep on top of anything that occurs ? It'll get washed and dried after each use but....... rather be proactive.


You can buy touch up paint from a Baroness Dealer, I'm going to next time I make a purchase from there.

These are the part #'s

Baroness-001- Dark Gray Paint
Baroness-002- Wine Red Paint


----------



## ThomasPI

Thanks dealer is 9 hours away lol. May have to call Baroness to try to buy it.


----------



## TulsaFan

So, it's 11:00 pm here and I went out into the garage and checked my HOC. Then, I checked the cut quality with paper strips. It required an adjustment of the reel and bedknife clearance. Anyone as excited as I am to cut their lawn tomorrow morning??? :mrgreen:


----------



## zeus201

TulsaFan said:


> So, it's 11:00 pm here and I went out into the garage and checked my HOC. Then, I checked the cut quality with paper strips. It required an adjustment of the reel and bedknife clearance. Anyone as excited as I am to cut their lawn tomorrow morning??? :mrgreen:


hahaha


----------



## TulsaFan

Friendly reminder to all the new mower owners. Those reels if recently sharpened are EXTREMELY sharp. I have caught my fingers a few times checking the quality of cut and definitely bled as a result of it! :lol:


----------



## ThomasPI

I heeded your previous warning when checking the reel cut with paper which was perfect, with so little use it's like factory new and sharp as ever!


----------



## Tmank87

I can't seem to (easily) locate 3 of the zerks on the right side in black. Do I need to remove the black cover I assume? Wanted to be sure I wasn't missing anything.

Also, is there harm in greasing the 50 hour zerks when I grease the 10s? I ask because its one less thing to keep up with in my simple coconut.


----------



## Mightyquinn

@Tmank87 do you have a groomer attachment on your mower? That is what those 3 zerk fittings are.

I wouldn't over lube the front roller as I have done that before and it caused it not to spin very easily.


----------



## Tmank87

Ah ha! I do not have the groomer. It's all coming together now...

Noted on the roller.

Thanks brother.


----------



## jimbeckel

TulsaFan said:


> So, it's 11:00 pm here and I went out into the garage and checked my HOC. Then, I checked the cut quality with paper strips. It required an adjustment of the reel and bedknife clearance. Anyone as excited as I am to cut their lawn tomorrow morning??? :mrgreen:


Love your flag emoji!


----------



## Mightyquinn

Tmank87 said:


> Ah ha! I do not have the groomer. It's all coming together now...
> 
> Noted on the roller.
> 
> Thanks brother.


Do you have an hour meter?


----------



## Tmank87

I dont. Tell me more.. @Mightyquinn


----------



## bigmks

Tmank87 said:


> I dont. Tell me more.. @Mightyquinn


----------



## Tmank87

You just wrap it around the spark plug wire huh? Pretty cool. Never really thought about an hour meter.


----------



## TulsaFan

I am pretty sure @Mightyquinn has stock in this company. :lol:


----------



## Tmank87

Just picked one up. Thanks guys.

Any other must haves I've been missing out on!?


----------



## ISU

Well..couldn't feel left out so had to order the me an hour meter as well. :lol:


----------



## Mightyquinn

TulsaFan said:


> I am pretty sure @Mightyquinn has stock in this company. :lol:


Is there a reason you mounted it behind the plastic cover? I have mine mounted up top by the handle bars so it's easy to see. That cover is a PIA to have to remove to see how many hours you are at.


----------



## TulsaFan

I just mounted it in the same place as the original. :?


----------



## TulsaFan

For grease, I really like the LockNLube Grease Coupler. Not necessary, but keeps the grease in the zerks and not everywhere else. I paired it with a Lumax Heavy Duty Deluxe Pistol Grip Grease Gun with 18 in Flex Hose.

For HOC checks, I would suggest the Accu-gage. You definitely should upgrade to the hands free (magnetic) option.

For gas, I like the Surecan or No-Spill. I use the Surecan for the Baroness and the No-Spill for the Echo tools.

For an hourmeter, I use Hardline Products HR-8061-2 Hour Meter/Tachometer for up to 2-Cylinder Engines.

I am never going to cut my transport axles. So, I think Idech Power Rotary Scissors are a game changer for owning a greens mower and having lots of obstacles in your lawn.

For cleaning newly acquired used lawn equipment, I like S100 12005L Total Cycle Cleaner Bottle - 1.32 Gallon 

For an all purpose over-sized funnel, I would suggest the Funnel for Filling Resin & Mineral Tanks - 2.5" x 10" .

For planting, I use Power Planter 100% USA Made 3"x7" Bulb & Bedding Plant Auger . This is heavy duty and much better than ones you will find at the big box stores.

For soil tests, I use Tubular Soil Sampler (15"L x 3/4"Dia.).

For liquid removal, I use Sierra Tools JB5684 Battery Operated Liquid Transfer Pump.

For measuring, I use American Weigh Scales AWS Series Digital Pocket Weight Scale, Black, 600G x 0.1G . I also use Accuteck ShipPro 110lbs x 0.1 oz. Digital Shipping Postal Scale, Black (W-8580-110-Black) .

Most of these items, but not all, have been suggested by @Mightyquinn and others on TLF.


----------



## Mightyquinn

TulsaFan said:


> I just mounted it in the same place as the original. :?


That's what I figured but I didn't care for the placement when I replaced mine 



TulsaFan said:


> For grease, I really like the LockNLube Grease Coupler. Not necessary, but keeps the grease in the zerks and not everywhere else.
> 
> For HOC checks, I would suggest the Accu-gage. You definitely should upgrade to the hands free (magnetic) option.
> 
> For gas, I like the Surecan or No-Spill. I use the Surecan for the Baroness and the No-Spill for the Echo tools.
> 
> I have asked @Mightyquinn to make a list of items. He is always finding a way to spend my money! :roll:


This is a good start for a list, I might need to try and pin this to the beginning of this thread :thumbup:


----------



## ThomasPI

Got everything on list except no spill Jill.


----------



## Tmank87

I dont have the Sure can. I have the no spill for my smaller equipment. Been thinking about upgrading.

I'm trying my hand on a HOC bar before I (inevitably) breakdown and buy an accu gauge.


----------



## gpbrown60

Nice list TulsaFan!


----------



## Mightyquinn

I updated the first page with some of the relevant links. Just FYI.


----------



## ISU

Received the hr meter today and installed by the handle bars. I ended up reusing the plastic mounting plate from the original meter.


----------



## TulsaFan

I moved mine to here....


----------



## ISU

TulsaFan said:


> I moved mine to here....


 Nice, I almost put mine there before deciding on the handle bar.


----------



## ThomasPI

Put mine in same place as @Mightyquinn this morning.


----------



## ThomasPI

TulsaFan said:


> For grease, I really like the LockNLube Grease Coupler. Not necessary, but keeps the grease in the zerks and not everywhere else. I paired it with a Lumax Heavy Duty Deluxe Pistol Grip Grease Gun with 18 in Flex Hose.
> 
> For HOC checks, I would suggest the Accu-gage. You definitely should upgrade to the hands free (magnetic) option.
> 
> For gas, I like the Surecan or No-Spill. I use the Surecan for the Baroness and the No-Spill for the Echo tools.
> 
> For an hourmeter, I use Hardline Products HR-8061-2 Hour Meter/Tachometer for up to 2-Cylinder Engines.
> 
> I am never going to cut my transport axles. So, I think Idech Power Rotary Scissors are a game changer for owning a greens mower and having lots of obstacles in your lawn.
> 
> For cleaning newly acquired used lawn equipment, I like S100 12005L Total Cycle Cleaner Bottle - 1.32 Gallon
> 
> For an all purpose over-sized funnel, I would suggest the Funnel for Filling Resin & Mineral Tanks - 2.5" x 10" .
> 
> For planting, I use Power Planter 100% USA Made 3"x7" Bulb & Bedding Plant Auger . This is heavy duty and much better than ones you will find at the big box stores.
> 
> For soil tests, I use Tubular Soil Sampler (15"L x 3/4"Dia.).
> 
> For liquid removal, I use Sierra Tools JB5684 Battery Operated Liquid Transfer Pump.
> 
> For measuring, I use American Weigh Scales AWS Series Digital Pocket Weight Scale, Black, 600G x 0.1G . I also use Accuteck ShipPro 110lbs x 0.1 oz. Digital Shipping Postal Scale, Black (W-8580-110-Black) .
> 
> Most of these items, but not all, have been suggested by @Mightyquinn and others on TLF.


Thanks to you and @Mightyquinn for the list. Slowly putting a few things together.


----------



## andynese

Hey fellas I have been having odd sound coming from the mower since I got it, didn't think much of it but today it was significantly louder. Not sure what is going on. I've checked clearance on the reel, groomer and the basket and they checked out. Sounds like it could be an engine thing. Not sure if this is allowed, but I have uploaded a vid of the mower and sound to my google drive. Link is below.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=10pN7H4XKz7CUOhyjq2sQUTdjNwgpG00O


----------



## ThomasPI

How does it sound just sitting idle and not mowing with reel disengaged ?


----------



## zeus201

You check the oil level? I'd start there, probably just change it out and refill as good measure.


----------



## Mightyquinn

ThomasPI said:


> How does it sound just sitting idle and not mowing with reel disengaged ?


+1 and does it sound the same at high idle. To me, it sounds like the engine is struggling because you are cutting at idle and not giving it enough throttle.


----------



## Shindoman

Mightyquinn said:


> ThomasPI said:
> 
> 
> 
> How does it sound just sitting idle and not mowing with reel disengaged ?
> 
> 
> 
> +1 and does it sound the same at high idle. To me, it sounds like the engine is struggling because you are cutting at idle and not giving it enough throttle.
Click to expand...

I agree, sounds like it's lugging from too much load for the rpm.


----------



## TulsaFan

Does the knocking completely go away when it has high throttle?


----------



## andynese

ThomasPI said:


> How does it sound just sitting idle and not mowing with reel disengaged ?


It sounds fine idle and at high throttle is fine when it's on travel. The only time it sounds like that is when it going up/ down my incline during a mow. When it's getting "pushed" it sounds like that. Idle RPM is @2400 and at max throttle RPM is around 3-3.4k.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Have you cleaned the carb at all? I think your idle RPM is kind of high too.


----------



## andynese

Mightyquinn said:


> Have you cleaned the carb at all? I think your idle RPM is kind of high too.


Yes I cleaned it today, I will adjust the idle RPM and see if it does anything. Do you know what's the typical RPM at idle?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Suppose to be around 1400 according to Honda. I think I'm at around 1700 on mine.


----------



## TulsaFan

I asked a Baroness expert for his opinion after watching the video. This is what he had to say: "The knocking sounds is coming from the gears in the side case, it is usually a telltale sign that it needs some grease pumped into the side casing."


----------



## andynese

TulsaFan said:


> I asked a Baroness expert for his opinion after watching the video. This is what he had to say: "The knocking sounds is coming from the gears in the side case, it is usually a telltale sign that it needs some grease pumped into the side casing."


Thank you bud, odd that i greased it when I got it. I'll add some more and see if it helps out. I'll keep y'all posted. Thank you for the replies!


----------



## Mightyquinn

andynese said:


> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> I asked a Baroness expert for his opinion after watching the video. This is what he had to say: "The knocking sounds is coming from the gears in the side case, it is usually a telltale sign that it needs some grease pumped into the side casing."
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you bud, odd that i greased it when I got it. I'll add some more and see if it helps out. I'll keep y'all posted. Thank you for the replies!
Click to expand...

+1 After removing that side cover when I replaced my reel, there is plants of room in there for grease so don't be shy with it. I wouldn't go crazy but once or twice a year giving it a little extra wouldn't hurt anything.


----------



## zeus201

Is there a solid front roller option for LM56?


----------



## Mightyquinn

zeus201 said:


> Is there a solid front roller option for LM56?


YES!!

Item #102b-20 in the manual. Part # K740000012D


----------



## BubbaGrumpus

For you guys that have owned one of these for a bit.

What's a reasonable amount to expect to pay on yearly maintenance?

I've got my name on Bryan's last 26" and am curious how expensive the upkeep is?

Thanks.


----------



## bigmks

I'd imagine just gas and grease. I'm not sure of the cost of getting the reel grinder. You probably wouldn't need to do that in the near future I don't think? Maintenance should be very cheap baring any foreseen damages.


----------



## Mightyquinn

bigmks said:


> I'd imagine just gas and grease. I'm not sure of the cost of getting the reel grinder. You probably wouldn't need to do that in the near future I don't think? Maintenance should be very cheap baring any foreseen damages.


+1. You shouldn't need much besides grease, grease gun, oil and gas. The reel should have plenty of life left so at most you might also need some backlapping compound, a brush and a drill.


----------



## Mightyquinn

@TulsaFan I was curious how well the Motorcycle Cleaner that you bought works on your Baroness? I'm currently using SuperClean and it seems to get the job done quite well without out any side effects that I can see. Just wondering if the extra cost is worth it?


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> @TulsaFan I was curious how well the Motorcycle Cleaner that you bought works on your Baroness? I'm currently using SuperClean and it seems to get the job done quite well without out any side effects that I can see. Just wondering if the extra cost is worth it?


My Baroness was essentially brand new. So, I have never actually used it for my Baroness. However, it has worked really well on other used pieces of equipment I have purchased. @silvercymbal did this video which was why I bought it. Could you go with out it? Absolutely. However, it does a great job on grimy equipment.

I typically use water and a blue scotch pad to clean my reel as suggested by you!


----------



## ISU

Fellas, anyone know what the 3rd option/setting for the the clip rate is? The sticker only shows low and high position but I see there are 3 total setting....currently have it at what I think it's the low clip rate and testes the high (bottom setting) shortly but mower was way too fast. Haven't tested the 3rd option (closest to reel ) yet and just wondered what setting it is.


----------



## Mightyquinn

The middle option is Neutral. Now I have to say that I have never tried it in that position so I don't know for sure what will happen.


----------



## zeus201

ISU said:


> Fellas, anyone know what the 3rd option/setting for the the clip rate is? The sticker only shows low and high position but I see there are 3 total setting....currently have it at what I think it's the low clip rate and testes the high (bottom setting) shortly but mower was way too fast. Haven't tested the 3rd option (closest to reel ) yet and just wondered what setting it is.


3rd option is nothing. IIRC, it actually stops spinning the reel.


----------



## ISU

Thanks fellas, wonder if that's an alternative to the travel option which avoids reel from being engage.


----------



## andynese

ISU said:


> Fellas, anyone know what the 3rd option/setting for the the clip rate is? The sticker only shows low and high position but I see there are 3 total setting....currently have it at what I think it's the low clip rate and testes the high (bottom setting) shortly but mower was way too fast. Haven't tested the 3rd option (closest to reel ) yet and just wondered what setting it is.


----------



## learnt

*

@TulsaFan & @Mightyquinn

*How much grease is enough?*

I'll admit that before I ran the mower for the first time... I only did a couple of pumps into each zerk. Today, however, I sat down in the garage and figured I would pump into the zerks whatever they'd take. Let me also just say that my knowledge of engines is not very deep - having virtually none whatsoever.

Now, I've gone through three full tubes of grease - and, I'm not getting any spewage / backing up. Once she took the last tube... I decided to come ask you guys if I had already gone too far.

*So, did I do too much and potentially cause myself a future headache? Or, do I keep pumpin' till she quits takin' it?*

I ran the unit afterwards to have the gears churn through what had been put in - and, nothing appeared out of the ordinary. Still no signs of casing escapement on the part of the grease.

And, one final set of questions:

What is the purpose for this small window? What's the proper way to think about this port? Proper way to check for unit issues with this port?



Before I began my grease onslaught, you could see remnants of some old grease right at the window of that plug - now, you can actually see some of the fresh grease I just put in.

Thank you both in advance... And, to whomever else can chime in.

@Ware Thanks - just kept going back - since that's where we were all chatting originally. Will stick on here from now on!


----------



## Mightyquinn

WOW!!!! 3 tubes of grease???? There is a lot of space inside the main gear housing but you could be pushing it with 3 tubes of grease. Not sure if you will actually damage anything with that much grease but you are plenty good for now. You should have only needed 3-5 pumps per zerk and you would have been good. The Baroness is basically a sealed system so you should never pump until you see grease coming out. If it was me, I would remove the side plate and remove all the excess grease and start all over again as too much grease is just as bad as no grease at all as it will create friction as there is no where for the grease to go.

The clear window is to check for moisture inside the gear case and you shouldn't really be seeing any grease. That is what I was told by my local Baroness dealer.


----------



## learnt

Mightyquinn said:


> WOW!!!! 3 tubes of grease???? There is a lot of space inside the main gear housing but you could be pushing it with 3 tubes of grease. Not sure if you will actually damage anything with that much grease but you are plenty good for now. You should have only needed 3-5 pumps per zerk and you would have been good. The Baroness is basically a sealed system so you should never pump until you see grease coming out. If it was me, I would remove the side plate and remove all the excess grease and start all over again as too much grease is just as bad as no grease at all as it will create friction as there is no where for the grease to go.
> 
> The clear window is to check for moisture inside the gear case and you shouldn't really be seeing any grease. That is what I was told by my local Baroness dealer.


Yikes - fear confirmed.

[Insert Explicit Language Here]

By judgement of your 'wow' plus multiple exclamation marks, I hereby find myself guilty of being way too excitable. 

Thank you for your input. I very much appreciate it.

*Follow-up question*: once I clean out all of my bad grease, how much then should I put back in each zerk? Forgive me for my ignorance... this is perhaps the most in-over-my-head I've been on something in awhile.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Be careful when removing the side cover as I had to tap mine with a rubber mallet to break it loose and also be careful not to damage the gasket either. Also be aware that there are some washers/spacers inside the large cover and be sure not to lose those either. I would just make sure that you get the majority of the grease out, don't worry about cleaning it out completely, then once everything is put back together, just give it 2-3 squirts per zerk and you should be good to go.


----------



## learnt

Thank you, again :smile:

Feeling pretty terrible and embarrassed right now. Hope someone else can learn from my mistake. Over-zealousness can lead to bad things, folks.


----------



## learnt

*

*Before*:





*After*:


----------



## TulsaFan

learnt said:


> @TulsaFan & @Mightyquinn
> 
> *How much grease is enough?*


Glad @Mightyquinn had the time to help you on this one. Sorry for not responding, but I have been working in my garage all day. I am about to have a heat stroke. Currently, 99 degrees at 6:30PM. :shock:


----------



## Mightyquinn

learnt said:


> *
> 
> *Before*:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *After*:


If you haven't put it all together yet, I would go and slather on a light coat of grease on everything before putting it all back together and then giving it a few extra pumps but if not, just go ahead and give it 5-6 pumps per zerk and you should be good. Make sure you are lubing every 10 hours just to be safe, you should be good. That was A LOT of grease!!! :lol: I didn't have anywhere near that much after 100 hrs of use!!!


----------



## Tmank87

Guess that's what 3 tubes of grease looks like! Glad you got it situated. I just finished up a mow myself. Really loving these machines.


----------



## TulsaFan

Tmank87 said:


> Guess that's what 3 tubes of grease looks like! Glad you got it situated. I just finished up a mow myself. Really loving these machines.


I am surprised his hand didn't start cramping before he finished all three tubes! :lol:


----------



## learnt

@Tmank87 LOL - Indeed... that is definitely what 3 tubes of grease looks like...

@Mightyquinn I do not know how to take your comment, because I'm not sure what a 'light' slathering is intended to mean. :lol: You know by now I can take things too far. I haven't closed the case up, yet. Do you know if there are any visual references for what a proper greasing looks like? Wasn't sure if your last gear pic was what I should aim for or not.

@TulsaFan No worries, man - just had a feeling to reach out for assistance, and y'all are on my speed dial for the Baroness Helpline!


----------



## TulsaFan

Tmank87 said:


> Really loving these machines.


How about posting a picture of your lawn with the 26" stripes? I bet your lawn looks amazing after the new mower!!! Maybe we can go ahead and nominate it for the August LOTM! :thumbup:


----------



## Tmank87

@TulsaFan I'll try to snag one tomorrow after work and put it up. The wide stripes are pretty awesome.

I am about 7 days into my first application of PGR, tonight's cut was a dream!

Hopefully some rain on Tuesday will help with some heat stressed areas I have - been oppressively hot here in NC.


----------



## learnt

My goal was to mow tonight, and, instead - I decided to do the right thing and fix my silly mistake, so there wouldn't be a chance for the grease to separate out and run the gears too hot.

*Right side gear box update*:









The grease was literally packed in there roughly 1/2" high... Wow.

*And, you know the old saying - when it rains it pours...*:



Dropped the socket wrench right on it - thought I was protected by the glass screen protector. Nope. Smashed that and the screen itself.

Oh, and I broke off one of the case bolts by over tightening. More fun for another weekend.

I WILL MOW TOMORROW MORNING BEFORE WORK. :mrgreen: Put some metal tape over the hole left bare by the broken bolt.

Summary of my experience today:

- respect grease;
- a little goes a long way;
- don't over tighten bolts that you've been warned about;
- I am 100% more comfortable with this machine, now.
- I will be generous with myself and call this experience 'bonding' with the Baroness.
- It all might've been for the best given my discomfort with mechanical devices and engines alike.


----------



## Mightyquinn

A light coating would be what you have in the picture of the smaller gear housing.


----------



## learnt

@Mightyquinn :thumbup: All good. Mowed fine this morning. Thanks once more for your help this weekend.


----------



## learnt

*
Finally got around to getting this uploaded!

*Presenting:*

[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZG-5SoPA6p0[/media]

Really helped take the guess work out of installing my groomer. Although the diagram in the owner's manual is a good reference and basically shows you how it's done... this is a step-by-step instructional on how to put it all together.


----------



## TulsaFan

Where did you find this video of Graeme?


----------



## learnt

@TulsaFan Mr. Parris came on a DVD that was packed away in one of the boxes Bryan sent me.


----------



## ThomasPI

learnt said:


> @TulsaFan Mr. Parris came on a DVD that was packed away in one of the boxes Bryan sent me.


Interesting any other good informative or instructional video ?


----------



## TulsaFan

learnt said:


> @TulsaFan Mr. Parris came on a DVD that was packed away in one of the boxes Bryan sent me.


I guess I would have known had I played the same DVD he sent with my Dethatcher! :? :lol:


----------



## ThomasPI

Are there any general maintenance/mechanical related videos floating around ?


----------



## cpVA

TulsaFan said:


> learnt said:
> 
> 
> 
> @TulsaFan Mr. Parris came on a DVD that was packed away in one of the boxes Bryan sent me.
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I would have known had I played the same DVD he sent with my Dethatcher! :? :lol:
Click to expand...

Picked up my Baroness yesterday and it is a fantastic machine! Would like to thank TulsaFan for helping me the past few days and for taking the time to answer my many questions. He is very knowledgeable about these mowers and it was great to have his help.


----------



## learnt

cpVA said:


> Picked up my Baroness yesterday and it is a fantastic machine! Would like to thank TulsaFan for helping me the past few days and for taking the time to answer my many questions. He is very knowledgeable about these mowers and it was great to have his help.


Is your unit new?! If not, could have fooled me!!  Glad to see someone else joining the party! :thumbup:


----------



## TulsaFan

Your mower looks fantastic! Congratulations again on your purchase!


----------



## cpVA

The mower is an older model but is practically in brand new condition. Best I can tell it has a few hours on it. Today is my first time cutting with it but I can't imagine that there is a better machine made. Very happy with Baroness!


----------



## Mightyquinn

Congrats on the purchase and welcome to the family!!!! Where did you get it at??


----------



## ctrav

Congrats on what looks like a gem of a find!!


----------



## TulsaFan

Tmank87 said:


> @TulsaFan I'll try to snag one tomorrow after work and put it up. The wide stripes are pretty awesome.
> 
> I am about 7 days into my first application of PGR, tonight's cut was a dream!
> 
> Hopefully some rain on Tuesday will help with some heat stressed areas I have - been oppressively hot here in NC.


Did I somehow miss the pictures of your stripes?


----------



## cpVA

Mightyquinn said:


> Congrats on the purchase and welcome to the family!!!! Where did you get it at??


I drove almost 4 hours each way to Eastern Turf Equipment to pick it up. Looks like a good family to be a part of.


----------



## Tmank87

TulsaFan said:


> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @TulsaFan I'll try to snag one tomorrow after work and put it up. The wide stripes are pretty awesome.
> 
> I am about 7 days into my first application of PGR, tonight's cut was a dream!
> 
> Hopefully some rain on Tuesday will help with some heat stressed areas I have - been oppressively hot here in NC.
> 
> 
> 
> Did I somehow miss the pictures of your stripes?
Click to expand...

Ha! I wish you had. I've been jammed up with work and kids all week. Laying down some fresh ones this weekend and will revert!


----------



## ISU

Fellas, in need of your assistance. The mower bugs down on me when I first started, does this for first few tries. Seems once mower is warmed up it runs strong like normal. This began to happen ever since I set the throttle speed back a bit so it wouldn't be as fast. Currently I am only able to run it on the max speed otherwise will begin to have same issue with mower.

I cleaned the carb, didn't seem dirty to me. Any ideas?


----------



## TulsaFan

ISU said:


> Fellas, in need of your assistance. The mower bugs down on me when I first started, does this for first few tries. Seems once mower is warmed up it runs strong like normal. This began to happen ever since I set the throttle speed back a bit so it wouldn't be as fast. Currently I am only able to run it on the max speed otherwise will begin to have same issue with mower.
> 
> I cleaned the carb, didn't seem dirty to me. Any ideas?


Post a picture of your throttle control. I believe the first five Baroness owners have different throttle controls than most of the "MN13".

Have you tried to run it with the gas tank cap off/untwisted to make sure there is not vapor lock?


----------



## Mightyquinn

What is the choke set on when you start it?


----------



## ISU

TulsaFan said:


> ISU said:
> 
> 
> 
> Fellas, in need of your assistance. The mower bugs down on me when I first started, does this for first few tries. Seems once mower is warmed up it runs strong like normal. This began to happen ever since I set the throttle speed back a bit so it wouldn't be as fast. Currently I am only able to run it on the max speed otherwise will begin to have same issue with mower.
> 
> I cleaned the carb, didn't seem dirty to me. Any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> Post a picture of your throttle control. I believe the first five Baroness owners have different throttle controls than most of the "MN13".
> 
> Have you tried to run it with the gas tank cap off/untwisted to make sure there is not vapor lock?
Click to expand...

I have not tried running it with gas tank cap off/untwisted yet, i'll Try that tomorrow. Here's the throttle control type.


----------



## ISU

Mightyquinn said:


> What is the choke set on when you start it?


This is choke/gas setting at start up.



And setting once it runs...

.

Even when choke set in middle the mower will bug down if I don't have the throttle setting on max speed. What's weird is that first time I set throttle speed back a bit it didn't have any issues, next time I went to mow I tried backing off speed again and that's when I began to have issues with mower bugging down. ( mower sounds like it's trying to stay running but end up bugging down)


----------



## Mightyquinn

Have you tried adjusting the carburetor idle screw? If it's not that, try cleaning the carb again if that doesn't work it could be the carb is just bad. Also make sure all the gaskets are good and the carb is seated correctly including the bowl gasket.


----------



## ISU

Mightyquinn said:


> Have you tried adjusting the carburetor idle screw? If it's not that, try cleaning the carb again if that doesn't work it could be the carb is just bad. Also make sure all the gaskets are good and the carb is seated correctly including the bowl gasket.


Negative but i'll Give that a try. Which one is the idle screw? Do I tighten or loosen?


----------



## Mightyquinn

You will have to remove the air filter to get to the screw and tightening it will increase your idle speed(RPM).

Also check this out. Honda Carb Check Sheet


----------



## Tmank87

The bolt that 'locks' the front roller into place for HOC adjustment broke off on me.

Anyone know the size carriage bolt needed?

No pics still.. two kids literally vomiting on me yesterday. Didn't finish cutting till 9P!


----------



## Mightyquinn

Tmank87 said:


> The bolt that 'locks' the front roller into place for HOC adjustment broke off on me.
> 
> Anyone know the size carriage bolt needed?
> 
> No pics still.. two kids literally vomiting on me yesterday. Didn't finish cutting till 9P!


According to the manual it looks like it's a M8 45mm carriage bolt


----------



## Tmank87

My man. Thanks. I wasn't smart enough to figure it out even looking at the manual.

Another stupid question. Instead of getting the nut that came with the unit, can I use another? Part of the old bolt is broken off in the nut.


----------



## Mightyquinn

BTW they are M8-1.25 threads. I'm sure you can use another nut as long as it tightens all the way. The nut is called a "coupling nut" incase you were curious.


----------



## Tmank87

@Mightyquinn you're my hero


----------



## ISU

Mightyquinn said:


> You will have to remove the air filter to get to the screw and tightening it will increase your idle speed(RPM).
> 
> Also check this out. Honda Carb Check Sheet


Just wanted to give an update. I tried a method provided by TulsaFan and mower fired right up strong just like on day one (started mower with the gas cap untwisted and Tighten back once running). Now throttle speed still at max so I assume mower will give me issues when I go back off throttle speed again, but for now will just keep it on max. Gave it a go while in the garage so hoping no issues coming Tuesday when I go mow again. If issue persist I will move to the idle screw and/or carb diagnostics per your link provided (very handy).


----------



## ThomasPI

Have a look here: https://seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-official-video-tips-for-your-lawn-mower/


----------



## learnt

*
Just updating everyone here: decals are in!

If you're still interested - PM me directly with your shipping details and quantity desired ('K' logo, and 'Baroness' logo). In my free time this week, I'll go search out the best postage for getting them to you safely, and from there we'll PayPal and mail out!

Check 'em out!!!



They are super thick and super tacky (in a good way). I cleaned off all excess adhesive from the previous stickers, gave the decal areas a quick wash, then an alcohol wipe down, let it dry - and, finally, peeled and placed each decal as best I could. The 'Baroness' sticker was slightly tricky - but, I'm a happy camper!

*Cross posting on other Baroness mower thread FYI.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

I've got my oil changed, zerks greased up, set the HOC to 0.5", and adjusted the reel to bedknife to cut paper. The mower starts with one pull.

I have to wait until after the weekend to reset the HOC on my yard. Can't have the yard looking terribly scalped when we have guests this weekend. I hope my maiden voyage is smooth.


----------



## zeus201

learnt said:


> *
> Just updating everyone here: decals are in!
> 
> If you're still interested - PM me directly with your shipping details and quantity desired ('K' logo, and 'Baroness' logo). In my free time this week, I'll go search out the best postage for getting them to you safely, and from there we'll PayPal and mail out!
> 
> Check 'em out!!!
> 
> 
> 
> They are super thick and super tacky (in a good way). I cleaned off all excess adhesive from the previous stickers, gave the decal areas a quick wash, then an alcohol wipe down, let it dry - and, finally, peeled and placed each decal as best I could. The 'Baroness' sticker was slightly tricky - but, I'm a happy camper!
> 
> *Cross posting on other Baroness mower thread FYI.


That looks awesome, looks like a good replacement!


----------



## Tmank87

Took the turf down to .70 tonight ahead of tomorrow's aeration. First time ever under 1"!

Was much easier to adjust the HOC than I thought despite breaking off the bolt in the nut.

Thanks to @Mightyquinn I got what I needed and got her set. Used a DIY HOC bar. Have an accu gage on the way.

I'm probably hooked to keep going lower. Thank God for PGR!


----------



## bigmks

learnt said:


> @TulsaFan Mr. Parris came on a DVD that was packed away in one of the boxes Bryan sent me.


Did you have to take the front roller off to add the groomer?


----------



## TulsaFan

No


----------



## ThomasPI

learnt said:


> *
> Just updating everyone here: decals are in!
> 
> If you're still interested - PM me directly with your shipping details and quantity desired ('K' logo, and 'Baroness' logo). In my free time this week, I'll go search out the best postage for getting them to you safely, and from there we'll PayPal and mail out!
> 
> Check 'em out!!!
> 
> 
> 
> They are super thick and super tacky (in a good way). I cleaned off all excess adhesive from the previous stickers, gave the decal areas a quick wash, then an alcohol wipe down, let it dry - and, finally, peeled and placed each decal as best I could. The 'Baroness' sticker was slightly tricky - but, I'm a happy camper!
> 
> *Cross posting on other Baroness mower thread FYI.


Somehow missed this, pm sent.


----------



## SC Grass Loon

Big thanks to @TulsaFan for the heads up on these mowers. My LM56 is in great condition, I had to make a slight reel to bedknife adjustment to get it to cut paper all the way across. I changed the oil, spark plug and filter. It starts on the first half of the pull and it cuts great.

A question for those on the upper end of the HOC. I tried to attach the grass catcher this past weekend and I cannot adjust the arm stoppers in tight enough to allow the catcher roller to rest on the ground. The lowest position the I can get it to rest with transport wheels off is about 1/2" off the ground. In the manual it states to have it set at the same height as the front roller. Any ideas?


----------



## learnt

SC Grass Loon said:


> Big thanks to @TulsaFan for the heads up on these mowers. My LM56 is in great condition, I had to make a slight reel to bedknife adjustment to get it to cut paper all the way across. I changed the oil, spark plug and filter. It starts on the first half of the pull and it cuts great.
> 
> A question for those on the upper end of the HOC. I tried to attach the grass catcher this past weekend and I cannot adjust the arm stoppers in tight enough to allow the catcher roller to rest on the ground. The lowest position the I can get it to rest with transport wheels off is about 1/2" off the ground. In the manual it states to have it set at the same height as the front roller. Any ideas?


I'm maxed out on HOC... since my foray into sub 1" did not go well...

At max height adjustment... my grass catcher and the roller is up the in air, too. So, nothing out of the ordinary - unless another, more experienced user can shed light on the subject.

*ALSO... Sorry for the delay in decals, y'all! I will ship them out this week! After counting all of the current 'orders', I still have plenty available for those who might want some.*


----------



## SC Grass Loon

learnt said:


> I'm maxed out on HOC... since my foray into sub 1" did not go well...
> 
> At max height adjustment... my grass catcher and the roller is up the in air, too. So, nothing out of the ordinary - unless another, more experienced user can shed light on the subject.
> 
> *ALSO... Sorry for the delay in decals, y'all! I will ship them out this week! After counting all of the current 'orders', I still have plenty available for those who might want some.*


Thanks for the reply it is good to know I am not the outlier in this regard. I will try to post up a pic later this week for others to better see what I am referencing.


----------



## TulsaFan

Mowing at 1" sounds like the problem to me! :lol:

In all seriousness, I started reel mowing at 1.0". Then, I lowered it again to 0.75" with my Trucut. When I purchased the Baroness, I scalped it at 3/8" with the Trucut one last time. Then, I set my HOC at 0.6" without ever adding sand to smooth the lawn. It looks decent, but sand would make a huge difference!


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

SC Grass Loon said:


> Big thanks to @TulsaFan for the heads up on these mowers. My LM56 is in great condition, I had to make a slight reel to bedknife adjustment to get it to cut paper all the way across. I changed the oil, spark plug and filter. It starts on the first half of the pull and it cuts great.
> 
> A question for those on the upper end of the HOC. I tried to attach the grass catcher this past weekend and I cannot adjust the arm stoppers in tight enough to allow the catcher roller to rest on the ground. The lowest position the I can get it to rest with transport wheels off is about 1/2" off the ground. In the manual it states to have it set at the same height as the front roller. Any ideas?


I attached my IGCA on my LM56 and it's also riding off the ground. I have my HOC at at 0.5" for my scalp soon. It has a hook that I I think should be resting on the headlight, but I haven't had time to play with the knobs yet to adjust it.

Edit. So I got home and took the hook off the headlight and now it's resting on the ground. Not sure what the point of the hook is.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

I took my first cut today. Test cut in the backyard. I struggled getting the reel to start at first. I had the selector on reel, engine switch on, throttle at about half, fuel valve opened, and choke open. Pulled the cord and it'd start like before. Turned the choke off, pushed the safety lock lever and engaged the clutch but the engine would instantly shut off. It did that about 3 times.

I finally got it to work after letting the engine warm up slightly with the choke at about half, then closed it and the reel started to run. Not sure why, maybe the engine needed to cycle some new oil after being stored for so long?

The mower was cutting okay at 0.5" for my HOC reset scalp. My grass was a bit long at about 3" so it'd fold over in lots of areas and not cut. I went over the same areas about 4 times and still ended up with a few stragglers. I'm not sure if the FOC is at high or low, or if it'd even help at that grass height. I could feel the mower bouncing a lot as my yard is far from level, but the majority of the backyard is scalped now.

In preparation for tomorrow's front yard cut, I went over the rest of my grass with my rotary at 1.5" so it won't fold over from the rollers. This is my first cut with a reel mower and trying to get the hang of it. I hope to get my lawn looking good soon!


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Given my stalling issues, I think I might have to clean out the carburetor jet. I'm considering replacing the whole carburetor anyway and air filter while I'm at it. I ordered an air filter from Amazon but it is too tall. Has anyone found a suitable air filter replacement?


----------



## TulsaFan

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> Given my stalling issues, I think I might have to clean out the carburetor jet. I'm considering replacing the whole carburetor anyway and air filter while I'm at it. I ordered an air filter from Amazon but it is too tall. Has anyone found a suitable air filter replacement?


This is a great video you may want to watch:


----------



## Mightyquinn

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> Given my stalling issues, I think I might have to clean out the carburetor jet. I'm considering replacing the whole carburetor anyway and air filter while I'm at it. I ordered an air filter from Amazon but it is too tall. Has anyone found a suitable air filter replacement?


These ones from Amazon should fit HIPA 2-Pack Air Filters. If you want OEM you will have to go through Jack's Small Engines


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

TulsaFan said:


> This is a great video you may want to watch:


Thank you, that was very informative. I don't have much knowledge on gas engines, so I think I had my terms mixed up.

To clarify, I had the engine switch on, fuel valve open, and choke on before pulling the starter cord. The engine will run and sputter until I turn the choke off and it'll sound normal. When the throttle was low, there'd be times that I engage the clutch and the mower will die. I raised the throttle and the mower will run and cut, but eventually the drum and reel will not turn. I thought I was putting too much load on the mower, so I raised the HOC from 0.5" to 0.6" and adjusted the reel-to-bedknife contact so that it'd spin more freely while still cutting paper. That helped a little more, but I still occasionally had the same issues where the reel and drum wouldn't move when I engaged the clutch.

I do think there might be a fuel blockage, and given how long these mowers have sat in storage, the jet being clogged might be the culprit. The jet cleaning may be the only issue, but there's a chance I run into more. Replacing the carburetor doesn't look too difficult from YouTube videos I've watched so I'm considering doing that will solve the problem or problems.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Mightyquinn said:


> These ones from Amazon should fit HIPA 2-Pack Air Filters. If you want OEM you will have to go through Jack's Small Engines


Thank you. I ordered the one from Amazon through your link. :thumbup:


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

I just replaced the carburetor. It was actually easier than I thought it'd be. Took me about 20 minutes with only YouTube videos as knowledge. It'd probably take less than 5 minutes if you knew what you were doing. The hardest part was removing the fuel hose. I spilled a bit of gasoline while doing it. The only tools you need are a 10mm ratchet and some needle nose pliers.

I gave it a test run and the mower runs well once it warmed up for 20 seconds at idle. No more stalling when the throttle is low. The reel and drum turn when I engage the clutch. I don't have any mowing to do for maybe 2-3 more weeks as my grass recovers from the scalp I gave it, but I hope that's the last issue I run into!


----------



## cpVA

I have the 11 blade reel but have had some minor washboarding cutting at 3/4 inch. It seemed to go away with the hoc lowered to 1/2 inch but the zoysia grass does not look as healthy this low. Was wondering if anyone else is using the 9 blade reel? Thinking about getting one for next season. I will try to vertical cut and maintain at 3/4 next year with the 11 blade and see if that helps, too late to vertical cut this year.


----------



## Mightyquinn

cpVA said:


> I have the 11 blade reel but have had some minor washboarding cutting at 3/4 inch. It seemed to go away with the hoc lowered to 1/2 inch but the zoysia grass does not look as healthy this low. Was wondering if anyone else is using the 9 blade reel? Thinking about getting one for next season. I will try to vertical cut and maintain at 3/4 next year with the 11 blade and see if that helps, too late to vertical cut this year.


Have you tried adjusting the Frequency of Cut setting from Low to High or High to Low to see if that helps with the washboarding? I have never had an issue with washboarding no matter what HOC I have cut at with mine. A new 9 Blade reel will set you back $700-800. I have one in my older Baroness but have not cut with it yet, probably waiting until next year to take it out.


----------



## cpVA

I tried mowing at the higher setting but changed back to the low frequency of cut setting. I am letting it grow out now and will cut again just under an inch to see if I get the washboarding. We are going to get 6 plus inches of rain with Dorian so it should be this weekend. The grass is super thick and its almost like mowing on ice. I have read that it's time to vertical cut when the mower starts to slide so it is very likely that is the reason for the washboarding and not the 11 blade reel. Thank you for the response and let me know how you like the 9 blade next year.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

With my HOC at 1", I get a few stragglers that don't get cut. Would the groomer help stand up the grass so it gets cut evenly? I'm not even sure if I can attach it. I don't think Bryan gave me all the parts. I think I'm missing the height adjusters.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

I have joined the FAMILY!!

#baronesslife #reelmowlow #greensmower


----------



## ctrav

Backyard Soldier said:


> I have joined the FAMILY!!
> 
> #baronesslife #reelmowlow #greensmower


Congrats...that is so awesome!


----------



## zeus201

Looks super clean, welcome to the family!


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Spent the day giving the new rig a cleaning. I also removed the old stickers and replaced them with @learnt stickers. I touched painted a few areas and installed the Groomer attachment.

Here are pics I took during the process.


----------



## ctrav

Backyard Soldier said:


> Spent the day giving the new rig a cleaning. I also removed the old stickers and replaced them with @learnt stickers. I touched painted a few areas and installed the Groomer attachment.
> 
> Here are pics I took during the process.


Good job and beautiful mower!


----------



## TulsaFan

Mower looks great! I love the enthusiasm!!! :thumbup:

If you are this OCD about your mower, I can't wait to see the results with your lawn!


----------



## Backyard Soldier

TulsaFan said:


> Mower looks great! I love the enthusiasm!!! :thumbup:
> 
> If you are this OCD about your mower, I can't wait to see the results with your lawn!


Hahahaha. I need to level next growing season. It's not bad for my TruCut but for the lower HOCs I want , I need to do better. Thanks for the tip on the safety,,,it's gone! 



ctrav said:


> Backyard Soldier said:
> 
> 
> 
> Spent the day giving the new rig a cleaning. I also removed the old stickers and replaced them with @learnt stickers. I touched painted a few areas and installed the Groomer attachment.
> 
> Here are pics I took during the process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good job and beautiful mower!
Click to expand...

Thanks man!, I'm looking forward to getting into lower HOCs areas with this beast.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Did anyone who bought a Baroness from Bryan at Yamaha Golf and Utility happen to get an extra pair of height adjusters for their groomer? Bryan didn't include it with mine and he hasn't been able to find a spare set.


----------



## zeus201

I did not


----------



## TulsaFan

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> Did anyone who bought a Baroness from Bryan at Yamaha Golf and Utility happen to get an extra pair of height adjusters for their groomer? Bryan didn't include it with mine and he hasn't been able to find a spare set.


Worse case scenario, you can contact the corporate office in Richmond, CA. to order replacement parts: [email protected]

Hopefully, someone finds your missing parts in one of their other accessory boxes!


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

TulsaFan said:


> DuncanMcDonuts said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did anyone who bought a Baroness from Bryan at Yamaha Golf and Utility happen to get an extra pair of height adjusters for their groomer? Bryan didn't include it with mine and he hasn't been able to find a spare set.
> 
> 
> 
> Worse case scenario, you can contact the corporate office in Richmond, CA. to order replacement parts: [email protected]
> 
> Hopefully, someone finds your missing parts in one of their other accessory boxes!
Click to expand...

That's what I'm thinking happened. I have the groomer and the left bracket, but I don't have the height adjuster bolt-nut-spring assembly. It was probably placed with a dethatcher, and someone likely has two of them.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Hey guys...anyone have a good link to the proper parts manual for our generation of LM56s (from Bryan)? The manuals I've found are for either the old @ss models or the really new ones. I'm trying to order some new pins for the roller and groomer adjustment brackets and want to make sure I get the correct ones.

Or are they pretty much the same across all generations?


----------



## TulsaFan

https://baroness.us/pdfs/#LM18


----------



## Startingout

Looks like my first backlap is this week. Please don't try to ID that grass. You may end up with heart palpitations.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Got my "First Cut" with the Baroness done over the weekend. I took it down to .600. Groomer set to .300. Lawn growth has slowed dramatically in recent week or so. Not sure how much longer I have till dormancy kicks in.

Mowing with my new rig was such a joy. It purred along nicely. I can't wait to level next Spring and really maximize the greens potential. For now I'm just having fun with it.

Waiting to get my Grass catcher alignment pinstripes in from amazon and be done with the cosmetics.


----------



## ctrav

Backyard Soldier said:


> Got my "First Cut" with the Baroness done over the weekend. I took it down to .600. Groomer set to .300. Lawn growth has slowed dramatically in recent week or so. Not sure how much longer I have till dormancy kicks in.
> 
> Mowing with my new rig was such a joy. It purred along nicely. I can't wait to level next Spring and really maximize the greens potential. For now I'm just having fun with it.
> 
> Waiting to get my Grass catcher alignment pinstripes in from amazon and be done with the cosmetics.


Such a bad *** looking mower! Every time I see a pic of one I want it...👍🏾👍🏾


----------



## Startingout

That's a good looking mower! Clean!


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Startingout said:


> That's a good looking mower! Clean!


[/quote]

Such a bad @ss looking mower! Every time I see a pic of one I want it...👍🏾👍🏾
[/quote]

Thanks guys...I lucked out to grab it in such a great condition. It's a truly great piece of machinery.


----------



## Startingout

I'll share mine. Couldn't be happier with this machine.


----------



## TulsaFan

Startingout said:


> I'll share mine. Couldn't be happier with this machine.


Very nice!

Is your light LED?


----------



## Startingout

Halogen. My light came busted and wanted to maintain the functionality so I reached out to Baroness for a replacement kit. Easy install.

One issue that someone may be able to address, The left throttle level doesn't seem to really do anything. Is this the same for others?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Congrats on the purchase!!! i don't think there are too many of us that have the thumb throttle like you have but just make sure the cable isn't binding or it just might need lubed.


----------



## ThomasPI

Looking great, y'all are making me jealous. My 26 is in my garage until the new house is done in the spring.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Looks nice. From the looks of the catcher it's a newer generation to the series I have.

Mine also didn't have a working lamp, so I just did the same as @Mightyquinn and removed my entire mounting bracket. Don't miss it hehe.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Backyard Soldier said:


> Looks nice. From the looks of the catcher it's a newer generation to the series I have.
> 
> Mine also didn't have a working lamp, so I just did the same as @Mightyquinn and removed my entire mounting bracket. Don't miss it hehe.


The grass catcher on his mower is different because he doesn't have the Independent Grass Catcher with the roller on it. His attaches directly to the mower.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Mightyquinn said:


> Backyard Soldier said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks nice. From the looks of the catcher it's a newer generation to the series I have.
> 
> Mine also didn't have a working lamp, so I just did the same as @Mightyquinn and removed my entire mounting bracket. Don't miss it hehe.
> 
> 
> 
> The grass catcher on his mower is different because he doesn't have the Independent Grass Catcher with the roller on it. His attaches directly to the mower.
Click to expand...

Ahhhh....I didn't even realize that detail. If I recall correctly, there's a newer GCA in the newer models that uses two arms rather than the single one in mine.


----------



## TulsaFan

Time for the family to grow. Someone sell some Amazon stock and buy one of these for next spring. :thumbup:


----------



## zeus201

LM101 would be my choice!


----------



## ISU

Haha! Time to shop for a "back up" unit...don't need one (or have room in the garage for that matter )but sure would be nice to get my hands on another baroness&#128513;.


----------



## Mightyquinn

ISU said:


> Haha! Time to shop for a "back up" unit...don't need one (or have room in the garage for that matter )but sure would be nice to get my hands on another baroness😁.


It is VERY nice to have a back up unit :thumbup:


----------



## Christech11

Hey everyone. I'm looking at joining the Baroness family in the near future and wanted to see if anyone has some recommendations for shipping from NY to MS. I've sent a couple of y'all PM but I'm not sure how the notifications work for those and with it being the off season I figured this might be easier.

I currently use a 27" TC so any questions I should ask or anything stick out from the photos I should ask about? Thanks.

@ThomasPI @andynese


----------



## gpbrown60

Christech11 said:


> Hey everyone. I'm looking at joining the Baroness family in the near future and wanted to see if anyone has some recommendations for shipping from NY to MS. I've sent a couple of y'all PM but I'm not sure how the notifications work for those and with it being the off season I figured this might be easier.
> 
> I currently use a 27" TC so any questions I should ask or anything stick out from the photos I should ask about? Thanks.


I have no recommendations for shipping as I purchased my Baroness locally. If the seller is reputable I assume you will be safe in your internet purchase. You want to know the condition and age of the unit and if the reel and bedknife have been replaced. A bent or abused blade and/or bedknife would be costly. Mechanically, I have never had a problem with my unit and don't know of any recalls or models to stay away from.

Maybe I am not seeing it but it appears that the front grooved roller is missing from the unit(s) in the pictures. A grooved front roller is needed and should come with purchase. I would ask if multiple attachments are available. It would be nice to have all three attachments (groomer, dethatcher, & brush) but not a deal breaker. You definitely want the carriage and grass catcher.

Hopefully, a few other Baroness owners in the forum will comment. They may have additional helpful info. :thumbup:


----------



## ISU

Fellas, those of you that have replaced the carburetor on these units....where did u get them from? looking to replace the carburetor on mine this winter. I see Amazon has a carburetor kit for Honda GX 120 engines for $20-$30? That can't be right. I did search within Honda site but there is a long list of diff GX 120 engines models so wasn't sure which would be the correct one.

DuncanMcDonuts- I read thru prior posts and looks like u had yours changed, where did you end up getting it from?


----------



## Ware

ISU said:


> ...I see Amazon has a carburetor kit for Honda GX 120 engines for $20-$30? That can't be right...


You can buy a whole new GX120 engine for $320 shipped, so $20-30 for a carb kit is actually not inconceivable.

That's the great thing about greens mowers with Honda engines - parts are cheap and abundant. :thumbup:


----------



## Backyard Soldier

ISU said:


> Fellas, those of you that have replaced the carburetor on these units....where did u get them from? looking to replace the carburetor on mine this winter. I see Amazon has a carburetor kit for Honda GX 120 engines for $20-$30? That can't be right. I did search within Honda site but there is a long list of diff GX 120 engines models so wasn't sure which would be the correct one.
> 
> DuncanMcDonuts- I read thru prior posts and looks like u had yours changed, where did you end up getting it from?


This sounds about right. I replaced mine with a carb from amazon that cost me $16. Worked like a charm too.

Here's the one I used:

New GX120 Carburetor Air Filter Spark Plug for Honda GX120 GX160 GX168 GX200 Small Engines https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7NS99C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_U9EjEbZ3J8QG1


----------



## ISU

Ware said:


> ISU said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...I see Amazon has a carburetor kit for Honda GX 120 engines for $20-$30? That can't be right...
> 
> 
> 
> You can buy a whole new GX120 engine for $320 shipped, so $20-30 for a carb kit is actually not inconceivable.
> 
> That's the great thing about greens mowers with Honda engines - parts are cheap and abundant. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Was not expecting that, the price just blew me away! I was thinking it would be north of $100 (I recall a carb for a toro greensmaster being $120). Reel of unit is worth double the engine haha crazy. L


----------



## ISU

:lol:


Backyard Soldier said:


> ISU said:
> 
> 
> 
> Fellas, those of you that have replaced the carburetor on these units....where did u get them from? looking to replace the carburetor on mine this winter. I see Amazon has a carburetor kit for Honda GX 120 engines for $20-$30? That can't be right. I did search within Honda site but there is a long list of diff GX 120 engines models so wasn't sure which would be the correct one.
> 
> DuncanMcDonuts- I read thru prior posts and looks like u had yours changed, where did you end up getting it from?
> 
> 
> 
> This sounds about right. I replaced mine with a carb from amazon that cost me $16. Worked like a charm too.
> 
> Here's the one I used:
> 
> New GX120 Carburetor Air Filter Spark Plug for Honda GX120 GX160 GX168 GX200 Small Engines https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C7NS99C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_U9EjEbZ3J8QG1
Click to expand...

I'll proceed with getting the same one, just figured there was no way would be so cheap when dealing with parts of a greensmower. The Baroness might just be the best money spent by far on a mower.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Yeah, like others said, the carbs are pretty cheap on these engines. This is the one I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AAX943Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

I figured with these engines being as idle as they've been, the carbs were dirty. People recommended cleaning jet intakes because the fuel cakes it up, but with as cheap as it was, I decided to replace the whole thing and save myself the headache of other potential carb issues.

I replaced the air filter, too, because it wasn't that expensive of a part. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MR4ZPAC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It ran fine afterwards! The only other troubleshooting things I can recall is I had too much reel-to-bedknife contact making the engine struggle to turn the reel. Mostly a newbie issue, but maybe one that can help others.

I need to contact those dealers in Arkansas for some parts so I can attach my groomer to use this season. Also need to find someone to sharpen my reel in Austin. Do you guys sharpen before or after you scalp? Most people seem to do it in the offseason, but scalping would dull the reel wouldn't it? I was thinking I'd sharpen the reel after scalping.


----------



## Ware

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> ...Do you guys sharpen before or after you scalp? Most people seem to do it in the offseason, but scalping would dull the reel wouldn't it? I was thinking I'd sharpen the reel after scalping.


If you have someone that will grind your reel in the spring after the scalp, I agree, that would be ideal. I think you see a lot of homeowners get their reels serviced in the offseason because that's when local golf course mechanics tend to have more downtime.


----------



## TulsaFan

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> I need to contact those dealers in Arkansas for some parts so I can attach my groomer to use this season. Also need to find someone to sharpen my reel in Austin. Do you guys sharpen before or after you scalp? Most people seem to do it in the offseason, but scalping would dull the reel wouldn't it? I was thinking I'd sharpen the reel after scalping.


Last year, I used my Trucut to scalp my lawn. For this years scalp, I found a McLane a few weeks ago that I am going to use. Then, I will flip it. No need for my Baroness to take the scalping abuse. :thumbup:

Grinding info should you take it to a golf course in/near Austin after your scalp. *(Super important for them to have this angle info!)*

There are no Baroness dealers in Texas or Arkansas. So, you will have to use the Richmond, CA corporate office as your dealer. Here is the email for ordering parts: [email protected]


----------



## DetroitRocker

Hi all - this is my first full season with the Baroness (LM56)! I am about a month out from the opening season scalp, but am curious if you all use the dethatcher for the first run as well?

And if so, do you scalp first, then dethatch?

I don't see much in the user manual covering the dethatcher, so any other feedback you can provide would be very much appreciated.


----------



## Mightyquinn

DetroitRocker said:


> Hi all - this is my first full season with the Baroness (LM56)! I am about a month out from the opening season scalp, but am curious if you all use the dethatcher for the first run as well?
> 
> And if so, do you scalp first, then dethatch?
> 
> I don't see much in the user manual covering the dethatcher, so any other feedback you can provide would be very much appreciated.


Do you have the Dethatcher or the Groomer on your mower? The Groomer will have more tightly spaced very thin blades while the Dethatcher will have about half as many blades but they will be much thicker and unable to easily bend with your fingers.

You can use the Groomer/Dethatcher for scalping in the Spring but do not expect great results with it as you might expect with a stand alone machine as they aren't designed for that purpose. They are more for maintaining the lawn then they are for renovating.

If you are going to be scalping with the Baroness you may want to back off the bedknife to reel spacing as you don't really need a fine cut while scalping and it will help save your bedknife too since you will be down in the dirt and the dry blades of grass will dull the face of the bedknife. I have some "used" bedknives that I keep around just for this purpose so I don't have to worry about dulling my good ones. It doesn't take long to swap them out especially if you replace the bedknife bolts from flat head to Torx. :thumbup:


----------



## DetroitRocker

@Mightyquinn I have the groomer on the mower right now. It sounds like I may be better off just renting a stand-alone unit at Home Depot or Lowes? Or is the dethatching step not even necessary?

Good call on the extra bedknife. Is there a specific site I can pickup an extra?


----------



## Backyard Soldier

I think you have to work with a dealer for parts. MQ is lucky to have a parts dealer in his backyard. I've tried to order extra parts but communication has been frustrating via phone or email. Good luck.


----------



## Mightyquinn

DetroitRocker said:


> @Mightyquinn I have the groomer on the mower right now. It sounds like I may be better off just renting a stand-alone unit at Home Depot or Lowes? Or is the dethatching step not even necessary?
> 
> Good call on the extra bedknife. Is there a specific site I can pickup an extra?


It all depends on how mature and thick your lawn is on whether you need or want to verticut your lawn. I find it's good to do it to help "reset" the lawn at the beginning of the year as it removes all the build up of stolons that create a mat under the blades of grass.

I think @TulsaFan has had good success at ordering parts directly from Baroness in CA. I always have an extra bedknife laying around in case of emergencies.  And I have had mine for a little while so I've gone through some bedknives from trial and error :thumbup:


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> I think @TulsaFan has had good success at ordering parts directly from Baroness in CA.


Correct. I find which parts I need from the Parts Catalog (Version 2). Then, e-mail [email protected] and they will send you a quote.

Here's some bedknife info that Baroness shared with me that might help someone on here...

*"If you are mowing at .5" you can basically go as thick as you want with what we offer. We typically add 1.5mm to the thickness of the bedknife and say that is the minimum hoc you could achieve, possibly slightly lower. You could use a 3mm bedknife, or even a 5mm bedknife when we start selling the high speed tipped bedknives (currently 3mm is the thickest for lm56). You also have the option to go with extended bedknives if you would like to cut less aggressive, extending it 2.5mm, 5mm, or 7.5mm.

Part numbers are: K2511000270 1.5mm, K2511000280 2.0mm, K2510000060 3.0mm, LM55GD-9085A0 1.5mm Extended 2.5mm, K2511000390 1.5mm Ext 5.0mm, K2511000450 2.0mm Ext 2.5 mm, K2511000350 2.0mm ext 5.0mm, K2511000050 2.5mm, K2511000240 2.5mm ext 5mm.

Max you can mow at is 7.5 mm extended. There are 2 types or bedknife bases (bedbars), standard and extended. The extended bedbar is 5mm extended, so if using this bedbar, cannot use the 5mm extended bedknives, only standard and 2.5mm extended."*


----------



## ISU

We had some good temps this weekend here in Iowa (high 50s) so naturally I had to give the Baroness a little cleaning...it might not yet be mowing season for us in the Midwest but that doesn't mean she must remain neglected during the winter :mrgreen:

On a side note, while cleaning the reel I learned my unit actually came with a 7blade reel. For some reason I was thinking it was either a 9 or 11 blade this whole time (I never really checked since picking her up, just thought all of Bryan's units were either 9 or 11) :lol: ... is there a data sheet for the baroness that lets you know the recommend cutting height based on a 7 vs 9 blade? I see manual does provide an overall range(lowest to Max) but doesn't specify HOC based on reel count. Mainly wondering if I should invest in a 9blade reel in the future when maintaining HOC at .62-.75"?this season I'm sure I'll try to push my KBGmix down to .50 and see what I can get away with 😁.


----------



## gpbrown60

ISU said:


> On a side note, while cleaning the reel I learned my unit actually came with a 7blade reel. For some reason I was thinking it was either a 9 or 11 blade this whole time (I never really checked since picking her up, just thought all of Bryan's units were either 9 or 11) :lol: ... is there a data sheet for the baroness that lets you know the recommend cutting height based on a 7 vs 9 blade? I see manual does provide an overall range(lowest to Max) but doesn't specify HOC based on reel count. Mainly wondering if I should invest in a 9blade reel in the future when maintaining HOC at .62-.75"?this season I'm sure I'll try to push my KBGmix down to .50 and see what I can get away with 😁.


I am not aware of a Baroness data sheet for HOC blade recommendations. Just use the mower for a season and see if you like the appearance of the cut. My unit has a High/Low frequency of clip switch that controls the reel rpm. If your unit has this switch you probably want to use the High Frequency Clip. Attached below are links to HOC blade data sheets (Swardman & Caltrimmer) which are somewhat informative. Keep in mind that a new reel is going to be quite expensive!

https://www.swardman.com/us/news/how-to-choose-the-right-reel-for-your-lawn/
https://caltrimmer.com/products/features/blade-comparison/


----------



## TulsaFan




----------



## TulsaFan




----------



## ISU

Thanks fellas! I will start to use the high clip FOC this season and see how it goes. Based on the FOC and blade count info data provided it doesn't appear I should have to go to higher blade count to maintain at .62" or lower with good results. (Unless I'm not reading the cutting height reflected right)

I just recall having more stragglers than I would like once began to drop HOC below .75" so I just ended up double cutting on each mow(which I do not mind at all ). Just thinking more of a way to avoid/limit stragglers so got me wondering if a higher blade count would provide better result or the same result I get when double cutting.

Once mowing season begins here in the midwest I'll follow with results using the high clip rate at .62" or lower with the 7blade reel. :thumbup:


----------



## gpbrown60

TulsaFan said:


>


 :thumbup:


----------



## learnt

I hope everyone is having fun with their mowers ... I moved and my new yard is TRASH. LOL

Super uneven -- lots of leveling work required -- it will take me a long time to get back up and running with the Baroness!


----------



## Christech11

Hey guys new owner here and I need some help. I feel bad because I've leaned on @TulsaFan a lot with getting this thing up and running.

All I can compare this mower to is a older TC C27 which has plenty of power and the same motor. This GX 120 is very quiet and seems to be lacking some power to the point I can't get the mower to pull Itself up a 10* slope. The clutch seems to be stuck and I'm not sure what to try next.

I've made sure the contact isn't too tight and the HOC is raises so it's not dragging. Any ideas?


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Will the mower move if the you set the mower to Travel On? Is it stuck even on full throttle?


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## Christech11

Here is a quick video of the mower running. It barely moves on its own and there is 0 slope to the lawn. Grass is also under 1".

https://youtu.be/JjIQMCqUybM


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## Mightyquinn

It looks like your clutch isn't adjusted correctly or the cable might be stuck. That would be the first thing I would check. Have you lubed the mower at all since you have gotten it? The gears where you adjust it from the "Travel" position to "Reel on" position might not be fully engaged either. That would be something else I would check too.


----------



## surs73

It could also be an issue with the safety lever. Mine would never engage/disengage smoothly....removing the lever solved the problem on my unit.


----------



## Christech11

Mightyquinn said:


> It looks like your clutch isn't adjusted correctly or the cable might be stuck. That would be the first thing I would check. Have you lubed the mower at all since you have gotten it? The gears where you adjust it from the "Travel" position to "Reel on" position might not be fully engaged either. That would be something else I would check too.


It's freshly lubed and when i adjust the travel it does engage for the setting.

Help me out with the clutch adjustment. This is what I see and I have very little to no movement from the lever.


----------



## Mightyquinn

surs73 said:


> It could also be an issue with the safety lever. Mine would never engage/disengage smoothly....removing the lever solved the problem on my unit.


Very good point!!!

I forgot all about this as I have removed the safety from both of my mowers. I would check this first as it may be the culprit.

I have never had to adjust the clutch on either of my mowers so I would have to look it up in the manual. I would just make sure that the cable is moving freely and not binding up at all.


----------



## ISU

Try removing the clutch safety lever (refer to beginning of this thread or the one located within marketplace section for instructions) and let us know if that took care of the issue.


----------



## Christech11

Getting beyond frustrated at this point. I'm going back through the thread and I'm noticing that I don't have this lever that I see in the photos posted throughout the thread. Pardon my ignorance but I was not familiar with these mowers outside of lawnforum.com and didn't have any way to see these things in person before they were bought. Is this the source of my problems?


----------



## Mightyquinn

That is the parking brake, so if you don't have one then I would say "no" that is not the cause of your problems.


----------



## Christech11

ISU said:


> Try removing the clutch safety lever (refer to beginning of this thread or the one located within marketplace section for instructions) and let us know if that took care of the issue.


Removed the spring and still have the same issue. No change.


----------



## Mightyquinn

After looking at your video again, it appears like your clutch is staying engaged. Does the reel move even if the mower is idling?


----------



## Christech11

Mightyquinn said:


> After looking at your video again, it appears like your clutch is staying engaged. Does the reel move even if the mower is idling?


No not really. Once it gets a little push from me it will somewhat hold it's momentum but it never I creases. I can shoot a new video tomorrow.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Have you tried disengaging the reel to Travel On? Or maybe even reducing the reel-to-bedknife contact a lot just to test if it'll move?


----------



## Christech11

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> Have you tried disengaging the reel to Travel On? Or maybe even reducing the reel-to-bedknife contact a lot just to test if it'll move?


"Travel on" or "reel on" I have the same result.

Reel to bedknife contact is non-existent as that was the first thing I tried.


----------



## ISU

Just throwing this out there...what about changing the throttle setting to max (bunny setting)? Per video it appears was on low ? (I could be wrong), Reason I say that is on my unit when first got it I tried the low setting for a more comfortable speed and mower would bug down on me right away so have always kept It on max since with now issues.

Now back to the clutch, per the video I see you are able to engage it completely at the beginning, is that not the case? The way my unit is set up is that the clutch engaged is actually what drives the unit, the throttle bar/cable just rubs up the rpms so I actually don't use the throttle bar to accelerate as doesn't do anything to move it any faster, the clutch is what does that on mine. Not sure if that's how it also works on everyone else's or not but way it works on mine. If you are not able to engage the clutch completely (not able to hold the clutch bar to the handle bar ) then certainly something within the clutch system would definitely be the issue I would think but then again I am no mechanic. Just trying to think of what could be the real issue.

Sorry this unit is having issues for you.... was this one of Bryan's units a lot of us got our baroness from?

If you still can't get it working accordingly perhaps creating a new thread calling out mechanics that work on greensmowers on this forum might diagnose the issue quicker, even if they don't own a Baroness I would think there would be similarities within the other clutch system units from other brands.


----------



## Christech11

Here is a closer look at the potential problem area. There is no play whatsoever on the clutch when the clutch is engaged at the handlebar. If someone would be nice enough to shoot a video of what the movement looks like it would be appreciated. Thanks for all your help.

https://youtu.be/AbcF2dbDP7w


----------



## ISU

Christech11 said:


> Here is a closer look at the potential problem area. There is no play whatsoever on the clutch when the clutch is engaged at the handlebar. If someone would be nice enough to shoot a video of what the movement looks like it would be appreciated. Thanks for all your help.


Check your inbox.


----------



## surs73

I just finished my spring scalp and am ready to have the first service/sharpening since I got the unit last year. Question on the bedknife....how do I know when it needs to be replaced?


----------



## Mightyquinn

surs73 said:


> I just finished my spring scalp and am ready to have the first service/sharpening since I got the unit last year. Question on the bedknife....how do I know when it needs to be replaced?


You shouldn't need any servicing/sharpening after a scalp. All you should need is a good backlap and you should be back in business. If for some reason you can't get it to cut paper evenly that may indicate that you either need to "face" the bedknife or just replace it and you will be back to cutting paper in no time.

Just FYI, it would also be a good idea to blow off the air filter and foam after scalping as it tends to collect a lot of dust/pollen/clippings. Just make sure to blow it off before removing it as you don't want any debris getting down into the carburetor.


----------



## surs73

Mightyquinn said:


> surs73 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I just finished my spring scalp and am ready to have the first service/sharpening since I got the unit last year. Question on the bedknife....how do I know when it needs to be replaced?
> 
> 
> 
> You shouldn't need any servicing/sharpening after a scalp. All you should need is a good backlap and you should be back in business. If for some reason you can't get it to cut paper evenly that may indicate that you either need to "face" the bedknife or just replace it and you will be back to cutting paper in no time.
> 
> Just FYI, it would also be a good idea to blow off the air filter and foam after scalping as it tends to collect a lot of dust/pollen/clippings. Just make sure to blow it off before removing it as you don't want any debris getting down into the carburetor.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I went through the machine last night and it still cuts paper pretty well so maybe I'm in better shape than I thought. Just assumed that after 3/4 of a season of use, it would need something. Blew out the filter and greased everything so I think I'm all set.


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## zeus201

Just in case anyone wanted join the Baroness family or add to your existing fleet.

As of today, they are down to two mowers.

https://www.turfnet.com/classifieds/item/36245-2008-baroness-greens-mower/


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## ISU

Fellas, in need of some pointers here...I recently changed the carb on the baroness (would bug down and not stay running after seating over winter). Well, I appear to be running into another issue...the mower bugs down after reel is engaged so less than a minute when going to mow it bugs down. After carb replacement it starts in half pull and idles good, what could be the issue?


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## Mightyquinn

How much are you trying to cut off at one time and is this at idle?


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## ISU

Mightyquinn said:


> How much are you trying to cut off at one time and is this at idle?


Not cutting much off, grass just staring to grow in my area so just cutting off the tips. It idles fine and runs good...I take it to the yard back, take the wheels off, set the reel to engage and begin to mow but less than minute later it dies. It starts right up in half pull. It's like it doesn't have power once I engage the reel to mow?


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## TulsaFan

What does it do if you leave the transport wheels on and tilt it back where the front roller is off the ground...and let it travel down the street or driveway with the reel spinning?


----------



## ISU

I actually just did that little test in the garage (been raining all day)...i can hear the reel turning and noticed it spinning (slow as was feathering the clutch enough to see reel spin a little without taking off on me).

Funny thing I noticed and hoping this is the issue...when I went to do the test and start it I noticed I had the fuel shutoff in the open position vs off when mower is not in used so I am staring to wonder if this was user error all along &#128580;&#129310;(ex: Placing the fuel shutoff in the "off" setting when thinking was in the "open"position). If I'm right this would explain why unit would die shortly after starting to mow when I engage the reel, enough gas getting to the garb to run for minute or so without further fuel going thru&#128518;.

I will have to test this theory when we get a break from the rain during the week. Hopefully its a simple rookie mistake, I'll follow up this week with results.


----------



## zeus201

Hopefully it's just that!


----------



## ISU

Happy to report my theory was spot on...user error! We are back in business! :lol: :thumbup:


----------



## TulsaFan

ISU said:


> Happy to report my theory was spot on...user error! We are back in business! :lol: :thumbup:


Congrats on the easy fix! :thumbup:

Wait until you accidentally set the parking brake when avoiding an object and can't figure out why the mower won't move. :lol:


----------



## zeus201

ISU said:


> Happy to report my theory was spot on...user error! We are back in business! :lol: :thumbup:


Nice and turf is looking good.

My older NoMix is ready for a mow while my Reno monostand is slowly coming outta of hibernation.


----------



## ISU

@TulsaFan - it's like learning how to use the mower all over again😂.

@zeus201 - thank you sir, I am pleased with the color it held after winter. Take out the baroness and give it a fresh cut! my front yard could have waited another week probably before cutting but I just couldn't resist.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

I took off the safety lever and it's a much more pleasant mow now. The 4 plastic clips were annoying to remove. After the cover is removed, I used a jeweler flat head to pry off the lock washer and everything else slipped right off. My safety lever was pretty sticky to begin with and sometimes never released after pushing down so I'm glad I took it off.


----------



## ISU

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> I took off the safety lever and it's a much more pleasant mow now. The 4 plastic clips were annoying to remove. After the cover is removed, I used a jeweler flat head to pry off the lock washer and everything else slipped right off. My safety lever was pretty sticky to begin with and sometimes never released after pushing down so I'm glad I took it off.


I need to do this, doesn't bother me but at times I do find myself wondering if I should take it off. Question: how do you take off the on/off switch to remove the cover? Just give it a good pull and comes off?


----------



## TulsaFan

ISU said:


> DuncanMcDonuts said:
> 
> 
> 
> I took off the safety lever and it's a much more pleasant mow now. The 4 plastic clips were annoying to remove. After the cover is removed, I used a jeweler flat head to pry off the lock washer and everything else slipped right off. My safety lever was pretty sticky to begin with and sometimes never released after pushing down so I'm glad I took it off.
> 
> 
> 
> I need to do this, doesn't bother me but at times I do find myself wondering if I should take it off. Question: how do you take off the on/off switch to remove the cover? Just give it a good pull and comes off?
Click to expand...

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=182302#p182302


----------



## Deeznutz357

Hi I am new to the forum, as well as, the Baroness brand. I have been using a McLane 7 blade for the last 5 years on my lawn and wanted to upgrade to a greens mower. I worked on golf courses growing up in Tulsa, OK. And have used Toro, John Deere, and Jacobsen walk mowers before, but the Baroness is a little different. I just purchased a LM56GA for 400 dollars this weekend. Starts and runs fantastic. I really could not find any sources of information for maintenance as well as buy grooming add ons. Was looking for a how to videos but other than the videos released by Baroness I could not find anything. Is there anything in particular I need to keep in mind about this mower. Thanks in advance.


----------



## TulsaFan

Deeznutz357 said:


> Hi I am new to the forum, as well as, the Baroness brand. I have been using a McLane 7 blade for the last 5 years on my lawn and wanted to upgrade to a greens mower. I worked on golf courses growing up in Tulsa, OK. And have used Toro, John Deere, and Jacobsen walk mowers before, but the Baroness is a little different. I just purchased a LM56GA for 400 dollars this weekend. Starts and runs fantastic. I really could not find any sources of information for maintenance as well as buy grooming add ons. Was looking for a how to videos but other than the videos released by Baroness I could not find anything. Is there anything in particular I need to keep in mind about this mower. Thanks in advance.


Welcome to the Baroness family...and congrats on your purchase and the price you paid! :thumbup:

Greasing the zerks on your unit is essentially all the maintenance involved for your gear driven mower. There are no chains or belts to tighten or replace. I would replace the hour meter if it is dead. Also, you will probably want to remove the safety to make it a better mowing experience.

Baroness has had a hard time making any traction in the US turf market due to being a Japanese import and the big 3 (Toro, JD, & Jacobson) already having established relationships. Their biggest mistake was that they let golf cart dealers make up most of their initial dealer network. So, when a problem arose, there were no technicians who could fix the units or grind the reels. So, many of the original dealers have closed.

Parts can be ordered from the US headquarters in Richmond, CA. You have to email them.

This thread has a lot of info that you can use going forward.

Good Luck!


----------



## ISU

Deeznutz357 said:


> Hi I am new to the forum, as well as, the Baroness brand. I have been using a McLane 7 blade for the last 5 years on my lawn and wanted to upgrade to a greens mower. I worked on golf courses growing up in Tulsa, OK. And have used Toro, John Deere, and Jacobsen walk mowers before, but the Baroness is a little different. I just purchased a LM56GA for 400 dollars this weekend. Starts and runs fantastic. I really could not find any sources of information for maintenance as well as buy grooming add ons. Was looking for a how to videos but other than the videos released by Baroness I could not find anything. Is there anything in particular I need to keep in mind about this mower. Thanks in advance.


Welcome to the lazy family of greensmowers! Let us know your thoughts once you take it out for a mow.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Ok, to all you smarter than me Baroness guys. I just backlapped and tried to set my reel to bedknife contact but can't seem to get it right. Could you explain to me what each of these nuts do to the adjustment so I can maybe figure it all out. For example I turned the number one nut counter clockwise to increase contact but on my right side, it became too loose to keep turning. What am I doing wrong?


----------



## TulsaFan

I only use #1 to adjust reel to bedknife. Never touched #2 or #3.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

TulsaFan said:


> I only use #1 to adjust reel to bedknife. Never touched #2 or #3.


i did too but then i read the manual and it confused me. cause it says to adjust #3...so now im like hmmm...did I mess up? Here's the manual info


----------



## Mightyquinn

All I use is #1 also.

You may want to try backing the reel all the way off and then slowly bring it down on each side so that there is a very slight contact and then slowly work from there. I have noticed that if you crank one side down too much it will effect the other side to some degree so you want to bring it down as evenly as possible.

I will also give you a heads up that if you just got done scalping the yard and you went pretty low, you may have dulled the bedknife as it seems to dull a little faster than the reel does when dealing with dirt and sand. You will either need to replace the bedknife or "face" the bedknife in order to get it to cut good again. If it does turn out to be this, then I would just get a new bedknife and keep the one you have to swap out for when you have to scalp or do some dirty work with and quality of cut isn't an issue. Also replace those bedknife screws with Torx head screws, you will thank me later.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Has anyone ordered from Bobby at the US HQ dealer? I e-mailed him two weeks ago to try to source missing parts for my groomer. He replied asking for my location that I replied back to, which I assume is to find a regional dealer to work with but I don't have one. Since then, I haven't heard anything even after sending a follow-up e-mail a week after. Just wondering if he's not the best at e-mail communication.

Am I able to order from dealers that don't service my area?


----------



## andynese

@DuncanMcDonuts Hey bud, I usually just order directly from Baroness US HQ, they're fast and knowledgable. I always done business with Alex. Haven't had any experience from other distributors. Hope this helps!

Baroness USA HQ
1001 Canal Blvd Unit E, Richmond, CA 94804, USA
Contact Name: Bob Yokoi
Phone: 510-215-2111
Email: [email protected]
Site: baroness.us
Regions: USA


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Thanks, I'll try giving them a call instead of e-mail. I thought e-mail would be better since I could attach photos.


----------



## TulsaFan

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> Has anyone ordered from Bobby at the US HQ dealer? I e-mailed him two weeks ago to try to source missing parts for my groomer. He replied asking for my location that I replied back to, which I assume is to find a regional dealer to work with but I don't have one. Since then, I haven't heard anything even after sending a follow-up e-mail a week after. Just wondering if he's not the best at e-mail communication.
> 
> Am I able to order from dealers that don't service my area?


The preferred way to place a parts order is to email: [email protected]

Make sure to have the CODE NO. & PART NAME from the parts catalog.

I would do your homework and figure out what parts you need. Pictures are great, but it is going to cause them more work and take longer for them to get back to you.

FYI...Bobby is the head guy at Baroness US. Alex is his son and is more than likely who you will work with to solve your problem. Like @andynese stated...Alex has been fantastic to help me with anything I have needed. In fact, he emailed me twice yesterday (Saturday). I do know that they are currently working from home due to Covid 19.

Good luck! :thumbup:


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Thanks, guys! I'll forward my e-mails to that one and hopefully contact Andy.

I have an idea of what parts I need but I wanted to confirm with them so I can get it all in one order. I also wanted to ask about replacing my axles with the stubby ones. I doubt I would ever use the transport wheels again, but I don't want to commit to sawing off the axles. Has anyone replaced their unit with the stubby axles?

What I'm missing from my groomer are the height adjusters. I believe it's parts 49-59 from the parts catalog, a pair of them.

















This is my unit and the parts I have.

























Does that sound about right to those who have their groomer attached?


----------



## Mightyquinn

I would order just #19 as it looks like it comes with everything you need plus you will have a few extra parts just in case.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

@Mightyquinn Good suggestion. I'll ask about that.


----------



## Christech11

I wanted to give an update on my post from earlier this spring. I know several of you reached out and gave me some advice to get my mowers up and running. I really appreciate everyone's help and the team at Baroness was very helpful as well. It turns out that the culprit was a bum clutch cable and spring assembly that needed to be replaced.

Quick question. What's the clear plastic port cover over the gears on the side? What's the purpose?


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Christech11 said:


> Quick question. What's the clear plastic port cover over the gears on the side? What's the purpose?


good question..ive asked myself the same thing


----------



## Mightyquinn

I asked the local Baroness dealer and he told me it's an observation window to look for moisture in gear case.

I've had both of mine break off, so be careful. I put some Gorilla tape over the holes to keep dirt and moisture out until the next time I order some parts. He also said that it's a good practice to pull that gear cover off every couple years and clean all the old grease out. If you are careful you can reuse the gasket.


----------



## ISU

Christech11 said:


> I wanted to give an update on my post from earlier this spring. I know several of you reached out and gave me some advice to get my mowers up and running. I really appreciate everyone's help and the team at Baroness was very helpful as well. It turns out that the culprit was a bum clutch cable and spring assembly that needed to be replaced.
> 
> Glad to hear it was a simple fix!


----------



## Deeznutz357

So, I needed an air filter, my used baroness LM56GA did not have one, of course I rigged another filter to fit before I could get one in, but went looking and came across the K&N washable/Reusable Filter, it's a bit costly at 47.99, but I found a coupon code for 20% percent to make my self feel better about my purchase. Well, if anyone is as ridiculous as I am heres a link. For the Honda GX120 
20% Coupon Code: EU99KFYJ
https://www.knfilters.com/e-4515-special-order-repl-indstrl-fltr


----------



## Christech11

Deeznutz357 said:


> So, I needed an air filter, my used baroness LM56GA did not have one, of course I rigged another filter to fit before I could get one in, but went looking and came across the K&N washable/Reusable Filter, it's a bit costly at 47.99, but I found a coupon code for 20% percent to make my self feel better about my purchase. Well, if anyone is as ridiculous as I am heres a link. For the Honda GX120
> 20% Coupon Code: EU99KFYJ
> https://www.knfilters.com/e-4515-special-order-repl-indstrl-fltr


I followed your lead as I needed a new one as well. Thanks for doing all the hard work!


----------



## Christech11

So the last few weeks of having a fully functional Baroness have been great. I find a need to start it up about every other day and just see how much my lawn has grown. I upgraded from a True Cut and couldn't be happier with the end result.





2 Questions:

1. I struggle with remembering how to adjusting the HOC with all the knobs and find my self coming back to the forum and figure it out. Any quick way to remember how to do this?

2. I always scalped with the TC as the GX160 had plenty of power to knock it down to whatever height I needed. I've noticed that when trying to knock down a higher spot in a neighbors yard that the Baroness bogs down and comes to a stop when faced with anything over 1/4 or 1/2" cut off. How do y'all scalp your yard using the Baroness? Tons of passes or once again, am I missing something?


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Christech11 said:


> So the last few weeks of having a fully functional Baroness have been great. I find a need to start it up about every other day and just see how much my lawn has grown. I upgraded from a True Cut and couldn't be happier with the end result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 Questions:
> 
> 1. I struggle with remembering how to adjusting the HOC with all the knobs and find my self coming back to the forum and figure it out. Any quick way to remember how to do this?
> 
> 2. I always scalped with the TC as the GX160 had plenty of power to knock it down to whatever height I needed. I've noticed that when trying to knock down a higher spot in a neighbors yard that the Baroness bogs down and comes to a stop when faced with anything over 1/4 or 1/2" cut off. How do y'all scalp your yard using the Baroness? Tons of passes or once again, am I missing something?


You will get used to it quick. For me, I basically look at tightening (clockwise) is RAISING HoC. Loosening (counter) is Dropping the HoC.

And to remember which knobs, it's the ones WITHOUT the spring or cap Nut.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Christech11 said:


> So the last few weeks of having a fully functional Baroness have been great. I find a need to start it up about every other day and just see how much my lawn has grown. I upgraded from a True Cut and couldn't be happier with the end result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 Questions:
> 
> 1. I struggle with remembering how to adjusting the HOC with all the knobs and find my self coming back to the forum and figure it out. Any quick way to remember how to do this?
> 
> 2. I always scalped with the TC as the GX160 had plenty of power to knock it down to whatever height I needed. I've noticed that when trying to knock down a higher spot in a neighbors yard that the Baroness bogs down and comes to a stop when faced with anything over 1/4 or 1/2" cut off. How do y'all scalp your yard using the Baroness? Tons of passes or once again, am I missing something?


You will get used to it quick.

For me, I basically look at TIGHT CUT (tightening or clockwise) is Lowering the HoC. LOOSE CUT (Loosening or counter-clockwise) is Raising the HoC.

And to remember which knobs, it's the ones WITHOUT the spring or cap Nut.


----------



## TulsaFan

Christech11 said:


> So the last few weeks of having a fully functional Baroness have been great. I find a need to start it up about every other day and just see how much my lawn has grown. I upgraded from a True Cut and couldn't be happier with the end result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 Questions:
> 
> 1. I struggle with remembering how to adjusting the HOC with all the knobs and find my self coming back to the forum and figure it out. Any quick way to remember how to do this?
> 
> 2. I always scalped with the TC as the GX160 had plenty of power to knock it down to whatever height I needed. I've noticed that when trying to knock down a higher spot in a neighbors yard that the Baroness bogs down and comes to a stop when faced with anything over 1/4 or 1/2" cut off. How do y'all scalp your yard using the Baroness? Tons of passes or once again, am I missing something?


Time to update your mower on your profile!

Also, I would invest in some T-nex to keep the wife happy! PGR is a marriage saver!


----------



## DFW_Zoysia

If anyone knows of a Baroness for sale in great condition that is not overpriced please let me know!


----------



## Mightyquinn

For question #2-- Yes, you will need to make multiple passes in order to scalp the lawn in the Spring. I have noticed that once you get around .5" you will need to start taking it down in increments of .1" until you reach your desired height. Also take into consideration of going in different directions at the same HOC as you will be amazed at how much you will remove the second time around. One more caveat, you will probably want to either have a back up bedknife or an old used one on hand to do your scalping with as the lower you go the more sand and dirt you will come into contact with which in turn may end up dulling your bedknife, so you can either reface the bedknife or use and old one that you don't care about dulling. It also helps to lessen your reel to bedknife contact while scalping as it will lessen the times that the mower will "jam" while scalping.


----------



## Christech11

TulsaFan said:


> Christech11 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So the last few weeks of having a fully functional Baroness have been great. I find a need to start it up about every other day and just see how much my lawn has grown. I upgraded from a True Cut and couldn't be happier with the end result.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2 Questions:
> 
> 1. I struggle with remembering how to adjusting the HOC with all the knobs and find my self coming back to the forum and figure it out. Any quick way to remember how to do this?
> 
> 2. I always scalped with the TC as the GX160 had plenty of power to knock it down to whatever height I needed. I've noticed that when trying to knock down a higher spot in a neighbors yard that the Baroness bogs down and comes to a stop when faced with anything over 1/4 or 1/2" cut off. How do y'all scalp your yard using the Baroness? Tons of passes or once again, am I missing something?
> 
> 
> 
> Time to update your mower on your profile!
> 
> Also, I would invest in some T-nex to keep the wife happy! PGR is a marriage saver!
Click to expand...

I have the PGR and I'll put It out in about 3 or 4 weeks. It was great last year.

Profile is updated, thanks for the heads up!


----------



## TulsaFan

Since this has happened to two different carbs, I am going to assume that it has nothing to due with the carbs.

So, let me throw out some crazy for you...Remove the gas cap to see if that fixes the problem. If the gas cap is not venting correctly the unit could be vapor locking and be causing your problem.


----------



## kludge

Happy to be joining the Baroness family with my new LM66. I've never used a powered mower before, let alone a reel mower so this will be a learning experience. I was told it's been sitting for a while so I'll need to give it a bath and probably change the oil and drain the old gas. Checked the 7-blade reel though and it cuts like a dream.



I did notice in reviewing pictures from other owners that it mostly came with a Honda engine. For whatever reason, mine is a Subaru.



I did have one question for the group. I'm not familiar with the controls on the handle and was hoping someone could shed some light on what they are and the proper usage since it differs from what's in the manual.



I think #1 is the safety and I'll probably get around to removing it once I'm comfortable using the mower. #2 which is the T-bar I have no clue what that does. I'm guessing that's the throttle(?) but in the manual the throttle is a fixed lever. Can someone point me to a video or some type of document which explains how this is used? #3 I understand is the clutch. I saw a video of someone using the LM66 and they had to pull in both #2 and #3 when mowing. Is that how it works?

Sorry for the newbie questions, I promise to make it up to the community by posting some Youtube how-to videos for the next generation of Baroness owners!


----------



## TulsaFan

kludge said:


> Happy to be joining the Baroness family with my new LM66. I've never used a powered mower before, let alone a reel mower so this will be a learning experience. I was told it's been sitting for a while so I'll need to give it a bath and probably change the oil and drain the old gas. Checked the 7-blade reel though and it cuts like a dream.
> 
> I did notice in reviewing pictures from other owners that it mostly came with a Honda engine. For whatever reason, mine is a Subaru.
> 
> I did have one question for the group. I'm not familiar with the controls on the handle and was hoping someone could shed some light on what they are and the proper usage since it differs from what's in the manual.
> 
> I think #1 is the safety and I'll probably get around to removing it once I'm comfortable using the mower. #2 which is the T-bar I have no clue what that does. I'm guessing that's the throttle(?) but in the manual the throttle is a fixed lever. Can someone point me to a video or some type of document which explains how this is used? #3 I understand is the clutch. I saw a video of someone using the LM66 and they had to pull in both #2 and #3 when mowing. Is that how it works?
> 
> Sorry for the newbie questions, I promise to make it up to the community by posting some Youtube how-to videos for the next generation of Baroness owners!


Remove then the 10mm bolt holding the black cover in place. Under it, you will find the serial plate which will give you the year and model. Subaru engines were placed on newer models. You probably have a LM66TB or LM66TC?

You have the levers correctly assessed. If your carb is clean, you can engage the clutch without needing to squeeze the throttle. You might need to give it throttle if the engine hasasn't warmed up. I usually run mine without using much throttle.



https://baroness.us/pdfs/


----------



## kludge

Thanks for confirming, @TulsaFan!

Here's a picture of the plate, I'm assuming this one was manufactured in March 2011?


----------



## zeus201

That thing looks mint!

If you don't mind telling, how much was the mower?


----------



## Backyard Soldier

kludge said:


> Thanks for confirming, @TulsaFan!
> 
> Here's a picture of the plate, I'm assuming this one was manufactured in March 2011?


Welcome to the Fams!! Did you get from a dealer, locally?


----------



## ISU

Congrats on the unit! Do you Know how many hours it has? Looks brand new.

On a side note: I learned the other day while mowing how tough the metal on these reels are when a foreign metal object(perhaps was hard aluminum) landed on my yard and I hear a loud ding noise....My first thoughts were "there goes $800 on a new reel". After a brief panic moment I prepared my self to see a blended reel or broken bed knife and nothing, not even a scratch as far as I can tell!


----------



## bigmks

ISU said:


> Congrats on the unit! Do you Know how many hours it has? Looks brand new.
> 
> On a side note: I learned the other day while mowing how tough the metal on these reels are when a foreign metal object(perhaps was hard aluminum) landed on my yard and I hear a loud ding noise....My first thoughts were "there goes $800 on a new reel". After a brief panic moment I prepared my self to see a blended reel or broken bed knife and nothing, not even a scratch as far as I can tell!


Whew dodge an expensive fix!


----------



## kludge

Hey folks, apologies for the late reply. I bought it off Facebook Marketplace from an older gentleman who could no longer use it due to surgery. I paid $800 for it and drove roughly two hours each way to pick it up. It does look to be in great condition, but upon testing it out at home I realized there was a bad fuel leak at the carburetor. Pretty frustrating since I was really looking forward to getting a first mow in right away. I ordered a replacement which should be arriving tomorrow, and I'm hoping that's the only broken part on this mower. It seems to have been well cared for, and as I mentioned before it sat for well over a year without use so I guess this is to be expected.

Checked HOC last night and it's just a hair over 1 inch. The dethacher is about 1 and 1/16 of an inch. I'm assuming that's correct.


----------



## bigmks

What a deal!!!!


----------



## kludge

Happy to report that swapping in a new carburetor resolved the issue and she's purring like a kitten. I was actually surprised one pull was all it took to get the engine started each and every time. Got a first mow in just to get used to the controls and the weight of this beast so I wasn't even attempting stripes or anything fancy, but it's definitely going to take some practice. I wish I had other powered mowers to compare this Baroness to, but now I understand why people say it's like a Lexus. I mean it just floats and mows so effortlessly.



And of course, the first casualty from the transport axle.  Would love to know if it can be easily removed. I looked through the service manual and believe it's a single shaft through the drums.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

@kludge My posts, fence pickets, and parts of foundation have plenty of dings from the transport axles. I studied the parts manual to try and remove them. I was able to take off the wheel fitting set, but the axle itself requires removing the outer casing. I haven't had the time or guts to open it up, but let me know if its feasible. Most homeowners saw off the axles. I think Toros are easily removable.


----------



## bigmks

My vinyl siding on my house met the baroness. Hopefully the wife doesnt find out. I'm not sure how to remove the axles as well.


----------



## Mightyquinn

The axle shaft cannot be removed but I think they offer an option to replace the axle shaft with a shorter one.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

@Mightyquinn I asked Alex Yokoi at the main USA dealer about the stubby axles, and he recommended I just cut off the existing ones. Replacing the axle itself looks like it would be very labor intensive. I thought the shaft would be easier to replace, but after looking back to learnt's pictures here, the shaft goes much deeper into the interior and supports the gears.


----------



## zeus201

bigmks said:


> My vinyl siding on my house met the baroness. Hopefully the wife doesnt find out. I'm not sure how to remove the axles as well.


My garden boxes and neighbors metal fence poles have gotten to know each quite well. Cutting off the axles is the easiest method. The other Baroness I have had its axles cut off, but I just don't have the heart to do it to my main one.


----------



## Mightyquinn

It's scarier than it looks @DuncanMcDonuts when removing the covers and all the gears but the shaft goes all the way through so it's ONE solid piece of steel.


----------



## Tmank87

@Mightyquinn @dfw_pilot @TulsaFan

Any of you guys ever replaced the bed knife on the LM66? Curious if there were different bed knife combinations (green vs. fairway, for example). Who did you buy from, cost, install thoughts/feedback etc.

May have the reel ground/sharpened next week and was thinking about buying another bed knife just in case.

Thanks!


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Tmank87 said:


> @Mightyquinn @dfw_pilot @TulsaFan
> 
> Any of you guys ever replaced the bed knife on the LM66? Curious if there were different bed knife combinations (green vs. fairway, for example). Who did you buy from, cost, install thoughts/feedback etc.
> 
> May have the reel ground/sharpened next week and was thinking about buying another bed knife just in case.
> 
> Thanks!


I just recently replaced mine but I used the same version. I ordered mine from eastern turf. They sent it over took only two days to get here in SC. via UPS I believe. I followed @Mightyquinn advise and kept my old one so I can use for grunt work like scalping. Or as a backup in a pinch if something happens to the new one.

The old one was a byotch to get off. I ended up buying an impact screw driver with a heavy rip. Worked like a charm then. There are some Torx screws I used instead of the OEM ones. Search this thread on them. I forget the link. New Bedknife was $130 I think. Can't remember honestly.


----------



## Tmank87

Thanks man. Appreciate it. I'm right down the road from those guys in Charlotte. Was thinking of taking it with me in the event the knife can't be sharpened and needs replaced. 2 day turn is encouraging.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Tmank87 said:


> Thanks man. Appreciate it. I'm right down the road from those guys in Charlotte. Was thinking of taking it with me in the event the knife can't be sharpened and needs replaced. 2 day turn is encouraging.


Here are the Torx screws. https://www.mcmaster.com/94414a741

Here is what worked like a charm to get the old screws off.

TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_AXW4mQJsQTSQy


----------



## Tmank87

Backyard Soldier said:


> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man. Appreciate it. I'm right down the road from those guys in Charlotte. Was thinking of taking it with me in the event the knife can't be sharpened and needs replaced. 2 day turn is encouraging.
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the Torx screws. https://www.mcmaster.com/94414a741
> 
> Here is what worked like a charm to get the old screws off.
> 
> TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_AXW4mQJsQTSQy
Click to expand...

You're a gentleman, thank you.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Tmank87 said:


> @Mightyquinn @dfw_pilot @TulsaFan
> 
> Any of you guys ever replaced the bed knife on the LM66? Curious if there were different bed knife combinations (green vs. fairway, for example). Who did you buy from, cost, install thoughts/feedback etc.
> 
> May have the reel ground/sharpened next week and was thinking about buying another bed knife just in case.
> 
> Thanks!


Why are you getting it sharpened/ground for?

You will also want to get a torque wrench if you plan on changing the bedknife out but definitely get those torx screws as it makes getting them out so much easier next time :thumbup:


----------



## bigmks

What's everyone using to check the HOC on the baroness. I'm using my DIY gauge but I'm running out of travel on the dead stop adjustment. I'm basically bottoming out on the dead stop and I'm not touching the bar on my gauge. I'd hate to buy the accu gauge because of the price lol.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

bigmks said:


> What's everyone using to check the HOC on the baroness. I'm using my DIY gauge but I'm running out of travel on the dead stop adjustment. I'm basically bottoming out on the dead stop and I'm not touching the bar on my gauge. I'd hate to buy the accu gauge because of the price lol.


I went cried once got the accu gage.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I too have the Accu-Gauge and love it. As for your situation, why not exchange the bolt in there for a longer one?

What is your current HOC? The Baroness maxes out at a little over an inch.


----------



## bigmks

I'm trying to set it @ .75 which bolt are you referring to?


----------



## Mightyquinn

You said you are bottoming out on the dead stop on the bolt on your home made gauge so I assumed you were running out of threads to adjust it. If you put a longer bolt in there you can adjust it more. Maybe I am misunderstanding?


----------



## bigmks

No sorry. I can't adjust the the HOC adjustment screw anymore. I'm basically at the end of the travel and the front roller is still not touching my DIY bar. I'm not sure what the issue is. I have the tires on etc.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Oh, ok. I see what the issue is. Can you post a pic of your HOC adjusters?


----------



## bigmks




----------



## Tmank87

Mightyquinn said:


> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Mightyquinn @dfw_pilot @TulsaFan
> 
> Any of you guys ever replaced the bed knife on the LM66? Curious if there were different bed knife combinations (green vs. fairway, for example). Who did you buy from, cost, install thoughts/feedback etc.
> 
> May have the reel ground/sharpened next week and was thinking about buying another bed knife just in case.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Why are you getting it sharpened/ground for?
> 
> You will also want to get a torque wrench if you plan on changing the bedknife out but definitely get those torx screws as it makes getting them out so much easier next time :thumbup:
Click to expand...

I just sort of thought maybe it was 'time' to get sharpened and found someone locally to do it; sort of a 'strike while the iron was hot' sort of deal. Perhaps I shouldn't?

As to the reel to bedknife adjustment, I just adjusted mine using the "1" nut that others commented about above. I noticed in order to get the reel cutting paper on the non leading edge, it literally took an adjustment of like 1/32 or less of a turn of the nut. I felt like I barely turned it and voila, cutting paper again. Normal?

Also, I haven't tried my hand at backlapping, any of you experts have a video of doing it on our machines? I'd love to watch it if so.


----------



## padgetttrey

So, this is my first post to TLF and I wanted to share my recent acquisition. Reel and bed knife were outstanding. In fact, the bed knife still has the corrosion preventive coating. The all thread for the front roller adjustment was bent. Ordered a new part on Saturday. Came with the grooved front roller, groomer, working LED light, transport casters, and grass catcher. I serviced her as I could over the last few days, including a mild backlapping, oil change, and a dose of urea grease. Mowed for the first time with her since my lawn leveling project on June 2nd. For $300, I couldn't pass the offer for a mower that I could see and run before purchase. 
So far, so good. (The transport wheels were put on for the trip back to the garage).


----------



## Tmank87

padgetttrey said:


> So, this is my first post to TLF and I wanted to share my recent acquisition. Reel and bed knife were outstanding. In fact, the bed knife still has the corrosion preventive coating. The all thread for the front roller adjustment was bent. Ordered a new part on Saturday. Came with the grooved front roller, groomer, working LED light, transport casters, and grass catcher. I serviced her as I could over the last few days, including a mild backlapping, oil change, and a dose of urea grease. Mowed for the first time with her since my lawn leveling project on June 2nd. For $300, I couldn't pass the offer for a mower that I could see and run before purchase.
> So far, so good. (The transport wheels were put on for the trip back to the garage).


Man, where and how did you snag that for $300?


----------



## padgetttrey

Tmank87 said:


> padgetttrey said:
> 
> 
> 
> So, this is my first post to TLF and I wanted to share my recent acquisition. Reel and bed knife were outstanding. In fact, the bed knife still has the corrosion preventive coating. The all thread for the front roller adjustment was bent. Ordered a new part on Saturday. Came with the grooved front roller, groomer, working LED light, transport casters, and grass catcher. I serviced her as I could over the last few days, including a mild backlapping, oil change, and a dose of urea grease. Mowed for the first time with her since my lawn leveling project on June 2nd. For $300, I couldn't pass the offer for a mower that I could see and run before purchase.
> So far, so good. (The transport wheels were put on for the trip back to the garage).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man, where and how did you snag that for $300?
Click to expand...




Tmank87 said:


> padgetttrey said:
> 
> 
> 
> So, this is my first post to TLF and I wanted to share my recent acquisition. Reel and bed knife were outstanding. In fact, the bed knife still has the corrosion preventive coating. The all thread for the front roller adjustment was bent. Ordered a new part on Saturday. Came with the grooved front roller, groomer, working LED light, transport casters, and grass catcher. I serviced her as I could over the last few days, including a mild backlapping, oil change, and a dose of urea grease. Mowed for the first time with her since my lawn leveling project on June 2nd. For $300, I couldn't pass the offer for a mower that I could see and run before purchase.
> So far, so good. (The transport wheels were put on for the trip back to the garage).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man, where and how did you snag that for $300?
Click to expand...

In a way, it was purely dumb luck. I had spoken to a friend who does turfgrass management for golf courses and he told me about this one having been basically an "extra" for one of the courses. I asked him about stepping up my game a bit after my leveling project and he told me, "I'll ask what they want for it". Two days later, he brought it by and said, let's look it over and give a test run. We did. I handed him the $300 and that was that. It came from one of the courses between Greenville and Clemson, SC. I'm not sure which one though.


----------



## Tmank87

Awesome man. You'll love it.


----------



## zeus201

Nice pickup!

.... I bought another Baroness for $400 and it's in rough shape and will be my winter project.


----------



## SC Grass Loon

padgetttrey said:


> So, this is my first post to TLF and I wanted to share my recent acquisition. Reel and bed knife were outstanding. In fact, the bed knife still has the corrosion preventive coating. The all thread for the front roller adjustment was bent. Ordered a new part on Saturday. Came with the grooved front roller, groomer, working LED light, transport casters, and grass catcher. I serviced her as I could over the last few days, including a mild backlapping, oil change, and a dose of urea grease. Mowed for the first time with her since my lawn leveling project on June 2nd. For $300, I couldn't pass the offer for a mower that I could see and run before purchase.
> So far, so good. (The transport wheels were put on for the trip back to the garage).


Great price!


----------



## kludge

I've been scratching my head for a while trying to figure out why my Baroness just didn't feel like it had enough power. Even mowing my flat backyard, I'd need to apply throttle or the engine would stall. I thought with a new carb, spark plug, and air filter it'd perform better but nope. Then re-reading all 27 pages of this thread, I noticed lots of folks talking about the safety lock and it dawned on me that I've oddly always been able to engage the clutch without needed to unlock the safety. Now this was at 1AM, but I ran down to my garage and popped the handlebar cover and saw this wedged in the safety lock.



:lol: :lol: :lol:

I wish I took a picture while this was still wedged in there, but in the heat of the moment I just removed the entire safety assembly. Happy to say that it's now operating like I'd thought it should.


----------



## kludge

I've got a bit of a conundrum and hoping for some guidance from the group. I noticed my bedknife was slightly dented the day I got the mower and didn't think too much of it, but the quality of cut on that dented side was annoying me so I ended up calling Alex at Baroness to order a new one. Now, the price he quoted was $103 but then he noticed I live in NC and referred me to Eastern Turf. When I called them to place my order, they told me the bedknife was $242 before tax and shipping! Now I understand there's naturally going to be some markup and such, but this seems a bit excessive. I didn't mention the price Alex quoted me... should I have?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Are you sure it was for the exact same bedknife? What part # did you give them? I think the stock 1.5mm bedknife from them is usually around $100 and they usually have them in stock. Let me know, worst case, I will go in there and buy one and mail it to you.

**** I just saw that you have a LM66 so that may raise the price a little but that is still way higher than it should be. Who did you speak with? Did they have it in stock? Just trying to figure it all out. ******


----------



## kludge

Mightyquinn said:


> Are you sure it was for the exact same bedknife? What part # did you give them? I think the stock 1.5mm bedknife from them is usually around $100 and they usually have them in stock. Let me know, worst case, I will go in there and buy one and mail it to you.
> 
> **** I just saw that you have a LM66 so that may raise the price a little but that is still way higher than it should be. Who did you speak with? Did they have it in stock? Just trying to figure it all out. ******


Hi Mightyquinn - Alex gave me this info, "The 3mm bedknife, K2510000150, is $102.78, the 5mm bedknife, K2510000170, is $118.75." Spoke with Jeff Day at ETE, and no they didn't have them in stock so he'd need to order from Baroness. I'm wondering if maybe he doesn't have the correct pricing and is just quoting me for some other part? I'm not sure how the dealer system works so I didn't want to be too confrontational with ETE since I'm assuming I may need other parts in the future and didn't want to mess up a relationship.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Jeff is a good guy, he may have read something wrong on the computer. I'm sure if you call him and tell him what you told us here, he will figure it out for you. Just tell him you spoke with Alex and he referred you to him and these are the prices I was quoted...…….


----------



## kludge

Thanks Mightyquinn! I actually just spoke with Alex and he mentioned the price he provided was MSRP, but of course dealers will charge what they charge. He said he'd reach out to Jeff to help clear up any confusion regarding the item. Regarding Jeff, I agree. We had a great conversation about mowing our lawns in this heat wave, and I definitely want to work with him again in the future. Thumbs up to Alex though for stepping up and helping out; totally didn't expect him to do that for a lowly 2nd hand owner but it speaks volumes about the company.


----------



## TulsaFan

kludge said:


> Thanks Mightyquinn! I actually just spoke with Alex and he mentioned the price he provided was MSRP, but of course dealers will charge what they charge. He said he'd reach out to Jeff to help clear up any confusion regarding the item. Regarding Jeff, I agree. We had a great conversation about mowing our lawns in this heat wave, and I definitely want to work with him again in the future. Thumbs up to Alex though for stepping up and helping out; totally didn't expect him to do that for a lowly 2nd hand owner but it speaks volumes about the company.


Worst case scenario, I will buy it for you and personally ship it to NC. Of course, you would be paying for shipping.

:tease:


----------



## kludge

:lol: Thanks guys! Much appreciated!


----------



## 1FASTSS

Hi, I'm about to purchase a Baroness LM56 and wanted to see how everyone like? Are they fairly maintance free for the most part? What type of issues can be expected if you mow with them 2-3 times a week? I really like the gear drive system as I have an Allett mower now and am replacing pullies and belts from mowing my Celebration 2-3 times a week. 

Thanks,
Chris


----------



## bigmks

Well I'm sure you wont have to worry about replacing belts ever on a Baroness. Besides from a occasional back lapping and greasing the zerks fitting at the recommend interval your set. This machine is some what maintenance free!


----------



## 1FASTSS

bigmks said:


> Well I'm sure you wont have to worry about replacing belts ever on a Baroness. Besides from a occasional back lapping and greasing the zerks fitting at the recommend interval your set. This machine is some what maintenance free!


Thanks! That's what I am hoping because my race car doesn't break down as often as my Allett does. :lol:


----------



## Mightyquinn

You should be fine once you familiarize yourself with the mower. Depending on what condition the mower is in that you are buying there should be very minimal maintenance that you will need to do besides greasing the zerks every 10 hours and backlapping/adjusting reel to bedknife every few months like others have said.


----------



## TulsaFan

1FASTSS said:


> Hi, I'm about to purchase a Baroness LM56 and wanted to see how everyone like? Are they fairly maintance free for the most part? What type of issues can be expected if you mow with them 2-3 times a week? I really like the gear drive system as I have an Allett mower now and am replacing pullies and belts from mowing my Celebration 2-3 times a week.
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris


The most maintenance I performed on a 2007 Baroness used on a PGA golf course was replacing both transport axle bearings and the reel bearings. The gears looked fantastic. The (2) gaskets for the gear covers were the most expensive items.

The clutch may have issues at some point. However, I have never experienced any yet. The gears will last forever if you keep them greased.

Bedknives are a $100+ and replacement reels are $900+. The reels are super hardened and keep a sharp edge longer which keeps you from needing grinds.

Baroness Instructional PDF's are here.

This is the service manual.


----------



## 1FASTSS

Thanks for the info all.

I went ahead and pulled the trigger and purchased a 2013 LM56. I was told that it was only back lapped once and the course upgraded the whole fleet and let these go. Looks to be in really good condition but we shall see once it gets here.. Should be at my house by Wed or Thursday this week. It included a service manual and the groomer attachment. Cant wait to try it out.

Still holding out a small bit of hope I can get my hands on the parts needed to repair my Allett Reel so that I can kept that for some maintenance work.


----------



## TulsaFan

@1FASTSS Congrats! You are going to love it.


----------



## 1FASTSS

TulsaFan said:


> @1FASTSS Congrats! You are going to love it.


Thanks, after doing some research on the other big brands 3 what drew me in was the gear drives these have and the harden steel reels.


----------



## ISU

Fellas- what's the usual timeframe for a response back from Bobby or Alex at baroness after requesting parts via email ([email protected])? sent email Wednesday for replacement bedknife and set of bedknife screws and haven't heard back.

Should I be calling instead?

Thanks.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I'll leave this to @TulsaFan as he seems to have them on speed dial 

I am lucky to have a Baroness dealer here in town I can go to for parts.

I would order bedknife screws from McMaster-Carr as you can get them with Torx heads which are much easier to install and remove. I don't have the exact link on me right now but just do a search in this thread and it should come up as I have posted it before.


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> I'll leave this to @TulsaFan as he seems to have them on speed dial
> 
> I am lucky to have a Baroness dealer here in town I can go to for parts.
> 
> I would order bedknife screws from McMaster-Carr as you can get them with Torx heads which are much easier to install and remove. I don't have the exact link on me right now but just do a search in this thread and it should come up as I have posted it before.


I took another one of @Mightyquinn's valuable suggestions and bought those McMaster-Carr Bedknife Screws. However, I have never had to switch out a bedknife as of two seasons of owning the mower.

@ISU Regarding parts, I would email them again. Typically, it only takes a day before I get a shipping confirmation after sending them my order. They also have my cc# on file. Covid may them delayed a bit, but Alex and Co. are very responsive and great to work with on parts! :thumbup:

@1FASTSS Have you received your mower?


----------



## ISU

@Mightyquinn -thank you sir. yeah I was thinking getting the torx screws however found a guy to work on the baroness local I can take it to for service/grinds when needed so I am just gonna have him replace the bedknife to begin a relationship for future grinds and such. Though might not be a bad idea to just have him put on the torx screws instead.

@TulsaFan - I sent a follow up email, fingers crossed I get a response! Perhaps I need to start using your name with those guys so I get speedy service😂


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Anyone in the Columbia, SC area that has found a good place that can service the Baroness?

Along those lines, @Mightyquinn does the Fayetteville dealer service these too? Grindings?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Backyard Soldier said:


> Anyone in the Columbia, SC area that has found a good place that can service the Baroness?
> 
> Along those lines, @Mightyquinn does the Fayetteville dealer service these too? Grindings?


I wouldn't recommend taking your Baroness to the Fayetteville Dealer to get it serviced especially for grinding the reel. I took my 1st Baroness in there to get the reel sharpened before I replaced it and after getting it back it looked like they just backlapped the crap out of it instead grinding it. The bedknife was like razor thin when I got it back and if you go in the back of the store where the shop is at they don't have anything that even looks like they have the ability to do it.

With all that being said, I highly doubt you would even need to get the reel sharpened unless there is NO relief left on the blades. From my experience all you really ever need is a new bedknife and a light backlapping to mate the reel and bedknife together and you will have a razor sharp mower again. Replacing a bedknife is SUPER easy to do by yourself and the only "special" tool you need is a torque wrench which you can by at Harbor Freight really cheap.

If you are going to take your mower to someone else to do all the work then I wouldn't even worry about buying the Torx bedknife screws as the guy you are taking it to should have what he needs to take them off an on. I guess you could still buy them as they are probably cheaper then what Baroness will sell you


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Mightyquinn said:


> Backyard Soldier said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone in the Columbia, SC area that has found a good place that can service the Baroness?
> 
> Along those lines, @Mightyquinn does the Fayetteville dealer service these too? Grindings?
> 
> 
> 
> I wouldn't recommend taking your Baroness to the Fayetteville Dealer to get it serviced especially for grinding the reel. I took my 1st Baroness in there to get the reel sharpened before I replaced it and after getting it back it looked like they just backlapped the crap out of it instead grinding it. The bedknife was like razor thin when I got it back and if you go in the back of the store where the shop is at they don't have anything that even looks like they have the ability to do it.
> 
> With all that being said, I highly doubt you would even need to get the reel sharpened unless there is NO relief left on the blades. From my experience all you really ever need is a new bedknife and a light backlapping to mate the reel and bedknife together and you will have a razor sharp mower again. Replacing a bedknife is SUPER easy to do by yourself and the only "special" tool you need is a torque wrench which you can by at Harbor Freight really cheap.
> 
> If you are going to take your mower to someone else to do all the work then I wouldn't even worry about buying the Torx bedknife screws as the guy you are taking it to should have what he needs to take them off an on. I guess you could still buy them as they are probably cheaper then what Baroness will sell you
Click to expand...

Tracking @Mightyquinn ...that's good to know,,,I'm mostly asking as 'if' I needed a service. Right now, I don't have any issues. I still cut paper clear across the entire bedknife even months after my last backlapping.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

@ISU Alex is more responsive than Bobby. He did seem a bit annoyed when I asked for quotes on multiple parts. He mentioned there was a charge for canceling orders when all I asked was for quotes.


----------



## TulsaFan

For future reference, the RRproducts.com product to remove bedknife screws is Item #: R101278T. It's the one for John Deere, but fits the Baroness bedknife screws better than the Toro or Jacobsen tool.






If you have/buy a hand impact diver as seen in the video, you may not need the tool as one of those attachments might work as well.

I am not saying that this is required to remove Baroness bedknife screws. However, sometimes there is always the one screw that it's head will strip and you will wish you had the correct tool in the first place! :lol:

Then, you can switch to @Mightyquinn's suggested McMaster-Carr Bedknife Screws. I would use Anti-seize as well.


----------



## Mightyquinn

+1 on the Anti Seize :thumbup:


----------



## TulsaFan

Backyard Soldier said:


> Anyone in the Columbia, SC area that has found a good place that can service the Baroness?
> 
> Along those lines, @Mightyquinn does the Fayetteville dealer service these too? Grindings?


Here's some grinding advice directly from Baroness...

"When grinding the reel and bedknives, the normal Foley stones are okay. I recommend minimal contact when grinding, as the biggest mistake I see is removing of more material than actually needed. When replacing the bedknives, you will not need to grind the bedknife if you use Baroness original bed knives. The bed bar and the contact surface on the bed knives are CNC machined, and will ensure an accuracy that regular grinders cannot match."

Also, keep in mind that you are not going to need a grind as often as the Big3 (Toro, Jacobsen, John Deere). Most fairway mowers need a bedknife replacement and regrind every year. A Baroness fairway mower can go three seasons before needing a regrind. On average a Baroness fairway mower will go 750 hours between regrinds.


----------



## Mightyquinn

+1

For the average homeowner you will RARELY ever need to grind the reel on the Baroness as long as you have a relief and haven't hit anything causing serious damage to the reel all you generally need is a good backlap and you will be back in business. From personal experience, I mowed my lawn once soon after sanding it, so I was picking up a lot of sand in the reel and bedknife and the quality of cut went down as expected. I tried backlapping the crap out of it and could never get it to cut paper. I ended up putting a new bedknife on the mower and I was cutting paper again in no time.

I also ended up buying the bedknife facer from R&R so that I could reface the old bedknife and now I have 2 "used" bedknives that I will install when do dirty work(scalping and mowing after topdressing) with the mower so as not to dull the good bedknife. Which is another reason I recommend replacing the bedknife screws with the Torx head ones as it only take 5-10 minutes to swap out bedknives.


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> I also ended up buying the bedknife facer from R&R so that I could reface the old bedknife and now I have 2 "used" bedknives that I will install when do dirty work(scalping and mowing after topdressing) with the mower so as not to dull the good bedknife.


Speaking of bedknife facing, I asked a Baroness tech (Graeme) about whether he did it and how often.

Here's his response, "Yes, face them every time before backlapping."

Personally, I have never done it due to not having a backup bedknife in case I screwed something up. :lol:


----------



## 1FASTSS

TulsaFan said:


> @1FASTSS Have you received your mower?


It was unloaded today at lunchtime. It took them a few extra days to get it picked up. Planning on getting it all cleaned up and ready to mow. They said it would come with a service manual but it didnt. I'm sure there is a source online. :thumbup:


----------



## TulsaFan

*Why Baroness?*

Baroness greens mowers come with a full 5 year unlimited hour commercial warranty. (Jacobsen, John Deere, and Toro come with a 2 year warranty) So, you know that the engineering is sound by having 2.5 times the warranty of their competition. Although Baroness only entered the US market in 2006, the company was established in 1910.

It's equipped with the sharpest reel cutter in the market. Baroness uses its own special blend of steels and utilizes the same techniques used to achieve the hardness and tenacity that Japanese swards are known. It's sharp! The reel has made me bleed because I was not paying attention and underestimated its edge. The idea of not having to take my mower to a local golf course every year appeals to me greatly.

Most fairway mowers need a bedknife replacement and regrind every year. A Baroness fairway mower can go three seasons before needing a regrind. On average a Baroness fairway mower will go 750 hours between regrinds.


You hear Baroness owners state that their greens mower is all-gear driven and requires no adjustment to chains or belts. However, why is this important? It means the Baroness all-gear drive has 100% drive transmission rate with no slippage or lag between the drive (drum rotation) to reel rotation ratio. Additionally, it has extremely high durability compared to a belt or chain type greens mower.

So, the reason that I love my Baroness is the simplicity of the design. I like to mow. I do not like to work on broke down equipment when I need to mow. So, dependability is a key issue for me. I apply the grease every 10 hours and fuel when needed.

*Three levers to adjust the Baroness mower:*
*
1. Travel drum/reel cutting operation lever *


In the *Travel OFF position*, the mower is easy to push forward or pull backyards due to the drum not being engaged. I often switch it to this position when I am mowing in a narrow spot and need to pull the mower backyards. Try doing that with other greens mowers and you will understand why this is a great feature! I also leave it in this position when I am backlapping the mower.


In the *Travel ON position*, the mower's drum is engaged and allows you to easily power the mower without the reel or groomer engaged. However, it is harder to push or pull the mower manually.


In the *Reel ON position*, the mower's reel is engaged with the travel drum. 
*
2. HIGH/LOW Clip Frequency Lever*


The advantages of a high clip frequency is a faster rotation of the reel cutter which shortens the FOC and enables a more uniform cutting of a green. However, most residential lawns only require a low clip frequency. When the reel is moving at a high clip frequency issues can arise such as increased amount of grass clippings after cut, scalping of a lawn, and the risk of increased stress during the summer months. Cutting the green at a low frequency will reduce the collection of sand when top dressing and decrease the wear on the real cutter and bedknife.

*3. Groomer, De-thatcher, Rotatry Brush Accessory Lever* 
You can choose forward direction or reverse direction (bidirectional) with a simple move of the lever. Also, you can use the lever to turn the accessory off. 

*Groomer Accessory:* This has the benefit of straightening the green's turf and standing up laid-down grass to cut. Correcting the angle of the turf (grain of the turf) when cutting helps keep the length of the grass (cutting height) uniform and leads to improved putting quality. As a result, this promotes off shoots in the grass, increases the number of sprouts, unifies the leaf area and makes the turf stronger. The recommended attachment direction is forward.
*
De-thatcher Accessory:* This also benefits turf by standing up the grass blades vertically. However, it has 50% less blades than a groomer which allows it to aggressively go deeper in the turf. The recommended attachment direction is reverse. In reverse rotation the optional attachment can remove thatch between the surface and the grass. This prevents the occurrence of disease and harmful insects. This, also make it easier for the sand to penetrate down into the surface when top dressing. Running this is reverse will help to keep bark and other objects from making their way to the reel. 
*
Brush Accessory: * This benefits turf by eliminating debris and removing morning dew. These can be operated in either forward or reverse direction according to the intended use. This is very helpful after top dressing your lawn to keep the sand away from the reel.
*
AUTOMOTIVE STYLE CLUTCH*
The clutch allows you to feather it which results in a smooth start. Definitely no abrupt start from a belt. The ability of feathering also helps when going around objects on your lawn.



These are just many aspects of why I chose a Baroness over greens mowers from the other Big3. Don't drink the Kool Aid...Do your own investigation of what you want from your future greens mower!


----------



## Mightyquinn

You should work for the marketing department of Baroness


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> You should work for the marketing department of Baroness


I am just not as good as you at keeping secrets.


----------



## 1FASTSS

TulsaFan said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> You should work for the marketing department of Baroness
> 
> 
> 
> I am just not as good as you at keeping secrets.
Click to expand...

LOL...I should have looked at this before I pulled it off the pallet yesterday but in all honesty it took me about all of 3 minutes to figure everything out. Did a quick mow and it will take me a few mows to get used to the clutch but its all good. Its too bad we are coming up on the end of the season. :mrgreen:


----------



## TulsaFan

*Transport Axle Replacement Bearings*
Baroness Part# K0601062040 
Description: Bearing 6204C3

Manufacturer: Koyo 
Model: 6204



*Reel Replacement Bearings*
Baroness Part# K0631302040
Description: Tapered Roller 30204 JRP6

Manufacturer: Koyo
Model: Hi-Cap 30204J


----------



## Mightyquinn

Yeah, I noticed that too after I replace those when I put a new reel in mine. There are quite a few parts you can cross reference and get online without having to go through a Baroness dealer.


----------



## Pjohns1

I have a Baroness greens mower. Lately I've been having transmission issues. The travel mode works fine, but issues when switching into reel drive. It will work fine for 2 minutes or so and then the reel stops working. Switching modes in the transmission doesn't fix the issue. It's basically shot for the day. The next day it's basically the same issue. I took apart the left side panel and the gears look fine and switching the transmission appears to move the gears appropriately. Any ideas?


----------



## TulsaFan

Pjohns1 said:


> I have a Baroness greens mower. Lately I've been having transmission issues. The travel mode works fine, but issues when switching into reel drive. It will work fine for 2 minutes or so and then the reel stops working. Switching modes in the transmission doesn't fix the issue. It's basically shot for the day. The next day it's basically the same issue. I took apart the left side panel and the gears look fine and switching the transmission appears to move the gears appropriately. Any ideas?


Have you adjusted the clutch? If those gears are intact and lubed, the clutch is probably slipping.


----------



## DEW75

Tmank87 said:


> Awesome man. You'll love it.


I am looking at a baroness LM66T. What are the pros and cons on these mowers? Are they as maintenance fresh as published? Any scuff marks when turning? Are they easy to handle when turning?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Other than normal maintenance (changing the engine oil, lubing the zerk fittings, backlapping occasionally......) you shouldn't have too many issues with them. Not sure about the scuff marks you are talking about, that sounds more like a user issue than the mower. If you have never used a greens mower before there will be a small learning curve involved but besides that it shouldn't be any harder to turn than any other greens mower.


----------



## ISU

Happy to report I succeeded at replacing the bedknife of my unit, took me over an hour just to take off all the original screws. Bad news is I managed to already strip the new torx screws...&#128518;


----------



## Mightyquinn

How?


----------



## ISU

Mightyquinn said:


> How?


I think I used the wrong bit. Tomorrow I plan to stop by hardware store and see if I find a tool I can use to remove them so I can replace the screws. If not, I hope this bedknife last me years so don't have to deal with it for a while😂


----------



## Mightyquinn

Yeah, we should have added that you would need a T30 driver for those screws. You should be able to find a T30 driver for your Torque wrench at Lowe's/Home Depot/Harbor Freight.


----------



## TulsaFan

ISU said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> How?
> 
> 
> 
> I think I used the wrong bit. Tomorrow I plan to stop by hardware store and see if I find a tool I can use to remove them so I can replace the screws. If not, I hope this bedknife last me years so don't have to deal with it for a while😂
Click to expand...

Did you use a torque wrench?


----------



## ISU

I used my cordless impact drill, i fried my regular drill when taking off the Baroness screws. the bit I did use was a torx bit that fit but perhaps wasn't the right rise after all or the fact I used an impact drill to tighten them might have been my error.

Is there a tool you guys recommend that would allow me to get the striped head screws off now? I'm thinking I made myself another 2hrs worth of work just to remove those suckers now.


----------



## Ware

Not sure about Baroness, but Toro bedknife screws call for pretty low torque - I'm wanting to say <20 ft-lbs.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I would try to use the correct size bit first as there might be enough material left for it to grab onto if you used too small of a bit the first time. Whatever you do, DO NOT use your cordless impact to do this or to reinstall the new ones. Go to Harbor Freight and get yourself a 3/8" Torque Wrench and Torque them to 62-80 ft/lbs starting at the center and working your way out to the ends.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Ware said:


> Not sure about Baroness, but Toro bedknife screws call for pretty low torque - I'm wanting to say <20 ft-lbs.


We are dealing with Japanese steel here so it requires a little more torque :lol:


----------



## Ware

Mightyquinn said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure about Baroness, but Toro bedknife screws call for pretty low torque - I'm wanting to say <20 ft-lbs.
> 
> 
> 
> We are dealing with Japanese steel here so it requires a little more torque :lol:
Click to expand...

62-80 in-lbs is like 5-7 ft-lbs...


----------



## Ware

Mightyquinn said:


> ...and Torque them to 62-80 ft/lbs starting at the center and working your way out to the ends.


I think you mean in-lbs here.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Interesting, I always read that as ft/lbs and not inch pounds. I guess I have been over torquing them


----------



## Ware

Mightyquinn said:


> Interesting, I always read that as ft/lbs and not inch pounds. I guess I have been over torquing them


Only by a factor of 12. :lol:


----------



## Mightyquinn

I just went out and checked my Torque wrench that I use and it IS IN/LBS NOT FT/LBS. So I haven't been over doing it and just had a major brain fart. It's just been awhile since I have done it


----------



## ISU

Fellas- we're back in business...turns out all I needed was the right set of tools!&#128514;. Once I got the torque wrench+t30 bit those screws came right out no problems. Thanks for all the tips!


----------



## Mightyquinn

Did you get an inch/lbs or ft/lbs torque wrench?

I know I was confusing earlier


----------



## ISU

Mightyquinn said:


> Did you get an inch/lbs or ft/lbs torque wrench?
> 
> I know I was confusing earlier


Got the inch/lbs wrench...super easy to replace the bedknife now, glad I didn't have to take it in to the shop for this. :thumbup:


----------



## Mightyquinn

Glad to hear that. Having the right tools for the job makes it so much easier!!!


----------



## 1FASTSS

Typically after using a torque wrench a few times you should be able to get them pretty damn close with a regular ratchet. Guess all the years of wrenching on my racecars make gets you seasoned to the feel.

On another note I have been talking with my local dealer at Davco turf and he sent me this link to a led replacement for the light. Figured I'd give it a shot for $35 since the lens was busted on mine in transit. If anyone wants the second one I'd be willing to let it go for 1/2 plus shipping? I'm told it only works with mowers that have the Subaru engines.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B9SS2FB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## B-Rad

Can I please be allowed in the Baroness Fan Club?

I just purchased a unit and it should ship next week. Does anyone know what model this is or have a manual I can start reading up on? It is a 22" model.

This is my first year reel mowing and I've been using a CT. I really do like the machine but am looking to minimize the tire tracks.





*End of Season* 

*Beginning of Season*


----------



## Mightyquinn

Congratulations on the purchase. I think you have and LM56 and it's a "newer" model since it has a Subaru engine. You should be able to go to the Baroness website and download the manual for it. There is a TON of info in this thread but feel free to ask any questions you have but I'm sure you will have more once you receive your machine.

Welcome to the club!!!!


----------



## ISU

B-Rad said:


> Can I please be allowed in the Baroness Fan Club?
> 
> I just purchased a unit and it should ship next week. Does anyone know what model this is or have a manual I can start reading up on? It is a 22" model.
> 
> This is my first year reel mowing and I've been using a CT. I really do like the machine but am looking to minimize the tire tracks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *End of Season*
> 
> *Beginning of Season*


Welcome to the club and congrats on that unit! You will not be disappointed. :thumbup:


----------



## Backyard Soldier

B-Rad said:


> Can I please be allowed in the Baroness Fan Club?
> 
> I just purchased a unit and it should ship next week. Does anyone know what model this is or have a manual I can start reading up on? It is a 22" model.
> 
> This is my first year reel mowing and I've been using a CT. I really do like the machine but am looking to minimize the tire tracks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *End of Season*
> 
> *Beginning of Season*


It's a newer generation of my LM56. Mine has the Honda Engine. It's a generation or two between mine and the recent models that have the new catcher arm assembly.


----------



## waltonereed

Just curious for you Baroness owners out there, where did you source your mower from? I'm having the hardest time find any at all, let alone something in my price range or geographic location.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I bought my first one from a pawn shop in Florida and my second one from an auction in Minnesota. I paid $2000 for the first one(almost brand new) and $300 for the second one (was in great shape just caked with dirt). You just got to keep an eye out for them as they will pop up every now and then. They aren't as abundant as Toro's and John Deere's.


----------



## zeus201

waltonereed said:


> Just curious for you Baroness owners out there, where did you source your mower from? I'm having the hardest time find any at all, let alone something in my price range or geographic location.


First one came from an outfit in Minneapolis that was selling them off after lease ended at local course. I'd venture to say, a number of us picked up Baroness from there. I ended up paying $1000 for it and another $100 for dethacher attachment. The one i purchased was in pristine condition and came with groomer attachment. Mower ended up being a demo unit and still feel bad when I scoff the paint.

The second one I bought earlier this year for $400 from a reseller out in New York. I intended it to be my main mower and use the nicer one as a backup, but what I received really didn't match what was advertised imo. When I received it, the reel and drum wouldn't even turn because whoever used it last somehow got it clogged during what I guess was a scalp. Got that all cleaned out, changed fluids out, and greased everything. Cuts grass but needs some TLC. At the very least, grind, new bedknife, new seals / gaskets for the groomer attachment, and figure out the clutch engagement as it difficult to engage. Aesthetically, fresh stickers, some paint, new rubber for handle bars, and front plastic handle cover thing.

If I can get everything sorted out, might sell that one off plus my GM1000 as I kinda want a Toro Flex or JD 220e :lol:


----------



## waltonereed

zeus201 said:


> waltonereed said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just curious for you Baroness owners out there, where did you source your mower from? I'm having the hardest time find any at all, let alone something in my price range or geographic location.
> 
> 
> 
> First one came from an outfit in Minneapolis that was selling them off after lease ended at local course. I'd venture to say, a number of us picked up Baroness from there. I ended up paying $1000 for it and another $100 for dethacher attachment. The one i purchased was in pristine condition and came with groomer attachment. Mower ended up being a demo unit and still feel bad when I scoff the paint.
> 
> The second one I bought earlier this year for $400 from a reseller out in New York. I intended it to be my main mower and use the nicer one as a backup, but what I received really didn't match what was advertised imo. When I received it, the reel and drum wouldn't even turn because whoever used it last somehow got it clogged during what I guess was a scalp. Got that all cleaned out, changed fluids out, and greased everything. Cuts grass but needs some TLC. At the very least, grind, new bedknife, new seals / gaskets for the groomer attachment, and figure out the clutch engagement as it difficult to engage. Aesthetically, fresh stickers, some paint, new rubber for handle bars, and front plastic handle cover thing.
> 
> If I can get everything sorted out, might sell that one off plus my GM1000 as I kinda want a Toro Flex or JD 220e :lol:
Click to expand...

When you get to that point, just let me know


----------



## zeus201

Will do!


----------



## B-Rad

I couldn't wait until next year so I mowed today even though the grass is headed into dormancy. This mower is a tank but it turns on a dime and I thought was surprisingly easy to handle.

The notch on the axel and wheels are tough to line back up. It's a snug fit. Is anyone lubricating the axels. My fear was it would become a mess and have everything stick to it when mowing.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I do lube my axles occasionally and also inside the rims too where it slides on the shaft. If yours has been sitting for some time you may want to sand inside the mounting hole and the shaft as that will help the wheels slide on and off.


----------



## TulsaFan

B-Rad said:


> I couldn't wait until next year so I mowed today even though the grass is headed into dormancy. This mower is a tank but it turns on a dime and I thought was surprisingly easy to handle.
> 
> The notch on the axel and wheels are tough to line back up. It's a snug fit. Is anyone lubricating the axels. My fear was it would become a mess and have everything stick to it when mowing.


When I lube my mower, I wipe off the excess grease to lube the axles. Slide the wheels on and off a few times and then remove the excess grease from the axle. Makes it much easier to use the transport wheels.


----------



## B-Rad

Thank you @Mightyquinn and @TulsaFan. That did the trick and it's as smooth as buttah now!


----------



## ISU

Fellas- those of you that may be looking to add to their fleet...turfnet.com has one up for sale@waltonereed


----------



## Lust4Lawn

What are the impressions of others of this mower and a potentially higher height of cut. I'd like to go to 1-in or maybe a little bit below 3/4. But will this mower realistically perform at 1 inch?

Is the 11 blade reel going to be at a disadvantage compared to an 8 reel unit?


----------



## TulsaFan

Lust4Lawn said:


> What are the impressions of others of this mower and a potentially higher height of cut. I'd like to go to 1-in or maybe a little bit below 3/4. But will this mower realistically perform at 1 inch?
> 
> Is the 11 blade reel going to be at a disadvantage compared to an 8 reel unit?


Frequency of Clip depends on the number of reel blades and cutting height. So, a nine blade reel would work better for a 1" height of cut. I cut mine at 0.5" with an 11 blade. YOU SAY 1" UNTIL YOU BUY THE MOWER...THEN, YOU JUST KEEP GOING LOWER EACH AND EVERY SEASON. :lol:


----------



## Mightyquinn

TulsaFan said:


> Lust4Lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> What are the impressions of others of this mower and a potentially higher height of cut. I'd like to go to 1-in or maybe a little bit below 3/4. But will this mower realistically perform at 1 inch?
> 
> Is the 11 blade reel going to be at a disadvantage compared to an 8 reel unit?
> 
> 
> 
> Frequency of Cut dictates number of reel blades and height. So, a nine blade reel would work better for a 1" height of cut. I cut mine at 0.5" with an 11 blade. YOU SAY 1" UNTIL YOU BUY THE MOWER...THEN, YOU JUST KEEP GOING LOWER EACH AND EVERY SEASON. :lol:
Click to expand...

I second what @TulsaFan says about mowing at 1" you will want to go lower eventually but it will cut at 1" if you want to start there.

I have read on many posts on TLF here about having stragglers when cutting at a higher HOC with other mowers but I have never seen or had it happen to me with the Baroness. Maybe others can comment in here about that but with the 11 blade reel I have never had an issue with uncut blades of grass no matter what HOC I have cut at.


----------



## zeus201

I get a few stragglers here and there mowing at 3/4" with 11 blade.


----------



## waltonereed

zeus201 said:


> I get a few stragglers here and there mowing at 3/4" with 11 blade.


Is that with high or low FOC?


----------



## Lust4Lawn

@TulsaFan that's almost what I'm afraid of. It's a slippery slope.


----------



## Mightyquinn

waltonereed said:


> zeus201 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I get a few stragglers here and there mowing at 3/4" with 11 blade.
> 
> 
> 
> Is that with high or low FOC?
Click to expand...

I also wonder if it has something to do with Cool season grasses? Do you also have a groomer on either of your Baroness'?


----------



## zeus201

waltonereed said:


> Is that with high or low FOC?


Low. I've tried the high FOC setting honestly didn't notice much difference. As mentioned below, I honestly think it's more of an artifact of mowing a bit higher with 11-blade and cool season lawn.

But, I do appreciate the smaller clipping size with the high FOC setting, but I've just stuck with the low.



Mightyquinn said:


> I also wonder if it has something to do with Cool season grasses? Do you also have a groomer on either of your Baroness'?


Groomers on both. I have them set to rotate backwards and I think it helps lift the blades before cutting, plus helps "fling" away any mulch which makes it ways to the turf. I've gotta do some work on the older Baroness and debated on replacing the reel to lower blade number.

I'm with you and wondered if it's more of mowing cool season grass and cutting at 3/4" HOC with a 11-blade. When I used to mow at 1/2" HOC with my Toro (11-blade) or Baroness, I just didn't really notice them as often as I did this season mowing at 3/4".

And to be honest, no one notices it besides me. To not discourage anyone, even with a 11-blade, the quality cut is light years better than any rotary mower. Besides, gives me a reason to go back over the area and make the strips pop a bit more.


----------



## waltonereed

@Jbird95 and I were discussing the groomer and verticutter attachments. Both of our (soon to be arriving) mowers lack these attachments and have just the brush.

Is it worth spending the money to get either or both? Can we get away with using, for example, the Sun Joe dethatcher/scarifier, or do these attachments offer something more, other than convenience?


----------



## Mightyquinn

waltonereed said:


> @Jbird95 and I were discussing the groomer and verticutter attachments. Both of our (soon to be arriving) mowers lack these attachments and have just the brush.
> 
> Is it worth spending the money to get either or both? Can we get away with using, for example, the Sun Joe dethatcher/scarifier, or do these attachments offer something more, other than convenience?


I personally wouldn't buy them unless you can find a deal on them somewhere. They go for around $1000 each and they don't replace a true verticutter.


----------



## ISU

What Tulsafan said below is spot on! :lol: ..I was one of those just wanting to cut at 1" or above...began to use the baroness and didn't take long before bringing down that height of cut fast. A true addiction! even so I added a putting green to the back yard haha.

As far as stragglers, I have a 9blade reel on mine and there are a few here and there at times but then it gives me the excuse to double cut. Overall lawn looks/feels like a carpet which is what we care about right? :mrgreen:

" YOU SAY 1" UNTIL YOU BUY THE MOWER...THEN, YOU JUST KEEP GOING LOWER EACH AND EVERY SEASON. :lol:"


----------



## ISU

@waltonereed did you end up getting yours from that turfnet listing? I noticed the listing only stayed up for few days or so.


----------



## waltonereed

ISU said:


> @waltonereed did you end up getting yours from that turfnet listing? I noticed the listing only stayed up for few days or so.


Yeah I did. It's my understanding that several TLF members swarmed all over this listing :lol:


----------



## Backyard Soldier

waltonereed said:


> ISU said:
> 
> 
> 
> @waltonereed did you end up getting yours from that turfnet listing? I noticed the listing only stayed up for few days or so.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I did. It's my understanding that several TLF members swarmed all over this listing :lol:
Click to expand...

Hahaha. I'm NOT surprised. We should be hearing from them on here soon I hope.


----------



## ISU

Haha that's awesome, congrats!


----------



## Jbird95

As of this AM, there were 2 units left....


----------



## waltonereed

Well, here's the newest addition to the family. She's WAY bigger than she looks in photos. Been working on cleaning it up, changed oil, replaced spark plug. Just need to get some fresh gas, replace air filter, adjust reel to bedknife on one side, and grease it up.

I was very pleased with the condition it's in. Very little surface rust, cuts paper almost all the way across, reel and bedknife seem to be in good shape. I just hate that I have to wait another 3-4 months to use it 

If there's anything else I'm missing, let me know. I'll be ordering an hour meter as the mowing season approaches and might do some spray painting on the parts that have a little surface rust. Thanks to everyone for the help with purchasing this, especially @TulsaFan (he should be getting commission on all of these sales).


----------



## SC Grass Loon

She looks like she is in great condition!


----------



## DEW75

Looks to be in great condition. Is it a 22" or 27"? Is that the bracket to raise the HOC?


----------



## Mightyquinn

DEW75 said:


> Looks to be in great condition. Is it a 22" or 27"? Is that the bracket to raise the HOC?


The bracket on the front is for the grass catcher, it keeps the weight off the mower so your HOC isn't affected as much with the additional weight of the grass clippings.


----------



## TulsaFan

@waltonereed Welcome to the family! Your mower looks fantastic which it should for being a 2015 unit.

The rust on the front roller will come off on the first mow!

Congrats on a solid purchase! :thumbup:


----------



## ISU

Great looking unit, congrats! I think your lawn is in need of a fresh cut&#128513;


----------



## waltonereed

How much "give" or movement is there supposed to be in the throttle lever? Mine barely moves, and I was wondering if this is normal or not.

https://youtu.be/w82sXip3t74


----------



## TulsaFan

I would say that your movement appears pretty limited.

Here's a photo of mine without any throttle:



If you need to order a replacement throttle cable, here's the part info...

PART #: K1110090010 
DESCRIPTION: WIRE, THROTTLE 900 
PRICE: $11.40 (Of course...the will add S&H and a credit card fee)


----------



## waltonereed

TulsaFan said:


> I would say that your movement appears pretty limited.
> 
> Here's a photo of mine without any throttle:
> 
> 
> 
> If you need to order a replacement throttle cable, here's the part info...
> 
> PART #: K1110090010
> DESCRIPTION: WIRE, THROTTLE 900
> PRICE: $11.40 (Of course...the will add S&H and a credit card fee)


How can you tell when the cable needs to be replaced vs an adjustment needing to be made?


----------



## Mightyquinn

I would try and lube the cable first and see if that works or not. Just spray some WD40 down inside the cable and work the cable some and see if that helps.


----------



## Jbird95

Has anyone had good luck with a Baroness distributor that demonstrates solid customer service for ordering parts? I've sent multiple emails and left messages to [email protected] that haven't been responded to. I don't like begging businesses to take my money.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Jbird95 said:


> Has anyone had good luck with a Baroness distributor that demonstrates solid customer service for ordering parts? I've sent multiple emails and left messages to [email protected] that haven't been responded to. I don't like begging businesses to take my money.


I tried baroness USA and they just referred me to Eastern Turf in NC. There, it's best to just call someone directly. Emails are a waste. Some have had great success. So Good luck


----------



## Mightyquinn

Backyard Soldier said:


> Jbird95 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone had good luck with a Baroness distributor that demonstrates solid customer service for ordering parts? I've sent multiple emails and left messages to [email protected] that haven't been responded to. I don't like begging businesses to take my money.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried baroness USA and they just referred me to Eastern Turf in NC. There, it's best to just call someone directly. Emails are a waste. Some have had great success. So Good luck
Click to expand...

+1 on Eastern Turf, you will want to talk to Jeff as he is the parts guy there. Not sure what their hours are during the holidays but it's a family run local business so their is just basically one person for each department. Jeff is the main "parts" guy there but John can help you too but he is the "sales" guy. They are generally pretty friendly and easy to work with. I am lucky to have them local to where I can walk into the shop and talk to someone face to face.


----------



## TulsaFan

Jbird95 said:


> Has anyone had good luck with a Baroness distributor that demonstrates solid customer service for ordering parts? I've sent multiple emails and left messages to [email protected] that haven't been responded to. I don't like begging businesses to take my money.


You are using the incorrect email address. Try [email protected]

Also, you can cc Nich at [email protected] for all Kyoeisha USA, Inc. / Baroness inquiries or requests.


----------



## Jbird95

Tulsa Fan, looking back I indeed used the proper email, twice. Thank you fellas for Eastern Turf contact info.


----------



## Jbird95

Can someone please provide a picture of the throttle linkage/cable connected to the throttle lever under the plastic cover up top? Specifically there is a hook at the end of the throttle cable that inserts into the throttle control lever. After reading these reads, seems like a lot of folks monkeyed with their throttles to accommodate their walking pace. Thank you


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

@Jbird95 Message Alex Yokoi at [email protected] He responds to the order emails.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Uh oh.

So I got a problem. I pulled out the Baroness today to start my season with a scalp. As I was adjusting the height for the roller, the nut height adjuster wasn't moving very well. On closer inspection, it looks like the rail for the carriage bolt has bent, and fairly significantly, that the carriage bolt can't slide the roller up and down.

One side









Other side









I was able to remove one side off the roller easily, but the other is secured well to a nut on the axle. I was able to remove the grease nipple in this picture...








...but the bigger nut was still secured and I couldn't figure out how to remove that to slide the rail off.

My thought process is to bring the rails to my local outdoor power shop that services machines. Maybe they can straighten the rails. I need to get a rapport with them to sharpen my reel anyway. If they can't fix it, I'll have to order new ones and figure out how to remove the stuck side.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Try turning the larger nut clockwise to remove. I believe it's opposite to the normal direction so it doesn't come loose in operation.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

I'll try doing that. It didn't come to mind to think it could be reverse threaded. I know I had to secure the other end with a wrench to prevent the axle from spinning. I haven't had a chance to pull up the manual and look at the diagrams yet.


----------



## TulsaFan

FYI...Those roller brackets were roughly $30 each when I bought a pair last year.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

That's not too bad if it'll cost similar to fix. How did you remove it? Does this seem like a common issue for the brackets to bend?


----------



## waltonereed

Now that people are starting to mow again, I'm looking forward to this thread being more active again!

I was looking at my engine SN, and it was made in Japan. I'm thinking about replacing the carb, but the part for this specific SN is really expensive ($80+). Has anyone run up against this before? Can I use an equivalent carb that would be much cheaper?


----------



## Jbird95

@waltonereed 
I find the OEM Honda carbs perform well with a rebuild kit installed. I would try that before installing a $14 carb.

What type of grease are y'all using?


----------



## Mightyquinn

I use Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty Grease with the Green label. It seems like a quality grease and can easily be found. As long as you are greasing every 10 hrs of operation it shouldn't really matter what kind you are using as long as it's NGLI #2


----------



## TulsaFan

waltonereed said:


> I was looking at my engine SN, and it was made in Japan. I'm thinking about replacing the carb, but the part for this specific SN is really expensive ($80+). Has anyone run up against this before? Can I use an equivalent carb that would be much cheaper?


You can buy a cheap carb off of Ebay or Amazon. However, I prefer OEM carbs. So, I bought a 3L ultrasonic cleaner off of Ebay last year to clean mine. It does an amazing job!


----------



## waltonereed

I was all prepped to scalp, then the rain came in 

We had our street repaved in the winter, so there are some tiny little pebbles of asphalt hiding in my front strip. I've done my best to pick up as much as I can by hand and with my rotary, but how worried should I be about these? How big do rocks have to be to do damage to the reel or bedknife?


----------



## Mightyquinn

I would get your leaf blower out there and try to blow as much of that debris out as possible as long as you get all the big ones out of there you should be good. I have ran over small pebbles and rocks with mine before without any damage but I think the worst case scenario would be a chipped bedknife but you should already have an extra one on back up just in case


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> I was able to remove one side off the roller easily, but the other is secured well to a nut on the axle. I was able to remove the grease nipple in this picture...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...but the bigger nut was still secured and I couldn't figure out how to remove that to slide the rail off.


So I'm still having trouble getting this bolt off. It's the 102b-5 Pin, Stepped M15-19 holding the R-Groomer Bracket to the roller. The problem I'm having is getting any grip on the roller to hold it in place so I can turn the bolt. You fellas have any ideas? The other side is a left handed thread that came off easily.

I finally got a quote on some parts from the national dealer, too. Alex Yokoi doesn't handle the orders anymore, apparently. The new guy is Nich Uchida.


----------



## TulsaFan

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> So I'm still having trouble getting this bolt off. It's the 102b-5 Pin, Stepped M15-19 holding the R-Groomer Bracket to the roller. The problem I'm having is getting any grip on the roller to hold it in place so I can turn the bolt. You fellas have any ideas?


I used a rubber strap wrench similar to this to hold the roller while I turned the bolt. These are pretty handy and I use them more than I would have expected.

Good Luck! :thumbup:


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Where are you strapping it? The roller moves independent of the shaft that I'm attempting to remove the bolt from. The only place to secure the shaft from what I can feel is to hold a wrench over the left-threaded bolt. I've sprayed it a few times with WD40 to hopefully loosen it up. I might try a heat gun to loosen up any gunk stuck in the threads.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Could you not put a bolt in the other end and use that with a wrench to keep it from spinning? Or use a vise.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

I did try to rethread the left-thread bolt so I could hold the shaft in place with a wrench, then placed my wrench over the stuck bolt to loosen. But it's stuck and won't budge. I ended up damaging the head of the left-threaded bolt. It's not damaged beyond use, but the corner metal did get dinged.


----------



## Jbird95

Does anyone have a rough price estimate for the dethatcher and groomer accessories? Thought I recall $1Kish for each but want to confirm. Thanks


----------



## Mightyquinn

Jbird95 said:


> Does anyone have a rough price estimate for the dethatcher and groomer accessories? Thought I recall $1Kish for each but want to confirm. Thanks


I think you are correct on that price. I think the brush is a little cheaper at around $800. I don't think it would hurt to ask again how much they are going for, who knows, the price could have came down????


----------



## Jbird95

Thanks @Mightyquinn. I have the brush attachment and it works extremely well.


----------



## Jbird95

has anyone tried changing out their attachments (dethatcher or groomer). Curious to how involved the process is. Thanks


----------



## Mightyquinn

Jbird95 said:


> has anyone tried changing out their attachments (dethatcher or groomer). Curious to how involved the process is. Thanks


I've done it a bunch of times. It's (2) 13MM bolts and a 17MM bolt if I remember correctly. Pretty easy and straight forward takes less than 5 minutes.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Jbird95 said:


> has anyone tried changing out their attachments (dethatcher or groomer). Curious to how involved the process is. Thanks


Yes....I alternate back and forth from my detacher and groomer a few times a season....it becomes quite easy the more you do it....just a few bolts involved


----------



## Jbird95

Regarding the bed knives. I see Baroness offers a 1mm, 1.5mm and 3mm. Moreover they offer an extended and standard version. Anyone care to coach me on these? Thank you


----------



## Mightyquinn

Basically the thinner the bedknife the lower you can cut and the extended bedknives will reduce the aggresivness of the cut of the mower. So if you don't have any issues going super low(like on a putting green) or tearing up the green just stick to the normal bedknives.


----------



## Tmank87

Gents - getting ready to try out my first backlapping session.

Few pretty newbie questions:

1. Should the unit be in any particular 'cutting' mode? i.e. cutting mode with the reel engaged or travel only?
2. I'm aware the reel should spin opposite/backwards from the cutting direction; is there a particular speed I should be spinning this thing? Fairly quickly/slowly?
3. Do I need to back the reel off the bedknife before starting; should it not be cutting paper? Or just leave as is? 
4. How many passes am I making w/ the brush/compound? i.e. how many rotations should the reel make (generally)?

Sounds like the nut is 13mm on the right side of the unit (when looking at it from the front/reel); I have located already!

Anything else I should know/keep in mind prior to jumping in here?

Much appreciated gentleman. @Mightyquinn @TulsaFan


----------



## Mightyquinn

1. It should be in the "Travel OFF" mode or "Neutral" where you can push the mower and spin the reel with your hand with the mower off of course.

2. Use a drill in the FORWARD/DRILL position as this will rotate the reel backwards. I would rotate at a slow to medium pace.

3. I guess it all depends on where it is at currently. Light to no contact would be a good place to start. There is NO # of rotations it's going to be a change in the sound it makes and a little bit of feel. It's just something you have to learn by doing to know what feels right.

4. Make 2-3 passes with the brush and compound and just try and get on there as evenly as possible, you don't have to be perfect. Once the sound changes, I will run the brush without adding any additional compound over the blades as they are spinning to help even out the compound that is already on the blades.

This is one of those things that the more you do it the better you will get at it and know what to look for. Just be patient and try not to over think the whole process.


----------



## Tmank87

Mightyquinn said:


> 1. It should be in the "Travel OFF" mode or "Neutral" where you can push the mower and spin the reel with your hand with the mower off of course.
> 
> 2. Use a drill in the FORWARD/DRILL position as this will rotate the reel backwards. I would rotate at a slow to medium pace.
> 
> 3. I guess it all depends on where it is at currently. Light to no contact would be a good place to start. There is NO # of rotations it's going to be a change in the sound it makes and a little bit of feel. It's just something you have to learn by doing to know what feels right.
> 
> 4. Make 2-3 passes with the brush and compound and just try and get on there as evenly as possible, you don't have to be perfect. Once the sound changes, I will run the brush without adding any additional compound over the blades as they are spinning to help even out the compound that is already on the blades.
> 
> This is one of those things that the more you do it the better you will get at it and know what to look for. Just be patient and try not to over think the whole process.


Thanks man, did you get the impression I was overthinking it  (I was/am).

Going to give this thing a shot tomorrow. I probably don't really _need_ a backlap at the moment, but I figure after scalping, probably wouldn't hurt.

I assume once 'done' you give her a rinse down with water to remove any remaining compound?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Yes and you will want to check for sharpness after rinsing and drying it off. You may also need to adjust the reel to bedknife a little to get it dialed in just right.


----------



## Tmank87

Mightyquinn said:


> Yes and you will want to check for sharpness after rinsing and drying it off. You may also need to adjust the reel to bedknife a little to get it dialed in just right.


Yes sir, 10/4. Want to try to hit this tomorrow morning. Need to run to the big box and pick up a crappy paint brush I suppose.


----------



## Tmank87

I've got another newb question for you guys. When adjusting the height of cut, do you guys use a ratchet/socket to adjust the front roller up/down? If so, what size is that bolt? I've just been using a wrench and it's a pretty big PITA.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I use ratcheting wrenches to make adjustments on those. They are 17mm I believe.

Just FYI, you are adjusting the bedknife not the reel. You shouldn't need to make that big of adjustments but that is where a ratcheting wrench comes in handy.


----------



## Tmank87

Cool - thanks, man. Will definitely give the 17mm a try, using a wrench to try to dial in the height was a pain in my rear. As always, really appreciate it.


----------



## waltonereed

@Tmank87 I use a rachet and the longest socket I could find in my toolbox...it's a 3" long 1" socket.

@Mightyquinn beat me to it. I didn't have a long enough 17mm socket, so a 1 inch will suffice


----------



## Tmank87

waltonereed said:


> @Tmank87 I use a rachet and the longest socket I could find in my toolbox...it's a 3" long 1" socket.
> 
> @Mightyquinn beat me to it. I didn't have a long enough 17mm socket, so a 1 inch will suffice


Thanks man, need to check if I have a 17mm deep socket. May have to place a special order. I make it look difficult using a wrench :?


----------



## Mightyquinn

You should be able to go to Lowe's/Home Depot/Harbor Freight and buy an individual ratcheting wrench in 13mm and 17mm that way you have what you need for HOC adjustments too.


----------



## Tmank87

Mightyquinn said:


> You should be able to go to Lowe's/Home Depot/Harbor Freight and buy an individual ratcheting wrench in 13mm and 17mm that way you have what you need for HOC adjustments too.


 :bandit: :thumbup:

Thank you

Edit: just ordered both off Amazon, will be a game changer.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

So an update to my problem. I still can't get that pin bolt removed from the roller shaft. The lock bolt on the left side is so worn that it can't lock the shaft in place, so it'll loosen any time I try to turn the pin bolt. I've warped the head of the left-threaded bolt too much by holding a wrench to that side. My ratchet wrench can still go over it with a bit of wiggling in at least.

So, I'm out of luck on replacing the bracket unless I basically get a whole new roller.

But then I had a bright idea of brute forcing the carriage bolt to straighten out the bracket. Fortunately, the bolt's metal is much stronger than the bracket metal. The carriage bolt ended up shaving slices of metal off the bracket. File down the shavings and repeat a few times and it is functional. I assembled everything back together and the mower is operational at least. The brackets are slightly bent and some metal is missing, but I can adjust the HOC and it stays in place.


----------



## Tmank87

Tmank87 said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to go to Lowe's/Home Depot/Harbor Freight and buy an individual ratcheting wrench in 13mm and 17mm that way you have what you need for HOC adjustments too.
> 
> 
> 
> :bandit: :thumbup:
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Edit: just ordered both off Amazon, will be a game changer.
Click to expand...

What is the size of this bolt circled below? Was hoping they was the 17mm but just got my wrench and the bolt is much bigger. Was hoping to use a ratcheting wrench to adjust HOC.

Edit: perhaps this should spin by hand freely/easily, but mine does not - should it?


----------



## waltonereed

Tmank87 said:


> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> You should be able to go to Lowe's/Home Depot/Harbor Freight and buy an individual ratcheting wrench in 13mm and 17mm that way you have what you need for HOC adjustments too.
> 
> 
> 
> :bandit: :thumbup:
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Edit: just ordered both off Amazon, will be a game changer.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What is the size of this bolt circled below? Was hoping they was the 17mm but just got my wrench and the bolt is much bigger. Was hoping to use a ratcheting wrench to adjust HOC.
> 
> Edit: perhaps this should spin by hand freely/easily, but mine does not - should it?
Click to expand...

I believe officially it's 24mm?, but I have a deep 1" socket that I use to adjust it.

It shouldn't spin freely by hand, although mine sometimes does (probably user error).


----------



## Tmank87

@waltonereed Thanks :thumbup:


----------



## Mightyquinn

@waltonereed is correct, that is a 24mm and the HOC adjustment for the groomer is 22mm(which looks like you don't have). I bought combination ratcheting wrenches in 13mm,17mm,22mm and 24mm just for the Baroness so that they are handy to grab and use when needed.

I do have to disagree that they should be able to be adjusted by hand though. It makes changing the HOC so much easier. If for some reason they are hard to move by hand, you could spray the threads down with some Fluid Film or even some of the grease you use to lube it with and work that big nut up and down the threads with the wrench until it frees up.

Once it's adjusted properly and tightened down with the 13mm nuts on the side it shouldn't matter if the nuts on top loosen up a little. I will usually just snug them down by hand when I'm done making adjustments.


----------



## waltonereed

Mightyquinn said:


> @waltonereed is correct, that is a 24mm and the HOC adjustment for the groomer is 22mm(which looks like you don't have). I bought combination ratcheting wrenches in 13mm,17mm,22mm and 24mm just for the Baroness so that they are handy to grab and use when needed.
> 
> I do have to disagree that they should be able to be adjusted by hand though. It makes changing the HOC so much easier. If for some reason they are hard to move by hand, you could spray the threads down with some Fluid Film or even some of the grease you use to lube it with and work that big nut up and down the threads with the wrench until it frees up.
> 
> Once it's adjusted properly and tightened down with the 13mm nuts on the side it shouldn't matter if the nuts on top loosen up a little. I will usually just snug them down by hand when I'm done making adjustments.


That's good to know, thanks for clarifying :thumbup: Mine were adjustable, and I didn't know if that was right or not.


----------



## Tmank87

Thanks @Mightyquinn, I sort of had suspicion they should move freely. Need to get out there and get them lubed up.

You're right, no groomer. Wish I did, so pricey from the dealer though.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

I had my mower out for a scalp yesterday but the reel started to seize up. The reel is tough to spin by hand. I tried to adjust the reel-to-bedknife nut but loosening it removes the nut completely. Any ideas?

I called a local OPE shop that services machines and sharpens reels. They are unfamiliar with Baroness and don't want to sharpen it, especially since they are busy at the moment. The sharpening process isn't any different than any other reel like a TruCut or a Toro, right?


----------



## Mightyquinn

I doubt it needs sharpened. Make sure you have cleaned the mower off good and there isn't any debris jamming anything up. If I remember correctly, turning the bolt to the right should loosen the bedknife from the reel and you need to do it equally from both sides. Most likely the reason the reel was seizing up was because you had it set too tight and when scalping it will do that. Also make sure the reel and mower are in "neutral" so that nothing is engaged and the parking brake is off. You may need to play around with it a little bit to get it to free up or you are doing something wrong. Worst case you could just remove the bedknife from the bedknife bar and that should free things up quite a bit.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Well, I haven't sharpened it since I bought it used from that dealer in Minnesota, so it's been due for a sharpening. I wanted to get it sharpened anyway and have them put in a relief grind so I could backlap the reel in the future. I think they have some backlapping compound but I've never stepped in that shop before.

Since they don't want to service it during a busy season, I was thinking of removing the bedknife to inspect it and that could loosen it up. Is there any reason to adjust the nuts adjacent to the spring? I fiddled around with them since the cutter adjustment nut didn't seem to make a difference on the reel-to-bedknife contact.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Mightyquinn said:


> @waltonereed is correct, that is a 24mm and the HOC adjustment for the groomer is 22mm(which looks like you don't have). I bought combination ratcheting wrenches in 13mm,17mm,22mm and 24mm just for the Baroness so that they are handy to grab and use when needed.
> 
> I do have to disagree that they should be able to be adjusted by hand though. It makes changing the HOC so much easier. If for some reason they are hard to move by hand, you could spray the threads down with some Fluid Film or even some of the grease you use to lube it with and work that big nut up and down the threads with the wrench until it frees up.
> 
> Once it's adjusted properly and tightened down with the 13mm nuts on the side it shouldn't matter if the nuts on top loosen up a little. I will usually just snug them down by hand when I'm done making adjustments.


I've been fortunate with mine, once I loosen my lockdown nuts (17mm) I can adjust both my groomer and HOC by hand. Makes using my hands free Accugage really handy. Definitely need the wrench for Bedknife hehehe


----------



## Tmank87

Backyard Soldier said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> @waltonereed is correct, that is a 24mm and the HOC adjustment for the groomer is 22mm(which looks like you don't have). I bought combination ratcheting wrenches in 13mm,17mm,22mm and 24mm just for the Baroness so that they are handy to grab and use when needed.
> 
> I do have to disagree that they should be able to be adjusted by hand though. It makes changing the HOC so much easier. If for some reason they are hard to move by hand, you could spray the threads down with some Fluid Film or even some of the grease you use to lube it with and work that big nut up and down the threads with the wrench until it frees up.
> 
> Once it's adjusted properly and tightened down with the 13mm nuts on the side it shouldn't matter if the nuts on top loosen up a little. I will usually just snug them down by hand when I'm done making adjustments.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been fortunate with mine, once I loosen my lockdown nuts (17mm) I can adjust both my groomer and HOC by hand. Makes using my hands free Accugage really handy. Definitely need the wrench for Bedknife hehehe
Click to expand...

I assume you can pretty easily pop off that rubber cap to get to the 17mm bolt for adjusting the bedknife? I have never tried, but you must?


----------



## Backyard Soldier

I don't touch the black cap. I use an open wrench with mine. Not a Socket.


----------



## TulsaFan

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> Well, I haven't sharpened it since I bought it used from that dealer in Minnesota, so it's been due for a sharpening.


Those reels have super hardened steel. The average homeowner may never need to grind those reels unless you are running mulch & sticks through it. Baroness fairway mowers are going over 700 hours before needing a grind.

@Mightyquinn has mentioned to me that I would need to replace the bedknife to a higher cut bedknife before I would need a grind.

I bet you were trying to take off too much grass at a time when scalping. Did you change the cutting HOC directly to your scalp HOC? Or did you lower the HOC with multiple drops?


----------



## TulsaFan

Backyard Soldier said:


> I don't touch the black cap. I use an open wrench with mine. Not a Socket.


I believe those rubber caps just pull off and keeps water out.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

TulsaFan said:


> DuncanMcDonuts said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well, I haven't sharpened it since I bought it used from that dealer in Minnesota, so it's been due for a sharpening.
> 
> 
> 
> Those reels have super hardened steel. The average homeowner may never need to grind those reels unless you are running mulch & sticks through it. Baroness fairway mowers are going over 700 hours before needing a grind.
> 
> @Mightyquinn has mentioned to me that I would need to replace the bedknife to a higher cut bedknife before I would need a grind.
> 
> I bet you were trying to take off too much grass at a time when scalping. Did you change the cutting HOC directly to your scalp HOC? Or did you lower the HOC with multiple drops?
Click to expand...

I dropped it all the way down instead of slowly. I understand that can stall until I get some momentum, but I'm able to clear it usually. This time, I cleared the debris and the reel would not engage. It was so tight against the bedknife that I couldn't even manually spin it.

I started loosening the bolts on the bedknife base. That is the one on the side at the bottom near the bedknife, on the bottom near the bedknife, and on the side next to the reel-to-bedknife adjuster. Once loosening those, the reel would spin freely. I tightened them back up, not all the way, and could still manually spin the reel. It was a bit tight, so I started adjusting the reel-to-bedknife adjuster and got the right amount of contact for it to cut a paper receipt. I think we're back in business.

Thanks for the help, @TulsaFan and @Mightyquinn!

As to when to sharpen, should I even try to get it sharpened this year? The method is no different than a Toro GM1600, right?


----------



## TulsaFan

I would replace the bedknife before thinking about a grind.

The method is the same as any greens mower. However, Baroness steel keeps an edge longer and it is a huge advantage for the brand. You have to use really hard stones when grinding it.

Here's a quote from Graeme...

"When grinding the reel and bed knives, the normal Foley stones are okay. I recommend minimal contact when grinding, as the biggest mistake I see is removing of more material than actually needed. When replacing the bed knives, you will not need to grind the bedknife if you use Baroness original bed knives. The bed bar and the contact surface on the bed knives are CNC machined, and will ensure a accuracy that regular grinders cannot match."


----------



## Mightyquinn

I would like to add that when you are scalping there is NO need to have light contact and the mower is cutting paper. You are cutting off dead grass and stems so the quality of cut is not a factor and plus having a little more space between the reel and bedknife will reduce the chances of jamming the reel.

Also, when you are done with scalping, clean the mower really well, especially the air filter as that will get all kinds of dust packed into the foam filter part. After cleaning it well, adjust the reel to bedknife back to light contact and give it a good backlapping and you should be back to cutting paper and dialed in for when the green grass starts growing through.


----------



## waltonereed

Mightyquinn said:


> I would like to add that when you are scalping there is NO need to have light contact and the mower is cutting paper. You are cutting off dead grass and stems so the quality of cut is not a factor and plus having a little more space between the reel and bedknife will reduce the chances of jamming the reel.
> 
> Also, when you are done with scalping, clean the mower really well, especially the air filter as that will get all kinds of dust packed into the foam filter part. After cleaning it well, adjust the reel to bedknife back to light contact and give it a good backlapping and you should be back to cutting paper and dialed in for when the green grass starts growing through.


I second this. I did this last week, and if I hadn't adjusted to have space between the reel and bedknife, it would've taken me hours to do the job. I did a backlap yesterday and it's back to cutting paper. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## glinget

Mightyquinn said:


> @waltonereed is correct, that is a 24mm and the HOC adjustment for the groomer is 22mm(which looks like you don't have). I bought combination ratcheting wrenches in 13mm,17mm,22mm and 24mm just for the Baroness so that they are handy to grab and use when needed.
> 
> I do have to disagree that they should be able to be adjusted by hand though. It makes changing the HOC so much easier. If for some reason they are hard to move by hand, you could spray the threads down with some Fluid Film or even some of the grease you use to lube it with and work that big nut up and down the threads with the wrench until it frees up.
> 
> Once it's adjusted properly and tightened down with the 13mm nuts on the side it shouldn't matter if the nuts on top loosen up a little. I will usually just snug them down by hand when I'm done making adjustments.


Do you have a link to the set you bought? or proper length specs, etc? I am putting in an order ASAP as I just got my accugage for HOC and accugage for groomer.


----------



## Mightyquinn

If you are talking about the wrenches, I bought the 13mm and 17mm at Lowes, they are Kobalt brand but I had to buy the 22mm and 24mm from Amazon and they are Gearwrench. If I had to do it all over again I would go with Tekton If you sign up at the website you will get free shipping and 10% of your order you will get Tekton cash to use on the website. Or you could just go to Harbor Freight and see what they have.


----------



## glinget

Mightyquinn said:


> If you are talking about the wrenches, I bought the 13mm and 17mm at Lowes, they are Kobalt brand but I had to buy the 22mm and 24mm from Amazon and they are Gearwrench. If I had to do it all over again I would go with Tekton If you sign up at the website you will get free shipping and 10% of your order you will get Tekton cash to use on the website. Or you could just go to Harbor Freight and see what they have.


awesome very helpful. i just found these in stock at local HD. heading to pick up curbside and tinker with HOC tonight/tomorrow.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-24-mm-Metric-Ratcheting-Combination-Wrench-12-Point-HRW24MM/301175119


----------



## glinget

Mightyquinn said:


> If you are talking about the wrenches, I bought the 13mm and 17mm at Lowes, they are Kobalt brand but I had to buy the 22mm and 24mm from Amazon and they are Gearwrench. If I had to do it all over again I would go with Tekton If you sign up at the website you will get free shipping and 10% of your order you will get Tekton cash to use on the website. Or you could just go to Harbor Freight and see what they have.


Ok wrenches bought! HOC and Groomer has been adjusted. As expected, the HOC was not even on the left and right side (first time I have mowed with this mower). It looks like I was scalping around .530" to a semi level lawn. I have been cutting at that same HOC since I scalped a month ago and I feel like I keep scalping and it is not greening up much.

So today, I adjusted the HOC up to .620" and moved the groomer to .520" (per another thread from @Mightyquinn ) to see if I can get a little better green up and maybe slowly take it back down in May/June once the Zoysia takes off in the heat...any major issues with that plan?

Also...does anyone have a video or a step by step on BACKLAPPING a baroness? i have seen generic videos, and I bought a giant bucket of 120 grit and 180 grit backlapping compound based on another thread from @Ware

I feel like these are my two major questions right now!!! thanks all!


----------



## Mightyquinn

If your bedknife is in good condition you may not have to backlap that often and only need a slight adjustment of the reel to bedknife. I usually check my quality of cut with some 1" strips of paper every week or two, if everything is good just keep cutting if not, make a minor tweak here or there and keep mowing.

You will need a 13mm socket and a square drive adapter for a powered drill to backlap. To me, it's just something that you need to do and get a feel of what feels right. Start off with slow to medium speed on the drill and load the brush up with some compound and drag it across the blades as you are turning them with the drill in the forward position(the reel will be rotating counter clockwise). I think I described this process a few pages back in this thread.


----------



## waltonereed

glinget said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you are talking about the wrenches, I bought the 13mm and 17mm at Lowes, they are Kobalt brand but I had to buy the 22mm and 24mm from Amazon and they are Gearwrench. If I had to do it all over again I would go with Tekton If you sign up at the website you will get free shipping and 10% of your order you will get Tekton cash to use on the website. Or you could just go to Harbor Freight and see what they have.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok wrenches bought! HOC and Groomer has been adjusted. As expected, the HOC was not even on the left and right side (first time I have mowed with this mower). It looks like I was scalping around .530" to a semi level lawn. I have been cutting at that same HOC since I scalped a month ago and I feel like I keep scalping and it is not greening up much.
> 
> So today, I adjusted the HOC up to .620" and moved the groomer to .520" (per another thread from @Mightyquinn ) to see if I can get a little better green up and maybe slowly take it back down in May/June once the Zoysia takes off in the heat...any major issues with that plan?
> 
> Also...does anyone have a video or a step by step on BACKLAPPING a baroness? i have seen generic videos, and I bought a giant bucket of 120 grit and 180 grit backlapping compound based on another thread from @Ware
> 
> I feel like these are my two major questions right now!!! thanks all!
Click to expand...

I backlapped for first time based on instructions from @Mightyquinn. It's super easy. Hardest part was washing off the compound. I used the Loctite Clover 400 grit compound and it was super sticky. Had to use some Super Clean to get it all off.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

I got that 24mm Tekton wrench that @Mightyquinn recommended. I don't know why I didn't do it sooner. Using an adjustable wrench was so tedious with doing 1/2 turns and constantly mating the wrench to the nut. Maybe I felt fine doing it just a few times a year. For $20, it's worth it.


----------



## Patrck17

Hello all,

Just purchased a LM56GC used today. It is the unit shown in this ad:

https://www.needturfequipment.com/listing/for-sale/199802887/baroness-lm56gc-greens-and-tees-walking-mowers

Just making this post to see if anyone has any thoughts. I asked about any premature wear on the unit due to misuse. I was somewhat concerned about the previous owners properly maintaining the mower if they were trying to cut 4 inch grass with it. He responded that it is in good condition and will come sharpened with a sharp bedknife.

I messaged him back with info I found on this forum about the blade being hardened and just to emphasize to not bother grinding it if I didn't need it (which probably doesn't after 30h of use). Anyway he responded saying the guy who does the grinding will look and not mess with it if it doesn't need it.

So I have about 4500 square feet of Bermuda in the North Texas area. This is my first season with this lawn and right now it isn't in condition to require this mower. My goal is to get the grass into shape where I can keep it cut down to about .75-.8 inches. I will probably not need to use it for a while. I will still get it cleaned up and take some pictures once I get it though!

Just saying hey really. Any advice is welcome.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Welcome to TLF!!!

I'm sure if you read through this whole thread you will have most of your questions answered but if not don't hesitate to ask questions as we are all here to help. You have a fine machine and if it only has 30 hrs on it, you basically have a brand new machine and it should be in great shape.


----------



## Jbird95

@TulsaFan @Mightyquinn 
Accu gage men- do you mind sharing what bar length y'all selected? Also, assuming same size that fits LM56 will also fit a LM66? Thank you


----------



## Mightyquinn

I bought the standard 18" with the hands free attachment.


----------



## waltonereed

Standard length with hands-free option and gage-guard (just in case).


----------



## Patrck17

Hey guys, so my mower is en route. Not scheduled for delivery but it says Monday will be the earliest. I am seeking some guidance regarding what I need to do before attempting to use the mower. The mower was advertised as only 30 hours. Who knows if that is true. @TulsaFan pointed out that the unit had an aftermarket tachometer on it, which is somewhat suspicious but who knows.

The seller said that the blades looked good so they did not grind them, he said "little bit of film of rusty color but they feel sharp, and sound great. Set at .140 and ran for 5minutes, runs great"

I figure I would at very least need to add grease. I'll replace the air filter on the motor as well.

This is just a sanity check to see if there is anything else I should worry about.



Thanks!


----------



## Tmank87

Patrck17 said:


> Hey guys, so my mower is en route. Not scheduled for delivery but it says Monday will be the earliest. I am seeking some guidance regarding what I need to do before attempting to use the mower. The mower was advertised as only 30 hours. Who knows if that is true. @TulsaFan pointed out that the unit had an aftermarket tachometer on it, which is somewhat suspicious but who knows.
> 
> The seller said that the blades looked good so they did not grind them, he said "little bit of film of rusty color but they feel sharp, and sound great. Set at .140 and ran for 5minutes, runs great"
> 
> I figure I would at very least need to add grease. I'll replace the air filter on the motor as well.
> 
> This is just a sanity check to see if there is anything else I should worry about.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Change the oil, air filter, spark plug. Grease the zerks. Give it a pressure wash/rinse. Set the HOC and the reel to bed knife. Enjoy!


----------



## TulsaFan

Just my opinion, but I would never use a power washer on a greens mower.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5J_SSzz6Jw


----------



## Mightyquinn

I use a pressure washer on mine all the time. I have an electric one that I have just to wash my cars with so if it's safe enough for the paint on the cars I figure it's safe enough for the mower. Also as long as it is greased well and often you shouldn't have too much to worry about.

Other than that just follow the recommendations of the others here and you will be fine. Also you may want spray down the HOC adjustment screws with some Fluid Film or PB Blaster or something similar before trying to adjust them.


----------



## Patrck17

Sounds like we are all on the same page. I have a tune up kit for the Honda so will do that. Probably less the carb. Hold onto that for later.

I'll wash it down but probably won't break out the pressure washer yet. Also will grease the zerks.


----------



## Jbird95

@TulsaFan A bit embarrassed I have to ask but here goes. I made my 1st pass ever today with my Baroness. Everything works well. However, I'm confused what function the throttle serves as I never engaged it and the mower putted me right along. Does it simply control rear drum speed?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Jbird95 said:


> @TulsaFan A bit embarrassed I have to ask but here goes. I made my 1st pass ever today with my Baroness. Everything works well. However, I'm confused what function the throttle serves as I never engaged it and the mower putted me right along. Does it simply control rear drum speed?


Yes, basically. I do it the other way and have the throttle engaged and feather the clutch to keep a good pace. I think until you get comfortable with it, what you are doing is just fine and gradually push the machines limits to where you are comfortable.


----------



## Jbird95

@Mightyquinn roger that MQ- thank you


----------



## Patrck17

Baroness arrives tomorrow. The freight company kept slipping the delivery date so
I decided I'd just go pick it up. I don't have a truck but I figure I could put it in the trunk to get it home. When I saw the thing I realized there was no way they was going to happen. A lot bigger than I thought. They will drop it off tomorrow though and I can get an idea of the shape it is in.


----------



## Patrck17

Also my unit didn't come with the grass catcher assembly. I will also be looking for front attachments. If anyone has any recommendations to get my hands on them used I'd appreciate it. Otherwise I'll probably just go through a dealer.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Patrck17 said:


> Also my unit didn't come with the grass catcher assembly. I will also be looking for front attachments. If anyone has any recommendations to get my hands on them used I'd appreciate it. Otherwise I'll probably just go through a dealer.


That grass catcher is pretty expensive just FYI, last time I checked it was $383 just for the bucket for the IGC(Independent Grass Catcher) I don't know how much the direct fit one is. Once you get it and post some pictures we should be able to determine which one you have.


----------



## Patrck17

Thanks @Mightyquinn . Will do. I am going to be posting a triage post tomorrow for sure just to get a handle on where I stand with the mower.

Google hasn't been my friend with used baroness parts, but I've stumbled across plenty of post here where people have been able to get used parts a little cheaper. So just hoping to weigh on the experience.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

I have an IGCA but honestly, it doesn't work that great. The only time I ever want to bag would be for a scalp for the first mow of the season. But the reel never throws the clippings far enough into the basket, so it always clumps up on the groomer. I end up taking it off.


----------



## Patrck17

The baroness has arrived. More to come.


----------



## Mightyquinn

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> I have an IGCA but honestly, it doesn't work that great. The only time I ever want to bag would be for a scalp for the first mow of the season. But the reel never throws the clippings far enough into the basket, so it always clumps up on the groomer. I end up taking it off.


Have you tried adjusting the "chute" up or down to see if that helps with the clippings getting thrown into the basket? I know when you are scalping the clippings are a little liter so they don't get thrown into the basket as easily. I have noticed when scalping that having the lawn slightly damp helps a lot with getting all the clippings.


----------



## Patrck17

@Mightyquinn and @TulsaFan looking at you guys to help me with a couple newbie questions.

So first off. I'm pretty sure this lady has had more than 30hours. Maybe 30 on the engine rebuild. Not a huge deal seems
To be in good shape but is there any way to identify the born on date on the chassis?

Secondly. I more or less winged it adjusting the height of cut. I think I got it mostly back into shape but I'd like to try to re calibrate what I may have messed up.

I adjusted the two nuts in the front of the mower. Seem to be 17mm? They had a direct influence on the way the reel spins. I got it to where it cute paper and spins fine but I just want to make sure I didn't Bork it up. Also they are more or less hand tight and I don't think that will stick. Is there a way to get them tightened down?

Lastly. This thing gets up and goes. Is there a way to reel without having to book it so fast?


----------



## Patrck17

It's these adjustment nuts I'm talking about.


----------



## Patrck17

Hey guys I'm looking to modify my accu gage to be able to set the height of the groomer. I can drill and tap the steel plate easy enough. But I am wondering if anyone has the dimensions of the spacing between bed knife and groomer? Or a recommendation on how to measure accurately? It don't know if it have the right tools to correctly make the measurement.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Patrck17 said:


> It's these adjustment nuts I'm talking about.


These are for the Bedknife to reel contact adjustments


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Patrck17 said:


> Hey guys I'm looking to modify my accu gage to be able to set the height of the groomer. I can drill and tap the steel plate easy enough. But I am wondering if anyone has the dimensions of the spacing between bed knife and groomer? Or a recommendation on how to measure accurately? It don't know if it have the right tools to correctly make the measurement.


I usually follow MQ's best practices of going half the height of my HoC for the groomer. I don't use a gauge for my groomer myself….I know some are OCD and do,,,,I use a spacing gage kit to sort of give me an idea.


----------



## Patrck17

Backyard Soldier said:


> Patrck17 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys I'm looking to modify my accu gage to be able to set the height of the groomer. I can drill and tap the steel plate easy enough. But I am wondering if anyone has the dimensions of the spacing between bed knife and groomer? Or a recommendation on how to measure accurately? It don't know if it have the right tools to correctly make the measurement.
> 
> 
> 
> I usually follow MQ's best practices of going half the height of my HoC for the groomer. I don't use a gauge for my groomer myself….I know some are OCD and do,,,,I use a spacing gage kit to sort of give me an idea.
Click to expand...

Makes sense @Backyard Soldier. I am going to go ahead and figure out how to modify the accugage. I'll post the 101 once I do.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Patrck17 said:


> Backyard Soldier said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patrck17 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys I'm looking to modify my accu gage to be able to set the height of the groomer. I can drill and tap the steel plate easy enough. But I am wondering if anyone has the dimensions of the spacing between bed knife and groomer? Or a recommendation on how to measure accurately? It don't know if it have the right tools to correctly make the measurement.
> 
> 
> 
> I usually follow MQ's best practices of going half the height of my HoC for the groomer. I don't use a gauge for my groomer myself….I know some are OCD and do,,,,I use a spacing gage kit to sort of give me an idea.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Makes sense @Backyard Soldier. I am going to go ahead and figure out how to modify the accugage. I'll post the 101 once I do.
Click to expand...

Good luck with that, I would just buy the Accu-gauge Groomer tool and be done with it instead of possibly messing up my brand new accu-gauge but to each his own


----------



## Patrck17

Okay have some updates from the modification of the Accu Gage. So I set up the gauge the same way you do to set the HOC and more or less eyeballed the lowest position on the groomer. Marked the gage plate, drilled and tapped. Not a whole lot to it.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Patrck17 said:


> Okay have some updates from the modification of the Accu Gage. So I set up the gauge the same way you do to set the HOC and more or less eyeballed the lowest position on the groomer. Marked the gage plate, drilled and tapped. Not a whole lot to it.


Couldn't you just find some $5 aluminum segment at Lowe's an do this to it instead of your $150 accu gage? You've given me quite the idea now….thanks for the R&D. 😂 😉


----------



## Patrck17

@Backyard Soldier Haha, well damn that would have been a good idea.


----------



## Patrck17

Anyone know the material of the black front roller? Is it painted steel or something else?


----------



## TulsaFan

Patrck17 said:


> Anyone know the material of the black front roller? Is it painted steel or something else?


Painted steel.


----------



## Patrck17

So I just realized my baroness came equipped with the dethatcher and not the groomer. I imagine this is the the most commonly used attachment, so I will be on the lookout for one of those.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Patrck17 said:


> So I just realized my baroness came equipped with the dethatcher and not the groomer. I imagine this is the the most commonly used attachment, so I will be on the lookout for one of those.


Yes, based on your crate picture, that is the DeTacher. The Groomer has closer and thinner aligned of those thines. I use both. I keep the groomer on 90% of the time but do use the detacher every 6-8 weeks to help with any graining I get.


----------



## Patrck17

Backyard Soldier said:


> Patrck17 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I just realized my baroness came equipped with the dethatcher and not the groomer. I imagine this is the the most commonly used attachment, so I will be on the lookout for one of those.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, based on your crate picture, that is the DeTacher. The Groomer has closer and thinner aligned of those thines. I use both. I keep the groomer on 90% of the time but do use the detacher every 6-8 weeks to help with any graining I get.
Click to expand...

As a sanity check how low do you set the dethatcher?


----------



## TulsaFan

Patrck17 said:


> So I just realized my baroness came equipped with the dethatcher and not the groomer. I imagine this is the the most commonly used attachment, so I will be on the lookout for one of those.


If you can't find a used groomer, you could always remove the (39) thicker 1.0mm dethatcher blades and swap them out with (78) thinner 0.5mm groomer blades. You will need to make sure you have the right amount of blades, collars and washers from the parts catalog. It would be much cheaper than buying a new groomer.

Personally, I would just run what you have for now. I started with only a groomer and later hunted down a dethatcher and brush accessory.


----------



## Patrck17

TulsaFan said:


> Patrck17 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I just realized my baroness came equipped with the dethatcher and not the groomer. I imagine this is the the most commonly used attachment, so I will be on the lookout for one of those.
> 
> 
> 
> If you can't find a used groomer, you could always remove the (39) thicker 1.0mm dethatcher blades and swap them out with (78) thinner 0.5mm groomer blades. You will need to make sure you have the right amount of blades, collars and washers from the parts catalog. It would be much cheaper than buying a new groomer.
> 
> Personally, I would just run what you have for now. I started with only a groomer and later hunted down a dethatcher and brush accessory.
Click to expand...

That is a decent idea. I will see what they will quote me for those.


----------



## TulsaFan

Patrck17 said:


> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patrck17 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I just realized my baroness came equipped with the dethatcher and not the groomer. I imagine this is the the most commonly used attachment, so I will be on the lookout for one of those.
> 
> 
> 
> If you can't find a used groomer, you could always remove the (39) thicker 1.0mm dethatcher blades and swap them out with (78) thinner 0.5mm groomer blades. You will need to make sure you have the right amount of blades, collars and washers from the parts catalog. It would be much cheaper than buying a new groomer.
> 
> Personally, I would just run what you have for now. I started with only a groomer and later hunted down a dethatcher and brush accessory.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That is a decent idea. I will see what they will quote me for those.
Click to expand...

A year ago, they cost me $2.62 each for some replacements. The dog grabbed a giant piece of bark out of a flowerbed and left it on the lawn for me! :lol:


----------



## Backyard Soldier

TulsaFan said:


> Patrck17 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> If you can't find a used groomer, you could always remove the (39) thicker 1.0mm dethatcher blades and swap them out with (78) thinner 0.5mm groomer blades. You will need to make sure you have the right amount of blades, collars and washers from the parts catalog. It would be much cheaper than buying a new groomer.
> 
> Personally, I would just run what you have for now. I started with only a groomer and later hunted down a dethatcher and brush accessory.
> 
> 
> 
> That is a decent idea. I will see what they will quote me for those.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> A year ago, they cost me $2.62 each for some replacements. The dog grabbed a giant piece of bark out of a flowerbed and left it on the lawn for me! :lol:
Click to expand...

Parts for these beats are no joke. I just got all my bolts in to replace the HOC and Groomer heights


----------



## Patrck17

What did that run @Backyard Soldier. I think I am in for a big bill from the baroness dealer soon. Unless I can maintenance the bedknife/reel myself I am compelled to replace them with brand new ones. I figure I will be replacing any bearings and seals while I am in there. I don't really have any gauge as to how sharp either are supposed to be. It will cut paper when I set it and the grass looks to be clean cut, but it isn't exactly sharp to the touch. Especially the bedknife. I guess backlapping is the first step though.


----------



## TulsaFan

Patrck17 said:


> What did that run @Backyard Soldier. I think I am in for a big bill from the baroness dealer soon. Unless I can maintenance the bedknife/reel myself I am compelled to replace them with brand new ones. I figure I will be replacing any bearings and seals while I am in there. I don't really have any gauge as to how sharp either are supposed to be. It will cut paper when I set it and the grass looks to be clean cut, but it isn't exactly sharp to the touch. Especially the bedknife. I guess backlapping is the first step though.


If it has 30 hours and cuts paper, you probably don't need anything other than back lapping it...if that. Ignore all the advice you see on TLF about getting a grind every season. Baroness uses super hardened reels. We laugh at those people with their excessive grinding costs! 

However, you should start looking for a local golf course head mechanic whose willing to do side work. See if they have a Foley grinder. It uses a smaller stone which helps in getting the relief angle. You may have to check with a few of them. Try to find a guy in his 30's since you may only use him once every 10 years or so.


----------



## Mightyquinn

What grit backlapping compound are you using? If it's cutting paper you are good. If it ever stops cutting paper and you can't get it back with a backlap and some minor adjustments most likely all you will need is a new bedknife which is fairly easy to do.

I have replaced a reel on a Baroness before and it's fairly straightforward but is rarely needed.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Patrck17 said:


> What did that run @Backyard Soldier. I think I am in for a big bill from the baroness dealer soon. Unless I can maintenance the bedknife/reel myself I am compelled to replace them with brand new ones. I figure I will be replacing any bearings and seals while I am in there. I don't really have any gauge as to how sharp either are supposed to be. It will cut paper when I set it and the grass looks to be clean cut, but it isn't exactly sharp to the touch. Especially the bedknife. I guess backlapping is the first step though.


The M8-55 Bolts were $1.25ea. 
The M8-Nuts were $2.18ea.

got me two full sets so I can have backups next time.

Now the bolts that were expensive were the Upright Roller Adjustment Bolts. They run a pretty penny ea @ $31. I wa going to get Teo full sets of all the upright bolts and nuts but had to pass. I didn't need them, just wanted to have spare backups.


----------



## Tmank87

Backyard Soldier said:


> Patrck17 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What did that run @Backyard Soldier. I think I am in for a big bill from the baroness dealer soon. Unless I can maintenance the bedknife/reel myself I am compelled to replace them with brand new ones. I figure I will be replacing any bearings and seals while I am in there. I don't really have any gauge as to how sharp either are supposed to be. It will cut paper when I set it and the grass looks to be clean cut, but it isn't exactly sharp to the touch. Especially the bedknife. I guess backlapping is the first step though.
> 
> 
> 
> The M8-55 Bolts were $1.25ea.
> The M8-Nuts were $2.18ea.
> 
> got me two full sets so I can have backups next time.
> 
> Now the bolts that were expensive were the Upright Roller Adjustment Bolts. They run a pretty penny ea @ $31. I wa going to get Teo full sets of all the upright bolts and nuts but had to pass. I didn't need them, just wanted to have spare backups.
Click to expand...

Did you buy the bolts for the upright roller from Baroness or separately? If the latter, mind linking what/where you procured?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Try going here McMaster-Carr. This is a one stop shop for ANYTHING you could possibly need or want. The shipping is very fast but a little on the pricey side. I too have bought hardware for the Baroness from here. Unless it's a specialty bolt or nut you can most likely find it at McMaster.


----------



## Backyard Soldier

Tmank87 said:


> Backyard Soldier said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Patrck17 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What did that run @Backyard Soldier. I think I am in for a big bill from the baroness dealer soon. Unless I can maintenance the bedknife/reel myself I am compelled to replace them with brand new ones. I figure I will be replacing any bearings and seals while I am in there. I don't really have any gauge as to how sharp either are supposed to be. It will cut paper when I set it and the grass looks to be clean cut, but it isn't exactly sharp to the touch. Especially the bedknife. I guess backlapping is the first step though.
> 
> 
> 
> The M8-55 Bolts were $1.25ea.
> The M8-Nuts were $2.18ea.
> 
> got me two full sets so I can have backups next time.
> 
> Now the bolts that were expensive were the Upright Roller Adjustment Bolts. They run a pretty penny ea @ $31. I wa going to get Teo full sets of all the upright bolts and nuts but had to pass. I didn't need them, just wanted to have spare backups.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Did you buy the bolts for the upright roller from Baroness or separately? If the latter, mind linking what/where you procured?
Click to expand...

I bought everything from Baroness Through Eastern Turf in NC


----------



## Patrck17

I'll also endorse McMaster-Carr. I've bought through them for plenty of projects. It is like a candy store. Can't go wrong with OEM though. But it will cost you.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I would rather go with McMaster than OEM as it's the same quality for cheaper most likely. Obviously you would need to compare prices.


----------



## Patrck17

One of the benefits of a product like baroness is that so many of the various fasteners are off the shelf. As residential users it would be wise to avoid OEM prices where you can.


----------



## Patrck17

Okay so I did a backlapping today and I have two questions. One is how free should the reel roll when properly set against the bed knife. Not for the sake of backlapp just for general mowing. I know that isn't necessarily a baroness question and just a general reel mower question.

The other is regarding the screws that adjust the bed knife height. So after backlapping. It seems that when I adjust it to the sound and feel I felt was appropriate. That the bolts were still able
To be adjusted by hand. Which seems too loose. I'm wondering if either i need to tighten the spring or if I am too loose with the bed knife.


----------



## Mightyquinn

You should be able to rotate the reel with your finger and the reel and bedknife should be making a very light metal to metal contact. It should sound like scissors.

I would need to read over the instruction manual again but you might need to tighten the side bolt on the spring bolt. If you have a caliper you can easily measure the spring which I think should be around 50mm.


----------



## Patrck17

Thanks for the response @Mightyquinn. I can confirm the 50mm. I'll need to buy a caliper to check it though. Also good to hear about the tension. That is how I've been running it.


----------



## Mightyquinn

As long as you are around 50mm you should be good give or take a couple of mm's. You may need to tighten the Fulcrum Seat Bolt some more to tighten things up a bit. Look at pages 6-12 and 6-13 in the owners manual to get an idea.


----------



## Patrck17

Debating on buying another used baroness to get the groomer, and grass catcher. Thinking about reselling or parting out the rest of the baroness. Asking for anyone's judgement.

My guess is that the market for used parts is slim to nil. To where parting it out would be a poor and not effective choice.

Alternatively I could rebuild it as a fun project. Still don't think it is going to be worth the effort.

Ultimately I want that groomer and catcher. Just not if it makes more sense to buy new. Buy a used at 1750 or wait to see if one turns up. Just fishing for opinions.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I don't really think you need the groomer right now, I could possibly understand you needing/wanting the grass catcher. Yes, it would be nice to have a second mower as a back up but you barely got yours and haven't really used it a whole lot yet. Sounds like you need to pump your brakes and take a breath. Use your mower for awhile and see what you like and don't like about it and see if you even need a grass catcher or not. Having the grass catcher on there makes the mower a lot bigger and is harder to get into tight areas. What kind of grass catcher is your mower set up for? I don't think you ever posted any pictures of the new mower other than a couple close ups.


----------



## Patrck17

Thanks for the response @Mightyquinn . I was actually more interested in the groomer the. The catcher. It just seems like the right tool for the job. Lol. But ya makes more sense to just spend the cash on that vs a whole mower. Can you comment on why I don't need it ? I suspect it is because my grass is so thin.

I see myself using the catcher only in scalping scenarios and you are right the mower is already bad in tight spaces. I'm thinking about cutting off the axles. If I can come up with a easy way to adjust HOC I plan to.

Again thanks for the feedback. I'll probably slow the roll and keep my ear to ground for a groomer.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I still wouldn't spend the money on the groomer right now unless you come by a good deal on one. You are just getting your feet wet reel mowing. I've been experimenting with the groomer since I got the mower back in 2014 and I still haven't gotten 100% figured out yet  You can have an amazing lawn with the mower you have just take some time and learn the mower first.

Yes, the groomer can help stand some of the grass blades up so you get a cleaner cut but that is generally with very thick turf. You can probably get similar results with the dethatcher blades or do what @TulsaFan suggested and just buy the groomer blades and replace the dethatcher blades, it's a much cheaper option and not very hard to do. I just think you are putting the cart before the horse is all and as far as I know you are new to the whole lawn care game so you need to crawl, walk and run and not go into a dead sprint  As you go down this hole of lawn care you will learn that patience is a virtue and will serve you well. I think lawn care is the epitome of delayed gratification.


----------



## zeus201

Noticed last few cuts after cut quality has diminished a bit, leaving many grass blades looking like they were ripped / torn rather than cut cleanly. Also, grass blades which were cut "cleanly" looked still looked a bit tattered and giving lawn a "brown" cast.

Mower was still cutting paper and spinning freely, but I did do a backlap with 600 grit and then readjusted reel to bedknife so it was cutting paper again. In the end, still noticing blades are not being as cut nicely as it used to. Inspected reel and bedknife and no issues there.

I am pretty conservative with reel to bedknife contact and it have setup a bit "looser". Wondering if I should tighten the contact, try backlapping with 400 grit, or do both?


----------



## Mightyquinn

I thought I went above and beyond with 400 grit so I think having 600 grit isn't hurting anything. Does the reel sound like a pair of scissors when you rotate it? Are you cutting too much off at once? If you are cutting paper it should be cutting the grass just fine.


----------



## zeus201

I felt like 400 grit would have been too much. I don't think 600 grit did much of anything other a light polish hah. I may still try 400 grit later this season.

It does, but maybe I could tighten it bit so it sounds a bit more like scissors. Although, I am wondering if I am cutting a bit too much between cuts. The rye mono stand seems to be more affected by poor cut quality as its growth rate is crazy compared to KBG mono.


----------



## Tmank87

I'm a bit perplexed. My Baroness seems to be leaving high strips on the outside edge of the reel the last few cuts. Initially I thought the front roller may have moved during my first cut and wasn't even across. I made sure to readjust, but still seems to be happening. It's almost like I'm just missing a small strip (I'm not).

The reel is cutting paper across the bedknife, so I'm not sure what the issue is.

This is the first season I am cutting as low as I am (5/8") so perhaps at this height the lack of being level (the lawn) is just exacerbated?

Hoping TLF infinite wisdom has seen this before, it's starting to frustrate me a bit. Pic below, but a bit tough to tell.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Are you overlapping enough on your passes? Are you using the groomer?


----------



## Tmank87

Mightyquinn said:


> Are you overlapping enough on your passes? Are you using the groomer?


I think so, basically doing the same thing I've done for last 2 seasons. No groomer.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I can't see what you are talking about in the picture. Maybe if you can take one that shows it better we can help.


----------



## Tmank87

Mightyquinn said:


> I can't see what you are talking about in the picture. Maybe if you can take one that shows it better we can help.


Tough to capture but see below. It's like I'm missing half an inch on the outside edge of the reel.


----------



## jakemauldin

Alright guys I need some help determining the year of this LM56GA. And the value of it? I do not believe this thing only has 18 hours. But it seems like a decent Reel. I'm just not too familiar with going rates of Baroness.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I think it's around a 2008 like mine. Are you buying or selling?


----------



## jakemauldin

Buying


----------



## jakemauldin

Mightyquinn said:


> I think it's around a 2008 like mine. Are you buying or selling?


Buying


----------



## Mightyquinn

That's from another member here on TLF? Those Baroness stickers were a one time run here by someone, I don't remember exactly who it was though but it is in this thread somewhere. That hour meter probably isn't 100% correct and was added after he purchased it, so I would guess that's how many hours he put on it.


----------



## jakemauldin

Mightyquinn said:


> That's from another member here on TLF? Those Baroness stickers were a one time run here by someone, I don't remember exactly who it was though but it is in this thread somewhere. That hour meter probably isn't 100% correct and was added after he purchased it, so I would guess that's how many hours he put on it.


Kind of what I was thinking


----------



## TulsaFan

jakemauldin said:


> Alright guys I need some help determining the year of this LM56GA. And the value of it? I do not believe this thing only has 18 hours. But it seems like a decent Reel. I'm just not too familiar with going rates of Baroness.


My guess...it's a 2011 from MN that was on a four year lease before it was sold.

Do I think it's worth $2,600? It has a Honda engine, groomer, dethatcher, and grass basket. Somebody near DFW area will probably buy it near the ask price. Most of the Big 3 greens mowers in Tulsa sell at or above $1,500. The days of finding a pile of used Baroness mowers for cheap is probably long gone. The bigger the cult following the more you will expect to pay.

If I sold my Baroness, I would probably sell it for $3k or more. It has 29 hours of use.


----------



## Patrck17

Just hacked off my travel wheel axles and I would recommend. I left more room on the left side so that I didn't catch things on the reel axle. Turned around the wheel gear and moved it out so that it is a little more gentle if or when it catches.


----------



## Patrck17

@jakemauldin

I paid a little less than that for mine and I venture it is older than yours. That being said one of the dealers on baronesses website quoted me 1750 a few days ago for used baronesses. They looked fine but no doubt they had been used for course mowing. So likely hundreds of hours. Either way unless you prowl the net for a long time and or get really lucky I think the price is in the ball park. I think the used market for these types of mowers is not
Getting smaller so 'reel' steals (LOL) that others have got may be less common. And certainly for a baroness cause there seem to be less or
Them in the states.


----------



## Patrck17

By the way how much are these new?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Patrck17 said:


> By the way how much are these new?


$8,000-$10,000


----------



## Jbird95

Could someone be kind enough to post a pic of the rear stand and how it is attached? I'm particularly interested in how the spring is set up. Thank you


----------



## Mightyquinn




----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

While on the subject of the kickstand, anyone else struggle with the left bolt and nut? If I have it too tight, the kickstand cannot flip down. If it's too loose, the nut and washer gets loose. I've lost two OEM nut/bolt/washer combinations, and been lucky to find my generic nut/washer replacements twice after a mow. I can't seem to find a good tightness that allows the kickstand to work.


----------



## Mightyquinn

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> While on the subject of the kickstand, anyone else struggle with the left bolt and nut? If I have it too tight, the kickstand cannot flip down. If it's too loose, the nut and washer gets loose. I've lost two OEM nut/bolt/washer combinations, and been lucky to find my generic nut/washer replacements twice after a mow. I can't seem to find a good tightness that allows the kickstand to work.


I just looked at mine and I can't see anything special about them but have you tried using a lock nut or maybe some low strength Lock-Tight? I have never had an issue with them but I have never messed with those bolts either.


----------



## Jbird95

Thank you MQ


----------



## zeus201

Still struggling with poor cut quality, primarily with the Pangea rye mono. Mazama KBG doesn't seem to be affected to much but grass tips here and there do look a little brown after cut.

I did backlap with Clover 400 grit and was hoping that'd alleviate majority of the cut quality. Might have helped some and I thought about doing it again.

Reel and bedknife don't have any damage to them and look to be in good condition. Everything is greased and still cuts paper really nicely with minimal contact.

Kind of at a loss on what else to try outside of a grind and relief cut. Thought about buying an all new bedknife, backlapping, and seeing anything changes.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Is it cutting a single piece of paper on the left, middle and right on all 11 blades? I know it sound kind of tedious but this way you can see where your issue might be. I use 1" strips of printer paper to test for sharpness. I just use scrap paper from my wife's work to make them and store them in a ziplock bag.


----------



## zeus201

Mightyquinn said:


> Is it cutting a single piece of paper on the left, middle and right on all 11 blades? I know it sound kind of tedious but this way you can see where your issue might be. I use 1" strips of printer paper to test for sharpness. I just use scrap paper from my wife's work to make them and store them in a ziplock bag.


I know I've checked a few blades across the whole cutting width and looked good. But, I'll check all 11 blades across the whole way and report back.


----------



## zeus201

Went through and checked each blade. Each blade did cut from end to end and middle, but I did notice the paper wasn't cleanly cut like scissors for majority of the blades. Almost looked like paper was tattered....

Maybe backlap again and be a bit more aggressive, or something greater?


----------



## Mightyquinn

I think you may be almost there. I've noticed with the 400 grit you need to backlap it a little longer. Just make sure your reel to bedknife are set good too before and after the backlap as that can effect the cut quality some. Also make sure you have lubed your reel bearings recently too as that can have a small effect on things.

If this doesn't get the job done, you might just need a new bedknife to get things dialed in again. How old is the bedknife on the mower?


----------



## zeus201

Mightyquinn said:


> If this doesn't get the job done, you might just need a new bedknife to get things dialed in again. How old is the bedknife on the mower?


I'm fairly positive bedknife is still the original one. I"ll have to double check MFG date.


----------



## Mightyquinn

If backlapping and minor reel adjustments do not fix it then most likely you will need a new bedknife which should fix the issue. You could also reface the bedknife which might give you some more time.


----------



## Patrck17

@TulsaFan @Mightyquinn

Still going through the growing pains with my baroness it seems. The issue this time is that the mower gets very loud when in use. Originally I thought this was because of the nicked reel blade, which it was partially, but now there is something else still wrong.

If I run the mower in travel on /off with or without clutch engaged and throttle the mower sounds pretty normal.

It only occurs when the mower reel is on. Seems to be worse with FOC set to high. When I engage the clutch (either in the yard or with it on the stand) the mower gets much louder. It is a knocking sound that seems to correspond to the speed of the motor. I can't really tell if it is coming from the motor itself or something else.

So I figure it may have to do with the transmission for the reel, or maybe the motor starts to struggle when it is under heavier load? I assume the load is significantly higher with the reel engaged.

Any thoughts are welcome.


----------



## Mightyquinn

The reel is still hitting the bedknife or you have it adjusted too tight. Try backing the reel off the bedknife and see if the sound is still there.


----------



## Patrck17

Mightyquinn said:


> The reel is still hitting the bedknife or you have it adjusted too tight. Try backing the reel off the bedknife and see if the sound is still there.


I'll go check on this. I did back the bed knife off to where it is rolling free. But will check. I'll try to get a video with decent sound. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## TulsaFan

Patrck17 said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> The reel is still hitting the bedknife or you have it adjusted too tight. Try backing the reel off the bedknife and see if the sound is still there.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll go check on this. I did back the bed knife off to where it is rolling free. But will check. I'll try to get a video with decent sound. Thanks for the reply.
Click to expand...

If it's still making a loud noise after backing off your bedknife to reel, your reel bearings may have failed. Have you greased them?


----------



## zeus201

Mightyquinn said:


> If backlapping and minor reel adjustments do not fix it then most likely you will need a new bedknife which should fix the issue. You could also reface the bedknife which might give you some more time.


Ended up emailing Baroness for replacement bedknife. I backlapped again last, readjusted reel, and it might have had some marginal improvement. I might try refacing the bedknife with a bastard file to get buy until I get a replacement knife.

Random question...how sharp should the reel be? Mine feels "ok", but it isn't like it'd cut me if I ran my finger across it.


----------



## Tmank87

zeus201 said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> If backlapping and minor reel adjustments do not fix it then most likely you will need a new bedknife which should fix the issue. You could also reface the bedknife which might give you some more time.
> 
> 
> 
> Ended up emailing Baroness for replacement bedknife. I backlapped again last, readjusted reel, and it might have had some marginal improvement. I might try refacing the bedknife with a bastard file to get buy until I get a replacement knife.
> 
> Random question...how sharp should the reel be? Mine feels "ok", but it isn't like it'd cut me if I ran my finger across it.
Click to expand...

What part number did you end up ordering and what'd it end up costing? Been thinking about picking up a spare.


----------



## zeus201

Tmank87 said:


> What part number did you end up ordering and what'd it end up costing? Been thinking about picking up a spare.


I'll let you know once they get back to me, but this is what I asked for:

Part #: K2511000280 
Part Name: Bedknife (Bottom Blade), 2.0


----------



## Tmank87

zeus201 said:


> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What part number did you end up ordering and what'd it end up costing? Been thinking about picking up a spare.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll let you know once they get back to me, but this is what I asked for:
> 
> Part #: K2511000280
> Part Name: Bedknife (Bottom Blade), 2.0
Click to expand...

 :thumbup:


----------



## Patrck17

Okay I made a video.

https://youtu.be/ETRNnrwyDIk

I know it isn't easy to tell what is going on. So here is a quick description.

1. First rev is with reel on. I just engage clutch. 
2. Switch to reel off and engage clutch. 
3. Back to. Reel on. I engage clutch and then throttle. It sounds like the knocking goes away when I throttle up. Seems related to the engine struggling to make power.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Check your groomer blades and make sure none of them are bent or turn it off and see if it still makes the sound. With the mower off you should be able to turn the reel by hand and see where the sound is coming from.


----------



## Patrck17

Mightyquinn said:


> Check your groomer blades and make sure none of them are bent or turn it off and see if it still makes the sound. With the mower off you should be able to turn the reel by hand and see where the sound is coming from.


Thanks MQ. I don't think that the problem is the groomer or reel at this point. When I attach my drill and rotate the blade I can't get it to make the noise. Starting to seem like a GX120 problem rather than a baroness issue


----------



## Mightyquinn

Does it make that sound without anything engaged?


----------



## Patrck17

Ya it only happens when the reel is engaged doesn't matter if the groomer is on or not. With the travel on I can rev it and it will spin the drum and sounds normal. Turn the reel on and let off the clutch and makes the noise. If in rev the motor it does seem to go away.


----------



## Mightyquinn

It still sounds like it's related to the reel and after what happened to it I would put my money on that. The reel is hitting the bedknife still. If you disengage everything and tilt the mower back and rotate the reel with your hand slowly you should eventually hear the change in sound when it gets to that point. You are going to need to do a little investigation and process of elimination on your own since we can't be there to do it for you. I would focus on the area of the reel that you bent as it's most likely going to be coming from that area. I know that when I bent my reel, it took me a couple of grindings of that area before it was free and clear of the bedknife. You just need to sit out there with it and try different things and be a detective, that's basically what troubleshooting is all about.


----------



## Patrck17

Mightyquinn said:


> It still sounds like it's related to the reel and after what happened to it I would put my money on that. The reel is hitting the bedknife still. If you disengage everything and tilt the mower back and rotate the reel with your hand slowly you should eventually hear the change in sound when it gets to that point. You are going to need to do a little investigation and process of elimination on your own since we can't be there to do it for you. I would focus on the area of the reel that you bent as it's most likely going to be coming from that area. I know that when I bent my reel, it took me a couple of grindings of that area before it was free and clear of the bedknife. You just need to sit out there with it and try different things and be a detective, that's basically what troubleshooting is all about.


It does make a lot of sense that whatever caused that damage to the reel is what is causing the noise. And points straight to the contact with the bedknife.

I can spin the reel with my drill and doesn't make any noise so maybe when it increases something starts to resonate and ding.

Was half looking for some confirmation that it isn't normal. I'll have to start digging deeper.


----------



## TulsaFan

@Patrck17 Basically, you are doing a process of elimination. Either a reel blade is hitting the bedknife or it isn't. The reel bearings are making a roaring sound or they aren't.

Watching your video it seems as if your mower is knocking. If so, it could be that the knocking sounds are coming from the gears in the side case, it's usually a telltale sign that it needs some grease pumped into the side casing.

Watch this video and tell us if it's the same sound that your mower is making?

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=185519#p185519


----------



## zeus201

Tmank87 said:


> zeus201 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What part number did you end up ordering and what'd it end up costing? Been thinking about picking up a spare.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll let you know once they get back to me, but this is what I asked for:
> 
> Part #: K2511000280
> Part Name: Bedknife (Bottom Blade), 2.0
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> :thumbup:
Click to expand...

MSRP for part# K2511000280 is $98.06.


----------



## Tmank87

zeus201 said:


> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> zeus201 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll let you know once they get back to me, but this is what I asked for:
> 
> Part #: K2511000280
> Part Name: Bedknife (Bottom Blade), 2.0
> 
> 
> 
> :thumbup:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> MSRP for part# K2511000280 is $98.06.
Click to expand...

You're a gentleman, thanks.


----------



## Patrck17

Thanks guys.

@TulsaFan I saw your response and the knocking in that video is similar if not the same. This weekend I greased the gearbox again but no luck there. I've not ruled out gearbox, but I am a bit more confident that it is the engine.

I'll keep debugging. The mower cuts fine so I can still use it. Probably isn't doing the engine any favors. Thanks for feedback guys.


----------



## TulsaFan

Patrck17 said:


> Thanks guys.
> 
> @TulsaFan I saw your response and the knocking in that video is similar if not the same. This weekend I greased the gearbox again but no luck there. I've not ruled out gearbox, but I am a bit more confident that it is the engine.
> 
> I'll keep debugging. The mower cuts fine so I can still use it. Probably isn't doing the engine any favors. Thanks for feedback guys.


When you say, "greased the gearbox." How many pumps of grease?


----------



## Patrck17

@TulsaFan

I did 4 pumps last week on all the zerks. This was the first time I had ever greased the mower. Yesterday I did 3 more pumps on the zerks on the gearbox.

At this point I am pretty sure it is an issue with the engine. I changed out the ignition coil, spark plug, carb and air filter. This made things worse lol. I think the cheap amazon carb didn't do me any favors. My guess after messing around is that the engine is getting bogged down maintaining throttle under load. So either the drivetrain is causing too much stress or the engine is not properly tuned (or both).

Will look at what it will cost to have the engine properly serviced.

Does anyone know which motor version is used on the LM56G, there are like 50 different GX120s? I'll check the tag on mine when I get home just curious.

Also is it correct to assume that the mower should be able to spin the reel at idle right? I don't throttle up when I mow.


----------



## TulsaFan

Patrck17 said:


> @TulsaFan
> 
> I did 4 pumps last week on all the zerks. This was the first time I had ever greased the mower. Yesterday I did 3 more pumps on the zerks on the gearbox.
> 
> At this point I am pretty sure it is an issue with the engine. I changed out the ignition coil, spark plug, carb and air filter. This made things worse lol. I think the cheap amazon carb didn't do me any favors. My guess after messing around is that the engine is getting bogged down maintaining throttle under load. So either the drivetrain is causing too much stress or the engine is not properly tuned (or both).
> 
> Will look at what it will cost to have the engine properly serviced.
> 
> Does anyone know which motor version is used on the LM56G, there are like 50 different GX120s? I'll check the tag on mine when I get home just curious.
> 
> Also is it correct to assume that the mower should be able to spin the reel at idle right? I don't throttle up when I mow.


Your mower was supposedly new with very few hours. So, I wonder if it was ever greased properly in the beginning. I wouldn't be afraid to add 3+ more pumps to your gearcase.

JMO...I don't think its your engine. It may be a dirty carb or a new Amazon carb with gaskets that are cheap. Personally, I have never had problems with amazon carbs on equipment. However, I replaced the carb for my Baroness with one that is OEM.

I mow without using the throttle unless I'm in a hurry. Are you using a high/low frequency of cut??


----------



## Patrck17

I'll try that. I am not really overly concerned with over greasing.


----------



## Patrck17

So good news. I replaced the spark plug with an OEM from Home Depot and engine is running strong again.

Doesn't knock anymore so either it was the engine or the extra grease paid off.

I suspect what happened was that a few days ago I tipped the mower too far back to grind down the reel. When I ran it next it was burning a lot of oil. I figure the spark plug wasn't in great shape. The carb was probably not in tip top shape either so Everything combined was resulting in lack of power.

Thanks for the help guys.


----------



## zeus201

Has anyone else had issues getting parts for their Baroness? NIch @ Baroness referred to me to use their dealer network as they normally do not take direct order. The two dealers "local" to me have not been responsive which is a bit frustrating.

At this point, I'll gladly send Venmo or PayPal plus some for your time and pay for shipping if anyone has had better luck going through their local dealer.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Try calling Eastern Turf Equipment @ 910-483-0179. That's where I get my parts at.


----------



## TulsaFan

zeus201 said:


> Has anyone else had issues getting parts for their Baroness? NIch @ Baroness referred to me to use their dealer network as they normally do not take direct order. The two dealers "local" to me have not been responsive which is a bit frustrating.
> 
> At this point, I'll gladly send Venmo or PayPal plus some for your time and pay for shipping if anyone has had better luck going through their local dealer.


Who are your local dealers? Obviously, there are legal agreements with Baroness and those parties preventing direct sales.

Sadly, the squeakiest wheel often gets the most attention. I would harass those dealers with emails every single day with Nich being cc'd on every one.


----------



## zeus201

Mightyquinn said:


> Try calling Eastern Turf Equipment @ 910-483-0179. That's where I get my parts at.


I'll give them a call.



TulsaFan said:


> zeus201 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else had issues getting parts for their Baroness? NIch @ Baroness referred to me to use their dealer network as they normally do not take direct order. The two dealers "local" to me have not been responsive which is a bit frustrating.
> 
> At this point, I'll gladly send Venmo or PayPal plus some for your time and pay for shipping if anyone has had better luck going through their local dealer.
> 
> 
> 
> Who are your local dealers? Obviously, there are legal agreements with Baroness and those parties preventing direct sales.
> 
> Sadly, the squeakiest wheel often gets the most attention. I would harass those dealers with emails every single day with Nich being cc'd on every one.
Click to expand...

I'm in Iowa and been trying to get either of them to take my money :lol:

Northland Lawn, Sport & Equipment
Regions: Wisconsin, Minnesota, and the Upper Peninsula of Michigan

Wehrkamp Enterprises, Inc.
Regions: Ohio, Indiana & Illinois


----------



## zeus201

Eastern Turf FTW!

They had K2511000280 in stock, last one too. Joked he hasn't sold this part in last 5 five years.

Going forward, totally going to be using them for parts in the future, especially once I get around to refurbishing this other Baroness LM56 I have laying around.


----------



## TulsaFan

zeus201 said:


> Going forward, totally going to be using them for parts in the future, especially once I get around to refurbishing this other Baroness LM56 I have laying around.


Now, you're just bragging! :lol:


----------



## Tmank87

Gents - going to pickup a new bed knife for my LM66. Wanted to double check here that beyond the fasteners and bedknife I don't require additional parts.

I bought the torx screws that @Mightyquinn recommended from McMaster Carr and I have a hand driven impact to remove the existing knife. Anything else I should consider and/or add to my order? Going to order from Eastern Turf.

Also, I'm assuming just go with the standard 3mm knife?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Do you have a torque wrench?

As far as from Baroness, I can't really think of anything.


----------



## Tmank87

Mightyquinn said:


> Do you have a torque wrench?
> 
> As far as from Baroness, I can't really think of anything.


Good call, I do. I saw the specs being 5-7 ft lbs?


----------



## Mightyquinn

62-80 inch pounds. I doubt you can find a torque wrench that goes that low in foot pounds.


----------



## Tmank87

Mightyquinn said:


> 62-80 inch pounds. I doubt you can find a torque wrench that goes that low in foot pounds.


Ah, okay. May have to pickup a smaller wrench.

Is the installation as simple as popping the old off and securing the new with the new fasteners? Any potential pitfalls?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Yes, basically, just make sure the mounting surfaces are clean and free of debris before installing the new bedknife. A wire brush is good for this. Also, use anti-seize compound on the threads of the new screws before installing them.


----------



## Tmank87

Mightyquinn said:


> Yes, basically, just make sure the mounting surfaces are clean and free of debris before installing the new bedknife. A wire brush is good for this. Also, use anti-seize compound on the threads of the new screws before installing them.


My man. Thanks, sir :bandit:


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> Also, use anti-seize compound on the threads of the new screws before installing them.


The most important part of the above advice is to do so with gloves! Without gloves, you will look like the Tin Man!

...And follow the correct sequence for the screws for the bedknife...


----------



## Tmank87

TulsaFan said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Also, use anti-seize compound on the threads of the new screws before installing them.
> 
> 
> 
> The most important part of the above advice is to do so with gloves! Without gloves, you will look like the Tin Man!
> 
> ...And follow the correct sequence for the screws for the bedknife...
Click to expand...

Thank you for posting this. I wouldn't have done it like this, ha.

As for the anti seize... You only have to learn that lesson once, ha!


----------



## Mightyquinn

Do you not have the owners manual on PDF?


----------



## Tmank87

Mightyquinn said:


> Do you not have the owners manual on PDF?


I don't. And honestly, even if I did it's questionable at best I would have referenced.

I am going to procure now.


----------



## Mightyquinn

It's good reading for any new owner. The service manual also.


----------



## Patrck17

@Mightyquinn @TulsaFan

Has anyone noticed that their are discrepancies between the parts catalog and service manual listed on the Baroness website?

https://baroness.us/pdfs/

The first thing I notice is that the front light on version in the part manual is not the same as the front light shown in the service manual. Infact I cannot find a version of the part manual that has the same version as the square style (which is what I have). This discrepancy makes me wonder what else is different. I've looked through different versions of the part manual corresponding to different serial numbers and in some cases the part numbers are different.

My intuition is that the differences are small across the various versions but I would really like to be able to correspond the exact part manual for my version of the mower before I start buying parts.

Just curious if anyone has noticed this.


----------



## TulsaFan

The current parts catalog is for serial numbers after #32537 for the LM56GB mower. Your mower is a LM56GA model.

Baroness has used different engines on their machines...Honda and Subaru. The upgraded light is now LED.

For the most part, the rest of the parts are the same. I order my parts from the current catalog.


----------



## Patrck17

Thanks for the quick reply.


----------



## corneliani

This mornings' Weeks auction for the LM56G is running hot!! 
EDIT:
Is this one of us?


----------



## Nrkstudio

It is one of us  ... Serious reel mowing newcomer here, I liked that the Baroness was all gear driven. Seemed like a tougher/more durable choice than the other reel mowers at Weeks. About to do a zoysia reno at my house, switching from StAug (I live in South Louisiana).

This mower from weeks auction shows a serial number of 11479; that seems very low as compared to the applicable s/no's listed on the current Baroness parts catalog. Would y'all know what year it may have been manufactured? Do you all think I overpaid?

Nice to be part of this thread, learned quite a bit so far.



corneliani said:


> This mornings' Weeks auction for the LM56G is running hot!!
> EDIT:
> Is this one of us?


----------



## TulsaFan

Nrkstudio said:


> It is one of us  ... Serious reel mowing newcomer here, I liked that the Baroness was all gear driven. Seemed like a tougher/more durable choice than the other reel mowers at Weeks. About to do a zoysia reno at my house, switching from StAug (I live in South Louisiana).
> 
> This mower from weeks auction shows a serial number of 11479; that seems very low as compared to the applicable s/no's listed on the current Baroness parts catalog. Would y'all know what year it may have been manufactured? Do you all think I overpaid?
> 
> Nice to be part of this thread, learned quite a bit so far.


Welcome to the family! :thumbup:

It's probably a 2007-2010. (For reference, mine is a 2008.) Prices for Baronesses have gone up significantly since the MN stash of mowers. Most of these were used for a lease term and then parked. Some were never used at all. Regarding used prices as of late, someone just paid $2k and someone else paid closer to $3k. So, I think you did just fine. I am used to the older prices so I didn't even bid. :lol:


----------



## corneliani

Nrkstudio said:


> It is one of us  ... Serious reel mowing newcomer here, I liked that the Baroness was all gear driven. Seemed like a tougher/more durable choice than the other reel mowers at Weeks. About to do a zoysia reno at my house, switching from StAug (I live in South Louisiana).
> 
> This mower from weeks auction shows a serial number of 11479; that seems very low as compared to the applicable s/no's listed on the current Baroness parts catalog. Would y'all know what year it may have been manufactured? Do you all think I overpaid?
> 
> Nice to be part of this thread, learned quite a bit so far.


Ha! I had an inkling that may have been the case and didn't want to run the bid up.. glad to see you ended up with it. I tapped out at $800. But seeing how the smaller 180SL's were going for 1grand I think you did just fine. A couple hundred here or there is insignificant when you get what you want when you want it. :thumbup:

I guess I'll just keep lurking on this thread and live vicariously through you guys :lol:


----------



## TulsaFan

I asked my Baroness contact about your mower before the auction and he gave me the age range. I just told him what you paid and here is what he had to say...

"That is actually a good price. People in the golf industry are finally waking up to the unique abilities they have. The Baroness mowers are starting to make big moves in this industry."


----------



## Mightyquinn

That's good and bad news


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> That's good and bad news


Just be glad you already have TWO!!!


----------



## Mightyquinn

I could see 1 or 2 more going on sale in a year or two. :mrgreen:


----------



## DSchlauch

I've just about given up on finding one, I may just pull the trigger on a JD until I do. I look E.V.E.R.Y.D.A.Y., there just are not any out there ......I should be slapped daily for missing the ones @Christech11 and @Jbird95 just sold ....


----------



## Nrkstudio

Thanks for the info! Seems like a tight knit group here, the Baroness guys!

Happy to hear I didn't blow the bank on the mower. Hate to pay so much a resale isn't even feasible.

Looking forward to shipping the machine home and getting to know it. Will have to repost when the machine makes its way to me!



TulsaFan said:


> I asked my Baroness contact about your mower before the auction and he gave me the age range. I just told him what you paid and here is what he had to say...
> 
> "That is actually a good price. People in the golf industry are finally waking up to the unique abilities they have. The Baroness mowers are starting to make big moves in this industry."


----------



## zeus201

I keep wishing a LM101 would show up on the used market. Imagine it'd cost more than an arm & leg.



DSchlauch said:


> I've just about given up on finding one, I may just pull the trigger on a JD until I do. I look E.V.E.R.Y.D.A.Y., there just are not any out there ......I should be slapped daily for missing the ones @Christech11 and @Jbird95 just sold ....


If you want a project Baroness LM56, I'd consider selling one I have sitting in the garage.


----------



## DSchlauch

zeus201 said:


> If you want a project Baroness LM56, I'd consider selling one I have sitting in the garage.


I may be. PM me the details when you have time.


----------



## DSchlauch

FINALLY!! Thanks to some help from @TulsaFan and @DEW75 I was able to finally get a LM56! I'm still working on getting it from Ohio to Tennessee, but it is mine! I feel like a kid getting his first car, I'm so glad to finally be stepping up from the Cal Trimmer. I was able to get a demo model with @ 100 hours on it with a groomer, transport wheels, grass catcher and @ 90% life in the reel, should last me a long time. Jared from Wehrkamp Enterprises has been awesome to work with. I gave him some info on TLF this morning and I think he will be posting here soon as he has 4 more Baroness units available.


----------



## zeus201

Dang! That thing is mint.


----------



## kludge

Hi folks, I'm looking for some advice from the experts since I may have broken my Baroness. I was trying to do a quick mow and usually I try to avoid the water valve box since it's slightly above grade, but I was in too much of a rush and caught the right edge of the reel with the concrete box causing the mower to jump slightly. I immediately turned off the engine and did a full inspection and luckily the reel and bedknife both escaped unharmed.

However when I started to mow, I noticed a sound like you'd hear when you put a playing card in the spokes of a bike. I figured maybe the impact caused the reel and bedknife to go out of alignment so I backed off the reel until it didn't even contact the bedknife and yet there's still the flapping sound. Even worse, the motor sounds like it's struggling to turn the reel as I can feel it bog down similar to how it would behave if you're mowing through a tall dense patch of grass. Then I switched from low clip rate to high clip rate and the reel wouldn't spin at all.

I laid the mower flat and I can spin the reel with my hand. I also took off the side cover and inspected the gears and none of them were damaged. I have no idea where to look next and was hoping someone could give me some ideas. Thanks in advance!


----------



## ISU

DSchlauch said:


> FINALLY!! Thanks to some help from @TulsaFan and @DEW75 I was able to finally get a LM56! I'm still working on getting it from Ohio to Tennessee, but it is mine! I feel like a kid getting his first car, I'm so glad to finally be stepping up from the Cal Trimmer. I was able to get a demo model with @ 100 hours on it with a groomer, transport wheels, grass catcher and @ 90% life in the reel, should last me a long time. Jared from Wehrkamp Enterprises has been awesome to work with. I gave him some info on TLF this morning and I think he will be posting here soon as he has 4 more Baroness units available.


What these going for? Looks brand new!


----------



## Mightyquinn

kludge said:


> Hi folks, I'm looking for some advice from the experts since I may have broken my Baroness. I was trying to do a quick mow and usually I try to avoid the water valve box since it's slightly above grade, but I was in too much of a rush and caught the right edge of the reel with the concrete box causing the mower to jump slightly. I immediately turned off the engine and did a full inspection and luckily the reel and bedknife both escaped unharmed.
> 
> However when I started to mow, I noticed a sound like you'd hear when you put a playing card in the spokes of a bike. I figured maybe the impact caused the reel and bedknife to go out of alignment so I backed off the reel until it didn't even contact the bedknife and yet there's still the flapping sound. Even worse, the motor sounds like it's struggling to turn the reel as I can feel it bog down similar to how it would behave if you're mowing through a tall dense patch of grass. Then I switched from low clip rate to high clip rate and the reel wouldn't spin at all.
> 
> I laid the mower flat and I can spin the reel with my hand. I also took off the side cover and inspected the gears and none of them were damaged. I have no idea where to look next and was hoping someone could give me some ideas. Thanks in advance!


Did you take off both side plates, as there are gears on both sides. Check the grass deflector, grab the reel with a glove on and shake the reel and see if there is any play or not. Do you know what part of the mower actually hit the concrete? Does the engine only make that sound and bog down when the reel is engaged? Are you able to adjust the reel and bedknife to cut paper again? You could put a drill on the reel (like you were backlapping) and spin it to help you locate the sound with the engine off.


----------



## DSchlauch

ISU said:


> What these going for? Looks brand new!


I paid $2950 total, $2250 for the mower and $700 for the groomer...


----------



## Tmank87

I tried to order a bed knife through eastern turf two weeks ago. They evidently had to order through Baroness US. It is impossible to get anyone there (Baroness) on the phone. Anyone have a contact?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Tmank87 said:


> I tried to order a bed knife through eastern turf two weeks ago. They evidently had to order through Baroness US. It is impossible to get anyone there (Baroness) on the phone. Anyone have a contact?


At Baroness or Eastern Turf? If you ordered through Eastern Turf, I would just call them and see what's going on, they may have a more direct line then you may be able to get.


----------



## Tmank87

Mightyquinn said:


> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to order a bed knife through eastern turf two weeks ago. They evidently had to order through Baroness US. It is impossible to get anyone there (Baroness) on the phone. Anyone have a contact?
> 
> 
> 
> At Baroness or Eastern Turf? If you ordered through Eastern Turf, I would just call them and see what's going on, they may have a more direct line then you may be able to get.
Click to expand...

I tried, they seem to be facing the same issues (can't get anyone at Baroness).


----------



## Mightyquinn

Tmank87 said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to order a bed knife through eastern turf two weeks ago. They evidently had to order through Baroness US. It is impossible to get anyone there (Baroness) on the phone. Anyone have a contact?
> 
> 
> 
> At Baroness or Eastern Turf? If you ordered through Eastern Turf, I would just call them and see what's going on, they may have a more direct line then you may be able to get.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I tried, they seem to be facing the same issues (can't get anyone at Baroness).
Click to expand...

They are out in the Peoples Republic of California so who knows if they are even allowed to work or not :lol:


----------



## kludge

Mightyquinn said:


> kludge said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi folks, I'm looking for some advice from the experts since I may have broken my Baroness. I was trying to do a quick mow and usually I try to avoid the water valve box since it's slightly above grade, but I was in too much of a rush and caught the right edge of the reel with the concrete box causing the mower to jump slightly. I immediately turned off the engine and did a full inspection and luckily the reel and bedknife both escaped unharmed.
> 
> However when I started to mow, I noticed a sound like you'd hear when you put a playing card in the spokes of a bike. I figured maybe the impact caused the reel and bedknife to go out of alignment so I backed off the reel until it didn't even contact the bedknife and yet there's still the flapping sound. Even worse, the motor sounds like it's struggling to turn the reel as I can feel it bog down similar to how it would behave if you're mowing through a tall dense patch of grass. Then I switched from low clip rate to high clip rate and the reel wouldn't spin at all.
> 
> I laid the mower flat and I can spin the reel with my hand. I also took off the side cover and inspected the gears and none of them were damaged. I have no idea where to look next and was hoping someone could give me some ideas. Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> Did you take off both side plates, as there are gears on both sides. Check the grass deflector, grab the reel with a glove on and shake the reel and see if there is any play or not. Do you know what part of the mower actually hit the concrete? Does the engine only make that sound and bog down when the reel is engaged? Are you able to adjust the reel and bedknife to cut paper again? You could put a drill on the reel (like you were backlapping) and spin it to help you locate the sound with the engine off.
Click to expand...

Yea, I checked both sides and gears all look good. The reel is definitely stationary and there's no play on either side. I also checked the clutch and am able to engage the reel by hand. It's funny you mentioned backlapping because that's exactly what I tried last night as well. Oddly there's none of that flapping sound when I backlap or spin it by hand. I haven't checked the grass deflector yet, but that's a great idea.

I adjusted the reel to bedknife this morning and got it cutting paper again. I took the mower out on the grass and if I throttle all the way up, the reel spins again on the high clip rate setting. I don't recall having to do that previously though so something is still amiss here. At this point, I'm thinking maybe either the clutch or the gears on the reel itself? The mower moves briskly in travel mode, so I'm thinking the engine is fine.

The part that struck the concrete is the left corner if you're facing the mower.


----------



## Nrkstudio

kludge said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> kludge said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi folks, I'm looking for some advice from the experts since I may have broken my Baroness. I was trying to do a quick mow and usually I try to avoid the water valve box since it's slightly above grade, but I was in too much of a rush and caught the right edge of the reel with the concrete box causing the mower to jump slightly. I immediately turned off the engine and did a full inspection and luckily the reel and bedknife both escaped unharmed.
> 
> However when I started to mow, I noticed a sound like you'd hear when you put a playing card in the spokes of a bike. I figured maybe the impact caused the reel and bedknife to go out of alignment so I backed off the reel until it didn't even contact the bedknife and yet there's still the flapping sound. Even worse, the motor sounds like it's struggling to turn the reel as I can feel it bog down similar to how it would behave if you're mowing through a tall dense patch of grass. Then I switched from low clip rate to high clip rate and the reel wouldn't spin at all.
> 
> I laid the mower flat and I can spin the reel with my hand. I also took off the side cover and inspected the gears and none of them were damaged. I have no idea where to look next and was hoping someone could give me some ideas. Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> Did you take off both side plates, as there are gears on both sides. Check the grass deflector, grab the reel with a glove on and shake the reel and see if there is any play or not. Do you know what part of the mower actually hit the concrete? Does the engine only make that sound and bog down when the reel is engaged? Are you able to adjust the reel and bedknife to cut paper again? You could put a drill on the reel (like you were backlapping) and spin it to help you locate the sound with the engine off.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yea, I checked both sides and gears all look good. The reel is definitely stationary and there's no play on either side. I also checked the clutch and am able to engage the reel by hand. It's funny you mentioned backlapping because that's exactly what I tried last night as well. Oddly there's none of that flapping sound when I backlap or spin it by hand. I haven't checked the grass deflector yet, but that's a great idea.
> 
> I adjusted the reel to bedknife this morning and got it cutting paper again. I took the mower out on the grass and if I throttle all the way up, the reel spins again on the high clip rate setting. I don't recall having to do that previously though so something is still amiss here. At this point, I'm thinking maybe either the clutch or the gears on the reel itself? The mower moves briskly in travel mode, so I'm thinking the engine is fine.
> 
> The part that struck the concrete is the left corner if you're facing the mower.
Click to expand...

Not sure how much help this pic from the 1.3 service manual may offer, but it seems like a few of these noted issues include "rattling" issues that are analogous to your issues. Good luck!


----------



## zeus201

Tmank87 said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I tried to order a bed knife through eastern turf two weeks ago. They evidently had to order through Baroness US. It is impossible to get anyone there (Baroness) on the phone. Anyone have a contact?
> 
> 
> 
> At Baroness or Eastern Turf? If you ordered through Eastern Turf, I would just call them and see what's going on, they may have a more direct line then you may be able to get.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I tried, they seem to be facing the same issues (can't get anyone at Baroness).
Click to expand...

When I ordered my bedknife from Eastern Turf, gentleman mentioned that the Nich @ Baroness just had a kid and maybe in / out of the office for bit here.


----------



## Tmank87

zeus201 said:


> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> At Baroness or Eastern Turf? If you ordered through Eastern Turf, I would just call them and see what's going on, they may have a more direct line then you may be able to get.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried, they seem to be facing the same issues (can't get anyone at Baroness).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> When I ordered my bedknife from Eastern Turf, gentleman mentioned that the Nich @ Baroness just had a kid and maybe in / out of the office for bit here.
Click to expand...

Dude must be the only employee over there!


----------



## Patrck17

DSchlauch said:


>


Nice. Damn that is a great looking mower.

I have another question for fellow owners here, the @TulsaFan 's @Mightyquinn @zeus201 's and others.

Does anyone have any experience in a comparison of this mower to the Toro GM1000 (or similar) series. Both seem to have the same features,


----------



## Ware

Patrck17 said:


> DSchlauch said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice. Damn that is a great looking mower.
> 
> I have another question for fellow owners here, the @TulsaFan 's @Mightyquinn @zeus201 's and others.
> 
> Does anyone have any experience in a comparison of this mower to the Toro GM1000 (or similar) series. Both seem to have the same features,
Click to expand...

How dare you compare a Baroness to the inferior Toro species of reel mowers . #japanesesteel

In before @Mightyquinn and @TulsaFan :lol:


----------



## zeus201

Patrck17 said:


> DSchlauch said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice. Damn that is a great looking mower.
> 
> I have another question for fellow owners here, the @TulsaFan 's @Mightyquinn @zeus201 's and others.
> 
> Does anyone have any experience in a comparison of this mower to the Toro GM1000 (or similar) series. Both seem to have the same features,
Click to expand...

My GM1000 is a FAR more simpler machine compared the Baroness. It is like comparing a Lexus LFA supercar to Chevy Cobalt. Both will get you to your final destination, but the LFA will be far more enjoyable.

Both will mow low and cut well, but I greatly prefer the Baroness as it feels way smoother to operate. Heck, I still want a Toro Flex and will buy one of these years, but I'd sell it in a heartbeat for a Baroness LM101.

Just something about these machines...and perhaps I'm just being a homer :lol:


----------



## Mightyquinn

I agree that there is "something" about these mowers that just makes them feel special. I have used JD and Toro mowers on a limited basis at someone's else's house and they were nice but the Baroness is just so much nicer to operate. I do like the bail handle on the Baroness as it makes it easy to operate and control the mower. I also never get stragglers after mowing like I hear a lot about other mowers. The only thing I don't like is that I can't go to R&R and order parts for it like you can for the other 3. I am lucky to have a Baroness dealer locally though which kind of helps.


----------



## TulsaFan

Patrck17 said:


> DSchlauch said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice. Damn that is a great looking mower.
> 
> I have another question for fellow owners here, the @TulsaFan 's @Mightyquinn @zeus201 's and others.
> 
> Does anyone have any experience in a comparison of this mower to the Toro GM1000 (or similar) series. Both seem to have the same features,
Click to expand...

@bigmks has had both a Baroness and GM1000. Perhaps, he would share his opinion?


----------



## bigmks

All personal preference IMO. The baroness is definitely heavier although the way you can feather the control is nice. The Toro height of cut adjustment clicks is a nice feature compared to adjusting the HOC on the Baroness.The baroness wins on the maintenance side of a greens mower . The Toro on the other hand wins on the parts availability and possibly turn around for issue that may arises. Having a local dealer also plays a major part in purchasing. Either way you go would be fine, but if I had to pick one over the other I would choose one where you had a local dealer and support. Although this Baroness group is awesome you probably could figure it everything on here and save lots of money.


----------



## Patrck17

I've not used a Toro but I see a lot of users seem to have the GM1000 so I was curious. My LM56G feels like a tank and no complains yet. One thing I will say is that I am having trouble getting parts ordered. I've requested quotes via the Baroness website directly and through Eastern Turf and just getting a response takes weeks (Eastern Turf is responsive via the phone but they forwarded my quote request right to Baroness where I think the bottleneck lies). It isn't a huge deal right now because my mower is working, I am just trying to get a backup bed knife and parts to convert my dethatcher to a groomer, but I have not been able to get the parts on order. I could see this being a big issue if I actually needed a part for the mower to run.

Good input really when it comes to actual ownership vs comparing the machinery.


----------



## DSchlauch

Mower got here Thursday afternoon! Haven't been able to tinker with it much yet as I'm nursing my wife from a knee surgery this week for a torn meniscus and we finally are getting some long overdue rain, but man, what a machine! I knew this mower was in good condition from the description and the pictures I was sent but it would dishonest of me not to admit I didn't expect it to be this clean. I was told it had at most @ 100 hours on it and I suspect it may not have that many. I couldn't be more pleased. It started on the first half-pull, idled great, and cut paper all the way across the reel like butter. Hopefully this weekend I can get the oil changed, hour meter installed, set the HOC and take it out for a spin, I'm looking forward to it. 








Did I mention the reel was sharp?


----------



## TulsaFan

DSchlauch said:


> Mower got here Thursday afternoon! Haven't been able to tinker with it much yet as I'm nursing my wife from a knee surgery this week for a torn meniscus and we finally are getting some long overdue rain, but man, what a machine! I knew this mower was in good condition from the description and the pictures I was sent but it would dishonest of me not to admit I didn't expect it to be this clean. I was told it had at most @ 100 hours on it and I suspect it may not have that many. I couldn't be more pleased. It started on the first half-pull, idled great, and cut paper all the way across the reel like butter. Hopefully this weekend I can get the oil changed, hour meter installed, set the HOC and take it out for a spin, I'm looking forward to it.
> 
> Did I mention the reel was sharp?


Still gold on the blade...you won't even need a tetanus shot! It also means that you are officially in the Baroness Club.

Mower looks fantastic...Nothing like getting a new greens mower for cheap!


----------



## TheCutShop

DSchlauch said:


> Mower got here Thursday afternoon! Haven't been able to tinker with it much yet as I'm nursing my wife from a knee surgery this week for a torn meniscus and we finally are getting some long overdue rain, but man, what a machine! I knew this mower was in good condition from the description and the pictures I was sent but it would dishonest of me not to admit I didn't expect it to be this clean. I was told it had at most @ 100 hours on it and I suspect it may not have that many. I couldn't be more pleased. It started on the first half-pull, idled great, and cut paper all the way across the reel like butter. Hopefully this weekend I can get the oil changed, hour meter installed, set the HOC and take it out for a spin, I'm looking forward to it.


Wow, what a find. Lucky guy! I've been looking for a couple years, haven't came across a clean unit like that.


----------



## Nrkstudio

Mightyquinn said:


> MOCcock8 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Which compound are you guys using to backlap? Looks like I'm getting the LM66 from Bryan. Also, anyone want to do a video or tell me best way for HOC? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> For the lapping compound, you can get some Pinhigh 220 grit or some Clover compound. I use Clover 400 grit compound and I believe @TulsaFan uses 600 grit.
> 
> Adjusting the HOC is easy but you will need to have a HOC bar. You can either make one yourself or buy one from Accu-gauge or R&R. Just do a search for DIY HOC here on TLF and you should get some hits.
Click to expand...

My lm56g just came in, only cutting paper on one side (driver's side). I am trying to buy some backlapping compound and saw these recs. Is the pinhigh for homeowners compound decent? it's much more affordable than clover. Also, would you all recommend 120 grit if my reel doesn't feel very sharp, e.g. the blades def could not cut my hands or fingers. Here's a pic, I'll send reel pics in the AM.

Just FYI, I got the mower from Weeks, so I have no idea it's previous ownership or amount of hours on it. I do know the headlight bracket looks like it was hit with a baseball bat lol. I'm going to change the oil, gas, air filter before firing it up. Also the reel to bed knife clearance seems tight.


----------



## DSchlauch

I've used the pinhigh lapping compounds for a while and like them. I have never cared for the clover compounds as they are grease based which makes them harder to clean off the reel as opposed to the pinhigh compounds which are water based. Just my personal preference.


----------



## FrankS

kludge said:


> Hi folks, I'm looking for some advice from the experts since I may have broken my Baroness. I was trying to do a quick mow and usually I try to avoid the water valve box since it's slightly above grade, but I was in too much of a rush and caught the right edge of the reel with the concrete box causing the mower to jump slightly. I immediately turned off the engine and did a full inspection and luckily the reel and bedknife both escaped unharmed.
> 
> However when I started to mow, I noticed a sound like you'd hear when you put a playing card in the spokes of a bike. I figured maybe the impact caused the reel and bedknife to go out of alignment so I backed off the reel until it didn't even contact the bedknife and yet there's still the flapping sound. Even worse, the motor sounds like it's struggling to turn the reel as I can feel it bog down similar to how it would behave if you're mowing through a tall dense patch of grass. Then I switched from low clip rate to high clip rate and the reel wouldn't spin at all.
> 
> I laid the mower flat and I can spin the reel with my hand. I also took off the side cover and inspected the gears and none of them were damaged. I have no idea where to look next and was hoping someone could give me some ideas. Thanks in advance!


Sorry that I don't know anything about that mower. Can you remove any one of the gears and spin the remaining drivetrain by hand?


----------



## TulsaFan

Nrkstudio said:


> My lm56g just came in, only cutting paper on one side (driver's side). I am trying to buy some backlapping compound and saw these recs. Is the pinhigh for homeowners compound decent? it's much more affordable than clover. Also, would you all recommend 120 grit if my reel doesn't feel very sharp, e.g. the blades def could not cut my hands or fingers. Here's a pic, I'll send reel pics in the AM.
> 
> Just FYI, I got the mower from Weeks, so I have no idea it's previous ownership or amount of hours on it. I do know the headlight bracket looks like it was hit with a baseball bat lol. I'm going to change the oil, gas, air filter before firing it up. Also the reel to bed knife clearance seems tight.


When playing with the Baroness at first, do it out in the open where there are no objects. Stay away from concrete. When you mow with it do 1-2 perimeter passes parallel with the concrete. Then, cut the rest of the interior area. Don't be the guy who hits concrete his first week...Happens all the time!

According to the primary Baroness technician, any lapping compound around the #180-220 grit range is fine. I personally have 220 Pinhigh (from OKC) and 400 & 600 clover . One compound grit does not do all. The lapping is going to affect the bedknife more than the reel. The reels use super hardened steel. Probably want to order a new bedknife just to have on hand.

Congrats again on the mower, I am sure that you are going to love it! Just be sure to download the pdf's from www.baroness.us www.baroness.com is a whole different website! :lol:


----------



## zeus201

Clover stuff is a such a pain in the arse to get off!


----------



## Nrkstudio

TulsaFan said:


> Nrkstudio said:
> 
> 
> 
> My lm56g just came in, only cutting paper on one side (driver's side). I am trying to buy some backlapping compound and saw these recs. Is the pinhigh for homeowners compound decent? it's much more affordable than clover. Also, would you all recommend 120 grit if my reel doesn't feel very sharp, e.g. the blades def could not cut my hands or fingers. Here's a pic, I'll send reel pics in the AM.
> 
> Just FYI, I got the mower from Weeks, so I have no idea it's previous ownership or amount of hours on it. I do know the headlight bracket looks like it was hit with a baseball bat lol. I'm going to change the oil, gas, air filter before firing it up. Also the reel to bed knife clearance seems tight.
> 
> 
> 
> When playing with the Baroness at first, do it out in the open where there are no objects. Stay away from concrete. When you mow with it do 1-2 perimeter passes parallel with the concrete. Then, cut the rest of the interior area. Don't be the guy who hits concrete his first week...Happens all the time!
> 
> According to the primary Baroness technician, any lapping compound around the #180-220 grit range is fine. I personally have 220 Pinhigh (from OKC) and 400 & 600 clover . One compound grit does not do all. The lapping is going to affect the bedknife more than the reel. The reels use super hardened steel. Probably want to order a new bedknife just to have on hand.
> 
> Congrats again on the mower, I am sure that you are going to love it! Just be sure to download the pdf's from www.baroness.us www.baroness.com is a whole different website! :lol:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up man! It's my first time cranking any motor ever, so I am scouring the Baroness service manuals and the Subaru Robin engine manuals for instructions (and YouTube of course). Will report back when I get it cutting!


----------



## Mightyquinn

Welcome to the family @Nrkstudio & @DSchlauch !!

I agree with the others that commented about the Clover compound that it's a PIA to remove but I have yet to find a true backlapping compound that is higher than 220 grit. Using 400 grit or higher for your final backlap creates such a crisp edge and is just amazing. I agree that the Clover is a little more expensive but that one can will last you forever as a little bit goes a long way. I have also developed a system to cleaning it off that works pretty well.

When I need to backlap the mower, I will use the Clover and backlap it and then spray the whole reel down with some Super Clean, making sure to get the top and bottom of each reel blade rotating it backwards as I apply it. Also making sure to spray the SC where the bedknife and reel meet too. I will let that soak for 5-10 minutes and then rinse it off with a pressure washer. With that being said, I do have a 1700 PSI electric pressure washer setup for washing cars so that helps simplify things a little bit and I figure if it's safe enough for the cars it's plenty safe enough for the mower. Depending on how dirty the rest of the mower is, I will spray down the rest of the mower with Super Clean and then just pressure wash the whole mower and then blow it off with a leaf blower. This will get me this will get me a really clean mower afterwards. Since you don't have to backlap too often you get to clean your mower a few time through the season and get rid of all the grass buildup. I have been doing this for several years now with no negative effects on anything. If you are lubing your mower every 10 hours like you are suppose to, there shouldn't be any issues. You will also want to lube your adjustment bolts with some Fluid Film or similar product.


----------



## Nrkstudio

@Mightyquinn thanks man! I appreciate the backlapping tip too. I ended up with the Pinhigh 120 and 220 grit. Will post some pics when its all cleaned up, just changed the oil, spark plug, air filter, and gas. Time to fire it up as soon as the rain dies down here. Thanks again!


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Has anyone removed the light? I unbolted the light, but now I have a ground wire and the bulb loosely hanging. Wondering what to do with those.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I removed both of the lights on my mowers. Just zip tie them down to the existing wires on the mower so they are neat and out of the way.


----------



## glinget

@Mightyquinn thanks to you and others on this board

Have been using my LM56 since Feb '21.

Cuts paper and only needed minor adjustments so never really messed with the mower much and never backlapped

Today I decided to do a mid year reset. degrease the whole thing and go ahead with a 120 > 180 grit backlap, double check HOC and lower groomer HOC

The backlaping 
Really dialed it in and the cut is even more crisp. Better than I thought and with less bedknife contact.

Also adjusted the groomer down for the first time since sanding in April and wow o wow. Just did a charity mow after mowing this am to see what it would do - assumed not much. I was wrong!

HOC is .500" and groomer was set to .040"

Amazing the brown matter it pulled up as well as standing the grass up for extra clipping

Although I mowed this am the amount of grass and brown matter the mower tossed out was phenomenal.

Excited to see how this improves the lawn over the next couple of months.

Thanks all!


----------



## glinget




----------



## Mightyquinn

Damn!!! You really took that groomer down low!!! I don't think I have even taken it that low. It is amazing at what it will pull out and not disturb the grass hardly at all.


----------



## glinget

Mightyquinn said:


> Damn!!! You really took that groomer down low!!! I don't think I have even taken it that low. It is amazing at what it will pull out and not disturb the grass hardly at all.


I saw in another thread that you had your HOC at .400" and groomer at .050" so I used that as somewhat a reference point


----------



## Mightyquinn

glinget said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Damn!!! You really took that groomer down low!!! I don't think I have even taken it that low. It is amazing at what it will pull out and not disturb the grass hardly at all.
> 
> 
> 
> I saw in another thread that you had your HOC at .400" and groomer at .050" so I used that as somewhat a reference point
Click to expand...

Maybe your right then  Just checked my notes from 2019 and it does look like I was going that low with the Groomer. :thumbup:


----------



## glinget

Mightyquinn said:


> glinget said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Damn!!! You really took that groomer down low!!! I don't think I have even taken it that low. It is amazing at what it will pull out and not disturb the grass hardly at all.
> 
> 
> 
> I saw in another thread that you had your HOC at .400" and groomer at .050" so I used that as somewhat a reference point
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Maybe your right then  Just checked my notes from 2019 and it does look like I was going that low with the Groomer. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

What is your current HOC and groomer height? Just curious


----------



## Mightyquinn

I just started using the groomer yesterday as the lawn is just now starting to thicken up and I mowed at .400" and had the groomer set at .200" but I plan on lowering the groomer some more.


----------



## Nrkstudio

Got the lm56g working, engine sounds great, new oil, gas and spark plug. Have to admit it was the first time I started any [edit: small] engine.

Have to also admit i had to try it out as soon as it fired up. Unfortunately all I have is 3-4" thick, wet StAug. I kept the front roller off the ground a little and it chugged right through. Only made a pass or so for my victory lap. PIS to get the wet grass out though.

Quick question when dealing with the underside of the mower: when tilting the mower backwards are you all afraid to harm the engine by exceeding the recommended angle? Is it fine to just tilt the mower backwards and rest the handlebars on the ground?

Thanks for the help!


----------



## TheCutShop

Your car is a 4-stroke. 

Yes it is fine to tilt all the way back. This is how you will check and adjust your reel and bedknife by design.


----------



## Nrkstudio

TheCutShop said:


> Your car is a 4-stroke.
> 
> Yes it is fine to tilt all the way back. This is how you will check and adjust your reel and bedknife by design.


Lol, thanks for tip man! Much easier to work on the mower as you describe!


----------



## DSchlauch

@Nrkstudio I imagine if the mower was left for a long time tilted back, there is the possibility that some oil could make its way into the combustion chamber, but sitting the mower upright for a while would allow it to drain back down. The mower will rest on the kick stand when leaned back and I'm not sure the cylinder head goes horizontal enough to be concerned about this. Congrats!


----------



## Mightyquinn

I've had mine leaning back before for quite awhile and have never had any issues, but you could set it upright for a little bit if you want to play it safe.


----------



## Nrkstudio

Mightyquinn said:


> I've had mine leaning back before for quite awhile and have never had any issues, but you could set it upright for a little bit if you want to play it safe.


Thanks man!

Hey have you all ever heard of this HOC gauge:
https://www.witgauge.com/
I can't find much on it, but looks pretty well thought out. The WIT Gauge for HOC.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Nrkstudio said:


> Hey have you all ever heard of this HOC gauge:
> https://www.witgauge.com/
> I can't find much on it, but looks pretty well thought out. The WIT Gauge for HOC.


It looks neat but I don't see anything special about it and I wonder how much it is.


----------



## rothnic

Has anyone cut off the extra axle on a lm101? I recently bought a Jacobsen Tournament Cut 22, which turns out is a rebadged baroness lm101. I am missing the transport tires anyways, so I was considering trimming them off. It looks like I could just cut them off at the edge of the brake drums, but wanted to see if anyone has had experience with it first.


----------



## waltonereed

Mightyquinn said:


> Nrkstudio said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey have you all ever heard of this HOC gauge:
> https://www.witgauge.com/
> I can't find much on it, but looks pretty well thought out. The WIT Gauge for HOC.
> 
> 
> 
> It looks neat but I don't see anything special about it and I wonder how much it is.
Click to expand...

I checked with the owner. They haven't released it yet, working through some quality control issues, but when it goes on sale this fall it'll be $320


----------



## waltonereed

I was messing with my FOC this past weekend, and I think I messed things up. I've always cut at the "top" position, and I wanted to see what the difference would be like. It was an absolute bear to move from the "top" to the "bottom", and when I got it to the bottom, I had a lot of trouble with the reel feeling "stuck" or not rotating well. So I adjusted back to the top, and when I did, it sounded like something shifted around the reel, and the lever "popped up", for lack of better term. Now the mower is really difficult to mow with (almost like the reel is stuck), and I can't get the lever to pop back down or rotate to the bottom position. Does anyone have experience with this and know what I might be able to do?


----------



## TulsaFan

waltonereed said:


> I was messing with my FOC this past weekend, and I think I messed things up. I've always cut at the "top" position, and I wanted to see what the difference would be like. It was an absolute bear to move from the "top" to the "bottom", and when I got it to the bottom, I had a lot of trouble with the reel feeling "stuck" or not rotating well. So I adjusted back to the top, and when I did, it sounded like something shifted around the reel, and the lever "popped up", for lack of better term. Now the mower is really difficult to mow with (almost like the reel is stuck), and I can't get the lever to pop back down or rotate to the bottom position. Does anyone have experience with this and know what I might be able to do?


It doesn't look like it's seated in the notch correctly to me?


----------



## Mightyquinn

I agree, it doesn't look like it's seated all the way. If you are still having issues, you may need to take that cover off and make sure everything is good inside. Also, make sure everything is lubed correctly.


----------



## waltonereed

Mightyquinn said:


> I agree, it doesn't look like it's seated all the way. If you are still having issues, you may need to take that cover off and make sure everything is good inside. Also, make sure everything is lubed correctly.


"Seated." Yes, that's the term I was looking for. So when I press down, it doesn't seat correctly; so next step is to take cover off? Let's hope I don't jack things up


----------



## Mightyquinn

It should be pretty straight forward taking it off. If in doubt, take pictures and/or refer to the service/parts manual to ensure everything goes back together correctly


----------



## waltonereed

Gentlemen, have any of you encountered issues with the clutch, where the mower rolls at full speed when the reel is off, but slows to a crawl (or doesn't move at all) when the reel is on? I've also tested the issue when not on grass (thinking maybe the grass was just too long), but the issue persisted.

I've reviewed the service manual, but adjustments to clutch don't really seem to focus on this issue. Any ideas?

EDIT: I'm an idiot and reel to bedknife was too close. Time to order a new bedknife :lol:


----------



## waltonereed

Backyard Soldier said:


> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man. Appreciate it. I'm right down the road from those guys in Charlotte. Was thinking of taking it with me in the event the knife can't be sharpened and needs replaced. 2 day turn is encouraging.
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the Torx screws. https://www.mcmaster.com/94414a741
> 
> Here is what worked like a charm to get the old screws off.
> 
> TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_AXW4mQJsQTSQy
Click to expand...

Referring back to an OLD post, but were you able to get them out with the supplied bits or did you have to buy an extra thick bit?


----------



## Mightyquinn

That Tekton Hand impact does come with a pretty wide flat tip bit but depending on how stuck they are it may or may not work and you would need to order the specific bit from R&R.


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> That Tekton Hand impact does come with a pretty wide flat tip bit but depending on how stuck they are it may or may not work and you would need to order the specific bit from R&R.


R&R only sells Toro, JD, and Jacobsen sized bits. Luckily, I have all three. So, I will check on which one works best with Baroness after I get finished mowing tonight.


----------



## Mightyquinn

TulsaFan said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> That Tekton Hand impact does come with a pretty wide flat tip bit but depending on how stuck they are it may or may not work and you would need to order the specific bit from R&R.
> 
> 
> 
> R&R only sells Toro, JD, and Jacobsen sized bits. Luckily, I have all three. So, I will check on which one works best with Baroness after I get finished mowing tonight.
Click to expand...

That's what I meant as I know one of those will fit the Baroness.


----------



## TulsaFan

The John Deere Bedknife Screw Driver Tool from R&R Products works best for removing Baroness bedknife screws.

The tip is approximately 1/16" or 0.0605" thick and approximately 53/128" or 0.4140" wide
or the tip is approximately 1.54 mm thick and approximately 10.5 mm wide.

*John Deere (left), Jacobsen (center), and Toro (right)​*


----------



## waltonereed

@Mightyquinn @TulsaFan You guys rock. Thanks so much for the help!


----------



## Tmank87

I used the supplied Tekton bit in my Milwaukee m12 Fuel impact wrench. Had the knife off and on in 2 min. First time. Hand impact didn't move them.

I got a small torque wrench to torque to spec.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Tmank87 said:


> I used the supplied Tekton bit in my Milwaukee m12 Fuel impact wrench. Had the knife off and on in 2 min. First time. Hand impact didn't move them.
> 
> I got a small torque wrench to torque to spec.


I agree, I have had great success using a cordless impact driver when getting old bed knife screws out. There is a technique you need to use though to prevent stripping the screws. You want to use short quick trigger pulls and make sure the bit is square and level in the screw.


----------



## Tmank87

Mightyquinn said:


> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I used the supplied Tekton bit in my Milwaukee m12 Fuel impact wrench. Had the knife off and on in 2 min. First time. Hand impact didn't move them.
> 
> I got a small torque wrench to torque to spec.
> 
> 
> 
> I agree, I have had great success using a cordless impact driver when getting old bed knife screws out. There is a technique you need to use though to prevent stripping the screws. You want to use short quick trigger pulls and make sure the bit is square and level in the screw.
Click to expand...

Yep, for sure. Make sure the bit is seated in deep, provide some downward pressure. Quick short bursts on the trigger and it's out without incident.


----------



## zeus201

How many have had to use heat to get their bedknife screws out?

I've got the JD bedknife screw tool and hand impact and darn things won't budge. Tried using impact but felt like screw was near verge of stripping.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I have not. Using a cordless impact driver did the trick for me. Try spraying the screws down with PB Blaster and letting that sit for as long as you can. Worst case, you could use a punch/chisel and a hammer to knock the screw free.


----------



## zeus201

How far are you tipping back the mower? Ive got the mower on a piece of 2x8" and then tipped back onto the kickstand to try and get more access to the screws.

I'll spray the screws again and let it soak overnight.


----------



## TulsaFan

zeus201 said:


> How far are you tipping back the mower? Ive got the mower on a piece of 2x8" and then tipped back onto the kickstand to try and get more access to the screws.
> 
> I'll spray the screws again and let it soak overnight.


I have never changed the bedknife on my Baroness due to only having 30 hours on it. However, I have changed several JD SL bedknives by leaning it FORWARD where it was sitting/balanced on the front roller and grass catcher attachment. I don't know if it would work for a Baroness? On the JD it gives you complete access to the bedknife and the screws.


----------



## Mightyquinn

zeus201 said:


> How far are you tipping back the mower? Ive got the mower on a piece of 2x8" and then tipped back onto the kickstand to try and get more access to the screws.
> 
> I'll spray the screws again and let it soak overnight.


I usually just have the transport wheels on and tilt it all the way back and it gives me just enough access to get the impact driver with the bit on it in there.



TulsaFan said:


> I have never changed the bedknife on my Baroness due to only having 30 hours on it. However, I have changed several JD SL bedknives by leaning it FORWARD where it was sitting/balanced on the front roller and grass catcher attachment. I don't know if it would work for a Baroness? On the JD it gives you complete access to the bedknife and the screws.


I've gotten actually pretty good at changing them as I like to swap out my "good" bedknife for a used one when I am doing scalping or mowing after I have top dressed the lawn. I also bought the R&R bedknife facer tool that you attach to an angle grinder that I use to touch up the "used" bedknives after I put the good one back on. It does a really good job at putting an edge back on them. A little backlapping and adjustment and I'm back to cutting paper again.

FYI-- If you haven't already, you need to install TORX head screws instead of those crappy flat heads


----------



## zeus201

Finally got it off after some heat, banging, PB Blaster, and impact. What a pain in the butt, but after getting those screw removed it was super easy to replace. Used recommended Torx screws and added a dab of copper anti-seize for good measure.

After backlapping, mower is back to cutting paper cleanly which is really nice! Should done this earlier but oh well.

I'll keep this bedknife around as backup, but has anyone sharpened their old knife?


----------



## Mightyquinn

I have sharpened my old bed knives.

**EDIT**

I would like to add that I just reface my bedknives as that seems to do the trick to get them back to cutting paper again. I use the R&R facer attachment on an angle grinder. After a couple of passes the edge is square again. :thumbup:


----------



## MasterMech

zeus201 said:


> ...
> 
> I'll keep this bedknife around as backup, but has anyone sharpened their old knife?


If you're just going to touch up the face, you can do that. But to grind the top true, it needs to be mounted on the bed shoe.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

My mower started surging. It's been sitting in the shed for the past 2 months. My research leads me to think I need to clear the jet in the carburetor.


----------



## Mightyquinn

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> My mower started surging. It's been sitting in the shed for the past 2 months. My research leads me to think I need to clear the jet in the carburetor.


Yes, this most likely is the cause.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

I think I fixed the surging issue. My carb was really dirty, so I unplugged the pilot yet, gave it a rinse, and reinstalled it. No more surging.

But now, my engine is practically full throttle. All gas, no breaks. I think I might have lost a spring somewhere. Wasn't there one here?









It was mowing if I feathered the control. But the vibrations were causing things to fall off (the nut for the drum cover fell off and I had to find it). Now the reel won't go. Might need a little help here.


----------



## zeus201

Hopefully this helps


----------



## TulsaFan

zeus201 said:


> Hopefully this helps


One more...https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=352945#p352945


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

Well, I'm stumped. I don't know why my throttle is going berserk.

Edit - Hm, after watching some youtube videos, I think I need to fix the idle adjustment screw. I unscrewed that to clean the pilot jet. I didn't know it has to be in a certain position.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I would just buy a new carb and slap that on there and call it a day. I was having a similar issue with mine a few years back and I got tired of messing around with it and just bought a new one and all my issues were fixed. I now have an extra new carb just in case.


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

That might be my last resort. I replaced the carb when I bought this machine 2 years ago. I'm also considering buying a whole set of springs in case those are getting worn down. Maybe even replace the spark plug while I'm at it.


----------



## Mightyquinn

DuncanMcDonuts said:


> That might be my last resort. I replaced the carb when I bought this machine 2 years ago. I'm also considering buying a whole set of springs in case those are getting worn down. Maybe even replace the spark plug while I'm at it.


Did you buy an OEM carb or a Chinesium carb?


----------



## DuncanMcDonuts

It's supposedly a Honda branded carburetor.

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-16100-Z0T-911-Carburetor/dp/B00AAX943Q/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=gx120+oem+carburetor&qid=1633789055&sr=8-11

Edit - so yep, it definitely was that idle adjustment screw. I unscrewed and removed that so I could get access to the pilot jet and clean that off. When I reinstalled the screw, I threaded it in completely as I thought it was meant to fasten something.

I turned the mower on, gave the engine 10 seconds to warm up before closing the choke, and my engine was going full throttle like before. I started backing the idle adjustment screw off and could hear the RPMs going down. I kept going until it sounded like I remembered. My throttle is where it should be and it's mowing again.

Still a few more weeks into the season so I'm glad I can get my lawn back under control. I took about 2 months off while I was busy and the lawn became a jungle. I borrowed my uncle's rotary to scalp it under an inch in mid September and now the lawn is fully green and growing again.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Glad to hear you figured it all out and are back up and running again!!!


----------



## kbob11

Hi everyone, I am jumping on this thread as I have just purchased a Jacobsen TC 22 (Baroness LM101). @TulsaFan was telling me on another thread that the max HOC is 0.5." I am just wondering if anyone has experience with this mower and can tell me how to possibly raise that MAX hoc a little more. I looked at the new LM101 manual and it says the MAX hoc is 1.2" so this got me thinking. Thanks!


----------



## trashpanda

Would anyone be able to post a shot of the cable connections up into the handle system? Looking at a used 56 and owner says the clutch cable is broken off up there. Wanted to get an idea of what it's supposed to look like for reference.

Thanks!


----------



## TulsaFan

I am not at the house today to get a photo for you, but here's what a clutch wire cost in May 2020: 
K1130120000 WIRE, CLUTCH 1200 $21.31

Due to the supply chain, I assume it's more today.


----------



## TulsaFan




----------



## trashpanda

@TulsaFan thank you! Looks like the bottom pic is the actual cable attached to the rod with the spring.


----------



## Patrck17

Hey everyone. Last season I managed to break my bedknife on my LM56. It was the end of the season so I procrastinated getting it fixed but now spring is approaching so I need to get on it ASAP. I've sent emails to every dealer listed on baroness's site but no responses. I called Northland Lawn, Sport & Equipment and they had no issue putting the order in but they said that it would be drop shipped from California and that they almost always need to be grinded, as well as the blade to properly install. He recommended finding someone local and I tend to agree.

That said I am not aware of any locations in the DFW area that will service this reel. I've done limited googling and this is my second attempt at soliciting some recommendations. At very least I would be requesting a reliable source who would be able to get one out here ASAP. Any recommendations are welcome. Thanks!


----------



## Mightyquinn

Patrck17 said:


> Hey everyone. Last season I managed to break my bedknife on my LM56. It was the end of the season so I procrastinated getting it fixed but now spring is approaching so I need to get on it ASAP. I've sent emails to every dealer listed on baroness's site but no responses. I called Northland Lawn, Sport & Equipment and they had no issue putting the order in but they said that it would be drop shipped from California and that they almost always need to be grinded, as well as the blade to properly install. He recommended finding someone local and I tend to agree.
> 
> That said I am not aware of any locations in the DFW area that will service this reel. I've done limited googling and this is my second attempt at soliciting some recommendations. At very least I would be requesting a reliable source who would be able to get one out here ASAP. Any recommendations are welcome. Thanks!


I can tell you from experience that the bedknives DO NOT need to be grinded, worst case is that they need to be backlapped and mated with the reel. Did you call Eastern Turf Equipment in Fayetteville,NC(910) 483-0179? If you call them and they have one in stock I can swing in there after work tomorrow and pick it up.


----------



## Patrck17

Mightyquinn said:


> I can tell you from experience that the bedknives DO NOT need to be grinded, worst case is that they need to be backlapped and mated with the reel. Did you call Eastern Turf Equipment in Fayetteville,NC(910) 483-0179? If you call them and they have one in stock I can swing in there after work tomorrow and pick it up.


Thanks MQ! I will call in the morning and we can work out the exchange assuming they have one. Will probably get 2 if they have them.


----------



## Mightyquinn

@Patrck17 I was thinking about this and you could just ask them to mail them as it might be easier and cheaper for them if they have them in stock. Either way just let me know.


----------



## Patrck17

Yep they had 8 in stock so I got 2. Going to have them shipped out. The guy on the phone was saying that one of their customers from Charlotte uses a particular bedknife screw that worked well. Sounded like he was describing a Torx bit. Would that be you?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Good to hear that they were able to help you. I don't think so as I'm not from Charlotte and don't remember talking to them about the Torx screws I use. I haven't been in there in a few years as I haven't needed any parts.


----------



## waltonereed

Patrck17 said:


> Yep they had 8 in stock so I got 2. Going to have them shipped out. The guy on the phone was saying that one of their customers from Charlotte uses a particular bedknife screw that worked well. Sounded like he was describing a Torx bit. Would that be you?


Per feedback from others in this thread, this is what I ordered in lieu of the flat bedknife screws:
https://www.mcmaster.com/6939A56/
https://www.mcmaster.com/94414A741/

Walt


----------



## Tmank87

Patrck17 said:


> Yep they had 8 in stock so I got 2. Going to have them shipped out. The guy on the phone was saying that one of their customers from Charlotte uses a particular bedknife screw that worked well. Sounded like he was describing a Torx bit. Would that be you?


It was probably me :bandit:


----------



## Patrck17

I had them toss in a set of screws just incase. But I don't imagine the ones on my mower wouldn't be able to be used again.


----------



## TulsaFan

Patrck17 said:


> I had them toss in a set of screws just incase. But I don't imagine the ones on my mower wouldn't be able to be used again.


Always use new screws with anti-seize (with nitrile gloves).


----------



## Mightyquinn

TulsaFan said:


> Patrck17 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I had them toss in a set of screws just incase. But I don't imagine the ones on my mower wouldn't be able to be used again.
> 
> 
> 
> Always use new screws with anti-seize (with nitrile gloves).
Click to expand...

I would only recommend new screws if you are using the factory ones which are flat head and may strip on you while trying to remove them.

I have reused my Torx head screws many times as they don't strip out and are a breeze to remove.

Using Anti-Seize paste is always a good idea though regardless of which screws you decide to use.

You might want to start trying to remove those bedknife screws now before the new bedknife arrives as they can be a PIA. Wouldn't hurt to soak them down with some PB Blaster overnight either.


----------



## Tmank87

Use an impact wrench if you have one. I had mine off and back on with the quickness. Be sure to torque them down to spec and take them off/put them on in the order specified in the manual.


----------



## surs73

I ordered a new bedknife and in preparation, went to work on removing the old one (what a job that was). After getting it off and replacing the screws, I reinstalled the bedknife and now everything is really off. It won't cut paper and the right adjustment screw needs to come almost all the way off for it to contact the bedknife. Adjusting the left one makes everything super tight. Tried every combination of left and right adjustments and the best I could do was getting it to cut paper in the middle. Any tips on where to go from here?


----------



## Mightyquinn

surs73 said:


> I ordered a new bedknife and in preparation, went to work on removing the old one (what a job that was). After getting it off and replacing the screws, I reinstalled the bedknife and now everything is really off. It won't cut paper and the right adjustment screw needs to come almost all the way off for it to contact the bedknife. Adjusting the left one makes everything super tight. Tried every combination of left and right adjustments and the best I could do was getting it to cut paper in the middle. Any tips on where to go from here?


Did you clean the mating surfaces off before reinstalling the bedknife? Did you torque the bedknife down starting from the middle and working your way out? If all of that was done correctly then you need to back the bedknife off the reel so there is no contact and the reel spins freely. I think your bedknife bar is cattywampus and you probably adjusted one side of it more than the other. If the left side is super tight then you need to bring the right side down until it is about even with the left, when doing this it may tighten up the left side so you will need to raise it some more if that happens. I would recommend using a feeler gauge so you can see how far out you are on each side and bring them down together as best you can. Good luck and let us know if this helped or if you need me to expand on something :thumbup:


----------



## surs73

Mightyquinn said:


> surs73 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered a new bedknife and in preparation, went to work on removing the old one (what a job that was). After getting it off and replacing the screws, I reinstalled the bedknife and now everything is really off. It won't cut paper and the right adjustment screw needs to come almost all the way off for it to contact the bedknife. Adjusting the left one makes everything super tight. Tried every combination of left and right adjustments and the best I could do was getting it to cut paper in the middle. Any tips on where to go from here?
> 
> 
> 
> Did you clean the mating surfaces off before reinstalling the bedknife? Did you torque the bedknife down starting from the middle and working your way out? If all of that was done correctly then you need to back the bedknife off the reel so there is no contact and the reel spins freely. I think your bedknife bar is cattywampus and you probably adjusted one side of it more than the other. If the left side is super tight then you need to bring the right side down until it is about even with the left, when doing this it may tighten up the left side so you will need to raise it some more if that happens. I would recommend using a feeler gauge so you can see how far out you are on each side and bring them down together as best you can. Good luck and let us know if this helped or if you need me to expand on something :thumbup:
Click to expand...

I used a stiff brush but probably need to do a better job of getting it clean. Yes, I followed the torque procedure so that shouldn't be the problem. I'm pretty sure the issue is in the adjustment arms...getting those off the bedbar was near impossible so I'm sure something came out of alignment during that process. I'll take everything apart and begin at step 1 starting with making sure those adjustment arms are set about equal and work from there. Will let you know how it goes!


----------



## Mightyquinn

OH!!! You took the bed bar off??? That is exactly where your issue is at. Make sure you follow the installation instructions and get everything set up to factory specs as close as you can.

Just FYI, I never take the bed bar off when replacing the bedknife. You can just tilt it back and take the bedknife screws out, no need for all that extra work.


----------



## surs73

yeah, I had no choice with the bed bar unfortunately. I couldn't get enough leverage on the screws even with using the impact screwdriver. As it was, getting them out on the bench took several hours of effort. It's crazy how heavy the bed bar and knife are....makes be feel better about running into things


----------



## TulsaFan

surs73 said:


> yeah, I had no choice with the bed bar unfortunately. I couldn't get enough leverage on the screws even with using the impact screwdriver.


You just need to spray more PB Blaster and use a heavier hammer!  :lol:

Just wondering, did you replace the slotted screws with torx to make it easier next time?


----------



## surs73

TulsaFan said:


> surs73 said:
> 
> 
> 
> yeah, I had no choice with the bed bar unfortunately. I couldn't get enough leverage on the screws even with using the impact screwdriver.
> 
> 
> 
> You just need to spray more PB Blaster and use a heavier hammer!  :lol:
> 
> Just wondering, did you replace the slotted screws with torx to make it easier next time?
Click to expand...

Yes, the new torx bits are on there along with some anti seize. Never removing that bed bar again if I can help it.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

What type of grease are you guys using on all the zerks?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Lucas X-Tra Heavy Duty Grease in the green and white tube.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Mightyquinn said:


> Lucas X-Tra Heavy Duty Grease in the green and white tube.


The Baroness manual recommends an EP2 grease whereas the Lucas is a nlgi 2. What are the differences?


----------



## Mightyquinn

I've been using the Lucas NGLI #2 grease for the last 6 or 7 years and haven't had any issues. I can't say why I started using that over EP2 grease, maybe at the time I didn't realize there was a difference.

EDIT***

I was looking at the website and it says it has an extreme pressure additive package in it so that's good enough for me :thumbup:

Lucas X-Tra HD Grease


----------



## Ware




----------



## TulsaFan

Ware said:


>


Here's more info on the current model in case you decide to get rid of the JD.


----------



## Ware

What do those bad boys sell for?


----------



## TulsaFan

Ware said:


> What do those bad boys sell for?


EDIT: _ https://bertiegreen.co.uk/machinery/baroness-triple-gang-mower-lm180c/ has them for 7,995 Sterling Pounds or roughly $10,441. _

They are used for mowing cricket pitches.


----------



## Ware

Reminds me of an iteration of the National triplex mowers.

https://youtu.be/TcQWDbxQtm4


----------



## TulsaFan

Good eye, @Ware The original manual for the LM180 Triple Mower shows Saxon Industries. Maybe National or Saxon sold to the design to the other...Who knows? The steering rectangle for both mowers is ridiculous! :lol:


----------



## waltonereed

How do you guys effectively measure the height of the groomer setting? My Accugage doesn't quite get it, but hoping you guys have better ideas than me.


----------



## Mightyquinn

waltonereed said:


> How do you guys effectively measure the height of the groomer setting? My Accugage doesn't quite get it, but hoping you guys have better ideas than me.


I have an Accugage Groomer Gage that I use.


----------



## waltonereed

Mightyquinn said:


> waltonereed said:
> 
> 
> 
> How do you guys effectively measure the height of the groomer setting? My Accugage doesn't quite get it, but hoping you guys have better ideas than me.
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Accugage Groomer Gage that I use.
Click to expand...

I was trying NOT to have to buy another tool


----------



## Mightyquinn

waltonereed said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> waltonereed said:
> 
> 
> 
> How do you guys effectively measure the height of the groomer setting? My Accugage doesn't quite get it, but hoping you guys have better ideas than me.
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Accugage Groomer Gage that I use.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was trying NOT to have to buy another tool
Click to expand...

You could use some digital calipers to measure the distance with the HOC gauge on the mower and then do some simple math to get your GHOC.


----------



## TulsaFan

waltonereed said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> waltonereed said:
> 
> 
> 
> How do you guys effectively measure the height of the groomer setting? My Accugage doesn't quite get it, but hoping you guys have better ideas than me.
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Accugage Groomer Gage that I use.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was trying NOT to have to buy another tool
Click to expand...

After talking to someone at Accuproducts about the groomer-gage a couple of years ago, I was told that I really didn't need that kind of groomer precision for my personal lawn. Stated that I wasn't really cutting low enough for it to benefit me at 0.5".

Just depends how much your O.C.D. is worth???


----------



## Mightyquinn

TulsaFan said:


> Just depends how much your O.C.D. is worth???


It's worth it to me :thumbup:

I like experimenting with different HOC's with the groomer to see what works and what does too much damage. It definitely works as it will pull a bunch of brown material out of the grass when set correctly without any visible damage to the lawn.


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just depends how much your O.C.D. is worth???
> 
> 
> 
> It's worth it to me :thumbup:
> 
> I like experimenting with different HOC's with the groomer to see what works and what does too much damage. It definitely works as it will pull a bunch of brown material out of the grass when set correctly without any visible damage to the lawn.
Click to expand...

What's your current HOC and groomer depth?


----------



## Mightyquinn

TulsaFan said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just depends how much your O.C.D. is worth???
> 
> 
> 
> It's worth it to me :thumbup:
> 
> I like experimenting with different HOC's with the groomer to see what works and what does too much damage. It definitely works as it will pull a bunch of brown material out of the grass when set correctly without any visible damage to the lawn.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What's your current HOC and groomer depth?
Click to expand...

My HOC is currently .30" and the Groomer(Brush currently) is at .100". I will probably keep the groomer at that HOC once I put it on, which will be once I achieve 100% green-up. Depending on how that goes I plan on lowering it .01" every so often to see how low I can go without doing any damage.


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's worth it to me :thumbup:
> 
> I like experimenting with different HOC's with the groomer to see what works and what does too much damage. It definitely works as it will pull a bunch of brown material out of the grass when set correctly without any visible damage to the lawn.
> 
> 
> 
> What's your current HOC and groomer depth?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My HOC is currently .30" and the Groomer(Brush currently) is at .100". I will probably keep the groomer at that HOC once I put it on, which will be once I achieve 100% green-up. Depending on how that goes I plan on lowering it .01" every so often to see how low I can go without doing any damage.
Click to expand...

What is the farthest below grade you have ever taken it?


----------



## Mightyquinn

TulsaFan said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> What's your current HOC and groomer depth?
> 
> 
> 
> My HOC is currently .30" and the Groomer(Brush currently) is at .100". I will probably keep the groomer at that HOC once I put it on, which will be once I achieve 100% green-up. Depending on how that goes I plan on lowering it .01" every so often to see how low I can go without doing any damage.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What is the farthest below grade you have ever taken it?
Click to expand...

I have never taken it below grade as it's not designed for that. I can't remember exactly what the lowest I have gone with the groomer but I want to say some where around .050". I would need to check to see if I have written it down somewhere.

** Just checked and it looks like I went down to .055" for a short time in 2019.


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> My HOC is currently .30" and the Groomer(Brush currently) is at .100". I will probably keep the groomer at that HOC once I put it on, which will be once I achieve 100% green-up. Depending on how that goes I plan on lowering it .01" every so often to see how low I can go without doing any damage.
> 
> 
> 
> What is the farthest below grade you have ever taken it?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have never taken it below grade as it's not designed for that. I can't remember exactly what the lowest I have gone with the groomer but I want to say some where around .050". I would need to check to see if I have written it down somewhere.
> 
> ** Just checked and it looks like I went down to .055" for a short time in 2019.
Click to expand...

Regarding below grade, I was curious after looking at the directions...


----------



## Mightyquinn

I swung by the Baroness Dealer(Southeastern Turf Equipment) today after work to see about getting some backup bedknives for my mower. While I was in there they told me that Baroness has new bedknives and one of them is a 1.0mm "Tournament Cut" bedknife which they did have in stock and was $112 but I didn't go with that one as they have another shipment coming in later next week so I will stop back by there next week and see what they have. They also have a 1.5mm Tipped Bedknife also. They gave me a brochure with all the new bedknives in them with some information too. They also told me that Carolina Country Club ( I think that's what they said) was using Baroness bedknives on their John Deere mowers since they held up so much better. Didn't know that was a thing 

Here are some pictures of the brochures:


----------



## zeus201

For $112, I'm going to call them and get another blade as backup as well!

BTW...what do you guys do with your old bedknifes? Do you reface them and use as backup and etc.?


----------



## Mightyquinn

zeus201 said:


> For $112, I'm going to call them and get another blade as backup as well!
> 
> BTW...what do you guys do with your old bedknifes? Do you reface them and use as backup and etc.?


Yes, that's what I do with mine. I use the older ones that are still good when scalping or mowing after topdressing. I will reface them afterwards so they are ready to go next time. I bought the R&R bedknife refacer for that purpose.


----------



## DSchlauch

I could use a little help.

Any idea what could be making these stripes/lines on each pass? It looks like there is something "dragging" lifting the turf or something causing 2 perfect stripes to not be cut?? I can't seem to figure it out. I've inspected everything I can think of and nothing looks out of order. No change with the groomer running forward or in reverse. Reel is cutting paper like a laser all the way across. The stripes/lines seem to be just right of center, about where the light is mounted.

Any suggestions?


----------



## Mightyquinn

I would check your HOC to make sure it's even on both sides. And the HOC of the groomer or just turn it off completely and see what you get. To me it looks like something is dragging causing the lines.


----------



## TulsaFan

DSchlauch said:


> I could use a little help.
> 
> Any idea what could be making these stripes/lines on each pass? It looks like there is something "dragging" lifting the turf or something causing 2 perfect stripes to not be cut?? I can't seem to figure it out. I've inspected everything I can think of and nothing looks out of order. No change with the groomer running forward or in reverse. Reel is cutting paper like a laser all the way across. The stripes/lines seem to be just right of center, about where the light is mounted.
> 
> Any suggestions?


Any chance any of the blades on the groomer/dethatcher are bent?


----------



## DSchlauch

Mightyquinn said:


> I would check your HOC to make sure it's even on both sides. And the HOC of the groomer or just turn it off completely and see what you get. To me it looks like something is dragging causing the lines.





TulsaFan said:


> Any chance any of the blades on the groomer/dethatcher are bent?


So my best guess at this point is that I have a couple small bends in the bed knife. I don't remember hitting anything, and I would think it would take something significant to bend the bed knife, but apparently at some point I did, more than likely while scalping I suppose. They are not big enough to see, but when running my finger across the bottom edge of the bed knife, I can feel two small areas that seem to bend down just a touch, I suppose just enough to cause the turf to not be cut evenly with the rest of the bed knife. Looks like I'll be ordering a new bed knife to confirm ......
Thanks for your input .....


----------



## Mightyquinn

Is it cutting paper in those spots? Looks to be on the left side of the mower as you are facing it. Is it cutting good on all 11 blades in those spots?


----------



## DSchlauch

DSchlauch said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would check your HOC to make sure it's even on both sides. And the HOC of the groomer or just turn it off completely and see what you get. To me it looks like something is dragging causing the lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any chance any of the blades on the groomer/dethatcher are bent?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So my best guess at this point is that I have a couple small bends in the bed knife. I don't remember hitting anything, and I would think it would take something significant to bend the bed knife, but apparently at some point I did, more than likely while scalping I suppose. They are not big enough to see, but when running my finger across the bottom edge of the bed knife, I can feel two small areas that seem to bend down just a touch, I suppose just enough to cause the turf to not be cut evenly with the rest of the bed knife. Looks like I'll be ordering a new bed knife to confirm ......
> Thanks for your input .....
Click to expand...

 Changed out the bed knife, problem resolved .......


----------



## Mightyquinn

Glad you figured it out but I thought you said the reel was cutting fine all the way across?


----------



## DSchlauch

Mightyquinn said:


> Glad you figured it out but I thought you said the reel was cutting fine all the way across?


It was, I even backlapped lightly to see if that would resolve it. I guess I just didn't try cutting paper where the bed knife was damaged. The next day, after finding the 2 spots that felt damaged, I didn't try cutting paper on those spots since I was convinced that was the problem anyway. 
In the end, I needed another bed knife anyway. I went ahead and bought 2 new ones and I'll use the damaged one for scalping.


----------



## Mightyquinn

DSchlauch said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Glad you figured it out but I thought you said the reel was cutting fine all the way across?
> 
> 
> 
> It was, I even backlapped lightly to see if that would resolve it. I guess I just didn't try cutting paper where the bed knife was damaged. The next day, after finding the 2 spots that felt damaged, I didn't try cutting paper on those spots since I was convinced that was the problem anyway.
> In the end, I needed another bed knife anyway. I went ahead and bought 2 new ones and I'll use the damaged one for scalping.
Click to expand...

Where did you get your bedknives at? Which ones did you buy?


----------



## DSchlauch

Mightyquinn said:


> Where did you get your bedknives at? Which ones did you buy?


Eastern Turf Equipment in Fayetteville. I went with the standard 1.5mm bed knives.


----------



## Mightyquinn

DSchlauch said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Where did you get your bedknives at? Which ones did you buy?
> 
> 
> 
> Eastern Turf Equipment in Fayetteville. I went with the standard 1.5mm bed knives.
Click to expand...

I was wondering, I was just in there on Friday as they got a new shipment of bedknives in but they were all the 1.5 standard knives and the new 1.0 Tournament knives. The 1.0's look like razor blades. I'm about to order some 3.0 tipped knives, just waiting back on a quote from John.


----------



## Jbird95

@Mightyquinn thank you for posting the bedknife brochure. I have been trying to figure out what p/n I need for a backup but bedknife info from Baroness seemed scarce. I am assuming if our grass is maintained at .5" -1" we should use .157" minimum cut bedknife? I guess I'm asking which Baroness bedknife is for a "fairway cut." Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thank you


----------



## Mightyquinn

This is the one from the manual that has the part numbers. The brochure doesn't have that info. The 5mm Tipped is going to be the thickest most durable one they offer. As long as you never plan to mow/scalp below .250" that one should work just fine for you.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

This right side threaded post where you adjust the hoc spins along with the nut when attempting to make any adjustments.

The other side works fine and I can easily turn it by hand to change the height. Any ideas on how to fix this?


----------



## Mightyquinn

If the post is loose it may not be threaded all the way down and/or you may need to tighten that jam nut at the base of the bracket.


----------



## kalcormier

Hey Baroness family.

Ya'll hear me knocking?.....Well, let me in!

Mower scheduled to arrive on Monday!!


----------



## Mightyquinn

Congrats!!! Where did you find it at?


----------



## TulsaFan

kalcormier said:


> Hey Baroness family.
> 
> Ya'll hear me knocking?.....Well, let me in!
> 
> Mower scheduled to arrive on Monday!!


Welcome!!! :thumbup:

Going from a Scott's manual reel straight to a Baroness shows some extreme efficiency in your mower game! :lol:


----------



## kalcormier

Thanks @Mightyquinn! I bought it from North Ridge Country Club.

Thanks @TulsaFan! I used the Scotts all last season to see if I would stick with it. At the beginning of this season I was like "screw this! I'm not killing myself anymore." After reading through the mower threads you and MQ convinced me this was the way to go.

It should be interesting learning to drive it.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I think it's one of the easiest greens mowers to operate, having all the controls on the handle bar makes it easy to adjust your pace.


----------



## zeus201

kalcormier said:


> It should be interesting learning to drive it.


Congrats, post pics!

It's fairly easy to drive once. Only thing annoying is the safety lock handle, but you can remove it.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Mightyquinn said:


> If the post is loose it may not be threaded all the way down and/or you may need to tighten that jam nut at the base of the bracket.


The threaded bolt was messed up making the hoc adjustment knob unable to spin up and down the threads.

Where's the best place to order replacement parts?


----------



## TulsaFan

Keepin It Reel said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> If the post is loose it may not be threaded all the way down and/or you may need to tighten that jam nut at the base of the bracket.
> 
> 
> 
> The threaded bolt was messed up making the hoc adjustment knob unable to spin up and down the threads.
> 
> Where's the best place to order replacement parts?
Click to expand...

My mower sat for 10 years before I bought it in 2019. So, mine was seized and I had to replace it as well.

The part was LM56GA-2901A0 (SCREW, ADJUSTING CUTTING HEIGHT). The part cost $12.17 and then $19.95 for shipping from the corporate office in Richmond, CA. Your dealer will probably be the same dealer as @Mightyquinn's which is Eastern Turf.


----------



## kalcormier

You could take a thread die and run it down the shaft to clean up the threads while waiting on the new one.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Those threads don't look too bad, you could always re-thread with a tap and die set. The only thing is would be finding what kind of thread it is.

If you do go and get a new bolt, I would get a new nut too.

Looks like @kalcormier beat me to the punch :lol:


----------



## kalcormier

@Mightyquinn I was wondering if the parts list called out the size.

Could use a thread gauge to match it.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Yeah, I looked it up but it didn't have the size of the bolt on it.

I would take the nut to the hardware store and try to match it up to a bolt to get the size. I'm sure it's M10-M12 at least.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

Mightyquinn said:


> Those threads don't look too bad, you could always re-thread with a tap and die set. The only thing is would be finding what kind of thread it is.
> 
> If you do go and get a new bolt, I would get a new nut too.
> 
> Looks like @kalcormier beat me to the punch :lol:


Both the nut and bolt were all jacked up. I'd rather just order both.


----------



## Mightyquinn

It could take a while for it to come in especially if it comes from Japan.


----------



## TulsaFan

TulsaFan said:


> Keepin It Reel said:
> 
> 
> 
> The threaded bolt was messed up making the hoc adjustment knob unable to spin up and down the threads.
> 
> Where's the best place to order replacement parts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My mower sat for 10 years before I bought it in 2019. So, mine was seized and I had to replace it as well.
> 
> The part was LM56GA-2901A0 (SCREW, ADJUSTING CUTTING HEIGHT). The part cost $12.17 and then $19.95 for shipping from the corporate office in Richmond, CA. Your dealer will probably be the same dealer as @Mightyquinn's which is Eastern Turf.
Click to expand...

I jinxed myself!!!

I decided to scalp the lawn today at 0.3" and my original, adjuster seized to the bolt while I was attempting to reset my HOC to 0.5". So, I am cutting at 0.404" until I get the new part.

So, we will see if Eastern Turf is any faster for @Keepin It Reel than ordering directly from corporate in Richmond, CA??? :?


----------



## Mightyquinn

I have found that keeping those threads lubed helps prevent any seizing. Give it a shot of Fluid Film or something similar. It's best if you can work the bolt all the way up and down but something is better than nothing.


----------



## TulsaFan

Mightyquinn said:


> I have found that keeping those threads lubed helps prevent any seizing. Give it a shot of Fluid Film or something similar. It's best if you can work the bolt all the way up and down but something is better than nothing.


I placed anti seize on the last bolt that I replaced in 2019. The roller adjuster nut turned like butter last night.

*IMPORTANT TIP: * If the roller adjuster nut seizes to the bolt, do not try to unseize it while the bolt is mounted to the frame. Be sure to remove it from the frame. If you apply too much force trying to move the adjuster up/down on a seized bolt, you could strip out the course threads in the aluminum frame. Be sure to have a 10mm wrench on the nut to keep it from turning the end of the bolt in the frame if you decide not to remove it.


----------



## kalcormier

1st look


----------



## kalcormier

1st look


----------



## kalcormier

Holy moly this thing is a lot bigger than it seems in the pics and seems pretty heavy. I am like a kid on Christmas. I can't wait to rip it open and start tinkering with everything!


----------



## Keepin It Reel

TulsaFan said:


> *IMPORTANT TIP: * If you apply too much force trying to move the adjuster up/down on a seized bolt, you could strip out the course threads in the aluminum frame.


So this happened to mine.

I was able to find the bolt and adjustment nut from a dealer in PA. I'll probably use JB Weld to secure the bolt into the frame since it's now stripped.


----------



## TulsaFan

kalcormier said:


> Holy moly this thing is a lot bigger than it seems in the pics and seems pretty heavy. I am like a kid on Christmas. I can't wait to rip it open and start tinkering with everything!


First thing you will probably want to do is raise the HOC! (Pay attention to the past few posts about the nut possibly seizing to the bolt.) Your yard is probably a minefield right now for the reel.

Stay away from concrete and remove the safety.

Enjoy!


----------



## kalcormier

Yeah. The maintenance guy mentioned they were cutting at .08"! Definitely going to check that.

I didn't see the safety lever, so it may be off already. But, I also didn't notice the throttle. Going to have to give it a good inspection after work.

I will fire it up in the middle of the yard. Lol

I'm sure I'll have more questions for you guys, if I can't figure it out with the manual.


----------



## kalcormier

Problem #1 Couldn't pull it off the pallet. It would only move like a differential. Thanks to this forum realized the parking brake was on.

Problem #2 How to get this thing out the back of my truck? Used an aluminum 4wheeler ramp. I was terrified I would hit the reel or groomer. But I was able to back it down working the brake. If it didn't have a brake it would have steamrolled me.

First impressions: No safety lever and no throttle cable. Throttle is set at the motor. The reel is sharp as fuck. Came with a grooved roller i need to put on. HOC is set VERY low. Need to make a gauge tomorrow. Bedknife looks to be in good shape. So far, very pleased.


----------



## TulsaFan

@kalcormier...Do you have an update on your new toy for us?

@Keepin It Reel...Have you received your parts yet? I finally heard back from the corporate office on Friday in regards to getting my order placed. I should have my parts on Wednesday. I paid double for the same exact parts that I ordered in 2019! Asking for a quote next time. :lol:

FYI...the Baroness corporate office has moved from Richmond, CA (near San Fran) to Long Beach, CA. Supposedly, having access to the bigger port was part of their decision. @Mightyquinn...Graeme is no longer with the company! :shock:


----------



## Mightyquinn

TulsaFan said:


> @kalcormier...Do you have an update on your new toy for us?
> 
> @Keepin It Reel...Have you received your parts yet? I finally heard back from the corporate office on Friday in regards to getting my order placed. I should have my parts on Wednesday. I paid double for the same exact parts that I ordered in 2019! Asking for a quote next time. :lol:
> 
> FYI...the Baroness corporate office has moved from Richmond, CA (near San Fran) to Long Beach, CA. Supposedly, having access to the bigger port was part of their decision. @Mightyquinn...Graeme is no longer with the company! :shock:


Yeah, I found out about Graeme a few weeks ago when I was in my local Baroness dealer, I was talking with John and he told me about it. He said that's how he is though and is always moving on to something else. He was with Baroness for quite awhile though.


----------



## Keepin It Reel

TulsaFan said:


> @kalcormier...Do you have an update on your new toy for us?
> 
> @Keepin It Reel...Have you received your parts yet? I finally heard back from the corporate office on Friday in regards to getting my order placed. I should have my parts on Wednesday. I paid double for the same exact parts that I ordered in 2019! Asking for a quote next time. :lol:
> 
> FYI...the Baroness corporate office has moved from Richmond, CA (near San Fran) to Long Beach, CA. Supposedly, having access to the bigger port was part of their decision. @Mightyquinn...Graeme is no longer with the company! :shock:


Yeah I got them last week


----------



## TulsaFan

Keepin It Reel said:


> TulsaFan said:
> 
> 
> 
> @kalcormier...Do you have an update on your new toy for us?
> 
> @Keepin It Reel...Have you received your parts yet? I finally heard back from the corporate office on Friday in regards to getting my order placed. I should have my parts on Wednesday. I paid double for the same exact parts that I ordered in 2019! Asking for a quote next time. :lol:
> 
> FYI...the Baroness corporate office has moved from Richmond, CA (near San Fran) to Long Beach, CA. Supposedly, having access to the bigger port was part of their decision. @Mightyquinn...Graeme is no longer with the company! :shock:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I got them last week
Click to expand...

What did they cost?


----------



## kalcormier

@TulsaFan I've taken her out twice so far. Getting the hang of operating was very easy. I've adjusted the HOC to .8 and groomer to .6. I would like to set the groomer lower but am out of threaded rod similar to an earlier post i saw in here. Still need to swap out smooth roller for the grooved.

I've ran the groomer in both forward and reverse and have struggled with runners getting pulled up but not cut. Maybe because the lawn has never been verticut or groomed? I'm not sure.


----------



## Mightyquinn

@kalcormier Once you get above .5" HOC the groomer almost becomes useless as it won't adjust down further. The Groomer is designed to be used at lower HOC's as it's designed to cut stolons and raise and straighten the grass blades before cutting. At your HOC I would just set it in the Neutral position and mow normally.


----------



## kalcormier

@Mightyquinn Thanks!

I guess I need to line up some sand, so I can go lower.

Also, the machine used to be used to cut at .08. Im assuming they probably have the tournament knife on there. I probably need to go with a 3.0


----------



## Mightyquinn

It probably has the standard 1.5mm bedknife on it as they just came out with a 1.0mm Tournament bedknife. It's always a good idea to have an extra bedknife on hand incase of any accidents that may occur as I have found it is the fastest way to improve the quality of cut if that becomes an issue.


----------



## kalcormier

@Mightyquinn Should I just scalp down to .25 and try to maintain .5?


----------



## Mightyquinn

That's up to you, just know you will be removing a lot of material and probably can't do it all at once.


----------



## kalcormier

Awesome. I'll take it down slowly.


----------



## kalcormier

Turned off groomer. Switched to low FOC. Aftercut is miles better. Need to find air adjusting mechanism. In the manual it looks like the bolt on top the cluch cover?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Air adjusting mechanism???


----------



## kalcormier

To adjusting clipping throw maybe. I thought I read about that in the manual. Like if my clippings aren't being thrown far enough into the catcher.


----------



## kalcormier

Or is it under that cover?


----------



## Mightyquinn

It's the bar right above the reel, you should be able to adjust it with your hand.


----------



## kalcormier

Ohhh. I feel dumb. LOL I was wondering what that bar was there for? If it's the one i'm thinking of. Will have to check when I get back home. Thanks!


----------



## zeus201

I think it is under the cover. I've never messed with mine, but have noticed when using the catcher clippings don't get "flung" into it all that well.


----------



## Mightyquinn

The screws that hold it are under the cover but you should be able to grab the bar and move it up or down depending on what your FOC is set at. I would try it in both positions to see which one works better for you.


----------



## TulsaFan

zeus201 said:


> I've never messed with mine,


+1


----------



## Mightyquinn

TulsaFan said:


> zeus201 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've never messed with mine,
> 
> 
> 
> +1
Click to expand...

I've messed around with it a lot especially during the Spring scalp. But I mow 99% of the time on Low FOC and have it set accordingly.


----------



## zeus201

You guys have inspired me to actually mess around with it now haha


----------



## kalcormier

Thanks everyone! I hate having to stop and push the clippings further in before mowing some more. Its probably one of those things that I'll see what it does, set it, and forget it.


----------



## Mightyquinn

kalcormier said:


> Thanks everyone! I hate having to stop and push the clippings further in before mowing some more. Its probably one of those things that I'll see what it does, set it, and forget it.


I still have this issue when the clippings are dry as they don't get thrown to the back of the catcher and collect in the front. It's never going to fill up perfectly especially if you are trying to completely fill the catcher.


----------



## kalcormier

Thanks @Mightyquinn . Found the adjustment bar. Just laid down my 1st app of T nex today. So clippings should be less going forward.


----------



## TulsaFan

zeus201 said:


> You guys have inspired me to actually mess around with it now haha


Report back with which location works best for your air adjusting plate???


----------



## Tmank87

Anyone have to replace a throttle cable on their unit? The cable on my 66 severed mid cut on Friday.


----------



## Mightyquinn

I have not, but I don't see how it would be any different than any other throttle cable on any other type of equipment. It's just a matter of adjusting it once it's installed, shouldn't be too difficult to do as it's pretty straight forward.


----------



## Tmank87

Mightyquinn said:


> I have not, but I don't see how it would be any different than any other throttle cable on any other type of equipment. It's just a matter of adjusting it once it's installed, shouldn't be too difficult to do as it's pretty straight forward.


Agreed. Need to get the new cable ordered in the morning.


----------



## TulsaFan

Tmank87 said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have not, but I don't see how it would be any different than any other throttle cable on any other type of equipment. It's just a matter of adjusting it once it's installed, shouldn't be too difficult to do as it's pretty straight forward.
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed. Need to get the new cable ordered in the morning.
Click to expand...

I replaced a throttle cable on a mower I sold locally. It was $11.40 in 2020. If you buy your parts from the Corporate office, I would ask for a quote first.


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## Tmank87

TulsaFan said:


> Tmank87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have not, but I don't see how it would be any different than any other throttle cable on any other type of equipment. It's just a matter of adjusting it once it's installed, shouldn't be too difficult to do as it's pretty straight forward.
> 
> 
> 
> Agreed. Need to get the new cable ordered in the morning.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I replaced a throttle cable on a mower I sold locally. It was $11.40 in 2020. If you buy your parts from the Corporate office, I would ask for a quote first.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Appreciate that context.


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## kalcormier

Fuck!! We have our first casualty. Thus far, I've just adjusted HOC and started mowing. I guess I'm about to get familiar with changing the bedknife.


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## zeus201

That sucks. For sure get the bedknife tool from R&R. Of the 3, I cannot which one is best, but somewhere within this thread it is mentioned.

https://www.rrproducts.com/ep/ep-maintenance-tool/ep-maintenance-tool-tools/ep-maintenance-tool-tools-r-r-bed-knife-screw-driver-tool.html

Also, torx screws are the way to go. Again, somewhere within this the correct part # is listed. The manual also has torque specs and pattern required.

Mine was a pain to get off, but impact screw driver, PB blaster and some heat did the trick. But, YMMV!


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## kalcormier

Torx screws, impact wrench, 2 bedknives, Torx bit, john deere bedknife bit, and anti seize ordered. Shoutout to Eastern Turf. Ordered knives Thursday afternoon and received today.

Round 1 - I got 6 screws removed 7 to go.


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## Mightyquinn

You need to get some PB Blaster, that WD40 is only good for cleaning gunk off things


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## ISU

Nothing like the undercarriage of a baroness…&#129315;


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## kalcormier

Ok guys. I need ya'll help. I've got the bedknife replaced. The problem I'm having is, it seems like the reel is maybe off center. I'll have 6 or 7 blades make no contact. The blade with the most damage kind of drags. So that is obvious but I have like 3 blades with no obvious damage that are dragging yhe bedknife. When it gets past that spot it frees up again.

Backed the bedknife all the way off and it doesn't seem like a bearing. Could it be the reel adjustment?

What should I look at next?


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## Mightyquinn

Try backlapping and slowly bring the reel closer to the bedknife. Like, get it to where its just barely touching and start there and then when the sound changes and it seems smoother bring it down(or actually up) a little more. Just make sure you are getting it as even as possible. It may not be possible at first but you should be able to get there. Just FYI, when adjusting the reel to bedknife you are actually bringing the bedknife up to the reel. This may take some time and patience.


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## TulsaFan

kalcormier said:


> Ok guys. I need ya'll help. I've got the bedknife replaced. The problem I'm having is, it seems like the reel is maybe off center. I'll have 6 or 7 blades make no contact. The blade with the most damage kind of drags. So that is obvious but I have like 3 blades with no obvious damage that are dragging yhe bedknife. When it gets past that spot it frees up again.
> 
> Backed the bedknife all the way off and it doesn't seem like a bearing. Could it be the reel adjustment?
> 
> What should I look at next?


Did you use a torque wrench and start from the middle of the bedknife and work out?


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## kalcormier

@TulsaFan Yes. Torque wrench set at 75 in lbs. And followed the bolt pattern.

@Mightyquinn Thanks! I'll have to wait for the backlapping compound to come in. I thought I had read a section about when the diameter of the reel gets smaller there was a way to adjust the reel. But that only makes sense if the bearing housing is adjustable.


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## Keepin It Reel

For you guys with the Independant Arm Grass Catcher, does it squeak like crazy from the metal on metal rubbing up and down?

Mine is extremely noisy to the point it's annoying.


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## Mightyquinn

Mine does occasionally but I never really notice it. You might try to adjust those "T" bars down some and see if that helps or not. The roller for the IGCS should kind of float in those brackets.


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## FoldsPocketAces

So it's taken me the better part of 2 days, but I've read all 53 pages and am ready to join the Baroness club. The issue is I don't see any used for sale online. What auctions should I keep an eye on? I've emailed all the dealers in my area (California) but only 1 got back to me who said he had a couple of used LM56's, and asked how many I wanted. As soon as I told him only 1 as it would be for personal use, he completely stopped communication with me.

Can someone point me in the right direction as to where I should be looking for a used LM56 or LM101?


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## kalcormier

I got mine off of Turfnet.com


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## Mightyquinn

I got my first one off eBay and the 2nd one off some auction in Minnesota. You just got to keep a eye out for them as they do come up every so often but you need to be patient. The whole greens mower market has tightened up in the last few years so things are harder to come by and more expensive.


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## TulsaFan

FoldsPocketAces said:


> So it's taken me the better part of 2 days, but I've read all 53 pages and am ready to join the Baroness club. The issue is I don't see any used for sale online. What auctions should I keep an eye on? I've emailed all the dealers in my area (California) but only 1 got back to me who said he had a couple of used LM56's, and asked how many I wanted. As soon as I told him only 1 as it would be for personal use, he completely stopped communication with me.
> 
> Can someone point me in the right direction as to where I should be looking for a used LM56 or LM101?


I wouldn't be surprised if a few are posted in the marketplace in the fall.

The closest Baroness for sale near me was in March. A TLF member from KC was moving to a bigger lawn. He would have accepted $1,500 before his move which is really cheap in my opinion.

Seems like Eastern Turf in Fayetteville, NC always has used Baroness mowers for sale if you are willing to pay a premium and a really big shipping bill to Cali.


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## DSchlauch

FoldsPocketAces said:


> So it's taken me the better part of 2 days, but I've read all 53 pages and am ready to join the Baroness club. The issue is I don't see any used for sale online. What auctions should I keep an eye on? I've emailed all the dealers in my area (California) but only 1 got back to me who said he had a couple of used LM56's, and asked how many I wanted. As soon as I told him only 1 as it would be for personal use, he completely stopped communication with me.
> 
> Can someone point me in the right direction as to where I should be looking for a used LM56 or LM101?


Try giving  Werhkamp Enterprises  a call, ask for Jared.


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## SC Grass Loon

I thought you guys would get a kick out of this. 
https://twitter.com/JaredDilbone/status/1557143743576379393?s=20&t=i1V6VQKfNvMJlCgiKhj0mA


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## 1FASTSS

Well, the other night while mowing I felt my engagement handle go limp  

Well it seems that the cable nipple broke off. I reached out to my "somewhat local" dealer in Miami about getting a replacement but has anyone come up with a temporary fix until I can get that cable swapped out? Believe it or not its my only mower...thought about getting a rotary for a backup but it looks like only a Honda will would cut down to .75". Was thinking about loosing up the cable enough to put a small clamp on the end of the broken cable and hope a new one comes in fairly quickly.


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## 1FASTSS

1FASTSS said:


> Well, the other night while mowing I felt my engagement handle go limp
> 
> Well it seems that the cable nipple broke off. I reached out to my "somewhat local" dealer in Miami about getting a replacement but has anyone come up with a temporary fix until I can get that cable swapped out? Believe it or not its my only mower...thought about getting a rotary for a backup but it looks like only a Honda will would cut down to .75". Was thinking about loosing up the cable enough to put a small clamp on the end of the broken cable and hope a new one comes in fairly quickly.


Well lucky for me they have the cable in stock. Should have it in hand by Wednesday at the latest. Good thing there is a dealer in the same state I guess


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## learnt

If another dedicated member of TLF wants to take these Baroness stickers I replicated... have at it. Some time back in the thread.. I created them and distributed a few before going inactive (sorry).

They'd be free of charge to whoever would take responsibility. I just found them in some stuff I was clearing out and they really are nice. It'd be good to have them available for new Baroness owners or as needed. 

PM me.


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