# Just Some More Reel Low KBG



## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

The Nuclear Option part 2:

Despite the advise of everyone around me I've decided to kill off my front yard this fall. I did the back this spring with good success and learned a lot. However, the front reno will be a lot more work as I am going to have to do a lot of leveling and will also be installing an in-ground sprinkler system. I wasn't going to go with a low mown bluegrass but after hanging out on here too much I gave it a good consideration. The kicker was watching one of Ward's kids riding a dirt bike on his front lawn without it getting damaged. That's the kind of thick turf I wanted.

Here are my plans in exhaustive detail.

1. Soil test (sent 6/22)
2. Round up 7/12
3. Scalp
4. Round up again 7/20
5. Cut sod out; rental -$110
a. Need to lower the grade to match the hardscapes 
6. Install sprinklers
7. Edging ~110ft
8. Level and roll 
9. Round up again 8/10
a. Planning on adding 1-2" of compost to the sandy soil.
10. Soil amendments- Milorganite, humic acid, others as needed. *Anything else?*
a*. N-Ext RGS- can be applied to seedlings? At seed down?*
b. Any lime needs to go down 2 weeks before seed
11. Seed down 8/13 10lb Seed- 30% bluenote 30% Skye 20% Midnight 20% Everest $131 from SSS
a. Chosen mainly for vigor and disease resistance. Better spring green up and color will be a plus after our long, white winters. *Any suggestions on these cultivars?*
b. Drew is also sending some samples of each individual cultivar so I can do some testing with them.
12. Pre-M: Scotts starter + mesotrione
a. *Do I need to reapply 30 days later?*
13. Seed cover- peat moss and cover grow
a. *Do you seed more shallow when using a cover mulch?*

Irrigation Plans: $515
Tree Lawn
6 Hunter pros-04-prs40 4in bodies
2 Mp-lcs-515
2 Mp-rcs-515 
2 Mp-ss-530

Main Yard 
6 Hunter pros-04-prs40 4in bodies
3 Hunter MP300090
2 Hunter MP200090

L Strip
4 Hunter pros-04-prs40 4in bodies
2 Mp-lcs-515
1 Mp-rcs-515
1 Mp-ss-530

Driveway Strip 
4 Hunter pros-04-prs40 4in bodies
1 Mp-lcs-515
1 Mp-rcs-515
2 Mp-ss-530

Other
HR-2HRP-PUSH Hydro Rain 2 Push Fit Manifold System
Hunter xc400-I or orbit 57946 B-hyve
300 ft 3/4"tubing
100 ft ½" tubing
Blu-loc fittings



This design should give me even head to head coverage with matched precipitation
I went through and calculated the flow rates for each of the 2 zones to make sure my supply could handle it. I also calculated the cost of running the system



Post emergent Fertilization and control:
First mow- *Wait till 3" then work it down or start them low so they never know what it feels like to be tall?*
Tenacity, 2,4-D, and/or Triclopyr ~day 45
0.2 lb/K N from 29-0-5 or milo weekly until Nov 
Winterizer 1lb/k after the last regular season ND game

Spring 2019:
Prodiamine
Plug gaps
Start feeding 0.2lbs/k/week once soil temps hit 55 and continue until soil temp 75
PGR
0.5lb/k/2 weeks milorganite until soil temp drops to 70

Updates:
Water tests: 65psi and 7 gpm so that's good!

Some Pics and soil test to come


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Long before:



Before:


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

This looks like a really solid plan. I'm looking forward to this. Your current lawn looks great. A few comments:

- I would start sprinklers now and uses them to keep the lawn irrigated during the round up phase. It sounds backwards, but you want the grass/weeds growing and not dormant so you could kill them. Also it is easy to underestimate the amount of time it takes to install the pipes.

- in the tree lawn (close to the street). I would not use the strips for a 8ft distance. Their max is 5ft. To keep it at the same rate, I would use the MP1000 on a PS30. Page 8 of this guide  has how to place the strips for your other areas.

- I need to think about the main area with the tree/mulch area. I think it might overwater the tree. Do you plan to keep the tree/mulch? Rectangles (40 x 30) makes it challenge with irrigation that wants squares. Im thinking on 15ft distances to make it even precipitation. How close is the car drive way with the mini van to the heads location?

- get the seed at hand before round up. Sometimes they run out.

- Purdue recommends mowing at 1.5in at first to encourage filling. A push reel from craigslist is nice for these first few cuts. Establishing Turfgrass Areas From Seed


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

g-man said:


> This looks like a really solid plan. I'm looking forward to this. Your current lawn looks great. A few comments:
> 
> - I would start sprinklers now and uses them to keep the lawn irrigated during the round up phase. It sounds backwards, but you want the grass/weeds growing and not dormant so you could kill them. Also it is easy to underestimate the amount of time it takes to install the pipes.


I've still got my crappy impacts set up even though I haven't had to use them this year. Just give it a thorough soaking a few days prior to killing? throw some cheap fert down to push the growth first?
Here's my lawn calendar for the timing of all of the work:




g-man said:


> - in the tree lawn (close to the street). I would not use the strips for a 8ft distance. Their max is 5ft. To keep it at the same rate, I would use the MP1000 on a PS30. Page 8 of this guide  has how to place the strips for your other areas.
> 
> - I need to think about the main area with the tree/mulch area. I think it might overwater the tree. Do you plan to keep the tree/mulch? Rectangles (40 x 30) makes it challenge with irrigation that wants squares. Im thinking on 15ft distances to make it even precipitation. How close is the car drive way with the mini van to the heads location?


For the tree lawn I switched to the strip rotators just to save on costs probably is best to go back to my original plan (well probably iteration 5 or 6, see below) which was the mp1000 on the ps30. Think these should be on their own zone or will they match fine with the other strip?

The massive mulch bed around the crabapple is going to get brought in by about 3ft diameter. I thought trees usually sucked up more water than the surrounding areas? I also originally went with 15ft spray but cut back to 2 20s and 4 30s to cut back on costs a bit. At ~$10 a sprinkler it adds up quick. I have about 5 feet between my property and the neighbors drive.





g-man said:


> - get the seed at hand before round up. Sometimes they run out.
> 
> - Purdue recommends mowing at 1.5in at first to encourage filling. A push reel from craigslist is nice for these first few cuts. Establishing Turfgrass Areas From Seed


copy that. Ordering seed today.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Seed came in yesterday from SSS 10lb of my mix and Drew also through in some extra of the individual cultivars so I can do some testing and see how the individual ones perform. Wish I was home to plant some plugs but we're on vacation for the next week.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Soil test came back. everything looks decent except a little low on k and a little high on p. pretty easy to fix. pH looks great which was a surprise. overall not too worried. the compost i've been using is a different story so I started its own thread.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

This looks good. CEC of 11 and almost 4% of OM. I would use SOP (0-0-50) instead of MOP (0-0-60) and use AS instead of urea since it is close to 7.0. Other than that, it is great lawn growing soil.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

When your lawn is dead and still barely getting dominated by the neighbors...



Anyways, 2 rounds of glyphosate down a week apart got a pretty good kill. Sod is coming out to level everything down sometime next week.

Plugs were planted 8 days ago and already have almost everything germinating. Used 3"x3" plug trays to match my 3" plugging tool


Midnight was the first up followed by Everest then skye and finally bluenote has very little germination yet. This is surprising as based on the NTEP trials I would've expected Bluenote to be up first. It may have to do with where each tray is under the sprinkler head.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Started cutting out the sod tonight after work. Got it all cut and have just started rolling it up. Had to cut down almost 2.5" on the tree lawn to get it close to level with the concrete. I can now see why my OM is so high. lots of dead, decomposing roots in the soil from the old pine tree that used to be in the front yard.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

The old grass is all out and ready for sprinkler install and leveling. ended up taking out more than 6" in some areas with the tractor to bring it down to the rough level of the concrete


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

The irrigation system and the leveling work was finished earlier this week so seed finally went down last night at about 5lb for 1500 sqft with scotts starter milo and peat moss. Bought myself a roller which helps a ton with keeping the seed in place with the rain we got last night. The only problem is that there is a stray cat using my nice level lawn as a litter box. any ideas how to keep pests out?

pics are before the seed went down i'll take some more tonight. fingers crossed for good germination!


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## Budstl (Apr 19, 2017)

Great thread dude. You put in some work. I'll be interested to see the pots. How many bales of peat did you use?


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

Nice work! Looking forward to the progress.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Thanks guys!

Day 0- Seed down with 3.5 3 cuft bales of peat moss covering





The plugs are 37 days old and doing well. the Bluenote plugs are finally taking off. Im pretty sure they just got washed out because of their position under my crappy old sprinkler. I've got a spare mp rotor body I mounted on the stake from a impact that I'm just waiting on another nozzle from SprinklerWarehouse to show up (always waiting on them).





Everyone says to put down KBG seed light and let it spread. Here is the proof:



The bottom right most 2 plugs were planted with as few seeds as a could get, the rest i just threw it down. The thinner seedlings are already on to their 3rd or 4th leaves while the rest have maybe 2. Now I'm worried i went too heavy with my seed on the front.

I also want to show progress of my Rose of Sharon transplant project. The bush came from a friend of my mom's so I decided to try to do something fun with it cause it was free and I wasn't attached to it yet. I trimmed it way back to the 3 best shoots I could and braided them. I'm going to keep it is a little tree rather than a full bush. It currently is struggling and was down to 2 leaves that were left green. its starting to put out some more finally to hopefully I didn't completely kill it. Time will tell.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

I didn't sleep well listening to the thunderstorm wash away my yard. It wasn't as strong as some people in the area got but still about an inch overnight into already saturated soil. I went out this morning to assess the damage and it wasn't too bad just a few areas washed out.





But when I looked closer in the areas without peat moss I found grass babies popping up! 5 days for germination is pretty good in my book.


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## STL (Jul 14, 2018)

@OnyxsLawn congrats on the germination!

For plots/plugs, have you considered bottom watering? It works really well, especially after germination, and promotes deep roots. It's easier to manage than top watering too ime.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

bottom watering? as in just leave the plugs in a tray of water? I have trays but left them out because I didn't want them to sit in a pool of water. 
I just planted a second round of plugs so the sprinkler is on seedling mode again but I will need a good way of watering them once I move the farm indoors for winter.


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

@OnyxsLawn

Check out this article about seeding KBG. I look forward to seeing your progress. You have put a ton of work in. It is going to look nice.

http://sturf.lib.msu.edu/article/2009apr58.pdf


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## STL (Jul 14, 2018)

@OnyxsLawn yes, bottom watering via a tray with some water that you refill as needed. Check out this article from ATY for some basics. I've done it twice now and it works well. I typically use flexible 6inch plastic pots but did some 12inch too.

https://aroundtheyard.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=162:growing-sod-in-pots&catid=9&Itemid=117


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

@wardconnor Good read, glad to know i can keep the tenacity down heavy until the 60 day mark when i can put down some prodiamine. I plan on spraying 0.5lbs N/k from urea to feed starting around 4 weeks old to push it to establish, however it looks like its coming in pretty thick.

@STL i wish my plugs looked that full at 5 weeks. Going to fertilize today and put the old set in trays to get the roots stretching so i can plant in 2-3 weeks. Thoughts on the depth of the 6" pots vs my low trays affecting how much water they can take in the tray?


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## STL (Jul 14, 2018)

@OnyxsLawn depending on how deep they are, maybe 1/2 inch. Bottom watering is pretty easy once you get the hang of it. Hardest part is probably finding a level spot and misting til germination.

If you fertilize though, fair warning to be a little careful with how much you give them. I fried a few of my pots once with way too much. It's essentially a closed circuit so probably less is more. My pots did recover but it took a while. I don't think you NEED to fertilize them to get the job done.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Day 10

The lawn is covered in a nice green fuzz. only have one spot that doesn't have any germination from washing out next to the sidewalk. good thing I have plenty of plugs.



I moved the plug farm into trays to start bottom watering them. some of the taller ones got their first cut at ~1.5". I also gave them a quick mist with some liquid fert I sprayed on the back.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Day 14





everything is filling in nicely, although the tree lawn is a little thinner than the rest. likely because it hasn't been getting as much water due to one of my new valves sticking. I'll swap it out once the new one comes.



now that the temps have cooled off and everything appears to have germinated that is going to im going to back the watering down by half to 3x per day. Some weeds are also starting to come up but i'll hold off on tenacity reapply till day 28
I'm also struggling to keep leaves off the lawn from the neighbors locust tree thats already dropping leaves. i've been blowing what I can off daily.


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## iowa jim (Jan 22, 2018)

To reapply tenacity you are suppose to wait 30 days from your germination date or after 2 mows.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Good catch. I'll move the tenacity back a week and probably weed by hand the week before once i get the courage to walk on the grass babies.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Planted some plugs on my day off to fill in the bare spots in the reno. The 3" square plugger matches perfectly to the trays I planted in. The roots looked pretty good. Ideally I think i'd let them grow another week or 2 to really fill in the roots but the grass grows faster in the ground so I figured WTH.







Unfortunately my worst fears are most likely true and I have a leak in the lateral going to the tree lawn so i've been watering it by hand. my plan is to let the grass fill in enough to where I can cut out a decent chunk of sod fix the leak and then lay the sod back down.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Day 20

Mowed for the first time today at 1.5". Probably about 30% of the seedlings got cut. I also pulled a decent amount of crabgrass thats been coming up. hopefully the drop in temps should slow it germinating till I can hit everything with tenacity again.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Awesome. You can hand pull the crabgrass. No need to wait for tenacity.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

I'm not convinced I got all of the roots pulling up the crabgrass so I'd like to smoke them with some chemicals assuming I won't hurt the grass. There's a fair amount of broadleaf weeds that germinated in the area that used to be mulch bed around the crabapple.

@g-man Are you saying I can apply Tenacity now? Also can it be tank mixed safely with fertilizer?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

The roots don't matter. Crabgrass dies in the winter.

Tenacity can be applied 30days post germination. What I meant was by pulling, you don't need to wait for tenacity to get rid of weeds.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

:thumbup:


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Day 28
Grass is loving the colder weather we've been having. highs in the mid 70's and cool nights to keep the soil temp down. Its been mowed twice now and got its first feeding of 0.25 lb/k N from sprayed urea today. Onyx also is allowed back on the front lawn. No frisbee or potty breaks but at least enough to be with me while I weed and work on the sprinklers.







Question of foliar fertilizer on seedlings: how long should I wait before washing it off. I know it absorbs the most it can after about 4 hours. If I sprayed at 6pm am I fine waiting for the morning irrigation cycle or should I run the sprinklers after 4 hours to be safe? I really don't want to burn the new grass.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Fine in the am on a mature lawn, I never tried it on a young one. Make sure you have plenty of carrier (2gallon/M) and it should be ok.

By the way it looks great.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Dealing with a problem that I found this morning.







Sorry for the bad pictures but its what I could get at my lunch break. 
My thought is either just heat stress (mid to high 80s here the last 5 days) or fungus. Haven't seen any mycelium in the morning and the leaves appear to just be shriveled and dead not covered in lesions. This is also the sunniest part of the yard. 
I sprayed 1/4 lb N from 18-3-6 and propiconazole @ 2 oz/k.

Is there anything else I can do to keep this from spreading? Should I water more? I held off on the Tenacity app to keep from stressing the grass even more.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I dont see signs of a fungus. Maybe some nitrogen burn and looks very dry. What is your current watering regime? It's 90F in indy and I'm not taking any chances and I'm keeping it moist.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

I've been watering 20 min at 8 am with the mp's everyday up until saturday when i let it dry out a bit so i could mow. Didn't water sunday either and then put down 0.5" monday morning trying to move to 1" per week normal schedule. I think i jumped the gun on cutting back the watering I'll set it to run more today. and keep up with the once daily and hopefully once the temps drop again I can water a little deeper. thoughts on throwing a little peat moss down to help water retention? Thats ones of the sandiest areas of the yard.


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## ABC123 (Jul 14, 2017)

It's been 90 and really windy for me. Been having to do 20min at 5am and a extra 20 every other day at 8am. Depending on how my walk around looks at 5pm I'll give some zones another 8-10 min. It's cooling off now so every other day might be more realistic after it recovers.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I would at least match the daily ET. I'm at .15in ET. On a mps, that's 22.5min

The grass doesn't have deep roots yet, so I can't draw water from the deep sections yet. Since you also have sandy soil, it will hold on to less water. Therefore the top 1-2in will dry out faster and will need to be watered.

Once you start adding fertilizer, it will force some grow, which means more water. I would target 30min per day until the weather improves.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

70's and rainy next week so hopefully that helps. I doubt its going to recover as I don't think the seedlings can recover from the heat stress. I'll just dump a lot of water on that area so that whatever hasn't died is saved. fingers crossed.

@@ABC123 how old is your grass?


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

@g-man Do you have a good source of ET numbers? Guess if I'm gonna push growth I need to water to match it. Lesson learned. Now I just wish I hadn't planted the rest of my plugs in the back yard.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I calculate mine in my log file from weather underground data.

I think you could get it at iclimate.org (reference and then convert to cool season lawn).


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Looks like one of my mps wasn't rotating and leaving a nice wedge underwatered. cleaned it and all should be good now.


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## ABC123 (Jul 14, 2017)

OnyxsLawn said:


> 70's and rainy next week so hopefully that helps. I doubt its going to recover as I don't think the seedlings can recover from the heat stress. I'll just dump a lot of water on that area so that whatever hasn't died is saved. fingers crossed.
> 
> @@ABC123 how old is your grass?


That should help a lot! Day 39 from seed down. Don't worry, I had areas die off from too much reel traffic around day 25 and it's resprouting.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Good to hear! The predicted warm fall should push the kbg to spread. Just in case though I started plug farm 3. Plug farm 2 got trampled by the dogs.


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## STL (Jul 14, 2018)

OnyxsLawn said:


> Looks like one of my mps wasn't rotating and leaving a nice wedge underwatered. cleaned it and all should be good now.


Glad you got it sorted out. Did you clean the filter on the nozzle? One of mine is sticking too and will try cleaning before I replace it.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Yeah, pulled it off and dunked it in a bucket of water to dislodge any sand. Seemed to help for now.


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## SW315 (Sep 10, 2018)

OnyxsLawn said:


> Soil test came back. everything looks decent except a little low on k and a little high on p. pretty easy to fix. pH looks great which was a surprise. overall not too worried. the compost i've been using is a different story so I started its own thread.


I see they list several soil tests on their site, which one did yo have them do for you?


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Just the S1 basic test. I am mostly worried about the macros, CEC, and pH for getting the lawn established. Not too worried about micronutrients right now. In the future I may add the S3 too.

edit: if you open up the lawn and garden submit form I used that and the basic test was all i did. the lawn and garden form gets you recommendations. The normal soil test does not


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## SW315 (Sep 10, 2018)

OnyxsLawn said:


> Just the S1 basic test. I am mostly worried about the macros, CEC, and pH for getting the lawn established. Not too worried about micronutrients right now. In the future I may add the S3 too.
> 
> edit: if you open up the lawn and garden submit form I used that and the basic test was all i did. the lawn and garden form gets you recommendations. The normal soil test does not


Thanks, I appreciate it. I like the simplicity of the report.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

I did too. They had a fast turnaround time and being that they mostly do agricultural reports you get accuracy without all the frills. I thought about doing the testing myself but for only $20 to have it done it wasn't worth the effort.

P.S. Welcome! It's good to have some more Indiana folks around here.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Progress:
Day 10

Day 14

Day 35


The dry spot hasn't grown at all so I think I have it under control. I put down peat moss in that area to help hold the moisture which is why that area looks so brown in the pictures. I've been watering a ton to help it bounce back if possible. 
Mowed again last night and its starting to get difficult to push the Fiskars through. May have to pull the trigger on a greens mower before winter like originally planned to get some good stripes going. Tenacity reapp will go down tonight.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

How often are you mowing with the fiskars? and what hoc? does is cut paper? It should only be hard if it is not frequent enough.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Trying to mow every other day but it went 4 days last time because I made a deal with my wife I would finish writing a paper before I mowed again. I'll try to keep up on every other day in the future. HOC is still 1.5"

As far as adjustment I was seeing some blades crimped but not cut so I checked the reel and it wasn't cutting folded paper So i adjusted it on both sides so it cut single paper across the whole reel. it may be a little tight but it cuts well so I'm not gonna mess with it for a bit. It mostly only bogs down towards the end of a run when I'm not walking as fast. I don't think its a problem just a sign that the grass is getting thicker.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Oh I see your problem: "made a deal with the wife".  Just beg for forgiveness or say the guys at the forum said to mow every day for the next month but you are doing it every other day.


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## ABC123 (Jul 14, 2017)

It's looking fantastic! If your having trouble cutting try to face the bedknife with either a file or bedknife buddy to remove the burr. It seems like a lot of reel owners are forgeting this step and I believe it's a more crucial task and should be done more frequent than backlapping as it's very crucial to have a 90* cutting edge on the knife.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Day 44

Grass is loving the cooler weather and is filling in really nicely. the area that got stressed from being dry is actually coming back nicely. Now though its pretty bleach from a tenacity application (3/4 tsp in 3 gal over 1500 sqft) and a few other places are showing bleaching but nothing too bad.



Mowing every other day at 1.5" has been enough to keep to the 1/3 rule. pushed the urea app to 0.4 lb N/K without any burning. Planning to spray more 18-3-6 with iron on Sunday to try to get it to darken up a bit and to address the K deficiency without overloading on K before winter. Thinking of dropping the HOC to 1" to encourage some more spreading and get ready for a true greens mower in the spring. Too much stress on the new grass? Will the extra leaf area help bring more energy into the roots for winter as the days get shorter?



Plug farm 3.0 finally has germination. It took 5 days longer for this seeding to germinate over the reno. Hopefully they fill in enough before winter to transplant.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Thats really good coverage going into winter. I would keep it at 1.5in going into winter.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

I've been having problems with squirrels digging in the new grass either looking for or burying nuts. I figured I could mix in a bit of cayenne pepper to one of my fertilizer applications to help deter critters. 
PSA: Don't

Clogged everything in my sprayer and had to thoroughly clean it to use it again. On the plus side I did a little recon work while I had everything apart.



Alright on to the grass. How about a nice progression since I'm almost at 2 months and the grass likely won't be growing much more since temps have gone from the 80s to 40s in a day.

Day 10


Day 29


Day 57


I spent way too much time using the rotary to vacuum up leaves with quadruple passes and a blower to clean up the stragglers followed by a cut with the reel, all to just to get a good shot since the color is finally darkening. 




While cleaning up leaves I came across these: :evil:



Poa A?


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## Colonel K0rn (Jul 4, 2017)

Man, that's a terrific transformation that you've done on your lawn. Great job. That does look like Poa A.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

It doesn't look like poa a to me. The blades looks too wide and the seed pattern is different.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

I didn't really think so either but the seed head in the fall seems weird.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Day 85. Likely the final post of the season. Cleaned up most of the leaves yesterday and mowed and barely cut anything off. Overall its looking pretty good going into winter. couple inches of snow predicted for tomorrow and next week.





There are a few spots that have lightened in color. Should I worry about fungus or is it just winter dormancy? Mostly in the area I had watering issues with earlier in the year.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

The last image looks like leaf spot. Since the lawn is not growing, I don't think a fungicide would be effective. Keep an eye on it in the spring. Congrats on your Reno. I bet onyx likes having a lawn to play with.


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## OnyxsLawn (Mar 15, 2018)

Will the freezing and snow kill off leaf spot? 
He's loving being able to follow me around while I do yard work again. He's still not allowed on the front unattended though cause the urine has destroyed my back yard enough.


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