# My first soil test - Southern Alberta



## tvo (Aug 31, 2020)

Hello,

I joined & have been reading & learning from this forum since after my front lawn renovation in June 2020. The renovation was a huge success considering I did it only watching Ryan Knorr and Grassdaddy's videos. If I had known about this forum before the renovation, it would've been even better. I've learned so much more about lawn care since, thanks to all of you on here.

Anyway, this is my first soil test I did this spring.

Front lawn:



Back lawn:



I really want to do something about the pH but reading on here, it's almost impossible to lower something that high. I will attempt it anyway since I have 15 lb of citric acid laying around. I don't know where to get affordable elemental sulfur in Alberta (which is funny because we produce a lot of natural gas here and sulfur is a byproduct - I have no idea who/where they sell it to).

I also have 5lb of Manganese Sulfate Monohydrate (32% Mn) coming from Amazon. According to Waypoint, I should add 0.1 lb of Mn/M, which is about 0.3 lb of MSM. Does it hurt if I add more than that - let's say 1 lb of MSM (0.32lb Mn)/M? Or should I bother with Mn at all?

Thanks for any recommendation with these and any other things you guys think can be improved from my soil tests.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Ridgerunner in his soil test thread strongly recommends a tissue test before applying any micronutrients. The limit he found for manganese is 0.8 oz/1000 sq ft. per application. Notice that is ounces, not pounds.

Here is some info on a vinegar test for calcareous soil and whether pH can be reduced:
https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/publication/HS1262
Ammonium sulfate is the most acidic nitrogen fertilizer and could help a bit in lowering pH. You can apply FAS for iron which isn't available at high pH. Some info is in the soil remediation guide (and even more details in other threads):
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=15165

Your CEC (cation exchange capacity) is high, indicating the soil holds onto nutrients very well.


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## doverosx (Aug 7, 2019)

The grass factor has a good video on lowering pH, give it a watch because Matt Martin refers to the "long game" of having high pH.

It seems that adding elemental sulfur and citric acid are good to get the ball rolling but you're looking at a long game with continued sulfur/CA and ammonium sulfate.


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## tvo (Aug 31, 2020)

@Virginiagal Wow, for some reason I totally missed Ridgerunner's thread all this time. I'm reading through all that great info right now.

I have a collection of quite a few different fertilizers - AMS, urea, 20-10-10, Scotts 32-0-10, a few other partly organic ferts, chicken feed. Now knowing of my high pH, I will use AMS more often but still have to try to use up the other stuffs eventually somehow. I also started spraying FAS after the reno last year but haven't started it this season yet. This season, Anuew PGR will join in with the FAS mix.

@doverosx With regard to citric acid application, I did watch the grassfactor's video (probably from your link in another thread). That's why I immediately ordered it from Amazon after receiving my soil test results. I'm very eager to try applying it some time soon. Maybe I'll try it in the back lawn first just in case something bad happens lol.

Thanks for the replies, guys & gals. Any other insights are welcomed.


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## doverosx (Aug 7, 2019)

The soil mediation thread is pretty awesome isn't it?

I'll keep an eye on your progress, but I've seen a lot of people show that you *can* reduce pH only for them to then conclude; No, not worth it. IMO, from the data and if your budget allows, you can continue to produce a lowered pH. I understand Green's perspective though, use the money on other products like watering agents, mowing quality, irrigation and those benefits will outweigh the cost of sulfur/CA.

In my situation, it was $25 for a 50lbs bag of sulfur...so I'm going to send it lol.


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## tvo (Aug 31, 2020)

I've just came outside and applied 1.1 lb of CA to my back yard with a handheld spreader then watered it in. It worked great even though the CA grains are the same size as table salt, thanks to low wind, still had to crouch to get it as close to the ground as I can. That saved me the trouble of firing up my backpack sprayer and mixing etc.

I'll see in a few days if the grass is ok with this. Then I'll try it in the front yard.

If I could find sulfur here I would throw it down as well. I'm wondering if too high sulfur ppm has any detrimental effect though? (Since my soil, especially backyard, has pretty high sulfur already).


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