# OSU Extension $10 Soil Test Results...



## TulsaFan (May 1, 2017)

I received my OSU Extension $10 Soil Test results today and they are as follows:

pH 7.6 - Adequate
Nitrogen 8.0 - Low (Normal is 40)
Phosphorus 26 - Low (Normal is 65)
Potassium 275 - Adequate (Normal is 250)

They suggested that I immediately put down 10 lbs/per 1,000 square feet of 10-20-10

Then, wait 40 days and apply ONE of the following three options:
3 lbs/1,000 square feet of 34-0-0
2 lbs/1,000 square feet of 46-0-0
5 lbs/1,000 square feet of 21-0-0-20

If I use quick release fertilizer, I am to following this schedule:
May
June
July
August

If I use slow release fertilizer, I am to following this schedule:
June
August

What do you guys think of their advice?


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## c0mical (Apr 8, 2018)

My (noob) opinion, I would take their advice. It IS a university after all, and they study your grass in your area. They are the experts then, right? I would opt toward a slow release, organic fertilizer.


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

Personally, I wouldn't push the zoysia that hard. I would probably shoot for 1/2 lb of nitrogen per month max. So I would alter your plan to use the 10-20-10 (if you can find it) at 5lbs/1000 for each of your first two apps, then switch to 2lbs/1000 of the 21-0-0 ammonium sulfate plus one bag of Milo (mixed into your whole lot) each app.


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## TulsaFan (May 1, 2017)

Spammage said:


> Personally, I wouldn't push the zoysia that hard. I would probably shoot for 1/2 lb of nitrogen per month max. So I would alter your plan to use the 10-20-10 (if you can find it) at 5lbs/1000 for each of your first two apps, then switch to 2lbs/1000 of the 21-0-0 ammonium sulfate plus one bag of Milo (mixed into your whole lot) each app.


Thanks @Spammage!!! I thought it looked like a lot of fertilizer for the zoysia. Most likely, they didn't want to account for both species of grass and just gave me their opinion on what to do for the bermuda.

I paid $10. So, perhaps I should have submitted two different tests for each grass type. 

I am going to take your opinion on the zoysia and theirs on the bermuda. FYI...Lowe's and Atwoods has 10-20-10 fertilizer in the Tulsa area.


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

:thumbup:


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## TulsaFan (May 1, 2017)

TulsaFan said:


> I received my OSU Extension $10 Soil Test results today and they are as follows:
> 
> pH 7.6 - Adequate
> Nitrogen 8.0 - Low (Normal is 40)
> ...


So, I redid the soil test again this year and made sure to only test my Zoysia grass soil. After following their directions, my results are *worse* after one year: :shock:

pH 8.0 - Adequate
Nitrogen 1 - Low (Normal is 40)
Phosphorus 19 - Low (Normal is 65)
Potassium 255 - Adequate (Normal is 250)

They suggested the same thing as last year:

I should immediately put down 10 lbs/per 1,000 square feet of 10-20-10

Then, wait 40 days and apply ONE of the following three options:
3 lbs/1,000 square feet of 34-0-0
2 lbs/1,000 square feet of 46-0-0
5 lbs/1,000 square feet of 21-0-0-20

What the heck? I have earthworms all over my yard kicking up tiny dirt mounds. I thought things were getting better. I am going to do a different soil test next. Any suggestions for this year (I am going to call them on Monday)?


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## TommyTester (Jul 3, 2018)

TulsaFan said:


> Any suggestions for this year (I am going to call them on Monday)?


As g-man has pointed out, phosphorous mainly sits near the surface, so if your samples contained mostly soil below 2 inches, then the test results will read low for P, and thus the recommendations will be off. Samples should include soil from 0"-X", with X being the depth of the witnessed root zone (sometimes only ~3 inches).


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## TulsaFan (May 1, 2017)

TommyTester said:


> As g-man has pointed out, phosphorous mainly sits near the surface, so if your samples contained mostly soil below 2 inches, then the test results will read low for P, and thus the recommendations will be off. Samples should include soil from 0"-X", with X being the depth of the witnessed root zone (sometimes only ~3 inches).


Using a soil probe with a piece of tape to indicate the depth, I followed these directions: _*"Using a trowel, shovel or soil probe, obtain six inch samples of soil, removing all grass and trash. Obtain at least ten (10) or more random sub-samples from the area you want tested. Divide the area and follow a random pattern when sampling. Avoid unusual spots, like a wet area, and try to obtain a representative sample."*_

So, the 6" samples might explain the low phosphorus results. However, the nitrogen score of 1 seems ridiculously low. As @Spammage pointed out last year, 10 lbs/per 1,000 sq ft of 10-20-10 seems really high for zoysia.


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

@TulsaFan I think your idea to get it tested by another lab is a good idea. I'm not saying that OSU is wrong, but it won't hurt to get another opinion. You could also try to get a sample to them with soil from the 2-4" depth to see if your results vary.

How was your grass growing last year? Good growth, color and health would indicate to me that the nitrogen level is ok, and that their testing or your sampling may be off.

I also wouldn't want to put down that much K since your levels are good and it could raise that pH even more. If you do need both N and P, look for MAP 11-52-0, or MESZ at 12-40-0 (MAP, Elemental Sulfur, Zinc). 2-2.5 lbs per 1000 supplemented with some additional N monthly should be good.


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

@TulsaFan a second opinion always helps... I used 3 different labs in the past and have settled on WayPoint Analytical as my lab of choice. Between testing and speaking with Waypoint (awesome folks) plus suggestions from TLF I think things will work well. Waypoint is $30 for the test I get and I think the cheapest one is $16.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

What (10-20-10,, 34-0-0, 21-0-0 etc) and how much lbs/M did you apply between the two tests?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I'm not sure what type of nitrogen they are testing for. Nitrogen testing is kinda of pointless since it can move thru the soil fairly fast.

Address the P and K and apply nitrogen that your turf needs. Per this report I would only do P. The pH of 8.0 means that iron is not as available to the roots, so foliar will avoid chloriosis.


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## HoosierLawnGnome (Sep 28, 2017)

Wheres the analysis of the TEC, organic matter, and major cations in that test?

Also dont put down 10 lbs per k of 10 20 10. That's too much P at once.

And yeah zoysia doens need the fert like Bermuda wants....


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## TulsaFan (May 1, 2017)

I spoke with a horticulturist from the OSU extension today. She checked the numbers that were hand written and my numbers were indeed correct. I asked her about the 10 lbs/per 1,000 square feet of 10-20-10 being too much for my zoysia. She stated she has a zoysia lawn and my lawn could handles those numbers.

Lastly, I asked about using masonry sand to smooth my lawn because I have been told by the local sod farms to not do it. She had no objections to it whatsoever other than to not smother the grass with obviously too much sand. I guess the late May sand beach is a go! :thumbup:


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Check with greendoc on the zoysia reel low and nitrogen. I think it could be too much.

For iron, the best tool will be foliar. This thread has a lot of info. Since you have a small yard, FEature will be a good option.


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

@TulsaFan It's not about whether the grass will survive, it's about maintaining it properly. If you push that much at it, you may end up with a puffy mess. Does she maintain hers at <1"?


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## TulsaFan (May 1, 2017)

I appreciate all the help and input from everyone!!! Just telling you what was said by OSU.

I have always been hesitant to sand my lawn. As stated before, my local sod guy told me to not do it. So, the $20 for the past two years soil tests was worth her telling me to go ahead and do the smoothing. I guess @wardconnor was right all along and there is no fear of turning my lawn into concrete. :thumbup:


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