# St Augustine Grey Spot Recovery



## Cman (May 4, 2018)

I purchased a house from a single lady who did not like to go outside. As a result the yard was neglected for over 20yrs. I inherited this yard with all 4 of the 4 season grasses. I have what I believe to be both Emerald and Z-52 Zoysia, St Augustine, Common Bermuda, and Centipede. I also had several trees removed and there are lots of bare ground. The predominant grass type is St Augustine. I joined the forum looking for help because earlier this year all I had was clover and weeds. I have been trying to push the grass hoping to get it to fill in the bare spots with whatever grass type is adjacent to. I received my soil sample back early in the year and my soil was very acidic.

I am using this yard to learn and hope to do a full sod renovation in the next 1 -2 years. In the meantime it is my goal to just push growth make mistakes and learn everything I can before that time. This forum has been a tremendous resource and my yard is almost entirely weed free after just one full rate application of Celcius. It is amazing.

Here is what I have done so far which is probably why I have such bad Grey Spot.

*4/6/2018 *
4lbs/1000 of 24-2-11 (1lb/1000 N)
4lbs/1000 of Pelletized Lime

*4/30/2018*
Core Aerate

*5/03/2018*
12lb/1000 of Pelletized Lime
High rate broadcast Celcius application for broadleaf weeds high rate stunted the growth of the St Augustine for almost 2 weeks.

*5/16/2018 *
4lbs/1000 of 24-2-11 (1lb/1000 N)

*6/4/18*
Significant rain event from tropical storm. I noticed the fungus starting right before I left for a work trip. Returned 3 days later and all of the St Augusine was covered in Grey Leaf Spot.

What did I do wrong and what can I do about it now? Should I treat with a preventative fungicide or can I treat it now? Would an Iron application help? Should I stop with nitrogen applications? Would love any advice.


----------



## Ecks from Tex (Apr 26, 2018)

You need a fungicide.

Eagle 20, Clearys, Heritage G, all should help. Maybe even tank mix two fungicides of different modes of action.

My guess is the dead grass blades is from the Celsius. It's the best post-emergent herbicide option for your grass, but it still will put the hurt on the grass in warmer temperatures.

Wait a couple of weeks on the iron, but if your normal fertilizer does not have iron it's always a good idea to put some on the lawn separately.

Your fertilizers seem fine, so I would probably keep it as-is. In fact, in the growing season you probably need to push more growth to help the St. Aug thicken up. It is thin because it is damaged and probably in poor soil conditions. So rectifying those issues, and then pushing growth with nitrogen, will be the ticket for you. Plus, damaged grass needs to grow in order to push through the injury, so you can continue to mow it and new growth can start to emerge.


----------



## CenlaLowell (Apr 21, 2017)

I had a similar problem in my yard. Yes, it is a fungus I used propiconazole 14.3 and I hope like hell it works.


----------



## Cman (May 4, 2018)

Thanks for the response @Ecks from Tex . I will get back on the fertilizer just wanted to hold off until I knew what to do about the fungus. I will try eagle 20. I have a site one nearby that I think I can get it.

@CenlaLowell Let me know how yours works out. I really should gotten on this earlier but analysis paralysis kicked in and I was not certain what to do. Unfortunately I will be out of town for the next 6 days but this will be my first chore when I get back. Hope it isn't to late by then.


----------



## Ecks from Tex (Apr 26, 2018)

Cman said:


> Thanks for the response @Ecks from Tex . I will get back on the fertilizer just wanted to hold off until I knew what to do about the fungus. I will try eagle 20. I have a site one nearby that I think I can get it.
> 
> @CenlaLowell Let me know how yours works out. I really should gotten on this earlier but analysis paralysis kicked in and I was not certain what to do. Unfortunately I will be out of town for the next 6 days but this will be my first chore when I get back. Hope it isn't to late by then.


It will be there when you get back, that's just how it goes sometimes. Once you get your initial problems under control, let's talk soil conditions because I suspect that may be a cause of your thin grass this year.


----------



## CenlaLowell (Apr 21, 2017)

Cman said:


> Thanks for the response @Ecks from Tex . I will get back on the fertilizer just wanted to hold off until I knew what to do about the fungus. I will try eagle 20. I have a site one nearby that I think I can get it.
> 
> @CenlaLowell Let me know how yours works out. I really should gotten on this earlier but analysis paralysis kicked in and I was not certain what to do. Unfortunately I will be out of town for the next 6 days but this will be my first chore when I get back. Hope it isn't to late by then.


I'm also thinking about buying a class 11 fungicide also, putting it down in 30 days. I'll keep in touch letting you know how the first one works out.


----------



## Cman (May 4, 2018)

Went out and bought some Eagle fungicide which its active ingredient is myuclobutanil. According to this article from the Alabama Cooperative Extension it seems as though this active ingredient is not control grey leaf spot on St Augustine Grass. I may go back and see if I can pick up some Heritage granular instead. It is a good bit more but dont want to put something down that will not work for me.

http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-0621/ANR-0621.pdf


----------



## Florida_Man (Jun 30, 2018)

Cman said:


> Went out and bought some Eagle fungicide which its active ingredient is myuclobutanil. According to this article from the Alabama Cooperative Extension it seems as though this active ingredient is not control grey leaf spot on St Augustine Grass.


Never heard that before. Anyone else have experience with Myclobutanil/Eagle 20EW not being effective for Gray Leaf Spot in St Augustine? Propiconazole vs Myclobutanil?

Scott's has an Azoxystrobin product that is a bit cheaper than Heritage also...


----------



## Cman (May 4, 2018)

This article I found this article from Clemson in one of the other threads and says that it is works "Fair" on Grey Leaf spot. Because I had already purchased it I went ahead and put it out in granular form. We will see if it works out.

https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/gray-leaf-spot-on-st-augustinegrass/


----------



## Ecks from Tex (Apr 26, 2018)

Cman said:


> This article I found this article from Clemson in one of the other threads and says that it is works "Fair" on Grey Leaf spot. Because I had already purchased it I went ahead and put it out in granular form. We will see if it works out.
> 
> https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/gray-leaf-spot-on-st-augustinegrass/


I am pretty sure that other article is wrong. Grey leaf spot in general is difficult to get under control and usually requires multiple applications of fungicides with different modes of action. But Eagle 20 should get you on the right path so I agree with your decision to use it despite the article. Now understand that after you apply, your grass is probably going to look worse before it gets better. That's just a product of the fungicide's mode of action.


----------



## Cman (May 4, 2018)

Thanks for giving me the warning. I wasn't aware that it was going to make it look worse. Now I wont be worried when i start to see that. really appreciate all the help everyone has provided.


----------



## LowCountryCharleston (Jun 21, 2018)

Yeah I put down a fungicide the other day for Grey Spot and rightnow it doesn't look good. Hoping it starts to make the turn for the better soon.


----------



## HewKnowHew (Jul 4, 2018)

What's up yall?! I am facing the same issues my lawn. I have put down a bag or headway G (has worked the best for me), I have put an application of Propiconazole 14.3 and Eagle 20 and I just can't shake this fungus. I have also been using Milorganite(I am now off that ban wagon), N-ext products (RGS, Microgreem, Air8)...and I think that's it. I took a soil sample and know I need some potassium in my soil...so from this information and from you guys that have dealt with or are curently dealing with this offer me any advice? I put that Eagle down yesterday and I just put down down some Microgreen (0-0-2) and Air8 from GCF. I am pretty nervous about losing my lawn! It looks worse now than in the picture. Thanks!


----------



## CenlaLowell (Apr 21, 2017)

HewKnowHew said:


> What's up yall?! I am facing the same issues my lawn. I have put down a bag or headway G (has worked the best for me), I have put an application of Propiconazole 14.3 and Eagle 20 and I just can't shake this fungus. I have also been using Milorganite(I am now off that ban wagon), N-ext products (RGS, Microgreem, Air8)...and I think that's it. I took a soil sample and know I need some potassium in my soil...so from this information and from you guys that have dealt with or are curently dealing with this offer me any advice? I put that Eagle down yesterday and I just put down down some Microgreen (0-0-2) and Air8 from GCF. I am pretty nervous about losing my lawn! It looks worse now than in the picture. Thanks!


Make sure to water you lawn consistency, but only in the morning it will come back. I'm still working on a small part of my lawn, the rest has already came back.


----------



## deeevo (Jun 18, 2018)

Just an FYI... Scotts DiseaseEx has the same active ingredients (Azoxystrobin 0.31%) as Heritage G and you can get it from HD for $18 a bag.


----------



## iFisch3224 (Jun 11, 2018)

deeevo said:


> Just an FYI... Scotts DiseaseEx has the same active ingredients (Azoxystrobin 0.31%) as Heritage G and you can get it from HD for $18 a bag.


Damn, AND Hertigage G significantly more expensive even in the bulk 30lb bag.

I'm going to have to pick up a bag this weekend and apply in conjunction with my Eagle 20 app. Still battling gray spot and brown patch. Eagle 20 helped, but not seeing any more suppression after the second application.

Thanks! :thumbup:


----------



## Ecks from Tex (Apr 26, 2018)

HewKnowHew said:


> What's up yall?! I am facing the same issues my lawn. I have put down a bag or headway G (has worked the best for me), I have put an application of Propiconazole 14.3 and Eagle 20 and I just can't shake this fungus. I have also been using Milorganite(I am now off that ban wagon), N-ext products (RGS, Microgreem, Air8)...and I think that's it. I took a soil sample and know I need some potassium in my soil...so from this information and from you guys that have dealt with or are curently dealing with this offer me any advice? I put that Eagle down yesterday and I just put down down some Microgreen (0-0-2) and Air8 from GCF. I am pretty nervous about losing my lawn! It looks worse now than in the picture. Thanks!


Controlling it takes time with your grass. Keep applying fungicides with different modes of action on rotating intervals at the recommended rates and you will see improvement. Just need to be patient. The only things you can do to help speed along are to mow a little lower for awhile and apply some organic fertilizer to keep pushing new growth.


----------



## HewKnowHew (Jul 4, 2018)

I appreciate all the advice y'all! Me and the family took a short vacation to the keys and will be back home tomorrow afternoon. I am anxious to am get back to the yard and see what's going on and I'll get back with everyone. Thanks.


----------



## Cman (May 4, 2018)

Mowing lower seemed to help mine out.


----------



## HewKnowHew (Jul 4, 2018)

Alright, alright , alright...made it back from vaca and finally found some time to post back. I appreciate all the advice everyone gave. The top pic sound be the fungus right before its worse, the second pic is from today after a mow. The pictures are probably about 2-3 weeks apart, and the picture from today is about a week after I applied eagle 20, MicroGreeen, and Air8. It seems like there is some new growth coming in and the fungus is getting knocked back some. I am getting ready to apply some propiconazole 14.3 in a day or two. I am using this product because I have already purchased it earlier this year.

I see that Heritage G is the same as Scott's disease ex and that's some great info, I am always trying to save a buck. I used Headway G though (the bags even look alike). It has Azoxystrobin 5.73%, Propiconazole 9.54% in it. I picked that because it had two different "modes of attack". So this raises a question for me..at this point I am about to apply my third app of Propiconazole, one app of Azoxystrobin, and Myclobutanil. At what point do I have to worry about this fungus becoming immune to these chemicals (especially the prop). I know frac codes and mode of attack have a lot to do with this and I have done a little research and I couldn't wrap my head around it very easy and have yet to go back to fully understand.

I am trying all of these Green County Fert products and I have been kind of eyeing the Dthatch because there is a bunch of thatch under the grass where this fungus is. I am wondering if that has something to do with it. I already put the Air8 down hoping that would help.

I appreciate everyone's advice! This is my first season actually investing time, money and effort in my lawn. I started out chasing my tail, then I got dizzy, and know I am trying to get my bearings. I know you guys have a lot more information to share and experience to talk about. Thanks again.


----------



## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

I try not to use the same MOA more that 2 consecutive apps and rotate 2 other MOAs before going back to the first one.


----------



## Florida_Man (Jun 30, 2018)

Just checking back in here on this thread because I came across this. Looks like the University of Georgia doesn't recommend Myclobutanil / Eagle for gray leaf spot either...





https://athenaeum.libs.uga.edu/bitstream/handle/10724/12436/B1316.pdf?sequence=1

Suits me anyway. Propiconazole is cheaper for me with a pint of HonorGuard PPZ 1 pint at less than $24.


----------



## iFisch3224 (Jun 11, 2018)

Cman said:


> Went out and bought some Eagle fungicide which its active ingredient is myuclobutanil. According to this article from the Alabama Cooperative Extension it seems as though this active ingredient is not control grey leaf spot on St Augustine Grass. I may go back and see if I can pick up some Heritage granular instead. It is a good bit more but dont want to put something down that will not work for me.
> 
> http://www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-0621/ANR-0621.pdf


I've seen moderate results at best on my St Aug. Applied twice, @ standard doses - twice in 15 days. Definitely getting more control back in the yard. It's still there, but much less of the blade is affected and spots are even diminishing.

*Before:*









*After:*





Not all the way gone, and this gigantic surge of rain over the past few days _*certainly*_ hasn't helped (4+" rain)


----------



## Cman (May 4, 2018)

Guess this explains why the eagle isn't doing much for the yard. I will try to reapply but looks like I may need to invest in another fungicide.


----------



## iFisch3224 (Jun 11, 2018)

Cman said:


> Guess this explains why the eagle isn't doing much for the yard. I will try to reapply but looks like I may need to invest in another fungicide.


I'd probably use Prop 14.3 & Scott's Disease Ex as my go-to as Eagle and Prop 14.3 are the same price. Eagle's been working ok this year. Seen better results, quicker, believe it or not from the Disease Ex (Heritgage G) then the Eagle. And I think I paid $16 and change for the Disease Ex @ Lowes.


----------



## Stellar P (Apr 13, 2018)

iFisch3224 said:


>


*From your 2nd pic:*



(RED) Is this the Grey Leaf Spot after the fungicide has started to work? Visible applied product on blade? Different disease? Aliens?

(Blue) Looks different than the obvious Grey Leaf Spot markings.


----------



## iFisch3224 (Jun 11, 2018)

Stellar P said:


> iFisch3224 said:
> 
> 
> >
> ...


Blue = RGS/Humic 12 dark carbon-based soil amendment. Good eye.


----------



## Ecks from Tex (Apr 26, 2018)

iFisch3224 said:


> Stellar P said:
> 
> 
> > iFisch3224 said:
> ...


The blue is the leaf spot. I think the red could be some humic/fulvic acid blend like RGS.


----------

