# critique my analysis



## r7k (Jan 25, 2019)

mom's yard, all weeds, looking to renovate next year.

Analysis:

```
Modified Morgan

soil pH                                  4.8    (1:1 H2O)
buffered pH                              5.8    (Mod. Mehlich)
Est. Cation Exch Capacity               11.5    cmole+/100g

Base Saturation                          %
calcium                                 14           suggested 40-50      below optimum   {649 lbs/acre}
magnesium                                6           suggested 10-30      below optimum   {154 lbs/acre}
potassium                                1           suggested   2-7      below optimum   {117 lbs/acre}
phosphorus                             -----                                    below optimum   {5 lbs/acre}

Element                                ppm      soil range in CT
boron                                     0          0.1 - 2.0
copper                                  0.2          0.3 - 0.8
iron                                   14.5          1.0 - 40.0
manganese                               2.5          3.0 - 20.0
zinc                                    1.7          0.1 - 70.0
sulfur                                 22.0        10-100
aluminum                              179.5        10-300

recommendation limestone 175 per 1000 sqft for target pH of 6.6
```
What should I do now before winter, to prepare for a glyphosate killing and power raking in the spring then putting down good mail order seed?

I am looking at tackling just front and side of yard at first, about 2,000 square feet. This sample from 3 places in front yard mixed together.

On the lawn level 1 to level 3 scale, I'm hoping to achieve a level 0.7. Current lawn level is <= copper ppm.


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## desirous (Dec 15, 2017)

I'd start with 50lb/M of lime (Soil Doctor pelletized from Home Depot or Lowes, $4/40lb bag is fine.) It will take a few years to show results, but the sooner you start, the better. Another 50lb/M in spring.

I suspect they recommended 175lb/M, not per acre.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Your first goal should be to adjust the pH. Solu-cal enhanced lime would be a good product for that soil.. Supposedly, it can be found here:
http://solucal.treelandgardencenter.com/
I'd also suggest you put down 10-10-10 at 1#/M twice yet this year and use a starter fert at seeding.
I'd also suggest you wait and reseed next Fall for better chance of success.


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## r7k (Jan 25, 2019)

1#/M = 1 pound per 1000 square feet ?

is dolimite limestone from depot/lowes all that's needed to correct the Ca and Mg deficiency?

does dolimite lime do anything else for the other elements or micro nutrient stuff?

It's seems obvious that the soil is lacking in everything...
will dolimite lime correct the low Ph and Ca and Mg deficiency, and then proper amounts of 10-10-10 basically take of the rest? Is it that easy a few bags of lime and triple 10? Is there any other supplement or amendment that would be beneficial that I should do? Will try to link an existing lawn pic and pic of my soil analysis later.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Yes 1#/M is 1 lb of nutrient per one thousand square feet. If you use a 10-10-10 it will take 10 lbs of bag product to give 1 lb of nutrient.
Yes, it does appear that that soil is lacking. pH has a big influence on the availability or unavailability of nutrients and other chemicals in the soil. Once the pH is raised to mid 6s, the levels of the available nutrients can significantly change. In this soil, with a pH below 5 and higher Al levels, there is a high likelihood for Al toxicity, that Al is tying up P, and that the plant isn't getting sufficient Ca. Raising pH can help correct that. 
Dolomite will add both Ca and Mg, but the amount of each would depend on the mix in the lime bag. You are going to need to do some math to insure that sufficient amounts of each are present in the soil and in an appropriate ratio 5:1 to 10:1 is considered ideal, the higher Ca ratio especially for soil tilth. Dolomitic lime is about 3-6 months slower to react than pure calcitic. It's also relatively easy to add Mg through the application of relatively small amounts Epsom salts.
As far as the micros, we don't know what lab you used or what extraction method the lab used to measure the micros. I don't usually advise people to apply micros because: 1: turf grass is very efficient at extracting them from soil and getting what the plant needs. 2. one test report isn't enough of a basis to confidently determine they are low. 3. some can be toxic to the plant and the amounts needed to reach max levels is in the ounces/M. However, I do explain in my soil thread how to calculate the amount needed to raise micros if you are so incline. 4. There are fertilizers (available at SiteOne for instance) that can be used to add micros on a regular basis in safe amounts. 
No, lime and a couple of bags of TNPK wont cure everything, but it is a major step in correcting the most important soil fertility issues.


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## hawrylte (Jul 4, 2020)

@r7k Was this the soil test the UCONN $12 Standard Nutrient Analysis or did you get the soil tested elsewhere?


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## uts (Jul 8, 2019)

@r7k hey fellow CT resident.

You are looking at a small lawn so your cost wont be high for most of the products.

Get a good fast acting lime. There are a few places in CT that sell these and range from 14-25 for a 50lb bag. You will probably get 3 to 4 apps atleast out of those so get that. It will help correct your pH faster (read 2 -3 seasons) .

You can also get a good balanced fertilizer will help replenish nutrients fast. You dont need anything premium here. Get anything which has equal numbers and apply as above stated.

You can also try to put down a 3 way herbecide in early fall and see what remains. If there is grass feed more and see what grows.

As a fellow CT resident you can always hit me up.


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