# Soil plan review requested



## RichS (Jan 28, 2019)

I posted in another thread the results of 4 different tests I had run, but I'll focus on two of the here. I've put together a plan and would like a sanity check/feedback.





To me, the clear results are high P and low K. Ca and Mg are both in range, but the ratio is a bit off, as Ca is at the low end and Mg at the high end. It doesn't really require a fix, but what the heck....

I'm either low or on target for B and Mn, depening on which test you believe. Everything else looks pretty good.

So my plan it to get a zero P, high K fert, compliment it with SOP, and then use SOP in the fall when I'm putting down Urea. Gypsum will add Ca without increasing the pH, and will add some Sulfur, which is a tad low.

So:
Early April (this week): 
- 1/3 lb N/k from Urea just to wake things up without excessive growth
- 2 lbs/k SOP
- Fast acting gypsum at the remediation rate. 
- 3 tbsp/k MnSO4 and Borax, mixed in about 2 lbs/k Milorganite (the minimum I've found I can effectively use as a carrying agent, trying to minimize Milorg's P) - adds another 0.15 lb/k N. The N won't take effect until the soil warms a bit, picking up from the quick action of the Urea
- First split application of 0-0-7 Prodiamine

Late May: 
- 0.85 lbs N/k from 25-0-10 slow-release fert
- 1.25 lb/k SOP (fert + SOP = 1 lb K, the same amount in 2 lbs/k SOP)
- 3 tbsp/k MnSO4 and Borax, mixed in about 2 lbs/k Milorganite (adds about .15 lbs/k N to get to 1 lb/k total)
- Second split application of 0-0-7 Prodiamine.

mid-July: 
- 2 lbs/k SOP
- Fast acting gypsum at the standard rate. 
- 3 tbsp/k MnSO4 and Borax, mixed in about 2 lbs/k Milorganite
- Grubex treatment.

Early September: 
- Start biweekly 0.5 lb/k Urea until growth starts slowing.
- 2 lbs/K SOP
- 3 tbsp/k MnSO4 and Borax, mixed in about 2 lbs/k Milorganite
- Fall 0-0-7 Prodiamine application

Late October: 
- 3 tbsp/k MnSO4 and Borax, mixed in about 2 lbs/k Milorganite
- Fast acting gypsum at the standard rate.

November: 
- 1 lb/k N from Urea after growth stops.

I split the Prodiamine into about 40%, 20%, 40% of the annual max - so 60% in the Spring, 40% in the Fall

This totals about 6 lbs N, .5 lbs P, 4.5lb K, plus B, Mn, Ca, and S additives.

Comments/discussion welcome.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

RichS said:


> So my plan it to get a zero P, high K fert, compliment it with SOP, and then use SOP in the fall when I'm putting down Urea. Gypsum will add Ca without increasing the pH, and will add some Sulfur, which is a tad low.


I agree and their recommendations agree too. The SOP will give you sulfur too.

I think you can use cheap normal gypsum instead of fast acting, but that's a personal choice.

Grubex should go down at green up instead of july per MSU article.

I personally don't bother with boron. All the studies I read yield inconclusive results on turf (corn, soybean are a different story).

I've stopped doing the very last nitrogen application after top growth stops. Doug Soldat studies keeps yielding that it has a very little benefit. Again, this is just a personal preference.

By the way, you have a nice soil.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

I hate to tell you that your Na and soluble salts are low. :lol: 
Based on your P, I'm going to guess you are a refugee from another lawn care site. Good ol' Milo.
Based on your posts, I see you're familiar with soil nutrition and test analysis, so I won't try to talk you into the bank and maintenance philosophy. May I ask why you want to adjust Ca, Mn and B levels?


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## RichS (Jan 28, 2019)

Should I assume the :lol: means you're not serious? Anything I've read/seen says Na should be low and I've never really paid attention to them I've never had soluble salts on a test before, so I have no idea what they should be. So both are unknowns/ignored to me.

The P reading was a surprise. It's been a bit low for 3 years, slowly building up, and last year I put only what I had in previous years - about 2lbs total. It's been 30, 42, 51 and then bam, 98 this year, with consistent application rates each year.

Mn's a bit low on the Waypoint and B low on the A&L (assuming Optimum is in the Medium-High range). I guess that's the problem with multiple tests - conflicting data.

Gypsum was to address the Sulfur shortage as well as fine-tuning the Ca:Mg ratio. Nothing urgent - perhaps just an urge to fiddle.

btw - I'm debating the last N application too. On "the other site", I think I caused a disturbance pointing out the recent research that if may not really have much of an effect. I added it to the plan out of habit - I'll probably just put down what I have left over.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

This is my second winter without the winterizer. I don't miss it. Last night I posted an image from my green up. https://thelawnforum.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=325


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

> Should I assume the :lol: means you're not serious? Anything I've read/seen says Na should be low and I've never really paid attention to them I've never had soluble salts on a test before, so I have no idea what they should be. So both are unknowns/ignored to me.


Yes, it was my poor attempt at soil humor. It was my way of saying that your soil is about perfect IMO. Although it is suspected that plants use some Na, high levels creat sodic/high soil dispersion which is detrimental to soil structure. Low Na is considered ideal. Soluble Salts is a measurement of the salt content in soil. Levels above 1.5-2 dS/m begin to become detrimental to plants (dehydration/osmosis- interference with the uptake of water). KBG and Rye are some of the more sensitive turf and Bermuda much less so.


> The P reading was a surprise. It's been a bit low for 3 years, slowly building up, and last year I put only what I had in previous years - about 2lbs total. It's been 30, 42, 51 and then bam, 98 this year, with consistent application rates each year.


That would be expected if you've been sampling and testing at the 3 to 4" depth. Why it's better to sample from 0-4" inclusive.


> Mn's a bit low on the Waypoint and B low on the A&L (assuming Optimum is in the Medium-High range).


Levels are judged sufficient by both labs and appear to be in range per SLAN. Turf is very efficient at extracting needed nutrients. I doubt you'll get any visual feed-back from adjusting them. Keep in mind, there is detrimental effect at excessive levels and if you're only sampling at the 3-4" depth, levels could be much higher in the soil above that depth.


> btw - I'm debating the last N application too. On "the other site", I think I caused a disturbance pointing out the recent research that if may not really have much of an effect. I added it to the plan out of habit - I'll probably just put down what I have left over.


IMO, to each his own on that. There are pros and cons to be argued. In my experience, I've found it acts as a Spring N application. I've had earlier Spring green up when I've applied heavy LSF than when I haven't.


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