# Curative/Preventative Fungicide - Before/After pics



## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

As my title questions, how long for you guys? I put down a Bayer liquid product this past Saturday. I think it's improving but unsure? I know I can spray it again in two weeks.


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## HoosierLawnGnome (Sep 28, 2017)

pennstater2005 said:


> As my title questions, how long for you guys? I put down a Bayer liquid product this past Saturday. I think it's improving but unsure? I know I can spray it again in two weeks.


Propacanizole?

"It depends"   

Propacanizole has yielded speedy responses for me on rust / leaf spot in the past. By speedy I mean within 1-2 weeks, but that's not a universal rule. For rust, I like to give some Nitrogen, bag mow frequently, and KEEP IT DRY IN THE EVENING AND OVERNIGHT.

Leaf spot is a different animal. And other fungus are too.

I'm betting that rust is about to start having a fungus orgy in our area, given the long, wet, cool nights we're having where I live. They also started harvesting a soybean field a mile away.


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

HoosierLawnGnome said:


> pennstater2005 said:
> 
> 
> > As my title questions, how long for you guys? I put down a Bayer liquid product this past Saturday. I think it's improving but unsure? I know I can spray it again in two weeks.
> ...


AI is Tebuconazole. I did give it a very light dose of urea right before the rain recently. I guess wait and see. I'm expecting results too quickly.


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## j4c11 (Apr 30, 2017)

Depends on how fast it starts to grow back in. Really no such thing as a curative fungicide. The fungus will be suppressed but grass that is damaged will stay damaged until either the blades grow and you cut the damaged sections off with your mower, or new tillers come up from the crown. Grass that is stressed due to disease can take a while to recover and start growing again.


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

j4c11 said:


> Depends on how fast it starts to grow back in. Really no such thing as a curative fungicide. The fungus will be suppressed but grass that is damaged will stay damaged until either the blades grow and you cut the damaged sections off with your mower, or new tillers come up from the crown. Grass that is stressed due to disease can take a while to recover and start growing again.


That's what I thought. So how do they get away with putting in the label that it is curative and preventative?










This is what I used as listed rust and leaf spot on the label.


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

Do I need a lawn specific one?


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## j4c11 (Apr 30, 2017)

I think what they mean by "curative" (as opposed to preventive) is that it can be used successfully after disease has set in to stop it spreading, not necessarily that it will "cure" damaged tissue. 
The Bayer product you used is not labelled for use on home lawns. I don't know how efficient it is when used to treat grass diseases. I did find it listed on NCSU site as possible treatment for brown patch with a low efficiency rating.


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

j4c11 said:


> I think what they mean by "curative" (as opposed to preventive) is that it can be used successfully after disease has set in to stop it spreading, not necessarily that it will "cure" damaged tissue.
> The Bayer product you used is not labelled for use on home lawns. I don't know how efficient it is when used to treat grass diseases. I did find it listed on NCSU site as possible treatment for brown patch with a low efficiency rating.


I couldn't find anything local listed for lawns. If this doesn't work I'll have to buy online.


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## j4c11 (Apr 30, 2017)

pennstater2005 said:


> j4c11 said:
> 
> 
> > I think what they mean by "curative" (as opposed to preventive) is that it can be used successfully after disease has set in to stop it spreading, not necessarily that it will "cure" damaged tissue.
> ...


Lowe's normally carries a variety, Bayer Fungus Control both granular and foliar and a bunch of others. Otherwise get Patch Pro from Amazon, cheap and effective.


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

j4c11 said:


> pennstater2005 said:
> 
> 
> > j4c11 said:
> ...


Thanks for the info. I checked out the Patch Pro. That is a good deal at $32.


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## j4c11 (Apr 30, 2017)

pennstater2005 said:


> Thanks for the info. I checked out the Patch Pro. That is a good deal at $32.


Yep. Being in the transition zone I have a gallon of propiconazole on hand :thumbup:


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## ken-n-nancy (Jul 25, 2017)

pennstater2005 said:


> Thanks for the info. I checked out the Patch Pro. That is a good deal at $32.


Just FYI, although the Patch Pro is "less expensive" at $32 on Amazon, that's only for a 16oz bottle. So, the price is $2.00/oz.

A 32oz bottle of Quali-Pro Propiconazole 14.3 is $44.07 at domyown.com. That's a price of $1.38/oz. 
http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/propiconazole-143-p-16567.html

A gallon jug (128oz) of the Quali-Pro Propiconazole 14.3 is $87.99 at domyown.com. That's $0.69/oz.

So, depending upon the size of your lawn, you can save a lot of $$$ in the long run by buying larger volumes at a time.


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

ken-n-nancy said:


> pennstater2005 said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for the info. I checked out the Patch Pro. That is a good deal at $32.
> ...


Thanks K&N. If I'm going to be switching between classes of fungicides I'm not sure how much I want to have on hand. Is there a shelf life to fungicides?


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## osuturfman (Aug 12, 2017)

pennstater2005 said:


> ken-n-nancy said:
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> 
> > pennstater2005 said:
> ...


Keep them from freezing and 3 years is a reasonable expectation.


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## vnephologist (Aug 4, 2017)

As I'd expect, since they're both triazoles, NCSU lists efficacy of Tebuconazole and Propacanizole for rust the same.

http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases/rust

If you still have more Bayer on hand, I wouldn't necessarily purchase anything else. If you're just following the label rate on the bottle to this point, you probably need to up it a bit. Remember my math in the other thread.  "In this case Quali-Pro Tebuconazole 3.6F has 38% active and recommends 0.6oz/M. The Bayer only has 2.9% (check your label to be sure). So (38/2.9)*0.6 oz = 7.86 oz/M."


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## HoosierLawnGnome (Sep 28, 2017)

ken-n-nancy said:


> pennstater2005 said:
> 
> 
> > Thanks for the info. I checked out the Patch Pro. That is a good deal at $32.
> ...


Yup, I bought a big 2 1/2 gallon jug of the Quali-Pro from a local turf supplier. Works great!


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

Bayer Fungicide used.

Oct 3rd










Oct 14th


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## vnephologist (Aug 4, 2017)

Looking better! You're at almost 2 weeks. I'd hit it again to be safe.


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

vnephologist said:


> Looking better! You're at almost 2 weeks. I'd hit it again to be safe.


I did it again today after I mowed. I'll post pics again maybe next weekend or so. Keeping my fingers crossed!!! I bumped it up like you recommended but only a little. I'm too nervous to do any damage to it.


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## vnephologist (Aug 4, 2017)

Very little risk with fungicide, except for resistance. How much are you fertilizing? I was thinking you had cut back at first because you thought the issue was urea related. A good dose should help grow out of the fungal issue.


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

vnephologist said:


> Very little risk with fungicide, except for resistance. How much are you fertilizing? I was thinking you had cut back at first because you thought the issue was urea related. A good dose should help grow out of the fungal issue.


Yes, initially I held off. After two weeks I knew it I considered the possibility it was something else. I gave a light dose last week and a slightly heavier one today after fungicide.

Thanks for the help!


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

Oct 3rd










Oct 14th










Oct 22nd










Bad last pic but it is improved. Might have to try and switch to propiconazole if this stays and if temps allow.


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## Pete1313 (May 3, 2017)

Good to see that it is improving.


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

Pete1313 said:


> Good to see that it is improving.


Slowly, but I feel like it's stuck. I don't know if I should keep applying fungicide or just let it grow out now and wait for next year.


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## ken-n-nancy (Jul 25, 2017)

pennstater2005 said:


> Slowly, but I feel like it's stuck. I don't know if I should keep applying fungicide or just let it grow out now and wait for next year.


It can be hard to tell when a fungicide has been effective, particularly if the grass isn't growing very quickly, as the fungicide doesn't "cure" the already-damaged grass blades. The damaged grass blades will remain damaged -- they're not ever going to come back. They'll continue to be there until there is enough new growth at the bottom of the grass blades to push the damaged portions of the grass blades up high enough that they get cut off by the mower.

So, it can be really hard to tell if the fungicide has eliminated the problem if the grass is only growing slowly...


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

ken-n-nancy said:


> pennstater2005 said:
> 
> 
> > Slowly, but I feel like it's stuck. I don't know if I should keep applying fungicide or just let it grow out now and wait for next year.
> ...


Thanks for that. I don't like how they put "cures" on the label. It's deceiving. It hasn't really grown out much. I'm a little worried.


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