# Soil test Norway



## keneil01 (Sep 15, 2019)

I finally got my soil test back and need some recommendations. Last year I imported the bio stim pack from Nex-t products and are probably the only one in Norway… I feel that I get quick response when using air 8 and RGS, but not a lasting result. Im probably lacking some stuff that are getting used very quick.

After the soil test, the professional golf shop pointed out a few products to buy, but I'm not convinced that the knowledge is to the "US lawn standard". Here in Norway, lawn its good enough if its "grass", but I want to increase my lawn to the next level!

The soil test can be seen here:
https://luminell-my.sharepoint.com/:b:/p/ke/EWm8-gzDZS1JntQKpcZkpnoBJj8Wa6bRjQQpXhWJJaxb2g?e=dVFcko

I did buy the following products:
Andersson 13-2-13+ Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu (spring and fall)
Andersson 25-5-15+ Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu (summer)
Plant Marvel Nutriculture (for spraying fert) 13 - 1 - 11 high K (spoon feeding)
Pervade premier Soil wetting agent & penetrant (to increase water penetration)

I feel that I'm not getting enough "P" in what I have bought and are appreciate feedback.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

I'm guessing that wasn't an inexpensive test.
The lab used was AgSource which gives the following guidance for nutrient sufficiency ranges:
https://laboratories.agsource.com/agronomy/soil/understanding-soil/
Click on the nutrient from the list on the left and scroll down for the range.
Apparently, Ana-lync has what they call the Ana-Lync Soil Analysis System which combines standard acid testing with saturated paste (water) testing.
https://www.lawnandlandscape.com/article/ll-103015-floratine-growinginnovations-partnership/
I assume the values on report listed as "available" are from the water extraction.
General guidelines for saturated paste testing:
http://soilfirst.com/pdf/soiltest/Saturated_Paste_Extract_Guidelines.pdf


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

What are your soil's physical characteristics? Sand, loose, sticky, clay, silt, pebbles? When squeezed, does it form or easily fall apart?
Is the OM natural or have you been amending with something?
What were your temperatures in April (daytime highs and nightly lows)?


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## keneil01 (Sep 15, 2019)

Thanks for your feedback - much appreciated.

You are right about the test was not cheap (around 200 USD). I had the option to go for a cheap one, but then the I would only get NPK and a few other and that would cost me around 100 USD. My thinking was to go for the full analyse to get a baseline, and then go for the less expensive when I have done corrective actions i a year or two.

I had to dig out half of my yard two years ago, and ended up with seeding with red fescue (Barenbrug). The lawn turned out fantastic, but since then the "native" grass are catching up. I have been reading a lot and watching "everything" youtube this winter, and if I have had the knowledge that I have now, I would do a complete restart og the lawn. My wife will not let me do that, so I have to work with what I have... I can't "restart" my wife... haha...

The lawn appearance is ok, but after very variable weather in april (snow, heavy rain, sunshine and temp between 32-70), I suspect that red thread are sneaking up on me. To try to correct this I applied yesterday Andersson 13-2-13+ to boost the N. Im able to get hold of Nufarm 3336F if needed.



You ask for soil characteristics. I feal its kind of loose, but also holds a lot of water. 
I also put down RGS and Air 8 yesterday at max rate.

One more comment. I feel the grass blades are not standing up right, more like laying over and are suspecting that something is missing. This was the main reason that I did a soil test. the first year the appearance was very nice.

This was taken in Oct 2018:

Yes, I have sharpened the mower blade a few times since the picture was taken ;-)


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

AgSource is a good lab and is a participant of NAPT/PAP, which speaks volumes. As I mentioned you actually got two very complete tests, not just one. The values listed as "total" are the result of a combination of ammonium acetate, Bray 1 and DTPA extraction. This "acid" method reflects the amount of nutrient that will be available sometime during the growing season, both currently available and slowly to become available. This is the only "type" of test most have done. In addition, the values listed as "available" are the result of a saturated paste test that uses just water as the extractant. A saturated past test shows only the currently available nutrient levels.
Point 1. All of the recommended nutrient levels/ranges suggested by Ana-lync are higher than what are commonly recommended. (see the links I posted above and compare them to the recommended ranges on the soil report).
Point 2. Nearly all of the paste test levels "available" are very low to deficient whether compared to Ana-lyncs ranges or to more traditional ranges (like in the link from above). On the other hand, the "acid" test nutrient levels are either in range or just slightly low to recommended ranges. We could analyze all of the possible reasons for this including antagonistic relationships between the nutrients, pH influences etc., but I suspect that it's likely due to the time of year that the samples were taken. The soil was just too cool for microbial and plant actions/processes that would have made nutrients available. I'd just suggest you concentrate on the reported results from the "acid" test with attention to Potassium and Manganese and maybe Zinc and possibly Boron. Also consider adjusting pH, I think the benefits outweigh any any possible issues.
With an OM of nearly 9, if it was mostly stable humates, the CEC would likely be much higher than 9. "Fresh" OM can be a substantial source for micro-nutrients, especially Boron.


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