# Sticky  Cool Season Lawn Guide



## g-man

*Cool Season Guide*​
We would like to welcome you to the forum. We are a group of lawn enthusiasts (aka. obsessed) that like to share our knowledge and experiences. This article is meant as the how-to guide to lawn care for cool season lawns. The intent is to provide a high level summary of the practices that will make your lawn look great and also point to more in depth articles or you tube videos.

*Levels*​
We will start with establishing a 3 level approach to your lawn based on your goals and desired effort.


Tier 1 - *I just want something green* - This is the basic level. Minimum efforts to get the best lawn in your street. A couple of simple practices (and avoiding some common mistakes) will yield a decent lawn. I will assume the use of big box stores (Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, Walmart) only in this group. This tier is a great place to start if you are new to lawn care and don't have the time or inclination to do in-depth reading and learn a lot of new terms. Please remind us of this intent since we forget.
Tier 2 - *The lawn of the TV ads * - Yes, the grass is greener on your lawn. The neighbor will say that you are making him look bad. The level of effort, cost and dedication does increase and you will likely have the best lawn in the neighborhood. This is a balanced approach that uses the best of both worlds.
Tier 3 - *The Wrigley Field * - You research the lawn cultivar for your area, you kill your lawn with Round Up (aka renovation) and go after a monostand (single cultivar of grass). Mowing at least twice week is normal and mowing daily sounds just fine. This group wants a perfectly leveled lawn and a single weed is not acceptable. The risks are higher and so is the cost and time commitment, but so are the rewards. Don't jump into this tier until you have mastered tier 2 for at least a year.

*Popular Cool Season Topics*
Acronyms / Glossary
Fall Nitrogen Blitz (cool season grasses only)
Ferrous Ammonium Sulfate
Maintaining KBG or PRG at 1"
PGR + Cool Season Grass
Soil Surfactants/Wetting agents?
Turf Disease Identification
Weed ID Thread - What is it and how do I kill it?
Fungus ID
Fungicides Guide
Cool Season Overseed
Renovation Guide
Herbicide Guide
The grass seed sources
ET and irrigation guide

_Disclaimer_

Lawn care practices vary by cool season grass versus warm season grass and by cool season zone versus warm season zone versus the transition zone. Generally, cool season grasses are grown in cool season zones, and warm season grasses are grown in warm season zones. An area located in transition zones may grow either warm season or cool season grasses.

This how-to guide is for *cool season grass* and it is mainly geared for *cool season areas *. Some of the practices apply to cool season grasses the transition zone (TN, VA, NC).

Most of the guidance comes from reading multiple university research or publication and supplemented with experienced member collaboration of successful practices (see references at the end of this document).

*General*​
These general guidelines apply to ALL tiers.

One of the first things to do is knowing your lawn size. This helps to ensure how much product (e.g., fertilizer, pre-emergent, post-emergent, etc) to apply. A tape measure or Draftlogic will help determine it. Remember to update your profile with the lawn size. It helps other members know how to help you when you post a question. Make sure you get the area of lawn and not the house, driveway and mulch beds.
Get your soil tested - The soil provides nutrients for your grass. Getting the nutrients in balance gives the lawn a solid foundation. Understanding your soil will also ensure how to water or fertilize it (sandy=more frequent).
The Soil Test Thread  will guide you thru the process.

The lab used for the test is important. In general you want a test that provides clear results with a guide on what to apply for the year. Doing yearly reports with the same lab, using the same test methods and the same sampling method will provide you with a trend of your soil. Selecting a Soil Testing Laboratory thread helps you in finding a local lab that knows your state typical soil/test methods. Try to use a lab that uses known proven methods (eg. not MySoil, SoilSavvy) for better assistance from other members.
Keep the blades sharp - A sharp blade reduces leaf damage and watering needs (especially during the summer). Try to sharpen the blades every 2 months. This video shows the proper way to get a blade sharp (hand file). How to Sharpen and balance a lawn mower blade
For most grass types, mow around 3.5in during the summer and gradually lower to 2.5 in the fall. Longer grass survives the summer heat better since it protects the soil from heat. But too long promotes lawn diseases / fungus since since it retains moisture. Shorter in the winter helps maintain air circulation and avoid snow mold. Avoid mowing more than 1/3 the height of cut.
Don't bag, *mulch*. The clipping have nutrients and mulching them returns them to the lawn. It will also help increase the organic matter in the soil. Plus bagging takes more time and effort. Mulch em  However, when grass is overgrown or with weed seeds or fungus, it may be best to bag or rake so that clumps do not smoother existing turf.
Mulch the tree leaves. Tree leaves provide free nutrients and less work for you from raking. Go over the leaves multiple times with your mower. They will disappear in a couple of weeks.  Mulching Mowing Leaves 
Finding materials at good prices is a challenge. In this Local Sources thread members share places they use close to them. You can also discuss in the hometown folder with fellow members local to your state/town. Otherwise, look for feed stores, SiteOne, co-ops and landscape distributors near you. Buying online is convenient, but for 50lb bags, it get very expensive.
Start a log. Write down what you applied to the lawn and when. It helps understand mistakes and keep track of nitrogen levels. I use an online excel file that I could access from the phone. Here is an example of it:  Log sheet + GDD + ET0 + Tenacity + Prodiamine calculator 

* Dealing with weeds*
Weeds are going to happen on any lawn. Applying a PreM is more cost effective than killing the weeds after they have grown. A thick, full lawn is another way to prevent weeds from further developing.


The weeds and grass both needs to be actively growing to absorb the herbicide. Avoid high temperatures and drought conditions. It might take multiple applications. Feed it some nitrogen if it is not growing much.
First line of attack - Weed B Gon, or similar - it is a mix of 3 or more active ingredients that would take care of *most* weeds. But timing is the key. Treat weeds when the grass is actively growing. An application of nitrogen also help the weeds grow and absorb the active ingredients.
Second wave - If the weed doesn't react in 2 weeks, then we use Weed B Gon CCO (chickweed, clover & oxalis) active ingredient - *triclopyr*. Adding a non-ionic surfactant helps and multiple applications are the norm.
If that doesn't do it or is a grassy weed, then most of the time round up (ai=glyphosate only) is the solution. Ask in the forum for advice if you reach this stage at the Weed ID Thread - What is it and how do I kill it? . A common one is quackgrass and the most effective way is round up. Other common ones: Weeds in Turf

It is best to buying these products in concentrate bottle and buy a small 1 gallon sprayer (HD/Lowes sometimes give it out for free with purchase). *Do not use a hose end sprayer* since the application rate is not consistent. For large properties (acre+) it is cheaper to buy online or at a farm/feed store (ie. tractor supply) or a landscape company (eg. Site One).

@Suburban Jungle Life developed a  Herbicide Guide  that list all the available products for cool season lawns and their uses. The guide goes into details on what products to use for specific weeds.

Avoid products called "weed and feed" in a bag. If you read the bag, they expect the lawn to be moist when you apply it so the powder sticks to the weed leaves. They just dont work that great even if you follow the instructions.

*Irrigation Practices*

Watering - the goal is to apply around 1in of water per week at once. This promotes roots going deep. In the heat of summer I do change to 0.5in every 3 days (yes 1.5in per week is normal in the summer). Use a couple of empty tuna cans or any straight wall container to measure how long to run your irrigation. Place the cans in the area you are watering and see how long it takes to fill up (~1in) An impact sprinkler will take a very long time to do 1in.
Water in the morning (5-6am) to avoid fungus. The worst time to water (6-9pm) since it keeps the grass wet all night. A wet and warm grass is a petri dish for fungus.
Try to get head to head coverage with any sprinkler head. Irrigation nozzles typically spread water away from them, but not near them. A second head should be used to irrigate near head 1. Check irrigationtutorials.com for more detail info on irrigation setup.

*Maintenance Calendar*​
*Spring*
The lawn is starting to wake up from the winter break. There might be some matted down grass and some snow mold. A light rake will help it get some air, but be careful of causing damage by raking too much. The winter winds could bring some debri so it is good to pick up any leaf piles. Give the mower a tune up and fresh gas. Avoid the urge to apply too much nitrogen at this time. Nitrogen will promote grow but it will sacrifice the carbohydrates the plant stored for the summer, so understand the tradeoff. Try to manage a healthy grow of around 1in of leaf/week. If you do apply nitrogen, go for a low rate of 0.25lb of N/ksqft of a fast source (aka spoon feeding) and monitor the lawn. Once the warmer temps get to the soil, some of the organic matter breakdown will provide naturally provide nitrogen and you can get too much growth. The closer to the transition zone, the more likely that you will need nitrogen in the spring.

"I'm new" or "I just moved to this house" or "I did not apply nitrogen in the fall" or "This is a renovation" or "I had some winter damage", in your case then yes try to promote growth since there are no carbs in the roots. Try to get that 1in of new growth/week. Give it more nitrogen if it is struggling to get there and/or dial it back if it is growing too much. Using spoon feedings allows you to quickly adjust as the weather/conditions change.

Spring to do list:

If grubs have been a problem in the past or if you dont want any risk with them, then spring is the time to apply a grub preventer. GrubEx (chlorantraniliprole) is my choice since it is nicer to bees. Apply as soon as your lawn greens up. A second product is imidacloprid, but there are studies that link it to environmental issues (bees).  MSU Grub Article  and  Grub Control Thread
Collect your soil sample and get it analyzed. A soil test is the best way for you to know you are providing the nutrient the lawn needs. Early spring allows any product applied in the fall to be incorporated into your soil.
Tier 3 - It is possible that you might see some Poa Annua. If you did the PreM in the fall and any previously existing was killed by the summer heat, it should only be a handful, so pull them by hand. Otherwise, Tenacity herbicide is an effective tool. Using the 2oz rate, do a blanket application. This will turn the poa annua white so you could see it. Then do spot treatment applications at the 2oz rate every week for 2 weeks. A higher rate seems not to be as effective since it stops the poa annua from absorbing and it bounces back. YMMV. Another option is to use a product with active ingredient: ethofumesate.
Apply a _ Pre-Emergent _
One of the key activities to perform is applying a pre-emergent control of summer weeds (eg. Crabgrass). It is easier and cheaper to prevent the weeds from growing than to kill them later. A pre-emergent (PreM) product will last a couple of months and it creates a barrier that prevent seeds from developing (weeds or good seeds). Spring Prem will not prevent winter annuals (eg. clover, dandelions).

The PreM should be applied when the forsythia blooms and/or use these* online tools*to help guide your decision on when to drop the PreM.

www.gddtracker.net
Greencast Soil Temp
 TLF Forsythia map/tracker 
* above all these tools, error in the side of early, but dont stress about it. Even if a bit late, still do it.


The best two PreM are prodiamine (brand name Barricade) and dithiopyr (brand name Dimension). Pendimethalin also works.

Most stores will sell a Pre Emergent product mixed in with fertilizer called Crabgrass Preventer. Try to find one with one of the names above and low on nitrogen. A few options:

*Menards*
Menards Crabgrass Preventer - It uses 0.125% dithipyor. I would apply it soon and then a second application of the same product in 8 weeks. Currently at $9 for 5ksqft.

*Home depot*
Vigoro Crabgrass Preventer - 1.29% Pendimethalin - It leaves some yellow stains. $18/ 5ksqft.

Scotts Crabgrass Preventer - - 1.29% Pendimethalin - It leaves some yellow stains. $25/ 5ksqft. Yes it is identical to the Vigoro for $8 more.

*Lowes*
Scotts Halt Preventer - 1.71% Pendimethalin This is one of the few without nitrogen. $18 for 5k sqft.

Sta-Green Crabgrass Preventer Crab-Ex - 0.37% Prodiamine $ 20 for 5ksqft

Walmart, Ace Hardware, Tractor Supply, Meijer, Costco, Sams Club, Fleet Farm, Rural king - They all have similar products. Look at the label for the active ingredient.

If you have a larger property and/or want to use a prem only product, then these options are best. Some do involve a sprayer, but the saving will pay for the sprayer.

*Dithiopyr* is sold as water soluble or granular (apply at 0.5ai/acre rate). It is more expensive in granular form. It provides some post control to crabgrass. It is best to source it locally since shipping cost would be high (50lb bag). One of the advantages of granular is not dealing with water in the cold weather. Lesco Site One sells is as 0-0-7 at some sites (ask).

In 2021, Lowe's stores are stocking 50lb bags of this Lesco Stonewall 0.68% 0-0-7 product for about $27. It is a fairly good price. But the real money saving approach is *Prodiamine 65 WDG* is sold as a water soluble granulate. It is applied in liquid form and it is the cheapest per area ( $0.15/ksqft @ 5 grams application). It does require the use to a sprayer and the practice to do it correctly. It is best to practice in the summer with just water on your concrete driveway to get the handle of things. Once you have done it, it is easy. Here is a prodiamine calculator  Log + Tenacity + Prodiamine Calculator 

This  Turf Tip  from Zac Reicher shows in a nice graph with the rates to use. I prefer to split my spring application into 2. This has a couple of benefits. One is that it gives better control based on this 3 year summary report  Sequential Applications of Preemergence Crabgrass Herbicides for Enhanced Control - Three Year Summary . Second, life happens. An unexpected very heavy rainfall and your 6month PreM washes away. With half rate, you still have another half rate available to apply. Half is better than none.

The rate I use is 5 grams/ksqft prodiamine 65 WDG. This gives you around 3 month coverage and up to 3 applications for the year. One around March, one around May and one around August (for Poa a). And yes grams is easier to use and remember for this small amount than ounces.

*Summer*
If you followed the fall nitrogen blitz, it is not likely you will need Nitrogen until May. In May apply up to 1lb of Nitrogen per 1000 sqft of lawn. A slow release product can be a good option for a more continuous feeding. Many prefer Milogarnite or the local equivalent is a great source of organic nitrogen. It feeds the microbes in the lawn, provides iron and doesnt burn the lawn. During the summer it is a great product to use.

Tier 1 - Keep mowing and watering to survive dormancy.

Tier 2 - June and July normally do not need nitrogen. Nitrogen will force grow when the conditions are not ideal. The lawn is trying to survive the summer heat and drought conditions. Keep mowing using sharp blades. If it is a rainy summer, a light dose of nitrogen might be needed (0.5lb/N/ksqft) once.

Tier 3 - If you have irrigation, then you could maintain the lawn out of dormancy. A light dose of nitrogen could be use in June and July. Just continue to evaluate extra growth, extra watering that can lead to more fungus pressure. It is a balancing act.

*Fall*
Fall is the best time for a lawn. The summer heat is gone and some rains are starting to show up. During this time the lawn will be hungry for nitrogen and it is the best time for it to spread and thicken up. Towards the end of the fall the lawn will transition into storing energy (carbs) in the roots for winter/early spring.

All Tiers - The fall practices are listed in this article.  Fall Nitrogen Blitz

During the fall is also the best time to supress all the winter annuals weeds (ie. dandelion). They are actively growing and developing roots to survive the winter. Now is the time to spray them.

Tier 2 /3 - Poa annua is a weed that grows and develops in the fall. It also survives the winter and it shows up in the spring. The best way to handle it is with a PreM application in early fall (~August). The further south you are, then more you want to do a split application and extend the protection further into winter.

* Winter *
Watch the snow, watch Netflix and plan for next year. You could also check the warm season guys doing a PGR overseed or the members in the south hemisphere.

*Other items*​
* Renovations and Overseeds *
Spring is *not* the time to grow grass from seeds since it is really hard to keep the young grass alive during the summer. The best time is late summer (~August). Most new member research overseeding in early March. I get it, the yard looks bad from the winter and you want to do something about it. But throwing seeds in the spring is just wasting money. Focus on PreM and fertilizer and prep for the fall. This is the Cool Season Overseed Guide for more info into overseeding in the fall.

Like everything, there are exceptions. Sometimes you have to do a spring seeding (ie. new construction, utility company dig a hole, etc). It is possible to do the spring, but you need a robust irrigation strategy. You will not be able to use a PreM right away, so crabgrass will be a problem.  Spring Seeding Tips . Tenacity will help with weeds for ~30days.

One question that gets asked a lot, _"Could I overseed my mix/PR/Fescue lawn with KBG?"_ Many of us have tried and wasted our money. KBG is slow to grow from seed. You could mow your existing lawn low, use a grow regulator to slow the grow and plant the KBG seeds, but the existing lawn will continue to grow and it will outgrow the KBG. The young KBG will be shaded by the taller existing lawn, it will be walked on when you mow and it doesn't develops enough to survive the winter or summer. Sorry, if you want KBG, a renovation is the way to go.

Tier 2.5 - 3 Renovation
I think renovations should only be done once you have at *least 1 year* of robust practices and experiences. This means that your spray applications are even, you have a way to irrigate the area to keep the soil moist, can identify weeds/fungus and quickly react to them, etc. I've seen experienced members fail a renovation and have a mud yard due to one mistake or one strong rain. Yo've been warned, so here is the  Renovation Guide .

* Aeration*
This is a subject that brings a lot of opinions in favor and against it.
Pros

Proper aeration with multiple holes will provide *oxygen* to the soil.
Breaks the thatch layer of the lawn
Reduce mechanical compaction
Increases rooting
*Allows adding compost (organic matter) into the soil*
Cons

The exposed soil from the plugs makes an environment that could grow weeds
Breaks the PreM protection in the soil
In a healthy soil with good organic content and earthworm it is not needed, since the worms will aerate for you.
Common mistakes

The holes have to go deep (2-3 inches) and 20-40 holes per square foot. Most machines can't do this without multiple passes and a very moist soil.
The lawn has to be actively growing (Spring or Fall) for it to recover from the damage.

* Collaborators*
Social Port

_ References _
https://turf.purdue.edu/tips/2009/02202009_Premergence.html
How to Select a Crabgrass Preventer from the Store – Homeowners
Mowing, Thatching, Aerifying, and Rolling Turf
Maintenance Calendar for Indiana Lawns

Licensed Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0)


Creative Commons — Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International — CC BY-NC-SA 4.0


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## g-man

Reserved


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## g-man

Reserved


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## g-man

Reserved


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## Redtenchu

I love the Tier system! Thank you for starting this.


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## Ware

This thread supersedes the "Popular Cool Season Threads" sticky, so I am replacing it with this one. I think we will still stick with the one sticky thread per subforum, but g-man covered the bases with the index of popular topics above. Excellent work. :thumbup:


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## Ridgerunner

+1 :thumbup:


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## dfw_pilot

Thanks for the fantastic addition to the site. I love to see people take ownership like this.


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## gregonfire

Thanks for doing this. Quick question regarding early spring pre-m.

I'm thinking of going the granular Dithiopyr route.. I can't find a local place near me that carries granular without the nitrogen. Would it be ok to go with the Lesco 19-0-7 that HD carries or go a different route?


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## g-man

gregonfire said:


> I'm thinking of going the granular Dithiopyr route.. I can't find a local place near me that carries granular without the nitrogen. Would it be ok to go with the Lesco 19-0-7 that HD carries or go a different route?


Going the Lesco route is ok. It is the Tier 1 approach. The minor issue is feeding the lawn and pushing grow in early spring. The benefits of the PreM are worth it in my opinion.

I've created a thread here for members to post the known local sources of lawn products. Check to see if there is a place close to you. Local Sources I will also add it to the main post.


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## ericgautier

gregonfire said:


> I can't find a local place near me that carries granular without the nitrogen.


Check out a SiteOne in your area. I remember Tsmith getting 0-0-7 there. But, cost wise.. I would push you to get Prodiamine.


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## gregonfire

Thanks for the info guys, I found a siteone location nearby. Didn't know they sold to homeowners though. Thanks!


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## jessehurlburt

I am planning an overseed restoration in the Fall of 2018 but lost a section (maybe 50-70 sq') to grubs this past year and want to fix that area in the spring. Along with the helpful info in this PDF that gman shared, I am wondering if I might be better off using 100% PRG for fast germination with the understanding I will be overseeding with TTTF in the fall. My thinking is just get a place holder there as quickly as possible to keep the weeds out until fall. Even if I loose the grass to heat in the late summer, I really dont care since I will fix in the fall, I really just want to keep mud off the dogs paws for the April-August time frame.. Obviously skip the Prodiamine in that area and use tenacity for the seeding..

Spring Seeding Tips: http://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/AY/AY-20-W.pdf


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## GrassDaddy

Great job on this!!


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## gregonfire

A local turf company near me says they have granular 0-0-7 + prodiamine (.37), is this a good route to go or should I still try to find the 0-0-7 dithiopyr?


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## g-man

Yes that works too. Sometimes it is harder to find.


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## gregonfire

g-man said:


> Yes that works too. Sometimes it is harder to find.


Thanks again g-man!


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## LIgrass

Awesome info here g-man!!


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## Togo

This is an amazing thread! Thank you for this.


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## WithBBQSauce

I have seen some suggestions of doing an early application of prodiamine and a June application of dimension. Seems a little overkill to me but wanted to get your thoughts. Thanks.


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## g-man

No overkill. I do something similar. I want year long protection for weeds. I've been switching my approach over the years. Dimensions (granular) in early spring, then the rest of the year is prodiamine(spray). The spring preM protects against crabgrass, the fall one protects against POA annua (among other winter annuals).


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## MarkAguglia

g-man said:


> No overkill. I do something similar. I want year long protection for weeds. I've been switching my approach over the years. Dimensions (granular) in early spring, then the rest of the year is prodiamine(spray). The spring preM protects against crabgrass, the fall one protects against POA annua (among other winter annuals).


Do you ever have to skip in the fall to overseed? I always wind up with bare spots or bad areas that need reseeding due to the dogs and just general foot traffic/conditions.


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## g-man

I don't overseed. With kbg, there is no need. This is from another post that someone asked a similar question.



g-man said:


> KBG doesnt need overseed like TTTF. Proper fertilization will make it spread and cover any holes. I moved an irrigation head last September. KBG spreaded so much that I cant find the head this year (HOC at ~45mm). I know it is within a 2ft area. Once I turn on the zone, I will find it.


So I finally found the head. Here is a picture. It is in the center. Do you see it ? It feels like playing Where is Waldo?



There was dirt around this head in September. I made a 5in hole for the head and back filled it with soil. The kbg filled it.



That black nozzle is like a nickle in size.


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## Green Monstah

Hello all, new to the post and looking forward to take my lawn skills to the next level with all the good collective knowledge in here. Here are some pics of my lawn last season:


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## social port

@Green Monstah Bravo! The grass looks great. I like the fence too.
A lot of forum members keep a thread to help them track work and progress throughout the year. 
Cool name! Welcome to TLF :thumbup:


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## Green Monstah

Thanks @s@social port its been a work in progress...


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## GrassDaddy

Very nice!


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## Druet

Hello TLF. Can't wait to expand my knowledge. Thanks @GrassDaddy for all you do. Recently picked up an hrx after watching Allen and your reviews. Grass season is in it's prime here in southern Illinois.


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## Ldware9

I know seeding in the spring is a waste but when you have no turf to start with is it that bad (was really annoying me not having any grass in my back yard)Just bought my house 18months ago and had nothing in my back yard but dirt. Started seeding in February and now have a lush green turf. Plan to over seed this fall to thicken it up a bit more.


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## g-man

Welcome to TLF. Yes, sometimes we have to make lemonade. Spring seeding is possible, but it is just more challenging. Try to get quinclorac for the crabgrass that could pop up or hand pull it. Don't skimp on watering during the July heat/droughts.


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## Ldware9

Sprayed my yard for weed earlier this morning and I already see the weeds dieing. I have my sprinklers set to water twice a week right now but may go up to 3 times a week if my yard starts to show signs of stress. This coming weekend I'm going to throw down some grubex and a fungicide to help fight anything else that may happen. Used a group3 fungicide earlier this month so going to use a group11 to help prevent any fungus wiping out the yard. It's already feeling like summer here and the whole week of spring that we got was short lived to say the least lol.


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## Winklestork

Strong work. Under Areation->Common Mistakes, there is a typo -- it says there should be "20-40 holes per square inch" -- it should read "20-40 holes per square foot".


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## g-man

Fixed, thanks.


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## KarmicDebt

g-man said:


> *Cool Season Guide*​
> * Renovations and Overseeds *
> Spring is *not* the time to grow grass from seeds since it is really hard to keep the young grass alive during the summer. The best time is late summer (~August). Most new member research overseeding in early March. I get it, the yard looks bad from the winter and you want to do something about it. But throwing seeds in the spring is just wasting money. Focus on PreM and fertilizer and prep for the fall.
> 
> Like everything, there are exceptions. Sometimes you have to do a spring seeding (ie. new construction, utility company dig a hole, etc). It is possible to do the spring, but you need a robust irrigation strategy. You will not be able to use a PreM right away, so crabgrass will be a problem.  Spring Seeding Tips . Tenacity will help with weeds for ~30days.


I have done renovations in the spring, mid summer and the fall and I personally prefer mid Spring and Summer. There is no question, you have to keep the seeds moist, but I have found that 3, 10 minute watering sessions per day with peat moss cover works just fine in 80 degree weather. I find that the grass establishes a lot faster in the hot weather as well.

If the days are mid 90s, or into the hundreds, it might be a lot more challenging. I have only had to deal with the occasional 90+ degree day.


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## g-man

@KarmicDebt the PNW is an exception in the weather pattern compared to the most of the central, Midwest and eastern USA. I will update to make it clear.


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## KarmicDebt

g-man said:


> @KarmicDebt the PNW is an exception in the weather pattern compared to the most of the central, Midwest and eastern USA. I will update to make it clear.


Thanks g-man!


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## jboss10

It looks like the Irrigation Tutorial link is broken. Fantastic setup for new guys, like myself. Thank you!


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## g-man

@jboss10 thanks for letting me know. I fixed it. That was the intent of the guide, to provide enough info to get you started while trying not to be too much. Feel free to start a thread and ask questions or guidance. Fall is approaching and it is the best time to improve your lawn.


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## ryeguy

The fall nitrogen blitz link points to the old locked topic instead of the 2018 topic.


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## g-man

@ryeguy Yes, the link discusses the program. The 2018 is to discuss this year specifics (weather, timing)


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## RUBZERK

Hello. New to this forum and lawn care. 
Last year we purchased a new home with an acre of grass. Looked good last year and now, not so good. 
I'm interested in having a 1.5 level lawn. I want green and don't mind shopping above the big box stores. I have time but lack knowledge.


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## g-man

Welcome. I would suggest doing the fall nitrogen blitz. Link below.


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## theconcretevegan

This thread is definitely what I am going to need when I move into my new house at the end of the month. Thank you. Hopefully I can get pictures of the lawn posted soon. It needs HELP.


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## Highyellow1

Hello all. Recent Air Force retiree that will soon have a yard i don't have to worry about leaving anytime soon. Looking to gain some knowledge and skill while obtaining the best yard in the area.

I think I'm at the right place!


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## Mdos




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## ericgautier

Mdos said:


>


 :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## Olkutty

Findlotsize link is no longer working. Just a heads up.

Absolutely amazing thread! Thank you so much for the free resource! I know it took a long time to write it up, and I'm truly thankful for it! @g-man


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## Tkls2016

@g-man my university sent me back my soil sample and recommended I fertilize with ammonium sulfate since my PH was a little high. All I have access to in my area looks like spray grade from rural King is this acceptable to use as fertilizer or is there a difference? Thanks


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## g-man

It works. It might be too small for a granular spreader, but it the same thing (21-0-0). A co-op might have ams or ask the university for assistance.


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## DonInTheLawn

a quick question. I'm in Cincinnati and we haven't had much rain lately. It rained a tiny bit monday night and it's not supposed to rain again until next monday. At this time of year, do i need a supplemental watering in between, or am I fine?


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## g-man

In Indy, our lawns are using 0.07in of water per day. If you don't have rain, then you should supplement with 0.5in once a week.


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## Ned

Thank you so much, this has been so helpful especially for a newbie like me.


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## PLOmaha

Is a pre-emergent necessary here in the PNW where crabgrass isn't an issue?


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## g-man

For crabgrass, not likely, but it can help with POA a.


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## 1028mountain

Not for nothing @g-man but you start with spring then go to "summer to do list." Shouldn't it read "spring to do list?"

Also what do you suggest about existing weeds from a mild winter? CCO and follow with a pre-m?


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## Rezer

Hey I'm new to this forum and lawn care! Under Spring, it lists a Summer to-do list, then has a separate Summer section later on. Is that a mistake and it should be a Spring to-do list?


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## g-man

@Rezer typo. I fixed it. Thanks


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## NWGALawn706

I have somehow missed/over-looked this since I joined!! Great info!!!


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## mrgisa

First post here. Awesome stuff! I will definitely be looking back to this thread again and again. Thank you for posting it!

Mr. Gisa


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## kay7711226

@g-man found this to be very useful identifing turf, easy slide presentation mode. Worthy of a sticky thread?
https://www.slideshare.net/mobile/osuhorticulture/vegetative-identification-of-common-turfgrasses-in-the-pacific-northwest


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## Creppin

g-man said:


> In Indy, our lawns are using 0.07in of water per day. If you don't have rain, then you should supplement with 0.5in once a week.


@g-man is there a source on where you get the lawn water usage? Or is that a specific device you have installed. I think here in PA the 10 day again has no rain forecasted, albeit cool. Therefore, just trying to schedule out how much, if any/when to supplement with water.

The .5" in this example only being once per week would anything over .5" be twice a week for example?


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## g-man

@Creppin ET and irrigation guide


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## Creppin

g-man said:


> @Creppin ET and irrigation guide


Thank you! I should have known. I'll have to re-read it as there's a lot of good info to comprehend.


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## Jdurham

Hey guys first time posting so hope I'm in the right area to look for some guidance. I live in Colorado just north of Denver area and I'm looking to put a putting green in my yard next spring. I was wonder what grass type would be best for this application. I currently have a Kentucky blue and rye mix but it rough so at the beginning of next year I was going to bring in top soil sand mix to level out after cutting it short and possibly seed for the putting green. Any help or advice would be appreciated! Thanks.


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## dfw_pilot

Jdurham said:


> Hey guys first time posting so hope I'm in the right area to look for some guidance. I live in Colorado just north of Denver area and I'm looking to put a putting green in my yard next spring. I was wonder what grass type would be best for this application. I currently have a Kentucky blue and rye mix but it rough so at the beginning of next year I was going to bring in top soil sand mix to level out after cutting it short and possibly seed for the putting green. Any help or advice would be appreciated! Thanks.


Welcome to TLF. You'll definitely want to start a new thread for this. Cheers.


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## tbrewer02

As someone new here, this guide has been so helpful! Thanks for putting this together and pinning.


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## SixteenLaramie

@g-man Can you point me to the right thread that talks about fertilizers. I am preparing a calendar/guide using this site for support. This Cool Season guide doesn't talk much about fertilizers, nitrogen, urea, etc. When to throw down, how much, etc. I know the basics but need those fine tune recommendations. I've looked at Greene County Fert, Protene, N-Ext, biostimulants, air8, green punch, RGS, micro nutrients, liquid vs. granular. There is just so much to look at and I need a yearly plan before spring gets here. Thanks in advance!


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## g-man

You will not find that info without reading each vendor product label. The products change so much and there are so many choices that it will take someone a lot of time to maintain it. The general recommendation is to not exceed 1lb of nitrogen per 1000sqft when the grass is growing. You want to maintain a healthy grow of around 1in/week based on weather. Do a soil test and address the soil issues first. Use a good lab with known test methods. Check the first thread in the soil folder for more info.


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## john5246

SixteenLaramie said:


> @g-man Can you point me to the right thread that talks about fertilizers. I am preparing a calendar/guide using this site for support. This Cool Season guide doesn't talk much about fertilizers, nitrogen, urea, etc. When to throw down, how much, etc. I know the basics but need those fine tune recommendations. I've looked at Greene County Fert, Protene, N-Ext, biostimulants, air8, green punch, RGS, micro nutrients, liquid vs. granular. There is just so much to look at and I need a yearly plan before spring gets here. Thanks in advance!


Hey just want to add that if you like a certain product or want to support a certain company because you like it then by all means go for it. But you don't need any of those products to have a great lawn.

Here is what I used last year:

Lesco 24-0-11 (from home depot)
Urea 46-0-0 (site one, about $50/bag)

Prodiamine as pre-emergent
Ironite (to add iron)

Humic acid powder from Kelp4Less ($20)
SLS powder (soap, to help soften soil)

Any store bought fertilizer with phosphorus as needed.

My total cost, including fungicide applications was probably less than $100 for 5k sq feet. Do not think you need to buy gimmicky products to have a great lawn. Mowing one extra time per week and keeping a sharp blade will do wonders for your lawn, more than any gimmicky product.


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## nebulli

Quick questions.

1. If I did not do the Fall Nitrogen blitz last year, can I eliminate early nitrogen use this spring as the guide recommends? 
2. For the month of May it states to add 1lb/1000sqft of N (which is still Spring) so I am a little confused if the goal is to eliminate any N use or just minimize it until Fall comes?


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## g-man

I was doing some general updates to the guide to make it more clear. I think I addressed your questions, but I'm not done with the updates.

If no prior nitrogen to the lawn (eg fall), then go ahead. It will be better than starving it. Try not to go too crazy and target around 1in of leaf growth/week.

The main goal is healthy growth. Throwing down nitrogen when the conditions are not favorable is just going to give more problems. 0 nitrogen for 6 months can also give you problems. Find a balance to manage the growth rate.


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## nebulli

g-man said:


> I was doing some general updates to the guide to make it more clear. I think I addressed your questions, but I'm not done with the updates.
> 
> If no prior nitrogen to the lawn (eg fall), then go ahead. It will be better than starving it. Try not to go too crazy and target around 1in of leaf growth/week.
> 
> The main goal is healthy growth. Throwing down nitrogen when the conditions are not favorable is just going to give more problems. 0 nitrogen for 6 months can also give you problems. Find a balance to manage the growth rate.


Thanks for feedback. I did put some nitrogen down last fall but it was part of Overseeding. Looking forward to the update.


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## spaceman_spiff

First off, amazing guide, thank you so much.

Couple questions:
- At what point should I let my grass grow to 4" for the summer heat? A certain air temp? Soil temp? It's starting to hit mid 80s here in Northern California pretty regularly and I don't want keep it too short like I did last summer and nuke the lawn. The green cast online site says local soil temps are currently 80 degrees today.
- I applied Prodiamine as (amount per the label, can't remember exact numbers) in late Feb when the soil temps were 55' here. Should I do another app before the summer, and one in the fall just before winter? I've got poa popping up everywhere and I've been dropping bi-weekly Tenacity on the spots, but want to make sure I have it properly controlled for next season.


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## g-man

1) HOC is a personal choice. Pick a HOC and go for it.
2) there is an annual maximum of prodiamine that you need to maintain. Most weeds will grow either in the spring or fall. In irrigated lawn, the summer is also viable. Try to split the annual to produce coverage to the seasons that cause your area the most trouble.


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## piotrkol

A question from me. It'll probably be a simple one for you guys, but it's new territory for me so any advice is very much appreciated 

In short - I managed to get my hands on some prodiamine (Prodiamine 65 WDG) which is not an easy thing to do in europe. I got about 100g (3,5oz). I want to plan out the application of it to get maximum effect and protection against Poa Annua (other grassy weeds are no factor for me). My lawn is 2500sq ft (240m2), and I live in a climate very similar to Chicago.

How would you guys handle this? Should I wait till fall for my first app? Repeat in the spring time? I think that putting it down now is a waste as poa a is already out and about with summer approaching fast. As I mentioned I got a limited amount so I want to be smart about it  
Cheers!


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## g-man

Use around 5g/92sqm. I would target it around late july or when the temps start to go down to 22C.

By the way 100g is plenty for a few years.


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## piotrkol

Thanks @g-man 
5g/92sqm does make my 100g quite a bit then, that's good to hear  I'll mark the temp. down and keep an eye on it! 
Also starting to go through some pre-e videos and articles. Never had this opportunity before so I didn't bother learning the amounts or dates of putting it down


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## Cagnomark

This is nothing short of Awesome!


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## jackallis

g-man said:


> You will not find that info without reading each vendor product label. The products change so much and there are so many choices that it will take someone a lot of time to maintain it. The general recommendation is to not exceed 1lb of nitrogen per 1000sqft when the grass is growing. You want to maintain a healthy grow of around 1in/week based on weather. Do a soil test and address the soil issues first. Use a good lab with known test methods. Check the first thread in the soil folder for more info.


Here is the question i had asked in the forum before - did not get response. 
how much N do i need to apply for new grass seed/new lawn, in fall?
Is it .25#/1000sq ft 14 DAG and then same rate at 30 DAG? How much to put after? Do i still follow Fall N blitz as the guide says?


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## cubsfan24

jackallis said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> You will not find that info without reading each vendor product label. The products change so much and there are so many choices that it will take someone a lot of time to maintain it. The general recommendation is to not exceed 1lb of nitrogen per 1000sqft when the grass is growing. You want to maintain a healthy grow of around 1in/week based on weather. Do a soil test and address the soil issues first. Use a good lab with known test methods. Check the first thread in the soil folder for more info.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the question i had asked in the forum before - did not get response.
> how much N do i need to apply for new grass seed/new lawn, in fall?
> Is it .25#/1000sq ft 14 DAG and then same rate at 30 DAG? How much to put after? Do i still follow Fall N blitz as the guide says?
Click to expand...

Just as reference, I followed the fall blitz guide, and it grew in awesome last year!


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## cubsfan24

jackallis said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> You will not find that info without reading each vendor product label. The products change so much and there are so many choices that it will take someone a lot of time to maintain it. The general recommendation is to not exceed 1lb of nitrogen per 1000sqft when the grass is growing. You want to maintain a healthy grow of around 1in/week based on weather. Do a soil test and address the soil issues first. Use a good lab with known test methods. Check the first thread in the soil folder for more info.
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the question i had asked in the forum before - did not get response.
> how much N do i need to apply for new grass seed/new lawn, in fall?
> Is it .25#/1000sq ft 14 DAG and then same rate at 30 DAG? How much to put after? Do i still follow Fall N blitz as the guide says?
Click to expand...

Just as reference, I followed the fall blitz guide, and it grew in awesome last year!


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## BadgersFanFan

SixteenLaramie said:


> @g-man Can you point me to the right thread that talks about fertilizers. I am preparing a calendar/guide using this site for support. This Cool Season guide doesn't talk much about fertilizers, nitrogen, urea, etc. When to throw down, how much, etc. I know the basics but need those fine tune recommendations. I've looked at Greene County Fert, Protene, N-Ext, biostimulants, air8, green punch, RGS, micro nutrients, liquid vs. granular. There is just so much to look at and I need a yearly plan before spring gets here. Thanks in advance!


In regard to a calendar, Mother Nature's calendar will always trump the Gregorian calendar. When I first started taking better care of my lawn, I obsessed over target dates on the calendar and eventually learned to focus more on soil/air temps.

Soil temps will dictate when you should apply pre-emergent in the Spring and Fall. Air temps will tell you when to slow down/stop fertilizing in the summer.

Most fertilizer is applied in 4, 6, 8 or 10 week intervals, depending on what you're throwing down.

If you insist on a calendar as a point-of-reference/learning tool, I found this one helpful when I was first starting out: HandyDadTV | Lawn Care Plan

But I quickly moved away from it because, for example, you should not drop 1 lb of N on your lawn when temps have been over 90 degrees for the previous 10 days w/no rain just because a calendar says it's time to throw down.


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## scz71864

@g-man Im am trying out a TTTF KBG mix from GCI this year for a reno. I noticed the guide says that im wasting my time trying to get the KBG to grow. Do you think that still applies? Pete @ gci had germination with his KBG reno in 5-6 days.


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## g-man

The statement is around overseed. In an overseed, it is a waste of money in my opinion. In a reno from bare soil, no the TTTF/KBG or PRG/KBG mix works. Germination is not what matters. It is how much is grows in the first 30 days.


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## Tay-Han-Solo

Hey Everyone! new to the forum and new to owning a yard. i put alot of work into the rental property we had and i was able to cut the weeds down with two applications of ortho weedclear lawn weed killer. it did the trick and really killed everything...i even over-sprayed an area of grass i didn't want and it brought it to its knees. Now that im in our first house, i want to treat this properly and maintain it for a tier 1 yard. after reading through this i am going to get a soil sample tested since i have no idea how this lawn was handled before me.

While im waiting to do that, is there an issue with laying down a treatment of Sta-Green, Scotts Halt, or Lesco Stonewall? im ordering a bottle of Prodiamine 65 WDG but i might wait until mid year like some of you mentioned. OR should i not do ANYTHING and wait to see what my test results are? For the record, the Forsythia surrounding my yard are somewhere between just starting to show buds and about to bloom.


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