# First cut with GM 1000



## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

So I couldn't wait to try my new GM1000. The rain had stopped and the ground only seemed kind of damp. I played with bedknife adjustment until I could cut paper clean (see other thread).

I fired it up first pull. Away from everything I engaged the drive. I have named my mower "bucking bronco". This thing will pull you straight out of your shoes. It took some getting used to.

I cut (scalp) at 0.500" but no one kill me: the dealer set the HOC and I did a poor mans check. Don't have a gauge yet.

I did a perimeter pass. I couldn't seem to get to the edge of the grass. It would leave a strip, I was scared to go closer and hit the reel on concrete, and in certain areas one side of the roller would have all the traction and try to pull me onto concrete. Not sure how to fix that.

On the straight passes, I could tell I was nervous about going to far (onto concrete or into fence) so I would lift the front and/or disengage the drive too soon leaving a patch.

I did a double cut (although not completely perpendicular) and as of this moment I'd have to give it a 4/10.

Maybe it will take some getting used to and some practice. Maybe I need to adjust some things or maybe my yard is just that lumpy. But honestly it didn't cut evenly. The cut within each row is smooth but you can see what I mean from pics. My son came running out screaming "what did you do?!? Your grass doesn't look good anymore!!!"


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## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

Haha, I remember using my greens Mower the first time... It takes time, you'll make some mistakes, it might even scare you a little. With (lots) more practice, you'll be a pro!


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Redtenchu said:


> Haha, I remember using my greens Mower the first time... It takes time, you'll make some mistakes, it might even scare you a little. With (lots) more practice, you'll be a pro!


Any ideas on the unevenness (seen best in 3rd pic)? Maybe a triple cut going right at it? I would hate to triple cut every time I mow...

Also, I can't seem to keep this thing in a straight line :lol: It's going so fast that every bump makes it go all over the place. I tried to throttle down some, but I could barely go down before it would start to idle rough and engaging the drive would kill the engine...so I basically ran at 97% throttle :lol:


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Oh and yes it did scare me to death a few times! 9/10 times when I pulled the lever to disengage the drive it would quit immediately, but every once in a while it would have a 1sec delay and keep trying to drive...I can only imagine my neighbors guts are hurting from laughing at me so hard.


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## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

It'll get better, are you raising the HOC now that you've scalped?


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Redtenchu said:


> Haha, I remember using my greens Mower the first time... It takes time, you'll make some mistakes, it might even scare you a little. With (lots) more practice, you'll be a pro!


Agree. A greensmower is a handful at first. :thumbup:

A few thoughts...

You should be able to mow at less than 97% throttle. You could have some carb issues. Slowing it down is not only necessary at times, but it will really help build your confidence.

It's definitely scalped in places, so it looks worse than it is, and I definitely see some leveling work in your future.

Don't give up, and remember a reel mower is just one piece of the puzzle. This was cut with the same mower, but I can assure you it didn't look like this on day one. I think raldridge2315 really said it best here - there is no instant gratification in this journey. :thumbup:


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

I do plan on raising HOC now that it's scalped...but I'm not sure since it's not scalped evenly. Seems as though not starting with a good base will only make future problems more profound...I'm definitely going to level, but not sure how soon.

How do I check for carb issues?


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

So I went against the old saying that "the enemy of good is better". Once the rain stopped again and I saw some sunlight, I went out and finished one patch as well as cutting the main lawn in a different direction. I THINK it looks a little better. It definitely made more scalps/brown areas but I didn't want to have an uneven scalp as the foundation when I raise the HOC. On a plus note, I don't think I'll have to water for a week and a half with the rain from the last 2 days.


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## dfw_pilot (Jan 28, 2017)

I basically mow at idle, or a touch above it.


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## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

dfw_pilot said:


> I basically mow at idle, or a touch above it.


+1


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Well when I went out the second time it was a little better...maybe I just hadn't let it warm up enough. Still couldn't go all the way down (not sure if you're supposed to be able to or not) but I did go down maybe 50% and it was better. I was also getting the hang of operating it without killing myself.

However, there were a few times that I disengaged the drive lever and it kept going....i went in circles until I killed the motor. Started it up and it took off again :shock:


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## southernguy311 (Mar 17, 2017)

99% certain that your first cut was basically surfing on top of the puffy grass. This happens to everyone at some point or another. My suggestion would be to anyone who can:

Scalp, verticut, scalp again


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

southernguy311 said:


> 99% certain that your first cut was basically surfing on top of the puffy grass. This happens to everyone at some point or another. My suggestion would be to anyone who can:
> 
> Scalp, verticut, scalp again


Don't think I have the resources to verticut...have to do some research. But do you think the lawn looks more even after the 3rd cut? (triple I guess :lol


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## Topcat (Mar 21, 2017)

Definitely, see a need to do a little leveling. I am getting similar scalping issues in few spots in my lawn. I originally planned on leveling this past weekend, but the Holiday and out of town visitors caused a delay to this coming weekend.


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Yea I do need to level. I'm sure this is a trend on this forum but my wife is ready to skin me after buying a fiskars mower, 2 spreaders, fert, a backpack sprayer, Celsius, penterra, and a greens mower. I'm thinking a leveling project will not go over well...


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Sand for leveling is not all that expensive - it's just labor intensive.

Could you physically feel the mower bouncing around on he bumps?


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Ware said:


> Sand for leveling is not all that expensive - it's just labor intensive.
> 
> Could you physically feel the mower bouncing around on he bumps?


I'd say yes but I don't have a gauge for how bouncy = unlevel. I feel like it was better the second time when the mower was going slower and not running across the lawn.

How far can you guys throttle down before the mower turns off?


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

Ware said:


> .... it's just labor intensive.


Uhhh yeah


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

I just feel like I'd cake it on so thick that it would be next spring before I see green again lol


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> I just feel like I'd cake it on so thick that it would be next spring before I see green again lol


Nah, we have 4+ months of growing season left... I'm hoping to add some sand in the next few weeks.


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## thegardentool (Jun 14, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> How far can you guys throttle down before the mower turns off?


I have not had a chance to mow the yard with my GM 1000 yet because it's set to something low like 3/16. But in testing it I noticed the same symptoms as yours that I had to keep the throttle turned up full speed. No way I could mow my yard at those speeds. dfw_pilot directed this to me http://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=102#p1254 but I have not had a chance to try it.


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

thegardentool said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> > How far can you guys throttle down before the mower turns off?
> ...


I'll try having a look at that little screw inlet thing...but mine definitely doesn't sound that way at idle. It just can't go more than like 60-70% full throttle. If I put throttle down as far as it will go then it dies. If I get it down to like 20% throttle and try to engage the drive/reels it dies. This could be normal for all I know...not sure how far you are SUPPOSED to be able to throttle down.


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Also...should my reel spin freely like this? Because it definitely doesn't :? 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8v5EmIoAlA


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## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

If you take off all your belts it might spin free(er), but there is too much belt tension on a walking greens mower. The guy in this video is using a reel from a triplex that is driven by hydrolics. It also appears to be a brand new cutting unit. Your reel won't spin free like that.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> I'll try having a look at that little screw inlet thing...but mine definitely doesn't sound that way at idle. It just can't go more than like 60-70% full throttle. If I put throttle down as far as it will go then it dies. If I get it down to like 20% throttle and try to engage the drive/reels it dies. This could be normal for all I know...not sure how far you are SUPPOSED to be able to throttle down.


Here is a link to the *Kawasaki FE120 Service Manual*. The carburetor is discussed in sections 3-2 through 3-6. It describes the basic functions of each system (pilot, main, choke and float), disassembly/reassembly, as well as adjustment procedures. Here is a link the the *Toro GM1000 Service Manual*. Throttle control adjustment is discussed on page 3-6. I would work through both of those adjustment procedures and make sure everything is set where it is supposed to be. If that doesn't help you may have to dig into the carb. A lot of these mowers sit for extended periods of time, so you may have a clogged jet or something. The only carbs I know much about are the kind you eat, so beyond that I'm not much help. :lol:

Also, go here and enter the model number of your mower (found on the serial number plate on the frame). Click on the link of the serial number range that your mower falls into and download both the *Operator Manual* and *Parts Catalog*. I would start by reading the Operator Manual cover to cover. It will 1) help give you an understanding of how everything is supposed to work, and 2) help you do routine adjustments/maintenance tasks. Then familiarize yourself with what's in the Toro and Kawasaki service manuals - they are valuable references for non-routine maintenance tasks (e.g. carb adjustments, belt replacements, etc). The Parts Catalog is a handy reference if you have to have to take something apart.

Don't let this next statement discourage you (because most of us here are in the same boat), but just remember that you bought a >10 year old machine that a golf course for one reason or another decided was no longer worth keeping. A brand new one would have cost 10x what you paid, so with it should come a reasonable expectation that you may have to do some maintenance as things wear out/need attention. And hey, if it was easy, everyone would do it. :thumbup:


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

I can try the carb cleaning/adjustment. I had to read it like 5x just to partially understand. I'm pretty handy and tech/engine savvy but not so much with small engines (all compact and twisted).

Some of it isn't explained well in manual (like keep throttle level closed)...not even sure what that means.

Might give it a whirl today...if the wife doesn't get me for "being in lawn land" :lol:


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Ok so before I disconnect and remove carb, do I need to drain gas or anything? Someone needs to make a video of carb cleaning and adjusting that pilot screw :lol:


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## dfw_pilot (Jan 28, 2017)

You can drain the tank or just use the fuel shutoff valve. I took my tank off, and scrubbed it real well because when they sit with fuel in them, it gunks things up. If you clean the carb, but not the junk in the tank, the next time you run it, a piece of junk will break off and clog the carb jets again.

I took the pilot jet screw out, linked above, and used the smallest needle I could find to make sure it was clear. Once clear, the mower would idle very well at the lowest throttle setting. If you can blow through that tiny hole, it's clear.


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

dfw_pilot said:


> You can drain the tank or just use the fuel shutoff valve. I took my tank off, and scrubbed it real well because when they sit with fuel in them, it gunks things up. If you clean the carb, but not the junk in the tank, the next time you run it, a piece of junk will break off and clog the carb jets again.
> 
> I took the pilot jet screw out, linked above, and used the smallest needle I could find to make sure it was clear. Once clear, the mower would idle very well at the lowest throttle setting. If you can blow through that tiny hole, it's clear.


So if I shut the fuel valve off and then disconnect the carb gas won't go everywhere? Don't want a mess.

Also, once I remove and clean the pilot jet screw, don't I need to "calibrate" it like manual says as opposed to just screwing it back in?


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> ...Someone needs to make a video of carb cleaning and adjusting that pilot screw :lol:


That's a great idea! Sounds like you're the next one that will be doing it - hit record! :lol: :thumbup:


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Ware said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> > ...Someone needs to make a video of carb cleaning and adjusting that pilot screw :lol:
> ...


Bahahaha - someone who knows what they're doing for tutorial purposes. Not so everyone else can have a good laugh 😂


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

I'm wanting to scalp it again today because there are still uneven spots...but feel like I need to leave it alone too haha


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

So I gave it another double cut/scalp. Couldn't stand it being uneven (even if it is just a scalp). Looks much smoother to me. And yes...now that I can pay attention to lawn and not avoiding fences and small children, I can feel how lumpy the lawn is.

I didn't end up messing with carb. I took out pilot screw and it seemed pretty clear. I was about to get it throttled pretty low and cut. MUCH more comfortable with cutting, engage/disengaging drive, turning, etc. Now to let the sprinklers do their work and go on vacation for a week. Sure hope it's green when I get back.


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Ware said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> > Other than using this as a sort of pseudo-verticutter, how can I get my hands on a true verticutter?
> ...


Ok - I can pretty easily get an overseeder at a tool rental place within a few miles of my house. I know people verticut during season (not just at scalp time)...but would it be smart for me to? Not sure when is correct time to do it. As a side note, I don't think my lawn has ever had any type of aeration, verticutting, detaching, etc....And I haven't engaged the groomers on my GM just yet.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> ...I know people verticut during season (not just at scalp time)...but would it be smart for me to?


I pulled your verticutting question back over here to keep things tidy.

SG311's comment kind of got glanced over on page 1, but I think he made a really good point when he said:



southernguy311 said:


> 99% certain that your first cut was basically surfing on top of the puffy grass. This happens to everyone at some point or another. My suggestion would be to anyone who can:
> 
> Scalp, verticut, scalp again


If verticutting/dethatching is back on the table, I would probably do just what he said (scalp, verticut, then scalp again). I would do that ahead of applying sand as it will really help open things up and let the sand down into the canopy/low spots. It won't look good, but it will recover, and I feel like that's probably the shortest path to where you ultimately want to be.


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Going out of town for a week starting tomorrow. Was hoping it would be greening up and ready for a cut at 0.625" when I got back. Looks like a verticutting and scalp plus sand need to happen instead


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> Going out of town for a week starting tomorrow. Was hoping it would be greening up and ready for a cut at 0.625" when I got back...


And it won't hurt a thing to do just that - give it a cut when you return and see how it looks. If you're not happy, then think about dethatching and/or leveling. What I was saying is if you decide you're going to level _and_ dethatch, I would dethatch first, then add sand.


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Ware said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> > Going out of town for a week starting tomorrow. Was hoping it would be greening up and ready for a cut at 0.625" when I got back...
> ...


 :thumbup: I'll probably come back and cut at 0.625" and see how it looks. I have feeling i'll be doing a scalp, verticut, scalp, sand treatment 

I have a rental place that has dethatcher and overseeder, but as best I can tell they all have flail blades as opposed to fixed. Maybe I should just buy that one off amazon (almost same price to buy that one as it is to rent for a day)


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## southernguy311 (Mar 17, 2017)

Fwiw

9 inches of rain in June at my house
21 days of rain - insane

My front lawn has hit that puffy stage and I can feel my mower surfing for the past couple cuts despite how visually perfect it looks. I'm also due for a sanding project so I'm seeing some uneven spots in my side yard.

i typically use a Jacobsen GK26A to cut around .6 which is at/near it's lower limit. However, I just received word today that my Toro Flex 21 with groomer is ready to pick up from the golf course mechanic who has been working on it. I plan on using the Toro to cut my front down to .5 in a pseudo mid season taming session following by a cross verticut and then another cleanup mow.

I'll definitely be practicing what I preach. After verticutting, you'll be extremely pleased the reduced ground friction and blade friction you encounter for a while. Then when it returns, you'll begin to know when it's time again.

I don't expect a huge visual impact, but the more cultural best practices you take part in throughout the year(s)pay benefits down the road.


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

southernguy311 said:


> Fwiw
> 
> 9 inches of rain in June at my house
> 21 days of rain - insane
> ...


What are you using to verticut? Overseeder/Slit seeder? Detatcher with solid blades? I have a feeling I'll be buying/renting one. If actual verticutters weren't 3-5x as much as I paid for my toro, I'd buy one lol


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## southernguy311 (Mar 17, 2017)




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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Where do I find one of those &#128077;


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## southernguy311 (Mar 17, 2017)

I bought mine at Weeks Auction. I couldn't locate a fixed blade anywhere else close.


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Ordered an Accu-gage &#128540;


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Well vacation was good. I left after first pic and this is today when I get home (7 days).





Now it's time to give it a shave at 0.625" and apply some penterra.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


>


Looks good! Keep us posted!


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Update a few hours later. I used the accu-gage to adjust to 0.625". It was kind of a pain in the rear because I couldn't hardly get it to read the same thing twice in a row.

Finally got it to 0.625" on both sides. Almost didn't put grass catcher on but decided I better. Good thing because it grew ALOT in that week. I wanted it to grow and green up but not get ankle high :lol:

Double cut (because of unevenness) and emptied the grass catcher like 12 times. Overall I think it looks ok. Still scalped some places. Some of its obviously from unevenness but some I think it grew too much during my vacation and got scalped again.

Not sure if I should just wait and mow again at 0.625" or raise to 0.750".


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

12 bucket empties is a lot. I might dump mine 2-3 times on a normal cut for 6.5k ft2... which doesn't fill up a 33 gallon trash bag.

It's hard to tell without seeing it in person, but the turf looks very thick and puffy - and taller than 5/8". I think the mower may be floating, and that's what is giving you those nasty ridges - basically because it doesn't have a solid reference to the ground. I could be wrong, but I'm going to agree again with what SG311 said on page one:



southernguy311 said:


> 99% certain that your first cut was basically surfing on top of the puffy grass. This happens to everyone at some point or another. My suggestion would be to anyone who can:
> 
> Scalp, verticut, scalp again


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

I'll try to get a closer pic tomorrow. It's pretty dang short. I MIGHT be able to convince the wife to let me level this summer but I have NO idea if I can get a true verticutter. I'm going to call the rental place and see if the overseeder has fixed blades.

Ps - I might be exaggerating on the empties. It's 2.5k sqft and I emptied 5 maybe 6 times.

I'm just so torn on whether to try to get a verticutter and do the scalp/verticut/scalp or just raise to 0.750" and go from there.


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Also, verticutting scares me worse than mowing now. Blades going down into grass can result in lots of damage to sprinkler heads &#128514;


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> Also, verticutting scares me worse than mowing now. Blades going down into grass can result in lots of damage to sprinkler heads 😂


Flag'em. I'm doing mine this weekend. I'll have pics.


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Ware said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> > Also, verticutting scares me worse than mowing now. Blades going down into grass can result in lots of damage to sprinkler heads 😂
> ...


I'm probably being very dumb but what does verticutting have to do with puffiness of turf and getting the 300lb mower to ride on soil?


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## Iriasj2009 (Feb 15, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> Also, verticutting scares me worse than mowing now. Blades going down into grass can result in lots of damage to sprinkler heads 😂


I bet you could get away with leveling with 2 yards of sand. It will help with the scalping that you have. You could do this in less than 3 hours and seeing how healthy your turf looks, it would fill in in less than 10 days.


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## Iriasj2009 (Feb 15, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> > ahartzell said:
> ...


Not dumb, over time you will be understanding more and more why we do things. To try to explain this, verticutting will thin out the canopy and allow you to mow at a true or truer HOC. Meaning "no floating". When mowing below 1", this puffiness becomes an issue because it tends to lead to scalping easily. Over time, Bermuda can create a thick mat layer which we want to eliminate or reduce with a spring detach/scalp and/or mid season detach/scalp. Detach and verticut are interchangeable but don't necessarily mean the same thing, that's another discussion.

Your lawn is looking great and I think for now you just need to start leveling with some sand. This way you wouldn't have to raise your HOC.

Watch these sod solution videos as they can give you a better picture of what I was trying to say.


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

I've watched that video (and others about celebration bermuda) - it always amazed me how much they seemed to "abuse" the turf with verticutting, aerating, top dressing, etc almost weekly yet it still looks immaculate come game day.

It looks as though this year I MIGHT be able to do some sand leveling. I've got a friend of mine who is on grounds crew at AAA baseball field looking for a verticutter for me. Not sure if I'll get a verticut in and I'll try to sand level. In the end, I may end up just raising my HOC(I know...the cardinal sin) for this season and doing a verticut and level first thing next spring.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> ...I may end up just raising my HOC(I know...the cardinal sin) for this season...


Nah, no sense fighting it. Mow it where it looks good. :thumbup:


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Ware said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> > ...I may end up just raising my HOC(I know...the cardinal sin) for this season...
> ...


Well tomorrow will be a cut at 0.750" or 0.875" - it's probably not too far off from my desired HOC anyway. I like the outfield/fairway height as opposed to the greens HOC (0.375 or less). Even when I DO sand level I will probably maintain at or near 0.500".


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## Iriasj2009 (Feb 15, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> > ahartzell said:
> ...


Like ware said, do whatever you have to do to keep it looking good. I think anything below 1" looks great, although I have seen some on here post pics of there Bermuda cut higher and still look great. It's just preference and not necessarily a cardinal sin :thumbup:


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Going to try to give it a cut at higher HOC today and see if I can survive the season at the noobie HOC level 

But I still can't seem to walk in a straight line :lol:


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## dfw_pilot (Jan 28, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> But I still can't seem to walk in a straight line :lol:


You're supposed to drink the 12-pack _after_ mowing.


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

dfw_pilot said:


> ahartzell said:
> 
> 
> > But I still can't seem to walk in a straight line :lol:
> ...


lol I think the yard is just so lumpy and I'm so focused on if the mower is cutting, scalping, running over children, etc that I'm not focusing on walking straight.

I raised it to *gasp* 0.875" to end all scalping until I can sand. Gave it a snip and it barely cut anything so I think in a few days it'll be green and 0.875" will result in clean smooth APPEARING lawn with no scalping.


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## southernguy311 (Mar 17, 2017)

As said before could happen to anyone because it certainly happens to me occasionally even with lean management. This is a good example of where surfing on puffy turf in an area that isn't perfectly level had scalping follow.

Full disclosure from photos. The damage on the right was disease and the left was mole damage with that big line in the middle with yellowing from scalping. I did verticut this spot Tuesday after that photo and plan on light going after it again in a couple weeks.


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## ahartzell (May 18, 2017)

Well I couldn't stand it...as you can see from the other thread, I scalped back to 0.500" and sanded away! Hoping it helps some at least


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## southernguy311 (Mar 17, 2017)

ahartzell said:


> Well I couldn't stand it...as you can see from the other thread, I scalped back to 0.500" and sanded away! Hoping it helps some at least


You'll see amazing returns from sanding. That's the one thing I keep procrastinating about. I'm in the middle of season 3 of my turf and I've still not sanded. Planned to several times, but "things" just keep coming up or he timing isn't right.


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