# Bermuda sod cries in the night



## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Our new sod is struggling. We laid Bermuda sod in mid-April here in central Texas. I've been fighting off brown spots the whole time. The landscapers did not prepare the ground well. They laid loam down, with about 1/4 inch of compost (yes, that's all), and put sod over top. No fertilizer or anything else before placing the sod. I watered everyday for a while, it was probably not getting enough because i was only putting down about 0.25" of water at a time.

The complexion of the grass is constantly changing. I had one spot that was particularly brown and dead right off the bat, and it has come in nicely. However, the brown is basically all over the lawn now.

I live in Austin, so it's hot. Very hot, and drought.

I water once per week, 1 hour at a time, the lawn takes about 1".
I've fertilized with a high high nitrogen mix, every month.
I let the grass grow to about 3.5" and cut it back to 2.5" often. I am afraid to cut it shorter, because the grass only has green at the top.

Here are pictures from above.

healthy patch:



unhealthy patch:



above:



this patch gets 6 hours of sun every day.



Any suggestions appreciated.


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## Trippel24 (Jul 9, 2018)

Aerate fertilize and h2o


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

Hi Im new hear but this is what I have learned about cutting:
- Pick a height of cut (HOC) that you will maintain the grass at
- So if you want to maintain at 2 1/2" cut it down to 2" then after that cut at 2 1/2"
- Cut at least once a week but twice is better and there are some who cut every 2-3 days

From what I see and if Im getting what you want which is for the grass to thicken (my understanding) you have to cut it shorter to train it to grow ou vs up. So for me I cut down to 1 1/2" andI maintain at 2". I may try to go lower and maintain at 1 1/2" next year.

Disclaimer: again Im new hear and learning. Im not giving advice just pointing out what I have learned. The real lawn gurus will assist so best wishes with you lawn/investment!


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

I forgot to mention that getting a soil test can be a good thing to at least understand what fertilizer may be best. These folks will even help to interpret the results. If you decide to do a soil test then the spring is a really good time before you put down anything...

Cheers


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## Bermuda_Newbie (Jun 15, 2018)

You might need to reset your HOC. Bermuda gets long and then is only green at the tips. If you cut it lower, it will promote horizontal growth and will not have the long brown part under the green.

Is there a way to thin out whatever is blocking the light over the grass? I have an area that gets some sun but it's leggier than the rest of my grass because it doesn't get as much sun as the rest.

Have you done a screwdriver test on the part of the lawn that's dying? Is your soil impacted?

Have you done a water test and make sure that areas are getting equal amount of water?

One thing you can do that I've done is take the dead section and for a week, put some extra water on it and see if it makes a difference. Just hand water it for two additional days a week. If it starts to recover, this will tell you it's a watering issue. Another thing you could do is set out tuna cans or water gauges and make sure that it's getting the water you think it is.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Appreciate the suggestions. The soil is definitely impacted @Bermuda_Newbie. There was large scale excavation in this area right before laying sod. What can I do about that now? Aerate? I read not to aerate this late in season because allows weeds to grow in. is there a combo of aeration and preemergent you recommend in 90 degree plus?

I will try extra water in a particular area the next couple weeks as well. Good idea. Why didn't I think of that?!


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

@ctrav what kind of lawn mower do you recommend. I have a rotary and I don't trust the blade to go so short. Also is it too hot in texas to start cutting to a lower height given the stress on the grass? Should I wait til it cools into the high 80s?


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## Bermuda_Newbie (Jun 15, 2018)

@Texas_Bermuda aeration and preemergent is beyond my level. I'm sure someone with more experience and in your area can better direct you. If you've been told not to do it this late then maybe that's right. My growing season is until November so I don't worry about it but if it's about to go dormant then maybe not. Be careful of using preemergent if you still are trying to get the bermuda to fill in. There's been a few people who posted about that and it made it difficult for the runners to tack down or something like that. Good luck!


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## Tellycoleman (May 10, 2017)

Ok so here is the deal.
Ima keep this short and sweet

1) How much water do your sprinklers put out in an hour? If you dont know set out tuna scans water for 15 min -measure how much water with a ruler falls in 15 min then multiply by 4. Tell me how much water you apply in 1 hour. 
You say you water about 1 inch a week but your in hot hot as hell texas. 1 inch of water once a week is not going to cut it.
First of all if I give you one gallon of water to drink in 1 week do you want to drink it all at once and then wait till next week to get another gallon. 
We often encourage deep and infuequent waterings but you may be to infuequent. 
I live in Nashville. Its Hot but not the Hell hot of Texas. I water about 1.5 inches split into 2 applications during the week. I water .75 inch for example on Monday and .75 inch on friday or Saturday. Then skip 3-4 days and start again.
If your ground is like typical Texas dirt then most of your water will just roll off the clay surface and not absorb in the soil.
If i water 20 min all at once in one zone then I will have run off. Even though yes i put down 1 inch of water most of it washed away. This is the benefit of smart water controllers like the Rachio. It waters for 8 min then does a 30 min saturation soak while it waters another section. Then it comes back and waters another 8-10 min. If you dont have a smart comtroller you need to try to do this manuelly
2)You say you fertilize with a High High nitrogen mix
Specifics please 
what are the numbers on the fertilizer bag- How much do you put down once a month- What type of fertilizer do you use You need to answer these questions or be honest and say I Dont Know.
3) You say you have been fighting brown spot. What have you used to fight it? Have you applied any treatments and what have you put on
4) Have you checked for sod worms? dig up a section and look for worms. or pour soapy water in mutliple sections and wait 5-10 min to see what climbs up out of the ground.
5) 6 hours of sun is the minimum and your grass will not be happy close to the wall just understand that.
6) Most hybrid bermuda grass does best below 3.5 inches. It is hard to get the thick grass you want when its that tall. You have to cut your grass more. I would cut it down to 1.5 inches. It will look brown for about 10 days. Then keep it cut around 2 inches. you will see your grass will look better shorter than 3-4 inches. Bermuda is like a tree, no matter how low you cut it it will have brown stems and a green top. If you go more than 5-6 days in between cuts then the brown stem will grow taller and so wil the green leaf. So everytime you cut it it will be brown this means your not cutting enouph.

Laying down loamy soil before sod is layed is not an issue however compost is going to cause you a heck of a bumpy lawn when it starts to decompose completly. There is nothing to prevent that you will have to topdress with sand to help level your lawn


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## Tellycoleman (May 10, 2017)

It is not to late to aerate in texas and it is not to late to scalp ( which is cut you grass low to reset the height). But you need to worry about other things first like your water and fertilizer and fungus and possible worms 1st.


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> @ctrav what kind of lawn mower do you recommend. I have a rotary and I don't trust the blade to go so short. Also is it too hot in texas to start cutting to a lower height given the stress on the grass? Should I wait til it cools into the high 80s?


I have a Toro self-propelled and a Toro ZTR both are rotary. Yo can easily cut down to 1" with these. Dont be afraid to cut it low! Its grass and I hear that Bermuda is nothing more than a weed and almost impossible to kill 

I think you still have plenty of time to cut lower, aerate and put down pre-emerg. The first two things need to be done sooner rather than later. We are looking at a chance of rain Monday and Tuesday so if that happens and its a good rain I will aerate this week.

Lots of good advice already given just take your time...


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Tellycoleman said:


> Ok so here is the deal.
> Ima keep this short and sweet
> 
> 1) How much water do your sprinklers put out in an hour? If you dont know set out tuna scans water for 15 min -measure how much water with a ruler falls in 15 min then multiply by 4. Tell me how much water you apply in 1 hour.
> ...


Thanks @Tellycoleman

Water - I have measured the water and one hour is 1 inch. The yard was graded to have minimal slope and I don't see runoff from this area. If I lay down enough water to soak 6", and then another day of the week lay down just enough for 3" soak, is that second soak counter productive to developing deep roots? During drought I can see a second watering being important but another full 6" soak?

Soil -ill do a soil test. The NPK contents were very low with a DIY test kit. Will get it done in a mail in kit.

Fertilizing - I stopped fertilizing last month because I read somewhere putting down too much P in the heat can be bad for the bermuda. I thought maybe that was the chief cause of the brown spots. I don't know the fertilizer I had been using, a 3:2:1 I recall, 15:10:5. Then in the last month I switched to 20:0:0 and then like I said I stopped.

Leveling - the yard was graded to an appropriate slope of like 2%. Do I need to level with sand, and if so when, given the grass is not yet spreading thick.

Thanks all for the suggestions! !


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

ctrav said:


> Texas_Bermuda said:
> 
> 
> > @ctrav what kind of lawn mower do you recommend. I have a rotary and I don't trust the blade to go so short. Also is it too hot in texas to start cutting to a lower height given the stress on the grass? Should I wait til it cools into the high 80s?
> ...


Okay everyone is telling me to cut it shorter. I'll do it. Its 95+ in austin today, I'll go to 1" and then when it gets to 2" cut it back to 1.5" and repeat that. That a good plan?

I'll also change water to 45 minutes twice a day, roughly 0.75" each. Then when the temp comes down to what, 80, switch back to just once a day? When do I stop watering in central texas for the winter?

Should i hold off on aerating this year since i cut out down preemergent before the grass fills out? Do it in the spring?

Thanks!


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## TN Hawkeye (May 7, 2018)

I would combine all the suggestions you are getting:
1. Cut it down to 1.5". Apply a high nitrogen fertilizer late that evening. Go with 1lb of Nitrogen per 1000 square feet. 
2. Water it in early the next day. 
3. Mow it at 2" before you think it needs it. This will help it spread laterally and thicken up.
4. See how it looks after a couple weeks. If it looks like it needs some more nitrogen give it .25lbs after a mow and water it in the next morning.

Bermuda loves nitrogen and water. Give it some food and by late this month I think you will be pleased with the results. After the spring scalp you can look at keeping it at a shorter cut. You still have a good 2 months of growth in Texas. Work on getting it to thicken up.


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

I agree with TN Hawkeye...baby steps

Is this for the front, back or both yards? Do you have inground irrigation?


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

ctrav said:


> I agree with TN Hawkeye...baby steps
> 
> Is this for the front, back or both yards? Do you have inground irrigation?


This is the back, have in ground irrigation. No other grass, water is too expensive in the Peoples Republic of Austin. Xeriscape otherwise.

Thanks everyone. Only question is how often to water and to what depth each time.


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## Tellycoleman (May 10, 2017)

@Texas_Bermuda 
Yeah my idea was more like applying 45 min each time you water for a total of 1.5 a week . And as always water less or more depending on mother nature. I understand establishing deep roots but you have to establish a healthy turf 1st. I really would focus on healthy turf. You have irrigation after all use it. Dont let your drive for deep roots hurt you in the long run. When you walk on your grass does the footprint you leave bounce back quickly? Are your grass blades folding in half? If so you need to water more
Do you know how much fertilizer you put down? You should shoot for 1 pound a month. This to i would devide up. Applying 1 pound a month at one time is OK. But all of the fertilizer can NOT be used by the plant all at once.
Its like you sitting down for a huge thanksgiving meal. You can only eat so much. The rest is waisted
So to when applying 1 pound of fertilizer at once. Alot is waisted do to volitization. Better to apply 0.5 pounds of fertilizer every 2 weeks. Durring the summer months with Bermuda I also switch to a high nitrogen only fertilizer like amonium sulfate. or your 20-0-0 is great

Leveling the lawn does not mean you destroy the apprpriate slop of the lawn. It means that everything is butter smooth at a 2% grade. 
Its the difference between a cobblestone road and a nice smooth driveway. Both are the same grade one is alot smoother. In about 1 year the compost will decay and leave alot of ridges and valleys and pockets that will make mowing a bumpy adventure. But You are absolutly right dont worry about that until it happens or until yo start scalping your lawn alot when you cut. ( next year) and yes i would use sand or if avaiable a 80% sand to soil mix. NO Compost
However
If you are still having brown spots you need to apply fungicide. 
And this needs to be done BEFORE putting on any more fertilizer. Because you will be feeding the fungus and it could have explosive growth.
So if you still have this then that needs to be the number 1 issue on your list


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## Rockinar (Jul 21, 2017)

Just my opinion....keep it simple. Bermuda is a weed and it takes lots of effort to kill and little effort to make it thrive. It just needs sun, water and fert. You don't have to go crazy. I'm in Houston, have Bermuda, and dealing with the same heat.

I don't measure water amounts, I don't water on specific days or do a schedule. I have no clue whatsoever how much water I put on the lawn. I don't even keep my irrigation system turned on. I don't do "tuna can test" I do "Eyeball test". When I step outside and look at the lawn and notice it looks like it needs water, it needs water. I just dump a bunch on it then. I dont sit around and watch the clock and say "OK, it's been 1 hour so it has 1 inch now". I will turn it on and leave the house, to do errands or whatever. I put down "lots" of water. Whatever that amount is. I might do that 3 times a week or once a week. Just depends on how the grass looks.

I don't measure fertilizer, I just do "about" measurements. I don't use any specific type or hunt down specific types at commercial landscape centers. I use Sta-Green from Lowes for no reason other than the prill size are large and easy to see as opposed to Scotts, and it seems to water in good. I don't even have a push spreader. I use a crappy $10 Scotts hand spreader. Some months I might use starter fertilizer, some months just high nitrogen. It just depends on what I feel like at that very moment when I'm starring at the bags. That's how scientific I get with it.

I only use pre emergent in the spring. I take the winter months off and let it all go. I may Pre-em this year for winter. Still undecided.

My point is don't over think it. Keep it simple and address one issue at a time. It's not complicated, it's bermuda. I realized when I quit worrying about what a soil test told me and instead do what the lawn is telling me, it works better. I have not done a soil test in probably 2 years now. It might be needed more for northern lawns. I'm not convinced they tell you much about southern lawns, especially bermuda. Sun, water, fert. If you have those three it will grown like crazy. If it's not, add more.

Here a pic a took of my Nutsage invasion in my Bermuda like 2 weeks ago. If you ignore the nutsage and look at the lawn it looks great and I do almost nothing to it. It does not take endless hours of reading on the Google and chemicals your can't pronounce. Keep it simple and ignore 90% of what The Lawn Care Nut on Youtube says and you will be good.


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## Delmarva Keith (May 12, 2018)

I see shade in the pictures. It might be crying in the daytime too.


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## Gregau33 (Apr 15, 2018)

Delmarva Keith said:


> I see shade in the pictures. It might be crying in the daytime too.


LOL...

To OP, there have been great suggestions made above, but the problem you will always be facing is the amount of daylight you receive (or lack thereof). Six hours of sunlight is not going to cut it with Bermuda. I really can't believe that landscapers would even suggest Bermuda while they gave you a quote and prepped the land for sod.

Is it possible to take down some trees? @Tellycoleman will be happy to help you take those overgrown weeds out


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## Flynt2799 (Oct 17, 2017)

@Texas_Bermuda Cut it downnnnn and start over. I am also located in Austin and the heat we've had lately is definitely stressing lawns like crazy, your HOC needs a reset. The advice you have received so far is great and will get your lawn looking great. Some people in central Texas will tell you that you have to water a ton to have a green lawn but thats not true. I maintain a 1.5"/week watering schedule as well as a balanced fertilizer regiment built for my lawn and have had great results. It won't come easy, but with a little sweat equity you can have the best lawn in your neighborhood.

Feel free to take a look at my journal, my lawn looked just like yours when I started: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2662

Also it is not to late to aerate, level with sand or even scalp. My neighbor just scalped his laggy Bermuda down from 4", aerated and leveled with sand two weeks ago and it is filling in great!


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

I have a sun problem. I highlighted the 6 hour spot because all that I'm doing for the entire yard is not even working for the 6 hour sun area. However I also have areas getting less than 3 hours. I have been studying the trees surrounding my property and i can take down a few major branches from my neighbors trees to get the whole yard to 6 hours. I hadn't thought about doing that but I will now that I see how important sun is.

I'll try to figure that out, cut back the branches, take the HOC to 1.5, put down 1lb N per 1k soft, water in the am, add another 30 minute water day per week, and follow back here in a couple weeks. Fingers crossed!

Thanks all


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Flynt2799 said:


> @Texas_Bermuda Cut it downnnnn and start over. I am also located in Austin and the heat we've had lately is definitely stressing lawns like crazy, your HOC needs a reset. The advice you have received so far is great and will get your lawn looking great. Some people in central Texas will tell you that you have to water a ton to have a green lawn but thats not true. I maintain a 1.5"/week watering schedule as well as a balanced fertilizer regiment built for my lawn and have had great results. It won't come easy, but with a little sweat equity you can have the best lawn in your neighborhood.
> 
> Feel free to take a look at my journal, my lawn looked just like yours when I started: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=2662
> 
> Also it is not to late to aerate, level with sand or even scalp. My neighbor just scalped his laggy Bermuda down from 4", aerated and leveled with sand two weeks ago and it is filling in great!


@flynt2799 this is an impressive year for your lawn. I am trying to get mine right. Making a gameplan. Hopefully next spring I'll be at your level. Pun not intended.


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## Flynt2799 (Oct 17, 2017)

stick around here long enough and you will get all the info you need.


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## Delmarva Keith (May 12, 2018)

Shade is to bermuda what sunlight is to a vampire. Just about the only thing that will kill it.


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Update. I cut the lawn to 1.5". It looks terrible, thin growth. I also cut off a sprinkler head. When I dug it out to replace, I discovered a grub worm. I only saw one, in the 1x1' area I opened. Something to worry about? Come to think of it there is a corner in the yard, where two stone walls intersect, that I've previously referred to as a rolly poly circus because there are so many. Bad symptom?


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> I have a sun problem. I highlighted the 6 hour spot because all that I'm doing for the entire yard is not even working for the 6 hour sun area. However I also have areas getting less than 3 hours. I have been studying the trees surrounding my property and i can take down a few major branches from my neighbors trees to get the whole yard to 6 hours.


I know it isn't what you want to hear, but switching to St Augustine may be your only hope for a great lawn with that little sunlight. Zoysia can take 6 hours, but 3 -- that's asking a lot, even for St Augustine.


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## Aarsudstrike (Jun 15, 2018)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> Update. I cut the lawn to 1.5". It looks terrible, thin growth. I also cut off a sprinkler head. When I dug it out to replace, I discovered a grub worm. I only saw one, in the 1x1' area I opened. Something to worry about? Come to think of it there is a corner in the yard, where two stone walls intersect, that I've previously referred to as a rolly poly circus because there are so many. Bad symptom?


It won't hurt to treat for pests. I have found that the Chemical that you want is imidacloprid. This product has it and is usually in good supply at Lowe's: https://m.lowes.com/pd/BAYER-ADVANCED-Complete-20-lb-Insect-Killer/3005442


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## Ahab1997 (Jun 30, 2018)

At least you won't have to worry about watering this week. Have you seen the weather forecast? Rain predicted nearly every day for the next 10 days!


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

I cut to 1.5" as prescribed, 5 days ago. I fertilized immediately after, laid down 1# of N per 1k sft. It rained all week. I cut to 1.5" again today. Here is the result.



No green yet. That to be expected? I should have also taken a shot before I cut, there were faint signs of green.

I also checked for grubs, in two areas, and found none. I did however find the sod comes up effortlessly in the corner area, where the grass will not grow. Again, no bugs underneath, but this looks dead. What is it and will it spread? Look ma, no roots!


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

Texas_Bermuda said:


> I cut to 1.5" as prescribed, 5 days ago. I fertilized immediately after, laid down 1# of N per 1k sft. It rained all week. I cut to 1.5" again today. Here is the result.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thats really odd (at least to me). Seems like your lawn would green right up???


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## TN Hawkeye (May 7, 2018)

Move yourHOC up to 2". Constantly mowing at the height you scalped to will only cut the green growth. Take it up a notch and let the green fill in.


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

TN Hawkeye said:


> Move yourHOC up to 2". Constantly mowing at the height you scalped to will only cut the green growth. Take it up a notch and let the green fill in.


^ this... :thumbup:


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

I made this mistake all summer long so I had yellow/green grass. I found this site and someone said to scalp below desired height, raise mower to the height you want and cut consistently at least twice a week and deep watering once a week. Results....a green lawn!

Now


Before


Granted we have steady rain the past few days.


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## unspokenzero (Aug 27, 2018)

I've got a new bremuda lawn that was laid back in June this year. It started getting leggy and wasn't that beautiful green it was after my first few weeks so I scalped it. Freaked me out! Then I remembered a video that one of the YouTubers put up talking about how bremuda grows like a tree. The longer it get the thicker the "stalk" of the plant will get and turn brown, the plant no longer focuses on outward lateral growth but verticle. This is where the "thinning" comes it. So I scalped at different heights according to my mower. The lowest setting took almost 3 weeks to recover. Ill post photos of my "zones" later today.


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## Bermuda_Newbie (Jun 15, 2018)

Everyone is talking about the lack of green and how scalping fixes that. That's great and true. However, what about the lack of rooting? I've been following this thread to see if anyone would comment on that. Why is it not rooting? Is that the section that's getting limited sunlight?


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

Bermuda_Newbie said:


> Everyone is talking about the lack of green and how scalping fixes that. That's great and true. However, what about the lack of rooting? I've been following this thread to see if anyone would comment on that. Why is it not rooting? Is that the section that's getting limited sunlight?


Good question...your ground under the sod must be rock hard (so is mine) and maybe thats part of the issue. How do you loosen the ground underneath?? Baby shampoo, dishwashing liquid, Air-8 liquid aeration???


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Bermuda_Newbie said:


> Everyone is talking about the lack of green and how scalping fixes that. That's great and true. However, what about the lack of rooting? I've been following this thread to see if anyone would comment on that. Why is it not rooting? Is that the section that's getting limited sunlight?


Yes that section where I pulled up in my last pictures, and showed VERY few remaining roots, does not get much light. ALso, as I mentioned earlier in the thread ,that area also has seen many many roly polies (some people call them doodle bugs, according to my wife who is from houston). I'm going to mulch that area because of the sunlight shortage.

my question was whatever happened there, and caused the roots to rot, is it potentially contagious to the rest of the yard? as i mentioned, i dont see grubs generally(although i did find one when i repaired the sprinkler head), but there were the roly polies in the corner without roots(simptomatic of something?).


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

ctrav said:


> Bermuda_Newbie said:
> 
> 
> > Everyone is talking about the lack of green and how scalping fixes that. That's great and true. However, what about the lack of rooting? I've been following this thread to see if anyone would comment on that. Why is it not rooting? Is that the section that's getting limited sunlight?
> ...


Heres the latest. It's been a few weeks. I scalped it to 1.5, we just got 10 days of rain. I cut it to 2.0 last night and voila. Still brown. The grass is still not thickening.





I pulled another section up thinking there must be something eating it. No grubs. Heres a pic of the soil and you can see the roots. They don't look healthy to me, tho im clearly not an expert.



The soil is loam that the landscaper dropped after doing the dig out. It looks like pretty crappy soil. It's definitely compacted by yard equipment. @ctrav do you have experience loosening soil? Also is there a soil test anyone recommends. Thanks


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## Ahab1997 (Jun 30, 2018)

I'd use the A&M soil testing lab. Definitely the most local: http://soiltesting.tamu.edu/

Your lawn looks like a portion of mine. Thin and sad. I think we're in the same boat, where the sod was laid on top of backfilled crap. I have yet to have a breakthrough, so I don't have a solution for you, yet.

Best advice is to keep feeding it, and wait for the root cycling effect to start. Essentially you (and myself as well) are going to have to build the soil ourselves. 1 lb of N per 1000 is just a starting point. I've heard people pushing harder than that, if they're careful about irrigation.

Have you considered adding something like humic/fulvic acid to your program?


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## Flynt2799 (Oct 17, 2017)

I'm no expert by any means, and I'm still learning everyday myself, so take what I say with a grain of salt.

We definitely have some crazy soil here in Austin, but It can be turned around. If I were in your boat I would look into some of the green county N-EXT products, aeration and soil optimization.

1) HEAVY aeration. As many passes as you can get, this will help break up the compaction. Also will hopefully entice the roots to lock down and start working in. I would also collect your cores and get rid of them.

2) N-EXT soil optimization pack. I have not used these products personally but after seeing others results I plan to starting next season. Start your first application immediately following the aeration.

*3*) This is where I might try something different. Since it is fairly late in the season to put sand down for leveling, why not try a compost or soil mixture to try and help amend the soil. Whittlesey here in town has a Dillo mix as well as a command compost. If you used one or both of these to fill in the aeration holes this might be able to assist with your soil issues. I wouldn't go to heavy at all, just enough to get some good soil down into your lawn.
***when I'm talking about using the dirt mixture to fill in holes I am not intending this to help with any leveling issues you might have. You may seem some initial leveling, but should expect to see that fade as the soil settles. This is more geared towards your current soil concerns.

4) I would probably steal away from any heavy N applications this late in the game as well. At this point I am personally just giving my lawn the essentials and not trying to push it super hard. Keep in mind your lawn is already in a stressed state, don't want to ask it to do too much at one time.

Personally I would not expect to have the best looking lawn this season. Expect to tear it up and break it down, with the understanding that you are setting yourself up for future success. It is definitely a process but trust me when I say, all of the hard work and weird looks from the neighbors will quickly be forgotten and replaced with jaw dropping green grass and compliments on the daily.


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

@Texas_Bermuda I would aerate the lawn next spring to help with the compaction. Get a soil test around Feb/Mar timeframe. Spend the time this winter looking around on TLF and asking questions about some of the products mentioned. I have never personally used them yet and relying on my soil test to lead me in the right direction. I have a plan for next year for sure! As far as soil test companies I used Texas A&M my first time then I used Waypoint Analytical. I like Waypoint better plus once you get set up with them you can use there iPhone app which is cool. I got the SW1 soil test which is good for our area and it was $30.

https://www.waypointanalytical.com/


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## Texas_Bermuda (Sep 1, 2018)

Thanks for the input @Ahab1997 , @ctrav and @Flynt2799 .

I am thinking to try humic acid or this liquid aeration product by N-Ext, although I dont know the difference yet. Looks like I can begin this fall. To those of you in Texas, is it too late to verticut and aerate? I'd like to get the grass stimulated and maybe some potassium down before winter, i've read it's projected to be COLD and WET in central texas and the grass does not look up for the challenge as of now.

Also i'd like to apply pre-emergent in the spring, but i'm worried about doing so if i havent gotten the grass growing this fall. the grass is already losing to weeds in some spots, and the spring might be full of weed growth if not.

in summary, my plan:
this weekend - aerate and verticut. put down the humic acid/air-8.
next weekend - nitrogen
october - put down the potassium
spring - soil test, pre-emergent

what am i doing stupid, some or all of this?


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