# Soil Test in Boston



## greenpinky (Sep 15, 2020)

Hi all, just got a soil test here in Mass (results attached). I spoke briefly with the rep who told me to spread out 60lbs of Dolomite Lime over 2 years (applying 15lbs in Spring and Fall each year). He wasn't specific about the Potash, other than getting something with a high % of K, and to apply Nitro at 1lb/1k.

I'm planning on aerating and overseeding this Fall, so was hoping for suggestions on what to amend by then. For example, I read that K could lead to snow mold, so was thinking to dose the lawn lightly now and then apply it heavy come Spring. Same with the Nitro, because they say not use it in the Summer, although I will definitely need some after overseeding to help the new grass.

Not sure. There's a lot of info online and so many fertilizers with different ratios. Of course I'm tempted just to apply everything at once--lime, gypsum, chicken feed, kelp, and compost to raise the low numbers/nutrients-but I'm sure that'd be a noob mistake. So all feedback and advice is welcomed and appreciated!


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Here are the soil remediation guidelines here:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=15165
You can apply the lime in two applications,, up to 50 lb per 1000 sq ft. If you do an application now, the lime will have some time to start working before you overseed. The remaining application can be late fall before the ground freezes.

If you find a potassium only fertilizer, like sulfate of potassium, you can apply it independently of nitrogen. But, as the rep suggested, you can also get a fertilizer that has a good amount of potassium along with nitrogen. Why don't you look around at the places you buy lawn supplies and see what's available. A potassium application in late summer/early fall shouldn't be a snow mold problem; that was linked to applications in later fall, wasn't it? Doing most of the potassium next spring is fine. Maybe aim for 0.5-1 lb this fall, 1.5-2 lb next spring.

Here's more reading material from U of Massachusetts:
https://ag.umass.edu/sites/ag.umass.edu/files/pdf-doc-ppt/full_nutrient_bmp_2013_solo.pdf
I looked up when they suggested fertilizer (p. 18) and was surprised that fall wasn't emphasized as much as it is around here. They left October off altogether, which in my opinion is the second best time, after September. Are you sure you have to overseed? KBG is rarely overseeded because it spreads and seeds are slow to germinate. It presents a dilemma for you because the existing grass needs the nitrogen, especially in early fall. But fertilizing at the time of overseeding will make the existing grass grow (and need cutting) and shade out the seedlings.


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## greenpinky (Sep 15, 2020)

Thanks Virginiagal! The UMass doc is great - and very strange they omitted Fall, especially since that's one of our big growing seasons. I was trying to read up a bit more before making some decisions: I ordered half of the necessary lime (30 lbs/1k) and might apply the rest in Fall or wait for Spring. I also ordered some Nitro and Potash (7-0-20), figuring to go light and help the soil before seeding, and bought straight K (0-0-60) to apply 2lbs/1k in the Spring. I was thinking to fill in the aeration holes with organic compost to add nutrients, and also bought Ironite for a touch of N and some iron (which I'm sure is deficient).

I actually contacted a Turf Manager who maintains our local sports fields, and he said he'll come by next week to look at my lawn and give me some advice. As for overseeding, my lawn is very thin in places with bare spots (and more to come once the Poa/sedge dies). Also, not sure that my lawn is KBG. I've spot-seeded so many times with box store sun/shade, quick-grow, quick-patch, and New England mixes, my lawn and I are equally confused! Hopefully the Turf guy will know better. Anyway, I'll keep you updated as I go along. Thanks!


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Oh, if you're aerating, that's a great time to add lime, so it gets lower into the soil rather than just sitting on top. Your plan to split it into two 30 lb applications is good.

Looks like you have a fair amount of leaves in the fall. Do you mulch mow and leave them on the lawn? That's a good way to get organic matter. Easier than spreading compost. The shredded leaves decompose and make their own compost right on the lawn. Mow them every few days while they're falling. You will want to seed early enough so the grass is up and growing by the time leaves start falling.

Good to have the turf guy give advice. You can talk with him about weed killing before overseeding (a lot of selective herbicides require a waiting period before seeding), what kind of grass you have and what to plant, when to do it, whether compost is a good idea or not (lots of work, you already have a lot of phosphorus which compost generally is high in but it may be useful as a top dressing to retain moisture on top of the seed), how well your irrigation system works (even if it's just sprinklers). And for that matter, whether you even need to overseed at all.

Did you read the overseeding guide here?
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=6250


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Another thought: you must have young children, children who enjoy playing in the yard. Do you really want to take it out of commission for weeks while you do all this overseeding stuff and wait for the seed to be strong enough seedlings? Children are young only once and it goes quickly. You could live with what you have and not worry if spots are scuffed up and do your nicer lawn in a few years. You could still do fertilizing and lime and weed killing and preemergent to give the present grass a boost.


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