# Slit Seeder Vs. Spreader



## mmicha (Apr 20, 2018)

Hello,

I'm thinking of doing a small renovation on a part of my yard. I'd need to lay the roundup down shortly, but I read and see some use a slit seeder and some just use a broadcast spreader for laying the seed bed.

I've been following the Wimbledon tennis court renovation and they just use a walking spreader to lay the ryegrass. The area that I want to kill and reseed is triangular and so I think using a slit seeder is going to be extremely difficult. What would be best practice? Broadcast and roll to press into dirt... Cover with peat moss and water?

Thanks!


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## jessehurlburt (Oct 18, 2017)

I like to expose the soil well (i use an electric greenworks dethatcher) then broadcast, roll and cover with peat.


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## probasestealer (Apr 19, 2018)

Just rake the area thoroughly, seed, roll (if you can) and cover with peat. That should suffice. As @jessehurlburtmentioned, you want to open the soil up enough so the seed makes contact


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## mmicha (Apr 20, 2018)

Being in Chicago, what would be a good date to have seed down by? I really would like to do 100% KBG, but also thinking possible mix with some PRG...


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## CPA Nerd (May 8, 2018)

mmicha said:


> Being in Chicago, what would be a good date to have seed down by? I really would like to do 100% KBG, but also thinking possible mix with some PRG...


Hey neighbor, Wheaton resident here and I am shooting for around Labor Day weekend, but it all depends on the weather. Last year was a disaster, with record heat (high 90s) in the middle of September.


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## osuturfman (Aug 12, 2017)

Make sure KBG is at least 1/8" down into the soil. TTTF and PRG can germinate after being just gently raked into the surface.


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## mmicha (Apr 20, 2018)

CPA Nerd said:


> mmicha said:
> 
> 
> > Being in Chicago, what would be a good date to have seed down by? I really would like to do 100% KBG, but also thinking possible mix with some PRG...
> ...


Oh wow, we are probably 10-15 minutes apart. Are you doing a reno or overseed?


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## CPA Nerd (May 8, 2018)

mmicha said:


> CPA Nerd said:
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> > mmicha said:
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Overseed but also doing some bare spots by hand.


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## ken-n-nancy (Jul 25, 2017)

osuturfman said:


> Make sure KBG is at least 1/8" down into the soil. TTTF and PRG can germinate after being just gently raked into the surface.


osuturfman, I believe you and have a high trust for your advice (you've earned it!) but I've never really covered KBG before - I've just broadcast it and then went over it with a lawn roller. Would I be getting better germination if it were just barely covered with a dusting of soil?

Is that why some folks suggest using about 1/4" of peat moss to lightly cover a KBG seeding?


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## osuturfman (Aug 12, 2017)

Definitely would get better germination rates by getting it into a channel down in the soil and then covering with peat (not my favorite) or compost ( :thumbup: ). As the soil moistens, the channel will slowly close around the seed and provide near 100% soil contact. The reason this is specific and important for KBG, in particular, is seed size. KBG is a much smaller seed than PRG and TTTF and as such, needs more care to be protected by the soil that its counterparts.


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## osuturfman (Aug 12, 2017)

Here's a good illustration from Turfco that's in their marketing materials for their TriWave Seeder.



The left shows how seeds fall in or around the V-shaped channels versus the square channels cut by the Turfco TriWave. Now, this isn't meant to push one brand of slit seeder over another. Rather, to show how seeds should be down in channels and then let those square edges be rolled or cave in to then cover the seed.

If the seed is just on top of the soil, it basically has to get pushed into the soil a little bit to have the best chance at germinating. The topdressing with your amendment du jour (peat, compost, Penn Mulch, straw) helps mostly in moisture management and erosion control more than as a "soil contact" apparatus.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

@mmicha and @CPA Nerd. If you are doing a Reno of kbg, starting early is best to get it to establish. Every year is different, but it follows typical patterns. I target 15aug in Indy. If I live in the Windy City I would go sooner for kbg; as soon as this weekend. Pete1313 dropped seeds 05aug last year near rockford, IL.

Osuturfman, that makes perfect sense. Never thought that the split seeder would also help keeping the seeds in the ground in case of a rain/washout.


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## CPA Nerd (May 8, 2018)

g-man said:


> @mmicha and @CPA Nerd. If you are doing a Reno of kbg, starting early is best to get it to establish. Every year is different, but it follows typical patterns. I target 15aug in Indy. If I live in the Windy City I would go sooner for kbg; as soon as this weekend. Pete1313 dropped seeds 05aug last year near rockford, IL.
> 
> Osuturfman, that makes perfect sense. Never thought that the split seeder would also help keeping the seeds in the ground in case of a rain/washout.


Thanks. I'm actually seeding TTTF. Targeting about Labor Day.


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

I own a slit seeder. I use it to verticut only. It roughs up the soil bed very well.

If I was you I'd use a slit seeder or a thatcher power rake to prepare the seed bed. I would then use a broadcast spreader to spread the seed. I like to use a drop spreader for the edges. I prefer the seeds to not go into my beds.

Seed down no later than August 10

Do a pure KBG lawn. You can always add prg later but trying to eliminate prg later is almost impossible without a renovation.


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## mmicha (Apr 20, 2018)

g-man said:


> @mmicha and @CPA Nerd. If you are doing a Reno of kbg, starting early is best to get it to establish. Every year is different, but it follows typical patterns. I target 15aug in Indy. If I live in the Windy City I would go sooner for kbg; as soon as this weekend. Pete1313 dropped seeds 05aug last year near rockford, IL.
> 
> Osuturfman, that makes perfect sense. Never thought that the split seeder would also help keeping the seeds in the ground in case of a rain/washout.


I'm curious, do you think that an all perennial ryegrass lawn could survive in Chicago?


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## jessehurlburt (Oct 18, 2017)

mmicha said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> > @mmicha and @CPA Nerd. If you are doing a Reno of kbg, starting early is best to get it to establish. Every year is different, but it follows typical patterns. I target 15aug in Indy. If I live in the Windy City I would go sooner for kbg; as soon as this weekend. Pete1313 dropped seeds 05aug last year near rockford, IL.
> ...


I would expect significant winter kill there.


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## CPA Nerd (May 8, 2018)

wardconnor said:


> I own a slit seeder. I use it to verticut only. It roughs up the soil bed very well.
> 
> If I was you I'd use a slit seeder or a thatcher power rake to prepare the seed bed. I would then use a broadcast spreader to spread the seed. I like to use a drop spreader for the edges. I prefer the seeds to not go into my beds.
> 
> ...


I am deciding on overseeding methods. I was considering having the lawn aerated and then using a broadcast spreader either same day or likely within a week, depending on timing. Another option was renting a slit seeder and using that. I had not considered your option, a slit seeder to rough the soil up and then a spreader to spread seed. Why do you do it this way instead of using the hopper in the slit seeder? In your opinion, is this a better method than aerating and broadcast seeding, where the cores could possibly break down and act a bit as topdressing?


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## osuturfman (Aug 12, 2017)

CPA Nerd said:


> wardconnor said:
> 
> 
> > I own a slit seeder. I use it to verticut only. It roughs up the soil bed very well.
> ...


Aside from the information I added above about seed placement, let's talk about another important seeding sub-topic: Surface Disruption.

Surface disruption can be easily calculated based on the area of your lawn that is actually affected by your chosen seeding prep equipment and expressed as a percentage of the total area. Let's take a look at a standard walk-behind overseeder vs. a standard walk-behind aerator.

_Seeder_

The seeder features ten blades which each have a width of 1/16" (0.0625") and an effective width of 19".

10 Blades X 0.0625" per blade = 0.625" of surface

0.625" Surface Disruption / 19" effective width of the machine = *3.3% Surface Disruption*

_Aerator_

At the tightest spacing, the aerator can produce 9 holes per square foot with 3/4" (0.75" tines).

Area of circle on our tines to calculate per tine surface disruption:

π X 0.375^2 = 0.4415625 square inches per tine hole

0.4415625 square inches per tine hole X 9 holes per square foot = 3.9704625" surface

3.9704625" surface / 144 square inches in one square foot = *2.76% surface disruption*

_Summary_

This highlights the difference in the actual area affected only. The other thing to consider is creating a shallow horizontal channel versus a deeper vertical channel. In my experience, both approaches will work out fine, however, 20% more surface disruption in one pass from the seeder, in addition to verticutting the canopy is a big plus for the seeder. As much as the seed needs proper seed to soil contact, the seedling it produces needs as little competition for sunlight as it can get in the early establishment period. That's why the seeder is a clear winner for me, whether you use the hopper or broadcast/roll in.


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

The reason I do not like to put the seed in the hopper is because the seeder rips up a ton of thatch and throws it in top of the lawn. All that thatch needs to be cleaned up before you put the seed down. I like to vacuum it up with my rotary mower. If you vacuum the thatch up you'll likely vacuum up the grass seed.

See this video about ripping up the thatch and how much debris gets on the lawn.

https://youtu.be/d7ihS8dKxKQ


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## CPA Nerd (May 8, 2018)

wardconnor said:


> The reason I do not like to put the seed in the hopper is because the seeder rips up a ton of thatch and throws it in top of the lawn. All that thatch needs to be cleaned up before you put the seed down. I like to vacuum it up with my rotary mower. If you vacuum the thatch up you'll likely vacuum up the grass seed.
> 
> See this video about ripping up the thatch and how much debris gets on the lawn.


Very interesting. Would a good approach be to mow low, slit seeder without seed, mow to pick up dead stuff, then slit seed with seed in the hopper one pass each direction? Or is that too much for the lawn to handle and that's why you suggest broadcast instead of slit seeder for dropping the seed? Problem is I have no means of rolling the seed. Would broadcast seeding work if I don't roll?

I do believe after mowing tonight that my lawns needs to be aerated. What is a reasonable means for overseeding in my situation?

Aerate one weekend
Slit seeder the next without seed, then broadcast spread seed. However, I wouldn't be rolling.

Sorry for rambling. Any advice is appreciated!


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## CPA Nerd (May 8, 2018)

osuturfman said:


> CPA Nerd said:
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> > wardconnor said:
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Very interesting! As an accountant I appreciate the detailed analysis and certainly can appreciate 20% additional surface area disturbed. What about a double pass aeration? How does that change your opinion?

I'm torn on which method to use. I do know I need aeration. So I would, for simplicity, like to have that done by a service then simply broadcast spread seed right after, and not have to rent a truck and slit seeder. I'd work the larger bare spots with a garden weasel. Thoughts?


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## jurkewycmi (Jun 3, 2018)

Rollers can be rented for super cheap from big box stores. $10 day or less. Seems like a pretty economical way to increase seed soil contact after the surface disruption provided by aerating or slit seeding.


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## CPA Nerd (May 8, 2018)

jurkewycmi said:


> Rollers can be rented for super cheap from big box stores. $10 day or less. Seems like a pretty economical way to increase seed soil contact after the surface disruption provided by aerating or slit seeding.


Do you just fill them with water and push it across the lawn? The Home Depot one is 270 pounds full. Are they designed to be pushed by hand or attached to a tractor? I would have to do it by hand.


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

Yeah. I'd aerate one weekend the seed the next.

Slit seeder without seed.
Vacuum mower 
Slit seed opposite direction without seed. 
Vacuum mower
Slit seeder WITH seed in the hopper.

Light raking to get seeds a little more seated.


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## CPA Nerd (May 8, 2018)

wardconnor said:


> Yeah. I'd aerate one weekend the seed the next.
> 
> Slit seeder without seed.
> Vacuum mower
> ...


What is vacuum mower? Does that mean bagging the clippings?


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

CPA Nerd said:


> wardconnor said:
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> > Yeah. I'd aerate one weekend the seed the next.
> ...


Yes. Just use the traditional rotary mower with the bagger on it. This will essentially vacuum up the thatch that the slit seeder tore out.


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## CPA Nerd (May 8, 2018)

wardconnor said:


> CPA Nerd said:
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Thanks.


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## CPA Nerd (May 8, 2018)

How successful would the below method be? I am trying to avoid using a slit seeder as they are big, heavy, expensive and I would have to rent a truck to transport and probably bug a friend or relative to help me lift the damn thing into and out of the truck. Trying to keep this somewhat quick

All on same day...

-Aerate (professional will do it), leave cores on the lawn
-Overseed with broadcast spreader
-Starter fertilizer
-Roll the lawn with 270 pound hand roller - would the roller smashing the cores defeat the purpose of aerating and leaving the cores on the lawn?

I'm seeing a lot of conflicting opinions on rolling on various forums. People are saying rolling is counterproductive to aerating and essentially recompacts the soil. I would think that the benefits of rolling for seed to soil contact would far outweigh the slight compaction it would cause.


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## Turfguy93 (Aug 30, 2017)

CPA Nerd said:


> How successful would the below method be? I am trying to avoid using a slit seeder as they are big, heavy, expensive and I would have to rent a truck to transport and probably bug a friend or relative to help me lift the damn thing into and out of the truck. Trying to keep this somewhat quick
> 
> All on same day...
> 
> ...


You won't compact your yard with a 270 lbs roller. Compare that to a 200 lbs person walking across a yard and putting all 200 lbs on 1 foot with each step.


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## CPA Nerd (May 8, 2018)

Turfguy93 said:


> CPA Nerd said:
> 
> 
> > How successful would the below method be? I am trying to avoid using a slit seeder as they are big, heavy, expensive and I would have to rent a truck to transport and probably bug a friend or relative to help me lift the damn thing into and out of the truck. Trying to keep this somewhat quick
> ...


My thoughts exactly. I'm going to stick with my method above all done on the same day or possibly aeration a week prior, depending on when I can schedule it.

Aerate
Mow low
Overseed with spreader
Roll the lawn with a hand roller rented from Home Depot

Starter fertilizer and perhaps half bag rate of Milorganite after the first mow.


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## jboss10 (Jul 30, 2018)

That's the method I think I'm going to do in two weekends. Except, like yourself, heard that the roller will just end up compacting too much. Who the heck knows ha


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## erickdaniels (Jun 29, 2018)

I've been reading your various proposed methods. Can you topdress after seeding instead of rolling? Would topdressing give you the 100% seed-to-soil contact desired? It would also add organics to the lawn. Is there concern about burying the seeds "too deep" and therefore preventing them from germinating?


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## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

I've never rolled the lawn and I've had great success with germination. I do rake the ground before I seed or use a garden weasel or use a verticutter or some kind of dethatcher to loosen the top surface a little. I then use the back of the rake to go lightly over the seed. This puts the seed into the dirt. I then cover with 1/4 to 1/2" of peat moss to help retain moisture. If you don't use peat, then perhaps rolling may be a good idea to help firm the surface and push the seed into the dirt. As for a push roller weighing 300 lbs compacting the soil? I doubt that's much different than a heavier person walking in the grass.


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## goblue4016 (Jul 26, 2018)

erickdaniels said:


> I've been reading your various proposed methods. Can you topdress after seeding instead of rolling? Would topdressing give you the 100% seed-to-soil contact desired? It would also add organics to the lawn. Is there concern about burying the seeds "too deep" and therefore preventing them from germinating?


I was wondering this as well after reading this thread. Maybe instead of rolling the seed for my Reno I just put a top dress of soil or soil/compost mix for 100% seed contact


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## LadyAnglesey (Aug 9, 2018)

jessehurlburt said:


> I like to expose the soil well (i use an electric greenworks dethatcher) then broadcast, roll and cover with peat.


Ah man, and here I thought I had a new idea. I noticed how my GW Dethatcher can really disturb the top layer if I want it to.


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## jessehurlburt (Oct 18, 2017)

LadyAnglesey said:


> jessehurlburt said:
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> > I like to expose the soil well (i use an electric greenworks dethatcher) then broadcast, roll and cover with peat.
> ...


I haven't adjusted the tines on mine. Did you drop yours down? Thinking of getting a little more aggressive in some of the thinner spots.. Getting really excited for my overseed project.


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## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

LadyAnglesey said:


> jessehurlburt said:
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> > I like to expose the soil well (i use an electric greenworks dethatcher) then broadcast, roll and cover with peat.
> ...


Hehe. I do the same with a vonhaus version. :thumbup:


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## LadyAnglesey (Aug 9, 2018)

jessehurlburt said:


> LadyAnglesey said:
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Yes, I do drop it down and it gouges the top layer nicely, slicing through almost like a slit seeder but without the pretty uniformity.


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## Scagfreedom48z+ (Oct 6, 2018)

Would it be overkill or potentially over stress the existing lawn to use both a core aerator and use a slit seeder(without seed) to disrupt the soil for overseeding? I don't have much experience with a slit seeder so this is why I'm curious. It just seems using a slit seeder for bed prep isn't enough disruption for compacted soil. I may be overthinking it. I don't mind having to rent both if it's going to give me better results.


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## Scagfreedom48z+ (Oct 6, 2018)

Any thoughts?


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## Delmarva Keith (May 12, 2018)

Scagfreedom48z+ said:


> Would it be overkill or potentially over stress the existing lawn to use both a core aerator and use a slit seeder(without seed) to disrupt the soil for overseeding? I don't have much experience with a slit seeder so this is why I'm curious. It just seems using a slit seeder for bed prep isn't enough disruption for compacted soil. I may be overthinking it. I don't mind having to rent both if it's going to give me better results.


If your existing grass is good enough to worry about, you likely don't need both. What is your end goal?


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## Scagfreedom48z+ (Oct 6, 2018)

Delmarva Keith said:


> Scagfreedom48z+ said:
> 
> 
> > Would it be overkill or potentially over stress the existing lawn to use both a core aerator and use a slit seeder(without seed) to disrupt the soil for overseeding? I don't have much experience with a slit seeder so this is why I'm curious. It just seems using a slit seeder for bed prep isn't enough disruption for compacted soil. I may be overthinking it. I don't mind having to rent both if it's going to give me better results.
> ...


It will be for an overseeding project for existing turf next fall. My soil is fairly compacted where aerating would relieve this. Reading through this thread, it seems that slit seeding would give the best seed/soil contact but not help with compaction. This is why I thought to myself, why not do both? My main goal is to give myself the best seed bed possible for optimal seed germination, while relieving compaction.


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## Delmarva Keith (May 12, 2018)

If the goal is reduce compaction while having best seed bed possible, do both. With that as the goal, don't worry about existing grass.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I'm not an overseed, so don't listen too much to my experience.

Seed to soil contact is the key. Whatever you do to get you that, the best. But I think the answer is, it depends. If you have a decent density in your lawn going into late summer, overseeding might not be needed. Unless you have sections of 100% fescue, I don't see the need at all, but that's just my opinion.

Aerate will stress the roots of you current lawn and place the cores on top of the crowns/thatch. The cores will eventually dissolve and provide a soil for the seeds. But you really need to go multiple passes and breaking the cores will help. The problem to me is the holes. Seeds will fall in there and die and it will dry up the soil faster (surface area). There is one advantage to the holes, you could fill them with compost and improve your soil organic matter content. Therefore I think, aerate, bring compost and then drag the cores. The existing lawn will take a beating, but you are dropping seeds and will make it look better in the end. The exposed soil will grow your seeds and weed seeds, so use Tenacity at seed down.

A good slit seeder should be like a plow and create a groove for the seeds to go in and then cover them with the soil. Key word, good slit seeder on a flat surface. If the slits are not into the soil, all you are doing is removing thatch and placing seeds on top of the soil instead of into the soil. They might still germinate better than just broadcasting seeds on top of the thatch.

Lastly, the amount of work for all of this is not much different than a complete Reno. Round up, remove the dead stuff or aerate/drag. Of course there are more risk (washout lack of germination).


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## jdc_lawnguy (Oct 30, 2018)

@Scagfreedom48z+ I have a friend who was contemplating this same thing last year. He aerated in lately July/early August and went at his lawn from every conceivable angle. Think he did a triple or quad pass.

Then about a month later, after the cores had broken down he ran the slit seeder. He had really good results.

I asked him about doing it all at once. His response was he would not do it unless removing the cores. Which on a lawn your size may be a job in and of itself. Just some food for thought.


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## Scagfreedom48z+ (Oct 6, 2018)

Thanks for the responses!

Would you be able to mow the cores down with a mower and speed up the process? That would probably reduce the chances of having to remove the cores since they're being broken down by the mower.

Do your friend use the slice seeder to lay down the seed or just as a way to rough up the soil and then broadcast it?


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## jdc_lawnguy (Oct 30, 2018)

I have never mowed within a few weeks of aerating so not sure if you could suck them up and emmacerate them or not. Usually I notice anything left by the time I mow is crushed my tractor tires.

Slice seeder generally do a good job dropping seed where needed if it a quality machine. Key is to make sure you are putting down proper amount of seed. If you goal is to
Put down 3 lb/M and you are going to go in two directions you should only be putting down 1.5 lb/M per pass and you want to make sure that is what the machine you are using is putting out.

You can always put down extra seed in areas that call more than other parts.


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## Scagfreedom48z+ (Oct 6, 2018)

Appreciate everyone sharing their experiences.

Seems like slit seeding might be the way to go here. I'm going to go heavy this year with air8 and see if the compaction loosens over the spring and summer.


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## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

If you are overseeding, I wouldn't be concerned about hurting any existing grass. Even if you kill half of it, you are planting seed so it'll be even thicker. As for using a slit seeder vs core aerator, I prefer the core aerator for compacted soils. It looks terrible after you do it but once seeded and a few weeks pass, it all goes away and looks great. I would make sure to get as deep of a core as you can and go over it multiple times. Tear it up!! Watch some grass factor vids and he does many passes. Big ugly mess but a few weeks later, wow! Also, with all those holes, it's a good time to broadcast anything you want to get deeper into the soil. Top dressing is good but maybe not with 30M... Good time to put down lime and P if you need either as they are slower to move through the soil profile.

If you don't have compacted soil, only using a slit seeder in a + pattern is a good way to get soil contact for your seed. The drawback to a slit seeder is the flat surface needed for it to work well.

If you have golf course type lawn, go for the slit seeder. I'm assuming you are reel mowing too. For average residential lawns, core aerate. My choice at least.


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## Suburban Jungle Life (Mar 1, 2018)

Oh. Also, where you live, I would overseed mostly with KBG. Eventually, you may not need to overseed anymore!


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## Scagfreedom48z+ (Oct 6, 2018)

Suburban Jungle Life said:


> Oh. Also, where you live, I would overseed mostly with KBG. Eventually, you may not need to overseed anymore!


Thanks for the info Suburban Jungle! I'm planning on overseeding with KBG/TTTF and getting a shade mix for certain sections of the lawn from hogan


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## Scagfreedom48z+ (Oct 6, 2018)

So I've brainstorming a little and taking all the info from this thread.Renting the equipment is no issue. Also have irrigation.

What do you guys think of this:

Week before over seeding:

core aerate to loosen compaction. Give existing turf a little time to recoop from stress and get down PGR to slow down existing growth

Week of overseeding:

Use slice seeder without seed to rough up seed bed. 2 different passes in 2 different directions.

Broadcast seed with a Lesco broadcast spreader

Rent a ecolawn compost spreader to throw down topsoil to cover seed

Rent Roller and and compact compost into seed into seed bed.

Hit it with tenacity and RGS

First mow:

Apply starter fert

I'm probably getting crazy with this but I'm trying to put out the best outcome possible.


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## gene_stl (Oct 29, 2017)

Why broadcast seed if you have a slice seeder?


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## Delmarva Keith (May 12, 2018)

Scagfreedom48z+ said:


> So I've brainstorming a little and taking all the info from this thread.Renting the equipment is no issue. Also have irrigation.
> 
> What do you guys think of this:
> 
> ...


Sounds like a pretty good plan and I'm guessing you're not adverse to hard work.  Only thing I would do a little different is spray the tenacity before seeding and spread the starter fert at seed down. Just the way I do those apps. I recognize there are different schools of thought on the timing.

Also consider adding a clean up action item after the rough up seed bed (verticutting / slice seed with no seed) step. There will be a lot of thatch churned up that can interfere with getting seed down to the ground. High lift blades and bagger is adequate. Rake and tarp if you really enjoy punishment. :mrgreen:

Also, the roller is an excellent step - really helps in my experience. Just don't fill it too heavy. Maybe halfway or a bit less at the most. It doesn't take a whole lot of weight but the effect is to brush and push any seed stuck in the canopy or thatch down into good contact with the dirt.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

My only advise it to avoid bringing in topsoil if you dont plan to fallow it. You never know what weeds it has.


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## Scagfreedom48z+ (Oct 6, 2018)

g-man said:


> My only advise it to avoid bringing in topsoil if you dont plan to fallow it. You never know what weeds it has.


Good point Gman. I've got plenty of Poa triv to deal with next fall as it is


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## Scagfreedom48z+ (Oct 6, 2018)

Delmarva Keith said:


> Scagfreedom48z+ said:
> 
> 
> > So I've brainstorming a little and taking all the info from this thread.Renting the equipment is no issue. Also have irrigation.
> ...


Thanks for your feedback! I'm definitely open to any opinions!


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