# Can you help me craft a checklist for an installation quote?



## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

Last year, I thought I'd undertake a DIY setup. Based on my available time, it's looking like this isn't going to be feasible for me, so I intend to secure estimates. I am not sure if there are any asks that I need to be sure that they are capable of providing.

Ultimately, I am trying to avoid a situation where I get it installed, and then later on down the line, I find out I should have asked them about doing XYZ or installing XYZ.

I know that I will need head to head coverage. Outside of that, I am not sure what needs to be must haves vs user preferences. Not a handy guy so I am not smart enough to know what _to_ inquire about.

ETA: those ungodly shrubs have been removed since the time of this video. I've included pics within the thread.


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## jayhawk (Apr 18, 2017)

Tell us about your yard? Flat or not, dimensions ....

Shrubs and trees do not need irrigation (a zone)


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

I would design it, and have someone install it. You spec out the head type and spacing, all that good stuff. Talk to your local municipal water source, find out how many GPM flow you SHOULD be getting.

And no, a bucket test off of your 1/2" spigot is not a good indication 

I generally design for 10 GPM max, as most places can supply that.


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

@jayhawk here is a video of the walkaround: 




Here are the dimensions:

Zones	Direction Length Width Total Sqft
Zone 1 (toward main intersection) 66 15 990
Zone 2 (curbside near neighbors) 13 13 169
Zone 3 (adjacent to slab -near front entrance) 20 23 460
Zone 4 (near front entrance) 24 25 600
Zone 5 (north boundary) 11 52 572
Zone 6 (west boundary) 9 70 630
Zone 7 (south boundary) 14 56 784
TOTAL 4,205


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## jayhawk (Apr 18, 2017)

I hope others weigh in 

Are u keeping the tall shrubs in the front? Assuming so, so that might take rotors off the table?
As u came around the back to the front...narrower rectangular areas...
I bet most installers will just run a row of rainbird 1800s on one side. You will want them on both edges (head to head cov), from experience.

Looks like a rather flat elevation.

You'll want to consider 'upgrades' like 
Undercut (u-series) 
High efficiency (HE-van) 
Or the rotating tips (Rvan)

I'd use pressure regulated heads for 2$ more


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

jayhawk said:


> I hope others weigh in
> 
> *Are u keeping the tall shrubs in the front? Assuming so, so that might take rotors off the table?*
> As u came around the back to the front...narrower rectangular areas...
> ...


I realized that I did this video before I got those removed. That's largely buckthorn, and I got that taken down and moved out! I will be planting some smaller ornamentals (rhododendrons, hydrangeas, etc).





What are pressure regulated heads?

I have a company coming by next week to survey the area. I was hoping to learn of what I might want to ask him...IF I need to ask him anything at all.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

One way to qualify a potential bidder is to ask them this question. You'll quickly learn what they know and how quality-minded they are. So if this was me I'd be like "Hey bud, I'm really particular about my yard and I'd love to have a top-of-the line system ... but I don't know what I don't know. What makes a system a top-tier one anyhow? Or are they all the same?" If he takes the bait on that last one and dismisses things you know he's not quality driven, he just bangs them out.

As for what's important ... it's mostly doing the basics right, IMO! Sizing the system right is right up there.


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

1.) A written plan, even if you have to pay for it (because they don't want to do them and have you go to somebody else)
2.) Head to head coverage
3.) A blow out connection (because you're in the Tundra, and your pipes are gonna freeze, might as well not have water in them when they do)


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

corneliani said:


> One way to qualify a potential bidder is to ask them this question. You'll quickly learn what they know and how quality-minded they are. So if this was me I'd be like "Hey bud, I'm really particular about my yard and I'd love to have a top-of-the line system ... but I don't know what I don't know. What makes a system a top-tier one anyhow? Or are they all the same?" If he takes the bait on that last one and dismisses things you know he's not quality driven, he just bangs them out.
> 
> As for what's important ... it's mostly doing the basics right, IMO! Sizing the system right is right up there.


That's a great idea @corneliani. How would I be able to distinguish whether he is quality or not based on that though? Irrigation _is_ my weak point.

The only things I know are:
1. I need to size the property and get an idea of how many zones I need (which I outlined above)
2. Have an idea of the type of sprinkler heads that I want. And for that, I spoke with someone at Site One last year and he 
suggested some Rainbird RVANs and Hunter PGJs.
3. Have a sense of how many GPMs that my system can support. I called my municipality to learn my static water pressure, 
and I also did the 5 gal bucket test, my system can support 10 GPM.

In addition to this, I don't know what else I need to know in general or going into my dealings with these vendors. Do you have an opinion on anything else that I need to keep in mind personally and/or when it comes with how to vet these vendors who might try to take advantage of my ignorance? I think I saw in another thread that I should ask if they are using a vibratory plow. I actually learned last year that this is what is used by companies. I figured it was standardly used on installs. I guess not, so I have that in mind to ask as well. I just don't want to miss anything before they come out.


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## turfnsurf (Apr 29, 2020)

SCGrassMan said:


> I would design it, and have someone install it. You spec out the head type and spacing, all that good stuff. Talk to your local municipal water source, find out how many GPM flow you SHOULD be getting.
> 
> And no, a bucket test off of your 1/2" spigot is not a good indication
> 
> I generally design for 10 GPM max, as most places can supply that.


@scgamecock my municipality told me that my static pressure is 65. Last year, I did the 5 gal bucket test and it took 30 seconds. Unless I am misunderstanding you, it sounds like my bucket test results don't matter. Am I right?


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

turfnsurf said:


> SCGrassMan said:
> 
> 
> > I would design it, and have someone install it. You spec out the head type and spacing, all that good stuff. Talk to your local municipal water source, find out how many GPM flow you SHOULD be getting.
> ...


Wrong SC . If you did 5 gallons in 30 seconds you're good, what I mean by that its more like, if it takes 3 minutes to fill a bucket from the tap, it doesn't mean your system is 1.66 GPM, it just means that faucet is. If you have plenty of flow at that tap you will in the system as well.

Also, make sure there is a shutoff for your irrigation system as close to the water meter as possible, like right where they tee into your main. Anything past the meter is your problem as far as the water company is concerned, and if something breaks you want to be able to shut it off close to the meter.


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## jayhawk (Apr 18, 2017)

Hunter and sprinkler warehouse have good info too. And theres the irrigation tutorials site

See if they mention rotor options when asking the great open question mentioned above.

Pressure regulated at the head help ensure optimal performance....too much pressure leads to misting (waste). You can look them up, cost is not a big leap.

https://youtu.be/UyB69bduCJU
In theory ...seem like a good choice


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