# Tier 1 Lawn Maintenance?



## Reaper (Jul 11, 2017)

Hi guys,

Newbie here. Spring is here so I'm looking to start the process of making sure I have a nice-looking lawn this year. Nothing crazy tho, we just had our first baby a week ago so I don't have too much free time; as long as it looks healthy and green from the street I'll be happy. I've done some research in the forum, but a lot of it seems way too advanced for what I'm looking to do right now (and I don't understand half the words).

So what is just a simple (Lowe's) list of things I should do starting now and into the summer months? It is worth noting I do not currently have a sprinkler system, but I may put one in this year depending on the price.

Help is much appreciated.

Thanks.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

The most general advice for spring and summer include
determine the square footage of your lawn https://www.findlotsize.com/
Buy crabgrass preventer product at Lowes based on your square footage needs (this helps prevent weeds from growing and gives your fescue a nice dose of nitrogen)
Mow between 3-4 inches (occasionally measure the cut grass to ensure proper cut height)
Give your fescue one inch of water per week (if it rains one inch that week, no need to water, usually)
Spot spray for weeds using an herbicide readily available at Lowes https://www.lowes.com/pd/ORTHO-Weed-B-Gon-32-oz-Weed-Killer-Plus-Crabgrass-Control/50094178 premixed bottles are available, so all you do is hook up to your hose and spray (but watch for temperature restrictions on usage--check the label)
Assess your lawn in late summer to decide if you will overseed in the fall (a usual practice of maintaining a fescue lawn) and think about fertilization. You might also consider getting a soil sample to see if you actually need any nutrient supplements other than nitrogen.

You can always post pictures or describe specific concerns if you have additional questions and/or want advice better tailored to your situation.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

and welcome to TLF :thumbup:


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## Colonel K0rn (Jul 4, 2017)

Welcome to TLF, and contrary to what other Cool Season members may say, bermuda is not a weed. It's an Alpha Grass.


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## Reaper (Jul 11, 2017)

Thanks for the replies.

Is Scotts a good brand? Should I just follow their 4-step program with the crabgrass preventer, were control, and fertilizer?

Also should I apply some lime? I put some down in the Fall at my neighbors recommendation, not sure if I should do it again now.


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

Hey, also from RI here. I made a video of the general lawn maintenance you'll need to do. This will give you a good lawn. The crazier you go with everything else has diminishing returns. We'll still do it because we have to lol but you can have a nice lawn without going all crazy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PbGDH_JOM9w

Scott's is an OK brand. You pay a premium for the name. But the Step 1 is easy to apply for pre-emergent. I'd use regular fertilizers over the other steps though. Lime really depends. If you want to go that route then get a soil test to see if you actually need it.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

Reaper said:


> Thanks for the replies.
> 
> Is Scotts a good brand? Should I just follow their 4-step program with the crabgrass preventer, were control, and fertilizer?
> 
> Also should I apply some lime? I put some down in the Fall at my neighbors recommendation, not sure if I should do it again now.


Welcome.

I totally agree with Grassdaddy.

And using a basic name-brand fertilizer plan the first year might not be a bad way to go. Scotts makes excellent products. However, if you go the Scotts 4-step route, some of their steps are actually not actually in the best order for Cool-season grass regions, but you can rearrange them to better suit your (our) area in RI/CT. We can help you with that. Another alternative that's still Scotts is their turfbuilder plan, where you can buy your own stuff and mix and match.

If you have Ace hardware, their own brand of step 1 with weed prevention (pre-emergent herbicide with Dimension) is probably better than Scotts' step 1 (which has Pendimethalin and usually doesn't last as long in the soil). Also, I'd generally avoid Step 2 in either the Scotts or Ace brand because it's a "weed and feed". Unless your entire yard is horribly overrun with non-grass type weeds, there's no reason to dump that much weed killer (herbicide) out. Those products also don't tend to work too well unless you follow the directions perfectly and have ideal weather in the days after application.

A good plan for this year might involve a step 1 with pre-emergent, a step 2 light application of fertilizer in early or mid June (as long as it's not 90 degrees), an early Fall app mid September or so, and a late Fall final app after you've mowed for the last time of the year and the grass isn't growing anymore.

Let me know if you'd like advice on specific readily available products like the ones we've been discussing for those apps. Some of it depends on your grass type. I see you listed "Fescue". Do you know what type, of if there's anything else mixed in? And when was the last fertilizer applied?


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## Reaper (Jul 11, 2017)

Thanks for all the help guys. So I went out and got the Step 1 a few weeks ago but in the chaos of taking care of a new baby, I forgot to put it down.

Is it too late now to apply it? It says on or before Easter (4/1), or before temps are regularly in the 80s. The temps are still in the high 50s and 60s right now so nothing too crazy.

Thanks.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I would do it. It will always help.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

I totally missed this little gem the first time this thread came around.


Colonel K0rn said:


> Welcome to TLF, and contrary to what other Cool Season members may say, bermuda is not a weed. It's an Alpha Grass.


Hmmm...



Colonel K0rn said:


> bermuda is not a weed. It's an Alpha Weed Grass


Fixed that for ya, CK.  No problem. I'm happy to help :thumbup:


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

Colonel K0rn said:


> Welcome to TLF, and contrary to what other Cool Season members may say, bermuda is not a weed. It's an Alpha Grass.


Welcome @Reaper

Bermuda is a weed that can be cut and manicured like a cool season grass or turf. :nod:

People call it grass because technically it looks like grass.


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## glenmonte (Sep 15, 2017)

Welcome here, to being a parent, and to having a nice lawn.

Someone said on one of my threads that my plan looked cruise control, and I took that as a compliment, because I love working on my lawn and yard, but the family takes precedent.

Good advice was given above. First and foremost, get a pre-emergent down asap. I'm on the mobile site, so I can't see your location, but dimension as a pre emergent at the heavier rate should work well. Just be careful if it has fertilizer too so you don't oversupply.

Get a pre mixed gallon of weed killer that is 2,4-d and diacamba for anything you see that isn't grass and squirt halfway between HIGH mowings (that you mulch or discharge). No weed and feeds- they're basically granular form of this spray applied to the whole lawn. Huge waste and unnecessary chemical dump.

Milorganite at bag rate at the end of May and another in July if your lawn didn't go dormant (but you should be watering).

If you can, aerate and overseed in the fall with 150% milorganite or a good starter at bag rate.


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## Reaper (Jul 11, 2017)

Thanks glenmonte. I'm in Rhode Island.

Excuse my ignorance, but what exactly is a pre-emergent? Is it just the Step 1 of the Scotts process?


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## glenmonte (Sep 15, 2017)

In my simple man terms- a pre-emergent is prevents weeds from germinating. I know it can be more complex than as follows, but there are two types of weeds that are the main problem in lawns- grassy (example: crabgrass) and broadleaf (example: dandelion).

Scotts Step 1 is a pre-emergent with a fertilizer, as are most lawn pre-emergents, but there may be better (and lesser known) brands at your Lowes. I recommended Dimension (dithopyr) because at its maximum rate, it can also knock down some crabgrass that already germinated. Other types I'd consider in different circumstances are Prodiamine (earlier in season) Tenacity/mesitrione (early fall/overseeding) and Tupersan/siduron (overseeding). There is another one- pendamethlin- that I don't know much about, so for that reason alone I stay away from. To apply, I go with granular. I do not have experience with spray, but a lot here do. I'd think granular fits your needs better.

To control broadleaf weeds, the best defense is a thick lawn. Then if you do get any, the first offensive is to spot spray them with the most basic weed killer that won't kill your lawn.

Please- to anyone else- correct any misinformation you see here, especially on the names and uses above.


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## Reaper (Jul 11, 2017)

Ok thanks. If I can find the Dimension I will put that down this weekend if that's better than Scott's. Should there be rain or no rain in the forecast after this is down?


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Reaper said:


> If I can find the Dimension I will put that down this weekend if that's better than Scott's


Dimension is an excellent choice for a Pre-emergent (PreM), but it takes more effort to locate it by itself (i.e., without fertilizer) in granular form. I got mine at a farm supply store. Many of us do use PreMs that are not mixed with fertilizer.

But as other have suggested you can certainly use a PreM and fertilizer combination--especially if you are just starting out. They are, among other things, easier to find and purchase, which is probably what you need with a new baby around the house.
Note Green's suggestions here:


Green said:


> If you have Ace hardware, their own brand of step 1 with weed prevention (pre-emergent herbicide with Dimension) is probably better than Scotts' step 1 (which has Pendimethalin and usually doesn't last as long in the soil)


It looks like Ace Hardware has two versions; to get a bag with dimension, you'll need to get Ace 'Green Turf' on the label (in small print, the active ingredient will read 'dithiopyr' -- that's what you want. Dithiopyr=Dimension). That product is cut with fertilizer, but it is primarily Nitrogen (at 30-0-4), so that is fine.



Reaper said:


> Should there be rain or no rain in the forecast after this is down?


Definitely, definitely read the label. 
But, in general you want to water granular Dimension in with about half an inch. You must also water the fertilizer in or it can burn your grass. But again, read the label.
It is fine to have a light rain after applying a PreM, but heavy downpours are to be avoided. It can take a bit of strategizing.

To minimize risk, plan on applying when you have a stretch of sunny weather. That also means plan on watering the product in your soil.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Also, the label will likely recommend that you use a 'cross pattern' when applying the product. If your not a visual thinker (like me), imagine mowing in rows, finishing, and then mowing again from the side (you'll form some perpendicular lines along the way). 
Using this application pattern helps to minimize over-application in one area and also increases breadth of product coverage.

I should also emphasize that I think you will be fine regardless of which product you use: PreM alone vs PreM plus fertilizer. And I agree with others that Dimension/Dithiopyr is a fine choice for a PreM.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

social port said:


> Note Green's suggestions here:
> 
> 
> Green said:
> ...


@Reaper: Definitely not too late to apply a Pre-M. Some weeds might have sneaked past you, but most of them haven't yet.

If you already have the Scotts Step 1 with Pendimethalin and want to use that and don't have time to do an exchange, you can apply it at 1.5 lbs for every 1,000 square feet of grass now, and then follow-up with the Dimension at the same application rate (from Ace Hardware or Home Depot, whichever is closest to you) in mid June...doing it this way is a viable option. The Dimension product to look for at Home Depot is Lesco 19-0-7, and comes in a 50-lb bag. I would buy it ahead of time though, as they sell out after May sometimes.

If you decide to do the exchange and use the Dimension instead of the Scotts the first time, I would still do the same thing...1.5 lbs to every thousand square feet now, and then again in mid June at the same rate.

Keep it simple!



social port said:


> Also, the label will likely recommend that you use a 'cross pattern' when applying the product. If your not a visual thinker (like me), imagine mowing in rows, finishing, and then mowing again from the side (you'll form some perpendicular lines along the way).
> Using this application pattern helps to minimize over-application in one area and also increases breadth of product coverage.


And, definitely do this, as @social port recommends, with each application. Get a cheap food or garden scale, weigh out half the amount you need, and apply it all in one direction, making sure that on each pass, the furthest granules that get thrown out of the spreader hit your wheel track from the previous pass. Then do the same with the second set of passes, but in the opposite direction.

For example, if you're doing 1,000 square feet of grass at 1.5 lb/M rate as mentioned above, weigh out 1.5/2= 0.75 lb of product, and apply it over the whole area, making passes from East to West or whatever. Then weigh out another 0.75 lb, and make passes in the perpendicular direction. In the end, you'll have made a checkerboard-like pattern with your spreader using the right amounts, and will be assured of even coverage.


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

Reaper said:


> Thanks glenmonte. I'm in Rhode Island.
> 
> Excuse my ignorance, but what exactly is a pre-emergent? Is it just the Step 1 of the Scotts process?


Perfect time to apply in RI. I'm in South County!


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## Reaper (Jul 11, 2017)

Thanks for all the help.

I think I'm just gonna go pick up a bag of Scott's Step 1 and put that down. And then follow with Steps 3/4 later on. With the baby I just need the quickest and easiest process right now. As she gets older and I get more free time I will invest more time in the lawn.


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

Do Milorganite monthly (or every other) instead of Steps 3/4. Your lawn will thank you later.


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

BTW, @Reaper how much lawn do you have?


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## glenmonte (Sep 15, 2017)

ericgautier said:


> Do Milorganite monthly (or every other) instead of Steps 3/4. Your lawn will thank you later.


I second this. Milorganite is actually much easier because it is more forgiving, a better product, and cheaper.


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## Reaper (Jul 11, 2017)

OK I will look for the Milorganite if that is better.

How long should I wait to put that down after the Step 1? I put the Step 1 down today.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

I believe the suggestion regarding Milorganite involved you using Scott's steps 1 and 2. Then when it is time for you to do step 3, use Milo instead of the Scott's product. You would then use Milo again instead of Scott's step 4, when it is time to apply step 4. In other words, you would follow the Scott's program in terms of when to apply product, but you would use Milo instead of Scott's at steps 3 and 4.

I don't know enough about the Scott's program to advise, but I do think there is some wisdom is following a guided program (which Scott's offers in their step program) when you are just starting out in lawn care.


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## Reaper (Jul 11, 2017)

Understood. But it seemed like the consensus was that the Step 2 (Weed and Feed) was not entirely necessary since my lawn does not have many weeds other than a few dandelions.

So that's why I was just going to skip right to the Milorganite.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

@Reaper Sorry, I missed that. 
Weed and feed products are not that desirable anyway because liquid herbicides are usually better than granular for existing weeds


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

If you're considering installing a sprinkler system you won't be in Tier 1 for long :lol:


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## Reaper (Jul 11, 2017)

So I put down the Milorganite this weekend, but I ended up using two bags of it (72 lbs).

The bag states it should cover 2500 sq ft, and my lawn is just under that (I'm only doing my front lawn now, the back is a disaster so I will tackle that next year). So I thought for sure one bag would cover it. However, the directions state to set the spreader to 11.5 (I have the Scotts DLX spreader) so once I started passing I noticed the amount in the spreader to drop quick. I only passed half the lawn before it ran out.

Maybe I'm underestimating how far the fertilizer is being spread and need to space put my passes more? Can too much fertilizer hurt the lawn?


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## 1fish2fish (May 12, 2018)

Full disclaimer... you and I are in a similar place, both new.

From what I am reading Milorganite each month (except June & July) is a good feeding strategy and although I'm sure it's possible to put down too much I don't think it's going to hurt anything.

Here's a video by Grass Daddy about Milorganite: https://youtu.be/NUCpBaix8Bs


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Milo won't hurt your lawn, but other fertilizers could. It will grow fast now that it is double rate. It will also need extra water. Mow frequently with a sharp blade.

In the future, weight the amount of product needed for the area. Then start walking with the spreader at zero and start opening the spreader until you see product flowing at the lowest setting. Continue walking the area multiple times/direction until it is all gone. This yields an even distribution. The setting listed in the bag are normally inaccurate.


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## Rucraz2 (Apr 8, 2018)

I here your story. It is hard with little ones. I had just got to a point my older two were self sufficient and we threw another in the mix. Now she's two and we just moved into a 1.3 acre property with irrigation. We dont use daycare and juggle our schedules to avoid it. So if and when we do have free time. Its hard to explain the need for me to get out in the yard to the wife. I have a list of things I need to get done outside and the wife has another for inside. Its very frustrating especially when its something I am passionate about. I was keeping up with Pete's reno he did last year and the whole time I just kept thinking, does his family ever see him? The amount of work he did in that reno was something that would take me years to achieve with my free time.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I'm there with you. I have an 8yr old and a 2yr. We juggle who gets to do stuff (laundry vs mowing the lawn) as we both work. As the 2yr old gets older I am able to put her to work (ie water the flowers or give her a bulb spade to play around with). BTW, Pete does have kids.


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## Rucraz2 (Apr 8, 2018)

The actual % of nitrogen that is recommended by milorganite is actually low. They take grass clippings you put back into account for nitrogen. The bag they sell will actually only cover 1800 sqft. If you are trying to achieve 1lb per 1k I know this from speaking to them directly after doing the easy calculation myself. You should only put down 3-5lbs in a total yr depending on your lawn type. Even still. I know a lot of guys that double, triple and have even put down 37lbs of "N"(nitrogen) per 1k as much for research sake that have not had any issues. In fact his lawn grew like a madman. So dont worry about putting too much down. Just like the video, you are probably needing more.


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## Rucraz2 (Apr 8, 2018)

Yeah I know he does. Thats why I asked if they see him, haha. My brother farms in Iowa and his kids never see him in the spring and fall. His step daughter asked when she was little if he moved out?


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## 1fish2fish (May 12, 2018)

As a father of two teenagers, I would advise you get them involved while they are little and still care what you think. They don't have to be productive, just involved. Most times they will add work while they are little but it's great having them there and then before you know it they are telling you how it should be done. LOL!


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## BXMurphy (Aug 5, 2017)

Reaper said:


> Thanks for all the help.
> 
> I think I'm just gonna go pick up a bag of Scott's Step 1 and put that down. And then follow with Steps 3/4 later on. With the baby I just need the quickest and easiest process right now. As she gets older and I get more free time I will invest more time in the lawn.


Yep. That is all you are going to need for right now. Set your mower on the highest setting and mow once a week without fail. This is very important at your stage. If you can only cut half your lawn, that will be fine. Come back the next day or a day after and cut the other half.

Watering will start to become important at the end of June. The last two weeks of July and the first two weeks of August will be very critical for water. Get at least a half inch every week. That is about 45 minutes to an hour with an oscillating sprinkler.

The general cycle for lawn care goes like this: Weed (control) in the spring, seed and feed in the fall. Water is most critical in summer.

Anything else is gravy at this point. All my best with the new baby and your lawn.


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