# John Deere 2500A Triplex Resto



## UFG8RMIKE

Picked up a screaming deal on a 2500A w 2500 hours on the clock. She runs and operates perfectly. Hydraulics are good and the engine starts and runs super smooth. The cutting units could use some refurbishing but the reels themselves look nearly new, with 0 rust. I got a set of verticutter units and another 2500A parts machine to boot. (with a running engine). Wasn't exactly what I was looking for but I couldn't pass it up for $1,000 bucks.

We are breaking ground on a new home, and have a year till it will be done, so I plan to do the refurb in stages over the next year and will be using this thread to document the process.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Started digging in to the unit. Planning to sandblast and repaint the top deck, seat deck, access plate, engine cover, rims, and ROPS bar. As well as refurb and repaint the cutting units, lifting arms, and lighting brackets. I'll also pick up a new seat, and some fancy LED floodlights.


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## Bmossin

AWESOME


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## UFG8RMIKE

Getting her broken down.

Lifting arms had some play in them and so will be doing the lift arm bushings.


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## UFG8RMIKE




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## UFG8RMIKE

Ohh man, here we go. Everything that's going to get refinished has been removed. Off to sandblasting, powdercoating and painting.











Frame and all rusty parts that cant be removed will get wire brushed and a couple coats of VHT rust converter, primed, then painted.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Wire wheeled all the rusty areas as well as the hugely corroded battery tray and picked up a couple cans of VHT rust converter.

The stuff works really well. All rust converted to a black oxide protective coating. This will get sanded, primed and painted.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Sooo. Would it be a sin to paint a John Deere another color besides green and yellow?

Seeing as how this thread is ultra popular, I'm not expecting much in terms of feedback. 
.


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## brownnl

Paint it Toro red!


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## lbb091919

This is an awesome thread. Can't wait to see the stuff after it comes back from powder coating. I'll be tuning in for sure!


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## UFG8RMIKE

Ohh hey, some life lol. I don't really care for the darker green on this machine. Maybe because it's dull and dirty but it seems the newer John Deere's are more of a lime green which I like better.. IDK but red did cross my mind. I'll stick with green yellow primarily because I already ordered a new yellow seat but the color options really are endless.

https://www.prismaticpowders.com/gallery

I found a shop who will sandblast and powder coat everything, and color match/paint the hood for 1250, which I feel is reasonable. I was initially interested in getting a cheap oven off Craigslist and a powder coat setup and doing it myself however at that rate it will be much easier to have them do it. Especially considering the seat plate, deck plate, and hood would need done by them anyway due to their size. I should end up right around 3k total all in including the cost of the mower. Breaking the reels down for powder coating is a bit intimidating. With everything in pieces, I'm praying I can get it all back together again.

Thoughts on kiwi green? https://www.prismaticpowders.com/gallery/67480/powder-coated-wheels-in-pss-5666

.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Leaning towards ordering Carlisle Turf Track R/S tires over the slicks.

https://www.amazon.com/Carlisle-Turf-Trac-Lawn-Garden/dp/B005O5YV6A


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## ReelMowLow74

I've definitely been following along! I would stick with the green and yellow but make it your own for sure! You're doing it, might as well make it unique to you.

Is there much of a cost difference in the powder coat colors? If not, why not go with something that has some flake in it like:

Illusion sour apple: 
https://www.prismaticpowders.com/gallery?htids=Illusion%20Sour%20Apple%20PMB-6913

Probably not the right shade of green and could be slightly darker but looks great in a gloss application! 
Thoughts on painting the wheels black too vs the yellow that is standard? It's a mower, I know, but some of the zero turn units with black wheels look great!


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## UFG8RMIKE

ReelMowLow74 said:


> I've definitely been following along! I would stick with the green and yellow but make it your own for sure! You're doing it, might as well make it unique to you.
> 
> Is there much of a cost difference in the powder coat colors? If not, why not go with something that has some flake in it like:
> 
> Illusion sour apple:
> https://www.prismaticpowders.com/gallery?htids=Illusion%20Sour%20Apple%20PMB-6913
> 
> Probably not the right shade of green and could be slightly darker but looks great in a gloss application!
> Thoughts on painting the wheels black too vs the yellow that is standard? It's a mower, I know, but some of the zero turn units with black wheels look great!


I actually thought about that color. Powder is really cheap. I can literally go in any direction.


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## UFG8RMIKE

After wire wheel, and before after VHT rust converter.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Srill breaking down parts for powder coating and just started getting into the cutting units. Wish I had the newer QA5's however I'll make due w these.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Ordered some powdercoat samples from Prismatic Powders and stopped at the local JD dealer to confirm color match. 


I'm fighting the urge to go all in on my own powdercoating setup, oven, gun, etc. vs paying the shop to do it. Only 3 parts are too large for a standard size oven which I can find cheaply on craigslist. I'm discovering many more pieces that I would like to powder coat now that she's all broken down. The only thing holding me back is the space....This project would be wayyy easier if the new house w huge garage/shop were already done.


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## Ren

if you end up switching to qa5s i would consider buying these off of you, then i can turn the worst 3 into verticutters.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Ren said:


> if you end up switching to qa5s i would consider buying these off of you, then i can turn the worst 3 into verticutters.


Thx, I will keep that in mind.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Started getting at the bushings. Everything else has been cake compared to these. Access to the 2 bushings on the back side of the frame for the front lift arms is severely restricted. I'll have to tackle them tomorrow with the new air hammer.

Making 2 cuts with a hackzall at 3 and 6:00 followed by a slide hammer worked well for the front 2.


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## ScottieBones

In for future updates!


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## UFG8RMIKE

Rear 2 bushings were a bitch. Left one would only allow a 3 and 9 o'clock cut due to access and the right one I could only make small cuts around the outside edge. It was time to break out the airhammer and hammer them out. Finally got all 4 for the front lift arms.

Fronts were more worn than the rear. Prob could have left the rear ones.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Lift arms themselves also have a bushing for the cutting head. These are brass and much softer, but they also needed cut out.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Pulled rear wheel, hub, seals bearings, and hub bolts. Hub bolts needed pounded out with the air hammer. I now have everything that will get powder coated off the mower and broken down for sandblasting. It will need a good degreasing 1st


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## sangheili

Very cool!


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## jayhawk

Richard Petty blue red white

Since you went thru all trouble, I'd want to customize the color too.

The lawn jockeys on their skaggs have tread and they tear up the ground. Of course, any kind of wheel spin is bad.


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## TheCutShop

Looking great! Tons of progress so far.

I had a 2653a that I bought for the engine. I feel bad now that all the reels and parts went to the scrapper (this happened before I knew reel mowers were awesome.)


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## UFG8RMIKE

Oh wow, yea. Those reels were worth more than scrap lol.

My project stalled out, took me forever to obtain 100lbs of Aluminum Oxide blast media. Harbor Freight was out and I was not about to pay 2x as much for the same thing somewhere else. I Finally got it, and discovered how long it will take to sandblast all the powder coat off. Powder coast is some tuff stuff. Now going the chemical striper route with CRC Gasket Remover, then a quick sandblast to rough up the metal.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Still waiting on the powdercoating.

Got the new lift arm bushings in. Ordered a C-clamp bearing press on amazon however it ended up being too small to fit around the frame. Had to improvise with a large socket and hammer. Put the bushings in the freezer overnight , greased, and tapped in with the hammer.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Frame all sanded, primed, and painted. Came out great.


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## Amoo316

@UFG8RMIKE how were you planning on addressing the cowling around the steering components? My 1200H has the same style plastic in some parts. I was leaning towards one of the better "bumer resto" products. The fiberglass body is coming out pretty nice on mine with a little bit of buffing and wax.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Amoo316 said:


> @UFG8RMIKE how were you planning on addressing the cowling around the steering components? My 1200H has the same style plastic in some parts. I was leaning towards one of the better "bumer resto" products. The fiberglass body is coming out pretty nice on mine with a little bit of buffing and wax.


That's exactly my plan. I haven't purchased anything yet but I have seen a couple bumper restoration products that promise a permanent staining. You can see in the photo the top portion where I tried hitting it with a propane torch, it brings the oils out and darkens it but it's not good enough, and not gonna work on the rubber style coating material lining the fuel tank.


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## Amoo316

UFG8RMIKE said:


> Amoo316 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @UFG8RMIKE how were you planning on addressing the cowling around the steering components? My 1200H has the same style plastic in some parts. I was leaning towards one of the better "bumer resto" products. The fiberglass body is coming out pretty nice on mine with a little bit of buffing and wax.
> 
> 
> 
> That's exactly my plan. I haven't purchased anything yet but I have seen a couple bumper restoration products that promise a permanent staining. You can see in the photo the top portion where I tried hitting it with a propane torch, it brings the oils out and darkens it but it's not good enough, and not gonna work on the rubber style coating material lining the fuel tank.
Click to expand...

I don't know if you follow Project Farm on Youtube, but he did a comparison of different bumper products. I'll have to go back and rewatch to see which one held up the best long term, but I know he has that content available.


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## UFG8RMIKE

When you have no lawn to cut.


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## UFG8RMIKE

A little never dull did wonders on the hydraulic motors and the radiator.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Finally starting to get parts back from powdercoating. Man that took forever but everything looks perfect now. Can't wait to start getting things put back together.


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## AFBiker2011

@UFG8RMIKE, I just read through your restoration project. You're doing a great job. I like the _lighter_ green color you choose. It is close enough to JD green, but still different enough for people to do a double take when they see it.

I've got your thread subscribed now, looking forward to your progress. Good luck to you on the reassembly, sir!


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## UFG8RMIKE

AFBiker2011 said:


> @UFG8RMIKE, I just read through your restoration project. You're doing a great job. I like the _lighter_ green color you choose. It is close enough to JD green, but still different enough for people to do a double take when they see it.
> 
> I've got your thread subscribed now, looking forward to your progress. Good luck to you on the reassembly, sir!


Thanks man, I actually ended up going with JD green. I had no choice in the matter since the replacement grass shields and the spray paint for the body are already JD green. The prismatic powders Farm Green and Electric Yellow are perfect matches for the newer JD factory paint. The lighting in the photo is just a bit off, and I also believe the original Green Darkens over time with oxidation or exposure to UV.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Got the engine cowling back from the paint shop. Perfect match to the powdercoating

Just need to find some new decals. This is proving to be tough.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Green Powdercoated parts. Better than new. Man she's gonna look good.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Ohh yea, gold powder coated reels! Wait till these babies get sharpened.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Just got the rims back from powder coating as well. New tires going on tomorrow.


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## MrMeaner

Wow....love all the pics and fantastic job you have done!! It's gonna look better than new!!


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## Bmossin

those reels are awesome!


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## UFG8RMIKE

Sandblasted and black oxide treated parts. Rear hub assembly with fresh seals and bearings. Black oxide parts got a good soaking with Woolwax. I also attempted to season them like cast iron afterwards at 350 for an hour in the oven but that was halted quickly by the wife when the house filled with smoke, Haaa. They came out better than expected. Guess we'll see how long black oxide lasts.


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## paulwrunge

Looking good. I wanted to get some seat sliders for my rebuild but will probably just solid mount the seat


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## BGreensmower

Hi this has been great reading/viewing seeing the JD2500A getting restored.
I'm picking one up this weekend, would love to see more pics of where this is up to!
Keep up the great work!


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## UFG8RMIKE

Literally found the last control center decal in existence. The gauge cluster looks like hell but it functions and lights up. Just not worth 250 bucks to replace, but easy to do if necessary down the road.


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## UFG8RMIKE

BGreensmower said:


> Hi this has been great reading/viewing seeing the JD2500A getting restored.
> I'm picking one up this weekend, would love to see more pics of where this is up to!
> Keep up the great work!


Thx man, work has been slow. The mower is at our Vacation home which is always rented. So progress has been very slow. New home is still under construction and it'll be awhile till it's level enough to cut with this beast, so I haven't been in any rush.

.


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## typed by ben

Respect for taking this project on. Have enjoyed the thread so far


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## UFG8RMIKE

Ready to roll with assembly. I was finally able to find a bud with a sandblasting hood for the hardware. The process is a PITA, next time I think I'll just order all new hardware. At least for the non specialty stuff like M10x65mm, etc.

Keeping it all separated and labeled took 3x as long since it all needed done in separate batches. Cutting units will go together 1st. Hardware sitting in the bags with a few shots of woolwax, for extra rust prevention while waiting for assembly.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Coming along. Couldn't bring myself to trust the black oxide as rust prevention on the more difficult to replace hardware, so I started ordering stainless on most of the non specialty stuff. Still waiting on the stainless set screws, otherwise I would have put the rollers on. New high cut bed knives installed. Don't forget the permatex anti-sieze.


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## robbybobby

almost too clean to use after this. Such a cool resto


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## Ware

I love checking in on this thread!


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## UFG8RMIKE

robbybobby said:


> almost too clean to use after this. Such a cool resto


I know, lol. That's gonna be the hard part.


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## paulwrunge

Looking good. Hardware is kicking my butt on my resto as well. Trying to zinc plate and black chromate but there's a little bit of a learning curve to it. I think I'm the future I'll find a coating shop for hardware. The specialty hardware, at least on the toros is expensive. I locally sourced everything that wasn't specialty.


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## UFG8RMIKE

paulwrunge said:


> Looking good. Hardware is kicking my butt on my resto as well. Trying to zinc plate and black chromate but there's a little bit of a learning curve to it. I think I'm the future I'll find a coating shop for hardware. The specialty hardware, at least on the toros is expensive. I locally sourced everything that wasn't specialty.


Ya, doing it over, only specialty hardware would get yellow chromate coated, the rest is way easier to just go with 304 stainless. The amt of time sandblasting and coating non specialty parts just isn't worth it. John Deere is proud of their hardware, so buying new is crazy.

.


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## bernstem

Looking great. The gold reels are money!


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## UFG8RMIKE

Rollers installed. Cutting units good to go. Just need a good relief grind and to throw the bed knives on and mate them afterwards.


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## Ware

Keep the pictures coming.


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## Wiley

Spectacular job!


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## UFG8RMIKE

Custom SeaDek padding for the seat deck and foot rest. This job would be done if I only had the mower in my garage to work on. Not much left to do except for final assembly. The one nice thing about the JD triplex is that the machine and the cutting units are pretty straight forward and simple to work on.


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## jimbeckel

Your work is impeccable


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## UFG8RMIKE

She's almost done


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## UFG8RMIKE

....


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## UFG8RMIKE




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## sangheili

UFG8RMIKE said:


>


F--ing incredible. It looks 100% OEM (better tho obviously).

:beer:


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## UFG8RMIKE

JD sure has a jacked up steering wheel tilt release mechanism. Getting the steering wheel cover on and tilt mechanism installed is a PITA.

I hit the boot and other plastic pieces with a heat gun and it brought the color back nicely. This is without any glaze or products.


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## lbb091919

It seriously looks brand new. Nice work and can't wait to see the finished product.


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## UFG8RMIKE

M8 1.25 x 1/2" threaded inserts to fit the new lights.


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## latitude36

I have a 2500a with low hours that has been stored under roof since new. This is an amazing project you have undertaken. There are two things I would change on mine--go to 7/8 blade reels and the new reel to bedknife adjusting system like Toro's. How hard is it to take the reel cylinder off to swap off with one from R/R--7 blade. I asked the local JD dealership and they had no idea of the cost to do so. I am mechanical illiterate.

The first thing I did to mine was to update the lights to LED.


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## UFG8RMIKE

latitude36 said:


> I have a 2500a with low hours that has been stored under roof since new. This is an amazing project you have undertaken. There are two things I would change on mine--go to 7/8 blade reels and the new reel to bedknife adjusting system like Toro's. How hard is it to take the reel cylinder off to swap off with one from R/R--7 blade. I asked the local JD dealership and they had no idea of the cost to do so. I am mechanical illiterate.
> 
> The first thing I did to mine was to update the lights to LED.


This is honestly my 1st attempt with anything of this sort. The JD is pretty simple to work on. Changing the reels isn't difficult. Just drop the bed knife by removing the tension springs and removing the bed bar bolts. Then, there's only 3 bolts on each side holding the bearing units on. There's 3 brass pins that help them line up correctly so some gentle prying may be required. There's a spring (I believe on the splined side of the reel shaft to watch out for. Other than that your good to go to reverse order the new reel install.

Might as well change the bearings at this time as well. Just pop off the old seals and install new ones with a hammer and piece of wood. I used a hammer and large socket the same diameter as the outside of the bearing seal to tap it in.

Regarding new bed knife adjusting system you mentioned, is that an upgrade that's available on these reels? I'm aware of the QA5 units with this feature, but not sure if these can be adapted.

.


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## latitude36

Local dealership is telling me "no" on the QA5 upgrade but to be frank they are not a turf dealership. They were going to send there turf rep by to confirm but never heard from him. I have to pull the cutting units off the arms turn up right then make the adjustments for reel to bedknife contact. Very rarely do I get that magic amount of contact where its just a light click noise while mowing however; I have a toro 1600 that adjusts in less than a minute. It's hard to believe JD took so long to move to another adjusting system considering Toro's was years ahead of them in that area.

I will switch reels out during the off season. Should have done it this past year but waited too long. I wonder if new reels need a grind or if a back lap will do.

Best of luck with the project--look forward to seeing the end result.


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## MasterMech

latitude36 said:


> Local dealership is telling me "no" on the QA5 upgrade but to be frank they are not a turf dealership. They were going to send there turf rep by to confirm but never heard from him. I have to pull the cutting units off the arms turn up right then make the adjustments for reel to bedknife contact. Very rarely do I get that magic amount of contact where its just a light click noise while mowing however; I have a toro 1600 that adjusts in less than a minute. It's hard to believe JD took so long to move to another adjusting system considering Toro's was years ahead of them in that area.
> 
> I will switch reels out during the off season. Should have done it this past year but waited too long. I wonder if new reels need a grind or if a back lap will do.
> 
> Best of luck with the project--look forward to seeing the end result.


In recent decades, Toro's have generally been more mechanic/operator friendly than the other brands. That's a big reason why they are so popular on golf courses these days. They cut good sure, but Jake had been delivering elite cut quality for decades. Deere is a relative newcomer to the pro turf equipment space, and their early efforts were sub-par vs the competition. But they are an engineering and logistics juggernaut and have caught up fast.


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## latitude36

MasterMech said:


> latitude36 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Local dealership is telling me "no" on the QA5 upgrade but to be frank they are not a turf dealership. They were going to send there turf rep by to confirm but never heard from him. I have to pull the cutting units off the arms turn up right then make the adjustments for reel to bedknife contact. Very rarely do I get that magic amount of contact where its just a light click noise while mowing however; I have a toro 1600 that adjusts in less than a minute. It's hard to believe JD took so long to move to another adjusting system considering Toro's was years ahead of them in that area.
> 
> I will switch reels out during the off season. Should have done it this past year but waited too long. I wonder if new reels need a grind or if a back lap will do.
> 
> Best of luck with the project--look forward to seeing the end result.
> 
> 
> 
> In recent decades, Toro's have generally been more mechanic/operator friendly than the other brands. That's a big reason why they are so popular on golf courses these days. They cut good sure, but Jake had been delivering elite cut quality for decades. Deere is a relative newcomer to the pro turf equipment space, and their early efforts were sub-par vs the competition. But they are an engineering and logistics juggernaut and have caught up fast.
Click to expand...

I have been considering buying a 26" cut jacobson because the price is significantly less than a toro--I keep wondering why the jakes are so discounted as compared to a toro.


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## MasterMech

latitude36 said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> latitude36 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Local dealership is telling me "no" on the QA5 upgrade but to be frank they are not a turf dealership. They were going to send there turf rep by to confirm but never heard from him. I have to pull the cutting units off the arms turn up right then make the adjustments for reel to bedknife contact. Very rarely do I get that magic amount of contact where its just a light click noise while mowing however; I have a toro 1600 that adjusts in less than a minute. It's hard to believe JD took so long to move to another adjusting system considering Toro's was years ahead of them in that area.
> 
> I will switch reels out during the off season. Should have done it this past year but waited too long. I wonder if new reels need a grind or if a back lap will do.
> 
> Best of luck with the project--look forward to seeing the end result.
> 
> 
> 
> In recent decades, Toro's have generally been more mechanic/operator friendly than the other brands. That's a big reason why they are so popular on golf courses these days. They cut good sure, but Jake had been delivering elite cut quality for decades. Deere is a relative newcomer to the pro turf equipment space, and their early efforts were sub-par vs the competition. But they are an engineering and logistics juggernaut and have caught up fast.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have been considering buying a 26" cut jacobson because the price is significantly less than a toro--I keep wondering why the jakes are so discounted as compared to a toro.
Click to expand...

Because - internet. :lol: There is also the brand recognition factor - Everybody has heard of Toro and John Deere. Who's heard of Jacobsen, Baroness, Dennis, etc. ?

Jake's get a bad rap as being high-maintenance, expensive parts, fragile, etc. Most of which is pretty much the result of an unwillingness to apply a little more attention to detail. Toyota's are easier to maintain than BMW's after all. SOME of their riding units are sub-par (as traction units, the cutting units are just fine) compared to the competition but the PGM and GK500 series walk-mowers were the standard others were judged by for quite awhile. Thanks to R&R, the GreensKing 500 series has pretty awesome parts availability and even some improvements on OEM parts. You can look up and order Jake parts directly from Jake too but them moving operations to the UK and the current supply chain SNAFU has resulted in some parts being temporarily unavailable if an R&R equivalent isn't available.


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## UFG8RMIKE

After dissembling and reassembling this unit and seeing restorations on similar toro units, I wouldn't agree that toro is more mechanic friendly. It appears to me to be the opposite. I'll give it more user friendly on the reel adjustment for non QA5 reels tho.

I'm not 100%, but I was lead to believe the QA5's are an easy swap. Albeit, and expensive one. Only difference I see on the mower is a different stop bracket


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## latitude36

UFG8RMIKE said:


> After dissembling and reassembling this unit and seeing restorations on similar toro units, I wouldn't agree that toro is more mechanic friendly. It appears to me to be the opposite. I'll give it more user friendly on the reel adjustment for non QA5 reels tho.
> 
> I'm not 100%, but I was lead to believe the QA5's are an easy swap. Albeit, and expensive one. Only difference I see on the mower is a different stop bracket


If I remember correctly the QA's are a easy swap but the price was $$$$$. After seeing the comments about a Jake I inquired on this one with Prairie Turf Equipment and it has a similar reel to bedknife adjustment as the older John Deer's--strange considering this is a 2015 model.
2015 Jacobsen Greens King 526A Walk-Behind Reel Mower with 7-Blade Reel, 26 Inch Width
US: $2,595.00


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## bmadams

UFG8RMIKE said:


> Picked up a screaming deal on a 2500A w 2500 hours on the clock. She runs and operates perfectly. Hydraulics are good and the engine starts and runs super smooth. The cutting units could use some refurbishing but the reels themselves look nearly new, with 0 rust. I got a set of verticutter units and another 2500A parts machine to boot. (with a running engine). Wasn't exactly what I was looking for but I couldn't pass it up for $1,000 bucks.
> 
> We are breaking ground on a new home, and have a year till it will be done, so I plan to do the refurb in stages over the next year and will be using this thread to document the process.


This is awesome! Thanks for sharing will follow along. I bid on a JD 2500 last year and somehow won it for $825. It works great for the most part replaced the fuel line and bed knifes, need to have the engine tuned up. Plan on doing some TLC to it as well at some point.


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## UFG8RMIKE

Nice, that's a steal. Mine is almost done. It sat so long during the reno, that either the carb solenoid, or the float stuck open and dumped fuel into the cylinder. 
I drained the fuel and ordered a new carb. I attempted to install it this past weekend and noticed the bottom butterfly sticking due to poor machining. A replacement is on the way now.

I picked up a new relay and rewired the light wiring harness today to get the LED's working.

Soon as the new carb is installed, I'll change fluids and get the reels sharpened and she'll be good to go.

Other than the hydraulic system. I've realy gotten to know this machine pretty well. Moreso than any other machine I've ever owned that's for sure.

Next up, cleaning up the verticutter units and learning to rebuild the 2nd set of hydraulic motors.

.


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## Chadwicktr

Wow. The attention to detail here is incredible. Can't wait to see more.


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## STI_MECE

Have you gone through the maintenance on the engine? Have you been able to check the compression on it?


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## UFG8RMIKE

STI_MECE said:


> Have you gone through the maintenance on the engine? Have you been able to check the compression on it?


‘Engine runs super smooth, she got a new carb and fluid change but that’s it. I’d check compression but don’t have the tool. 620FD rebuilt engine can be found on CL for $1250 if ever needed.









Exchange(NEED CORE) Remanufactured Kawasaki MULE 3010 KAF620 FD620D Engine Motor 699927967963 | eBay


This is a remanufactured long block. All parts are inspected and brought to factory specs. All valves, guides and seats are checked and replaced if needed. Our rebuilt engines include new piston rings, new gaskets and seals, new timing belt (where applicable), water pump seal kit, new oil...



www.ebay.com





Still haven’t been able to cut with it. The new home build turned into a nightmare going on two years now and still not done.



.


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