# Fertilizing a Newly Renovated Lawn



## monty (Jul 25, 2017)

Hello team!

I wanted to start a thread to get everyone's opinions on fertilizing a newly renovated lawn. I have read different recommendations for timing and amounts in different threads on this site and other sites. What are your thoughts on these:

Fall

When to start? First mow? Second mow? Other?

How much?

How frequent?

Slow release vs fast release?

Spring

When to start?

How much?

How frequent?

Slow release vs fast release?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Four to six weeks after germination per: https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/AY/AY-3-W.pdf


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

monty said:


> Hello team!
> 
> I wanted to start a thread to get everyone's opinions on fertilizing a newly renovated lawn. I have read different recommendations for timing and amounts in different threads on this site and other sites. What are your thoughts on these:
> 
> ...


I'll share my notes from my last reno (Blueberry Monostand)

*Fall*
8/27 - Seed down!
9/1 - Green babies
9/11 - Urea .33lbs/k
9/17 - Urea .33lbs/k --- Day 21
9/21 - Oceangro (1 bag)
9/24 - First cut @1.5". Oceangro (1 bag)
9/25 - Urea .5lbs/k. Cut @1.5"
9/27 - Cut @ 1.5"
10/1 - Cut @1.5"
10/2 - Urea 1lbs/k
10/3 - Tenacity
10/4 - Cut @1.5"
10/7 - Cut @1.5". Urea 1lbs/k --- Day 42
10/12 - Cut @1.5". Urea 1lbs/k
10/16 - Mowed @2.5". Mag-I-Cal @9lbs/k
10/17 - Bayer 24 Hour Grub Killer Plus
10/21 - Mowed @2.5"
10/29 - Mowed @2.5". Sprayed Prodiamine.
11/13 - Mowed @2.5"
11/19 - Mowed @2.5"
11/27 - Mowed @2.5"
12/3 - Mowed @2.5" - Top growth stopped
12/4 - Urea 2lbs/k

For *Spring*, I was aggressive but did mostly slow release fertilizer. I started applying fertilizer after the grass was fully awake (for my location I did my first app 5/7). I was then putting down fert every 2 weeks. But, was also using PGR to help regulate spring flush. Summer time, I switch to once a month.

Last two weeks I've switch to fast release, I've already put down 2 apps of Urea (@1lb/k).

:bandit:


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## Sinclair (Jul 25, 2017)

ericgautier said:


> I'll share my notes from my last reno (Blueberry Monostand)
> 
> *Fall*
> 8/27 - Seed down!
> ...


My seed down date was Aug 26, and I've had excellent germination success.

I was going to wait until the end of September for the first application of Urea, but now....I think I know what I'm doing this weekend. :thumbup:


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## Roosterchest (Aug 3, 2017)

ericgautier said:


> Last two weeks I've switch to fast release, I've already put down 2 apps of Urea (@1lb/k).


Eric, when you're quoting Urea apps, are you stating it in "lbs of N" per 1,000 or "lbs of Urea" per 1,000?


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

Roosterchest said:


> Eric, when you're quoting Urea apps, are you stating it in "lbs of N" per 1,000 or "lbs of Urea" per 1,000?


"lbs of Urea" per 1,000


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## monty (Jul 25, 2017)

ericgautier said:


> *Fall*
> 8/27 - Seed down!
> 9/1 - Green babies
> 9/11 - Urea .33lbs/k


First app 2 weeks after seed down (super small only .15 lb/k N). That is much earlier than I've read from most sources including the Purdue link g-man posted. I'm at two weeks now and I'm not comfortable even walking on it yet.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I think the main issue is not pushing top growth sacrificing root growth. Those first weeks the seed is developing roots, thus I think nitrogen should be kept to a minimum. If you applied some starter fertilizer at seed down, it should still be available 2 weeks after.


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## alpine0000 (Jul 25, 2017)

I usually fertilize every other month starting in March and ending in Nov. I shoot for .75 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 sq ft.

My fertilizer schedule looks like this (I stick with organic, with the exception of my starter fert, although sometimes I use Espoma organic starter fert in place of the Lesco synthetic, depending on how I'm feelin'):

Mar: Lesco Starter fert
May: Milorganite
Jul: Milorganite
Sep: Seed + Lesco Starter fert first week of Sep
Nov: Ringer Lawn Restore II


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

monty said:


> ericgautier said:
> 
> 
> > *Fall*
> ...


Yes, it is not for everyone. I too was afraid of walking on it. :lol: I have no studies to back it up but someone close to my location did it on his renos and I wanted to give it a shot. Those babies are hungry.


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## Fronta1 (Jul 11, 2017)

I'm also a believer in a re up on starter after 2 wks. Starter fertilizer is super fast release and gets washed below the roots quickly. They need the support until they're established.


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## vnephologist (Aug 4, 2017)

It won't be 2 weeks, but since I'm going to be out of town on week 4, I'm planning to start the small N apps on my overseed along with PGR (*gasp*) at the 3 week mark this weekend. As good as the existing stand is starting to look, I'm willing to take the risk with the seedlings I think.


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

Hi, first time posting on this forum for me. I was reading this thread and wanted to chime in. Currently I'm doing a bewitched mono reno on my 3k front and side lawn. I'm About 3 1/2 weeks in. At day 15 and day 22 from seed down I feed the lawn with .25 lb N per k with urea, so just over 1.5 lb urea for the 3k. It seems to of responded well as it is really starting to thickening up. I borrowed this technique from someone else I read about that did it and it worked out well for them. Not saying it's for everyone but it's working out well for me. When I get to about day 30 I'm going to increase to 1 lb per k urea or .46 lb N per k. We'll see how this goes...


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## ericgautier (Apr 22, 2017)

SNOWBOB11 said:


> Hi, first time posting on this forum for me. I was reading this thread and wanted to chime in. Currently I'm doing a bewitched mono reno on my 3k front and side lawn. I'm About 3 1/2 weeks in. At day 15 and day 22 from seed down I feed the lawn with .25 lb N per k with urea, so just over 1.5 lb urea for the 3k. It seems to of responded well as it is really starting to thickening up. I borrowed this technique from someone else I read about that did it and it worked out well for them. Not saying it's for everyone but it's working out well for me. When I get to about day 30 I'm going to increase to 1 lb per k urea or .46 lb N per k. We'll see how this goes...


Welcome to the forum!

Thank you for sharing your experience. :thumbup: :thumbup:


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Allow me to definitively clear this up. 

A couple of premises: There is general agreement on the process of germination. The seed is like an egg, containing the plant embryo and the "yolk" (food source). When the seed is exposed to sufficient moisture at sufficient temperature, enzymes are activated and germination begins. First with the growth of the radical (anchoring root), then the leaf emerges. Then comes "sprout and pout," a period when the seedling grows primary roots to take up water and nutrients to replace the diminishing "yolk" food source. It's also commonly accepted that plants acquire the majority of nutrient from those in soil solution.

As seedling roots are undeveloped and very shallow (top 1" of soil or less), most agronomists suggest that fertilization application (NPK) be made to supply increased amounts of nutrients in soil solution. [A few argue that no fertilization needs to be done (Mother Nature doesn't fertilize) presumably arguing that as the majority of active OM (either already present or from an OM topdressing) is in the top inch of soil, the mineralization of OM will supply the needed nutrients. There is some basis for this argument. In the mineralization of nitrogen, microbiology creates ammonium-N first which is later synthesized into to nitrate-N and some studies have shown that young plants take up and use a much greater percentage of ammonium-N than nitrate-N.] Some recommend that a starter be put down at seeding to avoid damage to the seedlings that might occur to the seedlings if fertilization is done shortly after sprouting. Others argue that a starter added at seeding will have washed/leached out of the top of the soil (seedling root zone) by the time the seedling needs it and that starter should be added later when it's "safe" to walk on the seedlings (after the second mow, or after 6 weeks, etc). Still others suggest that due to leaching (and the possible tie up of P, which can occur within days depending on soil chemistry), "spoon feeding" of fertilizer is the better method to maintain adequate soil solution nutrients.

The choice couldn't be more clear: pick your poison. 

FWIW, I happen to be in ericgautier's camp. I've employed "spoon feeding" with good results, however I've also applied starter at seeding with a follow-up starter after the second mow and I can't say that I've seen any major difference in results.

Welcome to the forums, SNOWBOB11.


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## j4c11 (Apr 30, 2017)

For the reasons mentioned by ridgerunner, I applied poly coated urea at seed down this year. It should provide a trickle of N to feed the grass as it gets watered on a daily basis. I also apply small amounts of TSP every few days.


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## ThickAndGreen (Sep 8, 2017)

What is a good starter fertilizer to use after overseeding?


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## Roosterchest (Aug 3, 2017)

ThickAndGreen said:


> What is a good starter fertilizer to use after overseeding?


I've used Scott's starter and most recently a bag from Ace...I think the ACE was 23-23-3 or something close. Phosphorus helps with the roots and my soil test stated I need P as well. I also applied some Milorganite 17 days after seeding.


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## FuzzeWuzze (Aug 25, 2017)

ThickAndGreen said:


> What is a good starter fertilizer to use after overseeding?


From what I understand any balanced fert. You can find giant bags of 12-12-12 for example in most places. Some states don't let you put down phosphorus though I think


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## ThickAndGreen (Sep 8, 2017)

Thank you for the answers.


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