# Eastern Canada Lawn



## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

Hi,

In need your input on how I could make my lawn great! The main reason to have a great lawn is for my kids and second its for my personal accomplishment. I grow up with a poor lawn at my parents home and younger I always wish to have a great lawn to play on it. My parents were working a lot in the summer and they never had the time and money to make their lawn great.

I have two young kids and I want them to love be in the lawn every day.

I live in Beresford NB Canada and the lawn season is short here. We still have frost at night. I tried so many time to topdress and/or overseed in spring. Last year I just overseed in the fall but I think it was too late. The lawn mixture that I used is about 40% KBG, 40% PRG and 20% TTTF i think. I wish to only have KBG but I read that overseeding only this type is a waste of money. So I will continue with what I already used. My lawn area is around 9000 sqr/ft.

Heres my lawn right now.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/FXvuJymntrtwjcSo2

I ordered Ortho Kilkex to kills weeds and tried to let the existing lawn growing. Im planning to aerate, detach and overseed arround mid august. Not sure if I need to add compost.

Im wondering when I will need to put killex. Right now or only two week before overseeding.

Does just put prodiamine right now will be fine until I overseed?

When overseeding does tenacity at the time of seeding is a good idea?

Of course I will try to build my above the ground sprinkler like Ryan Knorr because my sprinkler is not enough. I just planning to overseed and watering the part at the left of my driveway that is 4500 sqrt/ft for this year. I think using peat moss to protect my freshly spreaded seed.

Im not sure where to start, what to use, when applying products and what the amount of product to use.

Heres my house and lawn.



Of course I live in Canada so products here are restricted and hard to found.

Thank you in advance! :thumbup:


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

Hello and welcome to the forum.

If you haven't already check out g-mans cool season guide thread https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=1595. It has lots of information and help for someone just starting out in lawn care.

A good place to start would be to get a soil test, see what nutrients are lacking in your soil and try and fertilize the lawn accordingly. Do this through the spring and summer in preparation for a late summer (mid August overseed).

You can also spend time identifying and killing weeds in the grass this spring and early summer.

When you're ready to seed make sure whatever variety of seed type you chose you get good quality seed and try and stay away from the cheaper big box store seeds that contain lots of grassy weeds instead of quality turf grass seed. This includes scotts seed.

Tenacity goes down at seed down to prevent weeds from germinating but can also be used as a post emergent after the seed has germinated and established a bit.

After around 6-8 weeks or so from seed down you can apply prodiamine to stop weed seeds from germinating for the next season.

Of course there is also the option of the full nuke and reno with elite KBG but you have by the looks of it a decent size lawn and for someone just starting out it might be best to get the basics down first.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

^ +1

One thing to try is to feed your current lawn. I looks like it could use nitrogen.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

I already read g-mans article and I learn a lot. Im more tier 2 guy for now hehe.

As for local lawn company I only have one. They always told me to put limestone because we have acid soil. I put 4-5 bags of limestone every spring. I never test my soil. What's the cheapest soil test that is most effective?

I also get this chimical lawn fertilizer from this lawn company. I just bought one bag from there and it cover all my lawn.



I also buy my seed from there because its the mixture that I told in my earlier post. I put around 3lbs per 1000 sqr/ft. I will go in Moncton next week and try to stop at a golf course supplier store to see what I can get.

Do you think I should apply Killex when its arrive by mail? And spot spray weed with Scotts wee-b-gon ecosens after until Im ready to do the overseeding process with tenacity?


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

It's not a good idea to just throw down lime every year without knowing if your lawn needs it. I don't know if you have any labs that will test your soil out east. I have labs that will test for me here in S ON but I choose to use logans lab in the states.

As far as the killex and weed b gone. I've never really used them so I can't speak on how good they are. If I was to guess they probably don't do a great job on handling the weeds with the chemicals they contain that are allowed here. If you have a source for tenacity and prodiamine then see if you can get a better weed killer from them. Try and get something with the ai triclopyr. Of cource that might not kill every weed but it will take care of clover and several others. And yes you can spray that this spring.


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

Oh and remember to use a NIS (non-ionic surfactant). It helps the herbicides stick to the weeds.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

SNOWBOB11 said:


> Oh and remember to use a NIS (non-ionic surfactant). It helps the herbicides stick to the weeds.


Does no tear shampoo or dish soap do the job?


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

I found this organic fertilizer on Home Hardware online. I will call my local store to see what's is available here. It could be a milorganite for canadien here. 

25kg 9-2-2 + Iron Natural Lawn Fertilizer


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## Sinclair (Jul 25, 2017)

bobcajun said:


> I found this organic fertilizer on Home Hardware online. I will call my local store to see what's is available here. It could be a milorganite for canadien here.
> 
> 25kg 9-2-2 + Iron Natural Lawn Fertilizer


Hey Bob,

This is what I am using, and I have great results so far.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

Glad to hear this! I will give it a try then. 

What the best time to apply this type of fertilizer?


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## Sinclair (Jul 25, 2017)

bobcajun said:


> What the best time to apply this type of fertilizer?


As soon as you get it, and often. :thumbup:

I've been applying 2lbs per 1000sf weekly, which works out to 0.18lb N per week, and ~0.80lb N per month.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

Cool! I will try this year if the money is not an issue.

I also found a place to do my soil analysis in PEI. Does the *S1 - Standard Field Soil* will be fine?

PEI Analytical Laboratories - Soil Analysis Fee Schedule


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

S2 will be better.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

I just received my Ortho Killex and I'm trying to found out the best way to apply it. Using a hose-end sprayer or a 4 gallon backpack sprayer? I don't own any of those.

The instruction said to put 6ml into 1L to cover 50sqf. I have 9 000sqf of turf to cover. A 4 gallon backpack sprayer have 15L of liquid so this means that a full spayer cover only 750sqf. So I need to fill up 12 times the 4 gallon spayer. It's should be easier to buy a hose-end sprayer for this time because I have a lot of weeds in the lawn. Can I add surfactant in a hose-end sprayer?

What's you opinion on this?


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

In general a tank sprayer is better for applying herbicides than a hose end sprayer IMO. Unless it specifically says on the label to use a hose end sprayer I'd use the backpack.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

SNOWBOB11 said:


> In general a tank sprayer is better for applying herbicides than a hose end sprayer IMO. Unless it specifically says on the label to use a hose end sprayer I'd use the backpack.


You were right for the spraying technic. Next time I will use a backpack sprayer 4 gallon. I tried a Chapin hose end sprayer on my backyard first and I think the ratio was way off. I put the sprayer from 6 to 3 after with the amount of 6ml for 50 sqrf and the coverage was better. So definitly the sprayer is the way to go. I wish I did not mess my lawn.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

SNOWBOB11 said:


> As far as the killex and weed b gone. I've never really used them so I can't speak on how good they are. If I was to guess they probably don't do a great job on handling the weeds with the chemicals they contain that are allowed here.


lol you Eastcoasters that don't know Killex. Killex is awesome. It's 2,4-D with mecoprop and dicamba. Basically the base of the triangle approach and knocks out most broadleaf weeds. Weed b gone sucks and it's what you guys have in ON because you can't have Killex. Weed b gone is just iron basically.

I wouldn't use Tenacity as a first line of attack. That's pretty expensive and specialized herbicide.

OP - google "Triangle Approach to killing weeds" and follow that. Learn some basics to lawn care - proper watering, mowing and fertilizing and see where the lawn is at at the end of the season. No offense, but I can tell you're new and a reno/overseed is probably too much to take on at this point. I recommend getting some experience and learning all the basics first.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

llO0DQLE said:


> SNOWBOB11 said:
> 
> 
> > As far as the killex and weed b gone. I've never really used them so I can't speak on how good they are. If I was to guess they probably don't do a great job on handling the weeds with the chemicals they contain that are allowed here.
> ...


So yeah, I read about the triangle approach and it's make sense. So I put down killex more than two weeks ago and didn't mess my turf and no dandelion on my lawn for now. It didn't kill all the weeds so I'm considering oredring another bottle to do a second application. My neigbors are full of dandelion and it's sucks for me because I need to put more effort each year to get rid of if. One other type of weed that I have is similar of a wild strawberry plant but they dont have any fruit on it and the leaves are bigger. Don't know if a second application of Killex would help. When you think I should apply a second application, ASAP or in the fall?

I also applied a 25kg of organic fertilizer in mid-june that I bought from a local Home Hardware. I have a second bag and I'm planning to put it in mid-august because I want to apply a bag of fert. from my local lawn care company in mid-july.

I also received my 3 Hunter sprinklers with MP3000-360 - Hunter MP Rotator 22-30 ft. radius - 360 Degrees nozzle from Irrigation Direct Canada, and I did a setup like Ryan Knorr. The sprinkler have a very good spray pattern and it's far better than my pulsating one. The only problem is when I put them in series. I don't have enough water flow, so the coverage decrease drasticly, but only one sprinkler is great. So for now I go and move the sprinkler each hour to cover my lawn. I will buy a 3 or 4 zone water timer programmable to plug them and irrigate a part of my lawn when i'm at work.

So here's my next planning:

second application of Killex (maybe)

mid-july fert.

first weekend of august 
mow shorter (around 2 inches, currently 4)
areation
detach (maybe)
overseed 3lbs/sqf (***, PRG, Creeping Red Fescue)
add peat moss (area more prone to dry)
apply starter fert.


mid-august - apply organic fert.

continuous watering


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

What is the active ingredient in the Killex product?

I think you could run 2 of the MP rotators in series. The MP3000-360 have a 3.64GPM each. Two might be ok on a hose, but 3 will be too much.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

Composition and Ingredient Information


2,4-D
Mecoprop-p
Dicamba

Killex_Lawn_Weed_Control_Concentrate

As for the sprinklers, 2 is OK. The second sprinkler coverage is not good as the first. 3 sprinklers is too much.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I dont think those will help with the strawberry looking weed. Is it this one: https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/weeds-in-turf/indian-mock-strawberry/ ?

Can you get triclopyr north of the border?


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

Indian Mock Strawberry seems to be the weed that I have. Thanks for the information.

Unfortunately, I cannot have of the shelf good herbicide here. I think I could order Triclopyr from seedworldusa.com. Is this a selective herbicide?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

It is and it help with the level 2 type of weed. The link I share does not list triclopyr as a herbicide. It list Tenacity (mesotrione). I dont have experience with this weed, so I cant help other than sharing the link. I dont know if you could control via hand pulling.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

You can't pull the strawberry type weed? If not, try Killex again. Some weeds may take 2-3 apps. Space apps 2 weeks apart. If it still survives, paint it witj Round Up.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

Yeah, I will try a second application of Killex. If no result then Roundup.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

Here's an update on my lawn.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/cr7L7Ju9JKAaXuN26


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I had a hard time being able to hear the video. What have you done since the last update? The video showed a lot of weeds.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

I did nothing because july was so hot and dry. I watered as much as I can. I applied fert just after the heat came down a bit and it started raining again. So I will give another application of killex with a pump sprayer to try to kill at my best the wild strawberry and the other two types of weed before areate, detach and overseed on labor day weekend. I will also apply lime because i think that wild strawberry spreaded because of the soil ph. In think my blanket application on my back yard killed also the lawn the first time because I tried there first to calibrate the on hose sprayer.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

Im a little bit anxious but I want to give a try to roundup where the weeds are very active. I think killex its not the solution for my lawn for now. I dont want to loose more money on trying and trying. I want results fast to have a fearly easy lawn to maintenained. What's your tough?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Your lawn looks rough, so it sounds like a good idea. But make sure you have agreement from the wife that you will kill the lawn (reno) and start over from seed. If it fails, you will need sod or seeds in the spring (way harder than the fall).


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

Is it ok to just glyphosate weeds infested area only and leaving established lawn at is or do a full reno by killing everything? Money is my big concern in any step I do. I want a good success and not to waste time/money. This is my wife only concern. lol


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

That would be ok. The only issue is that you might have a mismatch of colors in the lawn (new vs old).


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

This is not an issue for me. I only want a tall and tick lawn to enjoy it in bare feet. Kids like the area that is established when running on it barefeet.

I read a lot of success topics here and watched a lot of lawn care vids on utube so I need to succeed this year. At least 80-90% success. lol


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

I found a place that will sell me a 55 lbs bag of premium grass seed- $108 and a 25 kg bag of 5-20-20 starter fertilizer -$20, covers 10,000 sqrf.

Here's the seeds info of their supplier:
http://www.speareseeds.ca/turf-mixtures


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Be careful with marketing "premium" terms. Most of the seed blends in the website had Annual Ryegrass. Annual rye is a weed. They also had creeping red fescue. It does great in the shade, but any sun or heat and it goes brown.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

@bobcajun can you please post pics instead of the videos? I think it will make it easier for us. I tried watching the vids but it was glitchy for me.

From what I can see, you have a lot of weeds. Honestly, and this is probably because of the video, it seems like the whole lawn is overrun by weeds. So IMO, you have two options:

1. Try doing The Triangle Approach to control weeds and at the same time do proper lawn maintenance practices to encourage any good grass to grow and thicken up.

2. Use glyphosate to either kill the whole yard and start from scratch (called a "renovation") or like you said, use glyphosate only on the areas with very heavy weed pressure (but essentially you'll still end up doing a renovation on these said areas).

If you want a really nice lawn with almost no, or very minimal weeds, the full renovation is the way to go. From what I can see from your videos, and if I have it my way and that was my lawn, I would just kill it all and do a full renovation as that is the most efficient way to achieve the goal mentioned. However, a full renovation is not something for beginners, in my opinion. You need a lot of knowledge and experience to be able to handle the inevitable issues that come up during a renovation. No offense, but by the looks of your lawn right now, it looks like you need some more experience.

So what to do?

You could do option 2 above, while trying to gain experience and knowledge and if you're not satisfied with the results by the end of next year (I say next year because realistically you don't have much time until our season ends here in Canada), then you could plan to do a renovation by 2020, while learning and reading as much as you can starting now.

That is my advice and is worth how much you paid for it but I think you need to pick 1 of the 2 strategies above, focus on those and then we can guide you as you go along. IMO, it's too late in the season to do a reno for you (if I remember you're in Quebec and I don't think you would be ready with the knowledge anyway even if you applied Glyphosate tomorrow and seeded the next day. Again, no offense, just trying to be clear so that we can have a straightforward plan.

EDIT: Sorry, I see now you're in Beresford, NB (I was in Full Editor mode and I couldn't see your location). I still think there's not enough time for a full reno with a first frost date of Sept. 21-30 (Bathurst).


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

@llO0DQLE, you made a very good point of my situation. I'm not ready for a renovation. I will go with step 1. I already have a bottle of killex that will do the job for this year. I will overseed after with the detaching and th areation. I will choose to reno or not next year. I am a beginner that would love to be an expert. I struggle with the renovation because of the rare good lawn supply where I live and the knowledge. I live in Beresford NB and here the lawn season is short. Seeding in spring is almost a waste of money because heat come fast or we have frost im june. Fall could start at beginning of october so my last time to overseed is labor day. Winter is rough, we got around 4 meters of snow last season. I also dont have any irrigation system to do a good coverage of my 9000 sqrf. I make great progress over the years. I will continue in my best of knowedges. I need next year to put more effort on my soil with soil testing that I lack right now. Maybe I will try to reno part on my lawn like the backyard next year to experiment.

I will keep you updated.

Thanks guys.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

I don't think aeration is necessary and it will probably bring up more weed seeds. I would also reconsider dethatching to see if it's really needed. A lot of people think they have thatch when it isn't actually thatch, or it's not excessive thatch (a certain depth of thatch is normal). I would just mulch mow and use organic amendments and fertilizers like grains (Soy bean meal, alfalfa pellets, corn meal) and it will get rid of your thatch. Weed free compost is good too. If you're not sure if it's weed free, either skip it or use a good preemergent like Prodiamine. If your soil is heavy and compacted I would use liquid aeration products. There are commercial ones and DIY ones. Google BLSC and Kelp Help. It's what I use and it's made my soil better. I don't like overseeding either because it's just as much, or more work than a renovation and the existing grass has different requirements in terms of feeding and watering vs seeding so you end up with a compromise that isn't best for either grass (old vs new). Honestly, I would just try the triangle approach first, make sure your mowing, watering and fertilizing are all on point, give it a year and see where the lawn is at at that point. You have to be diligent and consistent and PATIENT. Also, if you end up renovating, if 9,000 sq ft is overwhelming, you could always break it up into smaller sections and do a multi-year renovation.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

I will post pictures when I come home monday. I always tought that overseeding in fall is the key to a ticken lawn. I watched vids from Ryan Knorr and LCN. They always have success with areation and overseeding. My lawn is not thick everywhere and this year some place that were good have weeds and is way thinner than normal. So last year a put 3lbs per 1k and it seems that I had a good results in some places. The main weeds that took over is wild strawberry. Next step is next week with a limestone application and killex for weeds.

BTW, here's pictures from 1 july. You can see that killex did a good job on dandilions. My neighbor does nothing in their lawn (full weeds).

Heres I scalped the weeds along my driveway and walkway but it came back so here its a job for roundup.




Heres the left side of my lawn where kids are playing. The brown spot is due to my last winter ice rink. Grass did not respond well in spring.







I did not took pictures of the backyard that day

Do you think just overseeding and raking to make good soil contact is a good idea in thinner area? Maybe adding peat moss over it. All this without detach and areation. lol

I have a bag of organic fert but Im not sure when applying it.


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

If you have KBG (you probably do) you don't need to overseed all the time. Just feed it and it will spread. That actually looks pretty decent. I wouldn't reno that, just get the weeds under control and get the lawn to thicken. Killex and Round up are both post emergent herbicides, they don't prevent weeds from coming back up again. If you want to prevent weeds from coming up then use a preemergent like Prodiamine. However you won't be able to seed for a while while pre-m is active. Just so you're aware in case you want to seed those bare areas. Tenacity can be used during seeding and has pre-m qualities against weeds but allows desirable grasses like KBG to sprout. So you can use Tenacity if you seed (recommended).


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

Also, you're doing a fine job in the front. Seems like the really weed infested areas in the previous vids is the back? I probably incorrectly judged your knowledge and experience. But what gives? Why the big difference in results in the front vs back?


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

Most of the weeds are in the backyard and near the kids playset. Lime will help to raise my ph and killex should help with wild strawberry. It's this weed that spreaded this year. I need to nuke them hehe. My neightbor have a tone of them and its hard to get rid of it because of their spreading hability.

I think I fucked up the backyard with killex because it was my test area to calibrate my hose end sprayer. I bought an echo 2 gallon sprayer for my next application.

Today I bought those 2 10lbs bags of PRG. I was watching Ryan video on his overseeding and he used this type of seed with his KBG. Maybe its a mistake or not. I know the strength of the KBG is the spreading but I cannot found any sources here to buy this type only. All that I found is 40% ***, 40% Creepy Red Fescue and 20% PRG. Does PRG mixed with *** is a good combo? I want and truf that is resitance to traffic and can repair themself. I dont like the red fescue but its good for shady area.

I guess the bags that I bought is not wasted.





I will take picture of my current situation when I comeback at home.


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## TheSwede (Jul 10, 2018)

bobcajun said:


> Today I bought those 2 10lbs bags of PRG. I was watching Ryan video on his overseeding and he used this type of seed with his KBG. Maybe its a mistake or not. I know the strength of the KBG is the spreading but I cannot found any sources here to buy this type only. All that I found is 40% ***, 40% Creepy Red Fescue and 20% PRG. Does PRG mixed with *** is a good combo? I want and truf that is resitance to traffic and can repair themself. I dont like the red fescue but its good for shady area.


I am not familiar with the types of PRG you guys have over there, but a least here in Scandinavia pretty much all PRG varieties that has been developed for nordic conditions still suffers considerably (=will have a really hard time surviving) if the winter is rough, compared to our fescues and KBG varieties. I live in hardiness zone 6b and from what I can tell you're in zone 4 (?) which is even harsher conditions. Where I live PRG is mainly used for quick repairs during the summer, and in high wear turfs such as football fields, but then it is always mixed with KBG to cope with the winter damage and then over seeded in the spring(at last our nordic varieties of KBG and fescues suffer much less winter damage than PRG).


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## llO0DQLE (Dec 4, 2017)

bobcajun said:


> Lime will help to raise my ph


Have you done a soil test to confirm you need lime? I'm no soil guru from what I read around in forums, you don't want to just apply lime without a soil test esp as there are 2 different kinds of lime - calcitic and dolomitic - and you don't want to add the wrong one. Aslo, why do you want to raise your pH?



bobcajun said:


> I think I f--- up the backyard with killex because it was my test area to calibrate my hose end sprayer. I bought an echo 2 gallon sprayer for my next application.


Yeah, a hose end sprayer is not a good tool for applying herbicides. Good thing you got the Echo sprayer.



bobcajun said:


> Today I bought those 2 10lbs bags of PRG. I was watching Ryan video on his overseeding and he used this type of seed with his KBG. Maybe its a mistake or not. I know the strength of the KBG is the spreading but I cannot found any sources here to buy this type only. All that I found is 40% ***, 40% Creepy Red Fescue and 20% PRG. Does PRG mixed with *** is a good combo? I want and truf that is resitance to traffic and can repair themself. I dont like the red fescue but its good for shady area.


From what I've read, PRG doesn't handle cold winters well. Have you grown PRG before? I doubt it would survive our winters.

Look into brettyoung.ca for some KBG seed. I don't know if they have a location in NB.

The KBG/CRF/PRG mix is a common mix you see in big box stores. I believe they add the PRG because it sprouts in 3 days and encourages people to buy the seed. IMO, KBG is the best specie for our climate and CRF if you have heavier shade as it is more shade tolerant. They do that mix so that it's more versatile so that people won't call their grass seed junk because most people don't know how to grow grass from seed properly.

Be careful if you're doing your own mix of PRG and KBG. Look into allelopathy. PRG can/will prevent other grasses from establishing but it seems that in lower concentrations it's not much of a problem.

If you want turf that has high traffic tolerance and can repair itself - KBG it is for spreading and the cultivar Bewitched apparently has good traffic tolerance.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

Heres the picture on my lawn after the mowing today. It was overgrowned when I cameback from vacation. I noticed mushroom in some places. I recently dropped my mower from 4.25" to 3.75". I decided to mow at 3.25". I tried that today to dry a bit the soil and I also bagged because maybe I will srpay Killex next thursday. Thunderstorm in forecast for the next two days. I think maybe I have a fungus issue because some place turned thin or yellow. I have two fruit trees in my yard that have fungus problem this year. A small cherry tree and a crabapple. So I think it was a sign to be carefull but I have no experience with fungus and I have no stores here that are selling preventive or treatment product near me.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/3HixvUcmS7cUArun6

I took a soil sample and I will send it to the closest place for analysis.

Now, what's next. I have a bag of organic fert and a bottle of killex. I applied fert high in nitrogen from scott's two weeks ago. I bought two bags from my local walmart.

The bags of PRG that I bought las week have 50% SR PRG. SR stand for self reparing. It has the ability to spread and regenerate.

http://www.speareseeds.ca/shared/media/editor/file/SRPR%20Flyer.pdf


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

I applied my bag of organic fertilizer this morning to give a boost before I spray weeds this week. I also sent my soil sample for analysis.



This bag can be found or ordered at a local Home Hardware near you. It's the only place that I can found organic fert.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

I walked in the lawn today to check the grass blade and I am sure that my lawn have a fungus issue. This explain why some areas are turning brown then die. We have a lot of humidity and rain after our dry July. So all the effort that a out each year does nothing because of the fungus.

I think I will wait for the soil analysis. I don't have any fungicide in hand. Im very confused on what should I do next. Its like trowing my money and effort at the garbage.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

So guys, I found the problem of my lawn. It's chinch bugs! The local lawn care company came amd they found it. They will come to spray soon. I know what to looking for next time.


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## bobcajun (May 23, 2018)

I received my soil analysis report. Here's a topic that I created:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=5492

Also, the local lawn care company came and sprayed insecticide for chinch bugs. It's stopped the infestation and the grass start to be better.


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