# pre-emergent recomendation



## slomo (Jun 22, 2017)

Need something to combat crabgrass, yellow nut sedge, goose grass, dan-d-lions, spurge and clover. What ONE product is a good per-emergent for all these?

slomo


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## dfw_pilot (Jan 28, 2017)

Say with me all together: Prodiamine.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Sedge is tough to control with pre-e herbicides alone because it can spread from the underground nutlets/tubers - versus simply germinating from seed. I also usually get a little spurge each year because it arrives so late in the season, but before my fall pre-e app.


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## BXMurphy (Aug 5, 2017)

Tenacity in the fall - allows for seeding and kills all that PLUS... gets your winter annuals.

Prodiamine in the spring when forsythia blooms at rate to last you until autumn temps get down to mid-70's for a week or two. Rinse, repeat.


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## thegrassfactor (Apr 12, 2017)

Specticle, spring and fall, even has yellow sedgehammer on the label.

Your only other option would be echelon.

If you feel like violating the law, (I would never ever ever do such a thing &#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315;&#129315, oxadiazon, or Ronstar, would serve you well.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

BXMurphy said:


> Tenacity in the fall - allows for seeding and kills all that PLUS... gets your winter annuals...


Easy now - this is the warm season subforum. Tenacity is not safe for use on warm season grasses. :no:


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

Echlon = prodiamine plus sulfentrazone, so keep that in mind if you'd rather just get them separately.

Specticle's label specifies that it only works against annual sedges coming from seed, not tubers, where the Ronstar label doesn't include the same clarification.


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## BXMurphy (Aug 5, 2017)

Ware said:


> Easy now - this is the warm season subforum. Tenacity is not safe for use on warm season grasses. :no:


Yes, you are right. Thanks, Ware. I did not notice that I had stumbled into the warm side.

Warm season lawns seem very difficult to grow and maintain. I think I'll Google me some pictures of southern lawns and prove myself wrong about that, too.


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## Guest (Aug 31, 2017)

Not trying to derail but would ronstar or prodiamine be a better option for long lasting in a home lawn?


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

firefighter11 said:


> Not trying to derail but would ronstar or prodiamine be a better option for long lasting in a home lawn?


Ronstar is expensive and only lasts 2-3 months.

My vote would be prodiamine for most cases. You can change the amount applied to increase the length of coverage, per the label.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Movingshrub said:


> My vote would be prodiamine for most cases. You can change the amount applied to increase the length of coverage, per the label.


+1


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## J_nick (Jan 28, 2017)

BXMurphy said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> > Easy now - this is the warm season subforum. Tenacity is not safe for use on warm season grasses. :no:
> ...


No need for google just check out this thread


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## BXMurphy (Aug 5, 2017)

J_nick said:


> No need for google just check out this thread


Good golly, Miss. Molly! Those are some terrific lawns!! I read the whole thread.

I can't get over how low they are mowing. I had never heard of leveling with sand. It doesn't seem possible! Love the domination shots.  I even like the term "domination line!" Very cool.

Thanks for sharing that! I don't feel so badly for those guys in the heat anymore.


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## Colonel K0rn (Jul 4, 2017)

BXMurphy said:


> J_nick said:
> 
> 
> > No need for google just check out this thread
> ...


I'm gathering that you haven't seen wardconnor's reel mowed KBG lawn being leveled with sand yet either. It's not a trick for just us warm-season grass lovers.





Back to the thread, Echelon looks nice, but man it's SOOPER expensive. I'd rather go with Prodiamine apps.


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## Fronta1 (Jul 11, 2017)

Movingshrub said:


> Ronstar is expensive and only lasts 2-3 months.


Hmm a lot of people seem to think this, maybe it has been in the past but now it's available for $25. http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/qualipro-oxadiazon-50-wsb-p-16659.html


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## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

Fronta1 said:


> Movingshrub said:
> 
> 
> > Ronstar is expensive and only lasts 2-3 months.
> ...


Just be mindful the product linked is not labeled for home lawns.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

I was reading the instructions and it said something about only applying it to DORMANT lawns, which seemed kind of odd to me.


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## Fronta1 (Jul 11, 2017)

Mightyquinn said:


> I was reading the instructions and it said something about only applying it to DORMANT lawns, which seemed kind of odd to me.


The qualipro label doesn't seem to mention it but the ronstar label says you can apply on actively growing turf as long as you water it in


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## Taylor_XMK (Aug 27, 2017)

Fronta1 said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> > I was reading the instructions and it said something about only applying it to DORMANT lawns, which seemed kind of odd to me.
> ...


And definitely, do not mow the day after u apply ronstar, bad burnspots that last all season could occur ... don't ask how I know that


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

Fronta1 said:


> Mightyquinn said:
> 
> 
> > I was reading the instructions and it said something about only applying it to DORMANT lawns, which seemed kind of odd to me.
> ...


Which label were you reading? The ronstar granular, the 50 WSP, or the ronstar Flo liquid?

I thought the granular was the only one that could be applied to non dormant Bermuda, and it still needs to be watered in.


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## Fronta1 (Jul 11, 2017)

Movingshrub said:


> Fronta1 said:
> 
> 
> > Mightyquinn said:
> ...


50 WSP

"... A subsequent application can be
made 4 months after the previous treatment. To avoid injury to the actively growing
turfgrass, irrigate immediately after application..."


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

Fronta1 said:


> Movingshrub said:
> 
> 
> > Fronta1 said:
> ...


Cool. Thanks. Learned something new today.


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## thegrassfactor (Apr 12, 2017)

I use ronstar as a single app on my ball fields in middle to late February. I apply first of October for poa. I get season long control this way with almost zero breakthrough. I also do a blanket application of monument middle to late May. Have sprayed a weed in those fields in 2 years. They were loaded with sedge


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

thegrassfactor said:


> I use ronstar as a single app on my ball fields in middle to late February. I apply first of October for poa. I get season long control this way with almost zero breakthrough. I also do a blanket application of monument middle to late May. Have sprayed a weed in those fields in 2 years. They were loaded with sedge


Why did you opt for ronstar over simazine for poa, especially if you're using monument as well?


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## thegrassfactor (Apr 12, 2017)

Overseed with ryegrass


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

thegrassfactor said:


> Overseed with ryegrass


Makes sense; I don't oversead so it didn't even cross my mind

I called to Bauer product supper to hear directly from the source regarding what version of ronstar be applied to non-dormant turf. Unfortunately, since I am not a licensed applicator they wouldn't even answer my question.

I am confident the granular version can be applied. I am unsure about the liquid carrier versions such as 50WSP and Flo. If anyone with an applicator license wants to call, the number is 800-331-2867.

Furthermore, I wanted info from Bayer whether ronstar's length of effectiveness is based on temperature or just X days since applied. For some reason, I was thinking that ronatar could be applied earlier in February during cold weather, with no negative impact to the length of coverage since the coverage length was driven by microbes can come alive at a certain temp.


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

thegrassfactor said:


> I use ronstar as a single app on my ball fields in middle to late February. I apply first of October for poa. I get season long control this way with almost zero breakthrough. I also do a blanket application of monument middle to late May. Have sprayed a weed in those fields in 2 years. They were loaded with sedge


When using ronstar, are you using the granule version or spraying a liquid?

Also, are the ball fields dormant during that time of year?

Reading the labels, it still looks to me like the wetable powder and liquid concentrate can only be applied on dormant turf, while it appears the granule may be applied on actively growing turf as well.

I'm really trying to figure out - Can I spray using the 50 WSP in February, and then spray again in May while the grass is actively growing?


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

dfw_pilot said:


> Say with me all together: Prodiamine.


This is funny


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

wardconnor said:


> dfw_pilot said:
> 
> 
> > Say with me all together: Prodiamine.
> ...


For established areas, I totally agree. However, I am trying to get this to fill in next growing season and am concerned that prodiamine might impair the roots tacking down as the grass spreads, hence, oxadiazon.


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## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Movingshrub said:


> ... However, I am trying to get this to fill in next growing season...












:lol:


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## wardconnor (Mar 25, 2017)

Movingshrub said:


> For established areas, I totally agree. However, I am trying to get this to fill in next growing season and am concerned that prodiamine might impair the roots tacking down as the grass spreads, hence, oxadiazon.


I really like the look of that grass. Cool color and texture. Nice work there


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## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

Ware said:


> Movingshrub said:
> 
> 
> > ... However, I am trying to get this to fill in next growing season...
> ...


I actually don't think I need to do that. All the sprigs I broadcasted in the center of that area died cause I had bad irrigation coverage. That photo was taken in September. I fixed the coverage in October. So whatever filled in in that area was natural grow in from the edges. I'll try to get a photo next year of the same view. I don't plan to cut down those trees. Only way they are coming down is if they break from a storm or die.


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