# Fungus ID thread



## g-man

Yes, it is that time of year that heat + moisture + some spore = fungus. Getting a proper ID ensures we are using the correct fungicide to treat it instead of wasting money.

Here are some links that help in the ID/treatment options:
http://turfdiseaseid.ncsu.edu/ - This is the main one I use since it helps to narrow it down
https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/
https://turf.purdue.edu/professional.html

But ID is only half the problem. How to treat it is the next step. This fungicide guide has info on each class of fungicide and what they treat. Like antibiotics, it is important to switch types to avoid the turf building resistance.

If you need help, post good pictures with some of the key characteristics. We will try to help, but some times it needs samples sent to a lab for correct id.


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## aug0211

Snow mold?
Photos taken just now at 6:30 AM.

I use a preventative fungicide and have backed off of the N - but was spoon feeding N to try to fill in bare spots in April/May. Obviously no N now... lots of rain lately and areas have been super wet.


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## g-man

Is this only in one spot or all over? What fungicide are you using? I'm not sure what this is. It doesn't look like dollar spot.


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## aug0211

g-man said:


> Is this only in one spot or all over? What fungicide are you using? I'm not sure what this is. It doesn't look like dollar spot.


It is in spots through the lawn. Worst is one corner that gets sun for the first half of the day, with multiple spots about the size of soft balls or soccer balls. Probably 15 spots making up a 20'x20' area.

Then spots throughout the sides and front of the lawn. Ranging from golf ball size circles to soccer ball sized circles. Brown circles, just noticed that white stuff on them in the morning today. Normally it's just brown.

Using Bayer Advanced granules. Last app was last weekend at the curative rate.


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## Turfguy93

aug0211 said:


> Snow mold?
> Photos taken just now at 6:30 AM.
> 
> I use a preventative fungicide and have backed off of the N - but was spoon feeding N to try to fill in bare spots in April/May. Obviously no N now... lots of rain lately and areas have been super wet.


That's dollar spot, dollar spot is going rampant this year


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## aug0211

Turfguy93 said:


> aug0211 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Snow mold?
> Photos taken just now at 6:30 AM.
> 
> I use a preventative fungicide and have backed off of the N - but was spoon feeding N to try to fill in bare spots in April/May. Obviously no N now... lots of rain lately and areas have been super wet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's dollar spot, dollar spot is going rampant this year
Click to expand...

Thanks, turf guy. So maybe backing off the N was a bad idea. Should I pick it up again? I believe dollar spot wants N, but snow mold does not - right? What to do 

Also - I've been using granules. Maybe switch to a liquid for these problem areas? Or are the granules as effective?


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## Turfguy93

It's way too warm for snow mold, I'd give it a shot of quick release nitrogen(.10-.25 lbs N per 1000) but at this point it may not grow out. Maybe hit it with propiconazole


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## aug0211

Turfguy93 said:


> It's way too warm for snow mold, I'd give it a shot of quick release nitrogen(.10-.25 lbs N per 1000) but at this point it may not grow out. Maybe hit it with propiconazole


Thank you!


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## aug0211

Thank you so much! Can't wait to read through that all (as soon as I get the family home from the parade). So anxious to treat this.


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## g-man

@aug0211 and @Turfguy93 I move the fungus into its own thread. I also posted some links to help with id


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## Cincinnati guy

I know it's not in my grass but what is it? Should I be concerned?


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## pennstater2005

Not sure what it is. But it's been hot, wet, and humid. I'm getting mushrooms in some of my big clay flower pots. I just remove them.

I wouldn't worry too much.


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## g-man

@Cincinnati guy @pennstater2005 that looks like dog barf fungus.


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## pennstater2005

Good call. I've seen someone else post that before. Dog vomit fungus is generally harmless and you can just carefully remove it from your mulch and flowers. Then just rinse the plants off.


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## Green

Took these a half hour ago or so.

First is the overall discolored area. Second is a closer shot, and the third is the blades. Bottom blade I'd say is definitely brown patch, but what about the other? Note the colors of the lawn aren't accurate, but the level of discoloration is.

Edit: Maybe the photo order got changed when the post was moved, or I messed up on the order, but you get the point.


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## g-man

@Green I moved your post here to keep the fungus Id in one spot.

The blade in the top image looks like the hourglass from Dollar spot. But the image of the area does not. I also don't see the smoke ring of brown patch. Therefore I'm not sure.


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## Green

g-man said:


> @Green I moved your post here to keep the fungus Id in one spot.
> 
> The blade in the top image looks like the hourglass from Dollar spot. But the image of the area does not. I also don't see the smoke ring of brown patch. Therefore I'm not sure.


It does. But at the same time, the lesion border on the bottom blade looks like the border on brown patch. And those lesions on the top blade...I'm not sure what they are.

The overall view may be complicated by browning from heat stress.


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## social port

Green said:


> The overall view may be complicated by browning from heat stress.


That is what occurred to me as well. 
I'm inclined to see a very small brown patch on the top blade as well, to the left of the tear in the blade.
Also, has it been cloudy there?


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## Green

social port said:


> Green said:
> 
> 
> 
> The overall view may be complicated by browning from heat stress.
> 
> 
> 
> That is what occurred to me as well.
> I'm inclined to see a very small brown patch on the top blade as well, to the left of the tear in the blade.
> Also, has it been cloudy there?
Click to expand...

Agreed. And no, it's been mostly sunny the past week...why? Again, the color in the 2nd photo is not accurate, due to sunset.


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## social port

Green said:


> social port said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Green said:
> 
> 
> 
> The overall view may be complicated by browning from heat stress.
> 
> 
> 
> That is what occurred to me as well.
> I'm inclined to see a very small brown patch on the top blade as well, to the left of the tear in the blade.
> Also, has it been cloudy there?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Agreed. And no, it's been mostly sunny the past week...why? Again, the color in the 2nd photo is not accurate, due to sunset.
Click to expand...

Since g-man wasn't sure re dollar spot, I was considering net blotch as a possible alternative; brown patch + net blotch. However, from what I understand, net blotch doesn't like the sunlight, so it may not be the best candidate given your recent sunny days.


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## Levif

Anyone know what this is? All over the yard none on the grass blades applied axozystrobin on the 5th put down .10lb n on the 29th of June


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## g-man

Only on the soil? No issues with the grass itself? Have you recently applied Milorganite?


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## iowa jim

I am still a rookie at lawn care but it looks like mycelium to me. Its very noticeable in the early morning dew,that looks almost like cobwebs. I hope this helps.


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## Levif

g-man said:


> Only on the soil? No issues with the grass itself? Have you recently applied Milorganite?


Correct only on soil, I have noticed some lesions on grass but not sure it's related. Yep only applied milorgranite recently put humid acid down aswell


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## g-man

It could be mycelium from the Milorganite


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## Bkell101

Cool season lawn what is this?


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## g-man

It looks like Dog Barf Fungus.


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## Bkell101

g-man said:


> It looks like Dog Barf Fungus.


Sign of a soil or watering problem? 
Anything to do about it?


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## g-man

Dog Barf Fungus is harmless.

I'm moving this to the Fungus ID thread. There are other pictures of dog Barf Fungus there.


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## Killsocket

I'm back:
Mowing at 4.25". Irregular water schedule, trying to depend on mother nature but am supplimenting. 
I am seeing brown blades of grass. Curious if it is a fungus, some sort of stress or bad luck. 
Nothing on lawn since July 5. A string of hot and humid the last week or so. 
Fought with Powdery Mildew and Leaf Spot in late June with apps of Eagle 20 and Disease Ex per labels at curative rates.
Random in parts of yard. Not necessarily in spots like below but random blades interspersed with green ones without a spot.


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## SpiveyJr

I have similar spots like you Killsocket. I thought it might be insects in the soil but I'm not certain it's that or fungus.


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## Suburban Jungle Life

@Killsocket Can you take a closeup of the blades?


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## Killsocket

I hope this helps.


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## NoslracNevok

I'm thinking this is leaf spot or brown patch, anyone know?


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## Suburban Jungle Life

Hmm. Time to get a microscope?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pn-qJk58CMU


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## Mozart

Any idea what this is?



I also have some of the same forming around my forsythia trunks:


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## g-man

Looks like dog barf fungus.


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## Doug E Dee

Hey guys, This fungus is on a newly seeded area of TTTF, a couple weeks post germination. I had the same fungus spots about a week ago and hit it with prop and that seemed to cure it. Well, it's back. What's in the pic appeared overnight.
Any suggestions? Thanks!


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## g-man

@Doug E Dee I moved this here. It looks like pythium blight. Treat it asap since it spreads fast.

More info here: http://turfdiseaseid.ncsu.edu/diseasedetail.aspx?disease=PYTAP


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## Doug E Dee

Thanks g-man, just ran down to Lowes for a bag of Disease-ex, applied at curative rate and watered it in. That's the best I could do because I only have propiconazole and a little Eagle left in my inventory (neither of which seem to be labeled for pythium). I really should spring for a bottle of azoxy to have on hand.


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## canyoncove

I wish there was a guide to help with what fungus(s) my lawn actually has. I've tried starting a thread about getting help on which fungus I have but very surprisingly got no answers.


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## Avalawn T

I have damping off pretty bad especially around the edges of my yard. It's my fault for heavy seeding in those areas. I'm on my second round of Scott's Xs and the weather here in Nashville is finally going to cool down after 3 or 4 days of rain. I've pulled out all the dead grass and seeded those spots. I'm just praying the cooler weather will save my new renovation. Any advice would be helpful. Thanks all.


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## g-man

@canyoncove There are 29 post on your thread around fungus on bermuda. I dont think the cool season guys could help with bermuda. Bermuda normally bounces back if you follow good cultural practices (water in the am, good fertilizer, etc).

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5555


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## g-man

@Avalawn T My main advice is to reduce the watering and start mowing the lawn. It looks too long. Keep it at 2in until it matures. It should help with airflow/drying.


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## Avalawn T

Thanks for the reply, will do. It's been mowed 3 times now at 3.5 inches.


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## canyoncove

@g-man Thanks for the heads up.. I didn't even realize I was in the cool season grass forum.

This was my original post.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5555


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## Alex1389

In July, my lawn looked the best it has ever looked. Then August came with it's weird temperature swings and never-ending rain. I ended up with several areas of light green/lime green grass. I figured I might have been a little too late on pre-m and brushed it off as Poa A or Poa T. Now I'm starting to wonder if I'm dealing with some sort of disease instead. I took a closer look at the grass and did notice some lesions on the areas that were lime green. Any thoughts on this?

I was thinking of hitting the lawn with a blanket spray of a Propiconazole/Azoxy tank mix.


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## g-man

I don't see signs of fungus in these images. Maybe it was there and now it is gone. It looks like the thin stuff suffered more than the regular width leaves blades.


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## Alex1389

@g-man I'm at a loss then on what's going on in these areas. Pic #2 did have a lesion or 2 in there. The thin light green blades appear to be new growth in those areas, but they don't seem to ever mature into dark green blades (If that makes sense).


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## Iceman

Can anyone tell me what I've got going on here. I have a few areas throughout my newly seeded TTTF.


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## g-man

A tomato?

I cant tell. It might be damping off. The leaves look long.


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## Iceman

It's 4" long fescue or it used to be. Yeah that does look like a tomato however there is a dogwood in this area


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## samjonester

This one might be a lost cause because it's no longer active. It's my Dad's lawn. He sent me a few pictures and said he thought it was red thread, but... it wasn't red. I sent him a picture of red thread with it's classic neon pink look, and he said it looks exactly like that, but green. He gets it every year in the same spot, in the late summer. He says that it starts as a green star looking thing. It doesn't destroy that part of the lawn the way that brown patch typically does. The first two pictures are from a 100% bluegrass area. I know it's probably slim, but is there any chance that anyone has an idea what it is based on this info and the pictures below?

** Side note. I think I see melting out in the third picture. He's just overseeded those spots, and I recommended he put down some of the Bayer fungus hose end stuff (easily applied propiconazole).


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## g-man

@samjonester do you want me to move this to the weed id instead of the fungus id? 

Good news, it is not a fungus.
Bad news, it looks like a weed. I can't tell from the images, but nimblewill or bentgrass. Looks lije it is going dormant, so nimble most likely or bermuda.

Where is he located?


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## samjonester

Ah! Thanks @g-man! He's right near Cleveland, and the weather got cold a couple weeks ago, so I imagine you're right about nimblewill going dormant. There's a patch of nimblewill that I remember seeing last time I was there. I will ask him if it looks the same.

It's been wet there, too, and there is a little bit of disease last picture which gave me tunnel vision.


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## Z0rkNY

Is this damping off? Melting out? PB?


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## g-man

Possibly. I cant tell.


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## Mozart

Found this today, very strange looking. Any idea what this is?

I only took a photo of one spot but I saw two like this:


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## Mozart

Below is another picture of that really weird cotton ball like fungus.

Is the second picture rust? I applied azoxystrobin - will that treat it?


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## g-man

First looks like a spider or moth web. Pick it up and see.

The second one looks like rust. Grab a white paper towel and wipe a leaf blade clean with it. Then look at the paper for the red/brown color.


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## Mozart

g-man said:


> First looks like a spider or moth web. Pick it up and see.
> 
> The second one looks like rust. Grab a white paper towel and wipe a leaf blade clean with it. Then look at the paper for the red/brown color.


Thanks @g-man. There is an orange stain on the paper towel, so I guess that means rust? Are azoxystrobin and Propiconazole equally effective and how long before improvement is expected?


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## g-man

Check the Fungicide guide. Turfguy93 linked a report that goes into the specifics of each fungus and best treatments.


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## Hoosier

Anyone have thoughts on what this may be? Just noticed this popping up... Seeded a couple weeks ago so has gotten quite a bit of water, and temps got into the high 80s for the past week. Temps here dropping into the mid 60s starting Thursday, so thought I was done treating fungus, but I'll get an app down today if this isn't something that will fix itself with cooler temps. Thanks!


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## g-man

Either powdery mildew or slime mold. Not sure since it looks to be closer to the edges of leaf.


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## Hoosier

Thanks @g-man. Ran out of light tonight, but I'll take a closer look tomorrow


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## Mozart

I posted this yesterday in my journal and @g-man helped ID as pythium blight.

I used a leaf blower to dry the grass and cut it down to 1.5".

I also spot applied azoxystrobin and blanket applied propi (for unrelated rust issues).

Questions:
How does it look today, has the disease stopped? Any further action required (rake out dead grass, etc.)?

Yesterday:



Today:


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## maine-coast-lawn

Here are some pictures from late last summer. Can anyone help me ID the fungus? Lawn is in mid-coast Maine, KBG, and was installed 3.5 years ago.


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## Powhatan

@maine-coast-lawn powdery mildew is my guess.


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## ksturfguy

Dollar spot or something else? This is in ny test plot area and only seems to be affecting the KBG area. Obviously ignore the bare spots as those areas didnt germinate last fall but I have 2 or 3 brown spots. Appears to be some new growth under it though.


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## bytemyfoot

Some things spotted around my lawn this morning. Just getting into learning about lawn care, so I'm sure there are lots of issues. Please help me ID these (I'm assuming fungus, but no clue).


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## Robpin

Can someone please help me ID this? It seems to be spread over most of the lawn and more noticeable in the areas that get the most sun. I don't think it is a lack of N since I've been spoon feeding at ~.3# N (organic 10-0-2). I've also applied propiconazole fungicide at 1oz/m a few days ago. I plan on trying the Scotts fungicide and collecting my clippings but would like to know what I am up against before spending too much money fighting this.


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## social port

@Robpin disease ID is tough. I have a suggestion, but it is a soft one. Leaf spot. Check out the characteristics to see what you think.


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## social port

I noticed the damage after several days of rain and very high humidity. All of the pictures are of fescue, except for pictures #5 and 7, which show Midnight KBG. Side note: I am aware of the ripped blades of grass. The issue is with the mower, and that has been an ongoing issue that I am trying to address. It has occurred to me that some of the damage here may simply be from a poor cut, but there looks to be disease as well. Dollar spot and white patch are my best guesses. I realize that white patch isn't supposed to affect KBG. 
1

2

3

4

5

6

7


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## tgreen

The lesions on the tall fescue look a lot like brown patch and would be consistent with time of year and is most common disease of TF. Incidentally, I see now why you were looking at my gray leaf spot post. Brown patch is tricky because it can show as spots like in your pictures and I bet 9 out of 10 people would tell you GLS is a possibility whereas I would tell you no way at this time of year.

As far as the white KBG, I don't know. Does it have a frog-eye appearance when you look at it from further away? Like an arc pattern with green in the middle?

https://plantpathology.ca.uky.edu/files/ppfs-or-t-06.pdf


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## social port

tgreen said:


> The lesions on the tall fescue look a lot like brown patch and would be consistent with time of year and is most common disease of TF. Incidentally, I see now why you were looking at my gray leaf spot post. Brown patch is tricky because it can show as spots like in your pictures and I bet 9 out of 10 people would tell you GLS is a possibility whereas I would tell you no way at this time of year.
> 
> As far as the white KBG, I don't know. Does it have a frog-eye appearance when you look at it from further away? Like an arc pattern with green in the middle?
> 
> https://plantpathology.ca.uky.edu/files/ppfs-or-t-06.pdf


tgreen, thanks for the input here. I was watching your GLS video because it is the best I've seen on ID.

I would not have ID'd this as brown patch, but that certainly makes sense for the time of year. There is more damage here than I am accustomed to seeing with brown patch, and I did not recognize it.

Do you mind if I ask if it is the time of year that is most decisive in your assessment that this disease in the fescue is not GLS?

With regard to the bluegrass, no, I see no frog eyes, thankfully. I'm scared to death of summer patch. But the reality is, the disease areas in the bluegrass are so small right now that I wonder if the real shape of the disease has developed at this point.


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## tgreen

social port said:


> tgreen said:
> 
> 
> 
> The lesions on the tall fescue look a lot like brown patch and would be consistent with time of year and is most common disease of TF. Incidentally, I see now why you were looking at my gray leaf spot post. Brown patch is tricky because it can show as spots like in your pictures and I bet 9 out of 10 people would tell you GLS is a possibility whereas I would tell you no way at this time of year.
> 
> As far as the white KBG, I don't know. Does it have a frog-eye appearance when you look at it from further away? Like an arc pattern with green in the middle?
> 
> https://plantpathology.ca.uky.edu/files/ppfs-or-t-06.pdf
> 
> 
> 
> Do you mind if I ask if it is the time of year that is most decisive in your assessment that this disease in the fescue is not GLS?
Click to expand...

Appreciate the kind words on the video. Great question on the criteria for making the GLS assessment. Yes, everything I've read as well as my personal experience says GLS is a late summer/ fall disease. It's worth noting this disease is not well understood even by the PHD pro's so I'm by no means an expert. Every academic article I've read on the topic suggests a preventative rotation starting no earlier than late July. I've never read a serious academic account of GLS at this time of year on cool season turf in the transition zone or further north. GLS on St Augustine is a totally different story.


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## social port

@tgreen. Gotcha. Thanks. I asked because the weather last week in Tennessee was very similar to what we would have in late July. That is when the outbreak began, as far as I can tell. And we did have some weather from the hurricane last fall, so...worried mind :lol:

Never been happier to hear the words 'brown patch' :lol:


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## tgreen

I completely follow your logic on the connection to temperature but I think there is more at work. My understanding is that there are multiple stages of the infection and it starts early in the summer at undetectable levels. Other research seems to claim that the disease travels north via hurricane remnants. Either way, it is a late summer disease at the earliest. Here is an old article supporting the former hypothesis, see page 2 under disease development (and note it says GLS 'overwinters' whereas my understanding is that current research says it does NOT overwinter).

http://gsrpdf.lib.msu.edu/ticpdf.py?file=/2000s/2003/031109.pdf


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## social port

tgreen said:


> I completely follow your logic on the connection to temperature but I think there is more at work. My understanding is that there are multiple stages of the infection and it starts early in the summer at undetectable levels. Other research seems to claim that the disease travels north via hurricane remnants. Either way, it is a late summer disease at the earliest. Here is an old article supporting the former hypothesis, see page 2 under disease development (and note it says GLS 'overwinters' whereas my understanding is that current research says it does NOT overwinter).
> 
> http://gsrpdf.lib.msu.edu/ticpdf.py?file=/2000s/2003/031109.pdf


Based on what is known about the disease, then, it seems that GLS is a disease that is present and active long before visible symptoms are readily apparent. The idea that GLS symptoms would suddenly appear after a week of wet and humid weather early in the summer is inconsistent with what is understood about its developmental process. Therefore, what I'm seeing in my TTTF simply can't be GLS, based on current understanding of how the disease develops. Thanks for this clarification, tgreen.


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## dad311

We have had a lot of rain and cool temp so far this year in Indiana. Today I notice a lot of this possible fungus all most everywhere in my acre of grass. Is this a fungus, if so whats best way to treat. Also, its looks like more rain all next week.... thx!


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## Zaly61

Hi everyone, I'm new to this forum. I have 1000 sf of KBG, I've been mowing it at the height of 1.5 inch for the past 2 seasons and had a great results until now. We had a couple of rainy and cool days and I just noticed that my lawn is turning brown. I applied Scott's diseasex at a rate of 4lb per 1000sf as recommended. Do you think it will help? Thank you for your help in advance.


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## g-man

@dad311 I would assume it is leaf spot at this point. All this rain is not helping.

@Zaly61 I'm not sure. One of your images is out of focus. How long ago was the azoxy (scotts diseasex)?


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## Zaly61

I applied it today after seeing it.


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## Delmarva Keith

@Zaly61 my thoughts are that's anthracnose, not brown patch. QOL fungicides not effective. Use a DMI (propi or Eagle).

I am not a fungus expert.


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## Zaly61

Took some more images today. My lawn is looking worse by day. Not sure if this helps but last weekend I applied MicroGreene 0-0-2 at 9oz per 1000sf and Greene Effect 7-0-0 at 6oz per 1000sf by N-ext. It looked beautiful and dark till Wednesday rain hit it, and it's been raining almost every day now. Temperatures dropped to 60's. You can still see areas where grass is still nice and dark but very little left.


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## Xoque

Found this thread while researching another topic. I have a constant battle with fungus in my backyard. I think the previous owners had a garden box or two and I guess they gave up and knocked down the boxes and made little effort to spread out the soil. So I have these dunes and they hold water. So until I finish other open projects I will not address this. But I ended up applying DiseaseEx one month and the following month bio advanced fungus control. Sometime I even have to assist with applying liquid via backpack sprayer using 2 modes. This year we've have had more rain than ever and even well into June. But I have finally got it under control but I have to stay on top of the preventive.


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## g-man

@Xoque be careful. Some of the fungicides in this thread don't work/hurt Bermuda.


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## Xoque

g-man said:


> @Xoque be careful. Some of the fungicides in this thread don't work/hurt Bermuda.


I am not aware of this. Please explain.


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## g-man

@Xoque this guide is geared for cool season grasses. The products recommended might not work on Bermuda (warm season). For example, propiconazole will hurt Bermuda reducing growth.


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## Ecubed

Is this Leaf spot?


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## g-man

@Ecubed I don't see fungus, just some normal die off. I do see too long leaf blades that could cause problems later.


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## Ecubed

g-man said:


> @Ecubed I don't see fungus, just some normal die off. I do see too long leaf blades that could cause problems later.


Well that's a relief. I just have this all over the back. Gives a brownish hue I hate. Front looks good but I give it a little more TLC


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## zjfriedman

New Jersey guy here. Been soaked here the last week but I'm showing some brown, yellow across my entire lawn. No clue what I'm doing so any help with ID'ng if this is a fungus or not and what I can do about it would be very appreciated!


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## Redeye

Overall my yard is good but not sure what fungus or funguses I have. Thinking I have Leaf Spot but not sure what turns grass blades to a tubular / rigid dead blade? I been rotating Azoxy, Eagle & Cleary 3336 on curative rate. Actually mixed Azoxy & 3336 together to get a synergistic jolt. Thanks in advance!


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## tgreen

Redeye said:


> Overall my yard is good but not sure what fungus or funguses I have. Thinking I have Leaf Spot but not sure what turns grass blades to a tubular / rigid dead blade? I been rotating Azoxy, Eagle & Cleary 3336 on curative rate. Actually mixed Azoxy & 3336 together to get a synergistic jolt. Thanks in advance!


The 3 tubular grass blades on the right are dead seed stalks, nothing to worry about. The rest could be disease or not, maybe iron chlorosis. I would not go out of my way to treat that. Also, I might consider dropping the 3336 (tmethyl) and eagle (myclobutanil) from your rotation. They probably are not helping or hurting anything.


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## Redeye

tgreen said:


> Redeye said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall my yard is good but not sure what fungus or funguses I have. Thinking I have Leaf Spot but not sure what turns grass blades to a tubular / rigid dead blade? I been rotating Azoxy, Eagle & Cleary 3336 on curative rate. Actually mixed Azoxy & 3336 together to get a synergistic jolt. Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> The 3 tubular grass blades on the right are dead seed stalks, nothing to worry about. The rest could be disease or not, maybe iron chlorosis. I would not go out of my way to treat that. Also, I might consider dropping the 3336 (tmethyl) and eagle (myclobutanil) from your rotation. They probably are not helping or hurting anything.
Click to expand...

Summer Heat is starting here in KY and think I need preventive treatment of Fungicide. Brown Spot took over my newly sodded TT Fall Fescue last year. I already applied Azoxy three times, so my question is what Fungicide should I use...Thanks


----------



## tgreen

Redeye said:


> tgreen said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Redeye said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall my yard is good but not sure what fungus or funguses I have. Thinking I have Leaf Spot but not sure what turns grass blades to a tubular / rigid dead blade? I been rotating Azoxy, Eagle & Cleary 3336 on curative rate. Actually mixed Azoxy & 3336 together to get a synergistic jolt. Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> The 3 tubular grass blades on the right are dead seed stalks, nothing to worry about. The rest could be disease or not, maybe iron chlorosis. I would not go out of my way to treat that. Also, I might consider dropping the 3336 (tmethyl) and eagle (myclobutanil) from your rotation. They probably are not helping or hurting anything.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Summer Heat is starting here in KY and think I need preventive treatment of Fungicide. Brown Spot took over my newly sodded TT Fall Fescue last year. I already applied Azoxy three times, so my question is what Fungicide should I use...Thanks
Click to expand...

Great question. Here is a link to some responses I got when I asked the same thing

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=9940&p=172577&hilit=brown+patch#p172577

One other product you may look at is Enclave. It is a 4 way fungicide combining contact and systemics. On paper, this would be a good chemistry(ies) to rotate from azoxystrobin. It is NOT labeled residential but is readily available if you look for it(e.g., domyown.com). It's also not cheap but no good fungicides are. It is not labeled residential because of the cholorothalonil which is the active ingredient in Daconil. Here is another link to some info on Daconil from the helpful members on TLF. I just ran this today so am looking forward to seeing how it performs.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=10611&p=172640&hilit=daconil#p172640


----------



## Delmarva Keith

For the folks doing commercial sites (or judiciously going off label), has anyone tried Daconil Action? It has some type of biological plant resistance activator plus chlorothalonil. It seems like something new and amazing (marketing copy always makes things seem that way). Any thoughts from folks who use it?

The concept seems more environmentally sound (less fungicide and more control) so if it is more effective it looks like an attractive product.


----------



## quattljl

How do you tell the difference between brown patch and gray leaf spot? Both are described as having tan lesions with a dark border. Do both progress to melting out (or symptoms of it) if left unchecked?

I have one, or both (or more), of these going on right now in my front lawn and not sure how to diagnose it. Ever since we got pounded with rain 4 days in a row in early June, I've noticed large brown, dying areas throughout the lawn that seemed to progress to symptoms of melting out almost immediately. You can run your hands through the canopy and just feel that the grass (both in the dead looking areas and in adjacent areas with some green left to them) doesn't feel well rooted at all. I've already done two apps of Scott's DiseaseEx at curative rate and not seeing much improvement. At best, it looks to not be getting worse. I'm starting to worry that my lawn won't make it through summer and I'll have to overseed to fill it back in instead of doing a fall pre-em for poa.


----------



## tgreen

quattljl said:


> How do you tell the difference between brown patch and gray leaf spot? Both are described as having tan lesions with a dark border. Do both progress to melting out (or symptoms of it) if left unchecked?
> 
> I have one, or both (or more), of these going on right now in my front lawn and not sure how to diagnose it. Ever since we got pounded with rain 4 days in a row in early June, I've noticed large brown, dying areas throughout the lawn that seemed to progress to symptoms of melting out almost immediately. You can run your hands through the canopy and just feel that the grass (both in the dead looking areas and in adjacent areas with some green left to them) doesn't feel well rooted at all. I've already done two apps of Scott's DiseaseEx at curative rate and not seeing much improvement. At best, it looks to not be getting worse. I'm starting to worry that my lawn won't make it through summer and I'll have to overseed to fill it back in instead of doing a fall pre-em for poa.


Couple things. First, your profile says bermuda and TF. I have zero experience with bermuda so can only address TF. Second, Gray Leaf Spot is a late summer/early fall disease and even then, is not super common on tall fescue. I very much doubt you have GLS in late June. See my video below for a tall fescue yard infested with GLS if you want to see what that looks like.

There are a number of things that could be causing brown areas in your lawn. Can you post a couple pics, one from a distance and one showing the lesions on the leaf? I can't guarantee I'll be able to ID but will try.


----------



## jdc_lawnguy

I live in Northern Mass. I have a Northern Mix. We have had a ton of rain over the last month.

I had a bought of leaf spot ~4 weeks ago. I applied Azoxy at Curative Rate along with PPZ at a curative rate on June 1st. I then did a follow up PPZ app on 6/15.

Last week the lawn looked a little better.

I over applied FAS and thought I was having and issue due to that, but realize it may be fungus coming back.

It appears to be only impacting the pictured grass type.



Individual plant - top of plant seems fine


Same plant as above but different background since I did not have a piece of paper to put it on.



Looking for suggestions or thoughts.

One last note. This section of grass is about a year old. It had a bad pythium outbreak at this time last year. Not sure if that is of any relevance.


----------



## quattljl

@tgreen the disease issue is in my fescue. No issues with the Bermuda. Here are a couple close ups of the lesions I noticed in the yard. I'll take some pictures showing the broader view tomorrow morning and post them.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-KjCfdMQUa0d9nn8UlcPHxAzxGuSq_Oc0A/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Byz_UoI3dwtyDZ9zr59F3C0IJyMkOzHS-w/view?usp=drivesdk


----------



## tgreen

quattljl said:


> @tgreen the disease issue is in my fescue. No issues with the Bermuda. Here are a couple close ups of the lesions I noticed in the yard. I'll take some pictures showing the broader view tomorrow morning and post them.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-KjCfdMQUa0d9nn8UlcPHxAzxGuSq_Oc0A/view?usp=drivesdk
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Byz_UoI3dwtyDZ9zr59F3C0IJyMkOzHS-w/view?usp=drivesdk


So, I take back what I said before. That actually MIGHT be gray leaf spot. I base this on 1) the lesions are nearly all circular and widespread. Brown patch can show as those small dots but you'd typically see some larger lesions mixed-in 2) die-off at the tip is consistent with GLS and I can see it in those pics 3) you said you ran azoxystrobin and that should have addressed brown patch and many other diseases. At a minimum, brown patch should not be getting a lot worse with azoxystrobin down. However, gray leaf spot has known resistance to azoxystrobin.

How many years has your tall fescue lawn been established, i.e., is it newly seeded in the last 2 years? GLS was a big problem last year in the Carolinas with the hurricane and it may be back although this would be VERY early for it.

Please take a look at the link below to the NC State turf pathology lab. It appears they will accept visual samples. Lee Butler is an expert on GLS. Tell him your situation, i.e., the dates and rates you applied azoxystrobin, how old the grass stand is (if it is fairly new) and send him the pics along with a view from further back. Tell him you read his article from last year on GLS (see link below) and that you are concerned you have it. He will probably ask for a physical sample.

If this is GLS, you need to know it with 100% certainty. I suspect he will be happy to help given this would be very early for GLS and he would want to know.

Please LET US KNOW what he says! Good luck

https://turfpathology.plantpath.ncsu.edu/diagnostics-lab/how-to-submit-a-digital-image/#

https://turfpathology.plantpath.ncsu.edu/2018/10/16/gray-leaf-spot-on-the-rise-in-north-carolina/


----------



## tgreen

One more thing, put "suspected gray leaf spot on tall fescue" in the subject line to get his attention


----------



## quattljl

@tgreen here are some broader view pictures. This area was thick and green just 1 month ago. I'm struggling with how best to attack this. All the guides say moisture control is key when fungus is present but my area experiences high humidity most of the summer. It's also been super hot so I'm sure some of the brown is fescue checking out from the heat.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k_aU8BnpSZamDtmpxngzjx1ZlCAEFGQjmQ/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fsSTFeEEIK9H1XVPfXCMp67G5efB8l2hVQ/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/16DyydlNUA8pJYXNRI5dNtghBQdQpq3DPPg/view?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XGwaD3lFi2C3-DDXlLA2QxIx3BZgdwDcng/view?usp=drivesdk


----------



## tgreen

quattljl said:


> @tgreen here are some broader view pictures. This area was thick and green just 1 month ago. I'm struggling with how best to attack this. All the guides say moisture control is key when fungus is present but my area experiences high humidity most of the summer. It's also been super hot so I'm sure some of the brown is fescue checking out from the heat.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1k_aU8BnpSZamDtmpxngzjx1ZlCAEFGQjmQ/view?usp=drivesdk
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fsSTFeEEIK9H1XVPfXCMp67G5efB8l2hVQ/view?usp=drivesdk
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/16DyydlNUA8pJYXNRI5dNtghBQdQpq3DPPg/view?usp=drivesdk
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1XGwaD3lFi2C3-DDXlLA2QxIx3BZgdwDcng/view?usp=drivesdk


Send pics 3 and 4 to Lee and both of the closeup's from the earlier post. See my above response. I get it, I would be concerned too and that's a lot of damage particularly since you were running azoxystrobin the whole time. You need to find out for certain if it's gray leaf spot. If it is, then I'll tell you about my experience, what I did and what I wish I would have done. In the meantime, do not water at all. You can't do anything about rain or humidity. If it is GLS then you would rather have the remaining grass go dormant than GLS wipe it out. It is a major disease and under the right circumstances can cause a near total stand loss. AGain, not saying you definitely have it but can't rule it out based on these pics. Here's a view of what my TF looked like after it was ravaged by GLS last year.


----------



## Delmarva Keith

@tgreen can you give us the story of your GLS battle? Maybe even start a new thread (and post link to it here)? Sounds interesting and maybe will help others with a similar battle (either fighting or to be fought - fungus is inevitable).

If faced with suspected GLS on residential, my knee jerk would be thiophanate-methyl. What are your thoughts?


----------



## tgreen

Delmarva Keith said:


> @tgreen can you give us the story of your GLS battle? Maybe even start a new thread (and post link to it here)? Sounds interesting and maybe will help others with a similar battle (either fighting or to be fought - fungus is inevitable).
> 
> If faced with suspected GLS on residential, my knee jerk would be thiophanate-methyl. What are your thoughts?


Good idea. I'll get my thoughts together and try to write it up here over the weekend or next week. In the meantime, you are correct that t-methyl is currently thought to be the most effective and on a 21 day interval. I base this on the work they did at NC State last year. See the link below to Lee Butler's twitter acct and scroll down to August 16, 2018. Notice he also refers to a mix of t-mehtyl and a qoi (e.g., azoxystrobin) on a 28 day interval as being the gold standard. A couple problems with that though are 1) he also notes a lot of GLS is resistant to the qoi's and 2) what do you rotate to after the t-methyl if you've already used azoxystrobin.

I think I know what these turf pathologists are thinking but they can't say it, namely that chlorothalanil is also highly effective on GLS but is not labeled for home lawns. There's kind of a big hole in in the turf path recommendation for GLS in a home lawn in terms of a rotation. If 1) GLS is resistant to qoi's, 2) you can't use chlorothalanil, 3) GLS can be active all the way down to frost temps (think late October/ early Nov covering the entire overseed window) and 4) recommendations are that you start a preventative program in late July or early August, then what are you supposed to do? Apply t-methyl on a 21 day rotation for like 5 straight times and hope GLS doesn't develop resistance? No way. You see the problem.

Here is the only rotation I found from a legitimate source (again, scroll down to the end). It's basically a mix of 1) chlorothalanil, 2) a strobilurin (e.g, azoxystrobin) and 3) t-methyl. All on a 14 day interval.

https://www.environmentalscience.bayer.us/turf-and-ornamentals-management/golf-course-management/talking-turf/gray-leaf-spot-2018

https://twitter.com/turfbutler

Thank God this disease is not all that common on tall fescue but if you develop it, particularly on a lawn that is new in the past 2 years then look out.


----------



## g-man

^ option 5) Reno to a 100% kbg.


----------



## tgreen

g-man said:


> ^ option 5) Reno to a 100% kbg.


Exactly! You know that's ultimately what I want but even in best case scenario have about one third of the yard in heavy shade and can only do tall fescue. Bewitched held up surprisingly well in shade but some areas of my yard are just too much for it.

Maybe I can bottle GLS and sell it as a selective herbicide to remove TF from an otherwise KBG stand!


----------



## g-man

Can you make GLS get rid of poa t also?


----------



## Delmarva Keith

tgreen said:


> Delmarva Keith said:
> 
> 
> 
> @tgreen can you give us the story of your GLS battle? Maybe even start a new thread (and post link to it here)? Sounds interesting and maybe will help others with a similar battle (either fighting or to be fought - fungus is inevitable).
> 
> If faced with suspected GLS on residential, my knee jerk would be thiophanate-methyl. What are your thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> Good idea. I'll get my thoughts together and try to write it up here over the weekend or next week. In the meantime, you are correct that t-methyl is currently thought to be the most effective and on a 21 day interval. I base this on the work they did at NC State last year. See the link below to Lee Butler's twitter acct and scroll down to August 16, 2018. Notice he also refers to a mix of t-mehtyl and a qoi (e.g., azoxystrobin) on a 28 day interval as being the gold standard. A couple problems with that though are 1) he also notes a lot of GLS is resistant to the qoi's and 2) what do you rotate to after the t-methyl if you've already used azoxystrobin.
> 
> I think I know what these turf pathologists are thinking but they can't say it, namely that chlorothalanil is also highly effective on GLS but is not labeled for home lawns. There's kind of a big hole in in the turf path recommendation for GLS in a home lawn in terms of a rotation. If 1) GLS is resistant to qoi's, 2) you can't use chlorothalanil, 3) GLS can be active all the way down to frost temps (think late October/ early Nov covering the entire overseed window) and 4) recommendations are that you start a preventative program in late July or early August, then what are you supposed to do? Apply t-methyl on a 21 day rotation for like 5 straight times and hope GLS doesn't develop resistance? No way. You see the problem.
> 
> Here is the only rotation I found from a legitimate source (again, scroll down to the end). It's basically a mix of 1) chlorothalanil, 2) a strobilurin (e.g, azoxystrobin) and 3) t-methyl. All on a 14 day interval.
> 
> https://www.environmentalscience.bayer.us/turf-and-ornamentals-management/golf-course-management/talking-turf/gray-leaf-spot-2018
> 
> https://twitter.com/turfbutler
> 
> Thank God this disease is not all that common on tall fescue but if you develop it, particularly on a lawn that is new in the past 2 years then look out.
Click to expand...

Holy crap, you know your stuff. The residential chlorothalonil conundrum. All we need is a new broad spectrum, low resistance risk fungicide labeled for residential. That's all, no big deal.


----------



## Pemt13

Any help identifying is truly appreciated


----------



## quattljl

Why is it ok to use chlorothalonil on shrubs/bushes/plants/etc. in your lawn but not on the lawn itself?


----------



## Delmarva Keith

quattljl said:


> Why is it ok to use chlorothalonil on shrubs/bushes/plants/etc. in your lawn but not on the lawn itself?


OMG, THINK OF THE CHILDREN!!!

(Inside joke. The reason involves an overbearing nanny state government coupled with a general population deemed by that same government as too stupid to follow simple warnings and directions. The registrant did not have data as to how much of the fungicide would be expected to be picked up by humans, like toddlers, who might walk barefoot or crawl around in the grass. No matter that not every household has children or would be unable to follow a simple warning to avoid bare skin contact, everyone is banned from applying chlorothalonil to residential lawns.)


----------



## synergy0852

Reaching out to see if anyone can help me ID this fungus. I believe I have two. First pics I'm thinking are dollar spot and the other I'm thinking brown patch but unsure. All of the fungus is concentrated to the areas I planted JG BB Ultra last fall.

Dollar spot?










Brown patch? Hopefully not pythium blight....














These pics are a day apart and this had pretty much decimated the entire area of tall fescue, didn't like the JG BB Ultra mix much anyway, but I'd still like to put a stop to the fungus. I've done 2 preventative apps of Propiconazole and 1 azoxy prior to the outbreaks.


----------



## Ecubed

Recently got a lot of rain and now super hot and humid. Fungus is definitely a new chapter for my lawn knowledge. From what I gathered I am guessing this is brown patch. Any help IDing?


----------



## Ecubed

Also should I bag when fungus is present?


----------



## Ecubed

Anyone help a fungus noob?


----------



## tgreen

It is nearly impossible to positively ID fungus (or lack thereof) from pictures. Most PHD turf pathologists won't positively ID it without putting it under a microscope. Everyone here, including me, is mostly guessing. Sometimes, it's easy like rust in the fall but for the important diseases it's never 100% obvious from a picture. Other times, you can make a guess based on time of year, grass species and conditions. If you want a positive ID, here is a link to the turfpath lab in missouri including the sampling instructions.

https://turfpath.missouri.edu/MU_Turfgrass_Disease_Submission_Form.pdf

This isn't what most people want to hear so the other answer is that you apply Scott's disease x and hope for the best. The active ingredient is azoxystrobin which is a strong chemistry on most disease. What you have may or may not be a disease and could be heat stress, particularly the brown turf near the driveway which heats up and dries out faster than the soil in other parts of your yard. Hope this helps. Not being a wise guy. Your turf doesn't look that bad to me.


----------



## tgreen

synergy0852 said:


> Reaching out to see if anyone can help me ID this fungus. I believe I have two. First pics I'm thinking are dollar spot and the other I'm thinking brown patch but unsure. All of the fungus is concentrated to the areas I planted JG BB Ultra last fall.
> 
> Brown patch? Hopefully not pythium blight....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These pics are a day apart and this had pretty much decimated the entire area of tall fescue, didn't like the JG BB Ultra mix much anyway, but I'd still like to put a stop to the fungus. I've done 2 preventative apps of Propiconazole and 1 azoxy prior to the outbreaks.


The bottom pics are most concerning. That tall fescue looks like it was cut extremely low? Almost scalped. Can you give some more context to what you did in that area?


----------



## synergy0852

@tgreen yes it is cut low. I believe I have the GM1600 set @ .75" and yes I know TF likes to be mowed higher but I couldn't resist the appeal of reel mowing my no-mix. I have other patches of this I reseeded last fall after AT&T got done installing fiber in the neighborhood that are doing better, they've got what I believe to be dollar spot. The fungus seems to be confined to these patches I planted last year. I only had dreams of reel mowing when I chose the black beauty ultra, now that the dream is a reality I will be doing a Reno in a year or two to KBG when my work schedule allows. The TF has been mowed @ 2" or lower since germinating. I believe g-man has mowed his no mix between .75-1" as well.

If there's any more information I can give you to help me figure out what happened/is happening I'd be happy to. Thanks tgreen!


----------



## Delmarva Keith

tgreen said:


> It is nearly impossible to positively ID fungus (or lack thereof) from pictures. Most PHD turf pathologists won't positively ID it without putting it under a microscope. Everyone here, including me, is mostly guessing. Sometimes, it's easy like rust in the fall but for the important diseases it's never 100% obvious from a picture. Other times, you can make a guess based on time of year, grass species and conditions. If you want a positive ID, here is a link to the turfpath lab in missouri including the sampling instructions.
> 
> https://turfpath.missouri.edu/MU_Turfgrass_Disease_Submission_Form.pdf
> 
> This isn't what most people want to hear so the other answer is that you apply Scott's disease x and hope for the best. The active ingredient is azoxystrobin which is a strong chemistry on most disease. What you have may or may not be a disease and could be heat stress, particularly the brown turf near the driveway which heats up and dries out faster than the soil in other parts of your yard. Hope this helps. Not being a wise guy. Your turf doesn't look that bad to me.


Wise counsel.

I haven't thought about it this way before but it's worth saying. Pull out the wallet at the beginning of the season. When disease pressure is expected to begin, apply a good tank mix of broad spectrum preventatives (groups 3 & 11, rotate with groups 1 & 4 - or whatever works in your area). Follow the labels for rotations and app intervals. If done that way, any problem one might see in a lawn likely isn't fungus.


----------



## tgreen

synergy0852 said:


> @tgreen yes it is cut low. I believe I have the GM1600 set @ .75" and yes I know TF likes to be mowed higher but I couldn't resist the appeal of reel mowing my no-mix. I have other patches of this I reseeded last fall after AT&T got done installing fiber in the neighborhood that are doing better, they've got what I believe to be dollar spot. The fungus seems to be confined to these patches I planted last year. I only had dreams of reel mowing when I chose the black beauty ultra, now that the dream is a reality I will be doing a Reno in a year or two to KBG when my work schedule allows. The TF has been mowed @ 2" or lower since germinating. I believe g-man has mowed his no mix between .75-1" as well.
> 
> If there's any more information I can give you to help me figure out what happened/is happening I'd be happy to. Thanks tgreen!


We may need @g-man to weigh in. I did see his TF cut crazy low and wouldn't have believed that possible if I didn't see the pictures myself. If you told me you were cutting tall fescue at 2 inches I would have told you that your lawn would look like your pics, i.e., scalped. So, if the question is why does my lawn look like this then my guess is that it is cut too low and we are basically looking at the crown of the grass that is dead.

Sounds like you have a good plan that if you want that low-cut look then much better converting to KBG. I can't help myself but add that I don't get why people like that low cut look. To each his own though. I also like wearing my hair long........


----------



## Ecubed

tgreen said:


> It is nearly impossible to positively ID fungus (or lack thereof) from pictures. Most PHD turf pathologists won't positively ID it without putting it under a microscope. Everyone here, including me, is mostly guessing. Sometimes, it's easy like rust in the fall but for the important diseases it's never 100% obvious from a picture. Other times, you can make a guess based on time of year, grass species and conditions. If you want a positive ID, here is a link to the turfpath lab in missouri including the sampling instructions.
> 
> https://turfpath.missouri.edu/MU_Turfgrass_Disease_Submission_Form.pdf
> 
> This isn't what most people want to hear so the other answer is that you apply Scott's disease x and hope for the best. The active ingredient is azoxystrobin which is a strong chemistry on most disease. What you have may or may not be a disease and could be heat stress, particularly the brown turf near the driveway which heats up and dries out faster than the soil in other parts of your yard. Hope this helps. Not being a wise guy. Your turf doesn't look that bad to me.


Well i went with your option and put down disease ex at 4 lbs per 1,000 (curative rate). Hoping for the best now. thank you for your input, ill know to be more prepared next season. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Is this azoxystrobin in diseaseex the same as what one would get from a more professional do my own product containing the same AI?


----------



## synergy0852

> I can't help myself but add that I don't get why people like that low cut look. To each his own though. I also like wearing my hair long........


Must be a direct correlation to hair length then as I like mine short, especially in the summer! 

I'm beginning to think that mowing the TF low has stressed it and opened it up to the disease. My neighbor to the west of me has had fungus almost the entire season so far and I haven't had an issue other than the snow mold until July when I noticed the dollar spot and now this. I've been keeping up with preventative apps, but the stress I've caused along with the run off from my neighbor that goes directly through that spot got me I believe. As stated previously all of the disease is confined to these low mowed TF areas I seeded last fall.

Thanks for chiming in @tgreen! I very much appreciate it!


----------



## tgreen

Ecubed said:


> tgreen said:
> 
> 
> 
> It is nearly impossible to positively ID fungus (or lack thereof) from pictures. Most PHD turf pathologists won't positively ID it without putting it under a microscope. Everyone here, including me, is mostly guessing. Sometimes, it's easy like rust in the fall but for the important diseases it's never 100% obvious from a picture. Other times, you can make a guess based on time of year, grass species and conditions. If you want a positive ID, here is a link to the turfpath lab in missouri including the sampling instructions.
> 
> https://turfpath.missouri.edu/MU_Turfgrass_Disease_Submission_Form.pdf
> 
> This isn't what most people want to hear so the other answer is that you apply Scott's disease x and hope for the best. The active ingredient is azoxystrobin which is a strong chemistry on most disease. What you have may or may not be a disease and could be heat stress, particularly the brown turf near the driveway which heats up and dries out faster than the soil in other parts of your yard. Hope this helps. Not being a wise guy. Your turf doesn't look that bad to me.
> 
> 
> 
> Well i went with your option and put down disease ex at 4 lbs per 1,000 (curative rate). Hoping for the best now. thank you for your input, ill know to be more prepared next season. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Is this azoxystrobin in diseaseex the same as what one would get from a more professional do my own product containing the same AI?
Click to expand...

Yes, azoxystrobin was a syngenta patented product until about 2 years ago when it started appearing in the Scott's brand. Before that, it was available but as a professional product not readily available to homeowners. The brand was Heritage. It's a very strong chemistry. Hopefully, the widespread use doesn't cause resistance but we'll see.


----------



## g-man

@synergy0852 it looks like brown patch, but I don't see the smoke ring. At least the damage I see in the leafs that are still green. Is this in a wet area of your lawn? I think I see grains of sand in the images. How far ago was the azoxy? I see a darker green, over application of something?

@Green hoc did not cause this damage.


----------



## synergy0852

@g-man I believe I saw the smoke ring on it the day before I took the pic. This pretty much happened in 2-3 days as I mowed on 7/2 and didn't see it, was gone the 4th and noticed it on the 5th. Just to the west of that area is the wettest spot of the lawn, after a rain water will stand there for maybe half a day. I put sand in a couple of small low spots on the edge of this area on 7/3 and didn't notice the issue then either. I did azoxy+prop low rates on 6/17 then prop on 6/30...sprayed azoxy at high rate on 7/5 again. As far as the dark green I'm unsure as the last FAS I sprayed was on 6/23.


----------



## g-man

Rake some of the dead stuff out. Add sand and seeds like golf course do for divots.


----------



## synergy0852

Out of town for the week, will do when I return home Friday.


----------



## jdc_lawnguy

Wondering if anyone can shed light on this.

I can't tell if my dog had been going in a place he doesn't usually go, or if I have something else going on. My suspicion is brown patch. Lawn has been on a pretty regular fungicide plan. TM 4.5 was applied approximately 11 days ago. This popped up in a few places near each other in last 4 days.


----------



## Green

@jdc_lawnguy, considering the color (all brown essentially) and that you're using fungicides, I'd say dog or insect is most likely.


----------



## g-man

I see a dark green ring around the damage area. It looks like a pee spot.


----------



## tgreen

jdc_lawnguy said:


> Wondering if anyone can shed light on this.
> 
> I can't tell if my dog had been going in a place he doesn't usually go, or if I have something else going on. My suspicion is brown patch. Lawn has been on a pretty regular fungicide plan. TM 4.5 was applied approximately 11 days ago. This popped up in a few places near each other in last 4 days.


Same deal with me and I don't have an animal. I have several of these same spots despite: chlorothalonil, t-methyl, tebuconazole, iprodione, azoxystrobin and penthiopyrad applications. Some of these I shouldn't be using but my point is that may not be disease. I don't think it's brown patch but wish I could tell you exactly what that is.


----------



## Green

tgreen said:


> Same deal with me and I don't have an animal.


Wild animals can pee, too...


----------



## tgreen

Green said:


> tgreen said:
> 
> 
> 
> Same deal with me and I don't have an animal.
> 
> 
> 
> Wild animals can pee, too...
Click to expand...

I had a bunch of raccoons eating my trash recently and I think it was them. Six of them. Wish I knew for sure. I think I'm like everyone on here that want to know exactly what is causing the discoloration in my lovely green turf and how do i fix it.


----------



## jdc_lawnguy

@tgreen and @Green good point, we get a lot of wildlife. Rabbits, coyote, deer, bobcat, etc. and my dog marks a lot. Only thing odd is it seems to have happen in two patches where the blue grass was thick and surrounded by underperforming rye.


----------



## MassHole

Found this yesterday, two days after mowing.

I did do some trimming in the area and wondering if it's heat stress from the tarp or fungus.

Put down PGR and Azoxy on Tuesday am hour after mowing.

I need to sharpen my blades.


----------



## Delmarva Keith

jdc_lawnguy said:


> Wondering if anyone can shed light on this.
> 
> I can't tell if my dog had been going in a place he doesn't usually go, or if I have something else going on. My suspicion is brown patch. Lawn has been on a pretty regular fungicide plan. TM 4.5 was applied approximately 11 days ago. This popped up in a few places near each other in last 4 days.


I get the same spots in my yard.

These guys kill spots in my grass, sit all over my furniture and their kits sound like baby's crying. Nature - isn't it grand. :lol:



From what I can tell, deer pee doesn't kill the grass. Fox pee does though :nod: .


----------



## jdc_lawnguy

Delmarva Keith said:


> I get the same spots in my yard.
> 
> These guys kill spots in my grass, sit all over my furniture and their kits sound like baby's crying. Nature - isn't it grand. :lol:
> 
> From what I can tell, deer pee doesn't kill the grass. Fox pee does though :nod: .


What a great pic.

We have quite a few of them around. Have seen a few younger looking juveniles in the area. They seems to be trying to stake out a spot. May be why my dog has been marking so much recently.


----------



## Tydaboss89

Can anyone identify what disease I have in my tall fescue?


----------



## Kaba

I have been struggling with a browning lawn pretty much every July since we moved in. This browning is consistent with other lawns near me built around the same time in the 1970's.

The lawn is quite old, old varieties for sure, mainly fine fescue. Some KBG has been sodded by the city from repairs and I removed some old KY31 patches and seeded. These two new areas were the last to start to turn brown.

I've been keeping my blades sharp and bagging (despite sharpening these areas have been prone to some tearing - probably from the moisture?)

I am by far no expert, but it looks like a combo of summer die out and leafspot/melting out. There is an ornamental crabapple tree in the middle of my lawn that has applescab on the leafs which have been falling into the grass. I imagine this is due to the very wet and cool spring we had. I see spotting on blades, but most of the yellow/dying is down on the crowns. Also to add confusion the most shaded areas are the greenest, maybe this is just coincidence with the heatwave that came through.

Hopefully you guys can help me confirm what is actually happening.

As I read more from Purdue and other extentions it looks like the best long term solution for me if this is brown patch or melting out would be to start seeding in new resistant varieties. Fungicides are very painful to import (shopping cost and nuisance) to Canada.


----------



## tgreen

Kaba said:


> As I read more from Purdue and other extentions it looks like the best long term solution for me if this is brown patch or melting out would be to start seeding in new resistant varieties. Fungicides are very painful to import (shopping cost and nuisance) to Canada.


Be careful reading the purdue disease articles. They are excellent but it's like trying to diagnose a health issue on the internet.

Most of the bad disease issues come when nighttime low temps don't get below 70F. Do you get temps like that for an extended period? If not, I would probably just live with a little disease from time to time.

My guess is you have a little disease and some heat stress based on your description and pics. I get that same thing where turf in the shade performs better than the sun at times.

Overall, I really wouldn't worry about your situation. If you really feel like you want to establish a lawn that stands out from your neighbors then that's a different story. Otherwise, your lawn looks good. I would start hitting it with nitrogen once nighttime low temps get consistently below 60F.


----------



## DiabeticKripple

I have a darker spot in my lawn along the gravel alleyway. Just popped up after a week of being gone from the house.

The bluegrass looks like it's folding in and there might be some fungus in the close up pic.


----------



## Ldware9

Advise needed!
I live in kansas and recently we went from rain at night with hot humid days to straight hot. I put down a fungicide early into the rain cycle and followed the direction. Well after it stopped raining 3 days later I noticed from what it looked like to be brown patch or dollar spot taking over my lawn. With the temperature being near or in the triple digits i the fungicide advises against applying over 90 degrees. Any suggestions on how to repair my lawn?


----------



## ryeguy

Most noticable thing is that the specks are actually raised/bumpy on the blade. I'm thinking this is rust. Thoughts?

There isn't a noticable pattern on my lawn, I've just noticed it looks kinda crappy in general so I looked at the blades.


----------



## g-man

Run a white paper towel to see if it is rust.


----------



## ryeguy

Yep, it is. Something else more obvious that didn't click till now: I noticed an orange dusty film on the front of my mower after mowing.


----------



## g-man

^ and that's one way to spread it. Try to clean you mower between area and not walk between good and bad areas. But wind will spread it too.


----------



## tgreen

Delmarva Keith said:


> @tgreen can you give us the story of your GLS battle? Maybe even start a new thread (and post link to it here)? Sounds interesting and maybe will help others with a similar battle (either fighting or to be fought - fungus is inevitable).
> 
> If faced with suspected GLS on residential, my knee jerk would be thiophanate-methyl. What are your thoughts?


@Delmarva Keith Just remembered this thread. Still will try to get my notes together but in the meantime wanted to give some info since we're getting close to GLS season. If I suspected GLS, I would 1) spray a combo t-methyl/ azoxstrobin 2x on a 21 day interval and 2) make sure I got a sample to a turf path lab to confirm the diagnosis.

I know that you know more about chemicals than most so I'll tell you what I would have done last year and what a preventative could look like.

Enclave is a four way fungicide not labeled for residential use and contains chlorothalonil, tebuconazole, iprodione and tmethyl. Knowing what I do now, I would not have hesitated to go out with that product as the first line of defense last year. For preventative, and I'd only recommend this if you have known history of GLS, I'd rotate Enclave with a combo azoxystrobin/ velista. The reason for velista is just in case the GLS is strobilurin resistant then at least you have a second line of defense. I have not seen any studies on Velista but it is labeled for GLS and is a group 7 so entirely different class than anything else in the rotation. Will it work? Do I even have GLS spores in my lawn now? Who knows. I would do anything not to go through what happened last year. I can say the above rotation is incredibly effective on brown patch.

I see my Bayer link is no longer active so here is the rotation they recommended for GLS. I think you'll see that several of the above actives are in this rotation


----------



## Delmarva Keith

@tgreen , great info, thanks. From what you've said, sounds like despite the $$$, GLS is sufficiently bad that it's a necessary expense. The SDHI's are very promising, but so new seems they're not yet well characterized for how they exactly work on what, especially in terms of resistance and rotation among them. If you have one that works, sounds good (despite the $$$).

For the spores, my bet is they're still there (and everywhere). If you could eliminate them all somehow, one good wind storm and they're back from who knows where. Just a matter of conditions and bad luck where they start germinating.

All this just highlights that we need chlorothalonil back for residential. It kills well without escapees for resistance. It's relatively cheap even in the new formulation with acibenzolar-S-methyl and it works as proven on golf courses and farms worldwide. Without it, at a certain point with the costs involved and rotations and so on and on, it can easily get to much cheaper to let it all die and reseed. Some manufacturer has to step up with data for the EPA and we can go back to normal. I think they're all afraid of what they may find if they go looking and that would be the end of that for the entire chlorothalonil market.


----------



## tgreen

I hear you. The velista may or may not be effective on GLS but at least it gives me some peace of mind as a backup when I'm on the azoxystrobin cycle. Will let you know what happens.


----------



## Green

Question: I'm noticing an overall browning of new grass...no lesions, just loss of color. Are there any candidate diseases that this could indicate? Or does it point to something other than disease?


----------



## tgreen

Green said:


> Question: I'm noticing an overall browning of new grass...no lesions, just loss of color. Are there any candidate diseases that this could indicate? Or does it point to something other than disease?


It may just be chlorosis from excess water/rain. Is it yellow-ish?


----------



## Green

tgreen said:


> Green said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question: I'm noticing an overall browning of new grass...no lesions, just loss of color. Are there any candidate diseases that this could indicate? Or does it point to something other than disease?
> 
> 
> 
> It may just be chlorosis from excess water/rain. Is it yellow-ish?
Click to expand...

Some is. Some is actually medium brown (uniform color - no real lesions, but some shriveling). I have had to water a lot because of the heat stress, and was concerned about overwatering as well...due water building up in the soil faster than it's used. I try to reduce watering whenever it's not hot or sunny. All the watering is by hand.

I've sprayed Serenade Biofungicide several times, and Propiconazole once. Unfortunately, I found out after the fact that the Bayer Propi I used had some additive in it that makes the mixture heat sensitive.

While I have your attention...I'm struggling with the Poa Triv...it's still there after two applications of the selective herbicide (e.g. Certainy). I posted on this in the thread on that topic.


----------



## ken-n-nancy

jdc_lawnguy said:


> I can't tell if my dog had been going in a place he doesn't usually go, or if I have something else going on. ...


The picture above is a classic dog pee spot, with localized over-application of nitrogen. The giveaway is that the center of the spot is dead (too much nitrogen), the border of the spot is growing gangbusters (a heavy dose of nitrogen, but not enough to kill it), and further away, the lawn looks normal.


----------



## Delmarva Keith

Green said:


> tgreen said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Green said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question: I'm noticing an overall browning of new grass...no lesions, just loss of color. Are there any candidate diseases that this could indicate? Or does it point to something other than disease?
> 
> 
> 
> It may just be chlorosis from excess water/rain. Is it yellow-ish?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Some is. Some is actually medium brown (uniform color - no real lesions, but some shriveling). I have had to water a lot because of the heat stress, and was concerned about overwatering as well...due water building up in the soil faster than it's used. I try to reduce watering whenever it's not hot or sunny. All the watering is by hand.
> 
> I've sprayed Serenade Biofungicide several times, and Propiconazole once. Unfortunately, I found out after the fact that the Bayer Propi I used had some additive in it that makes the mixture heat sensitive.
> 
> While I have your attention...I'm struggling with the Poa Triv...it's still there after two applications of the selective herbicide (e.g. Certainy). I posted on this in the thread on that topic.
Click to expand...

Certainty applied to cool season turf? Isn't that stuff for warm season only?


----------



## Green

Delmarva Keith said:


> Certainty applied to cool season turf? Isn't that stuff for warm season only?


If you have an older bottle/label, there are directions for use on cool season grass...specifically Bentgrass and KBG. It seems a bit finicky though. More info in the Triv thread.


----------



## Delmarva Keith

Green said:


> Delmarva Keith said:
> 
> 
> 
> Certainty applied to cool season turf? Isn't that stuff for warm season only?
> 
> 
> 
> If you have an older bottle/label, there are directions for use on cool season grass...specifically Bentgrass and KBG. It seems a bit finicky though. More info in the Triv thread.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Thanks. :thumbup:


----------



## gmorf33

Hey guys, newbie here... I spot-sprayed some quinclorac yesterday on a few crabgrass outbreak patches i have. I also applied some propicanozole as a follow up to the application of azoxystrobin (DiseaseEx)i did a couple days ago (both at preventative rates)as we have a ton of heat and humidity going on right now. This morning when i went to inspect the "damage" before i left for work, I noticed a few spots of "webs" in the dewy grass, mostly seeming to be around the crabgrass patches. They look like spider webs, but not in the typical "funnel" style i'm used to seeing from wolf spiders. So i'm guessing it's Dollar spot, considering a lot of the brown leaf spots i have throughout the lawn? But maybe it's pythium?

I also noticed a good amount of "brown tips" going on. I'm wondering if i have more disease than i realized going on, or if the extra browning is stress from the quinclorac and/or fungicides? I've attached the pictures of a couple of the web spots which also shows a little bit of the browning tips i noticed. What should i do about these?

https://i.imgur.com/UWU7vQ9 
https://i.imgur.com/973hopB


----------



## gmorf33

gmorf33 said:


> Hey guys, newbie here... I spot-sprayed some quinclorac yesterday on a few crabgrass outbreak patches i have. I also applied some propicanozole as a follow up to the application of azoxystrobin (DiseaseEx)i did a couple days ago (both at preventative rates)as we have a ton of heat and humidity going on right now. This morning when i went to inspect the "damage" before i left for work, I noticed a few spots of "webs" in the dewy grass, mostly seeming to be around the crabgrass patches. They look like spider webs, but not in the typical "funnel" style i'm used to seeing from wolf spiders. So i'm guessing it's Dollar spot, considering a lot of the brown leaf spots i have throughout the lawn? But maybe it's pythium?
> 
> I also noticed a good amount of "brown tips" going on. I'm wondering if i have more disease than i realized going on, or if the extra browning is stress from the quinclorac and/or fungicides? I've attached the pictures of a couple of the web spots which also shows a little bit of the browning tips i noticed. What should i do about these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, my pictures don't seem to be showing up.. maybe because my account is new? The URL's are valid and work if you right-click and open. Thanks for any help on what i should do!


Looking at the ncsu turffiles website, this definitely looks like pythium blight's webs, not DS. It also seems to match some of the browning and dying material i'm finding in my especially thick areas of turf. Will my combination of Azxoxy and Prop be enough to control this or do i need a different product? We have prime disease weather right now in Kansas. High's are still in the 90's (w/ 50% humidity) with nights in the 70's (with 70-80% humidity).


----------



## g-man

Go curative on azoxy.


----------



## gmorf33

g-man said:


> Go curative on azoxy.


Thanks, i'll go grab another bag of of DiseaseEx or maybe just bite the bullet and buy a bottle of AzoxySC. Since i just applied a bag of DEX a few days ago (at the prev rate), would a 2nd app at the prev rate be the same as doing a single curative?


----------



## g-man

Yes


----------



## tgreen

gmorf33 said:


> They look like spider webs, but not in the typical "funnel" style i'm used to seeing from wolf spiders. So i'm guessing it's Dollar spot, considering a lot of the brown leaf spots i have throughout the lawn? But maybe it's pythium?


That does not look like mycelium or pythium or dollar spot to me. Can't hurt to run the azoxy but I would not panic. What does the rest of the lawn look like.

Look at the pics on the original post below for what mycelium looks like

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=9614&p=157828&hilit=brown+patch#p157828


----------



## gmorf33

What made me think it was pythium was the last 2 photos (+ one in the middle) on turffiles here:
https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/pythium-blight-in-turf/

I snagged a few leaf blades from some of the ares that are looking really yellowed out. What do you think:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=18FjzEuOaMvIY4EXfpQbWqujUkGZw972O

I'll try to grab some larger area photos when i get off work.


----------



## tgreen

gmorf33 said:


> What made me think it was pythium was the last 2 photos (+ one in the middle) on turffiles here:
> https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/pythium-blight-in-turf/
> 
> I snagged a few leaf blades from some of the ares that are looking really yellowed out. What do you think:
> 
> I'll try to grab some larger area photos when i get off work.


As that article says, pythium blight typically follows water patterns (think: ditches, swales, runoff from sprinkler heads, etc) and also moves fast. If you noticed this a couple days ago and it hasn't already caused large areas of dead turf then it's probably not pythium. The only way to know for sure is to dig it up and send it to a turf pathology lab. You've shown close-ups and a few blades of discolored grass. Are you growing this as a houseplant or is this your yard? If the latter then what does the overall lawn look like?


----------



## gmorf33

tgreen said:


> gmorf33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What made me think it was pythium was the last 2 photos (+ one in the middle) on turffiles here:
> https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/pythium-blight-in-turf/
> 
> I snagged a few leaf blades from some of the ares that are looking really yellowed out. What do you think:
> 
> I'll try to grab some larger area photos when i get off work.
> 
> 
> 
> As that article says, pythium blight typically follows water patterns (think: ditches, swales, runoff from sprinkler heads, etc) and also moves fast. If you noticed this a couple days ago and it hasn't already caused large areas of dead turf then it's probably not pythium. The only way to know for sure is to dig it up and send it to a turf pathology lab. You've shown close-ups and a few blades of discolored grass. Are you growing this as a houseplant or is this your yard? If the latter then what does the overall lawn look like?
Click to expand...

lol, good points. bear with me, i'm new at this. I'll snap some larger area photos tomorrow morning and see what you think. I didn't see any of those "webs" this morning when i looked, but my sprinklers had just finished... so i think you're right on the pythium. I have a lot of discoloration and blades with legions on them. Yellow, brown and some black spots. A few spots near the side walk that are burnt out.. don't know if this is from neighborhood dogs or just extra heat off the sidewalk. I've verified soil is not dry and hard in those areas. Overall the grass looks green and decent from a distance, but when you're on the turf looking down you can see a lot of not-so-healthy stuff. Maybe it's normal, but i'm paranoid of losing my hard work to disease.


----------



## tgreen

gmorf33 said:


> Maybe it's normal, but i'm paranoid of losing my hard work to disease.


I was like you were a few years ago so I understand. Here's the advice I would have given myself several years ago if I could time travel.

1) Relax. Most diseases don't completely kill your lawn.
2) Turf disease on tall fescue is a fact of life unless you live somewhere where nighttime low temps get below 60 degrees.
3) Managing disease is expensive and time consuming. Decide whether a pristine lawn all year is worth it.

Azoxystrobin is the strongest chemistry on the #1 tall fescue disease, brown patch. I would do what gman recommended. However, even azoxystrobin isn't going to control 100% of disease on every leaf blade and doesn't always control every disease.

If you are prepared to spend a lot of money, spray your chemicals rather than spread granules and use chemistries not labeled for home lawns, then let me know. Otherwise, I would just live with it and do the best you can over the summer and overseed in the Fall.

The last thing is that there are some diseases that will wipe out your fescue under the right conditions. If that happens, you start over like a farmer that's been flooded or something. Here's gray leaf spot on my lawn in late September last year and what it looks like today. You can overcome.....


----------



## Aggrorider1

Wrong thread, sorry


----------



## Redeye

It's been very hot and humid(now rain) here in Western, KY & TTTF has been holding up well until now. I've been on a harsh Fungicide MOA and stopped a little too early. GREAT forum and any help on an ID would be appreciated...Thanks


----------



## Delmarva Keith

Redeye said:


> It's been very hot and humid(now rain) here in Western, KY & TTTF has been holding up well until now. I've been on a harsh Fungicide MOA and stopped a little too early. GREAT forum and any help on an ID would be appreciated...Thanks


I ended up behind the same 8-ball. Was doing great through around the end of July and then life happens and I couldn't get to it before the August petri dish of temps. Came on very suddenly and now it's catch up to try to minimize damage going in to Fall. For other reasons, no overseed this Fall so whatever dies, dies. My strategy is another round of propi/ azoxy as soon as I can get a few days straight without rain (rainy season seems to have arrived early this year).

What have you applied so far? Can you go with another round of propi/azoxy? Definitely the winning combo for BP (which is likely what you're seeing there).


----------



## Startingout

I'm currently out of town and got a heads up from home that something is up with the lawn. From the best I can tell is that its pythium blight but I'd like some forum opinions. Seattle area weather has been high of low 60s and lows in the low to mid 40s at night. Minimal rain and irrigation has been winterized. Very curious as to how resilient the fungus in this weather is. Is a curative of fungicide suggested?


----------



## tgreen

That looks like dollar spot but I've never grown poa annua as a desired grass and so not totally familiar with it in this context. Highs in the 60's and lows in the 40's is not consistent with pythium. You might try propiconazole to see if it helps. If not, I'd send it to a lab since that damage is fairly significant.


----------



## gatorguy

Hi there, On one of my clients lawns these yellow spots are scattered all across his lawn. It has been fertilized and as you can see some responds and the other doesent. My fear is grubs but we are just coming out of winter so I will do pull tests. It was like this last fall and all through the winter. We dont get alot of snow and when we do it melts within a week so it's not snow mold.

Any intel would be appreciated. It's in a yard that was sodded a couple years back.





Also on a separate note, in my own yard (which I plan to do a PRG Reno with something like Apple GL which I believe is darker..)on later in the year. As spring is coming and i got a first mow on it i noticed some yellowing on the leaf blades. Last year I had the dreaded poa annu pop up which I am looking forward to decimating this year so I'm wondering if that's the lighter colored weaker grass. Honestly never been able to positively identify this grass here...got alot to learn. It's probably a big mix. Last year I figured out alot of the weeds and appropriate herbicides, I've never gotten into fungicides though so that will be new😁

Thanks in advance, gatorguy


----------



## Buddy

Any help in regards to what I'm dealing with here? The white on the grass blades seems to come off and I'm wondering if this is powdery mildew fungus? I just cut the grass two days ago and spoon fed urea so I'm wondering if my mower blade is shredding the grass blades? I have to check it as I recently sharpened it. Any remedies? Never dealt with lawn disease or the products available.


----------



## Bman1

I have the same situation!


----------



## thytuff1

This is leaf blade tissue injury due to a dull or mis-sharpened blade.


----------



## g-man

I read this today. I think it was interesting.

https://turfpathology.ces.ncsu.edu/2020/04/ascochyta-leaf-blight-uncommon-sometimes-devastating/


----------



## gatorguy

Could anyone give some help identifying what is going on here? I havent sprayed a drop on this lawn this year, havent fertilized (waiting on soil test). It started out with one brown spot which coulve been a dog spot I thought (although I cant remember the last time I've gotten a dog spot in the front) been raining plenty here for the last week, before then it was nice dry sunny weather. So now it seems to be spreading, some grass is brown and dead, others seem to have a purple tinge on the leaf blade, some look milky, they lie down flat on the ground and it looks horrible. Was a healthy fescue/rye lawn a couple weeks ago.











Any insight is appreciated! Thanks!


----------



## shadowlawnjutsu

Can anyone identify this? I just saw it in my lawn and it has like a rectangular shape. I don't think it was there last week. But we had very high temps and few thunderstorm these past few days. I'm not very concernd since I'll be renovating and killing off everything but I just want to know what it is and how to prevent it from happening in the future.


----------



## gmorf33

shadowlawnjutsu said:


> Can anyone identify this? I just saw it in my lawn and it has like a rectangular shape. I don't think it was there last week. But we had very high temps and few thunderstorm these past few days. I'm not very concernd since I'll be renovating and killing off everything but I just want to know what it is and how to prevent it from happening in the future.


That square shape isn't a natural shape. Was there a brick or object left there long enough to nuke the grass under? Is there a brick or rock under the soil there? (use a long screwdriver to test). Those would be my first 2 guesses.


----------



## shadowlawnjutsu

gmorf33 said:


> shadowlawnjutsu said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone identify this? I just saw it in my lawn and it has like a rectangular shape. I don't think it was there last week. But we had very high temps and few thunderstorm these past few days. I'm not very concernd since I'll be renovating and killing off everything but I just want to know what it is and how to prevent it from happening in the future.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That square shape isn't a natural shape. Was there a brick or object left there long enough to nuke the grass under? Is there a brick or rock under the soil there? (use a long screwdriver to test). Those would be my first 2 guesses.
Click to expand...

There wasn't anything that covered it, I also poked it with a core aerator, probably about 3 inch deep, and there's nothing hard underneath it, just soil.

By the way, I posted this in disease identification thread and deleted it from here since I wasn't sure if this was fungus or not.


----------



## Cancop1

Can anyone help me out with this. Went away for 4 days. Missed 1 day of irrigation (we haven't had rain in almost a month but I have an inground system) I'm wondering if this is heat stress or Fungus or a combo ?? Cool season blend. Very humid here


----------



## DFWLawnNut

Is this fungus in my zoysia? Or is it heat stress / lawn clippings that got left on it when the wife mowed. Lol.


----------



## g-man

@DFWLawnNut this thread is in the cool season side. Most of us will treat zoysia with round up  I think you should ask in the warm season folder.


----------



## DFWLawnNut

g-man said:


> @DFWLawnNut this thread is in the cool season side. Most of us will treat zoysia with round up  I think you should ask in the warm season folder.


I didn't even notice that lol. Just followed over from the fungicide thread. If I could use round up on the bermudagrass I would too haha. Can't kill that stuff.


----------



## g-man

My Dollar Spot pressure has been high (75%) per the model. I've been checking the lawn. I mostly see spiderwebs, but today I had one. I took an image showing DS next to spiderwebs to show the difference. The main thing to check is that leaves in the spiderwebs stay green.


----------



## ksturfguy

Is this Summer Patch? This is my Mazama KBG which 2 days ago I didn't notice any brown spots or nothing concerning and now today it looks like this.









Added a couple more close up pics


----------



## KoopHawk

Saw this in my neighbors lawn and after a quick Google search is appears to be Slime Mold. Harmless to grass and should go away when it dries up? It did rain about .3" here this morning so it is quite humid out.


----------



## JulietAlpha

New guy here. Central Ohio. Any help with what this may be? I feel like its more then just dormant. Looks like mold. Also while I have your attention, I believe this is KBG with some TTTF, would you agree?


----------



## GreenCarpet

Hey all, need some ID help here. Thought Dollar Spot but the. I go back and forth with Brown Patch. Lawn is mostly TTTF with some Rye/KBG and Fine Fescues mixed in. Checked and don't see grubs and did the coffee can water test and no bugs floated to top.


----------



## tgreen

I have something that looks very similar. I have mixed TF/KBG stand and it's currently under azoxystrobin so I don't think it's brown patch. The lesions don't look like BP and also don't look like dollar spot.

It's the same purplish color with a curling of the leaf blade like in your last pic. My situation is also not a result of lack of water and I don't think it's too much either, i.e., pythium. The affected areas are getting full sun whereas the adjacent areas that get some afternoon shade are unaffected.

It's possible that it's pythium but also think it could be flat-out heat stress.


----------



## ionicatoms

@GreenCarpet, @tgreen

https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/pythium-blight-in-turf/

Looks like a match to me.


----------



## GreenCarpet

Thanks, frustrating as I see symptoms of both Dollar Spot and Pythium. Definitely don't see the tell tale signs of Pythium like the black and purple greasy spots of grass. Looks more like an orange tan spot. You think you are doing everything right and something like this creeps in! Sharing my humanity!


----------



## ksturfguy

@GreenCarpet based on what I've read in the turf reports and twitter, pythium has been a big issue lately so your not alone.


----------



## tgreen

ionicatoms said:


> @GreenCarpet, @tgreen
> 
> https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/pythium-blight-in-turf/
> 
> Looks like a match to me.


Yes, good call and thanks for the link/pics. I ran mefenoxam on it today. I don't know what else it could be.

I am curious if the OP was running azoxystrobin. That chemical supposedly does have some action on pythium which is maybe why my symptoms are a little less severe than what he shows in the pics.

Also, curious if anyone is routinely applying a preventative for PB. If so, I assume mefenoxam is in the rotation but what else are you using. Any details on the rotation would be interesting. This is the first year I'm noticing these symptoms.


----------



## g-man

Can someone tell them apart? BP vs GLS

It is hard. BP has more of an irregular shape.

https://twitter.com/turfbutler/status/1288497894320771073


----------



## ionicatoms

g-man said:


> Can someone tell them apart? BP vs GLS


Don't know if this helps or not, but this is how it looks in my warm season lawn.

*Brown Patch in St. Augustine (Technically called Large Patch), leaves pull out easily.*

















*Gray Leaf Spot in St. Augustine, leave don't pull out as easily.*


----------



## tgreen

g-man said:


> Can someone tell them apart? BP vs GLS
> 
> It is hard. BP has more of an irregular shape.
> 
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1288497894320771073


That is an interesting post by the guy who really knows GLS. I say that b/c it seems early still for GLS and it's also interesting he said it was "hanging out". My experience with it was that it works very fast. I do recognize the more star like shape of the GLS lesion. I wouldn't claim to be able to make a definitive ID though based on a few blades. Thanks for the info.

Here are a couple pics of a confirmed case of GLS I had a couple years ago. The lesions are generally more compact and oval-ish/ elongated star shaped like in the first pic. It's not like 100% of the lesions looked like this though as you can see in the second pic.


----------



## g-man

@tgreen In this replies, I found this one to be interesting in regards to BP:


__ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1288545887283683328
There is a new turf podcast with Frank Rossi and him. I still need to listen to it.


----------



## tgreen

g-man said:


> @tgreen In this replies, I found this one to be interesting in regards to BP:
> 
> 
> __ https://twitter.com/i/web/status/1288545887283683328
> There is a new turf podcast with Frank Rossi and him. I still need to listen to it.


I will look up that podcast, thanks.

For the GLS rotation, I wish I knew then what I know now. Here is a link for anyone that stumbles across this. I'd make sure chlorothalonil (even though not labeled for home lawns so you'll need to make your own informed decision) and t-methyl, possibly mixed with azoxystrobin are in the rotation, if these chemicals are in your budget

https://www.environmentalscience.bayer.us/turf-and-ornamentals-management/golf-course-management/talking-turf/gray-leaf-spot


----------



## KMcClure

Noticed some mycelium this morning. 6-8 patches of it. Any idea what it is?


----------



## g-man

Hard to tell. It is not DS. So either BP or PB. Look for brown circles.


----------



## g-man

bump


----------



## g-man

@KMcClure I merged this with the Fungus ID thread.


----------



## KMcClure

Most of the mycelium patches were in circles. It was hard to find grass with lesions on it for pictures. It didn't feel slimy at all but it's just in the beginning phase of whatever it is


----------



## kay7711226

Need some helping ID and suggestions on treatment solutions. Only positive ID i can make on my own is the "rust powder" on the leaves. Went through the complete Fungicide guide and think my best approach will be Propi and Azoxy. However with the cool weather approaching should that affect my treatment plan? I did apply Scotts diseaseex at the curative rate 2 days ago, had some left over on a recommendation due to suspected fungus issues in my Reno seeding area @g-man thanks for the tip looking much better. I went out looking for Bioadvance in the liquid form but cannot find any, want to reduce watering since the lawn has been so wet last couple weeks hence the liquid over the granular(does it really matter?) Looking into buying options for Propi/Azoxy via TLF links to help support, if you can also recommend some buying options for future use. Thanks in advance!


----------



## Creppin

Seems to keep happening and spreading. Turns brown then bronze-ish. I assumed it was PB but have not witnessed any white matter in the mornings. All in the new seeding areas.

Wanted to be sure I did not mis diagnose and could have treated.


----------



## GrassOnTheHills

kay7711226 said:


> Need some helping ID and suggestions on treatment solutions. Only positive ID i can make on my own is the "rust powder" on the leaves. Went through the complete Fungicide guide and think my best approach will be Propi and Azoxy. However with the cool weather approaching should that affect my treatment plan? I did apply Scotts diseaseex at the curative rate 2 days ago, had some left over on a recommendation due to suspected fungus issues in my Reno seeding area @g-man thanks for the tip looking much better. I went out looking for Bioadvance in the liquid form but cannot find any, want to reduce watering since the lawn has been so wet last couple weeks hence the liquid over the granular(does it really matter?) Looking into buying options for Propi/Azoxy via TLF links to help support, if you can also recommend some buying options for future use. Thanks in advance!


I just bought Azoxy 2SC Select and Prop 14.3 from DoMyOwn (didn't know about doing it through TLF links at the time, though... But you easily could. Headway has both!


----------



## kay7711226

GrassOnTheHills said:


> kay7711226 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Need some helping ID and suggestions on treatment solutions. Only positive ID i can make on my own is the "rust powder" on the leaves. Went through the complete Fungicide guide and think my best approach will be Propi and Azoxy. However with the cool weather approaching should that affect my treatment plan? I did apply Scotts diseaseex at the curative rate 2 days ago, had some left over on a recommendation due to suspected fungus issues in my Reno seeding area @g-man thanks for the tip looking much better. I went out looking for Bioadvance in the liquid form but cannot find any, want to reduce watering since the lawn has been so wet last couple weeks hence the liquid over the granular(does it really matter?) Looking into buying options for Propi/Azoxy via TLF links to help support, if you can also recommend some buying options for future use. Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just bought Azoxy 2SC Select and Prop 14.3 from DoMyOwn (didn't know about doing it through TLF links at the time, though... But you easily could. Headway has both!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the headsup, Heaway seems much cheaper at DMO vs my local siteone store. I actually purchased Prop 14:3 from amazon via the link here(hopefully there is a way to confirm the site got the kick back) Holding of on the Azoxy for budgetary reasons at the moment(also have some scotts left over) Seeing we are both in the NE and have similar size lawn, with your application rates for treatment and preventative how long do you think both(Azoxy /Prop) will last?


----------



## g-man

There was a post around scott diseasex and pb yesterday that I don't recall who was asking. Maybe @GrassOnTheHills or @kay7711226 .

When you apply granular fungicide, it needs water to get it into the soil. But once it is in the soil, then it needs time for the roots to get it into the plant. Then the plant will move it up to the leaves (for leaf fungus).

All this takes time, so don't expect a miracle 1 day after application. Some liquid fungicides can enter the plant thru the leafs, so that's faster. Other fungicides are contact protection. Kinda like wax on a car. It adds a shield around the leaf that protects it until the leaf grows and it is mowed. Most of the liquid fungicides, the carrier rate matters. You want enough water to cover the leaves, but not too much that you water it down.


----------



## ken-n-nancy

g-man said:


> There was a post around scott diseasex and pb yesterday ...
> 
> When you apply granular fungicide, it needs water to get it into the soil. But once it is in the soil, then it needs time for the roots to get it into the plant. Then the plant will move it up to the leaves (for leaf fungus).
> 
> All this takes time, so don't expect a miracle 1 day after application. ...


The above are all good points by g-man. I'll add one more regarding fungicides curing fungus...

The blades of grass or leaves that have been damaged by fungus will *not* be cured by the fungicide. The brown leaves won't turn green again. The spots on the leaves won't return to being healthy tissue. The crinkled up leaves or blades won't flatten out and be good again. Any damage that has happened to the plant before the fungicide gets into the plant and starts to work has already happened, won't be cured, and is done. Dead tissue is, well, dead. And once it's dead, all you can do is go through it's pockets and look for loose change. (Oops, wrong context... Better get back on track...)

The goal of the fungicide is to keep the damage from getting worse -- that is, to keep the disease from spreading to undamaged leaves, from spreading to (and killing) the crown of the grass plant (the growing point of the plant), and to keep healthy plants healthy.

In order for the damaged area to start to *look better* you need to wait for the fungicide to have time to protect the healthy tissue and will then either need to manually remove the damaged portions or wait for them to fall off and decay away.


----------



## kay7711226

You guys are dropping some major gospel! I'm ignorant on lawn fungus and appreciate it all. That being said, diseaseex went down 2 days ago, and planning on doing Prop tomorrow once it arrives. Is it a good idea to dethatch the lawn to get some of those dead grass out before applying? @g-man I was asking for help ID my fungus problem and what products recommended for treatment. If you think any additionally will help.


----------



## g-man

I can't tell what it is.

I'm not a fan of dethatching. It causes damage to the leaf. The damage is more stress and a path for the fungus to enter the plant.


----------



## Creppin

Any thoughts on this? I can't seem to figure it out. Seems like a lot of the 37 day since seed down grass this is happening to. I had some spots come in completely and now it's looking thin.


----------



## ricwilli

Got home from work and noticed this brown haze on some of the lawn. Is this GLS?


----------



## ricwilli

ricwilli said:


> Got home from work and noticed this brown haze on some of the lawn. Is this GLS?


----------



## Baretta

Leaf spot?



Thanks!


----------



## Sinclair

@g-man I think this is a case of melting out.

No mycelium in the morning. Blades get kind of dark and wilted, Then black and wet, then turn to straw. Whole process takes about a week from first symptoms.

Can you confirm, or do you think it's something else?

I've sprayed propiconazole and have azoxy arriving Wednesday.


----------



## Baretta

Sorry @g-man. Please move to fungus ID thread.


----------



## g-man

Sinclair, i'm not sure. Is this in the reno area? (Doesn't look like young grass).


----------



## Sinclair

g-man said:


> Sinclair, i'm not sure. Is this in the reno area? (Doesn't look like young grass).


No, this is in established 2 year old KBG.

The reno had something similar, which is where it likely spread from.

Things are stable in the reno section. The progression has stopped and there's new green poking through the straw.

It's concerning that it's popping up in the mature grass. I probably shouldn't have foolishly believed that the mature grass wouldn't be so badly affected as I walked around the lawn.

Wondering if I should bite the bullet and do a blanket app. So far I've only been spot spraying the hot spots.

I'm starting to question the sand/compost mix I brought in. This is my third seeding project in as many years and I've never faced a fungal issue.

Reno disease area:


----------



## Twomonsters

So my lawn is about a month old and It's tall fescue blend from seed superstore. Earlier in the month I noticed a lot of mycelium and die off so I'm thinking that was pythium and I treated it with Subdue Maxx yesterday. This morning I collected a few grass blades and it kinda looks like gray spot or Dollar spot. Thoughts?


----------



## g-man

Twomonsters, I don't see DS. For GLS, you will need to send a sample to a turf pathology lab.


----------



## SNOWBOB11

@Sinclair I think in general it's better to blanket spray fungicides. When your azoxy arrives I'd spray the entire lawn.


----------



## Creppin

Any thoughts. Similiar and has not improved with curative DiseaseEX- seems concentrated near road and one part of soil about 5' by 5'.

The light green was like this in my test pots for a long time. Then it went away. However there was not yellowing. This is now 45 day KBG - Mazama/Bewitched and various TTTF cultivators.

The weather has been so dry. I'm water every other day but have not fed nitrogen except once two weeks back at .25lbs as I was worried about how dry it's been. A good rain would be helpful.

My rotary mower is on 3". And went over with a push reel at 2". It looks like maybe I need to try and put it lower but nervous if it stresses it out and this is a fungus or lack of nutrients.


----------



## g-man

Hard to tell from that image. 0.25lb 2 weeks ago seems low.


----------



## Creppin

Thanks g-man for taking a look. Here's a few more and a wide angle. It seems further from the street it's a little better.

The low N is my fault. We had a couple of days where it got to the 90's but then cooled off, but no rain And sunny. Irrigating has been a battle so worried about over doing it. I had some die off in spots in the heat although watering in morning and noon from what I think was PB. I'm worried this is the PB too. I will drop .25 N/1000 and water it in tomorrow and Saturday although temps are getting up to the 80's and all sun.

The one areas I put plugs and peat with some seed. I know it's late but nothing to lose in those spots.

The lighter green was dead from summer drought and all the new grass.


----------



## g-man

I don't see fungus. Feed that baby.


----------



## Creppin

@g-man Thank you! I've been paranoid. I wish the weather would cooperate. I gave up on the blitz on the rest of the yard as no rain. Been focused on the major area.

.25N/K starting tomorrow each week until our average first frost.

Thanks again!


----------



## Cetnor851

Fungus back again!? Seems like a never ending battle this year. I applied a curative rate of Lesco Spectator a few weeks ago which i did see a difference a week leather or so. Fast forward a couple weeks and our temps have been a roller coaster. Solid week Of 50's and a couple nights of light frost. Then the following Week back in the upper 70's. So my question is did the turf take a hit from the frost and that's why I'm kind of getting a brownish tint to the lawn or do I have a fungus returning since we had the weird temps. Haven't been watering at all with all the dew we've been getting. Also I have not fertilized in at least a month which I plan to do one more shot.


----------



## g-man

That looks like a drought stressed lawn in the second image. Dew does not water your lawn.


----------



## Cetnor851

Hmmm, I guess we've only had one day of rain within the past month. I just figured with the cooler temps to back waaaay off with the watering. Is the yellowish blades the beginning signs of drought stress then?


----------



## g-man

In Indy, I'm at 0.13in of water use per day. The yellow can be lack of growth from drought.


----------



## xrn3p

Is this fungus or something else is going on? KBG/PRG mix, three weeks old.


----------



## elgrow

This just popped up this morning, is it anything I need to be worried about? Noticed some this morning when I was mowing, and then noticed more popping up as I was out spraying fertilizer.


----------



## kk07

Hi,
I've been watering 2 times day (by hand) because I overseeded 2+ weeks ago, and some areas of the existing grass start to turn yellow. Does this look like fungus to you? Could you please confirm if this is the melting out fungus and I can treat with propiconizole?
Thanks!
(P.S: I've never treated my lawn with any fungicide previously until last week where I spot-treated with propiconizole granules to treat the rust in a different area.)


----------



## NotFadeAway77

That looks like a similar situation I'm dealing with @kk07. Is propiconazole recommended over azoxystrobin or can either be applied at the curative rate?


----------



## Lust4Lawn

In my Bluebank reno at 29 DAG

I can put down Disease-ex and/or Propiconizole. I am also due for my second spoon feeding on this area.


----------



## g-man

That looks like dollar spot. Im not 100% sure. Look for the hour glass damage. Go with propi foliar if it is dollar spot.


----------



## Lust4Lawn

g-man said:


> That looks like dollar spot. Im not 100% sure. Look for the hour glass damage. Go with propi foliar if it is dollar spot.


Thanks @g-man! I really appreciate the input.

I just sprayed propiconazole at 1oz per 1000 since this grass is young (29 DAG). I hope that's correct. I'm going to let this dry on the lawn as we're expecting rain in about 3 to 4 hours.

Should I try to squeeze in my second spoon feeding of AMS sooner than later? I know I'd want to water that in and the incoming rain is supposed to be about a quarter inch but I have irrigation if that fails.

I'm going to be leaving this lawn alone after Friday for about 10 days. Should I get my azoxy down prior to leaving?


----------



## Zip-a-Dee-Zee

I have an area of well-established cool season grass that's showing signs of stress. The area is directly adjacent to a long swath next to my driveway that I renovated in August so it received ample amounts of irrigation throughout late Summer. I've been slowly lowering the HOC over the area throughout September with a manual reel and it looks like that has negatively impacted the established turf. I dropped a curative dose (3#/M) of Thiophanate-methyl 2.08% on Sunday 9/27 and will follow with Propiconazole this weekend & Azoxystrobin as soon as I can get some. In the meantime, I'll be poring through this thread to try and bone up on my limited knowledge of fungus/fungicides but if anybody can assist with ID and treatment it would be much appreciated!


----------



## truerebel

Do I have fungus? Or is the yellowing maybe from too much rain?


----------



## xrn3p

Mine looks very similar, is it fungis?


----------



## 440mag

@Zip-a-Dee-Zee wow! Thiophanate, Propi, AND Azoxy - all inside of 21 days? :shock: 
Whatever it is, if it ain't gone by Halloween, run! :lol: (Post pics if the section you lay those 3 fungicides back-to-back so close together starts to "glow" )

It does look serious and hopefully you may find corresponding symptom photos here (if nothing else, a positive ID will save you some $): https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/

@truerebel , @xrn3p Here is a link my favorite lawn disease "lookup" tool, with photos; should translate to your area: https://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/diseases-in-turf/


----------



## g-man

I wanted to show this fungus. It is right along the neighbors and my yard (aka domination line). But if you look closely, you will see that it had Powdery Mildew fungus. But why only on one side? Well it has to do with growth rate. I keep my yard with nitrogen to maintain it growing and mowing. Too much grow is bad, but too little too. His is too low, so fungus can develop in this shade area.


----------



## kay7711226

g-man said:


> I wanted to show this fungus. It is right along the neighbors and my yard (aka domination line). But if you look closely, you will see that it had Powdery Mildew fungus. But why only on one side? Well it has to do with growth rate. I keep my yard with nitrogen to maintain it growing and mowing. Too much grow is bad, but too little too. His is too low, so fungus can develop in this shade area.


Are you saying because he is using to little N hence the Powdery Mildew? 
I noticed a few of those same spots on the tips on my reno and front lawn(both South facing/full sun) after a almost overnight frost ~36deg(was thinking that was the reason)


----------



## g-man

Im saying that grass not growing enough can lead to fungus problems.


----------



## kay7711226

g-man said:


> Im saying that grass not growing enough can lead to fungus problems.


Ahhh, gotcha!


----------



## Bellwood14

I'm pretty sure I have a fungus but I'm horrible at identifying these things. This is a newly renovated lawn from last fall, it's bewitched, bluebank, and mazama. We haven't had a ton of rain here so I've been watering here and there. I've been spoon feeding at .25lb every week. I just sprayed some propiconazole 14.3 at 1oz per thousand, I also have azoxy on hand.


----------



## Bellwood14

I posted this in the fungus id thread as well. I'm pretty sure I have a fungus but I'm horrible at identifying these things. This is a newly renovated lawn from last fall, it's bewitched, bluebank, and mazama. We haven't had a ton of rain here so I've been watering here and there. I've been spoon feeding at .25lb every week. I just sprayed some propiconazole 14.3 at 1oz per thousand, I also have azoxy on hand.


----------



## TruGritLit

My guess is leafspot or anthracnose..broad spectrum like scotts disease-x/azoxy and propiconazole every 14 days×2-3x should get it moving right direction.
Inspect subsoil. I find most of these cases involve poor drainage issues, airflow, or both. Aeration-both liquid and mechanical helped mine in clay soil. Even wetting agents 2-3x year helps out. I spray humic acid and seaweed and foliar potassium to strengthen what isnt already infected..just my. 02


----------



## jkiley

Hello!

Any help identifying the following would be much appreciated. From the Purdue site I'm thinking this may be leaf spot or gray leaf spot? I'm considering treating with Scotts Disease Ex.

Last September I dethatched, aerated, topdressed with compost, and heavily overseeded a pretty thin lawn with Water Saver RTF. It came in great. I started to see some signs of what the images below show in late October, and it has become more widespread in the last ~3 weeks.


----------



## Lawn Whisperer

*Fungus or Dry Spots?*
I haven't applied any fungicides since it hasn't been humid and nights are still below 60's.
I have a few spots that the blades are thin and starts to yellow. Weather has been dry, but I've manually irrigated. I've raked the areas a little to remove the thatch.


----------



## g-man

It looks like drought stress.


----------



## Lawn Whisperer

g-man said:


> It looks like drought stress.


Thanks. I still have to fix compaction issues, I'll have to adjust my watering frequency for the longer days and higher temps.


----------



## TheThirstyTurtle

Would anyone be able to help me identify what this is? I suspect it's some type of fungus.

I live in central NJ where we've had some really warm days a few weeks ago but it has since cooled off a bit. I haven't used my irrigation system yet, and although it rained quite a bit two weeks ago we haven't seen any further water. My lawn is mostly sod from 10 years ago, although this particular section is mostly perennial rye (Jonathan Green seed) that was put in last fall as a partial renovation.

Also, not sure of this could be a culprit, but I power washed this side of the house last weekend with a bleach-based solution (30 Second Outdoor Cleaner). I tried wetting the grass with water before and after power washing to avoid any runoff onto the grass, so I feel the cleaning solution may not have resulted in this. But I wanted to disclose that info in case it's something that may be a contributing factor.


----------



## g-man

Only in the 2ft from the wall? I would think the chemical did something. I would try to water that area pretty good to flush the chemicals.


----------



## TheThirstyTurtle

Thanks g-man, looking at it again I'm in agreement with you that it seems to have been the cleaning solution. We did go a bit heavy with the cleaner so it very likely had an impact when it flowed down to the grass.

I will take your advice and water that area to flush everything out and grow back the grass in that section.


----------



## JBC-1

Afternoon all. Wondering if anyone can help with this problem and let me know if it is in fact a fungus problem.

Getting this yellowing on the lawn. Noticed it in the past week, but as memory serves when the weather starts to get hot, I notice that this has happened in years prior. Sucks that the lawn looks great, and now I'm having this yellowing starting to take over.

I have applied 1lb of N from AMS so far for the season (0.25N weekly) with the last application being last night. I currently do not have a fungicide and have never applied any before, but was thinking of getting some Propiconazole. Will this help if this is an actual fungus?

Last image is from a week ago. Look worse now. Thought's?


----------



## JBC-1

JBC-1 said:


> Afternoon all. Wondering if anyone can help with this problem and let me know if it is in fact a fungus problem.
> 
> Getting this yellowing on the lawn. Noticed it in the past week, but as memory serves when the weather starts to get hot, I notice that this has happened in years prior. Sucks that the lawn looks great, and now I'm having this yellowing starting to take over.
> 
> I have applied 1lb of N from AMS so far for the season (0.25N weekly) with the last application being last night. I currently do not have a fungicide and have never applied any before, but was thinking of getting some Propiconazole. Will this help if this is an actual fungus?
> 
> Last image is from a week ago. Look worse now. Thought's?


Adding two more pics to the above...any thoughts?


----------



## Lawn Noob

JBC-1 said:


> JBC-1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Afternoon all. Wondering if anyone can help with this problem and let me know if it is in fact a fungus problem.
> 
> Getting this yellowing on the lawn. Noticed it in the past week, but as memory serves when the weather starts to get hot, I notice that this has happened in years prior. Sucks that the lawn looks great, and now I'm having this yellowing starting to take over.
> 
> I have applied 1lb of N from AMS so far for the season (0.25N weekly) with the last application being last night. I currently do not have a fungicide and have never applied any before, but was thinking of getting some Propiconazole. Will this help if this is an actual fungus?
> 
> Last image is from a week ago. Look worse now. Thought's?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Adding two more pics to the above...any thoughts?
Click to expand...

Sharpen your mower blades. Those frayed tips aren't helping.


----------



## jwill

We have had a lot of rain lately and it has recently become humid. Favorable conditions for disease. What should I apply to my Bewitched KBG? I have Propiconazole and Azoxystrobin.

Can you help with ID and what to put down? Thanks!


----------



## JBC-1

Lawn Noob said:


> JBC-1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JBC-1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Afternoon all. Wondering if anyone can help with this problem and let me know if it is in fact a fungus problem.
> 
> Getting this yellowing on the lawn. Noticed it in the past week, but as memory serves when the weather starts to get hot, I notice that this has happened in years prior. Sucks that the lawn looks great, and now I'm having this yellowing starting to take over.
> 
> I have applied 1lb of N from AMS so far for the season (0.25N weekly) with the last application being last night. I currently do not have a fungicide and have never applied any before, but was thinking of getting some Propiconazole. Will this help if this is an actual fungus?
> 
> Last image is from a week ago. Look worse now. Thought's?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sharpen your mower blades. Those frayed tips aren't helping.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Did that today actually. Going to cut later this evening, but raising the height from 2.25 to 3.25. Temps are in the 90's currently.
Click to expand...


----------



## Kstawski

Not sure what I'm dealing with here. KBG outside Chicago. I applied BioAdvanced about 1.5 months ago to battle powdery mildew and it's been down hill since. It's been getting 1.5" water per week and feetized 4 lbs of 20-0-10 at the beginning of May.


----------



## g-man

Check for bugs. Mainly chinch bugs.


----------



## Kstawski

g-man said:


> Check for bugs. Mainly chinch bugs.


I assume your suggesting that to me. Any other bugs I should be on the look out for? I never heard of Chinch bugs and after a quick search they seem to more prevalent in warm season turf.


----------



## Mark102

So I have lived in my house for 6 years and every year my back yard dies back more and more in the summer. It always comes back in the fall and again looks great in early spring. I finally caught it just starting to die back so I took a closer look. It's definitely fungus but I am not sure what it is. Brown patch maybe? I applied curative rate of disease Ex and will do it again in 2 weeks.


----------



## g-man

@Mark102 I think you should send a sample to a turf pathology lab. I'm not sure what's available in Vermont. I think it is a fungus and what I'm seeing doesnt align with your current weather. If you have to send out of state, then Lee Butler in NC State Univ would be my choice.

While you wait, try to get Thiophanate-methyl and treat via spray (not granular).


----------



## SEKBrian

Anyone have an idea what I could be dealing with here? I live in South East Kansas and my yard is mainly bluegrasss. I've been on a solid preventative fungicide plan so far this year. Weather has been extremely overcast and humid for the last 2 weeks


----------



## Mark102

g-man said:


> @Mark102 I think you should send a sample to a turf pathology lab. I'm not sure what's available in Vermont. I think it is a fungus and what I'm seeing doesnt align with your current weather. If you have to send out of state, then Lee Butler in NC State Univ would be my choice.
> 
> While you wait, try to get Thiophanate-methyl and treat via spray (not granular).


Thanks @g-man What does it look like to you? We had temps over 90 with humidity 2 weeks ago but now it's in the 50's again. Leaf spot with melting out seems plausible to me. Also why the Thiophante-methyl? Is that better than azoxystrobin?


----------



## g-man

I hate to guess. That's what I think you should get it tested. Since you already did azoxy, I think trying something different might be useful.

I dont think it is leaf spot/melting out. It has the spots in the leaf like brown patch or gray leaf spot.


----------



## eric1104

Looking for some assistance with identification of some spots I see popping up - and what my best course of action is moving forward. I have a guess based on reading this thread, but hoping to get some input from those that have more experience. There are a few of these patches in my front lawn.











A closer look:







I also have what I believe to be rust issues, or leaf spot/melting.



My last application of PGR was 5/26 @0.3oz/M and my HOC is 2.5 in. I would like to treat this and perhaps get on a fungicide plan for the remainder of the summer. Any and all suggestions/input welcome.


----------



## cleohioturf

your second close up shot looks like dollar spot, has the hourglass lesion.


----------



## Sinclair

Is this melting out? The top of the blades in the closeup are the mowed ends, and the frayed, soggy, brown end is from the crown.

Whatever it is, it's moving fast. Pics 5 days apart.

Been hot, wet and humid here, but cooling off and hopefully drying out this week.

I sprayed curative rates of azoxy + propiconazole, and reluctantly watered in with ~1/4" water.


----------



## g-man

How much irrigation?


----------



## Sinclair

g-man said:


> How much irrigation?


This past week, none, as we've had lots of rain.

There were two rain events this past week that resulted in pooled water in some low spots, and somehow even after the rain the weather stayed warm and humid.

The pooled water didn't stick around long, it was just an incredible precipitation rate, with gutters and downspouts blasting like fire hoses.


----------



## g-man

A week without irrigation can be too much. Drought stress to the roots cause the plant to struggle and be more likely to develop the fungus or loose some leaves. I don't see a fungus in your images, but keep monitoring.


----------



## jimmythegreek

I'm battling some melfout in the 2k fenced backyard. I got ahead of it early spring as I had snow mold and just did light fert apps. I was away for a few days and it's getting worst now. I finally grabbed my fungicides to spray I ran out. I went heavy on azoxy Saturday amd it has rained twice since. I have some weeds and clover popping up and was gonna spray for then. Is if ok to treat or will this further stress the lawn. Its SSS tttf and KBG


----------



## Overtaxed

@jimmythegreek

I'd spot spray in your situation. Anytime you hit it with a herbicide it's "stress" on the lawn, but so is competition from weeds. I'd hit what I see with a herbicide and keep on the fungicide program. But I wouldn't blanket with a herbicide if I could avoid it (which it sounds like you can).


----------



## drcolossus11

Rain let up for a few here in SE MI, so I went to check the lawn as it's been wet and humid.

Disease Ex on 6/8 at preventative rate. 
PPZ on 6/18 @ 1oz/M
What's next?


----------



## tgreen

second and fifth pic's look like seed they were attached to seed stalks and no need to worry

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=28890&p=397688&hilit=seed+stalk#p397688

First looks like brown patch on tall fescue. Maybe same on the third. You don't show an overall view of the lawn so I'm assuming it looks OK. Even using a fungicide you can expect to see some grass blades that are not pristine. Azoxytrobin is effective on brown patch. Propiconazole not as much even though it's labeled for it.


----------



## drcolossus11

There is definitely some dollar spot on a couple areas as they had the hour glass lesions. That is why I treated with PPZ. The pics I posted I could not identify. Below are some pics of the overall areas.


----------



## tgreen

Could be a few things going on. You've used the strongest residential labeled fungicide you can get for most issues with the azoxystrobin. Some of it looks like brown patch. Not sure about the dead areas near the house but might be a lack of water. The matted down grass in the second to last picture, is that from foot traffic? It almost looks like a different grass type.


----------



## drcolossus11

tgreen said:


> Could be a few things going on. You've used the strongest residential labeled fungicide you can get for most issues with the azoxystrobin. Some of it looks like brown patch. Not sure about the dead areas near the house but might be a lack of water. The matted down grass in the second to last picture, is that from foot traffic? It almost looks like a different grass type.


@tgreen The dead areas on the side of the house have white tips and then a black band. Some might be dog urine spots as well. The matted down area is where the dog lays. It's mostly fine fescue and PRG. It has the same lesions as the rest of the areas. I'll prolly give it another dose of Azoxy and PPZ once the rain stops. Should I throw some N at it or let it be?


----------



## tgreen

A few things to think about:

1) Check the rate on the label and use the high rate that lasts for 28 days. You can use the azoxystrobin like this for 3, 28 day cycles before you need to rotate. I wouldn't apply more often than that.
2) Propiconazole is fine for dollar spot but does not work well for brown patch. BP is extremely common on tall fescue at this time of year.
3) Foliar/ spray applications of fungicides are better than granular applications, in my experience.
4) The fine fescues do not do well in heat. In zone 6b, I would not seed any more fine fescue. Go with tall fescue, KBG or a mix.

You could run some nitrogen at a low rate, say 0.25 to 0.33 lb/K. If it were me, I'd probably do one more application of the fungicide and save the rest of your money to overseed around the first week of September to repair the damage.

If you wanted to get aggressive, I'd kill the lawn to get rid of the fine fescues and seed tall fescue and KBG. It's a lot of work though. You'd start killing it with roundup in early-mid August and seed in early September. Maybe think about it for next year.


----------



## Puumba

Chicago suburbs - new home this year and haven't done any preventative fungicides. Did some digging and couldn't find any grubs. Any thoughts much appreciated.


----------



## Sandi

Improper identification wastes our time, fungi meanwhile destroy the grass. I wonder if there really isn't some more reliable identification process.
After a very wet spring, I probably struggle with some kind of necrotic ring fungus.
Here is a picture of my grass in a petri dish after two days. 
What do you think, is it worth complicating this way?










Others:

Dollar spot 
https://www.gcmonline.com/course/environment/news/dollar-spot-turf
http://zeleni-dom.si/phpbb/download/file.php?id=349

Leaf spot:
https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Drechslera-dematioidea-A-Culture-plate-B-Conidiophore-and-Conidia-C-Conidia-D_fig1_326028413

Red thread (Laetisaria fuciformis)
https://www.researchgate.net/figure/a-Symptoms-of-Laetisaria-fuciformis-causing-red-thread-on-seashore-paspalum-which_fig1_273311729

Brown patch (Rhizoctonia solani)
https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Macroscopic-developmental-stages-of-Rhizoctonia-solani-AG-1-IA-on-PDA-plates-Notes_fig1_323505559

Necrotic ring spot (Ophiosphaerella spp.)
https://www.invasive.org/browse/detail.cfm?imgnum=5475461#javascript:fullscreen
https://www.apsnet.org/edcenter/apsnetfeatures/Pages/Bermudagrass.aspx
https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/bp/bp-116-w.pdf


----------



## LawnDetail

Leaf spot or melting out. PRG Lawn


----------



## drcolossus11

tgreen said:


> A few things to think about:
> 
> 1) Check the rate on the label and use the high rate that lasts for 28 days. You can use the azoxystrobin like this for 3, 28 day cycles before you need to rotate. I wouldn't apply more often than that.
> 2) Propiconazole is fine for dollar spot but does not work well for brown patch. BP is extremely common on tall fescue at this time of year.
> 3) Foliar/ spray applications of fungicides are better than granular applications, in my experience.
> 4) The fine fescues do not do well in heat. In zone 6b, I would not seed any more fine fescue. Go with tall fescue, KBG or a mix.
> 
> You could run some nitrogen at a low rate, say 0.25 to 0.33 lb/K. If it were me, I'd probably do one more application of the fungicide and save the rest of your money to overseed around the first week of September to repair the damage.
> 
> If you wanted to get aggressive, I'd kill the lawn to get rid of the fine fescues and seed tall fescue and KBG. It's a lot of work though. You'd start killing it with roundup in early-mid August and seed in early September. Maybe think about it for next year.


Thanks! I over-seeded last year with a blend from a local place. I don't think I'm quite ready for a full renovation, but plan to over seed with a better blend this fall.


----------



## DaddyO

Hey folks any thoughts on what this is?


----------



## tgreen

^ probably brown patch on the tall fescue


----------



## Svaness12

Hello everyone. I could use your help. The lawn is turning a bit brown. The weather in Wisconsin has been a roller coaster this season. We had a significant portion of late spring without water. Now we have experienced quite a bit of rain the past two weeks. (4 inches or so). I was able to irrigate during the portions without rain. I have put Scott's Disease Ex down late may, followed by Bayer Fungicide two weeks later. I am just not sure what's going on. Thanks for your help!


----------



## Matthew_73

We have had hi temps and 6-7" of rain.. I am noticing spots in the yard.. I have never dealt with lawn disease.. I did an app of Prop 3 weeks ago and raked up some of the area... it was mostly half standing up in the less than green areas... then i mowed the area and bagged it... and then applied another app of Prop in a few weeks I am thinking of Dieseasex...



Here is a leaf blade... I have noticed some other yards with similar, i am wondering if mine is accelerated because I added liquid fert a few weeks ago....


----------



## Matthew_73

Why did this get moved? If there are multiple post on the cool season main thread and No one has answered this or other posts on this thread?


----------



## Powhatan

Matthew_73 said:


> Here is a leaf blade... I have noticed some other yards with similar, i am wondering if mine is accelerated because I added liquid fert a few weeks ago....


Looks like brown patch disease. The high temps and wetness probably did more to encourage the disease outbreak than applying a small fert amount. Keep up with the curative fungicide apps, don't forget to rotate MOA (mode of action), and try not to water in excess. May take some weeks for good grass to fill in the dead diseased brown grass.


----------



## Matthew_73

Powhatan said:


> Matthew_73 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a leaf blade... I have noticed some other yards with similar, i am wondering if mine is accelerated because I added liquid fert a few weeks ago....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like brown patch disease. The high temps and wetness probably did more to encourage the disease outbreak than applying a small fert amount. Keep up with the curative fungicide apps, don't forget to rotate MOA (mode of action), and try not to water in excess. May take some weeks for good grass to fill in the dead diseased brown grass.
Click to expand...

What is my next action? I ordered some Cleary's 3336 Low liquid fert? micros? I am bagging that sect


----------



## Powhatan

Matthew_73 said:


> Powhatan said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matthew_73 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Here is a leaf blade... I have noticed some other yards with similar, i am wondering if mine is accelerated because I added liquid fert a few weeks ago....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like brown patch disease. The high temps and wetness probably did more to encourage the disease outbreak than applying a small fert amount. Keep up with the curative fungicide apps, don't forget to rotate MOA (mode of action), and try not to water in excess. May take some weeks for good grass to fill in the dead diseased brown grass.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What is my next action? I ordered some Cleary's 3336 Low liquid fert? micros? I am bagging that sect
Click to expand...

Apply the fungicides per the curative schedule/rate amount which is typically two weeks and twice the preventative rate, read the label for the product you're applying for application instructions. Mow with a sharp blade to get clean cuts. I would keep bagging the infected area to minimize disease spread.


----------



## Matthew_73

Powhatan said:


> Apply the fungicides per the curative schedule/rate amount which is typically two weeks and twice the preventative rate, read the label for the product you're applying for application instructions. Mow with a sharp blade to get clean cuts. I would keep bagging the infected area to minimize disease spread.


Thanks... Any foliar fert apps? suppose to get another week of rain starting tomorrow night...


----------



## Powhatan

Matthew_73 said:


> Powhatan said:
> 
> 
> 
> Apply the fungicides per the curative schedule/rate amount which is typically two weeks and twice the preventative rate, read the label for the product you're applying for application instructions. Mow with a sharp blade to get clean cuts. I would keep bagging the infected area to minimize disease spread.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks... Any foliar fert apps? suppose to get another week of rain starting tomorrow night...
Click to expand...

i use granular organic ferts during summer with low about .25-.50 #N/M. I want the soil microbes to digest and process what they are able to and the grass take up what it needs, when it needs it - no forced top growth. Summer is a stress period for cool season grass. Maybe someone else will chime in for a foliar fert recommendation.


----------



## JerseyGreens

For people following my journal I noted that I'm dealing with some disease type issues and riding it out...I'm to the point where I just don't like the look...FYI: I have to get some SOP down ASAP as the limited amount of XGRN (8-1-8), and foliar phosphites isn't getting me to the levels I should be at.

It's getting progressively worse at this point and I need some advice.

Here is a picture:



From that view its not that bad as only some leaf blades have been hit, others look OK.

Last preventative fungicide Apps:
31 days ago: 2oz per K Propi
16 days ago: 0.77oz per K Azoxy

Clearys (plus maybe a propi mix) is going to be the next up in my arsenal but want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Thanks gang.


----------



## Matthew_73

Powhatan said:


> i use granular organic ferts during summer with low about 25%-50% N. I want the soil microbes to digest and process what they are able to and the grass take up what it needs, when it needs it - no forced top growth. Summer is a stress period for cool season grass. Maybe someone else will chime in for a foliar fert recommendation.


I have this. menards natural milo clone


----------



## Powhatan

Matthew_73 said:


> Powhatan said:
> 
> 
> 
> i use granular organic ferts during summer with low about .25-.50 #N/M. I want the soil microbes to digest and process what they are able to and the grass take up what it needs, when it needs it - no forced top growth. Summer is a stress period for cool season grass. Maybe someone else will chime in for a foliar fert recommendation.
> 
> 
> 
> I have this. menards natural milo clone
Click to expand...

If your grass is not dormant and you want to feed it, yes you can use that slow release fert. I calculate that two 36 lb bags over 7M (M=thousand) will give you .41 #N per M low rate.


----------



## TopsfieldLawnNewbie

Need help. I did a heavy overseed last year using Super Seed store SS5500 blend. Results were awesome, however I started getting large brown spots of matted down grass a few weeks ago, seemingly out of nowhere. The brown patches are in areas that get 100% sun. Here is the before and after of one section. The first photo was taken June 18, the second was taken a few days ago. In that time we had a week of 90+ degree weather. Does this look like heat/sun damage? It appears to be completely dead. I did not water at all. I live in Massachusetts. If this is in fact heat damage, any recommendations for a seed that could better handle full sun? The seed store recommended SS1000 mix.


----------



## Lust4Lawn

JerseyGreens said:


> For people following my journal I noted that I'm dealing with some disease type issues and riding it out...I'm to the point where I just don't like the look...FYI: I have to get some SOP down ASAP as the limited amount of XGRN (8-1-8), and foliar phosphites isn't getting me to the levels I should be at.
> 
> It's getting progressively worse at this point and I need some advice.
> 
> Here is a picture:
> 
> 
> 
> From that view its not that bad as only some leaf blades have been hit, others look OK.
> 
> Last preventative fungicide Apps:
> 31 days ago: 2oz per K Propi
> 16 days ago: 0.77oz per K Azoxy
> 
> Clearys (plus maybe a propi mix) is going to be the next up in my arsenal but want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Thanks gang.


I've got something similar going on in my Bluebank.


----------



## JerseyGreens

Whoever helps ID @Lust4Lawn issues will be helping me as well! Anyone?


----------



## Easyluck

TopsfieldLawnNewbie said:


> Need help. I did a heavy overseed last year using Super Seed store SS5500 blend. Results were awesome, however I started getting large brown spots of matted down grass a few weeks ago, seemingly out of nowhere. The brown patches are in areas that get 100% sun. Here is the before and after of one section. The first photo was taken June 18, the second was taken a few days ago. In that time we had a week of 90+ degree weather. Does this look like heat/sun damage? It appears to be completely dead. I did not water at all. I live in Massachusetts. If this is in fact heat damage, any recommendations for a seed that could better handle full sun? The seed store recommended SS1000 mix.


Check for bugs. Soapy water test. Could be billbugs or grubs.


----------



## Glen_Cove_5511

Cut the lawn this afternoon and saw one small area that has a fungus. On June 26th I sprayed the preventative rate of Azoxy. What do you think this is and should I spray Azoxy again now? Thanks!


----------



## g-man

@Lust4Lawn first one I cant id. The second one is a tough one. It is agelenopsis.


----------



## tgreen

Glen_Cove_5511 said:


>


This is definitely disease. Keep your eye on this and let me know if it expands. Is this lawn recently established, i.e., within the past 2 years?

You sprayed azoxy at the high, 28 day rate? If so, I would not reapply now.

It is unlikely but the lesions looks a little like gray leaf spot. If I were betting, I'd say 5% chance. It's not common on tall fescue but can happen on newer fescue stands. It's more common on perennial rye. GLS is a late summer disease and it still a little early to see it but possible.

It can wipe out your entire stand very quickly as I found out a few years ago. Again, it's not at all common but let me know if that spot starts expanding. It can be immune to azoxystrobin. There are other options, however.

Here are some pics from my yard a few years ago after the disease was well established. I first noticed a few spots around this time of year but did not think anything of it at the time.

It could also just be brown patch which is extremely common at this time of year on tall fescue. The azoxy should have prevented this though so maybe you just missed a spot with the spray? I know it's a pain in the @ss but it's not a bad idea to send a sample to a lab. If it is GLS, you want to know that immediately.

Here is an article with some great pics of brown patch and GLS on tall fescue. You can see the difference in the lesions which is what makes me think the pic you show could be GLS vs BP

https://turfpathology.ces.ncsu.edu/2020/09/struggling-with-gray-leaf-spot-in-tall-fescue/


----------



## Glen_Cove_5511

Thanks for the reply @tgreen... This is a new lawn that was seeded last fall. I'm officially worried based on the info you provided.


----------



## tgreen

Glen_Cove_5511 said:


> Thanks for the reply @tgreen... This is a new lawn that was seeded last fall. I'm officially worried based on the info you provided.


OK, so based on the time of year, the shape and color of the lesions and the fact that this is a juvenile stand I think you need to proceed as if this is GLS. I would do a couple things right away. 1) stop watering. I know this is tough but GLS spreads through leaf wetness. Nothing you can do about rain and dew. 2) send a sample to a turf pathology lab. You can look up your local state university and they normally have extension offices across the state. Look for instructions on how to submit a sample. You really want to confirm definitively because 1) the remedies are a little drastic and 2) you're probably at greater risk in future years although that is not 100% certain.

You'll want to use other chemicals in addition to azoxystrobin. Below is a link to a fungicide rotation for GLS from Bayer. It's meant for professional turf managers and many of the products are not labeled residential. This is where you need to make some decisions on what you are willing to do.

https://www.environmentalscience.bayer.us/turf-and-ornamentals-management/golf-course-management/talking-turf/gray-leaf-spot

There are a couple chemicals to use with GLS that is resistant to azoxystrobin. Those are chlorothalonil and thiophonate-methly (T-methyl). The former is not labeled for home lawns and the latter is. I won't get into a big discussion on whether chlorothalonil is safe but would note it's available in big box stores as Daconil. That label allows you to spray it on your vegetables but not your residential lawn. So, you need to decide if you're comfortable using it.

The other chemicals in the Bayer rotation include: tebuconazole (a DMI class fungicide that Lee Butler references in that link I gave you) and some form of a strobilurin, e.g., azoxystrobin.

So, I can't exactly recommend it but if it were me, I would use a product called Enclave which is a 4 way fungiced containing chlorothalonil, ipriodione, tebuconazole and t-methyl. I would apply that immediately on the entire yard and I would re-apply every 14 days. I would keep up treatments until frost. That's a long time, I know. The only question is whether you would want to rotate azoxystrobin into the rotation at some point. Typically, you would want a rotation partner but if you look at the Lee Butler article I referenced, he seems to suggest no rotation is needed. Furthermore, to my knowledge, there is no known resistance to chlorothalonil so you may be OK just going with the Enclave.

https://www.domyown.com/enclave-flowable-fungicide-p-13576.html

If you are not comfortable with these chemicals then I would at least get the t-methyl down and cross your fingers. T-methyl is not particularly effective on brown patch but the research says it is good for GLS. I personally found t-methyl was not enough in my situation but the disease was well established by the time I figured out what was going on and applied the t-methyl.

One last thing to keep in mind is that unlike brown patch, GLS will stick around until you get a frost. That means that trying to overseed in the Fall with active GLS is likely to fail. What you are likely to find is the seed will germinate but the seedlings will succumb to the GLS very quickly.

Good luck and let me know if any questions.


----------



## g-man

You can also get it tested a UT pathology lab. I'm on the fence between GLS or BP. Maybe more images can help.


----------



## Glen_Cove_5511

Thanks @tgreen and @g-man. There's a lot to consider here. I went by Lesco today and the guys there looked at my pictures and thought it was brown patch. They recommended Eagle granular. I'll get some more pictures later this afternoon once that area is in shade. Thanks for the advice!


----------



## Glen_Cove_5511

I have some Clearys 3336. Would that be a good option to spray?


----------



## tgreen

Glen_Cove_5511 said:


> I have some Clearys 3336. Would that be a good option to spray?


OK, let us know what happens. Hopefully, it's just BP. Clearys is a brand name and t-mehtyl is the active ingredient in it. I would definitely put that down. It's not very good for BP but would be good if it's GLS. The azoxystrobin should have halted any BP outbreak but maybe you missed a spot.

I don't want to contradict the Lesco people but Eagle/myclobutanil is not known to be good for BP. That's also my personal experience. Give it a shot though if you have it. Here's a good article on BP with research on fungicides

https://www.plantpath.k-state.edu/extension/documents/turf/Brown%20patch%20%20homeowners%202016.pdf

Last tip - I'd really still encourage you to send in a sample. If you do, definitely collect the sample BEFORE you spray anything.


----------



## Lust4Lawn

g-man said:


> @Lust4Lawn first one I cant id. The second one is a tough one. It is agelenopsis.


Sometimes I have to laugh. When I took the photos of the spider webs I was rushing to work and now clearly I see the webs. Thanks for the feedback!


----------



## Glen_Cove_5511

Thanks @tgreen I do have Eagle now. I also bagged a core sample with my pro plugger.

If you don't mind, would you tell me what my apps should look like today and tomorrow? This morning, I sprayed the entire lawn with .37 oz./1,000 Azoxy. I have granular Eagle and Clearys 3336. With those on hand, should I put down the Eagle at 4 lbs./1,000 and the Clearys at 6 fl. oz./1,000 at the same time?


----------



## tgreen

Glen_Cove_5511 said:


> Thanks @tgreen I do have Eagle now. I also bagged a core sample with my pro plugger.
> 
> If you don't mind, would you tell me what my apps should look like today and tomorrow? This morning, I sprayed the entire lawn with .37 oz./1,000 Azoxy. I have granular Eagle and Clearys 3336. With those on hand, should I put down the Eagle at 4 lbs./1,000 and the Clearys at 6 fl. oz./1,000 at the same time?


OK, hoping you took the sample before spraying the azoxy.

You just did the high rate on the azoxy. If it's brown patch, that should be all you need. It's not going to bring back the damaged leaf blades but it should stop any further development. Some GLS can be resistant to azoxy so that chemical may or may not work on GLS. Last thing to know about azoxy is you should only use it 3 consecutive times before you need to rotate to another chemical to avoid resistance.

If it's GLS, you'd want the Clearys down asap/tomorrow. You want to look at the label. I took a screenshot of what I think you have. I would do the high rate of 6oz/k on 14 day interval, like you said.

For the eagle, I'd say look at the bag and put it down whenever you want. Not trying to be a wise guy but that product didn't do anything for me on either BP or GLS. I've used it on both. If you wanted to put it down tomorrow you could.

I just thought of something that might help you ID the disease. With brown patch, you can often see mycelium early in the morning with dew formation. Look at the pics this guy posted recently of what mycelium looks like (see link). If you see mycelium then it's NOT GLS. Don't confuse mycelium with spider webs though.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=30040&p=412840&hilit


----------



## Glen_Cove_5511

I did get the sample before I sprayed Azoxy. Good idea, I'll look at the area in the morning and see if there's any mycelium. No need to put down Clearys unless I need to. Here are some additional pictures of the area.


----------



## Matthew_73

That is what mine is looking like... Unsure of the far away pics... But the close up ones... As I type we got 2" of rain and 5 more inches coming....


----------



## g-man

@Glen_Cove_5511










- source: https://turfpathology.ces.ncsu.edu/2020/09/struggling-with-gray-leaf-spot-in-tall-fescue/
From Jim Kerns (one of the guys that made the DS model) and Lee Butler (fungus expert).

The dots in the last images you posted look more like GLS to me, but I'm no expert.


----------



## Matthew_73

Matthew_73 said:


>


@g-man

So I am assuming this is BP?


----------



## g-man

I can't tell.


----------



## Glen_Cove_5511

Thanks @g-man... hopefully the Azoxy, Clearys and Eagle will keep it at bay.


----------



## massgrass

Haven't seen this before, but seeing lots of small mushrooms growing on grass blades causing brown patches. We've had lots of rain (6"+ in the past week alone, 3.5" over Memorial Day weekend, etc.) plus wild temperature swings since June with two heat waves mixed with periods having temps in the 50-60 degree range.

I threw down some Disease Ex this week in between rain storms, but don't know what else I can do since I typically only have minor red thread problems


----------



## Atlantico

I have newly seeded tall fescue lawn in NJ. I have some fungus last week which I treated with heritage G and Propiconazole 14.3 with no success. I need the lawn experts here for indication of the fungus.
Thanks


----------



## tgreen

Atlantico said:


> I have newly seeded tall fescue lawn in NJ. I have some fungus last week which I treated with heritage G and Propiconazole 14.3 with no success. I need the lawn experts here for indication of the fungus.
> Thanks


Is this the only spot? When did you run the heritage and propy? You definitely hit this area with the fungicide?

That looks like mycelium but not 100% clear. Did you take the pic in the morning when there was still dew on the grass? Any other pics?


----------



## Heet8792

I have white fuzz in the morning in small patches with some dieoff all over the yard. It seems to only be there after the irrigation runs in the morning or after a rain. Some of the grass seems to die/pull right out with a rake in these spots. I know I was overwatering and watering incorrectly. I have since fixed that. The lawn is relatively new (less than a year). I am wondering if i should put down a fungicide and which one or just let it run its course and hit It hard with N in the fall. These spots first appeared about 3 weeks ago.


----------



## tgreen

Heet8792 said:


> I have white fuzz in the morning in small patches with some dieoff all over the yard. It seems to only be there after the irrigation runs in the morning or after a rain. Some of the grass seems to die/pull right out with a rake in these spots. I know I was overwatering and watering incorrectly. I have since fixed that. The lawn is relatively new (less than a year). I am wondering if i should put down a fungicide and which one or just let it run its course and hit It hard with N in the fall. These spots first appeared about 3 weeks ago.


If the damage is limited and you've corrected the watering issue, I would skip the fungicide since you are so close to the seeding window. I'm not familiar with average temps in MN in August but would think you could overseed damage starting in a month or less? Maybe someone from your geo can give the window.


----------



## Jeff_MI84

I just noticed this earlier today, but did not see it yesterday. Does it look like melting out, brown patch or urine damage? I tugged on some blades and they did not come out.


----------



## Nashvillerookie

I have *** here in Nashville (sodded October 2020). Despite the heat and no rain it's been looking great with regular irrigation ... until this spot. I've only been using Carbon G since May and regular treatments of Heritage G (extra on this spot). It's even worse now and spreading. Any advice on identifying the issue would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Jeff_MI84

@Nashvillerookie 
It looks like either necrotic ring spot or brown patch because the grass is still green in the center.


----------



## NJ-lawn

Looks like I have the start of dollar spot. Not sure what to use, I have Propi but I also been spraying a high does of pgr @ .75/1M so now I'm concerned I'll stress it out from what I read on another thread.

I been use a biofungicide weekly but not sure how good it is as curative. My next app of pgr is early Aug…..I'll bump it back to .5


----------



## Nashvillerookie

Jeff_MI84 said:


> @Nashvillerookie
> It looks like either necrotic ring spot or brown patch because the grass is still green in the center.


Thanks for the feedback ... I agree. Will Heritage G knock it out? If so, how often should I apply or should I use something else.


----------



## Nashvillerookie

Nashvillerookie said:


> Jeff_MI84 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Nashvillerookie
> It looks like either necrotic ring spot or brown patch because the grass is still green in the center.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the feedback ... I agree. Will Heritage G knock it out? If so, how often should I apply or should I use something else.
Click to expand...

Correction ... I've been using Headway.


----------



## Jeff_MI84

Oh okay. Headway G is supposed to be pretty good. I would think using the curative rate for 28 days would help it from getting worse. If this would be your second consecutive application of Headway G, after that would need to switch to another product with a different active ingredient.


----------



## Neville Park

Looking for some help and hoping I'm in the right place.

5wks ago I installed KBG mixed sod from elite local turf farmer.

My first searches lead me to: Fungus or overwatering?


Red - help identify area.
Yellow - diluted dog pee burn
Blue - scalped perimeter trying to cut at 0.6" like the newb I am 🤣


Photo focusing on the leaf damage


Photo focusing on the grass between canopy and thatch(?)

Thanks for any suggestions


----------



## tgreen

Neville Park said:


> 5wks ago I installed KBG mixed sod from elite local turf farmer.


It looks like brown patch but that's uncommon on KBG. Do you know the cultivar? Is this Barenbrug HGT?

Fungus or overwatering? Overwatering can lead to fungus.


----------



## Nashvillerookie

Jeff_MI84 said:


> Oh okay. Headway G is supposed to be pretty good. I would think using the curative rate for 28 days would help it from getting worse. If this would be your second consecutive application of Headway G, after that would need to switch to another product with a different active ingredient.


Good deal. Really appreciate it.


----------



## Camman595

I am thinking this is brown patch in my mother's lawn. Do you agree?


----------



## Jeff_MI84

@Camman595 possibly yes. It kind of looks like it.


----------



## KBush123

Hello all, I have had a trouble patch in my front yard lately. We have had an insane amount or rain over the last 2 months and on the rare occasions we haven't, I irrigate that area. I fertilized with Milo about 8 weeks ago, and about a week ago I put down 10-0-20 lesco. Neither of my neighbors have had any issues at all, they both use tru green. Im thinking this is brown patch, but just was hoping to get some opinions to confirm that as well as some recommendations to correct it. Thanks!


----------



## davegravy

Could be caused by rocks or other debris in the soil. Poke something in there to see if there's any obstructions.


----------



## M32075

Looks like fungus to me. The last week has been perfect weather for a fungus outbreak


----------



## g-man

It does not look like BP. No smoke ring and no circular pattern. This looks like a straight line from a fertilizer over application.


----------



## tgreen

Nashvillerookie said:


> I have KBG here in Nashville (sodded October 2020). Despite the heat and no rain it's been looking great with regular irrigation ... until this spot. I've only been using Carbon G since May and regular treatments of Heritage G (extra on this spot). It's even worse now and spreading. Any advice on identifying the issue would be greatly appreciated.


I get a couple of these same spots in my yard and have been trying to figure it out for years. I think it's pythium root rot. You mentioned you've been watering regularly. Is this area getting more water than the rest? The two spots in my yard get a lot of water from driveway runoff. Something to think about.

PS I've never dealt with necrotic ring spot first hand but thought that disease was associated with cool weather.

https://www.k-state.edu/turf/resources/lawn-problem-solver/problem-solver/dead-patches/pythium/


----------



## The Lawnfather

I've got some eagle, will this cure?


----------



## tgreen

The Lawnfather said:


> I've got some eagle, will this cure?


Looks like brown patch. Looks like the mycelium are on the tall fescue. More pictures might help but that's what I think.

Here's a good article on it. See the end of page 1 for fungicide discussion. Azoxystrobin is the ingredient in Scott's Diseasex.

https://www.plantpath.k-state.edu/extension/documents/turf/Brown%20patch%20%20homeowners%202016.pdf


----------



## Jonslawn

I have noticed this throughout the summer but has seemed to have gotten worse this past week that's noticeable now the lawn almost looks to be going dormant but we have had tons of rain an cool weather in Ontario this last few weeks an I've noticed what appears to be a fungus. I first thought rust, an now looks like leaf spot as well. I don't have any rust coming off on my shoes and I tried taking a white paper towel to it yesterday with no stains on it but it is definitely something. Most things I read say to keep lawn tall which I am always around 3.5-4". I just hit it with .5lb of nitrogen last night since today rained all day and my soil is deficient in potassium and phosphorous so I threw down some 5-20-20 as well last night.

If anyone could identify this it would be a huge help! Also Canadian so the fungicides are not available up here other than ordering through seedworld but trying to avoid that if possible!


----------



## Jonslawn

I believe it's rust fungus!


----------



## g-man

Jonslawn said:


> I believe it's rust fungus!


I'm pretty sure that's a mower. The mower was used in an area with rust fungus.


----------



## Jonslawn

g-man said:


> Jonslawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I believe it's rust fungus!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure that's a mower. The mower was used in an area with rust fungus.
Click to expand...

Thanks for clearing that up Gman! 
Any recommendations on the rust fungus?


----------



## g-man

The fungicide guide has a list of options.


----------



## Master2025

Hello folks, glad to find this forum and this thread. I ripped out some northern maples this spring, removed as much of the roots as well as I could and seeded new grass. Things were going pretty well until these areas (which I admittedly over watered to get the newly seeded areas going), started to go sideways.

Thinking it might be brown spot, I put down BioAdvanced at curative rate a week ago. Bag said to repeat in 2 weeks, so intend to but it just seems to be getting worse.

Do I have it wrong?

Thx!


----------



## g-man

Conditions are perfect for Pythium Blight (PB). The dew point was a 77F this morning for my area. Most of us had a dry/hot period in our lawns. Now we seem to have a hot/muggy/rainy days. Even with your irrigation setup perfectly, the roots of your lawn did suffer and caused some damage to the lawn. Keep an eye out for PB.

PB is bad and fast. By the time to notice, take a picture to get fungus ID and get the product to treat, you are too late. Mefenoxam and cyazofamid are the ideal choice, but $$$. Azoxy is not great against PB.

Prevention ideas:

Avoid mowing wet grass. It spread it. 
Avoid irrigation and only do it in the am.
Avoid nitrogen
Phosphites foliar can be used as a preventive but it wont cure.
It might be cheaper to just get seeds


----------



## Robs92k

g-man said:


> Conditions are perfect for Pythium Blight (PB). The dew point was a 77F this morning for my area. Most of us had a dry/hot period in our lawns. Now we seem to have a hot/muggy/rainy days. Even with your irrigation setup perfectly, the roots of your lawn did suffer and caused some damage to the lawn. Keep an eye out for PB.
> 
> PB is bad and fast. By the time to notice, take a picture to get fungus ID and get the product to treat, you are too late. Mefenoxam and cyazofamid are the ideal choice, but $$$. Azoxy is not great against PB.
> 
> Prevention ideas:
> 
> Avoid mowing wet grass. It spread it.
> Avoid irrigation and only do it in the am.
> Avoid nitrogen
> Phosphites foliar can be used as a preventive but it wont cure.
> It might be cheaper to just get seeds


Just read up…we've had a lot of evening rain…my HOC is taller, but I assume still vulnerable…

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/bp/bp-109-w.pdf

Thx @g-man


----------



## 7824

What am I dealing with here? Pythium? The last two pictures show the blade as soon as the mycelium appears. It's greyish. Then it goes through the brown/yellow spotting phase.


----------



## 7824




----------



## Carlson

Those mycelium webs look pretty pythium-y, yep. Any that look like wet tissue blobs or gray cotton candy?


----------



## 7824

They look like cotton balls. I just snapped these picturs. Azoxy has done little to curtail this disease after two full dose applications 28 days apart. This area of my lawn has been on a preventative program since early May. I've rotated azoxy, prop, and clearys.


----------



## g-man

@learningeveryday two post above yours it explains how to deal with PB.


----------



## 7824

Thank you. I am up to date with latest techniques and chemicals that prevent and/or cure PB. I wanted to confirm it was PB first.

I have Mefenoxam on hand luckily.


----------



## g-man

A wider area view of the lawn might help confirm it is not BP (smoke ring circles?). There is a lot of brown leaves in the images that look to be from drought or something prior. The gray looking cotton does look like PB.


----------



## 7824

Various stages of disease in this area, from just starting to recovering. Had some BP in mid July in this area. It's been 95+ and max humidity with evening storms this week.


----------



## Joehock57

Trying to help neighbor identify what's going on in his lawn. Looks like fungus, or death from fungus. Inspecting the blades everything pulls up very easily and is seemingly decayed. What's odd though is the death in bunch form. Could this just be certain cultivars dying off? He has a mix of *** rye and fescue. Tia!


----------



## Zcape35

I've been dealing with some Fungi this year. I thought this might make it easier to identify for you guys. Thank you for any help
This is in KBG
Tips are also shredding after a mow (sharp blade)
There are a bunch of these patches in all different sizes. I have Azoxy on hand to spray


----------



## dad311

Been noticing some brown spots in the lawn, this morning after last night's rain, I'm seeing fuzzy stuff on the grass blades. Is this mold??


----------



## g-man

No. This is a fungus. I'm moving to the fungus Id. DS, BP or PB.


----------



## Factor

The first photo looks like rust fungus to me.


----------



## YEM

This might be the same as @dad311's above. 2 weeks ago I used the curative rate Of the BioAdvanced fungus control (propiconazole)thinking this was dollar spot. Before doing that again today, I figured I'd try to confirm that ID here.


----------



## rpb92

Brown patch? Maybe necrotic ring spot? I sure hope not. Appreciate any insights!


----------



## outdoorsmen

Phylium blight?


----------



## thin_concrete

Looks like I have a little PB brewing, but with Ida coming in (today, locally), I'm not going to spray anything until the storm clears through tomorrow morning.

My question relates to my planned overseed over the long weekend - can I proceed if I apply the max recommended single dose of Azoxy (no time to order Fosentyl-AL) and just keep following up? I have my compost being delivered and spread on Tuesday, so I'm between a rock and a hard place, as it were. I also have Clearys 3336F and Propiconazole (which I understand to be ineffective with PB).

Thanks!


----------



## g-man

For PB, you need to remove the moisture. But with an overseed, you will be watering. I would try to provide some fungicide that *works* against PB the day you drop seeds.


----------



## thin_concrete

g-man said:


> For PB, you need to remove the moisture. But with an overseed, you will be watering. I would try to provide some fungicide that *works* against PB the day you drop seeds.


Thanks, @g-man - I appreciate it. Do you foresee any issues with spraying on the soil where I just dropped seed? Should I get something granular for better coverage? Any products you recommend that can be purchased at a local big box store?


----------



## gllong0808

Folks what am I dealing with here - Summer Patch? Brown Patch. Despite treating with Azoxystrobin, Propiconazole the areas have gotten worse. Lawn is TTTF; irrigated over a very hot DRY humid Maryland summer this year.

Infected areas have turned to from a bronze color to color of straw. Blades easily pull out of soil.

Thoughts? Plan of action? Rake out and reseed?

Thanks for any input


----------



## gllong0808

Any feedback on previous post and photos would be greatly appreciated


----------



## g-man

It doesn't look like fungus. Check for pests (eg. Armyworms, grubs)


----------



## Macosart

It looks a lot like what I have. YEM's post really look like what I have. I think it's brown patch. On my lawn, I was trying to figure out if I had brown patch, or pythium blight. I would assume if I had pythium blight, it would have spread faster. I definitely noticed an odor from my fungus. I think it smells like a herbicide. It seems to kill off the ryegrass and fine fescue, but the bluegrass appears to be taking over in the spots where I have the fungus. The infected areas will have a slight tint of brown, then turn a little more yellow, then it turns to the light straw color. Some yellow areas will have a slightly darker border where, I believe, the fungus is still active. I also had mycelium if there was morning dew. I did have some mycelium on the side of my house that is 100% KBG, and the fungus never had any negative results on that area. I think it was just a bad season in MN to keep the grass looking good with the hot and humid weather. I did do a couple preventative fungicide applications of propiconazole. After I figured it was brown patch, I put down Scott's DiseaseX a few weeks ago and followed up today with a liquid application of Abound (Azoxystrobin 22.9%) at 0.75 oz per 1000 square feet. The DiseaseX seemed to help more than the propiconazole.

Just a side note, I played a couple golf tournaments last week at Majestic Oaks in Minnesota and I noticed that same smell I have in my lawn on a few holes. Once you know the smell, you never forget it. Hope this helps.


----------



## gllong0808

Thanks g-man, I checked for grubs even though I treated earlier in the year and no grubs. I will look into army worms. Plan too rake out the areas of spot seed.


----------



## Ham

Hi All - Looking for a little direction on a couple areas that are starting to show die off and lesions on "healthy" plants after a week or two of consistent rain and humid evenings. I haven't seen any rust colored residue on my mower or shoes, no visible mycelium, and it doesn't seem to be forming rings or patches. Its appearance is fairly consistent in my front yard. Could this be leaf spot?

Earlier in the week I put down about .6 lbs of N/1k via urea. About a week ago I put down some propiconazole at a preventative rate. Thoughts?


----------



## td_05

Hello I have a few spots that are circular in appearance and different areas of my yard. Some of the areas affected receive full sun while others much more shade

WE've had a tough dry summer but finally cooling down and got a good bit of rain recently, my yard is regularly irrigated

The yard has been regularly fertilized, just started the blitz 2 weeks ago, the marks in question proceeded start of blitz.

Three days ago, maybe 10 hours before heavy rain I applied a healthy dose of bayer hose end sprayer fungicide. I still haven't seen much of an improvement 
Here are some pics

What is it and how can I kill it / fix it?

Thank You All...

Pics

spot 1





spot 2


----------



## Alowan

Anyone know if this is fungus or just dead grass for some reason. 30 day Old lawn that currently are watered twice daily. Doesn't look that bad but it is semi widespread.





General overview (not that visible but there are some patches that grow better where it doesn't seem to be):


----------



## thin_concrete

thin_concrete said:


> Looks like I have a little PB brewing, but with Ida coming in (today, locally), I'm not going to spray anything until the storm clears through tomorrow morning.
> 
> My question relates to my planned overseed over the long weekend - can I proceed if I apply the max recommended single dose of Azoxy (no time to order Fosentyl-AL) and just keep following up? I have my compost being delivered and spread on Tuesday, so I'm between a rock and a hard place, as it were. I also have Clearys 3336F and Propiconazole (which I understand to be ineffective with PB).
> 
> Thanks!


*Rather than start a new thread*, I figured that I could probably get some guidance here.

So I did put seed down this past weekend and spread compost yesterday. I've been watering 3 times a day for 5-15 per zone, depending on where the zone is (heavily shaded v. full sun). My Mefenoxam came in this morning and I'm stumped as to whether or not I should still put it down since PB is root based. However, will spraying Mefenoxam impair the value of the compost that I put down? Could the Mefenoxam impair the seed's ability to germinate? I put down Titan RX TTTF throughout the lawn if that matters at all. I *did not* put down the Azoxy or Clearys that I have.

Thanks all!


----------



## SweLawn

Newly seeded kbg midnight.

What typ of fungs is this ? And what fungicide should I use? I have chlorothalonil, Azoxystrobin, fludioxonil ond luna sensation (Fluopyram/Trifloxystrobin)

Seeded for a out one month ago, Photoshop taken earl murning.


----------



## g-man

Have you fertilize this lawn? What's your phosphorus levels? From your list, i would use azozy, but don't rule out a nutrient deficiencies.


----------



## SweLawn

g-man said:


> Have you fertilize this lawn? What's your phosphorus levels? From your list, i would use azozy, but don't rule out a nutrient deficiencies.


I used a seedstarter fertilizer about 3 weeks ago: Total N 8 % Ammonium 3,75 % Urea 1,8 % P 6 % K 7,5%

I plan to apply a liquid nitrogen fertilizer this weekend, (exept from the pictures above the lawn/germenation looks great) should I wait with the fertilizer until i have taking care of the fungsissue?


----------



## g-man

Do both. I'm not sure it is a fungus. It looked like red thread, but it could also be phosphorus deficiency. I think you should use more of the starter fertilizer.


----------



## drcolossus11

Should rust be treated with a foliar or root application? I have been battling this for awhile now. Treated with Azoxy and Cleary's 3336F at curative rates, but after this last mow I am seeing it again. I tried pushing some growth with .5 lbs of N, but still not able to get this under control.


----------



## g-man

I'm biased to foliar unless it is a root issue. Rust is not a root issue.


----------



## situman

Is Azoxy or Propi good for treating powdery mildew? I got this white powdery substance on my grass blades since its been so wet from all the storms over the last 3 weeks, plus light watering to get seeds to germinate.


----------



## g-man

Check the fungicide guide.


----------



## drcolossus11

g-man said:


> I'm biased to foliar unless it is a root issue. Rust is not a root issue.


Thanks @g-man! I'm gonna go ahead and apply prop at a curative rate. Should have just done that when I first saw it…


----------



## rmengel

Hey guys, I think I have powdery mildew showing up among my new KBG seedlings, but I want to get some confirmation from the experts. Here it is:


----------



## g-man

Did you use milo recently?


----------



## rmengel

g-man said:


> Did you use milo recently?


Nope - I did a super light app of synthetic 10-10-10 on 8-28ish, then seed down and tenacity on 9/2. Nothing but water since


----------



## Lawn Noob

SweLawn said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> Have you fertilize this lawn? What's your phosphorus levels? From your list, i would use azozy, but don't rule out a nutrient deficiencies.
> 
> 
> 
> I used a seedstarter fertilizer about 3 weeks ago: Total N 8 % Ammonium 3,75 % Urea 1,8 % P 6 % K 7,5%
> 
> I plan to apply a liquid nitrogen fertilizer this weekend, (exept from the pictures above the lawn/germenation looks great) should I wait with the fertilizer until i have taking care of the fungsissue?
Click to expand...

I have something very similar in a bed I converted back to lawn about a month ago. It didn't seem to slow its roll until I got azoxystrobin down. 3336 and propiconazole didn't seem to phase it. The weather also cooled down a bit too, so that makes it a bit harder to know what's slowing the condition down. I put down 10-10-10 two weeks ago.


----------



## Skankhunt42

So this morning I noticed patches of this stuff in various places in my recently planted lawn. Any idea what this stuff is.?.?.


----------



## thin_concrete

Skankhunt42 said:


> So this morning I noticed patches of this stuff in various places in my recently planted lawn. Any idea what this stuff is.?.?.


Could it be pythium blight? I was dealing with the same earlier this year and it looked similar and it obliterated my lawn quickly. I don't know what your weather is like right now though. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in. Here's a link that I found that may be helpful for your reference:

https://getlawnstar.com/blog/lawn-fungus-identification-guide/


----------



## Skankhunt42

thin_concrete said:


> Skankhunt42 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So this morning I noticed patches of this stuff in various places in my recently planted lawn. Any idea what this stuff is.?.?.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could it be pythium blight? I was dealing with the same earlier this year and it looked similar and it obliterated my lawn quickly. I don't know what your weather is like right now though. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in. Here's a link that I found that may be helpful for your reference:
> 
> https://getlawnstar.com/blog/lawn-fungus-identification-guide/
Click to expand...

I have no idea, I'm a lawntard. I'll definitely check into that though. Weather has been cool but spiked back up hot this last week. I've also been watering a lot because there are other spots that are coming in slower. Maybe I need to cut back on the water.


----------



## thin_concrete

Skankhunt42 said:


> thin_concrete said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skankhunt42 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So this morning I noticed patches of this stuff in various places in my recently planted lawn. Any idea what this stuff is.?.?.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could it be pythium blight? I was dealing with the same earlier this year and it looked similar and it obliterated my lawn quickly. I don't know what your weather is like right now though. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in. Here's a link that I found that may be helpful for your reference:
> 
> https://getlawnstar.com/blog/lawn-fungus-identification-guide/
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have no idea, I'm a lawntard. I'll definitely check into that though. Weather has been cool but spiked back up hot this last week. I've also been watering a lot because there are other spots that are coming in slower. Maybe I need to cut back on the water.
Click to expand...

Looking back on it, I had a lot of moisture in shaded areas and that contributed to it, though I recall seeing it in my neighbor's yard before I saw it in mine. In any event, my lawn was conducive to its spread.

I overseeded a couple weeks ago and heavily scaled back the watering because I was concerned about fungus. I put down some Azoxy this afternoon as a preventive, but we're getting a freak storm now so I'll have to reapply tomorrow afternoon after things dry out. I'll put down the Mefenoxam I have tomorrow just in case PB has returned.


----------



## Lawn Noob

thin_concrete said:


> Skankhunt42 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thin_concrete said:
> 
> 
> 
> Could it be pythium blight? I was dealing with the same earlier this year and it looked similar and it obliterated my lawn quickly. I don't know what your weather is like right now though. Hopefully someone with more experience can chime in. Here's a link that I found that may be helpful for your reference:
> 
> https://getlawnstar.com/blog/lawn-fungus-identification-guide/
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea, I'm a lawntard. I'll definitely check into that though. Weather has been cool but spiked back up hot this last week. I've also been watering a lot because there are other spots that are coming in slower. Maybe I need to cut back on the water.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looking back on it, I had a lot of moisture in shaded areas and that contributed to it, though I recall seeing in my neighbor's yard before I saw it mine. In any event, my lawn had was conducive to its spread.
> 
> I overseeded a couple weeks ago and heavily scaled back the watering because I was concerned about fungus. I put down some Azoxy this afternoon as a preventive, but we're getting a freak storm now so I'll have to reapply tomorrow afternoon after things dry out. I'll put down the Mefenoxam I have tomorrow just in case PB has returned.
Click to expand...

Rain washing in the Azoxystrobin should be fine. Lots of folks water it in anyhow.


----------



## thin_concrete

Lawn Noob said:


> Rain washing in the Azoxystrobin should be fine. Lots of folks water it in anyhow.


Good to know - thanks!


----------



## Camman595

Two days ago I noticed a fungus growing in my Reno. Yesterday, I blanket sprayed the lawn with Propiconazole (and sprayable urea, if that makes a difference). Today (about 20 hours after spraying) the mycelium is more prevalent than it was before. Does that mean that the Propiconazole did not work? I also have Azoxy 2SC, should I go ahead and spray that as well?

I apologize for the noob question, I have never treated for fungus before. I am sure my lawn had some, but I did not realize it.

By the way, from the photos, can you identify the fungus? The grass is a 3 way blend of TTTF.

One day before spraying


One day after spraying


----------



## g-man

That looks like PB. You need to use a fungicide that works against it and back off from watering (eg. keeping the grass wet at night)


----------



## jedross86

PB?


----------



## Camman595

g-man said:


> That looks like PB. You need to use a fungicide that works against it and back off from watering (eg. keeping the grass wet at night)


Thanks. I just sprayed Azoxy 2SC at .756oz/1k. Hopefully, that will take care of it.


----------



## jedross86

I sprayed Mefenexom for mine. If someone thinks its something else I have Propi and Clearys I can treat with as well. Otherwise I'll wait a bit and spray some urea/clearys later this week.


----------



## Chris12212

Hey. In the process of figuring out what this grass or weed is i was told i have fungal lesions on the whatever it is. Noticing it now along one side of my lawn. Any help figuring out what it is and what i could spray to kill it?


----------



## Camman595

g-man said:


> That looks like PB. You need to use a fungicide that works against it and back off from watering (eg. keeping the grass wet at night)


I sprayed Azoxy 2SC yesterday afternoon and it appears to have worked. I did not see the mycelium this morning (although it was before sunrise). Thanks for your quick response.


----------



## g-man

Azoxy is not the best for PB. Keep monitoring, but weather is turning better.


----------



## Skankhunt42

g-man said:


> Azoxy is not the best for PB. Keep monitoring, but weather is turning better.


What is the best for PB? That looks like the same stuff I'm dealing with.


----------



## g-man

Fungicide Guide has all the options/rating.


----------



## Skankhunt42

10-4 good buddy.


----------



## jedross86

jedross86 said:


> PB?


No mycelium this morning. Temps were as low as 50 overnight. Hopefully with the Mefenexom app and the cooler weather this is in my rear view soon.

For those of you who have had/are having similar issues - what is the recommendation on fertilizing? I'm about ready to start pushing some N but feel like I have read to pump the brakes on fert when you have disease pressure.


----------



## 1028mountain

I got this the first time I reno'd my entire yard and this past couple weeks I over seeded and seemed to be getting it again. New grass will turn dark, matt and die in certain spots and I don't know if its because those spots got too much water or something else entirely.

The first time it happened some of the guys thought it was gray leaf spot but its hard me to tell because the grass blades are so young and thin. I am about 17 days DAG of 90/10 TTTF/KBG and stopped all watering last Friday when I noticed it.

Anyone have any idea what could be causing this? And what if anything I should do? Note in the first picture that spot was basically bare ground due to army worm damage.


----------



## Skankhunt42

So I'm looking around at mefenexom prices, and the cheapest I can find ( looking on the internet ) is a one gallon jug for like $185. &#128563;. It's called subdue maxx. Unfortunately it didn't seem that anything the big box store contained it.

Are there any cheaper options that anyone knows of?


----------



## Skankhunt42

I take that back, saw one for $133. Still more than I'd like to pay for something I only need a small amount of.


----------



## jedross86

That's cheap for a gallon! I think I paid ~$165 for a quart.


----------



## tgreen

1028mountain said:


> I got this the first time I reno'd my entire yard and this past couple weeks I over seeded and seemed to be getting it again. New grass will turn dark, matt and die in certain spots and I don't know if its because those spots got too much water or something else entirely.


I remember from your post a couple years ago https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=13951&p=226583#p226583

I also remember you kept us updated and thanked people for the help!!! Not everyone is like that :roll:

I do think that is GLS again, unfortunately. I put a couple arrows on your pics to the characteristic fish-hook of GLS. I also show the only pic I still have of confirmed GLS on seedlings from my stand a few years ago for comparison. Affected seedlings do not show signs at germination but succumb after about 3 weeks.

One other thing you could do to confirm ID is to look for mycelium (the white cottony stuff). Presence of mycelium would confirm that is NOT GLS and more likely pythium. Again though, your pics look like GLS to me.

In terms of options you could 1) spray chlorothalonil (not labeled for home lawns) or even better use Enclave which is a 4 way contact/systemic fungicide with chlorothalonil, t-methyl, ipriodione and tebuconazole, 2) seed KBG which is not affected by KBG or 3) try to time your TF seeding where first frost would arrive about 3 weeks after germination. Frost kills the GLS.


----------



## jedross86

Freaking out. Posted a couple pics a few days ago and had a couple of people say PB. I put down Mefenexom at the high rate Sunday afternoon. Sunday afternoon I noticed mycellium. I have checked 10 times since and no mycellium to be found since I sprayed. Yesterday I did not see the disease progress at all. This morning, there are 10 or 20 more spots like the lower pictures. Some completely dead already and some where the grass laid down and is starting to yellow. I watered in the mefenexom Sunday and have not watered since. Temps here during the day have been 70s and night has been 50s.

What am I dealing with and how do I save my reno? Paging @g-man!

Pic from Sunday:



Pics from this morning:


----------



## jimmythegreek

Do you have azoxy or propi on hand? In this situation I would throw the kitchen sink at it on curative rates of both to cover all bases and blanket spray. Spot treating is never a good idea not sure if that's what you did with the mefo or not


----------



## jedross86

Mefo I treated about 2/3s of the back. Ill treat the rest today since I think I have the same problem in one spot on the side yard.

And I do have Azoxy, Propi and Clearys on hand. If I do a mix of Azoxy and Propi, do I water it in for this?


----------



## SNOWBOB11

If it were me I would back off on watering and give the lawn a light nitrogen. I would also cut the grass. It looks way too long. Do azoxy as well if you have. The Mefenexom should stop the disease but you might need to re seed the dead areas unless you have enough KBG in the mix but from the picture I see a lot of rye and fescue.

I don't believe propi is labeled for PB. I'd stick with azoxy for now.


----------



## jedross86

Thanks @SNOWBOB11. I just cut Sunday. First pic was pre cut. Other pictures might be misleading but the grass is about 2.5 inches right now.

I have some Urea. Whats a light dose? And can I mix the two? Water in after?

Most of my *** probably washed out before germinating so I am not expecting anything to fill in.


----------



## 1028mountain

@tgreen it does look exactly like what happened with my first reno but this time not as bad. I read that "In general, azoxystrobin, pyraclostrobin, or fluoxastrobin applications will control gray leaf spot for 28 days. The other three fungicides will control the disease for 14 days" so could I use Disease-Ex to treat this? Its all I have on hand with azoxy in it. Reading online it says that Heritage is good against which contains the same amount of axozy as Disease-ex.


----------



## SNOWBOB11

jedross86 said:


> Thanks @SNOWBOB11. I just cut Sunday. First pic was pre cut. Other pictures might be misleading but the grass is about 2.5 inches right now.
> 
> I have some Urea. Whats a light dose? And can I mix the two? Water in after?
> 
> Most of my KBG probably washed out before germinating so I am not expecting anything to fill in.


I would give a 1/2lb urea per 1000 sqft so .23lb N per 1000. Yes I would water in after.


----------



## g-man

@jedross86 the images are too out of focus. Take images of the mycellium, take images of the overall area. Are you seeing the fungus in the treated areas or the untreated? Did you use curative rate?


----------



## jedross86

@g-man - tried to get some better photos. These all developed in the treated area overnight. I have one spot in an untreated area on my side yard. At lunch I'll get mefenexom down in the areas I didn't spray on Sunday. I sprayed the "curative" rate (believe my label just said .49 for low and .98 for high - so I sprayed .98oz/1k).

New dead grass:


The above is in the center of this picture. There are a bunch of bald spots here from washout and this area being on a slope. However, the bare areas look more bare today than I remember.


Adjacent area, 10 feet away from the above area. Only spot left with mycellium I could find:


Overhead of the above - spot with mycellium is right in the center. The brown area to the left-center is a dying/dead weed.


More overheads of areas with dead spots:


----------



## tgreen

1028mountain said:


> @tgreen it does look exactly like what happened with my first reno but this time not as bad. I read that "In general, azoxystrobin, pyraclostrobin, or fluoxastrobin applications will control gray leaf spot for 28 days. The other three fungicides will control the disease for 14 days" so could I use Disease-Ex to treat this? Its all I have on hand with azoxy in it. Reading online it says that Heritage is good against which contains the same amount of axozy as Disease-ex.


Yes, definitely try the disease X. Azoxystrobin is part of the strobilurin family that you cited and all are in the same same group (11, I think).

The downsides are 1) some gray leaf spot is known to be resistant to the strob's and 2) I personally did not have any luck with azoxystrobin after the disease was established. This is why I recommended the big gun(s) with a contact fungicide like chlorothalonil and systemic like t-methyl, both of which are known to be effective on GLS.

The reason it may be less of an issue for you this year is the existing tall fescue is mature and in its third year. Juvenile TF stands of 2 years or less are more susceptible to GLS according to the research.


----------



## jedross86

I just sprayed mefenexom in the areas I didnt treat Sunday. Should I water it in? Label says to but I'm not sure if its advisable to add water to the lawn when I have fungus present. I manually irrigate so I can leave the area I treated Sunday (pics above) be.

If the recommendations are to spray other MOAs I can do that tonight or tomorrow (rain coming tomorrow night).


----------



## g-man

@jedross86 you don't have fungus. That's a spiderweb. I don't even see a hint of PB.

You also have multiple different grasses in there.


----------



## jedross86

@g-man so any thoughts on what is killing my new grass? Grubs??


----------



## g-man

Maybe you had a fungus, maybe the tenacity affected some weeds, maybe a pest. It is just hard to tell from the images. That mycellium from today is a spiderweb. Try to take images from the same spot, with the same camera, with the same zoom of the same area every other day. You can delete them from your cell later, but it will help you identify if things are getting better, worst or staying the same.

You can also take a sample and send it to a Turf Pathology Lab for analysis. I think Rutger has one.


----------



## jedross86

Thanks for all the help and will do. Doing a soap test now around one of these spots to see if anything comes up.


----------



## Chuuurles

Hi, I have a PRG reno that got hammered by many intense storms.








Sprayed propi at 1oz /M about a week ago.


----------



## 1028mountain

@tgreen still not sure what caused this but some parts of my yard were completely unaffected. And it seems to have subsided but still have patchy areas where I have to reseed.

The front (Most sub and most water) seemed to have gotten hit the worst. I really wish I knew how to avoid this because this issue alone has caused me a ton of work. It's like a tale of two completely different yards.

Back corner which looks amazing:









Front corner where all the new grass has laid down and matted completely.


----------



## Kstawski

Grass got a little long due to all the rain and I after I mowed I noticed this developed in some areas. Not sure what it is, and since dormancy is right around the corner, do I treat it now?


----------



## uncken

Is this Gray Leaf Spot?


----------



## spaceman_spiff

It's been in the 50s for the past month or so with a bit of rain. The soil in one area of my lawn doesn't get a lot of sunlight and is consistently wet. While I was mowing today, I noticed what appears to be a fungus. It had a white ring around some browning grass:





No clue what this is, but I went ahead and threw a curative amount of DiseaseEx down since that's all I had. Just need to know if I need a different product to get rid of this.

e: Whoever moved this, thanks! Forgot about this thread...


----------



## spaceman_spiff

Got another to ID. I've got a good portion of my back yard turning yellow on the blades. I assume this is fungus if some sort?


----------



## g-man

It looks like rust. Grab a white paper towel and rub it. It should come up orange looking stuff.

Treat it and be careful with the mower since with can spread it.


----------



## spaceman_spiff

g-man said:


> It looks like rust. Grab a white paper towel and rub it. It should come up orange looking stuff.
> 
> Treat it and be careful with the mower since with can spread it.


Great, thanks! Just ordered some Propiconazole 14.3 to put into rotation with DiseaseEx.

And as for spreading, I've mowed a couple times in the past few weeks, so that kind of makes sense. Partially because my lawn hasn't gone completely dormant (warm northern CA weather), and also because I got lazy and mowing over my oak leaves to bag them was easier than raking them :lol:


----------



## g-man

Did you test with a white paper towel before ordering?


----------



## spaceman_spiff

g-man said:


> Did you test with a white paper towel before ordering?


Yup! It rubbed off orange, so you nailed it.

I also was going to get it anyway as a second MOA for preventative purposes since I already have DiseaseEx on hand.

Thanks!


----------



## spaceman_spiff

spaceman_spiff said:


> It's been in the 50s for the past month or so with a bit of rain. The soil in one area of my lawn doesn't get a lot of sunlight and is consistently wet. While I was mowing today, I noticed what appears to be a fungus. It had a white ring around some browning grass:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No clue what this is, but I went ahead and threw a curative amount of DiseaseEx down since that's all I had. Just need to know if I need a different product to get rid of this.
> 
> e: Whoever moved this, thanks! Forgot about this thread...


Dang, this keeps spreading in my one shady section by a fence. It sort of looks like Pythium blight, but it sounds like that only develops in hot/humid environments? Overnight air temps are in the 30s and daytime is hovering around 60-65' right now with soil temps at 45'.

It could also kind of resemble powdery mildew, but it also seems this one only grows in warm/hot environments?

I'm stumped, and it's slowly expanding.


----------



## g-man

That looks like PB.


----------



## T-McD

Looking for some help/direction on this.

I did a full reno last fall of 75% KBG / 25% PRG in our backyard. This winter season has been an unusually warm (at least early on) and wet. In early-to-mid December, I noticed some fungus pressure, most likely PB, due to the 45-50 degree temps. I did nothing to treat, as the colder winter weather was in the forecast. In mid-January, we got a decent amount of snow. Now the temps are starting to rise and the snow has partially melted, revealing further disease pressure.

This afternoon I noticed mycelium scattered throughout various spots in the grass. I still have snow cover on about 50% of the lawn.

Question 1) Any idea as to what this could be?

Question 2) Is there anything I can do to help the situation and fix this?


----------



## zeroibis

Full reno I did back in October I am seeing some disease pressure. I am not sure what it could be. Greencast pest outlook has been clear for my area so no easy answer there. 






















Any ideas?


----------



## LegionLawn

I found some spots that have some sort of powdery substance on them. I could use anyones advice. Here's the story:

1. Temps in my area (Nashville, TN) have been cooler getting into the 30s at night and high of 70s max during the day. It has been raining a decent amount to the point of pooling water in some low spots in the yard. No humidity really as of yet. So I wouldn't think fungus would be tearing it's ugly head yet.

2. I put down grubex before it rained last night (1.5" over about 24 hours)

3. I find the powdery substance ONLY on blades or spots where blades are very horizontal and high traffic areas in my yard.

4. It does appear to be the same color as the grubex (maybe it splashed up and coated some of the blades that were horizontal) BUT I am trigger happy with fungicide because I got hit hard last year in the summer and a lot of my grass died.

What do the pics look like to you?


----------



## newportknots

Hey Guys,

My lawn had fungus issues over the Winter that looked like snow mold.

My plan was to let the lawn grow the issues this Spring, but things have gotten a lot worse over the last week. It's been warmer and raining.

What do you think I'm dealing with? Any suggestions for next steps would be hugely appreciated.


----------



## g-man

It looks like pink snow mold.


----------



## newportknots

Thanks @g-man.


----------



## Agiuliano10

newportknots said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> My lawn had fungus issues over the Winter that looked like snow mold.
> 
> My plan was to let the lawn grow the issues this Spring, but things have gotten a lot worse over the last week. It's been warmer and raining.
> 
> What do you think I'm dealing with? Any suggestions for next steps would be hugely appreciated.


Following along. I have the same thing going on following a rain


----------



## Alowan

Recently lowered hoc and leveled. After this I noticed that a part of the lawn is growing slower and actually thinning out. It still looks decent but I Was wondering if it Was fungus.

Any ideas what it could be? Leaf spot?


----------



## mpm5054

Hi All -

I am located in SE Pa and sprayed 2 rounds of T zone on my lawn 15 days apart to try to rid some speedwell, clover and lesser celandine.

About 2 days after my T zone app I started noticing some minor discoloration in parts of my lawn. I believe it is centralized to the sections I sprayed but could be jumping to that conclusion. Any ideas for what I could be dealing with.

Have put about 1.2lb / 1k of N into the grass this year as well.


----------



## g-man

The most logical answer will start with herbicide damage.


----------



## mpm5054

g-man said:


> The most logical answer will start with herbicide damage.


Thanks @g-man . At least there aren't any more weeds! I will just let it heal over time and not immediately jump into putting down a fungicide.


----------



## Dude1988

So I have been searching around for a while now and can't figure out what this would be. Either a fungus or needing a chemical. I have tttf and kbg. In the spring I did a 19-0-5 then a month later I did a molasses spray and seems after that my lawn lost all dark green color and spots started turning yellow. From what I read it could have been wanting nitrogen/iron because of the molasses. So I sprayed a 12-0-0 iron and it did nothing at all. Stumped now. Is this a fungus?


----------



## world0022

Can anyone help Id? Prg, kbg, fine fescue blend. Water mornings only. Put down Bayer advanced a few days ago at almost curative rate.


----------



## Jeff_MI84

In the backyard I have what I suspect to be leaf spot/ melting out. It was a problem last year as well. It looks isolated and I can see some lighter color on the blades. I put Headway G granular down on Saturday the 21st at a rate of 4lb/ 1k (28 day rate).

Should I wait until day 28 to put down a liquid app, or around day 14? I called MSU extension and was told to do another app around two weeks, but could use another opinion if that isn't advisable.

On hand the two heavy butters I have are Propiconazole 14.3 and Heritage SC. Seeing as how Headway G has both in it, my only other options don't work for LS/MO. Which of the two is my best bet to keep it under control? Would I want to do .8oz/ 1k or .4oz?


----------



## mattb

Any thoughts on this?


----------



## g-man

Hmm, it looks like PB, but it is too early in the season for it.


----------



## greenthumb518

BUMP - This looks exactly like what I am seeing in my yard right now.



zeroibis said:


> Full reno I did back in October I am seeing some disease pressure. I am not sure what it could be. Greencast pest outlook has been clear for my area so no easy answer there.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any ideas?


----------



## kcabral81

Can someone confirm this is red thread. I put down disease x on my lawn a week ago no improvement. Thanks


----------



## MacLawn

My first year ever using fungicide 
Used Scotts DiseaseX but feel I applied it to late. I have never really had a fungus issue till this year. Seems to be the year of fungi in this area. The best lawn in the neighbor hood is struggling.
Noticed this for the first time this AM 
Not sure If I should try to treat it it not.

Its been a very strange year. Grass has never looked better or has it had so many problems all at once
From Fungus, to weed die off after application , annual grasses turning after seeding, water issues, draught issues , just waiting for the bugs to jump in!


----------



## g-man

Its called spiderweb nonfungusitis.


----------



## Justin9314

Hello everyone!

Is this fungus? There are like three or four spots that popped up overnight, about the size of a deck of cards. It's only in the landscaping (full sun).


----------



## g-man

Dog barf fungus


----------



## tgreen

Justin9314 said:


> Hello everyone!
> 
> Is this fungus? There are like three or four spots that popped up overnight, about the size of a deck of cards. It's only in the landscaping (full sun).


I believe that is a slime mold. Harmless and I'd probably leave it alone.

https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/fungus-lichen/what-is-slime-mold-slime.htm


----------



## huntme12

I thought this was dollar spot and has started to melt out. Was looking for another opinion. I am new to grasses and probably wanting to be tier 2 but more like tier 1 right now. This area is KBG with TF. Area is in sun 100% of the day. I was considering some propiconazole but not sure if too late to really so anything. I noticed I have a thick thatch in this area and plan to detach later this year. Is some other form like diseaseX going to help slow it for now until later this fall? I have had this issue two years in a row now and have tried adjusting my irrigation to twice a week to get about 3/4 inch each time. I have tried reading up and really can't see what I've done wrong here.


----------



## g-man

It looks like lack of water. Do an irrigation audit of that spot.


----------



## spaceman_spiff

Shout out to @g-man for some funny replies on this page.


----------



## g-man

spaceman_spiff said:


> Shout out to @g-man for some funny replies on this page.


Dog barf fungus is a real thing. Google it.


----------



## huntme12

g-man said:


> It looks like lack of water. Do an irrigation audit of that spot.


I will do this. Thanks for help.


----------



## The Lawnfather




----------



## KoopHawk

g-man said:


> spaceman_spiff said:
> 
> 
> 
> Shout out to @g-man for some funny replies on this page.
> 
> 
> 
> Dog barf fungus is a real thing. Google it.
Click to expand...

I'll be damned...


----------



## katabolik

Hi all,

New to the forum and to lawn care in general.

I have a new build house and recently got the front and back yards sodded with KBG. I'm at the 7 week mark currently and it seems that everything has rooted well. A week ago I noticed some yellowing which has gotten progressively worse over the last few days. There are patches of grass that have turned completely straw colored and look dried out. This coincided with a recent heat wave and I thought this was due to my sod drying out, but the rest of my lawn looks ok, so now I'm thinking it is fungus. It looks like leaf blight based on my be reading but hoping someone else can chime in. I'm in Toronto and don't have ready access to fungicides, so also hoping to see what you guys might recommend. Thanks!


----------



## g-man

It looks like lack of water. Check for rocks to see if there is anything below the soil.


----------



## downriverlawn

Fungus or heat stress? Might need better pictures later. It pulls up easily and only in small patches


----------



## spaceman_spiff

g-man said:


> spaceman_spiff said:
> 
> 
> 
> Shout out to @g-man for some funny replies on this page.
> 
> 
> 
> Dog barf fungus is a real thing. Google it.
Click to expand...

My kids already tried that one on me, right after ligma. Nice try buddy.


----------



## g-man

spaceman_spiff said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> spaceman_spiff said:
> 
> 
> 
> Shout out to @g-man for some funny replies on this page.
> 
> 
> 
> Dog barf fungus is a real thing. Google it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My kids already tried that one on me, right after ligma. Nice try buddy.
Click to expand...

https://mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/field-guide/dog-vomit-slime-mold-scrambled-egg-slime-mold


----------



## SNOWBOB11

spaceman_spiff said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> spaceman_spiff said:
> 
> 
> 
> Shout out to @g-man for some funny replies on this page.
> 
> 
> 
> Dog barf fungus is a real thing. Google it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> My kids already tried that one on me, right after ligma. Nice try buddy.
Click to expand...

Yeah it's real. Usually have a few people that have it in there landscape each year ask on the forum what it is.


----------



## spaceman_spiff

g-man said:


> spaceman_spiff said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> g-man said:
> 
> 
> 
> Dog barf fungus is a real thing. Google it.
> 
> 
> 
> My kids already tried that one on me, right after ligma. Nice try buddy.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> https://mdc.mo.gov/discover-nature/field-guide/dog-vomit-slime-mold-scrambled-egg-slime-mold
Click to expand...

I love that it tells me in yellow that it's not edible :lol:


----------



## dawk

https://imgur.com/a/NMdqPtB


----------



## Agiuliano10

Not sure if this is fungus or heat stress. Summer is just starting but I also haven't been running my irrigation. I had a bad case of red thread/pink patch so treated for that a month ago and did a second treatment with a different MOA earlier this week.


----------



## floppygrass

The high up picture is always good so we can see the distribution, but you need something up close so that people can tell what's going on. That just looks like dormant grass from not watering. My lawn has lots of brown, too, from not watering.


----------



## g-man

It looks like dollar spot pattern.


----------



## Glen_Cove_5511

Fungus pressure has been ramped up with late afternoon/evening rain and high temps the last two weeks. Since April I've been putting down Propi and Azoxy. My last app was two weeks ago, Azoxy only due to temps over 85°. I'm noticing a fungus that has quickly come on and I'd appreciate some help identifying it and recommendations for what curative action to take. Much appreciated!


----------



## Glen_Cove_5511

Glen_Cove_5511 said:


> Fungus pressure has been ramped up with late afternoon/evening rain and high temps the last two weeks. Since April I've been putting down Propi and Azoxy. My last app was two weeks ago, Azoxy only due to temps over 85°. I'm noticing a fungus that has quickly come on and I'd appreciate some help identifying it and recommendations for what curative action to take. Much appreciated!


I'm thinking this may be Brown Patch. Can I tank mix curative rates of Azoxy AND Propi and make the application this evening after temps go below 85°? I also have Clearys (liquid) and Eagle (granular) on hand. Thanks again!


----------



## Magnolia

Can anyone ID this? Reseeded this section with a cool season mix last fall. Assume it's gray leaf spot and if so, could someone suggest a fungicide? I've done a bit of research online but a lot of the fungicides listed on various websites are sold at such large volumes that it seems silly to buy for my ~2k sq ft backyard.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## tgreen

Magnolia said:


> Assume it's gray leaf spot and if so, could someone suggest a fungicide?


Gray leaf spot can wipe out an entire stand of juvenile tall fescue. It happened to me. That does not look like gray leaf spot. It looks like a drought issue. The blades you show look like dollar spot and/ or brown patch although in this case it looks incidental to the main issue.


----------



## tgreen

Either way, I'd leave it and overseed in about 45 days or you could run azoxystrobin and propiconazole and it wouldn't hurt anything but your wallet. I'd do the former at this point of the year.


----------



## Magnolia

tgreen said:


> Either way, I'd leave it and overseed in about 45 days or you could run azoxystrobin and propiconazole and it wouldn't hurt anything but your wallet. I'd do the former at this point of the year.


Great, thanks for the help


----------



## Lungal09

I've noticed some areas with white blemishes on the grass blades. Is this a fungus or just too much moisture? It's popping up in the more shaded areas 
What should I do?


----------



## Jeff_MI84

It kind of looks like powdery mildew in the second picture. Does it rub off the grass?


----------



## Lungal09

I just tried and yes with a bit of work it does rub off. Is that something I can leave then and not worry about?


----------



## Jeff_MI84

Here is a link from Rutgers. You can try Propiconazole, Azoxystrobin or Myclobutanil to treat it. It's not really as serious as other funguses, more unsightly. It's prone to appear in shady areas with less airflow.

http://www2.ca.uky.edu/agcomm/pubs/PPA/PPA1/PPA1.pdf

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=4042


----------



## Lungal09

Thanks!


----------



## MacLawn

This popped up recently. At first I thought the kids spilt juice and was mold? Seems to be growing on the blades and killing them? 
What is it?
Treat it? 
Remove it ?


----------



## tgreen

MacLawn said:


> This popped up recently. At first I thought the kids spilt juice and was mold? Seems to be growing on the blades and killing them?
> What is it?
> Treat it?
> Remove it ?


That's active disease. The white stuff is called mycelium. Guessing brown patch on the tall fescue. Other diseases produce mycelium too, like dollar spot. Have you done any fungicides?

Try to minimize leaf wetness as much as you can.


----------



## g-man

It is a fungus, but i can't id from the images. It looks like dollar spot, but I'm not sure.


----------



## SNOWBOB11

Your grass is also too tall. It needs to be mowed. Having it that tall is not doing any favours for fungus.


----------



## MacLawn

SNOWBOB11 said:


> Your grass is also too tall. It needs to be mowed. Having it that tall is not doing any favours for fungus.


I have not been able mow because of the down pores. Along with the morning due staying wet almost all day. Mower blade height is 3.5"


----------



## MacLawn

tgreen said:


> MacLawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> This popped up recently. At first I thought the kids spilt juice and was mold? Seems to be growing on the blades and killing them?
> What is it?
> Treat it?
> Remove it ?
> 
> 
> 
> That's active disease. The white stuff is called mycelium. Guessing brown patch on the tall fescue. Other diseases produce mycelium too, like dollar spot. Have you done any fungicides?
> 
> Try to minimize leaf wetness as much as you can.
Click to expand...

 Should I apply fungicide before mowing ? 
Should mow and bag it then treat it.


----------



## tgreen

MacLawn said:


> Should I apply fungicide before mowing ?


I assume you're going to do a granular like Scott's Diseasex? If so, it probably doesn't matter and I'd try to get the fungicide out asap. If you have a choice, I'd probably mow it first just so you don't pick up any granules with the mower but either way you should be fine.



MacLawn said:


> Should mow and bag it then treat it.


I'd bag it if you can and not too much hassle.


----------



## MacLawn

tgreen said:


> MacLawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Should I apply fungicide before mowing ?
> 
> 
> 
> I assume you're going to do a granular like Scott's Diseasex? If so, it probably doesn't matter and I'd try to get the fungicide out asap. If you have a choice, I'd probably mow it first just so you don't pick up any granules with the mower but either way you should be fine.
> 
> 
> 
> MacLawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Should mow and bag it then treat it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'd bag it if you can and not too much hassle.
Click to expand...

I have Eagle 20ew liquid on hand
I did apply Scotts 4-6 weeks ago and all seemed "ok" until I spotted this
I mowed the worse area bagged it and tossed it in the trash.
I applied 1.5 oz of eagle 1 gallon watee / 1000 sqft. - measured off 
It took 3 passes with the small pump sprayer to dispense 1 g - need to up grade to powered sprayer.
Of course another rain storm came through about 15 min after 
application

This is what I have been fighting trying to mow. The past 6 days


----------



## tgreen

The residual on the diseaseX is 28 days max. If that is brown patch (I think it is), then Eagle/ myclobutanil doesn't work. I know it's labeled for it but it's not effective (see link below). Generally, rain diminishes the effectiveness of contact fungicides and eagle is a systemic.

https://www.plantpath.k-state.edu/extension/documents/turf/Brown%20patch%20%20homeowners%202016.pdf


----------



## MacLawn

tgreen said:


> The residual on the diseaseX is 28 days max. If that is brown patch (I think it is), then Eagle/ myclobutanil doesn't work. I know it's labeled for it but it's not effective (see link below). Generally, rain diminishes the effectiveness of contact fungicides and eagle is a systemic.
> 
> https://www.plantpath.k-state.edu/extension/documents/turf/Brown%20patch%20%20homeowners%202016.pdf


 Wonderful: thanks for the link.
I have been finding more "studies" to read and its been helpful.
Well I will apply what I have 
Do you have a product recommendation?


----------



## 440mag

tgreen said:


> The residual on the diseaseX is 28 days max. If that is brown patch (I think it is), then Eagle/ myclobutanil doesn't work. I know it's labeled for it but it's not effective (see link below). Generally, rain diminishes the effectiveness of contact fungicides and eagle is a systemic.
> 
> https://www.plantpath.k-state.edu/extension/documents/turf/Brown%20patch%20%20homeowners%202016.pdf


Haha, okay, ^this^ post brought to my conscious mind a new hobby of mine is "gold-seeking" here on TLF - for links, just like ^that^ one! :thumbup:


----------



## Jeff_MI84

I'm curious if I am dealing with more than dollar spot and probably melting out? Headway G went down last Sunday. It didn't look as bad when I mowed on Tuesday.


----------



## psider25

OK... went on vacation and came home to this. There were a couple similar spots before vacation I thought were no big deal, but I guess was wrong. I peeled up the sod under one spot to look for grubs but didn't see any. I don't see diseased blades of grass really just dead grass.


----------



## Lawn Noob

Any lesions on the blades surrounding the patches?


----------



## Lawn Noob

Lots of red thread this year.


----------



## Jeff_MI84

It popped up the other day, after a weekend of constant wet weather. I know I'm dealing with Dollar Spot, but think this is Brown Patch as well. From the looks of it, would anyone agree that I'll have to overseed? My guess is yes.


----------



## ENVY23

Any ideas? Necrotic Ring spot? This is KBG and this area hasn't received fungicide since June 5th as this is a "low input" area and I've been experimenting to see what happens with less overall input. It's been super rainy/wet for the last 2 weeks. Thanks!


----------



## psider25

Lawn Noob said:


> Any lesions on the blades surrounding the patches?


I don't really see any....


----------



## Lawn Noob

Do you have a large dog?


----------



## g-man

ENVY23 said:


> Any ideas? Necrotic Ring spot? This is KBG and this area hasn't received fungicide since June 5th as this is a "low input" area and I've been experimenting to see what happens with less overall input. It's been super rainy/wet for the last 2 weeks. Thanks!


That looks too perfect of a circle. Kids toy or garbage can lid left in the sun?


----------



## ENVY23

g-man said:


> That looks too perfect of a circle. Kids toy or garbage can lid left in the sun?


I thought the same about it being a perfect circle. Nothing has been left there and there's probably 3 of these in the area, all varying in size. The others are a little less perfect, but still very circular.


----------



## psider25

Nope


----------



## psider25

psider25 said:


> OK... went on vacation and came home to this. There were a couple similar spots before vacation I thought were no big deal, but I guess was wrong. I peeled up the sod under one spot to look for grubs but didn't see any. I don't see diseased blades of grass really just dead grass.


No speculators? Any experimentation ideas? Thinking of just getting some Bayer propi and putting it down but forecast starting in next couple days goes up to 90s


----------



## g-man

Dew points are going to be above 70F for the Indy area. I assuming it will be similar for other areas.

The dew temps along with the summer stress from heat/drought will yield prime conditions for fungus. The classic one would be PB along with BP. PB is tricky since it is expensive to treat and you have to treat it immediately (have the fungicides in the shed). Scott diseaseX (azoxy) is not that great on it. Sometimes the cheapest option is to seed the area.


----------



## Kstawski

Hey all, new to IDing fungus and fungicides - need help with this one. KBG lawn.


----------



## 2L8

Yesterday, the first time discovered in the lawn:

Still relatively inconspicuous, and because it's only 2.5 m next to a dry patch, I initially thought it was one of those, too.

But closer examination clearly showed a fungal disease:

It seems to me that several fungi are present at once. The overall picture and mycelium looks to me like pythium blight, but you can also see yellow pustules that look like rust. Probably rust on KBG and something else on TTTF.

In addition, white pustules can be seen on some spots:


----------



## g-man

Yes on the rust. The other could be a very small dollar spot. It does not look like PB to me.


----------



## 440mag

Would like to "set an alarm" to repopulate this article next Spring!

(As I am sure I'll forget! )

*My Grass Is Sick! Now What?*

https://turfpathology.ces.ncsu.edu/2022/05/my-grass-is-sick-now-what/


----------



## 2L8

g-man said:


> Yes on the rust. The other could be a very small dollar spot. It does not look like PB to me.


Thank you. I hope it`s only dollar spot, because I do not have access to well effective agents against PB. Spayed azoxy yesterday.


----------



## Roketta

Help please, this is been going on for a month now, it started as 2 spots now it is pretty much everywhere, i got some fungucid from local shop, no specific name on it but it seems it didnt work, i sprayed it like a week ago and i cant see healthy part of grass growing under. Can you help me recognise what the problem is. It is KBG lawn.


----------



## Airbender

Would anyone know what kind of fungus this might be?

Reverse Images became up with smut stripe or slime mold, Smut stripe seems to be a winter fungus. 
This was about a month back in Northern VA.

It has a stripe-shape for sure.





Close Ups are below :


----------



## Roketta

Roketta said:


> Help please, this is been going on for a month now, it started as 2 spots now it is pretty much everywhere, i got some fungucid from local shop, no specific name on it but it seems it didnt work, i sprayed it like a week ago and i cant see healthy part of grass growing under. Can you help me recognise what the problem is. It is KBG lawn.


Help guys, its getting worse each day, im afraid to even cut it anymore.


----------



## 2L8

This looks like rust, but I only know it with smooth pustules on the leaves. With you, the pustules are more wadded like powdery mildew. Maybe it's a different form of rust and the spore beds are open. With rust, wiping a cloth (toilet paper, or similar) over the grasses will stain them.

However, rust should be easily controlled by fungicides with azoxystrobin or conazoles (difeno-, propi-, tebu-).


----------



## g-man

@Airbender it looks like smile.


----------



## Lawn Noob

Airbender said:


> Would anyone know what kind of fungus this might be?
> 
> Reverse Images became up with smut stripe or slime mold, Smut stripe seems to be a winter fungus.
> This was about a month back in Northern VA.
> 
> It has a stripe-shape for sure.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close Ups are below :


Looks vaguely like powdery mildew but with a heavier texture. I'd be mixing and applying propiconazole and Azoxystrobin tank mixed.


----------



## Kstawski

Kstawski said:


> Hey all, new to IDing fungus and fungicides - need help with this one. KBG lawn.


Just a bump - is this leaf spot?


----------



## g-man

I dont think so. It looks like a dull mower blade or too low rpm.


----------



## e_dawg

Is this anthracnose? CRF / PRG / KBG lawn, although I wonder if these lighter green leaves are bentgrass?

Leaf blades are mostly green, while the crowns are brown. You can also see a bit of slime on the bottom.

The main reason I suspect anthracnose is that the leaf blades seems fine but the crowns are infected / brown, but besides that, I have no idea.


----------



## Kstawski

Trying to help my neighbor, not exactly sure what's going on but I think it's a fungus


----------



## GCGreen

I had this pop up in my front reno over the past few days. Anyone know what this is?

Recent fungicide apps were azoxy on 8/29 (curative - had some PB) and on 9/9 (preventative). I just sprayed Propi this morning.

Watering is under control but it is in an area that stays shady until about 10-11am.


----------



## GCGreen

Did some research and appears it may be yellow patch. Conditions are ripe for it. Hopefully the azoxy and Propi apps with take care of it. The guide also said fertilizer may make it worse. That's touch because it's a reno and needs a lot of fert. You agree this is yellow patch?


----------



## PFTanx

What do you think and how do I kill it? Small section that has been damp for a while due to low sun and very damp evenings.


----------



## PFTanx

I say dollar spot


----------



## jp1206

Is this more than rust?


----------



## Rkolarich15

Since I have been keeping the soil moist for the grass seed I have noticed the top of the soil is turning a darkish green in some places. Im guessing it is algae? It's just a thin layer and it's not everywhere, just scattered in small splotches. Can this become a problem for my newly seeded lawn? Is there anything I can do to get rid of it? Or Am I worrying about nothing. Here is a picture.


----------



## GCGreen

GCGreen said:


> I had this pop up in my front reno over the past few days. Anyone know what this is?
> 
> Recent fungicide apps were azoxy on 8/29 (curative - had some PB) and on 9/9 (preventative). I just sprayed Propi this morning.
> 
> Watering is under control but it is in an area that stays shady until about 10-11am.


Bumping this for a response. Love the consolidated fungus thread but it doesn't get near the attention that individual threads get. Any help?


----------



## g-man

GCgreen, is hard to see a fungus in your pictures. But it is clear that you do need to mow.


----------



## g-man

@Rkolarich15 that normal to show up in a Reno. The bare soil stays moist and the algae can grow. It also grows in putting greens. There is nothing you need to do since it won't affect your seeds.


----------



## g-man

@jp1206 you have rust. You can confirm using a white paper towel in those blades. It will look orange/rust color. You have to treat and clean your mower between affected and clean areas to avoid it spreading.


----------



## g-man

@PFTanx it looks like brown patch.


----------



## GCGreen

g-man said:


> GCgreen, is hard to see a fungus in your pictures. But it is clear that you do need to mow.


@g-man

Are these pictures any better? I'm having a hard time figuring out what this is.


----------



## PFTanx

g-man said:


> @PFTanx it looks like brown patch.


Thanks as always, @g-man ! I had a hose end sprayer bottle of bonide copper fugicide that claims to address brown spot. We'll see how that goes!


----------



## g-man

@GCGreen that has the look of PB, but it is impossible to tell from these images. It looks too wet and long.


----------



## GCGreen

g-man said:


> @GCGreen that has the look of PB, but it is impossible to tell from these images. It looks too wet and long.


@g-man

I had issues with PB a few weeks ago in other areas that I hit with mefenoxam and it seemed to stop it in its tracks. I knew it was PB from the cotton like substance on the grass. These areas have not shown any of the cotton like look. Just turning yellowish and withered.

Any recommendations for treatment?


----------



## g-man

Blanket treatment against PB. Mow and reduce the watering.


----------



## GCGreen

g-man said:


> Blanket treatment against PB. Mow and reduce the watering.


@g-man

I put down a preventative app of azoxy 10 days ago (second app of azoxy) and sprayed Propi 2 days ago. Should I go with mefenoxam or put down a curative of azoxy or Propi?


----------



## g-man

If you have mefenoxam, then that's is best for PB. But mow first.


----------



## GCGreen

g-man said:


> If you have mefenoxam, then that's is best for PB. But mow first.


Thanks @g-man

Looks like it is spreading pretty quickly. I'm going to let the grass dry a bit from the morning dew, give it a cut, and the spray the mefenoxam. Crossing my fingers that it will take care of the issue. I'm afraid this could get out of hand quick.

I woke up this morning and saw a lot of "yellowing" in the grass.


----------



## Don_Julio

Will propi work on this? Its a 3 week old grass that was bare dirt. I have Azoxy and Clearys too but I don't know if it's safe for baby grass.


----------



## Rkolarich15

I seeded the 8th and I noticed this Cotton like substance on my new grass this morning. It is in 1 small area about the size of a baseball. From what I've looked up I suppose it is pythium blight? Is there anything I can do? Or am I okay to just let it ride? The fungicides I've looked up are quite expensive but I will go that route if I have to save my grass.


----------



## Don_Julio

could this be Pythium blight? If anybody can help so that I can maybe order the proper fungicide. It takes a few days to get delivered so really concerned right now.


----------



## g-man

It does look like PB. Cut back on watering. Avoid it being too moist overnight.


----------



## Rkolarich15

g-man said:


> It does look like PB. Cut back on watering. Avoid it being too moist overnight.


Thank you sir. So just cut back on the watering and don't worry about a fungicide for now?


----------



## Old Hickory

Mefenoxam is what you need for PB.


----------



## g-man

The PB fungicides are expensive. Seed is cheaper. Weather is turning better (not as hot/humid overnight), so it should reduce the risk. Ultimately it is all on how much $$ vs risk profile you have.


----------



## Don_Julio

Old Hickory said:


> Mefenoxam is what you need for PB.


Yeah, I just ordered some THANKS. Will this be safe to use on young 3-week-old grass? Should I mix it with Propi just in case it is not Pythium?


----------



## Don_Julio

g-man said:


> The PB fungicides are expensive. Seed is cheaper. Weather is turning better (not as hot/humid overnight), so it should reduce the risk. Ultimately it is all on how much $$ vs risk profile you have.


Yes very expensive. I decided to order some Mefenoxam just to have it on hand. I have been reading some horror stories about Pythium.

I also decide to turn off my irrigation this morning. I will back off the watering. Temps really is not hot so I hope it is not anything serious maybe just mycelium.

Will mixing Propi and mefenoxam on 3-week-old grass safe??


----------



## jackallis

let me guess, PB- :x 
i can't seem to kept fungus off. it's on a slope and i dont water pass 3pm.

https://i.imgur.com/Inubo40.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/yeOnrop.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4VlmPKE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/A2KITCF.jpg


----------



## GCGreen

Following up my earlier posts with an update and a few questions. Below are a few pictures of what I'm dealing with.

This area of the yard does tend to stay damp for a while as the sun does not hit it until mid morning. So I can definitely see PB being an issue. Last week, I added more seed to the center portion of the yard as it was pretty thin and was four weeks into the reno. So, I had two sprinklers set up to be hitting this area of the yard a few times throughout the day for a few minutes. There is definitely a bit of overspray into other areas, so I will probably have to transition to hand watering this area

This morning, I waited for the grass to dry, cut it at 2", and then sprayed mefenoxam 1oz/k. I let it dry out while I fixed a hose and then came back a little later and gave it a good watering into the soil as per the directions. I did not cut the center portion of the yard where I recently put seed down as it has not germinated yet. Hoping for germination within the next day or two.

- How long should it take for me to see the results of the mefenoxam? If it looks as though the mefenoxam does not work, what would you suggest as the next fungicide app? I already have two apps of azoxy and just sprayed Propi last week.

- The yard is due for another spoon feeding of N, but my understanding is that you should not push N if PB is an issue in your yard. Being that this is a reno and looks to be in need of some N, what do you recommend?

- I sent in a soil sample last week and should be getting the results late this week or possibly early next week. Hopefully there will be some insight into what is going on in the soil that may be contributing to any issues.


----------



## GCGreen

I post above was way too long so I'll post my questions here.

- How long should it take for me to see the results of the mefenoxam? I sprayed late morning yesterday and the lawn does not look any worse today. I might say it looked a bit better. I already have two apps of azoxy and sprayed Propi last week. So, if it looks like the mefenoxam is not working I may hit it with T-methyl. Will keep an ion temperatures as they are looking to drop this week.

- The yard is due for another spoon feeding of N, but my understanding is that you should not push N if PB is an issue in your yard. Being that this is a reno and looks to be in need of some N, what do you recommend?

@g-man ?


----------



## jackallis

not to give you sass bruh, but you gotta google things. Hm, may be attitude is coming from me because i 'm pissed off about fungus on my reno as well. dont mind me.

ok. Mefen should work within days but that depends still on weather, humidity and water on your lawn. give it another shot around day 14. if it is PB, Mefen is strong YES, Azoxy is weak YES.

If you look at the pic that i posted above, i still have them but it has not spread much as weather is changing. SO, you might be ok.

i say wait another two weeks and apply N.



GCGreen said:


> I post above was way too long so I'll post my questions here.
> 
> - How long should it take for me to see the results of the mefenoxam? I sprayed late morning yesterday and the lawn does not look any worse today. I might say it looked a bit better. I already have two apps of azoxy and sprayed Propi last week. So, if it looks like the mefenoxam is not working I may hit it with T-methyl. Will keep an ion temperatures as they are looking to drop this week.
> 
> - The yard is due for another spoon feeding of N, but my understanding is that you should not push N if PB is an issue in your yard. Being that this is a reno and looks to be in need of some N, what do you recommend?
> 
> @g-man ?


----------



## g-man

Fungicide should stop the progress of the issue, but it is not going to make the dead leaf turn back to healthy green. Is the grass growing? then you can hold off on nitrogen, otherwise do some nitrogen.

The main thing with that fungus (PB) is wet leaves and higher temps. You cant control the temps or rain, but you can control your irrigation or mowing shorter so it can dry up faster.

The rest is just patience.


----------



## GCGreen

g-man said:


> Fungicide should stop the progress of the issue, but it is not going to make the dead leaf turn back to healthy green. Is the grass growing? then you can hold off on nitrogen, otherwise do some nitrogen.
> 
> The main thing with that fungus (PB) is wet leaves and higher temps. You cant control the temps or rain, but you can control your irrigation or mowing shorter so it can dry up faster.
> 
> The rest is just patience.


There is very little grass that looks dead. Just a bunch of yellowish grass that looks sick. Maybe this grass is dying and will not come back or the unhealthy part will get cut off as the grass grows and comes back healthy?

I have cut back on watering and I'm only hand watering the this areas where more seed was added a week ago. This and the lower temps that are coming should help a lot.

The grass growth has definitely slowed down so I will probably drop some N in the next few days.


----------



## Jeffc31783

Hi Folks,

Help appreciated here!

I'm a week into my renovation (Richmond, VA) and i have a area that appears to be fungus. I think I overwatered it last week and have turned off water to that area.

Any thoughts on how I can fix and save this area?

Also, any fungicide recommendations?

Thanks in advance for your help!


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## ajahrendt07

What fungus is this? Located in the Dakota’s, mostly KBG. I water twice a week in the AM, deep waters each time. I have been battling fungus in my backyard all season. Early in the year I believe I had melting out as I had blades with purple legions. Now I have this. I have rotated propiconazole and Scott’s disease ex to battle the fungus most of the summer. It has cooled down here greatly and I have begun my nitrogen blitz a week ago, applying ammonium sulfate 21-0-0 each week. On a normal year, my backyard would be lush green right now and crazy growth. While it is still growing, it’s slow for a normal nitrogen blitz and has a yellow tint to most of it due to whatever fungus has crept up again. I sprayed curative rate of propiconazole about a month ago to an area of the backyard that had a similar yellow tint as my whole backyard now. Apparently it didn’t solve the issue. Thinking about dethatching ext week and dumping another curative rate of disease ex…any guesses?


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## g-man

ajahrendt07 said:


> What fungus is this? Located in the Dakota’s, mostly KBG. I water twice a week in the AM, deep waters each time. I have been battling fungus in my backyard all season. Early in the year I believe I had melting out as I had blades with purple legions. Now I have this. I have rotated propiconazole and Scott’s disease ex to battle the fungus most of the summer. It has cooled down here greatly and I have begun my nitrogen blitz a week ago, applying ammonium sulfate 21-0-0 each week. On a normal year, my backyard would be lush green right now and crazy growth. While it is still growing, it’s slow for a normal nitrogen blitz and has a yellow tint to most of it due to whatever fungus has crept up again. I sprayed curative rate of propiconazole about a month ago to an area of the backyard that had a similar yellow tint as my whole backyard now. Apparently it didn’t solve the issue. Thinking about dethatching ext week and dumping another curative rate of disease ex…any guesses?
> 
> View attachment 379
> 
> View attachment 378


It has a GLS look to it. The fungicides you are using are not great around it, if it is GLS.


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## ajahrendt07

g-man said:


> It has a GLS look to it. The fungicides you are using are not great around it, if it is GLS.


 What would you put down?


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## g-man

Check the fungicide guide and while doing some reading, also check the cool season guide.


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## Jeff_MI84

After fertilizing the reno, I came across a few blades that look like this. Shorter grass so it was earlier to spot. I’m really at a loss as I don’t see lesions. I applied Headway G my last two fungicide apps (as recently as September 13 at 3.5lb rate). Already planned on switching it up to either a FRAC 1 or 7 as per my rotation.

Yellowing/ browning from what I understand could also be fertilizer burn but it’s isolated blades.


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## jackallis




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## SNOWBOB11

Looks like leaf spot from those photos.


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## The Lawnfather

Found some, what i believe to be red thread, in my lawn yesterday. Should I put down some disease x, feed w fert to push it out, or just let it go for the winter


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## Tronk92

Seems to be more prominent in thinner areas.






























@g-man


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## Tronk92

Tronk92 said:


> Seems to be more prominent in thinner areas.
> View attachment 2877
> View attachment 2878
> View attachment 2879
> View attachment 2880
> 
> 
> @g-man


After investigating. Pretty it's leaf spot. Question is. How much concern should I have been that it's close to winter????


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