# My DIY irrigation plan



## CenlaLowell

Hello all,

I've been thinking about this for a few years so now Im ready to get to the planning stages. Over the winter I will read the website @Ware linked and also do the diy plan with rainbird and maybe Orbit. The first area I have in mine is this one. 




Area is 100 x 100 and I will have a one inch water meter installed from the city for the supply. That's the first thing I have to do in order to get gpm and psi for my system.

I will update this as I can wish me luck.


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## TSGarp007

I assumed you had a system... how have you been keeping it watered this whole time?


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## CenlaLowell

TSGarp007 said:


> I assumed you had a system... how have you been keeping it watered this whole time?


Nope, water hose and sprinkles all above ground


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## TSGarp007

CenlaLowell said:


> TSGarp007 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I assumed you had a system... how have you been keeping it watered this whole time?
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, water hose and sprinkles all above ground
Click to expand...

Wow... No way I could keep up with that, very impressive.

I will say try to use a vibratory plow for any single line runs. I really wish I had done that instead of trenching everything.


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## CenlaLowell

TSGarp007 said:


> CenlaLowell said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TSGarp007 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I assumed you had a system... how have you been keeping it watered this whole time?
> 
> 
> 
> Nope, water hose and sprinkles all above ground
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Wow... No way I could keep up with that, very impressive.
> 
> I will say try to use a vibratory plow for any single line runs. I really wish I had done that instead of trenching everything.
Click to expand...

Thanks, this yard is getting away from me I got heat stress plus GLS going on looking pretty bad right now.

I've seen that machine on YouTube. I'm running PVC I don't think it can laid that down. I'm thinking you have to use that poly pipe with that machine.


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## mwemaxxowner

You can pull PVC pipe into straight runs with a vibratory ow also. It just has to be glued together first.

You can also pull them in with a subsoiler on a 3 point hitch if you happen to have a tractor.


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## CenlaLowell

mwemaxxowner said:


> You can pull PVC pipe into straight runs with a vibratory ow also. It just has to be glued together first.
> 
> You can also pull them in with a subsoiler on a 3 point hitch if you happen to have a tractor.


I don't have a tractor and homedepot doesn't rental that machine. They only have the trencher which I know is much more work. I definitely will have questions along the way so I'm glad people are chiming in.

Thanks


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## TSGarp007

I finished my project in January. Grass is still filling in in some spots, though overall it's getting pretty close. I over-seeded with annual ryegrass when I finished to fill the gap until the SA started spreading again.


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## CenlaLowell

TSGarp007 said:


> I finished my project in January. Grass is still filling in in some spots, though overall it's getting pretty close. I over-seeded with annual ryegrass when I finished to fill the gap until the SA started spreading again.


That's cool I will take a look at your plan. I'm going to try to get the city to install the meter and I'll do the valves this year fingers crossed.


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## CenlaLowell

Discuss with the city and it's 575$ for a 1 inch water meter installed. So that the first thing to do. Afterwards I'll install a ball valve, pvb, and two valves boxes with four valves in each. If I can accomplish this before Christmas I will be THRILLED

Overview

1 inch water meter
1 inch pvc pipe
What nozzles should I run???
100DVF valves 8
Pvb
Ball valve

What else am I missing?


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## CenlaLowell

This ain't looking to good fellas

I'm using my water supply for this test. My house supply is a 3/4 water meter. I got the gallons per minute and it's LOW. I check it a few times and I'm coming up with 49 seconds to fill five gallons and that leaves me with six gpm. I know the irrigation water meter is going to be one inch but I don't know how much difference that will make. Here my setup for this test.

Update, I'm reading old posts with people saying that the spigot is really not the best place to get gpm and it will be much more when you tie into the mainline????? Until I get my new water meter there's no way for me to check it this way. 


Next test is the psi. I brought some pvc and other items to rig this up. What I got was 70 psi.



Any help is appreciated
Paging @TSGarp007 @g-man


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## TSGarp007

Yep, I'd hold off on the psi/gpm test for now. But for now I would do a drawing of your property and start doing some sprinkler placement. Assume you'll get at least 40 psi for sprinkler radius coverage. Try to get head to head coverage. Don't try and spray through your multiple trees. You can divide the sprinklers up into zones, and figure out your pipe layout once you know your gpm.


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## g-man

The 1in meter, Pex?


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## CenlaLowell

TSGarp007 said:


> Yep, I'd hold off on the psi/gpm test for now. But for now I would do a drawing of your property and start doing some sprinkler placement. Assume you'll get at least 40 psi for sprinkler radius coverage. Try to get head to head coverage. Don't try and spray through your multiple trees. You can divide the sprinklers up into zones, and figure out your pipe layout once you know your gpm.


The reason I was doing it was to use rainbird design plan, but here's the lot I'm running it on.




The one with the red arrow is the area. Lot 24

I own lot 22, 23, and 24


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## CenlaLowell

g-man said:


> The 1in meter, Pex?


1 inch water meter, I'll be using pvc


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## g-man

Per irrigation tutorials, you can safely use 18gpm. Is the incoming pipe to the meter also 1in?

I would advice to keep the zones at no more than 15gpm. This allows you some room to flush a toilet.

https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/gpm-psi-municipal-water-source/


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## CenlaLowell

g-man said:


> Per irrigation tutorials, you can safely use 18gpm. Is the incoming pipe to the meter also 1in?
> 
> I would advice to keep the zones at no more than 15gpm. This allows you some room to flush a toilet.
> 
> https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/gpm-psi-municipal-water-source/


Everything is one inch,

I'm not using the same water meter my home is on. 15 gpm per zone? If so, this is definitely doable. I've been reading a lot of irrigation tutorial and it's definitely overwhelming. I'll get it though

This is where you are getting your gpm, correct?


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## g-man

Yes, that table. Since it is dedicated, then forget about the toilet, 18gpm per zone.


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## TSGarp007

I was going to mention that part of the tutorial but didn't want it to be my fault if it ends up being less. Even if 18 is available I'd still design to less so that you would have the ability to add a sprinkler later on, or have the flexibility to upgrade nozzles if required.


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## CenlaLowell

TSGarp007 said:


> I was going to mention that part of the tutorial but didn't want it to be my fault if it ends up being less. Even if 18 is available I'd still design to less so that you would have the ability to add a sprinkler later on, or have the flexibility to upgrade nozzles if required.


Understood, I'm doing the rainbird design and using 15 gpm rate. I've drawn the picture of my lawn and will send it off Tuesday. I will learn all I can BEFORE I undertake this.

Thanks


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## CenlaLowell

This is the sample I'm going with for this empty lot.


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## CenlaLowell

Got a question, I'm thinking about the rest of this plan and I'm wondering how can I do the rest of the yard without adding a third meter. First thing I would have to get under this


Then Im wonder how would the run look from here on. It's a lot of pipe and pressure lost will be big. Lot 22, 23 is what I'm talking about. When I get a drone my post will be much easier.


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## GrassOnTheHills

Couple things:

I just completed my own install and one of the things I found misleading about the "safe flow" was that it recommends 11GPM for 3/4" copper pipe. When I then download and use his tables for determining pressure loss and velocity for the same pipe, 11" was much too high, and I needed to be below 9 for even the thickest copper to be considered safe. I never figured that out, but all I'm saying here is make sure you compare the chart posted earlier with his tables and make dang sure you want be exceeding that safe velocity.

Secondly, if you're worried about getting under the driveway, I had to do that during my install and it only took me about 10 mins. Buy the Orbit walkway kit online or from a big box stores, it's like $10 or less and fits on 1" or 3/4" PVC and you just attach your garden hose to blast under it. Depending on your soil, it could be very easy or very difficult to impossible, but if you're planning on doing runs in PVC I assume you've already determined that you don't have very rocky soil.

I plan on doing a write-up about my install and all the things learned. I think I may be able to post it tonight depending on whether I have free time. If not I promise to do it tomorrow. Keep an eye out for it, if I don't forget I'll tag you.


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## CenlaLowell

GrassOnTheHills said:


> Couple things:
> 
> I just completed my own install and one of the things I found misleading about the "safe flow" was that it recommends 11GPM for 3/4" copper pipe. When I then download and use his tables for determining pressure loss and velocity for the same pipe, 11" was much too high, and I needed to be below 9 for even the thickest copper to be considered safe. I never figured that out, but all I'm saying here is make sure you compare the chart posted earlier with his tables and make dang sure you want be exceeding that safe velocity.
> 
> Secondly, if you're worried about getting under the driveway, I had to do that during my install and it only took me about 10 mins. Buy the Orbit walkway kit online or from a big box stores, it's like $10 or less and fits on 1" or 3/4" PVC and you just attach your garden hose to blast under it. Depending on your soil, it could be very easy or very difficult to impossible, but if you're planning on doing runs in PVC I assume you've already determined that you don't have very rocky soil.
> 
> I plan on doing a write-up about my install and all the things learned. I think I may be able to post it tonight depending on whether I have free time. If not I promise to do it tomorrow. Keep an eye out for it, if I don't forget I'll tag you.


I have the chart but what tables are you talking about??? I'm very new to this so explain away... Thanks man I will read it and learn all I can from it.

What I'm thinking is i really don't want to put a third water meter in the backyard for the other side of this home so if I get under the driveway maybe I can prevent doing that.

I have a lot to learn if I'm going to accomplish this so I will definitely lean on you guys alot


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## GrassOnTheHills

CenlaLowell said:


> GrassOnTheHills said:
> 
> 
> 
> Couple things:
> 
> I just completed my own install and one of the things I found misleading about the "safe flow" was that it recommends 11GPM for 3/4" copper pipe. When I then download and use his tables for determining pressure loss and velocity for the same pipe, 11" was much too high, and I needed to be below 9 for even the thickest copper to be considered safe. I never figured that out, but all I'm saying here is make sure you compare the chart posted earlier with his tables and make dang sure you want be exceeding that safe velocity.
> 
> Secondly, if you're worried about getting under the driveway, I had to do that during my install and it only took me about 10 mins. Buy the Orbit walkway kit online or from a big box stores, it's like $10 or less and fits on 1" or 3/4" PVC and you just attach your garden hose to blast under it. Depending on your soil, it could be very easy or very difficult to impossible, but if you're planning on doing runs in PVC I assume you've already determined that you don't have very rocky soil.
> 
> I plan on doing a write-up about my install and all the things learned. I think I may be able to post it tonight depending on whether I have free time. If not I promise to do it tomorrow. Keep an eye out for it, if I don't forget I'll tag you.
> 
> 
> 
> I have the chart but what tables are you talking about??? I'm very new to this so explain away... Thanks man I will read it and learn all I can from it.
> 
> What I'm thinking is i really don't want to put a third water meter in the backyard for the other side of this home so if I get under the driveway maybe I can prevent doing that.
> 
> I have a lot to learn if I'm going to accomplish this so I will definitely lean on you guys alot
Click to expand...

Check out these tables: https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/spreadsheets-for-calculating-pipe-pressure-loss/

I'd use the one for your most restrictive pipe (so if you had, say, 3/4" copper line coming in and 1" copper after the meter, use the 3/4"... I don't think that would ever happen, but it's just an example). For me, I had 3/4" copper from the mainline right to my backflow preventer, so I used the most restrictive copper type in my calculations. I still don't actually know which type of copper (K,L, or M) I have in my house, but if it's K, I have 1 or 2 zones that are pulling too high a flow... But I think it's unlikely I have K.

I can't really speak to the multiple meter thing, all my zones are on my normal house meter. I have a flow sensor that monitors usage for me and hopefully I can get the city to deduct the usage from my sewage costs, but I didn't get a direct answer before installing on that. A new meter installed was like $500+ so I figured I'd run the risk of asking to deduct (which I know is common practice some places), we'll see if it pays off. I'd recommend maybe giving yourself enough time to TRY to get under the driveway as the first thing you do after breaking ground. If you CAN'T, then have the people come in and install the 3rd meter (giving yourself enough time for delays, paperwork, or whatever may delay that install). Having a backup plan for your backup plan is huge going into the install. I had to change my plan several times when I actually got into the ground due to different obstacles. Will write about that in my post.


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## g-man

Cenia, i'm very confused by your plans. How many lots do you own? How many do you want to water? Are you planning to sell them later?


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## TSGarp007

GrassOnTheHills said:


> ...
> Check out these tables: https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/spreadsheets-for-calculating-pipe-pressure-loss/
> 
> I'd use the one for your most restrictive pipe (so if you had, say, 3/4" copper line coming in and 1" copper after the meter, use the 3/4"... I don't think that would ever happen, but it's just an example). For me, I had 3/4" copper from the mainline right to my backflow preventer, so I used the most restrictive copper type in my calculations. I still don't actually know which type of copper (K,L, or M) I have in my house, but if it's K, I have 1 or 2 zones that are pulling too high a flow... But I think it's unlikely I have K.


What do you mean use the one for the most restrictive pipe? Those files on that website don't work for me, but I'm assuming they can handle different pipe sizes for each pipe section right? Although recently hsvtoolfool, I think, reminded me about the pressure loss occurring prior to the meter (which is on the tutorial website), which takes some knowledge from the utility or a good guess about type and length of pipe immediately prior to your meter. So that would be the first section to calculate pressure loss, but all the other sections of pipe can be calculated individually based on flow and pipe size/type. I didn't include the pipe leading to my meter in my calculations, though I think that run is probably really short anyway and luckily it didn't matter.


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## GrassOnTheHills

TSGarp007 said:


> GrassOnTheHills said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Check out these tables: https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/spreadsheets-for-calculating-pipe-pressure-loss/
> 
> I'd use the one for your most restrictive pipe (so if you had, say, 3/4" copper line coming in and 1" copper after the meter, use the 3/4"... I don't think that would ever happen, but it's just an example). For me, I had 3/4" copper from the mainline right to my backflow preventer, so I used the most restrictive copper type in my calculations. I still don't actually know which type of copper (K,L, or M) I have in my house, but if it's K, I have 1 or 2 zones that are pulling too high a flow... But I think it's unlikely I have K.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean use the one for the most restrictive pipe? Those files on that website don't work for me, but I'm assuming they can handle different pipe sizes for each pipe section right? Although recently hsvtoolfool, I think, reminded me about the pressure loss occurring prior to the meter (which is on the tutorial website), which takes some knowledge from the utility or a good guess about type and length of pipe immediately prior to your meter. So that would be the first section to calculate pressure loss, but all the other sections of pipe can be calculated individually based on flow and pipe size/type. I didn't include the pipe leading to my meter in my calculations, though I think that run is probably really short anyway and luckily it didn't matter.
Click to expand...

Each table is for a different pipe material (poly, pex, copper, etc.) so you'll need to use as many tables as you have different materials, but yes if you only have one material you will use one table and then do your runs based on size. But you will need to make sure no run is over a safe velocity which the table indicates for you).

Regarding the run prior to your meter: Yes, I called my water company and they were able to tell me roughly the distance and the material used (in my case 75' of 3/4" copper) which I took into consideration. You should 100% take this into account if possible (sounds like you already installed, so I'm glad it all worked out!). As it turns out I slacked a little during my pressure loss planning and the zone farthest away on the mainline does have (I think) some minor pressure issues that I've yet to look into. It may just be the RainBird sprayheads that suck, but I haven't really looked into it enough much. All the heads come up and spray about the same, I just don't think they're hitting the full 8' distance they should be hitting. All that said, I think this is an important piece of planning not to be overlooked like I (sort of) did.


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## CenlaLowell

g-man said:


> Cenia, i'm very confused by your plans. How many lots do you own? How many do you want to water? Are you planning to sell them later?


I own three lots. Eventually I will water everything but I'm starting on lot 24. I will never sell these lots.


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## CenlaLowell

TSGarp007 said:


> GrassOnTheHills said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Check out these tables: https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/spreadsheets-for-calculating-pipe-pressure-loss/
> 
> I'd use the one for your most restrictive pipe (so if you had, say, 3/4" copper line coming in and 1" copper after the meter, use the 3/4"... I don't think that would ever happen, but it's just an example). For me, I had 3/4" copper from the mainline right to my backflow preventer, so I used the most restrictive copper type in my calculations. I still don't actually know which type of copper (K,L, or M) I have in my house, but if it's K, I have 1 or 2 zones that are pulling too high a flow... But I think it's unlikely I have K.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean use the one for the most restrictive pipe? Those files on that website don't work for me, but I'm assuming they can handle different pipe sizes for each pipe section right? Although recently hsvtoolfool, I think, reminded me about the pressure loss occurring prior to the meter (which is on the tutorial website), which takes some knowledge from the utility or a good guess about type and length of pipe immediately prior to your meter. So that would be the first section to calculate pressure loss, but all the other sections of pipe can be calculated individually based on flow and pipe size/type. I didn't include the pipe leading to my meter in my calculations, though I think that run is probably really short anyway and luckily it didn't matter.
Click to expand...

I need to read this really well because I was going to go with 1 inch for everything. Water meter, pvc, and everything else will be 1 inch


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## GrassOnTheHills

CenlaLowell said:


> TSGarp007 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GrassOnTheHills said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Check out these tables: https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/spreadsheets-for-calculating-pipe-pressure-loss/
> 
> I'd use the one for your most restrictive pipe (so if you had, say, 3/4" copper line coming in and 1" copper after the meter, use the 3/4"... I don't think that would ever happen, but it's just an example). For me, I had 3/4" copper from the mainline right to my backflow preventer, so I used the most restrictive copper type in my calculations. I still don't actually know which type of copper (K,L, or M) I have in my house, but if it's K, I have 1 or 2 zones that are pulling too high a flow... But I think it's unlikely I have K.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean use the one for the most restrictive pipe? Those files on that website don't work for me, but I'm assuming they can handle different pipe sizes for each pipe section right? Although recently hsvtoolfool, I think, reminded me about the pressure loss occurring prior to the meter (which is on the tutorial website), which takes some knowledge from the utility or a good guess about type and length of pipe immediately prior to your meter. So that would be the first section to calculate pressure loss, but all the other sections of pipe can be calculated individually based on flow and pipe size/type. I didn't include the pipe leading to my meter in my calculations, though I think that run is probably really short anyway and luckily it didn't matter.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I need to read this really well because I was going to go with 1 inch for everything. Water meter, pvc, and everything else will be 1 inch
Click to expand...

That's likely fine and the right way to go. As the tutorials point out, bigger is almost always better than smaller. Many believe a smaller pipe size increases pressure but that's not true. Most likely if your house was built recently it has a 1" supply line anyway, so it'd be consistent from mainline to head. And with 1" pipes you have MUCH more freedom when it comes to GPM than at 3/4". Our next house will have a 1" line or we're not buying it


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## TSGarp007

GrassOnTheHills said:


> TSGarp007 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GrassOnTheHills said:
> 
> 
> 
> ...
> Check out these tables: https://www.irrigationtutorials.com/spreadsheets-for-calculating-pipe-pressure-loss/
> 
> I'd use the one for your most restrictive pipe (so if you had, say, 3/4" copper line coming in and 1" copper after the meter, use the 3/4"... I don't think that would ever happen, but it's just an example). For me, I had 3/4" copper from the mainline right to my backflow preventer, so I used the most restrictive copper type in my calculations. I still don't actually know which type of copper (K,L, or M) I have in my house, but if it's K, I have 1 or 2 zones that are pulling too high a flow... But I think it's unlikely I have K.
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean use the one for the most restrictive pipe? Those files on that website don't work for me, but I'm assuming they can handle different pipe sizes for each pipe section right? Although recently hsvtoolfool, I think, reminded me about the pressure loss occurring prior to the meter (which is on the tutorial website), which takes some knowledge from the utility or a good guess about type and length of pipe immediately prior to your meter. So that would be the first section to calculate pressure loss, but all the other sections of pipe can be calculated individually based on flow and pipe size/type. I didn't include the pipe leading to my meter in my calculations, though I think that run is probably really short anyway and luckily it didn't matter.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Each table is for a different pipe material (poly, pex, copper, etc.) so you'll need to use as many tables as you have different materials, but yes if you only have one material you will use one table and then do your runs based on size. But you will need to make sure no run is over a safe velocity which the table indicates for you).
> 
> Regarding the run prior to your meter: Yes, I called my water company and they were able to tell me roughly the distance and the material used (in my case 75' of 3/4" copper) which I took into consideration. You should 100% take this into account if possible (sounds like you already installed, so I'm glad it all worked out!). As it turns out I slacked a little during my pressure loss planning and the zone farthest away on the mainline does have (I think) some minor pressure issues that I've yet to look into. It may just be the RainBird sprayheads that suck, but I haven't really looked into it enough much. All the heads come up and spray about the same, I just don't think they're hitting the full 8' distance they should be hitting. All that said, I think this is an important piece of planning not to be overlooked like I (sort of) did.
Click to expand...

Yeah it's interesting because I distinctly remember reading that section of the tutorial, but because I didn't know the info I just used real data instead to feed my design. Then I forgot about it till recently! Basically in my design I measured my water pressure while water was flowing. One spot is a spigot right after the backflow preventer. I could get 15 gpm there at 17 psi. Then I checked the nozzles on existing irrigation zones (I did a reno) to get gpm totals and found I could get 12.5 with good pressure (can't remember exactly). I used 12.5 as the max gpm for the design. I sized up my mainline to handle up to 15 gpm with negligible pressure loss, and each section of pipe thereafter such that at most I've only lost a few psi by any individual sprinkler. The system is drastically over sized and I believe not approaching any velocity limits or suffering from any friction loss issues, with the exception possibly I suppose of the utility line to my meter, which I have no knowledge of. From the meter to my backflow is existing class 200 pipe which can handle more than I'm putting through it according to tables I found. After install I checked all zones and I still had pressure in the mid forties while they are running (static pressure is around 55). I guess all that to say the issue wasn't actually ignored, just tackled another way.

Back to @CenlaLowell, don't worry, just use those tutorial files, or even just pressure loss tables, and post your plan on here and usually g-man or someone else really experienced can notice possible issues without much effort.


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## GrassOnTheHills

> After install I checked all zones and I still had pressure in the mid forties while they are running (static pressure is around 55).


@TSGarp007 how did you go about doing this, did you measure at the valve or at the head? I am wondering if the first part of my diagnosis on my wonky zone can be checking the PSI as close to the heads as possible.


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## TSGarp007

Unfortunately I still measured at my spigot. So any pressure loss due to friction or elevation after that location won't be measured. In my case I'm super confident I don't have that problem though. You can, I'm sure, just take off a sprinkler and replace it with a pressure gauge.


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## CenlaLowell

Okay sent that plan off to rainbird yesterday. I will finishing drawing the plan for the rest of the house in a few weeks, hopefully.

Questions any online store y'all buying the pvc from??? Reason I ask I'm going to design my valves with unions like pete from gcu turf done, but those things are 6$ a union at lowes. Online just a quick search and I found them for 2$


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## GrassOnTheHills

CenlaLowell said:


> Okay sent that plan off to rainbird yesterday. I will finishing drawing the plan for the rest of the house in a few weeks, hopefully.
> 
> Questions any online store y'all buying the pvc from??? Reason I ask I'm going to design my valves with unions like pete from gcu turf done, but those things are 6$ a union at lowes. Online just a quick search and I found them for 2$


I didn't do this, care to share a pic/spec? I feel like my whole valve assembly (minus the valves, of course) cost like less than $10 lol. Do the unions make it more serviceable?


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## CenlaLowell

GrassOnTheHills said:


> CenlaLowell said:
> 
> 
> 
> Okay sent that plan off to rainbird yesterday. I will finishing drawing the plan for the rest of the house in a few weeks, hopefully.
> 
> Questions any online store y'all buying the pvc from??? Reason I ask I'm going to design my valves with unions like pete from gcu turf done, but those things are 6$ a union at lowes. Online just a quick search and I found them for 2$
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't do this, care to share a pic/spec? I feel like my whole valve assembly (minus the valves, of course) cost like less than $10 lol. Do the unions make it more serviceable?
Click to expand...

Hell yes, they way he did it you can disassemble everything with a few turns.



Here's the video it happens at 9:00-11:00


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## GrassOnTheHills

Pretty neat. I'd say it's worth it to order them if you have the time -- but 9/10 the shipping costs will outweigh the savings. I know Sprinkler Warehouse (where I got all my irrigation parts from) had some fittings, not sure if they have those though. Just use caution if you use them... horrible return policy.


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## CenlaLowell

GrassOnTheHills said:


> Pretty neat. I'd say it's worth it to order them if you have the time -- but 9/10 the shipping costs will outweigh the savings. I know Sprinkler Warehouse (where I got all my irrigation parts from) had some fittings, not sure if they have those though. Just use caution if you use them... horrible return policy.


Thanks the shipping is free over 99$ so when I do order parts I will make sure I meet that threshold.


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## GrassOnTheHills

CenlaLowell said:


> GrassOnTheHills said:
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty neat. I'd say it's worth it to order them if you have the time -- but 9/10 the shipping costs will outweigh the savings. I know Sprinkler Warehouse (where I got all my irrigation parts from) had some fittings, not sure if they have those though. Just use caution if you use them... horrible return policy.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks the shipping is free over 99$ so when I do order parts I will make sure I meet that threshold.
Click to expand...

Yeah their free shipping is great. What I meant though is that for returns, they take back the shipping cost for sending the product to you (even if it was free shipping), charge a 20% restocking fee, and make you pay the return shipping. All in all I ended up SPENDING $150 to return some larger items (valve boxes and wire I didn't need), and that was after calling them and convincing them to waive the 20% fee on 2/3 items I returned. So just be sure not to order anything large/heavy that you only "might" need.


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## g-man

I really like these manifolds. https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/products/lawn-irrigation/valves-manifolds/valve-manifolds/standard-manifold-kits

Easy to add/remove a valve. Use this on the other side of the valve to go to Poly or there is one to go to PVC. https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/dura-sprinkler-valve-manifold-parts-335-010


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## mwemaxxowner

GrassOnTheHills said:


> CenlaLowell said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TSGarp007 said:
> 
> 
> 
> What do you mean use the one for the most restrictive pipe? Those files on that website don't work for me, but I'm assuming they can handle different pipe sizes for each pipe section right? Although recently hsvtoolfool, I think, reminded me about the pressure loss occurring prior to the meter (which is on the tutorial website), which takes some knowledge from the utility or a good guess about type and length of pipe immediately prior to your meter. So that would be the first section to calculate pressure loss, but all the other sections of pipe can be calculated individually based on flow and pipe size/type. I didn't include the pipe leading to my meter in my calculations, though I think that run is probably really short anyway and luckily it didn't matter.
> 
> 
> 
> I need to read this really well because I was going to go with 1 inch for everything. Water meter, pvc, and everything else will be 1 inch
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's likely fine and the right way to go. As the tutorials point out, bigger is almost always better than smaller. Many believe a smaller pipe size increases pressure but that's not true. Most likely if your house was built recently it has a 1" supply line anyway, so it'd be consistent from mainline to head. And with 1" pipes you have MUCH more freedom when it comes to GPM than at 3/4". Our next house will have a 1" line or we're not buying it
Click to expand...

I was actually blessed with main line that's about 80' of PEX! 😔


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## GrassOnTheHills

mwemaxxowner said:


> GrassOnTheHills said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CenlaLowell said:
> 
> 
> 
> I need to read this really well because I was going to go with 1 inch for everything. Water meter, pvc, and everything else will be 1 inch
> 
> 
> 
> That's likely fine and the right way to go. As the tutorials point out, bigger is almost always better than smaller. Many believe a smaller pipe size increases pressure but that's not true. Most likely if your house was built recently it has a 1" supply line anyway, so it'd be consistent from mainline to head. And with 1" pipes you have MUCH more freedom when it comes to GPM than at 3/4". Our next house will have a 1" line or we're not buying it
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I was actually blessed with main line that's about 80' of PEX! 😔
Click to expand...

Oh dangggg. Is it 1"? That's like mega restrictive


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## mwemaxxowner

GrassOnTheHills said:


> mwemaxxowner said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GrassOnTheHills said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's likely fine and the right way to go. As the tutorials point out, bigger is almost always better than smaller. Many believe a smaller pipe size increases pressure but that's not true. Most likely if your house was built recently it has a 1" supply line anyway, so it'd be consistent from mainline to head. And with 1" pipes you have MUCH more freedom when it comes to GPM than at 3/4". Our next house will have a 1" line or we're not buying it
> 
> 
> 
> I was actually blessed with main line that's about 80' of PEX! 😔
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh dangggg. Is it 1"? That's like mega restrictive
Click to expand...

Oh shoot. I meant to include that. It's 3/4 😔.

I have 7.5 gpm at the meter, and by my spigot, which is just before the main enters the house, I only have 5 gpm.

Some day I will replace the main with 1" pvc. Lot of other irons in the fire right now.


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## CenlaLowell

mwemaxxowner said:


> GrassOnTheHills said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mwemaxxowner said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was actually blessed with main line that's about 80' of PEX! 😔
> 
> 
> 
> Oh dangggg. Is it 1"? That's like mega restrictive
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Oh shoot. I meant to include that. It's 3/4 😔.
> 
> I have 7.5 gpm at the meter, and by my spigot, which is just before the main enters the house, I only have 5 gpm.
> 
> Some day I will replace the main with 1" pvc. Lot of other irons in the fire right now.
Click to expand...

7.5 at the meter!!!! How? I hope I don't have this problem when they install my new 1 inch meter


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## GrassOnTheHills

CenlaLowell said:


> mwemaxxowner said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> GrassOnTheHills said:
> 
> 
> 
> Oh dangggg. Is it 1"? That's like mega restrictive
> 
> 
> 
> Oh shoot. I meant to include that. It's 3/4 😔.
> 
> I have 7.5 gpm at the meter, and by my spigot, which is just before the main enters the house, I only have 5 gpm.
> 
> Some day I will replace the main with 1" pvc. Lot of other irons in the fire right now.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 7.5 at the meter!!!! How? I hope I don't have this problem when they install my new 1 inch meter
Click to expand...

Your meter is being installed separate of your house supply, yeah? I can't imagine you'd have an issue unless your city intentionally reduces flow for some reason (irrigation tutorials had some interesting examples of this). You'd likely already know about this if you had low flow at your house supply.


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## CenlaLowell

GrassOnTheHills said:


> CenlaLowell said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mwemaxxowner said:
> 
> 
> 
> Oh shoot. I meant to include that. It's 3/4 😔.
> 
> I have 7.5 gpm at the meter, and by my spigot, which is just before the main enters the house, I only have 5 gpm.
> 
> Some day I will replace the main with 1" pvc. Lot of other irons in the fire right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 7.5 at the meter!!!! How? I hope I don't have this problem when they install my new 1 inch meter
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Your meter is being installed separate of your house supply, yeah? I can't imagine you'd have an issue unless your city intentionally reduces flow for some reason (irrigation tutorials had some interesting examples of this). You'd likely already know about this if you had low flow at your house supply.
Click to expand...

There's no low flow at my home thank goodness. Yes it's a separate meter from the house.


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## mwemaxxowner

I have two 3/4 meters. One is an irrigation meter, one is for my house. They both measured 32 psi and 7.5 gpm RIGHT AT the meter. 🤦🏼‍♂️I called to ask them if this was normal or if something was wrong, and last week they ran me a larger supply line (I'm assuming. I came home and saw the results of them trenching it in). Since they did that, I have 8.5 gpm. 


This has JUST happened, and I wasn't thinking about the recent increase when I made that statement above.

Next door, at my grandparent-in-laws, they have an irrigation meter with a 1" tap and a 1" meter and it produces 32 psi and 10 gpm.

I could pay $1400 for a 1" tap and meter but I think for such a marginal increase, I'll just work with what I have.


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## CenlaLowell

mwemaxxowner said:


> I have two 3/4 meters. One is an irrigation meter, one is for my house. They both measured 32 psi and 7.5 gpm RIGHT AT the meter. 🤦🏼‍♂️I called to ask them if this was normal or if something was wrong, and last week they ran me a larger supply line (I'm assuming. I came home and saw the results of them trenching it in). Since they did that, I have 8.5 gpm.
> 
> 
> This has JUST happened, and I wasn't thinking about the recent increase when I made that statement above.
> 
> Next door, at my grandparent-in-laws, they have an irrigation meter with a 1" tap and a 1" meter and it produces 32 psi and 10 gpm.
> 
> I could pay $1400 for a 1" tap and meter but I think for such a marginal increase, I'll just work with what I have.


Understood, what I'm thinking about thats got me concerned with your numbers is at my spigot (3/4 water meter here)on the house I had 70 psi with 6 gpm which is unacceptable to even try this irrigation with. I'm going to ask them before I get this meter what kind of numbers I can expect.

Update, called water department and talked to a employee and on Monday they will let me know what the average water pressure and gpm for my area. I won't do this job without at least 10 gpm. I'll keep you all posted.


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## CenlaLowell

Spoke with the city water department today and he said I can expect 50gpm out the 1 inch water meter. Wow!! Was my only reply. Next is to see if they will let me put a water meter where I suggested.


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## g-man

50gpm from a 1in is way above safe.


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## CenlaLowell

g-man said:


> 50gpm from a 1in is way above safe.


That's what I was wondering that number seems high, but what can I do about that? I really wonder if he wasn't pulling my leg.

It's also the same main line that feeds my home, so what would that mean for my home??


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## mwemaxxowner

If it actually did flow that much, you would just limit your design pressure to safe flows.


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## CenlaLowell

mwemaxxowner said:


> If it actually did flow that much, you would just limit your design pressure to safe flows.


Design pressure??? I'll wait to rainbird send this design because I have no idea what your talking about. Does it mean specific sprinklers, pipe size, or cut back on flow, etc


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## GrassOnTheHills

CenlaLowell said:


> mwemaxxowner said:
> 
> 
> 
> If it actually did flow that much, you would just limit your design pressure to safe flows.
> 
> 
> 
> Design pressure??? I'll wait to rainbird send this design because I have no idea what your talking about. Does it mean specific sprinklers, pipe size, or cut back on flow, etc
Click to expand...

Yes, you'd only "demand" up to the safe flow from your system. Just because the mainline can supply in doesn't mean you need to request it. Same as opening a hose bib. A hose bib can supply more than is safe to run for long periods of time. Opening a hose bib to half throttle is akin to only requesting a portion of what can be provided. You're still going to want to figure out what a safe flow is for your specific situation though because rain bird needs that on the design request form. You can't put 50 gallons per minute on that.


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## CenlaLowell

GrassOnTheHills said:


> CenlaLowell said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mwemaxxowner said:
> 
> 
> 
> If it actually did flow that much, you would just limit your design pressure to safe flows.
> 
> 
> 
> Design pressure??? I'll wait to rainbird send this design because I have no idea what your talking about. Does it mean specific sprinklers, pipe size, or cut back on flow, etc
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, you'd only "demand" up to the safe flow from your system. Just because the mainline can supply in doesn't mean you need to request it. Same as opening a hose bib. A hose bib can supply more than is safe to run for long periods of time. Opening a hose bib to half throttle is akin to only requesting a portion of what can be provided. You're still going to want to figure out what a safe flow is for your specific situation though because rain bird needs that on the design request form. You can't put 50 gallons per minute on that.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I understand now. On the rainbird design I put 15 gpm as a estimate based on the pipe table.


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## mwemaxxowner

I should have said design flow. Oops! Sorry about that!


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## CenlaLowell

mwemaxxowner said:


> I should have said design flow. Oops! Sorry about that!


No problem I'm a newbie to all this stuff


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## TSGarp007

50 gpm! Up-size your pipes and get golf course sprinklers... lol


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## CenlaLowell

TSGarp007 said:


> 50 gpm! Up-size your pipes and get golf course sprinklers... lol


Lol, this will be a long drawn out process for me. Of course I'll let everyone know if this 50 gpm is true


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## CenlaLowell

I think everything is a go. City approved the meter and now I'm just waiting on this plan to come back. Next I will send off another plan for the rest of the yard.


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## CenlaLowell

I was watching a video and now I have a question. Most irrigation set ups you see when the pipe is laid they make t's which of course means your trenching more, but look at this picture he didn't do that. He dig just straight lines and put the pipe and the sprinkler heads in the same area. Is this ok??


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## GrassOnTheHills

CenlaLowell said:


> I was watching a video and now I have a question. Most irrigation set ups you see when the pipe is laid they make t's which of course means your trenching more, but look at this picture he didn't do that. He dig just straight lines and put the pipe and the sprinkler heads in the same area. Is this ok??


Yeah, the majority of my heads were pretty much directly over my laterals. Not sure there's any drawback to that approach and I didn't read anything indicating that in my research.

Edit: I used 6" swing risers so there was no real way for me to get too far away from the laterals anyway.


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## TSGarp007

As long as the pipe is sized big enough for the volume of water in each pipe section, then it's not a problem.


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## CenlaLowell

Appreciate yall answer the question as I will probably have plenty on this project


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## CenlaLowell

The rainbird design came in. Keep in mind this is just for one side of the house I'll send the other one in next week I think.


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## GrassOnTheHills

One thing I'll say about their spray nozzles (actually this applies to all nozzles types) is you really want to make sure the max throw of the nozzle is at least a couple feet farther than what you actually need for that area. I.e you wouldn't want to use a 13-15ft spray nozzle to throw 15', you'd want to have that head in a place that only needs 12'. I have 8' heads in my side yard that's 8' wide and they don't throw nearly far enough for head to head coverage in typical use.


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## TSGarp007

Check for areas that are getting less sprinkler coverage than others and try and figure out if they'll be getting significantly less water than others. This is determined by the nozzle, radius, and angle of coverage (for most sprinklers). You can do a little excel spreadsheet to help calculate precip rate. You can compensate for less sprinklers hitting one spot by using a higher gpm nozzle for one of them, or add a sprinkler, etc. It's not going to be perfect, but you don't want one area getting 0.75" per hour and another only 0.25" an hour, etc. You have SA grass, so you know it has to be watered... you may end up watering that zone 2-3 times longer than otherwise required, just to get that one spot properly irrigated, or you break out your hose and sprinkler again. This is also why I recommend staying under your design gpm for each zone, that way you can plus up nozzles or add more sprinklers later, once you find out that in real life one area just isn't getting enough water.


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## CenlaLowell

GrassOnTheHills said:


> One thing I'll say about their spray nozzles (actually this applies to all nozzles types) is you really want to make sure the max throw of the nozzle is at least a couple feet farther than what you actually need for that area. I.e you wouldn't want to use a 13-15ft spray nozzle to throw 15', you'd want to have that head in a place that only needs 12'. I have 8' heads in my side yard that's 8' wide and they don't throw nearly far enough for head to head coverage in typical use.


Understood, this is definitely going to be an undertaking. It's almost overwhelming looking at this graph knowing I have another one to send them


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## mha2345

@CenlaLowell Did this ever come to fruition?


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## BBLOCK

mha2345 said:


> @CenlaLowell Did this ever come to fruition?


yeah what happened with this?


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## Mark2

@CenlaLowell Bump. Really curious if you went forward with this rainbird plan


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## CenlaLowell

Mark2 said:


> @CenlaLowell Bump. Really curious if you went forward with this rainbird plan


Nope life happened still haven't started yet


----------

