# Does everyone with an imperfect yard double-cut?



## fp_911 (Apr 10, 2017)

I'm still running into issues when I mow where I have raised areas based on my landscaping.

I've checked the level of my mower and it is completely even. Used both a micrometer and even a level to make sure of that. But for some reason when I mow it gets these uneven creases. I know my yard isn't completely flat but I was hoping the double rollers of the GM1000 would help to work around that.

Am I going to have to cut in a different direction every time? I know when I have before I still end up with a bit of a grid pattern. I never get that absolutely perfect cut some of you guys do. Any recommendations?


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## CenlaLowell (Apr 21, 2017)

I do not cut my yard low, but I will tell you I DONOT double cut. It looks like you need to level the yard withsome sand to stop the scalping. Someone that uses a reel will chime in.


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## raldridge2315 (Jul 1, 2017)

So none of us has a perfect lawn an.d many of us double cut. From the pics, you need sand to smooth it out.


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## ThickLawnThickWife (Jul 23, 2018)

Yes I have to double cut almost every time. I have even triple cut to make it look perfect.


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## driver_7 (Jun 28, 2018)

I double cut mine every time, otherwise it looks uneven and patchy. My front yard is pretty bumpy and could use a good leveling.


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## fp_911 (Apr 10, 2017)

Thanks everyone, I figured sand was the answer but it's just I don't see many people here with this same issue so figured there had to be a way around it.

I think even if I double-cut I'll still have some problems because the bumps exist in all directions.

Oh well the growing season is only for a few more weeks, then I can start thinking about sand for next year.


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## Cjames1603 (Jul 25, 2018)

I don't like to double cut unless I'm having company over. I'm in need of some leveling too and am planning it next year. I tend to get even more scalp when I double cut. Remember you see things that "they" don't see from the road. Also my guess is you already dominate your neighbors with a single cut. Looks good.


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## tblood (Aug 7, 2018)

fp_911 said:


> Thanks everyone, I figured sand was the answer but it's just I don't see many people here with this same issue so figured there had to be a way around it.
> 
> I think even if I double-cut I'll still have some problems because the bumps exist in all directions.
> 
> Oh well the growing season is only for a few more weeks, then I can start thinking about sand for next year.


I have this issue in my back yard. I cut with a rotary first, then go over it with a manual Scott's reel. The results are better than I expected.

I just got a swardman for the front yard, so I guess I'll try it in the back too. My front yard is not level at all, but I cut it a under 1" and I don't have to double cut unless I just want to.


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## TonyC (May 17, 2018)

I am using a spot leveling approach until I can get to Spring for a more complete leveling. HowToWithDoc has a video Leveling Lawns Prevent Scalping that walks you through the technique. Basically, find a scalp or a HOC difference. Look around that spot and you will find a low spot or a high spot. If you find a low spot, you can use spot level with a sand/soil mix like in the video. If you find a high spot, you can use a hand aerator at an angle to remove soil.

I highly recommend spot leveling now because you can only raise the grade so much before you choke the grass (I have Zeon Zoysia which is very slow). If you have a low spot that will need a lot of sand to level, you're likely going to have to do it a second time anyway.

Additionally, cut across rows at a 45° angle. The helps especially if you've laid sod and have noticeable gaps between the rows.

A rolling might help if you're not at risk of compaction.

Cheers!

TonyC


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## FlaDave (Jul 10, 2018)

It was suggested in another thread that you could use a garden hose or even a pressure washer to spray the high spots down into the low spots. Its worth a try. I did a few spots in my yard this way and it worked out nicely. Your yard appears to have tall bumps close together.


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## TheTurfTamer (Aug 8, 2018)

I started out with a really bumpy lawn as well. This is the steps I chose to take before I purchased a greens mower.
It took 2 seasons.
I am in North Alabama. Heavy Clay 
Get a roller. 
https://www.amazon.com/Brinly-PRT-48SBH-485-Pound-Behind-48-Inch/dp/B0026TFEQ8/ref=sr_1_7?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1534950338&sr=1-7&keywords=poly+roller

This is what I use. Every month I roll my yard . Work from one side to the other same way that you mow. Its a fast process that has a huge result. To Avoid compaction issues , I core aerate and remove the cores and fill with sand ( topdress ).
This prevents compaction and increases root depth and overall health of the soil.

From the looks of your pictures You will need to take a more drastic step first. Sand will help but will wash away slowly.

I would rent a 2500lb roller.

Core Aerate and remove plugs.

Water the yard early in the morning for a good soak and mark the spots that are collecting water.( low spots )
Let the grass dry out ( about 4-6 hours later ) , but make sure that your substratum is still wet.

Start at the highest spots in the yard and work towards the spots you marked.
Also crisscross starting at one side of the yard to the other. think of rolling pizza dough.
Try to stay in a straight line and overlap a couple of inches.
You will be able to see a roll line. 
Topdress with sand and brush in.

This took me 2 days last August.

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## Xoque (Jul 10, 2018)

My advise is don't low cut all the time. I have bumps and uneven spots that I will fix later. Just raise your cut. I have cut off my bermuda to the brown part and watered. It came back in a week or two even greener. Well that is an illusion because I don't see the brown parts as easy. Bermuda is very resilient. Once you get the spots evened out you notice a big difference. I'm going to rent a power rake attachment for a day and take care of mine next year before spring.


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## Cjames1603 (Jul 25, 2018)

That is not a total illusion. Bermuda when cut low can be trained to green at that level. It also will get thicker. If that were not the case there would not be the beautiful freshly cut striped lawns in this forum cut at .25. But leveling is important.


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## fp_911 (Apr 10, 2017)

Cjames1603 said:


> I don't like to double cut unless I'm having company over. I'm in need of some leveling too and am planning it next year. I tend to get even more scalp when I double cut. Remember you see things that "they" don't see from the road. Also my guess is you already dominate your neighbors with a single cut. Looks good.


Yes I know, most people just see this when they view my lawn and for them it's "perfect" but of course I know otherwise:





TonyC said:


> I am using a spot leveling approach until I can get to Spring for a more complete leveling. HowToWithDoc has a video Leveling Lawns Prevent Scalping that walks you through the technique. Basically, find a scalp or a HOC difference. Look around that spot and you will find a low spot or a high spot. If you find a low spot, you can use spot level with a sand/soil mix like in the video. If you find a high spot, you can use a hand aerator at an angle to remove soil.
> 
> I highly recommend spot leveling now because you can only raise the grade so much before you choke the grass (I have Zeon Zoysia which is very slow). If you have a low spot that will need a lot of sand to level, you're likely going to have to do it a second time anyway.
> 
> ...


I did some spot leveling last year and that certainly helped. But I didn't invest this year because I wasn't sure if we would be staying in this home or relocating. Next year though I'll plan on getting more sand to help with this issue.



FlaDave said:


> It was suggested in another thread that you could use a garden hose or even a pressure washer to spray the high spots down into the low spots. Its worth a try. I did a few spots in my yard this way and it worked out nicely. Your yard appears to have tall bumps close together.


Yeah the builder left it a disaster. The fact that it looks as good as it does is a minor miracle. But I can feel all the lumps and bumps as I walk the yard. It doesn't appear that way from a distance but it's quite bumpy.



Aawickham78 said:


> I started out with a really bumpy lawn as well. This is the steps I chose to take before I purchased a greens mower.
> It took 2 seasons.
> I am in North Alabama. Heavy Clay
> Get a roller.
> ...


Looks like an awesome project and great solution for the problem! I'll have to look into doing this but it'll probably still be next year as we have too much happening for the remainder of the year to get into a project like this one. Thanks for the pics too!



Xoque said:


> My advise is don't low cut all the time. I have bumps and uneven spots that I will fix later. Just raise your cut. I have cut off my bermuda to the brown part and watered. It came back in a week or two even greener. Well that is an illusion because I don't see the brown parts as easy. Bermuda is very resilient. Once you get the spots evened out you notice a big difference. I'm going to rent a power rake attachment for a day and take care of mine next year before spring.


Problem is with my greens mower I can only go as high as 3/4" so this is really it. If I use my rotary I can go higher but then I risk scalping and if I try to bring it down then it'll scalp all throughout. Yeah I know it grows back quickly but for those couple of weeks where it's brown I'm hiding myself from public view 



Cjames1603 said:


> That is not a total illusion. Bermuda when cut low can be trained to green at that level. It also will get thicker. If that were not the case there would not be the beautiful freshly cut striped lawns in this forum cut at .25. But leveling is important.


I just wish I could get away with a different pattern of mowing or something to postpone leveling. I'll try something new this weekend but I'll probably end up with some of the same results.


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