# First soil test results are in



## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

Just got the results from first soil test. The front yard is bermuda and was established when we bought the house, but with lots of weeds. I put lime on it because people told me I should, so that's probably why the pH is different. Otherwise, I haven't done much but battle weeds and spread some milorganite.

The back yard was a complete renovation. It was overgrown with lots of groundcover and full of rocks, we took it down to the dirt, then put down a KBG, TTTF, Fine fescue blend. I used starter fertilizer at time of seeding and then again 1 month later, so that's probably why some of those P and K numbers are higher. Haven't put any lime, but there used to be a massive pine tree that was recently removed, so that could be a possible explanation for the pH imbalance, but I'm really not sure.

I don't know what any of the other numbers mean, so any help is appreciated. What do you all think about the recommended lime and fertilizer applications?







The plan this year is to keep battling weeds with pre and post emergent in the front, and try to get the bermuda to really thicken up where the weeds used to be. I'm planning on a combination of milorganite and liquid fertilizer with high P and K numbers.

The back I am planning on a spring overseed focused on bare spots and pushing the grass to thicken up in its first spring with milorganite.

I'm also doing a side yard renovation this spring. I have tenacity that I will spray on the side and back. 2 applications every 30 days, then on the 60th day prodiamine. I may add some lime to help get the pH trending toward optimal, then add more once the spring seeding gets more established to equal the recommended amount per the soil test.

Looking forward to hear your thoughts as well.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Their test results are fairly different. Based on the pH, the back does need some lime. The front looks good on pH but could use P and K.


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

by "Some" he means "A lot" - 85 lbs per 1,000 SQ Ft.


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

SCGrassMan said:


> by "Some" he means "A lot" - 85 lbs per 1,000 SQ Ft.


Hah! I saw that on the test results. Thankfully it's only 3,000 SF. I may split it into 3 applications spread throughout the year.

What about the other numbers under "additional test results"? Those I don't know very much about how they affect the grass and what their optimal ranges should be.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

The lime instructions are in the last page. They recommend no more than 60lb/ksqft at once and the next application in 6 months.

I'm not sure what they mean by index and what the optimal range would be. Since they did not recommend anything around them, I assume they are ok.


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

I had similar stuff - "the guy at the store" said don't worry about MN MG and Ch - the lawn will get enough from regular fertilizer. If you look at my results you can see the range that's recommended for those things in my area with my type of grass. (In my sig)


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

Is it possible to have too much P and K? I'm going to be seeding bare spots that I leveled and some that suffered some die out over the winter due to an over aggressive post emergent application. I really would like to use starter fert with mesotrione, but of course it has high P & K rates. I mean, I'm already at 99 on the P, what's a little more?


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

To paraphrase, you have high P and K, and are wondering if you should add more?


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## ABC123 (Jul 14, 2017)

i would only add it in light applications to the seeded area but this soil test has plenty of nutrients in the soil to promote life. But even then this isn't ideal because you need full pre-m control.

When you fertilize and have a cec like yours at 14.9 it's going to hurt you if you keep over applying. But being less serious if you already own it I'd do it but would suggest not to.

Nutrients need to be balanced. Higher the cec the more it will hold onto nutrients and you cannot flush that out very easy and it can be toxic.


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

SCGrassMan said:


> To paraphrase, you have high P and K, and are wondering if you should add more?


Not exactly. That's more of an over-simplification. I'm trying to get mesotrione on the spring seeded areas. Sounds like maybe I should just choose an alternative pre-m strategy for the spring. I'm not very knowledgeable in the soils and nutrients department, so was just wondering if it would do more harm than good.



ABC123 said:


> When you fertilize and have a cec like yours at 14.9 it's going to hurt you if you keep over applying. But being less serious if you already own it I'd do it but would suggest not to.
> 
> Nutrients need to be balanced. Higher the cec the more it will hold onto nutrients and you cannot flush that out very easy and it can be toxic.


Thanks for the info on CEC, I hadn't known what that means. I watched a few videos and it makes sense to me. I will think about going a different direction with pre-m and apply only nitrogen fert to this area.


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

I wouldn't say OVER simplified. Just simplified. If you already have too much, or almost too much, don't add more ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


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