# Mclane Reel Mower Motor Replacement



## MarkV

The recoil on the starter finally gave out on the 30+ year old Briggs & Stratton motor on my McLane. Once I plugged my motor model number into B&S website I realized it was considerate an antique motor and I decided it would be less trouble to just replace the whole motor.

*EDIT: 1/2" x 19.5" (stock) belt works with adjusting clutch rod.*

There is a YouTube Video walking you through it as well.

Parts needed.
Motor: I went with a Harbor Freight Predator Engine just like in the video. The bolt patter matches up great. Mine is a 20" reel mower so I can't attest to other size mowers bolt patterns.

Pulley: I went with a 2.5" diameter 3/4" bore from Ace Hardware. The pic in the link shows the wrong size but it's the correct part number for the 2.5" diameter pulley. The pulley on the B&S was a 2.5" so I stuck with that. Just be sure you make sure you get the proper bore for what ever size shaft your motor has.

Misc: If you use this particular motor you'll need some kind of spacer equaling about 1/2" shown in pic below. That bar hits the bottom of the air cleaner. You also need a longer bolt here as well. The new pulley was hitting part of the assembly and engaged the clutch so I needed to raise the motor. I raised it just over 1/2" with two nuts and a washer. Putting the bolts through the motor and then threading nuts on was much easier then trying to get the bolts through a stack of 8 washers. I used 2.5" bolts for mounting the motor. Again with this particular motor I needed to trim on of the mounting bolts to about 1.9" (still needed a hammer to tap it in a bit too). It would be the drive side back bolt that needs to be trimmed down.

Worst part of the whole thing was getting the shroud that goes around the reel back on. Put gas and oil in the motor and it fired on the second pull. Going from an old 3HP motor to a new 6.5HP motor is a huge difference. It had been 5 days since I last mowed (replacing the mower took me 2 days) and the grass was wet from watering and it didn't even bat an eye. Just plowed right through it. The new motor is quite a bit heavier too. So that's a plus.

I think that's about it. I could easily do this in a couple of hours now that I know exactly what I need and how to do it. It's like a have a brand new mower now. Well worth the sub $200 investment.


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## Ware

Wow, very cool. :thumbup:


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## SGrabs33

Great overview. I actually have a McLane that needs its Briggs Engine serviced. The carbs on the old Briggs are just miserable to clean because of their complexity. Replacing the engine is almost more reasonable, as you have found. Especially with how easy it is to service these Honda Clone engines.


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## MarkV

Thank you, thank you.

I know I'm almost $300 into a 30+ year old McLane mower now but I'm happy with it.


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## J_nick

MarkV said:


> Thank you, thank you.
> 
> I know I'm almost $300 into a 30+ year old McLane mower now but I'm happy with it.


As I tell my wife quite often. "There's worse things I could be spending money on"


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## Redtenchu

J_nick said:


> MarkV said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you, thank you.
> 
> I know I'm almost $300 into a 30+ year old McLane mower now but I'm happy with it.
> 
> 
> 
> As I tell my wife quite often. "There's worse things I could be spending money on"
Click to expand...

Like a Horse...


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## RockyMtnLawnNut

I figured this question fit into this thread. Anybody know if this pulley would work for me?

https://www.grainger.com/product/TB-WOOD-S-V-Belt-Pulley-5RHZ4

I picked up a used Mclane 20" mower for a steal. The Briggs engine still runs, but the guy threw in a newer Honda GC160 that he wanted to get rid of. I was thinking I may swap them at some point. The engine has a 7/8" Shaft. Thanks in advance!


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## MarkV

RockyMtnLawnNut said:


> I figured this question fit into this thread. Anybody know if this pulley would work for me?
> 
> https://www.grainger.com/product/TB-WOOD-S-V-Belt-Pulley-5RHZ4
> 
> I picked up a used Mclane 20" mower for a steal. The Briggs engine still runs, but the guy threw in a newer Honda GC160 that he wanted to get rid of. I was thinking I may swap them at some point. The engine has a 7/8" Shaft. Thanks in advance!


Sorry never saw this post. I would think that pulley would work.


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## RockyMtnLawnNut

MarkV said:


> RockyMtnLawnNut said:
> 
> 
> 
> I figured this question fit into this thread. Anybody know if this pulley would work for me?
> 
> https://www.grainger.com/product/TB-WOOD-S-V-Belt-Pulley-5RHZ4
> 
> I picked up a used Mclane 20" mower for a steal. The Briggs engine still runs, but the guy threw in a newer Honda GC160 that he wanted to get rid of. I was thinking I may swap them at some point. The engine has a 7/8" Shaft. Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry never saw this post. I would think that pulley would work.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Maybe this can be a winter project.


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## Flynt2799

Great post. Just purchased the same motor to slap on.


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## Flynt2799

Finished!


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## SGrabs33

@Flynt2799 Looking good, how's she running? I know many people here have had belt issues before. We're you able to find the one that works well with the Predator?


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## Flynt2799

SGrabs33 said:


> Looking good, how's she running? I know many people here have had belt issues before. We're you able to find the one that works well with the Predator?


Runs great! I was able to use the stock belt after ordering the correct pulley. Backlapped the reel last night and did my first cut today.


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## MasterMech

Excellent re-power of the McClane!


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## tuckerp4123

Picking up the 6.5 Predator engine for my Mclane tomorrow. Thanks for the info shared, I went ahead and bought the 2.5" x 3/4 pulley from Ace. Hope the swap goes smoothly, but I may need a couple questions answered over the weekend.


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## Flynt2799

@tuckerp4123 feel free to ask. I just completed this project, wasn't that bad at all.


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## tuckerp4123

Thanks. Started to mess with it a few minutes ago and already ran into a problem. Trying to take the B&S off, but of course one of the bolts is stripped. I'll get it off one way or another. Can you give me a list of the bolts, washers or nuts you used?


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## Flynt2799

@tuckerp4123 I used the stock engine bolts, to create the spacing needed I deduced to use a mix of flat washers and one .25" plastic washer, I just felt like this would be more snug and have less risk of having a but pop through the metal base. Used another longer plastic washer to create the spacing needed for the arm to clear the air filter. Ordered a new belt(stock size) and the same pulley you already ordered.

I will try and track down the parts numbers I used for the washers. I purchased them all at HD though if that helps.


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## tuckerp4123

Thanks again. I have the engine in place and adjusted the arm so it fits. Just can't do much more until the pulley gets here and I see how many spacers will be needed. Is it pretty much self explanatory putting the pulley on the shaft? And did you just take the throttle cable off? Can't wait to get this thing going. Been a stress all spring


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## Flynt2799

tuckerp4123 said:


> Thanks again. I have the engine in place and adjusted the arm so it fits. Just can't do much more until the pulley gets here and I see how many spacers will be needed. Is it pretty much self explanatory putting the pulley on the shaft? And did you just take the throttle cable off? Can't wait to get this thing going. Been a stress all spring


Ya just place the pulley on and get it aligned, that will tell you how much space you need based on tension placed on the belt. I had to big of a gap and had to remove two spacers because it would engage the pulley on its own. I did just remove the throttle cable, I just use the one on the engine and find a good pace that works.

Can't find the exact part number for washers and spacer but attached a pic below. Just find the ones that fit the bolts and you should be good. Three flat washers and the .25" plastic one did the trick for me


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## Guest

those are wonderful engines almost bullet proof..had one on a old old p20 trucut worked pretty well..I did rewire the oil cutoff switch though so it wouldn't cut out on me while maneuvering.


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## tuckerp4123

Don't know why, but I had to go up a notch on the side arm to get the bolt back in straight with the spacer. Too much of an angle if I used the lower one. Will that affect anything negatively? Should be my last question


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## Flynt2799

tuckerp4123 said:


> Don't know why, but I had to go up a notch on the side arm to get the bolt back in straight with the spacer. Too much of an angle if I used the lower one. Will that affect anything negatively? Should be my last question


On mine I drilled out the hole a bit to give the bolt a little play and allow it to insert. Once tightened I don't even notice it and it's snug as can be.


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## tuckerp4123

It's not going to hurt anything with the way I've got it?


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## Flynt2799

It shouldn't, that brace just gives a little support to the control arm coming up. I have put mine through the works and had no issues.


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## tuckerp4123

Thanks for all the help. Believe it should be easy from here. I'll post when it's finished unless I need to bug you again


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## Flynt2799

Feel free. Can't wait to see the finished product.


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## tuckerp4123

Ran across one of your posts @Flynt2799 and see you're doing the exact same as me this year. First time to scalp and decided to get a reel mower. Yesterday was my first time using it and of course the engine went out with 3 passes left, which is why I found this thread. Amazing the difference these mowers make. You may have Tifway 419, I thought our sod was common until contacting the farm who supplies our builder. They said 99% of sodded bermuda these days is Tif 419. I also have the exact same low spot by the street like you do. Just filling it in with sand a little at a time.


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## tuckerp4123

New to these forums if y'all can't tell by my posts. I don't know what's going on with that last one


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## Flynt2799

tuckerp4123 said:


> New to these forums if y'all can't tell by my posts. I don't know what's going on with that last one


Don't worry about it lol. Ya I just got tired of the y'all stringy look of Bermuda, but that's all I ever knew. Found this thread late last season and made a game plan coming into this year. My low spots by the curb were so badly compacted that I just went full blown level at once, hoping that the Bermuda will eventually creep over and fill in. It's been a crazy process but I'm happy so far. Just wish the lawn would fill in and recover quicker, but I have also really beat it up this season. Scalped, dethatched, scalped again, aerated and than leveled with masonry sand. The reel has changed the game though!


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## tuckerp4123

Spacers are making it to where I can't pull the clutch arm, so I went with 2 washers so I can pull it like normal. Still engaged when I crank it and it keeps throwing the spring off the clutch arm. Any ideas? Thing is a headache


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## Flynt2799

tuckerp4123 said:


> Spacers are making it to where I can't pull the clutch arm, so I went with 2 washers so I can pull it like normal. Still engaged when I crank it and it keeps throwing the spring off the clutch arm. Any ideas? Thing is a headache


Can you take a few pics?


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## tuckerp4123

After almost throwing it to the curb, I realized the clutch arm had been messed with before and needed to be shortened. Put the 1/2 spacers back in and adjusted the arm, now it's finally working. Really an easy process other than that. Thanks again, I'll get some pics up soon


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## Flynt2799

tuckerp4123 said:


> After almost throwing it to the curb, I realized the clutch arm had been messed with before and needed to be shortened. Put the 1/2 spacers back in and adjusted the arm, now it's finally working. Really an easy process other than that. Thanks again, I'll get some pics up soon


 :thumbup:


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## dirttrafficker751

This is my first post on this forum. I have lurked here the past year or so as I bought my first reel mower late last summer. Like many, I bought a used McLane for minimal investment to see if I even wanted to continue down this path of reel low mowing. First of all - My wife hates you all. The obsession that has taken a hold of me thanks to this site is real, lol. 
Second - This thread intrigued the hell out of me so I picked up the Predator 212CC and did this swap.

Okay, actually, the chain for the self propel wheel was worn out and kept jumping off of the sprocket so I used it as an excuse to do the motor swap. =) "Babe, I'm gonna have to take the whole thing apart anyway, it would be silly not to replace the engine with how much work is involved." <-- That last little bit is a straight up LIE. This motor swap was easy easy easy. Other than having trouble getting the support arm back on, I was done in under an hour thanks to all of your experiences shared here.

Even at 3/4 throttle this thing seems to handle the incline on my yard better. Can't wait until the break in period passes and I can go full throttle.

So here's a few pictures of the project. Thank you all so much, I can't believe I've put this much time and energy into an old McLane but it's working really well for my application and this just made it much more fun!

Pardon the filthy state of my garage, that's next on the project list, lol. =)


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## Flynt2799

@dirttrafficker751 looks great!


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## g-man

This looks great.


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## gene_stl

:thumbup:


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## Moonshot

I recently did this motor replacement and decided to try the 3 hp Predator motor to keep the weight down. I assumed it would be a direct bolt-on with no need for the washers used as spacers to raise the motor for clearance issues. This assumption was wrong but for a different reason than the 6.5 hp Predator. I needed to raise the motor height some due to the drive pulley not engaging enough. By adding some height via 4 spacers this issue was corrected. Also, the drive pulley can be reused from the old motor.

This motor is more than enough power for the mower and it rips compared to the old Briggs motor.


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## gene_stl

Nice looking job.


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## dirttrafficker751

Awesome! I wondered about doing the 3hp motor instead to avoid having to monkey with relocating the support arm a bit. Looks good!


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## GadgetVictim

Hi, I'm a newbie on this topic. I'm planning to replace my BS engine in my Mclane with a Honda GX120 that I have. Expect to encounter same issues as Predator engine replacement...Pulley bore size, mounting height issues, etc.

Problem I'm currently stuck on, I getting right tools to remove pullies from both existing BS and Honda engine shafts. Can anyone make recommendations on which specific pulley puller and replacement kit would work best for removing pulley from both shafts, and installing new 3/4" x 2.5 pulley in new Honda GX120 drive shaft?

Don't know if this is an issue, but I'm not sure if which or any of the threaded bolts come with available pulley installer kits would fit existing threads in drive shaft center hole for both Honda GX120 or the BS shaft. (Does this concern make any sense?) Could not find info on this.

Appreciate greatly if you can point me to any "how to" videos or articles that might help me,


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## Ware

GadgetVictim said:


> Hi, I'm a newbie on this topic...


I'm no help, but wanted to stop and say welcome to TLF! :thumbup:


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## GadgetVictim

Found out that Honda GX120 shaft center and tapped diameter is 5/16-24. 
Is this a standard that's supported by all or only some of puller replacement kits?


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## Greendoc

Yes. I also can alert you that the pulley on the OEM McLane engine may be 5/8" rather than 3/4". I match the OD of the old pulley with a new one bored to 3/4". https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004988N1W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## GadgetVictim

Thanks, understand difference in diameters 5/8" for BS, and 3/4" for Honda.

My question relates to pulley tool kit that will thread into holes bored & tapped in center of respective centers of shaft diameters.

Honda has bore tapped at 5/16-24 on 3/4" shaft.
Briggs & Stratton bore tapped at 3/8-24 on 5/8" diameter shaft.

I had to check twice, because smaller diameter BS shaft had a 1/16" bigger bore.

I'm looking at Lisle 39000 pulley puller/install kit. Priced at more then I want to spend for this possible one-shot use. But, if it gets the job, Then worth the extra bucks.

Mahalo, Gadget


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## g-man

Some auto parts let you loan tools for free. I'm not sure what options you have in Hawaii, but it is worth checking for a one time use.


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## Greendoc

I fill the tapped hole with a standard cap screw and use a common 2 arm gear puller on it.


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## GadgetVictim

When placing the new 2.5"×3/4" keyed pulley onto you 3/4' predator shaft, did you use any special insert tool? Did it slide on easily on the shaft? Did you havr to use any persuasion?


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## HARDatLURK

GadgetVictim said:


> When placing the new 2.5"×3/4" keyed pulley onto you 3/4' predator shaft, did you use any special insert tool? Did it slide on easily on the shaft? Did you havr to use any persuasion?


same issue here...

edit- the key slot on pulley was made sloppy and was much tighter than necessary(couldn't fit over the shaft). filed the inside egdes a little and it slide on nice and easy. :thumbup:

the old mclane is now a 6,5 hp beast


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## Cigar_Fiend

This thread was a life saver! After my original B&S went to the big yard in the sky, I looked for replacement engines. (Not sure why I didn't come here first.). After seeing that the Predator 6.5 would match up perfectly on my 25" 7-blade I was very tempted. Then I saw a 4th of July sale at Harbor Freight and picked up the motor at $99.

I'm not kidding when I say that all the tips and tricks on this thread allowed me and my neighbor to do a full engine swap and get everything up and running in 20-30 minutes! This new engine is a BEAST... even only at half throttle for the break in period, this thing just cruises over the thick spots with no stress. So impressed with this new engine!

Thank you to all the previous posters for giving tips and challenges. You all were very helpful!


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## jdpber

Cigar_Fiend said:


> This thread was a life saver! After my original B&S went to the big yard in the sky, I looked for replacement engines. (Not sure why I didn't come here first.). After seeing that the Predator 6.5 would match up perfectly on my 25" 7-blade I was very tempted. Then I saw a 4th of July sale at Harbor Freight and picked up the motor at $99.
> 
> I'm not kidding when I say that all the tips and tricks on this thread allowed me and my neighbor to do a full engine swap and get everything up and running in 20-30 minutes! This new engine is a BEAST... even only at half throttle for the break in period, this thing just cruises over the thick spots with no stress. So impressed with this new engine!
> 
> Thank you to all the previous posters for giving tips and challenges. You all were very helpful!


So glad that it worked for you. I did my motor upgrade at the Memorial Day sale.


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## ctrav

Cigar_Fiend said:


> This thread was a life saver! After my original B&S went to the big yard in the sky, I looked for replacement engines. (Not sure why I didn't come here first.). After seeing that the Predator 6.5 would match up perfectly on my 25" 7-blade I was very tempted. Then I saw a 4th of July sale at Harbor Freight and picked up the motor at $99.
> 
> I'm not kidding when I say that all the tips and tricks on this thread allowed me and my neighbor to do a full engine swap and get everything up and running in 20-30 minutes! This new engine is a BEAST... even only at half throttle for the break in period, this thing just cruises over the thick spots with no stress. So impressed with this new engine!
> 
> Thank you to all the previous posters for giving tips and challenges. You all were very helpful!


Thats an awesome success story... congrats!!


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## MarkV

Cigar_Fiend said:


> This thread was a life saver! After my original B&S went to the big yard in the sky, I looked for replacement engines. (Not sure why I didn't come here first.). After seeing that the Predator 6.5 would match up perfectly on my 25" 7-blade I was very tempted. Then I saw a 4th of July sale at Harbor Freight and picked up the motor at $99.
> 
> I'm not kidding when I say that all the tips and tricks on this thread allowed me and my neighbor to do a full engine swap and get everything up and running in 20-30 minutes! This new engine is a BEAST... even only at half throttle for the break in period, this thing just cruises over the thick spots with no stress. So impressed with this new engine!
> 
> Thank you to all the previous posters for giving tips and challenges. You all were very helpful!


I had no idea this thread would be so helpful. I think I'll add a feather to my cap.

Love the success stories of a lowly McLane mower.


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## brian197

MarkV did replacing the engine increase the speed of your mower? My issue with my Mclane 20" is that I have a large yard and the old 3HP B&S engine is brutaly slow. If the speed of the mower will increase I'm may consider the swap.

Thanks,
Brian


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## jdpber

brian197 said:


> MarkV did replacing the engine increase the speed of your mower? My issue with my Mclane 20" is that I have a large yard and the old 3HP B&S engine is brutaly slow. If the speed of the mower will increase I'm may consider the swap.
> 
> Thanks,
> Brian


I run my 6.5hp at roughly 1/3 throttle and it is a good pace, 1/2 -3/4 you have to easy into the clutch so that the drive tire does not spin too fast and tear the grass when super low. But it is for sure a much stronger mower now compared to the tired old 3.5hp. I would say that the walking pace is defiantly faster than the 3.5, but it is not like run behind it speeds. I would say it is comparable to or faster than a normal self propelled rotary mower on concrete.


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## LawnDaddy

Just wanted to share with everyone what I've been working on. Old John Deere 20 SR7 that I picked up for $40 off of Facebook. Engine ran fine but parts were $$$ so I decided to slap on a predator 212. Also got a good deal on the grooved roller from reel rollers during the presale period. Took the entire machine apart and replaced bolts and fasteners. All chains and bearings were in good shape. Still gotta install the throttle cable and the spacer for the support bracket to go around the air cleaner but other than that it's done. Already talked to reel works in Braselton about getting a fresh grind on the reel and bedknife.


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## Ware

Nice work!


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## Gilley11

That looks awesome! Did you paint or powder coat it? If paint, what kind of paint did you use?


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## LawnDaddy

I sprayed it with John Deere green and yellow that I got on amazon


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## MarkV

@LawnDaddy that looks amazing.

What did you give for the grooved roller? I can't pay more for the roller than I did the motor.


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## LawnDaddy

MarkV said:


> @LawnDaddy that looks amazing.
> 
> What did you give for the grooved roller? I can't pay more for the roller than I did the motor.


I think it was $179. Purchased from Reel Rollers


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## MasterMech

Deleted


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## MasterMech

LawnDaddy said:


> MarkV said:
> 
> 
> 
> @LawnDaddy that looks amazing.
> 
> What did you give for the grooved roller? I can't pay more for the roller than I did the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> I think it was $179. Purchased from Reel Rollers
Click to expand...

And that engine is currently on sale at HFT for $99. :lol:


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## LawnDaddy

MasterMech said:


> LawnDaddy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MarkV said:
> 
> 
> 
> @LawnDaddy that looks amazing.
> 
> What did you give for the grooved roller? I can't pay more for the roller than I did the motor.
> 
> 
> 
> I think it was $179. Purchased from Reel Rollers
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> And that engine is currently on sale at HFT for $99. :lol:
Click to expand...

Yep :thumbup: however i paid $0 (xmas present) :lol:


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## Art James

After much frustration with my Briggs and Stratton In my Mclane, I'm considering this engine swap. My motor runs really rough and I have Cleaned out the carb really well. I am curious, is this predator engine quieter than the Briggs and stratton? I don't know about others but the motor on mine is so loud. I figured for $100 I can not have the frustrations of trying to turn over the Briggs.


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## pschattle15

I picked up this McLane 20" 7 blade from a coworker who had it sitting out behind his shop. He said it had been sitting for probably 10 years outside exposed and just gave it to me. I want to do an engine swap as the Briggs has been sitting exposed and it appears to be from 1993 based off the engine code. I am also planning to pull it apart, clean, and repaint the mower as a restore project. I have a few questions below.

-Reel and knife will need to be resharpened for sure. Need to call around in the area to some shops to price this (Dallas, TX). Reel appears to have a relief grind on it already, can I get a spin grind on it to clean up the edge or will this need another relief?
-For prepping the mower deck, handle bars, etc for a fresh coat of paint, what was the process for removing rust? I'm planning on wire brush/wire wheel on grinder for the tough stuff, sand down and clean the parts, then just prime and spray paint with safety yellow and safety red. Any other suggestions?
-Is there a disassembly guide anywhere online? I follow the "McLane Reel Question" thread in the equipment subtopic, but just wanted to check.
-Planning on soaking the chains in vinegar then scrubbing to clean off rust. Then will spray with WD-40. Any other lubricants recommended for the chains?
-Will I need a gear puller to remove the sprockets off the reel tube and the drive tube?

Any other pointers or tips for disassembly/re-assembly will be greatly appreciated. We will see how this project goes. Like I said, I picked up the mower for free, so if I can get a new motor on this, reel sharpened, fresh paint job, and only be in around $300, I feel like that is a win in my book. Thanks.


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## Groundskeeper Willie

You'll definitely a need gear puller and rubber mallet (or block of wood and hammer) for the sprockets as they are a press on fit along with having set screws. I've never seen any full service manual or disassembly guide for a McLane. There are the instructions in the owner's manual for changing the rear axle height, and for setting the tension of the clutch system. I have seen a youtube video on how to dismantle the roller drive to replace wheels. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=opob8zEdoak
There are probably some more McLane repair videos with disassembly info here and there to be gathered from them. But there's no all in one place video library on taking the mower apart.

Any chain lube product -probably white lithium grease based- ought to be ok.

I have no info about repainting the chassis or swapping out engines. There's this video, which we've probably all seen and which has a little information, but it's hardly a step by step tutorial .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2E4GPBQ6nW0

I would say take lots of pictures as you carefully disassemble the mower's various systems, so you have a guide to reassembly. Get wide shots then lots of closeups. The tiny exploded diagram of parts in the manual is not a lot to go on.


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## pschattle15

Thanks @Groundskeeper Willie. I have gotten most of the mower torn apart and disassembled in my garage. I took a bunch of photos beforehand like you said. Should be fun/interesting to start cleaning the rust and repainting/replacing pieces.


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## pschattle15

@LawnDaddy when you repainted your john deere mower, did you just sand all of the pieces, and spray paint it? Or did you use a paint stripper gel on the pieces to get most of it off? What about the reel? Sorry for all the questions, I am fixing to begin the process to prep my mower for a repaint and was curious. Thanks.


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## LawnDaddy

pschattle15 said:


> @LawnDaddy when you repainted your john deere mower, did you just sand all of the pieces, and spray paint it? Or did you use a paint stripper gel on the pieces to get most of it off? What about the reel? Sorry for all the questions, I am fixing to begin the process to prep my mower for a repaint and was curious. Thanks.


I only sanded the areas that were chipped with old paint. Not a whole lot of rust on the mower as the previous owner was the original purchaser and he took really good care of it. Once I had the mower broken down i replaced all of the bolts and fasteners with the exception of the tapered bolts. I couldn't justify paying $30 plus shipping for 6 bolts. I lightly sanded the corners on the reel. I did not pull off or replace any bearings as the were all in good shape. I abandoned everything I was taught about painting with spray paint lol I started with very light coats but realized the heavier I applied the paint the better it looked, without causing any runs of course. The parts diagram on the mclane website was my go to for seeing how everything was put together and bolt sizes etc.

https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfImages/83/8377fa7c-28f7-429d-99de-be702c84acc1.pdf

Find you a empty spot in the garage or whatever you have available to you and start taking it apart! keep bolts of the same size together and label your chains. I did mine over the winter months and it was a fun project to mess around with a little each day. If you have any questions just shoot me a PM and ill be glad to assist.


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## pschattle15

Thanks @LawnDaddy. I have it all pulled apart and separated in bins from each area. Where did you buy your new fasteners from? I dont suppose you have a count on each type that is needed still do you? Im curently soaking my bolts and chains in vinegar and will try to clean and save whatever i can, but some of them were pretty rusted.


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## LawnDaddy

pschattle15 said:


> Thanks @LawnDaddy. I have it all pulled apart and separated in bins from each area. Where did you buy your new fasteners from? I dont suppose you have a count on each type that is needed still do you? Im curently soaking my bolts and chains in vinegar and will try to clean and save whatever i can, but some of them were pretty rusted.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G2QFSQ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GUEPPFE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074G4CJTL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DB3HZPN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## pschattle15

Awesome @LawnDaddy. Thank you!


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## ChrisfromOrlando

I'm new on here, and i'm fixing up an old Mclane too. What roller is that?


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## pschattle15

I believe @Reelrollers has the direct bolt on roller for McLane as well as the other homeowner reels. May check out their website. I will be purchasing one once I finish my restoration on my McLane most likely.


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## MarkV

Harbor Freight has the 6.5 HP (212cc) motor for $99 until 7/5/20.


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## w0lfe

MarkV said:


> Harbor Freight has the 6.5 HP (212cc) motor for $99 until 7/5/20.


Appreciate it. I assume everyone still likes this engine? My briggs took a dump today halfway through an acre and everyone around okc has bought these out. I'm hoping I snag one soon and I'll be doing this ASAP.. Hoping it's fairly easy


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## pschattle15

I'm also wanting to gauge everyone who has swapped for the larger 6.5hp motor review after upgrading. No issues with larger motor? Do any of you wish you would've stuck with the 3hp predator?


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## w0lfe

I'm putting mine on now. The only issue is the belt. There's no chance I'm getting the belt on the new engine and pulley. Not sure if the belt that was on there is an oem or something else. Other than that, I added some spacers for the engine mounts and everything else has been good so far


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## JRS 9572

pschattle15 said:


> I'm also wanting to gauge everyone who has swapped for the larger 6.5hp motor review after upgrading. No issues with larger motor? Do any of you wish you would've stuck with the 3hp predator?


It's a lot louder than the current Briggs McLane uses. But I've got headphones on so it doesn't bother me. Also make sure you find a way to put an exhaust pipe on the muffler (the fix was shown a few posts back by @LawnDaddy )
edit: sorry I get my threads confused sometimes. I believe the fix for the exhaust pipe is in the long running McLane mower thread.

Otherwise it's worse than having a hair dryer blowing on your left thigh for however long you mow.


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## w0lfe

These pics are from last night. It's all done and just mowed 40k sq ft at a quarter inch. This engine is a beast and I didn't even have it but maybe 1/3 throttle. Anyone on the fence of doing this engine swap should take the leap. I'm sure glad I did, and it was very easy to do. That damn blade guard or whatever you call it was the hardest part, just getting those nuts and bolts started. Thanks again to the topic author !


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## Spammage

I appreciate all the info in this thread. My dethatcher started crapping out on me a couple of days ago, so I picked up the 212cc Predator. I have it installed and it seems to be great. I will give it a workout in a few days.


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## Art James

Follow up question for those that I have done this swap. Did you reuse the same belt or did this require a different size belt? I'm starting to get everything together in preparation for the swap.


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## bhutchinson87

Art James said:


> Follow up question for those that I have done this swap. Did you reuse the same belt or did this require a different size belt? I'm starting to get everything together in preparation for the swap.


If you order the correct sized pulley you can use the stock belt. MarkV's original post contains which pulley to buy.


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## Art James

Ok, thanks! I'm ordering the size he mentioned but not from Ace. To long for them to ship it out.


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## a_chan

@Art James I just finished adding the pulley on mine today. 2.5" looks like it fits fine with the OEM belt. It also looks like it's possible to mount the engine just a tad lower without any issues (which would then let give you more leeway with the belt I assuming).


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## Art James

@a_chan good info, appreciate it. I was really debating throwing the 79cc predator on there for simplicity sake. I recently noticed that my mower is starting to float on the thicker areas and I'm hoping the extra weight from the 212cc will help that. Although I'm not looking forward to the extra weight for anything else. I have quite a few obstacles in my yard so the extra weight might be more of a hinderance than anything.


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## McDiddles

Art James said:


> @a_chan good info, appreciate it. I was really debating throwing the 79cc predator on there for simplicity sake. I recently noticed that my mower is starting to float on the thicker areas and I'm hoping the extra weight from the 212cc will help that. Although I'm not looking forward to the extra weight for anything else. I have quite a few obstacles in my yard so the extra weight might be more of a hinderance than anything.


I went with the 79cc swap. Do you have a roller? The roller helps keep mine down, and my zoysia is thick as can be right now. I really don't think it needed the extra power, and am happy I don't have to pull that briggs 8 million times before it fires, or prime the carb. Only issue I had was the spacers for the engine height, and adjusting the linkage for engaging/disengaging the belt. Took me some finagling to make that operate just right.


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## Art James

McDiddles said:


> Art James said:
> 
> 
> 
> @a_chan good info, appreciate it. I was really debating throwing the 79cc predator on there for simplicity sake. I recently noticed that my mower is starting to float on the thicker areas and I'm hoping the extra weight from the 212cc will help that. Although I'm not looking forward to the extra weight for anything else. I have quite a few obstacles in my yard so the extra weight might be more of a hinderance than anything.
> 
> 
> 
> I went with the 79cc swap. Do you have a roller? The roller helps keep mine down, and my zoysia is thick as can be right now. I really don't think it needed the extra power, and am happy I don't have to pull that briggs 8 million times before it fires, or prime the carb. Only issue I had was the spacers for the engine height, and adjusting the linkage for engaging/disengaging the belt. Took me some finagling to make that operate just right.
Click to expand...

I have a roller and it does help some. I'm curious as to whether anyone that went with the larger engine regrets doing so because of the added weight. I know the 79cc would be more than enough for me Since I can't run my Briggs at full open choke because it surges way too much even with a brand new carb.


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## pschattle15

So i was preparing to buy the predator engine for the swap. No harbor freights in DFW have any in stock. So I am planning on ordering a Briggs from Northern Tool. Planning on going with a Briggs CR950 on my McLane. Any reason not to do this? Same mounting pattern and shaft diameter as the B&S 550.


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## WarDamnLawn

I did the swap on a 25" Mclane this weekend in under 2 hours. Called around my local Ace Hardwares asking if they had the pulley the OP suggested in stock and the second nearest one did. I bought 2" finethread bolts, 1/2" spacers, and a few washers and I went at it. The only snag is getting one of the 2" bolts into the block. Its solely based on the predator block design and I think the OP trimmed a bolt down to 1.9" maybe. I forced it by using the bound threads, not the best but it worked. Plenty of clearance on everything handlebar related on the 25." Awesome upgrade, worth every penny, No fighting to get started, the higher displacement predator lets me run it at lower rpm which makes for a more pleasant walk speed. My briggs had to be running wide open which meant I really had to work to keep up with it. If you're debating, just do it.


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## Steely

Cross posting here and the Mclane thread...

Found this one on FBMP...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... 631211240/

I asked the seller if it runs ands cuts and she said her dad couldn't get it running because the carb leaks.

Is this worth offering $50 with the intent of doing the Predator engine swap? Assuming the reel and bedknife are in good condition.


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## garettpage

Good looking mower!



WarDamnLawn said:


> I did the swap on a 25" Mclane this weekend in under 2 hours. Called around my local Ace Hardwares asking if they had the pulley the OP suggested in stock and the second nearest one did. I bought 2" finethread bolts, 1/2" spacers, and a few washers and I went at it. The only snag is getting one of the 2" bolts into the block. Its solely based on the predator block design and I think the OP trimmed a bolt down to 1.9" maybe. I forced it by using the bound threads, not the best but it worked. Plenty of clearance on everything handlebar related on the 25." Awesome upgrade, worth every penny, No fighting to get started, the higher displacement predator lets me run it at lower rpm which makes for a more pleasant walk speed. My briggs had to be running wide open which meant I really had to work to keep up with it. If you're debating, just do it.


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## blakewills67

Since the Predator is supposedly a copy of the Honda GX200UT2QX2, does that mean that the Honda should be as easy of a swap as the Predator version? I plan on keeping the mower for a long, long time and I have had very good luck with Honda equipment, and I am willing to pay a bit more. I might be throwing the $200 difference in price away needlessly, but Honda has earned my trust on 2 pressure washers and 4 cars.


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## White94RX

I'm considering swapping a predator engine onto my McLane edger. Unless someone can help me get the B&S engine running. I'm going to make a separate thread about it. Do the 3 hp and/or the 6.5 hp mount right up? The McLane edgers look to be a really simple device.


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## Percheron

Continuing this thread, I'm getting ready to do the swap after the mower comes back from sharpening. The drive chains are pretty stretched out. Did any of you replace the chains as well? Did you order them from Mclane?


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## LoCutt

My 25 inch cut McLane came equipped with a tired 5HP B&S engine. A few years later, I replaced it with a Honda GX. I've had no issues except that the front-rear balance point changes with these "slant cylinder" engines. This is not a problem if the lawn is completely flat. The mower doesn't have the same drive wheel traction that the old configuration had, especially going uphill..

Just be aware. I can't remember if the GC Honda has the vertical or slant cylinder.


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## rainman353

So my late 80s early 90s briggs 3 HP engine either needs adjustment or someone better with small engines to get my mower running smoothly again. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and just do the predator swap.

I've read that a 2 inch bolt is the right length to mount the engine with 1/2 inch spacers but why is the correct bolt size. Looks like 5/16 or 3/8 bolts are readily available at Home Depot but I didn't know if those would be too small.

Thanks for the help.


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## MarkV

Percheron said:


> Continuing this thread, I'm getting ready to do the swap after the mower comes back from sharpening. The drive chains are pretty stretched out. Did any of you replace the chains as well? Did you order them from Mclane?


I've replaced all the chains with THIS. I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut it to length. Way cheaper then buying ones cut to length.


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## Percheron

[/quote]

I've replaced all the chains with THIS. I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to cut it to length. Way cheaper then buying ones cut to length.


[/quote]

Yeah, I just picked up a roll yesterday from a local bearing/industrial machine shop. I'll probably never go through it all though!


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## arm0211

Any ideas on how the predator engine accepts the stock throttle cable?


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## jdpber

arm0211 said:


> Any ideas on how the predator engine accepts the stock throttle cable?


Don't even try, just bend down and adjust the throttle on the mower itself. Let's be reel, how often while in motion are you adjusting the throttle? Hardly ever, I set mine and forget it, mine has been set at like 60% for over a year. Feather the hand clutch and boom you are golden.


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## Gjohnson7771

Hello guys. I just picked up a Mclane reel mower locally and my unit came with the predator 212 engine installed. However, I am looking at the installation and it looks like the previous owner installed the motor without any spacers at all. Not sure how this was done, however I'm wondering if anyone has looked into using Rubber isolation spacers for install to reduce motor vibration?

Below are pics of my new unit. I am planning on disassembling at the end of the cutting season and repainting the whole unit. Hopefully, I will be able to backlap in the next few days.


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## drjones

Bought a used, and abused, McLane for $150. Its pretty rough. I already planned to do a Predator 212 swap and figured I might as well do a "restoration". If I had it my way I would do a real restore, by bead blasting parts etc, but I don't have all that equipment, so I'm doing it by hand with the tools I have. I'm replacing all the bearings, sanding, priming, and painting. Here is what I started with and here is the progress. Just ordered some custom automotive paint. Its been a labor of love so far and not for the faint of heart. LOL


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## TigerKnight

Thanks, all, for the contributions to this thread. I recently purchased a used 20 inch 7-blade with the intention of swapping the motor. Took about 1-2 hours and was much easier than I anticipated.

I was able to use the stock size belt and 2.5 inch diameter 3/4 in bore pulley with the 212cc Predator motor. I added two 3/16 nuts between the body and motor to raise the motor. Using one nut did not raise the motor up enough for the drive belt to fully engage/disengage.

The only thing left is to get the plastic spacer and install the side bar mount (HD was sold out).

Starts on first pull and runs great!


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## drjones

Some progress pics of my McLane Mower restoration


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## drjones

Here is the progress on my Mclane restoration project. I hope to have it completed within the next week or two and be mowing with her.


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## Bmossin

@drjones that looks fantastic!


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## Steely

Great job @drjones . Looks awesome!


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## jdpber

Sick


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## NoslracNevok

That is looking cherry. wow!


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## msantaspirt

So my engine died yesterday. My fault. Apparently it had been burning oil rather quickly until it was completely empty. Engine seized. I was able to get it back and working using PB Blaster, but after running for a few minutes I heard a noise and it shut off. Now the flywheel just spins and the engine never cranks. Instead of trying to fix it (it's a Kawasaki FA130D) I think I'm just going to get a new engine on it. I got the mower for free, got it fixed for free and only spent money on the roller and some replacement chains, sprockets, etc. So it's provided great value. My questions is - is there any substantial reason to get the 6.5hp engine over the 3hp engine? My harbor freight doesn't have the 6.5 in stock but it has the 3. It's only a $10 difference between the two, but the mower ran just fine with the old engine so I'm not really looking to upgrade it, just make it work again. I think with the 3hp I can keep most of the existing parts and just need some spacers when installing it, right? No need for a larger size pulley or new belt? Also - has anyone made a video of themselves swapping the engines out?


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## LoCutt

I put a Honda GX160 on my 25 inch McLane several years ago, replacing a troublesome Briggs. My only complaint is the "slant cylinder" design of the Honda changes the center of gravity on the mower. The B&S engine has the standard vertical cylinder.


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## msantaspirt

I went ahead and bought the 3hp 79cc predator engine and swapped it out. Used some washers and spacers to lift it up high enough and was able to mount it on the mower. I bought a 3/4 inch bore, 2 1/2 inch diameter pulley and used the stock belt that I had on my previous engine (Kawasaki FA130D). I'll be honest I don't really know how to properly install the pulley. I set it on and it felt looser than it should. I wasn't sure what to do with the pulley key. It didn't seem to fit in slot witht the pulley on there. Anyway, I screwed everything in and got the belt on. Belt was a really tight fit which may have something to do with why it didn't work properly. Anyway, I started the motor up and it ran fine but when I pulled the clutch the blades never spun. I don't know if it's because I installed the pulley incorrectly or because the belt is too tight. And I'm not sure how to fix either. Anyone with the 3hp engine run into these problems? Just to be safe, I ordered a new belt and a 1/2 inch bore pulley to see if that helps.


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## drjones

Final pics Mclane restoration. Just need to finish the grass catcher and get the reel ground.


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## Steely

That thing is sweet! Nice work.


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## ShadowGuy

That mower is almost too nice to mow with. It is really putting my "restorations" to shame. Good work, looks excellent!


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## MSLiechty

UGGGH Harbor fright doesn't offer this engine in a CA compliant model. Looks like a road trip is in order.

ML


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## ShadowGuy

MSLiechty said:


> UGGGH Harbor fright doesn't offer this engine in a CA compliant model. Looks like a road trip is in order.
> 
> ML


They have a CARB approved version, but its out of stock in most of Socal.

https://www.harborfreight.com/65-hp-212cc-ohv-horizontal-shaft-gas-engine-epacarb-69727.html


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## w0lfe

Love to see this thread going strong. It's been quite awhile now since I did my swap, and still have zero regrets. I've been mowing 20k sq ft for a couple seasons now


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## Atlantalawn

drjones said:


> Final pics Mclane restoration. Just need to finish the grass catcher and get the reel ground.
> 
> Wow this is awesome!!! Great work. Where did you find those new handles?


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## ShadowGuy

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097K31LP2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

The linked pulley for the Predator 212 was out of stock. I ordered the one above. I realize it is 2.45 rather than 2.5. Other than the chance of a looser belt, anything that I should be concerned about? I figured, I can make up this difference with positioning of the motor, and the RPM with throttling.


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## bobtn67

Nice job....what size briggs and Stratton did the 3 hp Predator motor replace?


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## GreenLand

Hi, did you ever get this working properly?



msantaspirt said:


> I went ahead and bought the 3hp 79cc predator engine and swapped it out. Used some washers and spacers to lift it up high enough and was able to mount it on the mower. I bought a 3/4 inch bore, 2 1/2 inch diameter pulley and used the stock belt that I had on my previous engine (Kawasaki FA130D). I'll be honest I don't really know how to properly install the pulley. I set it on and it felt looser than it should. I wasn't sure what to do with the pulley key. It didn't seem to fit in slot witht the pulley on there. Anyway, I screwed everything in and got the belt on. Belt was a really tight fit which may have something to do with why it didn't work properly. Anyway, I started the motor up and it ran fine but when I pulled the clutch the blades never spun. I don't know if it's because I installed the pulley incorrectly or because the belt is too tight. And I'm not sure how to fix either. Anyone with the 3hp engine run into these problems? Just to be safe, I ordered a new belt and a 1/2 inch bore pulley to see if that helps.


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## ShadowGuy

drjones said:


> Here is the progress on my Mclane restoration project. I hope to have it completed within the next week or two and be mowing with her.


Did you paint the reel and bedknife without masking the cutting edge and just let the machine wear through the paint? Or did you have it sharpened after the painting?


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## bobtn67

Thanks to this post I was able to swap out my 3.5 hp Briggs with a 3hp Predator, which is enough power for my needs. If I run it at full speed the pace is way too fast for my old self, so about 1/3 throttle is perfect. Besides the new motor, I had to change my Jack Shaft with Pulley and Sprocket, and a new chain. Also cleaned and painted it, to make it look a little better than it was....


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## renn

Will the 3HP Predator fit on a 17" Mclane?


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## bobtn67

Yes the 3HP will fit on a 17" Mclane...


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## Guerra

I did a 79cc Predator swap. The 79cc comes with a mounting plate that can only put on one way. I thought that the mounting plate in the stock location put the engine way too close to the jack shaft and pulley. I rotated the mounting plate 180 deg by opening two of the mounting holes with a round file. I did use a hex nut as a spacer under the plate to raise the shaft to the stock height. That allowed me to use a stock belt. Rotating the mounting plate moved the engine to the right and the air cleaner was interfering with the down bar. Instead of adding a spacer like the 212 swaps I move the bars to the outside of the grass catcher mounting points and that was just enough room. It's really close but does not touch.

*Engine placement with mounting plate in stock location.*



*Engine placement with modified mounting plate rotated 180 deg*



*Down bar moved to outside of grass catcher mounts*



*Final install *


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## SwBermuda

With the 6.6 predator motor… any ideas on rerouting the muffler/exhaust away from me and towards the side?

Love everything about the mods from this thread but need someone to enlighten me on that if possible.


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## AustenTX422

Hey there! I found this thread and swapped out my B&D with a predator, but now cannot seem to get my clutch to engage. It seems like it hits the pulley and shaft. Any ideas what could be the issue?


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## kmbell3837

SwBermuda said:


> With the 6.6 predator motor… any ideas on rerouting the muffler/exhaust away from me and towards the side?
> 
> Love everything about the mods from this thread but need someone to enlighten me on that if possible.


Any updates on this? Mine is blowing straight on the cross frame.

UPDATE: Found this a from @Lawnguy a few years back. Just ordered it:

https://www.amazon.com/Muffler-Deflector-18331-ZE3-810-for-HONDA/dp/B001OKBFCC/?tag=lawnforum-20


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## rolla

Did the Predator swap on my old Mclane, thanks to all the advice here it went super smooth.



Thought I would share how I modified my plastic grass catch to work with the Reel Roller, using a black 15gal nursery bucket and some double-sided Gorilla tape.


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## Krampus1313

So I bought the 212 cc for my JD 20 SR7 because the kawasaki engine wouldn't start. I got it for $75 a few weeks ago, started and ran at their house started at mine, and now it wouldn't. I tried starter fluid etc and just couldn't get it to run and it had spark and what not. I was expecting to swap the motor anyways because I wanted to be like Clarkson "POWWWAAA" and my chassis is great. got the motor yesterday, needed to get the spacers and new belt today at lunch and cant wait to finish it. I want to reset HOC tonight or tomorrow here in NC I still have time to do so with heat. I will post pictures tomorrow.


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## Krampus1313

Okay so the belt that comes with it is 19.5 in and I got a 20-in belt at Ace. True value but it is still a tad bit short. By short I mean even when I put the spacers on which are just at about a half inch the belt is tight enough to where I don't even have to pull the PTO. It's already trying to cut. So looks like I'll get a 21.5 or possibly even a 22-in belt tomorrow. But meanwhile I forgot everything put on and set up. I dropped what I thought was a height of cut. Just one not shorter and guess I'm doing a scalp because that son of a gun cut right to the dirt almost.


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## Krampus1313

21 inch belt seems to be okay, still a little loose so I may add another shim to the motor mounts to remove slack


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## Grant803

Alright Team,

So, I have a Mclane 20 in. I am planning a winter restoration project. What is the resource that you would recommend for the process of upgrading the engine. I am looking for kind of a one stop shop for a resource. Like this engine, belt, and pulley system with these spacers will have you swapped and running in 2 hours type of thing. Thanks for any assistance.


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## girevik

I've swapped a few engines on McLane 20" mowers. It's always been a little trial and error.

New engine may have a slightly different shaft size that needs a different pulley bore, shaft location may be slightly different requiring a bit longer or shorter belt. 

The engines themselves are super simple to swap, assuming it physically fits (watch for the tank hitting the handle). After that it's getting the right belt length and tension. It's really not a hard process for even the most basic mechanical skill level.

With that said, the only "formula" would be to copy someone else's setup and hope the manufacturer hasn't changed something in the meantime.


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## SwBermuda

Anyone ever had an issue with the new pulley coming off the shaft of the predator engine? Noticed that it was slowly working it’s way off the shaft and wondering why that would happen.
Pulley not on correctly? Belt size?


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