# How do you overseed?



## CPA Nerd (May 8, 2018)

As I have spent the better part of a couple years getting the lawn on my new house in order with some good success, I would like to maintain it each year by aerating and overseeding every fall. I understand that to seed bare spots I should rough up the soil first, but if I'm simply overseeding the entire lawn to keep it full and healthy, it is sufficient to aerate and then simply apply seed with a broadcast spreader?

Each fall I will go around and fill in spots larger than a baseball manually, but for general thickness, I am hoping that simply aerating and spreading seed will keep the lawn reasonably full and thick.


----------



## jessehurlburt (Oct 18, 2017)

Aerate and broadcast spread will work. You could also rent an overseeder and skip the aeration. That is another option.


----------



## CPA Nerd (May 8, 2018)

I may rent an aerator one weekend and then rent an overseeder the next. Best of both worlds. It's only $90 per day from Home Depot to rent the overseeder. Aerator is $83 and I can probably get it done cheaper with a service, but I want to do several passes and make sure it's done right.


----------



## mtroberts20 (Apr 13, 2018)

I did a TTTF reno in the back last year, and it went as well as I could have expected. I have a few bare/thin spots that I tried to fix up this spring without much success, and in fact I think my watering during that time started the conditions that have led to disease pressure I currently have. I am wanting to overseed this fall...probably lightly over the whole lawn, but especially the bare/thin areas.

My question is how should the watering be done for overseeding? When I did the reno I was watering several times per day to keep everything constantly moist. If I use that same approach for the overseed won't I create disease problems?


----------



## jessehurlburt (Oct 18, 2017)

CPA Nerd said:


> I may rent an aerator one weekend and then rent an overseeder the next. Best of both worlds. It's only $90 per day from Home Depot to rent the overseeder. Aerator is $83 and I can probably get it done cheaper with a service, but I want to do several passes and make sure it's done right.


This would be the best option, IMO. I may do the same, but I will certainly use a slice seeder for my overseed.


----------



## CPA Nerd (May 8, 2018)

mtroberts20 said:


> I did a TTTF reno in the back last year, and it went as well as I could have expected. I have a few bare/thin spots that I tried to fix up this spring without much success, and in fact I think my watering during that time started the conditions that have led to disease pressure I currently have. I am wanting to overseed this fall...probably lightly over the whole lawn, but especially the bare/thin areas.
> 
> My question is how should the watering be done for overseeding? When I did the reno I was watering several times per day to keep everything constantly moist. If I use that same approach for the overseed won't I create disease problems?


Just water lightly a couple times a day, morning and evening. You want the seed moist, not soaked or puddled. If you are getting diseases, you may be overwatering.


----------



## mtroberts20 (Apr 13, 2018)

I'm not watering at all currently. Just have had tons of rain combined with very hot early season weather.


----------



## Roosterchest (Aug 3, 2017)

Here's my two cents on this....

I would skip the aeration and rent a hydro slice seeder--this drastically increases your seed to soil contact Typically this is a Toro model. It is light years ahead of the bluebird or classen type. I used it last year on my back yard reno and the grass came in great.

As far as water, there is less pressure to water more often since you already have a full stand of grass. Certainly the better you water the greater your chances for successful seed germination. Also, the seed will remain viable in the ground for some time--once the right water comes via mother nature you will have germination.


----------



## gene_stl (Oct 29, 2017)

The best slit seeder I have seen is the Ryan MataWay or its alter ego the Jacobsen AeroKing. These meter the seeds much more precisely because they have a Gandy disk seeder mounted on the rear. The seeds also are guided into slits rather than being laid on the soil surface and then getting hit by the blades. The Toro , Bluebird Husky and Classens all drop the seeds first.


----------



## CPA Nerd (May 8, 2018)

Roosterchest said:


> Here's my two cents on this....
> 
> I would skip the aeration and rent a hydro slice seeder--this drastically increases your seed to soil contact Typically this is a Toro model. It is light years ahead of the bluebird or classen type. I used it last year on my back yard reno and the grass came in great.
> 
> As far as water, there is less pressure to water more often since you already have a full stand of grass. Certainly the better you water the greater your chances for successful seed germination. Also, the seed will remain viable in the ground for some time--once the right water comes via mother nature you will have germination.


Thank you. I am only able to find the Classen slice seeders in my area. How is it better than the Classen? Also, why do you recommend skipping the aeration?


----------



## Roosterchest (Aug 3, 2017)

I like the Toro better because it was a hydro model which means it's really easy to maneuver. I've also heard that Classen seed boxes can fall off and don't measure the seed really well. I've not used a Classen but this is what I found researching last year.

As far as aeration, I don't find a need for it. I did it a few years ago and it's a body-beater. I also didn't really see much of a result from the seeding. Slice seeding gets you the best seed to soil contact and the cost is pretty much the same as an aerator.

When I start my front yard renovation in August I will rent the same Toro model and use that to sow the seed.


----------



## jessehurlburt (Oct 18, 2017)

gene_stl said:


> The best slit seeder I have seen is the Ryan MataWay or its alter ego the Jacobsen AeroKing. These meter the seeds much more precisely because they have a Gandy disk seeder mounted on the rear. The seeds also are guided into slits rather than being laid on the soil surface and then getting hit by the blades. The Toro , Bluebird Husky and Classens all drop the seeds first.


I did not know this. Good information on the classens dropping seed first..


----------



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

gene_stl said:


> The best slit seeder I have seen is the Ryan MataWay or its alter ego the Jacobsen AeroKing. These meter the seeds much more precisely because they have a Gandy disk seeder mounted on the rear. The seeds also are guided into slits rather than being laid on the soil surface and then getting hit by the blades.


Are those the ones with clear plastic tubes for the seed to drop through? I've seen green slit seeders like that.

Note to anyone with a small area or medium area size and a few weeks to stagger your seeding and prep work: the Groundskeeper II rake works really well, too. I did 4500 square feet with it last year before overseeding.


----------



## gene_stl (Oct 29, 2017)

Yes , the Mataway has the plastic tubes. The Jacobsen AeroKing which is very similar, too. You may find a Mataway available for rent but you will have to search for it specifically because there are many competitors.
At my age and in this climate, manual operations are not really an option.
I don't think there is anything available that meters the seeds, even close to as accurately as a Mataway or AeroKing. They have a drop seeder mechanism that is very adjustable and regulatable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Z9Vms1UB6E
http://www.ryanturf.com/products/ryan-overseeders/ryan-mataway-overseeder/


----------



## craigdt (Apr 21, 2018)

In my area, the only slice seeders you can rent are the crappy BlueBird models.

Do you guys think any benefit is worth the extra effort/cost vs the tow behind core aerator, tow behind thatch rake, and broadcast spreaders I already own?


----------

