# Soil Test Results



## Jtgorman75 (Jul 31, 2019)

Getting ready to sod 3000 sqft front yard and here are my soil test results. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks in advance,


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

How soon are you sodding?
Is this bare ground? New construction? What are your plans, if any, to prep before sod?


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## Jtgorman75 (Jul 31, 2019)

Ridgerunner said:


> How soon are you sodding?
> Is this bare ground? New construction? What are your plans, if any, to prep before sod?


Sodding in next 2-3 weeks. Thinking of rototilling old turf into soil using soil cultivator attachment to mini skidsteer. Would mix in any needed amendments at this time.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

You'll get a number of opinions on this, but when sodding, as with seeding, contact with the soil is important.This is an established lawn, the soil is settled and unless there were big texture , pH or nutrient issues, it's best to leave well enough alone. Rather than a tiller, spend your money on a sod cutter and remove the surface growth. If it were new construction, that might be another matter and it might have been worth the effort to till and adjust the CA:Mg (if the soil exhibited "tightness"- resists insertion of a screwdriver, slow water penetration, etc or pH.
Your nutrient levels are not deficient. I don't see any necessity to amend the soil prior to sodding. Follow the industry default method: Sod, water and use (spoon feed) a Triple NPK to promote growth, health and help establishment.


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## Jtgorman75 (Jul 31, 2019)

Ridgerunner said:


> You'll get a number of opinions on this, but when sodding, as with seeding, contact with the soil is important.This is an established lawn, the soil is settled and unless there were big texture , pH or nutrient issues, it's best to leave well enough alone. Rather than a tiller, spend your money on a sod cutter and remove the surface growth. If it were new construction, that might be another matter and it might have been worth the effort to till and adjust the CA:Mg (if the soil exhibited "tightness"- resists insertion of a screwdriver, slow water penetration, etc or pH.
> Your nutrient levels are not deficient. I don't see any necessity to amend the soil prior to sodding. Follow the industry default method: Sod, water and use (spoon feed) a Triple NPK to promote growth, health and help establishment.


Yes I have received many opinions on the prep options for the sod installation. One professional indicated that my lawn likely failed due to a overly thick thatch layer and that I should stay away from KBG due to its propensity to develop thatch and recommended sod cutting and PRG seed mix. Though I worry that our harsh winters would be too much for PRG. Thoughts? Also, no concerns with the slightly high pH? Maybe ammonium sulfate fertilizer to slowly correct it?


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

I can't answer your PRG question. I'm in Ohio (a bit North Pittsburgh latitude) and although I have a KBG lawn, my neighbors have NoMix, predominately KBG and Rye and they perform quite well. In fact I'm considering sowing some Rye into my lawn. I suggest you get input from your university extension or a sod farm regarding Rye viability in Syracuse. Consider KBG mixed in too for its repair and spread abilities. pH 7.2 should present few issues- a slight impact on micro and P availability. Lowering pH could improve availability and AMS, citric acid and elemental sulfur can be used in that goal. At 7.2, and CEC 14, it's possible that longer term soil pH could be achieved without applying exorbitant quantities of soil acidifiers, notwithstanding changing soil pH, using AMS regularly will help keep soil water solution more acidic and give the root exudates a bootstrap up in extracting nutrients.


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