# DIY Auto Detailing



## Ware

Who does it? What products do you like/use? What are the "must-haves"?


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## Redtenchu

I like this, I have some specific questions!

How do you clean the inside of a car windshield? It's so awkward and hard to reach!

Anyone know of a good way to remove minor scratches without causing more damage? I've watched a few videos, but overall I'm still a little concerned about causing more damage.


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## kds

I haven't had a lot of time lately to do any real detailing, but when I did, I swore by everything Meguiar's. The whole kit 'n' caboodle.



Redtenchu said:


> I like this, I have some specific questions!
> 
> How do you clean the inside of a car windshield? It's so awkward and hard to reach!
> 
> Anyone know of a good way to remove minor scratches without causing more damage? I've watched a few videos, but overall I'm still a little concerned about causing more damage.


I just suck it up and use Stoner Invisible Glass with a nice microfiber, after I have wiped down the dash. Make sure when you're wiping down by the dashboard you're not smearing grease along with your towel.

As for the scratches, how long/deep are they? I'd recommend Meguiar's Ultimate Compound or their Rubbing Compound. I don't have a machine and those do a great job just by hand.


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## Topcat

Mequiar's Products. I use their clay bar with their auto detail mist spray when I do deep clean detail. I use to do car shows with my Fiero a lot. I've done a lot of restoration and modification to the car.

MeQuiar's has a polishing compound for taking out minor scratches and swirls that works great. When I do a full detail, I typically use a rubbing compound, then a polishing before finishing with wax. It can be an all day chore. I did a car show a few weeks ago, and that was the first detail that I've done to the Fiero this year. I've not done the Corvette at all this year...


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## MrMeaner

I use several products for DIY detailing including but not limited to, meguires, mothers, adams, griot garage

I usually do a full polish once a year, which Includes claying the car, full polish and wax. Most of the the time during the year I will either do a two bucket wash or run it through the auto car wash if I am short on time.


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## Mightyquinn

I got really big into auto detailing about 8-9 years ago and basically solely use Griot's Garage products as I have found their products to be top notch and you can't beat their 180 day satisfaction guarantee and they have excellent customer service.

I kind of got away from it over the last year or two but do still plan to get back into it eventually. My daily driver is a lost hope as the paint has faded on it but the wife's car needs a good once over.


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## Redtenchu

kds said:


> As for the scratches, how long/deep are they? I'd recommend Meguiar's Ultimate Compound or their Rubbing Compound. I don't have a machine and those do a great job just by hand.


The scratches aren't to long or deep, just plentiful. They disappear when wet, I've read that indicates the scratch is only in the topcoat layer. I'll check out the compounds, any application tips?


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## monty

I use Meguiar's products. I learned some good tips from the site below, especially for windows. It also motivated me to try out a clay bar.

Spare Me The Details

It can be tough to find all of the spare me the details articles, but if you scroll to the bottom of the first one you will see the second one, bottom of the second one, the third and so on.


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## Tex86

Redtenchu said:


> I like this, I have some specific questions!
> 
> How do you clean the inside of a car windshield? It's so awkward and hard to reach!
> 
> Anyone know of a good way to remove minor scratches without causing more damage? I've watched a few videos, but overall I'm still a little concerned about causing more damage.


I believe that they make a wiper that you can use rather than leaning on the passenger/driver seat to get the right angle.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/1-Microf...3202&wl11=online&wl12=144162617&wl13=&veh=sem

I have never used this personally while detailing both of our cars, but I've been told it works well for the price.

To get a streak free shine, I use a clean microfiber cloth after washing with the windshield cleaner. This removes all of the streaks.



MrMeaner said:


> I use several products for DIY detailing including but not limited to, meguires, mothers, adams, griot garage
> 
> I usually do a full polish once a year, which Includes claying the car, full polish and wax. Most of the the time during the year I will either do a two bucket wash or run it through the auto car wash if I am short on time.


A clay/polish/wax is my combination too. Keeps the shine consistent all year! :thumbup:


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## 95mmrenegade

I have tried soo many products over the last 25 years its not funny. Here is what I like to use....

Cars: 2015 Porsche 911 Turbo S && 2017 Audi S5 Cabriolet && 2017 Ford Explorer

Detail using a 2 bucket system

Carwash: 50/50 mix of Grots car wash and Meguiars Car wash
- one rinse bucket
- one clean bucket
- foam cannon to apply soap to car

Glass: Mothers revision hands down is the best glass cleaner on the market

Wheel tire: Meguiars 1 gallon: Detailer - wheel and tire cleaner
- use a spiral brush 12" long with 6" soft bristles for the first pass
- green handle yellow bristle brush on the tires(find at home depot or auto parts store)
- Microfiber on the last pass on each wheel

Tires: Meguiars tire gel(purple)
- This stuff doesn't come off easy
- applied with a curved applicator on the cars
- applied with a large sponge on the trucks/suv

fine scratchs: 3m perfect it
- start with hand application if that does not get it done
- step 2 is orbital buffer with a blue 3m finesse pad
- step 3 is rotary buffer with a blue 3m finesse pad
- step 4 is a rotary buffer with a wool pad

drying the car:
Ego 56v leaf blower

Post drying every wash:
Wipe the car down with Meguiars ultimate quick wax or premium quick wax

Convertible top care: Ragtop cleaner and conditioner

Interior: Mothers VLR(I am not 100% happy with the product and looking for other options)

Microfibers: The ones at Walmart, Pepboys, Target are all junk. IF I use them they are only for washing the car, you really need to find a premium thick microfiber split fiber. I ended up picking up 50 green thick microfiber towels

Cleaning Microfiber towels - do not use heat, do not use a normal soap(use MF specific detergent). If you use heat throw them away.


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## scarlso2

I discovered Coatings a few years ago and they're a game-changer for me. You prep the car by washing, claying, and removing any swirls/scratches with your choice of compound/polish. Then you remove any oils and residue with a coating prep, then instead of a wax you apply a permanent coating. There are coatings for every part of a car (plastic, glass, paint, chrome). The high quality coatings last years and leave an amazing hydrophobic property to your car. I've noticed mine is significantly easier to clean, I never use the wipers... like ever. It's all around awesome. Following a coating I wash monthly with a foam cannon and rinse with a spotless water system and let it dry in the sun. My goal is not to touch the paint after the foam cannon, but I sometimes have to do a light pass with a soft mit. With my latest car I used the pinnacle black label diamond kit and I've really liked it so far


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## massgrass

I just use Meguiar's products. Wash with Ultimate Wash and Wax every couple of weeks with microfiber mitt (two bucket system with Grit Guards) and dry with their microfiber drying towel. I wax every six weeks with Ultimate Wax and use the included applicator pad and microfiber towel. A wash and dry takes me about an hour and a wash/dry/wax takes about two hours. I also rarely use the wipers like scarlso2 mentions due to the Ultimae Wash and Wax.

A couple of months ago my BIL told me that the car I bought last year looked brand new. A few weeks ago a guy at the local hardware store said "Wow, your car is even shiny in the rain!". It's good motivation when I don't feel like waxing. :mrgreen:


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## monty

95mmrenegade said:


> Glass: Mothers revision hands down is the best glass cleaner on the market


Have you used the Meguiar glass cleaner? I really like it with a spray, wipe one towel, buff 2nd towel approach. If mother's is better I'll give it a shot.


95mmrenegade said:


> drying the car:
> Ego 56v leaf blower


Guessing you don't have hard water. A drying towel is a must for me, otherwise i can see water deposits.


95mmrenegade said:


> Interior: Mothers VLR(I am not 100% happy with the product and looking for other options)


I really like the Meguiar's Natural Shine. I think it's the closest thing to a "like new" look. Not overly shiney and no slippery steering wheel.


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## 95mmrenegade

scarlso2 said:


> I discovered Coatings a few years ago and they're a game-changer for me. You prep the car by washing, claying, and removing any swirls/scratches with your choice of compound/polish. Then you remove any oils and residue with a coating prep, then instead of a wax you apply a permanent coating. There are coatings for every part of a car (plastic, glass, paint, chrome). The high quality coatings last years and leave an amazing hydrophobic property to your car. I've noticed mine is significantly easier to clean, I never use the wipers... like ever. It's all around awesome. Following a coating I wash monthly with a foam cannon and rinse with a spotless water system and let it dry in the sun. My goal is not to touch the paint after the foam cannon, but I sometimes have to do a light pass with a soft mit. With my latest car I used the pinnacle black label diamond kit and I've really liked it so far


I had my ZR1 coated, I am in the fence on the 911. If I knew I was going to keep it for a while it would be a no brainer but everytime I dee a Huracan, I debate about putting the 911 up for sale on rennlist. I have heard good things about pinnacle.


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## 95mmrenegade

monty said:


> 95mmrenegade said:
> 
> 
> 
> Glass: Mothers revision hands down is the best glass cleaner on the market
> 
> 
> 
> Have you used the Meguiar glass cleaner? I really like it with a spray, wipe one towel, buff 2nd towel approach. If mother's is better I'll give it a shot.
> 
> 
> 95mmrenegade said:
> 
> 
> 
> drying the car:
> Ego 56v leaf blower
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Guessing you don't have hard water. A drying towel is a must for me, otherwise i can see water deposits.
> 
> 
> 95mmrenegade said:
> 
> 
> 
> Interior: Mothers VLR(I am not 100% happy with the product and looking for other options)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I really like the Meguiar's Natural Shine. I think it's the closest thing to a "like new" look. Not overly shiney and no slippery steering wheel.
Click to expand...

I have tried every glass cleaner on the market and my wife is my sanity check. I found revision at a local autostore on the clearance rack for 3.99. It was a noticeably better product. The wife tried it and was extremely happy, happy enough to order 2 cases if it.

I am on city water so my dry routine consists of blowing it off followed by a micrfiber and ultimate quik wax after every detail. Without a wipedown I do get some waterspots.

I will try some of the interior cleaner and report back.


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## FRD135i

Redtenchu said:


> I like this, I have some specific questions!
> 
> How do you clean the inside of a car windshield? It's so awkward and hard to reach!
> 
> Anyone know of a good way to remove minor scratches without causing more damage? I've watched a few videos, but overall I'm still a little concerned about causing more damage.


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## FRD135i

https://youtu.be/XPtft2TcY6E


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## FRD135i

http://www.detailedimage.com/Auto-Detailing-Guide/

And this might help.


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## Redtenchu

Thanks!


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## FRD135i

Good stuff here 
https://youtu.be/R0EOb2nEWtk


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## Shindoman

I use Chemical Guys detailing products. One stop shopping for everything I need.
Foam cannon is great. All my cars get a ceramic paint protection when I get them so waxing is a thing of the past.


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## Rackhouse Mayor

@Redtenchu I know some of this has been covered but I'll give you my take on cleaning a windshield. I use Stoners. I experiment with all kinds of car products but I never get away from Stoners. The best lint free cloth that i've found for glass was from Griot's Garage, but I don't think they make them anymore. I don't see them on their website tonight. However, microfiber matter A LOT. So keep experimenting.

Anyways, in high school and college i worked for a car detailer and learned a few processes to make things easier. For windows, spray the cleaner on the window/windshield, make a perimeter pass like you would with fert then fill the rest in back and forth. For a windshield or back glass you do this in halves. Another pro tip is to clean inside glass with horizontal wipes and outside glass with vertical wipes. That way you'll know where the streaks are coming from later when you're driving down the road and see them. Hope this helps.


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## Redtenchu

Rackhouse Mayor said:


> For windows, spray the cleaner on the window/windshield, make a perimeter pass like you would with fert then fill the rest in back and forth. For a windshield or back glass you do this in halves. Another pro tip is to clean inside glass with horizontal wipes and outside glass with vertical wipes. That way you'll know where the streaks are coming from later when you're driving down the road and see them. Hope this helps.


Good tips! Thanks.


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## Colonel K0rn

@Rackhouse Mayor good tip. I have used Stoners since I worked for Mercedes-Benz back in the mid 2000's. I figured if it was good enough to clean the windows of $250K cars, it's good enough for my ride. Have been happy with the products so far.

+1 on Chemical Guys foam cannon. I got one last year, and it makes washing the van much easier. I'll break out the pressure washer, give it a blast to loosen most of the surface dirt, then use the Honeydew Snow Foam to cover the entire van. I let the soap loosen the dirt, then cover it again and use a dedicated van-washing brush, then rinse clean. This used to take forever when you're washing it by hand, but now, I can be drying it off in under 15 minutes.

For interior leather, I have been using Griot's Garage's Leather Care , and Interior Cleaner  for plastics. Never had any issues with it attracting dirt, and makes the plastic look nice.

Rain-X on the exterior, Rain-X Anti-Fog on the inside.

What I do want to know is if anyone has tried that F-1, or F-11 poly coating (I don't remember the name of it)on their vehicles?


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## Colonel K0rn

FRD135i said:


> Good stuff here


R0EOb2nEWtk[/MEDIA]?t=10m35s]He puts stripes on the floor mats at 10:35. Our kind of guy!


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## FRD135i

Colonel K0rn said:


> FRD135i said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good stuff here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> R0EOb2nEWtk[/MEDIA]?t=10m35s]He puts stripes on the floor mats at 10:35. Our kind of guy!
Click to expand...

Only true lawn enthusiasts put stripes in everything possible.


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## iFisch3224

My go to place for business for detailing products.

https://www.autogeek.net/

Half my garage is spared for said products and I probably have as much invested to quality car care products as I do my lawn.


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## daniel3507

I didn't know we had this thread! Detailing is a big hobby of mine. I've spent way too much time and money on products. Autogeek.net is a great place. I usually only buy when they have free shipping though as the shipping cost is pretty high for some reason. Detailed image is great too. The Rag Company has fantastic towels.

As far as products go, Tuf Shine Tire Clearcoat is my go to tire dressing. Dry, doesn't sling, and it lasts forever. A little expensive though.
Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant is also a great one. Super slick to the touch.
Pinnacle Souveran Paste Wax is a great wax but doesn't last long
Poor Boys World Bug Squash is a must for me. Really helps get the gunk off the bumpers.
303 is also a must for keeping plastics in good shape.

If there is one thing I've learned in detailing, do not limit yourself to only using one brand of detailing products. There is so much great stuff out there, why limit yourself to one company?


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## OnyxsLawn

95mmrenegade said:


> Interior: Mothers VLR(I am not 100% happy with the product and looking for other options)


Give Griots interior cleaner a try. Its safe to spray on pretty much everything inside the car. Lexol leather conditioner is the best i've found for leather. I use it on all my leather (even around the house) and on the dash the upper door panels as it doesn't produce haze on the windows. Griots vinyl and rubber dressing is great for the floor mats and pedals and doesn't leave a residue like armor all as long as you let it dry then give it a quick buff.

Also, to anyone with a dog, silicone brushes are a must for getting dog hair out of the upholstery. griots sells one but I originally found mine at the local grocery with a lint roller on the back of it.


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## quattljl

Glad to see there are some other detailers on this forum. Detailing is another hobby of mine I really got into a couple years ago after getting tired of the water spots and the hours it took to wash a full size truck I had bought lol.

I personally use a lot of the Optimum product line. The price per application is better than just about anything out there, the products are very versatile, and the results speak for themselves. ONR is amazing stuff. You can use it for just about anything. I've used OCW, Opti-Seal, and Gloss Coat. For my personal situation (car sitting outside and under tree cover 24/7), I prefer the car wax over Opti-Seal or Gloss Coat. The car wax gives that deep color pop that a wax should, makes the surface super slick to the touch, and does a better job at preventing water spots than OS or GC. I could go on talking a little about each product I've used, but I don't want to sound like an Optimum sales man. I _do_ use other products.

For towels, I use the Rag Company. Creatures, Eagles, Pluffles, and the standard glass towels are my go to.

I use a PC 7424XP but would love to upgrade to either a Rupes or Zentool and add in an Ibrid Nano eventually, but $$$.

For compounds and polishes, again I use Optimum products. Hyper Compound has good cut and I love that it doesn't dust. The sprayable aspect of the hyper line makes it easy to get the amount right every time.

For glass, I either use ONR or Invisible Glass. Invisible glass seems to do a little better job of cutting through the film on the inside of windshields in my experience.

As far as must-have tools, I use a BRS for my washes. I feel like this really speeds up the wash process vs wringing out towels, folding them, rolling them as I wipe, discarding them, grabbing a new one, etc. Any kind of synthetic clay is a game changer imo. So much quicker (and reusable!) than regular clay. I personally use Nano-skin sponges. Lastly, one of those yellow leather/vinyl scrubbers is a must have. That thing can get dirt out of leather that you just cleaned with a microfiber or even a horse hair/boars hair brush but is super gentle.


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## goneflying87

I use to detail on the side until people were getting crazy with negotiating with my prices. This one guy wanted a full on exterior details for $40 which he wanted a wash; polish; wax; and sealant. From there on I just did it for personal and friends only of course I wouldn't give them a price since there were some exchange. I've been using Chemical Guys for a while and to be honest not all their products are worth it! I did some upgrades here and there which has worked in my favor. I will share some pictures of how I use to keep the Mustang when it was in my possession.

These is my arsenal tools:
Polisher: Porter Cable 7242 XP
Vacuum: Metrovac
Foam Cannon: MTM Foam cannon

Products:
Soaps: Chemical Guys: Mr. Pink / Citrus Wash + Gloss
Rim/Wheel wash: Iron X
Polisher/pain correction: Chemical Guys V36-V38
Interior: Inner Clean + VRP or G6 Hyper Coat(Shine) by Chemical Guys
Wheel dressing: Either VRP or Mckee's 37' wheel coat (water based)
Wax: Chemical Guys: 3X, Petes 56, or Concourse 50/50
Glass: Checmical Guys Glossworks
Towels: I would use the waffle microfiber towels for drying which works really great! Then regular towels for the rest.
Air Refreshener: Stripper by Chemical guys (if I was going on a date) or Black Ice

Check the pictures of my 2006 Mustang GT a.k.a Pegasus:


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## goneflying87

Shindoman said:


> I use Chemical Guys detailing products. One stop shopping for everything I need.
> Foam cannon is great. All my cars get a ceramic paint protection when I get them so waxing is a thing of the past.


Becareful with them not all products are worth the money lol. I had a friend that worked for them and he told me that the Project wax (1,000K price tag) is the same as concours 50/50 wax; what makes it expensive is the can and it is the same wax as concours 50/50 just with a little bit more of carnuba wax.


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## Soyar

This has been a constant issue for me as well. I've gone through several spray and wipe cleaners meant for auto glass. The only one that's left the windows satisfactorily cleaned has been these tiny wipes from Armour All called "Glass Cleaner with Anti-Fog Wipes" which comes in a 15 wipe container They've been far more effective at cleaning than the other wipes and sprays I've tried, but they're so tiny (6"x7") that it takes several to clean all the car windows. So they're not very cost effective.


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## daniel3507

goneflying87 said:


> Shindoman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I use Chemical Guys detailing products. One stop shopping for everything I need.
> Foam cannon is great. All my cars get a ceramic paint protection when I get them so waxing is a thing of the past.
> 
> 
> 
> Becareful with them not all products are worth the money lol. I had a friend that worked for them and he told me that the Project wax (1,000K price tag) is the same as concours 50/50 wax; what makes it expensive is the can and it is the same wax as concours 50/50 just with a little bit more of carnuba wax.
Click to expand...

That's not surprising to hear. I think Chemical Guys has great marketing for average products. I like some of their products but nothing has blown me away. There is something about them though where they seem to have a huge fan base of people who use them exclusively. A friend purchased one of their polisher kits with their Torq buffer. It broke twice on him. After the second one broke I let him use my Porter Cable and M101 and M201. He ended up ditching the Chemical Guys stuff after that.



Soyar said:


> This has been a constant issue for me as well. I've gone through several spray and wipe cleaners meant for auto glass. The only one that's left the windows satisfactorily cleaned has been these tiny wipes from Armour All called "Glass Cleaner with Anti-Fog Wipes" which comes in a 15 wipe container. They've been far more effective at cleaning than the other wipes and sprays I've tried, but they're so tiny (6"x7") that it takes several to clean all the car windows. So they're not very cost effective.


Have you tried a glass microfibre? They are designed specifically for glass and seem to work really well. Also, Stoners Invisible Glass in the aerosol can is one my favorite OTC glass cleaner.


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## goneflying87

daniel3507 said:


> goneflying87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shindoman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I use Chemical Guys detailing products. One stop shopping for everything I need.
> Foam cannon is great. All my cars get a ceramic paint protection when I get them so waxing is a thing of the past.
> 
> 
> 
> Becareful with them not all products are worth the money lol. I had a friend that worked for them and he told me that the Project wax (1,000K price tag) is the same as concours 50/50 wax; what makes it expensive is the can and it is the same wax as concours 50/50 just with a little bit more of carnuba wax.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's not surprising to hear. I think Chemical Guys has great marketing for average products. I like some of their products but nothing has blown me away. There is something about them though where they seem to have a huge fan base of people who use them exclusively. A friend purchased one of their polisher kits with their Torq buffer. It broke twice on him. After the second one broke I let him use my Porter Cable and M101 and M201. He ended up ditching the Chemical Guys stuff after that.
> 
> I actually had the Torq buffer when I thought it was good; I saw many good reviews. I was here doubting my PC 7242 in which I thought it was out dated; needed more power; and something up to date. Turns out that the Torq was trash! on the top part would heat up in which was a no go for me. The power was not the same as the PC 7424 in which surprisingly the PC had more RPM's than the Torq; I ended up selling it. I still have my PC 7424 which is so versatile and does a great job despite the loud noise it makes. Surprisingly the Porter Cable is half the price of it; been wanting to upgrade to the Flex 3401 but the price tag is stopping me!
Click to expand...


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## Shindoman

goneflying87 said:


> Shindoman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I use Chemical Guys detailing products. One stop shopping for everything I need.
> Foam cannon is great. All my cars get a ceramic paint protection when I get them so waxing is a thing of the past.
> 
> 
> 
> Becareful with them not all products are worth the money lol. I had a friend that worked for them and he told me that the Project wax (1,000K price tag) is the same as concours 50/50 wax; what makes it expensive is the can and it is the same wax as concours 50/50 just with a little bit more of carnuba wax.
Click to expand...

I never buy wax anyway.


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## 440mag

Jax wax! The purple liquid in the spray bottle ... ez on, ez off ...



Nuthin but water on the vinyl ...


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## craigdt

oooh, I love getting to show my mini fridge of waxes:


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## goneflying87

craigdt said:


> oooh, I love getting to show my mini fridge of waxes:


I would so totally do this; as I am getting heat for having the fridge full of beer I know they will give me heat for wax.


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## goneflying87

daniel3507 said:


> goneflying87 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shindoman said:
> 
> 
> 
> I use Chemical Guys detailing products. One stop shopping for everything I need.
> Foam cannon is great. All my cars get a ceramic paint protection when I get them so waxing is a thing of the past.
> 
> 
> 
> Becareful with them not all products are worth the money lol. I had a friend that worked for them and he told me that the Project wax (1,000K price tag) is the same as concours 50/50 wax; what makes it expensive is the can and it is the same wax as concours 50/50 just with a little bit more of carnuba wax.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's not surprising to hear. I think Chemical Guys has great marketing for average products. I like some of their products but nothing has blown me away. There is something about them though where they seem to have a huge fan base of people who use them exclusively. A friend purchased one of their polisher kits with their Torq buffer. It broke twice on him. After the second one broke I let him use my Porter Cable and M101 and M201. He ended up ditching the Chemical Guys stuff after that.
Click to expand...

I agree their products are average but not elite like some other ones. I use to use diablo wheel cleaner but as not all that. I ditched it and used Iron-X in which I liked it a lot. I had the Torq 10 I believe and it did not had the same outcome as my PC 7424. I just use for now the Hex logic pads and backing plates other than that just soaps; water base dressing; and towels.


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## daniel3507

craigdt said:


> oooh, I love getting to show my mini fridge of waxes:


I see someone stocked up on Megs #16. I have three cans of it and have been happy with it on white paint.


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## craigdt

daniel3507 said:


> craigdt said:
> 
> 
> 
> oooh, I love getting to show my mini fridge of waxes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see someone stocked up on Megs #16. I have three cans of it and have been happy with it on white paint.
Click to expand...

Detailing was my hobby back when I was in college-i loved laying down a fresh coat of wax on my precious 2001 Malibu with white paint.

Don't have much time for it anymore, but my wife gets me a new wax for Christmas most years.

The #16 is great to play with.

I melted some down and poured it in an empty deodorant stick.

It was great for applying wax by machine.


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## TroyScherer

Auto detailing is my 1st OCD thing that I really dove into and have really gone down the rabbit hole. I am fairly regular and active on Autopia and a few other forums and Facebook groups. All under my same user name.

https://www.autopia.org/
https://www.autogeekonline.net/


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## daniel3507

craigdt said:


> daniel3507 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> craigdt said:
> 
> 
> 
> oooh, I love getting to show my mini fridge of waxes:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see someone stocked up on Megs #16. I have three cans of it and have been happy with it on white paint.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Detailing was my hobby back when I was in college-i loved laying down a fresh coat of wax on my precious 2001 Malibu with white paint.
> 
> Don't have much time for it anymore, but my wife gets me a new wax for Christmas most years.
> 
> The #16 is great to play with.
> 
> I melted some down and poured it in an empty deodorant stick.
> 
> It was great for applying wax by machine.
Click to expand...

The deodorant stick sounds like a good trick. I prefer to wax by hand but might have to try that out.

Also, the Natty's Red is probably my favorite smelling wax of all time.


----------



## Cavan806

My neighbors kid decided to do a little custom design on my door a few weeks ago. The scratches were pretty superficial. It was the perfect excuse to do a 2 step correction on my entire Tahoe. I've been using Chemical Guys products for a long time now.


----------



## kds

@Cavan806


----------



## FATC1TY

I just got into the foam cannon stuff and chemical guys start kit... haven't a clue what's worth a damn. Not real big into cleaning and detailing but want to take care of my new truck. Ended up having to get all this stuff to wash it. It's too big to go through car washes, so not much choice!

Any long handled devices that can help wash the tops of trucks/suvs without scratching ?


----------



## daniel3507

FATC1TY said:


> I just got into the foam cannon stuff and chemical guys start kit... haven't a clue what's worth a damn. Not real big into cleaning and detailing but want to take care of my new truck. Ended up having to get all this stuff to wash it. It's too big to go through car washes, so not much choice!
> 
> Any long handled devices that can help wash the tops of trucks/suvs without scratching ?


I don't know about long handled devices but I ended up getting a small work platform and 100% recommend it. I use it to wash the top of my truck and do oil changes. Makes it much easier to reach and see what you are doing.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Werner-1-67-ft-x-3-75-ft-x-12-in-250-lbs-lb-Aluminum-Work-Platform/1000381787


----------



## 95mmrenegade

Started a new process at the end of last year, traditionally I wash the vehicles at least once every week or 2. On your 6-8th wash, foam cannon is a must, wash the car/truck as normal. After you have rinsed all of the soap from the 1st cleaning with the foam cannon off, re-foam the entire vehicle and clay bar the vehicle almost like wet sanding using the foam as a lubricant. Usually you can do a vehicle in 5-8 minutes. This process is usually done every other month. Once the car is completely done, spray off the vehicle with the pressure washer. Blow it 95% dry with some type of leaf blower(I use a 56v ego) or air drying tool and follow behind it with the quick wax spray of your choice. I have migrated over to a bulk Maguire's product and the paint is always silky smooth week to week. Extremely happy with the weekly product.


----------



## cglarsen

95mmrenegade said:


> Started a new process at the end of last year, traditionally I wash the vehicles at least once every week or 2. On your 6-8th wash, foam cannon is a must, wash the car/truck as normal. After you have rinsed all of the soap from the 1st cleaning with the foam cannon off, re-foam the entire vehicle and clay bar the vehicle almost like wet sanding using the foam as a lubricant. Usually you can do a vehicle in 5-8 minutes. This process is usually done every other month. Once the car is completely done, spray off the vehicle with the pressure washer. Blow it 95% dry with some type of leaf blower(I use a 56v ego) or air drying tool and follow behind it with the quick wax spray of your choice. I have migrated over to a bulk Maguire's product and the paint is always silky smooth week to week. Extremely happy with the weekly product.


Sounds like a great system. I'm starting to slack on claying and waxes so this may be a good solution. How often do you apply a sealant?


----------



## 95mmrenegade

I hated claying a car due to the time it took. Changing the process to using the foam cannon as a lubricant, you can speed around the car, one hand feeling for imperfections, one hand claying. I believe the product I use is Meguiars D156. I apply it weekly after your normal car wash and blow 95% dry. Your paint will be silky smooth guaranteed. I was originally using Ultimate quick wax and have switched to the D156. Initally I did half the hood with UQW and the other half with D156 and watching the water beading action over the course of 2 weeks, the D156 seemed to last longer. I have done this exact process on my Corvette, 911, Explorer, F-150, Audi and they all react the same way. Extremely pleased with the results.


----------



## Green

Ok, this is going to sound weird, but here goes...

A while back I was really sick with a Norovirus, and had uncontrollable barfing of entire stomach contents about 20 times in 12 hours when it hit. I don't know how I drove home from work without vomiting. Anyway, when I got home, I threw up in the car into a bag, but some of it landed down in between one of the front seats (fabric) and the console. What's the best way to totally clean up dried barf that's in a hard to reach spot like that?


----------



## 95mmrenegade

Pull the seat out. There should be 4 plastic covers on each corner followed by 4 13-16mm nuts that keep the seat attached to the car.


----------



## Green

95mmrenegade said:


> Pull the seat out. There should be 4 plastic covers on each corner followed by 4 13-16mm nuts that keep the seat attached to the car.


Sorry, I should have been more clear. I was wondering what type of cleaner to use on the fabric, or if I should make my own.


----------



## Hexadecimal 00FF00

Obsessed Garage Youtube
obsessedgarage.com

Appreciate and benefit from his OCD.


----------



## cglarsen

95mmrenegade said:


> I hated claying a car due to the time it took. Changing the process to using the foam cannon as a lubricant, you can speed around the car, one hand feeling for imperfections, one hand claying. I believe the product I use is Meguiars D156. I apply it weekly after your normal car wash and blow 95% dry. Your paint will be silky smooth guaranteed. I was originally using Ultimate quick wax and have switched to the D156. Initally I did half the hood with UQW and the other half with D156 and watching the water beading action over the course of 2 weeks, the D156 seemed to last longer. I have done this exact process on my Corvette, 911, Explorer, F-150, Audi and they all react the same way. Extremely pleased with the results.


Man, now you've got me looking into pressure washers and the Ego system. What kind of size/power do you run on the pressure washer with foam cannon?


----------



## tomartom

I agree with aclot of respondants
Meguires is my preferred product.
Wash, Chamois, clay bar, cutting compound, pre polish compound, polish (carnuba wax). This is my sewuence






Son's Car, Daughter's car and Our car. 21, 16 and 12 years of age


----------



## 95mmrenegade

cglarsen said:


> 95mmrenegade said:
> 
> 
> 
> I hated claying a car due to the time it took. Changing the process to using the foam cannon as a lubricant, you can speed around the car, one hand feeling for imperfections, one hand claying. I believe the product I use is Meguiars D156. I apply it weekly after your normal car wash and blow 95% dry. Your paint will be silky smooth guaranteed. I was originally using Ultimate quick wax and have switched to the D156. Initally I did half the hood with UQW and the other half with D156 and watching the water beading action over the course of 2 weeks, the D156 seemed to last longer. I have done this exact process on my Corvette, 911, Explorer, F-150, Audi and they all react the same way. Extremely pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> Man, now you've got me looking into pressure washers and the Ego system. What kind of size/power do you run on the pressure washer with foam cannon?
Click to expand...

I use an electric start ryobi from Home depot with a Subaru engine 3100psi. I can probably get by with less but it makes getting caked on mud off the truck with ease. My neighbor has an electric one, I will see which one he has. He likes his.


----------



## jimbeckel

Prepping my wifes Nissan for compounding, polishing and wax.


----------



## daniel3507

Any reason for rotary over dual action? Im always worried about holograms with rotary.


----------



## jimbeckel

daniel3507 said:


> Any reason for rotary over dual action? Im always worried about holograms with rotary.


That was my first pass with the makita, had ordered a porter cable DA which I am quite pleased with. The porter cable leaves no marks and did a great job, the car really needed paint correction.


----------



## cglarsen

95mmrenegade said:


> cglarsen said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 95mmrenegade said:
> 
> 
> 
> I hated claying a car due to the time it took. Changing the process to using the foam cannon as a lubricant, you can speed around the car, one hand feeling for imperfections, one hand claying. I believe the product I use is Meguiars D156. I apply it weekly after your normal car wash and blow 95% dry. Your paint will be silky smooth guaranteed. I was originally using Ultimate quick wax and have switched to the D156. Initally I did half the hood with UQW and the other half with D156 and watching the water beading action over the course of 2 weeks, the D156 seemed to last longer. I have done this exact process on my Corvette, 911, Explorer, F-150, Audi and they all react the same way. Extremely pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> 
> Man, now you've got me looking into pressure washers and the Ego system. What kind of size/power do you run on the pressure washer with foam cannon?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I use an electric start ryobi from Home depot with a Subaru engine 3100psi. I can probably get by with less but it makes getting caked on mud off the truck with ease. My neighbor has an electric one, I will see which one he has. He likes his.
Click to expand...

Man, thanks for sharing your technique. I'm very pleased with the results on both of my vehicles. Love the meguiars quick wax in gallon size as I'm drying too. Power washer and foam cannon will be coming soon to make things even better. :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:


----------



## testwerke

Used to be very involved with detailing my car, especially growing up. Still have my Porter Cable 7274 buffer.

Recently paid for a gTechniq CSL and EXO ceramic coating. So worth it!


----------



## krusej23

Does anyone have a sun joe pressure washer? Just bought one and wondering what kind of accessories I should get. Looking to use it on truck, cement patio, and to thoroughly clean the bottom of my mower deck.


----------



## kds

What kind of lint-free microfiber cloth is everyone using, and where do you get it? I haven't really had the best luck with any that I've tried and this last batch of whatever I have is giving off crazy lint.


----------



## quattljl

@kds I'm using towels from The Rag Company. They are top notch.

It's also recommended (though I've never needed to do it) to wash your towels before using them for the 1st time to reduce any linting you may get.


----------



## kds

quattljl said:


> It's also recommended (though I've never needed to do it) to wash your towels before using them for the 1st time to reduce any linting you may get.


So to be honest with you... I have been using each towel as a one-time-use kind of deal. Maybe I was doing it wrong but whenever I washed microfiber towels, stuff would get stuck in them or they would get a little greasy even though I didn't use fabric softener. How do you wash yours?


----------



## quattljl

Microfiber is very grabby. You should only wash your microfiber towels with other, non-contaminated microfiber towels. Never mix microfiber and cottons. There should never be stuff getting stuck in them during a wash if you aren't mixing fabric types.

For me, I wash in hot water (make sure your water temp is below 140F) using a free and clear type soap and I'll add a cup of vinegar every couple washes to help remove polishes/product. Towels get dried on low heat setting for about 20 minutes tops. If they're still damp after that I let them air dry. No fabric softener or dryer sheets.


----------



## grasscorrection

Ceramic Coatings are a must. Sure I love washing the car, but when you add vacuuming, wiping down the inside and wheels, it's rather tiring. And I'm young!

I used to be big on the 2 step paint correction before applying a ceramic coating but for a daily driver you don't want to achieve 100% correction. As it wears down the paint more. But I'd urge others to use in replacement of a wax. But stressing not to skip on a thorough handwash, IPA wipedown (50/50 of Isopropyl alcohol and water - to remove any oils), and making sure it's dry for a day after applying the coating. Semi permanent isn't as long as you think. Plus people that apply their grandfather's wax seem to think waxing once a year is enough. I don't see waxes lasting well after 2-5 washes. I recommend waxing once every 2 months, but then you're touching your paint, that much more. Installing swirls into the paint. Ceramic coatings don't attract dust as much as a wax.

Cquartz UK coating is about $50 online for a 30ml bottle. You can do an SUV, wheels, and windows with less than half of the bottle.

If you're super lazy, then give it a good handwash, and use the spray and rinse called Hydro2. (Not affiliated)

People are willing to pay $12-20 a trip to wash their car, but in the sunlight there are a ton of swirls, missed marks, and nothing to prevent…..anything. How much was your car? How much time and money do you spend washing your car? Removing bugs from the bumper? Drying the car? Washing the car once a week can be daunting in the winters or heat of the summer. Miserable. Get a ceramic coating.


----------



## FATC1TY

Any tips of hard water spots?

Got back from the beach and cleaned truck up from the salt water, fish guts, spilled beer, and half ton of sand... not to mention bugs baked with 100 degree temps on black paint.

But the well water sprinkler system did a number to it. Used vinegar/water mix to try and scrub some and it helped but still annoying to see on it.


----------



## tcorbitt20

Washed my truck yesterday and applied McKee's 37 high def paint sealant. Really easy to apply and to buff after a few minutes. I highly recommend it.


----------



## 440mag

FATC1TY said:


> Any tips of hard water spots?


We've tried several products on our fiberglass waverunner, jet ski and ski boat (I'll likely have to edit this post several times to post links  )

Trying this now and we like it a lot! 
Boat Bling Hot Sauce Premium Hard Water Spot Remover w/High-Gloss Wax Sealants
https://www.amazon.com/Boat-Bling-HS-Premium-Remover/dp/B006GWVBQ8/ref=sr_1_44?gclid=EAIaIQobChMInczVlejK4gIVSVqGCh0XvANpEAAYASAAEgJ1wfD_BwE&hvadid=177572279724&hvdev=t&hvlocphy=9010194&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=17436500540960517857&hvtargid=kwd-31563866871&hydadcr=7282_9586051&keywords=water+spot+remover+for+glass&qid=1559479080&s=gateway&sr=8-44

Last year we tried this and, while it IS quite effective, it does tend to streak, requiring lots and lots of buffing with dry microfiber clothes (but, dang, it had the glossy black outboard on the wife's boat so shiny again that passing fisherman would comment about it! :lol: 
Ducky Water Spot Remover, 32-Ounce
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WNU02S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You "meet" some fascinating people and learn some intriguing info getting into forums for different pursuits and here are some samples from a discussion on dealing with water spots from a forum for pwc enthusiasts (http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=271168&page=2&highlight=Water+spots)

Specifically, "*Believe it or not, there is a real science to this. You have two options. You can dissolve the spots or mechanically remove them. Vinegar is a weak acid and willl work great on many spots.

But if you have sealed them up in wax, not so much. It also depends on what the spots are made of. If they are mostly calcium based vinegar will work. If they are sodium based, it will not.

My suggestion at this point would be to use a clay bar. Then wax and seal*."

And ... "*don't confuse sodium with sodium chloride. Certain deposits common in fresh water (depending on water source) are very hard to remove. Magnesium silicate is a nightmare for example. Sodium is also difficult to remove. Sodium is extremely soluble but once you get evaporation to driness, it sets up and is very hard to take off.

This is why you see so many people with very different experiences with water spots and product results.

Look at like this...

If the deposit is calcium carbonate based (and organic) a weak acid like vinegar will work great. If it's magnesium silicate, it won't work at all.

For those that are very anal, keep a spray bottle of distilled water on your ski. Put a few drops of jet dry in the bottle. You can even add a capful of vinegar. Every time you park, spray the machine down and you will never get a water spot again.

You can also keep a solution like this in a garden sprayer at home too and spray it when you get home.*"


----------



## bassadict69

Currently looking for some sort of quick detailer for my jet skis and ski boat...I will have to give that one a try!

Any recommendations for marine vinyl seats?


----------



## 440mag

bassadict69 said:


> Any recommendations for marine vinyl seats?


Hands DOWN, yes! We were turned onto this stuff last boating season and it rocks!
*303 (30313-CSR) UV Protectant Spray for Vinyl, Plastic, Rubber, Fiberglass, Leather & More - Dust and Dirt Repellant - Non-Toxic, Matte Finish, 32 Fl. oz.*
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KN0UOEE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We also are trying this , this Meguiar's product season but I detailed her boat last week and, already, I am thinking I will just use the following on my '73 Challengers vinyl top (I usually use only a soft cloth damp with water and maybe (maybe) a mild soap) and the interior of the wife's '66 GTO and just keep using the former (Aerospace 303) on her boats vinyl ... we'll see!

*Meguiar's M5716SP Marine/RV Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner & Protectant, 16 oz: *https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY4YJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There was a fascinating post on the Sea Ray Boat Owners' forums, by a longtime (manufacturing division) employee of Sea Ray about how mold really can't grow and certainly cannot "take root" in order to stain, CLEAN vinyl ... how bacteria's etc need some organic material to grow in - dried perspiration, airborne dirt, settled pollen, yadda, yadda ...

Point being, if I keep my marine vinyl truly CLEAN I won't see the challenges and travails so many of our fellow boaters do ...

So, now we make sure we give as much of the vinyl upholstery as we can (and most certainly all flat or horizontal surfaces, backrests, etc, a quick wipe down with the 303, upon returning to slip and putting the boat up on its lift. Working good so far as interior of the boat still looks showroom new (but, it's barely 2 years old so, that ain't sayin much, yet ...)


----------



## bassadict69

Thanks for that info...I just ordered some 303!


----------



## FATC1TY

I use 303 in our interior of our vehicles. Works well, doesn't have a weird smell, and isn't greasy.

Thanks for the hard water tips- I've used a vinegar solution and it's helped but didn't really get it all.


----------



## quattljl

440mag said:


> You "meet" some fascinating people and learn some intriguing info getting into forums for different pursuits and here are some samples from a discussion on dealing with water spots from a forum for pwc enthusiasts (http://greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=271168&page=2&highlight=Water+spots)
> 
> Specifically, "*Believe it or not, there is a real science to this. You have two options. You can dissolve the spots or mechanically remove them. Vinegar is a weak acid and willl work great on many spots.
> 
> But if you have sealed them up in wax, not so much. It also depends on what the spots are made of. If they are mostly calcium based vinegar will work. If they are sodium based, it will not.
> 
> My suggestion at this point would be to use a clay bar. Then wax and seal*."
> 
> And ... "*don't confuse sodium with sodium chloride. Certain deposits common in fresh water (depending on water source) are very hard to remove. Magnesium silicate is a nightmare for example. Sodium is also difficult to remove. Sodium is extremely soluble but once you get evaporation to driness, it sets up and is very hard to take off.
> 
> This is why you see so many people with very different experiences with water spots and product results.
> 
> Look at like this...
> 
> If the deposit is calcium carbonate based (and organic) a weak acid like vinegar will work great. If it's magnesium silicate, it won't work at all.
> 
> For those that are very anal, keep a spray bottle of distilled water on your ski. Put a few drops of jet dry in the bottle. You can even add a capful of vinegar. Every time you park, spray the machine down and you will never get a water spot again.
> 
> You can also keep a solution like this in a garden sprayer at home too and spray it when you get home.*"


Water spots are the bane of my existence. I have very hard well water and trees line my driveway so there is no escaping it. I've tried different washing and drying techniques and products, I've tried all the various "water spot removers", I've tried waxes, sealants, and coatings. But I still have water spots. The best thing I've done for combating water spots was buy a silver car that doesn't show defects that well lol.

If I read between the lines on the above statement, it sounds to me like there are essentially two types of mineral deposits that you typically run into: calcium based and sodium based. Calcium based deposits can be removed with acids or "water spot removers" but sodium based mineral deposits can't. Those can only be removed mechanically (i.e. compounding and polishing). Is that correct or am I assuming something I shouldn't?


----------



## dfw_pilot

Would access to a water softener help in the rinse process?


----------



## quattljl

dfw_pilot said:


> Would access to a water softener help in the rinse process?


If you're asking me, I've tried it. It helped some, but I would still get them. The only thing that will help is using DI water. Again, my driveway is under tree cover so every time it rains, I've got a fresh set of water spots. I've accepted theyll be part of my life until I move.


----------



## FlowRider

dfw_pilot said:


> Would access to a water softener help in the rinse process?


Actually, using water that has been softened through a water softener system helps out a lot, @dfw_pilot!

When I built my house, I added two water spigots (hose bibs) to the usual two the builder normally installed, so I would have a hose bib on each side of my house.

Two were plumbed off the main water line, so no softener. The other two, on the other side of the house, were plumbed in off the house plumbing, which was routed through after the water softener system, so I get water that has been softened through these two spigots/bibs. Makes washing the car much easier, and the finish looks much better.

You can still get water spots if you let water bead up on horizontal surfaces, but I just dry my vehicles with microfiber cloths.

It also makes the soap last a lot longer (you use less soap). I use Meguiar's Quik Dry, which detail waxes when you dry.

I only use Meguiar's product for my vehicles. To soap them up, I just use a garden chemical hose end sprayer made by Chapin. Costs $14, and works great for washing the cars. I use a separate longer hose for the rinse, hooked to one of the softener connected hose bibs,

Some of my vehicles have wheels that are too wide to go through a car wash that uses tracks to pull the cars through....

Big ol' meats - it can scratch the rims. Seen a lot of cars who failed to read the owner's manual and ruined their rims...!

We have very hard water. I also used tankless hot water heaters, and they require a water softener or it voids the warranty. 

The best part is, you get no calcium deposits or buildup in your fixtures, appliances, toilets, showers, etc. Your clothes last longer because you use less soap and the water has fewer gritty minerals. :ugeek: 

And when you shower, the water makes you feel as slick as a Mississippi catfish! Woo pow! Catfish slick, yeah! :lol:


----------



## dfw_pilot

Yes, two of my outdoor spigots run softened water and it's great.


----------



## FlowRider

Water softener system. The thing runs itself, all you do is add salt when it gets low....


----------



## FlowRider

Here is the hose end sprayer I use, filled with Meguiar's Gold Car Wash Soap.

There is a reducing jet you can insert to reduce the flow of liquids from your fluid reservoir. Makes the soap dispense really smoothly.

I saw those foam cannons that Chemical Brothers hype up, but that is like $90 plus shipping. Looks cool when you snow foam your car, but I don't need that much soap on anything I wash, it just gets wasted as you sling it off onto the driveway.

This sprayer puts down a nice bubbly layer, and you wash the car, and hose it off, no soapy snow, but it works just fine.

And the money I saved buys a heck of a lot of car wash soap...ask me how I know! :nod:


----------



## FlowRider

Here is a short video about the water softener system I opted for. Some of the best money I have ever spent, seriously....

And it saves me hours not having to correct water spot stains on my vehicles. (It does a real number on glassware, too...).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=2&v=1uDZgVk1img


----------



## krusej23

Disappointed in my sun joe 2030 today. I got it to clean up the patios and other things around the house but was hoping I could use it to wash the truck as a bonus. Bought a foam cannon for it and today it did okay but not well enough to keep using it for that. There goes the hope of being able to clean the truck in my driveway.


----------



## Shindoman

krusej23 said:


> Disappointed in my sun joe 2030 today. I got it to clean up the patios and other things around the house but was hoping I could use it to wash the truck as a bonus. Bought a foam cannon for it and today it did okay but not well enough to keep using it for that. There goes the hope of being able to clean the truck in my driveway.


Most electric pressure washers just don't have the power to run a foam cannon well.


----------



## krusej23

Shindoman said:


> krusej23 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Disappointed in my sun joe 2030 today. I got it to clean up the patios and other things around the house but was hoping I could use it to wash the truck as a bonus. Bought a foam cannon for it and today it did okay but not well enough to keep using it for that. There goes the hope of being able to clean the truck in my driveway.
> 
> 
> 
> Most electric pressure washers just don't have the power to run a foam cannon well.
Click to expand...

It actually ran the foam cannon perfectly but rinsing it off was the problem.


----------



## Shindoman

Why was rinsing off a problem?


----------



## PNW_George

I had CQuartz FINEST applied to my wife's white SUV strait from the dealer after picking it up. I didn't let the dealer detail it at all. I then had my 10-year-old black car prepped and had CQuartz FINEST applied to it.

I maintain them with the two-bucket wash and rinse system, or should I say 4 bucket because I start over after washing the wheels. Before washing I knock as much dirt as I can off with the pressure washer, cover it with foam from the soap cannon, let it sit for 5 minutes or so, rinse and then begin the wash with a mitt on each hand. Sometimes I will hit it again with the soap cannon if I have some left but try to wash ¼ of the car at a time and then rinse so the soap doesn't dry on the car.

I use a Metro MasterBlaster blower to push most of the water off and get inside all the nooks and cranies and finish up with some waffle towels and micro fiber cloths.

I haven't done anything special to the interiors as they stay pretty clean but did buy some leather cleaner/conditioner to treat my 2009 if I ever get around to it.

I also have a 2000 Landcruser that is parked outside that has paint you would expect for a 20 year old, outside parked car. I do have some clay bars and wax I may eventually use to clean it up a bit but haven't found the motivation. It is a great dog and dirty work truck and I will never get rid of it.

Kranzle Quadro 499 TST Pressure Washer

Foam Cannon, Foam Lance I think.

Metro MasterBlaster MB-3CD Industrial Dryer and Blower System.

Usually use CarPro cleaning products.


----------



## Shindoman

@PNW_George is the Kranzle pressure washer worth what they cost? I'm looking at doing a built in one with a hose reel.


----------



## PNW_George

Shindoman said:


> @PNW_George is the Kranzle pressure washer worth what they cost? I'm looking at doing a built in one with a hose reel.


@Shindoman Worth it is of course personal and relative but I have been very happy with mine. I had to add a 220 circuit and get a heavy duty, fairly long extension cord because in addition to using it to clean our vehicles, I use it to clean my back patio, driveway, steps, even my tile roof although that is getting a bit too dangerous for me.

It has been everything I had hoped for. The neighborhood had pitched in for a gasoline powered pressure washer I have access to but it is too powerful to wash cars and I would be afraid to use it on my stamped concrete patio for the same reason. 1900 psi is plenty for my needs.


----------



## Shindoman

My 16 yr old son reorganized our detailing cabinet. Did a great job! Def has a touch of his dads ocd.


----------



## cglarsen

@Shindoman wow, and i thought I'm ocd with my car cleaning supplies. That's fabulous.


----------



## llO0DQLE

@Shindoman which vacuum is that? Is it better than a regular household vacuum? I've been using a regular house vacuum and it doesn't seem to be strong enough to really suck dug in crap in the carpet or stuff in crevices.


----------



## Shindoman

@llO0DQLE that's a Metrovac vacuum. Way better than a household vacuum.

https://metrovac.com/products/vac-n-blo-pro


----------



## llO0DQLE

Shindoman said:


> @llO0DQLE that's a Metrovac vacuum. Way better than a household vacuum.
> 
> https://metrovac.com/products/vac-n-blo-pro


Thanks!


----------



## TroyScherer

How to care for your mower.


----------



## 440mag

cglarsen said:


> @Shindoman wow, and i thought I'm ocd with my car cleaning supplies. That's fabulous.


+1 ... wow ... just wow! :thumbup:


----------



## 440mag

Have a question for the brain-trust here: anyone know of a really top-notch LOOSE COTTON BUFFING WHEEL - ALREADY MOUNTED ON A 1/4" SPINDLE (so I can easily secure it into my handheld drill's chuck)?

Not using it on any car; I need this to buff some acrylic. I am lost trying to parse through options via Amazon and ebay, as soon as I think I've found one, reading reviews reveals things like off center arbor holes, etc.

Just thought I'd ask here as the depth of knowledge and experience here is not to be underestimated!

*EDIT: I got a tip to check out PJ Tools and wound up getting several of their pre-mounted 4" loose cotton buffing wheels. Shipping is flat rate so, shipping was same for 5 items as it would've been for one (actually a better deal than their listings on Amazon and eBay, etc.)*

Everyone have a safe and Happy 4th o' July! :thumbup:


----------



## DesertLawn

I love detailing even though I don't have as much time for it as I used to. I've tried quite a few different products but my favorite is Adam's Polishes. I've been wowed by just about every Adam's product I've used. They're pretty pricey but often run 10-20% off sales (currently running a 4th of July sale). Their carpet and upholstery cleaner is amazing and I really like their mystery boxes/buckets.

adamspolishes.com


----------



## krusej23

Shindoman said:


> Why was rinsing off a problem?


I don't think it has enough gom to push all of the soap off properly. It did an okay job but not what a pressure washer at a manual car wash has.


----------



## zeus201

Has anyone here laid down their own PPF? Really want to protect wife's car with some film to help with paint protection.


----------



## daniel3507

zeus201 said:


> Has anyone here laid down their own PPF? Really want to protect wife's car with some film to help with paint protection.


I struggle enough with plastic wrap in the kitchen. No way I would take on a project like that.


----------



## FlowRider

daniel3507 said:


> zeus201 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone here laid down their own PPF? Really want to protect wife's car with some film to help with paint protection.
> 
> 
> 
> *I struggle enough with plastic wrap in the kitchen. No way I would take on a project like that.*
Click to expand...

 :rofl:


----------



## WDE46

With winter/fall coming up I want to mention Optimum No Rinse as the best solution for washes in the cold. I actually use it year round now because it is 100x better than washing a car under the sun battling the drying panels and water spots. I powerwash the crud off, pull into the garage, and wash it. In the winter, fill the bucket with warm water and keep your hands warm in your garage!

IT ACTUALLY WORKS. It looks sketchy but it's amazing. 1 cap full is 0.5 oz and you just use a cap per gallon and just a couple gallons in a bucket (I use that to fill a small sprayer). Lasts forever!

get yourself one of these too:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BX4VXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This video shows it off. I use a different method with microfibers, bucket with ONR, and a sprayer with ONR. The Big Red Sponge is supposed to be a good method too.








zeus201 said:


> Has anyone here laid down their own PPF? Really want to protect wife's car with some film to help with paint protection.


PPF really is something to be left to a pro. It just looks like it takes too much practice. Sure you can probably get close to pro results but it'll take you forever and you'll probably waste a lot of film with screw ups. This is a buy once, cry once kind of thing.


----------



## daniel3507

ONR is great stuff. I use it as clay lube too.


----------



## JollyGreen

Anyone have recommendations for a garage wall mount vacuum? I see a few on amazon but some reviews say suction is very weak. I'm looking to have a 30' hose so I can use it for both car cleaning and garage cleaning.


----------



## daniel3507

JollyGreen said:


> Anyone have recommendations for a garage wall mount vacuum? I see a few on amazon but some reviews say suction is very weak. I'm looking to have a 30' hose so I can use it for both car cleaning and garage cleaning.


No personal experience with it but I've heard good things about the Metro Master Blaster


----------



## tommyboy

I have the "GUV" by Hoover and like it. Not sure if it's still available though.


----------



## beermuda

WDE46 said:


> With winter/fall coming up I want to mention Optimum No Rinse as the best solution for washes in the cold. I actually use it year round now because it is 100x better than washing a car under the sun battling the drying panels and water spots. I powerwash the crud off, pull into the garage, and wash it. In the winter, fill the bucket with warm water and keep your hands warm in your garage!
> 
> IT ACTUALLY WORKS. It looks sketchy but it's amazing. 1 cap full is 0.5 oz and you just use a cap per gallon and just a couple gallons in a bucket (I use that to fill a small sprayer). Lasts forever!
> 
> get yourself one of these too:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BX4VXI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> 
> This video shows it off. I use a different method with microfibers, bucket with ONR, and a sprayer with ONR. The Big Red Sponge is supposed to be a good method too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> zeus201 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone here laid down their own PPF? Really want to protect wife's car with some film to help with paint protection.
> 
> 
> 
> PPF really is something to be left to a pro. It just looks like it takes too much practice. Sure you can probably get close to pro results but it'll take you forever and you'll probably waste a lot of film with screw ups. This is a buy once, cry once kind of thing.
Click to expand...

+1 on the ONR. I switched to ONR about 6 years ago and I'd never go back to "regular" car washing for all the tea in China.

A really good method I learned from the Optimum guys is wash a panel with ONR, then hit it with a single spray of Optimum Car Wax before you dry. It works great as a drying aid and of course you're also waxing as you go. Works a treat.

In fact, all of OPT's products are fantastic. Optimum Power Clean will take grease stains off of concrete and is great on bird bombs as well as just general household grime if you need a powerful detergent.


----------



## OnyxsLawn

Does anyone else get streaking like this on their hood? Particularly after waxing and usually goes away with a wash. Doesn't go away with a spray detailer and wipe down.


----------



## Mightyquinn

OnyxsLawn said:


> Does anyone else get streaking like this on their hood? Particularly after waxing and usually goes away with a wash. Doesn't go away with a spray detailer and wipe down.


I get that occasionally too but I think it's either from waxing right after I wash the vehicle so there is moisture trapped in the paint still or it could be from not letting the wax setup long enough before you remove it. If I plan on waxing my car, I will usually try and wash it the night before so that the paint has time to dry.


----------



## OnyxsLawn

@Mightyquinn That's probably it. I usually wash, dry, then immediately wax. I washed it again last night and it looks great now.


----------



## g-man

@Babameca


----------



## Babameca

@g-man Thanks man!


----------



## Babameca

Does lawn care often come with car detailing? :lol:
Anyhow, I love both, being probably a tad more knowledgeable with paint correction.
Here are a few 'jobs' from the last 12 months.
My wifes van at 100k miles. Dual stage polish, Cquartz 3.0 dual layer. 40h worth of work.



One 10h day job for a friend. Full decon, single stage correction, light ceramic coating on.





Trashed Subaru WRX. 1 day job. Full decon, 1st stage polish on deep scratches, full car 2nd stage. Ceramic coating.





My ride. Full ceramic off the door. Full front PPF. Decon every spring and light ceramic applied. 3 years old, 60k miles, driven all winter long. Voila. anything I can help with, let me know.


----------



## Trent161

@Babameca Nice work! What is your regular or weekly routine to keep the Audi on point?


----------



## Babameca

@Trent161 Excluding this year ( I did not dirve much and car sleeps in the garage), 2 bucket wash (Adam's shampoo, foam gun, sheep skin glove). Leaf blower dried (easy when coated). I may (or may not based on mood) apply 50/50 Tacsystem coating toper/detailer diluted 1:4 with water. Carpro HydrO2/Reload is great too.
Vaccum all interior monthly clean steering wheel (it is alcantara), all surfaces with Carpro inside and all leather with Leatherique. Looks better than new after this regiment.
Oh, wheels, and under the fenders with appropriate wheel cleaner (I use Meguiar's no acid wheel cleaner) on every other wash.
I buy gallon size of everything, so it becomes pretty affordable.


----------



## FlowRider

Babameca said:


> I buy gallon size of everything, so it becomes pretty affordable.


Babameca, where do you purchase your detailing supplies? I am curious as to vendors....

Do you have a background or experience in car detailing, or are you self taught?

Your wife's van, that WRX and your Audi look showroom new. Very impressive results!

I do my own detailing, mostly with Meguiar's products, so looking for other quality options. Thanks!


----------



## Babameca

@FlowRider I live in Canada and have a Calgary based online store shipping to me. They have more than ...I can afford :lol:
Meg is great, but look for the pro line. Not the ones sold in Walmart.
Other serious player these days are: CarPro, Adam's, Geyon, Tacsystem.
There us a retailer in OH that is very active on YT too. You may try to start there:
https://www.esotericdetail.com/auto-detailing-products/
I am a 100% DYI. Learned on YT, bought the finest polishers on Earth (mainly use Rupes) and...started.


----------



## FlowRider

Thanks again, @Babameca ! I'll check those options out, for sure!

I am going to have to up my game, I realize now....

I buy all my DIY auto detailing stuff at WalMart.... :dumb:


----------



## Trent161

Babameca said:


> @Trent161 Excluding this year ( I did not dirve much and car sleeps in the garage), 2 bucket wash (Adam's shampoo, foam gun, sheep skin glove). Leaf blower dried (easy when coated). I may (or may not based on mood) apply 50/50 Tacsystem coating toper/detailer diluted 1:4 with water. Carpro HydrO2/Reload is great too.
> Vaccum all interior monthly clean steering wheel (it is alcantara), all surfaces with Carpro inside and all leather with Leatherique. Looks better than new after this regiment.
> Oh, wheels, and under the fenders with appropriate wheel cleaner (I use Meguiar's no acid wheel cleaner) on every other wash.
> I buy gallon size of everything, so it becomes pretty affordable.


Thanks for sharing. The car detailing/ cleaning bug has started at my house this year with the yard bug. Lol


----------



## SOLARSUPLEX

@Babameca Lovely RS. I drive a B8 S4 and the RS3 is something i've been trying to convince myself i don't need. Have you done anything for additional power?


----------



## Babameca

@SOLARSUPLEX I had an S4. Got stolen 2 years in. I am all stock. The RS is more 'brutal'. If you mainly drive Highway and/or looking for comfort, the S4 is the choice. On the other hand, the RS is lighter (I hated how S4 was diving nose and understeering), stiffer and more composed when pushed in corners. And the sound...no comparison. I have the sport exhaust from Audi.


----------



## SOLARSUPLEX

@Babameca I know what you mean about nose dive... The sport dif does help in the corners but its not a small light chassis by any means. Im heavily leaning toward an f80 m3 as my next vehicle whenever that might be.


----------



## Babameca

@SOLARSUPLEX 3 things kept me away from M2 competition (M3 is way off my budget):
- I need 4 doors
- I live in Canada, while RWD is so much more fun, it is not 5 months a year here.
- I am Android user


----------



## testwerke

I did gtechniq CSL and EXO ceramic coating on both the family vehicles earlier this year. It was much nicer getting to detail my wife's car on the new epoxy floor.


----------



## Trent161

testwerke said:


> I did gtechniq CSL and EXO ceramic coating on both the family vehicles earlier this year. It was much nicer getting to detail my wife's car on the new epoxy floor.


Very nice!


----------



## SGrabs33

Just got a Karcher today. Had fun with the foam cannon.


----------



## Shindoman

SGrabs33 said:


> Just got a Karcher today. Had fun with the foam cannon.


Foam Cannon gets a workout at our place. 4 cars and an rv. They work great.


----------



## SGrabs33

Shindoman said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just got a Karcher today. Had fun with the foam cannon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Foam Cannon gets a workout at our place. 4 cars and an rv. They work great.
Click to expand...

Nice! I figured a cheap electric washer would get a good workout for quick jobs around the house. Just want to wall mount it now and get 100ft hose so I don't have to carry it around everywhere. Already have the eley with hose mounted.


----------



## TroyScherer

No pictures.

But I spent the past Labor Day weekend polishing the wife`s new Black Pearl VW GLI. This was a "Lemon Law" replacement, so I got them to do the basic PPI but I did all the "unwrapping". That worked out for me since the paint was as good as I could hope for.

Used CarPro Essence with my Rupes 15es and a Yellow Finishing Pad. The gloss and pearl pop was very nice.

The coating of choice was CarPro CQUK 3.0 (2-Layers) and then I followed up with 1-Layer of CarPro CQ TiO2. 
So 3 full layers of coating.

I was able to let the car sit outside in the sun and in the garage overnight. 
The next day after another full day of curing and not driving it I followed up with Reload.


----------



## Shindoman

SGrabs33 said:


> Shindoman said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just got a Karcher today. Had fun with the foam cannon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Foam Cannon gets a workout at our place. 4 cars and an rv. They work great.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Nice! I figured a cheap electric washer would get a good workout for quick jobs around the house. Just want to wall mount it now and get 100ft hose so I don't have to carry it around everywhere. Already have the eley with hose mounted.
Click to expand...

That's what I did. Mounted my Kranzle electric in a cabinet with a hose reel beside it. No need to drag out a big noisy gas beast anymore.


----------



## SGrabs33

@Shindoman yep, I've seen your sweet set up before.

Is it a cox reel and cobrajet hose? Would love to find a cheaper alternative that still has good quality. Nothing super cheap.


----------



## Ware

SGrabs33 said:


> @Shindoman yep, I've seen your sweet set up before.
> 
> Is it a cox reel and cobrajet hose? Would love to find a cheaper alternative that still has good quality. Nothing super cheap.


I got the Kranzle for my new house. I just need to finalize where I'm going to put it and order the Cox reel.


----------



## SGrabs33

:evil:


Ware said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Shindoman yep, I've seen your sweet set up before.
> 
> Is it a cox reel and cobrajet hose? Would love to find a cheaper alternative that still has good quality. Nothing super cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> I got the Kranzle for my new house. I just need to finalize where I'm going to put it and order the Cox reel.
Click to expand...

Jealous! Just couldn't justify that one yet. Maybe if I use the Karcher for a few years and actually use it more than I think.


----------



## testwerke

I have the Comet. Absolutely love having it wall mounted and a built-in reel.


----------



## Ware

@SGrabs33 I really think having it mounted/plumbed and ready to use at any time will increase my usage exponentially.


----------



## SGrabs33

Ware said:


> @SGrabs33 I really think having it mounted/plumbed and ready to use at any time will increase my usage exponentially.


Fully agree. Just gotta figure out what orientation to go with. Already have the Eley mounted.



Very nice @testwerke


----------



## Mightyquinn

Ware said:


> SGrabs33 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @Shindoman yep, I've seen your sweet set up before.
> 
> Is it a cox reel and cobrajet hose? Would love to find a cheaper alternative that still has good quality. Nothing super cheap.
> 
> 
> 
> I got the Kranzle for my new house. I just need to finalize where I'm going to put it and order the Cox reel.
Click to expand...

I assume you got the Kranzle from OG?

I have the OG setup minus the Kranzle and the Water Filters. Right now I am using the same Karcher as @SGrabs33 and just have an Eley quick connect on the end to plug the hose into it when I need it. I ended up getting the Cox Reel from Zoro.com for $131 delivered as I had a 15% off coupon from them. They will sometimes send you a coupon if you leave something in your cart long enough  The hose and everything else I bought from Obsessed Garage.

The Karcher seems to get the job done but I really want to upgrade to the Kranzle eventually. This whole setup makes cleaning the cars so much easier and more enjoyable. It also makes cleaning the Baroness way easier and does a better job too!!! I also purchase the EGO 650CFM blower to dry the cars with as I was using my Stihl backpack blower which got the job done quite well be was harder to maneuver with it being a backpack. I like the EGO just to have to blow grass clippings after mowing, makes it fast and easy.


----------



## Jgourley124

If anyone is interested in a karcher promo code... pulpmx gives you 10-15% off I believe.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Here is my setup. I just have to run the water hose to the Karcher and I'm basically ready to go. The Eley hose reel sits basically right outside the garage door.


----------



## Ware

Mightyquinn said:


> Here is my setup. I just have to run the water hose to the Karcher and I'm basically ready to go. The Eley hose reel sits basically right outside the garage door.


Nice! You even got the OG hose plug! Is that the same Cox reel he sells? If so, I need to hit you up for the part number. :thumbup:


----------



## Mightyquinn

Yes it is and here's the link Cox 112-3-100 Hose Reel.

Just FYI, after I mentioned the 15% discount that Zoro gives out occasionally, I got an email with one shortly after that and I didn't have anything in my cart, I just signed into my account.

Oh yeah, the OG hose plug is a must as it keeps water from going all over the place when you roll up the hose.


----------



## Ware

Mightyquinn said:


> Yes it is and here's the link Cox 112-3-100 Hose Reel.
> 
> Just FYI, after I mentioned the 15% discount that Zoro gives out occasionally, I got an email with one shortly after that and I didn't have anything in my cart, I just signed into my account.
> 
> Oh yeah, the OG hose plug is a must as it keeps water from going all over the place when you roll up the hose.


Nice. It looks like the only difference is the brass vs stainless swivel on the OG offering.

I bet this is the one he's selling.


----------



## Mightyquinn

Yeah, he wasn't offering the stainless steel option when I bought mine.

I took this screen shot directly from the OG website.


----------



## Baretta

Can anyone recommend a good quality tire, wheel and wheel surface brushes? Looking to get a Tuf Shine tire brush or similar.


----------



## TroyScherer

Baretta said:


> Can anyone recommend a good quality tire, wheel and wheel surface brushes? Looking to get a Tuf Shine tire brush or similar.



The Tuf Shine brush is my top choice for tires on regular and low profiles. For my Chevy Colorado it works well but I went ahead and did the tire coating as well to make it easier to clean an then I am just using a larger softer brush.

I have the 2 wheel and fender brushes of the mothers set. I do like them for normal use. 
https://www.autogeek.net/mothers-tire-wheel-well-brush-kit.html

My favorite wheel brush is the "Wheel Woolies Boar's Hair Wheel Brush". When soaked in warm water a little it becomes super soft and gentle for cleaning really nice and cared for wheels. I wouldn't plan on this being to clean a mud caked unkempt set of wheels. 
https://www.autogeek.net/best-wheel-cleaning-brush.html

For wheel barrels and getting into those hard to reach areas I like the "speed master" style brushes. Again, I soak them in water a little before use to soften them up. 
https://www.autogeek.net/daytona-speed-master-brushes.html


----------



## Baretta

Thanks @TroyScherer! I was looking at those and the EZ detail brush.

https://www.autoobsessed.com/collections/exterior-1/products/ez-detail-brush-large-big-ez-wheel-brush

Ran in to this looking at products.


----------



## quattljl

TroyScherer said:


> The Tuf Shine brush is my top choice for tires on regular and low profiles. For my Chevy Colorado it works well but I went ahead and did the tire coating as well to make it easier to clean an then I am just using a larger softer brush.
> 
> I have the 2 wheel and fender brushes of the mothers set. I do like them for normal use.
> https://www.autogeek.net/mothers-tire-wheel-well-brush-kit.html
> 
> My favorite wheel brush is the "Wheel Woolies Boar's Hair Wheel Brush". When soaked in warm water a little it becomes super soft and gentle for cleaning really nice and cared for wheels. I wouldn't plan on this being to clean a mud caked unkempt set of wheels.
> https://www.autogeek.net/best-wheel-cleaning-brush.html
> 
> For wheel barrels and getting into those hard to reach areas I like the "speed master" style brushes. Again, I soak them in water a little before use to soften them up.
> https://www.autogeek.net/daytona-speed-master-brushes.html


Excellent recommendations!

I have a long handled flag-tip brush from the parts store that, in my less experienced years, I used on wheels, tires, fender wells, and lower body panels. Now that I know better it is strictly used for wheel wells now.

For wheels, I use a short handled flag-tipped brush. For intricate areas and wheel barrels I have a 3 or 4 piece wheel woolie set that's ok. I think I would like your speed master brushes better.

For tires, I use this brush from The Rag Company. They have since come out with this tire brush, which they say has slightly softer bristles. Either one would be a great choice, honestly.


----------



## TroyScherer

Baretta said:


> I was looking at those and the EZ detail brush.



@Baretta

Ya. The *Speed Master* and *EZ detail brush* are basically the same just different colors. I have the large and small version of these.

I do also have this version of the *EZ detail brush* and like it because the handle and stem are a little thicker molded plastic so I don't worry about the wire poking anything I do with the regular. The draw back is it doesn't fir into really tight spaces quite as well. So I have both version.

https://www.autoobsessed.com/collec...products/ez-detail-brush-go-go-ez-wheel-brush


----------



## Baretta

@TroyScherer @quattljl

Thanks for sharing. I ended up going with brushes from Auto Obsessed. Tire stiff, wheel, 20" wheel well, EZ Detail and a Detail Factory.

Just started getting my feet wet in all this as about a week ago. I'm about 20 items in and pretty much all for exterior. Yikes!

I'm using The Rag Company towels. Just have some waffle weave for glass and Double Twisteress for drying so far.


----------



## Baretta

Exterior
(Wash)Adam's Mega Foam (occassionally), Adam's Shampoo and ONR.

(Wheels/Tires) P&S Brake Buster, Super Clean diluted optional for tires. CarPro Perl and CG VRP for dressing.

(Chrome) Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish

(Protectants) Turtle Wax Hybrid Ceramic, P&S Bead Maker and Gyeon Wet Coat

(Misc.) CarPro Iron X

(Glass) Invisible Glass and RainX.

Interior
(All purpose cleaner) P&S Xpress and CarPro Multi X

(Leather) Colourlock C&C

(Protectant) 303 Aerospace, 303 Fabric Guard.


----------



## jabopy

I'm very happy with the new look on our 15+ year old Land Rover.

Amy took two days detailing.


----------



## ColeLawn

I do it.

Favorite products: Collinite 476s, Beadmaker, Lexol #2, Simple Green at 1:10, and Meg's Non-Acid W&T cleaner, and Iron-X.

Collinite 476s + Beadmaker is my go-to LSP.


----------



## Baretta

How do you deal with calcium streaks?


----------



## TroyScherer

Baretta said:


> How do you deal with calcium streaks?



I would start with a detail spray or a water spot remover. Using some Vinegar might actually break it down and remove it.

If you need a water spot remover you could also try a light finishing polish by hand as that should remove it as well.


----------



## Cluelessone

Wow, everyone! I am learning a ton, thanks for this thread! I like my vehicles pretty clean but you guys take it to a new level. How awesome!

I have a large pickup that is a real B to keep nice (clay bar and wax = can't use my arms for a few days). It is a truck I use regularly in harsh conditions, and understand that it won't be pretty all the time. I pull big trailers and messy payloads. I am also 5'0" and can walk under my mirror without ducking. I intentionally use no tire shine - I'm on gravel roads too much to make it worth it.

I have some questions for you folks far more knowledgeable than I am!

1) Clay bar/wax. My god, clay barring this thing is something I dread every year. Any tips to make it easier and/or faster? Wax isn't bad but I've always been chicken on buffers, I do everything by hand at the moment - recommendations (and mental soothing) for buffers that won't make me pee myself when I go to use them?

2) Wheel cleaning. With my tiny hands, I can normally get to the inside nooks and crannies but around the calipers it gets difficult. Good brushes to use?

3) I am ignorant to ceramic coatings. Can someone give me a quick overview, or a good source to read through? Recommendations on affordable coatings?

4) Foam cannon. Explain this to me, or a good source to read?

Truck is a 2012 6.7L Cummins. Deleted and tuned, 5" TBE, FTE resonator, onboard air (air bags, train horn [used sparingly, only when the 33' trailer is on], chuck), and I'm sure a bunch of other things - my drivers seat more closely resembles an airplane cockpit. Only ever worked on, tuned, or washed by yours truly, so all it's good and bad points are mine to own!

Not worried about the plates being visible, seeing as how some jerk in Florida stole the number anyways - so many tollway tickets... and I'm standing in the second picture. See me yet? :lol:


----------



## Baretta

I'm only 3 months into learning this myself so there's far more knowledgeable people here than I but I'll share my two cents. I got hooked watching a Youtuber "Pan The Organizer". I blame him for all my spending thus far but I'm really am enjoying my new passion keeping my new purchase shiny and clean. Now looking at the polishing side so more $$$. Check him out. He has videos that relate to your questions below. For polishing, also check out Autogeek and Ammo NYC.



Cluelessone said:


> Wow, everyone! I am learning a ton, thanks for this thread! I like my vehicles pretty clean but you guys take it to a new level. How awesome!
> 
> I have a large pickup that is a real B to keep nice (clay bar and wax = can't use my arms for a few days). It is a truck I use regularly in harsh conditions, and understand that it won't be pretty all the time. I pull big trailers and messy payloads. I am also 5'0" and can walk under my mirror without ducking. I intentionally use no tire shine - I'm on gravel roads too much to make it worth it.
> 
> I have some questions for you folks far more knowledgeable than I am!
> 
> 1) Clay bar/wax. My god, clay barring this thing is something I dread every year. Any tips to make it easier and/or faster? Wax isn't bad but I've always been chicken on buffers, I do everything by hand at the moment - recommendations (and mental soothing) for buffers that won't make me pee myself when I go to use them?
> 
> There are other options to claying. I haven't tried it yet but I'm going to use a nanoskin autoscrub. I'm a little nervous trying the polisher as well. Maybe try practicing on the wife's car first.  Just for waxing though looks easy enough focusing on getting an even coat.
> 
> 2) Wheel cleaning. With my tiny hands, I can normally get to the inside nooks and crannies but around the calipers it gets difficult. Good brushes to use?
> 
> EZ detail brush large or small. Speedmaster or wheel woolies.
> 
> 3) I am ignorant to ceramic coatings. Can someone give me a quick overview, or a good source to read through? Recommendations on affordable coatings?
> 
> There's lots of them out there. PTO does a bunch of reviews on different brands and shows how to apply them. I'm just going to start off with Turtle Wax Hybrid ceramic spray coating. Spray on and buff off method. It's only good for 6 to 12 months. I'm going to use Bead Maker as a topper/drying aid. The gloss is supposedly killer.
> 
> 4) Foam cannon. Explain this to me, or a good source to read?
> 
> Just like going through a car wash it suds your car. You can rinse off after a few minutes or use it as a lube with your wash mitt and additional car shampoo. I think its main purpose is to help lift the dirt off the paint. I use the one that attaches to a PW. Put the leftover soap in the wash bucket. Pending on which wheel cleaner you use you can use it to spray on your wheels as well.
> 
> Truck is a 2012 6.7L Cummins. Deleted and tuned, 5" TBE, FTE resonator, onboard air (air bags, train horn [used sparingly, only when the 33' trailer is on], chuck), and I'm sure a bunch of other things - my drivers seat more closely resembles an airplane cockpit. Only ever worked on, tuned, or washed by yours truly, so all it's good and bad points are mine to own!
> 
> Not worried about the plates being visible, seeing as how some jerk in Florida stole the number anyways - so many tollway tickets... and I'm standing in the second picture. See me yet? :lol:


----------



## quattljl

@Cluelessone several years ago I went down the rabbit hole of detailing because I had bought a full size, crew cab pickup and it was taking FOREVER to wash. So I definitely know how you feel trying to keep your mega truck clean. As to your points below:

1. I have used the Nanoskin autoscrub sponges and that was a game changer. Claying a car was SO much easier and quicker, and as a result more enjoyable. I recently bought a clay towel but haven't had a chance to try it yet.

As for wax, my recommendation is to find a quality spray wax to replace the liquid or paste wax you're using now. The old "wax on, wax off" method is outdated imo. I personally use Optimum Car Wax. I actually prefer it over a sealant or coating due to the superior gloss and slickness it provides, even though it doesn't last as long as the other two.

These two things alone will save your arms when claying or waxing that behemoth lol.

2. For wheel cleaning, there are lots of companies that make/sell brushes to help get in all the nooks and crannies. Check out AutoGeek or even Amazon for resources.

3. Coatings have a couple main benefits: 1)they last longer than wax or sealants, 2) they make the surface very hydrophobic, which makes water fly right off and also makes the vehicle easier to clean, 3) it varies by manufacturer but coatings do also add gloss and depth to the paint.

The two main downsides to coatings are the amount of prep work involved and susceptibility to water spots. Coatings need clean paint to bond properly, so the prep work is key for a successful coating job. Wash, clay, one step polish, and prep wipe is the absolute minimum before putting on a quality coating. The ability to make the surface super hydrophobic and have water bead up (which everyone seems to love looking at) is the same reason coatings are susceptible to water spotting. Some coatings are better than others when it comes to this but all coatings will be susceptible. Waxes, and to a lesser extent sealants, tend to sheet water rather than bead so water spotting is less of an issue.

4. Foam cannons. I don't have one and I've never used one so I can't give any advice here. I strictly use rinseless washes as my preferred method. The idea behind foam cannons, though, is that the foam provides a gentle scrubbing action while the soap emulsifies the dirt. Depending on how dirty the vehicle is, you either rinse and then wash like normal or you can continue the wash process without rinsing after the foam has had a couple minutes to work.


----------



## Cluelessone

@quattljl Thank you for all the tips. I am using a Meguiar's paste wax - I'll give a spray wax a try. I do love the look of beading water, but after getting water spots off my mother's Corvette (omg it was awful) I really don't want a repeat experience when I can't reach all the paint without a stepladder anyways.

What is a rinseless wash? Does it work when there is actual grime on the paint? When it's horse show season, the truck is on the go too much to be washed regularly so has an actual layer of dirt and grime.


----------



## Cluelessone

@Baretta

Thank you for the tips! Unless you're referencing your own wife, I am a female myself and don't hit from that side of the plate lol. I could give a whirl on my beater though (Jeep Renegade). The truck doesn't move unless it's hauling - 1 truck tire = 4 Jeep tires haha

I've heard good things about the Turtle Wax ceramic stuff - bang for buck wise. I don't know if I'm going to go that route, but if I do that's what I'll try! I'm going to look into those brushes now, thanks!


----------



## Baretta

@Cluelessone

Oops! Clearly I couldn't spot you in the photo. ardon:


----------



## quattljl

Cluelessone said:


> What is a rinseless wash? Does it work when there is actual grime on the paint? When it's horse show season, the truck is on the go too much to be washed regularly so has an actual layer of dirt and grime.


Rinseless washing is a process that allows you to wash a vehicle without having to rinse the soap off afterwards (because you aren't using soap). You're able to go directly from washing to drying. You would still pre-rinse or pressure wash any dirt build up off the vehicle before washing (if needed), but after you would either pre-soak with your rinseless solution or immediately begin washing (depends on how dirty and caked on the crud is). For vehicles that are just dirty from driving, it works really well. If there's a lot of mud or salt build up, it may not be the best solution, imo.


----------



## ColeLawn

You've gotten some answers already but here's my take...



Cluelessone said:


> 1) Clay bar/wax. My god, clay barring this thing is something I dread every year. Any tips to make it easier and/or faster? Wax isn't bad but I've always been chicken on buffers, I do everything by hand at the moment - recommendations (and mental soothing) for buffers that won't make me pee myself when I go to use them?


Use synthetic clay (Griots, Mothers at AutoZone). I personally use the AutoScrub sponges from NanoSkin. Nothing beats traditional clay bar though. As for waxing, if you want to apply wax by buffer then just get a GG6 with a waxing pad and it's literally impossible to screw up. Keep in mind, the hardest part of waxing isn't applying it, but removing it, and a buffer doesn't help with this. I have corrected my cars numerous times and I still spread wax by hand. The spreading of wax is therapeutic, the removal will leave you sore.

My favorite is Collinite 476s + Beadmaker. YouTube Collinite 845 + Beadmaker and follow the same process. It is my favorite LSP by far and I have tried plenty of them.

Turtle Wax Seal n Shine is also really good as a cheap, quick fix, but it is very finicky to apply. I tried it last season but will likely just stick to Collinite + Beadmaker this year. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Your other option is to get the truck coated, but that's a whole new level of expensive and, IMO, takes away from the fun of being a DIY detailer. I want to be able to strip wash my car whenever I want to try something new. Not going to do that after dropping $1-2k on a coating.



Cluelessone said:


> 2) Wheel cleaning. With my tiny hands, I can normally get to the inside nooks and crannies but around the calipers it gets difficult. Good brushes to use?


ProElite Easy Reach brush at AutoZone is the best wheel brush I have used. Just recognize it's a $13 brush and will not last a lifetime. I went through two last summer with _heavy_ use (my brothers wash their cars at my house).



Cluelessone said:


> 3) I am ignorant to ceramic coatings. Can someone give me a quick overview, or a good source to read through? Recommendations on affordable coatings?


Can't help you there. I prefer traditional methods since I like to detail my cars and try new products from time to time..



Cluelessone said:


> 4) Foam cannon. Explain this to me, or a good source to read?


Foam gun/cannon sprays a ton of soap onto the vehicle prior to washing. This not only "cleans" the surface prior to contact wash, but also provides lubrication for the contact wash so cut back on any marring/scratching that is caused from contact washes.

If you aren't interested in going with a pressure washer + foam cannon + accessories (think backpack sprayers of the automotive world), then go with a hose end foam gun (think OTC hose end liquid herbicides). Foam guns aren't 100% necessary, but one of those things that you won't be able to live without after owning it. I would never wash my cars nowadays without foaming first; it makes me cringe when I think about it now. I don't know why (probably because I've spent hundreds of hours correcting my cars' paint over the years...).

Hope that helps and nice truck!


----------



## Cluelessone

ColeLawn said:


> You've gotten some answers already but here's my take...
> 
> 
> 
> Cluelessone said:
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Clay bar/wax. My god, clay barring this thing is something I dread every year. Any tips to make it easier and/or faster? Wax isn't bad but I've always been chicken on buffers, I do everything by hand at the moment - recommendations (and mental soothing) for buffers that won't make me pee myself when I go to use them?
> 
> 
> 
> Use synthetic clay (Griots, Mothers at AutoZone). I personally use the AutoScrub sponges from NanoSkin. Nothing beats traditional clay bar though. As for waxing, if you want to apply wax by buffer then just get a GG6 with a waxing pad and it's literally impossible to screw up. Keep in mind, the hardest part of waxing isn't applying it, but removing it, and a buffer doesn't help with this. I have corrected my cars numerous times and I still spread wax by hand. The spreading of wax is therapeutic, the removal will leave you sore.
> 
> My favorite is Collinite 476s + Beadmaker. YouTube Collinite 845 + Beadmaker and follow the same process. It is my favorite LSP by far and I have tried plenty of them.
> 
> Turtle Wax Seal n Shine is also really good as a cheap, quick fix, but it is very finicky to apply. I tried it last season but will likely just stick to Collinite + Beadmaker this year. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
> 
> Your other option is to get the truck coated, but that's a whole new level of expensive and, IMO, takes away from the fun of being a DIY detailer. I want to be able to strip wash my car whenever I want to try something new. Not going to do that after dropping $1-2k on a coating.
> 
> 
> 
> Cluelessone said:
> 
> 
> 
> 2) Wheel cleaning. With my tiny hands, I can normally get to the inside nooks and crannies but around the calipers it gets difficult. Good brushes to use?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ProElite Easy Reach brush at AutoZone is the best wheel brush I have used. Just recognize it's a $13 brush and will not last a lifetime. I went through two last summer with _heavy_ use (my brothers wash their cars at my house).
> 
> 
> 
> Cluelessone said:
> 
> 
> 
> 3) I am ignorant to ceramic coatings. Can someone give me a quick overview, or a good source to read through? Recommendations on affordable coatings?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Can't help you there. I prefer traditional methods since I like to detail my cars and try new products from time to time..
> 
> 
> 
> Cluelessone said:
> 
> 
> 
> 4) Foam cannon. Explain this to me, or a good source to read?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Foam gun/cannon sprays a ton of soap onto the vehicle prior to washing. This not only "cleans" the surface prior to contact wash, but also provides lubrication for the contact wash so cut back on any marring/scratching that is caused from contact washes.
> 
> If you aren't interested in going with a pressure washer + foam cannon + accessories (think backpack sprayers of the automotive world), then go with a hose end foam gun (think OTC hose end liquid herbicides). Foam guns aren't 100% necessary, but one of those things that you won't be able to live without after owning it. I would never wash my cars nowadays without foaming first; it makes me cringe when I think about it now. I don't know why (probably because I've spent hundreds of hours correcting my cars' paint over the years...).
> 
> Hope that helps and nice truck!
Click to expand...

Thanks! She works hard but I do try and keep her nice. I can't afford to replace her, with the current prices!

I'm going to look into all your suggestions - that brush looks perfect for my deep-but-not-offset wheels (hate, hate, hate trucks with big offsets, took me forever to find decent wheels that came in + or at least zero).


----------



## Jwsjr

My 10 year old Makita finally bit the bullet. Looking for recommendations on a replacement. I am a buy once / cry once kind of guy. Looking at the Rupes line I think. So many newer models available. As this will be my only polisher/buffer can anyone point me in right direction?


----------



## TroyScherer

Jwsjr said:


> My 10 year old Makita finally bit the bullet. Looking for recommendations on a replacement. I am a buy once / cry once kind of guy. Looking at the Rupes line I think. So many newer models available. As this will be my only polisher/buffer can anyone point me in right direction?



Saying a 10yr old Makita make me think you were running a rotary but I want to confirm that.

Both Rupes and Flex have DA and Rotary polishers that are top of the line.

The Flex "Gear driven" DA's I think are a little better in the gear driven space. And since they are gear driven you don't worry about Pad stall of DA's

The Rupes "BigFoot" DA's the 15 and 21 are the better true DA's if you are looking for the newer long through options in my opinion. I personally have an old 15es. I can use it for almost everything except really small tight areas.

If you are looking for a rotary I think both companies make good units. I have a Flex rotary that I really like.

Another thing to think about is the newer Flex battery powered tools. They are being highly rated and reviewed. If you don't use the polishers all the time the battery option might be something to consider.


----------



## Jwsjr

Made the decision on Rupes LHR21 Mark III. Ordered online… then figured I'd just check to make sure no' one locally carries them. Incredibly I found 1 20 miles from my house. Let me say this… OMG!!!!!!! Had no idea how much difference there actually is. Been polishing boat, music cranked up, couple of beverages of choice on tap. Happy boy.


----------



## Baretta

What's everybody's go-to combination for cutting and polishing? Pads, compounds and polishes.


----------



## Jwsjr

I'm anxious to hear some responses on this as well. I just processed the Rupes DA, the Rupes pads ( foam and wool) as well
as Rupes cutting and polishing compound. I was extremely pleased but can only compare it to 3M products. Definitely like much better than those.


----------



## Baretta

Jwsjr said:


> I'm anxious to hear some responses on this as well. I just processed the Rupes DA, the Rupes pads ( foam and wool) as well
> as Rupes cutting and polishing compound. I was extremely pleased but can only compare it to 3M products. Definitely like much better than those.


Some youtubers that I follow like Jescar Correction Compound and Sonax Perfect Finish with blue and yellow Rupes pads.


----------



## AndyS

Baretta said:


> What's everybody's go-to combination for cutting and polishing? Pads, compounds and polishes.


I've completely left foam pads behind unless finishing with a really fine polish (or polishing with just water, or water and a polish mix).

For years I've used Meguiars microfiber pads for almost everything. Kevin Brown makes some micro-sized ones for air-powered micro-polishers. Or at least he did... It's a while since I purchased.

I don't do heavy correction personally. I'd rather spend more time with less aggressive products since I'm not on the clock. I use a paint depth gauge to make sure I'm not going too crazy. For regular correction I find M205 as good as anything. For finishing polishes I go Menzerna. I find keeping the pads clean and removing residue from the work area to be most of the battle vs. finding the perfect products.


----------



## gregonfire

Washed mine and my wife's cars this weekend. Trying out a couple new products that were recommended to me.

CarPro Reset soap (new)
Gtechniq W6 wheel and brake cleaner (new)
CG VRP dressing for tires
CG V07 while drying

Overall very happy with the soap and W6. Definitely want to get a foam cannon setup in the future. W6 works great for cleaning brake dust off the brembos.


----------



## PNW_George

For those with CarPro CQuartz Finest or similar ceramic coating, other than washing, how do you maintain it in addition to regular washing?

The 2016 X6 is my wife's car, ordered, not picked from the lot, and when it arrived, asked the dealer not to touch, wash or detail it and took it directly from the dealer to the detail shop for the ceramic coating.

A couple weeks later took it back for either a Reload or HydrO2 application, I can't remember what they applied for sure but it was included in the deal.

Over the 5 plus years I've owned the car I've always kept the car garaged and washed it regularly using the two-bucket method, actually 4 buckets since I wash the wheels first and then the car with fresh mitts and buckets. I probably haven't done too much damage since it only has 40K miles and she drives our 2000 Land Cruiser if the weather is really nasty or if it snows.

What I haven't done is apply a maintenance coating like Reload on a regular basis. Going forward I intend to and want to be sure I do it correctly. I'm thinking I can get by with once a year since we really don't put that many miles on it.

I spent the better part of a day giving my wife's X6 the full treatment last spring but not sure I did in in the right order or if I missed anything. I plan on going through the process again this spring and I'll admit to losing my enthusiasm for washing. It takes so long to do it right and I can't stand not doing it as well as I possibly can.

Here are the steps I took:

1) Used a Kranzle K499TST pressure washer to take most of the dirt off the car and wheels.
2) Washed the wheels with the two-bucket method, rinsed with pressure washer
3) Used CarPro Reset Shampoo and a soap cannon to soak the car.
4) Used fresh mitts and water and washed car with two-bucket method
5) Rinsed with pressure washer and lightly dried with towel
6) Sprayed on CarPro IronX, let sit and rubbed it with damp microfiber towel
7) Rinsed well with pressure washer, dried with microfiber and waffle towels
8) Used Master Blaster car dryer/blower to get all water out of door and panel seams.
9) Sprayed on CarPro Reload, quarter panel at a time, buffed in with microfiber with a bit of reload on it, buffed again with different clean microfiber, changing to new towels as they got damp.

Anything I 'm missing, other than just taking it in to the detailer once a year to get the full treatment and save my time? They aren't too bad but removing some stubborn water spots is one other area I could work on. They are a bigger problem on my older black 335i that I had corrected and coated after my wife's car.


----------



## TroyScherer

Your process looks really solid.

I will say that if you are getting 5+ years out of CQF then you are doing really well since they have a 2 year warranty. I have gotten over 3 years on the more regular CQUK.

I also have a Master Blaster car dryer and one thing I do to make the dying part easier is after rinsing I use the water sheeting method to get as much water off the surface as possible. Then using the blower is just to get the rest and the cracks and hard to do parts done. It has sped up that part of my process.






As far as the regular maintenance stuff and what "topper" product I am using it depends on my mood. I really like and still use Reload but I also use a few other. Here is a list of what I have and use. I have moved away from regular QD's and prefer to use waterless wash product with protection as I think that are safer in caring for the paint and not scratching things.

- Reload - The original and still one of my favs.

- CarPro EliXir or ECH2O - I prefer ECH2O since it is a mix as you go product that was built to have cleaning and protection built in. EliXir is just a ready to use evolution of ECH2O

- Koch Chemie's Fse - QD with some minor water spot remover in it.

- P&S Bead Maker - Some may say it is over hyped. But for me it is cost effective and it does what is is supposed to. Helps dry the vehicle and leaves a little gloss and slickness.

- McKee's 37 SiO2 Rinseless Wash - Can be mixed as a waterless wash or as and Si02 QD. It leaves a great slickness and since it is a "wash" product it has some extra cleaner as well and to me is almost safer than using a straight spray sealant.


----------



## PNW_George

TroyScherer said:


> Your process looks really solid.
> 
> I also have a Master Blaster car dryer and one thing I do to make the dying part easier is after rinsing I use the water sheeting method to get as much water off the surface as possible. Then using the blower is just to get the rest and the cracks and hard to do parts done. It has sped up that part of my process.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have moved away from regular QD's and prefer to use waterless wash product with protection as I think that are safer in caring for the paint and not scratching things.
> 
> - Reload - The original and still one of my favs.
> 
> - CarPro EliXir or ECH2O - I prefer ECH2O since it is a mix as you go product that was built to have cleaning and protection built in. EliXir is just a ready to use evolution of ECH2O
> 
> - Koch Chemie's Fse - QD with some minor water spot remover in it.
> 
> - P&S Bead Maker - Some may say it is over hyped. But for me it is cost effective and it does what is is supposed to. Helps dry the vehicle and leaves a little gloss and slickness.
> 
> - McKee's 37 SiO2 Rinseless Wash - Can be mixed as a waterless wash or as and Si02 QD. It leaves a great slickness and since it is a "wash" product it has some extra cleaner as well and to me is almost safer than using a straight spray sealant.


Thanks. I am familiar with the sheeting method but even though I have a dedicated hose for the pressure washer I need to disconnect the Eley comfort grip spray nozzle on my longer hose and that is a pain since the main shutoff is on the other side of the house and the nozzle doesn't have the correct flow to make sheeting work. I don't know why I haven't tried just unscrewing the cleaning nozzle and seeing if that provides a better sheeting flow.

I've never tried the waterless wash products even though I think I have some. I'll research the products you mentioned. Thanks again.


----------



## Baretta

Did some Black Friday on-line shopping from https://carzilla.ca/


----------



## Baretta

Bought the Griot's Creeper II. The new version comes with a mini creeper that pops off. Pretty handy for closer to ground level jobs. Different tray design, not sectioned. The 4 bottle holders are all the same size but primary designed for GG 22oz bottles or Gyeon. See if I can modify it for 16oz as the holders aren't circular enclosed. Still with 4" wheels and tray depth they shouldn't tip over too easily.


----------



## Herring

For Karcher K1700 Cube owners, we're you able to find just the unit without the added wand and hose?


----------



## Mightyquinn

Herring said:


> For Karcher K1700 Cube owners, we're you able to find just the unit without the added wand and hose?


No, you just have to trash them if you are going to upgrade. Just FYI, I just did a warranty claim on mine after having it for 2 years with moderate use.


----------



## SumBeach35

Herring said:


> For Karcher K1700 Cube owners, we're you able to find just the unit without the added wand and hose?


i believe regulations prevent this from being possible unless you buy it used. A customer asked the people who make the Active pressure washers during a Q+A and that is why they said they had to include the hose and wand that everyone usually throws away.


----------



## Mightyquinn

SumBeach35 said:


> Herring said:
> 
> 
> 
> For Karcher K1700 Cube owners, we're you able to find just the unit without the added wand and hose?
> 
> 
> 
> i believe regulations prevent this from being possible unless you buy it used. A customer asked the people who make the Active pressure washers during a Q+A and that is why they said they had to include the hose and wand that everyone usually throws away.
Click to expand...

What regulation would force a company to sell extra stuff? I bet it's for our safety :lol:


----------



## Herring

I went with the Karcher Cube 1700, a MTM SG 28 gun, 3/8" 50ft hose, and quick connect fittings from The Clean Garage. Hooked it all up today to try out and knock the pollen off of the car. Now to decide whether to find a permanent mounting solution or just drag it all out weekend warrior style. There is a great spot to add a faucet connection near the water heater that already has an electrical outlet. But, the caveat there is the 25' before making out of the garage with the hose. I don't plan on doing a lot of detailing, rather just a fast and efficient setup for maintaining our two SUVs.


----------



## Ware

Herring said:


> …Now to decide whether to find a permanent mounting solution or just drag it all out weekend warrior style. There is a great spot to add a faucet connection near the water heater that already has an electrical outlet. But, the caveat there is the 25' before making out of the garage with the hose...


I don't regret permanent mounting my Kranzle one bit. I find myself using it more than I would if I have to drag everything out and hook it up.


----------



## robbybobby

Thanks again TLF! I just went down a two day rabbit hole of buying detailing products. My wife says I need less hobbies but what is one more!


----------



## Toechainz

Love doing my own detailing. Can't get the same attention to detail when you pay someone 9/10 times. IMO I agree with prior posts on the Meguiar's products being top of the line, however I'd suggest spending the extra few dollars to use their Gold Class line. I use the Gold Class car soap and then clay bar and wax. The Gold Class carnuba wax is great. Best tire shine is BY FAR Superior Products Cover All Tire Dressing. I've used probably 20 different tire shines and this one is fantastic, doesn't sling and has a great shine that lasts a week or more. Just make sure you use a tire and rim cleaner before applying tire shine for best results (I use the Armor All Extreme Tire and Rim Cleaner). Best window cleaner is Rain-X at least on the exterior, it makes the water bead up and stays clean for a long time. Lastly if you've got baked on bugs the best product I've found to remove them easily is Lifter-1 Bug & Tar Remover, it works wonders. Interior detailing stick with Meguiar's and you won't be disappointed, especially with their leather cleaner.

Hope this helps!


----------



## Herring

Trying Pan The Organizer's favorites on the family roadster.


----------



## FATC1TY

Anyone got some favorites for heavy heavy brake dust and wheel cleaning ? My F350 has aftermarket wheels, but the brake dust is INTENSE, and it's quite the job.

Have used the CG and Griots… Griots seems nice, I used dawn and a bunch of special brushes and rags and it works okay, but something to really break it down, with less hand work and pressure washing would be great.


----------



## SumBeach35

Mightyquinn said:


> SumBeach35 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Herring said:
> 
> 
> 
> For Karcher K1700 Cube owners, we're you able to find just the unit without the added wand and hose?
> 
> 
> 
> i believe regulations prevent this from being possible unless you buy it used. A customer asked the people who make the Active pressure washers during a Q+A and that is why they said they had to include the hose and wand that everyone usually throws away.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What regulation would force a company to sell extra stuff? I bet it's for our safety :lol:
Click to expand...

Thats what governments do, everything is for our safety.


----------



## quattljl

FATC1TY said:


> Anyone got some favorites for heavy heavy brake dust and wheel cleaning ? My F350 has aftermarket wheels, but the brake dust is INTENSE, and it's quite the job.
> 
> Have used the CG and Griots… Griots seems nice, I used dawn and a bunch of special brushes and rags and it works okay, but something to really break it down, with less hand work and pressure washing would be great.


Get a foamer. You'll be amazed how much more effective your chemical of choice is when you foam it on. I personally use Optimum Power Clean diluted 3:1 in an IK foamer and it works great.


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

FATC1TY said:


> Anyone got some favorites for heavy heavy brake dust and wheel cleaning ? My F350 has aftermarket wheels, but the brake dust is INTENSE, and it's quite the job.
> 
> Have used the CG and Griots… Griots seems nice, I used dawn and a bunch of special brushes and rags and it works okay, but something to really break it down, with less hand work and pressure washing would be great.


Depends on the alloy of the aftermarket wheels. If they are really bad I'd remove them and do a full decon with an approved apc for that alloy. I'd also use ironx or similar iron removing product afterwards as you probably have a lot of iron contamination.

It may take multiple applications to get the results you are after. Are they steel, aluminum, or chrome? Powder coated, painted, or bare metal?


----------



## Theycallmemrr

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> Depends on the alloy of the aftermarket wheels. If they are really bad I'd remove them and do a full decon with an approved apc for that alloy. I'd also use ironx or similar iron removing product afterwards as you probably have a lot of iron contamination.
> 
> It may take multiple applications to get the results you are after. Are they steel, aluminum, or chrome? Powder coated, painted, or bare metal?


This is the first thing you need to check is what your wheels are made of as suggested by @Boy_meets_lawn . I would check out Meguiar's Wheel Brightner. But check the label to make sure they are compatible with your wheels.


----------



## mamoore9

Theycallmemrr said:


> Boy_meets_lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on the alloy of the aftermarket wheels. If they are really bad I'd remove them and do a full decon with an approved apc for that alloy. I'd also use ironx or similar iron removing product afterwards as you probably have a lot of iron contamination.
> 
> It may take multiple applications to get the results you are after. Are they steel, aluminum, or chrome? Powder coated, painted, or bare metal?
> 
> 
> 
> This is the first thing you need to check is what your wheels are made of as suggested by @Boy_meets_lawn . I would check out Meguiar's Wheel Brightner. But check the label to make sure they are compatible with your wheels.
Click to expand...

Both guys are spot on. You'll need an iron remover for sure. MUST follow directions carefully about leaving on in sun or heat through. Might take multiple applications of this and a wheel cleaner. Take your time and do one wheel at a time and you'll get them sorted though.

I'm an Adam's fanboy, but their products haven't disappointed me yet.


----------



## Amoo316

I wanted to try the two new Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions tire and wheel cleaners.

FWIW - The foamer (red bottle no iron remover) if you have any type of tire that's an ATV or mud tire, don't even bother. 1 bottle for 4 tires and it's basically toast and didn't have enough oomph to remove any brake dust.

The black bottle, wheel cleaner with iron remover, this stuff is legit. Even safe on paintwork though more expensive them other iron decon products.

I would rank:

1. Adams wheel and tire
2. P&S Brake Buster
3. Turtle Wax Hybrid with Iron Remover

Obviously if you have really embedded brake dust, the turtle wax may move up in this list. That said, the Adams has never let me down.

Full disclosure I'm a Griot's guy so it's hard for me to put out that list.


----------



## RCUK

Anyone here used Adam's Car Shampoo and also whilst the car panels are in full sun? I just bought a bottle, never tried it but heard good things about it's ability to not dry as quickly as other shampoos?

After 10am in the morning my car is in full sun until dusk so no chance of avoiding the sun. I snow foam first, rinse, then contact wash, but I've had issues with residue drying and then I'm having to soap again. The car is black.


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

RCUK said:


> Anyone here used Adam's Car Shampoo and also whilst the car panels are in full sun? I just bought a bottle, never tried it but heard good things about it's ability to not dry as quickly as other shampoos?
> 
> After 10am in the morning my car is in full sun until dusk so no chance of avoiding the sun. I snow foam first, rinse, then contact wash, but I've had issues with residue drying and then I'm having to soap again. The car is black.


I use adams mega foam in the foam cannon and car shampoo in the bucket and wash in 100 degree full sun all the time. I have never had a problem having it dry on the paint, it always washes off without issue. I am using softened and DI water though so if you have high TDS your results may vary.


----------



## RCUK

Thanks @Boy_meets_lawn I tried Adams Car Shampoo this past weekend and let it sit on the car for about 5 minutes in 21C/70F temperature, no issues with drying. The water wasn't DI but was from my indoor tap that is softened using salt. The shampoo smells great 😎

Now next decision is whether to by a DI vessel as the hard water feeding my hose is drying quickly on the paint and leaving water spots, even with me running around trying to dry the car with an Ego blower and micro fibre cloths.


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

DI water is a game changer, especially on dark vehicles. I suggest buying a unit that has a inline bypass valve. If you can find an old water softener tank you can buy the di resin and convert it.

Whatever you do I'd stay away from the CR spotless systems and get something with at least 0.5 cu ft of resin.


----------



## Amoo316

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> I use adams mega foam in the foam cannon and car shampoo in the bucket and wash in 100 degree full sun all the time. I have never had a problem having it dry on the paint, it always washes off without issue. I am using softened and DI water though so if you have high TDS your results may vary.


How do you like the Mega Foam in the bucket? I typically use the Griots Foaming Surface in the cannon and bucket, as it also reactivates with water and rinses clean even if it starts to dry.

I just got in 5L of the new to us in the US, Koch Auto Foam at 9.5pH to use in the cannon as a prewash, but am looking for a cheaper bucket wash solution. Preferably pH neutral.

FWIW going to be trying out the Auto Foam this weekend, so I'll report back. I just like that at 9.5pH it'll still be safe on coatings but have some cleaning power. It's also STUPID cheap.

EDIT: In relation to the above conversation. The Foaming Poly Gloss honestly fixed any drying/water spot issues I had.


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

I tried the mega foam once in the bucket. I love the smell but I think the normal adams car shampoo is the way to go as the cost per application is much more reasonable.

I'm using car pro reset for my decon wash.


----------



## Amoo316

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> I tried the mega foam once in the bucket. I love the smell but I think the normal adams car shampoo is the way to go as the cost per application is much more reasonable.
> 
> I'm using car pro reset for my decon wash.


I'm honestly not a fan of Reset or very many Carpro products at all. Reset just feels like a really expensive pH neutral which I FEEL under delivers.


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

What do you use on coated vehicles? Alkaline soaps definitely have more cleaning power and I would recommend them for anyone that doesn't have a ceramic coated vehicle.


----------



## Amoo316

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> What do you use on coated vehicles? Alkaline soaps definitely have more cleaning power and I would recommend them for anyone that doesn't have a ceramic coated vehicle.


That question is exactly why I just picked up Auto Foam at 9.5pH. Most coatings claim safe from 3pH to 12pH. pH neutral is 7.5, so 9.5 isn't extremely caustic and very safe IMO on coatings. (Plus 5L for $59 is stupid cheap.)

I was previously diluting Griots Surface Prep down to below 10pH for my decon washes.

For an acidic decon, Carpro Descale at 6.0 was the only "brand name" acidic decon I'm aware of. I've diluted up some wheel cleaners into the 5-6 range and used that for my acidic decon.

Koch also released their NMS 5.5pH (Nano Magic) shampoo, but at $41 for 1L, it's going to get a pass from me. Descale is still the cheapest ($32/L) "brand name" acid decon we have that I'm aware of.

Both Koch products and descale claim safe for coatings so staying in that 5-10 pH range seems to be coating safe. Going to the edges towards 3 and closer to 12 seems riskier. (Koch rep demoed the AF and NMS on Miranda's detailing channel on his coated vehicle and talked about it.)

Also for clarity, I'm talking completely about coatings. If I wanted to just decon and clean non coated vehicles, 12pH Super Clean is still hard to beat for value vs performance.


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

I'll pick some up to try once I work through what I have. Always down to try new products. I usually wash my vehicles at least 3 times a month so they really don't get that dirty.


----------



## Amoo316

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> I'll pick some up to try once I work through what I have. Always down to try new products. I usually wash my vehicles at least 3 times a month so they really don't get that dirty.


I put once ounce of AF mixed with 1 Ounce of Super Clean in the cannon last night as I had to pressure wash the back of the house and just wanted to see how it foamed. Yeah, I'm thinking 1 ounce per full foam cannon is MORE than enough.

Also highly recommend acid for cleaning mildew off house not alkaline, but I got to test out the foaming before my first wash with it so I was happy. 15 degree tip on the gas honda pressure washer did all the heavy lifting, but my son and I had fun, so that's all that matters.


----------



## MuttGrunt

Comparing shampoo prices but not mentioning their dilution ratios really throws things off. If one product is 128:1 vs another at 256:1, then there's a big difference right off the bat in their actual cost per use.
CarPro reset isn't much designed for maintenance IMO, it's a stripping shampoo that rinses clear very easily, and with that in mind, it's very good.


----------



## Amoo316

MuttGrunt said:


> Comparing shampoo prices but not mentioning their dilution ratios really throws things off. If one product is 128:1 vs another at 256:1, then there's a big difference right off the bat in their actual cost per use.
> CarPro reset isn't much designed for maintenance IMO, it's a stripping shampoo that rinses clear very easily, and with that in mind, it's very good.


I've done the math already on everything I was talking about above.

Here's a cross post from something I posted on another forum:

The tech may be there, but IMO they are really pushing the envelope on pricing for the NMS. Coming in at $105 for 5L works out to about $1.24/wash if you use 2oz per wash AND buy it 5L at a time. Considering GSF already sits at the upper end of the market @ $85 for 5L works out to $1.00/wash. I can see the thought process of skipping the toppers, but you can still get under that $1.24/wash WITH a topper and good quality Shampoos/Snow Foams.

On the contrary, that Af is going to go nuts IMO. They're going to give us an Alkaline pre-wash, which stays in the pH range of most all coatings at $52/5L or $0.30/oz. Considering how well that stuff foams at 1oz, 1oz/wash is easily doable. So I can pre-wash my vehicle for $0.30, then come back with a pH neutral soap in the $0.20/oz (Adams) - $0.45/oz (Griots), top it in the $0.30/oz (Dreammaker) - (Wet Coat) $0.70/oz range and get everything for the around the same price per wash of ONLY using NMS.


----------



## MuttGrunt

^that's especially good stuff then Amoo. I'm a bit disconnected from what non wholesale pricing looks like on all this stuff + I'm buying in bulk. Cost per use is a very good measurement and really evens out the playing field so someone can determine if that extra nice item is worth it.

I'm also a big advocate for keeping it fun, to include some luxury items/expenses. Just don't get sucked into the flavor of the month or internet hype products too much; they'll have you thinking method and technique means less and product means more. &#128077;


----------



## Amoo316

@MuttGrunt yeah there are some benefits to just being a DIYer. Even though we're generally paying full price, we don't need to keep as many products on hand and don't go through them as fast.

I'm down with products that are willing to stay around the market average. I don't mind buying towards the top of that (ie I use wet coat on a truck). I'm just not down with going way above the market averages for similar quality items.

It's a hobby, but not an obsession for me. As previously mentioned, I dislike Carpro and actually really like Koch stuff, but will be sticking with Descale over NMS.


----------



## BermudaBoy

Finally getting my detailing game going. Just finished a rehab on my neighbor's severely neglected 3 series that was full of scratches, faded and filthy paint and every other problem you can think of. I think it turned out quite nicely.

Headlight restoration, engine bay cleaning and detailing, full decon wash with paint correction and a ceramic coating.


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

Amoo316 said:


> MuttGrunt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Comparing shampoo prices but not mentioning their dilution ratios really throws things off. If one product is 128:1 vs another at 256:1, then there's a big difference right off the bat in their actual cost per use.
> CarPro reset isn't much designed for maintenance IMO, it's a stripping shampoo that rinses clear very easily, and with that in mind, it's very good.
> 
> 
> 
> I've done the math already on everything I was talking about above.
> 
> Here's a cross post from something I posted on another forum:
> 
> The tech may be there, but IMO they are really pushing the envelope on pricing for the NMS. Coming in at $105 for 5L works out to about $1.24/wash if you use 2oz per wash AND buy it 5L at a time. Considering GSF already sits at the upper end of the market @ $85 for 5L works out to $1.00/wash. I can see the thought process of skipping the toppers, but you can still get under that $1.24/wash WITH a topper and good quality Shampoos/Snow Foams.
> 
> On the contrary, that Af is going to go nuts IMO. They're going to give us an Alkaline pre-wash, which stays in the pH range of most all coatings at $52/5L or $0.30/oz. Considering how well that stuff foams at 1oz, 1oz/wash is easily doable. So I can pre-wash my vehicle for $0.30, then come back with a pH neutral soap in the $0.20/oz (Adams) - $0.45/oz (Griots), top it in the $0.30/oz (Dreammaker) - (Wet Coat) $0.70/oz range and get everything for the around the same price per wash of ONLY using NMS.
Click to expand...

For what it's worth the Koch Af is on sale 20% off at clean garage. I picked some up to try and we will see if it replaces mega foam that I've been using for years.


----------



## Amoo316

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> For what it's worth the Koch Af is on sale 20% off at clean garage. I picked some up to try and we will see if it replaces mega foam that I've been using for years.


Damn, thanks for the heads up, but I'm already sitting on 5L. I like it though and feel 9pH is a good compromise between gentle on coatings and some cleaning power. I'm using it as a pre-wash, then rinse, then swapping to a pH neutral. Liking that combo.

I just need to run out of this Griots I've got to try something different. Great foamer, almost too thick for a wash soap even at 1oz in the cannon. Also on the lubricity scale I'd give it a 7.5. Thinking of trying the Hybrid pure slick and slide next, dunno yet. Might just give the adams blue a shot. I'm sure I'll over analyze it like I do everything else and get what is the most economical at the time for .03/wash like it will matter in the long run...


----------



## FATC1TY

Best product for the plastic trim on trucks? I got a little wild with the torq rotary, putting some chemical guys black light glaze on, and I've got some spots I didn't buff off the wax/glaze that are a little faded looking. I'm sure it'll come off with a wash, but will want to put something on there to really darken up the plastic a little. It's not faded very bad, it's only a 2019.


----------



## Baretta

CG VRP and CarPro Perl.


----------



## Amoo316

FATC1TY said:


> Best product for the plastic trim on trucks? I got a little wild with the torq rotary, putting some chemical guys black light glaze on, and I've got some spots I didn't buff off the wax/glaze that are a little faded looking. I'm sure it'll come off with a wash, but will want to put something on there to really darken up the plastic a little. It's not faded very bad, it's only a 2019.


From all of the tests I have seen the Trim Cubes appear to be the subjective "best" based on how long it will last, it's ability to darken and it's ability to not draw dust.

That said, I had picked up a bottle of VRP before I decided to ceramic coat my trim. I have an above ground pool and as you may know those liners are made of fiberglass. Everytime I'd lean my arm over, I'd get a reaction. I scrubbed it with a brush and put some VRP on to see what would happen since the base product is clear. No more fiberglass in my arms now. Went through that record hot and dry June and now this wet and hot July so far.


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

FATC1TY said:


> Best product for the plastic trim on trucks? I got a little wild with the torq rotary, putting some chemical guys black light glaze on, and I've got some spots I didn't buff off the wax/glaze that are a little faded looking. I'm sure it'll come off with a wash, but will want to put something on there to really darken up the plastic a little. It's not faded very bad, it's only a 2019.


I'd clean the plastic with a apc and then a coat or 2 of Ultima tire and trim guard. I've used a bunch of vrp products and this seems to hold up the best for me. I don't use it on tires as it's too matte finish for my taste but it goes on all my trim and interior plastics.


----------



## corneliani

I'm in the middle of my mounted pressure-washer build and during a test run I noticed my little Ryobi PW taking a longer time to shut off when releasing the handle with the longer hose attached. Is this to be expected? It seems like the back pressure takes a little longer to reach the motor, causing a 5-second wind down before it shuts off. How will this impact motor longevity? And is this a matter of me using the small 1600psi ryobi cube PW


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

100 ft hose with that unit is pushing it. If you don't need all that length I'd suggest a 50' and you would probably be fine.


----------



## NoslracNevok

Great info in this topic, soaking it all in. I wash maybe every three months with the worst possible methods. I'm going to do a full process (below) then do frequent maintenance washes.

Touchless wash
Touch wash
Clay bar
Dry
Paint correction (compound & polish)
Seal

What are the opinions of different compounds & polishes? specifically Turtle wax vs Meguiar's?

Also, what is an efficient method to clean a front bumper of all the nasty baked bugs, tar, grim etc? Are the steps I have sufficient? Is there a special product that will make it easier?


----------



## Amoo316

NoslracNevok said:


> [media][/media]Great info in this topic, soaking it all in. I wash maybe every three months with the worst possible methods. I'm going to do a full process (below) then do frequent maintenance washes.
> 
> Touchless wash
> Touch wash
> Clay bar
> Dry
> Paint correction (compound & polish)
> Seal
> 
> What are the opinions of different compounds & polishes? specifically Turtle wax vs Meguiar's?
> 
> Alos, what is an efficient method to clean a front bumper of all the nasty baked bugs, tar, grim etc? Are the steps I have sufficient? Is there a special product that will make it easier?


I prefer the new Hybrid solutions stuff to the Meguiar's stuff personally, but I'm not sure one is that much better than the other.

For the bug, unless you're going to buy a specific product for it, something like Purple Power 20:1, let soak until almost dry then rinse/wipe off. Will still need some elbow grease, but it's a cheap solution.


----------



## corneliani

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> 100 ft hose with that unit is pushing it. If you don't need all that length I'd suggest a 50' and you would probably be fine.


Just wanted to acknowledge your message and provide some confirmation on your feedback.

I've swapped out pressure washers (with a higher psi one since I had access to one) and the issue becomes even more pronounced. I guess I was a bit surprised as my thinking was that the back-pressure would kick on quicker, triggering the unit to shut off quicker than the lower psi unit. Using the 50' hose solves this problem for both units... but I'm bummed because I already set up the reel with a 3/8"x100' hose.

What specs would an electric pressure washer need in order to utilize this size hose?? I haven't come across any resource that gets into this issue.


----------



## Ware

NoslracNevok said:


> Also, what is an efficient method to clean a front bumper of all the nasty baked bugs, tar, grim etc? Are the steps I have sufficient? Is there a special product that will make it easier?


I have some Adam's Bug Remover. I don't have anything to compare it to, but it seems to loosen the bug mess. They also have a tar & adhesive remover.

It's easy to get carried away because they seem to have a different product for everything, but I've had pretty good luck with their stuff. I'm not a power user though.


----------



## FATC1TY

No lie, Chemical guys swift wipe waterless wash.

Put it in a spray bottle and saturate the bugs. Grab a microfiber. It's gone. Don't know why it works but it does for me.


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

@corneliani It's not necessarily about PSI, it's about flow. You are only looking at maybe a 5 psi drop in pressure going from a 50ft to 100 ft hose. The prosumer or commercial electric units flow over 2 gallons per minute and the start stop system can detect the change quicker.

I know the active pressure washer had a good flow rate but I don't think they are built to last. I use the ar 630tss and have no problem with 100 ft hose.


----------



## quattljl

NoslracNevok said:


> Great info in this topic, soaking it all in. I wash maybe every three months with the worst possible methods. I'm going to do a full process (below) then do frequent maintenance washes.
> 
> Touchless wash
> Touch wash
> Clay bar
> Dry
> Paint correction (compound & polish)
> Seal
> 
> What are the opinions of different compounds & polishes? specifically Turtle wax vs Meguiar's?
> 
> Also, what is an efficient method to clean a front bumper of all the nasty baked bugs, tar, grim etc? Are the steps I have sufficient? Is there a special product that will make it easier?


For the paint correction, do you have a machine polisher or will you be using elbow grease? That will play a big part in product selection. My personal advice if using a machine polisher is to find something that doesn't dust, has a long working time, and doesn't require you to tape off trim as it's a huge time suck.

For cleaning the front bumper, a soak with a good APC followed by light agitation with a non-marring towel or scrubber should do the trick. The key here is dwell time. You want to let the product sit for a few minutes so it can break down the proteins in the bug splatter, dissolve the tar, and eat away at the road salts and grime. If you simply spray it on then rinse off or wipe with a towel you'll be disappointed in your results.


----------



## corneliani

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> @corneliani It's not necessarily about PSI, it's about flow. You are only looking at maybe a 5 psi drop in pressure going from a 50ft to 100 ft hose. The prosumer or commercial electric units flow over 2 gallons per minute and the start stop system can detect the change quicker.
> 
> I know the active pressure washer had a good flow rate but I don't think they are built to last. I use the ar 630tss and have no problem with 100 ft hose.


Appreciate the info brother. One of these days I'll wrap my mind around the physics of water flow & pressure, etc etc... every time I think I have it understood I get proven otherwise. In the meantime I'll switch to the 1/4"x50' flex hose and work the 100' hose into my next build.

EDIT: is $800 the best price on that ar 630tss?? Thats the price on their website... not sure if other resellers get better pricing.


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

You can find better pricing, I got mine pre 2020 so I'm not sure what the new baseline price is. There's a ar630 tss hot for $700 on toolbarn.com That model has a forged head and components that allow the use of hot water. If you can't find a 630 tss for cheaper this would be an upgrade even if you don't plan on plumbing in hot water.

Before you get one of these higher flow units you need to make sure you can power it. They will not work on a 15 amp circuit, you need 20 amps. Ar blue does have a different model that is designed to run on 15 amps and I helped a friend install one. It works well but he only has 50ft of hose so I can't say if there would be start stop delay.

Edit: shipping and tax puts it close to $800 at toolbarn. I got mine from thecleangarage and they seem to be the best listed price that includes shipping. They occasionally run sales so you may be able to get a better deal that way.


----------



## NoslracNevok

Thanks for your input @Amoo316 @Ware @quattljl

5 ish hours over several days and still need to do the windows and interior. On a new car scale, my car was a 5. I wanted to bring it up to an 8. I believe I accomplished that.

My takeaways-

It takes a long time.
Wet sand the deeper scuffs.
Short throw (instead of long) orbiter was well suited for my car's small area and tight angles.
Compound is good enough. It was hard to tell the difference between that and compound+polish.
I may sell my DA orbiter and buy one that is powered in both motions.
Never again will I use a brush to push off snow or go to a touch car wash.
Perhaps buy better orbiter pads. First one blew up while I was blowing it off with compressed air. The second unglued itself from the Velcro backing after hand washing in warm water.


----------



## quattljl

NoslracNevok said:


> Thanks for your input @Amoo316 @Ware @quattljl
> 
> 5 ish hours over several days and still need to do the windows and interior. On a new car scale, my car was a 5. I wanted to bring it up to an 8. I believe I accomplished that.
> 
> My takeaways-
> 
> It takes a long time.
> Wet sand the deeper scuffs.
> Short throw (instead of long) orbiter was well suited for my car's small area and tight angles.
> Compound is good enough. It was hard to tell the difference between that and compound+polish.
> I may sell my DA orbiter and buy one that is powered in both motions.
> Never again will I use a brush to push off snow or go to a touch car wash.
> Perhaps buy better orbiter pads. First one blew up while I was blowing it off with compressed air. The second unglued itself from the Velcro backing after hand washing in warm water.


I don't know what car you tried to correct or what materials/products you used, but in general you should always follow up your compounding step with a polishing step. The compounding step almost always will leave a slight haze to the finish that must be removed with a polish. The only way I can see that you didn't notice a difference was that the paint you were working on was very hard, your polisher not very good (if it's an old school orbital buffer I could see this), and/or your pad selection was not right for the job.

But you are right, it is a time consuming process but very rewarding once all said and done.


----------



## dofdk3

Auto Detailing is not easy, especially when you get into scratch removal and paint correction. But it can be SO rewarding. Nothing better than a clean ride.

I have a private detailing business (I don't advertise, limited repeat clients, not my full-time job).

Sorry I've missed out on this conversation so far!


----------



## Baretta

Is there any other way besides polishing to get rid of oxidation/water spots off x3 roof rails? I think it's made of aluminum???


----------



## Boy_meets_lawn

Baretta said:


> Is there any other way besides polishing to get rid of oxidation/water spots off x3 roof rails? I think it's made of aluminum???


If you have already tried vinegar or other acidic compounds without improvement then polishing would be my suggestion. You could try Flitz, it's a very mild polish.


----------



## dofdk3

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> Baretta said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any other way besides polishing to get rid of oxidation/water spots off x3 roof rails? I think it's made of aluminum???
> 
> 
> 
> If you have already tried vinegar or other acidic compounds without improvement then polishing would be my suggestion. You could try Flitz, it's a very mild polish.
Click to expand...

@Baretta aluminum is a soft metal. There's a chance what you're seeing is actually etching in the metal. If that's the case, you're not really going to be able to remove the spots unfortunately.


----------



## BermudaBoy

dofdk3 said:


> I have a private detailing business (I don't advertise, limited repeat clients, not my full-time job).


Same here. I gotta call yesterday on my day off from my full time job out of the blue from a random person looking for a detail so the cats kinda out of the bag but I guess it could be worse. It will be a little extra pocket change that will help get my daughter a really nice bday gift.


----------



## dofdk3

@BermudaBoy ive actually had to tell people no lol


----------



## BermudaBoy

dofdk3 said:


> @BermudaBoy ive actually had to tell people no lol


I specialize in ceramic coatings and paint correction. My neighbors see me prepping cars and sometimes come by asking for a wash, vacuum and interior wipe down. I love to tell them no and watch them run off because they are used to the guy who does it all for $60 and think I will do the same. That's a hard pass. Cheap isn't good and good isn't cheap.


----------



## dofdk3

@BermudaBoy exactly. There's a guy locally who is set up in an old gas station car wash. He charges $15 for "hand wash & wax."

I charge $100 for wash, wax, vacuum, and interior wipe down. Takes me roughly 2 hours.

And most of them time that's all people will pay for. Depending on prep involved, I charge upwards of $400-$500 for basic extended hybrid coatings and close to $1,000 for ceramic.

Yeah. The neighbors don't usually want to pay my prices. 😁


----------



## BermudaBoy

dofdk3 said:


> @BermudaBoy exactly. There's a guy locally who is set up in an old gas station car wash. He charges $15 for "hand wash & wax."
> 
> I charge $100 for wash, wax, vacuum, and interior wipe down. Takes me roughly 2 hours.
> 
> And most of them time that's all people will pay for. Depending on prep involved, I charge upwards of $400-$500 for basic extended hybrid coatings and close to $1,000 for ceramic.
> 
> Yeah. The neighbors don't usually want to pay my prices. 😁


I streamlined my offerings after my detailers course. I essentially have one exterior detail which is the wash, clay, decontamination and a ceramic sealant. I have a maintenance wash for ceramic coated vehicles. For interiors I'm all in or not in at all. I found that even when a client opted for a "light" cleaning I still cleaned pretty much everything because I didn't want to half *** it.

I'm raising my coating prices. I've kept them relatively low since my overhead is low and I pass the savings on to clients but I still need a small bump in price.

Hopefully your neighbors aren't like mine. I saw one cleaning his roof with a scrubbing mop. Another was washing with a hose and he and his son were wiping the SUV clean with a cloth. No soap anywhere in sight. Just some very hard water and two towels. There was another who used a 3 inch backing plate on his drill and used that to scrub the front of his $70K+ Tesla and then used the same foam pad to apply wash and wax to his tires as a dressing. I was extremely perplexed by that move.


----------



## Baretta

Boy_meets_lawn said:


> Baretta said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any other way besides polishing to get rid of oxidation/water spots off x3 roof rails? I think it's made of aluminum???
> 
> 
> 
> If you have already tried vinegar or other acidic compounds without improvement then polishing would be my suggestion. You could try Flitz, it's a very mild polish.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I just realized I have Mothers Mag & Aluminum polish. I'll give it a go.


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## Baretta

dofdk3 said:


> Boy_meets_lawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Baretta said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any other way besides polishing to get rid of oxidation/water spots off x3 roof rails? I think it's made of aluminum???
> 
> 
> 
> If you have already tried vinegar or other acidic compounds without improvement then polishing would be my suggestion. You could try Flitz, it's a very mild polish.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @Baretta aluminum is a soft metal. There's a chance what you're seeing is actually etching in the metal. If that's the case, you're not really going to be able to remove the spots unfortunately.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Fingers crossed aluminum polish works.


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