# Dropped Ortho Chick/Clove/Oxalis still no luck. PICS attached



## NothingMan (Sep 25, 2018)

Morning all,

Working on getting my lawn going and there are alot of thin areas and weeds. Planning a good overseeding this fall. So about 2 weeks ago I dropped/spray entire law with Ortho Chickweed / Clover / Oxalis killer and didn't seem to do much.

I have two different type of weeds have pictures of both that are really invading and looking for some assistance. Thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome (Sep 28, 2017)

It wont do anything to poa annua in those first 2 pictures.

It will take a few repeat applications to kill the chickweed at the bottom.


----------



## NothingMan (Sep 25, 2018)

HoosierLawnGnome said:


> It wont do anything to poa annua in those first 2 pictures.
> 
> It will take a few repeat applications to kill the chickweed at the bottom.


Thanks, amazing how I have been "taking care" to the best of my ability my lawn and next door they do nothing but mow and they don't have any Poa Annua....


----------



## NothingMan (Sep 25, 2018)

How would you approach the poa? fall?


----------



## chrismar (May 25, 2017)

Pre-emergent is the best way to fight against annua, but tenacity will work as a post-emergent. It will probably take a few apps.

Where I am (also in NJ), it doesn't get hot enough in my back yard to wipe out the annua, so it keeps spreading. I'm going to have to attack it with the tenacity this year for sure, because the patches definitely aren't getting any smaller.


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

There is another way to kill POA a.  etofumesame .

But that only kills it, all those thousands of little seeds will grow a new plan in the fall. A fall prem will prevent them from developing.

For now, bag mow to pick up as many seeds as possible and then make a bonfire.


----------



## NothingMan (Sep 25, 2018)

Thanks, So I'm planning on overseeding and fixing some of the bare spots in the fall and was going to skip the Fall Pre-M. What would be your plan of attack for that. Because last year I did a split app of Pre-M and my overseeding didn't take.

Uggghhh... I'm struggling and refuse to give up...


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Tenacity at seed down, at 30days, then PreM (late Sept/Oct).


----------



## NothingMan (Sep 25, 2018)

g-man said:


> Tenacity at seed down, at 30days, then PreM (late Sept/Oct).


Thanks, so for now bag and tag and wait till fall or I can use Tenacity now, etofumesame or RightLine ETHO 4 SC Herbicide Prograss SC as spot treatment to kill, then fall - just Tenacity at overseeding, 30day, then a Pre-M October.


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Yes to all of the above. If you kill now, you will have a bare spot in the summer. If you keep watered and alive, you can kill in July before your overseed. Since the area is large, you can use round up in July. If it is spread thru the yard, then one of the selective approaches.


----------



## Easyluck (Feb 5, 2019)

By accident I was using a rake to remove lawn debris and found out that raking can be a pretty successful way to remove poa annua. The roots are pretty shallow and with a little aggressive raking I was able to remove the poa. Depending on the size of your lawn and how widespread the poa is, you could try pulling the poa out by raking your lawn.


----------



## Muddysneakers77 (Nov 3, 2018)

I've used the Ortho Chick/Glove hose end sprayer 2x last year on my new backyard lawn. I was not impressed. I used it in the Fall (so that it would take most of the poison to its roots) and all it did was yellow (not kill) ANY of it. It did however, yellow and kill a lot of the surrounding grass--and yes, I did even coverage, so it was not user error. Fast forward to this Spring. The clover and creeping charlie are bigger and stronger than last year. I am pulling up by hand and putting seed and peat moss down. I will be doing the same thing come Fall. Ph tests shows that my lawn was slightly acidic (5.9). I use quick release lime and will hit it with another round come Fall during overseed.

I know other people that have used and liked this product. Me, not so much.


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome (Sep 28, 2017)

Muddysneakers77 said:


> I've used the Ortho Chick/Glove hose end sprayer 2x last year on my new backyard lawn. I was not impressed. I used it in the Fall (so that it would take most of the poison to its roots) and all it did was yellow (not kill) ANY of it. It did however, yellow and kill a lot of the surrounding grass--and yes, I did even coverage, so it was not user error. Fast forward to this Spring. The clover and creeping charlie are bigger and stronger than last year. I am pulling up by hand and putting seed and peat moss down. I will be doing the same thing come Fall. Ph tests shows that my lawn was slightly acidic (5.9). I use quick release lime and will hit it with another round come Fall during overseed.
> 
> I know other people that have used and liked this product. Me, not so much.


Sounds like you didnt do follow up apps per the label. One app wont kill it.


----------



## Muddysneakers77 (Nov 3, 2018)

I did 2 apps. The follow up really weakened the newer grass. I didn't want to push it even further that year. Creeping Charlie is really invasive...its back now with a vengeance.

I'm really trying for a more natural lawn and allowing thicker grass to choke out the more common weeds. But it does not work with these.


----------



## ForsheeMS (May 21, 2018)

Muddysneakers77 said:


> I've used the Ortho Chick/Glove hose end sprayer 2x last year on my new backyard lawn. I was not impressed. I used it in the Fall (so that it would take most of the poison to its roots) and all it did was yellow (not kill) ANY of it. It did however, yellow and kill a lot of the surrounding grass--and yes, I did even coverage, so it was not user error. Fast forward to this Spring. The clover and creeping charlie are bigger and stronger than last year. I am pulling up by hand and putting seed and peat moss down. I will be doing the same thing come Fall. Ph tests shows that my lawn was slightly acidic (5.9). I use quick release lime and will hit it with another round come Fall during overseed.
> 
> I know other people that have used and liked this product. Me, not so much.


Ditch the hose end sprayer. IMO they apply way too much water which pushes the chemical to the soil level where it does no good. Pick up a Triclopyr concentrate and a pump up sprayer. Mix per directions and add a non-ionic surfactant. Should take out most broadleaf weeds in 1 app. Clover might take 2 and the CC will take 3 and a close eye because it will pop back up but should be less each time.


----------



## Muddysneakers77 (Nov 3, 2018)

Ill give that a try. Thanks


----------



## HoosierLawnGnome (Sep 28, 2017)

Muddysneakers77 said:


> I did 2 apps. The follow up really weakened the newer grass. I didn't want to push it even further that year. Creeping Charlie is really invasive...its back now with a vengeance.
> 
> I'm really trying for a more natural lawn and allowing thicker grass to choke out the more common weeds. But it does not work with these.


Honestly you have to keep at it. 3 wouldn't be crazy at all

P.s. make your application more effective with a good non ionic surfactant, adding in a little ammonium sulfate or urea, and tracker die tie to make sure you paint It all.

Apply with a foliar spray, fine mist.

Waxy leaves are really good at repelling liquids.


----------



## mak474 (Mar 15, 2019)

I used this stuff but mixed it up in my pump sprayer w/ some dawn soap as my surfactant with good results. It didn't wipe out everything but from my experience, clover and chickweed are very robust plants. I'm going to put down another application of this product the same way to hopefully rid the rest. The first app was more of a whole yard blanket cover, this second app will only be more of a spot treatment.


----------



## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

HoosierLawnGnome said:


> Muddysneakers77 said:
> 
> 
> > I did 2 apps. The follow up really weakened the newer grass. I didn't want to push it even further that year. Creeping Charlie is really invasive...its back now with a vengeance.
> ...


I've found out that the non ionic surfactant is key.


----------



## mooch91 (May 5, 2019)

I stopped using the Ortho CCO (triclopyr amine) and stepped up to the triclopyr ester formulation. I've found it to be very effective, in particular with wild violets. It is a much less forgiving product in many ways, so it requires some experience to use it properly (surfactant, temperature/humidity/wind, season, etc.).


----------



## Shaggee (May 6, 2019)

g-man said:


> Tenacity at seed down, at 30days, then PreM (late Sept/Oct).


Hi g-man- I know you mentioned late Sept to drop the PreM, but I have already read here that folks drop it even as early as Mid August. Do you have an opinion on dropping it early? Would dropping it earlier require a 2nd split app?

Thanks


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

@Shaggee these instructions above are for folks doing a fall seeding. The two apps of tenacity cover for 60 days, which then allows prodiamine to be used (per the label).

If you are not doing fall seeding, then as soon as temps start to drop for your area (early to mid August). Remember that this just prevents more POA a. If you have some, you need to have a way to kill it (drought, manual removal or chemical).


----------



## ForsheeMS (May 21, 2018)

mooch91 said:


> I stopped using the Ortho CCO (triclopyr amine) and stepped up to the triclopyr ester formulation. I've found it to be very effective, in particular with wild violets. It is a much less forgiving product in many ways, so it requires some experience to use it properly (surfactant, temperature/humidity/wind, season, etc.).


Same here. I used the Ortho CCO concentrate for several years and it worked but the ester version definitely works better.


----------



## Shaggee (May 6, 2019)

g-man said:


> @Shaggee these instructions above are for folks doing a fall seeding. The two apps of tenacity cover for 60 days, which then allows prodiamine to be used (per the label).
> 
> If you are not doing fall seeding, then as soon as temps start to drop for your area (early to mid August). Remember that this just prevents more POA a. If you have some, you need to have a way to kill it (drought, manual removal or chemical).


g-man- Ahh that makes sense-

I already put down 1/2 app of prodiamine this past April and was planning to lay the rest this weekend. If I wanted to overseed in the fall, what Pre-M would you recommend instead of prodiamine?


----------



## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Prem now? None. You run the risk of it still be active in August.

Just use tenacity at seed down.


----------

