# Advice on Above Ground Irrigation For Lawn Renovation



## TreyDoc (Aug 16, 2018)

Hi All,

I need some help with some ideas on how to properly irrigate my back and side yard this fall for my renovation. I would like to do the whole yard at once, but that will depend on how much more expensive it will be. 
The GPM at the main line is 12-15GPM, however, at the first bib, it is only 7.8GPM. It has a 1/2" PEX running first off the main. The second bib is currently being run at 3/4" PEX 50' to new bib. If I need to make any changes I can. The bibs are marked by the stars.
My main goal is the backyard, but if I can get the entire lawn done, that would be great. Appreciate any and all suggestions.


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## TreyDoc (Aug 16, 2018)

Any advice on sprinklers or hose/pvc/poly? Thanks again.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

You will need a hose multi zone timer. With 60psi and 3/4 PEX, I limit my design gpm to 5gpm. 6gpm was pushing it with all the pressure losses. 1/2pex is even worst.

Since it seems that you want a temporary solution, 1in PVC for longer distance will help and not expensive.


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## zenmower (Jul 22, 2018)

My quick solution was rainbird valves and a basic scheduler from Lowes.
I then made my own manifold from PVC with adapters for garden hoses then connected it to my water hose faucet with a spliter.

For the heads, I used tractor supply T-post impact sprinklers that range 45 feet.

For my side yard, I used the melnor adjustable pattern sprinkler which is pretty neat.

Sure, you can get super fancy with smartphone enabled timers but I'm functional and cheap.
It also gives me something to screw around with.

The garden hoses are hidden under the grass so less obvious than you think.
My mower height goes right over them.

The key was knowing my outlet pressure so I only run one head at a time.
This was a bit of a pain as the water pressure varies during the day.
I can have a 10ft variance in distance as neighborhood people take showers.
Because of the arc, I'm watering my neighbors yard a little but they don't care.

One caution on t-posts and other above ground options is realizing the heads/base will move so you have to account for that either with range adjustment (t-posts) or using tent stakes to lock in the base to prevent movement or tip over (melnor adjustable). The T-posts move less in wet soil than ground stakes.

Come winter, I leave the heads, store the hoses in the basement, and disconnect the manifold from the valves and store in basement.


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## TreyDoc (Aug 16, 2018)

Thanks for the tips @g-man and @zenmower. Any experience with MP's? I see them mentioned a lot and I know g-man recommenced oscillators, but I don't think it would be too effective for the whole yard (I actually was looking at that Melnor at Lowe's). Also, how would I hook up pvc to sprinklers? I saw it in another thread, but not sure exactly what was used. 
Thanks again.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

I have MPs as my in ground. They work great. But trying them with above ground will be a bunch of hoses. For a temporary system, an oscillating will work for germination. I think @iowa jim did it last year.

PVC threads to the heads is done with a 50 cent raiser.


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## TreyDoc (Aug 16, 2018)

Thanks, I'll check that out. Do you think having MPs running off the 1" PVC would work? Or would the pressure drop be too much? I only ask as it costs much less (sprinkler warehouse for pro spray and MPs and Lowe's for PVC) than oscillators and hoses. Thanks again.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

It might, but you will need to know your working pressure and then the pressure losses and the heads per zone. In will be the same work as doing an in ground install without digging.


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## TreyDoc (Aug 16, 2018)

Guess I'll order a couple of MPs, melnors, i20s, some 3/4" hose, and some 1" PVC and see what I can find out. I know switching my first bib to 3/4" PEX from 1/2" will increase flow, but will it increase pressure to be worth it?


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## TreyDoc (Aug 16, 2018)

@g-man , on a side note, my Triv war is getting interesting.


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## zenmower (Jul 22, 2018)

TreyDoc said:


> Thanks for the tips @g-man and @zenmower. Any experience with MP's? I see them mentioned a lot and I know g-man recommenced oscillators, but I don't think it would be too effective for the whole yard (I actually was looking at that Melnor at Lowe's). Also, how would I hook up pvc to sprinklers? I saw it in another thread, but not sure exactly what was used.
> Thanks again.


No personal experience with MPs but I looked at them when doing my current system.
They look easier to play with and the science appears sound compared to the misting of regular heads which are more subject to wind.

I went my current route because it is brutally simple and durable...all metal heads...but not as visually appealing as the residential stuff. I just grabbed the hose end and valve at HD then walked around the fittings section until I found a match between the valve, PVC, and hose connections.

I have done a couple yards now of both in-ground and temporary/above ground stuff:
- No accounting for durable and simple unless that credit card just needs exercise.
- If you are going to do it yourself, you will make mistakes so I lean towards more heads than fewer and tweak them later as the yard gets established.

That said, like painting, prep is key for a nice yard with soil, drainage, irrigation setup before you start putting down seed and spending money on chemicals or equipment to chase problems. It is tempting to pay somebody but I have found that hit and miss and more expensive. Besides, to me this is a life skill that one should know.

Have fun and remember that the cut grass smell is apparently caused by grass as function of stress....so cut away and terrorize that expensive stuff into compliance. :twisted:


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## TreyDoc (Aug 16, 2018)

I received a quote for an in ground system yesterday and an email from the township. Apparently, our code does not allow a branch off of the line coming to the house. It has to be branched off the main waterline as a second line and run below the basement and up through next to the current water line and installed with a new meter. Then the line can be run outside for irrigation. Total cost for the township to do this, $3,500. Irrigation install, $4,200. Total, $7,700. Definitely not.

@zenmower I am looking into doing something similar with the manifold, but I probably will run PVC or Poly for the lines (due to the cost of 1" hosing). I ordered some different Hunter sprinklers, a Tframe from tractor supply, a Melnor spike oscillating and a normal oscillating to test everything out. I also grabbed some 1" and 3/4" PEX to switch out the bib 1/2" and finish the other bib (also am planning to sometime switch out the current 3/4" PEX house line to 1").
I'm currently going through the process of calculating pressure loss for the different types of lines for the irrigation. 
I never thought trying to water the grass seed could be so complicated. If it were easy, it wouldn't be much fun.


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## zenmower (Jul 22, 2018)

TreyDoc said:


> I received a quote for an in ground system yesterday and an email from the township. Apparently, our code does not allow a branch off of the line coming to the house. It has to be branched off the main waterline as a second line and run below the basement and up through next to the current water line and installed with a new meter. Then the line can be run outside for irrigation. Total cost for the township to do this, $3,500. Irrigation install, $4,200. Total, $7,700. Definitely not.
> 
> @zenmower I am looking into doing something similar with the manifold, but I probably will run PVC or Poly for the lines (due to the cost of 1" hosing). I ordered some different Hunter sprinklers, a Tframe from tractor supply, a Melnor spike oscillating and a normal oscillating to test everything out. I also grabbed some 1" and 3/4" PEX to switch out the bib 1/2" and finish the other bib (also am planning to sometime switch out the current 3/4" PEX house line to 1").
> I'm currently going through the process of calculating pressure loss for the different types of lines for the irrigation.
> I never thought trying to water the grass seed could be so complicated. If it were easy, it wouldn't be much fun.


If you use PVC for your long runs then flex tube to the head it may allow you enough flexibility to bury the lines with a shovel. I'd try a transfer shovel as it has a flat/straight tip. You may have to play with it as it will raise the surface height for cutting so maybe run the perimeter. Just an idea.


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## TreyDoc (Aug 16, 2018)

So here's where I'm at. The water velocity will be far to high and GPM to low using the current 1/2" pex to the first bib. I'm thinking of doing one of two things. Running 1" PEX from the main to the current hose bib, or removing the bib and using a 1" ball valve with a Backflow preventer. Then running 1" poly to valves and continuing the 1" to the heads.

Accounting for pressure loss, I would still be getting around 40psi at heads, a 12 psi total loss. Not sure where I would be at option 1 as I do not how much pressure loss going to a hose bib would be. Also, unsure how much flow would be restricted. Option 2 would be safe between 8-10 GPM.

Any help on suggestions if any of these would work or things to differently? Thanks again.

Also, can not bury as I'd have to get a permit which would throw the cost far to high.


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## adgattoni (Oct 3, 2017)

TreyDoc said:


> So here's where I'm at. The water velocity will be far to high and GPM to low using the current 1/2" pex to the first bib. I'm thinking of doing one of two things. Running 1" PEX from the main to the current hose bib, or removing the bib and using a 1" ball valve with a Backflow preventer. Then running 1" poly to valves and continuing the 1" to the heads.
> 
> Accounting for pressure loss, I would still be getting around 40psi at heads, a 12 psi total loss. Not sure where I would be at option 1 as I do not how much pressure loss going to a hose bib would be. Also, unsure how much flow would be restricted. Option 2 would be safe between 8-10 GPM.
> 
> ...


FYI changing a home's plumbing like this generally would require a permit as well. May want to double check the requirements on that where you live.


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## TreyDoc (Aug 16, 2018)

@adgattoni Thanks for the tip. Fixing, in this case enlarging, pipe does not need a permit. Only if adding a new line or changing the pipe material. I will have to have the inspector come out to double check the work for a fee of $25 (as long as I don't screw anything up).


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## TreyDoc (Aug 16, 2018)

Update

So, I branched a 1" pex off the house main (3/4" copper) for the first sillcock. Got about a 1 GPM improvement of 8.5gpm. With the 1/2" sillcock removed and a 3/4" ball valve, got 12.5 GPM (only going to use 9GPM). So, I calculated with the pressure loss and new GPM and started throwing anti syphon valves (so I didn't have to spend more money on a Backflow), timer, MP3000 heads, poly pipe (700' worth), fittings, etc. I was right around $600!

Is there any way I could possibly do my backyard and side yard (top and right pic) with a $200 budget? I'm not to worried about the front, but would love to at least fix all the Triv burial spots.

Again, thanks for any and all help.


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## Zak2883 (Apr 23, 2019)

Has anyone used a small expansion tank after the bib but before thier system to reduce pressure loss?


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