# Improving soil drainage



## Pezking7p (May 23, 2020)

As I get more into paying attention to my lawn, I'm noticing more about how my soil drains, which is that it doesn't.

Soil texture is sandy clay (about 20-30% sand, remainder is clay). Old farmland that was developed last year. To give you an idea of how poorly the drainage is, yesterday I turned on a sprinkler that puts out about 1/2" per hour to irrigate my drainage ditch and the surrounding grass. At the end of the hour, there was about 1" of water filling the entire drainage ditch and actually moving down the ditch at a good clip...most of the irrigation did not go into my soil (which explains why the ditch banks are horrible). Further, when it rains my lawn turns into a series of rivers, and I have a slight depression on the side yard that becomes a small pond about 15' in diameter (this pond forms when irrigating as well). I understand that there are irrigating techniques that I can use to minimize this issue, but they ARE a pain in the *** to implement.

My question is around how I can improve the overall drainage of my yard? I intend a pretty intensive aeration and overseeding in the fall, and I plan to top dress at that time.

1). What is the best material to top dress and fill aeration holes with in order to improve drainage? 
2). Is this even a viable strategy? 
3). Are there other things I should be focusing on, and ignore this altogether?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

1) Sand

3)And irrigation cylces. Run for 20min, wait 20, run for another 20min, etc.


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## Pezking7p (May 23, 2020)

Thanks @g-man. So you don't think it's futile to add sand for drainage?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Look for a thread from osuturfman about a Spartan field. In it he explains an approach to make fields drain better with sand channels and corrugated pipes as part of a MSU study. Also golf courses use sand trenches to improve drainage. Lastly, I did it in my backyard. I used to walk in 1in of water after a rain. I did just some simple sand trenches and solved that problem.


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## gm560 (Feb 22, 2018)

Something I did that would be easy to try is the drill and fill method. Get a bit like thisyou can throw on your drill and go to town in a place you need better drainage. Fill the holes with sand. I did it in some small spots that didn't drain well and had success.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

^ +1 golf courses have machines for doing that too. Ballistic did this with his yard.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=256455#p256455


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## wors (Feb 2, 2019)

What's your OM %? The reason clay drains slow is because of micropores. It has small "micropores" between the clay particles and holds onto water. Adding OM can help the clay particles form larger aggregates which will create macropores to allow the water drain better. Aeration will help but if OM is low it would be best to add the compost to improve the structure. An approach to do this is adding 1/4" of compost then aerating. Building up OM is a slow process and will take time.

More is not better in a single application. Applying too much compost without cultivating could cause a soil layer. The aeration helps to "mix" the compost and soil together.

https://extension.psu.edu/using-composts-to-improve-turf-performance

The sand cap method is using mixes of mainly sand with some silt/clay not just pure sand. The sand/silt/clay particle sizes were given in one of the links from g-man suggestion. This is important as not just any topdressing material will work.

http://www.stma.org/sites/stma/files/Conference/2012_Conference/Kowalewski_Presentation.pdf

Hope this helps.


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## Pezking7p (May 23, 2020)

Wow. What a rabbit hole. I've read a ton of stuff from osuturfman about sand amendment and aeration, drilling holes (vertical mulching), and the Spartan Cap Athletic Field presentation/studies are...amazing.

This pretty much tells me that sand is the way to go for me, though this doesn't necessarily fix the water infiltration issue, but hopefully over time aeration may help, through adding surface area of soil/sand contact, and improved root growth. I suppose that a sand layer will also act as a bit of a water ballast and slowly release some into the clay, so it might improve somewhat over the river that I currently have.

A 1/4" of sand for me costs $100, and areas where I have bad standing water I could do some targeted vertical mulching. In a year or two I might have 1" of sand, and maybe OK drainage in some areas.

I knew this information was on this forum somewhere, I just needed the help to find it all. Thank you guys a ton.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

The rabbit hole gets deeper once you start to look into sand types, sand particle sizes, laser level grade. Keep reading and come up with a plan of action. Post it and ping osuturfman. We will share ours thought.

If money is not a problem, there is also a really cool machine that will deposit sand 4-6in deep in rows. You have to contract the work out (no renting).


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## Pezking7p (May 23, 2020)

I'm about....2.5 weeks down the lawn rabbit hole TOTAL, so I have no doubt it runs DEEP.

I think I've done what I can for summer, I'm going to nurse my lawn through the best that I can, try to keep my new baby grass alive, and then have a big plan for fall because I am playing catch up. This is just one part of that plan, and have no doubt once I have it together I will be asking for a lot of input and advice.

If money was no option? I think for me it's more about time than money (I am a serial hobbyist, and I am carrying a few extra hobbies at the moment), but money obviously has a role to play. If I thought I would be in this house forever I would be more apt to make long-term improvements, such as in-ground irrigation or to do a full reno. Right now I just want to learn the basics and have a tier 1/2 lawn. I know it is possible with minimal input because my neighbors lawns are killing mine currently (though for most of them their sod has not gone through a summer yet).

I keep thinking I need to just go volunteer for GCI, his shop is about 10 minutes from my house. I keep meaning to go check out his reno that is in progress but I haven't gotten around to it.


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## CAB (Mar 21, 2019)

For drill'n'fill, I've had great success with a 3/4in x 3 foot carbide masonry sds+ bit, and backfilling with dry USGA sand. You don't have to drill the full 3ft everywhere, it's nice to stay standing and not have to lean over for <1ft deep holes.

Even if you can't backfill (don't have time, it's a massive puddle, or don't have USGA sand) then drilling deep holes can punch through multiple layers of hard-pan stuff.

A few hours ago, I went puddle hunting after a hard rain. My biggest sink hole had about 1ft of water in it, and after a few seconds of drilling I got bubbles of air and got to watch something magical, it basically drained like a toilet. All while my kids were jumping in it and wondered where the water went. No utilities, pipes or drains within 50' in any direction. Pretty sure it's buried construction trash.

$29 ~3ft drill bit
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4T1GZO

If you don't have a sds+ drill. I'm liking this one a lot. ~$193
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MF4YEIF

If you go with that drill, get the biggest battery you can find, like 12ah. ~$215
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLCD1LF

If y'all are curious what the sink hole looked like.


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## Pezking7p (May 23, 2020)

@CAB I don't have an SDS, and I was already plotting what I would use to drill the holes. I was planning to just buy a corded drill, think that'll work? I'm not keen on buying a drill for $300 that I'll only use once. Though I do see a corded SDS for ~$120.

What is that thing driving around your back yard? It looks lost...


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## GrassedIT (Jun 11, 2020)

Im confused why would you dril and note just use a corer?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

@GrassedIT a core aerator will do 3in (maybe 4 with a really good one). This drill process will go +12 in deep. This gets filled in sand to maintain a path for water and oxygen deeper into the root zone. In the golf turf industry it is called drill and fill.











A better system for athletic fields is a sand injector. It is not as gentle but it does create a firm playing surface.


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## DFW_Zoysia (May 31, 2019)

g-man said:


> The rabbit hole gets deeper once you start to look into sand types, sand particle sizes, laser level grade. Keep reading and come up with a plan of action. .


Oh oh, this is going to really catch the attention of my OCD. I sense a new obsession this summer taking me over....


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## CAB (Mar 21, 2019)

Pezking7p said:


> @CAB I don't have an SDS, and I was already plotting what I would use to drill the holes. I was planning to just buy a corded drill, think that'll work? I'm not keen on buying a drill for $300 that I'll only use once. Though I do see a corded SDS for ~$120.
> 
> What is that thing driving around your back yard? It looks lost...


Going corded may be a better option anyways, since those hammer drills eat batteries, especially with a massive bit.

That thing is my automower, husqvarna 430x. Can't recommend it enough. It replaced my 3100D and mclane. Runs fully autonomous every day.


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## GrassedIT (Jun 11, 2020)

g-man said:


> a core aerator will do 3in (maybe 4 with a really good one). This drill process will go +12 in deep. This gets filled in sand to maintain a path for water and oxygen deeper into the root zone. In the golf turf industry it is called drill and fill.


Thanks Gman.

This is sort of what I was expecting. to be said. Thank you. I have a small 70sqm yard, which has been in a 1/2000yr drought. turf receeded 3 inches from concrete and earthquake like cracks in the ground. Even the Kikuyu just died and dried in many spots. Once we moved in we did our best to save it.

Such is the nature of reactive clay. It was so bad it effected our foundations so now the house plaster needs attention. Oh well worse things can happen, knock on wood.

Ironically I live between 2 golf courses, one is the old original and another, along with a new Marina was designed for the world cup of golf, I forget the year.

Im finding with my rotary powered John Deere I just cant get the Kikuyu low enough before I start scalping it (at about 1.5") although my aussie mates tell me this is not a bad thing to do to encourage shorter leaf off the main runners. But I have one spot that is terribly shaded and dappled light at best, so Im over-sowing that with Fescue at the moment. In fact im going to over sow the entire small lawn with Fescue to get the result I want, if that doesnt work Im going to kill it all off and start again with a dark green golf course style blade.

Anyway back to this process, it must take a long time to do? If someone like myself wanted to do this to A) Improve my clay water table draining B) Improve my grass drainage, is it a LONG process? We are removing 10sqm of the lawn with pavers soon (due to being high foot traffic and not enjoying grass in the laundry when somebody (me haha) makes a mistake. So looking at small 50sqm.

I will likely switch to a push reel mower from the professional model walk behind John Deere I have had 9 years from a bigger yard (we only had it 2 years), lovely to use but total overkill on 50sqm if thats what I end up with.

We have aussies cutting 19mm and below with Kikuyu. I dont think I will ever get that good with a rotary mower. But due to shady1/3 lawn Im thinking either fescue mix or fescue all the way and a deep coration like this might do my lawn and my house some good.

Let me know your thoughts if you wouldnt mind. Appreciate it.

Kia Kaha brother, thank you for explaining.


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## gllong0808 (Aug 13, 2020)

Tagging on this discussion. I have an area of my property that is shaded multiple trees. The top soil is 4-6" deep a silty loam. Unfortunately, the top soil sits on thick clay.

Looking for suggestions on how to improve drainage. I can get seed to grow nicely, but if we experience significant rains like this summer, the area gets saturated and the grass dies off.

Thanks for any suggestions


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## CAB (Mar 21, 2019)

gllong0808 said:


> Tagging on this discussion. I have an area of my property that is shaded multiple trees. The top soil is 4-6" deep a silty loam. Unfortunately, the top soil sits on thick clay.
> 
> Looking for suggestions on how to improve drainage. I can get seed to grow nicely, but if we experience significant rains like this summer, the area gets saturated and the grass dies off.
> 
> Thanks for any suggestions


The three foot drill bit I listed above may do you wonders to get water moving through the clay, depending on how thick the impermeable clay is. My sink hole that magically drained was the proof I needed. I've also learned it's a double edged sword, some areas now drain TOO well and dry out.

If you're wanting guaranteed immediate results, then a properly built french drain is the magic bullet. USGA greens have a network of them below the rootzone mix.

This guy fixes other's french drains, so he's on the 'done right' end of the spectrum.





Here's a DIY'er that uses the same principals.


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## VALawnNoob (Jun 9, 2020)

I am super fascinated by this as I need to improve my lawn soil drainage (clay). However it would be tough to convince my wife to spend $300 on a drill I may never use again. However I do have a $40 proplugger that will go anywhere between 4-6" with wider holes. Would I get similar effect pulling plugs with proplugger and backfill with sand or is the drill deeper but smaller holes significantly better?

I don't want to waste my time pulling hundreds of plugs with proplugger if it won't see any improvements

Lastly where should I source my sand if HD/Lowe's/TSS/Ewing/ACE are my big store options?


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## CAB (Mar 21, 2019)

VALawnNoob said:


> I am super fascinated by this as I need to improve my lawn soil drainage (clay). However it would be tough to convince my wife to spend $300 on a drill I may never use again. However I do have a $40 proplugger that will go anywhere between 4-6" with wider holes. Would I get similar effect pulling plugs with proplugger and backfill with sand or is the drill deeper but smaller holes significantly better?
> 
> I don't want to waste my time pulling hundreds of plugs with proplugger if it won't see any improvements
> 
> Lastly where should I source my sand if HD/Lowe's/TSS/Ewing/ACE are my big store options?


Around 8"-14" is where I would typically finish punching through the harder clay, so it all depends on what your soil profile looks like. Corded drills can lower cost.

I get my USGA sand from riversand inc ~$760/truckload delivered(18tons), I'm sure you can find mason/coarse sand up by you. I see your store options, but different locations carry different stuff.


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## gm560 (Feb 22, 2018)

VALawnNoob said:


> I am super fascinated by this as I need to improve my lawn soil drainage (clay). However it would be tough to convince my wife to spend $300 on a drill I may never use again. However I do have a $40 proplugger that will go anywhere between 4-6" with wider holes. Would I get similar effect pulling plugs with proplugger and backfill with sand or is the drill deeper but smaller holes significantly better?
> 
> I don't want to waste my time pulling hundreds of plugs with proplugger if it won't see any improvements
> 
> Lastly where should I source my sand if HD/Lowe's/TSS/Ewing/ACE are my big store options?


I'm not sure what $300 drill you are referring to. I just use my regular 20 volt drill.


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## CAB (Mar 21, 2019)

He may have been referring to what I linked earlier.

"
$29 ~3ft drill bit
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4T1GZO

If you don't have a sds+ drill. I'm liking this one a lot. ~$193
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MF4YEIF

If you go with that drill, get the biggest battery you can find, like 12ah. ~$215
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GLCD1LF
"

"
Going corded may be a better option anyways, since those hammer drills eat batteries, especially with a massive bit.
"


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