# Laying TifTuf Sod - Don't want to mess up



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

My fiancé and I bought our house almost a year ago and the builder laid Centipede sod with minimal prep work on our ground (I have pulled 2x4s out of the yard) and it has not held up well from the start with poor prep and lack of water before we moved in. I am preparing my yard to start over and lay Tiftuf Bermuda sod come March or April. I have some questions and am open to any general advice because I am excited to learn and don't want to mess up the beginning piece. My soil is very compacted, so I plan to hire someone to come in and break it up some, remove the debris like rocks and what not and keep a good grade of it before I lay sod.

•	If weeds become an issue how can I try to limit that? I am going to try and butt the edges as tight as I possibly can but I assume I would just need to pick weeds as they appear because I can't use chemicals yet?
•	I am pending a soil test that I should have results for next week. When should I make any amendments? Before grade work, before sod is laid or after the sod is laid? I can upload my results once they come back from the UGA extension office
•	How soon can I fertilize? I plan on following the Bermuda Bible once rooted but should I put down any starter fertilizer or regular fertilizer before or shortly after the sod is laid? 
•	When walking on the dirt to lay the sod is there a best way to not leave impressions or is rolling afterwards the solution to this?
•	After I amend my soil and have enough levels of Phosphorous and potassium what NPK rate should I use?
•	How early can I mow it after I lay it? I have seen some places say to mow it when it is a ready height and others say to wait for it to be fully rooted
•	Anything else I am not thinking about?

I appreciate any advice for this because I am both incredibly excited for a nice lawn to maintain and cut consistently but also nervous to unknowingly mess it up.

Also I am interested in creating a lawn journal for this process would this be appropriate here or when should I start it to document my yards progress and if anyone is in


----------



## TifTufTrent (Jun 16, 2021)

A year ago I was in your shoes, staring down a new TifTuf install myself. I got an Associates degree in turf management from ABAC in 1999, but most of that info had long since left my noggin. Loaded with similar questions, I found this site to be extremely beneficial as a one-stop-shop to guide me along and refresh many concepts I'd learned long ago. If you're anything like I was, I assume you're a bit anxious, nervous, doubtful, and excited all at the same time. From your post however, I can tell you're going to do great because you're already asking great questions! I also think you'll be quite happy with the TifTuf. So far for me it has lived up to its selling points of drought/shade tolerance, and holding it's color longer than other varieties of Bermuda. For reference, I live a little North of you in Henry County, and my lawn still has some green to it, while the rest of the Bermuda I see around here is undoubtedly dormant brown. This first pic was taken 01/16/22 just before the snow began to fall up here. The second was in August 2021, 3 months after install. 




I basically view Bermuda as a weed that'll grow just about anywhere there's enough sun and warmth. Get enough of it together and it makes for a great turf. With that in mind, you can relax a little. It's hard to screw up. Give it enough sun and plenty of water that first growing season and it should root fine, then just follow the fertility plan.

Now on to your questions. My yard was also compacted. We simply hit it with a Harley rake and incorporated top soil and lime. Use the screwdriver test to evaluate compaction and moister level. If you have the option of installing rolls rather than squares, go with the rolls. It looks a ton better and you'll have far fewer seams to deal with. Once laid, make sure it's rolled real good with a sod roller, then keep it pretty wet for the next few weeks. In the meantime, stay off of it. Every time you walk on it while it's really wet you run the risk of leaving foot impressions that will increase the amount of bumps and pits in your yard. After a few weeks, go give a little upward tug on the corner of a piece of sod and see how the roots are establishing. I wouldn't put a mower (especially a rotary)on it until those roots are firmly established and the sod won't lift easily. Otherwise, the vacuum that rotary blade creates will suck the sod piece up into the blade and chop it to bits. As others will also recommend on here, consider your first reel mower purchase. You won't regret it, and your grass will thank you!

Great job on the soil test from UGA extension! The results from it will answer all of your questions regarding fertility requirements and the specific amendments to be made prior to and after the sod is installed. The maintenance plan they recommend will be good for the first 2-3 years, at which time they recommend another soil test. If they recommend adding lime, do it now (ASAP) as Jan-Feb is the best time for this. I imagine it will likely tell you to incorporate 10 lbs of 10-10-10 per thousand prior to install, then 3 lbs per thousand of 34-0-0 monthly through August, then back to 10-10-10 in Sept. That's what mine was, and I've seen others that say the same, but your report might be completely different. Either way, follow their recommendations.

Regarding weeds, the long-term key is a good preemergent plan. You however need to hold off on applications for a bit. I would skip the Spring application and give the roots time to establish. I think the recommendation is to wait for at least 6 weeks after the sod goes down, so you should be good to put it out by the time you would do your Fall application. You'll find that people on this forum have differing opinions about post emergent control of weeds. I personally prefer to hand pull the few I do get, and I've also used the selective herbicides you can find from Lowe's, Home Depot. I personally don't believe I have enough of a weed problem to warrant buying the non-consumer grade stuff yet. My word of caution to you if you do use the big box store products however, is to pay particular attention to the label. When it says don't use at temps above 85, don't do it! If it says water it in afterwards, or make sure grass is wet at time of application, make sure it is. Otherwise, you'll be disappointed and possibly damage your turf a little.

I hope that helps a little, and again, utilize this site for further information. As you'll see from my post count, I don't post very often, and mostly just read. It has been my experience however that the folks on here are always willing to help and seem to be the kind of men you'd like to have a glass of bourbon with.

Good luck!


----------



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

TifTufTrent said:


> A year ago I was in your shoes, staring down a new TifTuf install myself. I got an Associates degree in turf management from ABAC in 1999, but most of that info had long since left my noggin. Loaded with similar questions, I found this site to be extremely beneficial as a one-stop-shop to guide me along and refresh many concepts I'd learned long ago. If you're anything like I was, I assume you're a bit anxious, nervous, doubtful, and excited all at the same time. From your post however, I can tell you're going to do great because you're already asking great questions! I also think you'll be quite happy with the TifTuf. So far for me it has lived up to its selling points of drought/shade tolerance, and holding it's color longer than other varieties of Bermuda. For reference, I live a little North of you in Henry County, and my lawn still has some green to it, while the rest of the Bermuda I see around here is undoubtedly dormant brown. This first pic was taken 01/16/22 just before the snow began to fall up here. The second was in August 2021, 3 months after install.


How you described me is spot on. I am so excited to have this lawn to care for but so nervous to get to that established point.



TifTufTrent said:


>


Your yard looks amazing!



TifTufTrent said:


> I basically view Bermuda as a weed that'll grow just about anywhere there's enough sun and warmth. Get enough of it together and it makes for a great turf. With that in mind, you can relax a little. It's hard to screw up. Give it enough sun and plenty of water that first growing season and it should root fine, then just follow the fertility plan.
> 
> Now on to your questions. My yard was also compacted. We simply hit it with a Harley rake and incorporated top soil and lime. Use the screwdriver test to evaluate compaction and moister level. If you have the option of installing rolls rather than squares, go with the rolls. It looks a ton better and you'll have far fewer seams to deal with. Once laid, make sure it's rolled real good with a sod roller, then keep it pretty wet for the next few weeks. In the meantime, stay off of it. Every time you walk on it while it's really wet you run the risk of leaving foot impressions that will increase the amount of bumps and pits in your yard. After a few weeks, go give a little upward tug on the corner of a piece of sod and see how the roots are establishing. I wouldn't put a mower (especially a rotary)on it until those roots are firmly established and the sod won't lift easily. Otherwise, the vacuum that rotary blade creates will suck the sod piece up into the blade and chop it to bits. As others will also recommend on here, consider your first reel mower purchase. You won't regret it, and your grass will thank you!


Yeah I would love a reel mower and that will be my next big purchase after this. I am going to go with the rolls from Super Sod for that reason to try and limit my seams.



TifTufTrent said:


> Great job on the soil test from UGA extension! The results from it will answer all of your questions regarding fertility requirements and the specific amendments to be made prior to and after the sod is installed. The maintenance plan they recommend will be good for the first 2-3 years, at which time they recommend another soil test. If they recommend adding lime, do it now (ASAP) as Jan-Feb is the best time for this. I imagine it will likely tell you to incorporate 10 lbs of 10-10-10 per thousand prior to install, then 3 lbs per thousand of 34-0-0 monthly through August, then back to 10-10-10 in Sept. That's what mine was, and I've seen others that say the same, but your report might be completely different. Either way, follow their recommendations.


I didn't know they gave a full maintenance plan wow. I thought it would just list the deficiencies and anything to be applied once. This is very useful thank you!



TifTufTrent said:


> Regarding weeds, the long-term key is a good preemergent plan. You however need to hold off on applications for a bit. I would skip the Spring application and give the roots time to establish. I think the recommendation is to wait for at least 6 weeks after the sod goes down, so you should be good to put it out by the time you would do your Fall application. You'll find that people on this forum have differing opinions about post emergent control of weeds. I personally prefer to hand pull the few I do get, and I've also used the selective herbicides you can find from Lowe's, Home Depot. I personally don't believe I have enough of a weed problem to warrant buying the non-consumer grade stuff yet. My word of caution to you if you do use the big box store products however, is to pay particular attention to the label. When it says don't use at temps above 85, don't do it! If it says water it in afterwards, or make sure grass is wet at time of application, make sure it is. Otherwise, you'll be disappointed and possibly damage your turf a little.
> 
> I hope that helps a little, and again, utilize this site for further information. As you'll see from my post count, I don't post very often, and mostly just read. It has been my experience however that the folks on here are always willing to help and seem to be the kind of men you'd like to have a glass of bourbon with.
> 
> Good luck!


What are your thoughts on when to apply fertilizer to the Sod? Is box store fertilizer fine or should I be looking for anything different?

Thank you for the reply it helps immensely and I appreciate it a ton and look forward to being more involved on this forum.


----------



## TifTufTrent (Jun 16, 2021)

Thanks for the yard props! Literally, all I've done is followed the UGA Extension recommendations/plan that came with the soil test results to meet the fertility and pH needs. I applied them in the months they recommended and at the rates they recommended. As you can see from my 2nd photo, In my opinion whatever version of 10-10-10 or 34-0-0 Lowe's had on its shelf worked just fine, and I have no current motivation to do anything different this year.

Regarding your question about timing of fertilizer application. Again, just follow the soil test recommended months, and make sure the grass is completely dry before you spread it. Then, make dang sure you water it in ASAP. With that in mind, I typically tried to time my applications around forecasts for rain. If I knew a thunder boomer was expected at noon on a Saturday, I'd put it out at 11:00 that morning. Otherwise, you'll be raising your water bill.

Lastly, start thinking about your irrigation plan, and invest in a rain gauge. Once the sod is established, you'll want to ensure it gets a minimum of 1 inch per week. I use a series of garden hoses, sprinklers, and a 4 way programmable manifold you can find on Amazon.


----------



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

TifTufTrent said:


> Thanks for the yard props! Literally, all I've done is followed the UGA Extension recommendations/plan that came with the soil test results to meet the fertility and pH needs. I applied them in the months they recommended and at the rates they recommended. As you can see from my 2nd photo, In my opinion whatever version of 10-10-10 or 34-0-0 Lowe's had on its shelf worked just fine, and I have no current motivation to do anything different this year.
> 
> Regarding your question about timing of fertilizer application. Again, just follow the soil test recommended months, and make sure the grass is completely dry before you spread it. Then, make dang sure you water it in ASAP. With that in mind, I typically tried to time my applications around forecasts for rain. If I knew a thunder boomer was expected at noon on a Saturday, I'd put it out at 11:00 that morning. Otherwise, you'll be raising your water bill.
> 
> Lastly, start thinking about your irrigation plan, and invest in a rain gauge. Once the sod is established, you'll want to ensure it gets a minimum of 1 inch per week. I use a series of garden hoses, sprinklers, and a 4 way programmable manifold you can find on Amazon.


Fortunately the house has an in ground irrigation system but I want to invest in a gauge or tuna cans to find out how much water it puts out.


----------



## FATC1TY (Jul 12, 2017)

I laid TifTuf a few years back, im even more north of you guys just south of Atlanta, and looking back, I would suggest making sure the prep before sod is good.

I wouldn't suggest tilling much, and compacted soil isn't a bad thing to start IMO. Compaction is mostly over assumed, as a really lost base is even worse. I had my yard removed of lots of rock, asphalt, and brick from building.

Some of the areas I had regraded, have settled or eroded somewhat.

I highly suggest watering and rolling your area before sod laying. I didn't lay my own, but had my contractor install and get it all prepped.

Quick to take, follow normal set up with new sod and you'll be off to the races mowing in 3-4 weeks easily.

I didn't have any weed issues. Fresh sod is usually treated well, especially if they cut it good. Mine was cut that morning and delivered less than 4 hours from the field, and it showed.

Used a roller every few days to flatten well, I tried not to soak too much, and would roll it after some watering to avoid any divots.

I scalped and fertilized maybe 7-8 weeks after laying it down?



This is my side yard next to my neighbors 419 cut with a service. Around .4 inches. I think it was from early fall, late summer.


----------



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

FATC1TY said:


> I laid TifTuf a few years back, im even more north of you guys just south of Atlanta, and looking back, I would suggest making sure the prep before sod is good.
> 
> I wouldn't suggest tilling much, and compacted soil isn't a bad thing to start IMO. Compaction is mostly over assumed, as a really lost base is even worse. I had my yard removed of lots of rock, asphalt, and brick from building.
> 
> ...


I am quoting some landscapers now to weight the cost vs the benefits. Is there anything you recommend making sure they do? Definitely will make sure rolling is included. When did you have yours laid? I am hoping to do mid March but could that be too early?


----------



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

FATC1TY said:


> I laid TifTuf a few years back, im even more north of you guys just south of Atlanta, and looking back, I would suggest making sure the prep before sod is good.
> 
> I wouldn't suggest tilling much, and compacted soil isn't a bad thing to start IMO. Compaction is mostly over assumed, as a really lost base is even worse. I had my yard removed of lots of rock, asphalt, and brick from building.
> 
> ...


also amazing yard. Total line domination there!


----------



## Redtwin (Feb 9, 2019)

@SouthernTiftuf You can lay bermuda sod any time of the year. @FATC1TY The color on the TifTuf next to the scalped 419 is super nice!


----------



## FATC1TY (Jul 12, 2017)

I had mine laid around may I think it was. I left out of town for 4-5 days the day after it was completed.

As far as prep, I just had fill dirt brought in for grading and whatnot. I didn't roll before but I did pick rocks out when the guys left. I rolled my own sod after they did in two directions.

Installing sod is an enormous amount of work, and while i know everyone's different, I will ALWAYS have more money than desire to lay my own sod of any significant amount. More than a pallet and I'm calling someone who's a pro.

I would water the dirt. Roll it, and have it dry out enough to walk on for install. If you wanted to get fancy you could layer in some fertilizer or some soil amendments but not needed.

Take a soil test before. Lay the sod and see what comes back. Use a basic balanced fertilizer to start, and just mow and enjoy the yard. I wouldn't get too fancy. Come end of summer- you'll be prepped for soil corrections, and weed control for the fall.


----------



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

FATC1TY said:


> Installing sod is an enormous amount of work, and while i know everyone's different, I will ALWAYS have more money than desire to lay my own sod of any significant amount. More than a pallet and I'm calling someone who's a pro.


Yeah initially I was thinking of doing it myself but once I really started to think about how long laying 11 pallets would take it to not save that much money I started to change my tune.


----------



## Redtwin (Feb 9, 2019)

Just don't expect it to look perfect the first season. Think of it as the awkward adolescent stage the first season and then the teenage stage the second season. Things will really start to look nice that third season.


----------



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

Redtwin said:


> Just don't expect it to look perfect the first season. Think of it as the awkward adolescent stage the first season and then the teenage stage the second season. Things will really start to look nice that third season.


I need to remember this because sometimes I can become upset when something is just good not great already. Question about having Bermuda sod laid year round, I am in Middle Georgia so in mid March will the sod begin taking root as if it were the spring or would it be like laying dormant Bermuda and take longer to root?


----------



## Redtwin (Feb 9, 2019)

If laid dormant it will take longer to root but it will. I don't think you will have any issues doing it in March. I laid my Empire Zoysia dormant last January and it rooted just fine once the weather warmed up. I had to get something down to help with washout but it was also a much more enjoyable experience in the cooler weather. If Zoysia can do it, I'm sure Tiftuf would have no issues at all getting established. My 419 in the backyard was installed a section at a time throughout all seasons as well.


----------



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

Redtwin said:


> If laid dormant it will take longer to root but it will. I don't think you will have any issues doing it in March. I laid my Empire Zoysia dormant last January and it rooted just fine once the weather warmed up. I had to get something down to help with washout but it was also a much more enjoyable experience in the cooler weather. If Zoysia can do it, I'm sure Tiftuf would have no issues at all getting established. My 419 in the backyard was installed a section at a time throughout all seasons as well.


I have the sod scheduled to be installed on 3/18 so hopefully it is warm enough then to root. Is laying it in the colder months the same principle as the summer to get it watered, not soaked but will just require less water since there will be less evaporation?


----------



## Redtwin (Feb 9, 2019)

Yeah, it won't be pulling too much water so you basically want to just keep it from drying out without turning it into a swamp.


----------



## klsmith259 (Oct 6, 2020)

The sod company/installers should provide basic guidance of how to care for it over the next 30 days. This will help in the meantime.

https://blog.supersod.com/installing-dormant-sod


----------



## FATC1TY (Jul 12, 2017)

SouthernTiftuf said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> > Installing sod is an enormous amount of work, and while i know everyone's different, I will ALWAYS have more money than desire to lay my own sod of any significant amount. More than a pallet and I'm calling someone who's a pro.
> ...


I had 12-13 pallets laid… you have no idea how much work that would be, especially if you couldn't move the pallets easily around the area of install.

I had a lot more work and machines going for two days, so I don't know exactly what is fair pricing for just sod and prep, but there's not a chance I will ever attempt it. Doing it above 60* degrees is another wrinkle that isn't worth negotiating.


----------



## FATC1TY (Jul 12, 2017)

SouthernTiftuf said:


> Redtwin said:
> 
> 
> > Just don't expect it to look perfect the first season. Think of it as the awkward adolescent stage the first season and then the teenage stage the second season. Things will really start to look nice that third season.
> ...


You'll be rooting pretty nicely. Your timing will be excellent. If we manage a decently warm finish to this winter, you'll be mowing so much in late April you'll be searching PGR here.

Get it laid down, water it as needed, and once you start mowing, it'll settle in. If you felt like pushing it, you could level lightly around Labor Day, and ride into the fall with some prep out of the way. Obviously a prime summer season would be ideal, with enough rain, no set backs with bugs or fungus. Both of which you shouldn't have issues with. If you buy certified blue tagged TifTuf from a larger grower it'll be doing well into the fall, and outside of light fertilization, you can apply some premergent and start on longer establishment.


----------



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

klsmith259 said:


> The sod company/installers should provide basic guidance of how to care for it over the next 30 days. This will help in the meantime.
> 
> https://blog.supersod.com/installing-dormant-sod


This article was great and helpful thank you! I'll also ask them when they lay it for what they recommend.


----------



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

@FATC1TY yeah it should be certified. I am hoping it's a warm March and it can get rooted quickly and start mowing. I have decided to use landscapers because laying 11 pallets by myself doesn't sound enjoyable the more I think about it. I think I got a fair price but not sure if it's normal to share that here or not.


----------



## klsmith259 (Oct 6, 2020)

By yourself, 11 pallets would take 2 - 3 days and you would be beat. Its definitely worth having landscapers lay the sod.


----------



## FATC1TY (Jul 12, 2017)

SouthernTiftuf said:


> @FATC1TY yeah it should be certified. I am hoping it's a warm March and it can get rooted quickly and start mowing. I have decided to use landscapers because laying 11 pallets by myself doesn't sound enjoyable the more I think about it. I think I got a fair price but not sure if it's normal to share that here or not.


I had a wide scope of work- I paid a guy who had 8 guys show up for 3600 a day.

This included them climbing trees to trim and limb, cutting down trees, grinding stumps, grading, removal of debris, installing drainage and tying in downspouts, removal of my existing landscape and installing new beds and plants/trees.

I had skid steers, stump grinders, dump trucks, tandem trailers, limb and tree shredders, and haul out of everything. They also installed everything.

If being honest - prep and grading, install and haul off of everything- I'd say north of 1000 is fair.


----------



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

FATC1TY said:


> SouthernTiftuf said:
> 
> 
> > @FATC1TY yeah it should be certified. I am hoping it's a warm March and it can get rooted quickly and start mowing. I have decided to use landscapers because laying 11 pallets by myself doesn't sound enjoyable the more I think about it. I think I got a fair price but not sure if it's normal to share that here or not.
> ...


Jeez how long did all of that take. I have a quote for $3,800 and $2,640 of that is for the actual sod and the rest is labor which I think is fair. I checked the sod on super sod and it comes out to around that price itself.


----------



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

klsmith259 said:


> By yourself, 11 pallets would take 2 - 3 days and you would be beat. Its definitely worth having landscapers lay the sod.


Agreed and I've come to find out it isn't as expensive as I thought it would be.


----------



## FATC1TY (Jul 12, 2017)

SouthernTiftuf said:


> FATC1TY said:
> 
> 
> > SouthernTiftuf said:
> ...


Two days, all inclusive for work done. Did not include my sod pricing which was significantly less than retail. I had my entire landscape removed and replaced. 2 tandem loads of fill dirt brought in, 2 trees removed and ground out completely, 3 trees had to be climbed and limbed and removed, etc. ditch witch. Drainage basins, pop ups, fence removal and replacement, and many other things.

Wasn't the greatest deal, but dealt with one person, and it was all handled working 48 hours from start to finish, and I was mostly happy with the outcome.


----------



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

I was doing some research on fungus and grub prevention earlier. When my sod is laid how soon should I start applications? It seems like fungus prevention is done monthly with alternating applications (3 and 11 seems to be what's recommended) but not sure how often grub application should be? Is there any downsides to application and should these be applied with my monthly fertilizer apps or 2 weeks later?


----------



## FATC1TY (Jul 12, 2017)

I would wait, the sod should come with stuff applied on it, but I would suggest looking into a fungicide, especially if you'll be watering a bunch and the weather turns for the worst in terms of fungal growth.

Not sure how high that pressure would be laying dormant and in this weather, but from spring on- you would definitely want fungicide. Grubs? Probably not a huge worry.


----------



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

@FATC1TY I was thinking I would just apply some group 11 like disease ex when it is laid or a few days after then in late April apply Eagle 20EW for any DS and a different mode of action and then either alternate the MOAs or see how it goes throughout the summer. Was going to add grub preventative in May as well just to be safe once it gets closer to summer.

Is there any issues with this? Can fungicide hurt the sod at all? I know I have heard propiconazole can stunt bermuda growth so I wanted to avoid that with the Eagle 20EW.


----------



## FATC1TY (Jul 12, 2017)

SouthernTiftuf said:


> @FATC1TY I was thinking I would just apply some group 11 like disease ex when it is laid or a few days after then in late April apply Eagle 20EW for any DS and a different mode of action and then either alternate the MOAs or see how it goes throughout the summer. Was going to add grub preventative in May as well just to be safe once it gets closer to summer.
> 
> Is there any issues with this? Can fungicide hurt the sod at all? I know I have heard propiconazole can stunt bermuda growth so I wanted to avoid that with the Eagle 20EW.


The disease X probably won't be a bad idea, so things along the line of Heritage G and such would be fine too.

I'd look maybe at some 3336 or even some Armada.

Put down the fungicide, water it on your cycle, then I'd put some some Bifen xts or something and let it ride into the spring.


----------



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

FATC1TY said:


> SouthernTiftuf said:
> 
> 
> > @FATC1TY I was thinking I would just apply some group 11 like disease ex when it is laid or a few days after then in late April apply Eagle 20EW for any DS and a different mode of action and then either alternate the MOAs or see how it goes throughout the summer. Was going to add grub preventative in May as well just to be safe once it gets closer to summer.
> ...


Yeah once it got more into spring and bugs came out I planned on applying Bifen IT monthly to keep mosquitos away. They're bad in middle Georgia and really make you want to go inside.


----------



## SouthernTiftuf (12 mo ago)

Got my soil results back today. The day the sod is laid will be on March 18th. Should I be applying the 10-10-10 fertilizer before it is laid on my current grass/dirt, after the current yard is ripped out or on the sod after it is laid? Or since it is March wait until it is a little more green? My PH seems a little high for Bermuda is this an issue?

Front yard


Side yard


Back yard


----------

