# MP Rotator Renovation



## SaltyBouy (Jun 3, 2020)

Hey folks,

I have an old system that I am going to root up and redo. The system is old and breaks almost every current good practice in the book.

I have 45 psi at the faucet
bucket test 15 GPM
I cannot fit a 5 gallon bucket under any of my faucets so I went with a 2 gallon for the test
60/8 seconds x 2 gallons - 15 GPM

I am looking at a mixture of mp1000 and mp2000 maybe a mp3000 or two (mostly mp2000) 
A mp2000 @ 180º with 40 psi is .75 GPM so I think I can safely put up to ten heads per zone even with a few at 360 @ 1.5 GPM i'm in the pocket.

Does the flow make sense?
Can I reuse old pvc or go all new or any other nifty alternatives?
More or less heads/zones? I would like to use the three zones that are already there. 
While I have it all dug up any other things to add or consider? 
The top right area is lower and has had drainage issues but I think that is because of the ridiculous plumbing ending there but should I consider something for that?
I also want to kill and cut out the sod and grade the area, do that after irrigation...carefully?

Here is original layout, pretty complicated :roll:



Here is my initial plan for the plumbing and some head configurations:



I will look to dial in head to head spacing next but I kinda wanted to make sure the big stuff was sorted before I went further down the rabbit hole.

Off to buy a protractor and some graph paper, or maybe just a copy of photoshop...
Thanks for reading!


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## smurg (May 30, 2018)

Download AutoCAD and use it for free as a student. I would install a branch off the main/house connection instead of running it off a hose bib that's been regulated before coming into the house; 45 psi is quite low.


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## Wiley (Dec 2, 2019)

I agree. You want to try and tie from the main before it is reduced at the hose bib. Another thing to consider is having a primary trench for your main runs for all three zones. This will make for an easier clean-up, less trenching and a smoother transition from your valves.


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## NELawn (May 7, 2019)

The only suggestionsI can give is with the sprinkler heads.

I designed my system this year with MP1000's and ended up switching to MP2000's and got better throw and better adjustability. The MP2000's were great, the MP1000's seemed terrible. I wouldn't go less than MP2000's.

Also for a given pressure, always go up one head, try not to use a head at its max throw. I had to go MP3000 in two heads because once installed the MP2000's were not cutting it. It's easier to adjust a head down then get it more pressure.

I'd also try and design for better than head to head coverage, if your heads are 15' apart. Get a head that will do 20' and just adjust it down, don't assume the specs in the charts are right.


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## SaltyBouy (Jun 3, 2020)

smurg said:


> Download AutoCAD and use it for free as a student. I would install a branch off the main/house connection instead of running it off a hose bib that's been regulated before coming into the house; 45 psi is quite low.


Do I need to do a plugin with AutoCad like LandFX or can I get by without one? Land FX looks pretty awesome.

I have a irrigation system already with 6 zones two in the back and 4 in the front which connects to the main water supply. I did the pressure test at the hose bib per most setup instructions to get an idea of the psi and gpm so I would know what I can add.
Should I check pressure somewhere else in the system for a more accurate read?

Here are my zones, I think its tapped into the back area with the two zones. please excuse the weeds...
(Four zones up front 3 for the lawn and one for a drip for hedges and roses along the house)





Thanks for the help


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## SaltyBouy (Jun 3, 2020)

Wiley said:


> I agree. You want to try and tie from the main before it is reduced at the hose bib. Another thing to consider is having a primary trench for your main runs for all three zones. This will make for an easier clean-up, less trenching and a smoother transition from your valves.


Definitely gotta do a main trench, makes a ton of sense!


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## SaltyBouy (Jun 3, 2020)

NELawn said:


> The only suggestionsI can give is with the sprinkler heads.
> 
> I designed my system this year with MP1000's and ended up switching to MP2000's and got better throw and better adjustability. The MP2000's were great, the MP1000's seemed terrible. I wouldn't go less than MP2000's.
> 
> ...


Thanks!
As began spacing things out I had been reading about overshooting head to head (thanks for the tip) and found that I would probably not use as many 1000's and more 2000' and maybe a zone of 3000's.

Looking to go as triangular as possible.


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## Bermuda_Triangle (Sep 20, 2019)

@SaltyBouy did you do anything special to get such a high resolution? I tried both Google Maps and Google Earth and the image of my house is almost worthless when zoomed in.

May be worth finding someone with a drone to capture an aerial view.


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## SaltyBouy (Jun 3, 2020)

Bermuda_Triangle said:


> @SaltyBouy did you do anything special to get such a high resolution? I tried both Google Maps and Google Earth and the image of my house is almost worthless when zoomed in.
> 
> May be worth finding someone with a drone to capture an aerial view.


It was zoomed in from Google maps. Maybe a newer satellite took the picture of my yard?

I have a coworker who has a nice drone and everything gopro. Once the yard looks better I'll call him over for a beer.


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