# Just got my first soil sample results



## BurtMacklinFBI (Jul 17, 2021)

I'm not here to ask what I need to throw down on my lawn to correct these results (however I'm open to suggestions) What I am looking for is info on how to understand this (mostly the recommendations section)

Lime recommendation suggests 69lbs per 1K sqft (50 per app)...... So.... is 69lbs what's recommended for the year..or does that mean that much is needed to correct the imbalance?

As for calcium, magnesium and potassium, ( and this is gonna sound super noob... cause I am) How do I bump these numbers up? I can go grab bags of lesco products and throw em down but how do I calculate how much product I need to get myself in the correct range.

I have no issues figuring out the labels on preventive products such as Quinclorac and Prodiamine because it's as simple as.. here's the product, do your math based on your sqft'age haha. As for fertalizer (in the past) I was clearly just taking a shot in the dark and thru down 24-0-11 twice a year. It seemed to help and my lawn looked decent enough. I did level and overseed last fall and used an 18-24-12 starter which I'm hoping is why my Phosphorus is really high. But trying to figure out how to correct my levels is making my brain hurt and again... I'm a noob so its probably easy and I'm just not getting it.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

The lime recommendation is what is recommended to get your soil to the target pH, which is probably 6.5. The soil test should have a section where it gives recommendations on nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (and maybe other nutrients). Those are the recommended amounts for the year for each 1000 sq ft. Fertilize at appropriate times. The NPK numbers on the bag are percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in that product. So multiply the weight of the bag by the percentage to see how much of that nutrient is in it. You should limit applications to one pound of a nutrient per 1000 sq ft in a monthly application. Most fertilizer for cool season grass should be applied in the fall.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Ok, just now seeing the soil test. You need a fertilizer with nitrogen and potassium but not phosphorus. See what's available around you. If you don't find anything with roughly the same amount of nitrogen and potassium, see if you can find a fertilizer with just nitrogen and one that is just potassium. The lime will increase your calcium.


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## nikmasteed (Apr 30, 2020)

+1 ^

I'll add that especially while just learning, don't worry much about calcium or magnesium, they are micronutrients that are used in much smaller quantities. The lime is primarily aimed at improving the pH but will also raise the calcium. Focus on P and K levels (macronutrients). While you're learning, keeping it simple is your friend. There's no magic number for fertilizer that will get you into optimum for K in a single application or within a single year. You just want to head in the right direction, it's a marathon not a sprint.

You were asking about other discussions about soil tests. That's in the soil fertility forum, plenty of good conversation there you can learn from.
https://thelawnforum.com/viewforum.php?f=24


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## BurtMacklinFBI (Jul 17, 2021)

for fertilizer, is there a certain amount I need to apply to get myself into the correct range or in other words to correct deficiencies or am I supposed to just follow max rate in the product and hope to correct deficiencies over time?


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## BurtMacklinFBI (Jul 17, 2021)

nikmasteed said:


> +1 ^
> 
> I'll add that especially while just learning, don't worry much about calcium or magnesium, they are micronutrients that are used in much smaller quantities. The lime is primarily aimed at improving the pH but will also raise the calcium. Focus on P and K levels (macronutrients). While you're learning, keeping it simple is your friend. There's no magic number for fertilizer that will get you into optimum for K in a single application or within a single year. You just want to head in the right direction, it's a marathon not a sprint.
> 
> ...


Thanks! I guess I'm over thinking this. I was typing out my last reply and got side tracked with stuff around the house so I posted the reply before seeing this.


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## BurtMacklinFBI (Jul 17, 2021)

Also worth mentioning there was no Nitrogen levels and that was noted that it wasn't included on the results because Nitrogen is to "finicky" to measure accurately. Not that it couldn't be measured but the samples and the results 3 weeks later wouldn't be a good representation of my lawn over time. I forget how they worded this and I can't for the life of me find where they said this in the email haha. I have noticed others results do include Nitrogen levels but where I went thru (UNH) doesn't include them.


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## nikmasteed (Apr 30, 2020)

BurtMacklinFBI said:


> Also worth mentioning there was no Nitrogen levels and that was noted that it wasn't included on the results because Nitrogen is to "finicky" to measure accurately. Not that it couldn't be measured but the samples and the results 3 weeks later wouldn't be a good representation of my lawn over time. I forget how they worded this and I can't for the life of me find where they said this in the email haha. I have noticed others results do include Nitrogen levels but where I went thru (UNH) doesn't include them.


Yep, "volatile" might have been how they described it. That's correct, providing N results in the soil test isn't particularly helpful, no matter what your soil health is you need to apply N on an ongoing basis. Some tests do show it. I go lighter with N in the spring, pretty minimal in summer, and heavy in the fall. Many others do similarly.

Afraid I'm not the one to help on applying liquid lime, perhaps others will chime in there.
Good luck and welcome!


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## BurtMacklinFBI (Jul 17, 2021)

I appreciate everyone's replies!

Volatile was definitely the wording.

any enlightenment on the 50lbs max per application per 1000sqft suggestion in the "recommendations" section of the results? I have 13k of lawn and whenever I laid down a bag of 24-0-11 (which was 50lbs) that according to the bag took care of 12k of lawn. So 1 bag was enough for my whole lawn and 50lbs of lime per 1k seems straight up wrong haha. I know this is apples and oranges in terms of product but that just seems lile a lot.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

50 lb of 24-0-11 gives you 12 lb of N (50x0.24)and 5.5 lb of K (50x0.11).The numbers are percentages of N, P, and K in the product. Spread over 13000 sq ft, you're getting about .9 lb of N and .4 lb of K per 1000 sq ft from that fertilizer bag.

I have no experience with liquid lime and how much liquid lime is equivalent to pounds of granular lime. The recommendations on the soil test are for granular lime. Call the lab if you want to explore the possibilities. Also do some research.


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## BurtMacklinFBI (Jul 17, 2021)

Virginiagal said:


> 50 lb of 24-0-11 gives you 12 lb of N (50x0.24)and 5.5 lb of K (50x0.11).The numbers are percentages of N, P, and K in the product. Spread over 13000 sq ft, you're getting about .9 lb of N and .4 lb of K per 1000 sq ft from that fertilizer bag.


I understand how to divide fertalizer into weight sizes based on the bag label but thats why i said fertilizer vs lime is apples and oranges because fertilizer has multiple ingredients and fillers so a 50lb bag isnt 50lbs of any certain ingredient. however a 50lb bag of lime is 50lbs of lime and I can't see using a full 50lbs of product withing 1000sqft. Hence my concern.



Virginiagal said:


> Also do some research.


Not to be rude but I have. I don't just expect to be spoon fed the answers.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Great! You no doubt know a lot more about liquid lime than I do. If you end up using it, maybe you can come back and tell us how it went.

Regular granular lime works slowly, over a period of months and years. So it is indeed fine to put down 50 lb of regular lime over 1000 sq ft. in one application. Some of it will be reacting in a few weeks, some in a few months, some in a year or so. It gives continued action. Fast acting granular lime works faster and you are limited to more like 10 lb per 1000 sq ft for an application (follow directions on package). I have no idea how fast liquid lime works or how long it will maintain pH.


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## BurtMacklinFBI (Jul 17, 2021)

Virginiagal said:


> Great! You no doubt know a lot more about liquid lime than I do.


In the past you've rudely commented on some of my posts which annoyed me, hence me calling out a comment like "do some research". I belong to many forums (this being the only lawn related one) Of those forums I am much more knowledgeable about the topics or rather, this is the forum I know the least about which is why I am here to learn. Regardless whether I know a lot about something or not, my first instinct when I don't know the answer to something i seek, isn't to just go ask strangers (whom 1: could easily give me the wrong information on accident and 2: give me there opinions which aren't always correct.. and my involvement in many forums has proven to me that there are lots of opinionated persons out there) So to repeat myself, when I have a question, my first instinct isn't to ask a random person whom I have no idea of their knowledge on the subject. Also on forums where I am much more prominent, I would never reply telling someone looking for answers to "do some research" even in cases where I can instantly tell they did not. I'll answer the question if I can, post a link to the answer when I don't or take the best route when I don't have or can't find an answer which is ......... just not comment at all. Because at the end of the day "do some research" isn't even remotely helpful. Based on your follow-up comment I believe I was correct at sensing some rudeness in "do some research"

The rest of your replies I believe you were being sincere, and I thank you for taking time to sit down and respond even if they didn't help me with my concerns. I'm sorry your latter comment annoyed me however in the last 24hours my PC has 17 browsers open with different articles on the matters I'm questioning and multiple product label downloads (about 8 total, some of which I had to print out due to going cross-eyed reading the monitor). I still dont have the answers I'm looking for and in reality it's probably way less complicated than I think which is why I can't find them and decided to ask here on this forum. So "do some research" implies I haven't even tried which is why I'm annoyed.

But hey, since im much more knowledgeable on the subject NOW, I guess that frees up some of your time since you won't have to respond to anything I post from here out. :thumbup:


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

@BurtMacklinFBI I think you may be overreacting to Virginiagal's comments. I've "known"
her for over a decade now from at least 3 lawn/garden forums. She's good people. I can't say that she might not be being a smidge testy [this topic has been discussed a number of times on this forum (and sometimes with quite detailed explanations) and the topic can be pretty complex and requires the "light bulb" phenom to fire before we "get" it.] Try reading Virginiagal's comments as if they were said by your kindly grandmother.

On the topic:
Have you read my attempts to explain pH, pH adjustments and limeing In https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=19564#p19564? Feel free to come back with any questions, and I'll try to clarify what I can.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Sorry, but I didn't realize "do some research" was rude. I sincerely meant that doing some research might help you get the answers you need. You need to know limits, how often to apply, equivalents to granular lime, ENV comparisons. There is a chemical reaction between the carbonate in lime and H3O. You need carbonate action to reduce acidity so there must be enough carbonate material in whatever you apply. Surface applied lime is sort of tricky because the top surface can become too alkaline while the soil underneath is still acidic. That's why there are limits and why you don't do it every month, instead allowing time for the lime to work its way deeper into the soil. Here's another idea: contact your local extension agent and ask about liquid lime. He might have some insight.

Also, sorry but I don't remember other conversations with you. I try to be helpful. You're more than welcome to point out whatever you see as rude.


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## corneliani (Apr 2, 2019)

I've been on this site for a good few years and Virginiagal is one of the most level-headed, succinct and to-the-point posters on here. Very factual and does not embellish her knowledge, which forum members are tempted to do. I think you may have mistaken her 'tone' as snappy.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

You've asked the same question multiple times.



BurtMacklinFBI said:


> Lime recommendation suggests 69lbs per 1K sqft (50 per app)...... So.... is 69lbs what's recommended for the year..or does that mean that much is needed to correct the imbalance?





> I appreciate everyone's replies!
> any enlightenment on the 50lbs max per application per 1000sqft suggestion in the "recommendations" section of the results?





> My issue is the suggested amount being recommended by the soil test. It says 69lbs per 1000sqft. (50lbs max per application) So assuming I could get a 50lb bad of lime per 1000sqft, am I really supposed to dump that much product on my lawn?... That can't be right. Then I have a problem grasping the move from solid weight to liquids


You received multiple answers:


> The lime recommendation is what is recommended to get your soil to the target pH, which is probably 6.5.





> You were asking about other discussions about soil tests. That's in the soil fertility forum, plenty of good conversation there you can learn from.
> viewforum.php?f=24


Yet you state:


> however a 50lb bag of lime is 50lbs of lime and I can't see using a full 50lbs of product withing 1000sqft. Hence my concern.
> 
> Not to be rude but I have. I don't just expect to be spoon fed the answers.


The Soil Remediation Guide has all these answers. Ridgerunner post has all the science around the testing with plenty of references for further nighttime reading. I'm going to copy/paste the lime recommendations in here so it is very easy for you to find and read them.



> If pH is less than 6.0, then it will need lime. Your soil test should tell you how much lime to apply per ksqft. The guideline is no more than 50lb/ksqft every 6 months, unless you are using a fast acting lime. For a fast acting lime, follow the bag recommendations. There are 2 types of lime, dolomitic and calcitic. Dolomitic limestone is a mix of calcium and magnesium; while calcitic is mostly calcium. Most soils do not need magnesium, too much can cause the soil to become too hard and it cannot be removed from the soil. Unless the recommendation was to also increase the magnesium in your soil, use calcitic to increase your pH. For nitrogen, a low pH soil will benefit from using ammonium nitrate (34-0-0) at no more than 3lb/ksqft/month. Avoid applying other products withing 2 weeks of lime application.


When you read most of the guides we have on the forum, they are in an effort to provide members with 90% of the knowledge at once. The follow up threads help to clarify any questions or specific issues. I try to go back and edit most of them with new information or clarifications if I notice an area that gets constant questions or direct feedback from other members. I was actually tweaking one last night from feedback from a member.

Lastly, you wont see liquid lime in the guide. While it might be possible to use, it will just be very expensive. You need Xlb of lime and the liquid is lime + water + inert stuff. In the product you list, it is 37lb in 2.5g or 14lb/gallon. ~35% is inert stuff. So something close to 10lb of lime per gallon of that product. You will need a lot of gallons. A bag of agricultural lime is cheap and easy to apply.


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