# zAmbitionz Renovation



## zAmbitionz (Aug 2, 2021)

I posted previously about my renovation. 
Today this began with my killing the old lawn and the seed is on the way. 
The problem I am having is I have overseeded the old lawn multiple times with not much success, and am concerned I won't be successful when seeding the new lawn.
I have always figured it's due to soil contact and have contemplated a slice seeder to help fix this. But reading here see those aren't very popular. 
I saw online where a gentlemen puts the seed down with a rotary spreader first 
Then runs across the lawn with a slice seeder 
Then rolls it. What are your thoughts on this ?


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## SNOWBOB11 (Aug 31, 2017)

There can be many reasons why you've had a difficult time getting seeds to grow. Maybe post up some pictures of the area your seeding. It might be helpful in determining why you've had issues with germination.

In general there's not a need to use a slit seeder if your getting good seed/soil contact.


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## JDgreen18 (Jun 14, 2018)

Seed to soil contact plus water is the key to good germination.
After you kill off existing lawn, mow at the lowest setting and bag your clippings.
I like to rough up the ground some here, I use my landscape rake on my tractor but used/rented a power dethatcher with good results in the past(go over multiple times in both directions). Rake up all debris. At this point you should have a good amount of soil showing. (You could aerate here if you want I usually dont)
I would take this opportunity to level out any low or bumpy areas you want to fix.
I would let it sit for at least a week giving it water to fallow the area. The day before seed down I would spot spray any weeds that came back. 
Now you seed/fert/top dress & water water water...boom a new lawn


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## jimmythegreek (Aug 7, 2020)

Agree with the power rake approach. If you scalp it amd then power rake it 2 different directions well, the top layer of soil will be loose amd powdery. The seed will fall into the slits amd also get nested in that loose top layer. Makes a huge difference over seeding onto an untouched lawn


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## zAmbitionz (Aug 2, 2021)

Not the greatest photos but i was in a bit of a rush. 
Part of the area is shady part of the day the rest is full sunlight. 
I have an electric dethatcher and attempted the power rake approach this spring. 
I am wondering maybe if i didnt water enough i also did not use peat moss or straw.


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## zAmbitionz (Aug 2, 2021)

The area was probably savable however there were many types of grass growing and the main variety could not handle the sunlight and turns brown through June and August i simply couldnt put enough water on it. 
So i felt it best just to do a hard reset.


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## jimmythegreek (Aug 7, 2020)

If you dont have irrigation tttf would be your best bet overall. Some kbg blended in is always good for self repair value. They can handle some shade. If that under tree area is very shady get a prune pole amd thin the tree up some. And BTW when I say power rake I mean a gas powered model. The electrics have their place, but on a full Reno I look for the power amd depth a pro model gives you


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## bernstem (Jan 16, 2018)

It is hard to know why overseeding failed. The key to a successful renovation, as noted above by JDgreen, is good soil contact and keeping the seeds moist. The key steps to do that are also outlined above: 
- Scalp the lawn short ~1/2-3/4 inch after it is dead. Bag if you are cutting a lot of blade off in the scalp
- Dethatch/core areate if you want. This is optional in my opinion, but if you have a lot of dead grass matted on the surface, a dethatch at least is a good idea. Mow and bag the debris.
- spread seed and rake lightly to get it down to the soil, then roll to get good contact with the soil
- Spread ~1/8 inch of Peat Moss or other top dressing to protect the seeds and provide something above them to keep them moist. 
- Water. Your initial watering may need to be more than you expect if you use Peat Moss as it takes a moderate amount of water to saturate it. Check under the Peat Moss to make sure the water is getting to the soil. 
- Water frequently to maintain moisture. Try not to let the Peat Moss dry out as it may need to be re-wetted. A good starting point for watering is to water 3 times per day. You do not need to water at night, so 6AM, noon, and 6PM are a reasonable starting point. Time depends on the irrigation system, but 3-5 minutes or ~0.05 inches per cycle is a decent starting point. Adjust as needed. 
- Tenacity (Mesotrione) can be used at seeding and again at 4 weeks to reduce weed pressure.


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## zAmbitionz (Aug 2, 2021)

TTF is what i ordered. 
I believe 85 percent TTF and 15 percent KBG. 
Not my dream but without irrigation i think it will look the best with the least work. 
Depending what i am able to get my hands on it looks like a slice seeder and power rake would accomplish the same thing ?
Just run the machine first then use a broadcast spreader to put the seed down. 
My back lawn is around 3500 square feet im not sure how many bags of peat moss i will need but i know my local lowes only has 3 on the shelf.


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## bernstem (Jan 16, 2018)

Without water, the germination rate will be quite poor. I assume you are watering with a hose end sprinkler when you say you are doing this without irrigation. If you are truly relying on nature to supply water, you may struggle with germination.

It is also worth noting that South Dakota near Sioux Falls is much different than the Badlands. I assume you are in eastern SD, but if you are out west I would expect especially poor germination without water.


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## zAmbitionz (Aug 2, 2021)

@bernstem I am in the Sioux Falls area. 
I will be using a hose to water and planned morning and around dinner time for shorter stints the first 7 to 14 days. 
I had contemplated getting a traveling sprinkler but it looks like they put down a bit much water.


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## jha4aamu (Oct 16, 2017)

zAmbitionz said:


> @bernstem I am in the Sioux Falls area.
> I will be using a hose to water and planned morning and around dinner time for shorter stints the first 7 to 14 days.
> I had contemplated getting a traveling sprinkler but it looks like they put down a bit much water.


You may have to add 2 or 3 additional watering apps in between. You will want to water lightly and frequently.


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## zAmbitionz (Aug 2, 2021)

I will be sure to check it through out the day and reapply as needed.


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## zAmbitionz (Aug 2, 2021)

Update the lawn is dead. 
I have scalped it and used my greenworks dethatcher to thin it out. 
I have a power rake on reservation for next Monday, how aggressive are the gas powered ones ? the surface of my soil is pretty dense and im going to need to break up maybe the first quarter inch or so of soil.


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## jimmythegreek (Aug 7, 2020)

They have height settings. I almost always go all the way down. I like to really break up the top layer. The power rake is the way to go. For the poster above who said slice seeder be aware most have discs amd not tines. The power rake actually rakes the lawn the slice seeder cuts grooves. Make sure you plan on some time after power raking to clean up any thatch amd junk that gets pulled out. A backpack blower or a mower with bags is the way to go. Than seed after


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## zAmbitionz (Aug 2, 2021)

Update, 
Power raking is complete the seed is down and peat moss covering is on. 
My peat moss job could have been better but it will have to suffice. 
We are in for some rain this week but hopefully nothing too heavy, light rain will just make my life a little easier.


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## BBLOCK (Jun 8, 2020)

I think you're going to have better success. Keep the seed bed damp at all times and you won't fail


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## zAmbitionz (Aug 2, 2021)

I am thinking so also. 
The power rake did a great job as you can see in the above photo. 
I am feeling very optimistic about having a yard i can be proud of by snowfall.


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