# ctrav Soil Test 2018



## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

I'm so excited... So I sent my dirt off to Waypoint Analytical and boy are they fast. Received the soil yesterday and here is my report today. pH is till very high at 8 for the front and 7.7 for the back. As I don't know how to really interpret the report any feedback is greatly appreciated! :thumbup:


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

This looks like my soil when I moved into my new construction house. Their recommendations are good in my opinion.

pH - it is high. I expected this and it is normal for some of the texas areas. While elemental sulfur might work in Texas (not so much in Indiana), it will take a very large amount over a few years to lower your pH. So you will need to learn to live with it. My soil is also high pH and I have a nice lawn. I think @Spammage has bermuda and lives in texas with high pH. Use AS (21-0-0) and you will need FAS for green color and if you notice actual chlorosis (yellow lawn due to lack of iron in the plant). Ferrous Ammonium Sulfate (FAS) | Liquid Iron for Lawns

Phosphorous - You are low. This helps in root development. Milorganite is a good source, but at 30k, it will be expensive. Triple Super Phosphate (0-45-0) would be the ideal option for you.

Potassium - This is also low. SOP (0-0-50) is the ideal source, but it is hard to find. Spammage might be able to help you find some. Check the hometown forum for extra aid in sources.

For both P and K, you want to apply 1lb of each/ksqft per rolling month when the grass is growing. Mulching will clippings will be beneficial to return some of the nutrients back to the soil.

CEC - This is high and reflects that your soil has clay in it. It will retain nutrients.

Sulfur looks above typical, but I think it might be normal in your area.

Follow the bermuda guideline in the warm season forum for nitrogen quantities. If you have questions, just post them here. Continue testing next year to see how your levels improve. This will take some time, it is a marathon not a race. You should be able to grow a nice lawn with this soil.


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

@ctrav While I am in the DFW area, I'm on the Dallas/Rockwall County border and have an even greater clay problem than you will.

While I do have some bermuda, I have more zoysia, but aside from fertilizer requirements, they are handled about the same. I have not looked for SOP in this area, so I can't help you there, but instead of TSP, I would look for MAP (Monoammonium Phosphate) or MESZ (Monoammonium Phosphate, Elemental Sulfur, and Zinc) to avoid adding any Calcium to our already calcium heavy soil which could raise pH even more. MAP and or MESZ can be found at places like Crop Production Services or co-ops. They may also have SOP.

If you want to try to keep this more basic, you can buy 50lb bags of Lesco 15-5-10 at Home Depot which have a decent profile and go for about $30 each.


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

g-man...thanks for taking the time away from your project!
Spammage - thanks for your input on this as well!

This is the first time I will have done anything other than cut, trim and throw down some scotts fert from HD so its safe to say I am a novice for sure. Wait... I did apply sulfur twice in 2 years as I was told I needed it for the pH in this soil. My promise is that I will read, research and ask questions to get better at "caring" for my lawn and going past a basic approach.

The lawn has been scalped to 1 1/2" from the 3-4" I had it at and I plan to maintain at 2" from here on out. I would like to maintain at 1 1/2" but there are too many scalp marks to deal with that. I looked into bringing in sand but it was seriously expensive so 2" will have to work for now at least.

I have 21-0-0 and Lesco Chelated iron plus (12-0-0) so can I use these to start with as my last Nitrogen app of the season? I will be applying pre emergent some time late september to mid october. I also have Celsius that I can apply.

I found a place for the 0-45-0 but will have to check on the 0-0-50. I also found 18-46-0 at Justin Seed. I like the idea of 21-0-0 and MESZ together if I can find it. So far everything I found comes in the 50# bags which I like as I can usually buy 4 bags and have enough for the entire lawn. The pull behind spreader works great for applying. One thing for sure is I dont want to raise the pH anymore than it is. The local seed store recommended sulfur in the past and now they advised to try gypsum to lower pH.

This is the complete picture as I know it...


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

ctrav said:


> The lawn has been scalped to 1 1/2" from the 3-4" I had it at and I plan to maintain at 2" from here on out.


2" can look great. You should plan on mowing at least twice a week during peak growth periods.



> I have 21-0-0 and Lesco Chelated iron plus (12-0-0) so can I use these to start with as my last Nitrogen app of the season?


Yes - phosphorus can be applied in the winter here also, as our ground doesn't freeze.



> The local seed store recommended sulfur in the past and now they advised to try gypsum to lower pH.


Gypsum is a way to add calcium to the soil without raising the pH, but it won't lower the pH.


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

Thanks Spammage...I certainly hope my lawn looks better than it does now as this is literally as good as it has been!

Twice a week mow no problem...

Forget the gypsum...

So if I apply the 21-0-0 and spray on the 12-0-0 Chelated Iron after I cut on Tuesday and then run irrigation (which starts just after midnight) for my weekly deep water cycle this will be fine correct?

Should I also continue to apply sulfur twice a year as previously suggested?

That takes care of the "N" and "P" but what about the "K"?? Or does the "K" wait until next spring?


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

ctrav said:


> So if I apply the 21-0-0 and spray on the 12-0-0 Chelated Iron after I cut on Tuesday and then run irrigation (which starts just after midnight) for my weekly deep water cycle this will be fine correct?


I don't know the suggested application rate for the Lesco, but with foliar applications, I wouldn't apply more than .5lbs N per M. Something to keep in mind if you will also be spraying the AS.



> Should I also continue to apply sulfur twice a year as previously suggested?


You can, or you can ignore the pH and grow great bermuda at your existing pH. If you can find some MESZ, you will have that covered anyway.



> That takes care of the "N" and "P" but what about the "K"?? Or does the "K" wait until next spring?


Fall is a great time to apply K. Again, I don't know if you are planning on spraying it, but some SOP is water soluble, while some is granular and can be applied through a spreader.

I would check with Crop Production Services in Flower Mound for SOP and either MAP or MESZ.


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

Thanks again...I will check this week on finding what I need and report back...stay tuned


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

So here is what I have come up with as a starting plan for next year...

My soil test indicated that my CEC was high with clay soil.

Next spring Im looking at applying 13-13-13 every 4 weeks but may look at half rate and applying every 2 weeks. I like the idea of continuous feed vs feed-deplete-feed-deplete approach. Since my "P" and "K" are also low I will apply extra "P" (0-45-0) in the spring and extra "K" (0-50-0) in the fall. Lastly a couple of applications of micro nutrients (MESZ) during the early summer and late summer as a supplement.

Thoughts please...


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

That'll work. Keep records and the following year's soil test will show how the plan is working and allow you to make informed adjustments.


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

Ridgerunner said:


> That'll work. Keep records and the following year's soil test will show how the plan is working and allow you to make informed adjustments.


Thanks Ridgerunner... I'm going to start a lawn journal and document everything!


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

g-man said:


> Phosphorous - You are low. This helps in root development. Milorganite is a good source, but at 30k, it will be expensive. Triple Super Phosphate (0-45-0) would be the ideal option for you.
> 
> Potassium - This is also low. SOP (0-0-50) is the ideal source, but it is hard to find. Spammage might be able to help you find some. Check the hometown forum for extra aid in sources.
> 
> For both P and K, you want to apply 1lb of each/ksqft per rolling month when the grass is growing. Mulching will clippings will be beneficial to return some of the nutrients back to the soil.


I found the 0-45-0 and the 0-0-50. Question is do I calculate the application rate just as I would if it were "N" for the "P" and "K"? 100/45=2.2*30=66 thus one and a quarter 50 pound bags for the entire property. Did I get this correct?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

That is correct. Nothing wrong with just using a 50lb. This way there is no need to weight anything and no need to store an open 40lb bag.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

g-man said:


> That is correct. Nothing wrong with just using a 50lb. This way there is no need to weight anything and no need to store an open 40lb bag.


I agree with g-man that, in this case, it's not necessary to apply to the ounce. With a higher CEC soil I'd suggest you increase your ppm/base saturation of K this Fall by applying 50# of 0-0-50 very 30 days X3 for a total of 150 lbs over the 30M of lawn. Getting it down this Fall will allow it to cook over winter and work into the soil. Soil test again next spring right before you apply the first fertilizer of the new season. This will give you a base line value for future testing. Institute your above plan, then test the following Spring and compare to the base line to see what changes occurred. If that makes sense.


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

Ridgerunner said:


> g-man said:
> 
> 
> > That is correct. Nothing wrong with just using a 50lb. This way there is no need to weight anything and no need to store an open 40lb bag.
> ...


Yes sir i think i have it. I will plan September, October and November mid month. Then I will order a new soil report (I'm thinking March/April) and we will go from there...THANKS!!


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