# Jacobsen Greens Mower Questions



## dfw_pilot

Do you have a Jacobsen greens mower and have a question about working on it? Do you have something to share? Ask or share here.


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## tigertailbell

These threads are a great idea. I could have used some 1st hand advice a couple of years ago when I first got my Eclipse. 
I have a circa 2010 Eclipse 26. Feel free to send me a message if anyone has any questions. 
I also had a 22" greens king for a short time. Not much experience to share from that one, however.


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## Michael303

I have a question on the Eclipse models. The spec sheet says it's max height of cut is about 0.5". Is that just set by the front roller and would it be possible to modify that to get it closer to 1.5"


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## Redtenchu

Michael303 said:


> I have a question on the Eclipse models. The spec sheet says it's max height of cut is about 0.5". Is that just set by the front roller and would it be possible to modify that to get it closer to 1.5"


Yes, HOC is adjusted at the front roller. It would be very difficult to modify the brackets for a 1.5 HOC, but not impossible.


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## Mightyquinn

Redtenchu said:


> Michael303 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a question on the Eclipse models. The spec sheet says it's max height of cut is about 0.5". Is that just set by the front roller and would it be possible to modify that to get it closer to 1.5"
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, HOC is adjusted at the front roller. It would be very difficult to modify the brackets for a 1.5 HOC, but not impossible.
Click to expand...

I thought Jacobsen made some brackets that you could buy to help raise the HOC. I vaguely remember someone that had a Jacobsen doing it.


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## Redtenchu

Mightyquinn said:


> I thought Jacobsen made some brackets that you could buy to help raise the HOC. I vaguely remember someone that had a Jacobsen doing it.


I only know the Toro Flex21 has an optional bracket set that raises the HOC from 0.50 up to 0.75.

I don't see any for the Jacobsen (Didn't look super hard) and I would be very surprised if the brackets raised the HOC above 1.0


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## Mightyquinn

I want to say it was Tigertailbell that did it to his after he got it. I agree that it most likely won't take it above 1" for HOC.


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## tigertailbell

Mightyquinn said:


> I want to say it was Tigertailbell that did it to his after he got it. I agree that it most likely won't take it above 1" for HOC.


My newer eclipse 126 came with the higher brackets. I recently got my hands on another 126 that appears to be a few years older (slightly different adjustment options) and to my disappointment, the max HOC is about. .7". 
The brackets do appear to be the same as the flex brackets so those might work? They're also pretty simple in design- I imagine someone that was handy with a welder could fabricate them to adjust more.


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## csbutler

I have a Jacobsen 518a that I purchased from the weeks auction. I've been using it for a few weeks now and when I mow it leaves strips of taller grass. No matter which direction or how many times i go over it. Could this be just an issue with the mower or just due to my yard still not being very flat? The strips are on the more uneven part of the yard. Not sure if you can tell much from the pictures below


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## Mightyquinn

I don't think there is anything wrong with your mower. It's probably a combination of your lawn not being smooth/flat enough and your grass being a little puffy from not mowing with a reel mower all season. What HOC are you at?


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## Redtenchu

I agree with MQ, it's the puffy grass and uneven ground.

Sometimes I see those lines on my lawn. Double mowing in a checker or diamond pattern normally fixes it for that day. Long term you'll need to verticut and/or sand the lawn to fix the issue.


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## csbutler

Currently at .30. I definitely need to verticut but since we are so late in the season I just decided to wait until spring. I put down 4tons of sand down in July. I plan on doing the same next year.


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## Killbuzz

My 522A arrived today which I bought from Weeks Auciton. No issues with starting it although the idle needs a little work. The drive, reel, and groomer all engaged without issue. The bedknife needs to be replaced but the reel seems to be in good condition. It also missing the parking lever and cable, as well as, the lockout lever. I may or may not replace these since I don't have a use for them atm. There are some cosmetic issues which should be easy to fix. I'll be taking lots of pictures during the restoration and will be posting in another thread. I can't wait to use this thing!

Fred approves!


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## gene_stl

Anytime Fred needs to be boarded when you go on a trip, you can bring him up here to St. Louis. We'll spoil him rotten.
Love the epoxy coated floor. And the reel. Nice groomer.


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## ericgautier

Can anyone help me identify what model this is?




























I called the seller but he doesn't know what model it is. He just said 22" greens mower. :lol:


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## SGrabs33

@ericgautier @Killbuzz Do you happen to know? I know yours is a 22".


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## Killbuzz

@ericgautier That's a Greens King 522A.


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## Adrian82

The model number is located on the machine somewhere. The Jacobsen site may be of some use if you look at the Greens Mowers
https://jacobsen.sysonline.com/Default.aspx


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## MasterMech

It's definitely a GreensKing 4/500 series machine. They are pretty similar regardless of the individual model. I don't think it's an "a" machine but it's possible that it is indeed an "a" model that had an 11-blade reel swapped in. That one has the older style clutch and controls.

_"A" model Jakes are factory equipped as tee and approach mowers. 8 blade reels and high-cut (not fairway tho) bedknives._

EDIT: The above is not true - the "a" models are just newer versions for the 518, 522, and 526. There are at least 2 versions that I have seen, with InCommand controls and without.


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## Killbuzz

MasterMech said:


> It's definitely a GreensKing 4/500 series machine. They are pretty similar regardless of the individual model. I don't think it's an "a" machine but it's possible that it is indeed an "a" model that had an 11-blade reel swapped in. That one has the older style clutch and controls.
> 
> "A" model Jakes are factory equipped as tee and approach mowers. 8 blade reels and high-cut (not fairway tho) bedknives.


We concluded that it was a 422 based off of the throttle lever.


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## wdeant

I have a Greens King 526A that I just had Jacobsen take in to replace the reel and bedknife. They did a great job with it. When the tech delivered back to the house, we tried mowing and it started out well, but then when we engaged the clutch, it would not move forward. I'm not sure he knew exactly the steps to take to adjust the clutch but did manage to get it running again. However, on the next mowing, about halfway through, it stopped moving again. It doesn't engage whether the blade is engaged or not. I've looked in the manual and online and can't seem to find a clear explanation of the adjustments and how they work and why they might stop working.

Can someone give me some instructions on how to adjust the clutch and what the various springs, nuts, etc. do and how they work together? Thanks in advance!

Dean in Atlanta (Roswell, GA)


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## g-man

See if this thread by mastermech could help you. https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=2471


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## MasterMech

If you have a 526a, it should have the newer centrifugal clutch. I can post a picture of my controls later. The drive "clutch" is just 4 pins that insert through the large pulley and the small pulley behind it. If the jackshaft that those two ride on is not clamped in the right position, that can mess with the drive engagement.


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## wdeant

Got it! Is there an art to adjusting the 3 nuts, springs, etc?


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## MasterMech

wdeant said:


> Got it! Is there an art to adjusting the 3 nuts, springs, etc?




Are we talking about the centrifugal? There's no adjustment possible on those to my knowledge.



Or are you working on something under the belt cover?

Jacobsen makes all of their service manuals available online btw. Just need your model number.


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## wdeant

This is the adjustment that I was referencing in my post. It may have everything I need in the instructions if I understood it thoroughly. Not a mechanic, but mechanically inclined.


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## MasterMech

Ah ha! I thought perhaps you were referring to an older machine with the plate clutches. Nothing fancy, the book details the procedure. A set of feelers is helpful for setting the plate gap.

Does your Machine say 526A on it? I thought all of the "a" series units had the newer controls and centrifugal clutches instead of the older plate style.


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## wdeant

I'm traveling, so can't check, but that's what I remember referenced in my documentation. The mower just stopped engaging and moving forward. I feel like it has to be just getting the adjustment right. The company I sent it to originally messed it up, so I'm stuck with getting it back right after Jacobsen fixed everything else. Long story!


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## BrewNight

Hello Everyone!
I've been looking for a reel mower for my Bermuda lawn. Almost bought a used Mclane, but a Jacobsen GK 422 (late 62244) popped up on OfferUp for $850. I offered $450 but then got it for $440 with two new bed knives, some custom height adjusters (goes up to about 2" or so), and a Toro grass catcher that I trimmed to fit. The grass catcher is a tight fit. I don't think $440 was a steal by any means, but I'm just happy to have a heavy duty reel mower! Anyone have a spare used grass catcher for a 422? R&R sells them for $217!
I haven't mowed with it yet because I want to change the oil, plug, air filter, hit all the zerk fittings, clean the carb, and then tidy up some of the wiring. I haven't checked the belts yet to see if they need replacing. The reel was just sharpened. 
My grass is currently at 1.5" inches. It definitely needs to be leveled. I was thinking about putting the new height adjusters on and setting it to 1.25" and then gradually working it down to somewhere south of an inch once I level the yard.
I'll post some pics one I get it ready!
-Kevin, Saginaw, Texas


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## BrewNight

Quick note on the custom height adjusters for the Greens King 422. The previous owner (golf course superintendent) welded two Roller Brackets (part 241837 in parts catalog) together end to end to get an extra 1.5" or so in height. I'll let everyone know how well they work once I get them installed. I'll take pics too.


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## Willie Malay

Supposed you wanted to use a greens mower to cut a residential yard at heights above it's cutting range. Can that be done? If so, how?


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## dfw_pilot

The HOC is adjusted with brackets on each side of the front roller (on a Toro). You can purchase taller brackets for a higher cut, or make your own.


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## Willie Malay

How about a Jacobsen 518a? Not a great deal of info out there on them. 
Sure wish there were individual manufacture and model forums on here &#128513;


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## dfw_pilot

Willie Malay said:


> Sure wish there were individual manufacture and model forums on here 😁


Why not ask your question in the Jacobsen thread?

Is this now the second time you've asked this question with only 12 posts so far?


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## dfw_pilot

I will say, we saw your other thread, discussed it, and decided that at this current time, it isn't right for TLF. Maybe one day, but not today.


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## Movingshrub

Willie Malay said:


> How about a Jacobsen 518a? Not a great deal of info out there on them.
> Sure wish there were individual manufacture and model forums on here 😁


There you go. https://www.lawnmowerforum.com/forumdisplay.php/40-Jacobsen-Forum


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## Movingshrub

dfw_pilot said:


> I will say, we saw your other thread, discussed it, and decided that at this current time, it isn't right for TLF. Maybe one day, but not today.


+1

Pass on the sub-forum overload.


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## g-man

You can increase it to some degree, but not to 3in in my opinion. The reel diameter (and not just reducing the blades) needs to increase too to catch more grass and feed it to the bedknife. You also might run into the problem of the head floating on the grass.

What are your goals?


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## MasterMech

If it's a fixed-head mower, you will run into geometry problems by jacking up the front roller on homemade brackets. You'd have to find a way to lower the traction roller or increase its overall diameter. Most Jakes are capable up to about 1.25".


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## Green

The Fiskars mechanical reel mower goes up to 4 inches, so it should be possible to design a powered reel mower with high HOC from the ground up (no pun intended). Maybe a project for some enterprising entrepreneur.


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## Willie Malay

The thread at the other Forum linked above is mine, with no answer, but thanks.

The Jacobsen thread. Suppose it disappears back a few pages because of disuse? How does a new member know it even exists?

What am trying to accomplish? I want to have a reel mower that can cut one area like a golf green and others like a normal reel cut lawn (relatively small areas). The rest I'll cut with a regular push mower or lawn tractor.
Looking for a reel that can maybe do both. Max height on the 518 I'm looking to get is listed at 7/16 inch. Kinda low to keep up with in the summer here with fast growing Bermuda. Read about brackets to raise the height but nothing concrete about it.


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## Ware

Willie Malay said:


> ...The Jacobsen thread. Suppose it disappears back a few pages because of disuse? How does a new member know it even exists?


I answered this in your other topic...



Ware said:


> ...Also be sure and check out the Popular Equipment & Tools Threads sticky at the top of the Equipment & Tools subforum. We already have many topics dedicated to the discussion of different equipment manufacturers.


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## Ware

Willie Malay said:


> ...Max height on the 518 I'm looking to get is listed at 7/16 inch. Kinda low to keep up with in the summer here with fast growing Bermuda. Read about brackets to raise the height but nothing concrete about it.


I have no experience with Jacobsen, but R&R sells a long and a short roller bracket for the Jacobsen 500 series. You might start there.


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## MasterMech

Willie Malay said:


> ......
> Looking for a reel that can maybe do both. Max height on the 518 I'm looking to get is listed at 7/16 inch. Kinda low to keep up with in the summer here with fast growing Bermuda. Read about brackets to raise the height but nothing concrete about it.


You need the longer front roller brackets which will raise it up to 1.25". Jake part no is 2000040


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## Ware

MasterMech said:


> You need the longer front roller brackets which will raise it up to 1.25". Jake part no is 2000040


Are you sure it's not the 2000072 brackets?


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## MasterMech

Ware said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> You need the longer front roller brackets which will raise it up to 1.25". Jake part no is 2000040
> 
> 
> 
> Are you sure it's not the 2000072 brackets?
Click to expand...

Depends on where you buy. :lol:

R&R has their wires crossed on this particular item. Order the xx40s from them and you'll get the short (normal) brackets. Order the xx72s and you get the long brackets.

And yes, I ordered both! -shrug-

The 63285 is the 7-blade tee/approach mower. (Just happens to be my machine too)


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## FlaDave

An F.Y.I. for anyone wanting to raise the hoc on a pgm 22. R&R part numbers R163231 and R163232 (extra long roller brackets) fit perfect to raise the hoc to a maximum of just shy of 1.5". The brackets also allow the hoc to be set in the machines original cutting range so no need to swap out if wanting to go back lower in the future. At max height it does set the the pitch up on the bedknife a bit. Just wanted to share.


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## Guest

FlaDave said:


> An F.Y.I. for anyone wanting to raise the hoc on a pgm 22. R&R part numbers R163231 and R163232 (extra long roller brackets) fit perfect to raise the hoc to a maximum of just shy of 1.5". The brackets also allow the hoc to be set in the machines original cutting range so no need to swap out if wanting to go back lower in the future. At max height it does set the the pitch up on the bedknife a bit. Just wanted to share.


Good information Dave


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## Chaseweeks1

I need a few parts for my 522 T mower, it is missing the engaging clutch for the reel and I also need a bedknife backing for it. If anyone has some parts they would sell that would be great because it would be over $700 to get the parts straight from Jacobsen.


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## Ral1121

Chaseweeks1 said:


> I need a few parts for my 522 T mower, it is missing the engaging clutch for the reel and I also need a bedknife backing for it. If anyone has some parts they would sell that would be great because it would be over $700 to get the parts straight from Jacobsen.


Have you looked on rrproducts?


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## trickd122

Hello all. I have a new to me jacobsen tournament cut 22". The main issue I'm having is that the clutch wobbles. Looking at it there is a bushing that I suspect to be worn. Problem is how do I replace it? Cant seem to locate a true service manual like a how to ...any help would be appreciated


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## MasterMech

Chaseweeks1 said:


> I need a few parts for my 522 T mower, it is missing the engaging clutch for the reel and I also need a bedknife backing for it. If anyone has some parts they would sell that would be great because it would be over $700 to get the parts straight from Jacobsen.


The good news is that Machine is reel popular and parts are plentiful. The easiest and cheapest way to get parts would be to find one, preferably non-running for like 50-100 bucks, rob the needed parts and offload the rest to recoup the cost.


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## Chaseweeks1

@Ral1121 Thanks for showing me R&R Products that will bring the price down a bit.


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## Adrian82

FlaDave said:


> An F.Y.I. for anyone wanting to raise the hoc on a pgm 22. R&R part numbers R163231 and R163232 (extra long roller brackets) fit perfect to raise the hoc to a maximum of just shy of 1.5". The brackets also allow the hoc to be set in the machines original cutting range so no need to swap out if wanting to go back lower in the future. At max height it does set the the pitch up on the bedknife a bit. Just wanted to share.


Are you using the RR High Profile Bedknife for the higher hoc?


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## FlaDave

Adrian82 said:


> FlaDave said:
> 
> 
> 
> An F.Y.I. for anyone wanting to raise the hoc on a pgm 22. R&R part numbers R163231 and R163232 (extra long roller brackets) fit perfect to raise the hoc to a maximum of just shy of 1.5". The brackets also allow the hoc to be set in the machines original cutting range so no need to swap out if wanting to go back lower in the future. At max height it does set the the pitch up on the bedknife a bit. Just wanted to share.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you using the RR High Profile Bedknife for the higher hoc?
Click to expand...

I think the bedknife is the original that came with the machine cause its painted orange and matches perfectly. I actually don't know what bedknife it is. Is there a way to tell?


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## trickd122

Anyone here familiar with the Jacobsen tournament cut 22 mowers? Want to know if I can use the same bracket in the above post to raise the HOC


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## Adrian82

trickd122 said:


> Anyone here familiar with the Jacobsen tournament cut 22 mowers? Want to know if I can use the same bracket in the above post to raise the HOC


RR has a tool that allows you to pick parts for your brand/model equipment. I order the height extension for a PGM 22. I will install next week.


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## Adrian82

> Are you using the RR High Profile Bedknife for the higher hoc?





> I think the bedknife is the original that came with the machine cause its painted orange and matches perfectly. I actually don't know what bedknife it is. Is there a way to tell?


I believe the original bedknife has a part number on it. If not, the bedknife ln my machine was not original.


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## MasterMech

Jake bedknives usually have the name stamped in them, RR parts are usually labeled as such too.


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## afa

Does anyone know if the brackets mentioned above will work on an eclipse 126? I'd like to increase my HOC but I haven't found the exact part number I need or if it's compatible with a 126.


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## trickd122

Does anyone know where I might source one of those for cheap.


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## joerob2211

Can someone tell me the difference between the greensking 522 and the greensking 522a?


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## MasterMech

joerob2211 said:


> Can someone tell me the difference between the greensking 522 and the greensking 522a?


The "a" series has slightly different controls centered around a centrifugal clutch instead of the old plate clutches that you manually engaged.


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## joerob2211

Thanks for the response, I purchased a 522 last week for a really good price from a golf course and I just won a 522a from and auction a few days ago. Going to see which one I like better and sale the other. The 522a does have a groomer.


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## joerob2211

I am working on getting a 522a with incommand controls running. I have drained fluids and put in new oil/gas. I also put in a new spark plug and carb. It has a hard time running and after a few seconds it will shut down. The mower is missing the e-stop button that kills the engine from the handle. Since it is missing the e-stop button could this keep the mower from running? Also the few times that the RPM got high enough the traction would take off without the bail handle being pulled towards the handle. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.


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## FlaDave

joerob2211 said:


> I am working on getting a 522a with incommand controls running. I have drained fluids and put in new oil/gas. I also put in a new spark plug and carb. It has a hard time running and after a few seconds it will shut down. The mower is missing the e-stop button that kills the engine from the handle. Since it is missing the e-stop button could this keep the mower from running? Also the few times that the RPM got high enough the traction would take off without the bail handle being pulled towards the handle. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.


If it's running its unlikely the kill switch. I would investigate the governor rod and springs and Reset the governor arm. What engine is on there?


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## joerob2211

It is a Honda GX120


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## FlaDave

Here's this cool chart I found some time ago. I know you said you put a new carb but I wouldnt rule it out either. My pgm22 mower has a gx120 and I ordered a aftermarket $12 carb on amazon. Couldn't get it to run right with it. Ended up rebuilding the original carb and it runs fine now.


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## FlaDave

@joe@joerob2211 I was thinking some more about this today and I'm wondering if your machine is under load while you are trying to start it and that's why it stalls out. You mentioned it takes off if it manages to get the rpms high enough. If you could find a way to disengage the motor from the drivetrain by backing off the clutch adjustments it may stay running.


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## joerob2211

Thanks for the response @FlaDave. I have a new born so I haven't been about to go out and fiddle with it in the last two days and also why I am up at 3 am lol. That was also one of my thoughts yesterday, so I am going to check the bail that controls the traction and reel. I assumed I should be able to squeeze the bail even without the motor started and it barley moves because it is so tight in the open position. Maybe the tension wire is tight and just keeping the drum and reel engaged. I will get to work on it Saturday and will let you know what I figure out. Greatly appreciated.


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## MasterMech

The drive on a 5xxA is purely centrifugal. It will engage whenever the engine rpms come off-idle. Make sure you disengage the reel and traction drive clutches before trying to adjust engine rpm settings.


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## joerob2211

MasterMech said:


> The drive on a 5xxA is purely centrifugal. It will engage whenever the engine rpms come off-idle. Make sure you disengage the reel and traction drive clutches before trying to adjust engine rpm settings.


Thanks for the info, that makes sense. I will keep the reel and traction disengaged until i get the motor to run and steadily idle before i move on to make sure the clutch and controls are working properly. Moving from a mcclane to the jacobsen has a pretty good learning curve. I appreciate all of the help.


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## Jdaniel611

I need some advice. I'm looking at two different mowers soon.

The first a 62269 PGM 19 without wheels or collector. But told it runs smooth.





Or a lot of two that did run but they both with carb issues. The 18" looks like it had a engine swap and the axle covers are both missing it seems.

one is 62282 and the other is a 62261

The toros are gone.


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## FlaDave

Jdaniel611 said:


> I need some advice. I'm looking at two different mowers soon.
> 
> The first a 62269 PGM 19 without wheels or collector. But told it runs smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or a lot of two that did run but they both with carb issues. The 18" looks like it had a engine swap and the axle covers are both missing it seems.
> 
> one is 62282 and the other is a 62261
> 
> The toros are gone.


I would definatly grab that pgm 22 if the price is right. It is a great machine and it looks decent. It should be 22" though. The others are greensking. @MasterMech would know more.


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## Jdaniel611

Yes, you are right the top one does say PGM 22 on the tank.


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## g-man

Don't underestimate the lack of grass clipping catcher.


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## FlaDave

g-man said:


> Don't underestimate the lack of grass clipping.


You got that right. My machine is missing a grass catcher. R&R wants an arm and a leg for one and I haven't been lucky enough to find one elsewhere. If I need to collect clippings I have to break out the rotary.


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## Jdaniel611

@g-man I won't underestimate it, but it is a tool that is needed at the right times throughout the year.

@FlaDave I agree arm and leg pricing but it could be found used if you look at the right places.

I believe I also found another mower with a great offer but it won't be until next week.


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## FlaDave

Jdaniel611 said:


> @g-man I won't underestimate it, but it is a tool that is needed at the right times throughout the year.
> 
> @FlaDave I agree arm and leg pricing but it could be found used if you look at the right places.
> 
> I believe a also found another mower with a great offer but it won't be until next week.


I've seen that mower. Another user was looking at buying it. https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=6686


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## Jdaniel611

Interesting, I talked to the owner this afternoon and I know it's in MA not MN


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## Jdaniel611

Yeah looks like someone just "borrowed" the better photo for their ad. Both pictures on the ad don't match.

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/grd/d/mower-honda-gx-120-engine/6696420950.html


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## DR_GREENTHUMB

$100 is a steal!


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## Jdaniel611

Ok, I just picked up a older PGM 22. It needs a good cleaning/degreasing. I was told it sat in a storage unit for the last two years of its life. I did notice it's missing the brake cables and it's lever system. It also appears setup for a trailer as it has the locking bar bracket installed and the foot pedal is missing.

The first thing I did notice is that the drums have some resistance pushing forward and backwards with the motor off and clutch disengaged. It sounds and feels as if the chains are moving but a bearing might be broken or something is not disengaging.


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## FlaDave

Jdaniel611 said:


> Ok, I just picked up a older PGM 22. It needs a good cleaning/degreasing. I was told it sat in a storage unit for the last two years of its life. I did notice it's missing the brake cables and it's lever system. It also appears setup for a trailer as it has the locking bar bracket installed and the foot pedal is missing.
> 
> The first thing I did notice is that the drums have some resistance pushing forward and backwards with the motor off and clutch disengaged. It sounds and feels as if the chains are moving but a bearing might be broken or something is not disengaging.


My pgm 22 sounds and feels very similar to yours when off and disengaged when trying to move. I'm thinking it's because there are lots of moving parts directly connected to the drum. I could see how it sounds like a bad bearing but I'm thinking it's more along the likes of gears connected to a chain assembly inside the aluminum housing that are causing the noise I guess. Mine functions fine when operating and I cannot hear it after engaging the drivetrain while running with or without the reel engaged.


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## Jdaniel611

I tried to adjust the clutch cable as described in the manual however it seems like the springs to the left of the clutch arm are to stiff and don't compress and the other spring one on the right is woren out and takes all the play.


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## FlaDave

I didn't actually follow the manual to adjust my clutch. This is the only adjustment I needed to use in this picture and I simply put it to my liking so that I could more gradually engage the drive or "feather" the clutch. If not this thing goes from 0-100. Made the machine a lot easier to maneuver around my lawn but probably adds more wear on the clutch. 

I also removed the spring for the lock to make it easier to feather the drive.


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## Jdaniel611

Thank you. I took the whole clutch cable system apart and started over. I could tell someone "tried" to fix it but gave up from failures or lack of patience. It was truly hopeless for them as they installed the cable threaded end under the springs to close to the cable through bolt and it was hitting as the spring compressed.

I followed the manual as described and now my clutch works a lot better and the handle lever has some spring in it when you let go. I would like more of a spring back but this will have to do for now.


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## Jdaniel611

I found directparts.com to be a great resource for needed Jacobsen parts.

You just have to enter the part number into the search and see if they have it in stock. These guys buy old stock from Jacobsen and stock a few other brands.


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## Adrian82

Can anyone provide some insight on replacing a reel, specifically, for the PGM 22?


----------



## joerob2211

I am having an issue adjust one side of the roller for the HOC. The left side works perfect and the right side does not move up and down even though the nob turns. It is a 522a with a groomer and both bolts are loosened. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## MasterMech

joerob2211 said:


> I am having an issue adjust one side of the roller for the HOC. The left side works perfect and the right side does not move up and down even though the nob turns. It is a 522a with a groomer and both bolts are loosened. Any help would be appreciated.


It's quite possible the threads inside the adjuster are stripped and you will need new adjusters.


----------



## socerplaye

New Jacobsen 526a owner and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions of things I should look for or where to get started with setting the unit up..

Everything looks to run as it should. Carb was replaced this year and cranks up on the first pull of the choke is on. Runs fine after that.

Previous owners seemed to have used it very sparingly over the last 3 years.

I'm thinking oil change and lubrication and possibly a back lapping. If I do the paper cut test, would that tell me whether or not I really need to do the back lapping?

Thanks,

Billy


----------



## MasterMech

socerplaye said:


> New Jacobsen 526a owner and was wondering if anyone had any suggestions of things I should look for or where to get started with setting the unit up..
> 
> Everything looks to run as it should. Carb was replaced this year and cranks up on the first pull of the choke is on. Runs fine after that.
> 
> Previous owners seemed to have used it very sparingly over the last 3 years.
> 
> I'm thinking oil change and lubrication and possibly a back lapping. If I do the paper cut test, would that tell me whether or not I really need to do the back lapping?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Billy


What height do you want to run?


----------



## socerplaye

Was leaning towards .75" to 1". Ive got Bermuda and zoysia so I think that would be a good range for the both of them.


----------



## MasterMech

It looks like you might already have the tall brackets needed to go that high. If that's the case, lucky you! Just crank 'er up and go. One word of caution however, the stock Jacobsen brackets that hold the front roller are very fragile at those heights. Especially 1". If you do much as bounce it hard in a dip or rut, it will break the bracket and the roller will start to run caddywhompus and threaten the reel. R & R sells a much stronger bracket should you need them or desire a little preventative maintenance!


----------



## TonyC

MasterMech said:


> It looks like you might already have the tall brackets needed to go that high. If that's the case, lucky you! Just crank 'er up and go. One word of caution however, the stock Jacobsen brackets that hold the front roller are very fragile at those heights. Especially 1". If you do much as bounce it hard in a dip or rut, it will break the bracket and the roller will start to run caddywhompus and threaten the reel. R & R sells a much stronger bracket should you need them or desire a little preventative maintenance!


Looks like that left side is already bending. I'd suggest flipping those brackets so your roller is forward to reduce the resting stress.


----------



## socerplaye

Thanks for the heads up @MasterMech. Definitely had some bouncing going when I gave it a go yesterday on my side yard. I'm not sure the height that I cut at, but probably cut off at least an inch, which is fine because I'm planning on putting sand down this weekend. Slowly started to get the hang of the mower, but definitely need to get more comfortable mowing around objects, or else I'm going to have a bunch of weedeating to do.

The Ladd's here in Memphis charges $190 for a reel sharpening and new bedknife. I played around with the paper test yesterday and the paper didn't cut, it just folded over the bedknife. Would that be an indication that the bedknife isn't close enough to the reel? I don't mind trying to backlap it, but just wondering if I should just have Ladd's go ahead and sharpen the reel, replace the bedknife if needed, and give it a look over to make sure everything is good to go.

Billy


----------



## MasterMech

TonyC said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like you might already have the tall brackets needed to go that high. If that's the case, lucky you! Just crank 'er up and go. One word of caution however, the stock Jacobsen brackets that hold the front roller are very fragile at those heights. Especially 1". If you do much as bounce it hard in a dip or rut, it will break the bracket and the roller will start to run caddywhompus and threaten the reel. R & R sells a much stronger bracket should you need them or desire a little preventative maintenance!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like that left side is already bending. I'd suggest flipping those brackets so your roller is forward to reduce the resting stress.
Click to expand...

Old pictures, I've replaced that bracket, at least once! I now have the R&R bracket which is much beefier.

I keep the brackets flipped that way to keep my roller to roller distance as short as possible. I do not have a nice flat or gently rolling lawn yet and I need to minimize the bedknife bottoming out when cresting small rises.


----------



## MasterMech

socerplaye said:


> Thanks for the heads up @MasterMech. Definitely had some bouncing going when I gave it a go yesterday on my side yard. I'm not sure the height that I cut at, but probably cut off at least an inch, which is fine because I'm planning on putting sand down this weekend. Slowly started to get the hang of the mower, but definitely need to get more comfortable mowing around objects, or else I'm going to have a bunch of weedeating to do.
> 
> The Ladd's here in Memphis charges $190 for a reel sharpening and new bedknife. I played around with the paper test yesterday and the paper didn't cut, it just folded over the bedknife. Would that be an indication that the bedknife isn't close enough to the reel? I don't mind trying to backlap it, but just wondering if I should just have Ladd's go ahead and sharpen the reel, replace the bedknife if needed, and give it a look over to make sure everything is good to go.
> 
> Billy


Run that paper in between the knife and the reel. If it clears easily, then you may need to readjust. You want it to just tug at that paper (assuming it's standard copy paper) when placed in between the knives, but when you fold the paper and hold it vertical, it should cut it clean. Clean cuts through one sheet of newsprint is pretty much just for bragging rights. Unless it's not cutting grass, I'd hold off on grinding until your learning curve and dirty work (leveling) is finished.


----------



## M311att

@socerplaye Ladd's does good work and have been "reel" good to me over the last year. However, this is a busy time for them and woul likely take more time than you would hope to get your machine back.


----------



## socerplaye

Thanks @MasterMech! It was probably a little thicker than your standard copy paper, it was out of one of my wife's note books. Good idea about holding off until I get a little bit more comfortable. Decided to go with the red sand over the white masonry sand. Was recommended by two different companies that it would be better for leveling here in Memphis, and it will ultimately drain a little bit better as well. Downside, I was told that it could have some smaller pebbles about the size of an ice cream sprinkle. Shouldn't be too bad, I wouldn't think.

Thanks for the heads up @M311att. When I spoke with them two weeks ago, John (I think) said they were at about a 5 day lead time. No a big deal if that's the case, even if it takes longer, I can still mow with the ZT and then will work the HOC down from there.


----------



## CHaynie

So after months of looking for a a used reel mower I could afford/ that was within driving distance from me I finally found a Jacobsen Greens Mower 22. It is older but for the most part functions. It does have a few things I need to address though and I am hoping someone can help. Whenever I move the lever for the clutch to what is supposed to be the neutral position it doesn't disengage the clutch. Is there anything in particular I need to check first? I tried looking for a schematic for this particular model with no success. I was unsure if it is considered a PGM 22 or if there is another model number I need to be looking for. Another issue I seem to have is it will not throttle down to what I would consider a normal pace. Whenever I use it I have to walk very quickly just to keep up. Keeping a straight line is going to be difficult at this pace. Is this something I will just have to deal with?


----------



## MasterMech

Yeah, a greensmower is going to move at a faster pace than most residential machines. You can adjust the engine rpms to run a bit slower.


----------



## Pamboys09

Hello guys,

I got a seller send me a video of his jacobsen

Hes selling it for $200

Should i buy it??
Or its too risky and too old?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/jQvZPVFqUzLEnHsV9


----------



## Pamboys09

Pamboys09 said:


> Hello guys,
> 
> I got a seller send me a video of his jacobsen
> 
> Hes selling it for $200
> 
> Should i buy it??
> Or its too risky and too old?
> 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/jQvZPVFqUzLEnHsV9


Anyone??


----------



## Jimefam

Pamboys09 said:


> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I got a seller send me a video of his jacobsen
> 
> Hes selling it for $200
> 
> Should i buy it??
> Or its too risky and too old?
> 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/jQvZPVFqUzLEnHsV9
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone??
Click to expand...

I dont know anything about these things mechanically to be able to guide you but i can tell you that i picked mine up pretty cheap and its old and looks it but it just WORKS. Had it sitting since last September and the damn thing fired right up. Took it to get serviced and sharpened the guy said everything looked great on it and didnt even need to be sharpened. So my point is while they may look rough these things are apparently built well and can last a long time. As long as the blades dont look too bad i would pick it up for $200.


----------



## Pamboys09

Jimefam said:


> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pamboys09 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I got a seller send me a video of his jacobsen
> 
> Hes selling it for $200
> 
> Should i buy it??
> Or its too risky and too old?
> 
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/jQvZPVFqUzLEnHsV9
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone??
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I dont know anything about these things mechanically to be able to guide you but i can tell you that i picked mine up pretty cheap and its old and looks it but it just WORKS. Had it sitting since last September and the damn thing fired right up. Took it to get serviced and sharpened the guy said everything looked great on it and didnt even need to be sharpened. So my point is while they may look rough these things are apparently built well and can last a long time. As long as the blades dont look too bad i would pick it up for $200.
Click to expand...

Thanks got it, hope i got same faith as yours lol! By any chance do you know the model of these? he gave me the picture of the bedknife but not sure how these mower bedknife looks like


----------



## MasterMech

I was not able to see your earlier photos but it looks like it might be a PGM 22? However the dimpled roller makes it a 26" machine?


----------



## Jdaniel611

PGMs only came in 22". Smooth and or dimpled rollers were options. The Greens King came in both sizes 22" or 26".


----------



## MasterMech

Jdaniel611 said:


> PGMs only came in 22". Smooth and or dimpled rollers were options. The Greens King came in both sizes 22" or 26".


Do you know if those dimpled rollers would fit a GK522?


----------



## Jdaniel611

I think they should. But the GK manual has different part numbers then the PGM. I can measure my set. I haven't finished the fully rebuilding it, so it's open and free.


----------



## Adrian82

I have a PGM 22 and I noticed that when on the kickstand, from behind, the right drum is not engaging when the reel is activated. Is that normal?


----------



## Saints

Looking for some info on this mower. The seller says it needs a new throttle sensor or that's what he was told. I believe it is a 122 model and looking at a parts list I do not see a throttle sensor listed. He is asking $350 and it's about 2 hours away from me to get. Does anyone think this would be worth it or just a problem waiting to happen? It looks to be in good shape otherwise. This would be my first reel mower so not sure what to expect. 


d20 virtual

d&d percentage dice


----------



## MasterMech

Adrian82 said:


> I have a PGM 22 and I noticed that when on the kickstand, from behind, the right drum is not engaging when the reel is activated. Is that normal?


It's on a differential like a car axle. If you reach out with your foot and stop the left drum, the right one should then spin.


----------



## MasterMech

Saints said:


> Looking for some info on this mower. The seller says it needs a new throttle sensor or that's what he was told. I believe it is a 122 model and looking at a parts list I do not see a throttle sensor listed. He is asking $350 and it's about 2 hours away from me to get. Does anyone think this would be worth it or just a problem waiting to happen? It looks to be in good shape otherwise. This would be my first reel mower so not sure what to expect.
> 
> 
> d20 virtual
> 
> d&d percentage dice


Unfortunately I'm not an expert in the Eclipse series. I think you know the risks you'd be taking with that unit. Only you know how confident you are in your mechanical ability. The good news is that Jake posts good service documentation on their website. Still, being your first reel mower, I think I'd look for a sure bet. Something that runs and cuts perfectly is much easier to get started with and touch up cosmetically later.


----------



## cglarsen

Other than Ebay, where are you guys finding your Jacobsen's? I'm interested in the 26" Greensking with Tee and Collar reel - that might be a good fit for me for next season. Seems that Jacobsen is a good value machine.


----------



## The Anti-Rebel

cglarsen said:


> Other than Ebay, where are you guys finding your Jacobsen's? I'm interested in the 26" Greensking with Tee and Collar reel - that might be a good fit for me for next season. Seems that Jacobsen is a good value machine.


https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=156


----------



## thelawnpirate

Looking for a high-level opinion of pros/cons of Jacobsen's. Initially was looking into a Toro GM or Tru-cut, so I'm more unfamiliar with these machines. 
Seller listing this one for $700 near me, but unsure of the year. Greensking 22", listed as in excellent condition. Thoughts?


----------



## TonyC

thelawnpirate said:


> Looking for a high-level opinion of pros/cons of Jacobsen's. Initially was looking into a Toro GM or Tru-cut, so I'm more unfamiliar with these machines.
> Seller listing this one for $700 near me, but unsure of the year. Greensking 22", listed as in excellent condition. Thoughts?


$350, no more. The machine is simply not worth it. It's two generations old and not worth 7 bills.


----------



## MasterMech

TonyC said:


> thelawnpirate said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking for a high-level opinion of pros/cons of Jacobsen's. Initially was looking into a Toro GM or Tru-cut, so I'm more unfamiliar with these machines.
> Seller listing this one for $700 near me, but unsure of the year. Greensking 22", listed as in excellent condition. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $350, no more. The machine is simply not worth it. It's two generations old and not worth 7 bills.
Click to expand...

Really? It's got the centrifugal clutch controls, what do the newer units have over that one? It's got the grass basket, no transport wheels, but that's not a deal breaker IMO. $700 seems pretty reasonable, a good deal even.


----------



## MasterMech

thelawnpirate said:


> Looking for a high-level opinion of pros/cons of Jacobsen's. Initially was looking into a Toro GM or Tru-cut, so I'm more unfamiliar with these machines.
> Seller listing this one for $700 near me, but unsure of the year. Greensking 22", listed as in excellent condition. Thoughts?


Excellent machines, the transport wheel hubs do not interfere as much as Toro or Deere IMO, at least I've never been tempted to cut mine off. These are professional quality greensmowers on par with any of the other fixed-head units. I like the parts availability, both aftermarket and OEM for Jacobsen is excellent. The technical literature is pretty easy to get too.

The centrifugal clutch controls on that unit are a breeze to operate too. Grab the handle and your off, let go and it stops. Feather it anywhere in between.


----------



## Jdaniel611

I agree with MasterMech not worth $700.


----------



## TonyC

@thelawnpirate , If you have $700 burning a hole in your pocket then spend it. I simply wouldn't pay that. My primary reel is a JAC TC-22, and I love it. Wheels, basket, groomer, and I prefer a floating head for our residential uneven lawns. The unit appears to be very clean, and the Honda engines are awesome but the reel looks questionable, and until you crack the side case you know nothing about the state of the mechanics of that machine. I've been tracking auction prices for all of the units and I would price that mower in the $300 to $500 range. Then plan for a $150 - $200 servicing, now your back up to $700, or do you want to be at $900?


----------



## DesertLawn

Hey everyone, so I had been looking to upgrade to a greens mower for a while now and so I picked up this greens king I found locally. After a new carburetor, the engine is running. The issue is that the reel does not engage when I pull the lever. I've made sure the reel clutch control and traction clutch control are engaged. I talked to a retired golf course mechanic over the phone and he said to adjust the play on the cable to that lever. I've adjusted it a bit and it doesn't seem to make a difference and I don't want to over adjust it either. Any help you guys could offer would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## NJ-lawn

I found this about an hour from my home.......seems a little high $?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jacobsen-526-Walk-Behind-26-putting-green-reel-mower-/262742904810?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10


----------



## Jdaniel611

@DesertLawn how high are you going to cut your grass with that reel? I ask only because it has a groomer and your height is very limited with it.


----------



## DesertLawn

Jdaniel611 said:


> @DesertLawn how high are you going to cut your grass with that reel? I ask only because it has a groomer and your height is very limited with it.


I honestly haven't gotten that far yet, I'm just trying to get it running but can't seem to figure out why the reel and drum aren't engaging.

That being said I've been cutting at about .75" with my craftsman reel. I did a quick and probably not super accurate check of this mower's current hoc and it looks to be set at about 5/8".


----------



## MasterMech

DesertLawn said:


> Hey everyone, so I had been looking to upgrade to a greens mower for a while now and so I picked up this greens king I found locally. After a new carburetor, the engine is running. The issue is that the reel does not engage when I pull the lever. I've made sure the reel clutch control and traction clutch control are engaged. I talked to a retired golf course mechanic over the phone and he said to adjust the play on the cable to that lever. I've adjusted it a bit and it doesn't seem to make a difference and I don't want to over adjust it either. Any help you guys could offer would be greatly appreciated.


Does it drive? And what specific model number is it? (ID tag should on the rear frame crossmember)


----------



## DesertLawn

MasterMech said:


> DesertLawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey everyone, so I had been looking to upgrade to a greens mower for a while now and so I picked up this greens king I found locally. After a new carburetor, the engine is running. The issue is that the reel does not engage when I pull the lever. I've made sure the reel clutch control and traction clutch control are engaged. I talked to a retired golf course mechanic over the phone and he said to adjust the play on the cable to that lever. I've adjusted it a bit and it doesn't seem to make a difference and I don't want to over adjust it either. Any help you guys could offer would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Does it drive? And what specific model number is it? (ID tag should on the rear frame crossmember)
Click to expand...

Hey MasterMech, after doing a quick video chat with the golf course mechanic he noticed that clutch mechanism was stuck due to rust/non-use so when the lever was pulled the plate couldn't engage the clutch. After some wd40 and some light tapping with a hammer it came loose and everything is working now.


----------



## Brackin4au

Bought a PGM22 at the weeks auction yesterday. Haven't gone to pick it up yet, but I'm pretty excited. I have a JD260SL, but this past season I started a putting green project, and switching the HOC from 0.7" for main yard to 0.156" for the putting green was getting old fast. Took longer to adjust the mower than it did to actually mow the green ha. So I picked up this Jacobsen at a good price to use strictly for the green. Hopefully it's in good shape, looked pretty good from the pics...


----------



## boots4321

Congrats Brackin! I would agree the hoc adjustment is a pita... The pgm's were designed with an engineering first mindset and they're solid. They haven't changed the design in 25 years and have stood the test of time. I prefer the chain driven drive vs belt and believe it delivers more torque to the reel.


----------



## Brackin4au

boots4321 said:


> Congrats Brackin! I would agree the hoc adjustment is a pita... The pgm's were designed with an engineering first mindset and they're solid. They haven't changed the design in 25 years and have stood the test of time. I prefer the chain driven drive vs belt and believe it delivers more torque to the reel.


Good to know... I look forward to trying something a little different. My JD is the only greensmower I've ever used, so I don't know anything else ha.... although I have tried out my buddy's Swardman Electra, but that's a whole different animal ha


----------



## coreystooks

Just picked up an Eclipse2 126 and for some reason it has the shorter roller brackets installed even though it should come stock with the taller ones. Can anyone confirm the part numbers from R&R for the taller brackets? I know a few pages back there was some talk about the part numbers being opposite of jacobsen and based on the pictures that seems to be the case but just wanted to double check before I ordered.


----------



## MasterMech

Jake spec's 3008438 and 3008439 as the front roller brackets for a floating head E2-126. If you have a fixed head unit, then the part number paradox does indeed apply just like the GreensKing units.


----------



## coreystooks

Thank you, sorry should have specified its the fixed head unit.


----------



## MasterMech

Bad news for the big Jake. 

I mentioned in the verticutter conversion thread that I had a bearing knock in the engine on my GK526A. Well, so I thought. While playing around with both machines last weekend, I noticed the clutch on the 526 "wobbled" when it was engaged. Like, a lot. So that explains the vibration I was feeling. So I figured that the engine and driveshaft were misaligned or perhaps the bearing in the clutch was sloppy. I took her apart proper this weekend, and my heart sank. It's that bearing alright. That $10 bearing siezed up and ruined the hub of the clutch. $500 for a replacement. Yeeoch.





This mower has always had a bit of a knock at idle, so I'm guessing the clutch has been like this for a long time. Technically I could mow with it like this for quite a while yet and just limit the idle time. But it will bug me to no end. I wanted to replace the traction axle on this machine this year due to the belt cover bearings seizing and wearing a similar grove in the traction axle. That only affects it when the transport wheels are mounted so I guess it'll have to wait.


----------



## JoshuaL

I'm pretty sure I'm missing something obvious but I can't figure out how to get the belt cover off my mower. Gone through the manual and I'm pretty sure everything is off. The problem seems to be this ridge on the shaft that the bearing can't clear. Any idea what I'm missing?


----------



## FlaDave

JoshuaL said:


> I'm pretty sure I'm missing something obvious but I can't figure out how to get the belt cover off my mower. Gone through the manual and I'm pretty sure everything is off. The problem seems to be this ridge on the shaft that the bearing can't clear. Any idea what I'm missing?


I can't say for sure but it looks like there is a keyway slot that has been modified. You might have to grind or file that down to get the bearing to clear that shaft. Is there a square slot on whatever goes on that shaft?


----------



## Kallgren

It's a bit dark in the shed to check my disassembled machine; are you photographing the operator's left side (viewed while operating the machine)?

My 522 has a smooth shaft. Remove all the fasteners, a light tap with a mallet, grasp the cover and pull along the direction of the shaft. Takes a bit of wiggling but should come off.

Your's looks like a square keyway. Does the cover get to the key way, but not past? My machines are fully round, no keyway.

If it is a keyway, knock it free and try again.


----------



## JoshuaL

Thanks y'all ended up just filing it down and cleared it. Now I just have to replace the broken belt I found ha


----------



## NoslracNevok

edit:


----------



## coreystooks

That's almost identical to the one I just picked up. Since it's been sitting it's most likely a fuel issue, those hondas are just about bulletproof. I would want it to start up that way you could make sure all the electronics are good before purchasing. Might just need some fresh fuel maybe a spark plug.


----------



## JoshuaL

Does anybody know how to find older model manuals? Trying to find the part number on the belt I need but the greens king manuals I am finding have a different type then the one on my mower.
Edit: I was able to find the part number but am not able to find it for sale. 



I'm looking for this belt, the 90 tooth. R&R lists the 518 as having the 7 rib micro V belt in that position but it doesn't fit my mower.


----------



## MasterMech

@JoshuaL With the 90 tooth belt instead of a micro-v, you may either have an early 518. model 062262, or a model 062254, which is actually the GreensKing 418. Do you have your exact model number? Both list the reel belt as 5002915 which is 90 tooth, and 17mm wide.

RR sells both 5002915 
https://www.rrproducts.com/search?k=5002915

and the number you provide, 5001123. 
https://www.rrproducts.com/search?k=5001123

A quick peek at Jake's online parts lookup yields:



Which is curious because R & R says those two belts are different widths. Looks like Jake is simply sub'ing the narrower belt for all applications.


----------



## MasterMech

BTW: Polychain is a Gates trademark, if there is a Gates part number legible on the belt, you may be able to to order it substantially cheaper from your local Fastenall or other similar supply house that carries Gates belts. You can take a few simple measurements and try to narrow it down on the Gates website as well. I was able to get down to 1 of 2 part numbers.


----------



## HARDatLURK

MasterMech said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> You need the longer front roller brackets which will raise it up to 1.25". Jake part no is 2000040
> 
> 
> 
> Are you sure it's not the 2000072 brackets?
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Depends on where you buy. :lol:
> 
> R&R has their wires crossed on this particular item. Order the xx40s from them and you'll get the short (normal) brackets. Order the xx72s and you get the long brackets.
> 
> And yes, I ordered both! -shrug-
> 
> The 63285 is the 7-blade tee/approach mower. (Just happens to be my machine too)
Click to expand...

are the "wires still crossed" at rr about the two roller brackets? i need the 2000072 extra long brackets, but dont want to order both the xx40s and the xx72s...


----------



## MasterMech

HARDatLURK said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are you sure it's not the 2000072 brackets?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on where you buy. :lol:
> 
> R&R has their wires crossed on this particular item. Order the xx40s from them and you'll get the short (normal) brackets. Order the xx72s and you get the long brackets.
> 
> And yes, I ordered both! -shrug-
> 
> The 63285 is the 7-blade tee/approach mower. (Just happens to be my machine too)
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> are the "wires still crossed" at rr about the two roller brackets? i need the 2000072 extra long brackets, but dont want to order both the xx40s and the xx72s...
Click to expand...

I will check tonight.


----------



## HARDatLURK

MasterMech said:


> HARDatLURK said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on where you buy. :lol:
> 
> R&R has their wires crossed on this particular item. Order the xx40s from them and you'll get the short (normal) brackets. Order the xx72s and you get the long brackets.
> 
> And yes, I ordered both! -shrug-
> 
> The 63285 is the 7-blade tee/approach mower. (Just happens to be my machine too)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> are the "wires still crossed" at rr about the two roller brackets? i need the 2000072 extra long brackets, but dont want to order both the xx40s and the xx72s...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I will check tonight.
Click to expand...

thanks! that would be a big help.


----------



## Brackin4au

Okay so I've finally gotten out and started working on getting my new(to me) PGM22 in shape for the spring. I've got some questions. So I used some mechanic in a bottle over the course of a couple days, and finally got it to crank... then it took off, luckily falling down and choking itself out. So I propped it up on the kickstand and I can now crank it with 1-2 pulls max, but the drive just takes off, even with the parking brake on (I think it is lose or broken anyway). All I can figure is that the clutch is stuck. I took the cover off to try and adjust, and cannot figure out any way to adjust anything...



I'm also having trouble adjusting reel to bedknife. Following the manual I'm turning the nut on the bottom side of the bracket here, and it's not changing anything. Is it just rusted up and not moving?



I also just happened to notice this cut wire while I was looking around the mower... what does that go to?


----------



## coreystooks

HARDatLURK said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HARDatLURK said:
> 
> 
> 
> are the "wires still crossed" at rr about the two roller brackets? i need the 2000072 extra long brackets, but dont want to order both the xx40s and the xx72s...
> 
> 
> 
> I will check tonight.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> thanks! that would be a big help.
Click to expand...

I can say that the xx72s are in fact the longer brackets, I just ordered a set about 2 weeks ago for my eclipse.


----------



## MasterMech

coreystooks said:


> HARDatLURK said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> I will check tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks! that would be a big help.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I can say that the xx72s are in fact the longer brackets, I just ordered a set about 2 weeks ago for my eclipse.
Click to expand...

I would take his experience over mine then since it's about 2 years newer.


----------



## MasterMech

Brackin4au said:


> Okay so I've finally gotten out and started working on getting my new(to me) PGM22 in shape for the spring. I've got some questions. So I used some mechanic in a bottle over the course of a couple days, and finally got it to crank... then it took off, luckily falling down and choking itself out. So I propped it up on the kickstand and I can now crank it with 1-2 pulls max, but the drive just takes off, even with the parking brake on (I think it is lose or broken anyway). All I can figure is that the clutch is stuck. I took the cover off to try and adjust, and cannot figure out any way to adjust anything...
> 
> 
> 
> I'm also having trouble adjusting reel to bedknife. Following the manual I'm turning the nut on the bottom side of the bracket here, and it's not changing anything. Is it just rusted up and not moving?
> 
> 
> 
> I also just happened to notice this cut wire while I was looking around the mower... what does that go to?


Your cut wire actually looks to be the second parking brake cable.

Does the drive shaft turn if you pull the engine over slow with the recoil starter?


----------



## Brackin4au

MasterMech said:


> Your cut wire actually looks to be the second parking brake cable.
> 
> Does the drive shaft turn if you pull the engine over slow with the recoil starter?


That makes sense. Bc the parking brake doesn't seem to do anything ha.

The drive shaft does not turn if pulling the recoil starter slowly.


----------



## MasterMech

Brackin4au said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> Your cut wire actually looks to be the second parking brake cable.
> 
> Does the drive shaft turn if you pull the engine over slow with the recoil starter?
> 
> 
> 
> That makes sense. Bc the parking brake doesn't seem to do anything ha.
> 
> The drive shaft does not turn if pulling the recoil starter slowly.
Click to expand...

Then your clutch is not stuck. It is a centrifugal clutch, so if the engine speed is high, it will engage and your off! If the bail on your loop handle is not pressed, then the engine should idle. It might need the throttle cable adjusted if it wants to run high.


----------



## Brackin4au

MasterMech said:


> Brackin4au said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> Your cut wire actually looks to be the second parking brake cable.
> 
> Does the drive shaft turn if you pull the engine over slow with the recoil starter?
> 
> 
> 
> That makes sense. Bc the parking brake doesn't seem to do anything ha.
> 
> The drive shaft does not turn if pulling the recoil starter slowly.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Then your clutch is not stuck. It is a centrifugal clutch, so if the engine speed is high, it will engage and your off! If the bail on your loop handle is not pressed, then the engine should idle. It might need the throttle cable adjusted if it wants to run high.
Click to expand...

Alright I'll try to work on the throttle next. Thanks!


----------



## Brackin4au

MasterMech said:


> If the bail on your loop handle is not pressed, then the engine should idle. It might need the throttle cable adjusted if it wants to run high.


Spot on man. Thanks! I didn't have time to adjust it properly, but checked the throttle and the spring seems too tight to let it drop all the way into idle. Cranked the mower and manually pushed the throttle into lowest position, and everything slowed down and idled. No drum drive or clutch spinning. I'll adjust it permanently when I get a chance.

Any advice on the reel to bedknife adjustment I mentioned?

Edit: I figured out that adjustment. Also adjusted the throttle properly (I think) and Ol Jake is running pretty smooth.

Now I need some advice on addressing this....





Will this be okay to just file down? I'm probably going to take it to my local golf course guy for a grind anyway, will that take it out? I need to put a new bedknife on it anyway, so if it'll grind out, I'll just let him handle it...


----------



## coreystooks

Was wondering if anyone with a 26" eclipse has had any luck sourcing a reel? Mine will probably need replaced within a year or two and R&R doesn't sell one for the 26" model. Can get it straight from Jacobsen but it's almost $900 on there.


----------



## MasterMech

Brackin4au said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> If the bail on your loop handle is not pressed, then the engine should idle. It might need the throttle cable adjusted if it wants to run high.
> 
> 
> 
> Spot on man. Thanks! I didn't have time to adjust it properly, but checked the throttle and the spring seems too tight to let it drop all the way into idle. Cranked the mower and manually pushed the throttle into lowest position, and everything slowed down and idled. No drum drive or clutch spinning. I'll adjust it permanently when I get a chance.
> 
> Any advice on the reel to bedknife adjustment I mentioned?
> 
> Edit: I figured out that adjustment. Also adjusted the throttle properly (I think) and Ol Jake is running pretty smooth.
> 
> Now I need some advice on addressing this....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will this be okay to just file down? I'm probably going to take it to my local golf course guy for a grind anyway, will that take it out? I need to put a new bedknife on it anyway, so if it'll grind out, I'll just let him handle it...
Click to expand...

I did not see that nasty tear in the reel. A grind won't make it disappear but it will true the rest of the reel so you can use a new bedknife.


----------



## Brackin4au

@MasterMech yeah I sent the pic to the guy I'm gonna have grind it. He essentially said the same thing. Won't be able to get it perfect, but he can get it useable.


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Picked this up at an auction, I am thinking it is a Greens King 522A. What is throwing me off though is the black cover next to the engine...can't find another one online that has it extend all the way from side to side. Any thoughts? No idea if it works or not but plan to just work on it as a side project. Can't pick it up for awhile until the quarantine stops so just looking to get any information that ya'll might have. Thank you!
Edit: Oh, the auction said the serial number is 62256 1756


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Had some more time to look around this morning and based on the model number, I am pretty sure it is a Greens King 26" 426-7 Honda...now to wait until the 11th when I can go pick it up and start working on it.


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Good Afternoon,
I got the 426 running and put in a new carb. Got the reel engaged and it appears that I have some rubbing on the inside of the left hand part of the reel. 
I am assuming that one or two of the blades are bent or misshapen some but I have not taken it off yet.

Has anyone come across this?

Edit to add that you can see sparks starting at the 09 second mark.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKkpgUJjBNY


----------



## MasterMech

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> Good Afternoon,
> I got the 426 running and put in a new carb. Got the reel engaged and it appears that I have some rubbing on the inside of the left hand part of the reel.
> I am assuming that one or two of the blades are bent or misshapen some but I have not taken it off yet.
> 
> Has anyone come across this?
> 
> Edit to add that you can see sparks starting at the 09 second mark.


Clearance of the reel end to the frame is controlled by a nut and a lock nut on the right hand side of the reel. (As viewed from behind the mower). Also, it's possible the grass shield is rubbing a bit on that side, may want to check it out too.


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Great, thank you @MasterMech...will check it out tomorrow. I really appreciate it!


----------



## PLOmaha

Hi there, so I just got this 1994 Jacobsen PGM22. The reel clutch control switch was intermittently sticky, so I found banging it with a hammer (Ok fine a wrench) to disengage or engage it did the trick.

Much to my shock and horror, one day the reel stayed in disengage mode, and moving the switch between "disengage" and "engage" wouldn't make the reel work anymore.

Any thoughts what will be involved to fix this?


----------



## Winnings

Hello all I have an opportunity to purchase a 2016 Eclipse 122F gas with 6 hours on it. It was a demo model and was never used or sold, dealer has it in the backroom of his shop. I have two questions: 1. Would $3,000 be to much, it is 4 years old but really close to new? 2. Is there a way to raise the HOC? I have a Bermuda lawn but never reel mowed it. I currently cut it at 1.25 inches with a rotary mower. I would like to slowly take it down to help the Bermuda adjust to the HOC. I also have more lawn leveling work to do. Thanks for your input.


----------



## Kallgren

Just checked the users manual on line for the series. Looks like a fixed head version and floating head version are available. Adjustable frequency of cut, some type of adjustment for front roller weight (weight jacking). Fancy on board display. Feature rich as they might say.

I would check what bedknife is installed, looks like there are 5 options, the high profile looks like range from 4-11 mm (5/32" - 7/16").

For basically a new machine and if you can leverage the features it looks swell, if money is not a problem.

If you aren't cutting a putting green and can't leverage the feature set, looks spendy.

If the dealer says there is a high cut conversion kit, I would give some serious consideration. I didn't see an option in the users manual.

As an aside, I used to teach high performance driving at the racetrack with a couple of car clubs. A group of guys came to an event with current model Porsche 911 Turbocharged cars (in the $180k range). None of them could drive at a level that the machines were capable of. They had money to spend, which is fine, but would have gotten a lot more learning if they just brought a daily driver.

For clarity, I looked at the Eclipse 2 inCommand Technical Manual (Jacobsen Manual #4260472-F). You should check with the dealer if this is the correct manual, it covers ~10 different configurations.


----------



## Kallgren

PLOmaha said:


> Much to my shock and horror, one day the reel stayed in disengage mode, and moving the switch between "disengage" and "engage" wouldn't make the reel work anymore.
> 
> Any thoughts what will be involved to fix this


On my Greensking 522, there is a little nub on the part you are holding in your left hand (not visible in the photo). It was worn down severely to the extent I had similar problems, more photos of that part might help, or compare to the companion the engages the drum drive.


----------



## coreystooks

@Winnings I have the same mower but mines a 26" fixed head. On the fixed head models there's an optional bracket kit that allows a HOC or just over an inch. If I recall there's a couple of guys on here with floating head models that have found optional brackets as well. If you can swing the price I would go for it they are awesome machines, adjustable FOC, adjustable drive speed, onboard backlapping, etc. As far as bringing your HOC down it does bermuda no good to do it gradually it's best to just take it down slightly under your intended HOC and then maintain at your desired HOC.


----------



## M311att

@MasterMech What is the function of the panhard bar on a floating head eclipse 122F? Thanks


----------



## Winnings

@coreystooks @Kallgren Thank you both for getting back to me. You both have valid points. I feel like for my first reel mower this is over kill. However, this would be a forever mower. Thanks again!


----------



## MasterMech

Winnings said:


> Hello all I have an opportunity to purchase a 2016 Eclipse 122F gas with 6 hours on it. It was a demo model and was never used or sold, dealer has it in the backroom of his shop. I have two questions: 1. Would $3,000 be to much, it is 4 years old but really close to new? 2. Is there a way to raise the HOC? I have a Bermuda lawn but never reel mowed it. I currently cut it at 1.25 inches with a rotary mower. I would like to slowly take it down to help the Bermuda adjust to the HOC. I also have more lawn leveling work to do. Thanks for your input.


+1 on not going down slow on the HoC. I made this mistake when I moved into my current home from a cool-season lawn. 
Take it to the dirt and let it grow back into your desired HoC.


----------



## MasterMech

M311att said:


> @MasterMech What is the function of the panhard bar on a floating head eclipse 122F? Thanks


It is there to prevent lateral movement of the cutting unit as it pivots on the push frame. Basically just ensures the cutting unit tracks consistently with the traction unit.


----------



## MasterMech

PLOmaha said:


> Hi there, so I just got this 1994 Jacobsen PGM22. The reel clutch control switch was intermittently sticky, so I found banging it with a hammer (Ok fine a wrench) to disengage or engage it did the trick.
> 
> Much to my shock and horror, one day the reel stayed in disengage mode, and moving the switch between "disengage" and "engage" wouldn't make the reel work anymore.
> 
> Any thoughts what will be involved to fix this?


Got yourself a golden oldie there!

503438 - Clutch kit (This is the part you broke)

You may need more parts like the chain case gaskets on your way in too. I would take it apart in order to asses the condition of the reel and traction clutches before putting together a parts order.

Service manual - http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/4171663.pdf?m=1297349566


----------



## tblood

Sorry. Double post. I had an itchy trigger finger.


----------



## tblood

I have some verticutter blades with the 22" shaft, nut and set screw available if anyone is interested. I tried to put the blades on a different mower, but it didn't work the way I wanted it to, so I am letting them go. R&R part numbers say the shaft will fit the 422 and 522 series mowers.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=16994


----------



## PLOmaha

MasterMech said:


> PLOmaha said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi there, so I just got this 1994 Jacobsen PGM22. The reel clutch control switch was intermittently sticky, so I found banging it with a hammer (Ok fine a wrench) to disengage or engage it did the trick.
> 
> Much to my shock and horror, one day the reel stayed in disengage mode, and moving the switch between "disengage" and "engage" wouldn't make the reel work anymore.
> 
> Any thoughts what will be involved to fix this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got yourself a golden oldie there!
> 
> 503438 - Clutch kit (This is the part you broke)
> 
> You may need more parts like the chain case gaskets on your way in too. I would take it apart in order to asses the condition of the reel and traction clutches before putting together a parts order.
> 
> Service manual - http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/4171663.pdf?m=1297349566
Click to expand...

Thank you! Wish me luck!


----------



## PLOmaha

PLOmaha said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PLOmaha said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi there, so I just got this 1994 Jacobsen PGM22. The reel clutch control switch was intermittently sticky, so I found banging it with a hammer (Ok fine a wrench) to disengage or engage it did the trick.
> 
> Much to my shock and horror, one day the reel stayed in disengage mode, and moving the switch between "disengage" and "engage" wouldn't make the reel work anymore.
> 
> Any thoughts what will be involved to fix this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got yourself a golden oldie there!
> 
> 503438 - Clutch kit (This is the part you broke)
> 
> You may need more parts like the chain case gaskets on your way in too. I would take it apart in order to asses the condition of the reel and traction clutches before putting together a parts order.
> 
> Service manual - http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/4171663.pdf?m=1297349566
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you! Wish me luck!
Click to expand...

@MasterMech: How much of an undertaking will it be to take apart? Will I need any special tools or lubrication? My mechanical skills are slim, but I don't mind a challenge. However I don't want to risk making more of a mess, so could puss out and take it to a professional. Thanks in advance!


----------



## MasterMech

PLOmaha said:


> PLOmaha said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> Got yourself a golden oldie there!
> 
> 503438 - Clutch kit (This is the part you broke)
> 
> You may need more parts like the chain case gaskets on your way in too. I would take it apart in order to asses the condition of the reel and traction clutches before putting together a parts order.
> 
> Service manual - http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/4171663.pdf?m=1297349566
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you! Wish me luck!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @MasterMech: How much of an undertaking will it be to take apart? Will I need any special tools or lubrication? My mechanical skills are slim, but I don't mind a challenge. However I don't want to risk making more of a mess, so could puss out and take it to a professional. Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...



It looks pretty easy, pretty similar to my GreensKing mowers. You'll need to remove anything to do with the left transport wheel, and then the chain case screws. It should come right off then. You will have oil to deal with when you pull the cover.


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

MasterMech said:


> MNLawnGuy1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Good Afternoon,
> I got the 426 running and put in a new carb. Got the reel engaged and it appears that I have some rubbing on the inside of the left hand part of the reel.
> I am assuming that one or two of the blades are bent or misshapen some but I have not taken it off yet.
> 
> Has anyone come across this?
> 
> Edit to add that you can see sparks starting at the 09 second mark.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Clearance of the reel end to the frame is controlled by a nut and a lock nut on the right hand side of the reel. (As viewed from behind the mower). Also, it's possible the grass shield is rubbing a bit on that side, may want to check it out too.
Click to expand...

Thanks @MasterMech...I was able to get the grass shield off and it became more apparent that the reel is out of whack and not centered. The nut and lock nut you mention, is that the jam nut I have in the highlighted area on the third photo? The only service shop is an hour away and I would like to be able to figure it out but am having a heck of a time with it!
Right side:

Left side:

Manual Diagram:


----------



## MasterMech

@MNLawnGuy1980 That's the one. How many threads are sticking out of the jam nut?


----------



## TonyC

Winnings said:


> Hello all I have an opportunity to purchase a 2016 Eclipse 122F gas with 6 hours on it. It was a demo model and was never used or sold, dealer has it in the backroom of his shop. I have two questions: 1. Would $3,000 be to much, it is 4 years old but really close to new? 2. Is there a way to raise the HOC? I have a Bermuda lawn but never reel mowed it. I currently cut it at 1.25 inches with a rotary mower. I would like to slowly take it down to help the Bermuda adjust to the HOC. I also have more lawn leveling work to do. Thanks for your input.


You want to pay $3K? Go get a Swardman.


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Thanks @MasterMech, I don't have any threads sticking out as it appears to just be a bolt in there.


----------



## MasterMech

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> Thanks @MasterMech, I don't have any threads sticking out as it appears to just be a bolt in there.


Ah yes, you have a groomer mounted. The spring nut and the jam nut are behind that. I'm not real familiar with the groomers, although I'd like to be! There may be a way to access it with dismounting the whole groomer?


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Sounds good @MasterMech, I will give it a go because I am pretty sure I have instructions on that. Thank you so much for your help on this, it is extremely kind of you to share your knowledge on these machines. Have a great day!


----------



## PLOmaha

Kallgren said:


> PLOmaha said:
> 
> 
> 
> Much to my shock and horror, one day the reel stayed in disengage mode, and moving the switch between "disengage" and "engage" wouldn't make the reel work anymore.
> 
> Any thoughts what will be involved to fix this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my Greensking 522, there is a little nub on the part you are holding in your left hand (not visible in the photo). It was worn down severely to the extent I had similar problems, more photos of that part might help, or compare to the companion the engages the drum drive.
Click to expand...

Yes you're right thanks I think I severed that nub and it's sitting in the reel clutch. Planning on taking it apart to inspect.


----------



## MasterMech

PLOmaha said:


> Kallgren said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> PLOmaha said:
> 
> 
> 
> Much to my shock and horror, one day the reel stayed in disengage mode, and moving the switch between "disengage" and "engage" wouldn't make the reel work anymore.
> 
> Any thoughts what will be involved to fix this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On my Greensking 522, there is a little nub on the part you are holding in your left hand (not visible in the photo). It was worn down severely to the extent I had similar problems, more photos of that part might help, or compare to the companion the engages the drum drive.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes you're right thanks I think I severed that nub and it's sitting in the reel clutch. Planning on taking it apart to inspect.
Click to expand...

You're likely to find the bottom section of that piece with the pin still in it laying in the chain case. The Greensking 4/500 mowers use an all cast lever with the nub on the end like @Kallgren mentioned. The PGMs use a machined shaft (you're holding 80% of it in your photo :lol with a pin pressed into the bottom perpendicular to the axis of the shaft.


----------



## PLOmaha

Ok here's the money shot we have all been waiting for.

Sure enough that little nub was sitting in the bottom of the chain cover.

I was wondering why that nub broke off in the first place. Checked the owners manual and sure enough there was the warning:

"WARNING
To prevent bodily injury or property damage,
never engage the drive joint, reel or traction clutch
levers while the engine is running or the O.P.C.
bail is engaged."

In the second picture I am pointing at 2 keys (the little pieces that look like the fins of a rocket.) They fell out when I removed the reel clutch, but seem to be in find condition.

So correct me if I'm wrong, but it would appear that I probably broke that nub off the reel lever when I was engaging the reel clutch when the engine was running. Eg; the only part I need to replace is that reel clutch lever?


----------



## PLOmaha

I ordered the reel clutch kit. Should I replace the gasket to the chain cover? The parts distributor here in Canada is out of stock, so it will take a week for them to order from Jacobsend.


----------



## MasterMech

PLOmaha said:


> I ordered the reel clutch kit. Should I replace the gasket to the chain cover? The parts distributor here in Canada is out of stock, so it will take a week for them to order from Jacobsend.


How thick is that gasket and did it survive you pulling the chain case cover?


----------



## PLOmaha

It's pretty thin, less than 2mm. I might as well do the job right and wait for the gasket I guess


----------



## MasterMech

PLOmaha said:


> It's pretty thin, less than 2mm. I might as well do the job right and wait for the gasket I guess


I probably would if I wasn't desperate to get the mower back in service. If the gasket did not stick & tear when you removed the cover, you might be able to just stick it back together. No shame in hitting it with some Spray-A-Gasket and putting it back in service if you need it sooner.


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

I bit the bullet and brought it in. Was sick of working on it and questioning my every move. When I called to bring it in, I told them that the reel had shifted to the side and he immediately said it was more than likely the bearings were shot and would need to be replaced. He then says (over the phone) that they will just go ahead and replace the whole reel because that is probably worn as well, and since the reel is being replaced, they will need to do the bed knife. 
Is that thought process stemming from the fact that they typically repair these for golf courses and they may go through reels quicker with the amount of grinding they do on them, and golf courses may be more inclined to just change reels often?

Is it standard to replace the whole reel and bedknife when replacing the bearings? The fact that he said it over the phone without looking at it makes me a little hesitant. How would I tell if the reel is too worn down to work with?

Thank you


----------



## MasterMech

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> How would I tell if the reel is too worn down to work with?
> 
> Thank you


To measure reel wear, you must measure the diameter at both ends and the middle. There is a special "reel tape" to do so but it can be improvised.

He's probably not wasting your money, because unless the reel is in excellent condition, it's just as much labor to replace the reel as it is to replace the bearings. Even if it's salvageable, it's likely to need enough time on the grinder to return it to a true cylinder to justify just replacing it since the reel must come completely out of the frame to replace the bearings. The bedknife is a given, as they are considered consumables and I would not normally reuse a knife with a new or freshly ground (sharpened) reel.

Since you are replacing the reel, I would ask for a 7-blade replacement reel unless you plan to cut lower than .250". For the bedknife I would request a "high-cut" for heights .250"-.625" and a "Fairway" or "Heavy" knife for .500"-1.0"+.


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Good stuff, thank you @MasterMech. I just wanted to make sure on it as it seemed a little weird, thank you again. Should probably just buy an updated 526 that isn't 25 years old but I am not seeing a lot out there.


----------



## MasterMech

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> Good stuff, thank you @MasterMech. I just wanted to make sure on it as it seemed a little weird, thank you again. Should probably just buy an updated 526 that isn't 25 years old but I am not seeing a lot out there.


Outside of the golf and sports turf professional community, Jacobsen is just not a well-known name for lawn equipment. So the market for used Deere/Toro units is much broader than Jake. That doesn't change my opinion that the Jake GreensKing 4/500 series walk mowers are excellent units for home lawns. Your best bet would be to buy a unit from a Weeks auction or similar and plan to have it refurbed. The other option is Prarie Turf as several members here have used them to obtain premium units in excellent condition. For a price of course!

My opinion is that there's not enough different between the 426 you have and a 526 that will likely need refurbishing anyways to abandon the 426. Plus, yours has a groomer already, and that's relatively rare on a 26" mower. Yours being a 426 which was only built for a handful of years, makes it a rare unit indeed!


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Sounds good @MasterMech. Sounds like the 426 is what I am going to stay with, have them get it to where it needs to be and see how it goes. Will share pics or vid once I get it back. Have a great weekend


----------



## slammed68

Busted the reel on my 522a yesterday, right as my yard is starting to really fill in and grow.

I bought the mower last year when I I was in the middle of moving from Austin to DFW. I didnt get a chance to see it in person but it ran well, cut paper, ect. Once I got it I noticed that one edge of the reel had a couple slightly bent blades and maybe a cracked weld. It still cut well so I figured I would use it as is. This is my first reel mower so I figured I might tear it up any way with some rookie mistakes.

Yesterday I must have caught a small rock or piece of bark and it looks like a couple of welds let go. It still cuts ok, not great but well enough that I finished mowing the back yard and the entire front. Looks like I have a project in my future.

I was really hoping I could use this reel until after I level the yard but now i'm thinking this will be a good project to do while the yard fills back in. Just need to hurry up and order some sand now.

I think I know the answer to this but i'll ask anyways. I currently have an 11 blade reel, does anyone make a 7 blade for the 522 or is 11 the lowest?


----------



## MasterMech

slammed68 said:


> Busted the reel on my 522a yesterday, right as my yard is starting to really fill in and grow.
> 
> I bought the mower last year when I I was in the middle of moving from Austin to DFW. I didnt get a chance to see it in person but it ran well, cut paper, ect. Once I got it I noticed that one edge of the reel had a couple slightly bent blades and maybe a cracked weld. It still cut well so I figured I would use it as is. This is my first reel mower so I figured I might tear it up any way with some rookie mistakes.
> 
> Yesterday I must have caught a small rock or piece of bark and it looks like a couple of welds let go. It still cuts ok, not great but well enough that I finished mowing the back yard and the entire front. Looks like I have a project in my future.
> 
> I was really hoping I could use this reel until after I level the yard but now i'm thinking this will be a good project to do while the yard fills back in. Just need to hurry up and order some sand now.
> 
> I think I know the answer to this but i'll ask anyways. I currently have an 11 blade reel, does anyone make a 7 blade for the 522 or is 11 the lowest?


Yes, there is a 7-blade option for the 22" machines. Both R&R and Jake sell them. The 7 blade reel combined with a heavy knife will be much more tolerant of stones/mulch too. Ask me how I know! :lol:

This thread is how I broke mine, and how to put it back together.
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=2471

If you're interested, I have an 11-blade leftover from my 522 verticutter conversion that I'd sell for cheap, basically cover the cost of packing and shipping it. It's got at least 80% remaining, and it cut well before I removed it from the machine. Pick up a new bedknife/screws/bearings/seals, and throw this reel in. You'll be back to 100% in no time.


----------



## MasterMech

Also, let me know if you want my parts lists. I keep parts for this repair as a list on R & R's site. Just in case!


----------



## slammed68

Really appreciate the offer on your old reel! I may take you up on that but in the meantime could you send me your parts list? I figured I might as well replace bearings and seals while i'm in there so i'm trying to put together a shopping cart on R&R.

I havent been able to find a 7 blade reel for the 522, I can only seem to find them for the 26. Not the end of the world, just thought the 7 blade might be more flexible for my HOC.

I actually read your post previously and was planning to use it as a reference since it's so detailed.

For the price you can occasionally get a used mower for, I was pretty tempted to buy a second mower and convert one to a verticutter, wife already thinks I have a problem tho....shes probably right.


----------



## MasterMech

slammed68 said:


> Really appreciate the offer on your old reel! I may take you up on that but in the meantime could you send me your parts list? I figured I might as well replace bearings and seals while i'm in there so i'm trying to put together a shopping cart on R&R.
> 
> I havent been able to find a 7 blade reel for the 522, I can only seem to find them for the 26. Not the end of the world, just thought the 7 blade might be more flexible for my HOC.
> 
> I actually read your post previously and was planning to use it as a reference since it's so detailed.
> 
> For the price you can occasionally get a used mower for, I was pretty tempted to buy a second mower and convert one to a verticutter, wife already thinks I have a problem tho....shes probably right.


I'll be real upfront with you re: the verticutter conversion. It ain't cheap. And you can go buy a used flail type machine for a lot less than what I paid for my mower + parts. BUT. I can use my verticutter as a fairway groomer of sorts which is why I wanted to go that route. And I sprung for DynaBlades on 1/2" spacing instead of the plain steel ones on 3/4" spacing. @tblood is offering up the entire conversion kit for a 522 less spacers if you're interested.

I gotta eat my words re: the 7-blade and heavy knife availability for the 522. Jake and R&R both only offer 11 blade setups. Which is annoying because there are 7/9 blade options offered for 5" reel floating head 22" units used on G-plexes or Greens King triplexes.

Seal - R366650, Qty 2 
Seal - R364170, Qty 1
Locknut - R3296-15, Qty 1 (Having 1 or two extras of these is not a bad thing)
R500534 - Bearing w/cup, Qty 2
R3666649 - Seal, Qty 1
R5000148 - 22" 11-Bld Reel 
R503477 - 22" Thick Knife

Optional:
R545940 - Bed Shoe Bushing, Qty 2


----------



## slammed68

Awesome, thanks for the list!


----------



## tblood

MasterMech said:


> slammed68 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Really appreciate the offer on your old reel! I may take you up on that but in the meantime could you send me your parts list? I figured I might as well replace bearings and seals while i'm in there so i'm trying to put together a shopping cart on R&R.
> 
> I havent been able to find a 7 blade reel for the 522, I can only seem to find them for the 26. Not the end of the world, just thought the 7 blade might be more flexible for my HOC.
> 
> I actually read your post previously and was planning to use it as a reference since it's so detailed.
> 
> For the price you can occasionally get a used mower for, I was pretty tempted to buy a second mower and convert one to a verticutter, wife already thinks I have a problem tho....shes probably right.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be real upfront with you re: the verticutter conversion. It ain't cheap. And you can go buy a used flail type machine for a lot less than what I paid for my mower + parts. BUT. I can use my verticutter as a fairway groomer of sorts which is why I wanted to go that route. And I sprung for DynaBlades on 1/2" spacing instead of the plain steel ones on 3/4" spacing. @tblood is offering up the entire conversion kit for a 522 less spacers if you're interested.
> 
> I gotta eat my words re: the 7-blade and heavy knife availability for the 522. Jake and R&R both only offer 11 blade setups. Which is annoying because there are 7/9 blade options offered for 5" reel floating head 22" units used on G-plexes or Greens King triplexes.
> 
> Seal - R366650, Qty 2
> Seal - R364170, Qty 1
> Locknut - R3296-15, Qty 1 (Having 1 or two extras of these is not a bad thing)
> R500534 - Bearing w/cup, Qty 2
> R3666649 - Seal, Qty 1
> R5000148 - 22" 11-Bld Reel
> R503477 - 22" Thick Knife
> 
> Optional:
> R545940 - Bed Shoe Bushing, Qty 2
Click to expand...

@slammed68 I am including the spacers with the verticutter conversion now. I didn't need them for my project. The Swardman spacers worked fine. There are a lot more spacers and blades than what come with the kit from R&R.


----------



## DR_GREENTHUMB

My reel quit spinning. I have previously replaced the bail cord/wire, and believe the bail works and the switch is operating. I believe the switch is working as I placed the mower in backlap mode, and the mower beeps and the switch seems function and the mower goes into backlap mode. I know this is vague, but if you know these mowers I think you will understand. I think the reel motor is bad, can I test continuity on this motor, or is there something else I need to test? I have pulled the wire connectors and tested the switch, but I am stumped and believe the motor is bad. Growing season is on, and I am maintaining at .4MM so I need something fast! TIA


----------



## coreystooks

If I'm not mistaken there's a way to test the motors in the menus. I take it the reel didn't spin in backlap mode as well? These motors are supposed to be nearly bulletproof. How's the bedknife contact? When I first purchased mine the reel wouldn't spin because it was too tight to the bedknife.


----------



## M311att

Had this happen on my 122f. Mine would run fine in backlap mode. I ended up changing the reel bearings and motor/shaft coupler. I think the teeth in the coupler work fine backwards because they aren't typically worn that much in that direction. Good luck.


----------



## Colinwjholding

Hey guys new to the thread. Just wondering if anyone can give me some more info on the model of my mower. Its running great but i just want to known for future parts.


----------



## PLOmaha

Looks like the coveted PGM22? Welcome! I just got mine last month


----------



## metro424

DR_GREENTHUMB said:


> My reel quit spinning. I have previously replaced the bail cord/wire, and believe the bail works and the switch is operating. I believe the switch is working as I placed the mower in backlap mode, and the mower beeps and the switch seems function and the mower goes into backlap mode. I know this is vague, but if you know these mowers I think you will understand. I think the reel motor is bad, can I test continuity on this motor, or is there something else I need to test? I have pulled the wire connectors and tested the switch, but I am stumped and believe the motor is bad. Growing season is on, and I am maintaining at .4MM so I need something fast! TIA


I had a bad motor that I replaced. You can use the right button to scroll to reel speed/ drive speed. My computer was saying that the mower was moving at 3.4mph when I had the bail lever engage but it wasn't actually moving. I swapped it out and it worked perfectly.


----------



## DR_GREENTHUMB

metro424 said:


> DR_GREENTHUMB said:
> 
> 
> 
> My reel quit spinning. I have previously replaced the bail cord/wire, and believe the bail works and the switch is operating. I believe the switch is working as I placed the mower in backlap mode, and the mower beeps and the switch seems function and the mower goes into backlap mode. I know this is vague, but if you know these mowers I think you will understand. I think the reel motor is bad, can I test continuity on this motor, or is there something else I need to test? I have pulled the wire connectors and tested the switch, but I am stumped and believe the motor is bad. Growing season is on, and I am maintaining at .4MM so I need something fast! TIA
> 
> 
> 
> I had a bad motor that I replaced. You can use the right button to scroll to reel speed/ drive speed. My computer was saying that the mower was moving at 3.4mph when I had the bail lever engage but it wasn't actually moving. I swapped it out and it worked perfectly.
Click to expand...

Where did you find the motor? They are $2K on the jacobsen website, and I found one on eBay for $500?


----------



## metro424

I bought a whole parts mower to replace the traction motor/wiring harness m. I do have a spare reel motor what's the part number on yours?


----------



## DR_GREENTHUMB

@metro424


----------



## Jimefam

I have a 526a and I cut yesterday down to the lowest it will allow me to go which was .55". If I want to go any lower do I need to just switch the brackets or do I need a new reel and bedknife? At what point is the 7 blade reel a problem and better off going with the 9 or 11? Here are some pictures of it at the lowest ive ever cut it. I also ran the sunjoe scarifier at -10 in multiple directions so it looks a bit rough but not as bad as I was expecting and i think its level enough that i can go lower. But id like some feedback. Main reason for wanting to go lower is i feel like it still needs to get much more dense.


----------



## Adrian82

Do I need anything other than a punch to get the pin out in order to remove the chain cover on the PGM 22?


----------



## FlaDave

Adrian82 said:


> Do I need anything other than a punch to get the pin out in order to remove the chain cover on the PGM 22?


Punch/pull that roll pin. That bearing needs to slide off that shaft. You may need to lightly sand and lube the shaft for it to slide off easy. Assuming you have everything else off.


----------



## metro424

DR_GREENTHUMB said:


> @metro424




Looks to be the same part number I believe.


----------



## DR_GREENTHUMB

metro424 said:


> DR_GREENTHUMB said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @metro424
> 
> 
> 
> What would it take to get it to me?
> 
> 
> 
> Looks to be the same part number I believe.
Click to expand...


----------



## slammed68

Jimefam said:


> I have a 526a and I cut yesterday down to the lowest it will allow me to go which was .55". If I want to go any lower do I need to just switch the brackets or do I need a new reel and bedknife? At what point is the 7 blade reel a problem and better off going with the 9 or 11? Here are some pictures of it at the lowest ive ever cut it. I also ran the sunjoe scarifier at -10 in multiple directions so it looks a bit rough but not as bad as I was expecting and i think its level enough that i can go lower. But id like some feedback. Main reason for wanting to go lower is i feel like it still needs to get much more dense.


If your HOC brackets are bottomed out then you will need new brackets to cut lower.

A new reel and bedknife wont let you go any lower but they could improve the quality of cut depending on how low you go. Generally the lower you go the lower your frequency of clip (FOC) should be. Here is an article explaining FOC https://www.gcmonline.com/course/environment/news/frequency-of-clip but I generally understand it to be the distance the mower travels between two blades cutting.

If you think about the tip of a short grass blade vs a longer grass blade bending over in an arc, the shorter blade of grass has less lateral distance from it's center point that it remains above the cut height. idk how true it is but ive always thought that tall grass needs more distance between cuts to allow for the grass blade to get between two blades after being folder over.

Here is a quick sketch I made that shows the perfect (ie wont happen in the real world) scenario of .5 and 1 inch cut height where the grass is .25 taller than the cut height. You can see that the longer blade of grass has more distance from it's center point where it can still remain above the bed knife to be cut.


All that being said, there are too many variables to try and calculate exactly what would be best. I would get brackets first and just drop the HOC before you worry about dropping a bunch of money and time on swapping out the reel. If you start to see wash boarding you could make multiple passes from different directions or decide to get a new reel at some point. If you decide on a new reel I would recommend a 9 blade. I have an 11 blade reel on my 522 and I notice that the cut quality starts to drop off around .75 or higher. If I had the choice between a 7, 9, or 11, I think the 9 would be right in the sweet spot.


----------



## MasterMech

@Jimefam 
@slammed68

The FoC for a 7-blade reel is .250" so there is no "need" to go to an 11-blade reel until the HoC gets down to that .250" or lower.

All Jimefam needs to go lower is the standard front roller brackets.

My experience with a Jake 11-blade reel and a hi-cut knife are that they cut very well in the .375-.500" range. For .750"+, 7 is the way to go. I swap to a 7 whenever possible for use on my home lawn because the reel blades are twice as thick with nearly twice the gap in-between. This allows the machine to deal with "trash" in the lawn much better. Not that I'm seeking to run it through rocks on a regular basis but it can certainly handle the odd mulch chip here and there with no ill effects. I recently hit a screwdriver bit like you'd use in a drill or impact driver. (New construction development, must have dug it up when I rented the bed-edger) It put a nice ding in the bedknife and one reel blade but didn't destroy the reel. I'll change the knife as it leaves a streak now, but an 11-blade reel would have been toast!


----------



## Jimefam

slammed68 said:


> Jimefam said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 526a and I cut yesterday down to the lowest it will allow me to go which was .55". If I want to go any lower do I need to just switch the brackets or do I need a new reel and bedknife? At what point is the 7 blade reel a problem and better off going with the 9 or 11? Here are some pictures of it at the lowest ive ever cut it. I also ran the sunjoe scarifier at -10 in multiple directions so it looks a bit rough but not as bad as I was expecting and i think its level enough that i can go lower. But id like some feedback. Main reason for wanting to go lower is i feel like it still needs to get much more dense.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your HOC brackets are bottomed out then you will need new brackets to cut lower.
> 
> A new reel and bedknife wont let you go any lower but they could improve the quality of cut depending on how low you go. Generally the lower you go the lower your frequency of clip (FOC) should be. Here is an article explaining FOC https://www.gcmonline.com/course/environment/news/frequency-of-clip but I generally understand it to be the distance the mower travels between two blades cutting.
> 
> If you think about the tip of a short grass blade vs a longer grass blade bending over in an arc, the shorter blade of grass has less lateral distance from it's center point that it remains above the cut height. idk how true it is but ive always thought that tall grass needs more distance between cuts to allow for the grass blade to get between two blades after being folder over.
> 
> Here is a quick sketch I made that shows the perfect (ie wont happen in the real world) scenario of .5 and 1 inch cut height where the grass is .25 taller than the cut height. You can see that the longer blade of grass has more distance from it's center point where it can still remain above the bed knife to be cut.
> 
> 
> All that being said, there are too many variables to try and calculate exactly what would be best. I would get brackets first and just drop the HOC before you worry about dropping a bunch of money and time on swapping out the reel. If you start to see wash boarding you could make multiple passes from different directions or decide to get a new reel at some point. If you decide on a new reel I would recommend a 9 blade. I have an 11 blade reel on my 522 and I notice that the cut quality starts to drop off around .75 or higher. If I had the choice between a 7, 9, or 11, I think the 9 would be right in the sweet spot.
Click to expand...




MasterMech said:


> @Jimefam
> @slammed68
> 
> The FoC for a 7-blade reel is .250" so there is no "need" to go to an 11-blade reel until the HoC gets down to that .250" or lower.
> 
> All Jimefam needs to go lower is the standard front roller brackets.
> 
> My experience with a Jake 11-blade reel and a hi-cut knife are that they cut very well in the .375-.500" range. For .750"+, 7 is the way to go. I swap to a 7 whenever possible for use on my home lawn because the reel blades are twice as thick with nearly twice the gap in-between. This allows the machine to deal with "trash" in the lawn much better. Not that I'm seeking to run it through rocks on a regular basis but it can certainly handle the odd mulch chip here and there with no ill effects. I recently hit a screwdriver bit like you'd use in a drill or impact driver. (New construction development, must have dug it up when I rented the bed-edger) It put a nice ding in the bedknife and one reel blade but didn't destroy the reel. I'll change the knife as it leaves a streak now, but an 11-blade reel would have been toast!


Actually there is a tiny bit left in the brackets but the black dial thingys wont turn down further. I assume though that i need the shorter brackets. What would be the correct part number from R&R or elsewhere for them? Also if you were going to either pay $100 to sharpen the 7 blade reel would just say fuck it and buy the 9 blade for a bit more? I definitely hit the occasional piece of mulch so that is a great point for me.


----------



## Adrian82

Hey,

Issue 1
I have a PGM22. I destroyed a bedknife a few days ago. During the destruction, the clutchkit become stuck. I took the chain cover off and the clutchkit appears in good shape. As soon as I put the chain cover on the cluthkit becomes stuck. When I attempt to engage it appears to push the chain cover to the right. Is this an installation issue?

Issue 2
The reel chain has a lot of slack. Should I make a new chain?
Pics coming soon.

I have a spare PGM22 and I prefer to swap bedknifes. I dont want to open the chain cover on the spare and have both machines out of commission.


----------



## Adrian82




----------



## MasterMech

@Jimefam

I would stay with the 7. You will not see a visible increase in the cut quality until you get down below .250".

So far, it's easier (far lower time investment) for me to replace a reel than have it ground. It's quite the cost premium however.


----------



## MasterMech

@Adrian82 if the reel clutch spool isn't stuck, then the eccentric on the lever is not engaged in the groove (on the spook) as it should be.


----------



## coolturf

If anyone needs a grass catcher, I just posted some on member marketplace.


----------



## boots4321

@Adrian82 your chain slack looks decent. I remember that clutch key being tricky when i attempted to reinstall as well. When you place your cover back on you should be able to shine a flashlight into the hole to verify your pin position prior to inserting. It does seem that the tension of the cover changes the alignment of that pin. I do remember i had to tap mine with a hammer (gently) to get it into the slot once i was confident it was close. Also, when i engage that pin while operating i have to play with the throttle a bit to line up the gears. Good luck!


----------



## PLOmaha

Adrian82 said:


> Hey,
> 
> Issue 1
> I have a PGM22. I destroyed a bedknife a few days ago. During the destruction, the clutchkit become stuck. I took the chain cover off and the clutchkit appears in good shape. As soon as I put the chain cover on the cluthkit becomes stuck. When I attempt to engage it appears to push the chain cover to the right. Is this an installation issue?
> 
> Issue 2
> The reel chain has a lot of slack. Should I make a new chain?
> Pics coming soon.
> 
> I have a spare PGM22 and I prefer to swap bedknifes. I dont want to open the chain cover on the spare and have both machines out of commission.
> 
> My clutch lever was sticky, so I banged it with a wrench to engage it, and broke off that nub. Ended up ordering a new clutch lever and installed it last week. I had to play with the clutch keys a little bit to get the clutch to slide back and forth smoothly. Also, make sure the clutch is fully engaged when you reinstall the chain cover. I lubed the clutch lever with lithium grease, which seemed to help a bit. My clutch lever is still sticky, but I now just play with it a little, rotate the reels, drive it forward a few inches, and it eventually will engage.


----------



## Jimefam

MasterMech said:


> @Jimefam
> 
> I would stay with the 7. You will not see a visible increase in the cut quality until you get down below .250".
> 
> So far, it's easier (far lower time investment) for me to replace a reel than have it ground. It's quite the cost premium however.


Ok will keep the 7 blade. Do u know if the bracket part numbers are still reversed? Thank you for your help.


----------



## bmadams

Any advice for diagnosing why the reel isn't engaging for this mower? I believe it's an Eclipse 118F. If the reel drive motor needs replaced any info on how much it cost for the parts.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## coreystooks

@bmadams It could be as simple as the reel to bedknife being too tight, that was the case with mine when I got it. You really don't want it to be the motor though, they're about $1200 new.


----------



## Kallgren

Hi Folks,

Looking for some advice. I have Jacobsen 522 greens king and the having problem with traction clutch lever (part #3000660)wear. I bought two machines for $50 each. One had a seized bearing on the engine and clutch end which I replaced along with the carb and got it running nicely. During the assembly process I had noticed what appeared to be a machined flat on the clutch lever, later figuring out this was worn due to improper use. It would take one pass across the grass, but upon turning around, the traction wouldn't drive.

After some digging, I recognized that the flat was actually wear so swapped it with a better condition one from the other mower. But this two has failed very shortly thereafter.

Is there a possibility that I assembled something incorrectly? The wear patterns show the engagement depth not very deep; but are consistent with the other mower.

I have been careful to only engage dis-engage with the engine off - only once did I make this mistake, when I first started it after reassembling it, I engaged the drive and the machine went on autopilot racing across the yard.

Could the traction clutch (part# 1000056) be worn? The part from the second motor appears ok - I haven't taken the running mower apart again, but when I put it together seemed in good shape and slid freely on the shaft.

Note the wear pattern shows only about 50% engagement.


Here is the traction clutch from the second machine, it is in comparable condition the running machine.



Anything else to check, I don't want to spend $30 for a part only to have overlooked something and have it fail again.


----------



## MasterMech

Kallgren said:


> Hi Folks,
> 
> Looking for some advice. I have Jacobsen 522 greens king and the having problem with traction clutch lever (part #3000660)wear. I bought two machines for $50 each. One had a seized bearing on the engine and clutch end which I replaced along with the carb and got it running nicely. During the assembly process I had noticed what appeared to be a machined flat on the clutch lever, later figuring out this was worn due to improper use. It would take one pass across the grass, but upon turning around, the traction wouldn't drive.
> 
> After some digging, I recognized that the flat was actually wear so swapped it with a better condition one from the other mower. But this two has failed very shortly thereafter.
> 
> Is there a possibility that I assembled something incorrectly? The wear patterns show the engagement depth not very deep; but are consistent with the other mower.
> 
> I have been careful to only engage dis-engage with the engine off - only once did I make this mistake, when I first started it after reassembling it, I engaged the drive and the machine went on autopilot racing across the yard.
> 
> Could the traction clutch (part# 1000056) be worn? The part from the second motor appears ok - I haven't taken the running mower apart again, but when I put it together seemed in good shape and slid freely on the shaft.
> 
> Note the wear pattern shows only about 50% engagement.
> 
> 
> Here is the traction clutch from the second machine, it is in comparable condition the running machine.
> 
> 
> 
> Anything else to check, I don't want to spend $30 for a part only to have overlooked something and have it fail again.


Does the lever "click" into place? There are two set screws in the belt cover, one simply holds the lever in position and limits rotation. The other provides spring pressure on a ball detent. I'm guessing the ball or spring is missing, or the spring pressure simply needs to be adjusted via the set screw.


----------



## Kallgren

@MasterMech the ball and spring are both in place, I have tried to adjust the pre-load so they click into place as best I can. I have tried to adjust the spring pressure to a balance so it clicks in place but is not so tight to prevent it from actuating.

I'm wondering if I need a second grub screw to lock it in place. I.e. vibrations allowing the spring pre-load to back off.

That the wear zone is only ~50% of the pin length has my questioning if something else is amiss.


----------



## MasterMech

Kallgren said:


> @MasterMech the ball and spring are both in place, I have tried to adjust the pre-load so they click into place as best I can. I have tried to adjust the spring pressure to a balance so it clicks in place but is not so tight to prevent it from actuating.
> 
> I'm wondering if I need a second grub screw to lock it in place. I.e. vibrations allowing the spring pre-load to back off.
> 
> That the wear zone is only ~50% of the pin length has my questioning if something else is amiss.


That looks about right based on an old lever I have laying around.


----------



## Kallgren

I ordered the full set of both traction and reel levers, new ball bearings and springs, for delivery later this week. Upon further investigation, the ball detents looked excessively worn. Probably many thousands of cycles. The worst had a groove about 1/32" deep between the engaged and disengaged position.

Just plain knackard!


----------



## Kallgren

Parts arrived and I decided to take belt cover off and check a few more parts. Turns out the traction clutch was not is as good shape as I remembered.

Here on the left is the part from the mower labeled "bad", when I got it. The part on the right was from the mower labeled "good". Look how worn it is. I never had them both out side by side before. I must have thought it was machined that way!


Parts back together and trimmed the putting green, got a long ways to go filling in.


----------



## MasterMech

Wow!


----------



## griffithgd76

MasterMech said:


> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> You need the longer front roller brackets which will raise it up to 1.25". Jake part no is 2000040
> 
> 
> 
> Are you sure it's not the 2000072 brackets?
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Depends on where you buy. :lol:
> 
> R&R has their wires crossed on this particular item. Order the xx40s from them and you'll get the short (normal) brackets. Order the xx72s and you get the long brackets.
> 
> And yes, I ordered both! -shrug-
> 
> The 63285 is the 7-blade tee/approach mower. (Just happens to be my machine too)
Click to expand...

So a little confused on which is which. Is xx72 the longer bracket from shop.txtsv?


----------



## MasterMech

griffithgd76 said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ware said:
> 
> 
> 
> Are you sure it's not the 2000072 brackets?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on where you buy. :lol:
> 
> R&R has their wires crossed on this particular item. Order the xx40s from them and you'll get the short (normal) brackets. Order the xx72s and you get the long brackets.
> 
> And yes, I ordered both! -shrug-
> 
> The 63285 is the 7-blade tee/approach mower. (Just happens to be my machine too)
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So a little confused on which is which. Is xx72 the longer bracket from shop.txtsv?
Click to expand...

Confused also now, I am! So I did another check, here's what I've got:

RRProducts.com

2000040 - Roller bracket for 11-bld reel (sub .500" HoC)
2000072 - Roller bracket in std. parts breakdown.

shop.txtsv.com

2000040 - Roller bracket, used only on 63285 (Which is a 7-blade Tee & Collar machine)
2000072 - Roller bracket (std)

Now, it's possible that just the descriptions are swapped right? But on closer inspection, R&R actually posts the CAD model image of the part. And sure enough, 2000072 is in fact the longer bracket for high HoC.

So.... If you are looking for the high HoC brackets for all recent Jacobsen ->Fixed Head<- walk-behind greensmowers:

Order 2000072 from RRProducts.com OR 2000040 from shop.txtv.com. But I HIGHLY recommend you call first to confirm you are getting the right bracket! Especially if ordering from Jacobsen as the only evidence I have of which number is which, is the text description in the illustrated parts lists.

This includes mowers from:

Greensking 4/500 series
Eclipse/Eclipse2 100 Series, non-"F" models
E-Walk series

This DOES NOT apply to mowers from:

GreensMower series
PGM Series
Eclipse/Eclipse2 100 Series, "F" models
Tournament Cut Series


----------



## Kallgren

MasterMech said:


> Hi MasterMech,
> 
> The recent posts on bracket lengths etc leaves me a question you may be able to help. I want to setup my second "bad" 522 Greens King to cut fairway length for my pitch and putt project. Are thicker bed knife AND longer brackets recommended? With eleven blade reel, it seems that the reel should be ok.
> 
> I'm thinking height of cut between 5/8 to 3/4 inch.
> 
> Seeing I have to order some parts to replace the knackered traction clutch discussed earlier, want to make only one order.
> 
> Thanks Bill


----------



## griffithgd76

MasterMech said:


> griffithgd76 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> Depends on where you buy. :lol:
> 
> R&R has their wires crossed on this particular item. Order the xx40s from them and you'll get the short (normal) brackets. Order the xx72s and you get the long brackets.
> 
> And yes, I ordered both! -shrug-
> 
> The 63285 is the 7-blade tee/approach mower. (Just happens to be my machine too)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So a little confused on which is which. Is xx72 the longer bracket from shop.txtsv?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Confused also now, I am! So I did another check, here's what I've got:
> 
> RRProducts.com
> 
> 2000040 - Roller bracket for 11-bld reel (sub .500" HoC)
> 2000072 - Roller bracket in std. parts breakdown.
> 
> shop.txtsv.com
> 
> 2000040 - Roller bracket, used only on 63285 (Which is a 7-blade Tee & Collar machine)
> 2000072 - Roller bracket (std)
> 
> Now, it's possible that just the descriptions are swapped right? But on closer inspection, R&R actually posts the CAD model image of the part. And sure enough, 2000072 is in fact the longer bracket for high HoC.
> 
> So.... If you are looking for the high HoC brackets for all recent Jacobsen ->Fixed Head<- walk-behind greensmowers:
> 
> Order 2000072 from RRProducts.com OR 2000040 from shop.txtv.com. But I HIGHLY recommend you call first to confirm you are getting the right bracket! Especially if ordering from Jacobsen as the only evidence I have of which number is which, is the text description in the illustrated parts lists.
> 
> This includes mowers from:
> 
> Greensking 4/500 series
> Eclipse/Eclipse2 100 Series, non-"F" models
> E-Walk series
> 
> This DOES NOT apply to mowers from:
> 
> GreensMower series
> PGM Series
> Eclipse/Eclipse2 100 Series, "F" models
> Tournament Cut Series
Click to expand...

I agree with that. I called them both today.

I was told from RRProducts.com, 2000072 was the longer racket and from shop.txtv.com, 2000040 was the longer bracket.

On my Greens King 522A, I'm at max HOC and it's just under 3/4, so I have the short bracket correct?


----------



## MasterMech

Kallgren said:


> Hi MasterMech,
> 
> The recent posts on bracket lengths etc leaves me a question you may be able to help. I want to setup my second "bad" 522 Greens King to cut fairway length for my pitch and putt project. Are thicker bed knife AND longer brackets recommended? With eleven blade reel, it seems that the reel should be ok.
> 
> I'm thinking height of cut between 5/8 to 3/4 inch.
> 
> Seeing I have to order some parts to replace the knackered traction clutch discussed earlier, want to make only one order.
> 
> Thanks Bill


I would recommend the R2000072 (long) brackets and the R503477 knife. 5/8"-3/4" is awful tall for fairways though.  I'd prob shoot for .500"-.563" or so.


----------



## MasterMech

griffithgd76 said:


> I agree with that. I called them both today.
> 
> I was told from RRProducts.com, 2000072 was the longer racket and from shop.txtv.com, 2000040 was the longer bracket.
> 
> On my Greens King 522A, I'm at max HOC and it's just under 3/4, so I have the short bracket correct?


How are you measuring HoC? 3/4" is not normally achievable with the short brackets. Is your front roller larger than normal? Normal front rollers on these units are 2"-2.25" but it's possible to fit a 3" roller on some units.

The short brackets should max out at about .500" and the longer brackets should be at .500" almost fully retracted.

If I remember :bd: I can snap a photo of the short brackets on a ruler.


----------



## Jimefam

Hmmm I have a 526a and i recently switched to the shorter brackets from R&R. I am at .50" and i could still go up. Maybe not another .25" but i think .60-.65" is likely.


----------



## MasterMech

@griffithgd76

Short brackets are right about 4.5" long.



The long brackets are about 5.5"


----------



## outsidefire

Soooo, I just jumped down the reel low rabbit hole. Got 4 Eclipse 122F mowers for a steal, aiming to cobble together at least one or two working traction units with spare cutting units. No questions yet, but if anyone needs random parts, I should have a couple parts machines when the dust settles. There are also 3 more machines in the same spot I got mine in a bit rougher shape if anyone is interested.


----------



## Rammy1546

@outsidefire where the heck did you get all of these? And how much did you pay if you don't mind me asking. Thanks!


----------



## outsidefire

Rammy1546 said:


> @outsidefire where the heck did you get all of these? And how much did you pay if you don't mind me asking. Thanks!


$600 for all 4 and we were able to find 3 of 4 matching grass catchers in a pile. Got them at a local golf course that had abandoned them for Toros a bunch of years ago. Apparently a new greenskeeper came to the course, heard about some early issues with these (which were some of Jacobsen's first hybrid mowers) and abandoned them.


----------



## Rammy1546

@outsidefire Wow I wish I can stumble upon some solid luck like that! Most of the courses I have been calling on lease the mowers so they don't have to deal with them long term.


----------



## MasterMech

Rammy1546 said:


> @outsidefire Wow I wish I can stumble upon some solid luck like that! Most of the courses I have been calling on lease the mowers so they don't have to deal with them long term.


It's a lot less mechanical work to turn the mower fleet over after 2-3 years before things like engines and drive systems start giving trouble. If all you have to do is focus on maintaining the cutting performance of the units, you end up saving a bunch of work and course damage from oil leaks. A hydraulic hose or cylinder failure leaves very ugly consequences for most of the season.

It takes a dedicated course mechanic or team of mechanics (depending on the size of the course) to maintain the fleet out beyond 5 years or so and not PO the super with breakdowns and leaks. :lol: Those courses often are buying equipment off the leases anyways so the newest machines in the fleet are often 2-3 years old on day 1.


----------



## Rammy1546

@MasterMech Yeah not doubt it's easier to hire one mechanic to deal with your issues around the course, or heck most of these lease companies will send their mechanics out to fix/replace those units. It's a win/win.


----------



## a_chan

I'm eyeing this Jacobsen that someone is selling but I'm unsure about parts availability for this model. Is R&R the main place everyone gets their parts for them?

I'd be willing to put the work in to restore it assuming that parts aren't too hard to come by.


----------



## griffithgd76

MasterMech said:


> griffithgd76 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I agree with that. I called them both today.
> 
> I was told from RRProducts.com, 2000072 was the longer racket and from shop.txtv.com, 2000040 was the longer bracket.
> 
> On my Greens King 522A, I'm at max HOC and it's just under 3/4, so I have the short bracket correct?
> 
> 
> 
> How are you measuring HoC? 3/4" is not normally achievable with the short brackets. Is your front roller larger than normal? Normal front rollers on these units are 2"-2.25" but it's possible to fit a 3" roller on some units.
> 
> The short brackets should max out at about .500" and the longer brackets should be at .500" almost fully retracted.
> 
> If I remember :bd: I can snap a photo of the short brackets on a ruler.
Click to expand...

Sorry for taking so long to reply. 
I'm a new to reel mowing, so I'm still learning.

My front roller is 2" in diameter.



My brackets are also 4.5".



Some how I have 11/16" cut. I have a straight edge from bottom of drive roller to bottom of front roller and I'm measuing from the top of the straight edge to where reel touches bed knife. Is this not how you measure? I know there is a tool for this.


----------



## MasterMech

@griffithgd76 those are the short brackets, absolutely jacked to the max by the looks of it. And yes, that's how you get a rough HoC measurement.

Be very gentle with the front roller like that. The cast brackets are very fragile with the roller extended fully.


----------



## griffithgd76

@MasterMech thanks for the warning. I have a back up Jake if need be. Have only been reel cutting on a "test" section while I ease the rest of the yard down with the rotary.

Bought the house last August and previous owner had this common Bermuda cut high, probably 4", it's so thin.


----------



## MasterMech

griffithgd76 said:


> @MasterMech thanks for the warning. I have a back up Jake if need be. Have only been reel cutting on a "test" section while I ease the rest of the yard down with the rotary.
> 
> Bought the house last August and previous owner had this common Bermuda cut high, probably 4", it's so thin.


If the need arises, R&R's brackets are much stronger.


----------



## griffithgd76

I've got those in my cart. was thinking about the taller ones, but have decided against them. 
Question: Know where i can get a grass catcher? i found one on ebay for $160 shipped. Probably not bad but thought i would shop around.


----------



## MasterMech

griffithgd76 said:


> I've got those in my cart. was thinking about the taller ones, but have decided against them.
> Question: Know where i can get a grass catcher? i found one on ebay for $160 shipped. Probably not bad but thought i would shop around.


Just to make sure we're talking about the same parts, R241827 and R241828 are the cast brackets that I use to replace the Jake originals when (not if) they break. If you are cutting at .500"-.625", just switching to the taller roller brackets (R2000072 x 2) will do much to prevent the cast brackets from breaking.

Regarding the baskets, I bought a new R & R basket for my 22" machine back when I converted it to a verticutter. It's a different feel mounting it on the machine quickly, and while that may not be a big deal, it's worth mentioning. I did get the hang of it after a few dumps. $136 used for one in good shape, no tears or cracks, is a fair deal. If you keep vigilant, you might be able to get one aroun $100-$120. @tblood had a machine he was parting out. Perhaps he still has the basket available?


----------



## tblood

MasterMech said:


> griffithgd76 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I've got those in my cart. was thinking about the taller ones, but have decided against them.
> Question: Know where i can get a grass catcher? i found one on ebay for $160 shipped. Probably not bad but thought i would shop around.
> 
> 
> 
> Just to make sure we're talking about the same parts, R241827 and R241828 are the cast brackets that I use to replace the Jake originals when (not if) they break. If you are cutting at .500"-.625", just switching to the taller roller brackets (R2000072 x 2) will do much to prevent the cast brackets from breaking.
> 
> Regarding the baskets, I bought a new R & R basket for my 22" machine back when I converted it to a verticutter. It's a different feel mounting it on the machine quickly, and while that may not be a big deal, it's worth mentioning. I did get the hang of it after a few dumps. $136 used for one in good shape, no tears or cracks, is a fair deal. If you keep vigilant, you might be able to get one aroun $100-$120. @tblood had a machine he was parting out. Perhaps he still has the basket available?
Click to expand...

I just sold the basket and transport wheels for $200.


----------



## sebastian_germany

Looking for decoding the year code on the lable of my Jacobsen PGM 22. It says "AHAI". Has anybody an answer for me?


----------



## Grantozer

Can anyone help me figure out how to get this one cover off my 522 greens king? The drive mechanism stopped working today... switch turns but the drive doesn't engage. I assumed I needed to open up this cover and figure out what broke. Took out all bolts but it seems this bearing seems to be holding up the cover from being removed. I can get the cover moving but the catch on the rod the bearing is around stops it from coming off. See photos below. Thank you!


----------



## wesleyjw

So I'm thinking about buying this for $300 Canadian Dollars. It's serial number is a 6228102306. I think the 622810 means that it's a Jacobsen Greens King 518A w/ GROOMER 18". (I think?) Also, i'm not sure what year it is.

Curious as to what the community thinks about it. I think it's a good deal... but I'll need to put in some work...

It apparently needs a new 'clutch cable' according to the owner.

He also took it apart and put on some new bearing, but he hasn't put it back together, but apparently all the parts will be included, so I'll need to reassemble some things.

Oh, and the engine hasn't run for 1.5 years... but I'm assuming that won't be too hard to figure out.

I'm going to go check it out on Wednesday, and I'll probably just buy the darn thing. It looks to be in pretty good shape.

Here are some photos of it.


----------



## Grantozer

Grantozer said:


> Can anyone help me figure out how to get this one cover off my 522 greens king? The drive mechanism stopped working today... switch turns but the drive doesn't engage. I assumed I needed to open up this cover and figure out what broke. Took out all bolts but it seems this bearing seems to be holding up the cover from being removed. I can get the cover moving but the catch on the rod the bearing is around stops it from coming off. See photos below. Thank you!


Figured it out: 
If you take a hammer and a flathead, place it on edge of it, and tap... this entire piece slides out. No need to grind it off.


----------



## southernbuckeye

I'd be wary of buying something someone else took apart but hasn't put back together again. For all you know guy has lost parts and doesn't even know it


----------



## aaronm

So I'm not sure if this is the reason or not. I recently purchased the same reel mower and from research I need a bigger roller bar at the front to make it cut around the 1" range I'd like. However it's a 11 blade reel and there not designed to cut at that height, what happens is it blows the blades too much causing some miss cuts. So to counter that you need a 5-6 blade reel for that height of cut
From what I'm told anyways I haven't tried my mower out yet I still have to kill and level my lawn 


csbutler said:


> I have a Jacobsen 518a that I purchased from the weeks auction. I've been using it for a few weeks now and when I mow it leaves strips of taller grass. No matter which direction or how many times i go over it. Could this be just an issue with the mower or just due to my yard still not being very flat? The strips are on the more uneven part of the yard. Not sure if you can tell much from the pictures below


----------



## aaronm

Does anyone have a front roller for the greens king 518 they would like to sell? 
Looking for a grocer front roller and one that would possibly raise my cutting height 
Also looking for a 6 blade reel as well


----------



## southernbuckeye

aaronm said:


> So I'm not sure if this is the reason or not. I recently purchased the same reel mower and from research I need a bigger roller bar at the front to make it cut around the 1" range I'd like. However it's a 11 blade reel and there not designed to cut at that height, what happens is it blows the blades too much causing some miss cuts. So to counter that you need a 5-6 blade reel for that height of cut
> From what I'm told anyways I haven't tried my mower out yet I still have to kill and level my lawn
> 
> 
> csbutler said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Jacobsen 518a that I purchased from the weeks auction. I've been using it for a few weeks now and when I mow it leaves strips of taller grass. No matter which direction or how many times i go over it. Could this be just an issue with the mower or just due to my yard still not being very flat? The strips are on the more uneven part of the yard. Not sure if you can tell much from the pictures below
Click to expand...

Depends on the brackets you have. You can get taller brackets used on eBay for less than a new roller in all likelihood. 11 blade will be out of its element at 1" probably but I've used it at 850 briefly and it was ok. I think you'll start to have FOC issues before you knock the the grass over.


----------



## SpeedNess

Looking for advice on this Jacobsen being sold locally.

From some research I believe this is a Greensking 418, mainly based on the park and clutch engage lever style, does this sound right?

Main question is, is $450 fair, seller claims it runs good and reel was sharpened recently (11 blade).

My other question is what will max HOC on something like this be. Can I replaced brackets or roller to make it go up to 1.25?

And last question, I think answer is no from reading this thread, is there a a reel available with less than 11 blades maybe 9 or 7 blades, for the 18 inch Jacobsen mowers? RR only shows 11 or higher blade reels for the 18 inch mowers.


----------



## MasterMech

@SpeedNess $450 is a lukewarm deal for a 418/early 518. They are pretty common and average units routinely sell for $150-$200 in running condition. I don't think the 7-9 blade reels are available for the 18" machines, the 7 and 9 blade is 26" only. You could get the roller brackets to get it up to 1", but without the proper bedknife, it won't cut as well as it would at lower heights.

If higher cuts are what you want/need, the 22" or especially 26" Jakes are better suited.


----------



## SpeedNess

@MasterMech , great info really appreciate it. I think I will pass on this one then. Thank you!


----------



## GadgetVictim

Grantozer said:


> Grantozer said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can anyone help me figure out how to get this one cover off my 522 greens king? The drive mechanism stopped working today... switch turns but the drive doesn't engage. I assumed I needed to open up this cover and figure out what broke. Took out all bolts but it seems this bearing seems to be holding up the cover from being removed. I can get the cover moving but the catch on the rod the bearing is around stops it from coming off. See photos below. Thank you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Figured it out:
> If you take a hammer and a flathead, place it on edge of it, and tap... this entire piece slides out. No need to grind it off.
Click to expand...

Grantozer,
Can you point to where you're referring to on hitting with flathead and hammer? Also, I'm not sure where that piece you're holding came from. Also, I noticed the reel engagement lever assembly was removed from the 522, but top drive engagement lever was still on the bracket being removed. Do you have to first remove this lever to enable bracket to slide off?

I'm very interested in this post, because I will also need to remove smiliar bracket covering on my 518a to work on belts adjustments.


----------



## GadgetVictim

I recently purchased a 518a directly from a golf course. It was sitting arround for a while, and they wanted to get rid of it, as they had just purchased new mowers.

In time, I got it running, and almost fully functional. Except, that I noticed that the engine appears to bog down when I engage the reel blades. It appears to run much more effortlessly with only the traction clutch engaged, and when I engage the reel to cut, it seem put a heavy load on the engine, and bogs it down.

Per the tech manual, I made adjustments to the clutch control assembly and respective cable. This made the unit more responsive when I physically engaged the OPC bale. However, that still did not improve the apparent tightness brought about when I engaged the reel.

The related symptoms appears very similar to what I've noted in the past when a drive belt was tensioned too tightly. So, now I need to open up the belt housing assembly and inspect and check the tensioning on the belts.

I now need to venture in areas that I've never been before, so I'm looking for some insite and advice:

QUESTIONS:
1. Do I need to first remove both the Traction Clutch (drive) lever, and Shifter Shaft (reel) lever before removing the Belt Cover?

2. Will the Belt Cover easily slide off, one the bolts are all removed, or will I need any special tools.

3. Has anyone ever followed the belt adjustment per the Tech manual (See: Attached Pic)? I curious on how to measure the deflection specs for both belts B and C? Any info or recommendations on how you accomplished would be greatly appreciated.

4. Need a recommendation on a belt deflection guage tool? I Googled arround, but can't seem to find any one tool (that don't cost more then the mower itself) that will be able to make those measurements. Thinking of just getting the low budget 10lb deflection tool selling for about $12 on Amazon, and eyeballing those specs? Any comments?

I want to get my tools and ducks lined up before I start diving into to new venture, so would be very greatful for any insite and advice you can provide.


----------



## fifthcircle

I'm new here. I acquired (free from seller) a 422 Greens King with the purchase of our new house. Killer backyard putting green. It's been neglected, but runs and cuts ok.

I ordered a new front roller today. This is what happens when you don't maintain your stuff properly. ☹🙄


I thought I could get away with a rebuild kit. Nope. The shaft is wrecked from banging on what's left of the bearing.

So, guys. PSA. Buy a grease gun, and use it. 😉


----------



## SpeedNess

@MasterMech , here is another, maybe, dumb question. So the Jake from my post here https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=301907#p301907 is down to $300 now. I'm thinking of low balling $225 and see what happens.

Now on to my question, do you know if the bedknifes are the same other then length and screw spacing between 518/522/526? Reason I ask is, if i can get this mower for around $225 Id be willing to try and get the heavy 26" bedknife cut it to 18" and drill new holes to make it work with the 13 screws (518) vs the 11 screws (526). A quick sketch up mock up shows that with careful placement only two screws might overlap. the rest can be drilled to align with the 18" knife spacing.

Caveat, I based my measurements assuming even spacing of the 1/4-20 holes over the bedknife length, not sure if this is actually how they are.

Below shows the 18" knife in blue, on top of 26" knife.


----------



## SpeedNess

aaronm said:


> Does anyone have a front roller for the greens king 518 they would like to sell?
> Looking for a grocer front roller and one that would possibly raise my cutting height
> Also looking for a 6 blade reel as well


There is no reel with less than 11 blades for the 518 and 522 models. 7 and 9 blade reels are available only for the 526's.


----------



## tblood

Where can I order parts for a gplex 3? R&R looks like they only have cutting units.


----------



## MasterMech

SpeedNess said:


> @MasterMech , here is another, maybe, dumb question. So the Jake from my post here https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=301907#p301907 is down to $300 now. I'm thinking of low balling $225 and see what happens.
> 
> Now on to my question, do you know if the bedknifes are the same other then length and screw spacing between 518/522/526? Reason I ask is, if i can get this mower for around $225 Id be willing to try and get the heavy 26" bedknife cut it to 18" and drill new holes to make it work with the 13 screws (518) vs the 11 screws (526). A quick sketch up mock up shows that with careful placement only two screws might overlap. the rest can be drilled to align with the 18" knife spacing.
> 
> Caveat, I based my measurements assuming even spacing of the 1/4-20 holes over the bedknife length, not sure if this is actually how they are.
> 
> Below shows the 18" knife in blue, on top of 26" knife.


In theory, there's a good chance that this is do-able. I would think the number of screws holding the knife to the shoe would change rather than the spacing. I have both a 26" and 22" machine, I'll check tonight if the screw spacing is the same. If they are, it's probable that the 18" machine is too. It's likely you will need to make two cuts to get the hole pattern aligned and get the knife to fit between the frame plates.

Too bad it's not as easy to "edit" a reel!


----------



## MasterMech

tblood said:


> Where can I order parts for a gplex 3? R&R looks like they only have cutting units.


Have you tried here?

https://shop.txtsv.com/vehicle/index/parts


----------



## SpeedNess

MasterMech said:


> In theory, there's a good chance that this is do-able. I would think the number of screws holding the knife to the shoe would change rather than the spacing. I have both a 26" and 22" machine, I'll check tonight if the screw spacing is the same. If they are, it's probable that the 18" machine is too. It's likely you will need to make two cuts to get the hole pattern aligned and get the knife to fit between the frame plates.
> 
> Too bad it's not as easy to "edit" a reel!


Thanks, look forward to hearing about your findings on the 26" and the 22". Based on RR the 18" and 22" knifes use 13 screws vs the 26" that use 11 screws. If that is correct than the spacing will end up being different in all the knifes, doesnt make sense to me but who know maybe there is a reason why Jacobsen has set them up that way.

Funny you mentioned the "edit" the reel. I will nor confirm or deny that hacking 7 blades of the 14 blade reel has'nt cross my mind at all :lol: :lol: :lol: . In theory the balance should not be affected by doing this as the angle between the blades should match the 7 blade if you chop every other blade off the 14 blade reel. Reel strength might be a different story :lol:

Thanks again @MasterMech


----------



## tblood

MasterMech said:


> tblood said:
> 
> 
> 
> Where can I order parts for a gplex 3? R&R looks like they only have cutting units.
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried here?
> 
> https://shop.txtsv.com/vehicle/index/parts
Click to expand...

That is where I ended up going. The prices weren't as bad as I was expecting the to be.


----------



## MasterMech

SpeedNess said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> In theory, there's a good chance that this is do-able. I would think the number of screws holding the knife to the shoe would change rather than the spacing. I have both a 26" and 22" machine, I'll check tonight if the screw spacing is the same. If they are, it's probable that the 18" machine is too. It's likely you will need to make two cuts to get the hole pattern aligned and get the knife to fit between the frame plates.
> 
> Too bad it's not as easy to "edit" a reel!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, look forward to hearing about your findings on the 26" and the 22". Based on RR the 18" and 22" knifes use 13 screws vs the 26" that use 11 screws. If that is correct than the spacing will end up being different in all the knifes, doesnt make sense to me but who know maybe there is a reason why Jacobsen has set them up that way.
> 
> Funny you mentioned the "edit" the reel. I will nor confirm or deny that hacking 7 blades of the 14 blade reel has'nt cross my mind at all :lol: :lol: :lol: . In theory the balance should not be affected by doing this as the angle between the blades should match the 7 blade if you chop every other blade off the 14 blade reel. Reel strength might be a different story :lol:
> 
> Thanks again @MasterMech
Click to expand...

This slipped my mind last night, I have a reminder set to check it tonight when I mow. Pretty sure I have 13 screws on my 26" machine. Jake parts lookup shows 11 screws on the 18", 12 on the 22", and 13 on the 26". Keep in mind that R&R's IPL covers all 3 models with one diagram.

The differences between the 7, 9, 11, and 14/15 blade reels are more than just blade count. The 7 blade has beefy, .250" thick blades and all of them have more "twist" to the blade arrangement as the blade count drops. Just dropping blades from a 14 blade reel would likely result in a weird corrugated after-cut appearance.


----------



## griffithgd76

I bought a Greens King 522A. I got it running (cleaned carb, new plug) and the reel engages just fine. The drive seemed to be stuck/hung up it would not roll easily when not engaged. But it did engage and function for about 75 feet, then nothing. When I took the belt cover off, the drive belt was broken. I started to disassemble the traction drive drum assembly, when I loosened the right side lock nut to take off the hub, I noticed the drive wheel began to turn freely. In hind sight I should have investigated the problem first, most likely I would have saved some money.

My conclusion: The lock nut was too tight. I believe the belt was ok, but the bound up drive system caused too much strain on the belt and it broke when I operated it.

Does this make sense/has anyone experienced this? Going to replace the belt and give a shot.


----------



## MasterMech

griffithgd76 said:


> I bought a Greens King 522A. I got it running (cleaned carb, new plug) and the reel engages just fine. The drive seemed to be stuck/hung up it would not roll easily when not engaged. But it did engage and function for about 75 feet, then nothing. When I took the belt cover off, the drive belt was broken. I started to disassemble the traction drive drum assembly, when I loosened the right side lock nut to take off the hub, I noticed the drive wheel began to turn freely. In hind sight I should have investigated the problem first, most likely I would have saved some money.
> 
> My conclusion: The lock nut was too tight. I believe the belt was ok, but the bound up drive system caused too much strain on the belt and it broke when I operated it.
> 
> Does this make sense/has anyone experienced this? Going to replace the belt and give a shot.


The sprag bearing inside the hubs is often siezed by rust and there is a ball bearing supporting the transport axle on the driven side that is also susceptible to rust. If it hasn't been frozen up long, you can replace the bearing and move on. If it has been that way for awhile, it'll wear a wide groove on the axle and make it impossible to have the transport wheels work correctly ever again. If you don't use them, and have no interest in preserving the axle, you can just leave the hub locknuts loose and run the machine as is. That's what I have done until I get around to replacing the axle and rebuilding the hubs on mine.


----------



## MasterMech

MasterMech said:


> SpeedNess said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> In theory, there's a good chance that this is do-able. I would think the number of screws holding the knife to the shoe would change rather than the spacing. I have both a 26" and 22" machine, I'll check tonight if the screw spacing is the same. If they are, it's probable that the 18" machine is too. It's likely you will need to make two cuts to get the hole pattern aligned and get the knife to fit between the frame plates.
> 
> Too bad it's not as easy to "edit" a reel!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, look forward to hearing about your findings on the 26" and the 22". Based on RR the 18" and 22" knifes use 13 screws vs the 26" that use 11 screws. If that is correct than the spacing will end up being different in all the knifes, doesnt make sense to me but who know maybe there is a reason why Jacobsen has set them up that way.
> 
> Funny you mentioned the "edit" the reel. I will nor confirm or deny that hacking 7 blades of the 14 blade reel has'nt cross my mind at all :lol: :lol: :lol: . In theory the balance should not be affected by doing this as the angle between the blades should match the 7 blade if you chop every other blade off the 14 blade reel. Reel strength might be a different story :lol:
> 
> Thanks again @MasterMech
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This slipped my mind last night, I have a reminder set to check it tonight when I mow. Pretty sure I have 13 screws on my 26" machine. Jake parts lookup shows 11 screws on the 18", 12 on the 22", and 13 on the 26". Keep in mind that R&R's IPL covers all 3 models with one diagram.
> 
> The differences between the 7, 9, 11, and 14/15 blade reels are more than just blade count. The 7 blade has beefy, .250" thick blades and all of them have more "twist" to the blade arrangement as the blade count drops. Just dropping blades from a 14 blade reel would likely result in a weird corrugated after-cut appearance.
Click to expand...

@SpeedNess

Well, so much for them keeping the screw spacing equal. My 22" machine has 13 screws, spaced about 1-9/16" apart. The 26" machine has 13 screws spaces about 2-1/2" apart.

But Jake's part breakdown clearly shows 11 screws on the 18" machine. Well, wait a sec, all of the older model series (no InCommand controls) show 11 screws, the newer ones all show 13........ (facepalm).

Anybody have an 18" Jake that could measure/count for us?


----------



## SpeedNess

MasterMech said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SpeedNess said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, look forward to hearing about your findings on the 26" and the 22". Based on RR the 18" and 22" knifes use 13 screws vs the 26" that use 11 screws. If that is correct than the spacing will end up being different in all the knifes, doesnt make sense to me but who know maybe there is a reason why Jacobsen has set them up that way.
> 
> Funny you mentioned the "edit" the reel. I will nor confirm or deny that hacking 7 blades of the 14 blade reel has'nt cross my mind at all :lol: :lol: :lol: . In theory the balance should not be affected by doing this as the angle between the blades should match the 7 blade if you chop every other blade off the 14 blade reel. Reel strength might be a different story :lol:
> 
> Thanks again @MasterMech
> 
> 
> 
> This slipped my mind last night, I have a reminder set to check it tonight when I mow. Pretty sure I have 13 screws on my 26" machine. Jake parts lookup shows 11 screws on the 18", 12 on the 22", and 13 on the 26". Keep in mind that R&R's IPL covers all 3 models with one diagram.
> 
> The differences between the 7, 9, 11, and 14/15 blade reels are more than just blade count. The 7 blade has beefy, .250" thick blades and all of them have more "twist" to the blade arrangement as the blade count drops. Just dropping blades from a 14 blade reel would likely result in a weird corrugated after-cut appearance.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @SpeedNess
> 
> Well, so much for them keeping the screw spacing equal. My 22" machine has 13 screws, spaced about 1-9/16" apart. The 26" machine has 13 screws spaces about 2-1/2" apart.
> 
> But Jake's part breakdown clearly shows 11 screws on the 18" machine. Well, wait a sec, all of the older model series (no InCommand controls) show 11 screws, the newer ones all show 13........ (facepalm).
> 
> Anybody have an 18" Jake that could measure/count for us?
Click to expand...

Lol, what mess with the spacing on the Jake's, why wouldn't they keep it equal.

Now on to the news, I feel bad for putting you through all this trouble, I ended up picking up a GM1000 tonight for $400. Figured it will be better suited for my small lawn and higher cut heights that I'm looking for since I can get up to 1" and can also get and 8 blade reel.

Hopefully this blade screw spacing information is still helpful for anyone one else researching Jake's in the future. Thanks again @MasterMech


----------



## aaronm

SpeedNess said:


> aaronm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a front roller for the greens king 518 they would like to sell?
> Looking for a grocer front roller and one that would possibly raise my cutting height
> Also looking for a 6 blade reel as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no reel with less than 11 blades for the 518 and 522 models. 7 and 9 blade reels are available only for the 526's.
Click to expand...

Ok so looks like I'm just stuck with cutting under 1" than, no point replacing brackets if the blades can't handle over 1"
I'd really like to get my hands on more of a aggressive front roller still. I think that flat one will give me troubles? What are your thoughts on that?


----------



## MasterMech

aaronm said:


> SpeedNess said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> aaronm said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a front roller for the greens king 518 they would like to sell?
> Looking for a grocer front roller and one that would possibly raise my cutting height
> Also looking for a 6 blade reel as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no reel with less than 11 blades for the 518 and 522 models. 7 and 9 blade reels are available only for the 526's.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok so looks like I'm just stuck with cutting under 1" than, no point replacing brackets if the blades can't handle over 1"
> I'd really like to get my hands on more of a aggressive front roller still. I think that flat one will give me troubles? What are your thoughts on that?
Click to expand...

With the short brackets up front, you'll be stuck mowing at around .500" or lower. Which is where the 11-blade reel and bedknife combo's are happy anyways. You could still swap to the tall brackets and get it up to about 1.25", but I think you'd be pretty frustrated with the cutting issues that high. Even if you settle on 3/4" you'd still need the tall brackets.

Regarding front rollers, I'd go with the heaviest, grooved or segmented roller you can find.


----------



## aaronm

MasterMech said:


> aaronm said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SpeedNess said:
> 
> 
> 
> There is no reel with less than 11 blades for the 518 and 522 models. 7 and 9 blade reels are available only for the 526's.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok so looks like I'm just stuck with cutting under 1" than, no point replacing brackets if the blades can't handle over 1"
> I'd really like to get my hands on more of a aggressive front roller still. I think that flat one will give me troubles? What are your thoughts on that?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> With the short brackets up front, you'll be stuck mowing at around .500" or lower. Which is where the 11-blade reel and bedknife combo's are happy anyways. You could still swap to the tall brackets and get it up to about 1.25", but I think you'd be pretty frustrated with the cutting issues that high. Even if you settle on 3/4" you'd still need the tall brackets.
> 
> Regarding front rollers, I'd go with the heaviest, grooved or segmented roller you can find.
Click to expand...

Ok I have lots of time still but I will start there with the grooves roller and try cutting that 3/4"
I don't feel too bad I jumped right into it before really researching but I got it for $300, might just have to invest in something else in the future


----------



## blaw

Just picked up a 518a yesterday and noticed I'm missing a lever compared to pic another user posted before. 
Looking at the tech manual, it appears to be the OPC lock from the image, but there's no description on what it does. Seems I also don't have the E-Stop switch, so I'm guessing this is an older model.

Missing this lever:


Mine looks like this:


----------



## tblood

blaw said:


> Just picked up a 518a yesterday and noticed I'm missing a lever compared to pic another user posted before.
> Looking at the tech manual, it appears to be the OPC lock from the image, but there's no description on what it does. Seems I also don't have the E-Stop switch, so I'm guessing this is an older model.
> 
> Missing this lever:
> 
> 
> Mine looks like this:


I might have that lever. Let me check when I get home from work.


----------



## tblood

Does anyone have, or know where I can get a verticut conversion kit to use GKIV units on a GPlex 3? I called Jacobsen, and they don't have the part any more. The original part number was 4154183, it was replaced with 4232943.


----------



## southernbuckeye

tblood said:


> Does anyone have, or know where I can get a verticut conversion kit to use GKIV units on a GPlex 3? I called Jacobsen, and they don't have the part any more. The original part number was 4154183, it was replaced with 4232943.


What style attach do you have?


----------



## tblood

blaw said:


> Just picked up a 518a yesterday and noticed I'm missing a lever compared to pic another user posted before.
> Looking at the tech manual, it appears to be the OPC lock from the image, but there's no description on what it does. Seems I also don't have the E-Stop switch, so I'm guessing this is an older model.
> 
> Missing this lever:
> 
> 
> Mine looks like this:


I have this.


----------



## tblood

southernbuckeye said:


> tblood said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have, or know where I can get a verticut conversion kit to use GKIV units on a GPlex 3? I called Jacobsen, and they don't have the part any more. The original part number was 4154183, it was replaced with 4232943.
> 
> 
> 
> What style attach do you have?
Click to expand...

I need the parts that will let my reel motors attach to the cutting units. The thinner ones are for the gplex, the thicker black ones are for the GK.


----------



## tblood

The bolts on the GK units are too thick to allow the adapter plate on.


----------



## blaw

tblood said:


> blaw said:
> 
> 
> 
> Just picked up a 518a yesterday and noticed I'm missing a lever compared to pic another user posted before.
> Looking at the tech manual, it appears to be the OPC lock from the image, but there's no description on what it does. Seems I also don't have the E-Stop switch, so I'm guessing this is an older model.
> 
> Missing this lever:
> 
> 
> Mine looks like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have this.
Click to expand...

Thanks @tblood! Any idea on what it does? Manual says Operator Presence Control lock. Does it lock the bail to prevent use?


----------



## GadgetVictim

@blaw, yes it's designed to prevent you from inadvertantly engaging the bale to the point where the clutch is released and drive is engaged (symantecs). In other word, you would need to move that lever from it's default detent position to engage the mower's drive and/or reel.

When you release the bale, the spring pulls that lever back into it's detent slot to locks the bale and clutch in the default "drive disengaged position".

Hope that helps.


----------



## southernbuckeye

tblood said:


> southernbuckeye said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tblood said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have, or know where I can get a verticut conversion kit to use GKIV units on a GPlex 3? I called Jacobsen, and they don't have the part any more. The original part number was 4154183, it was replaced with 4232943.
> 
> 
> 
> What style attach do you have?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I need the parts that will let my reel motors attach to the cutting units. The thinner ones are for the gplex, the thicker black ones are for the GK.
Click to expand...

Not sure by your description but by looking at the pics I'm assuming your verticuts are the top pic with the longer bolts. Looks a lot like a Flash Attach but fully threaded instead of using pins. For reference, I've pasted a pic of a Flash Attach unit I have below (I have a GK VI). I checked RR for the both the Jake part numbers you reference, no dice. A quick google turned up a hit on directparts.com (never heard of them), but whooowheee that's pricey for a conversion kit! Almost looks like a total drive replacement! The weird thing is that the Jake accessory PDF lists 4154183 as for converting GK VI (not IV). I have a GK VI and it uses Flash Attach. Anywho, all that matters is getting it to fit. I don't have either drive in your pic, but I'd bet those are just studs threaded in (or bolts coming in from the reel side). Is the distance between the bolts the same? And what size and pitch are both bolts?



Edit: Saw your other reply that the bolts on the GK unit are too thick to direct fit. But if the distance between the centers is identical it bodes well for rigging up something yourself. Hell, just put the entire end plate from a g-plex on your v-cuts. All jake 5" reel units are essentially the same so it should bolt up.


----------



## blaw

thanks @GadgetVictim ! That does clarify things. Seems the mower I picked up has been rigged to bypass that, but I'm not surprised if it was being used by pros. Might replace it one day when the kiddos are old enough to mow.


----------



## GadgetVictim

blaw said:


> thanks @GadgetVictim ! That does clarify things. Seems the mower I picked up has been rigged to bypass that, but I'm not surprised if it was being used by pros. Might replace it one day when the kiddos are old enough to mow.


Yes, there's both an advantage and danger to what you have:

A lot of the pros (greens keepers) either remove or disable this latch or the bale. Reason is by doing so they're able to quickly swing the mower around in the U-turn to cut the green in the opposite direction. This manuver usually involves switching the mower from one hand to the other during the process. In doing this, they use the bale to either slow down or stop the mower during the turn, then accelerating the mower by just putting more grab on the bale. All this without touching the accelerator.

With the latch or any default safety stopping mechanism in place, the user would the be required to use both hands to accomplish the turn. One to engage the latch, and the other to engage the bale.

You can more safely do the above on the golf course, then at home.

I also have a Toro Flex21 with the bale disabled. This mower weighs 260 lbs vice 220 lbs compared to my 518a. I've been in situations where I've had to physically hold back a moving Toro with one hand, while knocking the accelerator lever with the other. Not a fun situation to be in when your mower heading for wife's garden, or neighbor's fense.


----------



## tblood

southernbuckeye said:


> tblood said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> southernbuckeye said:
> 
> 
> 
> What style attach do you have?
> 
> 
> 
> I need the parts that will let my reel motors attach to the cutting units. The thinner ones are for the gplex, the thicker black ones are for the GK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure by your description but by looking at the pics I'm assuming your verticuts are the top pic with the longer bolts. Looks a lot like a Flash Attach but fully threaded instead of using pins. For reference, I've pasted a pic of a Flash Attach unit I have below (I have a GK VI). I checked RR for the both the Jake part numbers you reference, no dice. A quick google turned up a hit on directparts.com (never heard of them), but whooowheee that's pricey for a conversion kit! Almost looks like a total drive replacement! The weird thing is that the Jake accessory PDF lists 4154183 as for converting GK VI (not IV). I have a GK VI and it uses Flash Attach. Anywho, all that matters is getting it to fit. I don't have either drive in your pic, but I'd bet those are just studs threaded in (or bolts coming in from the reel side). Is the distance between the bolts the same? And what size and pitch are both bolts?
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Saw your other reply that the bolts on the GK unit are too thick to direct fit. But if the distance between the centers is identical it bodes well for rigging up something yourself. Hell, just put the entire end plate from a g-plex on your v-cuts. All jake 5" reel units are essentially the same so it should bolt up.
Click to expand...

The top one is the Gplex reel. They are just bolts coming in from the back side. I'd have to pull the bearing housing off and try to put smaller diameter bolts in there. Pulling the housing off wouldn't be a big deal. Putting the housings back on would be the challenge.


----------



## blaw

Definitely makes sense for a pro that uses it daily. I appreciate the detailed explanation. But of course, once I get the hang of this bad boy I'll be practicing that U Turn move


----------



## DesertLawn

I have a greens king 522 with a groomer but I'm thinking I'd like a little more wiggle room with regards to hoc. What parts would I need if I wanted to remove the groomer and go to the regular set up?


----------



## MasterMech

DesertLawn said:


> I have a greens king 522 with a groomer but I'm thinking I'd like a little more wiggle room with regards to hoc. What parts would I need if I wanted to remove the groomer and go to the regular set up?


Grass basket/roller mounts. $110
Reel shaft cover, (for the right side) $20
High HoC roller brackets $50
Then choose the front roller you want. $130-$200 (Groomer roller is specific to the groomer)

You could pick up a salvage mower for less than what all that would cost.


----------



## DesertLawn

MasterMech said:


> DesertLawn said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have a greens king 522 with a groomer but I'm thinking I'd like a little more wiggle room with regards to hoc. What parts would I need if I wanted to remove the groomer and go to the regular set up?
> 
> 
> 
> Grass basket/roller mounts. $110
> Reel shaft cover, (for the right side) $20
> High HoC roller brackets $50
> Then choose the front roller you want. $130-$200 (Groomer roller is specific to the groomer)
> 
> You could pick up a salvage mower for less than what all that would cost.
Click to expand...

Thank you! I rarely see greens mowers pop up near me but I'll keep an eye out.


----------



## coolturf

Hey Guys, I am helping a buddy with his vintage Jacobsen PGM22 ('70's?).

I have owned a few (none now), so I said I'd try to help.
He was trying to remove the clutch to put a new engine on it and the clutch housing cracked.

Does anyone know what you call that style of clutch?
I know I've seen them on other equipment of that era. They use to be pretty common.
But without knowing what to search for we are at a loss.

I'll add a photo of one of my old mowers so you can see what we're talking about.

Also if you know of alternative to the OEM style clutch, that would be helpful too.

Thanks!


----------



## MasterMech

coolturf said:


> Hey Guys, I am helping a buddy with his vintage Jacobsen PGM22 ('70's?).
> 
> I have owned a few (none now), so I said I'd try to help.
> He was trying to remove the clutch to put a new engine on it and the clutch housing cracked.
> 
> Does anyone know what you call that style of clutch?
> I know I've seen them on other equipment of that era. They use to be pretty common.
> But without knowing what to search for we are at a loss.
> 
> I'll add a photo of one of my old mowers so you can see what we're talking about.
> 
> Also if you know of alternative to the OEM style clutch, that would be helpful too.
> 
> Thanks!


Looks like the Clutch Body (132898) is still available from Jacobsen for about $200. Of course, parts mowers are less than that, sometimes by far. Might even get a good engine on one.


----------



## anthonybilotta

Hey everyone,

Has anyone ever added/know if it is possible to add a groomer to a pgm22? I believe mine is a model year 2000


----------



## MasterMech

anthonybilotta said:


> Hey everyone,
> 
> Has anyone ever added/know if it is possible to add a groomer to a pgm22? I believe mine is a model year 2000


It is possible. You have to locate one first, I don't know if the GreensKing 522 groomer is the same or not, I imagine it's similar but not identical. To purchase one new for a GreensKing is $2k.


----------



## anthonybilotta

@MasterMech Thanks!


----------



## MasterMech

anthonybilotta said:


> @MasterMech Thanks!


http://www.jacobsen.com/assets/genuine-parts/pdfs/groomersbrochure.pdf

Jacobsen's groomer info.


----------



## sangheili

New pickup last week


----------



## DFW_Zoysia

sangheili said:


> New pickup last week


Looks great! How old are those?


----------



## sangheili

DFW_Zoysia said:


> Looks great! How old are those?


One has 260hrs the other 330hrs. Both have groomers, grass catchers, and 15 blade reels. Got a 7 blade reel/bed knife coming this week. Going to keep one at 0.9" HoC with the groomer and the other at 1.25" with 7 blade and no groomer. They need new batteries also, got some coming. Just standard 12v sealed cells. I might go lower next year w/ some PGR, we will see. Last piece of the puzzle is a triplex but they are like unicorns to find right now :?


----------



## Kallgren

Nice looking machines, virtually new. That's a lot of blades, can't let the grass get too long between trims I would suppose.


----------



## sangheili

Kallgren said:


> Nice looking machines, virtually new. That's a lot of blades, can't let the grass get too long between trims I would suppose.


7 blade has been installed on one of them and some brackets to raise the rear roller. Currently sitting at 1.25" and it works! Takes a couple passes since the grass seems to lay down alot from the rollers at that length. Cutting paper perfectly after backlapping but it still misses some blades of grass. I considered using the groomer to help this but was told it would make things worse at this height.

It runs awesome. Still getting used to the turning


----------



## MasterMech

sangheili said:


> Kallgren said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice looking machines, virtually new. That's a lot of blades, can't let the grass get too long between trims I would suppose.
> 
> 
> 
> 7 blade has been installed on one of them and some brackets to raise the rear roller. Currently sitting at 1.25" and it works! Takes a couple passes since the grass seems to lay down alot from the rollers at that length. Cutting paper perfectly after backlapping but it still misses some blades of grass. I considered using the groomer to help this but was told it would make things worse at this height.
> 
> It runs awesome. Still getting used to the turning
Click to expand...

What bedknife are you running with the 7-blade?

There's a lot you could do with bedknife selection and attitude to get it cutting at it's best.


----------



## sangheili

MasterMech said:


> What bedknife are you running with the 7-blade?
> 
> There's a lot you could do with bedknife selection and attitude to get it cutting at it's best.


The thick/high profile one for taller cuts. Bought both the reel/knife from R&R. I have some brackets on the rear roller to raise it 1/2", that's how I'm able to get to 1.25" HoC.


----------



## claytonrex

Hey all, hoping someone can help here.

I've got a Greens King 522a, I noticed a nasty noise from the clutch and loss of power/slipping. I thought maybe it was the plates wearing down (which they did) but it was too extreme for that. I start looking closer and see that the bearing on the clutch collar is damaged and is pretty much locked up. So I went on RR and bought new plates, a new bearing and some belts to have on hand and went full steam ahead removing the shaft (which is a pain).

So I have the clutch collate and bearing off the shaft but I can't figure out how to remove the bearing from the Clutch Collar. I'll add a picture of the diagram for reference, I assume I might need a tool to pull it off but don't even know where to begin looking.


----------



## Vtx531

Something like this should work: https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-and-puller-set-62593.html


----------



## MasterMech

@claytonrex head down to your nearest auto parts store. Many have a free loaner tool program where they will loan you a specialty tool for free.

You're after a bearing splitter set like what's mentioned above.


----------



## mribbens

I am looking at the following Jacobsen 518 Reel mower on Ebay, @MasterMech any thoughts on this model? It has a 5.5hp Honda
https://www.ebay.com/itm/333723807665


----------



## claytonrex

@MasterMech thanks, I could have gone that route, ended up grabbing a 3 pack of claw bearing pullers from HF, took a bit but worked. Now I just have to put this mess back together


----------



## kay7711226

Seller is willing to take $200 today if I make an offer. Said it runs, will ask to do a video chat have them strat it and see if it cuts at all. Any thoughts?
Tagging @MasterMech seems you are the guru on these mowers, appreciate any inputs.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/332807514636905/


----------



## MasterMech

kay7711226 said:


> Seller is willing to take $200 today if I make an offer. Said it runs, will ask to do a video chat have them strat it and see if it cuts at all. Any thoughts?
> Tagging @MasterMech seems you are the guru on these mowers, appreciate any inputs.
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/332807514636905/


That's an older unit, which is fine, but it's missing a few cosmetic parts. Covers and what not. Looks like the parking brake system has been removed too. None of that interferes with its ability to run and cut however. $200 is fair as long as it comes with those transport wheels and grass catcher.


----------



## Kallgren

Not sure how to tag the poster on TG6 at $200. I have TG1 and TG5 apparently from the same course near Stoughton MA. Same stickers and remnants of duct tape - you can find them earlier in this post.

Both had seized bearings and grossly worn parts, also in this post. I paid $50 each.

The seller didn't have the grass catcher which can be quite spendy. Belts were all in decent condition. Just seized bearings and worn out drive and cutter engagement levers, poorly adjusted clutch. Oh and I replaced the carbs which are super cheap.


----------



## kay7711226

Kallgren said:


> Not sure how to tag the poster on TG6 at $200. I have TG1 and TG5 apparently from the same course near Stoughton MA. Same stickers and remnants of duct tape - you can find them earlier in this post.
> 
> Both had seized bearings and grossly worn parts, also in this post. I paid $50 each.
> 
> The seller didn't have the grass catcher which can be quite spendy. Belts were all in decent condition. Just seized bearings and worn out drive and cutter engagement levers, poorly adjusted clutch. Oh and I replaced the carbs which are super cheap.


@Kallgren sent you a PM.


----------



## sangheili

Still struggling to get the 122F cutting without a lot of stragglers. Dropping to 0.9 (from 1.2") and swapping to a 3" wider grooved front roller (below) has helped a little I think? I don't know if its because my PRG stand is still young and maybe lays over easier or what but it still misses a fair amount. I wish I could find a way to increase the frequency of clip above 0.25". Next season I'll be cutting closer to 3/4" so that should help a lot I hope.

Used 3" roller from ebay installed with groomer roller for comparison:


----------



## jim7white

You probably know this already, but just in case, I had FOC backwards when I first started playing around with the FOC settings on my 122. I originally thought that a higher FOC number meant that I'd get a higher reel RPM. However, as I understand it now, the FOC is the distance traveled between the times the reel blade contacts the bedknife. The shorter the distance, the faster the reel RPM.


----------



## sangheili

Yeah, I have it cranked to 0.25", but thats still 1/4 of my height of cut and ideally they should match from what I've been reading.


----------



## jim7white

I lowered my FOC significantly just to get more RPMs on my 11 blade reel so that it wouldn't bog down if I was cutting a lot of grass. You can try it to try it to see if that solves your problem, it certainly helped with mine. If it doesn't work, just revert it back. Also, there is a setting in the control panel for number of blades, make sure they match your reel (you probably saw that already but just in case).


----------



## MasterMech

sangheili said:


> Yeah, I have it cranked to 0.25", but thats still 1/4 of my height of cut and ideally they should match from what I've been reading.


With greensmowers, that's really only feasible up to about .250". The biggest reason for matching HoC and FoC is to avoid "bruising" the tips of the grass blade. The lower edge of the reel's circumference is slightly lower than the HoC. The grass can stand back up into reach of the reel, but not enough for the reel to gather and cut it clean. So a rapidly spinning reel that's travelling too slow can swat the grass blades several times after its been cut, bruising the tips. At greens heights - the canopy is stiff and this bruising is fairly evident. At lawn heights, or even fairway heights, this isn't so much of a problem as the grass leaves are much more flexible.

What bedknife (part #?) is on your 122F?


----------



## sangheili

MasterMech said:


> What bedknife (part #?) is on your 122F?


From R&R: R503477	Bedknife - Thick .156-.438 HOC


----------



## gr0d

Anyone have an idea of how accessible parts would be on a older Jacobsen with serial 62239 3589? I have an option to pick up two of these and want to know how easy parts re to get.

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## sangheili

gr0d said:


> Anyone have an idea of how accessible parts would be on a older Jacobsen with serial 62239 3589? I have an option to pick up two of these and want to know how easy parts re to get.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


First bet would be to check R&R Products for the model.


----------



## MasterMech

gr0d said:


> Anyone have an idea of how accessible parts would be on a older Jacobsen with serial 62239 3589? I have an option to pick up two of these and want to know how easy parts re to get.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


R&R can be a little punchy when looking for older models. My first stop when looking into parts availability would be Jacobsen's own parts lookup. Punch your model number in there.

https://shop.txtsv.com/vehicle/index/parts#

Then jot down the part #'s your interested in and punch them into R & R's site and see what you get.

https://rrproducts.com

As long as the parts are still available, I've had few problems getting Jake parts from either R & R or Jacobsen. If you're looking for a brick and mortar dealership, that can be a little more challenging than Deere or Toro, but as long as you're fine with mail-order sourcing, Jakes are probably a tad easier than the previously mentioned duo.

Looks like your machine may have more in common with a Jake PGM greensmower rather than the GreensKing series. The reel is available, as are the bedknives. Last time I looked, clutch parts are too but they are spendy. If the price is right, you shouldn't have too much trouble maintaining and running one of these.


----------



## gr0d

MasterMech said:


> gr0d said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone have an idea of how accessible parts would be on a older Jacobsen with serial 62239 3589? I have an option to pick up two of these and want to know how easy parts re to get.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! Thanks so much for the info. Big time appreciated!
> 
> R&R can be a little punchy when looking for older models. My first stop when looking into parts availability would be Jacobsen's own parts lookup. Punch your model number in there.
> 
> https://shop.txtsv.com/vehicle/index/parts#
> 
> Then jot down the part #'s your interested in and punch them into R & R's site and see what you get.
> 
> https://rrproducts.com
> 
> As long as the parts are still available, I've had few problems getting Jake parts from either R & R or Jacobsen. If you're looking for a brick and mortar dealership, that can be a little more challenging than Deere or Toro, but as long as you're fine with mail-order sourcing, Jakes are probably a tad easier than the previously mentioned duo.
> 
> Looks like your machine may have more in common with a Jake PGM greensmower rather than the GreensKing series. The reel is available, as are the bedknives. Last time I looked, clutch parts are too but they are spendy. If the price is right, you shouldn't have too much trouble maintaining and running one of these.
Click to expand...


----------



## coreystooks

Thought it's pretty cool that Augusta National is using Jacobsen for their greens when they use Toro for everything else. Must say something for Jake.


----------



## Kallgren

coreystooks said:


> Thought it's pretty cool that Augusta National is using Jacobsen for their greens when they use Toro for everything else. Must say something for Jake.


Well I have to say, I am really looking forward to the tournament this week. A lot of history, a lot of great players, plus it is November and some rain predicted....Go Cat Go!


----------



## MasterMech

coreystooks said:


> Thought it's pretty cool that Augusta National is using Jacobsen for their greens when they use Toro for everything else. Must say something for Jake.


The Jakes have always been excellent when comparing cut-quality. Toro's machines are usually a little more configurable and operator friendly but when it gets right down to putting surface quality, the Jakes have always been the best of the best. That's not a prime concern for those of us mowing home lawns, but many of the Jake walk-mowers are great for home lawns compared to Toro or Deere. The centrifugal clutch is a real advantage and parts cost/availability is excellent for mainstream models manufactured in the last 20-25 years.


----------



## Johnl445

This grass shield on my mower, what is it for?


----------



## MasterMech

Johnl445 said:


> This grass shield on my mower, what is it for?


Bruh  Haven't done any cutting with it yet have you? :lol:

The shield just ensures the clippings get thrown forward into the catcher (if mounted) or out in front of the mower.


----------



## Johnl445

@MasterMech hey pal, I Finally pulled the trigger with prairie turf and they just shipped me the 526A we were talking about last month.


----------



## anthonybilotta

Anyone ever install a groomer on one of these? I found a few groomers for sale for the pgm22 but was curious if these things were a PITA to install


----------



## MasterMech

Johnl445 said:


> @MasterMech hey pal, I Finally pulled the trigger with prairie turf and they just shipped me the 526A we were talking about last month.


Awesome! They really do handle well compared to some other designs and nothing cuts like a Jake!


----------



## MasterMech

anthonybilotta said:


> Anyone ever install a groomer on one of these? I found a few groomers for sale for the pgm22 but was curious if these things were a PITA to install


I'd love to find out. But I need a 26" groomer and they are unicorns compared to any other configuration.


----------



## Johnl445

I just got a 2014 526a, I throttle up, squeeze the bail and it takes off as normal, but my problem is, when I release the bail, It throttles down slightly, but it continues to pull me forward and then I have to Lower the throttle completely and within four or 5 feet it'll finally come to a stop. Does that sound like the bail cable linkage needs to be adjusted?


----------



## MasterMech

Johnl445 said:


> I just got a 2014 526a, I throttle up, squeeze the bail and it takes off as normal, but my problem is, when I release the bail, It throttles down slightly, but it continues to pull me forward and then I have to Lower the throttle completely and within four or 5 feet it'll finally come to a stop. Does that sound like the bail cable linkage needs to be adjusted?


You can try backing the idle speed adjustment screw off a bit, maybe a 1/2 - 1 turn and see if that makes a difference. If not, then your trouble is in the linkage or cables.

It is normal for the powertrain inertia to carry the machine a bit. To test how much of your roll-out is due to this inertia, just attempt to start/stop the machine with the reel disengaged.


----------



## M311att

I have an eclipse 122f that drives slow. I have noticed that when I resist it's forward motion by holding back on the handle bars it speeds up. I've calibrated the thumb levers, maxed out the speed and even reset to factory default. Could it be as simple as a stretched drive belt?


----------



## Watkins

Hi guys, hope you are all well. New member and looks like I have a fair amount of reading to do. Picked up this jacobsen. Not sure on the model and needs some work.

If anyone happens to be able to identify it and help me out with a manual ut'd be greatly appreciated. Parking break needs total adjustment. Reel to bedknife and a small fuel leak by the looks of things.

Hopefully get myself in a mechanical position to be able to completely strip and refurb the paint etc down the line but for now its just about getting the cut right.


----------



## MasterMech

Watkins said:


> Hi guys, hope you are all well. New member and looks like I have a fair amount of reading to do. Picked up this jacobsen. Not sure on the model and needs some work.
> 
> If anyone happens to be able to identify it and help me out with a manual ut'd be greatly appreciated. Parking break needs total adjustment. Reel to bedknife and a small fuel leak by the looks of things.
> 
> Hopefully get myself in a mechanical position to be able to completely strip and refurb the paint etc down the line but for now its just about getting the cut right.


On the back of your machine should be a model plate that has all the info you need to find the correct service manual from Jacobsen. They are available online for free. Worst case, most of the GK4/5xx machines are so similar that any version of the manual is helpful. Biggest change over the years has been the main clutch design and the handlebar/controls.

Manuals available here:

https://www.jacobsen.com/gk500

I've torn into my Jakes (I have two) a fair bit, teardown and reel replacement is covered here:

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=2471


----------



## Johnl445

My property is elevated by A retaining wall, the shortest part is 3 feet off the ground, so I use wooden planks to drive my machine on the lawn. these two back pointed pieces that attach to the kickstand, they dig into the grass as I ride the lawnmower off the ramps. can I cut the points To avoid damaging the lawn. I can't tell if these any structural value


----------



## gutowscr471

Picked up a Eclipse 2 122F today. I've looked through this thead and have not been able to find max HOC for this specific unit model and/or if roller extenders are possible to increase HOC to .75" if it can't go that high by default. Any thoughts and thanks in advance. I did find these on the RR site, would like double confirmation before ordering that they will fit this mower:
https://www.rrproducts.com/Bracket-~-Front-LH~~RH-Extended-product48959


----------



## MasterMech

Johnl445 said:


> My property is elevated by A retaining wall, the shortest part is 3 feet off the ground, so I use wooden planks to drive my machine on the lawn. these two back pointed pieces that attach to the kickstand, they dig into the grass as I ride the lawnmower off the ramps. can I cut the points To avoid damaging the lawn. I can't tell if these any structural value


Those are your kick-stand rests. They stop the kickstand in the proper position as you can see in your photo and also stop the mower from tipping over backwards when you raise it up (and tilt it back) on the stand for service.

You could cut/grind the just the pointed ends off but personally I'd look into longer ramps first. I use those stops all the time with my machines.


----------



## Johnl445

@MasterMech that makes sense, ok, thanks pal


----------



## Ajayk

Hi all, I am still going through this thread, lot of information. I am new to reel mowing and have got Eclipse 2 118F in recent auction. However it is a 15 reel. Will I be able to cut .75 or 1 inch with this mower if I add tall front brackets. Also, if someone has installed those, please share the part number at R&R.

Thanks!


----------



## gutowscr471

sangheili said:


> Kallgren said:
> 
> 
> 
> Nice looking machines, virtually new. That's a lot of blades, can't let the grass get too long between trims I would suppose.
> 
> 
> 
> 7 blade has been installed on one of them and some brackets to raise the rear roller. Currently sitting at 1.25" and it works! Takes a couple passes since the grass seems to lay down alot from the rollers at that length. Cutting paper perfectly after backlapping but it still misses some blades of grass. I considered using the groomer to help this but was told it would make things worse at this height.
> 
> It runs awesome. Still getting used to the turning
Click to expand...

@sangheili
I just bought a Eclipse 2 122F (gas version of yours). I'm interested in your rear roller brackets as there are no high HOC extenders for these mowers that i can find. How/what did you make them out of to get to the higher HOC. Also, do you have a link to the reel you have? I currently have a 15 blade which is too many blades for my max height of .75"


----------



## MasterMech

Ajayk said:


> Hi all, I am still going through this thread, lot of information. I am new to reel mowing and have got Eclipse 2 118F in recent auction. However it is a 15 reel. Will I be able to cut .75 or 1 inch with this mower if I add tall front brackets. Also, if someone has installed those, please share the part number at R&R.
> 
> Thanks!


Don't forget that you have two rollers to move on that machine, front and rear.

15 blade reels are awesome.  But not for cutting at 3/4"+. You can cut that high with a 15, but you will not be able to cut very much off the grass. You will want to try to keep it cutting off .250" or less.

It's the bedknife that will be a challenge. You will want to find the knife that's rated at the highest cut possible. That would be R5000098 from R&R. But I might even try ordering R4118902 which is a medium profile knife from a fairway mower and seeing if it will fit.


----------



## chadh

Anyone have a photo of the key for an eclipse? I picked mine up with weeks and of course it didn't come with. Is there a work around to make it work? screwdriver didn't work


----------



## gutowscr471

chadh said:


> Anyone have a photo of the key for an eclipse? I picked mine up with weeks and of course it didn't come with. Is there a work around to make it work? screwdriver didn't work


@chadh 
What did you buy that needs a key?


----------



## chadh

An eclipse. It's all fixed now. It now uses a screwdriver instead of a key.


----------



## Ajayk

MasterMech said:


> Ajayk said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all, I am still going through this thread, lot of information. I am new to reel mowing and have got Eclipse 2 118F in recent auction. However it is a 15 reel. Will I be able to cut .75 or 1 inch with this mower if I add tall front brackets. Also, if someone has installed those, please share the part number at R&R.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> Don't forget that you have two rollers to move on that machine, front and rear.
> 
> 15 blade reels are awesome.  But not for cutting at 3/4"+. You can cut that high with a 15, but you will not be able to cut very much off the grass. You will want to try to keep it cutting off .250" or less.
> 
> It's the bedknife that will be a challenge. You will want to find the knife that's rated at the highest cut possible. That would be R5000098 from R&R. But I might even try ordering R4118902 which is a medium profile knife from a fairway mower and seeing if it will fit.
Click to expand...

Thanks, So 15 reel means more frequent mowing. If I am able to cut at .75 also I will be happy with that. I will look at these bed knifes also.


----------



## gutowscr471

M311att said:


> I have an eclipse 122f that drives slow. I have noticed that when I resist it's forward motion by holding back on the handle bars it speeds up. I've calibrated the thumb levers, maxed out the speed and even reset to factory default. Could it be as simple as a stretched drive belt?


@M311att,
Used mine for the first time and had the exact same experience. You figure anything out. Little annoying but not a huge deal I guess.


----------



## shannonwde

Hey Everyone,

So I managed to get a Jacobsen Eclipse 2 22in 122f at auction. It currently has a 15 blade reel. I am looking at trying to swap out the reel for a 7 blade reel or 9 blade reel, get a High cut Bedknife, and extend my HOC brackets to get close to 3/4 to 1 inch. Does anyone know of a Reel part number that will work? I can find an 11 blade but no luck on a 15 blade.

Thanks,


----------



## gutowscr471

Since there is limited information on the Eclipse 2 122F on HOC, I'm going bite the bullet and order some parts. I just ordered these HOC extenders to see if they fit, all I need is 3/4 to 7/8" max HOC. I will report back if these work. Should have them in hand by Wednesday. I backlapped the reel (man is that awesome on these) and the 15 blade is sharp and cuts paper across the bedknife with no contact. Through the service menu, I can see that 7,9,11,15 blade options are available, but only 11 and 15 are officially made for it for 122F. Really would like to know if anyone was able to get a 7 or 9 (prefer 9) on these.


----------



## MasterMech

gutowscr471 said:


> Since there is limited information on the Eclipse 2 122F on HOC, I'm going bite the bullet and order some parts. I just ordered these HOC extenders to see if they fit, all I need is 3/4 to 7/8" max HOC. I will report back if these work. Should have them in hand by Wednesday. I backlapped the reel (man is that awesome on these) and the 15 blade is sharp and cuts paper across the bedknife with no contact. Through the service menu, I can see that 7,9,11,15 blade options are available, but only 11 and 15 are officially made for it for 122F. Really would like to know if anyone was able to get a 7 or 9 (prefer 9) on these.





shannonwde said:


> Hey Everyone,
> 
> So I managed to get a Jacobsen Eclipse 2 22in 122f at auction. It currently has a 15 blade reel. I am looking at trying to swap out the reel for a 7 blade reel or 9 blade reel, get a High cut Bedknife, and extend my HOC brackets to get close to 3/4 to 1 inch. Does anyone know of a Reel part number that will work? I can find an 11 blade but no luck on a 15 blade.
> 
> Thanks,


When looking for unlisted but compatible parts, I'll often look for a cutting unit that is similar but intended for a different application, like a triplex or fairway mower. In this case, I'd be looking for a machine that runs a 22" x 5" reel, ?right hand? electric drive. Maybe the Eclipse 322?

Only the 26" walk-mowers are going to have heavy knives and 7-blade reels listed in the catalog. And the Eclipse/Eclipse2 26" units are the same frame/cutting unit as the GK526a machines. EDIT: ALMOST! The reels are different actually.


----------



## gutowscr471

Ok all. I just received my order above from R&Rarts 163231 and 163232 for extending HOC on Eclipse 2 122F and they fit and function PERFECTLY. Only closest to camera is changed out so you can see the difference and at same HOC on both sides. I bet I can get over 1" now but have to mow every day since still have the 15 blade reel...doing this in baby steps.


----------



## putterman

can anyone tell me how to get the side cover off my Greens King 518.


----------



## MasterMech

gutowscr471 said:


> Ok all. I just received my order above from R&Rarts 163231 and 163232 for extending HOC on Eclipse 2 122F and they fit and function PERFECTLY. Only closest to camera is changed out so you can see the difference and at same HOC on both sides. I bet I can get over 1" now but have to mow every day since still have the 15 blade reel...doing this in baby steps.


For those high heights, just make sure the bed knife attitude is correct. You have a floating head machine so you should be able to set the back roller to get the angle you want.


----------



## MasterMech

putterman said:


> can anyone tell me how to get the side cover off my Greens King 518.












https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=49849#p49849


----------



## MasterMech

@shannonwde and @gutowscr471

Here's everything I know about cross-compatible parts for 5" Jake Reels.

Items in orange are not always listed for that specific model. But I have found compatible references in various parts manuals and have a very high degree of confidence that they work.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kqUPtgdjIgmhK5RuIBUhTy4NmaOghE3l876UogjG6oY/edit?usp=sharing


----------



## PhxHeat

Pretty stoked ... yesterday I bought an older 90's? Jacobsen greens mower. There is no id tag that I've noticed.

I believe it is a PGM22. Reel is 22" wide and has 9 blades. The engine is a Honda GX120. The mower body has a single middle kickstand. The handle bar is simple with engagement lever on the left near the top and a twist dial style throttle on the right side next to the grip.

The question I have is: IS there a stamped s/n on the body somewhere that would indicate what year it is and a model #?


----------



## PhxHeat

Colinwjholding said:


>


my mower is very similar to this pic that
@Colinwjholding posted.


----------



## wtlawn

PhxHeat said:


> Pretty stoked ... yesterday I bought an older 90's? Jacobsen greens mower. There is no id tag that I've noticed.
> 
> I believe it is a PGM22. Reel is 22" wide and has 9 blades. The engine is a Honda GX120. The mower body has a single middle kickstand. The handle bar is simple with engagement lever on the left near the top and a twist dial style throttle on the right side next to the grip.
> 
> The question I have is: IS there a stamped s/n on the body somewhere that would indicate what year it is and a model #?


@PhxHeat

The only way to tell the model # I know of is by decal on the mower. Even with model # on my mower, I can't tell the year of my mower. Another way to tell might be by engine, which unfortunately I'm not familiar with.

In addition to PGM22, there is an older model call Greens Mower, which I think is ancestor of PGM and is mostly the same as PGM. The only differences I can tell from the manual is newer PGM model comes with InCommand™ Control System (a black box on the handle for speed control, instead of throttle). Also the transport wheels and hubs are different. For the picture you show I would say it's Greens Mower.

Why do you need the model and year numbers for your mower?


----------



## PhxHeat

@wtlawn thanks for the info. As for the why do I need a serial/model #, it typically makes life a whole lot easier when trying to find information, diagrams and or parts if/when I need them.


----------



## PhxHeat

Here's a pic of my Jacobsen. Checked the plug, filter and oil. Made it run with carb cleaner. Pulled the carb, cleaned the float bowl and the main jets. Threw it back together and with the first pull it started easily. Adjusted the idle. Adjusted the cut height. Made several passes through the backyard ARG. Wow, it runs and cuts GREAT. So quiet and smooth compared to my McLane "Ol'Junky". Took the Jacobsen to the front and cut the PRG at 3/4". Stoked.





Based on searching a bunch of online manuals looking at the breakdown diagrams, the body seems to match up best with the late 70's early 80's era models .... but, I can't say for certain that is what it is. The Honda GX120 has an "emissions" compliance sticker for 1995, so lets go with that for the engine. No matter either way, it runs and cuts amazing in my book. Looking forward to the return of the Bermuda and improving it some more this year.


----------



## GSJake

Hello. Your mower appears to be a PGM22, pre Command version. The service manual is available at https://www.jacobsen.com/americas-parts-manuals. Click Service Repair Manual Product Code 62269.


----------



## PhxHeat

@GSJake, thanks. Yes it is the pre Command version. Although it does not match up to the 62269 product code.

What I found searching through various on-line manuals and now using the Jacobsen/Textron page you provided in the "Models out of Production" section; my mower body is closest to the "Publication No 364080, GREENS MOWER 22 62235, Serial No 1601 and up".

The earlier GREENS MOWER 22 62230 (publication no 359474) also appears mostly the same and like mine as well.

I've printed these out along with a manual for the Honda GX120 engine for future reference. I will be laminating, hole punching, and putting them in a binder to keep readily handy if needed.

Thanks to everyone for sharing their info and resources.


----------



## TheSlowOne

Hello fellow Jake owners!

I am in the process of putting new belts, plates and bearings on the clutch shaft. I have a couple of questions in terms of removing the clutch shaft. How would you guys remove the bolt at the end of the shaft with out the shaft spinning? 


Do I need to take apart the bearing housing that attaches to the right end plate to remove the shaft?


----------



## MasterMech

@TheSlowOne She needs a bath inside that housing!

I'd just unbolt the engine mounting plate and get the entire engine out of the way. Don't lose the shims underneath. The whole shaft assembly should then unbolt from the frame, and can be mounted in a shop vise to remove the remaining components.


----------



## TheSlowOne

MasterMech said:


> @TheSlowOne She needs a bath inside that housing!
> 
> I'd just unbolt the engine mounting plate and get the entire engine out of the way. Don't lose the shims underneath. The whole shaft assembly should then unbolt from the frame, and can be mounted in a shop vise to remove the remaining components.


@MasterMech I'll give moving the engine a try. She'll be getting a bath on that side of the mower, I dont want to think what the other side of the mower looks like :lol:.


----------



## TheSlowOne

Big shout out to @MasterMech! Thanks to him, I now have a fully operational Greensking 522A! For anybody wondering, if you need to remove the clutch shaft for some reason, remove the clutch finger housing, then remove the engine and the whole body slides out. Can't wait to start cutting low!


----------



## MasterMech

TheSlowOne said:


> Big shout out to @MasterMech! Thanks to him, I now have a fully operational Greensking 522A! For anybody wondering, if you need to remove the clutch shaft for some reason, remove the clutch finger housing, then remove the engine and the whole body slides out. Can't wait to start cutting low!


Happy to hear it's alive! :thumbup:

Now just keep quiet about how good of a mower these are.....  I like that the prices for these are relatively low compared to their red and green cousins. :bd: :mrgreen:


----------



## Jack2012

G'Day everyone,
I'm in Australia and have a couple of 522A's being shipped to me currently. Question - can anyone tell from these pics which reels I have? 11,14?
Thanks guys.


----------



## MasterMech

Jack2012 said:


> G'Day everyone,
> I'm in Australia and have a couple of 522A's being shipped to me currently. Question - can anyone tell from these pics which reels I have? 11,14?
> Thanks guys.


Sure look like 11's to me.


----------



## Jack2012

MasterMech said:


> Jack2012 said:
> 
> 
> 
> G'Day everyone,
> I'm in Australia and have a couple of 522A's being shipped to me currently. Question - can anyone tell from these pics which reels I have? 11,14?
> Thanks guys.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure look like 11's to me.
Click to expand...

Thank you


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

I have a Eclipse II and am looking for a replacement reel. Would it be ok to change the 15 blade with an 11 blade? There is a significant cost difference between the 15 and 11. Part number on the 15 is 4223946 and the part number on the 11 is 4172945.

Thank you


----------



## MasterMech

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> I have a Eclipse II and am looking for a replacement reel. Would it be ok to change the 15 blade with an 11 blade? There is a significant cost difference between the 15 and 11. Part number on the 15 is 4223946 and the part number on the 11 is 4172945.
> 
> Thank you


Do you have an Eclipse 2 18" or 22"? Floating head? (ie. Eclipse 2 122f vs Eclipse 2 122)

Either way, there is no problem going to an 11-Blade, I'd recommend it over a 15 actually in most cases. If I know which machine you have, and what height of cut range you intend to use, I can give you the part numbers for a reel/knife combo that I'd recommend.


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Thanks @MasterMech, I didn't think it would be a problem. I have the 22", serial# 63339.

I cut between .3 & .5"


----------



## MasterMech

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> Thanks @MasterMech, I didn't think it would be a problem. I have the 22", serial# 63339.
> 
> I cut between .3 & .5"


Looks like you have a fixed-head Eclipse 2 122. Unfortunately, no 7-blade reel available for those.

4172945 - 11 blade reel
5003150 - Medium Section Knife
503477 - High-Profile Knife

I'd probably go for the High-Profile knife as you could scalp and cut with it. The medium knife would be a more aggressive cut in the range you specify, but it also would be more likely to bottom if you don't have well-leveled turf and cutting lower than .300" (ie: for a scalp) would probably be a no-go. If you're nuts like me, you could swap knives (or whole bed-bar assemblies!) for the scalp and go back to the medium for regular cutting heights.


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Thanks again @MasterMech


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

@MasterMech, sorry for the additional question. I am under the impression that if I replace the reel I should be replacing the bearings also. Is that right?


----------



## wtlawn

Can somebody tell me how to remove the clutch shaft on PGM? I'm working on Greens Mower 22" (model 62208). I've taken the nut and washer next to the sprocket off on one side and engine on the other side as shown below. 


I'm not sure which direction the shaft goes out. From the manual below, it looks like the sprocket is locked by a key. Do I just use a gear puller to pull the sprocket out and slide the shaft off with clutch assemblies attached on the other side? (If so, What kind and size of gear puller do I need?) Or I should remove all the clutch assemblies on one side first and then slide the shaft off with sprocket.


Thanks in advance!


----------



## wtlawn

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> @MasterMech, sorry for the additional question. I am under the impression that if I replace the reel I should be replacing the bearings also. Is that right?


@MNLawnGuy1980 
Here's a thread for replacing the reel on PGM, looks like replacing bearings is optional depending on the condition.


----------



## MasterMech

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> @MasterMech, sorry for the additional question. I am under the impression that if I replace the reel I should be replacing the bearings also. Is that right?


I would always replace the bearings and seals along with the reel. They are pretty inexpensive and typically add ≈$40 to the job.


----------



## MasterMech

wtlawn said:


> MNLawnGuy1980 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MasterMech, sorry for the additional question. I am under the impression that if I replace the reel I should be replacing the bearings also. Is that right?
> 
> 
> 
> @MNLawnGuy1980
> Here's a thread for replacing the reel on PGM, looks like replacing bearings is optional depending on the condition.
Click to expand...

The way the Jake (and many others) reel is setup, wear on the tapered roller bearings is compensated for via a spring on the reel axle opposite the driven end. As long as there is no radial play in the fit between the reel axle and the bearing's inner race, it's entirely reusable. You're actually more likely to wear out the seals before the bearing. If you have the luxury of being able to measure the wear with a dial indicator and wait for parts, then mechanically, I see no fault in that approach. Practically speaking however, the bearings/seals are inexpensive and it's very easy to replace them with the reel already out. No special tools are required. Saves flushing any old grease out of the bearings as well.


----------



## wtlawn

@MasterMech This is a good lessen learned. I just start working on my first ever reel mower and feel grateful how much info is available in this thread.


----------



## reel_green

Hello everyone I am looking at purchasing a Reel Mower and have found a Greens Mower for sale. I currently run a rotary mower and want to try and run a Reel mower only for my front yard for now 2500 sq ft. I will be going to look at this one on Saturday. New bed knife and fresh sharpening this year. He did say the carburetor needs work. I figure I could replace it.

What is a good price? He is asking $350

What should I look for when inspecting it?

What should I ask?

Would this be a good beginner reel mower?


----------



## MasterMech

@reel_green that looks like an older GreensKing 522? I see a groomer attachment on that unit as well. I am a big fan of the Jake walk-mowers, they make good home lawn mowers as well. I would make sure it runs and drives, the reel spins without making any strange noises, etc. If the groomer is 100% functional, that's a nice bonus. If not, you're looking at $$$ to repair or retrofit back to a simple roller up front. The groomer roller is different than the standard rollers. In regards to the carburetor, you might be surprised what shooting a little carb cleaner through the passageways will do. But replacing it is usually an economical option as well.

Ask if they have the transport wheels for it as well. They certainly aren't critical but very nice to have. Price overall seems pretty good for a running 22" unit with a functioning groomer. Especially considering what greensmowers have been going for at auction lately.

One thing to consider, it likely was setup for greens at one time. If it has a 15 blade reel, you won't be able to cut very much grass off at a time, maybe 1/8" max. An 11-blade reel would be preferable (and it's likely to have one installed already). Ask if they know what bedknife is installed. The bedknife will determine what height's the mower will cut well at. They are pretty inexpensive to replace if necessary.


----------



## reel_green

@MasterMech thank you for the good information. He said everything functions as it should aside from the carburetor making the engine a little weak.

I'll be sure to listen for weird noises and ask what bed knife is installed. My main concern is to make sure that the HOC can be up to 1-1.5".


----------



## MasterMech

reel_green said:


> @MasterMech thank you for the good information. He said everything functions as it should aside from the carburetor making the engine a little weak.
> 
> I'll be sure to listen for weird noises and ask what bed knife is installed. My main concern is to make sure that the HOC can be up to 1-1.5".


I would listen for any knocking noise from the engine too. My 526 is not a strong as my 522 and I can hear the bottom-end bearings knocking quite distinctly. But that engine has a gazillion hours on it too. Engines are cheap to replace. $300 buys another Honda GX120, or you should be able to swap the Predator 212 on for $100 or so.


----------



## reel_green

@MasterMech I saw brackets to increase HOC for these. Do you know if the brackets would work since there is a groomer on this machine?


----------



## MasterMech

reel_green said:


> @MasterMech I saw brackets to increase HOC for these. Do you know if the brackets would work since there is a groomer on this machine?


As far as I know, you are limited in HoC with the groomer installed, as the front roller is attached to the groomer frame and not the actual mower frame as it would be if the groomer was not installed.


----------



## blaw

Apologies upfront, I'm just getting started on reel mowing and maintaining my 518. Hoping someone could tell me if there's any easy way to replace the 2 piece disc clutch or if I need to remove the engine. 

Seems like some of those pieces would slide right if I could get the clutch arm off the housing but bottom bolt seems inaccessible. The disc being a 2 piece seems to indicate it can be changed without removing the shaft. But I'm stumped. I've got the technical manual (don't think it's the service manual) and seems from parts break out pulling the engine is easier than disassembling the belt side. Seems to be 1000 + 1 pieces in that side.


----------



## TheSlowOne

@blaw Removing the engine is the easiest way to work on the clutches. Just remember the orientation of the washers and shims on the plate that the engine is mounted on. You might be able to work on the clutch with out removing the shaft once the engine is out, but if you need to remove the shaft you'll have to remove the belt housing.
I know if you go a couple pages back @MasterMech walked me through removing the engine and shaft.


----------



## blaw

Thanks for response @TheSlowOne! Was afraid that would be the answer, just hoped the 2 piece disc meant there was an easier way.

Just noticed in parts image, it appears my clutch fingers aren't installed properly. Mine is behind the arm instead of on the outside like this:


----------



## TheSlowOne

@blaw looks like they did that to get more life out of the worn out clutch plate. But yeah don't be afraid of moving the engine it made working on it those parts waaayyyy easier, and made me wonder why I didn't do it first. Once you take it off you realize it is pretty simple to replace the engine in the future if you ever need to go down that route.


----------



## blaw

Thanks again @TheSlowOne! Your theory makes sense regarding the fingers. It also makes me feel better knowing someone didn't just put it in wrong.


----------



## blaw

With the weekend here, I took a closer look at the clutch fingers and was able to get a wrench on it. Also clutch fingers were on the outside of the arm. Guess the angle of the pic the it off. Hopefully this helps others that are learning like me.

After removing nuts and clutch fingers (bolts and nuts are 1/2")


Took some WD40 and some back and forth to make enough room to pull out the clutch discs


My special 3 piece clutch disc


Much Thanks to @TheSlowOne for the responses and encouragement!


----------



## TheSlowOne

Make sure there isn't any wear like I had on this clutch finger lol


Bonus image me trying to remove the drive shaft before MasterMech's sage advice of moving the motor lol


Looks like your figure it out alright though!


----------



## Brent_K

Had a question regarding the Eclipse 22's. I have a local dealer that has 6 of these, some with brush groomers, back on trade in and he's asking $600 a piece with trailer (trailer isn't important to me). They are all less than 400 hours, from a local country club. I feel like this is a hell of a deal, but just want to make sure...
I currently have an old 26" Greensking project mower with groomer, but I feel like I should bail on it and jump to the Eclipse. What say you?


----------



## MasterMech

Brent_K said:


> Had a question regarding the Eclipse 22's. I have a local dealer that has 6 of these, some with brush groomers, back on trade in and he's asking $600 a piece with trailer (trailer isn't important to me). They are all less than 400 hours, from a local country club. I feel like this is a hell of a deal, but just want to make sure...
> I currently have an old 26" Greensking project mower with groomer, but I feel like I should bail on it and jump to the Eclipse. What say you?


If they run and cut, include catchers and maybe wheels, then absolutely, yes, very good deal.


----------



## Brent_K

MasterMech said:


> Brent_K said:
> 
> 
> 
> Had a question regarding the Eclipse 22's. I have a local dealer that has 6 of these, some with brush groomers, back on trade in and he's asking $600 a piece with trailer (trailer isn't important to me). They are all less than 400 hours, from a local country club. I feel like this is a hell of a deal, but just want to make sure...
> I currently have an old 26" Greensking project mower with groomer, but I feel like I should bail on it and jump to the Eclipse. What say you?
> 
> 
> 
> If they run and cut, include catchers and maybe wheels, then absolutely, yes, very good deal.
Click to expand...

They do, they do and they do! Alright gonna grab one. Has anyone had one with the brush groomer? Is it worth it to get that over one without a groomer? Also, is it possible and/or easy to switch out the brush groomer to a metal groomer?


----------



## MasterMech

Brent_K said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Brent_K said:
> 
> 
> 
> Had a question regarding the Eclipse 22's. I have a local dealer that has 6 of these, some with brush groomers, back on trade in and he's asking $600 a piece with trailer (trailer isn't important to me). They are all less than 400 hours, from a local country club. I feel like this is a hell of a deal, but just want to make sure...
> I currently have an old 26" Greensking project mower with groomer, but I feel like I should bail on it and jump to the Eclipse. What say you?
> 
> 
> 
> If they run and cut, include catchers and maybe wheels, then absolutely, yes, very good deal.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> They do, they do and they do! Alright gonna grab one. Has anyone had one with the brush groomer? Is it worth it to get that over one without a groomer? Also, is it possible and/or easy to switch out the brush groomer to a metal groomer?
Click to expand...

I think for those, you just need the groomer shaft, blades, and spacers. If it's a bi-directional groomer, it should be a quick change between the two.


----------



## Brent_K

MasterMech said:


> Brent_K said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> If they run and cut, include catchers and maybe wheels, then absolutely, yes, very good deal.
> 
> 
> 
> They do, they do and they do! Alright gonna grab one. Has anyone had one with the brush groomer? Is it worth it to get that over one without a groomer? Also, is it possible and/or easy to switch out the brush groomer to a metal groomer?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think for those, you just need the groomer shaft, blades, and spacers. If it's a bi-directional groomer, it should be a quick change between the two.
Click to expand...

Great. Thank you!


----------



## slammed68

Been putting this off for a while....dove in deep today. :bd:


----------



## Jack2012

Brent_K said:


> Had a question regarding the Eclipse 22's. I have a local dealer that has 6 of these, some with brush groomers, back on trade in and he's asking $600 a piece with trailer (trailer isn't important to me). They are all less than 400 hours, from a local country club. I feel like this is a hell of a deal, but just want to make sure...
> I currently have an old 26" Greensking project mower with groomer, but I feel like I should bail on it and jump to the Eclipse. What say you?


Which dealer?


----------



## Brent_K

Jack2012 said:


> Brent_K said:
> 
> 
> 
> Had a question regarding the Eclipse 22's. I have a local dealer that has 6 of these, some with brush groomers, back on trade in and he's asking $600 a piece with trailer (trailer isn't important to me). They are all less than 400 hours, from a local country club. I feel like this is a hell of a deal, but just want to make sure...
> I currently have an old 26" Greensking project mower with groomer, but I feel like I should bail on it and jump to the Eclipse. What say you?
> 
> 
> 
> Which dealer?
Click to expand...

It's a local dealer in Meridian ID. I think RMT or something.


----------



## gutowscr471

MasterMech said:


> @shannonwde and @gutowscr471
> 
> Here's everything I know about cross-compatible parts for 5" Jake Reels.
> 
> Items in orange are not always listed for that specific model. But I have found compatible references in various parts manuals and have a very high degree of confidence that they work.
> 
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kqUPtgdjIgmhK5RuIBUhTy4NmaOghE3l876UogjG6oY/edit?usp=sharing


@MasterMech 
I'm going all in on the 9 blade for my Eclipse 2 122F. This is the part number you had on the previous post(5001099). Any last thoughts before I order it. I know I need to update the settings once I change from 15 to 9 blade.


----------



## MasterMech

gutowscr471 said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> @shannonwde and @gutowscr471
> 
> Here's everything I know about cross-compatible parts for 5" Jake Reels.
> 
> Items in orange are not always listed for that specific model. But I have found compatible references in various parts manuals and have a very high degree of confidence that they work.
> 
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1kqUPtgdjIgmhK5RuIBUhTy4NmaOghE3l876UogjG6oY/edit?usp=sharing
> 
> 
> 
> @MasterMech
> I'm going all in on the 9 blade for my Eclipse 2 122F. This is the part number you had on the previous post(5001099). Any last thoughts before I order it. I know I need to update the settings once I change from 15 to 9 blade.
Click to expand...

I would go for the 7 personally unless you need to mow lower than .250". Nothing wrong with a 9, I just like the durability of the 7 and those thick blades.


----------



## slammed68

Got the mower all back together with a new reel & bedknife along with with most of the bearings. Gotta say, I hate that stupid woodruff key on the the drive axle. Seems like It causes problems every time.



Gave the yard a cut and it feels really smooth. it still needs some additional backlapping, the reel makes contact in the center but not the ends. Shouldnt be a big deal.

One thing I did notice is that when I run the mower at a faster pace for a few minutes it will start whining/groaning. If I stop for 20 seconds or so and start going again the noise dissappears. Im pretty sure it's heat related but im not sure where exactly the noise is coming from.

Could it be the belts? Maybe i've got'em adjusted too tight and when everything gets hot they tighten up too much? i'll probably try adjusting them a bit and see if it changes. Curious if anyone has run into that before?


----------



## Whisper

First time poster.
I'm trying to get into the reel mowing game and contacting a local golf course to see if I could purchase an old greens mower. They had an old Jacobsen Greens Mower 22 (model 62239) that the heads greens keeper didn't want anymore and gave it to me. I watched it run and cut at the course before getting it home, but now every time I try to engage the reel the engine cut out, and it's getting to the point where it cuts out after about 30-45 sec even without engaging the drive or reel. I'm thinking of replacing the old 2-stoke engine with a model 4-stroke. Has anyone done this with an old Jacobsen and have any recommendations or tips? I'm looking at a Briggs and Stratton 800 series engine as a replacement. Any help would be great, Thanks!


----------



## MasterMech

I'm a two-stroke guy, so not much help here. I'd do everything I could to save that engine!


----------



## Whisper

MasterMech said:


> I'm a two-stroke guy, so not much help here. I'd do everything I could to save that engine!


MasterMech, thanks for the reply. I believe the engine is from 1989 or a little later. I'm not a small engine guy, but from the little I've read it sounds like their life cycle is only a couple hundred hours. Would a small engine mechanic be able to "bring it back to like" as it were? My main goal is to get into Reel mowing without breaking bank and have a reliable machine. If the engine can be rebuilt I'm willing to go that route, but I wasn't sure how likely that was.


----------



## MasterMech

Whisper said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a two-stroke guy, so not much help here. I'd do everything I could to save that engine!
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech, thanks for the reply. I believe the engine is from 1989 or a little later. I'm not a small engine guy, but from the little I've read it sounds like their life cycle is only a couple hundred hours. Would a small engine mechanic be able to "bring it back to like" as it were? My main goal is to get into Reel mowing without breaking bank and have a reliable machine. If the engine can be rebuilt I'm willing to go that route, but I wasn't sure how likely that was.
Click to expand...

A competent mechanic should be able to diagnose that engine and tell you if it's worth saving or not. If it doesn't have major air leaks and makes good compression, it's probably good for another 30 years.


----------



## ahlb0012

Hi All - new to the site and am very impressed with such a helpful group willing to help other lawn enthusiasts.

I've run across a golf course selling a few Jacobsen 522 mowers for $500 each. I was hoping to get some thoughts from the group before determining whether to move forward and whether that's a fair price. I'm new to reel mowing. I'd like to mow low, but not putting green low. Here's some information from the seller:

_I have a few left. They all have 1600-1800 hours on them and engines were replaced in that 1000-1200 hours with Honda 5 HP. These come from a golf course so we bought them new and serviced them regularly by a seasoned golf course mechanic. They are sharp and ready to cut with many years left on both the reel and bedknife. They have always been transported with tires on so rear drum rollers are in excellent condition. Would be happy to pass along owner's manual and service records with the purchase. There is a mixture of solid and grooved rollers and they all have grass buckets._​
Thoughts? Thanks in advance for your insight!


----------



## MasterMech

ahlb0012 said:


> Hi All - new to the site and am very impressed with such a helpful group willing to help other lawn enthusiasts.
> 
> I've run across a golf course selling a few Jacobsen 522 mowers for $500 each. I was hoping to get some thoughts from the group before determining whether to move forward and whether that's a fair price. I'm new to reel mowing. I'd like to mow low, but no putting green low. Here's some information from the seller:
> 
> _I have a few left. They all have 1600-1800 hours on them and engines were replaced in that 1000-1200 hours with Honda 5 HP. These come from a golf course so we bought them new and serviced them regularly by a seasoned golf course mechanic. They are sharp and ready to cut with many years left on both the reel and bedknife. They have always been transported with tires on so rear drum rollers are in excellent condition. Would be happy to pass along owner's manual and service records with the purchase. There is a mixture of solid and grooved rollers and they all have grass buckets._​
> Thoughts? Thanks in advance for your insight!


$500 for a running/cutting mower is a pretty decent deal. Here's some random thoughts.

Are all of those machines T-Handles? Most GK500 series machines had the loop handles. It's a matter of preference, but I'm much faster in the turns with a loop handle machine.

The machine in the photo has a good bit of negative camber on those transport wheels. I'm sure it takes the corners on the cart path like it's on rails. :lol: Anyways, the reason I comment on this, is that the outer ball bearings for the traction axle often get neglected and rust, leading to failure. When that happens, they start to wear a wide groove in the axle shaft. This shows up as the wheels leaning inboard like in the photo. This does not affect it's ability to mow, as the wheels are removed to mow turf. But should you ever get the itch to replace that axle, it's about $300 for the axle plus misc parts along the way. By this point, the sprag bearings in the wheel hubs are usually red dust as well so figure on rebuilding the transport hubs. I've estimated doing mine at roughly $500 for a DIY job of replacing the axle and rebuilding those hubs.

And finally, my chief gripe with the 522 (vs the 526, PGM 22, or an Eclipse 122) - No 7 or 9 blade reel available. The 11 blade does the job, but it's limited in how much grass it will clip in one pass without leaving stragglers. If you stick to your mowing schedule, and are only cutting off 1/8"-1/4" at a time, it should do fine. It's just not going to get everything in one pass if your lawn gets overgrown. Heavy and medium section bedknives are available, as are the tall roller brackets for heights over 7/16". So no problem going up to about 1" with this machine. And these are excellent candidates for a dedicated groomer/verticutter conversion in the future should you decide to upgrade.

If you go to pick one out of the lot, look for one with no sag in the rear axle, the heaviest, widest grooved front roller and check the front roller bearings. It should spin silently with no radial play at all. While you're there, look at the cast aluminum brackets that the roller brackets bolt to. Make sure they are not cracked, if they look super beefy, they are likely aftermarket replacements which is a good thing in this case. About $60ea to replace if you need negotiating power. The front rollers are a bit spendy ($150-$250, depending) to replace and the tools to rebuild a front roller exceed what it will cost you to just replace it. Jacobsen's roller end seals and bearings can be a real pain in the arse if you don't already have the tools to remove one. I replaced my front roller on the 26" with a Toro style ("water pump") bearing setup that is much simpler to rebuild. Everything else is pretty inexpensive and reasonable to maintain.


----------



## ahlb0012

MasterMech said:


> ahlb0012 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi All - new to the site and am very impressed with such a helpful group willing to help other lawn enthusiasts.
> 
> I've run across a golf course selling a few Jacobsen 522 mowers for $500 each. I was hoping to get some thoughts from the group before determining whether to move forward and whether that's a fair price. I'm new to reel mowing. I'd like to mow low, but no putting green low. Here's some information from the seller:
> 
> _I have a few left. They all have 1600-1800 hours on them and engines were replaced in that 1000-1200 hours with Honda 5 HP. These come from a golf course so we bought them new and serviced them regularly by a seasoned golf course mechanic. They are sharp and ready to cut with many years left on both the reel and bedknife. They have always been transported with tires on so rear drum rollers are in excellent condition. Would be happy to pass along owner's manual and service records with the purchase. There is a mixture of solid and grooved rollers and they all have grass buckets._​
> Thoughts? Thanks in advance for your insight!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $500 for a running/cutting mower is a pretty decent deal. Here's some random thoughts.
> 
> Are all of those machines T-Handles? Most GK500 series machines had the loop handles. It's a matter of preference, but I'm much faster in the turns with a loop handle machine.
> 
> The machine in the photo has a good bit of negative camber on those transport wheels. I'm sure it takes the corners on the cart path like it's on rails. :lol: Anyways, the reason I comment on this, is that the outer ball bearings for the traction axle often get neglected and rust, leading to failure. When that happens, they start to wear a wide groove in the axle shaft. This shows up as the wheels leaning inboard like in the photo. This does not affect it's ability to mow, as the wheels are removed to mow turf. But should you ever get the itch to replace that axle, it's about $300 for the axle plus misc parts along the way. By this point, the sprag bearings in the wheel hubs are usually red dust as well so figure on rebuilding the transport hubs. I've estimated doing mine at roughly $500 for a DIY job of replacing the axle and rebuilding those hubs.
> 
> And finally, my chief gripe with the 522 (vs the 526, PGM 22, or an Eclipse 122) - No 7 or 9 blade reel available. The 11 blade does the job, but it's limited in how much grass it will clip in one pass without leaving stragglers. If you stick to your mowing schedule, and are only cutting off 1/8"-1/4" at a time, it should do fine. It's just not going to get everything in one pass if your lawn gets overgrown. Heavy and medium section bedknives are available, as are the tall roller brackets for heights over 7/16". So no problem going up to about 1" with this machine. And these are excellent candidates for a dedicated groomer/verticutter conversion in the future should you decide to upgrade.
> 
> If you go to pick one out of the lot, look for one with no sag in the rear axle, the heaviest, widest grooved front roller and check the front roller bearings. It should spin silently with no radial play at all. While you're there, look at the cast aluminum brackets that the roller brackets bolt to. Make sure they are not cracked, if they look super beefy, they are likely aftermarket replacements which is a good thing in this case. About $60ea to replace if you need negotiating power. The front rollers are a bit spendy ($150-$250, depending) to replace and the tools to rebuild a front roller exceed what it will cost you to just replace it. Jacobsen's roller end seals and bearings can be a real pain in the arse if you don't already have the tools to remove one. I replaced my front roller on the 26" with a Toro style ("water pump") bearing setup that is much simpler to rebuild. Everything else is pretty inexpensive and reasonable to maintain.
Click to expand...

Thanks MasterMech! I really appreciate you sharing your experience. All great tips. I'm going to try and take a look at the lot this weekend and will pay special attention to the wheel camber and roller bearings. I don't know whether there are any with the loop handles. I hope so.

If I end up with one of these machines, I'll have to accelerate my planned leveling project. :shock:

Cheers!


----------



## M311att

@MasterMech do you know what this is? I tilted back my eclipse 122f and when I put it down this was left behind. It's possible it is completely unrelated but I thought I'd ask you first.


----------



## MasterMech

M311att said:


> @MasterMech do you know what this is? I tilted back my eclipse 122f and when I put it down this was left behind. It's possible it is completely unrelated but I thought I'd ask you first.


Hmmm. Looks important. :lol:

Unfortunately, I don't know the Eclipse units as well as the 500 series. I hope to change that at some point!


----------



## Jimefam

So my 526a stopped working today. Thinking the clutch went bad as the drum clutch is engaged but it doesnt move at all no matter how much gas im giving it. How complicated a repair is this and is it something where the instructions are online somewhere? Last two cuts i did notice it was taking more throttle to get it moving and a little push to get it going from a standstill so I guess was slipping and finally went now.

Have a backup 526 so Im ok for now but dont like being without a back-up so want to get on this Asap.


----------



## MasterMech

Jimefam said:


> So my 526a stopped working today. Thinking the clutch went bad as the drum clutch is engaged but it doesnt move at all no matter how much gas im giving it. How complicated a repair is this and is it something where the instructions are online somewhere? Last two cuts i did notice it was taking more throttle to get it moving and a little push to get it going from a standstill so I guess was slipping and finally went now.
> 
> Have a backup 526 so Im ok for now but dont like being without a back-up so want to get on this Asap.


Is this a centrifugal clutch model or a plate-style?


----------



## Jimefam

MasterMech said:


> Jimefam said:
> 
> 
> 
> So my 526a stopped working today. Thinking the clutch went bad as the drum clutch is engaged but it doesnt move at all no matter how much gas im giving it. How complicated a repair is this and is it something where the instructions are online somewhere? Last two cuts i did notice it was taking more throttle to get it moving and a little push to get it going from a standstill so I guess was slipping and finally went now.
> 
> Have a backup 526 so Im ok for now but dont like being without a back-up so want to get on this Asap.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this a centrifugal clutch model or a plate-style?
Click to expand...

Not sure but here is a pic


----------



## MasterMech

Jimefam said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jimefam said:
> 
> 
> 
> So my 526a stopped working today. Thinking the clutch went bad as the drum clutch is engaged but it doesnt move at all no matter how much gas im giving it. How complicated a repair is this and is it something where the instructions are online somewhere? Last two cuts i did notice it was taking more throttle to get it moving and a little push to get it going from a standstill so I guess was slipping and finally went now.
> 
> Have a backup 526 so Im ok for now but dont like being without a back-up so want to get on this Asap.
> 
> 
> 
> Is this a centrifugal clutch model or a plate-style?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure but here is a pic
Click to expand...

That's a plate style. Sounds like you may need a set of friction discs or an adjustment. (Page 40 in the manual linked below)

Service Manual Here:

https://www.jacobsen.com/manuals/4171651.pdf

But I need to back up a bit, I'm assuming the problem is in the main clutch. Does the reel work normally with the traction clutch disengaged?


----------



## Jimefam

MasterMech said:


> Jimefam said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> Is this a centrifugal clutch model or a plate-style?
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure but here is a pic
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That's a plate style. Sounds like you may need a set of friction discs or an adjustment. (Page 40 in the manual linked below)
> 
> Service Manual Here:
> 
> https://www.jacobsen.com/manuals/4171651.pdf
> 
> But I need to back up a bit, I'm assuming the problem is in the main clutch. Does the reel work normally with the traction clutch disengaged?
Click to expand...

Hmmm just tried it and no it does not move the reel either with the traction clutch disengaged.


----------



## gutowscr471

@MasterMech 
In the process of getting my 122F ready for new 9 blade. How the heck do you get these housings off? I unbolted everything I can possibly see. Can't even get it loose from the frame. Am I missing something? Don't think I need a puller for Eclipse based on these instructions, just have to rotate:

For Eclipse mower cutting units, disengage reel
bearing housing (3) from frame (11) using two 5/16 -
18 x 2 1/2 screws threaded into holes (12). Then
rotate reel bearing housing (3) to align grease fitting
(10) with the clearance hole in the frame, and
remove reel bearing housing. Proceed to step 11.


----------



## MasterMech

Jimefam said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jimefam said:
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure but here is a pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a plate style. Sounds like you may need a set of friction discs or an adjustment. (Page 40 in the manual linked below)
> 
> Service Manual Here:
> 
> https://www.jacobsen.com/manuals/4171651.pdf
> 
> But I need to back up a bit, I'm assuming the problem is in the main clutch. Does the reel work normally with the traction clutch disengaged?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hmmm just tried it and no it does not move the reel either with the traction clutch disengaged.
Click to expand...

If the clutch shaft is spinning and you can't get power to the traction drum or the reel, I suspect the answer is under the belt housing cover. The power is transferred off the main clutch driveshaft, via a poly-v belt to the reel clutch. The reel clutch is linked to the reduction pulley/shaft (cog belt) and in turn to the traction roller.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=49849#p49849


----------



## MasterMech

gutowscr471 said:


> @MasterMech
> In the process of getting my 122F ready for new 9 blade. How the heck do you get these housings off? I unbolted everything I can possibly see. Can't even get it loose from the frame. Am I missing something? Don't think I need a puller for Eclipse based on these instructions, just have to rotate:
> 
> For Eclipse mower cutting units, disengage reel
> bearing housing (3) from frame (11) using two 5/16 -
> 18 x 2 1/2 screws threaded into holes (12). Then
> rotate reel bearing housing (3) to align grease fitting
> (10) with the clearance hole in the frame, and
> remove reel bearing housing. Proceed to step 11.


If you have the snap ring off the motor side of the reel, then the housing should slide off the end. On the opposite side, it looks like you have the pre-tension nut off so should be good to go there too. My guess is they are just wedged into the frame via dirt in between the frame and housing. Are those two screws also to be used as jacking screws to force the housing out of the frame opening? If so, you'd have threaded holes going all the way through the housing with a solid section of frame behind for the bolts to push against.


----------



## Jimefam

MasterMech said:


> Jimefam said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's a plate style. Sounds like you may need a set of friction discs or an adjustment. (Page 40 in the manual linked below)
> 
> Service Manual Here:
> 
> https://www.jacobsen.com/manuals/4171651.pdf
> 
> But I need to back up a bit, I'm assuming the problem is in the main clutch. Does the reel work normally with the traction clutch disengaged?
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm just tried it and no it does not move the reel either with the traction clutch disengaged.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If the clutch shaft is spinning and you can't get power to the traction drum or the reel, I suspect the answer is under the belt housing cover. The power is transferred off the main clutch driveshaft, via a poly-v belt to the reel clutch. The reel clutch is linked to the reduction pulley/shaft (cog belt) and in turn to the traction roller.
> 
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=49849#p49849
Click to expand...

Ok cool will dive in Sunday as I dont have much time between then and now and hopefully will find my answer and get the larts ordered I need. Thank you a ton for your help!


----------



## gutowscr471

MasterMech said:


> gutowscr471 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MasterMech
> In the process of getting my 122F ready for new 9 blade. How the heck do you get these housings off? I unbolted everything I can possibly see. Can't even get it loose from the frame. Am I missing something? Don't think I need a puller for Eclipse based on these instructions, just have to rotate:
> 
> For Eclipse mower cutting units, disengage reel
> bearing housing (3) from frame (11) using two 5/16 -
> 18 x 2 1/2 screws threaded into holes (12). Then
> rotate reel bearing housing (3) to align grease fitting
> (10) with the clearance hole in the frame, and
> remove reel bearing housing. Proceed to step 11.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have the snap ring off the motor side of the reel, then the housing should slide off the end. On the opposite side, it looks like you have the pre-tension nut off so should be good to go there too. My guess is they are just wedged into the frame via dirt in between the frame and housing. Are those two screws also to be used as jacking screws to force the housing out of the frame opening? If so, you'd have threaded holes going all the way through the housing with a solid section of frame behind for the bolts to push against.
Click to expand...

@MasterMech 
Retaining clip is off. I took a 4lb hammer to this also with no luck. If where I have those bolts if they are open at the bottom of the housing, to the frame will just keep cranking on those to attempt to separate. Both sides are immovable.


----------



## gutowscr471

gutowscr471 said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gutowscr471 said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MasterMech
> In the process of getting my 122F ready for new 9 blade. How the heck do you get these housings off? I unbolted everything I can possibly see. Can't even get it loose from the frame. Am I missing something? Don't think I need a puller for Eclipse based on these instructions, just have to rotate:
> 
> For Eclipse mower cutting units, disengage reel
> bearing housing (3) from frame (11) using two 5/16 -
> 18 x 2 1/2 screws threaded into holes (12). Then
> rotate reel bearing housing (3) to align grease fitting
> (10) with the clearance hole in the frame, and
> remove reel bearing housing. Proceed to step 11.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have the snap ring off the motor side of the reel, then the housing should slide off the end. On the opposite side, it looks like you have the pre-tension nut off so should be good to go there too. My guess is they are just wedged into the frame via dirt in between the frame and housing. Are those two screws also to be used as jacking screws to force the housing out of the frame opening? If so, you'd have threaded holes going all the way through the housing with a solid section of frame behind for the bolts to push against.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> @MasterMech
> Retaining clip is off. I took a 4lb hammer to this also with no luck. If where I have those bolts if they are open at the bottom of the housing, to the frame will just keep cranking on those to attempt to separate. Both sides are immovable.
Click to expand...

@MasterMech 
Alright, finally got it. Bought 5/16-18 3" screws and got it out. Then had to use a puller to get motor side bearing off..man, what I pain. Firs time issues!. Anyway, just waiting for new parts to come in and get her back together. Thanks for your help. Going to give everything a great cleaning while I have it apart. Thanks again.


----------



## Brum

Well first post in this forum. Just picked up these three 422's for $250 of FB marketplace. I was planning on waiting another year and getting my lawn where it needs to be first but this deal came up and I thought...what the heck? Two are sequential serial numbers which I find neat and the other is a little newer. Missing a front roller on one and transport wheels on two. I am hoping to get at least one up and running well and then maybe piece together the other two. I might convert my brother and sell him one.

Right now I need to do a once over on all three for broken/missing parts. Going to order tune up kits for the Honda's as all pull start ropes are bound up or missing. Some wiring unplugged on the motors as well.

My wife rolled her eyes when I said I was getting another mower, and then again when I showed up with three. But when i told her maybe a putting green in the backyard she perked up.


----------



## DeepC

I'm going to order a new bedknife for my 526a, I'm assuming those need changed when you have the reel sharpened? Do I need to order new bedknife screws as well? I'm also going to order shorter roller brackets. I can only go down to HOC 5/8" now. I'm going to order from R&R and I'm not sure what thickness of bedknife to get. For the 26" bedknifes they have- Thin 1/8", Thick 3/16", and Heavy. Can someone explain what size bedknife to order? I would like to maintain HOC at 1/2". Thank you


----------



## MasterMech

Brum said:


> Well first post in this forum. Just picked up these three 422's for $250 of FB marketplace. I was planning on waiting another year and getting my lawn where it needs to be first but this deal came up and I thought...what the heck? Two are sequential serial numbers which I find neat and the other is a little newer. Missing a front roller on one and transport wheels on two. I am hoping to get at least one up and running well and then maybe piece together the other two. I might convert my brother and sell him one.
> 
> Right now I need to do a once over on all three for broken/missing parts. Going to order tune up kits for the Honda's as all pull start ropes are bound up or missing. Some wiring unplugged on the motors as well.
> 
> My wife rolled her eyes when I said I was getting another mower, and then again when I showed up with three. But when i told her maybe a putting green in the backyard she perked up.


Sweet! Of course you need at least two of those units. Your putting green needs one with a 15 blade reel mowing at .125, your fringe/approach needs an 11 blade cutting at .250" and if you do the rest of the lawn, well there's the third one.. Set it up at .500" ! :lol: :mrgreen:


----------



## MasterMech

DeepC said:


> I'm going to order a new bedknife for my 526a, I'm assuming those need changed when you have the reel sharpened? Do I need to order new bedknife screws as well? I'm also going to order shorter roller brackets. I can only go down to HOC 5/8" now. I'm going to order from R&R and I'm not sure what thickness of bedknife to get. For the 26" bedknifes they have- Thin 1/8", Thick 3/16", and Heavy. Can someone explain what size bedknife to order? I would like to maintain HOC at 1/2". Thank you


You don't have to change it if you are happy with the way your current one cuts. You can grind the existing knife and go again.

I like the Heavy knife whenever I can get away with it. But I've been running a 3/16" knife for the past season or so. It does pretty good up to about .625" or so. Then I really prefer the heavy. For .500" I'd prob go with the 3/16". Always replace the screws with the knife. It just isn't worth re-using them.

About your roller brackets, most 500 series easily get down to .500" on the taller brackets. Do you have a larger front roller installed?


----------



## DeepC

MasterMech said:


> DeepC said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to order a new bedknife for my 526a, I'm assuming those need changed when you have the reel sharpened? Do I need to order new bedknife screws as well? I'm also going to order shorter roller brackets. I can only go down to HOC 5/8" now. I'm going to order from R&R and I'm not sure what thickness of bedknife to get. For the 26" bedknifes they have- Thin 1/8", Thick 3/16", and Heavy. Can someone explain what size bedknife to order? I would like to maintain HOC at 1/2". Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> You don't have to change it if you are happy with the way your current one cuts. You can grind the existing knife and go again.
> 
> I like the Heavy knife whenever I can get away with it. But I've been running a 3/16" knife for the past season or so. It does pretty good up to about .625" or so. Then I really prefer the heavy. For .500" I'd prob go with the 3/16". Always replace the screws with the knife. It just isn't worth re-using them.
> 
> About your roller brackets, most 500 series easily get down to .500" on the taller brackets. Do you have a larger front roller installed?
Click to expand...

The front roller is a 2 1/4" grooved aluminum.
The roller bracket is 5 1/8 long".
I cant seam to go any lower than 5/8" Hoc




Can you confirm that these are the taller brackets and there is nothing else I can do to go lower? Without changing to the shorter brackets. Thank you so much


----------



## Brum

Started disassembling one of the more beat down mowers the other night while I wait on some engine tune up kits for the Honda's. I can't for the life of me figure out what is binding when trying to remove the belt cover. It appears that there is a sleeve on the shaft for the rollers but I'm not sure if it needs to come off. Greensking 422 model. I've removed all of the cover bolts, the two engagement levers and the wheel hub.


----------



## MasterMech

Looks like it might be the bearing from the transport hub? Stuck on the shaft..... It's going to have to come off for sure in order to remove the belt cover.


----------



## MasterMech

Looks like it might be the bearing from the transport hub? Stuck on the shaft..... It's going to have to come off for sure in order to remove the belt cover.


----------



## Brum

Well I can see a sealed bearing that is sitting down in the belt cover. It has to be a shaft sleeve and based on the schematics looks like a woodruff key.

I put some PB blaster on it a couple days ago and some heat. I'll ask our machine shop guys at work about a technique. I can't exactly grab the sleeve with vice grips and wail on it. Thanks!

Edit : Looking at the schematic again. it appears to be PN 54 (clutch sleeve) that is seized on the shaft. This should be fun...


----------



## MasterMech

Brum said:


> Well I can see a sealed bearing that is sitting down in the belt cover. It has to be a shaft sleeve and based on the schematics looks like a woodruff key.
> 
> I put some PB blaster on it a couple days ago and some heat. I'll ask our machine shop guys at work about a technique. I can't exactly grab the sleeve with vice grips and wail on it. Thanks!
> 
> Edit : Looking at the schematic again. it appears to be PN 54 (clutch sleeve) that is seized on the shaft. This should be fun...


I'm going to guess that it's packed with rust and dirt as is the case with so many of these units. I'm with you, I would have tried heating it and maybe getting a prybar or, ideally, a bearing separator behind it to push it off the shaft. When using this technique, the faster you can heat it the better it works, ie: An oxyfuel torch with a rosebud tip is going to increase chances of success over a standard plumber's torch. I realize that not everybody is going to have that equipment lying around but if you are at least aware of these techniques, inspiration has a tendency to strike.


----------



## tblood

I have a question for you guys. I bought a GPlex III last fall. It needs a little work, but it runs and cuts. About a month after I bought it, my wife decided that she wanted a pool. Now I have not very much grass left in the back yard. Surely not enough to need the GPlex. If I post some pics, would anybody be interested in buying/trading for it?


----------



## Colinwjholding

Question here.

Been using my pgm 22 for about 2 years now. It has worked perfectly for that time period until today.

With everything engaged the motor shaft spins but the shaft after the clutch does not.

Sometimes it will spin but barely. I am guessing there is an adjustment i can do? I separated the clutch and there looks to be lots of disc left.

Any help will be appreciated thanks.


----------



## MasterMech

Colinwjholding said:


> Question here.
> 
> Been using my pgm 22 for about 2 years now. It has worked perfectly for that time period until today.
> 
> With everything engaged the motor shaft spins but the shaft after the clutch does not.
> 
> Sometimes it will spin but barely. I am guessing there is an adjustment i can do? I separated the clutch and there looks to be lots of disc left.
> 
> Any help will be appreciated thanks.


Jacobsen still offers all of the technical manuals for these mowers right off their website. Make sure you get the one for your specific mower model.

If this has gradually become a problem, I'd suspect the clutch adjustment. If it just came out of nowhere, most likely a control (cable?) issue.


----------



## Colinwjholding

MasterMech said:


> Colinwjholding said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question here.
> 
> Been using my pgm 22 for about 2 years now. It has worked perfectly for that time period until today.
> 
> With everything engaged the motor shaft spins but the shaft after the clutch does not.
> 
> Sometimes it will spin but barely. I am guessing there is an adjustment i can do? I separated the clutch and there looks to be lots of disc left.
> 
> Any help will be appreciated thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jacobsen still offers all of the technical manuals for these mowers right off their website. Make sure you get the one for your specific mower model.
> 
> If this has gradually become a problem, I'd suspect the clutch adjustment. If it just came out of nowhere, most likely a control (cable?) issue.
Click to expand...

This is an older unit no cables just the lever.


----------



## Johnl445

Hey guys, I need to spray some parts on my Jacobsen greens king 526 2016 model what is the best spray paint to buy for this?


----------



## MasterMech

Johnl445 said:


> Hey guys, I need to spray some parts on my Jacobsen greens king 526 2016 model what is the best spray paint to buy for this?


https://www.rrproducts.com/Industrial-Enamel-Paint-~%7C%7CJacobsen-Orange-product53975?k=JAcobsen%20Orange

If I remember correctly, Kubota Orange II (the more recent version, not the classic) is a very close match as well.


----------



## Johnl445

MasterMech said:


> Johnl445 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys, I need to spray some parts on my Jacobsen greens king 526 2016 model what is the best spray paint to buy for this?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.rrproducts.com/Industrial-Enamel-Paint-~%7C%7CJacobsen-Orange-product53975?k=JAcobsen%20Orange
> 
> If I remember correctly, Kubota Orange II (the more recent version, not the classic) is a very close match as well.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks pal


----------



## GSJake

Colinwjholding said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Colinwjholding said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question here.
> 
> Been using my pgm 22 for about 2 years now. It has worked perfectly for that time period until today.
> 
> With everything engaged the motor shaft spins but the shaft after the clutch does not.
> 
> Sometimes it will spin but barely. I am guessing there is an adjustment i can do? I separated the clutch and there looks to be lots of disc left.
> 
> Any help will be appreciated thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Jacobsen still offers all of the technical manuals for these mowers right off their website. Make sure you get the one for your specific mower model.
> 
> If this has gradually become a problem, I'd suspect the clutch adjustment. If it just came out of nowhere, most likely a control (cable?) issue.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is an older unit no cables just the lever.
Click to expand...

Check your reel to bedknife clearance. If too tight the reel will have trouble spinning up from a stop. If you had debris run through the reel, it could move the bedknife shoe, suddenly changing the clearance (bedknife shoe has pivot points and springs to allow it to move if something solid passes through the reel.)


----------



## MasterMech

GSJake said:


> Colinwjholding said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> Jacobsen still offers all of the technical manuals for these mowers right off their website. Make sure you get the one for your specific mower model.
> 
> If this has gradually become a problem, I'd suspect the clutch adjustment. If it just came out of nowhere, most likely a control (cable?) issue.
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older unit no cables just the lever.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Check your reel to bedknife clearance. If too tight the reel will have trouble spinning up from a stop. If you had debris run through the reel, it could move the bedknife shoe, suddenly changing the clearance (bedknife shoe has pivot points and springs to allow it to move if something solid passes through the reel.)
Click to expand...

Good point on checking reel clearance. Whenever I have mine apart, I like to make sure the shoe is pivoting freely on the bushings and not sticking or binding. I'll typically replace the bushings if there is any doubt as to their condition as they are cheap and easy to do.


----------



## Colinwjholding

MasterMech said:


> GSJake said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Colinwjholding said:
> 
> 
> 
> This is an older unit no cables just the lever.
> 
> 
> 
> Check your reel to bedknife clearance. If too tight the reel will have trouble spinning up from a stop. If you had debris run through the reel, it could move the bedknife shoe, suddenly changing the clearance (bedknife shoe has pivot points and springs to allow it to move if something solid passes through the reel.)
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Good point on checking reel clearance. Whenever I have mine apart, I like to make sure the shoe is pivoting freely on the bushings and not sticking or binding. I'll typically replace the bushings if there is any doubt as to their condition as they are cheap and easy to do.
Click to expand...

I adjusted the clutch and it has been working great. I had never adjusted it after two years of use.


----------



## anthonybilotta

About to replace the reel on my Jacobsen pgm22.

Does anyone have a how to or manual for replacement ? Any advice is appreciated !


----------



## MasterMech

If you have your model number, Jacobsen has all the tech manuals up for download on their site.


----------



## gutowscr471

just replaced 15 blade with 9 blade on Eclipse 2 122F. Everything back together as expected, but now getting a reel motor controller fault screen error and beeping. I try to backlap and continue to get that error even though the reel spins backwards a few time in between pauses. Any ideas. I was extremely careful with every part, no idea what could be going on. Through the beeping, I was able to set the blade count to 9, but that did noting.


----------



## MasterMech

gutowscr471 said:


> just replaced 15 blade with 9 blade on Eclipse 2 122F. Everything back together as expected, but now getting a reel motor controller fault screen error and beeping. I try to backlap and continue to get that error even though the reel spins backwards a few time in between pauses. Any ideas. I was extremely careful with every part, no idea what could be going on.


Reel to knife too tight?


----------



## gutowscr471

MasterMech said:


> gutowscr471 said:
> 
> 
> 
> just replaced 15 blade with 9 blade on Eclipse 2 122F. Everything back together as expected, but now getting a reel motor controller fault screen error and beeping. I try to backlap and continue to get that error even though the reel spins backwards a few time in between pauses. Any ideas. I was extremely careful with every part, no idea what could be going on.
> 
> 
> 
> Reel to knife too tight?
Click to expand...

@MasterMech 
Nope spins freely. It starts/stops on backlap and forward with fault,. Even took the electric motor off the reel and had it on the ground next to it. Still had fault and when put in backlap it would start/stop every so many seconds and do a few revolutions. Just reattached motor again and I just re-attached all cables again, making Sure they were right, same issue. Says it could be a ground fault also. All I did was change the reel out. I also backed off then reel spring tension another half turn. Any more it will have to much play. Any other ideas?

Update: Since the error starts right away on startup , I decided to see what happens with the reel motor harness disconnected completely on startup. Same issue so it must be upstream at controller and above.

Here is a video in backlap mode.: https://youtube.com/shorts/KWGq0HvHuy8?feature=share


----------



## MasterMech

I wish I had more experience with the electric machines.


----------



## M311att

@gutowscr471 have you reset the controller to factory settings then change blade count? Also do you have the harness ground that attaches to the cutting unit?


----------



## IowaJoe

Hi all, new to the reel mowing experience this spring and had a couple questions. I picked up this Greens Mower (around 2000/01 according to Jacobsen) from a course I WI and I love it so far, but I am getting stragglers here and there. Reel and bedknife are in good adjustment as well. Jacobsen suggested I try a slower walking speed when mowing. HOC is 7/8" and the reel is a 9 blade. I have seen this issue with other reel mower users on youtube, etc. Would a groomer help this issue or is this just the way it goes? I have also seen brush reels in place of a groomer reel. Anyone have experience with a groomer on a older PGM or Greens Mower like this? Thanks!


----------



## gutowscr471

M311att said:


> @gutowscr471 have you reset the controller to factory settings then change blade count? Also do you have the harness ground that attaches to the cutting unit?


@MasterMech 
I reset the blade count, even did firmware reset and then reset blade count again. Can you take a picture of the harness ground or circle it. I have the ground or metal that bolts to the reel motor within the cable, seems to mainly hold the cables in place there. I think you're talking about something else that I don't see or recall disconnecting when I took the cutting unit off. I believe it was only two connectors I removed (two connecting the reel electric motor).


----------



## MasterMech

IowaJoe said:


> Hi all, new to the reel mowing experience this spring and had a couple questions. I picked up this Greens Mower (around 2000/01 according to Jacobsen) from a course I WI and I love it so far, but I am getting stragglers here and there. Reel and bedknife are in good adjustment as well. Jacobsen suggested I try a slower walking speed when mowing. HOC is 7/8" and the reel is a 9 blade. I have seen this issue with other reel mower users on youtube, etc. Would a groomer help this issue or is this just the way it goes? I have also seen brush reels in place of a groomer reel. Anyone have experience with a groomer on a older PGM or Greens Mower like this? Thanks!


What bedknife is on it? Swapping for a heavy section knife would likely do the most good for a PGM at 7/8". If you have a "high cut" knife on it now, lowering the HoC will actually improve the cut quality. A groomer will not help IMO and really is likely to just be ballast until you get below .250" on cool-season grass.

503460 should work for a PGM22 (Heavy or Fairway Knife) I've not tried it personally, but the knife will bolt to the bedshoe just fine. The concern would be if there's enough adjustment to fit the higher-profile knife and maintain adequate reel-to-bedknife clearance. I think the geometry of the PGM and my GK500 series machines is very similar and so my degree of confidence is very high. There is a "medium section" knife that would be better than a High Profile, but not as good as a Heavy.

503477 is the part number for a High Profile knife which is likely what you have on it currently. It should be stamped somewhere on the bottom of the bedknife. An HP knife is much happier cutting at .200-600".


----------



## MasterMech

gutowscr471 said:


> M311att said:
> 
> 
> 
> @gutowscr471 have you reset the controller to factory settings then change blade count? Also do you have the harness ground that attaches to the cutting unit?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @MasterMech
> I reset the blade count, even did firmware reset and then reset blade count again. Can you take a picture of the harness ground or circle it. I have the ground or metal that bolts to the reel motor within the cable, seems to mainly hold the cables in place there. I think you're talking about something else that I don't see or recall disconnecting when I took the cutting unit off. I believe it was only two connectors I removed (two connecting the reel electric motor).
Click to expand...

I don't have an Eclipse unit to use for a photo unfortunately.


----------



## gutowscr471

MasterMech said:


> gutowscr471 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> M311att said:
> 
> 
> 
> @gutowscr471 have you reset the controller to factory settings then change blade count? Also do you have the harness ground that attaches to the cutting unit?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @MasterMech
> I reset the blade count, even did firmware reset and then reset blade count again. Can you take a picture of the harness ground or circle it. I have the ground or metal that bolts to the reel motor within the cable, seems to mainly hold the cables in place there. I think you're talking about something else that I don't see or recall disconnecting when I took the cutting unit off. I believe it was only two connectors I removed (two connecting the reel electric motor).
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I don't have an Eclipse unit to use for a photo unfortunately.
Click to expand...

Does anyone else have a Eclipse 2 122f? Can you see if there are only two wires (from electric reel motor) to the rest of the wire harness or are there more wires going to the cutting unit.


----------



## TheSlowOne

Off of the reel motor I have this 4pin and 6pin group of wires. 

It plugs into these connectors that go straight into the reel control unit. 

Mind you, my reel motor doesn't work so I don't know if I'm missing anything lol.


----------



## gutowscr471

@TheSlowOne 
I have the same connectors. I get the reel controller error/ground error right away on startup, even when with the reel motor (both connectors) disconnected. Going to do one more test (reel motor test) where you connect the reel motor to the drive motor connectors and see if it works just to rule out the motor itself. Think I need to go higher in the mower to find the issue. If it is the reel controller, anyone have a lead on where to buy one? This was working perfectly fine until I removed the the reel motor and replaced the reel and bearings on the cutting unit.


----------



## TheSlowOne

@gutowscr471 Let me know how that test goes... I've been meaning to test my reel motor that way, I just didn't want to move the engine and mounting plate to do it. The only place you can get the control box is through Jacobsen, I haven't seen any pop up on ebay lately.


----------



## gutowscr471

TheSlowOne said:


> @gutowscr471 Let me know how that test goes... I've been meaning to test my reel motor that way, I just didn't want to move the engine and mounting plate to do it. The only place you can get the control box is through Jacobsen, I haven't seen any pop up on ebay lately.


@TheSlowOne @MasterMech 
Well, I took everything apart, except motor mount to swap motor connections (tomorrow task). I checked every connection/pin to make sure wasn't getting a ground short with multimeter. So far so good on every damn pin 
Tests after checking all pins and resistors with multi meter
1. Disconnected both traction motor control unit and reel motor control unit - Both errored as expected immediately on startup.
2. Reconnected both and only reel motor control unit errors as it has been. Again this is immediate at startup.
3. Used multimeter to test pins from MCU to RCU and TCU. All resistance values matched and the correct one had the ground.
4. Put everything back together to see if anything changed and nothing. Going in backlap mode, reel stops and starts and in cutting mode, reel stops and starts (again with constant beeping about reel control unit). Will eventually throw the reel motor error icon on the screen in addition to reel control unit error icon.

Here is a video of doing backlap mode. The reel is not tight, can turn with my pinkie finger nail. Any ideas welcome.


----------



## TheSlowOne

I wish I could be of more use. I don't have much more experience with the eclipse units than you. Since the motor spins I'd be more inclined to say that it could be the control unit ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


----------



## gutowscr471

TheSlowOne said:


> I wish I could be of more use. I don't have much more experience with the eclipse units than you. Since the motor spins I'd be more inclined to say that it could be the control unit ¯\_(ツ)_/¯


@TheSlowOne 
I did the Reel motor test and reel motor worked fine. Looking for a controller now as that must be the problem. Wow that reel spun fast and it was weird with my son using the traction speed control to adjust the reel speed. Anyway, next step is to find a controller. Will report back.


----------



## IowaJoe

MasterMech said:


> IowaJoe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all, new to the reel mowing experience this spring and had a couple questions. I picked up this Greens Mower (around 2000/01 according to Jacobsen) from a course I WI and I love it so far, but I am getting stragglers here and there. Reel and bedknife are in good adjustment as well. Jacobsen suggested I try a slower walking speed when mowing. HOC is 7/8" and the reel is a 9 blade. I have seen this issue with other reel mower users on youtube, etc. Would a groomer help this issue or is this just the way it goes? I have also seen brush reels in place of a groomer reel. Anyone have experience with a groomer on a older PGM or Greens Mower like this? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What bedknife is on it? Swapping for a heavy section knife would likely do the most good for a PGM at 7/8". If you have a "high cut" knife on it now, lowering the HoC will actually improve the cut quality. A groomer will not help IMO and really is likely to just be ballast until you get below .250" on cool-season grass.
> 
> 503460 should work for a PGM22 (Heavy or Fairway Knife) I've not tried it personally, but the knife will bolt to the bedshoe just fine. The concern would be if there's enough adjustment to fit the higher-profile knife and maintain adequate reel-to-bedknife clearance. I think the geometry of the PGM and my GK500 series machines is very similar and so my degree of confidence is very high. There is a "medium section" knife that would be better than a High Profile, but not as good as a Heavy.
> 
> 503477 is the part number for a High Profile knife which is likely what you have on it currently. It should be stamped somewhere on the bottom of the bedknife. An HP knife is much happier cutting at .200-600".
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks for the info. So at 7/8" a 'heavy' bedknife would be best. What would the next shorter bedknife be on the HOC progression and what HOC would you swap at? Would like to get a little lower than 7/8 by the end of the season but probably not much shorter than .75".

Also, I ended up grabbing the gear drive kit for a groomer reel, but still need a groomer reel and a 1/4" spaced front roller to match. As I was looking at the parts and the adjustment arc on the gearbox I realized I'm cutting higher than my machine was designed for. At 7/8 HOC I'm wondering if I have enough adjustment. Anyone know what the max HOC is to still have a groomer hit turf?


----------



## IowaJoe

Another question I need some help with....how do you backlap a PGM/Greens Mower? There are some reel axle caps on both sides. Right side just looks like a axle nut and I can't figure out how to remove the left axle cover that sits flush.

I brought my HOC down to 3/4" last night; lawn looks great but this height was apparently just low enough to catch my city water shutoff pipe cap. Bent one of my blades pretty bad. After trying to knock it back in I ended up filing it back to clear the bedknife. My file job wasn't perfect though and the cut is pretty rough now, barley tearing paper on a few inches with the rest of the reel cutting cleanly.


----------



## Ngilbe36

Does anyone have any opinion on the following listing? Cost is $300. Seller says it starts easily but I haven't gotten much else from them.
I'm not afraid of a project.


----------



## MasterMech

IowaJoe said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IowaJoe said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all, new to the reel mowing experience this spring and had a couple questions. I picked up this Greens Mower (around 2000/01 according to Jacobsen) from a course I WI and I love it so far, but I am getting stragglers here and there. Reel and bedknife are in good adjustment as well. Jacobsen suggested I try a slower walking speed when mowing. HOC is 7/8" and the reel is a 9 blade. I have seen this issue with other reel mower users on youtube, etc. Would a groomer help this issue or is this just the way it goes? I have also seen brush reels in place of a groomer reel. Anyone have experience with a groomer on a older PGM or Greens Mower like this? Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What bedknife is on it? Swapping for a heavy section knife would likely do the most good for a PGM at 7/8". If you have a "high cut" knife on it now, lowering the HoC will actually improve the cut quality. A groomer will not help IMO and really is likely to just be ballast until you get below .250" on cool-season grass.
> 
> 503460 should work for a PGM22 (Heavy or Fairway Knife) I've not tried it personally, but the knife will bolt to the bedshoe just fine. The concern would be if there's enough adjustment to fit the higher-profile knife and maintain adequate reel-to-bedknife clearance. I think the geometry of the PGM and my GK500 series machines is very similar and so my degree of confidence is very high. There is a "medium section" knife that would be better than a High Profile, but not as good as a Heavy.
> 
> 503477 is the part number for a High Profile knife which is likely what you have on it currently. It should be stamped somewhere on the bottom of the bedknife. An HP knife is much happier cutting at .200-600".
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ok, thanks for the info. So at 7/8" a 'heavy' bedknife would be best. What would the next shorter bedknife be on the HOC progression and what HOC would you swap at? Would like to get a little lower than 7/8 by the end of the season but probably not much shorter than .75".
> 
> Also, I ended up grabbing the gear drive kit for a groomer reel, but still need a groomer reel and a 1/4" spaced front roller to match. As I was looking at the parts and the adjustment arc on the gearbox I realized I'm cutting higher than my machine was designed for. At 7/8 HOC I'm wondering if I have enough adjustment. Anyone know what the max HOC is to still have a groomer hit turf?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't move away from a heavy knife until you want to cut at less than .500" on the regular. Then I'd move to the "High Cut" (503477) knife as it will do fine for .200" through .625".

As far as a groomer goes, I prob wouldn't invest in the specific front roller and other hardware you need to run a groomer unless you want to cut at less than .500". With a groomer mounted, I think you are limited to .438" anyways.

For the cost, you can buy a heavily used GK522 and convert it to a verticut/groomer unit like some nutjob did in this thread. :bd:

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=14983


----------



## MasterMech

Ngilbe36 said:


> Does anyone have any opinion on the following listing? Cost is $300. Seller says it starts easily but I haven't gotten much else from them.
> I'm not afraid of a project.


Tree-hundy for a fairly clean PGM 22? I don't think you'd get hurt with that. Dimpled traction roller is desirable for use on a home lawn too. I much prefer the loop handle style but T-Handles are just fine. This unit does not have In-Command controls so just be aware that when you drop the clutch in, you're off and it will not stop unless you disengage the clutch. Practice those turns!


----------



## Ngilbe36

MasterMech said:


> Ngilbe36 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have any opinion on the following listing? Cost is $300. Seller says it starts easily but I haven't gotten much else from them.
> I'm not afraid of a project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tree-hundy for a fairly clean PGM 22? I don't think you'd get hurt with that. Dimpled traction roller is desirable for use on a home lawn too. I much prefer the loop handle style but T-Handles are just fine. This unit does not have In-Command controls so just be aware that when you drop the clutch in, you're off and it will not stop unless you disengage the clutch. Practice those turns!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the feedback. The seller also told me that it is currently away being ground. So I am definitely going to jump on it.


----------



## gutowscr471

gutowscr471 said:


> TheSlowOne said:
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I could be of more use. I don't have much more experience with the eclipse units than you. Since the motor spins I'd be more inclined to say that it could be the control unit ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
> 
> 
> 
> @TheSlowOne
> I did the Reel motor test and reel motor worked fine. Looking for a controller now as that must be the problem. Wow that reel spun fast and it was weird with my son using the traction speed control to adjust the reel speed. Anyway, next step is to find a controller. Will report back.
Click to expand...

All fixed. Found a good deal on a reel controller. 9 blade is awesome on the Eclipse 2 122F. Cutting at .4" and have thick bedknife.


----------



## TheSlowOne

@gutowscr471 That's good news!!! I'm glad everything is working out!


----------



## Jmoore3105

So I need some suggestions from those that have a lot more experience with reels. I just picked up a 2000'ish PGM 19 last week. This is my first reel mower so I'm still learning. I'm having a problem with clutch engagement, I've downloaded the manual for the PGM 19 from Jacobsen's site and measured the spring lengths and clutch finger gap to the best of my ability according to the manual, but I could still have it wrong. 
This is what its doing,
1. When I go to engage the OPC lever either the mower doesn't do anything requiring a slight nudge forward or pull back to get it to go forward. When this happens I can hear a metallic click. It drives forward until I release the OPC lever.
OR
2. I engage the OPC lever and it engages like nothings wrong.

3. Today I was mowing the front yard and the mower wouldn't disengage after I released the OPC lever requiring me to throttle down and turn the mower off. Once I let it sit for a minute and turned it back on the clutch wasn't engaged and allowed my to finish. It stuck again causing me to turn the mower off to keep from running the curbing over 

So now the clutch is periodically sticking and I'm not sure if my adjustments are still off or if its something else. I'm not sure how old this mower is but i'm sure the clutch plates are pretty worn. I've read through this thread but most people where already doing a total tear down. This mower runs great and cuts great when I'm not having these issues. Here's the model number on the plate if anyone wants to know Model #62279-1762

Thanks in advance for any advise or suggestions.


----------



## effektz

Hello all, I just picked up my first reel mower a Jacobsen Greens Mower 22 today (model 62239) and was wondering what to make of the gas situation. On the mower it says to use gas mixed with Jacobsen oil and in the manual it says use 50:1 ratio (2 stroke engine). Does anyone have experience with an older Jacobsen?


----------



## MasterMech

effektz said:


> Hello all, I just picked up my first reel mower a Jacobsen Greens Mower 22 today (model 62239) and was wondering what to make of the gas situation. On the mower it says to use gas mixed with Jacobsen oil and in the manual it says use 50:1 ratio (2 stroke engine). Does anyone have experience with an older Jacobsen?


Any modern high-quality two-stroke mix oil for air-cooled engines will run fine in that engine. The same fuel that you run in you weedeater, chainsaw, edger, etc. will be fine.

You can of course mix your own with fuel from the gas station or buy fuel already mixed at any power equipment dealers or stores like Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, Tractor Supply, Rural King, etc.

Enjoy, that's a pretty nice unit, not many of the old two-strokes around anymore and it's on a mower that looks to be in very good shape!


----------



## effektz

MasterMech said:


> effektz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello all, I just picked up my first reel mower a Jacobsen Greens Mower 22 today (model 62239) and was wondering what to make of the gas situation. On the mower it says to use gas mixed with Jacobsen oil and in the manual it says use 50:1 ratio (2 stroke engine). Does anyone have experience with an older Jacobsen?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any modern high-quality two-stroke mix oil for air-cooled engines will run fine in that engine. The same fuel that you run in you weedeater, chainsaw, edger, etc. will be fine.
> 
> You can of course mix your own with fuel from the gas station or buy fuel already mixed at any power equipment dealers or stores like Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, Tractor Supply, Rural King, etc.
> 
> Enjoy, that's a pretty nice unit, not many of the old two-strokes around anymore and it's on a mower that looks to be in very good shape!
Click to expand...

Thank you! If I read correctly from the manual online, it appears this can only go as high as 7/16 for HOC which if true, means my lawn is not ready for that yet (too uneven). So in the meantime I plan to refurbish this guy a bit…some new paint, decals, and a tune up. Do you have any idea what year this possibly could be from? There is not much information out there for the 62239 model. I emailed Jacobsen to see if they have the manual for the engine as that's non existent anywhere. Best thing I could find was a service guide from a closed Jacobsen shop in MA. They wanted 150 for the manual though, more than what I paid for the mower!


----------



## MasterMech

effektz said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> effektz said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello all, I just picked up my first reel mower a Jacobsen Greens Mower 22 today (model 62239) and was wondering what to make of the gas situation. On the mower it says to use gas mixed with Jacobsen oil and in the manual it says use 50:1 ratio (2 stroke engine). Does anyone have experience with an older Jacobsen?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any modern high-quality two-stroke mix oil for air-cooled engines will run fine in that engine. The same fuel that you run in you weedeater, chainsaw, edger, etc. will be fine.
> 
> You can of course mix your own with fuel from the gas station or buy fuel already mixed at any power equipment dealers or stores like Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, Tractor Supply, Rural King, etc.
> 
> Enjoy, that's a pretty nice unit, not many of the old two-strokes around anymore and it's on a mower that looks to be in very good shape!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thank you! If I read correctly from the manual online, it appears this can only go as high as 7/16 for HOC which if true, means my lawn is not ready for that yet (too uneven). So in the meantime I plan to refurbish this guy a bit…some new paint, decals, and a tune up. Do you have any idea what year this possibly could be from? There is not much information out there for the 62239 model. I emailed Jacobsen to see if they have the manual for the engine as that's non existent anywhere. Best thing I could find was a service guide from a closed Jacobsen shop in MA. They wanted 150 for the manual though, more than what I paid for the mower!
Click to expand...

I have a feeling you may have found these already, but JIC:

https://www.jacobsen.com/owners/product-parts-and-manuals

Search "Greens Mower" and the manuals are available as PDFs.

The engine should be known as the Fuji/Robin/Subaru EC10 series. Paper Manuals are pretty hard to come by. But some parts are still available.

I'd positively verify that it is indeed an EC10 if you can.

I found the EC series mis-categorized under the EH series here:

https://subarupower.com/products/manuals/#engines

Generic Parts Manual:
https://subarupower.com/media/manuals/128902598637130000.pdf

For a service manual, you may check out the same site, the EC10 doesn't have one specifically but I'd read through the one they list for the EC12 and see if it can't walk you through any trouble spots.

https://subarupower.com/media/manuals/129279152374005000.pdf

Check out Jack's for available parts.

https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/robin/engine/ec/ec10/cooling-starting

Regarding the HoC - These use the same brackets as the PGM series, so you should be able use the 163232 and 163231 brackets to jack up the front end. 503460 would be your heavy fairway knife for heights over 7/16". 2500575 would be the 9-blade reel if it's not already so equipped.


----------



## effektz

MasterMech said:


> I have a feeling you may have found these already, but JIC:
> 
> https://www.jacobsen.com/owners/product-parts-and-manuals
> 
> Search "Greens Mower" and the manuals are available as PDFs.
> 
> The engine should be known as the Fuji/Robin/Subaru EC10 series. Paper Manuals are pretty hard to come by. But some parts are still available.
> 
> I'd positively verify that it is indeed an EC10 if you can.
> 
> I found the EC series mis-categorized under the EH series here:
> 
> https://subarupower.com/products/manuals/#engines
> 
> Generic Parts Manual:
> https://subarupower.com/media/manuals/128902598637130000.pdf
> 
> For a service manual, you may check out the same site, the EC10 doesn't have one specifically but I'd read through the one they list for the EC12 and see if it can't walk you through any trouble spots.
> 
> https://subarupower.com/media/manuals/129279152374005000.pdf
> 
> Check out Jack's for available parts.
> 
> https://www.jackssmallengines.com/jacks-parts-lookup/manufacturer/robin/engine/ec/ec10/cooling-starting
> 
> Regarding the HoC - These use the same brackets as the PGM series, so you should be able use the 163232 and 163231 brackets to jack up the front end. 503460 would be your heavy fairway knife for heights over 7/16". 2500575 would be the 9-blade reel if it's not already so equipped.


Thank you so much! This helps a TON! I did confirm it the engine is a EC10D by the production plate on the engine. I didnt realize that it was the same brackets as the PGM series so Ill order those from R&R and also the bedknife. The reel is a 9 blade already so Im all good there. Thank you again for all the links, it really helps me out!!


----------



## effektz

So I'm having an issue getting this motor to start. I've replaced the spark plug and plug boot (it was damaged ) thinking it was something wrong with getting a spark. I searched online and followed the procedure in case it was flooded by removing the plug and cranking over the engine 8-10 times. I reinstalled the plug and when I go to try to start it turns over for a second or two and then dies. Any subsequent pulls I cannot get it to even begin to start. I have to remove the plug and do that all over again to get it to start for a second. I am not sure at this point what to check next? This is my first time dealing with a 2 stroke and it's driving me insane.

Any suggestions are appreciated!


----------



## Kallgren

You will want to check that there is sufficient fuel getting into the engine (i.e. the carb isn't all gummed up). 
You will want to check that there is sufficient air getting to the engine (i.e. the air filter isn't clogged)
You will want to check that there is a strong spark (check on you tube, there will surely be videos shorting a screw driver to the engine and arcing the spark to the screw driver - do this indoors or in the shade and don't zap yourself). You can use a fine file or emery cloth to clean the spark plug gap, but also clean the threads on the plug and combustion chamber itself. Finally, remove and clean all other electrical connections, they would have oxidized over the years. I wrap a emery cloth around a chop stick to get inside the boot.
You will want to check that the exhaust is not clogged (i.e. did a mouse build a nest in the muffler).

Those are my suggestions.


----------



## MasterMech

effektz said:


> So I'm having an issue getting this motor to start. I've replaced the spark plug and plug boot (it was damaged ) thinking it was something wrong with getting a spark. I searched online and followed the procedure in case it was flooded by removing the plug and cranking over the engine 8-10 times. I reinstalled the plug and when I go to try to start it turns over for a second or two and then dies. Any subsequent pulls I cannot get it to even begin to start. I have to remove the plug and do that all over again to get it to start for a second. I am not sure at this point what to check next? This is my first time dealing with a 2 stroke and it's driving me insane.
> 
> Any suggestions are appreciated!


Sounds like the choke is on and that is flooding the engine? Typical two-stroke starting procedure is:

1.) Choke Closed/On
2.) Crank Engine until first pop/fire/burble
3.) Choke Open/Off (if you're quick you may get to skip step 4...)
4.) Crank until engine starts. (usually 1 or 2 pulls)

If the engine has not started at this point, ensure the choke is open, advance the throttle to full, crank the engine to clear it. (8-10 pulls) It is likely to start at some point during this clearing procedure.

The key is to not continue cranking the engine with the choke closed after that first pop.

Any procedure in the operator's manual supersedes the above.


----------



## Jack2012

Wondering what this could mean. When using my 522A the clutch/drive engages quickly with no issues. After approx 15-20mins of use the drive/clutch engages very slowly like it is slipping? No unusual noises etc but sometimes smell a burning smell.


----------



## socerplaye

@MasterMech

So I'm finally getting around to cutting with the 526a that I bought a couple of years ago and have been working on getting to cut paper. My brother used it for the last few seasons and had it serviced by a shop each time. I've not done that this season as I'm trying to become more familiar with the unit and it's been cutting ok, but not perfect. Height adjustment has been fine but the bedknife to reel adjustment seems to be an issue. I'm trying to do small turns on each side to get to cutting paper, but I cracked the bedknife adjusting block. Easy enough to order a new one and replace myself? Should I order a new bedknife as well? Safe to cut until I fix it?

The bedknife adjustment, maintenance, etc. is where I'm really having a hard time. I've tried adjusting and it seems like my cut has gotten worse and uneven.


----------



## MasterMech

@socerplaye it looks like that crack is on the spring tension side of the adjuster. I'd use a worm clamp (aka hose clamp) to booger-jack that adjuster together until your new one gets here.

Even though yours does look pretty good, Yes on ordering a new knife (and screws!), backlap the snot outta the reel before you change it though. Then a light backlap with the new knife and you should be as good as you're going to get short of grinding.

Use a strip of paper as a feeler guage to get both sides of the knife set to where the reel just barely tugs on the paper. Then bring the knife closer in baby steps. From this point, one flat of the adjusters is the maximum you should move them in any one adjustment before you re-check trying to cut folded paper. Once it's cutting folded, you can go for cutting single sheets.


----------



## socerplaye

@MasterMech thanks for the guidance. I have the stuff and the means to backlap the reel and everything but I'm still not sure I'm doing it right. I'll get the parts ordered and send you a PM when they come in with more questions so I can make sure I'm understanding you correctly!

Billy


----------



## Kallgren

@Jmoore3105


> 1. When I go to engage the OPC lever either the mower doesn't do anything requiring a slight nudge forward or pull back to get it to go forward. When this happens I can hear a metallic click. It drives forward until I release the OPC lever.
> OR
> 2. I engage the OPC lever and it engages like nothings wrong.
> 
> 3. Today I was mowing the front yard and the mower wouldn't disengage after I released the OPC lever requiring me to throttle down and turn the mower off. Once I let it sit for a minute and turned it back on the clutch wasn't engaged and allowed my to finish. It stuck again causing me to turn the mower off to keep from running the curbing over


Your clutch engagement / disengagement issue sounds similar to problem I had with excessive wear on the engagement levers and what the Jacobsen manual refers to as a "traction clutch". You can see some pictures on page 12 of this topic on how worn they were on one of my machines. I am not sure if your setup is exactly the same as I have Greensking 522, but symptoms were the similar. Sometime when making a pass, it felt like the machine was slipping in and out of gear, so to speak, but the belts and belt tension was fine.


----------



## socerplaye

@MasterMech

I got the parts installed. Backlapped but had problems with it binding when I adjusted it close enough to single sheets. It would cut folded over so I backlapped again and then mowed. Went back and checked and had to make some more slight adjustments to the right side and now everything cuts single sheets. Thanks for the help!

Next question, seems like the right side as started squeaking when I engage the drive. I disengaged the reel and made sure it wasn't that, and it's definitely coming from the drum. I tried squirting some grease in the nipple but it didn't seem to change. Any recommendations?

Thanks again,

Billy


----------



## Jack2012

Jack2012 said:


> Wondering what this could mean. When using my 522A the clutch/drive engages quickly with no issues. After approx 15-20mins of use the drive/clutch engages very slowly like it is slipping? No unusual noises etc but sometimes smell a burning smell.


Anyone?


----------



## MasterMech

Jack2012 said:


> Jack2012 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wondering what this could mean. When using my 522A the clutch/drive engages quickly with no issues. After approx 15-20mins of use the drive/clutch engages very slowly like it is slipping? No unusual noises etc but sometimes smell a burning smell.
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone?
Click to expand...

Have you tried checking the clutch adjustment? There should be a spec for it and it's possible you're right on the edge.


----------



## MasterMech

socerplaye said:


> @MasterMech
> 
> I got the parts installed. Backlapped but had problems with it binding when I adjusted it close enough to single sheets. It would cut folded over so I backlapped again and then mowed. Went back and checked and had to make some more slight adjustments to the right side and now everything cuts single sheets. Thanks for the help!
> 
> Next question, seems like the right side as started squeaking when I engage the drive. I disengaged the reel and made sure it wasn't that, and it's definitely coming from the drum. I tried squirting some grease in the nipple but it didn't seem to change. Any recommendations?
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
> Billy


Assuming that we are talking about the right side as you stand behind the unit?

There's a hidden fitting behind the bracket for the left parking brake band. Easy to miss in the op manual too. Doesn't need to be hit every time around but if it's been neglected for years? Also, the transport hubs on these machines tend to be neglected and more often than not, allowed to rust and destroy the sprag bearings inside. Check that it's not the hub dragging on the parking brake band and squeaking a rusty needle/sprag bearing in the hub.


----------



## DR_GREENTHUMB

I knocked off my grease zerk off the groomer knob, is this just a standard zerk? Assuming I can get it out without issues, just screw it back in? I assume it'll screw in, not a press in one?

Greensking 518 I think. TIA


----------



## MasterMech

DR_GREENTHUMB said:


> I knocked off my grease zerk off the groomer knob, is this just a standard zerk? Assuming I can get it out without issues, just screw it back in? I assume it'll screw in, not a press in one?
> 
> Greensking 518 I think. TIA


I have little experience with the groomer assembly but I've yet to run across a press-in zerk on these units. Extract the remainder of the zerk with the extraction gadget of your choice. Identify the thread size, then any auto parts store should have a replacement.


----------



## DR_GREENTHUMB

MasterMech said:


> DR_GREENTHUMB said:
> 
> 
> 
> I knocked off my grease zerk off the groomer knob, is this just a standard zerk? Assuming I can get it out without issues, just screw it back in? I assume it'll screw in, not a press in one?
> 
> Greensking 518 I think. TIA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have little experience with the groomer assembly but I've yet to run across a press-in zerk on these units. Extract the remainder of the zerk with the extraction gadget of your choice. Identify the thread size, then any auto parts store should have a replacement.
Click to expand...

Didn't think about an auto part store, I will give this a shot! Thanks @MasterMech


----------



## socerplaye

So I went a step further and was attempting to get into the drums and check them. In the process of trying to take the belt cover off, I've dropped the little balls that work the disengage lever for the traction control down into the housing. Well I can't get the cover off to retrieve them because of this slot on the shaft that stops the cover from coming off.

I'm gathering that it's a woodruff key but I can't seem to get it out. Anyone with a tip to get it out?

Thanks,

Billy


----------



## MasterMech

socerplaye said:


> So I went a step further and was attempting to get into the drums and check them. In the process of trying to take the belt cover off, I've dropped the little balls that work the disengage lever for the traction control down into the housing. Well I can't get the cover off to retrieve them because of this slot on the shaft that stops the cover from coming off.
> 
> I'm gathering that it's a woodruff key but I can't seem to get it out. Anyone with a tip to get it out?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Billy


If it's a woodruff key that's stuck in the shaft, just use a hammer/chisel to extract it and plan on replacing it. Cheap and available at any hardware store.


----------



## Johnl445

I've got a 526a, do the make a verti cutter to stand up the grass before the cut. The one at R&R is $2k. https://www.rrproducts.com/Groomer-Assy-~-Fits-26-in-Units-product13329

There's got to be a better way


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

63339 - Eclipse 2 122
Good Afternoon,
The throttle on my eclipse stopped working on Saturday. I am assuming that the cable is stretched and needs to be replaced. Tracked it down to part 4256692.

Couple questions:
Is there a way to tighten it without replacing?
If not, I have the part number but cannot find a replacement part for it. Anyone have any luck finding a replacement cord for this?

I have the manual on it, I just can't figure out if I have to replace the entire wire or how that works for repair.


----------



## MasterMech

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> 63339 - Eclipse 2 122
> Good Afternoon,
> The throttle on my eclipse stopped working on Saturday. I am assuming that the cable is stretched and needs to be replaced. Tracked it down to part 4256692.
> 
> Couple questions:
> Is there a way to tighten it without replacing?
> If not, I have the part number but cannot find a replacement part for it. Anyone have any luck finding a replacement cord for this?
> 
> I have the manual on it, I just can't figure out if I have to replace the entire wire or how that works for repair.


Say hello to your throttle cable adjustment.


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Thanks @MasterMech. I started taking the bottom bolt off, but stopped to check it out further online. So, if I unscrew the top one, I will be able to tighten the slack then secure it back on?


----------



## MasterMech

MNLawnGuy1980 said:


> Thanks @MasterMech. I started taking the bottom bolt off, but stopped to check it out further online. So, if I unscrew the top one, I will be able to tighten the slack then secure it back on?


Loosen the bottom nut to make the cable assembly "longer" and remove the slack from the actual cable. Then tighten the top nut down on the new position.


----------



## MNLawnGuy1980

Thank you @MasterMech, I really appreciate it!


----------



## rothnic

Hi, I'm coming here while being on the lookout for a greens mower. I came across a listing I'm about to go check out for a Tournament Cut 22 (model 62291 *i think*). It appears to be an older mower that wasn't used much based on the condition, but the guy doesn't know much beyond that. I seem to not be able to find much about the history/feature differences across the years for Jacobsen, so I was curious if there has been any summary of the pros/cons/features of the models that have come up in this thread. I had some questions below:

1) This model has a floating head. It seems there isn't a big consensus one way or the other on floating heads for residential use from what I could find in the forums. However, it does appear like the overall mower is a bit deeper than a fixed mower. Is that the only major downside to it?

2) More importantly, from what I can tell, it seems like the Tournament Cut 22 does not have the In Control capability outlined in https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=19457, even though it appears similar. Is that correct? I'm making that assumption based on what I find in https://www.jacobsen.com/manuals/4128650_1203_0.pdf. If that is the case, would I be better off waiting for something else? Or, is it not a big deal?

From the manual, it states that if you let go of the "O.P.C. Bail" aka "Operator Presence Control", then the drive goes back into neutral. This would seem to suggest that it can't be used to slow down the mower as you get to edges. Is there any experience with this control system? Do you physically have to push the control lever back to drive if you just lift off on the OPC? See screenshot from the manual below:


----------



## MasterMech

rothnic said:


> Hi, I'm coming here while being on the lookout for a greens mower. I came across a listing I'm about to go check out for a Tournament Cut 22 (model 62291 *i think*). It appears to be an older mower that wasn't used much based on the condition, but the guy doesn't know much beyond that. I seem to not be able to find much about the history/feature differences across the years for Jacobsen, so I was curious if there has been any summary of the pros/cons/features of the models that have come up in this thread. I had some questions below:
> 
> 1) This model has a floating head. It seems there isn't a big consensus one way or the other on floating heads for residential use from what I could find in the forums. However, it does appear like the overall mower is a bit deeper than a fixed mower. Is that the only major downside to it?
> 
> 2) More importantly, from what I can tell, it seems like the Tournament Cut 22 does not have the In Control capability outlined in https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=19457, even though it appears similar. Is that correct? I'm making that assumption based on what I find in https://www.jacobsen.com/manuals/4128650_1203_0.pdf. If that is the case, would I be better off waiting for something else? Or, is it not a big deal?
> 
> From the manual, it states that if you let go of the "O.P.C. Bail" aka "Operator Presence Control", then the drive goes back into neutral. This would seem to suggest that it can't be used to slow down the mower as you get to edges. Is there any experience with this control system? Do you physically have to push the control lever back to drive if you just lift off on the OPC? See screenshot from the manual below:


The best I can tell you is that the Tournament Cut was a Baroness design that does not share many components with the PGM, GK500, or Eclipse series machines. I don't know if it was just a Baroness (LM56?) painted orange or if there were significant modifications.

Even if parts are readily available via Baroness (very little is actually available for these via Jacobsen, not even the reel...., and zilch via R&R), they are going to be relatively pricey compared to other mowers.

@Mightyquinn Do you or any of the other Baroness connoisseurs know if the Jacobsen TC22 has a direct relative in the Baroness lineup?

I know @Ware came across one (but passed) many moons ago. Not sure if he was able to dig anything up.


----------



## Ware

Yeah @MasterMech I did, but I didn't know what I was looking at at the time. I think @TulsaFan pointed it out to me years later.


----------



## MasterMech

Ware said:


> Yeah @MasterMech I did, but I didn't know what I was looking at at the time. I think @TulsaFan pointed it out to me years later.


I was just about to call in @TulsaFan too. :thumbup:

I wouldn't mind finding one in the same condition as the one you found. :nod:


----------



## Mightyquinn

@MasterMech

Yeah, I think you are right that it's just a Baroness LM101 with orange paint and the Jake handle bars on it. I think it would be difficult to find parts for it. I would call Jacobsen directly to find out for sure.


----------



## TulsaFan

It's definitely a Baroness cutting unit with Jacobsen controls.

Height of cut is very low..................... 9/64 to 25/64 in. (3.5 to 10 mm)





The bedknives for the TC22 are the same ones used on the LM56. How do I know? I bought (3) last year for $1.25 plus $19.31 in shipping from a former Baroness dealer! Then, they shipped it to the wrong address in Tulsa and the guy who received them almost threw the package away. They offered to refund the $20.56 and I told them that I was prepared to drive to the guys house to get my bedknives. I just needed his name to find his address through public records! :lol:


----------



## rothnic

@TulsaFan , do you know of a way to increase the HOC a bit? Not seeing any reference to brackets anywhere. I ended up picking it up before I saw the responses, for $300. I probably overpaid, but it isn't that much money in the end. McLanes in my area seem to bring that much.

Now, I just need to figure out if I can increase the hoc with off the shelf parts or I'll need to fabricate something.


----------



## TulsaFan

rothnic said:


> @TulsaFan , do you know of a way to increase the HOC a bit? Not seeing any reference to brackets anywhere. I ended up picking it up before I saw the responses, for $300. I probably overpaid, but it isn't that much money in the end. McLanes in my area seem to bring that much.
> 
> Now, I just need to figure out if I can increase the hoc with off the shelf parts or I'll need to fabricate something.


I would love to have one for $300. So, I think you did just fine on the price.

Honestly, 0.39" is plenty high enough! However, the Baroness LM101 does go above an inch. So, I bet you can change out some parts and possibly get some more height. I looked at both the LM101 and the Tournament Cut 22 in photos and there are lots of similar parts.

The Roller Bracket on yours and the LM101 look like this:





The LM56 roller bracket looks like this:



Measure your roller bracket...if it's shorter than the LM56 roller bracket, I can send you two used LM56 brackets. You never know...it might work or help you fabricate something???


----------



## PhxHeat

@TulsaFan 
@rothnic
@MasterMech
@Ware

I know it's not the same and might be different with the floating head: I have a regular Jacobsen GreensMower 22 that I can adjust to where the bedknife can sit on the ground, or raise it to about 1". Mine has the knobs that the height adjustment studs thread in and out of (with a closed hole, where the stud bottoms out in it). An open/through hole adjustment knob or nut should allow for an easier range of full adjustment when a longer than stock stud is used.

To start: mine has the (optional) larger diameter roller for an increased hoc.

But most of my adjustment comes from switching and/or adjusting the "front roller adjusting studs" in the mower body. My mower has enough room in the front roller adjustment arm/lever "slot" to allow for "extra" adjustment up/down if the stud lengths are changed and or repositioned in or out on the mower body.

By using a slightly longer stud I can lower the hoc (by adjusting the knob up) to where the bedknife practically sits on the ground even with the optional larger roller (although my yard is no where level enough for that).

Using that same stud, if I screw it into (through) the mower body til it's just above the adjustment arm retaining/adjustment bolt ... then I can achieve about 7/8" before the stud bottoms out in the adjustment knob. I could use a shorter stud to raise the hoc a little more, but the adjustment slot in the arm at that point doesn't have much more room. I'd say at best, I think maybe I could max the hoc out at 1-1/8" before running out of slot adjustment.

I definitely lose some cut quality above 5/8", but very little a double cut doesn't clean up. However I doubt it makes that much of a difference with my basic seeded common bermuda blend.

Hope this makes sense and possibly helps.


----------



## MasterMech

rothnic said:


> @TulsaFan , do you know of a way to increase the HOC a bit? Not seeing any reference to brackets anywhere. I ended up picking it up before I saw the responses, for $300. I probably overpaid, but it isn't that much money in the end. McLanes in my area seem to bring that much.
> 
> Now, I just need to figure out if I can increase the hoc with off the shelf parts or I'll need to fabricate something.


I'd say you got a deal at $300. If it is indeed a Baroness LM101 with Jake controls, You should be able to get the major parts for it from Baroness still as it's a current model. Maybe keep a rattle can of Jake orange on hand. :mrgreen:


----------



## rothnic

TulsaFan said:


> Measure your roller bracket...if it's shorter than the LM56 roller bracket, I can send you two used LM56 brackets. You never know...it might work or help you fabricate something???


The overall length of the brackets seems to be nearly the same ~6.25". However, the slot appears to be about 1" longer on the LM56 bracket, but I can't tell if that would actually lead to a higher cut. I think the main issue using those would be that the bracket that holds the grass catcher up wouldn't line up with the new roller position without some welding, and the extra slot length seems to be towards the lower portion of the bracket. This is something I could get some help with, and I may take you up on the offer if I run out of other options. I just wonder what the lm101 and the tc22 have different that drives the change in HOC and if that part(s) is available.

The other concept of roller size increasing the height of cut is the option I was starting to lean more towards. I could try wrapping the roller(s) with something that would offset the hoc by whatever amount I add to it. On the front roller I could 3D print a 2-part sleeve to wrap around the existing roller, but I'm also trying to think about any off-the-shelf options that would work. For example, something that resembles a really thick o-ring could slide over the roller into the grooves. I'm guessing the back roller should be increased in diameter as well to keep the angle of the bed knife from getting too steep?

I'm still working on some areas of my lawn, so I am looking to start closer towards 1" and move down more at the start of next year. If I could get to 3/4" I think I'd be fine for now. The mower itself was in much rougher condition than it was made out to be, but overall it seemed to run and operate as expected. It did have the grass catcher, but didn't have the transport wheels, which I can live without. I think the low HOC, the very rough grass, and dull blade contributed to it bogging down while cutting when I was testing it out. Going to work on a HOC solution and backlapping, then go from there.


----------



## jdupree1990

So I been reading this forum for couple years but don't post very often because I basically just soak up all the info I can. I have a palisades zoysia yard that I have been maintaining at .5" for the last two years. Just picked up a used Jacobsen 526 for $800 because I wasn't 100% happy with my Swardman cut. Mower is in really good shape and the guy I bought it from only used it twice trying to cut zoysia at 1.5". Long story short the reel and bed knife look in good shape but the bed knife to reel adjustment is way more adjusted on one side than the other if that makes any sense. I'll post pictures of the two adjustment bolts from each side. It cuts paper all along the bed knife with very little contact. I tried to adjust them to match but then one side would not cut. Is it normal to have it this far off or is maybe the tension spring worn out on one side? 
The right side is the first pic and left side is the second pic that is tighter. The book says compress the back spring to 1". But when I made my back bolts match in how far they were compressed or screwed in the reel to bed knife and cut was off and not cutting paper on the left side. Thoughts?


----------



## rothnic

Well, scratch out the plan to increase the HOC on my TC22. I tried it out at the max height on a small strip and it didn't seem that much lower than my 1" I've been using, so I went ahead and did my entire front yard. Even with a fairly dull reel and reasonably sharp bed knife it cuts great.


----------



## MasterMech

jdupree1990 said:


> So I been reading this forum for couple years but don't post very often because I basically just soak up all the info I can. I have a palisades zoysia yard that I have been maintaining at .5" for the last two years. Just picked up a used Jacobsen 526 for $800 because I wasn't 100% happy with my Swardman cut. Mower is in really good shape and the guy I bought it from only used it twice trying to cut zoysia at 1.5". Long story short the reel and bed knife look in good shape but the bed knife to reel adjustment is way more adjusted on one side than the other if that makes any sense. I'll post pictures of the two adjustment bolts from each side. It cuts paper all along the bed knife with very little contact. I tried to adjust them to match but then one side would not cut. Is it normal to have it this far off or is maybe the tension spring worn out on one side?
> The right side is the first pic and left side is the second pic that is tighter. The book says compress the back spring to 1". But when I made my back bolts match in how far they were compressed or screwed in the reel to bed knife and cut was off and not cutting paper on the left side. Thoughts?


Something is off with the machine. Maybe it's in the bed bar?

Does the machine track straight?


----------



## DeepC

@jdupree1990 
I have the same machine and it is exactly like that. I'm not saying its correct..., just the same.


----------



## Johnl445

DeepC said:


> @jdupree1990
> I have the same machine and it is exactly like that. I'm not saying its correct..., just the same.


It feels like the reel is out square. There is a good chance the reel is in a shape of a cone. When these machines come out of the factory I would have the believe that those set screws are identical from the left to the right. The only way to correct it now would be to bring it to mechanic and grind the real to a true cylinder. I would leave it alone and just adjust the bed knife to reel, so it cuts paper all the way across.


----------



## jdupree1990

MasterMech said:


> jdupree1990 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I been reading this forum for couple years but don't post very often because I basically just soak up all the info I can. I have a palisades zoysia yard that I have been maintaining at .5" for the last two years. Just picked up a used Jacobsen 526 for $800 because I wasn't 100% happy with my Swardman cut. Mower is in really good shape and the guy I bought it from only used it twice trying to cut zoysia at 1.5". Long story short the reel and bed knife look in good shape but the bed knife to reel adjustment is way more adjusted on one side than the other if that makes any sense. I'll post pictures of the two adjustment bolts from each side. It cuts paper all along the bed knife with very little contact. I tried to adjust them to match but then one side would not cut. Is it normal to have it this far off or is maybe the tension spring worn out on one side?
> The right side is the first pic and left side is the second pic that is tighter. The book says compress the back spring to 1". But when I made my back bolts match in how far they were compressed or screwed in the reel to bed knife and cut was off and not cutting paper on the left side. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something is off with the machine. Maybe it's in the bed bar?
> 
> Does the machine track straight?
Click to expand...

Yea the mower seems to track straight and the cut is amazing. I guess I'll keep using it how it is for now and pull it apart this winter. I am loving the mower.


----------



## MasterMech

jdupree1990 said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jdupree1990 said:
> 
> 
> 
> So I been reading this forum for couple years but don't post very often because I basically just soak up all the info I can. I have a palisades zoysia yard that I have been maintaining at .5" for the last two years. Just picked up a used Jacobsen 526 for $800 because I wasn't 100% happy with my Swardman cut. Mower is in really good shape and the guy I bought it from only used it twice trying to cut zoysia at 1.5". Long story short the reel and bed knife look in good shape but the bed knife to reel adjustment is way more adjusted on one side than the other if that makes any sense. I'll post pictures of the two adjustment bolts from each side. It cuts paper all along the bed knife with very little contact. I tried to adjust them to match but then one side would not cut. Is it normal to have it this far off or is maybe the tension spring worn out on one side?
> The right side is the first pic and left side is the second pic that is tighter. The book says compress the back spring to 1". But when I made my back bolts match in how far they were compressed or screwed in the reel to bed knife and cut was off and not cutting paper on the left side. Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Something is off with the machine. Maybe it's in the bed bar?
> 
> Does the machine track straight?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yea the mower seems to track straight and the cut is amazing. I guess I'll keep using it how it is for now and pull it apart this winter. I am loving the mower.
Click to expand...

If it's cutting well and tracking straight, I'd not worry too much about it. It may just be some extreme wear on the reel and/or knife. Measure reel diameter and replace/regrind the reel as necessary in the off-season. Does it have the 7 or 11 blade reel currently?


----------



## jdupree1990

MasterMech said:


> jdupree1990 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> Something is off with the machine. Maybe it's in the bed bar?
> 
> Does the machine track straight?
> 
> 
> 
> Yea the mower seems to track straight and the cut is amazing. I guess I'll keep using it how it is for now and pull it apart this winter. I am loving the mower.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If it's cutting well and tracking straight, I'd not worry too much about it. It may just be some extreme wear on the reel and/or knife. Measure reel diameter and replace/regrind the reel as necessary in the off-season. Does it have the 7 or 11 blade reel currently?
Click to expand...

It has the 7 blade.


----------



## MasterMech

jdupree1990 said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jdupree1990 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yea the mower seems to track straight and the cut is amazing. I guess I'll keep using it how it is for now and pull it apart this winter. I am loving the mower.
> 
> 
> 
> If it's cutting well and tracking straight, I'd not worry too much about it. It may just be some extreme wear on the reel and/or knife. Measure reel diameter and replace/regrind the reel as necessary in the off-season. Does it have the 7 or 11 blade reel currently?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> It has the 7 blade.
Click to expand...

That is usually the best option for home use.


----------



## rothnic

I ended up getting some 80 and 120 grit backlapping paste, but after a fair bit of that it still isn't very sharp. It seems like the reel is just too dull, so I'm going to look around to see who can sharpen it. It might need a new bedknife as well, but I'm guessing the only place to buy the part is from baroness?

I also went ahead and tried increasing the size of my TC22's front roller by designing a pair of pieces to fit in the grooves to increase the outer diameter. I'm in the process of printing the rest out in PETG, but the larger size in the picture increases the HOC to right at 1". After printing them out, I'll epoxy each of the two pieces to each other. I think I'll just be able to break them off if I need to remove or change them down the road.


----------



## Imtriguy2010

I know there are many PGM 22's out there but does anyone have a PGM 19? The reason I ask is I actually do and would love to know where I could possibly find a grass catcher.


----------



## MasterMech

Imtriguy2010 said:


> I know there are many PGM 22's out there but does anyone have a PGM 19? The reason I ask is I actually do and would love to know where I could possibly find a grass catcher.


Available new from RRProducts.com for $167.00 + Frt. Count on it being about $200. Shop around on their site, if you can swing $500, you'll save a bundle on freight. I bought an R&R catcher for my GK522a verticutter and very happy with the quality. As good if not better than OEM.

https://www.rrproducts.com/aspx/store/SchematicDetail.aspx?s=JACOBSEN^PGM_19^CUTTING_UNIT^REEL_BEDKNIFE

The only way you will locate one cheaper (and not a whole lot less IME, I see used catchers on eBay and other sites for $100+) is to find a used unit buried in the shop at a local golf course or something similar. Takes a lot of persistence/patience/connections to make that happen.


----------



## bradleymichael

I just purchased the below Jacobsen 22 PGM from my local golf course. I paid $300 for it and as you can see has the groomer attachment. The mechanic did a tune up and back lap, and the mower starts on first pull. What I can determine is the year model of it. I may have gotten screwed over on the price but I'm ok with the purchase. Any thoughts? The last 4 digits on the nameplate is 2615


----------



## bradleymichael

Please... not everyone all at once.


----------



## MasterMech

bradleymichael said:


> Please... not everyone all at once.


Jake's are a bit harder to run down. I don't have a handy method to help. Deere and Toro are pretty easy to guestimate.

Price is beyond excellent and for a reel low lawn, that's going to be a phenomenal unit to run.

EDIT: You can't hardly get a salvage machine for $300, let alone one with a groomer, in good condition and ready to mow.


----------



## bradleymichael

MasterMech said:


> bradleymichael said:
> 
> 
> 
> Please... not everyone all at once.
> 
> 
> 
> Jake's are a bit harder to run down. I don't have a handy method to help. Deere and Toro are pretty easy to guestimate.
> 
> Price is beyond excellent and for a reel low lawn, that's going to be a phenomenal unit to run.
> 
> EDIT: You can't hardly get a salvage machine for $300, let alone one with a groomer, in good condition and ready to mow.
Click to expand...

That's kind of what I was thinking @MasterMech. I'm excited to start using it, i'm leveling my yard this weekend to prepare for reel mowing.


----------



## Kallgren

Well OK, OK I will chime in. Looks like a nice machine AND you have a groomer (which is wicked cool) AND it was owned by a golf course that probably took very good care of it. That they gave it a backlap and tuned things up, seems like a very fair price. You will want to go explore the Jacobsen website and download the pertinent materials, i.e. the PGM technical manuals.

You might find several versions, I downloaded all the manuals for my mower and then after reviewing features found the one that matched my mower the closest. If you need to order any parts, you can enter the Jacobsen part number into the R&R Products webpage to order them. Easy as eating pie.

Regarding age, it isn't so important how old it is, more how well cared for was it and how does it run today.

I would suggest do a side by side comparison - run a couple stripes down that lawn with yours with your rotary and with the reel mower and then let us know what you think.

Did you score a grass catcher with it?


----------



## bradleymichael

Unfortunately no grass catcher.


----------



## Kallgren

No worries, nice to have, but let's see some cuts! And let us know how you get on with it! A ship in the harbor is safe but that is not what ships are for!


----------



## bradleymichael

Leveling this weekend and then I'll give her the maiden voyage!


----------



## Kallgren

May the tides be favorable and the winds be fair, enjoy your new mower.


----------



## Johnl445

I found this today on YouTube 
Jacobsen 522

https://youtu.be/0aWgbdxgSbQ


----------



## socerplaye

So I'm having issues getting the cut looking god again on the 526a. I've replaced the bedknife adjustment bracket, bedknife (heavy), and front grooved roller (heavy steel). I backlapped when I put the new bedknife on and I've got the height adjusted within 0.001 on each side. I can cut single sheets on each side and in the middle. Issue is the cut is looking out of level.

Could it be an issue with something else I've not adjusted right? Or am I looking at more of issue with the yard getting so thick it's sinking on sloping areas?


----------



## fjfjsh

Trying to find a traction motor controller for a eclipse 2 122f anyone here can help me out?


----------



## MasterMech

fjfjsh said:


> Trying to find a traction motor controller for a eclipse 2 122f anyone here can help me out?


Are you looking for a new parts source or a used part?


----------



## FlaDave

So I didn't think much of this unit until I zoomed in and saw it has a groomer. I think it's an older pgm22 or tc22. Thoughts? They are asking $300. I already have a nice pgm22 but I've always wanted a groomer. 


Check out this item on OfferUp. https://offerup.co/z3V1nWfGHib


----------



## Johnl445

I'm looking for a grooved roller for my 526 greens king, and I'm looking for a roller with the wide spacing and deep grooves. the only thing that I can find is this r&r product and it's made for the tri king 526 - 26" inch. anyone Know if these two rollers are compatible

https://www.rrproducts.com/Roller-~-Grooved-Repairable-Steel-26-product13963


----------



## arm0211

In the dfw and this popped up for $400 seems like a decent deal. Seller says it runs but needs a linkage adjustment. Thoughts. I'm familiar with McLane's and JD, but never put my hands on a Jake. Anything specific to Jake's than the others to look for?


----------



## MasterMech

arm0211 said:


> In the dfw and this popped up for $400 seems like a decent deal. Seller says it runs but needs a linkage adjustment. Thoughts. I'm familiar with McLane's and JD, but never put my hands on a Jake. Anything specific to Jake's than the others to look for?


Just know that clutch parts (except for the actual friction discs) are pricey if it turns out to be a bit more than an adjustment.

https://www.rrproducts.com/jacobsen-greens-king-422-traction-unit-clutch.html


----------



## arm0211

MasterMech said:


> arm0211 said:
> 
> 
> 
> In the dfw and this popped up for $400 seems like a decent deal. Seller says it runs but needs a linkage adjustment. Thoughts. I'm familiar with McLane's and JD, but never put my hands on a Jake. Anything specific to Jake's than the others to look for?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just know that clutch parts (except for the actual friction discs) are pricey if it turns out to be a bit more than an adjustment.
> 
> https://www.rrproducts.com/jacobsen-greens-king-422-traction-unit-clutch.html
Click to expand...

I did stop by to look at it and without seeing the reel and the drive engage I couldn't justify taking a gamble. He did have a beat up toro 1000 that I tried to get thrown in the deal but just could come to a deal.

Also the engine on the Jake didn't run clean either and had to have the choke half way to stay running.


----------



## Johnl445

My 526 greens king has the bedknife to reel adjustment with just regular bolt. And it very easy to looks track of your adjustments with the aid of the click used by toro or JD. has anyone had any success of modifying the bolt to the click adjustment or any other suggestions.


----------



## MasterMech

Johnl445 said:


> I'm looking for a grooved roller for my 526 greens king, and I'm looking for a roller with the wide spacing and deep grooves. the only thing that I can find is this r&r product and it's made for the tri king 526 - 26" inch. anyone Know if these two rollers are compatible
> 
> https://www.rrproducts.com/Roller-~-Grooved-Repairable-Steel-26-product13963


Your link is broken.

Your best bet is to take the original Jake part number for the roller you are looking for and plug it into the RR website.

I don't think they offered a "repairable" spacer/washer type roller for the 526 or a cast steel type like you'd typically find on a Trim and Surround mower like the Tri-King. Tri-King Rollers are also 3" diameter vs the typical 2" roller font on a greensmower.

The 3" diameter roller MIGHT actually fit the 526 as there's pretty generous clearance to the grass catcher. The only question for me would be if the axle fits in the 526 front roller brackets.

OR

You might be able to build a repairable-type 2" x 26" roller by sourcing a 26" axle and buying a 22" roller assembly + a few washers and spacers.

https://www.rrproducts.com/roller-grooved-repairable-steel-r68527r.html

Add:

(10) R150651 - Spacer
(10) R150651A - Spacer
(10) R150652 - Washer

The wild card is the axle

A potential candidate would be:

(1) R366588 - Shaft, 26 Roller

Or you could always take the 22" axle to a machine shop and have it extended. (prob. my preferred route)

R & R tech support could probably answer the compatibility question for you, I've always found them to be quite helpful.

"Will the R150650 roller ends thread onto the R366588 shaft?"


----------



## Johnl445

@MasterMech 
I can't thank you enough for your generous response and crystal clear directions I will keep you posted on my search for the perfect 26 inch roller. best wishes


----------



## Misb_88

Anyone have experience with the battery powered eclipse 122 Battery powered mowers? Just got 2 in an auction but having trouble finding info on the charger.


----------



## MasterMech

Misb_88 said:


> Anyone have experience with the battery powered eclipse 122 Battery powered mowers? Just got 2 in an auction but having trouble finding info on the charger.


Wow, those are pretty rare on the used market.

I don't have one, but I have been half-heartedly researching converting an Eclipse to full battery. They are 48V SLA Battery packs if my info is correct. There are LOTS of applications out there for stand-alone 48V Lead-Acid chargers. Forklifts, Stackers, Scissor Lifts, Golf Carts, Floor Scrubbers, etc.

If you want to sell one of those battery boxes (can remove the batteries for shipping), let me know! I'd consider a whole unit but I'm really after an Eclipse 126 and I'd have to brush up on importing the thing.


----------



## Misb_88

There were 2 available in auction.

Correct on the battery info. it has an Anderson SB50 connection. I assume I can add the male anderson sb50 connection to a charger cord. I am not to familiar with the electrical aspects. Batteries were not sold or shipped with the mower according to the manual. I assume charger was up to buyer not Jacobsen.


----------



## Misb_88

sangheili said:


> New pickup last week


Just got the electric 122f, no charger provided. What are you using? Jacobsen just gives the specs of the charger in the manual.


----------



## Vaughan19

Hi all,
I've recently purchased a jacobsen greensking 522 it has a lot of parts missing but I'm in the process of buying all the parts to get her up and running, my question is can the mower be used without the park and reel engage levers? Just pull the loop handle and start cutting?


----------



## MasterMech

Vaughan19 said:


> Hi all,
> I've recently purchased a jacobsen greensking 522 it has a lot of parts missing but I'm in the process of buying all the parts to get her up and running, my question is can the mower be used without the park and reel engage levers? Just pull the loop handle and start cutting?


Is there any way to engage/disengage the main clutch? It is technically possible to use it without, but you would need a wide open area to do so as you have no way to quickly stop the mower once it's running. The parking brakes are completely optional.

Also, I wouldn't spend much to re-install the levers. If you can get them cheap (and don't forget the cables) - great. But I'd be boneyard hunting to find a handle assembly off a unit with InCommand controls. Grab the centrifugal clutch unit and you may need the driveshaft too. It will make the unit much nicer to use on a home lawn.


----------



## Vaughan19

MasterMech said:


> Vaughan19 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi all,
> I've recently purchased a jacobsen greensking 522 it has a lot of parts missing but I'm in the process of buying all the parts to get her up and running, my question is can the mower be used without the park and reel engage levers? Just pull the loop handle and start cutting?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any way to engage/disengage the main clutch? It is technically possible to use it without, but you would need a wide open area to do so as you have no way to quickly stop the mower once it's running. The parking brakes are completely optional.
> 
> Also, I wouldn't spend much to re-install the levers. If you can get them cheap (and don't forget the cables) - great. But I'd be boneyard hunting to find a handle assembly off a unit with InCommand controls. Grab the centrifugal clutch unit and you may need the driveshaft too.  It will make the unit much nicer to use on a home lawn.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the answers, the small problem for hunting for 2nd hand parts is I'm in Australia 🇦🇺 and jacobsens are quite rare to come across, the toro 1000s are popular but demand a high price, and USPS have stopped shipping to aus due to covid. I will get a quote from r&r for the essentials and see how much I can get away with, I'm loving dismantling the unit and learning all of the components, I'm sure I'll have more questions 😊


----------



## chadh

Anyone have a detailed service manual for a G-Plex II? I picked one up for free and so far it's dead when you turn the key. Checked battery and fuses, not sure where to go next.


----------



## MasterMech

chadh said:


> Anyone have a detailed service manual for a G-Plex II? I picked one up for free and so far it's dead when you turn the key. Checked battery and fuses, not sure where to go next.


Good News for you - Jake publishes their service manuals online at their website.

https://www.jacobsen.com/owners/product-parts-and-manuals

For the G-Plex II, Scroll down to "Out Of Production" models.


----------



## chadh

Got it. I'm at a loss for where to start on this. Battery is charged, but it seems like the "dash" is dead. No movement or flutter from gauges when the key is in the on position, hour meter doesn't move either. Checked the 4 fuses, all are good. Any ideas?


----------



## MasterMech

Assuming you have the gas engine:

Start at the Battery + and work forwards using the schematics in your manual. A simple test light connected to ground will do. Test at the + terminal, then the battery side of the starter solenoid. There should be a BATT terminal on the ign switch too. You should have power at one side of the fuse holder (with the fuse removed) feeding the key switch and possibly the fuse for the starter relay at all times. With the key on, you should have power on one side of the remaining two fuses. If you don't, I would disconnect and test the key switch for continuity.


----------



## kay7711226

Says Free...... "Free Jacobson Greens Mower and Trailer"

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/it ... =top_picks


----------



## chadh

So i jiggled something right and now the light on the dash turns on when i turn the key on. Still no starter movement, but the starter moved when i put power directly to signal post on solenoid. Something in the "safety" circuit is not switched right so thats my next investigation.


----------



## MasterMech

chadh said:


> So i jiggled something right and now the light on the dash turns on when i turn the key on. Still no starter movement, but the starter moved when i put power directly to signal post on solenoid. Something in the "safety" circuit is not switched right so thats my next investigation.


Check for power at the "S" or "Start" terminal of the key switch with the key turned to Start. You can also jumper the BATT terminal to START and it should crank if the safeties are ok. It's pretty common for these key switches to corrode internally if they were left to sit outdoors for awhile.


----------



## Jcoffeyy

I scooped a 518a for free and got the engine idling great with a new carb and spark plug. The next issue is the engine dies when I press the throttle. It looks like the clutch stops moving when I engage the throttle and I'm guessing that's why it dies. Also I noticed the clutch disk is missing one of the wings that sit in the groove pictured. Not sure where to start on the new issues. I also think the clutch levers aren't doing their job, but that probably cant be confirmed until I figure out the clutch itself.

Is this even worth fixing?


----------



## Kallgren

Jcoffeyy said:


> It looks like the clutch stops moving when I engage the throttle and I'm guessing that's why it dies. Also I noticed the clutch disk is missing one of the wings that sit in the groove pictured.


Curious if you mean that the engine dies when you try to engage the clutch, not throttle. In which case I would suspect a seized bearing.

I believe you can disengage the traction clutch lever and the reel clutch lever and with the engine switch set to OFF and ideally the spork plug wire disconnected for safety, you should be able to manually rotate the reel and manually rotate the clutch shaft to see if they move freely. You might have to remove the side cover to try rotating the drum.

They are easy to work on and parts readily available. Plus download the service manual from the Jacobsen website.


----------



## Jcoffeyy

Kallgren said:


> Jcoffeyy said:
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like the clutch stops moving when I engage the throttle and I'm guessing that's why it dies. Also I noticed the clutch disk is missing one of the wings that sit in the groove pictured.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Curious if you mean that the engine dies when you try to engage the clutch, not throttle. In which case I would suspect a seized bearing.
> 
> I believe you can disengage the traction clutch lever and the reel clutch lever and with the engine switch set to OFF and ideally the spork plug wire disconnected for safety, you should be able to manually rotate the reel and manually rotate the clutch shaft to see if they move freely. You might have to remove the side cover to try rotating the drum.
> 
> They are easy to work on and parts readily available. Plus download the service manual from the Jacobsen website.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply! Yes you're correct. I meant when I engage the throttle. I investigated a little further and it looks like if I rotate the clutch shaft I can see the reel rotate with it. When I engage the drum with the engine off and try to roll the mower the drum is as if its locked, but if I disengage it, the drum moves freely.

I think the issue might lie in the clutch shaft assembly maybe. I'm new to working on small engines and this is my first reel mower so I'm kind of in the dark lol. It does look like the clutch disc is broken so that might be a start. Could that also be the reason for the engine dying when attempting to engage the clutch?


----------



## MasterMech

If the clutch lever is disengaged, springs compressed, then the status of all components downstream is irrelevant and we can focus on just the engine.

If the engine starts and idles just fine, but will not accelerate (and stalls) when advancing the throttle lever, the problem is likely in the carburetor. Something is blocking the main jet in the carb and starving the engine for fuel as the throttle plate opens. I would start by removing the carb bowl and attempting to blow some carb cleaner from an aerosol can through the main jet and center stem.


----------



## Jcoffeyy

MasterMech said:


> If the clutch lever is disengaged, springs compressed, then the status of all components downstream is irrelevant and we can focus on just the engine.
> 
> If the engine starts and idles just fine, but will not accelerate (and stalls) when advancing the throttle lever, the problem is likely in the carburetor. Something is blocking the main jet in the carb and starving the engine for fuel as the throttle plate opens. I would start by removing the carb bowl and attempting to blow some carb cleaner from an aerosol can through the main jet and center stem.


I'll try to take a video of the issue and post tomorrow because I may be describing the components wrong. It does survive accelerating the throttle and has a brand new carb and spark plug. When I engage the clutch it starts to die and when I let off it comes backs to a healthy idle.


----------



## chadh

MasterMech said:


> chadh said:
> 
> 
> 
> So i jiggled something right and now the light on the dash turns on when i turn the key on. Still no starter movement, but the starter moved when i put power directly to signal post on solenoid. Something in the "safety" circuit is not switched right so thats my next investigation.
> 
> 
> 
> Check for power at the "S" or "Start" terminal of the key switch with the key turned to Start. You can also jumper the BATT terminal to START and it should crank if the safeties are ok. It's pretty common for these key switches to corrode internally if they were left to sit outdoors for awhile.
Click to expand...

So after some further investigation, the fuse holder for the seat switch was a bit loose. got the fuse in all the way and it started up with starter fluid. Now to start figuring out the fuel delivery issue. I'll start with new fuel lines and then tear the carburetor apart


----------



## MasterMech

Jcoffeyy said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> If the clutch lever is disengaged, springs compressed, then the status of all components downstream is irrelevant and we can focus on just the engine.
> 
> If the engine starts and idles just fine, but will not accelerate (and stalls) when advancing the throttle lever, the problem is likely in the carburetor. Something is blocking the main jet in the carb and starving the engine for fuel as the throttle plate opens. I would start by removing the carb bowl and attempting to blow some carb cleaner from an aerosol can through the main jet and center stem.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try to take a video of the issue and post tomorrow because I may be describing the components wrong. It does survive accelerating the throttle and has a brand new carb and spark plug. When I engage the clutch it starts to die and when I let off it comes backs to a healthy idle.
Click to expand...

The most common reason for one of these to stall when engaging the main clutch (assuming the engine is healthy) is the parking break is engaged along with the traction clutch.


 Ensure the reel clutch is disengaged.
 Machine rolls back/forth freely?
 If No...
 Is the parking brake engaged?
 Is the traction clutch engaged?


 If both the parking brake and the traction clutch are disengaged and the machine still does not roll back and forth freely, then disassembly will be necessary to understand the cause.
 If both the reel clutch and the traction clutch are disengaged and the engine still stalls when engaging the main clutch, then the problem must be between the main clutch and the reel clutch in the powertrain. There's not a whole lot involved as far as components, maybe two bearings and a belt tensioner.


These mowers are VERY simple mechanical beasts and require nothing out of the ordinary to work on. You can follow along my reel rebuild I did on my GK526a a couple years back and there are plenty of tips and photos to help you visualize what's happening in the machine under the covers and a step by step to getting the belt cover off should it be necessary.


----------



## Jcoffeyy

MasterMech said:


> Jcoffeyy said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> If the clutch lever is disengaged, springs compressed, then the status of all components downstream is irrelevant and we can focus on just the engine.
> 
> If the engine starts and idles just fine, but will not accelerate (and stalls) when advancing the throttle lever, the problem is likely in the carburetor. Something is blocking the main jet in the carb and starving the engine for fuel as the throttle plate opens. I would start by removing the carb bowl and attempting to blow some carb cleaner from an aerosol can through the main jet and center stem.
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try to take a video of the issue and post tomorrow because I may be describing the components wrong. It does survive accelerating the throttle and has a brand new carb and spark plug. When I engage the clutch it starts to die and when I let off it comes backs to a healthy idle.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The most common reason for one of these to stall when engaging the main clutch (assuming the engine is healthy) is the parking break is engaged along with the traction clutch.
> 
> 
> Ensure the reel clutch is disengaged.
> Machine rolls back/forth freely?
> If No...
> Is the parking brake engaged?
> Is the traction clutch engaged?
> 
> 
> If both the parking brake and the traction clutch are disengaged and the machine still does not roll back and forth freely, then disassembly will be necessary to understand the cause.
> If both the reel clutch and the traction clutch are disengaged and the engine still stalls when engaging the main clutch, then the problem must be between the main clutch and the reel clutch in the powertrain. There's not a whole lot involved as far as components, maybe two bearings and a belt tensioner.
> 
> 
> These mowers are VERY simple mechanical beasts and require nothing out of the ordinary to work on. You can follow along my reel rebuild I did on my GK526a a couple years back and there are plenty of tips and photos to help you visualize what's happening in the machine under the covers and a step by step to getting the belt cover off should it be necessary.
Click to expand...




Thank you for this. So, I realized from your rebuild post that whoever had this before me toyed with the clutch levels and reinstalled them incorrectly. I was able to see the reel spin without the engine dying but had no movement with the silver drum. I'll need to tinker a little more.


----------



## MasterMech

@Jcoffeyy don't hesitate to tear the belt cover off and get a look at things. With the cover off, you can still run the engine. The traction clutch will not stay engaged and the reel clutch will always be engaged but you'll see first hand if something is bound up. You can also try backing the bedknife away from the reel just to eliminate any friction there.


----------



## Jcoffeyy

MasterMech said:


> @Jcoffeyy don't hesitate to tear the belt cover off and get a look at things. With the cover off, you can still run the engine. The traction clutch will not stay engaged and the reel clutch will always be engaged but you'll see first hand if something is bound up. You can also try backing the bedknife away from the reel just to eliminate any friction there.


Looks like it's all functioning with the belt cover off. I think one of the issues is whoever had it before me pulled the belt cover off then didn't reinstall the clutch levers properly. But when I put it all back together only the right side of the traction drum rolls when engaging the clutch from the handle with the engine running and the left seems to be locked into position. Got frustrated and had to take a break lol.

At one point with everything disengaged both rollers moved freely.

When I install the traction clutch lever in the engaged position then move it to disengage I can't flip it all the way back to engage. I did notice the traction clutch lever is missing the spring. Could that be causing this issue? Is that something that has to come from RR or is there a spring from Home Depot or lowes that would work in it's place?


----------



## MasterMech

Jcoffeyy said:


> .....
> 
> When I install the traction clutch lever in the engaged position then move it to disengage I can't flip it all the way back to engage. I did notice the traction clutch lever is missing the spring. Could that be causing this issue? Is that something that has to come from RR or is there a spring from Home Depot or lowes that would work in it's place?


Are we talking about the small springs that "power" the detent balls for the traction clutch lever or the spring that holds the main clutch lever disengaged?

I doubt either has anything to do with the right-hand section of the drum not rotating freely.

In either case, a similar replacement from the general hardware section should suffice. Order the correct replacement at your leisure the next time you place an order with R&R or Jake.


----------



## trashpanda

Looking between a couple 122F's and a 522A - I've got a builders Bermuda lawn and probably can't get below a .5" thus far as I missed top dressing our first season in the house (I used a manual reel most of the season and a Tru Cut right before dormancy at just under an inch). My question is this, with the groomer on the 522A, are the high HOC brackets still an option? From the pics they look to be different since it has the groomer. And are the Eclipse models even worth the time if there's no "economical" way to raise the HOC?


----------



## jkartchner10

trashpanda said:


> Looking between a couple 122F's and a 522A - I've got a builders Bermuda lawn and probably can't get below a .5" thus far as I missed top dressing our first season in the house (I used a manual reel most of the season and a Tru Cut right before dormancy at just under an inch). My question is this, with the groomer on the 522A, are the high HOC brackets still an option? From the pics they look to be different since it has the groomer. And are the Eclipse models even worth the time if there's no "economical" way to raise the HOC?


I have a 122f and you can use the high HOC brackets and get it to 1.5" HOC. You can also buy a 7 blade reel and replace the 11 blade on the 122f. then use the electric controller on the handle to dial in the FOC for your desired height and blade number and your off to the races


----------



## trashpanda

jkartchner10 said:


> trashpanda said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking between a couple 122F's and a 522A - I've got a builders Bermuda lawn and probably can't get below a .5" thus far as I missed top dressing our first season in the house (I used a manual reel most of the season and a Tru Cut right before dormancy at just under an inch). My question is this, with the groomer on the 522A, are the high HOC brackets still an option? From the pics they look to be different since it has the groomer. And are the Eclipse models even worth the time if there's no "economical" way to raise the HOC?
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 122f and you can use the high HOC brackets and get it to 1.5" HOC. You can also buy a 7 blade reel and replace the 11 blade on the 122f. then use the electric controller on the handle to dial in the FOC for your desired height and blade number and your off to the races
Click to expand...

Thanks! That's awesome and good to know. Any chance yours is a Hybrid? I think this one's a Hybrid but has less than 50 hours on it, my concern is the longevity of the electrical components and cost/complexity of repair.

Still hoping someone can chime in as to whether the brackets will work with a groomer on the 522A. Those units seem a little more straight forward mechanically, in the event it does need work down the road. I realize raising the HOC reduces the effectiveness of the groomer but may only be for a season or two until I can get a more level surface.


----------



## jkartchner10

trashpanda said:


> jkartchner10 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> trashpanda said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking between a couple 122F's and a 522A - I've got a builders Bermuda lawn and probably can't get below a .5" thus far as I missed top dressing our first season in the house (I used a manual reel most of the season and a Tru Cut right before dormancy at just under an inch). My question is this, with the groomer on the 522A, are the high HOC brackets still an option? From the pics they look to be different since it has the groomer. And are the Eclipse models even worth the time if there's no "economical" way to raise the HOC?
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 122f and you can use the high HOC brackets and get it to 1.5" HOC. You can also buy a 7 blade reel and replace the 11 blade on the 122f. then use the electric controller on the handle to dial in the FOC for your desired height and blade number and your off to the races
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks! That's awesome and good to know. Any chance yours is a Hybrid? I think this one's a Hybrid but has less than 50 hours on it, my concern is the longevity of the electrical components and cost/complexity of repair.
> 
> Still hoping someone can chime in as to whether the brackets will work with a groomer on the 522A. Those units seem a little more straight forward mechanically, in the event it does need work down the road. I realize raising the HOC reduces the effectiveness of the groomer but may only be for a season or two until I can get a more level surface.
Click to expand...

Yeah mine is a hybrid with the honda engine on it. mine has about 110 hours on it with no apparent issues, but i picked it up in october last year and havent had too much time with it. all i know is a new reel motor is $$$$ if it goes out. It is a commercial grade mower that i'll be using for homeowner duties, so im hoping its so overbuilt i never have any issues with it besides normal maintenance. as far as complexity to repair i would say its probably simpler than the 522 since you dont have the drive system or chains with the electric motors, in my opinion. although that all hinges on how comfortable you are with electrical issues in the future like a wiring fix


----------



## MasterMech

trashpanda said:


> jkartchner10 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> trashpanda said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looking between a couple 122F's and a 522A - I've got a builders Bermuda lawn and probably can't get below a .5" thus far as I missed top dressing our first season in the house (I used a manual reel most of the season and a Tru Cut right before dormancy at just under an inch). My question is this, with the groomer on the 522A, are the high HOC brackets still an option? From the pics they look to be different since it has the groomer. And are the Eclipse models even worth the time if there's no "economical" way to raise the HOC?
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 122f and you can use the high HOC brackets and get it to 1.5" HOC. You can also buy a 7 blade reel and replace the 11 blade on the 122f. then use the electric controller on the handle to dial in the FOC for your desired height and blade number and your off to the races
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks! That's awesome and good to know. Any chance yours is a Hybrid? I think this one's a Hybrid but has less than 50 hours on it, my concern is the longevity of the electrical components and cost/complexity of repair.
> 
> Still hoping someone can chime in as to whether the brackets will work with a groomer on the 522A. Those units seem a little more straight forward mechanically, in the event it does need work down the road. I realize raising the HOC reduces the effectiveness of the groomer but may only be for a season or two until I can get a more level surface.
Click to expand...

You might be surprised at what's possible on a "builder" lawn. I started in on a 2-year old builder lawn and was able to mow at 5/8" with no trouble. Probably could have gone lower if I'd wanted. Even with no levelling, just running the mower over it every 3-4 days made a big difference by the end of season 1.

The groomer and high HoC brackets are mutually exclusive on the GK500 series. It's also worth noting that the front roller is specific to the groomer option on the Jakes as well. To go higher than 7/16", you'd need to remove all the groomer hardware, buy the basket brackets ($120), the tall roller brackets ($40), and a front roller of your choice ($150-200). On the 522, there is also no 7 or 9 blade reel option. 11 is workable for higher heights, but on the good/better/best scale, it's a good. I like this series of mower, but there are some drawbacks (reel options) and you'd be spending some $$$ to convert a machine setup for putting greens to mow >.500" Lot's of 522's out there without groomers. If you come across a 526, they do have a 7-blade reel option and are rarely equipped with a groomer.

All Eclipse units are hybrids. There are high HoC brackets for those cutting units, as the 122f would use the same brackets as the 5" reel diameter fairway units. I can give you all the part numbers (for either unit actually) when the time comes. The biggest drawback to these units would be the cost of repair.

As far as the 500 series vs an Eclipse - in general: The 500 series is a simple, all-mechanical beast. (Usually) Relatively cheap to fix, easy to understand, excellent parts availability thanks to R&R Products. R&R cloned the GK500 series a few years back and can make just about any part for them. Handles, Catchers, Frames, pulleys, covers, shafts, etc. They've got far more available for these machines than the typical set of consumables available for other units. The Eclipse gives more features, at the cost of being primarily an electric machine with an electronic control system.


----------



## trashpanda

@MasterMech big thanks for thought out and detailed reply! Looks like both Eclipse's are 15 blades which increases the cost even further, 11 blades I can see as workable at sub-.5" it sounds like. I did look around and there are some GK526s available but both asking 2-3k with 11 blades, neither with groomers.

This may also be a silly question but what is the A for on the GK models, 522A, 526A, etc? Originally I assumed it was for groomer but quickly realized it was both ways. Updated revision?


----------



## MasterMech

trashpanda said:


> @MasterMech big thanks for thought out and detailed reply! Looks like both Eclipse's are 15 blades which increases the cost even further, 11 blades I can see as workable at sub-.5" it sounds like. I did look around and there are some GK526s available but both asking 2-3k with 11 blades, neither with groomers.
> 
> This may also be a silly question but what is the A for on the GK models, 522A, 526A, etc? Originally I assumed it was for groomer but quickly realized it was both ways. Updated revision?


It's complicated. The "a" units are a little newer, that's all, the controls slightly updated. Then you get into the units with InCommand controls, (centrifugal main clutch) all of which wear the "a" suffix.


----------



## chadh

I've been slowly getting my G-Plex II back to mowing condition. My final problem is that the rear reel does not want to lift back up once it goes down. I've tested the cylinder, and the cylinder is working just fine. I've cleaned all of the hydraulic valves under the seat, it seems more electrical than anything. Anyone familiar enough with these machines to help me troubleshoot? Seems like something in the sequence circuit isn't working properly


----------



## MasterMech

chadh said:


> I've been slowly getting my G-Plex II back to mowing condition. My final problem is that the rear reel does not want to lift back up once it goes down. I've tested the cylinder, and the cylinder is working just fine. I've cleaned all of the hydraulic valves under the seat, it seems more electrical than anything. Anyone familiar enough with these machines to help me troubleshoot? Seems like something in the sequence circuit isn't working properly


How do we know the cylinder is good?

Does the sequence switch have any affect on the rear unit raising and lowering?

With the sequence switch open/off, all three units should raise simultaneously.

ETA: Your wiring diagrams (from manual) show the sequence switch is a manually operated rocker. Is that true?

Found it. Jeeze - kind of a hokey way to do things this day and age but hey, these machines are old ....

I think the answer is in either the sequence switch, or the actuation of it. It could possibly be in the rear unit up/down limit switches, but the behavior you describe seems to indicate the sequence switch is stuck with the NO contacts closed.

The sequencing system operation is described  in the manual, page 13.

Also, just for troubleshooting purposes - Supplying 12V direct to the sequence solenoid valve should get the rear unit moving in sync with the fronts, just a tad slower since there are flow restrictor orifices in the circuit.


----------



## chadh

So I ordered a new rocker switch, i haven't installed it yet but i realized the reel switch was the same switch so just to check while waiting i switched those two out. The rear will move down slightly when switched, but never returns back up. I've adjusted the linkage and all that with no luck. I'd guess my next step is to go 12v direct to solenoid.


----------



## MasterMech

chadh said:


> So I ordered a new rocker switch, i haven't installed it yet but i realized the reel switch was the same switch so just to check while waiting i switched those two out. The rear will move down slightly when switched, but never returns back up. I've adjusted the linkage and all that with no luck. I'd guess my next step is to go 12v direct to solenoid.


Does the old switch function in the reel position?


----------



## chadh

Yes the old switch functioned there so i'm moving on past that switch.

Tonight, I was able to get the rear reel to lift with weird combination of switching the lift solenoid wires and playing with the limit switches. Honestly i changed it so much I don't know what I did, but it leads me to believe that theres something going on with the limit switches on the rear arm. I'm not sure if they are switched or what. Is there someway to check those? If so whats the complete idiots guide to doing that. I do have a multimeter.

One other "clue" to whats going on and what points to those limit switches is that when i lift the front reels and lower them once or twice, it's like they give up and won't move again, which makes me think that limit switch isn't engaged to allow them to cycle again.


----------



## chadh

Replying here to help those in the future. My issue was the sequence relay. $15 at auto zone and i'm good to go


----------



## Misb_88

I am having an issue with my 122f fully electric reel mower. Reel works perfectly fine when engaded, but roller is not moving, no traction. Could this be a traction motor issue? Could it be the parking brake needing adjustment?

Anyone have any experience diagnosing or fixing the rear roller?


----------



## Trowlands

Misb_88 said:


> I am having an issue with my 122f fully electric reel mower. Reel works perfectly fine when engaded, but roller is not moving, no traction. Could this be a traction motor issue? Could it be the parking brake needing adjustment?
> 
> Anyone have any experience diagnosing or fixing the rear roller?


Is the rocker switch in the forward position? That should spin the reel and drum. I have also seen the reel and drive in the wrong connection in the computer reel should be in the top plug drive in the bottom.

Could be the belt as well


----------



## Misb_88

Is the rocker switch in the forward position? That should spin the reel and drum. I have also seen the reel and drive in the wrong connection in the computer reel should be in the top plug drive in the bottom.

Could be the belt as well
[/quote]

I will check the belt. I havent opened up that area yet. The mower says it has 486 hours of runtime, not sure if that is alot for these models.

The rocker switch works for the reel and backlapping mode. I swapped plugs with no luck.


----------



## DustinG2020

MasterMech said:


> BTW: Polychain is a Gates trademark, if there is a Gates part number legible on the belt, you may be able to to order it substantially cheaper from your local Fastenall or other similar supply house that carries Gates belts. You can take a few simple measurements and try to narrow it down on the Gates website as well. I was able to get down to 1 of 2 part numbers.


Were you able to find belts cheaper at Fastenal? I have 2 518A and need belts..


----------



## MasterMech

DustinG2020 said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> BTW: Polychain is a Gates trademark, if there is a Gates part number legible on the belt, you may be able to to order it substantially cheaper from your local Fastenall or other similar supply house that carries Gates belts. You can take a few simple measurements and try to narrow it down on the Gates website as well. I was able to get down to 1 of 2 part numbers.
> 
> 
> 
> Were you able to find belts cheaper at Fastenal? I have 2 518A and need belts..
Click to expand...

I have just been using R&R's belts in my machines just because it's convenient. I don't go through belts very often at all.

I replaced the belts in the 526 as soon as I bought it, then broke one a few months later. Have been good since. The 522 had good belts in it when I got it and it gets very few hours of use each year.


----------



## DustinG2020

I just picked up 2 518A. I think between the 2 of them I can get one to run. I'm need to get a air filter, throttle, reel engage part. As well as 2 belts. Both reels are in great shape. Seems like I bite off more than I can chew but I'll see how it goes.


----------



## Colinwjholding

DustinG2020 said:


> I just picked up 2 518A. I think between the 2 of them I can get one to run. I'm need to get a air filter, throttle, reel engage part. As well as 2 belts. Both reels are in great shape. Seems like I bite off more than I can chew but I'll see how it goes.


They are easier then you think. All the manuals are available on line.


----------



## cgeorg07

Anyone know the year/model for this Jacobsen? Considering it as a winter project. I am not a mechanic by any means whatsoever, but enjoy taking things apart and putting them back together.

Just wondering if parts will be hard to come by. He's asking $400 for two of them.


----------



## MasterMech

Really Old Greensmower or PGM model. Waaaay before my time. I'm going to guess an 80's model (repowered with a newer Honda) if not older.

If you think you can get one going for next to nothing, then maybe. Clearly they aren't much cosmetically, and they have little to no resale value, especially if not in running/cutting condition. As soon as it needs work, it won't be work the cost of parts.


----------



## cgeorg07

appreciate the input @MasterMech. That's what I was afraid of.


----------



## DustinG2020

Does anyone have a spare reel switch that engages the reel?


----------



## Colinwjholding

cgeorg07 said:


> Anyone know the year/model for this Jacobsen? Considering it as a winter project. I am not a mechanic by any means whatsoever, but enjoy taking things apart and putting them back together.
> 
> Just wondering if parts will be hard to come by. He's asking $400 for two of them.


looks like an early pgm 22, i have one but my reel switch is a bit different.


----------



## PhxHeat

@cgeorg07 the price is a bit steep imo, especially for back east where Jakes are a lot more common.. I bought one here in Az at the very end of 2020 for $140 and it was/is in better looking condition. I posted pics of it here in the thread back then. As for parts, so far I've only needed the clutch engagement shoe and a gasket for an inspection cover. Mine also has a honda motor on it. I cleaned the carb and it fired right up. It's been a great mower thus far. Manuals for them can be found on line. In looking for the clutch shoe, it seemed like Textron/Jacobsen still sells many (maybe all) parts for them. Other places have other more common wear/consumables. If you wanted it, I'd go for a lot lower offer.


----------



## trashpanda

Have some groomer questions for y'all on the 522a - 
Does the groomer have separate height adjustments in relation to the reel or is it fixed?
Can the groomer be disengaged or is it feasible to be using it with every mow? 
Any down sides other than having a max HOC at sub .5"?
This would likely be my only reel so want to make sure it's realistic before I go pick this thing up.


----------



## MasterMech

No reason to shy away from it if you're good with the height restrictions.


----------



## Misb_88

cgeorg07 said:


> Anyone know the year/model for this Jacobsen? Considering it as a winter project. I am not a mechanic by any means whatsoever, but enjoy taking things apart and putting them back together.
> 
> Just wondering if parts will be hard to come by. He's asking $400 for two of them.


I am going today to look at a very similar model in better condition with transport wheels. He's asking $300 hopefully get it lower.


----------



## gutowscr471

Just picked up an older PGM22 today. Engine runs fine, main clutch engaged and traction drum moves the mower across yard no problem. Only issue is 'sometimes' engagement of reel. It spins freely no binding. If I have the lever in the engage setting and mower off, spinning reel makes drive drum turn so I know it's not a chain problem. Must be weirdness with the engage/disengage lever in the chain housing. Anyone have any thoughts?


----------



## DustinG2020

I found out my 518A is a 2008. I tried to mess with the reel and bedknife adjustment and got it all out of adjustment. So I took the bedknife assembly off. I think it's the original bedknife. Which bedknife should I buy? There's several to choose from. Also will it be hard to adjust with a new bed knife?


----------



## MasterMech

DustinG2020 said:


> I found out my 518A is a 2008. I tried to mess with the reel and bedknife adjustment and got it all out of adjustment. So I took the bedknife assembly off. I think it's the original bedknife. Which bedknife should I buy? There's several to choose from. Also will it be hard to adjust with a new bed knife?


What is your intended HoC?


----------



## DustinG2020

1/2-3/4. But id like to have the option to go higher. The bedknife is rusted but has no dents or dings. I wonder if I could just get it sharpened. I also sent you an email just as a remind to let me know if you find those long roller brackets. @MasterMech


----------



## Colinwjholding

DustinG2020 said:


> I found out my 518A is a 2008. I tried to mess with the reel and bedknife adjustment and got it all out of adjustment. So I took the bedknife assembly off. I think it's the original bedknife. Which bedknife should I buy? There's several to choose from. Also will it be hard to adjust with a new bed knife?


Get the thickest one then.

Should have a thin one. Medium and thick.


----------



## DustinG2020

I keep seeing bedknifes that are 19in. Does a Greens King 528A have a 19in bedknife?


----------



## Colinwjholding

DustinG2020 said:


> I keep seeing bedknifes that are 19in. Does a Greens King 528A have a 19in bedknife?


what is the serial number for your machine? Should be a placard on the body somewhere. Then look up the serial number on RR products website. They will show you exactly what bedknife they have.


----------



## DustinG2020

Colinwjholding said:


> DustinG2020 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I keep seeing bedknifes that are 19in. Does a Greens King 528A have a 19in bedknife?
> 
> 
> 
> what is the serial number for your machine? Should be a placard on the body somewhere. Then look up the serial number on RR products website. They will show you exactly what bedknife they have.
Click to expand...


----------



## Colinwjholding

DustinG2020 said:


> Colinwjholding said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DustinG2020 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I keep seeing bedknifes that are 19in. Does a Greens King 528A have a 19in bedknife?
> 
> 
> 
> what is the serial number for your machine? Should be a placard on the body somewhere. Then look up the serial number on RR products website. They will show you exactly what bedknife they have.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Some of your information is not making sense.

If the mower is a greens king 518a it would be an 18" wide reel. 
if it is 22" wide is a 522a

just measure the width.

go on rrproducts.com and hit the make model in the top. find the bed knife. shows about 5 different thicknesses. pick the thick one if you are cutting high.


----------



## MasterMech

Colinwjholding said:


> DustinG2020 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Colinwjholding said:
> 
> 
> 
> what is the serial number for your machine? Should be a placard on the body somewhere. Then look up the serial number on RR products website. They will show you exactly what bedknife they have.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Some of your information is not making sense.
> 
> If the mower is a greens king 518a it would be an 18" wide reel.
> if it is 22" wide is a 522a
> 
> just measure the width.
> 
> go on rrproducts.com and hit the make model in the top. find the bed knife. shows about 5 different thicknesses. pick the thick one if you are cutting high.
Click to expand...

19" Bedknives are for the PGM series machines. The GK500 series uses different knives and reels. 
There is not a listed "heavy" or "fairway" knife option for the GK518. Not even a "high-cut" option. Have to use the medium section knife from the (S)LF-1880 fairway units. How do we know this works? The SLF-1880 can use the same knives as the GK518, or Eclipse 118f units. Check it out!

Here's Jacobsen's OEM lookup.

18" GK500 Series Parts:

11 Blade Reel - 5000095 -- Best reel available for higher cuts. Only other option is a 15-Blade. :? 
Medium Section Bedknife - 4118902 -- Not listed with the 518 as very few are pushing these machines to heights above .300". 
Short Front Roller Bracket - R2000040 -- For HoC under 1/2"
Tall Front Roller Bracket - R2000072 -- For HoC over 1/2"
Threaded Stud for Roller Brackets - R343616 -- Save yourself transferring your existing ones.


----------



## Jcoffeyy

Can someone explain the process of closing up the belt cover on a 518a? I think mine wasn't assembled right when it was donated to me. So when I reassembled in reverse order things were wrong.

1) Does the reel lever stay installed on the cover when you reattach the cover? If so, does it need to be in the engage or disengage position?

2) I understand the Traction lever needs to be completely removed when reattaching the belt cover. When I install the traction lever do I need to install it engaged or disengaged?

I replaced the springs and ball detents and still have issues with the levers working.


----------



## DustinG2020

Anyone got the longer roller brackets for a Greens King 518A they want to sell?


----------



## MasterMech

Jcoffeyy said:


> Can someone explain the process of closing up the belt cover on a 518a? I think mine wasn't assembled right when it was donated to me. So when I reassembled in reverse order things were wrong.
> 
> 1) Does the reel lever stay installed on the cover when you reattach the cover? If so, does it need to be in the engage or disengage position?
> 
> 2) I understand the Traction lever needs to be completely removed when reattaching the belt cover. When I install the traction lever do I need to install it engaged or disengaged?
> 
> I replaced the springs and ball detents and still have issues with the levers working.


I pop the levers up so they completely clear the clutch pieces when installing the cover. You can leave them completely out if it's easier for you and then just install the levers and detents after the cover is in place. Assuming the traction clutch is full-in, you'd then pop the levers in, in the engaged position, then set the retaking set screws and the detent pressure.


----------



## Jcoffeyy

MasterMech said:


> Jcoffeyy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Can someone explain the process of closing up the belt cover on a 518a? I think mine wasn't assembled right when it was donated to me. So when I reassembled in reverse order things were wrong.
> 
> 1) Does the reel lever stay installed on the cover when you reattach the cover? If so, does it need to be in the engage or disengage position?
> 
> 2) I understand the Traction lever needs to be completely removed when reattaching the belt cover. When I install the traction lever do I need to install it engaged or disengaged?
> 
> I replaced the springs and ball detents and still have issues with the levers working.
> 
> 
> 
> I pop the levers up so they completely clear the clutch pieces when installing the cover. You can leave them completely out if it's easier for you and then just install the levers and detents after the cover is in place. Assuming the traction clutch is full-in, you'd then pop the levers in, in the engaged position, then set the retaking set screws and the detent pressure.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. It seems like the traction lever functions 1 time to engage it. Then I run the engine and if I turn it off then disengage the lever won't engage again. My first thought was I assembled wrong or the lever wasn't all the way down or something. I also have the curved washer that sits near the clutch disc I need to replace. Going to try that this weekend but haven't taken apart a machine like this before so wish me luck haha


----------



## DustinG2020

Does anyone know how to remove the plastic cover on the handle? I'm going to install a new throttle cable. There's no bolts holding it together so I assume it pops off. But I've had no luck..


----------



## DustinG2020

@MasterMech I currently have the 11 blade reel and a low cut bed knife. I sent pics of the knife to the shop and he said it still had life. I finally got the groved belt so now I can see how this thing works. Is there any trick to getting that belt on?


----------



## gutowscr471

MasterMech said:


> PLOmaha said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi there, so I just got this 1994 Jacobsen PGM22. The reel clutch control switch was intermittently sticky, so I found banging it with a hammer (Ok fine a wrench) to disengage or engage it did the trick.
> 
> Much to my shock and horror, one day the reel stayed in disengage mode, and moving the switch between "disengage" and "engage" wouldn't make the reel work anymore.
> 
> Any thoughts what will be involved to fix this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got yourself a golden oldie there!
> 
> 503438 - Clutch kit (This is the part you broke)
> 
> You may need more parts like the chain case gaskets on your way in too. I would take it apart in order to asses the condition of the reel and traction clutches before putting together a parts order.
> 
> Service manual - http://products.jacobsen.com/img/manuals/4171663.pdf?m=1297349566
Click to expand...

I think I have a similar problem after taking mine apart. That lever looks really worn in the bottom and the reel clutch does not stay engaged. I can't find the clutch kit part referenced above anywhere online. Anyone have any insight where it can be ordered?


----------



## coreystooks

Well for those wondering if the bigger rollers would fit I thought I would be the Guinea pig. I've got a 26" eclipse and I ordered a 26" roller for a 1900d tri king. The shaft fits no problem but the roller is a full 1.5" more narrow. Unless someone knows of a way to extend it I'll just swap it for a golfco roller.


----------



## DustinG2020

I'm having a hard time adjusting the bedknife. I took the bedknife and backing off to replace screws. I've reinstalled the bedknife and now its all out of adjustment. I've already stripped one of the bolts but I have a spare. The bedknife is not new but was told it still had life. What am I missing?


----------



## DustinG2020

I got my 2008 518A running. She runs great. However I do have to leave the choke on for a while before it will run with it off. I have a new card, new air filter, new gas. So I don't know what the issue could be. Also do anyone have a spare set of the longer roller brackets they would like to sell? And 1 last question, if I decide to sell it what should I list it for? No wheels or grass catcher. Thanks.


----------



## booneatl

Please help!! Jacobsen Greensking 518A. My drum quit turning at the end of last season and I'm just getting to the problem. It appears to be the belt but I cannot seem to get the housing off. I have removed every bolt but it is hung up on this shaft. 

Everything else seems to be free and clear except for this one area. I'm assuming the orange seperates from the black but it is not in this case. Sorry but I'm barely capable mechanically but not afraid to take crap apart....lol. 
Thanks for any help.


----------



## MasterMech

@booneatl That woodruff key comes out of the shaft. If vise grips and light tapping won't get it, you can use a cold chisel to persuade it. They are pretty disposable and obtained at your local hardware store.


----------



## booneatl

Thank you, I didn't realize this "key" came out of the shaft. I see it now in the parts list.

Unfortunately it won't budge. I've used vice grips and a chisel as you suggested. Also a heat gun but no luck so far.


----------



## MasterMech

booneatl said:


> Thank you, I didn't realize this "key" came out of the shaft. I see it now in the parts list.
> 
> Unfortunately it won't budge. I've used vice grips and a chisel as you suggested. Also a heat gun but no luck so far.


Heat gun usually isn't concentrated enough. Fire is the way to go for heat in this case. You might be able to get a bite on it with a pair of sidecuts and pry it out that way. I'm surprised the chisel didn't move it. Make sure the chisel has a reasonable edge on it, so it gets a good bite. Put it on the end like you are going to shave the top of the key off. Like I said, don't worry about damaging the key as they are easily replaced.


----------



## booneatl

Got it !! Thanks for the help. I figured the heat gun was no good so I used a candle and concentrated the flame over the key. I did this several times but really don't know if it helped. I didn't want to damage the shaft. I got more aggressive with a center punch on the far end banging straight down and it finally moved for me. What a pita though.

I appreciate your help .........I would have never know that this piece moved or came out. Got the new belt ordered today!!


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

I'm tempted to upgrade from my mclane and saw this pop up on Facebook. Asking 500. Doesn't look like the prettiest machine but curious what you all think.

Apparently runs and cuts great. Hope to go look at it Sunday, anything to look for? Any idea what model this is? Owner just said it's 22in


----------



## DustinG2020

Is it possible for me to sharpen my bedknife? My reel is sharp and if back lapped it. But the bedknife isn't sharp. I know its not supposed to sharp like a knife. But in order to cut paper I have to to make contact with the reel.


----------



## MasterMech

DustinG2020 said:


> Is it possible for me to sharpen my bedknife? My reel is sharp and if back lapped it. But the bedknife isn't sharp. I know its not supposed to sharp like a knife. But in order to cut paper I have to to make contact with the reel.


"Facing" the bedknife is the process you are looking for. There are a few ways to do it. Replacing the knife and lapping it to the reel is a pretty good option too. Replacement knives are $35-50.


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

Joeeeekkkkk said:


> I'm tempted to upgrade from my mclane and saw this pop up on Facebook. Asking 500. Doesn't look like the prettiest machine but curious what you all think.
> 
> Apparently runs and cuts great. Hope to go look at it Sunday, anything to look for? Any idea what model this is? Owner just said it's 22in


Anybody? Appreciate all the help I can get! Thanks


----------



## MasterMech

Joeeeekkkkk said:


> Joeeeekkkkk said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm tempted to upgrade from my mclane and saw this pop up on Facebook. Asking 500. Doesn't look like the prettiest machine but curious what you all think.
> 
> Apparently runs and cuts great. Hope to go look at it Sunday, anything to look for? Any idea what model this is? Owner just said it's 22in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody? Appreciate all the help I can get! Thanks
Click to expand...

Looks like an early 522. Likely closing in on 20 years old but most parts are still available. Very popular model over the years too.

Caveat - no reels available with less than 11 blades. Not ideal for taller cut heights but not unworkable either.


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

MasterMech said:


> Joeeeekkkkk said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joeeeekkkkk said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm tempted to upgrade from my mclane and saw this pop up on Facebook. Asking 500. Doesn't look like the prettiest machine but curious what you all think.
> 
> Apparently runs and cuts great. Hope to go look at it Sunday, anything to look for? Any idea what model this is? Owner just said it's 22in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anybody? Appreciate all the help I can get! Thanks
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Looks like an early 522. Likely closing in on 20 years old but most parts are still available. Very popular model over the years too.
> 
> Caveat - no reels available with less than 11 blades. Not ideal for taller cut heights but not unworkable either.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply! Didn't end up seeing it today but hopefully will work out sometime this week to take a look.

I know pictures are hard to judge but any opinion on the looks of this thing? I'm far from an expert so would be tough for me to even make a conclusion on it once I see it in person.


----------



## MasterMech

Joeeeekkkkk said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like an early 522. Likely closing in on 20 years old but most parts are still available. Very popular model over the years too.
> 
> Caveat - no reels available with less than 11 blades. Not ideal for taller cut heights but not unworkable either.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply! Didn't end up seeing it today but hopefully will work out sometime this week to take a look.
> 
> I know pictures are hard to judge but any opinion on the looks of this thing? I'm far from an expert so would be tough for me to even make a conclusion on it once I see it in person.
Click to expand...

The parking brake assemblies have been removed, this may actually be a blessing. :lol: It looks to be fairly typical for the age and model. Engine is not original (original engines had orange sheet metal), but as long as it runs, I see no issue. The one thing I'd probably want to change would be the front roller. Smooth is great for greens, tends to float too much on .250"-.500"+ Bermuda for my liking. It's also missing the transport wheels (no biggie) and the grass catcher (bigger deal IMO) so if you want those, it will cost a few beans.

$500 for the machine,

Recommended:

$270 for a grass catcher (told ya it was a bigger deal :bd: )
$180 for a heavy grooved front roller

We're at $950 so far. which isn't terrible for a well-optioned greens mower (with no running/cutting issues) IMO, especially given the current market. Yes, this machine is old, and you may see slightly newer 522's sell for similar money. But if they aren't local to you, I think I'd take this unit over shipping one in sight-unseen.

Optional:

Transport Wheel Kit - $200


----------



## brschmitt

Afternoon!

This is my first post here or on any forum but my wife says the yard better look perfect this year or else! I put my general situation below my question for more information if interested. Thank you in advance! Glad to be part of the group, looking forward to learning more about these machines so I can contribute as well.

There are very few reels on the market here in NC so I overpaid on a GreensKing 522 ($600). it was supposed to be in perfect working order and seems in good shape all together but during my first cut it jammed up and stopped moving. Wiggled it around a bit and the clutch disc fell out and is definitely damaged!

After looking online it seems this disc comes as 2 parts so my main question in replacing it is should I be buying any other parts with it? If it's normally a split disc I don't imagine it would fall out unless something else was messed up but I'm unsure. I plan to disassemble and take pics to post here but wanted to put it up quickly in the event this is a known issue with these machines.

We had new Tahoma 31 sod installed 2 years ago and it looked amazing. My primary mower is a Husqvarna 450x automower which we maintain at .4in. This keeps us good 98% of the year but I neglected to scalp the last growing season(in my defense I tried, borrowed a McLane and it just couldn't do the job). It definitely set the yard back and this year I resolved to do it right and buy a reel mower for scalping. I wouldn't mind trying to tackle a restore project but with a 1 and 3 year old time is at a premium(hence the robot mower.

Thank you!

Brian


----------



## MasterMech

brschmitt said:


> Afternoon!
> 
> This is my first post here or on any forum but my wife says the yard better look perfect this year or else! I put my general situation below my question for more information if interested. Thank you in advance! Glad to be part of the group, looking forward to learning more about these machines so I can contribute as well.
> 
> There are very few reels on the market here in NC so I overpaid on a GreensKing 522 ($600). it was supposed to be in perfect working order and seems in good shape all together but during my first cut it jammed up and stopped moving. Wiggled it around a bit and the clutch disc fell out and is definitely damaged!
> 
> After looking online it seems this disc comes as 2 parts so my main question in replacing it is should I be buying any other parts with it? If it's normally a split disc I don't imagine it would fall out unless something else was messed up but I'm unsure. I plan to disassemble and take pics to post here but wanted to put it up quickly in the event this is a known issue with these machines.
> 
> We had new Tahoma 31 sod installed 2 years ago and it looked amazing. My primary mower is a Husqvarna 450x automower which we maintain at .4in. This keeps us good 98% of the year but I neglected to scalp the last growing season(in my defense I tried, borrowed a McLane and it just couldn't do the job). It definitely set the yard back and this year I resolved to do it right and buy a reel mower for scalping. I wouldn't mind trying to tackle a restore project but with a 1 and 3 year old time is at a premium(hence the robot mower.
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Brian


If the clutch friction disc is able to simply fall out, I'd check the position of the clutch shaft and the sliding disc. Normally this disc is held captive in the clutch body/basket by the sliding disc. I'd tear it down first, observe the condition of the sliding disc and the clutch shaft disc in addition to the supporting parts. Then make your parts order.

At a minimum, plan on ordering 9, 10, 13 and inspect carefully or plan on replacing 12, 15, 16, 17 in addition to 6 and 11 if they show signs of abnormal wear.

https://www.rrproducts.com/jacobsen-greens-king-522-traction-unit-clutch.html


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

MasterMech said:


> Joeeeekkkkk said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like an early 522. Likely closing in on 20 years old but most parts are still available. Very popular model over the years too.
> 
> Caveat - no reels available with less than 11 blades. Not ideal for taller cut heights but not unworkable either.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply! Didn't end up seeing it today but hopefully will work out sometime this week to take a look.
> 
> I know pictures are hard to judge but any opinion on the looks of this thing? I'm far from an expert so would be tough for me to even make a conclusion on it once I see it in person.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The parking brake assemblies have been removed, this may actually be a blessing. :lol: It looks to be fairly typical for the age and model. Engine is not original (original engines had orange sheet metal), but as long as it runs, I see no issue. The one thing I'd probably want to change would be the front roller. Smooth is great for greens, tends to float too much on .250"-.500"+ Bermuda for my liking. It's also missing the transport wheels (no biggie) and the grass catcher (bigger deal IMO) so if you want those, it will cost a few beans.
> 
> $500 for the machine,
> 
> Recommended:
> 
> $270 for a grass catcher (told ya it was a bigger deal :bd: )
> $180 for a heavy grooved front roller
> 
> We're at $950 so far. which isn't terrible for a well-optioned greens mower (with no running/cutting issues) IMO, especially given the current market. Yes, this machine is old, and you may see slightly newer 522's sell for similar money. But if they aren't local to you, I think I'd take this unit over shipping one in sight-unseen.
> 
> Optional:
> 
> Transport Wheel Kit - $200
Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed reply. Definitely helpful! Yes no wheels or catcher with the unit and I know the catcher is pricey.

I will hopefully get to see it in person this week. You mention the parking brake and that being removed. What exactly are the pros/cons of that?

Thanks again


----------



## brschmitt

MasterMech said:


> brschmitt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Afternoon!
> 
> This is my first post here or on any forum but my wife says the yard better look perfect this year or else! I put my general situation below my question for more information if interested. Thank you in advance! Glad to be part of the group, looking forward to learning more about these machines so I can contribute as well.
> 
> There are very few reels on the market here in NC so I overpaid on a GreensKing 522 ($600). it was supposed to be in perfect working order and seems in good shape all together but during my first cut it jammed up and stopped moving. Wiggled it around a bit and the clutch disc fell out and is definitely damaged!
> 
> After looking online it seems this disc comes as 2 parts so my main question in replacing it is should I be buying any other parts with it? If it's normally a split disc I don't imagine it would fall out unless something else was messed up but I'm unsure. I plan to disassemble and take pics to post here but wanted to put it up quickly in the event this is a known issue with these machines.
> 
> We had new Tahoma 31 sod installed 2 years ago and it looked amazing. My primary mower is a Husqvarna 450x automower which we maintain at .4in. This keeps us good 98% of the year but I neglected to scalp the last growing season(in my defense I tried, borrowed a McLane and it just couldn't do the job). It definitely set the yard back and this year I resolved to do it right and buy a reel mower for scalping. I wouldn't mind trying to tackle a restore project but with a 1 and 3 year old time is at a premium(hence the robot mower.
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Brian
> 
> 
> 
> If the clutch friction disc is able to simply fall out, I'd check the position of the clutch shaft and the sliding disc. Normally this disc is held captive in the clutch body/basket by the sliding disc. I'd tear it down first, observe the condition of the sliding disc and the clutch shaft disc in addition to the supporting parts. Then make your parts order.
> 
> At a minimum, plan on ordering 9, 10, 13 and inspect carefully or plan on replacing 12, 15, 16, 17 in addition to 6 and 11 if they show signs of abnormal wear.
> 
> https://www.rrproducts.com/jacobsen-greens-king-522-traction-unit-clutch.html
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information and the shopping list.

It looks like the shaft is still in good condition, no wobble or anything like that. I've attached some pictures to see if anything stands out. One thing I did notice is that the main bearing(12) spins without much drag but not perfectly. Not sure how much resistance this is supposed to have but I'm going to order one just incase.


----------



## MasterMech

That clutch body should surround the disc assemblies. Has it moved on the engine crankshaft?


----------



## Jcoffeyy

Lol forgive my ignorance, but I'm struggling to remove the clutch shaft even with the Jacobsen manual.

Can anyone give me a quick walkthrough on the 518a? Do you remove the engine mount and it slides out from the belt case side? Also, is there any lubrication I need to apply for the assembly to slide more freely? It's getting stuck engaged and the traction is taking off on startup.

I need to replace the curved washer that sits near the clutch disc and have the part from R&R but am struggling to get to the thin rusty one that's existing.


----------



## MasterMech

Pull the 4 bolts holding the engine mount plate to the frame, this will get the whole engine assembly out of your way. Don't lose the spacers.

If you haven't already, you'll need to pull the belt cover and remove the screw at pos 50.

https://www.rrproducts.com/jacobsen-greens-king-522-traction-unit-clutch.html

Then the clutch shaft should slide right out of the bearing assembly.


----------



## brschmitt

MasterMech said:


> That clutch body should surround the disc assemblies. Has it moved on the engine crankshaft?


Yes exactly! I believe the clutch body came loose and destroyed the clutch disc. All parts should be arriving today so I should be able to get mowing in time for a proper scalp. Thanks again for the help!

This experience has me itching for a deeper rebuild.


----------



## CoachWoo

Greetings all! This thread and forum have been a great source of info!

I have an old Jacobsen (62237 2392) that I got last summer for cheap. Put a new carb in it and had been running great.

Most recent cut though there was some delay when I engaged the clutch before it would take off. That got progressively worse. It would bog down on the green, but titling it up would get the reel going again. I then did the clutch adjustment outlined in the manual, and with the reel not engaged, everything works fine. But when I have the reel engaged, it doesn't want to go. I can push it and the reel spins and it will pick up speed, but if I don't keep up the momentum, it will stop. 
The reel spins easily by hand. And with reel not engaged, the drive kicks in fine.

Could this be a belt issue? Something obvious I'm missing? Any help/ideas would be great.

Thanks!


----------



## MasterMech

CoachWoo said:


> Greetings all! This thread and forum have been a great source of info!
> 
> I have an old Jacobsen (62237 2392) that I got last summer for cheap. Put a new carb in it and had been running great.
> 
> Most recent cut though there was some delay when I engaged the clutch before it would take off. That got progressively worse. It would bog down on the green, but titling it up would get the reel going again. I then did the clutch adjustment outlined in the manual, and with the reel not engaged, everything works fine. But when I have the reel engaged, it doesn't want to go. I can push it and the reel spins and it will pick up speed, but if I don't keep up the momentum, it will stop.
> The reel spins easily by hand. And with reel not engaged, the drive kicks in fine.
> 
> Could this be a belt issue? Something obvious I'm missing? Any help/ideas would be great.
> 
> Thanks!


Assuming the engine is 100%

This still sound's like a problem with the main clutch.

Have you taken out the friction disc halves to inspect?

Is there enough spring tension on the sliding disc to hold the clutch engaged?


----------



## booneatl

I managed to replace my broken belt but am having another issue. This has been a problem all last season before my belt broke.

GreensKing 518A

When I first bought this mower and would engage OPC lever the mower would take off almost pulling me behind it. Now it is very slow. I did a scalp yesterday and it runs fine but is a very slow walk with no giddy up and go..... At first I thought it was the engine and began playing with the idle and engine speed. Now I'm thinking it may be this part which I don't know what to call it. The shifter is engaged and the reel shifter is also engaged.

Well, I started tinkering around with it and now I'm not getting the rear drum to engage at all when the OPC lever is pulled.
Am I working on the right thing for my problem?

Another issue is this shifter. I greased it while it was apart and think I put back properly with the ball bearing, spring, and set screw but it doesn't want to move easily from engaged to not engaged. 


Thank you for any help. Unfortunately I'm working all weekend so it will be Monday before I can begin this battle again.


----------



## brschmitt

brschmitt said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> That clutch body should surround the disc assemblies. Has it moved on the engine crankshaft?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes exactly! I believe the clutch body came loose and destroyed the clutch disc. All parts should be arriving today so I should be able to get mowing in time for a proper scalp. Thanks again for the help!
> 
> This experience has me itching for a deeper rebuild.
Click to expand...

MasterMech, your suggestion worked perfectly. Everything is engaging now and sounds stronger than ever. I think the spring washer was a little weak so replacing it seems to have fixed the power transmission to the reel and it's really moving. (I think someone else posted about a problem that might be solved by this as well).

I'm quickly catching up to speed on these units. Replaced the bedknife, broke 5 out of 13 screws and 20/20 slot heads. Drilled out 5 screws with 12 drill bits and finally taped all holes on the bed bar again, like new! :lol:

I was thinking about adding a groomer to the unit. I've seen a couple OEMS going for around 500 but they only specify "works with 22" reel" I've dug for a while and cant seem to find a reason it wouldn't work on my 522a. Any thoughts?


----------



## MasterMech

booneatl said:


> I managed to replace my broken belt but am having another issue. This has been a problem all last season before my belt broke.
> 
> GreensKing 518A
> 
> When I first bought this mower and would engage OPC lever the mower would take off almost pulling me behind it. Now it is very slow. I did a scalp yesterday and it runs fine but is a very slow walk with no giddy up and go..... At first I thought it was the engine and began playing with the idle and engine speed. Now I'm thinking it may be this part which I don't know what to call it. The shifter is engaged and the reel shifter is also engaged.
> ....
> Well, I started tinkering around with it and now I'm not getting the rear drum to engage at all when the OPC lever is pulled.
> Am I working on the right thing for my problem?
> 
> Another issue is this shifter. I greased it while it was apart and think I put back properly with the ball bearing, spring, and set screw but it doesn't want to move easily from engaged to not engaged.
> ....
> 
> Thank you for any help. Unfortunately I'm working all weekend so it will be Monday before I can begin this battle again.


I would start by adjusting the clutch friction disc clearance via the service manual procedures.

RE: The traction clutch shifter - If backing off on the detent ball spring tension doesn't fix it, replace the lever. You only need enough spring load to hold the lever in either position. Also, check that the guide setscrew isn't too tight.


----------



## MasterMech

brschmitt said:


> brschmitt said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> That clutch body should surround the disc assemblies. Has it moved on the engine crankshaft?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes exactly! I believe the clutch body came loose and destroyed the clutch disc. All parts should be arriving today so I should be able to get mowing in time for a proper scalp. Thanks again for the help!
> 
> This experience has me itching for a deeper rebuild.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> MasterMech, your suggestion worked perfectly. Everything is engaging now and sounds stronger than ever. I think the spring washer was a little weak so replacing it seems to have fixed the power transmission to the reel and it's really moving. (I think someone else posted about a problem that might be solved by this as well).
> 
> I'm quickly catching up to speed on these units. Replaced the bedknife, broke 5 out of 13 screws and 20/20 slot heads. Drilled out 5 screws with 12 drill bits and finally taped all holes on the bed bar again, like new! :lol:
> 
> I was thinking about adding a groomer to the unit. I've seen a couple OEMS going for around 500 but they only specify "works with 22" reel" I've dug for a while and cant seem to find a reason it wouldn't work on my 522a. Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

I haven't installed one or tried transferring one from one machine to the next. There should be no major differences between the 522's generational variations. Most changes were to the handles and controls, the plate clutch assembly, and some covers. The powertrain configuration and frames have all been consistent IME. $500 for a new OEM unit or a used take-off?


----------



## brschmitt

MasterMech said:


> brschmitt said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> brschmitt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yes exactly! I believe the clutch body came loose and destroyed the clutch disc. All parts should be arriving today so I should be able to get mowing in time for a proper scalp. Thanks again for the help!
> 
> This experience has me itching for a deeper rebuild.
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech, your suggestion worked perfectly. Everything is engaging now and sounds stronger than ever. I think the spring washer was a little weak so replacing it seems to have fixed the power transmission to the reel and it's really moving. (I think someone else posted about a problem that might be solved by this as well).
> 
> I'm quickly catching up to speed on these units. Replaced the bedknife, broke 5 out of 13 screws and 20/20 slot heads. Drilled out 5 screws with 12 drill bits and finally taped all holes on the bed bar again, like new! :lol:
> 
> I was thinking about adding a groomer to the unit. I've seen a couple OEMS going for around 500 but they only specify "works with 22" reel" I've dug for a while and cant seem to find a reason it wouldn't work on my 522a. Any thoughts?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I haven't installed one or tried transferring one from one machine to the next. There should be no major differences between the 522's generational variations. Most changes were to the handles and controls, the plate clutch assembly, and some covers. The powertrain configuration and frames have all been consistent IME. $500 for a new OEM unit or a used take-off?
Click to expand...

From what I can tell it's a new OEM unit. Part numbers seem to line up with the PGM and not the 522 but the optimist in me says what would Jacobsen change on the lower part of that platform? From the manuals of the PGM version and the GK version they look to to be the same but I haven't gone part for part.


----------



## MasterMech

brschmitt said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> brschmitt said:
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech, your suggestion worked perfectly. Everything is engaging now and sounds stronger than ever. I think the spring washer was a little weak so replacing it seems to have fixed the power transmission to the reel and it's really moving. (I think someone else posted about a problem that might be solved by this as well).
> 
> I'm quickly catching up to speed on these units. Replaced the bedknife, broke 5 out of 13 screws and 20/20 slot heads. Drilled out 5 screws with 12 drill bits and finally taped all holes on the bed bar again, like new! :lol:
> 
> I was thinking about adding a groomer to the unit. I've seen a couple OEMS going for around 500 but they only specify "works with 22" reel" I've dug for a while and cant seem to find a reason it wouldn't work on my 522a. Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't installed one or tried transferring one from one machine to the next. There should be no major differences between the 522's generational variations. Most changes were to the handles and controls, the plate clutch assembly, and some covers. The powertrain configuration and frames have all been consistent IME. $500 for a new OEM unit or a used take-off?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> From what I can tell it's a new OEM unit. Part numbers seem to line up with the PGM and not the 522 but the optimist in me says what would Jacobsen change on the lower part of that platform? From the manuals of the PGM version and the GK version they look to to be the same but I haven't gone part for part.
Click to expand...

The powertrain is completely different on a PGM vs the GK5xx units. Even if the groomer and right-side drive parts are the same - does the PGM chaincase have the exact same flange and location for the left-side access cover?

Good price if it will work for you.


----------



## Jcoffeyy

I got my clutch shaft out (thanks to mastermech) and found a chunk sheared out of it. I'm at a point now where I'm not positive if it's worth it to pour money into this.

Looking at R&R my replacement clutch shaft is like $440. It's likely my reel and bedknife should be replaced. My question is, is it worth it to rebuild this thing?


----------



## GALawn

I finally took the plunge and grabbed myself a greens mower. I picked up an older Tournament Cut 22. I replaced the carb and the motor seems to be running good. I need to replace the bed knife which is proving difficult to source. Best I can tell the part number is different from the GreensKing 22 bed knife. I counted the mounting holes and the TC has 11. I have scoured the R&R site and searched google but I'm coming up empty.

Anybody have a line on where to find the bed knives or an alternative solution or part number?


----------



## trashpanda

Bed knife for the TC22 is from Baroness LM56, I think you have to order from Baroness.

https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=415182#p415182


----------



## MasterMech

@GALawn - The Tournament Cut 22 is a Baroness wearing Jake handles. See @trashpanda's link.


----------



## GALawn

MasterMech said:


> @GALawn - The Tournament Cut 22 is a Baroness wearing Jake handles. See @trashpanda's link.


I'm starting to wonder if the gas tank from my mower might have lead me astray with the labeling. This looks more like one of the 522 mowers than the Baroness/TC mowers I'm seeing. I realize I could probably run the serial number but was just trying to figure it out. Dropped the mower off at a local golf course today so I don't have it in my garage right now.


----------



## booneatl

MasterMech said:


> I would start by adjusting the clutch friction disc clearance via the service manual procedures.
> 
> RE: The traction clutch shifter - If backing off on the detent ball spring tension doesn't fix it, replace the lever. You only need enough spring load to hold the lever in either position. Also, check that the guide setscrew isn't too tight.


Ok, sorry for all of the questions and I really appreciate your taking the time to help. I fixed the shifter problem by taking your advice.

I'm not sure what you mean by the clutch friction disc. Is this the same as the bearing? Regardless, my bearing is not spinning with everything engaged.


I have adjusted the clutch fingers and they are touching the bearing, which is what my manual says to do. Also, if this makes a difference this model has a disc pressure plate type clutch. My manual says to adjust from 0.06 to touching between 
the clutch fingers and bearing.

Keep in mind everything was working before I began tinkering with the clutch cable system. Just not moving that fast but cutting fine.


----------



## MasterMech

GALawn said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> @GALawn - The Tournament Cut 22 is a Baroness wearing Jake handles. See @trashpanda's link.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm starting to wonder if the gas tank from my mower might have lead me astray with the labeling. This looks more like one of the 522 mowers than the Baroness/TC mowers I'm seeing. I realize I could probably run the serial number but was just trying to figure it out. Dropped the mower off at a local golf course today so I don't have it in my garage right now.
Click to expand...

That for sure is a GreensKing 522a wearing the wrong decal on the tank. :bd:


----------



## MasterMech

booneatl said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> I would start by adjusting the clutch friction disc clearance via the service manual procedures.
> 
> RE: The traction clutch shifter - If backing off on the detent ball spring tension doesn't fix it, replace the lever. You only need enough spring load to hold the lever in either position. Also, check that the guide setscrew isn't too tight.
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, sorry for all of the questions and I really appreciate your taking the time to help. I fixed the shifter problem by taking your advice.
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean by the clutch friction disc. Is this the same as the bearing? Regardless, my bearing is not spinning with everything engaged.
> 
> 
> I have adjusted the clutch fingers and they are touching the bearing, which is what my manual says to do. Also, if this makes a difference this model has a disc pressure plate type clutch. My manual says to adjust from 0.06 to touching between
> the clutch fingers and bearing.
> 
> Keep in mind everything was working before I began tinkering with the clutch cable system. Just not moving that fast but cutting fine.
Click to expand...

Let's reference this drawing.

https://www.rrproducts.com/jacobsen-greens-king-522-traction-unit-clutch.html

The friction disc (Pos 9) is the 2-piece disc that gets sandwiched in-between the two discs on the output shaft (Pos 6). When you engage the clutch, the fingers 9(Pos 34) push the bearing (Pos 12) and in-turn, the sliding disc (Pos 11), sideways along the wear sleeve (Pos 13) and put pressure on the friction disc. Once there's enough pressure on the fiction disc, it will lock the fixed disc on the shaft to the clutch basket/body (Pos 46) that's mounted on the engine crankshaft. The sluggish performance of your machine is due to excessive slippage in this system. Either the friction disc is worn out or there's not enough spring pressure against it to create the necessary friction.

The outer race of the bearing should not spin if the clutch is engaged. It's sandwiched between the sliding disc and the clutch fingers but the inner race contacts the sliding disc first. This allows the clutch fingers to push on the sliding disc without the rotating sliding disc wearing out the clutch fingers. The inner race of the bearing should be free to slide axially along the shaft. With the clutch disengaged/released, there is a small gap allowed (that's your 0- .060") and outer race of the bearing may spin.

With the clutch engaged - the amount of pressure on the friction disc is controlled by the springs (Pos 38/40) and the length of the bolt (Pos 39). If the OPC bail is pulled tight to the handle, the spring must be compressed to the minimum dimension, 1 3/4". If it's too long, check that the cable clamp (Pos 44) isn't set too long. It should always be set against the end of the bolt with the clutch disengaged, the bail against the stop, and all slack pulled out of the cable. I'd also make sure the springs look correct, if the wrong spring (Pos 38 OR 40) is installed, the clutch may not work properly.


----------



## booneatl

MasterMech said:


> Let's reference this drawing.
> 
> https://www.rrproducts.com/jacobsen-greens-king-522-traction-unit-clutch.html
> 
> The friction disc (Pos 9) is the 2-piece disc that gets sandwiched in-between the two discs on the output shaft (Pos 6). When you engage the clutch, the fingers 9(Pos 34) push the bearing (Pos 12) and in-turn, the sliding disc (Pos 11), sideways along the wear sleeve (Pos 13) and put pressure on the friction disc. Once there's enough pressure on the fiction disc, it will lock the fixed disc on the shaft to the clutch basket/body (Pos 46) that's mounted on the engine crankshaft. The sluggish performance of your machine is due to excessive slippage in this system. Either the friction disc is worn out or there's not enough spring pressure against it to create the necessary friction.
> 
> The outer race of the bearing should not spin if the clutch is engaged. It's sandwiched between the sliding disc and the clutch fingers but the inner race contacts the sliding disc first. This allows the clutch fingers to push on the sliding disc without the rotating sliding disc wearing out the clutch fingers. The inner race of the bearing should be free to slide axially along the shaft. With the clutch disengaged/released, there is a small gap allowed (that's your 0- .060") and outer race of the bearing may spin.
> 
> With the clutch engaged - the amount of pressure on the friction disc is controlled by the springs (Pos 38/40) and the length of the bolt (Pos 39). If the OPC bail is pulled tight to the handle, the spring must be compressed to the minimum dimension, 1 3/4". If it's too long, check that the cable clamp (Pos 44) isn't set too long. It should always be set against the end of the bolt with the clutch disengaged, the bail against the stop, and all slack pulled out of the cable. I'd also make sure the springs look correct, if the wrong spring (Pos 38 OR 40) is installed, the clutch may not work properly.


Thank you very much for this detailed explanation. I will go back to battle with this thing over the weekend. I have two 12 hour night shifts coming up so I'll try and digest this and figure out my next attack.

Thank you!!


----------



## booneatl

And now the engine won't start!!  This thing is going to be the death of me. I believe I have adjusted as necessary but for some reason the $*%$$$^ thing won't start. It was starting up the other day on the first pull.

I guess I'm going to take the carb apart and clean it out. I understand more of how this clutch works and was wondering if it's possible to diagnose the worn out part without the engine running? I'm not seeing the friction disc locking into place when I manually turn the reel with everything engaged. I believe I read it requires a certain rpm to engage but wanted to make sure. I'd like to order any necessary parts while I fight with the engine.

I may make the news this weekend so stay tuned. :shock:


----------



## MasterMech

booneatl said:


> And now the engine won't start!!  This thing is going to be the death of me. I believe I have adjusted as necessary but for some reason the $*%$$$^ thing won't start. It was starting up the other day on the first pull.
> 
> I guess I'm going to take the carb apart and clean it out. I understand more of how this clutch works and was wondering if it's possible to diagnose the worn out part without the engine running? I'm not seeing the friction disc locking into place when I manually turn the reel with everything engaged. I believe I read it requires a certain rpm to engage but wanted to make sure. I'd like to order any necessary parts while I fight with the engine.
> 
> I may make the news this weekend so stay tuned. :shock:


RPM is not a factor with the plate-style clutch. They will lock/release regardless of engine RPM.

Make sure the oil level sensor is not preventing the engine from starting. Disconnecting it should allow the engine to start, just make sure theirs oil in the crankcase!


----------



## booneatl

MasterMech said:


> RPM is not a factor with the plate-style clutch. They will lock/release regardless of engine RPM.
> 
> Make sure the oil level sensor is not preventing the engine from starting. Disconnecting it should allow the engine to start, just make sure theirs oil in the crankcase!


Yes, I thought of the oil sensor and that was my first check. I ended up taking the carb apart and it was a mess. I must have had a clogged jet or something. I cleaned it up and in the process ripped the fuel hose and overtightened the bottom screw on the float bowl :shock: . It started leaking fuel from the screw but despite these troubles it started right away. Luckily, I had completely filled the tank with gas. :roll:

Ran to the local repair shop and replaced the fuel line, float bowl due the stripped out screw, and put new gaskets on as well.
Now I'm back to where I started but it will wait until tomorrow.


----------



## booneatl

New day.........Finally success!! :dancenana: Thank you MasterMech for all of your help!!

I was not tightening the screw allowing enough pressure on the clutch fingers. I also didn't have enough play between the clutch springs to allow the arm to move as it should.

I didn't have any play at this screw which wasn't giving the arm any movement when the opc bail was squeezed. With a few adjustments this is taking off again and my speed has greatly improved. I don't think any of the clutch componets are worn out.........yet.......but time will tell.


----------



## Jack2012

Could someone let me know the part # for the high cut brackets to suit Eclipse II 122 fixed head thanks?


----------



## MasterMech

Jack2012 said:


> Could someone let me know the part # for the high cut brackets to suit Eclipse II 122 fixed head thanks?


Fixed head Eclipse units use the same bracket as the GreensKing 500 series.

From R&R:

R2000072 - Tall Bracket
R2000040 - Std Bracket

Actual Jacobsen part number is 2000040. Which is coincidentally R&R's part number for the standard roller bracket. I think R&R has their wires crossed on that one.

From Jacobsen:

2000072 - Std Bracket
2000040 - Tall Bracket

The 62285 reference is the 7-blade reel version of the GreensKing 526 intended to mow at heights ≥ .375" (10mm).


----------



## Rowdy

Hey guys this mower is for sale near me for $200. Ad says it runs and cuts but needs work. Also says it's a 400 series. 
Are parts easy to come by for these?


----------



## MasterMech

Rowdy said:


> Hey guys this mower is for sale near me for $200. Ad says it runs and cuts but needs work. Also says it's a 400 series.
> Are parts easy to come by for these?


The 422 should share many/most parts with the 522. Consumables should be available from both Jake and R&R.


----------



## Rowdy

MasterMech said:


> Rowdy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys this mower is for sale near me for $200. Ad says it runs and cuts but needs work. Also says it's a 400 series.
> Are parts easy to come by for these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 422 should share many/most parts with the 522. Consumables should be available from both Jake and R&R.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Are there high HOC brackets for the 400 series?


----------



## TheSlowOne

Rowdy said:


> Awesome! Are there high HOC brackets for the 400 series?


Looks like the 500 series bracket will work on it with a new front roller, but the groomer attachment housing and roller will have to go. The brackets and roller are already getting you close to the price of the mower.


----------



## MasterMech

Rowdy said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rowdy said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys this mower is for sale near me for $200. Ad says it runs and cuts but needs work. Also says it's a 400 series.
> Are parts easy to come by for these?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 422 should share many/most parts with the 522. Consumables should be available from both Jake and R&R.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Awesome! Are there high HOC brackets for the 400 series?
Click to expand...

@TheSlowOne is correct. The groomer has to go if you want to go higher than 7/16". That's not the end of the world at the price this machine is asking, but it is a shame. I'd give it a go @ 7/16" with the groomer first.


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

Picked up a used green king and am having issues with the rear wheel drive engaging. Belts are fine, so thinking it may be the lever on the side? If I get it into the right position after messing with it a bit the drive will work but it vibrates out of place. Would replacing this alone fix my issue? Looks pretty worn to me.


----------



## MasterMech

That thing is hammered. I'd replace it for sure. May be worth pulling the belt cover and checking out the clutch prongs to ensure they aren't worn out before you order parts.

Part #1000056 (Pos 30) on this breakdown.


----------



## Brent_K

I purchased an Eclipse 2 122f from the Ritchie Bros auction a couple weeks back and just got it delivered today. Everything seems to work fine. Fired right up, controls work, reel spins...
It needs a backlap so I propped it on the kickstand and I went into backlap mode. It only spins backwards for about 4 seconds and then stops. I can get it to start again, but it only goes again for about 4 seconds. I don't hear any beeping or anything...Am I needing to do something else to get this to work?


----------



## Brent_K

Brent_K said:


> I purchased an Eclipse 2 122f from the Ritchie Bros auction a couple weeks back and just got it delivered today. Everything seems to work fine. Fired right up, controls work, reel spins...
> It needs a backlap so I propped it on the kickstand and I went into backlap mode. It only spins backwards for about 4 seconds and then stops. I can get it to start again, but it only goes again for about 4 seconds. I don't hear any beeping or anything...Am I needing to do something else to get this to work?


Nevermind! I figured it out. I was holding the bail and it wouldn't stay on. I realized you have to start the reel and let go and it spins for the amount of time specified. 
Now for the next issue...one of the bolts that adjusts the bedknife is stuck. I am going to get some PB Blaster and see if that works. Does anyone else have any ideas if this doesn't?


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

MasterMech said:


> That thing is hammered. I'd replace it for sure. May be worth pulling the belt cover and checking out the clutch prongs to ensure they aren't worn out before you order parts.
> 
> Part #1000056 (Pos 30) on this breakdown.


Thanks for the help. Have a replacement on the way. When the drive initially cut out I suspected a belt so took the cover off, took me a little while mainly the two little Allen bolts by the clutch lever. Idk if they were stripped but didn't seem to fit any of the wrenches I had almost like it was in between two sizes. Did manage to get them out. By the time I checked the belts which were fine I got it back on without issue. Once I read your post I was too lazy today to get that thing back off and check haha

If I end up needing it I'll have to just eat the shipping costs on another order. Question on the lever, the existing piece more or less drops right into the hole. Is there anything I will need to do with the new one or will it just slide into place?


----------



## Brent_K

Here is the mower I bought from Ritchie Bros. I tried using PB Blaster on the bedknife adjusters and it worked on one post. I snapped the other. Those things were STUCK! It looks like an easy enough fix as long as I can get the broken bolt out.

So far, I am loving this over my GK 526. I wish this one had a groomer, but beggars can't be choosers. Got it for $170, can't beat that.


----------



## MasterMech

Joeeeekkkkk said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> That thing is hammered. I'd replace it for sure. May be worth pulling the belt cover and checking out the clutch prongs to ensure they aren't worn out before you order parts.
> 
> Part #1000056 (Pos 30) on this breakdown.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help. Have a replacement on the way. When the drive initially cut out I suspected a belt so took the cover off, took me a little while mainly the two little Allen bolts by the clutch lever. Idk if they were stripped but didn't seem to fit any of the wrenches I had almost like it was in between two sizes. Did manage to get them out. By the time I checked the belts which were fine I got it back on without issue. Once I read your post I was too lazy today to get that thing back off and check haha
> 
> If I end up needing it I'll have to just eat the shipping costs on another order. Question on the lever, the existing piece more or less drops right into the hole. Is there anything I will need to do with the new one or will it just slide into place?
Click to expand...

What else is missing vs the parts breakdown?

From your picture, it's missing the o-ring (pos 73).

Do you have all of the detent balls and set screws? (Pos 71, 74, 75)

Going back in, make sure the tip of the lever engages in the groove of the clutch spool. you should be able to see the spool position through the hole in the belt cover before inserting the lever.


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

MasterMech said:


> Joeeeekkkkk said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> That thing is hammered. I'd replace it for sure. May be worth pulling the belt cover and checking out the clutch prongs to ensure they aren't worn out before you order parts.
> 
> Part #1000056 (Pos 30) on this breakdown.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the help. Have a replacement on the way. When the drive initially cut out I suspected a belt so took the cover off, took me a little while mainly the two little Allen bolts by the clutch lever. Idk if they were stripped but didn't seem to fit any of the wrenches I had almost like it was in between two sizes. Did manage to get them out. By the time I checked the belts which were fine I got it back on without issue. Once I read your post I was too lazy today to get that thing back off and check haha
> 
> If I end up needing it I'll have to just eat the shipping costs on another order. Question on the lever, the existing piece more or less drops right into the hole. Is there anything I will need to do with the new one or will it just slide into place?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What else is missing vs the parts breakdown?
> 
> From your picture, it's missing the o-ring (pos 73).
> 
> Do you have all of the detent balls and set screws? (Pos 71, 74, 75)
> 
> Going back in, make sure the tip of the lever engages in the groove of the clutch spool. you should be able to see the spool position through the hole in the belt cover before inserting the lever.
Click to expand...

I have it scheduled to be looked at hopefully next week by a local reel mower service. On top of the drive issue it has a strong smell of fuel after I shut it off and store it in the garage. Didn't run it at all today and don't smell it nearly as bad but seems like another issue for sure. Hoping to get the thing back to a solid running condition and last me a couple seasons without dumping a ton of money into it, but we'll see. Given I know nothing about the machine thinking a once over from a pro would be a good move.


----------



## gutowscr471

Need help finding this reel clutch lever on a PGM22. The offset shaft under this lever is so worn, it won't keep the clutch against thee gear pins to drive the reel. I have the part number (503438) but no luck on eBay, R&R, and Jake themselves. Appreciate any assistance on helping me find this part new or not.


----------



## swebbrrt

gutowscr471 said:


> Need help finding this reel clutch lever on a PGM22. The offset shaft under this lever is so worn, it won't keep the clutch against thee gear pins to drive the reel. I have the part number (503438) but no luck on eBay, R&R, and Jake themselves. Appreciate any assistance on helping me find this part new or not.


https://shop.txtsv.com/503438

This one?


----------



## MasterMech

swebbrrt said:


> gutowscr471 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Need help finding this reel clutch lever on a PGM22. The offset shaft under this lever is so worn, it won't keep the clutch against thee gear pins to drive the reel. I have the part number (503438) but no luck on eBay, R&R, and Jake themselves. Appreciate any assistance on helping me find this part new or not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://shop.txtsv.com/503438
> 
> This one?
Click to expand...

Link to the breakdown - https://shop.txtsv.com/vehicle/index/parts/#/Jacobsen_Turf_Care/062280_PGM_22/Left_Chain_Cover/Jacobsen_Turf_Greens_Equipment_Walk_Behind_Greens_Equipment_PGM_Series_062280_PGM_22/SCHEMATIC%7c%7e22617/y


----------



## gutowscr471

MasterMech said:


> swebbrrt said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gutowscr471 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Need help finding this reel clutch lever on a PGM22. The offset shaft under this lever is so worn, it won't keep the clutch against thee gear pins to drive the reel. I have the part number (503438) but no luck on eBay, R&R, and Jake themselves. Appreciate any assistance on helping me find this part new or not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://shop.txtsv.com/503438
> 
> This one?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Link to the breakdown - https://shop.txtsv.com/vehicle/index/parts/#/Jacobsen_Turf_Care/062280_PGM_22/Left_Chain_Cover/Jacobsen_Turf_Greens_Equipment_Walk_Behind_Greens_Equipment_PGM_Series_062280_PGM_22/SCHEMATIC%7c%7e22617/y
Click to expand...

Wow, that never came up in my google search for some reason. I need to look more at that site. I think I also need the reel gear with the 4 pins that go into the clutch (gear?) under that lever. Thank you both so much of your assistance.


----------



## gutowscr471

MasterMech said:


> swebbrrt said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gutowscr471 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Need help finding this reel clutch lever on a PGM22. The offset shaft under this lever is so worn, it won't keep the clutch against thee gear pins to drive the reel. I have the part number (503438) but no luck on eBay, R&R, and Jake themselves. Appreciate any assistance on helping me find this part new or not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> https://shop.txtsv.com/503438
> 
> This one?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Link to the breakdown - https://shop.txtsv.com/vehicle/index/parts/#/Jacobsen_Turf_Care/062280_PGM_22/Left_Chain_Cover/Jacobsen_Turf_Greens_Equipment_Walk_Behind_Greens_Equipment_PGM_Series_062280_PGM_22/SCHEMATIC%7c%7e22617/y
Click to expand...

Well, @MasterMech , parts not available for purchase. Any other tips?


----------



## swebbrrt

@gutowscr471 How buggered up is it? You could build it back up with some welds and reshape it with a file/Dremel to last until you find a replacement.


----------



## MasterMech

gutowscr471 said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> swebbrrt said:
> 
> 
> 
> https://shop.txtsv.com/503438
> 
> This one?
> 
> 
> 
> Link to the breakdown - https://shop.txtsv.com/vehicle/index/parts/#/Jacobsen_Turf_Care/062280_PGM_22/Left_Chain_Cover/Jacobsen_Turf_Greens_Equipment_Walk_Behind_Greens_Equipment_PGM_Series_062280_PGM_22/SCHEMATIC%7c%7e22617/y
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well, @MasterMech , parts not available for purchase. Any other tips?
Click to expand...

@swebbrrt has a good suggestion. If you don't have the tools, bring it to a machine shop and it's a fairly simple repair for them.

Who want's to send one of these to R&R and beg them to model it for production? :|


----------



## gutowscr471

swebbrrt said:


> @gutowscr471 How buggered up is it? You could build it back up with some welds and reshape it with a file/Dremel to last until you find a replacement.


@swebbrrt ,
I doesn't look terrible, just worn a little but not sure if that is the problem or not. Just haven't had time to really focus on it, just trying to understand how this works, seems simple so unsure why reel engages 'sometimes'. I see that it pushes the clutch to the gear with the pins to engage the reel.


----------



## shan0mak

Hello! First post. New to all of this so go easy on me!

I have these 3 mowers listed locally. I think they are Jacobsen's. Any info on value and use appreciated! I'd like to cut my 2500 sqft front lawn with a reel mower. Somewhere between .5-1.5"

Thanks!!


----------



## DustinG2020

Anyone have an extra bedknife for a Greens King 518A??


----------



## DustinG2020

Anyone have an extra bedknife for a Greens King 518A??


----------



## MasterMech

shan0mak said:


> Hello! First post. New to all of this so go easy on me!
> 
> I have these 3 mowers listed locally. I think they are Jacobsen's. Any info on value and use appreciated! I'd like to cut my 2500 sqft front lawn with a reel mower. Somewhere between .5-1.5"
> 
> Thanks!!


Older than my memory. I'd say these date back into at least the the 70's. Looks like 2-stroke engines. Would be very cool to own and restore, maybe cut with occasionally. I'd be a little concerned about parts if using it regularly however. Especially with the availability of machines that are 10-15 years old vs 50.


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

Question regarding the drive and reel levers.

My drive lever keeps vibrating out of place and kills the drive as mentioned in earlier post. I'm assuming there is a specific direction it should be inserted? Next step tighten the two hex screws? Is that correct? I was hoping the issue I was having was due to the screws not being tight enough but not so sure.


----------



## Joeeeekkkkk

Same question above but on the reel as well. Can't seem to get it in the right position


----------



## Johnl445

There are some upgraded parts available at R&R that are used on their own greens mower. I picked up the front light, hoc bracket with zero fitting, and a protective housing(heavy duty) reel axl. I also changed out the spring assembly on the wheels. These newer parts are of better quality than the originals.


----------



## MasterMech

Johnl445 said:


> There are some upgraded parts available at R&R that are used on their own greens mower. I picked up the front light, hoc bracket with zero fitting, and a protective housing(heavy duty) reel axl. I also changed out the spring assembly on the wheels. These newer parts are of better quality than the originals.


I concur. Those catcher brackets especially are waaaaaay better than the originals. R&R also carries the centrifugal clutch for the newer machines and while it's not cheap, it's cheaper than ordering from Jake.


----------



## Johnl445

@MasterMech ive been mowing at 3/4", the original brackets wouldn't last long.


----------



## MasterMech

Johnl445 said:


> @MasterMech ive been mowing at 3/4", the original brackets wouldn't last long.


If ya know... ya know... :lol:


----------



## ergray3

I was gifted a Jacobsen Eclipse 122F gen-set with about 250 hours on it. Needed sharpening and greasing but was otherwise in good shape. Max HOC on those units is 7/16" which is just too low for me. I ordered an R&R smooth minuteman roller with extended brackets (have to call for a special order) and just got it installed yesterday. Fits perfectly, doesn't hurt the quality of cut and now max HOC is around 1-1/4". I cut at 1 inch and the grass looks way better than at 7/16. Thought I'd post my positive experience about it as I hadn't seen much increasing HOC on the 122Fs.





Next up is figuring out how to get a grass catcher that isn't made anymore. The brackets are removable, so I'm thinking it might be wise to exchange the original brackets for a different style. Any input would be appreciated.


----------



## MasterMech

ergray3 said:


> I was gifted a Jacobsen Eclipse 122F gen-set with about 250 hours on it. Needed sharpening and greasing but was otherwise in good shape. Max HOC on those units is 7/16" which is just too low for me. I ordered an R&R smooth minuteman roller with extended brackets (have to call for a special order) and just got it installed yesterday. Fits perfectly, doesn't hurt the quality of cut and now max HOC is around 1-1/4". I cut at 1 inch and the grass looks way better than at 7/16. Thought I'd post my positive experience about it as I hadn't seen much increasing HOC on the 122Fs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is figuring out how to get a grass catcher that isn't made anymore. The brackets are removable, so I'm thinking it might be wise to exchange the original brackets for a different style. Any input would be appreciated.


Not sure on how to help with the grass catcher issue. Adapting to whatever you have available makes sense. There was this post from 6+ months ago if you want to try and make contact.

Re: HoC - These units (Eclipse and Eclipse2 118F, 122F) use the same roller brackets as the PGM, and Triplex/Fairway cutting units. (The GreensKing IV Triplex is a good unit to use when looking up high HoC parts as it lists the lower HoC parts as well on the same drawings.) The cutting unit is essentially the same as a right-hand cutting unit from those machines and the full complement of OEM rollers can be used with the brackets listed below. Of course, R&R's MinuteMan UHMW rollers will work too, good info on being able to special order tall brackets!

153979 - Std HoC Roller Bracket (L)
153980 - Std HoC Roller Bracket (R)
163231 - Tall HoC Roller Bracket (L)
163232 - Tall HoC Roller Bracket (R)


----------



## ergray3

MasterMech said:


> Re: HoC - These units (Eclipse and Eclipse2 118F, 122F) use the same roller brackets as the PGM, and Triplex/Fairway cutting units. (The GreensKing IV Triplex is a good unit to use when looking up high HoC parts as it lists the lower HoC parts as well on the same drawings.) The cutting unit is essentially the same as a right-hand cutting unit from those machines and the full complement of OEM rollers can be used with the brackets listed below. Of course, R&R's MinuteMan UHMW rollers will work too, good info on being able to special order tall brackets!
> 
> 153979 - Std HoC Roller Bracket (L)
> 153980 - Std HoC Roller Bracket (R)
> 163231 - Tall HoC Roller Bracket (L)
> 163232 - Tall HoC Roller Bracket (R)


Shoulda asked the MasterMech first, I could've saved some money! The eclipse and floating head units weren't listed on cross reference on the RR website and so didn't come up with my searches, but having taken them apart, they do look identical to the drawing. I'm happy with the new roller though.


----------



## MasterMech

ergray3 said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> Re: HoC - These units (Eclipse and Eclipse2 118F, 122F) use the same roller brackets as the PGM, and Triplex/Fairway cutting units. (The GreensKing IV Triplex is a good unit to use when looking up high HoC parts as it lists the lower HoC parts as well on the same drawings.) The cutting unit is essentially the same as a right-hand cutting unit from those machines and the full complement of OEM rollers can be used with the brackets listed below. Of course, R&R's MinuteMan UHMW rollers will work too, good info on being able to special order tall brackets!
> 
> 153979 - Std HoC Roller Bracket (L)
> 153980 - Std HoC Roller Bracket (R)
> 163231 - Tall HoC Roller Bracket (L)
> 163232 - Tall HoC Roller Bracket (R)
> 
> 
> 
> Shoulda asked the MasterMech first, I could've saved some money! The eclipse and floating head units weren't listed on cross reference on the RR website and so didn't come up with my searches, but having taken them apart, they do look identical to the drawing. I'm happy with the new roller though.
Click to expand...

We had the grooved MinuteMan rollers on an LF3400 fairway rig mowing PRG fairways. PRG sticks to everything, especially wet, and I had less trouble with those rollers building up clippings than any of the other steel/aluminum rollers. I think you'll like the roller and they are super low maint.


----------



## ItchytriggerKB

Hey all,

Picked up these two PGM 22 this past weekend for $100ea. I'll be working on the engines this weekend to get them running, but interested in thoughts on the pick up and what you'd focus on initially or common issues to looks at.

I'll be planting a bentgrass green in the yard in the fall, but if I can get them both running may jack the HOC up on one of em for the rest of the yard.

Thanks!


----------



## MasterMech

ItchytriggerKB said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Picked up these two PGM 22 this past weekend for $100ea. I'll be working on the engines this weekend to get them running, but interested in thoughts on the pick up and what you'd focus on initially or common issues to looks at.
> 
> I'll be planting a bentgrass green in the yard in the fall, but if I can get them both running may jack the HOC up on one of em for the rest of the yard.
> 
> Thanks!


Brand spankin' new groomer kits for that machine on eBay right now for $500, which is a steal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/274095741050?hash=item3fd161187a:g:V7gAAOSwsbddzJfT


----------



## Johnl445

@MasterMech is this the same groomer kit that, with some modifications, will fit a greens king 526a?!

I found this info online

https://usermanual.wiki/Document/groomersbrochure.2337532388


----------



## claytonrex

ergray3 said:


> I was gifted a Jacobsen Eclipse 122F gen-set with about 250 hours on it. Needed sharpening and greasing but was otherwise in good shape. Max HOC on those units is 7/16" which is just too low for me. I ordered an R&R smooth minuteman roller with extended brackets (have to call for a special order) and just got it installed yesterday. Fits perfectly, doesn't hurt the quality of cut and now max HOC is around 1-1/4". I cut at 1 inch and the grass looks way better than at 7/16. Thought I'd post my positive experience about it as I hadn't seen much increasing HOC on the 122Fs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is figuring out how to get a grass catcher that isn't made anymore. The brackets are removable, so I'm thinking it might be wise to exchange the original brackets for a different style. Any input would be appreciated.


I have a 122f as well and converted it to electric, it's been awesome. https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=31381&p=495285#p495285 I also still have an extra engine and don't plan to put it back on. I imagine this particular engine with the generator on it is not super popular outside of novel use cases.

I also have a grass catcher if you have a 122f, the pictures looked more narrow than 22 inches but might have just been how it fits on my screen. I don't use my grass catcher at all, I don't bag clippings normally and I do my yearly scalp with an old McLane so that I don't put the wear on the Jacobsen.


----------



## ergray3

claytonrex said:


> ergray3 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was gifted a Jacobsen Eclipse 122F gen-set with about 250 hours on it. Needed sharpening and greasing but was otherwise in good shape. Max HOC on those units is 7/16" which is just too low for me. I ordered an R&R smooth minuteman roller with extended brackets (have to call for a special order) and just got it installed yesterday. Fits perfectly, doesn't hurt the quality of cut and now max HOC is around 1-1/4". I cut at 1 inch and the grass looks way better than at 7/16. Thought I'd post my positive experience about it as I hadn't seen much increasing HOC on the 122Fs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next up is figuring out how to get a grass catcher that isn't made anymore. The brackets are removable, so I'm thinking it might be wise to exchange the original brackets for a different style. Any input would be appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a 122f as well and converted it to electric, it's been awesome. https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=31381&p=495285#p495285 I also still have an extra engine and don't plan to put it back on. I imagine this particular engine with the generator on it is not super popular outside of novel use cases.
> 
> I also have a grass catcher if you have a 122f, the pictures looked more narrow than 22 inches but might have just been how it fits on my screen. I don't use my grass catcher at all, I don't bag clippings normally and I do my yearly scalp with an old McLane so that I don't put the wear on the Jacobsen.
Click to expand...

It's definitely a 122, as that's the MM front roller dimension I put on it. I bet the electric is pretty awesome, as quiet as that would be. I thought I'd miss the grass catcher more than I have, but so far, so good without, particularly with the prices asked on eBay etc.


----------



## MasterMech

Johnl445 said:


> @MasterMech is this the same groomer kit that, with some modifications, will fit a greens king 526a?!
> 
> I found this info online
> 
> https://usermanual.wiki/Document/groomersbrochure.2337532388


Good find on the info. Unfortunately, a PGM groomer will not fit a GK500 series, at least from what I can discern. There seem to be many, many differing parts. If there's some fabrication magic out there to make it happen, awesome, but I've not seen it yet.

Even if you were to grab an 18" or 22" groomer assembly for a GK500 series, converting it to a 26" involves a new front roller, not used on anything else, so $$$, and a new groomer reel axle in addition to any additional spacers and blades needed.


----------



## Johnl445

@MasterMech i was afraid of that answer. I think R&R products should have a half off sale on this groomer, that would get me to make the purchase.


----------



## Micah_gear

gutowscr471 said:


> gutowscr471 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> TheSlowOne said:
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I could be of more use. I don't have much more experience with the eclipse units than you. Since the motor spins I'd be more inclined to say that it could be the control unit ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
> 
> 
> 
> @TheSlowOne
> I did the Reel motor test and reel motor worked fine. Looking for a controller now as that must be the problem. Wow that reel spun fast and it was weird with my son using the traction speed control to adjust the reel speed. Anyway, next step is to find a controller. Will report back.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> All fixed. Found a good deal on a reel controller. 9 blade is awesome on the Eclipse 2 122F. Cutting at .4" and have thick bedknife.
Click to expand...

Do you have a part number and where did you get it? Think I have the same issue here. Thanks!


----------



## ItchytriggerKB

ItchytriggerKB said:


> Hey all,
> 
> Picked up these two PGM 22 this past weekend for $100ea. I'll be working on the engines this weekend to get them running, but interested in thoughts on the pick up and what you'd focus on initially or common issues to looks at.
> 
> I'll be planting a bentgrass green in the yard in the fall, but if I can get them both running may jack the HOC up on one of em for the rest of the yard.
> 
> Thanks!


I got these 22s cleaned up a bit, replaced the carbs, oil change, greased, running (for the most part). I'm having an issue when the reel is engaged, the engine bogs down and eventually will stall. Is the reel is not engaged, it drives fine.

Any thoughts?


----------



## MasterMech

ItchytriggerKB said:


> ItchytriggerKB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Picked up these two PGM 22 this past weekend for $100ea. I'll be working on the engines this weekend to get them running, but interested in thoughts on the pick up and what you'd focus on initially or common issues to looks at.
> 
> I'll be planting a bentgrass green in the yard in the fall, but if I can get them both running may jack the HOC up on one of em for the rest of the yard.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these 22s cleaned up a bit, replaced the carbs, oil change, greased, running (for the most part). I'm having an issue when the reel is engaged, the engine bogs down and eventually will stall. Is the reel is not engaged, it drives fine.
> 
> Any thoughts?
Click to expand...

How does the reel spin when it's disengaged? Have you tried spinning it by hand?


----------



## ItchytriggerKB

MasterMech said:


> ItchytriggerKB said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ItchytriggerKB said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Picked up these two PGM 22 this past weekend for $100ea. I'll be working on the engines this weekend to get them running, but interested in thoughts on the pick up and what you'd focus on initially or common issues to looks at.
> 
> I'll be planting a bentgrass green in the yard in the fall, but if I can get them both running may jack the HOC up on one of em for the rest of the yard.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these 22s cleaned up a bit, replaced the carbs, oil change, greased, running (for the most part). I'm having an issue when the reel is engaged, the engine bogs down and eventually will stall. Is the reel is not engaged, it drives fine.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> How does the reel spin when it's disengaged? Have you tried spinning it by hand?
Click to expand...

When spinning it by hand, it takes some light pressure to get it to move and there is what I would call light pressure on the reel that stops it. It was cutting paper cleaning across it so I didn't adjust the bedknife at all yet


----------



## MasterMech

ItchytriggerKB said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ItchytriggerKB said:
> 
> 
> 
> I got these 22s cleaned up a bit, replaced the carbs, oil change, greased, running (for the most part). I'm having an issue when the reel is engaged, the engine bogs down and eventually will stall. Is the reel is not engaged, it drives fine.
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> How does the reel spin when it's disengaged? Have you tried spinning it by hand?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> When spinning it by hand, it takes some light pressure to get it to move and there is what I would call light pressure on the reel that stops it. It was cutting paper cleaning across it so I didn't adjust the bedknife at all yet
Click to expand...

That shouldn't stall the engine. You can adjust the bedknife away from the reel to eliminate it as a cause though. i wonder if the engine isn't running well enough to sustain a moderate load? Choke stuck on? Throttle/governor linkage installed and adjusted correctly?


----------



## williams6966

Anybody know what model and year this is? 
Serial number 622443054


----------



## M311att

@williams6966


----------



## williams6966

M311att said:


> @williams6966


Thank you sir


----------



## williams6966

Can someone please send me a picture of the clutch cable assembly of a greens king model please. Looking for a 400 series...not sure if it's the same as 500 or not. Any info will help!!


----------



## Adrian82

gutowscr471 said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> swebbrrt said:
> 
> 
> 
> https://shop.txtsv.com/503438
> 
> This one?
> 
> 
> 
> Link to the breakdown - https://shop.txtsv.com/vehicle/index/parts/#/Jacobsen_Turf_Care/062280_PGM_22/Left_Chain_Cover/Jacobsen_Turf_Greens_Equipment_Walk_Behind_Greens_Equipment_PGM_Series_062280_PGM_22/SCHEMATIC%7c%7e22617/y
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Well, @MasterMech , parts not available for purchase. Any other tips?
Click to expand...

@gutowscr471 did you get this resolved? I am in the same boat


----------



## Sooner_37

Is this bar (shown in front of roller) needed for the grass basket? It's for a PGM 22. Thanks!


----------



## trashpanda

Anyone else see the GK526 with groomer on FB Marketplace pop-up? Little pricey but looks decent. I thought someone on here mentioned looking for 26" with groomer.


----------



## MasterMech

trashpanda said:


> Anyone else see the GK526 with groomer on FB Marketplace pop-up? Little pricey but looks decent. I thought someone on here mentioned looking for 26" with groomer.


That'd be me. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## MasterMech

Sooner_37 said:


> Is this bar (shown in front of roller) needed for the grass basket? It's for a PGM 22. Thanks!


It's a roller scraper, not necessary for the catcher.


----------



## coreystooks

@trashpanda got a link to it?


----------



## batmanfan62

Hello, I have a Jacobsen 522A. I purchased it used a couple of years ago. While mowing today, it began to slow down to the point it will no longer move forward. If I put the power on its kickstand and engage the clutch, the drum spins but makes a grinding noise. I would appreciate any thoughts on what this could be.


----------



## MasterMech

batmanfan62 said:


> Hello, I have a Jacobsen 522A. I purchased it used a couple of years ago. While mowing today, it began to slow down to the point it will no longer move forward. If I put the power on its kickstand and engage the clutch, the drum spins but makes a grinding noise. I would appreciate any thoughts on what this could be.


Assuming this only happens when the traction clutch is engaged: (Have you tried just engaging the reel and checking for the noise?)

Either the traction clutch pins (Position 30) are worn down so far they no longer engage properly. or something has let go in  the differential assembly.


----------



## JBC-1

Hello all,

I have been looking for a greens mower for a while, and just came across this. Seller had 10 units for sale (Demo's). Highest hours on a machine is 350, and lowest is 80. Costs are $1250 - $1750 depending on which one.

Few questions for the experts...

What should I be looking for when I go see them?

My goal is to cut at 1" or above. From reading this thread, I can achieve that by changing the HOC brackets...but would this mower be suitable for my HOC goal?


----------



## MasterMech

1" and above really isn't greens mower territory as 1" is the practical ceiling for these units. If you are afraid of going low because of the additional maintenance, PGR regimens, etc. Just know that it's not dramatically more work to mow at .750" than 1", especially if you are already using PGR.

The Eclipse 2 122f is pretty flexible from a setup standpoint. Most of them are going to be setup to mow at .500" or less, and usually are setup for greens at around .125". Changing the setup to mow tall is possible, but is going to be fairly pricey. 7 blade reels and heavy bed knives are available which you are def going to want for .750"+. Knowing that you will probably swap the reel and knife, I think I'd take the lowest cost unit of the bunch assuming the cosmetics are acceptable. You also are probably going to want to swap front rollers on the cutting unit if working with .750" to 1" grass. A heavy steel grooved roller will do, but swapping to a roller intended for a fairway cutting unit may be of even further benefit. Also, if you won't be using the bagger - I think I'd fabricobble a spacer of some sort and remove the grass basket frame. If the units don't come with grass baskets, you may have trouble getting one as there is no aftermarket replacement available and they don't appear to be available through Jacobsen parts. Perhaps they list it as a Whole Good now but other members have mentioned these as being difficult to come by.


----------



## JBC-1

@MasterMech ...Wow, thank you for the detailed reply. I did not know that I would need to change the reel and knife just to be able to cut that high. I am going to see them tomorrow, but will do some more research today on if this one may be the best fit for my application.

The seller did mention he has a old JD220b but the recoil rope needs to be replaced. Only asking $300 for that one, but I don't know the condition or if its running.


----------



## batmanfan62

MasterMech said:


> batmanfan62 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello, I have a Jacobsen 522A. I purchased it used a couple of years ago. While mowing today, it began to slow down to the point it will no longer move forward. If I put the power on its kickstand and engage the clutch, the drum spins but makes a grinding noise. I would appreciate any thoughts on what this could be.
> 
> 
> 
> Assuming this only happens when the traction clutch is engaged: (Have you tried just engaging the reel and checking for the noise?)
> 
> Either the traction clutch pins (Position 30) are worn down so far they no longer engage properly. or something has let go in  the differential assembly.
Click to expand...

I haven't tried just the reel, but I will and let you know. Thanks for the help.


----------



## batmanfan62

batmanfan62 said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> batmanfan62 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello, I have a Jacobsen 522A. I purchased it used a couple of years ago. While mowing today, it began to slow down to the point it will no longer move forward. If I put the power on its kickstand and engage the clutch, the drum spins but makes a grinding noise. I would appreciate any thoughts on what this could be.
> 
> 
> 
> Assuming this only happens when the traction clutch is engaged: (Have you tried just engaging the reel and checking for the noise?)
> 
> Either the traction clutch pins (Position 30) are worn down so far they no longer engage properly. or something has let go in  the differential assembly.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I haven't tried just the reel, but I will and let you know. Thanks for the help.
Click to expand...

So I tried this again isolating only the reel. The reel spins freely without making any abnormal sounds. When I isolate the drum only, it will spin when the mower is on the kickstand (still with a weird grinding sound I hadn't heard before). It is only when I place it on the lawn is when it does not want to move forward. Thoughts?


----------



## jim7white

Buy that Eclipse and mow at .75. It's a fantastic machine.


----------



## coreystooks

Well @MasterMech looks like I'm going to be doing that battery conversion you've talked about doing. The alternator died on my eclipse this week and I've just ordered everything to swap it over to full electric.


----------



## MasterMech

batmanfan62 said:


> batmanfan62 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> Assuming this only happens when the traction clutch is engaged: (Have you tried just engaging the reel and checking for the noise?)
> 
> Either the traction clutch pins (Position 30) are worn down so far they no longer engage properly. or something has let go in  the differential assembly.
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't tried just the reel, but I will and let you know. Thanks for the help.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So I tried this again isolating only the reel. The reel spins freely without making any abnormal sounds. When I isolate the drum only, it will spin when the mower is on the kickstand (still with a weird grinding sound I hadn't heard before). It is only when I place it on the lawn is when it does not want to move forward. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

If the reel is still spinning while it's stalled on the lawn, then you can safely eliminate the main clutch as the cause.

That puts you back to either an issue with the differential assembly (lot's of disassembly to get at that one.) or the traction clutch. With the traction clutch, you should be able to feel if it's moving along it's travel correctly. It won't always fully engage as the pins must align with the holes before it can lock in. If you try to engage it, and have to move the unit slightly to do so, it's likely ok. If you can turn the lever the full 180 deg every time, I'd suspect somethings up.

If it's an issue with the differential, even with it stalled, you should be able to see the transport wheel hubs rotating. If they do not, then suspect the woodruff key at position 27 has failed. (Cheap fix, parts in your local hardware store, couple hours of your time) If they do, that means you're going to need more beer to get this done. Likely culprits would be the pin at position 5, or the woodruff keys at position 7. Possibly a major fail at positions 31 or 2 as well.


----------



## MasterMech

coreystooks said:


> Well @MasterMech looks like I'm going to be doing that battery conversion you've talked about doing. The alternator died on my eclipse this week and I've just ordered everything to swap it over to full electric.


PLEASE report back on what batteries you end up using and what kind of runtime/area you get. There are a bunch of these units out there and they look pretty darn easy to convert to full electric. I think it's going to be awhile yet before full electric units become common on the secondary market.


----------



## coreystooks

MasterMech said:


> coreystooks said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well @MasterMech looks like I'm going to be doing that battery conversion you've talked about doing. The alternator died on my eclipse this week and I've just ordered everything to swap it over to full electric.
> 
> 
> 
> PLEASE report back on what batteries you end up using and what kind of runtime/area you get. There are a bunch of these units out there and they look pretty darn easy to convert to full electric. I think it's going to be awhile yet before full electric units become common on the secondary market.
Click to expand...

I'm basing it off a conversion a guy on the Jacobsen facebook group did, the battery is a 48v 20ah lithium pack and he says he cuts his yard twice or about 30k sq ft before recharging and that is with a 22" machine.


----------



## MasterMech

coreystooks said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> coreystooks said:
> 
> 
> 
> Well @MasterMech looks like I'm going to be doing that battery conversion you've talked about doing. The alternator died on my eclipse this week and I've just ordered everything to swap it over to full electric.
> 
> 
> 
> PLEASE report back on what batteries you end up using and what kind of runtime/area you get. There are a bunch of these units out there and they look pretty darn easy to convert to full electric. I think it's going to be awhile yet before full electric units become common on the secondary market.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm basing it off a conversion a guy on the Jacobsen facebook group did, the battery is a 48v 20ah lithium pack and he says he cuts his yard twice or about 30k sq ft before recharging and that is with a 22" machine.
Click to expand...

I'm holding out for a good Eclipse2 126 as my candidate for conversion. So tempted to just throw in the towel and pick up a 122f but I need an excuse to wait.... :lol:


----------



## coreystooks

MasterMech said:


> coreystooks said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> PLEASE report back on what batteries you end up using and what kind of runtime/area you get. There are a bunch of these units out there and they look pretty darn easy to convert to full electric. I think it's going to be awhile yet before full electric units become common on the secondary market.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm basing it off a conversion a guy on the Jacobsen facebook group did, the battery is a 48v 20ah lithium pack and he says he cuts his yard twice or about 30k sq ft before recharging and that is with a 22" machine.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm holding out for a good Eclipse2 126 as my candidate for conversion. So tempted to just throw in the towel and pick up a 122f but I need an excuse to wait.... :lol:
Click to expand...

I'm starting to think that I have the only one in the country, never seen another come up for sale.


----------



## MasterMech

coreystooks said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> coreystooks said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm basing it off a conversion a guy on the Jacobsen facebook group did, the battery is a 48v 20ah lithium pack and he says he cuts his yard twice or about 30k sq ft before recharging and that is with a 22" machine.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm holding out for a good Eclipse2 126 as my candidate for conversion. So tempted to just throw in the towel and pick up a 122f but I need an excuse to wait.... :lol:
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm starting to think that I have the only one in the country, never seen another come up for sale.
Click to expand...

Exactly! Actually its due to the riding triplexes getting better and better (re: turf wear), hence most courses are switching to those vs walk-mowing tees and approaches.

Only where a tee box is inaccessible to a triplex, or it's deemed heresy to use a triplex to cut fringe/collars, would you still find a 26" walk-mower in use. (Baseball infields?) IF they're still walk-mowing greens, it's going to be with a 22" or 18".


----------



## batmanfan62

MasterMech said:


> batmanfan62 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> batmanfan62 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't tried just the reel, but I will and let you know. Thanks for the help.
> 
> 
> 
> So I tried this again isolating only the reel. The reel spins freely without making any abnormal sounds. When I isolate the drum only, it will spin when the mower is on the kickstand (still with a weird grinding sound I hadn't heard before). It is only when I place it on the lawn is when it does not want to move forward. Thoughts?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If the reel is still spinning while it's stalled on the lawn, then you can safely eliminate the main clutch as the cause.
> 
> That puts you back to either an issue with the differential assembly (lot's of disassembly to get at that one.) or the traction clutch. With the traction clutch, you should be able to feel if it's moving along it's travel correctly. It won't always fully engage as the pins must align with the holes before it can lock in. If you try to engage it, and have to move the unit slightly to do so, it's likely ok. If you can turn the lever the full 180 deg every time, I'd suspect somethings up.
> 
> If it's an issue with the differential, even with it stalled, you should be able to see the transport wheel hubs rotating. If they do not, then suspect the woodruff key at position 27 has failed. (Cheap fix, parts in your local hardware store, couple hours of your time) If they do, that means you're going to need more beer to get this done. Likely culprits would be the pin at position 5, or the woodruff keys at position 7. Possibly a major fail at positions 31 or 2 as well.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the detailed reply. After reviewing the lubrication chart, I realized periodic lubrication of the clutch shaft assembly is recommended. Once I did this, it runs fine now. Hopefully, that was all it needed. Thanks again.


----------



## coreystooks

@MasterMech got the battery in last night and got everything hooked up so I could test it out this morning. It worked great it did my 12k sq ft easily I have no doubt I could double cut it and still have some juice left. I still need to get the holes drilled in the box for the wires to come through so I can actually close up the box but I was needing to mow bad so I just got it good enough to work.


----------



## MasterMech

coreystooks said:


> @MasterMech got the battery in last night and got everything hooked up so I could test it out this morning. It worked great it did my 12k sq ft easily I have no doubt I could double cut it and still have some juice left. I still need to get the holes drilled in the box for the wires to come through so I can actually close up the box but I was needing to mow bad so I just got it good enough to work.


Awesome! What batteries did you use?


----------



## coreystooks

MasterMech said:


> coreystooks said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MasterMech got the battery in last night and got everything hooked up so I could test it out this morning. It worked great it did my 12k sq ft easily I have no doubt I could double cut it and still have some juice left. I still need to get the holes drilled in the box for the wires to come through so I can actually close up the box but I was needing to mow bad so I just got it good enough to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! What batteries did you use?
Click to expand...

This is the one I went with.
https://www.amazon.com/HAILONG-Lithium-Connector-Electric-200W-1000W/dp/B09BCLV35K/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=48v+20ah+battery&qid=1660671182&sprefix=%2Caps%2C89&sr=8-9


----------



## MasterMech

coreystooks said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> coreystooks said:
> 
> 
> 
> @MasterMech got the battery in last night and got everything hooked up so I could test it out this morning. It worked great it did my 12k sq ft easily I have no doubt I could double cut it and still have some juice left. I still need to get the holes drilled in the box for the wires to come through so I can actually close up the box but I was needing to mow bad so I just got it good enough to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Awesome! What batteries did you use?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is the one I went with.
> https://www.amazon.com/HAILONG-Lithium-Connector-Electric-200W-1000W/dp/B09BCLV35K/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=48v+20ah+battery&qid=1660671182&sprefix=%2Caps%2C89&sr=8-9
Click to expand...

I gotta find me one of these mowers. :thumbup:


----------



## brschmitt

Afternoon All!

Posting a quick update on my 522a progress. After some help from @MasterMech I was able to get it up and running well enough for a good scalp. I've hit the lawn a couple more times this season to pull extra material out, something the robot doesn't do very well.

Yesterday I decided to officially decommission her for the rest of the season after a summer scalp and core aeration. Doing a full frame off rebuild as a passion project over winter. I'll upload some pictures as I go if anyone is interested.

Maybe if I can get it looking/running good enough I can trade up into an eclipse or something with a groomer as a project, one can hope. I actually passed on a 522 at auction today, sold for $50 and looked in darn good shape with a groomer too! Sadly, Uship quotes wouldn't come in at less than $1,000 so on to the next one.

Oh, almost forgot. Does this look worn enough to replace? Still smooth, just marked.


----------



## MasterMech

brschmitt said:


> Afternoon All!
> 
> Posting a quick update on my 522a progress. After some help from @MasterMech I was able to get it up and running well enough for a good scalp. I've hit the lawn a couple more times this season to pull extra material out, something the robot doesn't do very well.
> 
> Yesterday I decided to officially decommission her for the rest of the season after a summer scalp and core aeration. Doing a full frame off rebuild as a passion project over winter. I'll upload some pictures as I go if anyone is interested.
> 
> Maybe if I can get it looking/running good enough I can trade up into an eclipse or something with a groomer as a project, one can hope. I actually passed on a 522 at auction today, sold for $50 and looked in darn good shape with a groomer too! Sadly, Uship quotes wouldn't come in at less than $1,000 so on to the next one.
> 
> Oh, almost forgot. Does this look worn enough to replace? Still smooth, just marked.


Is that the wear sleeve from the main clutch? Position 13

If you can't feel anything, I'd clean it up with some red/green scotchbrite and most of the discoloration will likely disappear. If there's any doubt as to it's condition, replacements are only $11 from R&R.


----------



## BlakeC

Hello I was wondering if anyone here would know any information on this Reel Mower I just bought for $100? All







I know is it has a 3 hp Briggs & Stratton engine and it's self propelled. Thanks in advance


----------



## brschmitt

MasterMech said:


> brschmitt said:
> 
> 
> 
> Afternoon All!
> 
> Posting a quick update on my 522a progress. After some help from @MasterMech I was able to get it up and running well enough for a good scalp. I've hit the lawn a couple more times this season to pull extra material out, something the robot doesn't do very well.
> 
> Yesterday I decided to officially decommission her for the rest of the season after a summer scalp and core aeration. Doing a full frame off rebuild as a passion project over winter. I'll upload some pictures as I go if anyone is interested.
> 
> Maybe if I can get it looking/running good enough I can trade up into an eclipse or something with a groomer as a project, one can hope. I actually passed on a 522 at auction today, sold for $50 and looked in darn good shape with a groomer too! Sadly, Uship quotes wouldn't come in at less than $1,000 so on to the next one.
> 
> Oh, almost forgot. Does this look worn enough to replace? Still smooth, just marked.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is that the wear sleeve from the main clutch? Position 13
> 
> If you can't feel anything, I'd clean it up with some red/green scotchbrite and most of the discoloration will likely disappear. If there's any doubt as to it's condition, replacements are only $11 from R&R.
Click to expand...

Yeah, good point. Wouldn't want to throw away all this effort for an $11 part.

Have any thoughts on replacing clutch fingers (part 34)? Mine has 2 decently deep boxes worn out at the point of contact for the clutch bearing, wondering if its just a cable adjustment or worth replacing.

So far so good on the teardown. Did notice part 40 had 3 cracks over the mounting holes and that it's actually pretty easy to break the pilot bushing.... which when you do it seems like no big deal because it looks cheap and then you see its $30+.

Last thought for the day, has anyone done the calculation of building a GK from parts on RR?


----------



## meethead

Anyone identify which model this is? Says it is brand new but has been in storage for 25 yrs. Wondering if parts would still be available to even get it running/cutting right. Thoughts?


----------



## MasterMech

PGM Series - Still in production. Prob not the original engine? R & R carries quite a bit for them parts-wise.


----------



## meethead

Thanks for the quick reply - $100 about the going rate for these?


----------



## MasterMech

meethead said:


> Thanks for the quick reply - $100 about the going rate for these?


That'd be a pretty good deal. They are going for $4-500 at auction (for PGM 22s) these days.


----------



## Johnl445

Hey guys, I've got a Jacobsen greens king 526 2016. I'm looking to buy a new oem Honda carb. Is this the right one?https://www.ebay.com/itm/185505079436?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=OZFgGNZfTbS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=u2SPklg5SMa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY


----------



## MasterMech

Johnl445 said:


> Hey guys, I've got a Jacobsen greens king 526 2016. I'm looking to buy a new oem Honda carb. Is this the right one?https://www.ebay.com/itm/185505079436?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=OZFgGNZfTbS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=u2SPklg5SMa&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY


You'd have to use your engine numbers to look up the OEM part number. There are likely to be substitutions and super secessions that will depend on the serial breaks with your particular engine. Then look up/compare the part number listed for that carb.

That said, most of these carbs are physically interchangeable.


----------



## Johnl445

Ok @MasterMech i will do a search and double check


----------



## Goater90

JBC-1 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I have been looking for a greens mower for a while, and just came across this. Seller had 10 units for sale (Demo's). Highest hours on a machine is 350, and lowest is 80. Costs are $1250 - $1750 depending on which one.
> 
> Few questions for the experts...
> 
> What should I be looking for when I go see them?
> 
> My goal is to cut at 1" or above. From reading this thread, I can achieve that by changing the HOC brackets...but would this mower be suitable for my HOC goal?


Did you end up going and looking at these? I saw the ad on Kijiji as well but live quite a bit farther away...


----------



## jleiwig

Hey everyone. I spent the afternoon tearing apart my old school PGM22. I'm stuck at this point. I cannot get this cycloid gear base off to be able to remove the side plate. I cannot see a roll pin or anything holding it on. Any tips?


----------



## MasterMech

jleiwig said:


> Hey everyone. I spent the afternoon tearing apart my old school PGM22. I'm stuck at this point. I cannot get this cycloid gear base off to be able to remove the side plate. I cannot see a roll pin or anything holding it on. Any tips?


Sorry, I've never been that far into a PGM.

Have you checked Jacobsen's parts breakdowns for clues?

https://www.shopezgo.com/vehicle/index/parts#/Jacobsen_Turf_Care/062280_PGM_22/Left_Side_Frame/Jacobsen_Turf_Greens_Equipment_Walk_Behind_Greens_Equipment_PGM_Series_062280_PGM_22/SCHEMATIC%7c%7e22618/y

Looks like that ring gear is either press fit or shrink fit into the casting for the left side frame. You may not need to remove it in order to free the frame casting from the rest of the assembly.

ETA: That gear may be just a snug slip fit after all, there appears to be three pins to prevent it from rotating in the housing. Visible in your photo as well.


----------



## jleiwig

Ok a new one. I'm pretty sure this is a first edition from Jacobsen, meaning circa 1970. Is it possible the 5" reel diameter didn't start until later models? This one consistently measures 4 5/8" Al the way across the reel. It also doesn't look to be hardly used to my eye, but I'm no reel expert.


----------



## jleiwig

MasterMech said:


> Sorry, I've never been that far into a PGM.
> 
> Have you checked Jacobsen's parts breakdowns for clues?
> 
> https://www.shopezgo.com/vehicle/index/parts#/Jacobsen_Turf_Care/062280_PGM_22/Left_Side_Frame/Jacobsen_Turf_Greens_Equipment_Walk_Behind_Greens_Equipment_PGM_Series_062280_PGM_22/SCHEMATIC%7c%7e22618/y
> 
> Looks like that ring gear is either press fit or shrink fit into the casting for the left side frame. You may not need to remove it in order to free the frame casting from the rest of the assembly.
> 
> ETA: That gear may be just a snug slip fit after all, there appears to be three pins to prevent it from rotating in the housing. Visible in your photo as well.


Supposedly it's got two set screws holding that gear carrier in there somewhere according to a Facebook "expert" and the parts diagram I found seems to back that up. I'll have to get it on the bench and clean the 50 years of grease out of it to find them.


----------



## Adrian82

Do I need to break the chain in order ro replace the bottom sprocket?


----------



## MasterMech

jleiwig said:


> Ok a new one. I'm pretty sure this is a first edition from Jacobsen, meaning circa 1970. Is it possible the 5" reel diameter didn't start until later models? This one consistently measures 4 5/8" Al the way across the reel. It also doesn't look to be hardly used to my eye, but I'm no reel expert.


It's quite possible that it's simply ground down to that dimension as it's been serviced over the years. Reels have long been serviced on precision equipment. Jake goes back quite a bit further than 1970 too.


----------



## MasterMech

Adrian82 said:


> Do I need to break the chain in order ro replace the bottom sprocket?


Is there not a spring clip on the backside of that lighter colored link?

If releasing all tension doesn't give you enough slack to walk the chain off a sprocket, you could take the top and bottom off together as well.


----------



## JBC-1

Goater90 said:


> JBC-1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I have been looking for a greens mower for a while, and just came across this. Seller had 10 units for sale (Demo's). Highest hours on a machine is 350, and lowest is 80. Costs are $1250 - $1750 depending on which one.
> 
> Few questions for the experts...
> 
> What should I be looking for when I go see them?
> 
> My goal is to cut at 1" or above. From reading this thread, I can achieve that by changing the HOC brackets...but would this mower be suitable for my HOC goal?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you end up going and looking at these? I saw the ad on Kijiji as well but live quite a bit farther away...
Click to expand...

I have not had a chance to go by yet. The good thing is, he has a lot of them still available. The ones pictured above all sold, but he has another set that is now available, including a few fully electric ones.

Is there a particular one you are looking at? PM me if you want and I can ask the seller any questions when I do go check them out.


----------



## MasterMech

JBC-1 said:


> Goater90 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JBC-1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I have been looking for a greens mower for a while, and just came across this. Seller had 10 units for sale (Demo's). Highest hours on a machine is 350, and lowest is 80. Costs are $1250 - $1750 depending on which one.
> 
> Few questions for the experts...
> 
> What should I be looking for when I go see them?
> 
> My goal is to cut at 1" or above. From reading this thread, I can achieve that by changing the HOC brackets...but would this mower be suitable for my HOC goal?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you end up going and looking at these? I saw the ad on Kijiji as well but live quite a bit farther away...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have not had a chance to go by yet. The good thing is, he has a lot of them still available. The ones pictured above all sold, but he has another set that is now available, including a few fully electric ones.
> 
> Is there a particular one you are looking at? PM me if you want and I can ask the seller any questions when I do go check them out.
Click to expand...

Any 126's?


----------



## JBC-1

MasterMech said:


> JBC-1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Goater90 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you end up going and looking at these? I saw the ad on Kijiji as well but live quite a bit farther away...
> 
> 
> 
> I have not had a chance to go by yet. The good thing is, he has a lot of them still available. The ones pictured above all sold, but he has another set that is now available, including a few fully electric ones.
> 
> Is there a particular one you are looking at? PM me if you want and I can ask the seller any questions when I do go check them out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Any 126's?
Click to expand...

I will ask and get back to you.


----------



## Goater90

JBC-1 said:


> Goater90 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JBC-1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I have been looking for a greens mower for a while, and just came across this. Seller had 10 units for sale (Demo's). Highest hours on a machine is 350, and lowest is 80. Costs are $1250 - $1750 depending on which one.
> 
> Few questions for the experts...
> 
> What should I be looking for when I go see them?
> 
> My goal is to cut at 1" or above. From reading this thread, I can achieve that by changing the HOC brackets...but would this mower be suitable for my HOC goal?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you end up going and looking at these? I saw the ad on Kijiji as well but live quite a bit farther away...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have not had a chance to go by yet. The good thing is, he has a lot of them still available. The ones pictured above all sold, but he has another set that is now available, including a few fully electric ones.
> 
> Is there a particular one you are looking at? PM me if you want and I can ask the seller any questions when I do go check them out.
Click to expand...

I'm not looking for one type in particular, but they seem pretty fairly priced. I have been on the lookout for a Toro Greensmaster for a bit but as I'm sure you know, there arn't too many reel mowers north of the border. I know very little about the Jacobsens, but from what I've read they may be bit more finicky to look after. These ones look like they're in great shape, but all their rollers look a bit rusty, which seems odd to me.


----------



## MasterMech

Goater90 said:


> JBC-1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Goater90 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Did you end up going and looking at these? I saw the ad on Kijiji as well but live quite a bit farther away...
> 
> 
> 
> I have not had a chance to go by yet. The good thing is, he has a lot of them still available. The ones pictured above all sold, but he has another set that is now available, including a few fully electric ones.
> 
> Is there a particular one you are looking at? PM me if you want and I can ask the seller any questions when I do go check them out.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I'm not looking for one type in particular, but they seem pretty fairly priced. I have been on the lookout for a Toro Greensmaster for a bit but as I'm sure you know, there arn't too many reel mowers north of the border. I know very little about the Jacobsens, but from what I've read they may be bit more finicky to look after. These ones look like they're in great shape, but all their rollers look a bit rusty, which seems odd to me.
Click to expand...

Steel rollers and reels accumulate surface rust quickly and have little to do with how good of shape a mower is in. Aluminum rollers are the only ones that do not rust but they are generally not as desirable for home lawn-use. The steel rollers will clean up quickly with normal use, a reel with surface rust on the cutting edges can be back-lapped quick and it's usually good to go.

The Jake walk-mowers are not any better or worse than Toro/Deere as far as the day-in, day-out maintenance goes. You'll see fewer issues with belt drives vs Toro, none of the handle issues that Deere experienced with the "B" series walk-behinds. The clutches on Jakes are pretty easy to adjust and maintain, and do quite a bit for ease of use, especially for a home lawn. They are spendy to replace if necessary but that's seldom actually necessary unless they are neglected season after season. The 18" and 22" GreensKing models lack 7 and 9 blade reel options which means you have to stay on-top of your mow frequency even at heights over .500" or else quality of cut will suffer. The units pictured above are Eclipse models which have a Hybrid powertrain. These types of mowers are ALL expensive to fix when something goes wrong, regardless of brand.


----------



## Bermudabahama

Just picked up this new to me 90s PGM22. Looking for some information on how to adjust roller/groomer? Thanks


----------



## JBC-1

JBC-1 said:


> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JBC-1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> I have not had a chance to go by yet. The good thing is, he has a lot of them still available. The ones pictured above all sold, but he has another set that is now available, including a few fully electric ones.
> 
> Is there a particular one you are looking at? PM me if you want and I can ask the seller any questions when I do go check them out.
> 
> 
> 
> Any 126's?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I will ask and get back to you.
Click to expand...

He has one 26 in stock.


----------



## MasterMech

JBC-1 said:


> JBC-1 said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> MasterMech said:
> 
> 
> 
> Any 126's?
> 
> 
> 
> I will ask and get back to you.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> He has one 26 in stock.
Click to expand...

 :thumbup: I'll send you a PM in the AM.


----------



## Aggrorider1

any info on Victor 21"? One for sale kinda local and I want to try reel mowing the rear. Price is listed at 150. Curious is parts would be available. research suggests 60s or 70s model?


----------



## Bermudabahama

Anyone have any insight on this?



Bermudabahama said:


> Just picked up this new to me 90s PGM22. Looking for some information on how to adjust roller/groomer? Thanks


----------



## MasterMech

Aggrorider1 said:


> any info on Victor 21"? One for sale kinda local and I want to try reel mowing the rear. Price is listed at 150. Curious is parts would be available. research suggests 60s or 70s model?


Parts for the Briggs engine should be no problem but I doubt very much that the actual mower parts are readily available from Jacobsen. At that price, it's still worth picking up just to use and appreciate. Not many of those up in your area either.


----------



## MasterMech

Bermudabahama said:


> Just picked up this new to me 90s PGM22. Looking for some information on how to adjust roller/groomer? Thanks


All operator and technical manuals should be available from Jacobsen's website. You'll need your model number and the groomer is likely to have a manual of it's own.


----------



## uts

Came across a jacobsen greensking vi 1862G with a vanguard 18hp engine. It has 2600 hours on the clock. Can anyone guide me on the max hoc and if this is a good buy? The reels seemed to have some meat on them left but they need a grind soon. @MasterMech please.


----------



## jpos34

Can someone help me ID this mower. Seller says it is 522. But also has the picture of the reel with tape and it’s obviously a 26 inch reel. Does that make it a 526 or is it something completely different. Also he says it has the high HOC kit. Does that limit how low it can go or only just expand how high it can go? If it can’t go lower is it easy to remove or will I need an additional part to fix back to normal. Is a grass catcher hard to find for this model?


----------



## MasterMech

jpos34 said:


> Can someone help me ID this mower. Seller says it is 522. But also has the picture of the reel with tape and it’s obviously a 26 inch reel. Does that make it a 526 or is it something completely different. Also he says it has the high HOC kit. Does that limit how low it can go or only just expand how high it can go? If it can’t go lower is it easy to remove or will I need an additional part to fix back to normal. Is a grass catcher hard to find for this model?
> 
> 
> View attachment 709
> 
> View attachment 708


That is 100% a GreensKing 526. Older model without the InCommand controls. I don't know the exact cut-off of when they switched, but it's 15+ years old for sure. 7 blade reels were not, and still are not, available for the 522 or 518 (sadly). Many 526s outfitted with 7-blade reels already have the tall front roller brackets and bed knife necessary for HoC's of .5"+. There is not really a high HoC kit for these per say, as the only part you absolutely need to achieve .5"-1.2" is the tall brackets. But as with other mowers, you still need the appropriate bed knife and reel for your cutting conditions.


----------



## jpos34

MasterMech said:


> That is 100% a GreensKing 526. Older model without the InCommand controls. I don't know the exact cut-off of when they switched, but it's 15+ years old for sure. 7 blade reels were not, and still are not, available for the 522 or 518 (sadly). Many 526s outfitted with 7-blade reels already have the tall front roller brackets and bed knife necessary for HoC's of .5"+. There is not really a high HoC kit for these per say, as the only part you absolutely need to achieve .5"-1.2" is the tall brackets. But as with other mowers, you still need the appropriate bed knife and reel for your cutting conditions.


@MasterMech what would you consider to be a good price for this mower. No catcher or transport wheels. Seller is asking 1300$


----------



## MasterMech

jpos34 said:


> @MasterMech what would you consider to be a good price for this mower. No catcher or transport wheels. Seller is asking 1300$


I'd say that's pretty fair assuming the machine itself is in excellent working order with a sharp reel and bedknife. I really like the newer InCommand controls but those older plate clutch units are also super nice to run. I'd probably budget an additional $5-600 if buying a basket and transport wheels for it plus the inevitable basket mounts (Items 1 & 2) if running at the upper end of the HoC range. $2k for a 526 with everything desirable except a groomer seems like a bargain in today's market. The transport wheels are quite optional depending on your use situation. I use mine to freewheel the unit in/out of the garage and that's about it. Beware the transport hubs can be a bit of an issue if you really want the unit to drive with the wheels on. They often have a bunch of moisture and rust in the sprag bearings that prevents them from operating well. My unit, I just pulled the shaft keys and leave the axle nuts loose, which lets the hubs rotate freely, as I have no need for the wheels to drive the unit.


----------



## blsherrill1

gutowscr471 said:


> All fixed. Found a good deal on a reel controller. 9 blade is awesome on the Eclipse 2 122F. Cutting at .4" and have thick bedknife.


I know this was last year, but how are you liking this 9 blade reel plus thick bedknife on the 122F?

I currently have a 122F with the 15 blade, and I've used the high HOC brackets this year to cut a little over 1/2", but i'm looking to go to fewer blades and thicker bedknife and the 9 blade seems like a great setup to cover the 0.125-0.5 range. The length can get out of control quickly when trying to keep up with a higher HOC with the 15 blade and I feel like the frequency of clip is way too fast at anything over 0.250.

I'm also considering going to a grooved front roller as my current one is smooth


----------



## uts

uts said:


> Came across a jacobsen greensking vi 1862G with a vanguard 18hp engine. It has 2600 hours on the clock. Can anyone guide me on the max hoc and if this is a good buy? The reels seemed to have some meat on them left but they need a grind soon. @MasterMech please.


Just wanted to see if anybody had any info on this greensking VI. I looked through the manuals and couldn't find a HOC range for this and/or if it can get a high HOC bracket. @MasterMech you are the expert here.


----------



## MasterMech

uts said:


> Just wanted to see if anybody had any info on this greensking VI. I looked through the manuals and couldn't find a HOC range for this and/or if it can get a high HOC bracket. @MasterMech you are the expert here.


I believe these use the same cutting units as their smaller fairway mowers. Hence they should use the same roller brackets, which are the same ones used on PGM walk-machines (but NOT the same as the GreensKing walkers) if I remember correctly. The cutting units may have their own manuals in addition to the manuals for the GK VI traction unit. Setup will be dictated by the specific cutting unit used with the machine, but I'd say it's a safe bet that you can run anything under 1" with the proper reel, knife, and roller setup.


----------



## uts

Thank you so much. I will see if the person is still interested in selling. Is there anything to look out for apart from the usual cutting heads and hydraulic leaks etc?


----------



## MasterMech

uts said:


> Thank you so much. I will see if the person is still interested in selling. Is there anything to look out for apart from the usual cutting heads and hydraulic leaks etc?


All depends on the price, and claims made in the ad. I'm not aware of any particular pitfalls or issues with these units.


----------



## mre_man_76

Just completed a 14 hr turn and burn to pickup this $400 beast in order to upgrade from my Tru-Cut. 

Shoutout to @MasterMech for all his help and steering to go with this unit:


















On to the search for transport wheels and a groomer.

Will post better pics later so I can get opinions on recommended parts to replace/upgrade.

Right now I’m beat!!!!!


----------



## mre_man_76

Finally got a chance to play with my new toy. Cranks on first pull but noticed an issue right away.

I know a big part of my problem is not knowing how Jacobsen’s operate. Drum and reel is on the disengaged positions however the reel still spins. Tried engaging then disengaging the reel and no change.

Furthermore, when I engage the drum the mower takes off, indicating to me that the bail must be stuck in the on position. Hopefully it’s as simple as that because a new clutch was installed this season.

Here’s some pics that will hopefully help:


















































Is there a cover or something missing here:











Any help is appreciated!!!


----------



## MasterMech

So in your last photo, yes, you are missing a cover

The reel clutch is engaged by default. So if the lever is worn out or misaligned, the clutch will engage. You should feel some tension on the lever as you swing it down to the disengaged position. It's a pretty quick job to pull the lever out and have a look at it's condition. Be careful not to lose the balls, back both springs off until the set screws are just proud of the housing before removing the lever.

For the main clutch, I recommend measuring the spring distances and adjusting per the technical manual's procedure. All of the manuals are available from Jacobsen's website. From your photo, it looks like there's some tension on the cable yet? In the disengaged position, the clutch arm normally rests against the stop bolt.


----------



## mre_man_76

Thanks for the info. I will give it a go this weekend.


----------



## Tronk92

What year did they start making the in command controls?


----------



## mre_man_76

Tronk92 said:


> What year did they start making the in command controls?


Think it was released in 2006


----------



## Tronk92

Can someone tell me the difference between a PGM 22 and a Green's King 522a??


----------



## MasterMech

Tronk92 said:


> Can someone tell me the difference between a PGM 22 and a Green's King 522a??


PGM 22 uses an "old-school" cast aluminum frame design, and the powertrain is chain driven. 9, 11, and 15 blade reels available for the PGM 22.

GreensKing 522(a) uses a steel plate frame that's bolted together, and the powertrain is belt driven. 11 and 15 blade reels available for the GK 522.

Both are available in T-Handle or Loop handle versions, although if you see a T-Handle, 99% of the time it's on a PGM.
Both were offered with the older plate-style main clutches or the newer In-Command centrifugal clutches.

PGM unit should be a tad lighter on it's feet than a GreensKing. GreensKing has a better powertrain design IMO. Both are great, and fun, mowers to use.


----------



## Tronk92

Thanks man. I was always curious about this. @MasterMech


----------



## williams6966

Does anyone know if all the chains on a pgm22 are #41? Thanks


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