# What should I do?



## jacobchavarria (9 mo ago)

I'm applying 16-16-16 because I have a extra bag. Any other recommendations to get the S, CA and MG down?


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## Grizzly Adam (May 5, 2017)

Leach.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Leaching would also take away other nutrients, including what you're supposedly low on, and is something done to alleviate serious salinity problems, which you don't probably have. I think the soil test is not accurate. I'd suggest getting a test from a lab using normal extractants. Here is a thread on selecting a lab:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=7162
Even if you do have high calcium, magnesium, and sulfur, don't worry about it. As long as the other nutrients are sufficient, they aren't hurting anything,


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## jacobchavarria (9 mo ago)

Virginiagal said:


> Leaching would also take away other nutrients, including what you're supposedly low on, and is something done to alleviate serious salinity problems, which you don't probably have. I think the soil test is not accurate. I'd suggest getting a test from a lab using normal extractants. Here is a thread on selecting a lab:
> https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=7162
> Even if you do have high calcium, magnesium, and sulfur, don't worry about it. As long as the other nutrients are sufficient, they aren't hurting anything,


What makes you think the results aren't accurate? There is a man made lake in my back yard and all the clay was put on my land. I'm thinking that's why the results are so weird 🤔


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Your soil test is not using an established testing method with interpretations based on calibrations over years of study. The stuff in the capsule is attracting nutrients to the skin of the capsule and they eluate it to make measurements. It's not the same as using an extractant on the soil sample. The capsule changes the pH of the soil sent with it somewhat so when they do the pH measurement with the soil, it's not the same as it would have been before it was packed in with the capsule. Your results are rather weird. Maybe it's just that you have a weird situation. But I'm skeptical about the test results. See this:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=16135


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## Lawn Noob (Jul 26, 2020)

I'd use your 1-1-1 fertilizer this year and reassess next year using another lab.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

I was looking for Ohio fertilization guidelines and found this:
https://lake.osu.edu/sites/lake/files/imce/Program_Pages/ANR/FS%20101%20Lawn%20Care%20Calendar.pdf
According to these guidelines, if you've already fertilized this spring with 3/4 or 1 lb of nitrogen, then wait until late August/early September for the next application.. if you made a light application in April, then you can make another light application now (only 1/2 lb of nitrogen) and then wait until late August. 3 lb of 16-16-16 will give you about a half pound of nitrogen. 6 lb will give just about a full pound. I think for the upcoming summer months a slow release or organic fertilizer would be better if you're going to do a light application now. But you can use the other if you prefer. If you have prolonged snow cover in the winter it would be better to not do potassium applications late in the fall, as it has been linked to snow mold. If you don't have weeks and weeks of snow cover, it's no problem to use potassium later in the fall.

Test results can be off for conventional soil tests too. There are always the possibilities of sampling errors (not enough samples mixed together, inconsistent depth, using instruments with coatings like zinc). But an acidic extractant like the Mehlich 3, which is common in the East, can extract unavailable calcium and magnesium as well as what's plant available and the result numbers will be exaggerated. It also throws off the CEC (one of the things your test doesn't provide but is one of the most useful bits of information on a soil test). An alkaline soil should be tested with ammonium acetate for the cations and Olsen for the phosphorus.


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