# CT Soil Test 2020



## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

Any suggestions?? Thanks in advance...


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

What did you apply last year? And how much?

It doesn't look like your soil change from last year. Potassium increased, but you are still deficient in phosphorus.


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

g-man said:


> What did you apply last year? And how much?
> 
> It doesn't look like your soil change from last year. Potassium increased, but you are still deficient in phosphorus.


I just used a balanced fertilizer as suggested (triple 10 and sometimes triple 13). I applied every 8 weeks so just two apps.

This year I was going to try an 18-46-0 for the first app and then go with 21-0-0 once every 4 weeks and finally end with the 18-46-0. My local seed store is pushing a 21-7-14 mix they have specifically for my area.

I will wait to do anything as its a bit early since the grass is still dormant :lol: On the bright side I did get down my 0-0-7


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Use the 18-46-0 at 2lb/ksqft every month of the growing season. Supplement with the 21-0-0 when you need more nitrogen.

Once the P is improved, then use the 21-7-14


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

@ctrav Any reason you switched to M3 extraction for the primaries and P this year from AA and Olsen that you used last year?


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

Ridgerunner said:


> @ctrav Any reason you switched to M3 extraction for the primaries and P this year from AA and Olsen that you used last year?


I didn't see the need for the more extensive test and "thought" the basic test would be fine. Should I have done more? I can take another test before putting down my first app of fertilizer if needed...


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

g-man said:


> Use the 18-46-0 at 2lb/ksqft every month of the growing season. Supplement with the 21-0-0 when you need more nitrogen.
> 
> Once the P is improved, then use the 21-7-14


Sounds like a plan! How do I know when to use the 21-0-0 (grass color)?


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

> I didn't see the need for the more extensive test and "thought" the basic test would be fine. Should I have done more? I can take another test before putting down my first app of fertilizer if needed...


I agree that there was no reason for an extensive test as your last year test didn't show any big issues with micros. Testing only the primary nutrients was the way to go, however, so that you are comparing apples to apples, it's best to stay with the same extraction method and the same test lab from year to year. Otherwise changes in levels from year to year might be, at least in part, due to the difference in extraction method or laboratory methods/equipment.
Although the AA and Olsen were more "appropriate" IMO for your high pH soil, no need to retest. @g-man can still use this test to make useful recommendations.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

ctrav said:


> Sounds like a plan! How do I know when to use the 21-0-0 (grass color)?


I don't know much about the warm season weed (aka Bermuda), but the general rule is to get a healthy grow. You don't want crazy grow or too slow. I think something around 0.5lb of N/ksqft/month could get you there, but it depends on your Bermuda type. Monitor your clippings length to tell. Check the Bermuda Bible too.


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

g-man said:


> ctrav said:
> 
> 
> > Sounds like a plan! How do I know when to use the 21-0-0 (grass color)?
> ...


Will do and thanks g-man!


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

Ridgerunner said:


> > I didn't see the need for the more extensive test and "thought" the basic test would be fine. Should I have done more? I can take another test before putting down my first app of fertilizer if needed...
> 
> 
> I agree that there was no reason for an extensive test as your last year test didn't show any big issues with micros. Testing only the primary nutrients was the way to go, however, so that you are comparing apples to apples, it's best to stay with the same extraction method and the same test lab from year to year. Otherwise changes in levels from year to year might be, at least in part, due to the difference in extraction method or laboratory methods/equipment.
> Although the AA and Olsen were more "appropriate" IMO for your high pH soil, no need to retest. @g-man can still use this test to make useful recommendations.


Thanks for the feedback/guidance on this. I did use the same testing lab and will continue with Waypoint from here on out. I will continue with basic tests and switch to a more robust test every 3 years. At least that's the plan  BTW- what is AA and Olsen? I have no clue when it comes to these things and so appreciative to have you good folks guide me...


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Look at your last year's test. Under column "Method" you will see AA for K, Mg Ca, and Na and Bl for P. AA means they used ammonium acetate to extract those nutrients. Bl means they used a bicarbonate to extract P
In this years test under "Method" they list M3. That means they used Mehlich Three extractant (chemicals) to measure K, Mg, Ca, Na, and P. Two different methods that can result in different reported levels of nutrients.
An "Extractant" is a group of chemicals that a lab will mix into a soil sample to "extract" nutrients., Mostly, they are acids, some extractants contain weak acids, some contain strong acids, Once the nutrients are "extracted" their concentration level is measured using a spectrometer. Some think using a weaker acid is more accurate, some think a strong acid results in better accuracy. Both proponents create charts to compare measured results to determine if your reported results are normal. or above or below normal. Again, experts disagree as to which method provides the most accurate results. The major differences are based on pH. On the whole, most experts think M3 is accurate for soils with a pH less than 7. That AA is accurate for K. Mg, Ca and Na, no matter the pH. That Olsen is best at measuring P in high pH soils- (proponents of M3 will argue differently).


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## ctrav (Aug 18, 2018)

Ridgerunner said:


> Look at your last year's test. Under column "Method" you will see AA for K, Mg Ca, and Na and Bl for P. AA means they used ammonium acetate to extract those nutrients. Bl means they used a bicarbonate to extract P
> In this years test under "Method" they list M3. That means they used Mehlich Three extractant (chemicals) to measure K, Mg, Ca, Na, and P. Two different methods that can result in different reported levels of nutrients.
> An "Extractant" is a group of chemicals that a lab will mix into a soil sample to "extract" nutrients., Mostly, they are acids, some extractants contain weak acids, some contain strong acids, Once the nutrients are "extracted" their concentration level is measured using a spectrometer. Some think using a weaker acid is more accurate, some think a strong acid results in better accuracy. Both proponents create charts to compare measured results to determine if your reported results are normal. or above or below normal. Again, experts disagree as to which method provides the most accurate results. The major differences are based on pH. On the whole, most experts think M3 is accurate for soils with a pH less than 7. That AA is accurate for K. Mg, Ca and Na, no matter the pH. That Olsen is best at measuring P in high pH soils- (proponents of M3 will argue differently).


Wow that's one heck of an explanation and greatly appreciated!


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