# Riding Mower routine maintenance points?



## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

What would be on your checklist for maintenance of a riding mower (specifically lawn tractor)?

What else in addition to:

Check (specifically?)
Clean deck, including under belt guards
Lubricate as needed
Oil change
Oil filter change
Replace battery
Spark plug change
Air filter and pre-cleaner change
Fuel filter change
Sharpen and balance blades


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## Redtenchu (Jan 28, 2017)

Tire pressure.

Some have a transmission and Gearbox, those fluids should be changed/checked as recommended by the Manufacturer.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

Battery replacement should not be necessary on an annual or even semi-annual basis if a little care is taken to keep it clean and charged. If the machine is not going to be used for several months during the off-season, removing the cables or removing the battery from the machine altogether for warm/dry storage will do much to extend its service life.

I would add inspection of the transmission and mower deck drive belts to that list. Also, a good idea before returning the unit to service to inspect the engine for signs of a mouse nest, even if it means removing the blower shroud to gain visibility of the cooling fins and clean out any dirt/debris while you are in there.


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## gene_stl (Oct 29, 2017)

> I would add inspection of the transmission and mower deck drive belts to that list. Also, a good idea before returning the unit to service to inspect the engine for signs of a mouse nest, even if it means removing the blower shroud to gain visibility of the cooling fins and clean out any dirt/debris while you are in there.


What he Said!
At the University where I work we have an environmental plot of a couple of acres. The u is tight in the budget and they bought a $1500 Home Depot cheep-a-matic riding mower for the professors that use it to mow it with. The mower lives in a shed on the plot which is essentially out in the country. A rodent built a nest and nobody noticed until the single cylinder (19 hp!)Briggs seized up.
I brought in my MoJack and my mechanics tools and bought them a new motor online ($400) and installed it. We are more careful about that now.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

Excellent. Any other ideas, especially for a riding mower that hasn't had regular service?


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

Green said:


> Excellent. Any other ideas, especially for a riding mower that hasn't had regular service?


Clean! You'll find most of what's wrong just by detailing the thing.

Check the mower deck hanging brackets for wear. 
Check to see if the blades are level, L2R & F2R.
Check gauge wheels for wear
For most models, removing the trans for a thorough cleaning and oil change isn't a bad idea. If you have a model with a serviceable trans (drain plug), then You can skip the removal.
Re-torque engine mounting bolts. 
Check engine/battery charging sys.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

More good advice...thanks!

I will have to run the gas out of his riding mower for the season in the next week or so (never got around to it). Any advice on doing so? One thing I am unsure of, is how we will get the mower into the garage again after running the gas out, for instance.


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## MasterMech (Sep 24, 2017)

Green said:


> More good advice...thanks!
> 
> I will have to run the gas out of his riding mower for the season in the next week or so (never got around to it). Any advice on doing so? One thing I am unsure of, is how we will get the mower into the garage again after running the gas out, for instance.


Unless you have objections to keeping gas in the machine while it's in the garage, I wouldn't worry too much. Your cold temps and low humidity will not make trouble with the fuel before you start mowing again in April.

But if you do go ahead and de-fuel it...

I'm guessing you have a hydrostatic transmission, sometimes called an "automatic". If so, there should be a release valve somewhere on the unit to allow it to be hand-pushed fairly easily. The owners manual will probably have a word or two about it.


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## gene_stl (Oct 29, 2017)

The transmission unlock is often a locking lever under the seat. You unlock it and put it in the movable position. Don't forget to put it back or you will be in neutral, the pedal won't do anything. If it's a hydro. If it's not a hydro you can just put it in neutral and push it.


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