# system modifications



## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

I have a 88' long strip of grass, I call it the tree lawn.

Currently, there are 7 4" pop-ups spaced about 12'3" - 12'9" apart. The strip of grass is 10' wide.

my vision is to increase the head count from 7 to 10. Right now, there are 3 1800, 1 Hunter pro spray and 3 other random heads. I want to replace them all with 1804 (1800 4") RVAN heads, to align it all and increase the coverage.

That is the plan, but how I get there is a whole different story. As I remove heads, I assum I just need to couple the hose where a connection is removed (https://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/Insert-Fitting-p/1429-007.htm). But what if there is a gap? Do I patch in hose? I was thinking to use hunter swing joints, but these only get me a maximum 12".

Would it make sense to use plain funny pipe to extend farther?

What is the typical system pipe size 3/4"? Would it make sense to replace the entire run of pipe? This would allow me to place swing joints wherever I want.

Currently I have black pipe. What are the connections called that have the 2 barbed ends and the screw in part for the swing joint. I could not locate them on sprinkler warehouse site.

am I correct in the thinking that with the barbed fittings, you do not need to clamp. just heat to soften (making life easier), then slide together and done?


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

The only argument against replacing the pipe would be the digging.

Personally I'm looking at something called Blu-Lock which is all snap together fittings. Then you put your tees in with 1/2" outputs and thread the swing joints right on there.


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## Kmartel (Feb 12, 2019)

Barb connections need clamps. Put 2 per barb and clamp them in opposing directions. How far you have to move the existing head will determine if you just move them with swing joints, funny pipe or run a entire new line. 88' is to bad if the digging is easy, you could also rent a trencher.


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

If it's 10 feet wide, I would be doing heads 10 feet apart, 6" in from the edge, and alternating on the other side, like this:

* head <10 ft> * head < 10 feet > * head
<5 feet> * head <10 feet> * head

All set up as 180s, with a 9-10' radius.

I don't care what the salesman or irrigation guy tells you because I made this mistake, or rather my irrigation guy did, any place you don't have head to head coverage you're going to have dry spots.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

Kmartel said:


> Barb connections need clamps. Put 2 per barb and clamp them in opposing directions. How far you have to move the existing head will determine if you just move them with swing joints, funny pipe or run a entire new line. 88' is to bad if the digging is easy, you could also rent a trencher.


What is the max span for funny pipe?


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

SCGrassMan said:


> If it's 10 feet wide, I would be doing heads 10 feet apart, 6" in from the edge, and alternating on the other side, like this:
> 
> * head <10 ft> * head < 10 feet > * head
> <5 feet> * head <10 feet> * head
> ...


If I was to add heads on the street side, how deep do I need to burry if I always drain the lines?

For a tree lawn I always only see heads at the sidewalk side. I know it isn't ideal, it is just always like this. May or may not want to double things up.


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

12"


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

SCGrassMan said:


> 12"


So to span over to the other side, I would need to tee off and 3/4 or 1 inch to the other side for the second 88' run?

How many 4"pop ups can be on a single run? Or is this dependant on my water pressure?


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

kolbasz said:


> SCGrassMan said:
> 
> 
> > 12"
> ...


It's more dependent on flow than pressure. Let's say you have 12 GPM of flow, me personally I'd design for 8 GPM and figure out how many heads that is. Just as an example


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## NewLawnJon (Aug 3, 2018)

kolbasz said:


> SCGrassMan said:
> 
> 
> > If it's 10 feet wide, I would be doing heads 10 feet apart, 6" in from the edge, and alternating on the other side, like this:
> ...


The reason why you usually only see the heads on the sidewalk side and not on both sidewalk and street side in the north is the plows will destroy every head on the street side in the winter.

I have a similar 12' wide by about 250' long strips between my sidewalk and street, and I am running heads on the sidewalk side only. Not ideal since you need to set them a bit closer to each other, and they need to spray onto the curb a bit to get full (but not as even) of coverage.

The ideal method would be to set them up on each side in the square or triangle pattern, but be prepared to fix it every year if you go this way.


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

That's true but 6" in from the curb you should be fine. $5-$10 in parts to fix a head. Dry grass is more of a problem for me - $285 a pallet minimum one full pallet for my type of grass.


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## NewLawnJon (Aug 3, 2018)

SCGrassMan said:


> That's true but 6" in from the curb you should be fine. $5-$10 in parts to fix a head. Dry grass is more of a problem for me - $285 a pallet minimum one full pallet for my type of grass.


Around here they run a blade on the plow to clear 4' in from the curb since our snowbanks can become dangerously high. A lot of times they hit bumps and dig into the grass. Not sure about Ohio where the OP was from.


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

I escaped the northern wastelands two years ago this March.


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## kolbasz (Jun 7, 2017)

NewLawnJon said:


> SCGrassMan said:
> 
> 
> > That's true but 6" in from the curb you should be fine. $5-$10 in parts to fix a head. Dry grass is more of a problem for me - $285 a pallet minimum one full pallet for my type of grass.
> ...


They do usually stay away from the curb, but pondering the work required to get things doubled up. It's going to be a process just moving and adding all the heads.


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## SCGrassMan (Dec 17, 2017)

I'm facing this same issue myself, minus the plows, in deciding whether to address my lack of double coverage. Add to it that my sod (Zeon) if I need repair pieces, I have to buy an entire pallet of it.


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