# Anyone else spring seeding this year?



## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

I know fall is the best time to seed cool season, and I did about 2,500 SF of seeding last fall that worked out well despite hurricanes and constant rain all winter. I'm just not able to push my second seeding project to fall. I'm wondering if anyone else is doing a spring seed this year and what is your strategy for success.

I've read the Seeding a Turf Area in Spring article from the Cool Season Lawn Guide a few times and feel like I'm fairly well prepared. I've also read through the Establishing a New Lawn section of this article.

My strategy:

Cultivating, leveling, topsoil, leveling (almost done)
Seed down
Peat moss over seed
Starter fertilizer
Tenacity
Humic/Fulvic Acid

I'm still planning out my watering schedule, which will be heavily based on weather each day and timing based on low and high temps.

Seed down through Tenacity will all happen on the same day. I'm not really sure when is the best time to put down the humic/fulvic, or if it even matters when it goes down relative to germination since it is more for the soil than the grass. My goal is to push root growth as much as possible before the heat of the summer. I'm hoping to do two applications of humic, one at seeding, then another in 6-8 weeks. Anybody have any experience to share? Or anyone doing something similar this spring?


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## quattljl (Aug 8, 2018)

I'm also doing a spring over seed. I renovated my front yard last fall and it took really well for the most part. But I did have some fungus and moisture issues that thinned out a few areas.

This spring I am trying to over seed those thin areas to get some ground coverage. I have a heavy poa annua infestation that I'll need to address this fall instead of being able to do the typical fall over seed.

Just this past weekend I performed my second mow at around 2-2.5" (I can't remember what the setting is). Put down a blanket app of RGS at 3oz/k combined with Tenacity to combat the chickweed, geranium, and to stunt the poa as much as possible while also giving me some pre-emergent presence for the seed. I didn't measure or weigh how much seed I put out. I just poured everything I had leftover from my fall over seed into the spreader and went to town. Lastly, I applied Scotts starter fert at 3lbs/k (0.75lbs N/k) and watered it in. Now I just keep everything watered and hope for the best.


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## HomerGuy (Jun 5, 2017)

I'm going to be seeding a small portion along my back property line.

I need to cut a swale to move some water around, and that will necessitate re-seeding the area. Hopefully I'll have time to do this in the next couple of weeks. Heck, our snow just melted last week. I'm not too worried about it since it is at the very back of the yard, and if my spring attempt fails then I'll just try again in the fall.


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## Powhatan (Dec 15, 2017)

I sowed seed Feb 15. Soil temps not quite warm enough for wide-spread germination yet.


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

quattljl said:


> Just this past weekend I performed my second mow at around 2-2.5" (I can't remember what the setting is). Put down a blanket app of RGS at 3oz/k combined with Tenacity to combat the chickweed, geranium, and to stunt the poa as much as possible while also giving me some pre-emergent presence for the seed. I didn't measure or weigh how much seed I put out. I just poured everything I had leftover from my fall over seed into the spreader and went to town. Lastly, I applied Scotts starter fert at 3lbs/k (0.75lbs N/k) and watered it in. Now I just keep everything watered and hope for the best.


This sounds pretty similar to my situation. I'm a little north of you so probably about a week behind seasonally. I'm putting down no later than this weekend.

Are you going to do prodiamine or dithiopyr at anytime after germination? I believe the prodiomine label says to wait 60 days before applying.


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## quattljl (Aug 8, 2018)

No, just going to rely on Tenacity and Weed-B-Gon to handle things post-emergently.


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

Yes, and I'll be doing more of it than usual.


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

Green said:


> Yes, and I'll be doing more of it than usual.


What's your plan for dealing with weeds?


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

jjepeto said:


> Green said:
> 
> 
> > Yes, and I'll be doing more of it than usual.
> ...


Tenacity and Gallery tank mix, followed up by Tenacity again 5-6 weeks later. 
First time using Gallery.


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## Confederate Lawn (Apr 4, 2018)

Ya man! I will be overseeding with Centipede in about 8 weeks. I need to do a little leveling and then core aerate. I put down some atrazine about a month ago and a spectracide weed stop for lawns product almost 2 weeks ago now. I dethatched this past week and did a good low scalp. things are just about prepped for some seed after some of the herbicides wear off and the soil temps start going up. I have about 8 tons of black topsoil for a thin top dressing. Going to use that instead of peat. Will finish it off with some Milo


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## quattljl (Aug 8, 2018)

@Confederate Lawn good luck with that. Centipede is a slow grower, especially from seed. I definitely think I would go the sod route if I went with centipede. Let us know how it goes!


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## NoslracNevok (Jun 12, 2018)

I'm doing a small ~150sqft hell strip here in STL. It's prepped and ready to go, just need to through down the KBG seed, hopefully this evening.


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## Jconnelly6b (Mar 4, 2018)

Advice to all of you, after spring seeding a few areas where trees were removed last year: water frequently, up to daily in late July/August, and because of the added soil moisture keep up with regular fungicide applications. My personal experience with organic fungicide was it takes a lot more effort than does chemical, so take that for what you like.


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## ryeguy (Sep 28, 2017)

Green said:


> Tenacity and Gallery tank mix, followed up by Tenacity again 5-6 weeks later.
> First time using Gallery.


Are you sure that's a good idea? Tenacity is meant to be used at seed down, but gallery wants more mature development: 
_
"Apply Gallery 75 Dry Flowable to newly seeded turfgrass (including overseeded turfgrass) only after seedlings are established (three leaf stage and tillering) and well rooted" _

From the label. I see no mention of it being usable at seed down time.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

@ryeguy I agree. I would not use gallery at seed down.


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## Ortho-Doc (Feb 3, 2019)

@quattljl The poa loves Rock Hill doesn't it! I went rogue on my fescue since I had so much Poa and applied glyphosate to heavily infested areas a month ago to smoke it and then aerated and overseeded two weeks ago. Seed still hasn't germinated but I'm hoping with warmer temps it will soon. The poa also is all in my zoysia lawn area too despite properly applied pre-em. I think I'm going to invest in specticle flo for this fall's pre-em app as this forum seems to say it's bulletproof against poa. I've got almost full containers of prodiamine and dimension but neither have stopped the poa. Wish I heard of specticle before I bought these.



quattljl said:


> .
> I'm also doing a spring over seed. I renovated my front yard last fall and it took really well for the most part. But I did have some fungus and moisture issues that thinned out a few areas.
> 
> This spring I am trying to over seed those thin areas to get some ground coverage. I have a heavy poa annua infestation that I'll need to address this fall instead of being able to do the typical fall over seed.
> ...


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## HoosierLawnGnome (Sep 28, 2017)

I'm filling in a playset area and showing seed. About 1k.

I hope it takes. If not ill be dropping again this fall.


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

Jconnelly6b said:


> Advice to all of you, after spring seeding a few areas where trees were removed last year: water frequently, up to daily in late July/August, and because of the added soil moisture keep up with regular fungicide applications. My personal experience with organic fungicide was it takes a lot more effort than does chemical, so take that for what you like.


Thanks for that reminder. I had planned on watering a lot but forgot all about the fungicide aspect of it. Personally I've not needed to use any fungicide in my lawn luckily, so I will do some reading and be prepared with a product for the summer months. Hoping for a cooler than average summer but that's probably a pipe dream.


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

Oops. Mobile induced double post...


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## Ryan1+2 (Oct 16, 2018)

I have a couple small bare spots left from the renovation I did in the fall. Areas that were either washed away or got hit with fungus. I had a little bit of seed left from that project so I threw it down a couple weeks ago in those couple small spots. They're pretty small areas, one is 2'x5' and the other 3x3. I'm just going to avoid those two small areas when I put down pre-emergent and a hand pull any weeds that come up in the summer. Have another larger area which is really thin so I'm going to wait until fall to overseed it and probably put down tenacity at that time.


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## quattljl (Aug 8, 2018)

Ortho-Doc said:


> @quattljl The poa loves Rock Hill doesn't it! I went rogue on my fescue since I had so much Poa and applied glyphosate to heavily infested areas a month ago to smoke it and then aerated and overseeded two weeks ago. Seed still hasn't germinated but I'm hoping with warmer temps it will soon. The poa also is all in my zoysia lawn area too despite properly applied pre-em. I think I'm going to invest in specticle flo for this fall's pre-em app as this forum seems to say it's bulletproof against poa. I've got almost full containers of prodiamine and dimension but neither have stopped the poa. Wish I heard of specticle before I bought these.


You aren't kidding! One of the first springs I lived in my house, my entire backyard looked like a field of poa with all those white seed heads blowing in the wind. This was before I even knew what it was.

I applied Prodiamine for the first time last fall in my back yard and it seems to have worked well. I got pretty good control. I didn't use any marking dye so you can definitely tell where I didn't overlap enough. I have little strips/lines of poa that came in over the winter/spring. My hope is that it will be essentially eradicated this time next year.

What pre-emergent did you use on your zoysia and how did you apply?


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## Darrell_KC (Mar 20, 2019)

I will be doing a spring seeding project. My backyard is in need of serious coverage. I am still going back and forth about the best way to accomplish it. I've been reading up and seeing what the real world experiences have been for you guys. I do need to spend some time building up the back corner of my yard to fix a drainage issue, and also patch up some spots.


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## Ortho-Doc (Feb 3, 2019)

@quattljl I used prodiamine early fall at the max rate with an 4 gallon electric sprayers plus sprayer. A lot of my yard though is on a slope and my theory is the crazy rainfall washed the pre-em out of the soil. This year I'll do a split rate and maybe add some princep to the mix. I'm spending my weekend hard pulling a few hundred poa weeds since I was told not to apply herbicides to zoysia coming out of dormancy.


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

Just got my Humic/fulvic acid in the mail. This weekend I plan on getting my seed down on a 1,000 sqft section of new lawn plus a few bare spots in the existing lawn. Hoping the starter fert plus Humic application at seeding will push strong and deep root growth to survive summer.


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## Shindoman (Apr 22, 2018)

I'm always over seed in the spring. fall too.


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## jabopy (Nov 24, 2018)

Never done a serious overseed before, so this year I will be giving it a try. I also want to try spreading sand to level out a bit more.


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## Confederate Lawn (Apr 4, 2018)

quattljl said:


> @Confederate Lawn good luck with that. Centipede is a slow grower, especially from seed. I definitely think I would go the sod route if I went with centipede. Let us know how it goes!


Yeah for sure! I seeded with centipede early last spring in a spot that I took a tree out. it did grow really slow but filled in pretty well in a couple months. I would love to do sod but its not in the budget especially for the square footage I have to repair. I'm just waiting for the soil temps to warm up before I throw'er down. if I added up all the spots its probably around 3500 sq ft.


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## quattljl (Aug 8, 2018)

Confederate Lawn said:


> Yeah for sure! I seeded with centipede early last spring in a spot that I took a tree out. it did grow really slow but filled in pretty well in a couple months. I would love to do sod but its not in the budget especially for the square footage I have to repair. I'm just waiting for the soil temps to warm up before I throw'er down. if I added up all the spots its probably around 3500 sq ft.


I understand the budgetary constraints. I'm renovating my 5k sqft back yard this year in hopes to not have a mud pit this fall/winter and I'm using bermuda seed instead of zoysia sod for budget reasons.


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## Confederate Lawn (Apr 4, 2018)

@quattljl Not sure what your yard looks like but I know I had to do some leveling for drainage purposes. I had some spots that kept either mud or weeds (pond weeds/always wet)


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## quattljl (Aug 8, 2018)

@Confederate Lawn yes I have lots of leveling to do. I'll address any drainage issues after the lawn is level and I actually have grass. My yard has historically been a crabgrass lawn so it dies out and leaves me with bare soil during the fall/winter only exacerbating the drainage issues.


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## srmorris2 (Aug 31, 2018)

Jumping in on this thread, as I think I am considering some seeding in at least two areas. (I'm currently working on my entire plan for the season, but saw this thread and thought I'd join in). This is year two for me in this yard.

Currently for my area we are averaging 44-47º soil temps so I have probably another 2-3 weeks before hitting 55º.
(5 year average for hitting 55º is April 16).


First, in my back yard I have a flower bed from the previous owners that we want to take back to grass. It's about 6'x6', will use a full sun seed from a local place.
Second, going to overseed on the north side of my lawn. This area did not do well last year. It does not get a ton of sun and has been thin since we moved in. I also need to fix a little bit of unevenness in this area, so I'll plan to topdress in this area too. Working with the local place to get some good seed for this area.

Most likely I will grab a bottle of Tenacity for pre-m in these areas. Will use prodiomine for the rest of the yard. A good layer of some starter fert for the entire yard.

@jjepeto I like the idea of putting down humic/fulvic, and from what I can gather, I think its game to put it down at the same time, at least that is what I will plan at this point.

So in one day it looks like I will

Top dress/level in localized spots
Seed
Starter fert (whole yard)
Tenacity on seeded area
Humic (in particular, this product from HD)
prodiomine in not seeded area
water, water, water!

That sound about right?


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## gm560 (Feb 22, 2018)

I did a dormant seed on some thin spots that persisted from last fall's reno. Subsequently I plan on using Tenacity as a temporary prem. Alternatively I might use Scotts Starter with Tenacity. I have both, so anyone have any preference? I know people warn against early spring N which makes me think I should spray it... However I have also read recommendations that a first year lawn can benefit from a good dose of N in the spring. On that note, does the Scotts Starter "light up" grassy weeds like the liquid app? I would love to get them early and this would help me visually ID.

Additionally, when do you guys plan to hit your new grass with a long term pre em? I think seedlings will still be too young at 30 days. Maybe wait 45-60 days from germination?


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## mattcoughlin (Jul 8, 2018)

I really want to kill, level and seed my yard in the spring, but i'm torn. I have a bit of work to do. I want to put down concrete curbing around my property (currently just yard into a drainage ditch in front and the neighbors driveway on the side) and level it so i get a crisp LEVEL line at the end of my yard. I also have a few spots that i'm going to be doing work. In my head i know i should just do my work and reno in the fall, but the grass is in rough shape in a few spots and it drives me nuts!


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## Chris LI (Oct 26, 2018)

@gm560
It sounds like you read up on the Philes Phertilizer Lecture (Google it, if you haven't) . I'm planning on some some spoonfeeding of urea for all of my overseeding/mini renos/dormant seeding that I did during the fall/winter. I plan on going easy, so as to not push too much N (.25 N weekly or biweekly, as I constantly evaluate). In your case, I would go with Tenacity. If that's too time consuming for you, the Scotts starter with mesotrione should be fine. I'm not sure if it would light up the poa, as it's more of a soil app, than foliar/soil app.


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

@srmorris2 I'm putting my seed down tomorrow. The areas have been leveled with topsoil and being in the southern transition zone I already feel a little late. I purchased the Humic from simple lawn solutions on Amazon. It's the same one Ryan knorr used in a few videos. It's probably very similar to the product you linked. Also I put my Prodiamine down today in the non seeded areas.

@gm560 I'm putting a 4 month dose of Prodiamine down 60 days after seeding. I'll do 2 doses of tenacity 30 days apart with the first being at seeding. I believe the label says not to apply Prodiamine until grass is 60 days old. But I don't have it in front of me.


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## gm560 (Feb 22, 2018)

Chris LI said:


> @gm560
> It sounds like you read up on the Philes Phertilizer Lecture (Google it, if you haven't) . I'm planning on some some spoonfeeding of urea for all of my overseeding/mini renos/dormant seeding that I did during the fall/winter. I plan on going easy, so as to not push too much N (.25 N weekly or biweekly, as I constantly evaluate). In your case, I would go with Tenacity. If that's too time consuming for you, the Scotts starter with mesotrione should be fine. I'm not sure if it would light up the poa, as it's more of a soil app, than foliar/soil app.


I think I read some some posts that referenced it. Thanks for the tip on the full lecture name. When will you start your spoon feeding?


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## SpiveyJr (Jun 7, 2018)

I had some mulch beds dug out and filled in and seeded in the spring one year and the grass came in great and thick, until the fungus thinned it out. Where I went wrong with it was putting seed down extra thick, and watering it too much throughout the year.

My advice is to be mindful of fungus.


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## Chris LI (Oct 26, 2018)

gm560 said:


> Chris LI said:
> 
> 
> > @gm560
> ...


I have a little time to go before I start spoonfeeding urea. I'm thinking that it will be sometime during the first week of April. I'm waiting until the lawn fully wakes up. I don't want to force top growth and deplete carb resources by dropping N too early. I seeded in the fall and dormant seeded, and will probably spot spring seed, so timing may be critical, as the baby grass needs food. (I tried to give you the short version first). When I have time, I try to evaluate the lawn daily, when I can, to plan, keep ahead of problems, and for stress relief. 

I noticed that the soil temp for your area is 
similar to mine according to Greencast online (from Syngenta), but a smidge higher. The ocean keeps us a little cooler in the spring and a little warmer in the fall.


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## Confederate Lawn (Apr 4, 2018)

quattljl said:


> @Confederate Lawn yes I have lots of leveling to do. I'll address any drainage issues after the lawn is level and I actually have grass. My yard has historically been a crabgrass lawn so it dies out and leaves me with bare soil during the fall/winter only exacerbating the drainage issues.


@quattljl Sounds like we have very similar yard challenges. I too get Crabgrass like crazy. and its really healthy crabgrass too


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## pennstater2005 (Jul 17, 2017)

I've a few areas for spring seeding. It went ok last year when I did it. Too shady and I need more fine fescues this time.


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## SuMMa (Mar 25, 2019)

I normally don't spring seed but last year I had some Bermuda creep in from both sides of my yard. Both neighbors do not take care of there weeds so its a challenge on the side. I sprayed and killed what I could of the Bermuda this past summer/fall and now I plan to overseed this spring. The grass seed I've decided to go with is GCI Premium Turf Type Tall Fescue. I do plan on spraying Tenacity down the day before I aerate, seed, fert this weekend to help keep weeds down to a minimum until early summer when I can lay down Prodiamine. Has anyone else used the GCI Premium TTTF before, label says its mixed with Rendition, Escalade, and Falcon III fescue.

Thanks for looking over my question - Take any advice being I've never used Tenacity before


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## zinger565 (Nov 28, 2017)

jjepeto said:


> My strategy:
> 
> Cultivating, leveling, topsoil, leveling (almost done)
> Seed down
> ...


I plan to follow something similar, maybe without the humid. However, is there any reason I can't do 1-4 ahead of time? GDD tracker has crabgrass pre-em out another couple of weeks, but I have some significant free time this weekend to complete some work and put down seed, while following up with Tenacity later.


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

zinger565 said:


> jjepeto said:
> 
> 
> > My strategy:
> ...


I'm not sure how it would work for you, that sounds almost like a quasi-dormant seeding strategy. My climate is different from yours so I felt like I had to do it all at once. Plus the birds are very active right now so the longer seeds are sitting on the bare ground the more chance they get eaten before germinating, no matter how much I cover them. But, I feel like with spring seeding, it's better to be a little early than late because the summer heat and disease are the biggest threat. As far as waiting for the Tenacity, that would probably be fine. Because I'm already at the crabgrass germination soil temp I plan on doing a second tenacity application 30 days after the first one, which would be well after germination.


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## ryeguy (Sep 28, 2017)

zinger565 said:


> jjepeto said:
> 
> 
> > My strategy:
> ...


Tenacity is meant to be applied at seed down time. It isn't recommended at all stages of growth. The label goes into specifics, but I believe it's within a couple of days of seed down time or 4 weeks after germination. If you wait too long you might miss your window.


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## Jconnelly6b (Mar 4, 2018)

@SuMMa I suggest spraying Tenacity _after_ you aerate and put the seed down. This way you will also get the short benefit of the pre-m barrier.

If you aerate the day after, you will disturb the barrier and have trouble with weeds in short order.


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## zinger565 (Nov 28, 2017)

ryeguy said:


> zinger565 said:
> 
> 
> > jjepeto said:
> ...


Thanks for the explanation. Makes sense.


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## Darrell_KC (Mar 20, 2019)

I had a quick question on tenacity and seeding. I have spots that also need a leveling and overseeding. Just to make sure I understand, I would do the leveling first with the new topsoil, then plant the seed and cover all of the lawn with a spray for tenacity? That won't hurt the new seed thats laid down?


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## jessehurlburt (Oct 18, 2017)

Darrell_KC said:


> I had a quick question on tenacity and seeding. I have spots that also need a leveling and overseeding. Just to make sure I understand, I would do the leveling first with the new topsoil, then plant the seed and cover all of the lawn with a spray for tenacity? That won't hurt the new seed thats laid down?


Tenacity is designed to prevent weeds from germinating while allowing grass seed to germinate. It may slightly discolor the new seedlings for a few weeks, but it really is a wonderful product for spring seeding. As always check the label for specifics around different grass types, etc. Calibrating and practicing with your sprayer are very important to getting an even application. I would also suggest a marker dye. Is this your first time using a backpack sprayer?


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## Darrell_KC (Mar 20, 2019)

It will be. Never heard of this stuff until I signed up to this board. Like some others here, I have a new construction hodgepodge of grasses and God knows what. The north side of my property is bordered by a large open field that has recently been bulldozed to prep for new houses. In the past, Ive had big issues with field grasses creeping into my lawn. I dont know what the name is, but its native grass and will grow to about 6 feet high and width about the size of a finger. Im hoping this year that with a good weed treatment, I can get ahead of stuff before it gets going, and find out just how bad my weed issues really were


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## jessehurlburt (Oct 18, 2017)

Here's a video on how to calibrate. Check it out and def practice a few times before game day.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfqC7kvVO2E

Good luck!
Jesse


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## Darrell_KC (Mar 20, 2019)

Thanks very much!


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## TheLawnNewbie (Jul 31, 2018)

I'm doing the second half of my Reno on my front yard this spring. 

I'm far north so heat really isn't to big of a deal so I figure might as well try.


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## Darrell_KC (Mar 20, 2019)

Sorry, one more question on tenacity. Will this stop bermuda seed from growing? I am planning on trying to grow some yukon bermuda seed in my backyard to see if it takes, but I read bermuda grass is sensitive to Tenacity. If so, what Pre-E should I use for bermuda seed?


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## srmorris2 (Aug 31, 2018)

Picked up my seed and Tupersan today! Getting close to dropping this on the yard.


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

It's happening! Good luck to all those in cooler climates getting ready to throw down.










This is day 8 since the seed was put down. But the sprinklers have been shut off as we get ready for a cold spell for a couple days with lows in the mid 30's.


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## Chris LI (Oct 26, 2018)

@TheLawnNewbie 
What kbg cultivars are you using? It looks like you have a lot of shade.

@jjepeto 
What cultivars are you using? You have a cornucopia of warm and cool season grasses listed in your profile. I'm guessing your front yard has a full sun southern exposure, due to the bermuda listing. Very interesting.

@gm560 
I have an itchy trigger finger with the urea, but I'm still holding off. It seems that waiting for spring is like watching a pot and waiting for it to boil. We had warmer weather for the first part of the weekend, but temps dropped some today (40's) after the rain. We're down to 39* in the backyard as I post this. Some lows over the next few days are expected to be below freezing. Good luck, all!


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## gm560 (Feb 22, 2018)

Chris LI said:


> @gm560
> I have an itchy trigger finger with the urea, but I'm still holding off. It seems that waiting for spring is like watching a pot and waiting for it to boil. We had warmer weather for the first part of the weekend, but temps dropped some today (40's) after the rain. We're down to 39* in the backyard as I post this. Some lows over the next few days are expected to be below freezing. Good luck, all!


Me, too I guess. I dropped 0.25 lbs of N on yesterday just before the rain. I used the #10 free sample of Screamin' Green I got in the fall. I think I will continue to spoon feed with Screamin' Green, even though the soil microbes might not be quite ready for the organics in it.


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

Chris LI said:


> @jjepeto
> What cultivars are you using? You have a cornucopia of warm and cool season grasses listed in your profile. I'm guessing your front yard has a full sun southern exposure, due to the bermuda listing. Very interesting.


Hah, that's a pretty accurate description of my lawn. I have bermuda in the front which was there when we bought the house (built in 1940, not sure if the bermuda is original to construction). It's the east side of the house and has no tree shade all day, so it gets full east and south, and west exposure until the sun goes below the roof line of the house.

The back yard and side yard are connected and that is what I have been renovating. It gets lots of shade when the one tree on our property has leaves. That is where I have the KBG, Tall fescue blend. The cultivars are Bewitched KBG and Rowdy tall fescue. I threw some creeping red fescue in there for areas that are extra shaded on the little bit that's on the north side of the house. I originally wanted a tall fescue yard, but added the KBG to do some spreading and filling in. Now I like the KBG better, just not sure how it will do in the heat of summer here. I'm going for more of a let the strong survive plan than a pure monostand.

My cultivar selections were based on ratings for shade tolerance and transition zone for KBG and Tall Fescue.

Here's a picture to hopefully better explain it:


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## wtodd_h (Jun 16, 2018)

@jjepeto I am attempting my second Spring lawn renovation since moving into our home in 2010 using Bewitched KBG monostand. Did you ever find any additional information regarding humic/fulvic acid? I assume this product is considered a micro-nutrient soil amendment.


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

wtodd_h said:


> @jjepeto I am attempting my second Spring lawn renovation since moving into our home in 2010 using Bewitched KBG monostand. Did you ever find any additional information regarding humic/fulvic acid? I assume this product is considered a micro-nutrient soil amendment.


I don't have any additional information other than it helping the grass take in nutrients better and develop deeper, stronger roots. I think the name of the game for spring seeding is root development to allow the plants to survive summer, especially in my warmer climate. This should also help reduce watering and therefor the chances of disease. I don't really have any science behind it, but it's a theory, and I'm of the mind that it "can't hurt so why not", a real "thrower down hope for the best" strategy.


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## TheLawnNewbie (Jul 31, 2018)

@Chris LI 
I have a couple varieties that are shade tolerant, but our fall up here was rain and clouds most of the fall season. I have a lawn journal I just updated on 29Mar2019 if you are curious into further detail.

This was today with the sun out.


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## kds (Apr 28, 2017)

I'm going to have to seed this year since the tree company tore both yards up. Only doing the front this spring though to be presentable. Need to do some work in the flowerbeds first before I throw seed down since I'll have to drive my truck on the lawn to haul rocks out.


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## srmorris2 (Aug 31, 2018)

Does Tupersan need to go down at exactly the same time has seed? I ask because we're not quite at 55 yet, but I have a good chance on Friday to go ahead and get seed and fert down. I have a pretty busy schedule here for the next few weeks and any opportunity I can get to stay ahead would be helpful. It's looking like April 15-17 will be my 55º soil day.


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## bullet (Mar 4, 2019)

I could use some advice. I'm debating spot seeding my front yard.

I aerated and seeded last fall (Nov 3rd) but I think it was too late. Half my yard is full of juniper saplings and bare spots of mulched debris. The other half is growing pretty well. I also applied Pre_M on March 23rd, but the instructions suggest waiting 12 weeks before seeding. That's June 20th for me which is the day before summer officially starts.



On another thread someone said that the grass would eventually fill up and kill off the saplings. Although i'm skeptical and planning for the worst. What do ya'll think?


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

bullet said:


> I also applied Pre_M on March 23rd, but the instructions suggest waiting 12 weeks before seeding. That's June 20th for me which is the day before summer officially starts.


I'd say you should do an overseed this fall if you've got PreM on the ground. I would spend the summer getting the weeds and junipers under control, then do a full on overseed, maybe put it down slightly heavier than the overseed instructions if you've got bare spots. Also do it in mid September or early October this year.


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## Chris LI (Oct 26, 2018)

+1 on riding the Pre Em wave for the spring. 
This way you can work on your mowing, fertilizing, watering practices, seed selection (and purchasing), homework, etc. By the time it comes to overseeding, you will have gained more knowledge and experience, and will be seeding at the optimal time of year.

Could you post some close up photos?


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## bullet (Mar 4, 2019)

Got it. I will try to get some more pictures tomorrow because it's going to be raining all night tonight.


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## srmorris2 (Aug 31, 2018)

I am planning to put down my Tupersan Pre-m today, but I noticed there's a chance of rain tonight. About a half inch. That shouldn't wash away my Tupersan should it?

Also, I got all my seed and starter fert down yesterday! Just need to find a good source of granular humic in town to put that on the large seeding area (Old flower bed).


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

I can't imagine .5 inches would be bad unless it comes extremely fast or if you have a steep slope. Good luck with your spring seeding!


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## bullet (Mar 4, 2019)

Chris LI said:


> Could you post some close up photos?


Almost forgot to post more pictures. Here's a close up view from yesterday.







That entire area is full of tree (Juniper?) saplings and wild onion plants. I spent about two hours this past weekend pulling up the latter of the two.


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## Chris LI (Oct 26, 2018)

@bullet 
I think that you have more to with there than you realize. I see some grass babies in there. Just nurse them along with water, and go gentle with the fertilizer. Focus on gradually thickening the turf. Be careful in not trying to eradicate the weeds, as some herbicides (and hand pulling) can be rough on them (I wiped some seedlings out with 2, 4D a dozen or so years back, even though I had a few mowings in on them, and had to reseed). If you don't have Tenacity, look into getting some and read up on its usage.


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## MassHole (Jun 27, 2018)

I spot seeded Saturday, and put down Scotts Starter with Mesotrione (dethatched, covered with Mirimichi Carbonizer, peat moss).

Thoughts on what to do next for fert / pre-emergent to ensure it grows weed free? Spray Tenacity in 4 weeks? 6 weeks? Wait for 2 mowings and put put down Lesco 19-0-7 with Dimension in 6 weeks?


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## Jconnelly6b (Mar 4, 2018)

I would not go too heavy on N on the new seed. How much of your lawn did you seed? Do you want to prioritize babying the new seedlings, or feeding the rest of your lawn?


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

Looks like I might need to mow this spring seeding project before too much longer. Had some great temps and a couple well timed rain events allowed me to not run sprinklers for the last 5 days

When do people usually start mowing a newly seeded lawn? I've heard early and often to promote thickening ASAP. I mowed my fall renovation around 2.25" for the first 4 mows before bumping it up to around 3".


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## Green (Dec 24, 2017)

jjepeto said:


> When do people usually start mowing a newly seeded lawn? I've heard early and often to promote thickening ASAP. I mowed my fall renovation around 2.25" for the first 4 mows before bumping it up to around 3".


Right now, based on that photo!


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## Coy9901 (Oct 15, 2018)

Overseeded on 30 March here in Dover, DE. I bought seed from Newsom seed in Maryland. Ipurchased:
4th Millenium
Titanium 2LS
Top Choice Blend:
-Screamer LS
-Firescracker LS
-Raptor III
Pennington Tri-Fescue blend

It's day 10 meow, and I've got germination!

I mowed low, starter fert, slit seeded, rolled the dirt/lawn, Tenacity


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## jjepeto (Jan 27, 2019)

Green said:


> jjepeto said:
> 
> 
> > When do people usually start mowing a newly seeded lawn? I've heard early and often to promote thickening ASAP. I mowed my fall renovation around 2.25" for the first 4 mows before bumping it up to around 3".
> ...


Haha. Yes, I'm hoping to get it mowed tomorrow or Thursday. We just had a bunch of rain about 24 hours ago so I want to give it another day.

@Coy9901 congrats on your germination! Very exciting feeling.


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