# Fall fertilization of cool season grasses in the transition zone



## j4c11

So we've all read the Fall Nitrogen Blitz, but a lot of that info seems geared towards lawns north of the Mason-Dixon line. Now that there's a few of us growing KBG in VA, NC and TN, the question is what is the best late-fall fertilizer schedule for cool season grasses in this area? I will say that bluegrass continued to grow for me through winter, and I mowed every 2 weeks last winter.

The NC A&T SU Research Farm weather station near me reported the following weather conditions in the past 12 month:










It looks to me like soil temps are ideal for root growth between October and April. So how do we fertilize to best take advantage of these conditions?


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## g-man

I researched a bit about this in the past. Universities recommend between 0.25-0.5lb of N/M in the growing months, unless the ground is frozen.

https://pubs.ext.vt.edu/content/dam/pubs_ext_vt_edu/430/430-523/430-523_pdf.pdf

Other skip Dec-January:
https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/tall-fescue-and-kentucky-bluegrass-home-lawn-calendar

I'm sure others will chime in.


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## social port

Very interesting post.
I'm not really sure about the best way to interpret that information, but looking at the numbers, it almost seems like we should be moving reno efforts back to October and November. Isn't 55 or so soil temp the sweet spot for germination? And soil temps of 45 degrees don't scare me. Won't cool season grasses still thrive at soil temps of 45? I know that this isn't directly related to fertilization, but it is germane to how we think about our 'cool season' in the transition zone.


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## LawnNerd

I think the biggest issue with later seed down dates in the transition zone is sunlight and air temps.

I threw down seed on Aug. 7th this year and the area in question was 100% sunlight. By mid october that area was 90% shade, and 100% shade now from the low angle of the sun behind a neighbors tree. I also started some additional pots in Sept. and those pots are in a very sunny location. They are slowly creeping out of pout. They have been fertilized like the rest of the yard, it's just slow going with the weaker sunlight from the lower angle of the sun. Now that the trees are almost bare, sunlight will increase in my yard, and i'll probably get another good surge of growth.

Another thing is, while soil temps may never freeze, the air certainly does. It's going to be 26 here on Friday and Saturday night. If one where to have seeded KBG on Oct. 1st that KBG would be at most 4 weeks old and most of the seed would be only 2-3 weeks old. I can't imagine these freezing temps would be good for these tender younglings. TTTF would definitly be more mature by then, but i'm uncertain to it's hardiness. Maybe someone else can chime in on this.

It aint easy goings for us in the T-zone seeing as we have to seed cool season grasses at a time when it could either be 80 or 100 degrees, and more likely than not it's both.

The question I wonder is about is Phosphorous. I see that NC State recommends a 4-1-2 balance in the fall as late as November. I know it's a big No No for any P and K for notherners due to frozen ground and increase in snow molds. Since we don't have to worry about extended snow cover, are P and K big No No's for us as well?

In regards to N, I'm going to shoot for a give-n-take method. I want to take advantage of our extended season, but i don't want to push tender new growth when a big cold snap is coming. (a cold snap for me is lows in the teens, and maybe once every 2-3 years we will get single digits :lol: ) But If it's not going to get below freezing for a week or more (this is normal for me) then i might throw out .25#N / M. This will be my first year doing this on KBG so it's really a learning process for me as well.


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## j4c11

Keep in mind, that is soil temperature measured at 4", so the surface temp where the seed sits is going to be different and much closer to air temperature.


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## social port

I didn't even consider sunlight and surface temp vs soil temp. OK, so it sounds like there is nothing in the chart that would suggest a reason for changing the typical seeding/reseeding timeframe (late August-late September).

LawnNerd's strategy for fertilizing reminds me of a point made in a recent video by Pete from GCI Turf: Don't judge by a calendar. Instead, rely on weather forecasting.

I, too, would like to push the season as much as possible, especially since I am trying to correct P and K soil deficiencies. I don't want to fertilize in the spring, so small doses over the course of winter (unless the ground is frozen) is a really appealing idea.


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## vnephologist

I'm still pushing -0.5 lb N/M a week and ~0.33 oz/M PGR bi-weekly. The way I figure it, the more root growth I can promote without heat and humidity, the better. Regarding soil temps, I just finally had some poa germinate this past week. We're definitely on a different schedule down here.


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## social port

What is the 'M' abbreviation that you guys are using? I thought that the standard terms were per thousand square feet or per Acre
Also, vnephologist, where is your root growth coming from? Does the combination of nitrogen and PGR promote root growth?


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## ken-n-nancy

social port said:


> What is the 'M' abbreviation that you guys are using? I thought that the standard terms were per thousand square feet or per Acre.


The use of "M" for 1000sqft is traditional usage in the turf industry, particularly in the USA. Using "M" as an abbreviation for 1000 goes way back -- M is the Roman numeral for 1000.

An advantage of using "M" for agricultural usage is that it avoids confusion that can arise from using "k" for 1000 and having "K" be the chemical symbol for Potassium. There is no chemical element "M" so there is no confusion about whether "M" is referring to 1000 or a nutrient in the traditional agricultural community.

In other fields, such as finance, the use of "M" for 1000 has fallen out of favor, particularly with increased usage of the metric system. Instead in the field of finance, "k" is generally used for thousand ("k" is the standard metric system abbreviation for "kilo" = 1000) and "M" is generally used for million ("mega" = 1000000).

Personally, in my usage on this forum, I use "K" only for potassium and try to always use "ksqft" instead of just "k" if I'm talking about fertilizer application. For example, my most recent fertilizer application was of urea (46-0-0) at a rate of 1#product/ksqft, which was 0.46#N/ksqft. Back in August I made an application of sulfate of potash (SOP) at 2#product/ksqft, which was 1.0#K/ksqft. Traditional turf managers would have said those applications were at 0.46#N/M and 1.0#K/M.

Furthermore, I personally try to avoid the /M usage to avoid confusion between the traditional agricultural M=1000sqft and the newer metric usage of M=1000000.

For metric unit usage, capitalization conventions, etc., there's a helpful page with generally accepted conventions at the National Institute of Standards and Technology: Writing with Metric Units.


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## vnephologist

social port said:


> Also, vnephologist, where is your root growth coming from? Does the combination of nitrogen and PGR promote root growth?


Yes, the theory is that PGR limits top growth and pushes growth to the root zone.


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## j4c11

ken-n-nancy said:


> social port said:
> 
> 
> 
> What is the 'M' abbreviation that you guys are using? I thought that the standard terms were per thousand square feet or per Acre.
> 
> 
> 
> The use of "M" for 1000sqft is traditional usage in the turf industry, particularly in the USA. Using "M" as an abbreviation for 1000 goes way back -- M is the Roman numeral for 1000.
Click to expand...

How about square kilofeet :lol: 
If anyone needs a good band name, feel free :lol:


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## LawnNerd

vnephologist said:


> I'm still pushing -0.5 lb N/M a week and ~0.33 oz/M PGR bi-weekly. The way I figure it, the more root growth I can promote without heat and humidity, the better. Regarding soil temps, I just finally had some poa germinate this past week. We're definitely on a different schedule down here.


When will you stop N, or will you stop?



j4c11 said:


> The NC A&T SU Research Farm weather station near me reported the following weather conditions in the past 12 month:


J4c11,

Can you post the link to that site? I'm wondering where they have their their station? Is it on their main campus, or off campus in a secondary site? I'm curious to check out the differences this year between Greensboro and Kernersville. It is definitely a little colder out here than in town. This morning is was 34 at my house, but 43 when i got into town.


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## j4c11

LawnNerd said:


> J4c11,
> 
> Can you post the link to that site? I'm wondering where they have their their station? Is it on their main campus, or off campus in a secondary site? I'm curious to check out the differences this year between Greensboro and Kernersville. It is definitely a little colder out here than in town. This morning is was 34 at my house, but 43 when i got into town.


Sure, I get weather info from CRONOS. The NCAT station is the nearest one to me.

https://climate.ncsu.edu/map/


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## vnephologist

LawnNerd said:


> vnephologist said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still pushing -0.5 lb N/M a week and ~0.33 oz/M PGR bi-weekly. The way I figure it, the more root growth I can promote without heat and humidity, the better. Regarding soil temps, I just finally had some poa germinate this past week. We're definitely on a different schedule down here.
> 
> 
> 
> When will you stop N, or will you stop?
Click to expand...

I was thinking I'd let the weather and signs of growth/color help me determine when to stop. Always open to input from the fine folks here.


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## social port

ken-n-nancy said:


> social port said:
> 
> 
> 
> What is the 'M' abbreviation that you guys are using? I thought that the standard terms were per thousand square feet or per Acre.
> 
> 
> 
> The use of "M" for 1000sqft is traditional usage in the turf industry, particularly in the USA. Using "M" as an abbreviation for 1000 goes way back -- M is the Roman numeral for 1000.
> 
> An advantage of using "M" for agricultural usage is that it avoids confusion that can arise from using "k" for 1000 and having "K" be the chemical symbol for Potassium. There is no chemical element "M" so there is no confusion about whether "M" is referring to 1000 or a nutrient in the traditional agricultural community.
> 
> In other fields, such as finance, the use of "M" for 1000 has fallen out of favor, particularly with increased usage of the metric system. Instead in the field of finance, "k" is generally used for thousand ("k" is the standard metric system abbreviation for "kilo" = 1000) and "M" is generally used for million ("mega" = 1000000).
> 
> Personally, in my usage on this forum, I use "K" only for potassium and try to always use "ksqft" instead of just "k" if I'm talking about fertilizer application. For example, my most recent fertilizer application was of urea (46-0-0) at a rate of 1#product/ksqft, which was 0.46#N/ksqft. Back in August I made an application of sulfate of potash (SOP) at 2#product/ksqft, which was 1.0#K/ksqft. Traditional turf managers would have said those applications were at 0.46#N/M and 1.0#K/M.
> 
> Furthermore, I personally try to avoid the /M usage to avoid confusion between the traditional agricultural M=1000sqft and the newer metric usage of M=1000000.
> 
> For metric unit usage, capitalization conventions, etc., there's a helpful page with generally accepted conventions at the National Institute of Standards and Technology: Writing with Metric Units.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information and all of the perspective that you provide here. 
The only problem is, now I'm not sure which one I should use. :?


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## social port

vnephologist said:


> I'm still pushing -0.5 lb N/M a week and ~0.33 oz/M PGR bi-weekly. The way I figure it, the more root growth I can promote without heat and humidity, the better. Regarding soil temps, I just finally had some poa germinate this past week. We're definitely on a different schedule down here.


If I am reading correctly, you are putting down close to two pounds of N per month. With the standard recommendation of 1 lb per month, why are you doubling the amount?


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## vnephologist

social port said:


> If I am reading correctly, you are putting down close to two pounds of N per month. With the standard recommendation of 1 lb per month, why are you doubling the amount?


Check out the "PS" at the bottom of g-man's original post... Fall Nitrogen Blitz. There are also some references to these amounts in other renovations here as well, I believe. I think the main downside is mowing frequency, but I've been able to cut at one week intervals with bi-weekly PGR apps. I should also note that the majority of my stand is in year two. Only a few spots that I leveled this Fall have a majority of new seedlings.


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## social port

vnephologist said:


> social port said:
> 
> 
> 
> If I am reading correctly, you are putting down close to two pounds of N per month. With the standard recommendation of 1 lb per month, why are you doubling the amount?
> 
> 
> 
> Check out the "PS" at the bottom of g-man's original post... Fall Nitrogen Blitz. There are also some references to these amounts in other renovations here as well, I believe. I think the main downside is mowing frequency, but I've been able to cut at one week intervals with bi-weekly PGR apps. I should also note that the majority of my stand is in year two. Only a few spots that I leveled this Fall have a majority of new seedlings.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I remember reading that a while ago, but it wasn't in my recall.


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## LawnNerd

Vnephologist is "spoon feeding" the nitrogen. TTTF isn't as nitrogen hungry as KBG, so i can't say i would recommend spoon feeding TTTF. I'd stick to the 1#N / M (real quick, just use which abbrv. you prefer) for TTTF.

Question for the group, now that we are getting into cooler temps, do any of you switch to AS or AN?


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## vnephologist

LawnNerd said:


> Question for the group, now that we are getting into cooler temps, do any of you switch to AS or AN?


Oh good point! I might need to make the switch to AS this weekend. As osuturfman said "Urea requires an enzyme, known as urease, that's present in the soil to break it down into plant available forms of nitrogen. Urease is marginally effective at soil temperatures below 50 degrees F." ... "The bottom line is, use AS in the early spring and late fall and urea from late spring through early fall for best results." Also noting... "Higher carrier volumes when spraying ammonium sulfate (2.5+ gal/M) and irrigating within an hour of spraying the material."

[Edit to add soil temp chart]


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## social port

LawnNerd said:


> Vnephologist is "spoon feeding" the nitrogen. TTTF isn't as nitrogen hungry as KBG, so i can't say i would recommend spoon feeding TTTF. I'd stick to the 1#N / M (real quick, just use which abbrv. you prefer) for TTTF.
> 
> Question for the group, now that we are getting into cooler temps, do any of you switch to AS or AN?


 :thumbup: 
No plans for spoon feeding. I like applying granular too much right now to shake things up.


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## j4c11

LawnNerd said:


> Question for the group, now that we are getting into cooler temps, do any of you switch to AS or AN?


I just purchased a 50 lb bag of AS from Green Resource for that purpose. Going to start cutting off the urea. I also got 50 lbs of DAP, going to try to give the bluegrass some excess phosphorus to see how that affects rhizome production, so I'm going to do a mix of DAP and AS.


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## thegrassfactor

j4c11 said:


> LawnNerd said:
> 
> 
> 
> Question for the group, now that we are getting into cooler temps, do any of you switch to AS or AN?
> 
> 
> 
> I just purchased a 50 lb bag of AS from Green Resource for that purpose. Going to start cutting off the urea. I also got 50 lbs of DAP, going to try to give the bluegrass some excess phosphorus to see how that affects rhizome production, so I'm going to do a mix of DAP and AS.
Click to expand...

I'm interested in how your DAP does with rhizome production. I may steal that idea and do the same with my rhizomatous tall fescue. I had previously planned on just hammering it with Ca Nitrate.

I start my last round on cool season Monday. I have a pallet of 19-0-5 AMS - SOP to use up and then its all 21-0-0


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## LawnNerd

j4c11 said:


> I just purchased a 50 lb bag of AS from Green Resource for that purpose.


I was just looking at their site Friday to see if they had any. They didn't have anything on the website, but glad to know it's there anyways.



social port said:


> Very interesting post.
> ... it almost seems like we should be moving reno efforts back to October and November. ...


Well, while i was mulch mowing Sat. my neighbor had his yard aerated and seeded (i guess the domination finally got to him  ) . I guess we'll see how seeding this late turns out. I'll keep you guys updated on his yard. Caveat: He has no grass currently (just dead crabgrass), there was no top dressing, and i don't think he'll water any... so I doubt this will be great example.


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## j4c11

LawnNerd said:


> I was just looking at their site Friday to see if they had any. They didn't have anything on the website, but glad to know it's there anyways.


Their website is the worst, but the people there are great. They have almost anything you could ever want for lawn care, except ammonium nitrate :lol:


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## LawnNerd

j4c11 said:


> LawnNerd said:
> 
> 
> 
> I was just looking at their site Friday to see if they had any. They didn't have anything on the website, but glad to know it's there anyways.
> 
> 
> 
> Their website is the worst, but the people there are great. They have almost anything you could ever want for lawn care, except ammonium nitrate :lol:
Click to expand...

I can't seem to understand why... I mean the results are pretty :airquote: explosive...


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## LawnNerd

Well, pain point for me these last 2 years is drought conditions in back to back falls. I'm actually going to have to water. Haven't had a good deep soaking rain of more than .5" in probably over 6 weeks. And the last time it did, it rained the 1" in about a 30 minute torrential downpour that pretty much all just ran off to the creek. I just keep getting these sporadic .1 - .25 rainfalls.  If it wasn't for the cooler temps and low e.t. the lawn would be in really rough shape. I am starting to notice some curling along the road and driveway, and i just want to get water deep instead of it just being on the surface. :x


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## j4c11

Yep. The other problem is getting fertilizer to the grass. I had to bite the bullet and water as well last weekend.


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## vnephologist

Same boat. Was hoping to have gotten more overnight, but we only ended up with 0.18. Rachio wants to run on Friday, but I'm starting to see some signs. Now just gotta get all the leaves off first.


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## LawnNerd

Yea, im going to drop AS here before i water. Crappy part is, it takes me 12 hours to get 1" down with my impacts. Ugh, i thought i was done schlepping hoses.


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## vnephologist

LawnNerd said:


> Yea, im going to drop AS here before i water. Crappy part is, it takes me 12 hours to get 1" down with my impacts. Ugh, i thought i was done schlepping hoses.


Let me know when you want to do it and I'll come down for a weekend and help you put in irrigation.


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## LawnNerd

vnephologist said:


> LawnNerd said:
> 
> 
> 
> Yea, im going to drop AS here before i water. Crappy part is, it takes me 12 hours to get 1" down with my impacts. Ugh, i thought i was done schlepping hoses.
> 
> 
> 
> Let me know when you want to do it and I'll come down for a weekend and help you put in irrigation.
Click to expand...

Be careful there, i might actually take you up on that. I've got it all mapped out in vizio, to scale, and down to every brick in the pathway. I'm held up on the backflow preventor. Ive got a decent grade that come from the street down to the house, so I'll need a heavy duty backflow preventor on my system.


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## vnephologist

I ended up with a Febco 825YA. You can still find a few of the models with lead for a pretty good deal.


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## LawnNerd

Went to water Monday morning, and realized none of the sprinklers were running. It was above freezing and 36 outside, but yea, this happeend....



Learned the hard way that 36 degrees was at 6 feet high (height of thermometer at the airport), and not at ground level... Oops. :lol:

If i have to water again and it's going to be in the mid 30's i'll run all the water out of the hoses and leave them sitting up connected dry.

Ohh and excuse the really badly cut grass. Long Story short i have to get the leaves off the lawn on Wednesday (we were hosting the Thanksgiving dinner) and the Toro was acting up, so i had to use the riding mower. I haven't sharpened that blade in over a year as i never use it.


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## LawnNerd

Well I'm dormant. After the last 2 weeks with soil temps in the upper 30's @ 4" depth, it's not grown any. That early season snowfall is what did it for me. I was still getting an 1" or maybe a little less every 2 weeks. Now i haven't mowed since right after thanksgiving, and it hasn't grown.

So this is what it feels like for the rest of the cool season guys where the lawn goes dormant for months..... This sucks... :crying:


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## j4c11

My grass has taken quite a hit from the very cold weather this December. The fescue is going brown - I've never seen it do that before. The bluegrass however, it doesn't mind the cold that much. Heavy spreading activity going on right now based on my test pot.


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## LawnNerd

Pretty sure I've got winter dessication here, and its about to get worse. The lack of rain and snow cover with these really cold (for us atleast) dry days is going to zap the remaining moisture. If it doesn't rain before the next warm up, im probably going to water again when it does warm back up.

But like you, my KBG doesn't seem to bothered by the temps. Lol


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## vnephologist

Same here. My section overseeded with Firecracker SLS is definitely looking worse than the KBG only sections. Rachio has freeze skipped for almost a week now, but hoping Wed is warm enough to add some moisture. Soil temp probe at ~5" is sitting at 38F.


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## social port

After reading about these changes with your fescue, I've been anxiously looking for signs of damage. I hadn't noticed any until the past week, after temperatures wavered between the 20s and single digits for nearly a week. 
There is a light brown cast to most of my grass. Other fescue lawns in the neighborhood look similar--although much more pronounced than mine.

We've had a warm-up and several periods of rain since the freeze. I haven't noticed an improved appearance yet.


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## Green

social port said:


> LawnNerd said:
> 
> 
> 
> Vnephologist is "spoon feeding" the nitrogen. TTTF isn't as nitrogen hungry as KBG, so i can't say i would recommend spoon feeding TTTF. I'd stick to the 1#N / M (real quick, just use which abbrv. you prefer) for TTTF.
> 
> Question for the group, now that we are getting into cooler temps, do any of you switch to AS or AN?
> 
> 
> 
> :thumbup:
> No plans for spoon feeding. I like applying granular too much right now to shake things up.
Click to expand...

If the TTTF is younger, it can benefit from spoon feeding and/or more nitrogen per year. But as the lawn matures, there's evidence showing that it becomes less Nitrogen-hungry and actually benefits from reducing the Nitrogen input. A mature TTTF lawn (over 5 years old) only really needs 2-3 lbs per thousand per year in many cases. Even a mature KBG lawn doesn't need as much as a younger KBG lawn, in most cases. In some parts of the transition zone though, it might be tough to apply Spring N without getting increased disease during Summer.


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## social port

Green said:


> social port said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> LawnNerd said:
> 
> 
> 
> Vnephologist is "spoon feeding" the nitrogen. TTTF isn't as nitrogen hungry as KBG, so i can't say i would recommend spoon feeding TTTF. I'd stick to the 1#N / M (real quick, just use which abbrv. you prefer) for TTTF.
> 
> Question for the group, now that we are getting into cooler temps, do any of you switch to AS or AN?
> 
> 
> 
> :thumbup:
> No plans for spoon feeding. I like applying granular too much right now to shake things up.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If the TTTF us younger, it can benefit from spoon feeding and/or more nitrogen per year. But as the lawn matures, there's evidence showing that it becomes less Nitrogen-hungry and actually benefits from reducing the Nitrogen input. A mature TTTF lawn (over 5 years old) only really needs 2-3 lbs per thousand per year in many cases. Even a mature KBG lawn doesn't need as much as a younger KBG lawn, in most cases. In some parts of the transition zone though, it might be tough to apply Spring N without getting increased disease during Summer.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info here. This is information that I haven't come across. 
I would have guessed that stating the age of a fescue lawn would be complicated by annual reseeding.


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## vnephologist

So here's a pic I took yesterday after cleaning up the yard a bit. It offers a good color comparison between all KBG vs KBG/TTTF. Strip on the left is my KBG mix w/Firecracker SLS TTTF, two sections on the right are KBG only. You can see the KBG/TTTF has more of a hazy brown appearance. If it were all TTTF, I imagine it would be much worse. For reference, I just checked my spreadsheet and it looks like it was spoonfed a total of 6.029lbs/M this Fall.



In other news, at close inspection, it seems my Mazama planted pots are really outperforming in the cooler temps. They can be easily spotted amongst the other KBG.


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## LawnNerd

social port said:


> After reading about these changes with your fescue, I've been anxiously looking for signs of damage. I hadn't noticed any until the past week, after temperatures wavered between the 20s and single digits for nearly a week.
> There is a light brown cast to most of my grass. Other fescue lawns in the neighborhood look similar--although much more pronounced than mine.
> ...


You mean like this? 





I have not fared well with the overall color this winter.  You can see here that it's still alive and green under the canopy where it's slightly sheltered, but the tops are dead / done for. It'll bounce back, with the help of the Fall Nit. Biltz.

And just for the heck of it, here's where it was just before Halloween.


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## social port

LawnNerd said:


> social port said:
> 
> 
> 
> After reading about these changes with your fescue, I've been anxiously looking for signs of damage. I hadn't noticed any until the past week, after temperatures wavered between the 20s and single digits for nearly a week.
> There is a light brown cast to most of my grass. Other fescue lawns in the neighborhood look similar--although much more pronounced than mine.
> ...
> 
> 
> 
> You mean like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have not fared well with the overall color this winter.  You can see here that it's still alive and green under the canopy where it's slightly sheltered, but the tops are dead / done for. It'll bounce back, with the help of the Fall Nit. Biltz.
> 
> And just for the heck of it, here's where it was just before Halloween.
Click to expand...

Yes, like that. I don't remember a winter when it has been so cold so often. 
I'm going to post my own before and after pictures once the snow melts this weekend.


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## Green

As someone in the North with Tall Fescue, I can tell you that what you're seeing is normal from the cold. I wouldn't even call it "damage". Just seasonal browning that should recover fully in the early Spring. I haven't seen Tall Fescue killed from cold in the 5 years I've had it, and it's gotten to -5 or below at least once almost every year, with a lot of periods in the single digits at night.


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## social port

Here are my before-and-after pics...from 11/25 and from 1/23, after days of ice, snow, and teen/single digit temps.





Thanks for the input, Green. Looking forward to that spring green-up.


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## vnephologist

Its a very interesting TTTF to KBG comparison for me. The couple of really warm days we've had appear to have produced some new tillers on my KBG. My TTTF is definitely asleep. Guess we'll see a reversal come summer.


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## vnephologist

Already starting to see a significant green up here and the lawn care trucks have been all around spraying the past few days. Think they're putting down pre-m and starting now to get to all clients in time, or are they spraying nitrogen? A few parts of my lawn where the dog accidentally went are looking so good that I'm tempted to put down to grow out these brown TTTF tips.  How are you other transition guys looking? Thoughts?


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## FlyMike

I'm in the same boat as you. Mine is greening up very well with just a very small amount if brown spots left. I don't own a dog, but I could definitely tell where they peed over the winter because they shot up and we're super green.

My sprayer broke, so I'm putting down some granular pre-m today. It's also 19-0-7, and all the nitrogen is urea so we'll see how a little dose will work out.


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## social port

Just as @Green suggested, my fescue is greening up nicely. I'm not at 100% green yet, but it's not far away I'd say.
I'm applying fertilizer and tenacity this weekend. I've already identified several broadleaf weeds, and I have some wild garlic that has been hanging around all winter. Also, this morning I identified what I believe is...crabgrass.


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## J_nick

@social port I think it's a bit early for crabgrass


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## social port

@J_nick Hmm...sounds like I need to get over to the weed ID thread stat!


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## FlyMike

Just a short follow up. I put down my pre-emergent that was also 19-0-7 a few days ago and my lawn is really green now. I'm not sure if it's due to the fertilizer, wet warm weather, or a combo.


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## 440mag

Ha! Just coming across this thread after swinging by g-man's "Fall Nitrogen Blitz" thread for a refresher, great stuff! :thumbup:

LOL, sure wish I'd happened by before yesterday as yesterday is when I went to So States and bought two *0-lb bags for 46-0-0 urea - after reading through this thread I glean I should be switching to AS (which my Rural King had this last summer).

My soil temps are still in the mid-60's; however; even with 28k sf, I doubt I'll be able to broadcast spread 100-lbs of granular urea before mid December ... at least judiciously enough to protect my new TTTF overseed seedlings ...

Def have to make a note about transitioning to AS next late Fall ... :lol:


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