# Discoloration on grass



## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Anyone know why this grass is discolored in some areas? Too much water? Disease? Grass is nearly 4 weeks old, fescue.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

That looks like a fungus from too much water.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Great...is it at all possible that this will repair if I let it dry out, or is a chemical absolutely necessary at this point? Thanks for your help here, g-man.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

It is a young grass without competition. I would let it dry first, but keep an eye on it and be ready to apply chemicals if it gets worst.


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

What kind of grass do you have? It looks kind of like bermuda.

Would you mind updating your location with a city and state so we could possibly help you better knowing where you are geographically?


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

The original post says "4 weeks old fescue".


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## Mightyquinn (Jan 31, 2017)

g-man said:


> The original post says "4 weeks old fescue".


Thanks :thumbup: I don't know how I missed that :shock:


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

g-man said:


> It is a young grass without competition. I would let it dry first, but keep an eye on it and be ready to apply chemicals if it gets worst.


Will do. There has been a lot of rain over the last three days, but the forecast is 70s and 80s with low humidity for the next several days. Between these favorable changes in weather conditions and a cessation of watering on my part, perhaps the little babies will pull through. I suppose it is about time that I encourage deeper root growth by changing to a biweekly watering schedule. Thanks again, g-man.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Mightyquinn said:


> What kind of grass do you have? It looks kind of like bermuda.


If that is bermuda, then I'm done. Finito. Fin. Grande finale. I already have enough bermuda that I am trying to control. What a cruel irony for planted fescue to come up as bermuda.



Mightyquinn said:


> Would you mind updating your location with a city and state so we could possibly help you better knowing where you are geographically?


Took care of that; thanks!


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

social port said:


> I already have enough bermuda that I am trying to control.


Could you explain this? You had Bermuda in this area? Bermuda is part of the ironborn in game of thrones: "What is dead may never die, but rises again harder and stronger".


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

On the eve of applying my first round of Ornamec, the comparison to the ironborn sharpens my sight of the enemy.

(sorry to mislead: No, I never had bermuda growing where the fescue is growing. What is shown in the pictures should be 100% fescue. I have bermuda happily and gluttonously proliferating in other parts of my lawn--and it is my sole mortal enemy. Death and death only.)


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

The grass perked back up once the rain stopped, though it never did completely green. However, we've just had intermittent, heavy rain for the last several days.


That happened in a matter of days.

Here is a close-up after a particularly hard rain today.




Sure looks like a fungus. Sure looks dead. At least I'm having better luck with a thermal blue test patch elsewhere.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Ok, get ready, this is going to be bad news.

I'm sorry to say this, but you don't look to have a lawn. It looks like a failed renovation. When I look at the first image you just posted, it has at least 3 different green plants growing. One of them might be a fescue. One of them is not a grass. And the 3rd one looks like a grassy weed or a warm season grass (I consider Bermuda a weed).

Could you post more pictures of your yard? I'm just trying to gauge how extensive the problem could be to recommend a course of action.


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## LIgrass (May 26, 2017)

Maybe damping off. https://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/diseases/damping-off/


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Hey g-man,

I think your assessment of the lawn is correct. I knew that things were not going well, but hearing from someone with expertise confirms my impressions.

All of my pictures are of the lawn freshly mowed-when it looks best. I'll try to get some new pictures tomorrow to give you a better idea.
But yeah, it is a mess. I believe I have a mix of fescue, fine fescue, clumping (ky31) fescue, crabgrass, Bermuda, clover, banana plantain, and several other grassy weeds. Possibly nutsedge. In addition, I'm pretty sure that the fungus is a widespread problem throughout the lawn. 
My plan was to get whatever I could out of my fescue reseed from several weeks ago. I am also trying to eradicate the current Bermuda invasion. I'll take weeds any day over Bermuda. No Bermuda.
In the coming week I had planned to give the lawn a dose of milorganite (its first dose) and put down a grubworm preventer. 
In August I was planning to do something about the weeds - Tenacity might be the best choice, but I have also been looking at something simpler to use, but with wide coverage (perhaps a Bayer or Ortho product). If the fungus is still around in August, I might apply Heritage or Scott's fungus control (granular is just easier on 18k sqft). Then reseed and apply starter fertilize in early-to-mid September. I've been reading NTEP reports and forum material to narrow down cultivar choices.

The best thing to do is probably to nuke the whole lawn and start fresh in the fall…but I'm just not ready to do this.

I'll welcome any suggestions. Pictures soon.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

LIgrass said:


> Maybe damping off. https://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/yard-garden/diseases/damping-off/


It very well could be. I haven't checked out the roots yet, but that would be a smart thing to do.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Side 1





Back









Side 2






(The discolored areas are dying Bermuda. Rejoice for the small victories)



Front


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Ooh, did I mention areas of soil compaction? Sporadic moss growth? Probably forgot to mention likely alkaline soil-exact number not yet available.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Hmm. There are some pretty bad areas. A reno of those areas might be cheaper than trying to salvage.

I would skip the Milo. It doesn't look like it needs it. You should deal with the fungus now.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Spring planted fescue in the transition zone doesn't have much chance. Even well established fescue suffers with brown patch when it's hot and humid and fescue just does not like our hot summers. I suggest not trying to save it (with fungicides, etc.). The little roots will not make it in 95+ weather day after day. In August you could spot spray weeds with glyphosate and overseed toward the end of the month. Save the Tenacity for seeding and follow-up after seeding. You do not have to completely renovate if you don't want to. You could evaluate the situation later in July and decide what to do (renovate or overseed).


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Thank you both for your suggestions. I knew that I was likely playing a losing game when I reseeded with fescue, but I was banking on a stretch of cooler weather. I did not anticipate the high humidity and that, when combined with overwatering, probably did the most damage. I should have probably elected weed control as the priority back in spring. Beginner's errors.

I've been trying to be mindful of selecting brown patch resistant varieties of TTTF for my reseed. Given that 1) TTTF is prone to fungal diseases and that 2) the humidity gets pretty real down in Tennessee, it does raise the question of why more people aren't trying KBG in Tennessee--not that elite KBG would solve everything. Some of the cultivars did well, however, in Knoxville during the NTEP trials. The quality rating of Midnight, for example, is comparable to some of the high-performing fescues (IF, IF, IF it is legitimate to compare the data this way). I have read, however, personal testimonies about how difficult it is to have success with KBG in places like NC, TN, and GA.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Also, I suppose that I was leaning in the direction of applying a fungicide sooner rather than later, as suggested by g-man--if not to salvage the grass, then to improve the health of the soil.

Is there a reason that I would NOT want to apply a fungicide now? For example, will applying a fungicide inhibit my lawn's ability to 'naturally fight off' infections in the future?


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Yes! Fungicide will harm your mycorrhizae.

Have you read U of Tennessee's publications on turfgrass selection?

https://ag.tennessee.edu/turf/Pages/Turfgrass-Selection.aspx


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

An article on the mycorrhizae:
http://www.puyallup.wsu.edu/~Linda%20Chalker-Scott/Horticultural%20Myths_files/Myths/Mycorrhizae.pdf


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

My recommendation on fungicide is based on your statement to save what you have. The areas that look decent and salvageable then use it if needed. The areas that are lost, don't waste more money and dont harm the good fungi.

As far as what grass to grow in your area, viginiagal nails it. Look at your local university for recommendations. I would not do kbg in the south without more experience and in ground irrigation.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Yes, fungicide is the way to go when you want to save the grass (though I refuse to use it myself). It sounds like the grass is going to die anyway (short roots, hot weather). I was reacting to your idea that fungicide might help the soil. It's a last resort kind of thing to save grass from disease. It has harmful effects on the soil. You weigh one thing against the other and make a decision.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

OK, thanks to both of you for the input. I'll need to do a thorough review of the lawn to see just how much of the seed germinated from my last reseed. Then I will make a decision re fungicide. It is not an easy one to make.

I am familiar with UT's material on turf grass selection, along with several other states. Perhaps it is just me, but I don't find those resources to be particularly helpful. There is a generic quality to much of the information. It leaves me feeling like I've had an overview but very little in the way of a definite guide. I prefer reviewing information from NTEP and experiences from forum members.

After quite a bit of reading on establishing and maintaining a fescue lawn in the (humid) south, I had come to the conclusion that the use of a preventative fungicide was nearly a norm, especially for developing and young fescue lawns. So I am curious, Virginiagal, about what you do when you have a destructive fungal 'infection.' With fescue grass in Virginia, I can't imagine that you are not at risk.

Linda Chalker-Scott has some strong opinions. I read several papers from her site as well as the garden professionals site before I realized that I was falling into a horticulture portal.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

Brown patch is my nemesis. And yes, I have it. What I did this year was use cracked corn in April (25 lb/k) and since early May I have been spraying Serenade weekly (it has a bacteria). I still have brown patch but the grass is hanging in there so far. Patches that had/have a lot of dead leaves have green grass coming back. I think the Serenade is not preventing (certainly not curing) brown patch but may be making the grass a bit stronger so it can recover. In past years once the brown patch hit (usually in June), the affected grass was gone until I reseeded. The cracked corn was a good fertilizer. I don't think it has a fungicide effect, as the rhizotonia solani, though soil borne, attacks leaves. While it's in the soil it has a hard shell. It has been proposed that the corn attracts the trichoderma fungi which would consume the rhizotonia solani (reason I used it). Maybe it might consume other fungi, but the rhizotonia solani seems pretty impervious to attack in the sclerotia stage. As for what I do once the grass dies, I reseed in early fall. I think the reason I have losses in summer is the combination of brown patch and summer heat. The brown patch hits early, stressing the grass. Then the heat comes and finishes the kill. I am being more vigilant about watering this summer hoping to keep the survivors alive.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

If I were you I'd check out local knowledge about what grasses perform best for your location. Ask your neighbors with good grass what it is and what issues they have with it. Call local turfgrass sod suppliers and ask what they offer and what cultivars are included. Talk to people in the business locally about pros and cons. The trouble with NTEP is you find what looks like it would be great and then you can't find it sold anywhere. They use letters and numbers on a number of grasses tested. If you plan to just overseed, keep in mind that KBG takes 2-3 weeks to germinate. The surrounding grass may need to be mowed while the KBG seed is still sitting there ungerminated. It usually works best to plant KBG when you're working with a blank slate.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Virginiagal said:


> Brown patch is my nemesis. And yes, I have it. What I did this year was use cracked corn in April (25 lb/k) and since early May I have been spraying Serenade weekly (it has a bacteria). I still have brown patch but the grass is hanging in there so far. Patches that had/have a lot of dead leaves have green grass coming back. I think the Serenade is not preventing (certainly not curing) brown patch but may be making the grass a bit stronger so it can recover. In past years once the brown patch hit (usually in June), the affected grass was gone until I reseeded. The cracked corn was a good fertilizer. I don't think it has a fungicide effect, as the rhizotonia solani, though soil borne, attacks leaves. While it's in the soil it has a hard shell. It has been proposed that the corn attracts the trichoderma fungi which would consume the rhizotonia solani (reason I used it). Maybe it might consume other fungi, but the rhizotonia solani seems pretty impervious to attack in the sclerotia stage. As for what I do once the grass dies, I reseed in early fall. I think the reason I have losses in summer is the combination of brown patch and summer heat. The brown patch hits early, stressing the grass. Then the heat comes and finishes the kill. I am being more vigilant about watering this summer hoping to keep the survivors alive.


Happy 4th to you, Virginiagal! That makes a lot of sense to me, and thank you for the elaboration. The Lawn Care Nut, of youtubeland, once did a video on fighting high summer temperatures by misting, rather than watering per se, the grass. He used theme parks as an analogy: Misters are used to cool people; why can't they be used to cool grass?

I've heard of using Serenade as a prevention method, but it sounds like results are pretty variable on the whole. What we both need is a highly selective fungicide. I'll let you develop that, and then we can try it on my lawn :thumbup:


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

Let me say that I keep zoysia and bermuda, so my experience with TTTF is limited. Unfortunately, my experience with rhizoctonia solani is not limited. Although the time periods for incident are different with our grasses, I'm betting that the fungicides that work for me will help you as well. The good news - they are both relatively inexpensive. The bad - they aren't labeled for use on residential lawns. Tebuconazole and Clorothalanil have reduced what I was afraid was a complete loss of my back yard two years ago to not even having any symptoms this Spring. I spray Clorothalanil once a week when conditions are right and Tebuconazole once or maybe twice in both the Fall/Spring again depending on conditions. I know your "season" is different than mine, but the gallon of Tebuconazole will last me until it goes bad in the container given that use rate is .6 oz/k.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Virginiagal said:


> If I were you I'd check out local knowledge about what grasses perform best for your location. Ask your neighbors with good grass what it is and what issues they have with it. Call local turfgrass sod suppliers and ask what they offer and what cultivars are included. Talk to people in the business locally about pros and cons. The trouble with NTEP is you find what looks like it would be great and then you can't find it sold anywhere. They use letters and numbers on a number of grasses tested. If you plan to just overseed, keep in mind that KBG takes 2-3 weeks to germinate. The surrounding grass may need to be mowed while the KBG seed is still sitting there ungerminated. It usually works best to plant KBG when you're working with a blank slate.


I have spoken with a good number of people here--from neighbors to Trugreen. I mostly hear fescue, ky31, bermuda, and zoysia. I haven't yet found a good turgrass/seed provider, but that is a good idea. Actually, I'm not too far away from The Hogan Seed Company, and I plan to pay them a visit next month. What luck!

I completely agree with you about NTEP. It is not user friendly in that regard (e.g., searching for cultivar AST-9942Z12). It has been less of an issue for me, however. So many of the TTTF and KBG seeds do well in Tennessee that it leaves me with a lot of options. I'm not planning to go 100% KBG. I may go 100%TTTF, but it is not uncommon to add 10% or so of KBG to help with bare ideas etc. I'm currently having satisfactory results with thermal blue in a test patch. If the thermal blue makes it through the summer, I might mix it with TTTF seeds. I'm not yet confident about how well the two would mix, though. The colors might be off, for example.

Regarding your point about KBG germination -- Isn't that the case with any reseed though: The established area will likely need to be mowed before the newly-germinated grass is really strong enough to be mowed?


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Spammage said:


> Let me say that I keep zoysia and bermuda, so my experience with TTTF is limited. Unfortunately, my experience with rhizoctonia solani is not limited. Although the time periods for incident are different with our grasses, I'm betting that the fungicides that work for me will help you as well. The good news - they are both relatively inexpensive. The bad - they aren't labeled for use on residential lawns. Tebuconazole and Clorothalanil have reduced what I was afraid was a complete loss of my back yard two years ago to not even having any symptoms this Spring. I spray Clorothalanil once a week when conditions are right and Tebuconazole once or maybe twice in both the Fall/Spring again depending on conditions. I know your "season" is different than mine, but the gallon of Tebuconazole will last me until it goes bad in the container given that use rate is .6 oz/k.


Spammage! Thanks for the info here. I will stock this in the memory bank and revisit the option. Currently, I'm still learning the ropes of proper application. For me, it is pretty thrilling to be spraying water and baby shampoo, Ornamec, etc. I have no business doing anything off label right now. Thank you for the info--and something else to research!


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## Spammage (Apr 30, 2017)

I only looked at the last few posts before spewing info at you, so hopefully it won't add to any confusion/frustration you may have.

VG is right in that ideally your soil microbes would be in balance enough to deal with undesirables, but that to me is a very long term goal and one that can't be reached quickly. My new sod came with the fungus, so it was something I never experienced previously and took awhile to properly diagnose and find treatment that worked.

While I understand the desire to move toward a self-sustaining soil population, I also believe if you suffer extreme die-off every year you will give up due to frustration long before you make a significant difference in the soil. Logic tells me that if fungicides were that detrimental to the desirables in the soil, that one application would obliterate the undesirables as well. I know that doesn't happen from personal experience, so I will do what I must to control a problem and continue working toward the long term goal when it doesn't put my hard work and investment at immediate risk.

Hope this helps and good luck with whichever route you take!


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

It does, and I appreciate the points of view here. I think that this is good material for debate. Fungal infections seem to be fairly common, sometimes difficult to identify, and often challenging to treat. And if the treatments themselves can cause damage, then fungal infections must be the great bane of lawn care enthusiasts. There is no perfect solution.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

social port said:


> [
> Regarding your point about KBG germination -- Isn't that the case with any reseed though: The established area will likely need to be mowed before the newly-germinated grass is really strong enough to be mowed?


It's more of a problem with KBG. A lot of TTTF is up in a week and most by two weeks. It may be little but it has roots in the ground and won't be just sucked up by the mower. KBG seed takes longer to germinate and meanwhile the surrounding grass is shading it, making it even harder for the seed to get a good start. How much will your grass grow if you don't mow it for three weeks?


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

I really can't say, but my sense is that the grass would be very high and in need of a cut.

That is a very important point about KBG. It is fair to say that new *** can't tolerate the 'violence' of mowing as well as TTTF?? I wonder how those who mix TTTF and KBG manage that situation? Time for some research.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

They manage by planting the mix on a blank slate (complete renovation). If they overseed, some of the KBG will come up and some won't. If you already have KBG, you don't normally overseed because KBG spreads. There is no need to overseed. Overseeding KBG into anything is a problem because it takes so long to germinate.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

g-man said:


> I would not do kbg in the south without more experience and in ground irrigation.


Virginiagal and g-man, I am back again knocking on a door that says, 'Keep Out.'

After considering recommendations from the both of you, I was planning to do a 100percent TTTF reseed this fall. However, it now looks like I may be doing a full renovation. 
I will likely end up sticking with TTTF for my renovation, but I want to explore options. KBG would be more cost-effective in the long run, it seems, because I would need to overseed every year with TTTF. KBG's spreading eliminates major reseeding requirements. In addition, the thickness provided by KBG might make it less likely for a bermuda invasion in the future (which I currently have).

In those respects, KBG is a reasonable alternative to fescue--except that virtually everyone with an opinion on the matter says that it is very difficult to grow KBG in the south (by that I mean, Georgia, Tennessee, North Carolina, etc).

So what exactly is so difficult about growing KBG in the south? Is it the time required for germination that makes it a poor choice for inexperienced growers? Is it the susceptibility of seeds drying out?


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## j4c11 (Apr 30, 2017)

I'm currently growing KBG in Greensboro NC. I haven't yet found it any more difficult than growing fescue. Drought tolerance is about the same given equal care. The biggest obstacle is establishment - it takes loooong to germinate exposing you to all sorts of perils, and then after it germinates it pouts for a while(like 2-3 weeks). It takes nerves of steel. I don't have an irrigation system, but if you do have one that would make establishment so much simpler. On the plus side, winters are so mild that KBG continues to grow and establish. I mowed through winter, although I must admit I was heavy on the fertilizer. It may be one of the reasons for the success I'm seeing with it, it had a October-May growing season.

Whatever you do, it's important to remember that heat will not kill either fescue or KBG. What will kill them is lack of water and/or fungus. If they have water, they'll live through 100 degree temps no problem.

My advice: put together a mix of 60% TTTF/40% KBG by weight. The KBG will lag initially, but as fescue dies off next summer and the KBG begins to spread next fall you'll start tilting towards a majority KBG lawn. Start a preventive fungicide program in May and keep it going through September. When you seed, apply Tenacity and fungicide at seeding time - the biggest threats to newly established lawns are weeds and fungus. Do not spray Tenacity as post-emergent om fescue, it bleaches real bad. Consider using PGR through spring and summer as a stress pre-conditioner - it helps a lot.


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## Virginiagal (Apr 24, 2017)

The difficulties are similar for any cool season grass. It's a C3 plant trying to survive in a hostile environment in summer. It doesn't do photosynthesis well then.

I suggest calling Hogan Seeds and talking to Bob Hogan. Does anyone in your area grow KBG? If you have neighbors with it, talk to them and see what issues they have. If you have neighbors with great lawns, ask them what they have and how they care for it.


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## GrassDaddy (Mar 21, 2017)

It's been in the 90s here. The KBG is staying green just fine, and needs to be mowed, but it hasn't spread any since it hit high temps. The key is proper watering for sure. My neighbor's lawns are starting to get burnt, one of them is real bad. All this to say I agree with the previous posts about KBG/TTTF being about the same.

And yes it took forever for KBG to establish. So much so that this spring it was still thin. I started seeding too late in the game due to water restrictions, so come winter time it was weak. But once I started feeding it and cutting it the thickness picked up real fast!


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

GrassDaddy said:


> All this to say I agree with the previous posts about KBG/TTTF being about the same.


I've read of several others arriving at this conclusion as well. I suppose that the time required for germination and root development is what throws most people off when growing it in the south.

Thanks for the heads-up on watering. From what I understand, fescue is the same way: Tolerant of the high heat but intolerant of drought. KBG requires even more water than TTTF, I believe.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

Virginiagal said:


> I suggest calling Hogan Seeds and talking to Bob Hogan. Does anyone in your area grow KBG? If you have neighbors with it, talk to them and see what issues they have. If you have neighbors with great lawns, ask them what they have and how they care for it.


I will call him soon and then make a final decision. I can tell you that I don't know of anyone who grows KBG around here. Bermuda and fescue are most common. That doesn't mean KBG wouldn't work here; but there must be a good reason why it isn't grown more often.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

j4c11 said:


> On the plus side, winters are so mild that KBG continues to grow and establish. I mowed through winter, although I must admit I was heavy on the fertilizer. It may be one of the reasons for the success I'm seeing with it, it had a October-May growing season.


How funny. I was just wondering the other day if TTTF and KBG might grow during winters here, given that our winters are getting milder and milder. It seemed like a silly thought, so I just dismissed it. It's awesome that you are observing this with your grass. That gives us a large advantage for establishing the grass in the fall.



j4c11 said:


> put together a mix of 60% TTTF/40% KBG by weight.


Why not 100% KBG? I know that those percentages are misleading--I would likely wind up with more bluegrass than fescue, at least in theory. But why fescue at all? I am thinking specifically of a point made earlier by virginiagal that the fescue will germinate more quickly and will at least somewhat negatively impact KBG germination via shading, needing to mow, etc. Granted, her point was made in reference to a reseed, but it would seem that the basic concerns apply to a renovation as well.



j4c11 said:


> Start a preventive fungicide program in May and keep it going through September.


Do you recommend propiconazole for this? Would serenade suffice, do you think?

Also, I remember talking with you about your success in another post. Are you, by chance, keeping a thread of the work that you are doing with your attempt to grow and maintain KBG in a transition zone?


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## j4c11 (Apr 30, 2017)

social port said:


> How funny. I was just wondering the other day if TTTF and KBG might grow during winters here, given that our winters are getting milder and milder. It seemed like a silly thought, so I just dismissed it. It's awesome that you are observing this with your grass. That gives us a large advantage for establishing the grass in the fall.


In my experience, TTTF does not grow during winter. It stops around end of December. KBG however, it kept on going, it must be more cold tolerant.



social port said:


> Why not 100% KBG? I know that those percentages are misleading--I would likely wind up with more bluegrass than fescue, at least in theory. But why fescue at all? I am thinking specifically of a point made earlier by virginiagal that the fescue will germinate more quickly and will at least somewhat negatively impact KBG germination via shading, needing to mow, etc. Granted, her point was made in reference to a reseed, but it would seem that the basic concerns apply to a renovation as well.


I'm not sure about your level of experience with lawn care. If you want to do 100% KBG you can do that, but KBG is more finicky to establish than fescue. You may have a patchy lawn going into next year and it won't really kick into high gear as far as spreading until next fall.



social port said:


> Do you recommend propiconazole for this? Would serenade suffice, do you think?
> 
> Also, I remember talking with you about your success in another post. Are you, by chance, keeping a thread of the work that you are doing with your attempt to grow and maintain KBG in a transition zone?


I use propiconazole every 2 weeks, went straight for the big guns. I don't know how well Serenade works, but fungal pressure is so high here I'm not going to risk it.

I did keep a thread on GW.


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## social port (Jun 19, 2017)

j4c11 said:


> I'm not sure about your level of experience with lawn care. If you want to do 100% KBG you can do that, but KBG is more finicky to establish than fescue. You may have a patchy lawn going into next year and it won't really kick into high gear as far as spreading until next fall.


I would self-assess as moderately book-smart but not street-smart on the subject of grass. What little experience I have had has ultimately produced failing results. Planning my first successful grow to be KBG in a transition zone is just asking for a poor outcome. I'll probably play it safe with TTTF for now. But I'm inspired by your efforts, and I will be keeping an eye on your results. A few years from now, I might be more suited for the challenge.


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