# The Norwegian lawn journal



## OttarLM (May 2, 2018)

Pictures from the past, summer of 2016

I bought a house with an accompanying salad field



Here you can see my selection of different salads I have to offer.


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## OttarLM (May 2, 2018)

Not all parts of Norway are covered in deep layers of snow, during winter.

25 November 2017


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## OttarLM (May 2, 2018)

Application of lime on dormant lawn.

February 2018


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## OttarLM (May 2, 2018)

10. April +- som days
- Removal of moss, with an aggressive dethatcher.
- overseeding
- Starter Fertilizer 15-3-10 2,5kg / 100m2 = 5Ib/1000ft2 
- Top dressing





- Bury some pipes in the lawn to gain 1 m2 of lawn


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## OttarLM (May 2, 2018)

5. April

I found some new weeds in my lawn.
Dos any one know what it is? I ended up digging them all up.


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## OttarLM (May 2, 2018)

20. April 2018
Ten days after moss removal and fertilizing.
Its starting to green up.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

OttarLM said:


> 5. April
> 
> I found some new weeds in my lawn.
> Dos any one know what it is? I ended up digging them all up.


Wild onion or garlic or tulip.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

OttarLM said:


> 10. April +- som days
> - Removal of moss, with an aggressive dethatcher.
> - overseeding
> - Starter Fertilizer 15-3-10 2,5kg / 100m2 = 5Ib/1000ft2
> ...


What was the purpose of those pipes?


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## OttarLM (May 2, 2018)

What was the purpose of those pipes?
[/quote]

Drainage well for rainwater. The small black pipes can be used when unblocking drain pipes.
Fortunately for me, now derby or other stuff has gathered in the pipes the past 15 years.
If something gets blocked in the future, I now know that it will take me 20 min with a shovel and to wheelbarrow to get access to the pipes. :thumbup:


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## Richard Slater (Aug 25, 2017)

Looking promising, you are possibly my closest TLF neighbour.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Dish soap is a an effective way to kill moss, but it will come back until you address the root cause. Normally you need to improve how the water runs way from the yard and/or build a french ditch. Having cloudy days doesnt help to dry the soil.


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## OttarLM (May 2, 2018)

24. Mai 2018 - Soil Sample

Better late than never, I got my soil tested! :mrgreen: 
Here are the results I got from the analysis:
Soil pH: 6,7 
Organic Matter: > 12%
Phosphorus: 26 mg/100 ml (or 260 ppm?)
Calcium: 9 mg/100 ml (or 90 ppm?)
Nitrogen: 4,5 - 12,5 %

Are there any of you experts that have some good advice on fertilizing

Do you have any good advice @g-man


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## OttarLM (May 2, 2018)

23. Mai 2018
Here is a progress report for the Lawn. The Lawn hav started to thicken in. The weather have been absolutely unheard of for us here in Stavanger. It has been dry, not a drop of water and temperatures from 20 - 30 degrees Celsius (68-86 *F) for the last three weeks! And with the good weather that is forecast, I will have to buy some irrigation equipment. :thumbup:

Around this time, I also applied a bag of organic fertilizer: NPK: 4-2-4 0,037 L/m2 = (7,5 Ib/1000f2 ??????)

Front lawn:

Back lawn:

This is where I dug down the pipes earlier this year:


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## OttarLM (May 2, 2018)

19. Jun 2018 - Quick update
The grass is thick and green, the roses have started to bloom and we have finally started to get some rain again.



I ended up buying a Gardena sprinkler. After some use, I figured that i had to cast it in som cement, because after som use, the spike always came loose after some use.


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

That's a great idea to place the spike in cement.

I'm researching your soil results. I checked the math and it seems to be correct that 1mg/100mL = 10ppm. I need some help with the translation. I think Kalium is Potassium and not calcium. What do the codes (Kode) means? is there another table? I see a nitrogen values 4,5 to 12,5%, but I dont see them in the table.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

You are correct g-man. Kalium is Latin for Potassium (why the symbol "K" is used.)


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## OttarLM (May 2, 2018)

Thanks for the quick reply @g-man & @Ridgerunner 
You guys are right "K" is definitely Potassium.
Kode = Code : This refers to tables I do not have. I have now sendt an e-mail to the lab to get a copy of their tables.
The Nitrogen values are from the column: Moldinnhold, Kode 3. = After some googling, I found a table that showed that code 3 was Nitrogen from 4,5 - 12,5 %.

When I find out what the code for "jordtype"(Soil type) means, I will return with more information. I suspect this is their assessment of the soil's suitability for growing grass, grains, etc.


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## OttarLM (May 2, 2018)

So I finally got a reply from the lab, regarding the soil type code and soil content code.
Soil type code 5 = Sandy soil
soil content code 3 = Soil 4,5 - 12,5 %

To be honest, I have always thought that my soil had high organic values and not that much sand. But that's not what the lab report says.

Did this make you any more wiser, and better equipped to figure out a fertilization plan for my lawn @g-man & @Ridgerunner


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## g-man (Jun 15, 2017)

Let's try something. The info is limited but I think we could give some general guidelines.

First one, the phosphorus is high. You should avoid adding more. Some organic source have it.

Potassium is low. Could you get a source for it?

Sandy soils benefit for more frequent (every 2 weeks) half rate feeding than once a month.

pH looks good at 6,7


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

@OttarLM
I think g-man's assessment is correct. 
However, and I hate to send you on another mission that involves contacting the test lab as they seem to be pretty slow at responding to your inquiries:
1. It might help to know what extraction method was used by the lab for these results.
2. What does the AL in the labels P-*AL* and K-*AL* signify?


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