# Nutsedge in the flower beds



## Rockinar (Jul 21, 2017)

I have pretty bad nutsage invasion in my flower beds. The decomposing mulch layers in my landscape beds have created a foundation for the nutsage to grow in. So the nutsage is growing in the mulch, not the ground.

Any ideas for this that wont nuke the shubs?

Short of removing all the mulch and starting fresh, I dont have any ideas so I just pull it by hand and try to get as much of the runners and nutlet with it.


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Directed spray with Dismiss. 1/2 teaspoon per gallon. Keep off of desirable plants.


----------



## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

Greendoc said:


> Directed spray with Dismiss. 1/2 teaspoon per gallon. Keep off of desirable plants.


@Rockinar I noticed Dismiss is included in the DoMyOwn July 4th Sale.


----------



## viva_oldtrafford (Apr 4, 2018)

Dismiss will work, but Round up will also work (and probably better to be fair). Again, keep it stritcly to the target pest.


----------



## CenlaLowell (Apr 21, 2017)

I would use roundup as well. Use pre emergent in the flower beds when the time comes.


----------



## jonthepain (May 5, 2018)

Difficult to get all the nutlets when pulling by hand.


----------



## Ware (Jan 28, 2017)

I also keep a cheap pump sprayer around with a little roundup mixed up for spot spraying weeds in my beds.

It's not labeled for sedge, but I also keep a Sethoxydim product like Fertilome Over The Top II or Hi Yield Grass Killer. It is safe for ornamentals.


----------



## Guest (Jul 3, 2018)

viva_oldtrafford said:


> Dismiss will work, but Round up will also work (and probably better to be fair). Again, keep it stritcly to the target pest.


What % would you use. I'm using 41% gly Star brand and I have to re spray nutsedge coming up in mulch around the yard. I may just stick to roundup pro in the future. It will yellow the first time and then slowly green back up.


----------



## viva_oldtrafford (Apr 4, 2018)

firefighter11 said:



> viva_oldtrafford said:
> 
> 
> > Dismiss will work, but Round up will also work (and probably better to be fair). Again, keep it stritcly to the target pest.
> ...


41% is what I use too. I mix 1qt/25 gallons - ymmv based upon your calibration


----------



## Ecks from Tex (Apr 26, 2018)

Dismiss. It is rated for ornamentals and many flowers, so less likely to get any damaging overspray on flowers.


----------



## Movingshrub (Jun 12, 2017)

Glyphosate works on sedges? Does it actually kill the nutlets or does it just kill the leaf, and you burn it out of carbs?


----------



## Guest (Jul 3, 2018)

Ecks from Tex said:


> Dismiss. It is rated for ornamentals and many flowers, so less likely to get any damaging overspray on flowers.


Is it worth it over sedgehammer. I guess sedgehammer is a bit slow for my taste... 🤭


----------



## Ecks from Tex (Apr 26, 2018)

firefighter11 said:


> Ecks from Tex said:
> 
> 
> > Dismiss. It is rated for ornamentals and many flowers, so less likely to get any damaging overspray on flowers.
> ...


Not necessarily. They have different active ingredients, and personally i prefer sulfentrazone when possible. But Sedgehammer has a very broad label provision saying it will work for established woody ornamentals. That is actually a good illustration of why I prefer dismiss in the beds - it has a very comprehensive label of the plants it is rated safe for and which ones it is not.


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

I have seen Sedgehammer move downward in the soil and poison various ornamentals. The Sulfentrazone stays closer to the surface and also does something to random small weeds trying to emerge. Many lawn people in Hawaii have found out that ornamentals do not take Sedgehammer very well. That is in dense clay soil that the product has moved down in.


----------



## Ecks from Tex (Apr 26, 2018)

Greendoc said:


> I have seen Sedgehammer move downward in the soil and poison various ornamentals. The Sulfentrazone stays closer to the surface and also does something to random small weeds trying to emerge. Many lawn people in Hawaii have found out that ornamentals do not take Sedgehammer very well. That is in dense clay soil that the product has moved down in.


Interesting. That's why I never trust labels that paint such a broad picture for ornamentals like Sedgehammer


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

No warnings about plants that are intolerant. I also spent enough time in school and the field to know a Sulfonylurea herbicide always moves downward in soil. Why else would that class of chemistry be used as preemergents in corn and grain crops? Broadleaf crops and fruit trees are treated with SU herbicides, however there are warnings about injury to the point of loss in yield. Loss of yield in 10 ft tall fruit trees I can scale down to death of shrubs.


----------



## kur1j (Jul 2, 2017)

Would it be unreasonable to mix Fluazifop and dismiss together to deal with both grassy weeds and sedges in flower beds? My logic is that it would target almost everything like glyphosate without having (as much of) fear of spray getting on desirable plants.


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

That is one of my flower bed weeding mixes. Dismiss also targets a lot of broadleaf weeds as well. There is no Glyphosate applied by me in a plant area unless it is with a paint brush.


----------



## Ecks from Tex (Apr 26, 2018)

Greendoc said:


> There is no Glyphosate applied by me in a plant area unless it is with a paint brush.


Exactly. X2

Some plants are very sensitive to it.


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Azaleas, Roses, and Hibiscus the the ones I know of. Woody flowering shrubs they are, but a little RoundUp and they go down.


----------



## gatormac2112 (Sep 14, 2017)

Ware said:


> Greendoc said:
> 
> 
> > Directed spray with Dismiss. 1/2 teaspoon per gallon. Keep off of desirable plants.
> ...


My mother in law has some broad leaf weeds as well as sedges in her yard. I already have Certainty....would I benefit from Dismiss? Are there any temperature restrictions?


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Dismiss is to stay in the cabinet until it no longer goes above 80 in the daytime. I use Quicksilver+MSM+Certainty on warm season grasses in hot weather. Same efficacy but not as likely to burn a lawn up. I think @TigerinFL lawn guys sprayed his lawn full of Dismiss and burnt it.


----------



## gatormac2112 (Sep 14, 2017)

Greendoc said:


> Dismiss is to stay in the cabinet until it no longer goes above 80 in the daytime. I use Quicksilver+MSM+Certainty on warm season grasses in hot weather. Same efficacy but not as likely to burn a lawn up. I think @TigerinFL lawn guys sprayed his lawn full of Dismiss and burnt it.


Awesome, thanks doc!


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

One more thing. I suspect it is the Dicamba in Celsius that is causing a lot of the stunting and damage people see. Dicamba is similar to and does the same thing as 2,4-D, but it is extremely active through the soil.


----------



## gatormac2112 (Sep 14, 2017)

@Greendoc

The MSM label say some chlorosis or stunting might happen with Bermuda and Zoysia. Is that anything to worry about?

I have Celsius and Certainty, I could just hit it with that mix

EDIT: Just saw above post about Celsius stunting....I haven't noticed that when I used it before.


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Not on a well fertilized lawn. However, MSM is brutal on a starved Zoysia lawn. Turns it really yellow. The stunting from Celsius is especially when it is spot sprayed at high rates. I as well, have not seen yellowing or stunting from Celsius. I boom spray mine at the low to medium rate on a well fertilized lawn only.


----------



## kur1j (Jul 2, 2017)

When you are mixing products like Sedgehammer + Quicksilver or Certainty + Quicksilver to kill sedges, Tenacity + Sencor to kill the zoysia in bermuda or mixing any products together, is there a recommended rate you cut back on each? For example would you do only the lowest rate of each or even less of each? Or just like everything else in this world, it just "depends"?


----------



## Greendoc (Mar 24, 2018)

Everything except the Tenacity+Sencor is at full label rate. No cutting of rates. The Tenacity+Sencor mix is a special case. Full rate of Sencor applied solo is 10 oz per acre. Full rate of Tenacity is 8 oz. The rates arrived at through a lot of trials is 4 oz and 4 oz. If one or the other is more than that, it may kill the Bermuda.


----------



## kur1j (Jul 2, 2017)

@Greendoc thanks! That is so counterintuitive to me. Very interesting though.


----------

