# Patagonian Duck's Arden 15 Southern AZ Lawn Journal



## Cartman2490 (10 mo ago)

*Watch my grass grow LIVE* 



WHAT COULD BE MORE EXCITING???! :lol:

*Before (Taken 2022-01-01):*



*After (Taken 2022-06-01)(Planted 2022-04-04):*








No herbicide. No pesticide. No Plant Growth Regulators (PGR). No Sod. I have heard recommendations from people (LCN) online to go the sod route for warm season grasses, and that seed is too much work. My results were a lot of work, but very fun. Huge thanks to these two journals: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=17253 && https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=14938&start=20

I have been keeping most of my notes in a Google Doc online, since I can edit easily from my phone when outside with the lawn.

Anyways, I'll try and include everything from that in a more readable way here. I tried to line up the photos with the textual updates! There's a youtube link to my playlist in here somewhere too, about 15 minutes worth of grass tips and lessons learned from this whole thing. Watch it for even more info, or don't 

First is the prep work:

Only survey work for now since unfortunately I broke my leg (fibula fracture) on new year's and moving in to my first home the next day was quite tough. I had family to help out but I really wanted to get started on the grass. Once I graduated from the cast to the boot I was able to do the tilling and digging, laying irrigation pipe and connecting and testing fitting... and other prep activities while still recovering in the velcro boot. I healed up fine 
I think the above picture was taken in early January


I was overjoyed to see this when touring the house. Many houses here in Southern AZ have irrigation set up, but the houses in our price range has not done maintenance on them and let them fail. All I was looking for was that SOME infrastructure was in place, and believe it or not it still worked, but I have significant water hammer. This has since been replaced with the Rachio 16 zone controller and WOW is it amazing. I am a software engineer and I approve of that app. You're really paying for the app and support, and it shines! Leagues better than other apps that I have tried like the orbit one. Just buy a rachio already, very easy to set up and ONLY ONE issue in 8 months now which was a wifi disconnect (it still works during that time, just can't be changed from the app).













*And More prep work...*







These pipes were seen in the initial walk through of the house when putting in an offer... it was promising that the irrigation did exist in certain places but obviously needed a lot of work






This picture above is the result of a days work... digging through bakes AZ ground and hammering through limescale caliche layers. This area sees the sun for 10+ hours per day and was NOT fun to dig a trench for a line. Consequently, this is the area that the bermuda grass does the best. In hindsight, I should have added a tap in the center for an additional optional sprinkler for added coverage. ADD MORE TAPS THAN YOU NEED AND YOU CAN ALWAYS PLUG THEM.








Holy smokes this irrigation pit was horrifying. Cockroaches and grasshoppers and giant Arizona centipedes made refuge in here and leeched the moisture from small leaks in the junctions. A healthy bulging black widow spun a web on the underside of the lid and fed to his heart's content off the growing insect population below.



04/04 planted arden 15
Check out my youtube playlist which I started making around this time to catalogue the yard progress...
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLtrck36I5DC3p-bFvoChzwzAVhBb2BAtF

04/18 noticed first sprout. Mowed weeds and put down 3 pounds of stress blend and 3 pounds of milorganite per 1000 so about .5 pounds nitrogen per 1000





Here is that "purplish" color that many refer to that the grass seems to take on as it's just first growing. Possibly a phosphorus deficiency or something... just something to note that this may be regular with this type of grass and maybe specifically Arden15.





04/27 grass is growing well in back corner. Mowed and blowed weeds because a few (3-4) were about to flower. Adjusting watering to earlier by 1 hour (it is now bright as day at 6am). Cut watering in half (soak time doubled, half as many instances). Previous watering (every day until today) was as follows: Center and Back squares for 5 minutes each, every hour on the hour (55 minute soak time). This reduced watering from 12 instances per day @ 5 minutes per instance, down to 6 instances per day @ 5 minutes per instance


























04/28 applied 6 pounds fertilizer (3 milorganite + 3 stress blend, for a total of 0.5lbs nitrogen ) per 1000sqft since it has been 10 days since last application
05/04 1 month update, grass in corner growing well. Patchy but strong. More patchy yet strong in shaded corner. Intense Weed pressure, mowing down tall ones weekly. May try an herbicide soon. (Ortho ground clear)













This picture below is misleading because it is taken at such a low level, the grass is still definitely patchy but looks sweet from this angle!




05/09 reapplied fertilizer (3.5 milorganite and 3.5 stressblend per 1000sqft), slightly liberal because it's been 12 days
05/11 lowered mower with washers and putting wheels lower than intended… grass and weeds cut down to 1 inch now. No more flowering weeds
05/13 disabled afternoon watering (previously watering 1500 and 1700). Considering scaling back to watering only at 600, 700, 900, and 1100 or less. (Still watering at these and 1300 hours for 5 minutes only). Deeper watering may require less frequent, longer runtimes… going to see how it reacts first to stopping afternoon
05/13 stopped watering at 1300. Now grass gets watered for 5 minutes at 600, 700, 900, and 1100.
05/13 Mowed again with the low settings. up to now I am not recording every time I mow. It has been on average once every 2 days (mow, skip 2 days, mow again). I may start mowing every other day since frequent mowing definitely seems to be helping the grass and abating the weeds. Plus it looks nice. I noticed a patch of thin spindly grass I have not noticed before. I wonder if it is correlated to the lower mowing height I am now doing, has it shriveled this spot? See picture… it looks like a different species entirely.










05/16 mowed. Spot by wash is growing quickly with the 100degree days, may have to start mowing every other day. Still mowing at below lowest setting plus 3 washers (about 1" height?)




05/19 mowed





This is just a picture of how I dug the hole for the plastic golf hole. It is interesting to see the roots and stuff from the rhizomes (stolons above ground, rhizomes below)





05/20 leveled and cleaned wash wall. Fertilized.
Changing watering to water "deeper" as in longer during morning hours. Just going to double the watering time at the same times. So 10 minutes of watering at 600, 700, 900, and 1100. Originally, grass was nearly dry by 11am with very little puddling because grass is soaking it up in heavier areas.
Fertilized (per 1000sqft) 3lbs milorganite and 4lbs Arizona's best Four Seasons Lawn Food 21-7-14 
Total Nitrogen (N)
GUARANTEED ANALYSIS
11% Ammoniacal Nitrogen
10% Nitrate Nitrogen
Available Phosphate (P205)
Soluble Potash (K20)
Sulfur (S)
Derived from ammonium nitrate, monoammoniurpic.ahate.
diammonium phosphate and potassium sulfate
Tested watering 20 minutes right after fertilization. Minimal puddling. Changed timing again so 20 minutes of watering at 600, 700, 900, and 1100


05/21 mowed again. Seemed not as tall as it should be
05/23 mowed again. May cut water back but need to measure. Squishy ground until 2pm




05/25 mowed again. Cut water back to just 600, 700, 900 for 20 minutes each time (removed watering at 1100). Grass is still plenty wet at 1300 so cutting off 1100 watering time may have been a good idea.
05/27 cutting back excess water has helped I believe. I have stopped checking soil temperature map from GreenCastOnline since the 5-day average (for soil temperature, not air) is now 90degrees.Going to have probably 80 straight days of 100+ degrees. Going to order more Stress Blend https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2451/9069/products/STRESSBLEND_SunnilandYM_FertBag_Label_2048x2048.png?v=1649432945%5C 
and Four-Seasons Lawn Food https://www.gro-well.com/files/5114/7274/6200/Four-Seasons.gif Since the stress blend has many of the micronutrients that I need. Except I probably will wait on the Four-Seasons since my soil test says I am high in Phosphorus. Therefore the Flagship fertilizer https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2451/9069/products/FLAGSHIP_SunnilandYM_FertBag_Label_2048x2048.png?v=1649432773 seems good, except not as much potassium as what I'm seeing is offered by the other warm-season fertilizers. Could do Flagship with Prodiamine which has 7% potassium, which would bring the percentages up to 24-0-13 (24-0-6 flagship + 0-0-7 prodiamine) which could be a good balance and spoon-feed milorganite as necessary. Not sure if the lawn is quite ready for per-emergent yet? Think I'd rather buy a small concentrate bottle of prodiamine anyway. Stress Blend (7-0-20) + Flagship (24-0-6) yields (31-0-26) a good balance until my Phosphorus comes back down a bit. Flagship lacks magnesium, so if I combine and apply I need to remember I'm effectively cutting magnesium application in half. Nitrogen can be further boosted with Milorganite which is 6% Nitrogen, yielding (37-0-26) which is closer to the ratio given by Arizona's best Four Seasons Lawn Food (3-1-2) vs my ratio blend of 2.8-0-2 which eliminates phosphorus. It may be worth taking another soil sample too… 
05/31 forgot to mow
06/01 mowed, it was tall but not too tall that I had to adjust mower. More grass spreading out is helping keep areas from puddling and also pushing water out to previously dry areas.


06/03 mowed
06/05 mowed
06/07 mowed




06/09 mowed


06/10 I'm leaving for 8 days… we will see how it looks when I get back
06/19 mowed at second highest height
06/20 mowed at second lowest height
06/21 mowed at second lowest height


06/22 mowed at second lowest height
06/23 Did not mow. Thunderstorms and rain. Noticed that I have damaged the grass by mowing too low in one spot. The grass grew much faster in the sun, so when I adjusted and started mowing the shady region, it was too low for parts of the sunny area. Oops. The grass has yellowed but not brittle and may be alive. I believe it was due to the first cut since coming back.
06/24 more rain


06/25 more rain
06/26 Mowed. Grass is pretty much fine. Lots of traffic yesterday playing on grass while damp.
06/27 Changed up watering schedule so that I am only watering every other day now at 05:00 for 30 minutes at a time. Also turned on "Rain skip" and "saturation skip" to see what those will do. Still learning the Rachio.
07/07 missed a lot of updates but mowing every other day at least on second lowest setting for about 1.5" of grass. Fertilized full bag of milorganite across entire lawn.


07/20 measured using tuna can test finally: I've got a Rachio smart controller that waters and soaks for 50 minutes a day. Looks like I'm putting down 0.5" every day now at 0430 which dries completely by 1400


http://imgur.com/kH2QYQs


Here's where the sprinklers are 'JUST' failing to hit the center of the sunny area. This is why I should have put an extra tap in the center of that line when I first dug the trench and laid the pipe.


Update 07/23 put down arden15 grass seed and fairway formula seeding success peat moss substitute in bare areas that were shrinking (surrounding rhizomes and stolons helping to fill in) but gave it some help anyways. Also ripped out center bush and seating area to expand lawn and make easier to mow and edge. Curious to see how fast it germinates and grows now in mid summer season (finally moving away from 45 days consistent highs of 105 and lows of 80.


07/26 Current soil moisture from greencastonline says 20.6% 24-hour average (double from 10% one week ago) because we have had daily monsoon rains for two weeks now. Soil temperature from same site says 24-hour average 88.1degrees fahrenheit (down from 98 degrees average recorded on 07/23)


07/26 again we are watering every hour on the hour for 5 minutes on each zone 10 times per day to keep seeds constantly wet. Changed the deep soak at 04:30 to every other day now
07/28 plan on mowing today. I may be wrong but I think I see small grass sprouts from the seeding 5 days ago. 1 or 2 for every 100 seeds I put down
07/29 grass definitely growing. Mowing rest of yard at lowest notch setting on mower. Not mowing freshly planted grass.


07/30 mowed again at lowest notch. Grass appears yellower.




08/01 mowing every day now at lowest notch
08/04 took a week but grass is greening up again at this lower height

*afterthoughts and ramblings and notes from my google doc that helped me along the journey*
I believe I was successful for a few reasons.


Choosing correct type of grass and quality seed for my area as determined by climate
Planned irrigation for minimal overlap and even spread of misted water across entire lawn area.
Planted once soil temperatures were consistently above 50 at night by using the greencast website.
Used fairway formula seeding success peat moss substitute to ensure good seed-soil contact and keep from drying out.
Kept seed from drying out by watering briefly, numerous times per day for 35 days.
Fertilized minimally but often to keep steady stream of nitrogen flowing into lawn to promote steady growth.
After established growth, watered 'deep' (0.5 inches) per watering frequently to stay above evapotranspiration rates as identified by the NOAA and other weather service websites.
Mowing most days of the week (4-5 days) on a regular schedule at low mowing heights (1-2")


One thing I'd do differently is not give a damn about the weeds. I pulled so many damn weeds and I dont think it was necessary, if the grass has the right nutrients it will outcompete the weeds. you gotta mow low (low depending on your specific type of grass. For bermuda that's 1"-1.5") and mow often though to keep the weeds from flowering. Grass will survive (and thrive with) the frequent mowing but weeds will not. It comes to my attention now that spurge and crabgrass will not be affected by the low mow strategy

Second thing is I would get a soil sample analyzed by a local extension office. They can be contacted through government or university websites and are cheaper and more accurate (apparently) than online kits



beginners guide

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https://www.reddit.com/r/lawncare/comments/fb1gjj

Tucson soil type: https://www.desertmuseum.org/books/nhsd_desert_soils.php
essentially clay and rock: Clay Loam
https://soilseries.sc.egov.usda.gov/OSD_Docs/T/TUCSON.html

Rachio irrigation turf smart cycle info
https://support.rachio.com/en_us/smart-cycle-and-manual-cycle-and-soak-features-r1_FwL1Kw

Soil Maps:
Temperature: https://www.greencastonline.com/tools/soil-temperature
Moisture: https://www.greencastonline.com/tools/soil-moisture
Daily or Weekly Evaporation: https://www.weather.gov/ict/Evapotranspiration 
Rainfall: https://water.weather.gov/precip/

Seed:
Arden 15 Bermuda Grass Seed: https://www.seedworldusa.com/products/arden-15-bermuda-grass-seed-certified
Needs soil temperature above 65 degrees (see map)
Needs to be planted after last frost (50 degree nights according to John from Mesquite Valley Growers
https://weather.com/weather/monthly/l/b46017d5f8b97b67ab3fb7e5de21591d59aa60d94e3f7945e3e09445597f5ba3a726a76c738f75852c907e6b40c992e5
Dave from Ace: "Last frost has occurred once you observe an unwatered mesquite tree budding. Go to the desert and find one with buds, you're good to plant"

Arden 15 Seed Facts: 
Coated or Raw: Coated
Fertilizer: 16-04-08 Slow Release - 250 lbs. per acre
Ideal pH: 5.5 - 7.0
Life Cycle: Perennial
Overseeding Rate: 1 lb. per 1,000 sq.ft.
Seeding Depth: 1/8 - 1/4 inch
Seeding Rate: 2 lbs. per 1,000 sq.ft
When to plant: Spring & Summer

Instructions:
For new turf applications, apply 1 - 2 lbs per 1,000 sq. ft. Arden 15 Bermuda should be planted when soil temperatures are consistently above 65 degrees F. 
For best results, take a soil sample and follow fertility recommendations prior to planting. 
Care must be taken not to cover the seed with too much soil; no more than 1/4 in. covering over the seed is advised. 
After seeding, soil moisture in the root zone must be maintained for about 1 to 2 weeks. 
Germination may begin within 7 to 10 days. 
After the new turf is established, less frequent, deep watering is desirable.
Recommended mowing height is 3/16 to 1 in. with no more than 1/3 of the leaf blade removed per mowing. 
Full coverage may be attained with proper management in 4 to 6 weeks. This is a dense hybrid. 
Winter overseeding may be completed for year-round green color, but is generally not recommended on turf less than 6 months old.
Does best when maintained at or below 2", but 3" is fine
Growing season is June-August

Champion GQ Perennial Rye Grass Seed: https://www.seedworldusa.com/products/champion-gq-perennial-ryegrass-seed
Instructions:
Seeding Rates
New turf: 10-12 pounds per 1000 square feet (400-500 pounds per acre).
Overseeding: 6-8 pounds per 1000 square feet (250-350 pounds per acre).
Establishment
Germination: 6-12 days with proper irrigation.
First mowing: Approximately 21 days.
First limited use: Approximately 30 days.
Adaptability & Care
Climatic Conditions: All (except high altitude)
Soils: Sandy to heavy clay. Not good for extremely wet or shaded areas.
pH range: 5.5 to 8.5
Fertilization: 2 to 4 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1000 sq ft per year. Use a balanced fertilizer with a 3:1:2 ratio of NPK with sulphur.
Mowing height: 1/2 to 1 1/4 inches in cool seasons, 1 1/2 to 2 inches in warm seasons.

Fertilizers:




Includes Calculations for Nitrogen and how to put down fertilizer correctly
Slow release fertilizers are coated (coated urea)
Explanation of 3 in 1 products: 



Fertilizer should be used every 5 weeks regularly
Safe bet fertilizer for Bermuda is a 2:1 ratio Nitrogen to Potassium
Combo pack from LCN: https://thelawncarenut.com/collections/liquid-fertilizer/products/bio-stimulant#

(24-0-6) Flagship YardMastery 
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2451/9069/products/FLAGSHIP_SunnilandYM_FertBag_Label_2048x2048.png?v=1649432773
Noticeably missing Magnesium, whereas the stress blend has it.
Nearly identical to Stress Blend which has same nutrients in same quantities (+ magnesium)
(7-0-20) Stress Blend Yard Mastery 7-0-20 Summer Lawn and Turf Stress Granular Fertilizer Blend
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2451/9069/products/STRESSBLEND_SunnilandYM_FertBag_Label_2048x2048.png?v=1649432945
Recommended by MySoil
Plan to fertilize with this after lawn is established (2 months)
Scott's Starter with Weed Preventer (Rebranded as Scott's Triple Action Seeding)
Recommended by Reddit as Starter Fertilizer
Plan to fertilize with this immediately after seeding
Never actually used this… couldn't find exactly what I wanted

(21-7-14) Fertilizer: 21-7-14 turf royale (actual product from Mesquite Valley Growers is: 21-7-14 Arizona's Best Four Seasons Lawn Food)
https://www.gro-well.com/files/5114/7274/6200/Four-Seasons.gif
https://www.gro-well.com/lawn-garden-21/arizonas-best/four-seasons-lawn-food/
Recommended by John from Mesquite Valley Growers
Plan to fertilize with this after the Yard Mastery 7-0-20 mix has run out and I have "stabilized" the soil contents according to MySoil readings
This is the "Nitrogen based" fertilizer that should be used frequently (½ pound per 1000sq ft every 1-2 weeks) to encourage the new lawn to spread
To Calculate Nitrogen pounds per 1000sq ft:
21-7-14 means:
21% nitrogen
7% Phosphorus
14% Potassium
Figure out how many pounds of fertilizer go on 1000 sq ft
Bag Weight 20 lbs
Bag Coverage: 4000
Pounds per 1000 = 20/4
Pounds per 1000sqft = 5lbs
Nitrogen per 1000sqft = 5lbs * 21% nitrogen
Nitrogen per 1000sqft = 1.05 pounds
This means that I'll be applying 1 pound of nitrogen for ever 5 lbs of fertilizer I use
To hit the target of ½ pound of Nitrogen per 1000sqft every 1-2 weeks
2.5 pounds of THIS fertilizer per 1000sqft every 10 days

Instructions From Bag:
1. Apply only to actively growing turf. 
2. Apply when foliage is dry and soil is moist. 
3. Apply only with well maintained and properly calibrated equipment for even distribution and optimum results. 
4. Apply irrigation immediately after applying fertilizer for best results. 
Broadcast 0.5 - 0.7 pounds nitrogen per 1000 square feet (2.38 - 3.33 pounds of Turf Royale per 1000 square feet). 
Apply irrigation to dissolve fertilizer and incorporate into turfgrass rooting zone.

(6-0-0) Milorganite slow release Nitrogen
https://www.milorganite.com/using-milorganite/products
Recommended by Reddit as general fertilizer for Lawn
Not sure if/when to use this
Clones follow this pattern on label
6-4-0 ratio roughly
Derived from bio-solids
Guaranteed Analysis (label):
6.0% Total Nitrogen (N) = *4% Water Insoluble (slow-release) N + 2% Water Soluble N
2.5% Total Iron (Fe)
4.0% Available Phosphate (P2O5)
1.2% Available Calcium (Ca)
Nutrients derived from Biosolids
*4% Slowly Available Nitrogen derived from Biosolids.

GreenView Fairway Formula Seeding Success Biodegradable Mulch with Fertilizer
Mulch and starter fertilizer.
Should be used as only fertilizer for first two weeks
Works like peat moss does to hold moisture consistently for the grass seed to use
Very light fertilizer that will not overwhelm the grass
Cover fresh laid seed immediately
Light covering, not touching each other
Wet by hand immediately. Keep moist for 30 days
Pellets will soak and flatten and appear like topsoil when receiving enough water.
Still need to check irrigation wet depth
Should be "wet" not damp. Lots of water

Weeding + Herbicides:
Pre-Emergent

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https://www.reddit.com/r/lawncare/comments/ffva4y
Bermuda Triangle: https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=13
Wood Mulch:

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https://www.reddit.com/r/landscaping/comments/92cr4p
Want 3-4" thick to prevent weeds from taking root
Mulching for weeds (not using fabric)

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https://www.reddit.com/r/landscaping/comments/92cr4p
Aggressive ground cover plants will shut out weeds
https://www.south-florida-plant-guide.com/groundcover-plants.html

Mowing




How to choose a mower: 



Twice per week (never remove more than ⅓ the grass blade)
Adjust frequency to do this
Height of growing season could be every 3 days
Cool season (Perennial Rye Grass PRG) mowing height 3-4" (or top height setting if in doubt)
Warm Season (Bermuda) mowing height mowing height 1-2"
Mower:
$300+ probably $400
Self propelled RWD
Necessary Options: Bag, Mulch, Side Discharge
160cc minimum +- 5cc
21-22" mower
Mulch clippings 
Mowers:

Brand
Name
Cost
Notes
Link
Toro
60v recycler
$600
21466
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/lawn-mowers/push-mowers/7013897
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Toro-Recycler-22-in-SmartStow-60-Volt-Max-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-Battery-Walk-Behind-Mower-6-0-Ah-Battery-Charger-Included-21466/314426587#overlay

Toro
Used Gas Recycler
$100
Rear wheel drive (broken), foldable,

Watering




https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=k3mZ9l8MqTI
Video has Hydratain example: 



Hydratain can be used for lawns plants to retain more water and absorb moisture from surroundings
Better to water too much to compensate for areas that don't receive quite enough water.
After first signs of growth (1-2 days after germination) continue watering at least twice per day (FOR 1 HOUR) for 35 days
Keep watering even if it rains
After 35 days, cut back watering to 2-3 times per week
Adjust pressure: https://www.highridgewater.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/How-to-Adjust-a-Water-Pressure-Regulator.pdf
7624 Water: taken from tucson water readings website (found local regular samples somewhere taken by city online, public resource, hard to find!)
7624 Water:

Overview




Level the soil
Shovels and rakes
Keep slight grade to encourage water to run off
Environment (depends on seed)
Air temp at night over 45
Seed to soil contact
Water daily, keep WET
Materials:
Seed
10-20 pounds per 1000sqft using KBG and PRG
Less needed for Bermuda
Organic Nutrients
Introduce into soil
15 pounds milorganite per 1000sqft
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/lawn-care/lawn-fertilizers/70555?qtyRequested=1
Peat Moss, Soil covering like Mulch, Patch master
Something to keep seed/water from running off slope
½ thick maximum, spread by hand
Watering twice per day, morning and evening, 1 hour each time. For at least 30 days
Then back off to once every 2-3 days
Keep off grass for 30 days
No germination for at least 2 weeks

Pest Control:





Other Plant Info:
Citrus plant guide: https://www.south-florida-plant-guide.com/grow-an-orange-tree.html
https://www.gardenmyths.com/anvil-bypass-secateurs-pruners/

Notes

Buy seed online:
https://www.barusa.com/professional-turf/buy-now/kentucky-bluegrass/tbpro
https://www.toddvalleyfarms.com/store.html#seed
https://www.idealturf.com/store
https://www.barusa.com/professional-turf/turf-products/bermudagrass
https://www.johnstonseed.com/product/monaco-bermudagrass/

https://sonorangardensinc.com/how-to-take-care-of-your-lawn-in-tucson-arizona/

Tucson Local Seed supplier?
https://sonorangardensinc.com/ 520-579-9411

Resources for Lawn Care/Growing Grass
https://aroundtheyard.com/the-news/71-bermuda-bible.html

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https://www.reddit.com/r/lawncare/comments/bf4o2f/_/elbeg2w


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https://www.reddit.com/r/lawncare/comments/ggfjvq
https://www.reddit.com/r/lawncare/comments/lsxls4/kbg_seed_blends_for_spring/

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https://www.reddit.com/r/gardening/comments/3aqyze
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=1651
Phoenix guy with Arden 15 https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=17253

Youtube Guides




Peatmoss layer on top. 
Sanctuary micronutrient blend. 
Herbicide
Water 3 times daily for 3-5 minutes (wetter climate)

LawnForum Guides:
https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=17253

John from Mesquite Valley Growers Nursery:
Don't overseed with rye until one year has passed (skip first winter)

Fertilizer: 21-7-14 turf royale
all seasons same product
year round once established (2 months or more from seed)

need to re-level ground and mix starting fertilizer in there (from mysoil order)

organic matter into soil (compost)
Acme Sand And Gravel nearby sells this for cheap. They also have flagstone for path

established means "looks like a lawn"

3 times a day watering very briefly (always moist at first) 1-2minutes all is necessary

2-3 weeks later wateronce per day
(encourage roots to search deeper for water)
otherwise will burn when very hot out

6 week mark: once every other day

cut as often as possible even if only .01 inches to encourage multiplying

do not plant until 50 degrees consistently overnight (could be another month)

Root Growth Rates
http://www.treedictionary.com/DICT2003/hardtoget/lyr/index.html

Roundup (Glyphosate)
https://www.houzz.com/discussions/1475081/spraying-roundup-around-fruit-trees


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