# SOIL TEST RESULTS/RECOMMENDATIONS



## Mondeh6 (Jul 4, 2018)

Hi all, 
I am really new to understanding how to use fert.
I received my test back and understand the other requirements surrounding lime for Ph.
Basically I have 2 questions.


Can I use any 0-0-60 fert, or it has to say muriate of potash.

Also recommended is 32-3-10 which appears to be a seasonal product and is hard to find. what alternatives would accomplish the same goal as the 32-3-10. So far I know i'll need over 3lbs of 32-3-10 per 1K ft2. Also, I know that the ratio of the recommended product is 10-1-3, what I don't know is product that are comparable based on the 10-1-3 ratio. The 32-3-10 beg is listed on various sites for $66.00, given the size of my yard it will be better to find something in smaller quantity.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Was this test done through the University of Delaware?
Is this an existing lawn or are you going to establish a new lawn (seed or sod)?


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## Mondeh6 (Jul 4, 2018)

@Ridgerunner , Yes, establish a new lawn from seed.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

Seeding, this Spring? Their recommendations for lime and potassium are for incorporation (tilling it in with a rototiller) before planting. Are you planning on doing that? If not you will want to adjust for surface application. I would avoid applying significant quantities of Aglime prior to seeding as it can detrimentally affect nutrient availability to the seedlings. You could probably get away with applying 9-18 lbs/M of a fast acting lime without adverse affects if applied 8 weeks or so prior to seeding.
Sulfate of Potash is preferable to MOP. SOP will provide the nutrient sulfate and has a lower salt index (less likely to interfere with seedling water uptake). Whether you use SOP or MOP, if it is not being incorporated and is being surface applied, I would suggest you apply no more than 2lbs/M within a month to six weeks before seeding.
32-3-10 would be a nice maintenance fertilizer for you at your P levels. However, it's not likely to be available to you in Md due to your current P levels and due to laws prohibiting the sale of P without meeting certain conditions. An exception is usually lawn establishment. I would suggest you just use any starter fertilizer available at the big box at time of seeding. Half bag rate (about 0.5 lb of N/m) at seeding would be plenty. Once the seed has germinated and been mowed once, you can just use any N fertilzer at half a pound rate every 2-3 weeks to promote growth and spreading. Check with the folks on the Warm Season sub-forum for advice on best practices for Bermuda establishment.
What lab did the test?
EDIT: Yes 0-0-60 will be MOP. Muriate of Potash/Potassium chloride will also be listed in the analysis (label) on the bag as the source of potassium.


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## Mondeh6 (Jul 4, 2018)

@Ridgerunner, Lab# 1075.
1. Yes, I plan on seeding late April or early May 2019 depending on weather, soil might still be wet from spring rain.
2. Yes, my goal is to rototill, leaning toward using mantis tiller, plan is to apply lime and potash to surface then work it into the soil. Guidance from the lab suggest that no more than 50lbs lime for established lawn in one application, not sure why they're telling me to use 75lbs for 1K sqft, could it be "established is after a year or so"
3. DoMyOwn have a pro fert 32-3-8 which I covet much they said check back about 3 weeks, so far they haven't said they cant ship, in worse case scenario i'll go with a lower percentage N fert as you outlined. https://www.domyown.com/pennington-3238-25-uflexx-fe-turf-fertilizer-p-8743.html
Also, thanks for pointing out that the recommended fert is a good maintenance product, given the 1lb of N every month requirement post seeding.

Thanks you..


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

> 1. Yes, I plan on seeding late April or early May 2019 depending on weather, soil might still be wet from spring rain.


I'm a cool season person. Cool season turf seed needs temperatures at about 50F to germinate. It's my understanding that the temp requirements for warm season turf is 10-15 degrees higher? This is where asking for some input from the warm season guys may help you achieve better chances of success.



> 2. Yes, my goal is to rototill, leaning toward using mantis tiller, plan is to apply lime and potash to surface then work it into the soil. Guidance from the lab suggest that no more than 50lbs lime for established lawn in one application, not sure why they're telling me to use 75lbs for 1K sqft, could it be "established is after a year or so"


The lime recommendation of 75 lbs/M is a calculation based on the amount of acidity that the lab measured that is present in your soil and the amount of carbonate in the lime that will be needed to neutralize enough of the acidity to raise your soil pH in the top 6" of soil to approximately pH 6.5. On an established lawn, by necessity, any amendment to the soil, like lime gets applied to the surface. It will dramatically change pH of top layer of soil before it has had time (a year or more) to leach down and affect the whole top 6" of soil. This can adversly affect the availability of certain plant nutrients that can be seen by the yellowing of the grass, Yellow grass= reduced photosynthesis = reduced turf ability to combat/resist stresses like disease. Consequently, to reduce the amount of stress that might be induced, it is recommended that no more than 50 lbs/M (many turf specialists recommend a limit of 25#) of lime be applied at one time in a 6 month period. If the lime is incorporated into the soil, because it is being mixed into and spread evenly though-out the top 6" of soil, much higher quantities can be applied with less incidense of issues, Incorporation will also make for a quicker homogeneous change in pH in the whole top 6". Keep in mind, tilling can be a nightmare, particularly if a rear tine tiller is not employed and even then leveling and rolling should considered.



> 3. DoMyOwn have a pro fert 32-3-8 which I covet much they said check back about 3 weeks, so far they haven't said they cant ship, in worse case scenario i'll go with a lower percentage N fert as you outlined. https://www.domyown.com/pennington-3238 ... -8743.html
> Also, thanks for pointing out that the recommended fert is a good maintenance product, given the 1lb of N every month requirement post seeding.


It appears that the soil test lab is recommending the 32-3-10 as a "starter" fertilizer at seed down. A starter is presumed to make NPK nutrients more available to the newly germinated turf to promote growth. The lab then just recommends the use of a straight N fertilizer thereafter. Whether you use a "complete" fertilizer like the 32-3-10 or a straight N is pretty much a personal preference issue. You can either just apply N through the season and then adjust P and K in one shot before the next season or use a "complete" fertilizer for continual maintenance. That is, with every N feeding, replacing (spoon feeding) some of the P and K that the turf is taking up form the soil.
Good luck with your project.


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## Ridgerunner (May 16, 2017)

FYI: I'm going to assume that UofDel. performed the test. You can convert their FIV values to Mehlich 3 ppm using the conversion formulas in table 5.2 in this link:
https://cdn.extension.udel.edu/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/02042319/Appendix-5.pdf
Then you can use the info in my soil test thread to monitor and select the ppm levels of nutrients you want to maintain. Suggest Phosphorous ppm level be kept around 50 and Potassium ppm levels at > than 110, with 175-225 desirable.


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