# Milorgonite and synthetic fertilizers



## Suaverc118

Does anyone have a good lawn fertilizer schedule that uses both of these during the growing season? Example: Monthly fertilizer and in between milorgonite. Is that a safe practice to laying down fertilizer every 2 weeks?
Thanks


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## Ridgerunner

A good "rule of thumb" is to follow seasonal turf use rates for NP&K, if you don't mind doing a little math.


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## Ecks from Tex

Suaverc118 said:


> Does anyone have a good lawn fertilizer schedule that uses both of these during the growing season? Example: Monthly fertilizer and in between milorgonite. Is that a safe practice to laying down fertilizer every 2 weeks?
> Thanks


It's a safe practice to lay fertilizer down every day as far as the lawn goes; environmentally that's a separate issue. It's NOT a safe practice to throw salts down every two weeks.

Applying Milorganite 1-2 times per month isn't going to hurt anything, but Milo does not dissolve with water it is actually composted into the soil due to heat/friction. So early in the growing season you will probably have a bunch of milo just sitting on the ground -- the grass will use up the organic nitrogen and iron, but the rest of its nutrients and organic nitrogen will slow release.

Apply one high N synthetic in the growing season - here's my schedule that I posted https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2555


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## Mightyquinn

Ecks from Tex said:


> Suaverc118 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a good lawn fertilizer schedule that uses both of these during the growing season? Example: Monthly fertilizer and in between milorgonite. Is that a safe practice to laying down fertilizer every 2 weeks?
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Apply one high N synthetic in the growing season - here's my schedule that I posted https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2555
Click to expand...

He has bermuda so It's going to require more than one high N application per year if he wants a thick and green lawn. You should try to shoot for .5-1 lb of Nitrogen per K per month for bermuda.


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## Ecks from Tex

Mightyquinn said:


> Ecks from Tex said:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Suaverc118 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone have a good lawn fertilizer schedule that uses both of these during the growing season? Example: Monthly fertilizer and in between milorgonite. Is that a safe practice to laying down fertilizer every 2 weeks?
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> Apply one high N synthetic in the growing season - here's my schedule that I posted https://thelawnforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2555
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> He has bermuda so It's going to require more than one high N application per year if he wants a thick and green lawn. You should try to shoot for .5-1 lb of Nitrogen per K per month for bermuda.
Click to expand...

I've never been lucky enough to have Bermuda unfortunately, so I'm admittedly a little weak on its maintenance, but one application of 24-0-4 fert and four Milo apps isn't enough nitrogen to grow thick Bermuda?


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## Mightyquinn

I don't think applying Milo at bag rate will do it for bermuda especially during the peak Summer growing season and depending on how big your lawn is it can become cost prohibitive as down in the South here we don't get the same deals like they do in the North that are closer to the source.


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## Ecks from Tex

Interesting. Thanks for the info. I've always wanted Bermuda but just couldn't justify the cost of changing.


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## Tellycoleman

During my reno last year with seeded bermuda I applied 1 pound of nitrogen every 2 weeks. I was mowing the lawn like crazy. If your trying to get your bermuda to spread then thats the way to go. Probably not the best idea for a maintenance program but i plan on either 0.5 every 2 weeks or a little heavier in the thin areas this year.
I am not sold on the milorganite band wagon.
There are many extended release fertilizers with higher percentages of Nitrogen that wont require so much money or bags of fert.


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## mrigney

So if you're not going to use Milo, does it matter what brand you grab, or is NPK all that really matters? I've used Milo in the last, but now that I'm taking things more seriously (thatnks to everybody here), I'm interested in exploring other options. Are there non Milo brands that are the best?


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## Suaverc118

Thanks for all the info fellas. I have some very bare spots with stolons that are driving me crazy and I feel like it may need more fertilizer. Also in these pictures, trying to figure out if I need to put more top soil over that area for these stolons.


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## Greendoc

mrigney said:


> So if you're not going to use Milo, does it matter what brand you grab, or is NPK all that really matters? I've used Milo in the last, but now that I'm taking things more seriously (thatnks to everybody here), I'm interested in exploring other options. Are there non Milo brands that are the best?


Unless your have soil that is too acid, Ammonium Sulfate applied at 2.5-5 lb per 1000 sq ft per month is as good as it gets. As for NPK, I am partial to applying that as 20-20-20. Especially during grow it. If not applied as a grow in fertilizer, it works well applied at 1 lb per 1000 sq ft with another lb of AS. If you want or need to apply organic matter for purposes of soil correction/amendment I use one of the liquid humic. In fact, I grow grass without Milorganite or slow release nitrogen. My program is regular applications of AS, 20-20-20, micronutrients, and Humic.


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## Greendoc

Suaverc118 said:


> Thanks for all the info fellas. I have some very bare spots with stolons that are driving me crazy and I feel like it may need more fertilizer. Also in these pictures, trying to figure out if I need to put more top soil over that area for these stolons.


Feed it and mow low. How much and what kind of fertilizers have you used to date? That looks like common Bermuda.


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## Colonel K0rn

Greendoc said:


> Suaverc118 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the info fellas. I have some very bare spots with stolons that are driving me crazy and I feel like it may need more fertilizer. Also in these pictures, trying to figure out if I need to put more top soil over that area for these stolons.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Feed it and mow low. How much and what kind of fertilizers have you used to date? That looks like common Bermuda.
Click to expand...

@Suaverc118 listen to @Greendoc. He knows his stuff. Also, don't go with topsoil, use sand. Do a search on his sand capping posts.


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## Greendoc

@Colonel K0rn Sand wins. I do not know if he is going to be mowing reel low. Mowing reel low actually helps Bermuda. Topdressing a lawn that is supposed to be reel low with topsoil makes a mess and causes more trouble than it is worth. If this is a rotary mowed lawn, then getting it granite countertop flat becomes very important to prevent biting and scalping.


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## Suaverc118

I have a rotary and the lowest setting is 1" which would scalp some of my yard, so the next level which I is is 1.5". I would like to mow at 1.25" if I use a hack which I believe is a washer.
I do plan on leveling with sand in the next week or 2 so I can have more eveness when mowing.


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## Suaverc118

Oh, I have Bermuda Tiff BTW


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## Greendoc

Rotary mowed Bermuda does not work very well unless it is mowed at 2" or higher. The rotating blade starts to grab the runners and yank them. That is why a reel is preferred. I know about putting washers between the rotary blade and the engine shaft to lower a rotary mower beyond factory limits. That can work on cool season grasses that do not have runners. However, if one wants to mow lower, and with Bermuda, that is highly desirable to do so, a reel of some kind is better.


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## mrigney

@Greendoc You say your typical regime for bermuda is "regular applications of AS, 20-20-20, and humic acid." Do you typically apply 20-20-20 throughout the growing season or only at grow-in? Humic acid monthly? Or just a spring and fall application of humic and 20-20-20 during grow-in? What other micronutrients do you apply? (apologies to all for taking this thread off topic)


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## SCGrassMan

I personally use a variety on my Zoysia. Milorganite in the spring and fall at a minimum, and Scott's fertilizer with iron once or twice, and then whatever else when it "looks like it could use it".


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## Suaverc118

Greendoc said:


> Rotary mowed Bermuda does not work very well unless it is mowed at 2" or higher. The rotating blade starts to grab the runners and yank them. That is why a reel is preferred. I know about putting washers between the rotary blade and the engine shaft to lower a rotary mower beyond factory limits. That can work on cool season grasses that do not have runners. However, if one wants to mow lower, and with Bermuda, that is highly desirable to do so, a reel of some kind is better.


Wow, I dont think I was ever told that. I thought 1 reel mower was for 1" and lower... And no one's mentioned it pulls stolen at that height and have been wondering why I have stolens in certain areas, but wasn't sure in the past of it was due to soil issues and etc. I cut at 1.5". So I need to let it grow to 2" if I continue with the rotary mower? Also, I plan on leveling in the next couple of weeks.


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## FATC1TY

I mix bag it myself.

Milorganite sometimes when I don't think I need much of anything.

I'm kind of prone to tossing out iron and 39-0-0 myself.

Cheap enough, goes a long way, and I generally do half rate for it and do it twice a month. Keeps me mowing my rear end off with PGR I assume, but definitely makes the grass creep and fill in.

13 bucks for 40 pounds and I've got 4500sq ft or so of grass to keep up. Last a little while!!


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## Greendoc

mrigney said:


> @Greendoc You say your typical regime for bermuda is "regular applications of AS, 20-20-20, and humic acid." Do you typically apply 20-20-20 throughout the growing season or only at grow-in? Humic acid monthly? Or just a spring and fall application of humic and 20-20-20 during grow-in? What other micronutrients do you apply? (apologies to all for taking this thread off topic)


The 20-20-20 is used throughout the year. I have soil that locks up P and is low K. I have more confidence directing a program after seeing the results of a soil test. My prograrm is based on what is needed for reel low grass growing on poor alkaline soil.

When I say micronutrients, I mean more than just Iron. I am careful of emphaising elements applied in isolation with the intent of creating a speciic effect. It is not healthy for the grass and things can go wrong. My background is in horticulture and agronomy. Rather than become a lab rat, I chose the rough world of lawn care.


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## Greendoc

That is correct. Either join the reel low club or raise the rotary so you are minimizing damage to the stolons. I do see a place for rotary mowers in scalping and renovation of an area. They are great tools for removing material from the ground. The spinning blade and vacuum like action is good for taking away stolons and thatch after scalping.


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## Suaverc118

Oh, you're breaking my heart maaaan. Hahaha!


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## Greendoc

Telling
It
Like
It
Is 
:thumbup:


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## Cory

I used milo once, never again. Can't stand the smell of it, It freaking STINKS! I'd rather smell hog farm manure than milo. And it cost to much in my opinion. I buy fertilizer from a farm supply store, 16-4-8, 10-10-10, 34-0-0, all under $15 for 50lbs bags. Can put a pound of N on my entire lot with 34-0-0 for $20, would cost about $140 for the same amount of milo. I know they say milo has other qualities but nice grass is grown all over the world without it.


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## Greendoc

Milorganite supposedly has organically bound micronutrients and adds organic matter. You know what, for the same cost and no smell, I can spray on humic acid and chelated micronutrients. As for supplying NPK, the complete fertilizers from the farm supply warehouses are as inexpensive as one can get. I will say this till I am dead, if mowing reel low, granules of coated urea or any other material that does not completely dissolve in the rain or irrigation are no good. Your mower will pick up the granules and put everything into your grass catcher. If you are not using a grass catcher, the fertilizer advertising a 45-60 day release rate is now instant release once the mower blades get to the granules.


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## raldridge2315

Greendoc said:


> As for supplying NPK, the complete fertilizers from the farm supply warehouses are as inexpensive as one can get.


Exactly! It's where I shop. I'm retired (and consequently, I don't have time for a job) so I have time to apply light feedings every couple of weeks and don't have to worry about the more expensive time release stuff. I don't think the grass cares where the nitrogen comes from.


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## Suaverc118

Mowed my lawn today and applied some fertilizer. Certain areas have really thicken up where as others haven't, so hopefully I applied it much better this time. Here are some photos. Oh and mowed at 1.5" as well. The top areas of my lawn are struggling as well as around that tree, there are some loose stolons. I'm wondering if the area up top if I should lay down some sod. IDK.


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## Colonel K0rn




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## Mightyquinn

Greendoc said:


> I will say this till I am dead, if mowing reel low, granules of coated urea or any other material that does not completely dissolve in the rain or irrigation are no good. Your mower will pick up the granules and put everything into your grass catcher. If you are not using a grass catcher, the fertilizer advertising a 45-60 day release rate is now instant release once the mower blades get to the granules.


+1 I too have found this to be true! It's something to take into consideration when deciding to go REEL LOW :thumbup:


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## Greendoc

Hence your desire to go liquid. I figured that out years ago. Only granules that work are straight 21-0-0, straight 46-0-0, 0-0-60, 0-0-50 and then greens grade. I found out that greens grade is $60 a bag and that bag only covers 5000 sq ft if used to apply 1 lb of N. My 20-20-20 and FEature program with supplemental 21-0-0 has worked well for what it costs.


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## gardencityboy

@Greendoc I recently got my soil test and it looked like it needs K and P. While I was researching for 20-20-20 fertilizer I found out that there are blue granules and need to be applied by dissolving them in water and applied through a back pack sprayer.
Are you using the 20-20-20 as a liquid fertilizer? If yes what is the application rate for 1K?


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## Greendoc

Correct. I do an all liquid program I figured out for warm season grass. I apply 1 lb of the 20-20-20 per 1000 sq ft. 1 gallon of spray volume per 1000 sq ft at minimum. This is to be done at 14 day intervals supplying a little under 1/2 lb of N per month. BTW, this is all of the N I need. If I need more to get growth and color, soil chemistry(salts, pH) is looked at. Reason why is that this method of application efficiently delivers the nutrients. Much of what is applied is absorbed through leaves, the rest moves to the roots.


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## SCGrassMan

Here's this weekends homework!


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## SCGrassMan

Greendoc said:


> Correct. I do an all liquid program I figured out for warm season grass. I apply 1 lb of the 20-20-20 per 1000 sq ft. 1 gallon of spray volume per 1000 sq ft at minimum. This is to be done at 14 day intervals supplying a little under 1/2 lb of N per month. BTW, this is all of the N I need. If I need more to get growth and color, soil chemistry(salts, pH) is looked at. Reason why is that this method of application efficiently delivers the nutrients. Much of what is applied is absorbed through leaves, the rest moves to the roots.


What are you doing for liquid fertilizers?


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## Greendoc

20-20-20 is a greenhouse grade water soluble. The nursery and golf guys in my state are very familiar with this product. I add spray grade 21-0-0 if I want more N.


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## SCGrassMan

I mean where can I get liquid fert products. Do you have brands or anything you recommend?


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## Greendoc

I go to whoever supplies golf courses, nurseries, and greenhouses. In my state, I have Simplot and Agrium/CPS. You might find products at Harrells and Site One.


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## viva_oldtrafford

Greendoc said:


> I go to whoever supplies golf courses, nurseries, and greenhouses. In my state, I have Simplot and Agrium/CPS. You might find products at Harrells and Site One.


Harrell's will not sell to homeowners. Phenomenal products though!


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## Jbird95

Greendoc said:


> 20-20-20 is a greenhouse grade water soluble. The nursery and golf guys in my state are very familiar with this product. I add spray grade 21-0-0 if I want more N.


@Greendoc 
Moving forward my plan includes 8oz of 20-20-20 and 2oz of feature per K bi-weekly. I've seen you mention you occasionally ad N with AS. I have 7.8 PH so I will as well. I know this is a tough question but what rate and frequency do you supplement your program with 21-0-0? Do you simply use eyeball test? Thank you


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