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Jacobsen PGM restore

12K views 38 replies 8 participants last post by  Ngilbe36 
#1 ·
I picked up a Jacobsen PGM 22 on Craigslist.



The Craigslist PGM had good spark, 90psi compression but is blowing smoke. First I checked the valve gaps and they were within tolerance. My first thought was that the oil was over filled. I changed the oil and kept it under filled and then cleaned the valve cover and valves of excess oil. The motor still smoked after a minute of running. My second thought is that the rings are junk and the bore might need work. This motor will be thrown to the side for another winter project.
Once I freed up the reel I found that the reel was also junk.



The other's PGM had good spark, 98psi compression and the valves were with tolerance and only has a light dusting of oil under the valve cover. This was looking good. This engine did not smoke and sounded fine running at idle and full throttle. This motor got new oil, spark plug and a new filter.
However, the reel looks close to no life left. I still need to measure the OD to confirm.





In the end, I have one good motor and two machines so I decided to open up both machines and compare the parts inside.

I first started with the Craigslist PGM.





What I found was not the 140W gear oil I was expecting, but tons of grease.
This wasn't a bad thing and might have saved the gears and chains from excess damage from heat if it was used this was.

The first bearing I removed on the drum shaft had a dead spot in it but spun nice except for that one spot and the oil seal is toast.



 
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#5 ·
I had some time last night to look at the donated mower. It came with travel wheels but the wheel hub bearings didn't look to good.





You can see on the sleeves there is wear heat markings. This is a good sign of bad bearings. The sleeves and roll pins are also rusted tight on the shaft. I'll put some heat to them this weekend and dive in deeper. I did move the drum bearing housing and it didn't look promising for the bearings as water started to pour out.





 
#6 ·
@MasterMech I took your suggestion and swapped mufflers. It started up smoking but quickly disappeared. You might be right. The muffler could be oil soaked and just needs to burn off or in my case just swap it out with a new one. The Honda GX series motors parts are fairly cheap and the motor is easy to work on since there are so many copy cat motors on the market.

 
#9 ·
I disassembled the Craigslist PGM more tonight for about an hour. Pulled the motor, handles, clutch box and more.





Found left over back lapping grease.



I normally used LA Awesome yellow concentrated cleaner watered down to remove grease. But I found this version at the dollar store a few months back and it works really well at breaking up grease and cleaning up my smoked up stainless grill. My guess it's the same formula watered down and in an easy spray bottle. Well worth the dollar.









 
#11 ·
I spent a small amount of time again on the mower the other day. I removed the side plate and found that the reel roller bearing must have seen water as the grease was brown and the outer race ring is burnt up and has burs. This will need to be replaced since angle bearings are done in sets.

Since I don't have a race puller or a tig welder it looks like I'll have to get the old paint stripper heat gun out and see if the I can get the outer race to fall out.
Here is a great video.














 
#12 ·
A quick up date.

The Outer race is removed. Heat from a heat gun always does the trick for easy removal without damaging the casting or seat area.

How to do it? Heat the surrounding area up to about 130 degrees and with a little tap out the bearing or race will come. A lot of people say 230 but that's really hot and at that temp the part should just fall out. Please remember with any cast aluminum part you should never try to drive or punch out a bearing as tolerances are very tight and you will damage the seating area. This is the opposite with cast steel parts, a puller or punch will work just fine as long as you don't need to reuse the bearings.




 
#15 ·
A small update. All the hardware has been degreased and going through rust removal now. I found soaking the parts in 10:1 LA Awesome overnight makes the grease just wash away in warm water. Then the hardware is put into evapo-rust for about 12 hours.
I did find some hardware that needs to be replaced.

Once this is complete I need decide if I will nickel plate all the hardware.







 
#16 ·
Well I'm back at this now. Holiday breaks go by way to fast with kids and it feels like you never get anything done.

I did some sanding and prepping for the primer and finish coats. What are your thoughts of the colors below.

I feel like the final color looks more orange then the redish orange of the original color. I feel like I picked the wrong Persian Orange. I know Jacobsen has two versions but I stayed with what R&R was selling, thinking it would be the right orange.







 
#17 ·
Hi, I purchased an old PGM 22. The mower works great, but I'm now trying to run through the recommended inspection and lubrication routines recommended in the tech manual that I downloaded for this Jacobsen model.
My problem is I can't find any detailed information on how to check and change the oil level for the Chain Case (item #11, section 8.12 in the tech manual). The manual recommends SAE EP-140 Oil - Drain and Refill yearly.
I dont know where or how to check the oil, and how to drain and fill with new oil.
Can anyone provide or point me to source of information to accomplish the above?
I'd be very appreciative. Below provide pic of my pgm 22.
 
#18 ·
Hi, I purchased an old PGM 22. The mower works great, but I'm now trying to run through the recommended inspection and lubrication routines recommended in the tech manual that I downloaded for this Jacobsen model.
My problem is I can't find any detailed information on how to check and change the oil level for the Chain Case (item #11, section 8.12 in the tech manual). The manual recommends SAE EP-140 Oil - Drain and Refill yearly.
I dont know where or how to check the oil, and how to drain and fill with new oil.
Can anyone provide or point me to source of information to accomplish the above?
I'd be very appreciative. Below provide pic of my pgm 22.
 
#19 ·
GadgetVictim said:
Hi, I purchased an old PGM 22. The mower works great, but I'm now trying to run through the recommended inspection and lubrication routines recommended in the tech manual that I downloaded for this Jacobsen model.
My problem is I can't find any detailed information on how to check and change the oil level for the Chain Case (item #11, section 8.12 in the tech manual). The manual recommends SAE EP-140 Oil - Drain and Refill yearly.
I dont know where or how to check the oil, and how to drain and fill with new oil.
Can anyone provide or point me to source of information to accomplish the above?
I'd be very appreciative. Below provide pic of my pgm 22.
I'm not much immediate help with the PGM, due to lack of experience. But..... what's up with the GreensKing in the back? Curious minds want to know!
 
#20 ·
Yes, that's a Greenking 518 in the back. I use the GreensKing for the finishing cut on my putting green. The PGM 22 is adjusted for higher cut height (=>3/16"). I also, own a Mclane 10 blade and Tru cut P20. I use the mower for different cuttong application on my lawn (skirts n de-thatching).
I try to do my own maintenance and backlapping on all my mower.
However, the PGM 22 has me perplexed wrt check/changing the chain case oil. The reason I so concerned is that, in the process of changing the bedknife, I removed the engine, and turned the mower assembly on its left side (looking from back). After returning the mower upright, I noticed a puddle of oil had leaked out of the reel side cover (where lapping bolt attaches). So, I wanted to check the level of the oil in the chain case housing. I couldn't determine how to do that.
 
#21 ·
Yes, that's a Greenking 518 in the back. I use the GreensKing for the finishing cut on my putting green. The PGM 22 is adjusted for higher cut height (=>3/16"). I also, own a Mclane 10 blade and Tru cut P20. I use the mower for different cuttong application on my lawn (skirts n de-thatching).
I try to do my own maintenance and backlapping on all my mower.
However, the PGM 22 has me perplexed wrt check/changing the chain case oil. The reason I so concerned is that, in the process of changing the bedknife, I removed the engine, and turned the mower assembly on its left side (looking from back). After returning the mower upright, I noticed a puddle of oil had leaked out of the reel side cover (where lapping bolt attaches). So, I wanted to check the level of the oil in the chain case housing. I couldn't determine how to do that.
Just what to add that, wrt to the Greensking 518, other then changing the engine and backlapping reel, I've not done any maintenance or lub on this machine.
 
#25 ·
@MasterTech, Thanks for taking time to help.
I'm not by my machine, but I believe the the green arrow points to one of the bolt that holds the bedknife on its horizontal axis. Theres another one on the other side.
The blue arrow is a plug. That's part of my confusion. It looks like a drain plug. Also, it looks very frozen, so I'm afraid of unscrewing and breaking without determining how I'd put the oil back in if I take it off.
 
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