What Brand Motor Oil Do you use in your Lawn Mower?
1. When it asks for SAE 30 wt.
or
2. When it asks for 10W30 wt.
1. When it asks for SAE 30 wt.
or
2. When it asks for 10W30 wt.
What Brand Motor Oil do you use in your Lawn Mower?
2 reading
Sam23
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Been used Rotella 5w40 full synthetic in all my stuff for a while now. The viscosity range should work in any type of power equipment out there. It is very good oil at a good price and you can buy it almost anywhere. Synthetic is definitely not necessary but it will offer more protection if things happen to get a little ugly.
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25 Posts
I use mobile one syn and K and N filters on my Kawasaki engines and the kolher oil and filter on the kolher
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377 Posts
I just sold my 30+ year old Jacobsen Super Bagger 21" that ran fine on conventional 10w-30 (B&S Quantum engine). It was still a 1 to 2 pull start when I sold it, but compression was starting to drop.
I expect my new Toro to last me until I don't need a mower anymore, using conventional motor oil. I just make sure it has the recommended API grade and call it good enough. Synthetics last longer, but without filtration, I prefer to change the oil at the normal recommended intervals. I just picked up a large jug of Penzoil 10w-30 that should last me close to 10 years.
The best oil on the planet will never make up for failing to service the engine at the correct intervals, so I see no reason to spend the extra money on a lawn mower.
In my snowblower on the otherhand, I always use 0w-30 synthetic, for ease of starting and good lubrication at -40 temps. And yes, the blower is 30+ years old too. Actually, I prefer 0w-30 synthetic in my car during the winter.... just in case I have to leave it parked for an extended period in the cold without shelter or having the block heater plugged in.
I expect my new Toro to last me until I don't need a mower anymore, using conventional motor oil. I just make sure it has the recommended API grade and call it good enough. Synthetics last longer, but without filtration, I prefer to change the oil at the normal recommended intervals. I just picked up a large jug of Penzoil 10w-30 that should last me close to 10 years.
The best oil on the planet will never make up for failing to service the engine at the correct intervals, so I see no reason to spend the extra money on a lawn mower.
In my snowblower on the otherhand, I always use 0w-30 synthetic, for ease of starting and good lubrication at -40 temps. And yes, the blower is 30+ years old too. Actually, I prefer 0w-30 synthetic in my car during the winter.... just in case I have to leave it parked for an extended period in the cold without shelter or having the block heater plugged in.
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121 Posts
I use Quaker State and Super Tech Walmart brand mostly cause it's readily available. Haven't had any problems with either. I think just staying on top of oil changes is the important thing. Not the brand. Only dirty or old oil causes problems. Keep up with it and any will be fine.
Amsoil premium protection full synthetic 10w30 with zinc.
Runs in all my 4 stroke small engines. I like to have high levels of zinc to protect these small engines. The lack of zinc is what slowly zaps power from these engines.
I run this same oil in my 69 charger as well, so i buy it in cases
I do amsoil saber 2 stroke mix in all my 2 cycle engines because i can mix it to 100:1 ( i mix it to 80:1)
I do have mobil 1 5w30 full synthetic high mileage in my golf cart, but that will be switch to amsoil next time i make a purchase
Runs in all my 4 stroke small engines. I like to have high levels of zinc to protect these small engines. The lack of zinc is what slowly zaps power from these engines.
I run this same oil in my 69 charger as well, so i buy it in cases
I do amsoil saber 2 stroke mix in all my 2 cycle engines because i can mix it to 100:1 ( i mix it to 80:1)
I do have mobil 1 5w30 full synthetic high mileage in my golf cart, but that will be switch to amsoil next time i make a purchase
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377 Posts
So, just to clarify *my* position on small engines and oil. I use conventional oil in my lawnmower that only runs during warmer weather and synthetic in my snow blower for ease of start and good lubrication in our very cold winter weather.
As my province tends to have rather cool springs and falls, I go with a 10w-30 oil for better starting and lubrication in cooler weather. If I lived further south, I would be happy to use straight 30 weight detergent oil (which is not the same as "non-detergent machine oil used for lubricating machinery like lathes and milling machines).
Briggs and Stratton have weighed in on the subject with this:
The fact that you cannot extend the oil change interval on a small engine, which is due in part to the lack of an inline oil filter and that it does not use a pressurized lubrication system minimizes any advantage of the synthetic oils and clearly makes maintanence more costly for little benefit, in my opinion.
Either oil works just fine if you stick to the maintanance shedule. If you increase the time between oil changes because you are using a Synthetic oil, you are not getting the dirt and junk out of your engine (I'm not talking about gums and such, but rather dirt and dust that makes it past the air filter and metal particles from wear and tear) often enough.
Check the manual for your engine and ensure that what you use meets the specified grade and API designation.
Regards
Christian
As my province tends to have rather cool springs and falls, I go with a 10w-30 oil for better starting and lubrication in cooler weather. If I lived further south, I would be happy to use straight 30 weight detergent oil (which is not the same as "non-detergent machine oil used for lubricating machinery like lathes and milling machines).
Briggs and Stratton have weighed in on the subject with this:
And then:
I seem to recall reading somewhere (I *think* on Toro's website) where it was suggested that due to the size of such single cylinder mower motors and the like, there was little benefit to using synthetic oil, unlike a car engine where your oil is continually filtered and you can allow for a longer interval between oil changes to take better advantage of a synthetic oil.
The fact that you cannot extend the oil change interval on a small engine, which is due in part to the lack of an inline oil filter and that it does not use a pressurized lubrication system minimizes any advantage of the synthetic oils and clearly makes maintanence more costly for little benefit, in my opinion.
Either oil works just fine if you stick to the maintanance shedule. If you increase the time between oil changes because you are using a Synthetic oil, you are not getting the dirt and junk out of your engine (I'm not talking about gums and such, but rather dirt and dust that makes it past the air filter and metal particles from wear and tear) often enough.
Check the manual for your engine and ensure that what you use meets the specified grade and API designation.
Regards
Christian
21 - 26 of 26 Posts
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