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To fill or not to fill

1K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  Wabos42 
#1 ·
I had my yard sodded with Zenith Zoysia on 11 Mar. While they did a reasonable job they left tons of gaps between rows, some 3" or so. I have filled most of them with Soil3 from Super Sod or play sand. What with rains and irrigation the gaps are still pretty obvious at this point and for the most part are not growing in very fast.
Super Sod will deliver a large (1 yd) bag of either Soil3 or a Soil3 (30%)/sand (70%) mix. At the rate the gaps are filling in it may take many weeks to have a somewhat smooth looking lawn so my question is which of the products would be more suitable. I am not looking to actually level the yard at this point, just to get it looking somewhat even.

Thanks



 
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#4 ·
And therein lies the quandary <g>, I prefer to not have to wait a year if possible. Though a local nursery has good prices on sand and compost, their minimum delivery is 3 yards and I don't think I need more than one (5500' new sod). Is there some kind of formula I can use to determine a ball park figure? I think my preference for materials would be a mix of sand and soil as opposed to just sand.
 
#5 ·
After putting down more sand in some of the wider gaps and mowing I am still not real keen on how it looks 'up close'.
However, from where it was when we started to where it is now is pretty amazing so I guess I need to 'curb my enthusiasm' for a few weeks and let nature take its course.




Can someone tell me what this weed is? I have pulled up a bucket full of them in the last couple of days.
 
#7 ·
Bermuda_Newbie said:
Looks like spurge.
Yep! That is the dreaded spurge. It's my current struggle weed though this year is WAY better than last year. I believe the white milky sap is poisonous so wash your hands when your done pulling it.
 
#8 ·
Redtwin said:
Bermuda_Newbie said:
Looks like spurge.
Yep! That is the dreaded spurge. It's my current struggle weed though this year is WAY better than last year. I believe the white milky sap is poisonous so wash your hands when your done pulling it.
How are you treating it? A quick search indicates spot treating or pulling them by hand. I currently use a lawn service for treatments but they just started after the sod was laid so no pre-emergent has been used. One of my goals is to take care of the lawn 100%.
 
#10 ·
Redtwin said:
Last year I treated with Celsius. This season I have been able to keep up with hand pulling it. I'm hoping to save my annual max for any problems later in the summer.
Following is the 4/01 summary report from my lawn service, looks like they used Celsius which means I will try to control them by pulling. Not really a big deal at present.

We performed the following:

Early Spring Weed
Technician: Kyle

Today's application was a blanket pre and post emergent weed control & crabgrass preventative. If no rain, please water within 24 hrs for best results. (Pre emergent and fungicide is most effective when watered in)

Products Used:
0.28 Oz - Specticle Flo
12.00 Oz - SpeedZone Southern EW
36.00 Fluid Oz - Multigreen (Iron) (Regal)

Preventative Fungicide
Technician: Kyle

Today we applied your second preventative fungicide to eliminate any fungal pressure during our spring green-up.

Products Used:
1.20 Oz - Celsius WG
12.00 Oz - SpeedZone Southern EW
36.00 Oz - Savvi
 
#11 ·
I wound up applying most of a big bag of Soil3 from Supersod a couple of weeks ago. From the pics it doesn't look much different but up close it does.
Still a long way to go before it looks like a 'lawn', could use some rain for sure.


These images are where 3 very large oak trees were removed to start the project. I am wondering if I should get a soil sample of those spots to see if some sort of special treatment is needed? The 'yellow' is more obvious than the images show but the grass does not appear to be dying. The brownish area to the right of pic 1 is from a fungus problem that is on its way to being resolved.




 
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