Help Interpreting Soil Test

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artb
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Help Interpreting Soil Test

Post by artb » Mon Sep 09, 2019 1:22 pm

Hey guys just wondering if i could get some help interpreting this (as it is my first time doing a soil test) and where i should focus next year as far as improving soil quality.
Thanks in advance!


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Ridgerunner
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Re: Help Interpreting Soil Test

Post by Ridgerunner » Mon Sep 09, 2019 6:20 pm

Anything in particular that you wanted some help with?
Overall, decent numbers. most are sufficient or above and those that are low wouldn't be classified as deficient.
Phosphorous is high, almost excessive, but it is a high pH soil and that can make P less available, but the remedy isn't to add excessive amounts. The suggested approach is to spoon feed small amounts more often. What have you been applying with P? Suggest you add no more P until after another soil test in a year.
Suggest potassium levels are > 110 ppm. "Ideal" levels would be influenced by CEC. Problem is the M3 test inflates CEC, your actual CEC is probably closer to 14ish. Suggest you raise K levels above 110 to near 175- 200 ppm. Each pound of K2O (e.g. 2lbs of 0-0-50 or 1.7lbs of 0-0-60 /M) can raise K by 18 ppm. No rush to get the whole amount downin a short time. Apply no more than 1lb/M of K2O.

artb
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Re: Help Interpreting Soil Test

Post by artb » Tue Sep 10, 2019 9:19 am

Ridgerunner wrote:
Mon Sep 09, 2019 6:20 pm
Anything in particular that you wanted some help with?
Overall, decent numbers. most are sufficient or above and those that are low wouldn't be classified as deficient.
Phosphorous is high, almost excessive, but it is a high pH soil and that can make P less available, but the remedy isn't to add excessive amounts. The suggested approach is to spoon feed small amounts more often. What have you been applying with P? Suggest you add no more P until after another soil test in a year.
Suggest potassium levels are > 110 ppm. "Ideal" levels would be influenced by CEC. Problem is the M3 test inflates CEC, your actual CEC is probably closer to 14ish. Suggest you raise K levels above 110 to near 175- 200 ppm. Each pound of K2O (e.g. 2lbs of 0-0-50 or 1.7lbs of 0-0-60 /M) can raise K by 18 ppm. No rush to get the whole amount downin a short time. Apply no more than 1lb/M of K2O.
Thank you for response!
I just moved to the house this past spring and only put down a small amount of off the shelf fert, nothing high phosphorous though. Also kelp and humic acid. Just starting my fall nitrogen blitz as per the guide though. The lawn used to be cared for by a local company before i got the house so perhaps they applied something high phosphorous.
So in your suggestion, the "/M" is per month correct? You are suggesting i apply K at no more than 1lb per month?
What about my soil PH, should i try to bring it down towards the high 6s? From what ive read it seems that is the optimum area. Or should i just leave it where it is?
Thanks in advance @Ridgerunner

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g-man
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Re: Help Interpreting Soil Test

Post by g-man » Tue Sep 10, 2019 9:48 am

Arb:

I dont think there is much you could do to lower the pH. Not a bad soil at all. Avoid milorganite or biosolid due to the high phosphorus.
/M = /1000. It is a short hand version of ksqft based on the roman numeral for 1000.
Yes, no more than 1lb per ksqft per month that the grass is growing.

Ridgerunner
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Re: Help Interpreting Soil Test

Post by Ridgerunner » Tue Sep 10, 2019 10:00 am

Lol. Yes and no. /M means per thousand square feet, but I should have clarified that "no more than 1# K2O per month" too. That one pound per month isn't a "danger Will Robinson" thing, it's just a guideline, but it's common sense too. Why chance a possible imbalance when the turf isn't likely to use more than that amount? Wise to take it slow and easy when adjusting nutrients.
Regarding pH, you can try. Use ammonium sulfate for your N and apply 5# of elemental sulfur/M twice a year (say Spring and Fall) and retest next year. You may have a shot with the 7.2 lawn. Citric acid is also an option.

artb
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Re: Help Interpreting Soil Test

Post by artb » Wed Sep 11, 2019 4:26 am

g-man wrote:
Tue Sep 10, 2019 9:48 am
Arb:

I dont think there is much you could do to lower the pH. Not a bad soil at all. Avoid milorganite or biosolid due to the high phosphorus.
/M = /1000. It is a short hand version of ksqft based on the roman numeral for 1000.
Yes, no more than 1lb per ksqft per month that the grass is growing.
So there wouldnt be any benefit of slowly adding lime to the soil? We cant get milorganite up in Canada or any biosolids im pretty sure, just regular manure. (not sure if manure falls under biosolids)
Thank you for explanation
Ridgerunner wrote:
Tue Sep 10, 2019 10:00 am
Lol. Yes and no. /M means per thousand square feet, but I should have clarified that "no more than 1# K2O per month" too. That one pound per month isn't a "danger Will Robinson" thing, it's just a guideline, but it's common sense too. Why chance a possible imbalance when the turf isn't likely to use more than that amount? Wise to take it slow and easy when adjusting nutrients.
Regarding pH, you can try. Use ammonium sulfate for your N and apply 5# of elemental sulfur/M twice a year (say Spring and Fall) and retest next year. You may have a shot with the 7.2 lawn. Citric acid is also an option.
Yea that makes sense, no sense in overfeeding with what it doesnt need. Thanks for explaining that. Now i just gotta try and source this stuff locally.
Anyone from the GTA know where you can get K in bags?

Virginiagal
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Re: Help Interpreting Soil Test

Post by Virginiagal » Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:24 pm

Do not add lime. Lime will raise the pH.

artb
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Re: Help Interpreting Soil Test

Post by artb » Thu Sep 12, 2019 7:09 am

Virginiagal wrote:
Wed Sep 11, 2019 2:24 pm
Do not add lime. Lime will raise the pH.
Thank you! Actually ended up reading that this morning while looking for something else

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