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Powhatan's 2019 Lawn Journal

48K views 335 replies 13 participants last post by  Green 
#1 ·
2018 Journal

January
Third year establishing lawn. No irrigation. Low rate nitrogen feeding and soil improvement amendments will be the focus. I do not plan on applying fungicides this season.

  • Hand-pulled some weeds: orchard grass, bittercress, spurge, and marestail; and some poa trivialis from nearby woods ... fed all those to the composter. Edit: Hand-pulled one poa annua that started to show a seed head.

February

  • Hand-pulled some weeds: orchard grass and poa annua ... fed all those to the composter.
  • Late winter dormant overseed whole yard 8#/M - 75# DLF Pickseed KY-31 coated, 10# Scotts Southern Gold TTTF coated, and 10# Southern Belle TTTF. Soil temp 54F @ 2" depth.

March

  • Wild birds been eating some of the overseed so put down some reserve KY-31/TTTF seed. First week of Mar is forecasted 40sF/20sF, then the warm up begins 60s/40s with rain showers.
  • Hand-pulled weeds: several poa annua and some hairy bittercress starting to flower, fed those to the composter.
  • The forsythia and daffodils starting to bloom in lower part of county. Put down 1st preM app (mesotrione) 22# Scotts Starter Plus Weed Preventer & 50# alfalfa pellets. Soil temp 46F @ 2" depth, temp anticipated to be in 50s by middle next week along with higher air temps.
  • Soil temp warmed-up to 53F. The mesotrione preM is starting to light up poa annua, I hand-pulled several and fed them to the composter.
  • Received soil sample test results from Va Tech - pH 6.6, CEC 8.5, and OM 3.1%. P, Ca, and Mg at high amounts so no need to apply more, need nitrogen and K.
  • Starting to see grass seed germination. Soil temp 59F @ 2" depth.
  • Native plant roots starting to sprout.
  • Sprayed several orchard grass clumps with EcoLogic Weed & Grass Killer.

April

  • Hand-pulled weeds: poa annua and poa trivialis, bagged them and disposed in county waste removal. Lots more undesirable poa clumps to eradicate, I'll spray those with EcoLogic Weed & Grass Killer later in the week once it warms up again.
  • Sprayed numerous poa trivialis clumps with Dr. Earth Final Stop weed & grass killer, used whole gallon jug. Need another gallon jug, several more clumps to spray.
  • Sprayed a 2nd round of Dr. Earth Final Stop on the poa triv clumps.
  • Sprayed 1st round of Roundup Weed & Grass Killer (glyphosate) on several poa triv and poa annua clumps.
  • Sprayed Roundup For Northern Lawns Ready-to-Spray (includes quinclorac) to kill all weeds. Two weeks later, this RTS did not kill the poa triv.
  • Planted four Encore Azaleas and three Iris.
  • Mulch mowed, set HOC to 4". Put down 22# Andersons Humic DG, 50# LESCO 19-0-7 Dimension Crabgrass Preventer Fertilizer, and 30# EcoLogic Lawn & Yard Insect Killer.
  • Put down Scotts LawnSoil to raise low lawn spots.

May

  • Mulch mowed, lowered HOC to 3.75". My summer HOC will be either 3.5" or 3.25" to allow good canopy airflow and minimize humidity moisture surface retention.
  • Sprayed glyphosate on several poa trivialis clumps.
  • Mulch mowed, lowered HOC to 3.5". Put down 25# Carbon X, Scotts GrubEX (chlorantraniliprole) 1x10M, and 30# EcoLogic Lawn & Yard Insect Killer.
  • Spot sprayed non-selective Mirimichi Green Weed Control Concentrate @ 13% mix rate on several gravel driveway weeds and unwanted grass clumps.
  • Air temps in the 90sF for a few days in late May.
  • Mulched mowed, lowered HOC to 3.25" for more air flow. Put down Scotts Topsoil to raise low spots

June

  • Added border gravel and some more mulch in the Encore Azalea bed.
  • Spot sprayed Mirimichi Green Weed Control Concentrate @ 13% mix rate on orchard grass clumps and gravel driveway weeds.
  • Put down 40# EcoLogic Lawn & Yard Insect Killer.
  • Air temps staying in the 80sF. Receiving random seasonal afternoon/evening thundershowers.
  • Added more mulch to the Encore Azalea and native plant beds.
  • Started harvesting KY-31 seeds.
  • Hand-pulled various weeds from the gravel driveway and fed those to the composter.
  • Submitted mystery plant (poa triv suspected) samples to Virginia Tech lab. Identified as Rough Bluegrass (poa trivialis).
  • Summer is here, air temps climbing back up to the 90sF.
  • Hand-pulled a few nutsedge weeds from lawn edge in back yard. This same area has some rust disease on mostly PRG.

July

  • Hot and dry previous 3 weeks. Shadier parts of lawn KY-31 grass height up to 4" - 6" while sunnier parts TTTF lawn no growth and in early dormancy. Raised HOC from 3.25" to 3.50". Increased chance of thundershowers for next several days. Received 0.82" of rain after 3+ weeks of no rain.
  • Sprayed organic Garden Safe Brand Fungicide3 (70% neem oil) on rust disease areas.
  • Put down 40# EcoLogic Lawn & Yard Insect Killer.
  • Lowered HOC from 3.50" to 3.25". Noticed some brown patch spots in the side and backyard areas that receive morning and late afternoon shade, sprayed Garden Safe Brand Fungicide3.
  • Finished harvesting KY-31 seeds, about 1/2 pound collected.
  • Mid to late Jul air temps mid-90s to 103F with little to no rain. Jul 23 cold front came through and dropped air temps and rain.
  • Mulch mowed, Raised HOC to 3.50". Put down 50# Ringer 9-0-2 organic fertilizer.
  • Sprayed another round of organic Garden Safe Brand Fungicide3 (70% neem oil) on brown patch disease areas, much less infected blades, areas greening up.
  • Picked up about 5 GL bucket amount of soil obstruction rocks from the front and side yards, lots more to pick up.
  • Late July air temps back up to mid-90s to 100F.

August
  • The encore azaleas have yellowing leaves indicating iron deficiency. Put down 3/4 cup Pennington UltraGreen Azalea, Camellia & Rhododendron Plant Food 10-8-6 around each plant.
  • Hand-pulled several Annual Sedges. The majority are growing at the entrance and to the side of the gravel driveway. The spring applied preM protection layer probably wore off this late in summer.
  • Picked up several small soil obstruction rocks. Used the leaf rake to dethatch some dead grass areas.
  • Later half of month cooler temps almost Fall like.

September
  • Hot 97F with higher humidity. Lowered HOC to 3.25" due to high rain chance later in the week from hurricane Dorian.
  • Noticed young poa trivialis coming up. Sprayed glyphosate 50.2% concentrate mixed @ 3 tbs/1 gl on all young poa trivialis weeds in the spring kill poa t dead patch areas.
  • Grass grew to ~6", raised HOC to 4".
  • Some young poa trivialis I sprayed about two weeks ago either I missed or didn't die. Sprayed again glyphosate 50.2% concentrate mix @ 3 oz/gl on all young poa trivialis weeds in the spring kill poa t dead patch areas.
  • Lowered HOC to 3.50". Several days of recent and forcasted warm air temperatures and no rainfall, hooked up Orbital water timers and sprinklers, set watering schedule to damp irrigate at three different times during the day.
  • Grass height 5+", mulch mowed lower @ HOC 3". I only overseeded the back and side yards, I'll overseed the front next spring. Overseed - 40# Scotts coated TTTF Southern Gold, 6# Scotts coated TTTF/CRF Dense Shade, 3# DLF Pickseed coated KY-31, 2# Scotts coated PRG, and 1.5# Outsidepride coated White Clover. The back and side yards receive the most shade during day that's why I put down the creeping red fescue mix. The whole lawn I put down 80# alfalfa pellets and 28# Scotts Foundation Soil Improver.
  • 48 hours post seed down white clover germination and emergence.
  • 4 days post seed down grass germination and emergence.

October
  • 99.5F record high temperatures first few days of month, last significant rainfall >0.50" was on Aug 2.
  • Cooler seasonal temps arriving. Planted Southern Wax Myrtle trees to make a hedge row. Adjusted watering timers from daily 3 cycles 5 minutes to daily 2 cycles 8 minutes.
  • Hand-pulled various weeds. Poa trivialis coming up in random areas, obviously didn't kill enough this spring.
  • Mulch mowed whole yard grass & leaves using gas push mower with sharp blade, set deck to highest setting HOC 3.50". Sprayed N-Ext RGS & Air-8 "Compaction Cure" app. on front yard. Put down 25# Carbon X on whole yard.
  • Received very much welcomed steady rain.
  • New grass 3"+ and mature grass 7"+ height. Ground has seasonal dampness; pulled up water timers, hoses, and sprinklers. Mulch mowed grass & leaves with sharp blade and lowered HOC to 3.25". Sprayed N-Ext RGS & Air-8 "Compaction Cure" app. on back and side yards. Good steady rain forecasted tomorrow and later in the week.
  • Overseeded the last of my 10+ month old grass seed supply TF/TTTF/PRG on the whole yard. Soil temps on average will still be in the 50sF by end of next month. If the seed don't take, no biggie, it will be considered an organic material amendment.

November
  • Hand-pulled various weeds. Mulch mowed @ HOC 3.25".
  • Hand scattered ~100 each "Pink Swamp" butterfly milkweed seeds over three different garden areas. Put down ~.75#N/M Scotts fertilizer ~70% fast release nitrogen. Sprayed N-Ext RGS & Air-8 "Compaction Cure" app. over whole yard. That's the last of the lawn maintenance applications for the year.

December
  • Hand-pulled various weeds. Mulch mowed leaves.
 
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#2 ·
@Green I noticed this clump with what appears to have a prominent mid-vein with two parallel veins and a boat tip. I wonder if this is some TBG characteristic HBG we discussed last month. It's even got some new growth coming out of the collar.

Mid-vein with two dark parallel lines (veins).


Underside with mid-vein and what appears to be two dark parallel veins.
 
#3 ·
@Powhatan, I saw Bluegrass that looked like that a few months ago in my back lawn, and I honestly don't know why it looks like that. I had not planted HBG there. I wanted to photograph it but didn't ever get to. Glad you did.

I suppose it could be HBG or TBG. But could it also be a reaction to the cold or something else? Its weird... it almost looks like a cross between KBG and Tall Fescue, which I think is technically impossible. I would cut it out, pot it indoors and try to grow it. And then maybe submit it to an expert or turfgrass breeder. That's what I would do if it were me. Or at least submit the photos.

Speaking of crosses, a TF/PR cross is possible. They're doing it for forage already, and call it rye-fescue. I hope they start doing it for turf soon, too. That will be cool.

I've also seen some other cool stuff, like Tall Fescue that had alternating green and white veins. I think that must have been due to Tenacity a couple of months prior. But it's still not the typical reaction...usually the whole cross section whites if it's going to...and much sooner.

Also watch that KY-31 plant for rhizomes in the Spring. It looks like it's going to start spreading a bit due to how the deer trimmed it. I think leaving the lower leaves longer and cutting the upper ones encourages spreading in Tall Fescues.

48 degree soil means you're definitely going to still have sporadic growth until the ground cools a bit more. We are at 40 and lower 40s here, and it basically doesn't grow at all. Maybe a little on a warm sunny day after rain, but that's about it. It still spreads underground a little, though. We are soon to get colder...tomorrow.
 
#5 ·
No wind, good day to fell this dead oak tree. I'll put a cable high up attached to a come along to pull down combined with a hinge cut at the tree base, so hopefully the tree falls away from house. Neighbors will cut the trunk into fireplace length logs for their use.

 
#9 ·
Past few days been warm, so decided to send in a soil sample for testing. Soil temp 52F @ 2" depth. I took 2" depth cores from 10 random areas all around yard to make a composite submission sample. Last sample I submitted was back in 2017 which was the first year establishing the lawn.

The actual 52F soil temp was lower than the current GreenCast reading, but very close to the 24-hour average temp. In about three weeks I'll probably need to put down PreM. The Forsythia bloomed in my area at the end of February according to my 2018 notes. March typically will have one or two cold snaps before the April green-up.

Most of the soil sample areas look like this.



Box mailed to Virginia Tech soil lab. Paid for routine and organic matter tests.

 
#11 ·
Late winter dormant overseed whole yard 8#/M - 75# DLF Pickseed KY-31 coated, 10# Scotts Southern Gold TTTF coated, and 10# Southern Belle TTTF. Pushed the seed into the ground using the riding mower's tires while broadcasting the seed. I kept a little of each seed type just in case I missed an area when seed starts germinating. Forecasted air temp 50s/30s with light rain/snow showers for the next ten days. Last year's germination occured on Mar 1.

3rd year overseeding in late winter. My property is surrounded by trees and in early spring there are less leaves and this allows maximum sunlight down to the entire lawn throughout the day. I don't irrigate; the late winter snow melt and early spring rains provide the needed water.

2nd year using KY-31 as the majority lawn grass. Last year I noticed a lot of KY-31 held green growth color for longer going through summer than the other grass types I have.
 
#13 ·
The sun came out after a week of rain showers. Soil temps are still in the high 40s - 48F @ 2" depth. Weather forecast says another 10 days of 50s/30s. Probably mid-March I'll put down the 1st preM app (mesotrione). Then late April the 2nd preM app (dithiopyr).

Intresting, the GDD Tracker also shows mid-March getting to be the optimum time to put down preM. That confirms what I was guessing.



The moss is very active.

 
#15 ·
Ortho-Doc said:
Just spent an hour reading your lawn journals. Great job. Motivated to try some KY31!
Thanks

I admit KY-31 is not for the typical residential urban lawn, but it can be a good grass alternative for those that want to have a low maintenance turf.

If you buy KY-31 from Tractor Supply, buy the DLF green bag (coated) Oregon grown, as that has a lot less weed seeds than the white bags that are non-coated. Also, I've noticed the Missouri grown in either green or white bag usually has more weed seeds than the Oregon. I know there are online vendors that sell KY-31 but I don't know if what they sell has less weed seed amounts.
 
#16 ·
Sun is out and it's feeling like an early spring day, but the soil isn't quite at the right germinating temps yet. 2" depth - 43F in the shade and 47F in the sun. We've had plenty of rain showers, the ground is slightly moist, and the grass seeds are waiting for the right temps. I've seen several Canadian geese formations flying north. Raccoon, opossum, rabbit, deer, and wild birds have been visiting the yard looking for a snack.

I raked some leaves from the nearby woods and placed around the lawn's bordering trees. It's free and natural mulch, returning nutrients that the tree grew. No need to worry about potential contaminants from store bought mulch.
 
#19 ·
social port said:
Hey @Powhatan , I'm wondering what you are planning to do with that moss. Are you going to leave it alone?
@social port that's a good question, a real thinker :gum:

I've been adding lime to bring up the pH and OM to loosen the soil plus to hold more nutrients, and starting this season I plan to put down humic/carbon. I've trimmed up the bordering trees as much as I can, but I really don't want to cut any down unless they are dying.

Most of the moss right now is growing near the house where there's usually some kinda shade. For the short term, I do have a bag or two of Scotts Moss Control I can put down. For the long term, I plan to put down Radar Chewings Fine Fescue around the shadier sides of house and yard. The "shadier" is a moving target throughout the year: different sun angles, tree leaves, and house blocking. But mostly the shadier areas are N, NE, and E sides of house. If the FF doesn't work, I'll probably have to put down some type edging such as gravel.
 
#20 ·
I have some moss to deal with as well. I don't think that mine is from pH. Tennessee had the wettest winter since, I believe, 1988. That, combined with shade around the foundation of my house, has generated a lot of moss. That Scott's moss control might actually be the sensible response for my situation, so thanks for the idea.

I suppose that complications from shade is one drawback from having a property such as yours. I always feel like I've been in some kind of nature spa when I look at your pictures. Probably lowers my blood pressure, too.
 
#22 ·
Received soil sample test results from Va Tech lab - pH 6.6, CEC 8.5, and OM 3.1%. P, Ca, and Mg at high amounts so no need to apply more, need nitrogen and K.

I'm guessing with higher CEC and OM numbers my soil is holding on to nutrients longer than I thought a sandy loam soil tendency to leach quicker.

2019 results:

I had only applied about 75#/M of the 100#/M lime recommendation, so not sure why Ca and Mg are so high. Could be the various other lawn product's "filler" material. And the high P amount, I thought I was conservative applying that.



2017 results:

 
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