1028mountain wrote: ↑
Sun Oct 06, 2019 10:53 am
I got couple proposal for irrigation...$5500 for 6k sqft of yard plus all my flower beds, can anyone tell if that is a good deal? They will do just the lawn for $3500 or the lawn plus my largest flower bed for $4100. I got another one for the same job for $6500 but I had to find and pay a plumber to install the back flow line.
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9 1 Inch Control Valves
1000 FT 1 Inch PVC Irrigation Pipe
250 FT 18/13 Conductor Irrigation Control Wire
105 FT Irrigation Flex Pipe
3 Irrigation Valve Boxes
1 12 Zone Hunter PRO-C Automatic Controller
14 Hunter PGP Ultra Rotor Heads [Turf Areas]
0 MP Rotator Turf Heads
20 Hunter Pro Spray Heads
1 Back Flow Preventer
Just as an FYI for what the materials cost on a project like this... I created a quick quote @ SiteOne with your material list and i'm at $565, plus tax (minus the backflow preventer + irrigation controller). If you were to add those in, materials itself (including the incidentals: fittings, glue, etc) you come out to approx $1000-1500 tops. The rest is labor.
Now there's value in that labor and I don't mean to diminish that by any means, but don't let anyone make you feel like they're doing you any favors then. Demand what you pay for because if you won't they'll naturally find the easy way.
Now on to some more thoughts/details:
- determine your water flow & pressure BEFORE the pressure reducing valve, if at all possible. No use negotiating hard numbers if it all gets scrambled cause the water supply isn't as anticipated (usually meaning more/smaller zones to achieve the same coverage).
- shrubbery and plantings need half the water supply of turf, and if established may only need watering in the deepest droughts. The value proposition doesn't seem to be there ($2000 to supply underground irrigation to shrubs you may/may not need to water). It may depend on what kind of plantings you have. We have a heavily landscaped yard and I only irrigated the peonies and hydrangeas (plus the areas where my wife plants her annuals) and the rest I have the option to adjust my lawn heads to cover the established plants as needed. Just a thought.
- since it's only a few more cents per head, consider getting heads with check valves already installed - esp if you have a sloped yard. That eliminates water from continuing to flow out of the zone after a cycle ends (creates erosion plus runoff, etc) and just as importantly reduces the impact of water forcefully flowing back into the zone at the next cycle and shortening the life of the system.
- lastly, you mention your concern for having 4 heads in that small area - be mindful that more heads to create better/more efficient coverage is better that fewer heads that are inefficiently placed. Personally that's a sign of good design, imo, as it would be easier to 'get away' with 2 heads from an install perspective. More heads does not mean more water or more waste, etc. as 4 heads at 0.5 gal/hr spray the same water as 2 heads at 1 gal/hr.