Thanks for the first-hand experience, Mike! My generic 21" has 8" rear and 7" front wheels...so it's not considered a high wheel model. It's similar to the Troy-Bilt design. In fact, they're made in the same factory. It handles well.FlyMike wrote: ↑Wed Jan 24, 2018 6:55 pmI have a cheap Troy Built push mower, and recently my parents gave me their old Husqvarna self propelled mower when my dad decided to get a Toro Super Recycler. The Husqvarna has the bigger rear wheels and my Troy Built doesn't. I'm so used to just pushing a mower that I was pushing the new self propelled out just out of habit. I could tell the new mower was heavier but it seemed to push as easy or almost easier than my old push mower, obviously it is a lot easier to "push" when I use the self propel function. It turns very easily too, and I haven't noticed having to push down any more than usual when using it either.
My understanding of the bigger rear wheels is to make the mower push/drive over uneven or bumpy yards more smoothly so that it will give more of an even cut.
True...but I'm a fan of the higher quality and/or bigger engines, like the Honda 160cc and 190cc models, and the Briggs 190cc models (which my current mower has). Toro does offer some models with the Honda GCV-160, though...even their low-priced Lawn Boy branded push that's under $300 that I mentioned in the first post has the GCV-160.
Spoiler Alert: I have -a little- background in small engine repair.Green wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2018 6:58 pmTrue...but I'm a fan of the higher quality and/or bigger engines, like the Honda 160cc and 190cc models, and the Briggs 190cc models (which my current mower has). Toro does offer some models with the Honda GCV-160, though...even their low-priced Lawn Boy branded push that's under $300 that I mentioned in the first post has the GCV-160.
To me, the engine is the most important part of the mower. My Craftsman branded MTD with mid-range 190cc Briggs engine cuts a thick lawn unbelievably well if you stick to the 1/3-rule and don't go too fast. If I were buying a Toro, I'd want to make sure to get one with a Honda engine...or at least a higher-end Briggs and Stratton.
It's good to get the opinion of another of another engine guy. Good to hear that you don't feel there are any bad engines on current mowers. The other guy I talked with basically felt all of today's mid and low-grade engines were inferior to the previous generation. His justification? That the makers classified them as not needing oil changes...the implication somehow being that this must mean they're less reliable (not my opinion, btw...I'm just trying to learn what I can).MasterMech wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2018 9:01 pmSpoiler Alert: I have -a little- background in small engine repair.
It's pretty hard to find junk engine on a mower these days. (Kohler tried REAL hard with the single cylinder Courage line though.....) The GCV line is a fine running engine. However, once it stops running, throw it out and get something else. Other than minor repair to carburetor or ignition components, there is not much on it that was meant to be serviced. (I'm good with that.) They were never intended to compare quality wise to the GX series engines. My point being, I don't think the GCV series is any better/worse than another manufactuer's OHV engine with comparable displacement. I'd much rather focus on operator ergonomics, features, cut quality (first and foremost), mulching ability (with rotary mowers), and durability when approaching the $600 price point.
I've found this to be the case with so many products (cars, being one of the best examples). It is a bit maddening.
My lawn is very bumpy in places, and I've found that my pushmower does provide a very even cut.