I got lucky! The N-ext DIY Lawn YouTube Channel put out a soil analysis video (filmed in GA) and the results are pretty close to mine. I was able to easily apply that advice to mine.
NOTE TO SELF:
Soil pH is the first limiting factor, needs 26 pounds per thousand to buffer up. Dolomitic lime needed due to lower saturation of magnesium
Organic Matter is low for clay soil but I’m not sure; it would be a lot lower had I not brought in the topsoil. According to
SARE the goal should be around 6%.
CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity) At 5.5 this falls in the 1-10 sandy range. I’m sure this has to do with topsoil that was brought in. Most topsoil in the area has high sand content from riverbeds. “Low CEC soils hold fewer nutrients, and will likely be subject to leaching of mobile "anion" nutrients. These soils may benefit from split applications of several nutrients”. Thank you
@g-man for pointing this out.
Saturations theses levels will more than likely change after the lime application.
Phosphorus (P) is low but can be corrected quickly. Currently 15 parts per million but needs to be in 40 to 80 parts per million range.
Potassium (K) is ok, can be built on throughout the season.
Magnesium (Mg) is ok, can also be built on throughout the season.
Boran is low, can be fixed with 0-0-2, not much needed to correct. Iron may be blocking.
Copper (Cu) Iron (Fe) Manganese (Mn) & Zinc (Zn) are all at good levels.
**Ferric iron is what contributes to the red color in soil. Breaking down clay can free up iron (Air8).